Beauty Fashion March 2012 by Beauty Fashion Inc.

速

MARCH 2012

BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com

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THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR HER

MARCH 2012

BEAUTY FASHION

On the cover:

The Cloudbreak Group has partnered with the New York Yankees and Major League Baseball to develop, manufacture and distribute “New York Yankees” and “New York Yankees for Her,” a duo of prestige fragrances for men and women inspired by baseball’s most legendary franchise. “New York Yankees” fragrance captures a sporty and confident attitude, creating a timeless, masculine scent while “New York Yankees for Her” is an alluring and flirty scent that captures a more playful spirit. The fragrances, created by The Cloudbreak Group and Firmenich, will debut in April.

CounterIntelligence

THEBEAUTYBIZ 10

The Beauty Flash

Industry Ear

Backstage Beauty At New York Fashion Week Fall 2012

Total Beauty LIVE Launches

Estée Lauder’s Blogger Voice Emily Schuman Enhances Online Editorial Presence For Estée Lauder Brand

The Sweet Smell Of Success -Larissa Jensen And Swati Bhargava,The NPD Group

Rubin Discusses The Strengths And Future Of ULTA At CEW

VMV Hypoallergenics® Builds Base In US

Clarins Fragrance Group Plots Strategy For Aura By Swarovski

REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 37

South Florida Scene -Kay Renz

© 2012 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.

www.beautyfashion.com

AT-COUNTER

BEAUTY FASHION

MARCH 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 3

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MARCH 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 3

BEAUTY FASHION

FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS 38

Notes From Paris -Sarah Colton

THEPARTYSCENE 20

On The Avenue

A Beautiful Mind

THELATESTLAUNCHES 23

Notes From The Perfumers

Yankees Hit A Home Run With Two New Scents

First Look Glamour High

First Look Garden State

First Look Soft Glow

EVERYMONTH 8

Editorial

ComingUp

Calendar

EDiTORiAL This year’s Personal Care Products Council’s meeting marks my 30 th time attending. Way before I had children, way before I was married, way before I even contemplated either of the aforementioned, I had the pleasure of attending the council meeting. Of course, in those days, the social agenda was pretty much managed by the fragrance houses and getting the ‘big names’ at your event where everyone fought tooth and nail to outdo the other. Since then, things have either evolved or changed, however you wish to view it. The 2012 year had a decidedly sort of old-school, back-to-the-future feel to it. There was a nice buzz between the personal care products companies and the media, who have again found themselves in fashion and enjoying a nice resurgence. I think a lot of credit must be given to PCPC’s President and CEO, Lezlee Westine, and outgoing Chairman of the Board of Directors, Dan Brestle, for shepherding us through these lean years, and keeping a strong vigil over all those far-flung regulatory issues that lawyers love and—just as fast put you to sleep—put you out of business. I support the Board’s decision and applaud the election of Scott Beattie to Chairman. His can-do direct approach and strategic vision have taken him to the forefront of the cosmetic industry. I find his approach refreshing as well as compelling. I believe that 2012 will, with all due respect to the Mayans, be a strong year—both in the US and in international markets. Moreover, what continues to evolve and thrive at PCPC is a harbinger of good industry economics for the year ahead.

George Ledes President and CEO

MARCH 2012 /

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

Kiss And Makeup Lord & Taylor’s flagship store in New York City kicked off Lancôme’s national Kiss And Makeup, True Love Never Ends event to support its new Rouge In Love lipcolor line. Lancôme’s Makeup Artists showed customers how to transition their looks from a fresh morning to bolder afternoon and dramatic evening looks. Lord & Taylor’s Buyer, Lauren Levin, expressed that the store is really excited to be the first retailer in New York City to have this Lancôme event. “Lord & Taylor kicked off Kiss And Makeup, True Love Never Ends,” shared Lancôme’s Andrew Armstrong, Director of Marketing Special Events; “and our seven National Makeup Artists will tour retailers nationwide for this event.”

Ms. Czajkowski with Lord & Taylor’s Rosa Amadiz, Irena Kocharyan, Sade Hazard and Mimi Hernandez

Lancôme’s Joanna Czajkowski and Andrew Armstrong with Lord & Taylor’s Lauren Levin

Lancôme’s Makeup Artists at work

Mr. Armstrong (3rd l.) with Lord & Taylor’s Roseanne Payne, Louise Cush, Ilona Klosowska, Shannett Reid and Lola Husain

APRIL

HSN’s Mindy Grossman

Fairchild’s Gina Sanders

Beauty Ball honors Grossman and Sanders CEW’s Beauty Insider’s Choice product demo CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson and Jill Scalamandre

Mr. Armstrong (r.) joins Hudson’s Bay Company (The Bay, Lord & Taylor)’s Rosanna Zekic and Tina Occhino.

Ms. Levin and Hudson’s Bay Company (The Bay, Lord & Taylor)’s Melissa McCole

Mr. Armstrong (c.) joins Lancôme’s Manuel Villegas and Tarek Abbas.

“Lancôme is a brand that touches clients,” Mr. Armstrong noted. “The expertise of our National Makeup Artists produces another level of service.” He also believes this event “creates theatricality in-store along with the launch of the new Rouge In Love lipcolor.” Each client was photographed after her makeup application. BF MARCH 2012 /

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BEAUTY FASHION

PRESIDENT AND CEO

GEORGE LEDES

gledes@beautyfashion.com SENIOR RETAIL EDITOR

ADELAIDE P. FARAH

SENIOR PRODUCTS EDITOR

afarah@beautyfashion.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

ladams@beautyfashion.com

DEBRA DAVIS

ART DIRECTOR

ddavis@beautyfashion.com DIRECTORY EDITOR

LINDSEY E. ADAMS

JENNIFER DRUCKER

jdrucker@beautyfashion.com

HOWARD BIEGEL

PHOTOGRAPHER

hbiegel@beautyfashion.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR EMERITUS

ERIC MICHELSON

JOHN G. LEDES EXECUTIVE OFFICE 16 E. 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 Telephone: 212-840-8800 Fax: 212-840-7246

www.beautyfashion.com www.cosmeticworld.com

BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro

(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)

Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show

ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available * Phone numbers provided are for further information.

MARCH 14

CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

MARCH 17 - 18

The Makeup Show LA California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com

MARCH 22 MARCH 4 - 5

Professional Beauty London ExCel Centre • London (T) info@mrapr.com www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

MARCH 7

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Product Demonstration Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (IO) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

MARCH 9 - 11

Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com

MARCH 9

ICMAD Cosmoprof Bologna Reception Bologna, Italy (R) www.icmad.org

MARCH 9 - 12

Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com

MARCH 13

March of Dimes Beauty Ball Honoring HSN’s Mindy Grossman and Fairchild’s Gina Sanders Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 353-1143 jcarlo@marchofdimes.com

CIBS Spring Cocktail Party 230 Fifth Roof Top Garden • NYC 6:00 PM (R) www.cibsonline.com

MARCH 28 - 29

Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com

MARCH 29 - APRIL 1

Esxence, the Scent of Excellence Palazzo La Permanente • Milan (T)

APRIL 11

CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

APRIL 17

Luxe Pack-Pratt Art of Packaging Award Dinner University Club • NYC 6:30 PM (A) (B) (TA) (212) 925-2507 elaine@kxassociates.com

APRIL 26

ICMAD FDA Cosmetic Regulations Workshop NYC 9:00 AM (TA) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org Skin Cancer Foundation A Night the Stars Shine On Ristorante Barolo • NYC 6:30 PM (B) (R) (TA) (212) 725-5176 www.skincancer.org MARCH 2012 /

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APRIL 27

Fragrance Foundation FiFi Finalists Breakfast Mandarin Oriental • NYC 8:30 AM Members Only (A) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org

MAY 4

CIBS Ladies Day Spring Luncheon New York Hilton • NYC 11:30 AM (R) (IO) www.cibsonline.com

MAY 13 -14

The Makeup Show NYC Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com

MAY 16 - 17

Luxe Pack New York Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (212) 274-8508 www.luxepack.com

MAY 17 - 19

Organic Monitor Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Intercontinental New York Barclay • NYC (S) www.organicmonitor.com

MAY 17

Fashion Institute of Technology Master’s Program Capstone Presentations & Graduation Reception (Class of 2012) FIT • NYC 5:00 PM Open to the Public (A) (TA) RSVP: gradrsvp@fitnyc.edu Beauty Fashion FiFi Cocktail Party Doubles • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (IO)

MAY 18

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Luncheon Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (A) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

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CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673

Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com

France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Fax: 011-331-45885386

UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk

Australia Andrea Ferrari andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au

Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com

Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065

Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es

REGIONAL COLUMNISTS

Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com

Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net

Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700 bjasnoff@hotmail.com

Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com

Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com

Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157 normita.beautyfashion@gmail.com

Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187 bernie368@gmail.com

Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com

Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com

Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999 lynndludlam@aol.com

Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com

San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 raphaellabrescia@msn.com

South Florida Kay Renz kayrenzpr@aol.com

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

L’Oréal’s Board of Directors announced the end of Liliane Bettencourt’s tenure as Board Director. Following the proposal by the Appointments and Governance Committee, the Board of Directors has decided to proceed with the cooptation of Jean-Victor Meyers as Director. The Board of Directors has already decided to submit to the approval at the next Annual General Meeting of shareholders. Glamour and L’Oréal USA collaborated on a revolutionary shopping experie n c e w i t h S n a p Ta g enabled Mobile Taxi Shops during five days of Fashion Week. Taxi passengers in New York City found “Shop The Look” icons in a fleet of m-commerce-enabled taxi shops that allowed them to instantly buy Lancôme and Yves Saint Laurent beauty products while riding through Manhattan. These shopable taxis also offered free rides to Fashion Week hot spots. Shiseido Co., Ltd. has commenced sales of cosmetics products in the Republic of Tunisia—the first time for a Japanese cosmetics brand to enter the Tunisian market. The products, including its global brand SHISEIDO prestige skincare and makeup lines, will be sold at prestige cosmetics and perfumery retail outlets by concluding a distributor contract with Ulysse Négoce of the UTIC Group.

International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (IFF) appointed Francisco Fortanet to Senior Vice President, Operations. In this role, Mr. Fortanet will have broad-scale responsibilities for IFF’s global operations ranging from procurement through outbound logistics. Mr. Fortanet began his career at IFF in 1995. He most recently held the position of Vice President, Global Manufacturing Compounding. The 10th edition of LUXE PACK NEW YORK, the luxury packaging trade exhibition, will be held May 16-17 at The Altman Building and Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City. The 2012 exhibition will feature approximately 140 exhibitors bringing their selections of innovative packaging for all luxury sectors. Mane USA has hired Mireya Zendejas as the Vice President of Creative Fragrance Development, Fine Fragrance and Specialty, at its New York City Creative Studio. Shiseido Co., Ltd. will release its original fragrance SHISEIDO TOKYO SKY TREE PARFUM in collaboration with Tobu Tower Sky Tree Co., Ltd. to mark the completion of TOKYO SKY TREE on May 22. The fragrance, which will be launched on the same day, will be sold in a limited quantity of 634 units in connection with the tower’s height of 634 meters. Samantha Trenk has been named the new Public Relations Director at Lucky. Ms. Trenk joins Lucky from her previous position of Vice President/Corporate Director of Public Relations for American Media, Inc.

Duane Reade’s flagship store at 40 Wall Street in New York City took first place honors in the Convenience Store/Pharmacy category at the Retail Design Institute’s 41st annual international awards program on January 16 during the National Retail Federation’s annual conference. The 22,000 sq. foot project represented a collaborative effort between Duane Reade, New York-based branding and retail design consultancy CBX and Torontobased consultants Joe Jackman Brand, Inc. MARCH 2012 /

The new Secret Outlast™ Anti-Perspirant and Deodorant collection is partnering with Jenni Pulos, the ultimate todo-list master on Bravo’s Flipping Out. Ms. Pulos will be featured in Secret Outlast™’s upcoming holistic marketing campaign, including print and television advertising. HBA Global Expo is now accepting nominations for its annual International Package Design Awards (IPDA) at hbaexpo.com/ipda. The deadline for IPDA submissions is March 23. 16

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

INDUSTRY EAR

The 37th annual March of Dimes Beauty Ball will be held March 13 at Cipriani 42 nd Street in New York City. The event will be honoring Mindy GrossGina Sanders Mindy Grossman man, CEO of HSN, Inc., and Gina Sanders, CEO of Fairchild Fashion Media.

INDUSTRY EAR Just the Numbers

For the quarter ended December 31, 2011, Elizabeth Arden Inc. reported net sales of $429.9 million, an increase of 6%, as compared to the second quarter of the prior fiscal year. The L’Oréal group announced sales, at December 31, 2011, amounted to €20.343 billion euros, an increase of 4.3%. Like-for-like, based on a comparable structure and identical exchange rates, the sales trend of the L’Oréal group was increased 5.1%. The Procter & Gamble Company reported 4% sales growth to $22.1 billion for the October – December 2011 quarter. Beiersdorf Group reported sales for fiscal year 2011 increased by 2.1% compared with the previous year on a like-for-like basis. The Group’s preliminary figures show nominal sales growth of 1.1%, to €5.633 billion, compared to the previous year of €5.571 billion. Givaudan Group sales totaled CHF 3,915 million, an increase of 5.2% in local currencies compared to 2010. Sales of the Fragrance Division were CHF 1,833 million, an increase of 4.7% in local currencies. Inter Parfums, Inc. announced that net sales for the fourth quarter of 2011 were approximately $189.1 million, a 68% increase from $112.5 million in the fourth quarter of 2010 According to Nielsen TDLinx, as of December 31, 2011, the total store count of convenience stores (148,000) is 30,000-plus locations greater than the cumulative totals of competing channels, including supermarkets (32,924 stores), drug stores (38,526 stores), dollar stores (22,782 stores) and superettes (13,234 stores).

Avon Products, Inc. reported that despite a challenging fourth quarter, full-year 2011 revenue was up 4% (1% in constant dollars) to $11.3 billion. Unilever announced full-year results of €46.5 billion. The company’s core earnings per share were up 4% at €1.41 billion at year-end, with a free cash flow of €3.1 billion. Revlon, Inc. reported net sales of $1.381.4 billion compared to $1.321.4 billion, an increase of 4.5%. Excluding favorable foreign currency fluctuations of $17.0 million, 2011 net sales increased by 3.3%. L’Occitane International S.A. announced net sales for the nine months ended December 31, 2011 increased 16.4% to €681.4 million, as compared to the period ended December 31, 2010. The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. reported a strong financial performance for its second quarter ended December 31, 2011, which was slightly ahead of the top of its previously stated guidance. For the quarter, the company had net sales of $2.74 billion, a 10% increase compared with $2.49 billion reported in the prior-year quarter. International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. reported an increase of 2% revenue growth for the company’s fourth quarter over the prior year period to $644 million. According to research from Mintel, a substantial 61% of girls aged 9-11 would like to wear more makeup than their parents allow. When it comes to regular usage, 37% of girls aged 9-17 say they use lip gloss/ lipstick every day, while 33% report applying mascara on a daily basis. 27% stencil on eyeliner seven days a week and 16% use foundation every day.

Jennifer Steele, who as a college student was Miss Seventeen in February 2006, has grown up to become Cosmopolitan’s Associate Fashion Editor. Both magazines are published by Hearst Corporation. Steve Cohn, Editor in Chief, Media Industry Newsletter

MIN’S Monthly Boxscores Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2012. Title

FEBRUARY 2012

FEBRUARY 2011

% of Diff.

YTD 2012

YTD 2011

% of Diff.

Allure

89.05

56.84

56.67

129.85

95.79

35.56

Cosmopolitan

98.11

107.26

-8.53

149.17

161.33

-7.54

Elle

119.35

129.86

-8.09

186.42

207.17

-10.02

Glamour

82.05

85.08

-3.56

112.18

122.03

-8.07

Harper’s Bazaar

93.92

94.21

-0.31

93.92

135.60

-30.74

119.78

114.40

4.70

183.98

187.94

-2.11

InStyle Lucky

43.95

40.36

8.89

68.62

69.24

-0.90

Marie Claire

71.06

82.38

-13.74

107.39

124.07

-13.44

138.20

135.07

2.32

197.89

194.39

1.80

77.00

74.00

4.05

105.60

102.44

3.08

Vogue W

MARCH 2012 /

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Experience the excitement of our creative process; from discovery through development, to the emotional pleasure and celebration of the final product. Join us and enjoy the journey.

www.givaudan.com

THEPARTYSCENE

on the avenue Star Trek The Fashion Group International (FGI) announced its 15th annual Rising Star Awards at New York City’s Cipriani 42nd Street at a luncheon for the beauty and fashion industry’s luminaries. The winner of the Beauty/Fragrance Corporate award, presented by ELLE’s Emily Dougherty, was International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF)’s Celine Barel. Maureen Kelly gave D.S. & Durga the Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur Award, which was accepted by David and Kavi Moltz. Ruben and Isabel Toledo kicked off the event with their keynote speech.

IFF’s Celine Barel, Lorenzo Cavallaro, Veronique Ferval and Yvette Ross

The Musmanno Group’s Daniele Cardelia and Elizabeth Musmanno with Givaudan’s Kate Greene

Hudson’s Bay Company (The Bay, Lord & Taylor)’s Liz Rodbell, FGI’s Margaret Hayes and ELLE’s Emily Dougherty

Ms. Barel is congratulated by IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz for her Rising Star Award.

Robertet’s Gary Johnson, Donna Ramanauskas and Joe Lattarulo

Hudson’s Bay Company (The Bay, Lord & Taylor)’s Barbara Zinn-Moore (c.) with Robertet’s Christophe Maubert and Pierre Wulff

MARCH 2012 /

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Trudi Loren with Mr. Mirzayantz

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on the avenue P&G Prestige’s Don Loftus, Ms. Rodbell and Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger Cardone

LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics’ Pamela Baxter with Victoria’s Secret Beauty’s Shashi Batra

Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro, Geraldine Nicolai, Ms. Greene and Remi Pulverail

(Top) NARS Cosmetics’ Karine Hershmann, Kym Davis and Barbara Calcagni, (bottom) Jessica Cho, Sue Saadat, Jackie Grondin and Chopin Rabin

CHANEL’s Eileen Kim and Elizabeth Mankin

Beauté Prestige International’s Kory Marchisotto with NPD Group’s Karen Grant

FIT’s Mentors And Mentees The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)’s Master’s Degree Program Cosmetics And Fragrance Marketing And Management saluted its Executive Mentors at a luncheon sponsored by LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, N.A. The event was held in the LVMH Tower’s The Magic Room.

CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson and Jill Scalamandre of Chrysallis

Coty Prestige’s Breanne Martin, Catherine Walsh, Amanda Kahn and Jacqueline Chen The Estée Lauder Companies’ Cedric Prouvé and Alexandra Hardyment with Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro

(Continued on page 40) MARCH 2012 /

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THELATESTLAUNCHES

Beauty Fashion spoke with the industry’s top Perfumers to discover the notes and inspirations behind the latest launches in fragrance.

TRUTH OR DARE BY MADONNA Perfumer: Stephen Nilsen, Givaudan Truth or Dare by Madonna is a white floral fragrance with a signature gourmand darkness underneath. “The floral top notes of gardenia, creamy tuberose and dewy neroli are a nod to [Madonna’s] mother’s perfume and classical fine fragrances,” stated Mr. Nilsen. “At the same time, there’s a sensual modernity with vanilla absolute, caramelized amber and sensual musk.” Notes: Gardenia, tuberose, neroli, jasmine, benzoin tears, white lily petals, vanilla absolute, amber and musk Price: 30 ml, $39.00; 50 ml, $55.00; 75 ml, $68.00 Available: April

ESTÉE LAUDER BRONZE GODDESS CAPRI Perfumer: Harry Fremont, Firmenich Inspired by the Isle of Capri, this solar oriental creation glistens like an incandescent drop of liquid sunshine. The heart of Bronze Goddess Capri is a warm touch of radiant sensuality comprised of sun-soaked jasmine sambac and sensual muguet. A touch of peony adds to the floral energy. “We wanted to drench the skin like liquid gold,” affirmed Mr. Fremont. “This fragrance was created for every woman who wants to be seduced by the sparkling and exotic essence of soft, sultry nights in Capri.” Notes: Cassis, mandarin, lemon leaves, jasmine sambac, muguet, peony, vanilla, amberwood, patchouli and musk Price: 100 ml, $57.00

L’EAU DE CHLOÉ Perfumer: Michel Almairac, Robertet “The inspiration for L’Eau de Chloé came from natural rose water. Natural rose water has never been used in a fragrance in such a high proportion. This is something quite unique and maybe even an entirely new olfactive territory to explore,” stated Mr. Almairac. “The natural rose water brings something special which is quite difficult to explain, like a perfect symbiosis rare in the world of perfumery. I describe this fragrance as a Chypre Floral Citrus. The fragrance highlights the brightest side of Chloé Signature. Thanks to its modern structure, it is a fragrance with an elegant freshness and a lot of character and originality.” Notes: Rose water, citrus and patchouli Price: 1.7 oz., $65.00; 3.4 oz., $85.00 All launches are currently available unless otherwise noted. MARCH 2012 /

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THELATESTLAUNCHES

Notes From The Perfumers

Notes From The Perfumers BOND NO. 9 CENTRAL PARK WEST Perfumer: Laurent le Guernec, IFF “For the creation of Central Park West of Bond No. 9, Laurice Rahme [President and Founder of Bond No. 9] asked me to capture in the scent the elegance, grandness and greenery specific to that location. She told me that the fragrance needs to have ‘high power’ in order to reflect the magnificent architecture of that neighborhood,” stated Mr. le Guernec. “So I used in that composition a blend of beautiful, big, white florals with a clin d’oeil to a classic structure—and the result is exquisite.” Notes: Narcissus, ylang ylang, piquant pepper, orris, jasmine, linden, gardenia, white oak, vetiver and musk Price: 50 ml, $180.00; 100 ml, $250.00

AURA BY SWAROVSKI Perfumer: Olivier Cresp, Firmenich “‘Can crystal transform into a luminous perfume?’ That was the question asked of me, the Perfumer. With that, an olfactive aura of light was created. A spectacular luminescent fragrance called Aura by Swarovski,” said Mr. Cresp. “It started with a unique crystal, the dazzling clarity, the cut and faceted with Swarovski’s exclusive know-how, captures light, diffracts it and sheds it in a thousand and one luminous vibrations. The signature scent of Aura by Swarovski is directly inspired by this magic.” Notes: Lychee, white tuberose, rose, pink pepper, amber, benzoin and white musk Price: 1 oz., $65.00; 1.7 oz., $80.00; 2.5 oz., $100.00 Available: April

BEBE WISHES AND DREAMS Perfumer: Patricia Choux, Takasago “Timeless beauty, everlasting romance and eternal youth—what every woman wishes and dreams for—was the inspiration behind bebe’s new fragrance Wishes & Dreams,” said Ms. Choux. “With the chic, playfully sexy and sophisticated bebe woman in mind, I created a clean scent with sensual edge—a lingering trail of opulent notes including woods, musk, jasmine and my favorite flower, frangipani. The juiciness on top gives a peek into her sassy side.” Notes: Bergamot, coral freesia, French pear, jasmine absolute, wild violet, osmanthus, precious musk, exotic woods and patchouli Price: 30 ml, $38.00; 50 ml, $55.00; 100 ml, $70.00 Available: May

(Continued on page 44)

MARCH 2012 /

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FALL 2012 DEREK LAM

Estée Lauder’s Creative M a k e u p D i r e c t o r To m Pecheux created a fresh face backstage for Derek Lam— where Estée Lauder Global Spokesmodels Liu Wen and Joan Smalls both walked down the runway. Prepping the skin with Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex and Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15, Mr. Pecheux used new Estée Lauder Invisible Fluid Makeup to maintain a natural base for light sweeps of Estée Lauder Pure Color Blush in Brazen Bronze and Alluring Rose. A smoky, burgundy eye was achieved by using an eyeshadow palette that is set to launch in August. To finish the look, lips were coated with a combination of Estée Lauder Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Pink and Estée Lauder Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

For a look reminiscent of a “sophisticated 1980s” woman, Shiseido’s A r t i s t i c D i re c t o r D i ck Pa g e strengthened Models’ brows with a blend of cream shadows including shades of Shiseido The Makeup Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Sable (BR709), Meadow (BE204), Caviar (BK912) and Leather (BR306)—dependent on natural hair color. A custom, wax-based crimson shade was used on the lips for a bold burst of color to an otherwise minimalist face. To achieve a similar look, Shiseido The Makeu p Pe r f e c t R o u g e i n C e r i s e (RD516) and Valentine (RD415) can be applied.

CHARLOTTE RONSON

Influenced by the “uber-chic” women of the 1970s, the typically edgy Model that walks the Ronson runway has been polished and refined by the Sephora Pro Beauty Team led by Gilbert Soliz. The red-orange lips of Sephora Collection Lip Attitude – Glamour Lipstick in Red Flirt and Rosy Frivol worked in contrast to the purple hues on the eyes of Charlotte Ronson All Eye Need Eye Shadow Palette in Dani and MAKE UP FOR EVER Eye Shadow in #92 Purple.

JILL STUART

Styling a “done, but not done” look for the hair, Odile Gilbert for Kérastase Paris parted the Models’ hair down the center while amplifying the volume using Kérastase Mousse Substantive and topped the finished look with Kérastase Doub l e Fo rc e H a i r s p ray a n d K é ra s t a s e D o u b l e Fo rc e Ultime—for supreme staying power on the runway.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Envisioning variations on the “lady” and the “punk,” Shiseido’s Artistic Director Dick Page created individualized looks on the Models that featured highly-pigmented hues of browns, chartreuses and oranges. Faces were kept natural, with a base of Shiseido The Makeup Dual Balancing Foundation, to emphasize either the eyes or the lips. The two options of the punk-inspired eye can be recreated using Shiseido The Makeup Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Techno Gold (GD803) and Shiseido The Makeup Luminizing Satin Eye Color Trio in Fire (OR302), while shades of red, orange and reddish-brown from the Lacquer Rouge line, set to launch in the Fall, bedecked the lady-like lips.

MARCH 2012 /

(Continued on page 47) / B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

Backstage Beauty At

THELATESTLAUNCHES

he Cloudbreak Group, in partnership with the New York Yankees and Major League Baseball (MLB), has worked to develop, manufacture and distribute two new fragrances inspired by the iconic global brand, New York Yankees and New York Yankees for Her. To present the fragrances to the press, a celebration was held at Catch in New York City’s Meatpacking District on February 21. The evening allowed guests to discover the scent that is projected to be an olfactive musthave for any Yankee fan. “The Yankees are a global mega-brand with incredible domestic, regional and national influence. They are a brand that represents, class, commitment, success and has a fan base and market that is incredibly loyal,” said Thomas Butkiewicz, CEO of The Cloudbreak Group. “In a fragrance market saturated with celebrities and fashion brands, the Yankees organization and the master brand we have created have been able to bring innovation to the consumer by marrying sports, lifestyle, fashion and class. It gives access to the emotional element of being part of the brand.” The concept for the Yankees fragrances began two years ago when Mr. Butkiewicz met with Theo Spilka, Vice President of New Business Development & Licensing Worldwide of Firmenich, and Ike Franco, Co-Chairman and Principal of the Infinity Group. “We approached the New York Yankees organization about the idea and then met with Major League Baseball to work together to form a licensing agreement,” shared Mr. Butkiewicz. “MLB was fantastic throughout the process—both their domestic and international teams. MLB.com has also been incredibly supportive.” “We are excited about our relationship with The Cloudbreak Group, along with its new license with Major League Baseball Properties, as we develop sponsorships with strategic retail partners,” said Michael Tusiani, Senior Vice President, Corporate Sales & Sponsorships of the New York Yankees. “We believe that The Cloudbreak Group’s presence at Yankee Stadium will strengthen brand awareness for its fragrances and be an exciting new addition to Yankees prestige and lifestyle products.” Along with the new fragrances, The Cloudbreak Group’s partnership with the New York Yankees also includes permanent signage at Yankees Stadium for the fragrance and an advertisement in Yankees Magazine. “The advertising campaign is a mix of product shots coupled with photography which resonates with the tag line, “Past, Present and MARCH 2012 /

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THELATESTLAUNCHES

Yankees Hit A Home Run With Two New Scents

The playful, flirty spirit of the sparkling gourmand New York Yankees for Her Eau de Parfum kicks off with a fresh blend of vibrant fruit notes. The heart bursts with femininity as water lily intertwines with tiare flowe r, wh i l e s a n d a l wo o d , vanilla and musk radiate with an addictive sensuality as the fragrance dries down. Firmenich’s Perfumer Honorine Blanc developed the scent of New York Yankees for Her. Each scent will be offered in a 1.7 oz. size for the price of $49.00 and a 3.4 oz. size, $62.00. New York Yankees and New York Yankees for Her will debut on April 13 at Yankee Stadium and on The Cloudbreak Group’s Thomas Butkiewicz with New York Yankees’ Nicole Arceneaux and Ike Franco of Infinity Group April 26 in 82 doors of Macy’s as well as online at Forever,” stated Mr. Butkiewicz. A promotional day on macys.com. The scents will premiere at 24 Lord & Taylor June 7, when the Yankees play the Tampa Bay Rays, will doors throughout the tri-state area beginning in May. As include a premium giveaway for the first 18,000 fans that Yankees fandom spans the globe, additional distribution enter the stadium. to international markets will be unveiled throughout the To create the visual for the advertisement, focus groups season. were used to gauge maximum emotional connection to Players from the Yankees will make personal appearthe brand. Research showed that there was a heightened ances at Macy’s in April and Lord & Taylor in June. The sense of connection when the player in the advertisement athletes will be on-hand for autographs with each purwas not immediately recognizable. “What we learned chase from the new fragrance collection. through the focus group testing was that no one single “We have had fantastic support from the players and player really can carry the strength of the brand. It makes team in regards to the concept. The brand positioning sense, you are only as good as your team,” noted Mr. But- and advertising concepts have also been well received kiewicz. “Certain photography allows you to put yourself and are in line with the DNA of the Yankees organizain the shot, allowing you to tie emotionally to the brand tion,” stated Mr. Butkiewicz. promise.” To further create excitement for the new fragrances, Created by Firmenich’s Perfumer Ilias Ermenidis, the there will be a strong digital push with the brand that New York Yankees Eau de Toilette aims to embody the encompasses yankees.com, nyyankeesfragrance.com, the confident energy of the sports team. The scent begins on Yankees Facebook page and The Cloudbreak Group’s an energetic note of bergamot, coriander and blue sage Facebook page. A sampling program will also be implein combination with fresh wood tones that unfolds into a mented, which was developed in combination with Rich heart of ivy leaves, orange flower and geranium. The base Nightingale and Arcade Marketing. of the fragrance then settles on a note of suede, sandalFor more information on the Yankees-inspired wood and patchouli that works to add a striking sense of scents, visit facebook.com/nyyankeesfragrance or masculinity. nyyankeesfragrance.com. BF MARCH 2012 /

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

Launches

otal Beauty Media Group, founded in 2007, has introduced Total Beauty LIVE, a new, immersive platform where brands can leverage the total beauty community to seed product sampling, engage in consumer conversation and help create brand advocates. The beauty press and bloggers gathered at New York City’s Empire Hotel on February 14 for the premiere video broadcast and live chat on both totalbeautylive.com and Total Beauty’s Facebook page. Consumers could also join the conversation via Twitter.

Total Beauty Media Group’s Emrah Kovacoglu and Meghan Rabbitt (r.) with NYX Cosmetics’ Tonie Shin, Droga5’s Jonny Bauer, StarcomMediaVest Group’s Danielle Cherry and NBC Universal’s Erica Rubach

Model Tori (c.) has makeup applied by NYX Cosmetics’ Makeup Artist Jill McKay (r.) as Total Beauty Media Group’s Dawn Davis observes.

MARCH 2012 /

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Total Beauty LIVE presents opportunities through multiple digital media platforms. It is a hybrid research platform and product seeding experience as well as a springboard for realtime product engagement with consumers. Brands can tap into a pre-selected cross-section of consumers in the Total Beauty Community to send premium product samples prior to a broadcast. These pre-selected consumers receive a special invitation to join the public live chat, ask the expert questions and provide feedback on a product as well as converse with the entire audience. Emrah Kovacoglu, Founder, President and CEO of Total Beauty Media, Inc., maintains (Continued on page 56)

THELATESTLAUNCHES

Dolce&Gabbana Ultra-Shine Lipgloss in Pink Diamond 138 $29.00

glamour high Kick the glam up a notch with these more-is-more launches for spring.

Oscar de la Renta OSCAR Perfumed Dusting Powder 5.2 oz., $58.00, May Nails Inc. Special Effects 3D Glitter in Hammersmith $9.50

Estée Lauder Mad Men® Collection Creme Rouge in Evening Rose $40.00

wet n wild MegaLast Lip Color in Don’t Blink Pink $1.99 bareMinerals Marvelous Moxie Lipgloss in Hot Shot $18.00, May

SOAP & GLORY MIGHTY MOUTH™ in Naked Pink $22.00, April

Agent Provocateur ‘Eau Provocateur’ Eau de Toilette Spray 50 ml, $70.00, April All launches are currently available unless otherwise noted. MARCH 2012 /

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Katy Perry by Eylure in Cool Kitty $6.99 (Continued on page 48)

THELATESTLAUNCHES

FIRST LOOK

AT-COUNTER

CounterIntelligence

Clarins Skin Spa At Bloomingdale’s

59th Street The Clarins Skin Spa and retail installation opened on October 31 at New York City’s Bloomingdale’s 59th Street. Beauty Fashion asked Clarins’ Jayson Chévere, RDI, Senior Director of Store Design—Americas, about his concept for this new space and how it better connects with the customer.

Clarins’ Jayson Chévere, RDI

“I wanted the Skin Spa to be quiet and inviting,” Mr. Chévere explained. “This is a dedicated storefront that brings the customer into a calm and relaxing environment. The Skin Spa becomes a destination and a portal to skincare transformation.” The design of this Skin Spa is very specific to its configuration of space at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street. Located in front of the elevators, “it is the last brand you see if you are taking the elevators,” he said, “and the first brand you see if you are arriving at the main area.” The crystal glass cube entrance has a soft velvet curtain that he maintains “quickly c h a n g e s t h e c u s t o m e r ’s m o o d s o t h e y b e g i n t o r e l a x . W h i t e , soft-angled leather seating and a wave wall backdrop further enhance the quality of their experience and relaxing journey.” Scent, music and dimmer lights add to the environment. Mr. Chévere shared “the lighting is designed to never shine directly into the eyes. White wall panels have angled lines instead of the typical vertical lines. This helps change a customer’s perception of space. The Skin Spa has wood floors and an out-of-the-way sink area.” The spa services complement the retail space where customers can explore and browse. The retail area is an island site approximately 36 square meters. The additional wall site is about 29 square meters, and one-half of it is dedicated to the Skin Spa. According to Mr. Chévere, the design of Clarins’ retail area is brand new. Luxurious materials, clear glass, high-end plastics, LED

The layout for Clarins’ installation at Bloomingdale’s allows for easy access to all areas.

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(Continued on page 50)

Emily Schuman Enhances Online Editorial Presence For Estée Lauder Brand Emily Schuman, award-winning fashion blogger for Cupcakes and Cashmere, is the new Guest Editor for digital and social media platforms at Estée Lauder, the flagship brand of The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. It is the first time a blogger’s voice has been integrated into the brand’s communications. Ms. Schuman, winner of the 2010 Webbie Award for Best Fashion Blog, will work closely with Estée Lauder to create editorial-inspired content that links beauty with lifestyle for esteelauder.com and Estée Lauder’s social media platforms including Facebook, Twitter and YouTube. As Estée Lauder continues to evolve its voice and expand its presence in digital and social media, Jane Hertzmark Hudis, Global Brand President of Estée Lauder, shared that the brand “is thrilled to be a part of Emily’s world and to bring Emily into ours. She is part of a broader strategy to communicate Estée Lauder’s point of view on beauty and engage with our consumers in new and exciting ways.” Ms. Schuman’s editorial posts appear on esteelauder.com and espanol.esteelauder.com with new content updated weekly. The posts show Ms. Schuman in her environment. She will host live chats on Facebook, initiating polls and engaging with Estée Lauder Facebook fans. On YouTube, her editorial and How-To videos are available for viewing, and she will host Emily Schuman Tweet-ups to converse with Twitter followers. “My blog showcases lifestyle—fashion, beauty, interior design and food. It’s aspirational yet attainable. I like to take the time to mix and match high-end with low-end fashion, make the effort to paint my nails or create a beautiful meal. It just takes a little extra effort to elevate your lifestyle,” Ms. Schuman expressed. She believes it is in synch with the philosophies of the Estée Lauder brand and its philosophy, “Every woman can be beautiful.” Ms. Schuman discovered Estée Lauder through its color products and “fell in love with the brand. The Estée Lauder nail colors, such as its signature red, are fantastic and stay on longer. It’s about showcasing and curating what I love and sharing them with my readers.” “I am so honored to be associated with the Estée Lauder brand,” she continued. As she has developed content for her blog for the past four years, Ms. Schuman will continue that organic approach for Estée Lauder. It was a natural segue for the Estée Lauder brand to partner with Ms. Schuman, according to Estée Lauder’s Geri Schachner, Senior Vice President, Global CommuMs. Schuman serves as Guest Editor on Estée Lauder’s digital and social nications. “The Estée Lauder brand has experienced a media platforms. modernization over the past few years. We have three new Models and Tom Pecheux was appointed our Creative Makeup Director. We then looked at how to incorporate more editorial voice in esteelauder.com and our social media.” “Last year,” Ms. Schachner explained, “we added a section on esteelauder.com featuring our Models’ tips on beauty. Wanting to take that editorial voice further, we started working with Emily on the products she likes. She loves color and makeup. She puts beauty and lifestyle together in an engaging way.”

(Continued on page 55)

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

BLOGGER VOICE

THEPARTYSCENE

T Maesa Group’s Jill Belasco, Scent Marketing Institute’s Caroline Pieper-Vogt, Elysée Scientific Cosmetics’ Linda Marshall and Jennifer Marshall (r.) with Kaplow Communications’ Liz Kaplow

he eighth annual Beyond Beauty dinner was held at the Union League Club in New York City on February 9 to raise funds to fight the devastating mental illness, Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder (OCD). Linda Marshall, President of Elysée Scientific Cosmetics, founded the James E. Marshall OCD Foundation in memory of her son who died of OCD in 2002. She turned this tragedy into a beautiful memorial to her son and has raised funds for genetic research and awareness of OCD now totaling over $2 million.

The Marshall family’s Jadyn, Ryan, Linda, Jennifer and John

Family Circle’s Linda Moran Evans, YBF’s David Schieffelin and Stacey Schieffelin with Lynne Ronon of Nation Design Partners and Laura King

The SPWI Group’s Shira White, The Bertha Foundation’s Tony Tabatznik, Johns Hopkins’ Dr. Gerald Nestadt and Susan Nestadt

CEW’s Lisa Klein and Carlotta Jacobson (r.) with Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer

CBS’ Dana Tyler, Dr. Nestadt and Linda Marshall applaud the $225,000 raised at the 2012 Beyond Beauty event.

The annual benefit is always held near Valentine’s Day, because the last photo of James Marshall was taken on February 14 with his wife and son six weeks before he died. His last wish was “to make a difference,” and Linda Marshall continues to make sure that wish is fulfilled. This year’s Beyond Beauty event raised $225,000, which was presented to Dr. Gerald Nestadt, Director of the Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder Program at Johns Hopkins. Dr. Nestadt noted, “Because of the collective generosity and success of last year’s gala event, we are running clinical trials and identifying novel genes that could be implemented in the underlying cause of OCD.” (Continued on page 51) MARCH 2012 /

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Prestige Fragrance Trend in Usage

% of adults (18-64) who wear fragrance

83% 73% 2008

that provided a halo effect for sales of existing brands. Juices, which make

85% 76%

healthy 11% gain in 2011. We saw new brands deliver successful launches

Men

83% 73%

Women

Building on 2010’s momentum, prestige fragrance sales experienced a

78% 67% 79% 67%

and Swati Bhargava, Consumer Insights Manager

2007

up the majority of the business, were the main driver of growth for men’s

bilization of fragrance usage among women and men versus 2010, hopefully stemming the gradual declines seen over the previous few years.

2011

Another encouraging sign for the fragrance industry in 2011 was the sta-

2010

and women’s fragrances. 2009

THEBEAUTYBIZ

By Larissa Jensen, Senior Category Specialist

Source: The NPD Group/Men’s FragranceTrack® 2011, Women’s FragranceTrack® 2011

How can fragrance marketers capitalize on these positive signs? The power of

Fragrance Family Dollar Share

a brand is a crucial part of a fragrance’s appeal, but a winning scent can drive

2011

ongoing success. In 2011, men gravitated to juices in the Woods fragrance

Women’s

family, while Floral was the best seller for women. Interestingly, sales of Woody Oriental scents rank second for both men and women. Do consumers think about fragrances in these terms? Proliferating a fragrance “vocabulary” could help raise their consciousness of what they really like (or don’t), similar to the way we would evaluate our favorite wines. Armed with a way to select

18% 12% 18%

the best fragrance for them could lead consumers to use it more often and give them the conﬁdence to experiment with new fragrances.

In an uncertain economy, consumers will scrutinize every purchase. Finding creative ways to keep them engaged in the fragrance category will be key

38%

13%

Men’s

11% 28%

20%

to future growth.

22% Prestige Fragrance

Dollar Performance

-10%

2009

2010

Floral Woody Oriental Floral Oriental Soft Floral Mossy Woods Remaining

Woods Woody Oriental Water Aromatic Fougere Dry Woods Remaining

Source: The NPD Group/BeautyTrends® Prestige Retail Tracking Service — U.S.

11%

2011

Source: The NPD Group/BeautyTrends Prestige Retail Tracking Service Learn more. Contact Charles Camaroto at 866-444-1411 or email contactnpd@npd.com. About The NPD Group, Inc. The NPD Group is the leading provider of reliable and comprehensive consumer and retail information for a wide range of industries. Today, more than 2,000 manufacturers, retailers, and service companies rely on NPD to help them drive critical business decisions at the global, national, and local market levels. NPD helps our clients to identify new business opportunities and guide product development, marketing, sales, merchandising, and other functions. Information is available for the following industry sectors: automotive, beauty, entertainment, fashion, food, home and ofﬁce, sports, technology, toys, video games, and wireless. For more information, contact us, visit npd.com, or follow us on Twitter at twitter.com/npdgroup.

npd.com

BF MARCH 2012 /

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

The Sweet Smell of Success

THEBEAUTYBIZ

THE STRENGTHS AND FUTURE OF

ULTA AT CEW

osmetic Executive Women (CEW) hosted its first Newsmaker Forum of the year on February 16 at the Harmonie Club in New York City with Chuck Rubin, President and CEO of ULTA Beauty. At the sold-out event, Mr. Rubin shared his experience of joining ULTA in 2010, from his previous position of President of the North American Retail division of Office Depot, and gave attendees an inside look at one of the largest beauty retailers in the US as he discussed the driving forces and future of the company. Offering its customers one-stop shopping with products in the mass, prestige and salon categories as well as salon services, ULTA was founded in 1990 and has grown to include approximately 450 stores in the US. Mr. Rubin explained that ULTA Beauty’s Chuck Rubin (c.) with Chrysallis’ Jill Scalamandre the foundation of the company is firmly based on being con- and CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson sumer-minded. Though there are no ULTA locations in Manhattan, he insisted that the retailer’s typically suburban-based customer is no less interested in the “fun, function and fashion of the beauty industry,” compared to beauty-savvy Manhattanites. “Our offerings, whether in store or online, are based on what we believe she wants today and, by showing her the trends, what she will want tomorrow,” Mr. Rubin explained. “Everything really starts and ends with what she wants.” The focus on creating an experience at retail sets ULTA apart from its competitors. “Because we are not a vertical retailer, everyone is our competition. We need to provide something unique for the woman that shops with us, because she can find our products elsewhere, and that uniqueness is predicated on creating an experience for her,” stated Mr. Rubin. The SOMEDAY by Justin Bieber launch was an especially exciting ‘experience’ for the retailer. The introduction into ULTA stores was a “big success. To bring the launch to life, we had full-size cutouts of Justin Bieber in all of our doors, which created a ton of buzz,” said Mr. Rubin. He shared that customers of all ages would come to the store just to take their pictures with the Singer’s likeness. “This is an example of ULTA adding a unique twist that would make a customer shop with us versus another retailer,” affirmed Mr. Rubin. “It gives the customer a reason to come to ULTA.” Successfully creating an experience in-store begins with hiring the right employees. “We have over 13,000 associates at ULTA, and I’m proud to say that we have one of the most energetic, passionate teams. It all starts with the right training; educating our associates is never ending.” In the coming year, ULTA will be investing in technologies to enhance its digitally-based training materials. Another factor of the retailer’s success, Mr. Rubin shared, was that the nimble, entrepreneurial spirit of ULTA allows fast decisions to be executed that benefit in the long-term. “When compared to our competitors, we can be more aggressive, innovative and can leverage the financial strength of the company. We move quickly and can make deci-

OPI’s William Halfacre and Debbie Halfacre with Tim Forbriger of L’Oréal Pro Products Division

Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer with Elizabeth Arden’s Joel Ronkin and Elizabeth Park with Kathleen McNeill of Beauty.com MARCH 2012 /

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P&G’s Michele Wolford with Mr. Rubin

(Continued on page 52)

THEBEAUTYBIZ

RUBIN DISCUSSES

THEBEAUTYBIZ

fter VMV Hypoallergenics®’ opening in New York City’s Union Square area in December 2010, it is now plotting an expansion in the United States. According to CC Verallo Rowell, Operations Manager, North America for VMV USA, Ltd., the company is making plans to grow its US presence with several initiatives. VMV Hypoallergenics®’ first store in the US was a learning experience for Ms. Verallo Rowell. “We wanted to give ourselves time to play a little bit and make mistakes to learn what does and doesn’t work in the US. In Asia, it’s a very mall-based shopping experience, while in New York City, it’s a street [shopping] experience.” A Philippines-based company, VMV Hypoallergenics® has 12 stores and over 40 department store counters in the Philippines, Thailand and the Middle East, with additional doors in Hong Kong and Mexico as well as additional expansion into Italy this year. Founded by Ms. Verallo Rowell’s mother, a Dermatologist-Dermatopathologist, in 1979 for patients who were allergic and couldn’t use other products, VMV Hypoallergenics ® VMV Hypoallergenics®’ CC Verallo Rowell and Kristen Owen in their New York City store offers SKUs for babies, children, women and men. “We cover every customer from diapers to post-dermabrasion,” she declared. “My mother came up with our VHRating System based on the objective, independent references for allergens: the North American Contact Dermatitis Group and the European Surveillance System on Contact Allergies. These groups collate 28,000 patch tests on allergic skin reactions, and now 76 top allergens have been identified.” She cited a study by the American Academy of Dermatology on 10,000 people that indicated 24% of adults or one in four were found to be allergic to at least one thing in their Ms. Owen holds VMV Hypoallergenics®’ Re-Everything Eye Serum, and Ms. Verallo Rowell showcases VMV Hypoallergenics®’ Re-Everything Face-Hand-Body Lotion. cosmetic or skincare regimens. (Continued on page 55) MARCH 2012 /

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THEBEAUTYBIZ

VMV HYPOALLERGENICS BUILDS BASE IN US

THEBEAUTYBIZ

Clarins Fragrance Group Plots Strategy

Beauty Fashion met with Lionel Uzan, Vice President Marketing at Clarins Fragrance Group, to discuss its strategy for the launch of Aura by Swarovski. Beauty Fashion: What is your plan for the distribution of Aura by Swarovski? Lionel Uzan: Clarins Fragrance Group’s expertise is to use unconventional marketing approaches to build brands, with a long-term vision for growth. This approach also applies to distribution. Swarovski is extending for the first time its brand’s territory to the fragrance world, and we wanted to present this innovative fragrance and make-up jewel collection in its core environment in the US. Aura will be distributed exclusively in Swarovski boutiques for the first year. BF: How is it positioned so it will have the best opportunities for exposure to its target customers? LU: For over a century, Swarovski has perfected the poetry of light. Aura by Swarovski was created to epitomize this captivating and spectacular radiance that glimmers through precision cut crystals. From its packaging design, its olfactory structure and to its name, we conceived Aura to be a modern and Lionel Uzan distinctively feminine fragrance, inspired by the beauty of light. The price positioning for both fragrance and make-up jewels is in line with fashion accessories sold in Swarovski boutiques. We refer to our positioning as “affordable luxury.” BF: Will there be special events to pulse the awareness of the fragrance in the post-launch period? LU: We are working in close partnership with the Swarovski team to organize in-store animations throughout the year, with a major emphasis in September with the launch of additional limited-edition items during Fashion Week. Aura will also be exposed in major high-profile fashion events in different parts of the country, capitalizing on the intimate relationship that Swarovski has developed with the fashion and entertainment industry. BF: What is the training program for the Sales Associates to help them tell the story of Aura by Swarovski? LU: A combination of hands-on education workshops and e-learning modules to make the customer fragrance experience simple, theatrical, and engaging. BF: Are you making use of digital media to promote the fragrance? LU: Yes, with a strong emphasis on social media. This is really unavoidable. Swarovski has an extensive consumer database and has developed a strong emotional bond with its core customers. We are nurturing a new network of brand evangelists and have developed a large expertise in that field as we built the Thierry Mugler fragrance portfolio for the last twenty years. BF MARCH 2012 /

Aura by Swarovski

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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

SOUTH FLORIDA SCENE

GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

Regenerator Concentrate, a dynamic triple threat that targets dark spots, wrinkles and pores, and the Luminessence Bright Primer Essence-in-Lotion that works to moisturize, smooth and even the skin’s tone.

The Lymphoma Foundation’s Elizabeth Dalfen, Errol Cook and Gladys Cook join Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Tim Quinn and Dr. Morton Coleman.

Saks Fifth Avenue’s Shauna Graham and Mr. Quinn

Mr. Quinn applies makeup to a Model before the show.

Giorgio Armani Beauty’s globe-trotting Celebrity Face Designer, Tim Quinn, made a quick stop home to South Florida to participate in the fashion event that Saks Fifth Avenue in Boca Raton was presenting for the Lymphoma Research Foundation. This fundraising event took place at the prestigious St. Andrew’s Country Club and featured welcoming remarks by Dr. Morton Coleman, Director for Lymphoma and Myeloma for the New York Presbyterian Hospital-Weill Cornell Medical Center. As Mr. Quinn and his team got the Models runwayready, he discussed the spring makeup collection. “It’s all about ethereal, glowing skin,” said Mr. Quinn. “And we have some amazing new additions to our skincare line.” These new products include Luminessence Bright

Also premiering this season is Regenessence [3.R] HIGH LIFT, Multi-Firming Rejuvenating Rich Cream, which reduces wrinkles, firms and reshapes. Known as the “skin’s elasticity recreator,” this cream lifts skin by 8 degrees, according to clinical studies. The Regenessence [3.R] HIGH LIFT line also features a Multi-Firming Eye Balm that nourishes and conditions the eye area for a smoother, more supple appearance. While Mr. Quinn prettied the pouts of the Models, he also talked about the hot look for lips. “It’s all about sheer color,” he explained. “Pinks, corals, reds and purples. The Rouge Armani Sheers are not so wet and glossy looking; it’s a sheer sheen that’s really beautiful.” The softer look also works for eyes. “It’s all about light, not dark,” Mr. Quinn noted. “Look for pastel eyes, think sea shells and the golds and the coppers of sand. The new Spring Collection 2012 eye palettes have a beautiful radiance that adds a special luminosity to the eye.”

LA MER FACIAL EVENT AT BLOOMINGDALE’S BOCA RATON When Bloomingdale’s Boca Raton introduced La Mer to this location at the end of 2011, they wanted to create a point of difference—something that would attract new customers to learn more about the world-renowned brand. Daily mini-facials and monthly facial events have brought much attention to the counter. (Continued on page 56)

MARCH 2012 /

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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

by Kay Renz

FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

PARIS

by Sarah Colton

IFF’s Dominique Ropion, Takasago’s Françoise Caron and Firmenich’s Olivier Cresp join Givaudan’s Daniela Andrier, Symrise’s Maurice Roucel and Frédéric Mitterrand, the French Minister of Culture and Communication.

On January 26 in a double homage to Perfumers, the French Ministry of Culture and Communication inaugurated an exhibit dedicated to Perfumers entitled, “The Ministry is about Perfume” and awarded the title of Chevalier de L’Ordre des Arts et des Metiers to five outstanding Perfumers. The equivalent of a British knighthood, the award’s purpose is the recognition of significant contributions to the arts, literature, or the propagation of these fields. It was bestowed by Frédéric Mitterrand, the French Minister of Culture and Communication, to Daniela Andrier, Olivier Cresp, Françoise Caron, Maurice Roucel and Dominique Ropion. A sixth perfumer, Olivia Giacobetti, of Iskia and Robertet, was unable to be present for the ceremony and will receive her award at a later date.

The last time there was an event of this magnitude was more than twenty years ago in 1990 when Jean Kerléo, Jean Paul Guerlain, Jacques Polge, and Edmond Roudnitska were made officers in the knighthood, and JeanLouis Sieuzac, Maurice Maurin, Jean Guichard and the late Jean François Blayn, former President of the Société Française de Parfumeurs (SFP), were knighted. More recently, Francis Kurkdjian was knighted in a private ceremony. In an eloquent speech, the Minister, Mr. Mitterrand, spoke about the history of fragrance, the powerful connection between people and

L’Osmothèque’s Patricia de Nicolai with SFP and Charabot’s Michel Maunier-Rossi and ISIPCA’s Isabelle DuFour

Mr. Mitterrand with SFP’s Patrick Saint Yves and Ionnaud’s Bernard Ionnaud MARCH 2012 /

perfume and the importance of perfumery to the French heritage. Fragrance, he said, “like music, it is an art of its time.” He expressed his desire to pay tribute to the perfume creators “whose great talents enrich, renew and awaken our senses,” but whose identities often remain unknown. Following the ceremony the air in the Ministry ballroom was bubbling with joy and Champagne as members of Le Tout French Perfume industry relished this pinnacle of shared success and commented upon its significance for Perfumers, who have too often been overlooked for recognition as artists in spite of their crucial contribution to one of the most important and prestigious of French industries. Patrick Saint Yves, President of SFP, was overjoyed. “This is the first time in many years that official recognition has been given to Perfumers 38

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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

NOTES FROM

‘opening of the ball’ of this important anniversary year, as there will be more events to celebrate and carry out the mission of the SFP, which is to promote knowledge understanding and recognition for Perfumers. You will be hearing more about this very soon.” Referring to the significance of the perfume exhibit which is situated in the elegant and historic Valois Colonnade Gallery of the Ministry at the Palais Royal, Annick Le Guérer, scientific commissaire of the exhibit, said, “Perfumers have been recognized as artists numerous times over the centuries, and in particular, since the 19th century. Regrettably, the majority of contemporary perFirmenich’s Richard Herpin with Sabine Chabbert and Mr. Saint Yves join Givaudan’s fume creators remains in the shadows, Frédéric Rivoire and Aurélien Guichard. unknown to the public, hidden as they themselves, the men and women who create perfumes, are behind the recognition given to brands. The purpose rather than to the companies which generally get all the of this exhibit is to pay homage to Perfumers and to open credit and glory. I am extremely happy with this event but their secret universe to the public.” not surprised because it is the result of a request I made The responses of the Perfumers were as varied as their to the Ministry of Culture and Communications on behalf personalities, yet another indication of the diversity and richness they bring to the world through their creations. Ms. Andrier, knighted Perfumer at Givaudan, said, “We all know perfectly well what we can be proud of, and there is no need to be made a ‘chevalier’ [knight] to know this, and there is no need to be sad not to be made a chevalier. The recognition is relevant and beautiful for our whole industry. We are all ‘chevaliers’ of the Arts and Literature as long as we create innovative fragrances full of charm and poetry.” Frédéric Rivoire, Senior Vice President Fine Fragrances, Givaudan, said, “The knighting of individual Perfumers and the exhibit honoring Perfumers unite all the players in the industry and are a lovely way to pay tribute to Perfumers, brands, and Designers.” Inter-Parfums’ Philippe Benacin (c.) with colleagues of SFP, and much work and preparation were necessary to make it happen,” said Mr. Saint Yves. “Still, my wishes have been more than fulfilled. The moving speech the Minister gave on fragrance showed that he had studied the subject in depth, and the event, itself, beautifully illustrates the artistic side of this activity—and I deliberately use the word ‘activity’—for the work of a Perfumer is both that of an artist and that of a professional. Perhaps, most importantly, this event, which signifies a momentous breakthrough for Perfumers, comes at an auspicious time because this year marks the 70th anniversary of the SFP. Indeed, one could say this event is the

AZUR FRAGRANCES’ Andy von Loringhoven (2nd r.) with Mr. Guichard, Mr. Saint Yves and Mr. Herpin

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on the avenue

(continued from page 22) The Fragrance Foundation’s Terry Molnar, Lyn Leigh, Ms. Lapsansky, Jacqueline Simmons, Amy Rubin and (front) Lilia Nicoletti

Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro with Rochelle Bloom and Mr. Batra

Victoria’s Secret Beauty’s Natalie Ivezaj, Givaudan’s Kate Greene and SGD North America’s Shéhérazade Chamlou

Givaudan’s Yara Karmiloff and Rodrigo FloresRoux

Mr. Policastro with Ms. Lapsansky

The Executive Mentors of the FIT Master’s Degree Program Cosmetics And Fragrance Marketing and Management

2012 FiFi® “Indie” Award

Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro, Odin Fragrances New York’s David Pirrotta, Larry Paul and Kelly Kovack, drom’s Kevin Verspoor, RPG’s Bruce Teitelbaum, Elements Showcase’s Frederick Bouchardy, Jeff Lawson (2nd r.) and Ulrich Lang (r.) with The Fragrance Foundation’s Mary Ellen Lapsansky

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Paul Austin of Paul Austin Associates, Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe and Givaudan’s Yann Vasnier

The Fragrance Foundation announced the 2012 FiFi® “Indie” Award at the Elements Showcase in New York City. Five fragrance brands were judged on criteria provided by The Fragrance Foundation and its “Indie” Committee. Mary Ellen Lapsansky, Vice President of The Fragrance Foundation, announced the winner at a gala cocktail reception sponsored by RPG. The $10,000 check was presented by Givaudan’s Executive Vice President, Fine Fragrances, Cosimo Policastro to the winner, 06 Amanu, Odin Fragrances New York. Its Co-Creators, Odin Fragrances New York’s Larry Paul and Kelly Kovack, accepted the award and were accompanied by drom’s Perfumer, Kevin Verspoor. 40

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Estée Lauder’s Seasonal Beauty Tips

Lord & Taylor’s Alejandro Reyes (2nd l.) and Hudson’s Bay Company (The Bay, Lord & Taylor)’s Nicole Grochmal, Barbara Zinn-Moore, Shelley Rozenwald and David Clements

Estée Lauder’s Derek Miller applies the latest seasonal colors to a client.

Glamour Apothecary Wall

Glamour’s Bill Wackermann and C.O. Bigelow’s Ian Ginsberg (r.) with Petra Nemcova at the ribbon cutting for the Glamour Apothecary Wall

The Glamour Apothecary Wall where shoppers could snap and shop for six days

Lord & Taylor’s Guepsy Ortiz (c.) with Mr. Reyes and Mr. Miller

Elizabeth Arden’s Prevage collection available at the Glamour Apothecary Wall

An all-day event at Lord & Taylor’s Estée Lauder installation offered customers the latest beauty tips and trends. Clients made an appointment to get an update on the newest colors of the season as well as learn about new DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme Oil-Free SPF 25 and Topaz New Pure Color Spring 2012.

Glamour and C.O. Bigelow collaborated on the first m-commerce wall in the US. The Glamour Apothecary Wall was unveiled on February 14 and was up for six days to provide C.O. Bigelow favorites along with prestige lines like Elizabeth Arden’s Prevage SKUs and personal care products from Unilever. Glamour worked with SpyderLynk to SnapTag-enable the shopable wall.

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on the avenue “Elizabeth Arden’s Prevage products partnered with Glamour in a new, innovative platform to bring its products to life in a new, retail environment. We’re happy that this digital interaction is a new way that shoppers can experience Prevage Face Serum, Prevage Eye Serum and Prevage Day Cream,” affirmed Elizabeth Arden’s Dara Golush, Director of North American Marketing, Skincare and Color. The Glamour Apothecary Wall also featured Viva La Juicy and Curve Appeal fragrances from Elizabeth Arden.

CEW’s Young Executives Meet And Greet

Sundsbø Soars At Armory

Steven Frumkin, Dean, Jay and Patty Baker School of Business & Technology at FIT, greeted the CEW Young Executives.

P&G Prestige’s Joanne Crewes, W Magazine’s Stefano Tonchi, Cate Blanchett and Solvø Sundsbø

Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger Cardone and Diane DePaul

P&G Prestige’s Don Loftus (c.) with W Magazine’s Nina Lawrence and Jane Larkworthy

“The Ever Changing Face of Beauty” by Norwegian fashion Photographer Sølve Sundsbø was unveiled at Manhattan’s Park Avenue Armory at a gala party hosted by W Magazine in partnership with P&G Prestige. “The Ever Changing Face of Beauty” is a video installation featuring two 50-foot-tall screens representing man and woman. Each explores the consequences of the global evolution in beauty. MARCH 2012 /

Ms. DePaul (r. front) and Jessica Axelrod of Edelman Public Relations Worldwide (2nd right in) with CEW Young Executives

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Procter & Gamble’s Anitra Marsh (r. front) and Meredith’s Alicia Kelley (2nd right in) chats with CEW Young Executives.

Mr. Le Grévès with IFF’s Anahita Mekanik

Marie Claire sponsored an event for Cosmetic Executive Women’s Young Executives to score face time with senior executives from Revlon, Procter & Gamble and L’Oréal. Attendees mixed and mingled with beauty industry leaders at “Cocktails & Connections: Speed Networking,” which was held at Fashion Institute of Technology.

Thirdman, a new collection of three Eau de Colognes, debuted at Bergdorf Goodman with a champagne party for customers. The three fragrances, developed by International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), are also at select Neiman Marcus stores.

Lucky’s Cover Party

Third Man At BG

IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz with Third Man Inc.’s Jean-Christophe Le Grévès

Lucky’s Brandon Holley with Ashley Greene and DKNY’s Danielle Vreeland

Mr. Le Grévès joins Bergdorf Goodman’s Diana Yasnis with IFF’s Bruno Jovanovic and Clement Gavarry.

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The March cover of Lucky featured Ashley Greene. A party to celebrate the cover was hosted at Los Angeles’ Soho House by Lucky, DKNY and Ms. Greene. BF 43

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Notes From The Perfumers (continued from page 24)

ROBERTO CAVALLI BY ROBERTO CAVALLI Perfumer: Louise Turner, Givaudan “The seduction is visible, it is a fragrance that fills a room. She wants to be noticed. She won’t lie on her personality, she is intense and assumes her seduction,” said Ms. Turner. “The woman who wears the fragrance loves life, has a real ‘joie de vivre.’ She knows what she wants. She is a ‘real’ woman.” Notes: Pink peppers, orange blossom and tonka bean Price: 1.7 oz., $65.00; 2.5 oz., $85.00

REBELLE BY RIHANNA Perfumers: Marypierre Julien and Caroline Sabas, Givaudan According to Ms. Julien and Ms. Sabas, Rebelle is “a daring and sassy gourmand, using top notes of juicy strawberry, a spicy ginger and lush plum. We worked with the patchouli and amber of Reb’l Fleur [Rihanna’s premiere fragrance] and infused a cacao absolute to keep the sexy background.” Notes: Plum, strawberry, ginger, vanilla orchid, heliotrope, cacao absolute, musk, coffee, patchouli and amber Price: 1.7 oz., $49.00; 3.4 oz., $59.00

CALVIN KLEIN CK ONE SUMMER Perfumer: Richard Herpin, Firmenich “Imagine sitting by the sea, watching the sun sparkle on the blue and green waters. I wanted to capture an energizing sensation suitable for both sexes, something cool, wet, fresh and crisp,” said Mr. Herpin. “Splashed by a cool refreshment of blue mint and cucumber, this exact emotion was brought to life; a citrus twist of lime and bergamot [added a] zesty, innovative impact. I created a fluid cocktail of green apple, rosemary, lotus and fresh water accords—it is delicate, fun and refreshing. A smooth rum cocktail builds a dreamy summer drydown.” Notes: Blue mint, cucumber, lime, bergamot, water lotus, fresh watery accord, rosemary, green apple, rum cocktail, sandalwood, driftwood and sea moss Price: 3.4 oz., $48.00

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HER EAU DE TOILETTE DÉLICATE Perfumer: Aurélien Guichard, Givaudan A lighter take on Narciso Rodriguez for her, this limited-edition scent reinterprets the original into a fresh, intoxicating blend that evokes an inherent feminine grace—an enduring inspiration for Mr. Rodriguez. The fragrance begins on a fruit note that develops into an elegant heart of musk. The soft tenderness of the scent combines with the powerful sophistication of amberlyn and patchouli that becomes addictive as it lingers on the skin. Notes: Fig, musk, osmanthus, patchouli and amberlyn Price: 4.2 oz., $102.00 MARCH 2012 /

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BURBERRY BODY MIST Perfumer: Michel Almairac, Robertet “Sometimes the inspiration comes immediately. It’s a part of the mystery of creation. For Burberry, I wanted to capture the sensations that I feel while I am walking in the English countryside,” stated Mr. Almairac. “The contrast between the rose and absinthe really appealed to me and resulted in the culmination of a perfume that was created naturally. For me, Burberry Body Mist can be described in 3 words: addictive, wild and natural.” Notes: Absinthe, peach, freesia, rose absolute, iris, sandalwood, cashmeran, vanilla, amber and musk Price: 2.8 oz., $50.00

FAN DI FENDI EAU DE TOILETTE Perfumer: Delphine Lebeau, Takasago Created by Ms. Lebeau, Fan di Fendi EDT is a sexy scent for the skin—a radiant, sparkling floral on a leathery base. Fan di Fendi is addictive and irresistible. Who is she? She is the girl of the night. Fun-loving and free. Crazy about life, luxury and everything lovely. Sensual, electrifying and playful. She is Fan di Fendi, the modern Fendi woman. Notes: Lemon petit grain, tangerine, green tea, blackcurrant accord, broom flower absolute, yellow jasmine accord, patchouli and soft leather accord Price: 1.7 oz., $67.00; 2.5 oz., $81.00 Available: April

GIVENCHY DAHLIA NOIR EAU DE TOILETTE Perfumer: François Demachy of LVMH “The Eau de Toilette must be conceived as a one-of-a-kind product and not as a derivation of the Eau de Parfum. Our work consists in altering the fragrance balance by adding fresh citrus top notes such as mandarin, accentuating some notes and diminishing others. The Eau de Toilette is not a simple olfactory variation or dilution of the Eau de Parfum, as it is based on another formula altogether. Women must be able to wear it on a daily basis, as it is more of an individual indulgence. It is not an intimately personal fragrance either, but rather a form of daytime fashion,” said Mr. Demachy. “For the Dahlia Noir Eau de Toilette, we diminished the musks and even softened the floral notes, particularly the rose, in order to make it lighter. We downplayed the powdery opulence of the Eau de Parfum and focused the formula on a rose essence, rather than on rose absolute, to bring out the ‘rose petal’ notes.” Notes: Pink pepper, mandarin, cedrat, rose, peach, cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla and amber Price: 1.7 oz., $67.00; 2.5 oz., $79.00 MARCH 2012 /

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Notes From The Perfumers JUDITH LEIBER AMETHYST Perfumer: Ilias Ermenidis, Firmenich This is the fourth fragrance from the house of Judith Leiber and the third one from the collection inspired by their streamline clutch design. “I was thrilled to add to the high-end collection of fragrances. Like the others, the name Amethyst was named after the mineral that is often used in jewelry of this brand. Therefore, the magnificent jewel became my inspiration,” said Mr. Ermenidis. “I wanted Amethyst to bring a fresh and sparkling floral fruity composition to the fragrance collection. Just like a Judith Leiber design, Amethyst becomes a must-have ‘object of desire’ for all deserving women.” Notes: Lychee, bergamot, boysenberry, magnolia, gardenia, linden blossom, lily of the valley, creamy woods and amber Price: 1.3 oz., $115.00; 2.5 oz., $175.00

CALVIN KLEIN ETERNITY SUMMER Perfumer: Pascal Gaurin, IFF “We began exploring the theme of sun and water and decided to use living hydroponic technology, including gardenia and white peony along with watery fruits such as Japanese pear and sparkling Sicilian bergamot,” noted Mr. Gaurin. “We want the women who wear ETERNITY summer to experience a lush, fresh fragrance that can be reminiscent of a joyful afternoon in the Hamptons.” Notes: Sunny orange blossom, sparkling Sicilian bergamot, Japanese pear martini accord, hydroponic gardenia, white peony petals, blue hyacinth, white musks, tonka bean and heliotrope Price: 3.4 oz., $58.00

JIMMY CHOO EAU DE TOILETTE Perfumers: Olivier Polge and Veronique Nyberg, IFF “When we think about the Jimmy Choo brand, we have in mind the image of a glamorous woman. She is chic and sexy, exuberant and elegant, intriguing and fascinating,” said Mr. Polge. “For the EDT, we desired to keep the signature of this fascinating femininity and bring more transparency and vibrations to make it more radiant,” Ms. Nyberg added. “This is the Jimmy Choo woman imprint, mischievous and provocative. A beauty both demonic and sparkling.” Notes: Ginger, tea rose, exotic tiger orchid and cedar wood Price: 3.3 oz., $85.00 MARCH 2012 /

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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FALL 2012 (continued from page 25)

LELA ROSE

The beauty look at Lela Rose, created by Tina Turnbow with Stila Cosmetics for Beauty.com, took its inspiration from the grandeur of the Victorian-era. Stila Perfect & Correct Foundation was used to create a pale, natural complexion while a mahogany red lip, from a coat of Stila Long Wear Lip Color in Phenomenal, finished the elegant look.

ALICE + OLIVIA

Models’ nails at alice + olivia were topped with Sephora by OPI Trend Tips in Silver Metallic or Black & Gold Glitter—an easy-to-apply sparkle for the girl on-the-go.

MARA HOFFMAN Jon Gurinsky for Aveda

Capturing a “nomadic, desert-like” look, MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Lottie used variations of golds and bronzes on Models’ cheeks and eyes for a sun-kissed glow, while adding a natural shine to the lips with MAKE UP FOR EVER Glossy Full #10.

BETSEY JOHNSON

Drawing inspiration from the swinging-sixties time of Twiggy, Aveda’s Jon Reyman created two looks for the Models at Betsey Johnson: a sleekstraight style with a middle part and a youthful side braid. Both styles began with Aveda Smooth Infusion Style Prep Smoother and were finished with Aveda Control Force Firm Hold Hair Spray.

Jon Gurinsky for Aveda

RICHARD CHAI

For a stylized take on a tousled “removing a sweater over one’s head” look, Aveda’s Frank Rizzieri and Kevin Ryan began by sectioning off the Models’ hair from ear to ear at the flat of the crown and focused on the top section by using a blow-dryer and Aveda Volumizing Tonic to create lift at the root. Aveda Men PureFormance Grooming Clay and Aveda Air Control Hair Spray were used to add texture which was followed by a dollop of Aveda Brilliant Humectant Pomade. To finish the look, hair was combed back, parted on the left side and then combed forward for a unique and random finish.

ELIE TAHARI

For a watercolor-like effect on the eyes, Romy Soleimani and Stila Cosmetics’ Sarah Lucero on Beauty.com used several variations of bluehued tones to splash over the Models’ eyelids including Stila Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner in Blue Fin or Peacock and Stila Smudge Crayon in Pink Violet.

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FIRST LOOK (continued from page 29)

CHANEL OMBRE ESSENTIELLE Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Rose de Mai $28.50

garden state

These floral-inspired offerings take their cue from spring blooms and bring a burst of sweetness and warmth to the season. Clarins Joli Rouge Lipstick in Poppy Red $24.00

Daisy Marc Jacobs & Daisy Eau So Fresh Petite Flowers On the Go (Daisy Eau So Fresh EDT Flower shown) 20 ml each, April, $59.00 for the set

Stila In the Garden Eye Shadow Palette $39.00

Sephora Collection Double Contouring Cream Blush in No 3 Poppy Pink $14.00

Lush Ro’s Argan Body Conditioner 8.4 oz., $29.95

Sisley Palette Orchidée Highlighting Blush $108.00 A Dozen Roses Electron Eau de Parfum 3.4 oz., $95.00

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FIRST LOOK Dior Vernis Scented Lacquer in Waterlily #504 $23.00

soft glow

Bobbi Brown Sparkle Eye Shadow in Ballet $28.00

Stila Smudge Crayon Waterproof Primer + Shadow + Liner in Pink Violet $22.00

Delicate shades and scents begin to grace the shelves as winter draws to a close.

CHANEL CHANCE EAU TENDRE Body Moisture 6.8 oz., $50.00 Estée Lauder Pure Color Gloss in Shimmering Mirage $22.50

TOCCA Violette Eau de Parfum 50 ml, $68.00

Clé de Peau Beauté UV Protection Cream SPF50 50 ml, $120.00

Benefit Hello Flawless Oxygen Wow Brightening Makeup $34.00

PixiGlow Magic Tink Tint in Happy Thoughts Pink $16.00

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CounterIntelligence (continued from page 30)

Customers can play with products at the installation.

Product displays are highlighted on illuminated showcases. Customers have consultations and learn about new product launches.

lighting with specific color “are bright but still easy on the eyes,” he said. A new mirror internally illuminates the showcases in the retail area. The units are flexible and can be transformed to a different space configuration to accommodate new launches or for displays and consultations. The modern, dedicated white crystal glass consultation table has a high-polished wrap-around band. Clarins’ customers can easily navigate the installation’s larger pathways and angled fixture units. “Hygiene areas at each unit help the Beauty Consultants stay with the customer,” he continued. “Our Beauty Consultants are amazing. They will quickly sit a customer from any aisle and will work their magic. And the additional hygiene areas offer an opportunity for the customer to touch, play and stay— more browsibility.” BF

Chairs are placed throughout the installation for customers.

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A Beautiful Mind (continued from page 32)

Gurwitch Products’ Bonnie Beer with Shiseido’s Jadjia Tirsch and Elena Stella-McElrath

Elizabeth Arden’s Francine Gingras with PCPC’s Mark Pollak and The Fashion Group’s Margaret Hayes

Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro, Givaudan’s Yara Karmiloff and Calice Becker with Arcade’s David Teets

Arcade’s Diane Crecca and Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates with Judy Policastro

Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline with Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria

Ms. Gingras with PCPC’s Lezlee Westine and Mary Foster

Elizabeth Arden’s Tamara Steele and Mr. Spiro

Ms. Westine, Ms. Belasco and Ms. Manheimer

TPR Holdings’ Nicholas Ratut with Eric Horowitz of Sue Devitt Beauty

A poignant moment in the evening’s program was the introduction of Actress Dendrie Taylor who spoke movingly of her own son’s battle with OCD. She shared how hard it was to see “someone you love feel such pain.” Dana Tyler, Co-Anchor, CBS 2 News, introduced the presenters of Beyond Beauty’s honorees for 2012. Elizabeth Arden’s Executive Vice President, Art Spiro, gave the first award to Jill Belasco, CEO at The Maesa Group. In her acceptance, Ms. Belasco maintained that “Beyond Beauty is about family.” She praised the work Ms. Marshall has done in her son’s name. Recalling her own mother’s advice to “care for others,” Ms. Belasco said her sisters and brothers continue that tradition as well as the next generation in her family. Liz Kaplow, President and CEO of Kaplow, received her award from Carlotta Jacobson, President of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW). Ms. Kaplow declared that she had little understanding of OCD and the gravity of this illness before the Beyond Beauty benefit. Following her own belief in the power of storytelling, she credits the Beyond Beauty event with “getting people to have an emotional connection to this disease.” She urged all those at the dinner to “spread Linda’s message.” Nancy Berger-Cardone, Vice President and Publisher of Marie Claire, presented the third award to Caroline PieperVogt, President of Scent Marketing Institute. Ms. Pieper-Vogt praised Ms. Marshall as “Pouring her heart and soul into driving awareness and funds for OCD research.” Recalling the loss of her husband in 2010, she “realized the true generosity, kindness and support of the beauty industry.” She said, “Beyond beauty, there is hope that tomorrow we will find a cure for OCD.” The evening’s program ended with a performance by Pianist and Vocalist Henry Butler. Although blind from birth, Mr. Butler is considered by many to be the premier exponent of New Orleans jazz and its blues piano tradition. BF MARCH 2012 /

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RUBIN DISCUSSES THE STRENGTHS AND FUTURE OF ULTA AT CEW (continued from page 34)

Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca with Janet Taake of ULTA

Unilever’s Kees Kruythoff, Gina Boswell and Kathy O’Brien

ULTA’s Dennis Mullahy with P&G’s Linda Briscoe and Dominick Gigante with Tom Vince of P&G

Philosophy’s Liz Garrett with Coty’s Matt Lucas and Ms. Halfacre

Beiersdorf’s Catherine Lair and Ellen Finn with Ms. McNeill

AHAVA’s Elana Drell Szyfer Elizabeth Arden’s Laurie Dowley with Claudia Poc- with Ellen Friedman of RPG cia of Gurwitch Products

Shiseido’s Christina Iwasko, Rita Mangan and Gisela Ballard

Maybelline New York’s Kimia Ansari and Oleg Zeylikovich

Cosmolab’s Holli Montgomery and Debra McDonough (r.) with Perfumania’s Gail Gordon and Cynthia Aherne of Berglass Associates

sions that may not be financially beneficial in the immediate future, but in the long-term will position us well.” He continued, “We’re aggressive, and we embody hardy Midwestern work values—we’re straight-talkers, we have high demands and high integrity.” Future initiatives for the retailer include store expansion. ULTA prepares to increase its doors to total over 1,000 stores in the next few years—adding 15-20% new square footage each year. In addition to adding more locations, increasing product selection is also crucial to growth. “Our customer has come to expect newness. Whether it’s a new brand, a new product within an existing brand or a new salon service, newness is the engine for growth.” ULTA also sets out to enhance its focus on the digital sphere. As a strong brick-and-mortar retailer, Mr. Rubin believes that all distribution channels are equally relevant and provide strong opportunities. “Digital is just another means to reach the consumer. Successful retailers will find a way to integrate channels because that customer is going to choose for herself how she wants to shop—and it will vary day to day. Integrating brick-and-mortar stores with e-commerce and m-commerce is where success will come into play,” said Mr. Rubin. “The digital arena for ULTA right now is small, but growing quickly and is a significant focus for us.” Translating ULTA’s strong focus of the customer into the digital realm is a task that Mr. Rubin is comfortable with tackling. “Digital allows the brand to be brought to life. We have to ensure that the experience she has manifests itself digitally as well as it does in-store. When you look at the digital arena, it is far more threatening to other industries,” he said, making reference to his experience in the office supplies sector, where lowest price rules. “In the beauty business, the experiential nature is so critical that the digital arena is more of our friend than a threat. Our success will be determined by how all of our channels are integrated to be customer-focused.” Ultimately for Mr. Rubin the bottom line is always about the consumer. “Our products and services provide an experience that is so much more than transactional—we’re looking to build longstanding relationships with our brands, and clearly, longstanding relationships with our customers.” Conair’s Courtney Sheahan and Ron Diamond (r.) with Jessica Stacey of Sephora

Beiersdorf’s Bill Graham and Scott Beattie of Elizabeth Arden

CEW’s Lisa Klein with Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Ms. Jacobson

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NOTES FROM PARIS (continued from page 39)

Mr. Cresp, a knighted Perfumer from Firmenich, had this to say, “It gives me great pleasure that our profession is evolving and that Perfumers are gaining recognition as artists and not as technicians. Never before could a Perfumer dream of receiving such a beautiful distinction.” Armand de Villoutreys, Firmenich’s President of the Perfumery Division, added, “This honor truly reflects Olivier’s talent and the impact of his olfactive vision on

the global perfumery market. At Firmenich, we have always striven to protect and nourish the valor of each Perfumer’s creativity.” Ms. Caron, knighted Perfumer from Takasago, said, “Receiving this distinction was a great honor for me as well as a moving surprise. I am a Perfumer that stays in the shadows, perhaps, a ‘Shadow Rose’ similar to the name of one of my favorite creations, ‘Ombre Rose.’

Takasago’s Francis Kurkdjian and Cosmetics News’ Sabine de Seze join Firmenich’s Armand de Villoutreys, Mr. Roucel, Mr. Saint Yves and Annick Le Guérer

Takasago’s Luc Malfait with Mr. Kurkdjian and Mr. Saint Yves

Mr. Rivoire, Givaudan’s Calice Becker and Gilles Andrier

Mr. Ropion (r.) with Philippe Masse of Prodarom

Michael Missoffee with Jean de Mouy

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NOTES FROM PARIS

IFF’s Christophe Loiseau with Mr. Ropion

Ms. Andrier with her two daughters, Louise and Iris

I have always preferred to let my perfumes speak for me.” Marie Lise Jonak, Takasago’s Senior Vice President Sales & Creation Director, added, “It’s a decisive step for our industry that the French Ministry of Culture and Communication has officially recognized perfumery as an art. With Françoise’s support and inspiration, Takasago will continue to enhance its contributions to creating a sweeter-smelling world.”

Dr. Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise, added, “Maurice inspires us all to challenge ourselves every day. With his support, we at Symrise hope to create many more captivating fragrances that make the lives of people more pleasant.” Mr. Ropion, knighted Perfumer of IFF, said, “The awarding of this honor to Perfumers is a great recognition of what perfumery really is: an art, which brings magic to consumers everywhere, every day. A Perfumer and his art are the sum of the encounters he’s had throughout his career, and this honor is also a tribute to all the people I’ve met who have inspired my creations.” Xavier Renard, IFF’s Vice President, Regional General Manager, Fine Fragrances & Beauty Care EAME, added, “This honor speaks to the art of perfumery, and recognizes the immense and unique talent and creativity necessary to provide beautiful scents to women and men throughout the world. Dominique has made a tremendous difference in the world of fragrance creation in the 30-year career which has brought him to mastering the art of perfumery.”

Jean-Marie MartinHattemberg, perfume bottle collector, at the exhibit at the Ministry

Perfume exhibit in historic Valois Colonnade Gallery of the Ministry of Art and Communication at the Palais Royale

Mr. Roucel, knighted Perfumer of Symrise, said “I feel very proud to have been made part of the order for my work as a Perfumer. It’s always a challenge to express your individualism and at the same time meet the expectations of your customer and to give the consumer what they desire.” MARCH 2012 /

BF / B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

ESTÉE LAUDER’S BLOGGER VOICE

VMV HYPOALLERGENICS BUILDS BASE IN US

(continued from page 31)

(continued from page 35)

Ms. Schuman shares her beauty and fashion tips with her followers.

Discovering other Estée Lauder products she liked, Ms. Schuman “organically began a conversation with Estée Lauder on how we could work together. Our brand has always been about lifestyle,” Ms. Schachner affirmed, “and Emily’s blog is a modern look at lifestyle with a clear voice and a strong following. This partnership merges her followers with Estée Lauder’s.” Ms. Schachner explained that Estée Lauder is communicating with the sales field about its partnership with Ms. Schuman, “and they are very excited about it. Emily will be doing very select in-store PAs. Esteelauder.com will be the hub of Emily’s weekly postings,” she revealed. There will also be videos and archives of her postings. In a special section called “Emily’s Picks,” she will choose her favorites from the brand. Ms. Schachner noted that Ms. Schuman’s partnership with Estée Lauder is a multi-platform approach. There will be special content for Facebook, Twitter and YouTube. “All audiences will be touched by Emily.” The response to Ms. Schuman’s partnership with Estée Lauder has been “fantastic,” she said. “The goal of social media is to listen to our followers and customers to hear what they are saying about us. Emily’s involvement allows us to have a conversation with these women, which is expanding the reach of our brand in a dynamic new way,” she declared. BF MARCH 2012 /

VMV Hypoallergenics ® has its own manufacturing plant in the Philippines where the level of safety and hypoallergenicity is carefully controlled. “Many brands outsource their manufacturing to third-party plants and therefore have less control over what really goes into the formulations and how each batch is mixed or controlled,” Ms. Verallo Rowell explained. “By doing our own manufacturing, we are able to control all steps in the manufacturing—so there’s no ‘lavender lotion’ mistakenly mixed in the same vat as any of our products that could happen if we outsourced manufacturing. This is vital for us to be able to offer our standard of hypoallergenicity.” “Some of our customers who suffer from allergies are desperate to find products they can use. One of our customers wasn’t able to wash her hair for years until she discovered our shampoo. Word of mouth about our products is great, and references to them pop up in CAMP, the Contact Allergen Management Program of the American Contact Dermatitis Society.” Ms. Verallo Rowell shared that VMV Hypoallergenics® is now contacting Doctors in five US markets and giving them samples of the company’s products. They are now offering samples to customers online as well. The first three samples are free, and there is a charge of 75¢ for any additional requests. To attract foot traffic to the New York City store, VMV Hypoallergenics® has created theme-oriented windows with posters of products. There are also press comments and customers’ quotes about the products. To create good will for the brand, Ms. Verallo Rowell has initiated skin cancer screenings at the store. A client base is also developed from the facials that are given at VMV Hypoallergenics®’ store. Ms. Verallo Rowell is now reaching out to the spa market, which she believes is a good fit for the brand’s products. “It’s an option for clients who are allergic to skincare regimens.” She has set up specialized training programs with literature and videos for spas, which are distributed by VMV Hypoallergenics®’ education team. Looking ahead to future expansion, Ms. Verallo Rowell is focused on opening more free-standing stores as “the best way to tell the story of the brand.” They will complement the distribution to spas and Dermatologists. The new VMV Hypoallergenics®’ Web site, vmvhypoallergenics.com, launched last September. A Skintelligencenter (skintelligencenter.com) has been added to the site. “We’ve really seen sales grow not only with returning customers but new purchasers as well in the US.” New products just added to the VMV Hypoallergenics® line are Red Better: Flare-Up Balm, Red Better: Spot Corrector and Essence: Clark Wash. BF

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totalbeauty LIVE Launches

SOUTH FLORIDA SCENE (continued from page 37)

(continued from page 28

that consumers do not have a way to shop across channels. The challenge is how to harness the power of data. “With thousands of new products entering the beauty market each year, consumers are looking for ways to try new products to find out what will work for them.” “Through our research,” Mr. Kovacoglu informed, “we’ve learned that women spend more than 20 minutes researching online for their shopping trips. Our community has become a great sharing space, and we wanted to provide a better way for consumers to engage directly with brands. Total Beauty LIVE will be the first platform that blends product sampling with social interactive media and provides high-touch product engagement for both consumers and brands alike.” At the debut of Total Beauty LIVE, a panel of experts discussed “Insights and Predictions on Women’s Buying Behavior.” The panel consisted of Jonny Bauer, Head of Strategy, Droga5; Tonie Shin, Vice President Marketing, NYX Cosmetics; Erica Rubach, Director of Strategic Marketing and Social Media, NBC Universal and Danielle Cherry, Vice President, Human Experience Strategist, StarcomMediaVest Group. The panel was moderated by Meghan Rabbitt, Executive Editor at totalbeauty.com. According to Ms. Cherry, in this new culture, “Opinion can make or break brands. Brands fear criticism, but they should be confident that friends will come to their defense.” Mr. Bauer advises brands to be “truthful, transparent and authentic.” Ms. Rubach noted that “sometimes there is a gap between what the brand believes and what consumers are really saying.” Mr. Bauer believes it is wise to “create a relationship with the most influential bloggers.” The panelists agreed that the message to consumers has to be consistent across all channels. For example, in sampling, the consumer needs to see the same message across all units. It is important that beauty products be surrounded with experience that will make sense to the consumer. Mr. Bauer asserted that “technology is never an answer in and of itself. It’s necessary to take a step back and understand the brand’s credible values and then find the tool that is right for the brand.” Ms. Rubach added that brands must make sure to communicate very clearly about driving consumers to the right platform. BF

Recently, they had one of their facial events where Aesthetician Lourdes Garcia provided one-hour facials and consultations with customers. “Being able to sit down with the customer in a private area to discuss their skin concerns, and to have the time to explain and demonstrate how to use the proper products for them, is really an outstanding way to experience La Mer,” she said. These facials are complimentary with purchase.

The La Mer counter at Bloomingdale’s in Boca Raton

La Mer’s Maria Mastrangelo with a customer

For those on the go, La Mer also offers 15-minute minifacials at the counter. “We have several popular minitreatments,” explained Beauty Advisor Maria Mastrangelo. “‘Where Miracles Begin’ has the customer experience four different textures of our moisturizers. They get to feel which one suits them best, and we demonstrate the proper pre-application technique of warming the moisturizer in your hands first.” Other treatment favorites are the ‘Hand and Arm Indulgence’ and ‘The Eye Focus.’ BF

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