BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
®
DECEMBER 2012
Inspired by timeless Hollywood glamour and fronted by a modern icon – Blake Lively –
Gucci Première is an invitation to embrace one’s own red carpet moment.
www.robertocavalli.com
THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR HER
DECEMBER 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 12
BEAUTY
BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
®
FASHION
®
DECEMBER 2012
On the cover:
Gucci Première is a sophisticated wood and musk sensation, and the design is a testimony to the glitz of the movie opening, the glamour of the Oscar, and the fragrant culmination of all forms of success. Gucci Première celebrates the star in every woman.
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AT-COUNTER 20
A Walk On The Line Side . . . With AHAVA Branching With Elana Drell Szyfer And Michele Forrest In Metro New York
27
CounterCulture Christine Duellman
THEBEAUTYBIZ 8
Beauty Flash
16
Industry Ear
22
Musmanno Debuts At The Fragrance Foundation
25
EC Scott Group Fall And Holiday Training Conference
31
State Of The US Fragrance Market
36
Bulgaria’s Beautiful Bounty
40
Beauty Bazaar Lands In Liverpool!
20
FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS 42
Impressions From Germany -Heide Kuhn-Winkler
22 © 2012 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
Inspired by timeless Hollywood glamour and fronted by a modern icon – Blake Lively –
Gucci Première is an invitation to embrace one’s own red carpet moment.
© DONNA KARAN COSMETICS
DONNAKARAN.COM
DECEMBER 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 12
BEAUTY FASHION
®
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 43
Spotlight On Dallas Beauty -Normita Joven
44
Capital Chic -Bernadette Lacy
31
THEPARTYSCENE 19
On The Avenue
33
Girl’s Night Out
38
CEW Achievers’ Aspirations Are Inspirations
THELATESTLAUNCHES 23
P&G’s Problem Solvers
24
CHANEL’s News At-Counter
27
Guessing Game
29
Eyes Only
30
Fashion Meets Fragrance
32
Night Work
34
CoverGirl’s New Year Makeup Statement
35
The Fragrance Bar
37
Dior’s Beauty Care From The Neck Up
33
EVERYMONTH 6
Editorial
14
Calendar
46
ComingUp
38
BEAUTY FASHION (ISSN00057487) is published monthly by Beauty Fashion 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A. (212) 840-8800. Fax: (212) 840-7246. Subscription: Domestic $25.00 a year. Foreign: Canada and Mexico $50.00: Air Mail-Europe and all other countries $175.00. Single copy price: $5.00 except directory issues which are $10.00. Periodical postage paid at New York and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address change to Beauty Fashion 16 East 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose.
EDiTORiAL BEAUTY BIZ UPTICK PROMISING FOR 4TH QUARTER The recent Fragrance Foundation’s State of the Industry event—the first held during the administration of newly-elected President Elizabeth Musmanno—was about the most positive we have heard in years. The rebound in the housing sector and the relief to see the end of what seemed to be the world’s longest presidential campaign may send positive signals to the beauty industry. Even factoring in the downward pressure of Hurricane Sandy, the prognosticators make us feel better than we have in recent memory. I, for one, always focus on consumer confidence, and the most recent retail numbers—save JCPenney—were good enough to keep a hopeful frame of mind about the holiday season posting betterthan-expected numbers. Of course, some things never change, and no doubt we will be at the mercy of lastminute shoppers going down to the wire. The buzz I am hearing of late is “mixed signals,” but all told, with launches at a fever pitch and in-store activity keeping pace, I am hopeful this holiday season will be the best we have seen in recent years. My bets are on Gaga, Taylor, Justin . . . to push us over the top, while hoping the slew of the neoclassics will continue the momentum. However, we in the cosmetic industry are holding our collective breath during the ongoing “fiscal cliff” drama. Keep both hands and feet crossed. Happy Holidays.
George Ledes President and CEO
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THEBEAUTYBIZ HOLIDAY WINDOWS LIGHT UP AT NEW YORK CITY’S RETAILERS Macy’s
Photos by Kent Miller Studios
Macy’s “The Magic of Christmas” expresses the spirit of the holiday season.
T
he “Magic of Christmas” windows at Macy’s/Herald Square were unveiled with a salute to Yes, Virginia, the Musical. Taylor Richardson, star of “Annie,” made an appearance as the eight-year-old Virginia. The Essential Voices USA, under the direction of Judith Clurman, provided an added dose of holiday cheer. The grand finale was ignited by Elf star Wayne Knight, who was accompanied by Aaron Juarez, a very special Make-A-Wish Kid from Arizona who served as a special decorating assistant for this year’s windows. “Through the years, Macy’s has tested the boundaries of the imagination, interpreting the magic of the holiday season in many forms—from a journey in outer space, to a Steampunk fantasy, to the thrill of a roller-coaster ride,” explained Paul Olszewski, Director of Windows and Visual Marketing at Macy’s Inc. “This year, we wanted to
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celebrate our own city and what a magical place it is during the holidays. Though the windows are traditional in style, I still was able to incorporate my own unique twists and technological elements. Best of all, we are once again celebrating the Make-a-Wish Foundation and all the wonderful work they do making wishes come true for children all year long.”
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HOLIDAY WINDOWS LIGHT UP AT NEW YORK CITY’S RETAILERS Lord & Taylor
Lord & Taylor features Santa on his global holiday.
Megan Hilty with Hudson Bay Company’s Liz Rodbell
The retailer’s 75th annual holiday windows were unveiled by Lord & Taylor at its flagship Manhattan store. Megan Hilty, star of NBC’s Smash, performed two traditional holiday songs, followed by an in-store appearance where she met with customers and signed copies of “The Music of Smash” CD. The Young People’s Chorus of New York City performed traditional holiday songs. This year’s Lord & Taylor holiday windows share the story of Santa Claus on his day off, traveling around the world to discover global holiday traditions. The windows are inspired by picturesque locations during the holidays and the customs celebrated among friends and family worldwide. “The annual holiday windows are our gift to New York City, and I’m excited to share this special experience with our customers,” declared Bonnie Brooks, President of Hudson’s Bay Company. “This year’s windows celebrate special holiday tradi(Continued on page 45) tions from around the world.” DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
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IVANKA TRUMP IS A TRADEMARK AND/OR REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF IVANKA TRUMP MARKS LLC.
CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673
Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com
France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Fax: 011-331-45885386
UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk
Australia Andrea Ferrari andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au
Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com
Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065
Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es
REGIONAL COLUMNISTS
Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com
Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net
Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700 bjasnoff@hotmail.com
Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com
Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com
Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157 normita.beautyfashion@gmail.com
Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187 bernie368@gmail.com
Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com
Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com
Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999 lynndludlam@aol.com
Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com
San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 raphaellabrescia@msn.com
South Florida Kay Renz kayrenzpr@aol.com
BEAUTY FASHION
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PRESIDENT AND CEO
GEORGE LEDES
gledes@beautyfashion.com EDITOR
ADELAIDE P. FARAH
DIRECTORY EDITOR
afarah@beautyfashion.com
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
DIANE ROOT GEOFF WEISS
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
DEBRA DAVIS
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
HOWARD BIEGEL
hbiegel@beautyfashion.com
JOHN G. LEDES JAMES MCLERNON
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR EMERITUS ART DIRECTOR
gweiss@cosmeticworld.com
jmclernon@beautyfashion.com
PHOTOGRAPHER
ddavis@beautyfashion.com
ERIC MICHELSON
EXECUTIVE OFFICE 16 E. 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 Telephone: 212-840-8800 Fax: 212-840-7246
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BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro
(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)
Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show
ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available * Phone numbers provided are for further information.
FEBRUARY 6 - 7
APRIL 23 - 24
FEBRUARY 24 - 27
MAY 5 - 6
PCD (Packaging of Perfumes, Cosmetics & Design) 2013 Espace Champerret • Paris France (T) www.pcd-congress.com Beauty & Wellness Exchange Ritz-Carlton • Half Moon Bay CA (T) (203) 202-2576 www.exchangeevents.com/beauty
FEBRUARY 25 - 27
DECEMBER 1
CIBS Holiday Dinner/Dance 7:00 PM (R) (TA) www.cibsonline.com
DECEMBER 7
Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting The Breakers • Palm Beach FL (M) (202) 331-1770 www.personalcarecouncil.org
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty of Giving Luncheon Waldorf-Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
MARCH 2 - 3
DECEMBER 12
MARCH 6
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM (M) www.cibsonline.com
2013 JANUARY 28 - 29
Elements Showcase Skylight West • NYC (T) www.elements-showcase.com
FEBRUARY 5
Cosmetic Executive Women Hot Off the Press: Trend Spotting Harmonie Club • NYC Members Only (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
The Makeup Show LA California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Insiders’ Choice Awards Product Demo Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM Members Only (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
The Makeup Show NYC Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com
MAY 12 - 16
TFWA Asia Pacific Suntec International Exhibition & Convention Centre • Singapore (T)
MAY 15 - 16
Luxe Pack New York Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (212) 274-8508 www.luxepack.com
MAY 15
Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management Capstone Presentations & Graduation Reception (Class of 2013) FIT • NYC 5:00 PM Open to the Public (TA) (212) 217-4319 cfmmrsvp@fitnyc.edu
JUNE 9 - 10
The Makeup Show Chicago Venue One • Chicago IL (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com
JUNE 18 - 20
MARCH 8 - 11
HBA Global Expo & Conference Javits Center • NYC (T) (609) 759-7603 www.hbaexpo.com
Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com
MARCH 15 - 17
JULY 14 - 16
Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com
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Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai International Convention Center Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com
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Cosmoprof North America Mandalay Bay Convention Center Las Vegas NV (T) www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
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SEPHORA.COM
CONGRATULATIONS SEPHORA CELEBRATES THE WINNERS OF THE 2012 CEW ACHIEVER AWARD
THEBEAUTYBIZ
Marc Rey has been appointed President, Coty Prestige U.S. and Regional Vice President, Coty Prestige, North America effective January 2, 2013. Mr. Rey’s key responsibilities will be the current U.S. Coty Prestige portfolio, Coty Prestige Canada, Marc Rey philosophy and Sephora key accounts for the Americas. He will report to Jean Mortier, President, Coty Prestige, and will be located in New York. “We are thrilled that Marc is joining the Coty family,” said Michele Scannavini, CEO, Coty Inc. “Marc’s deep expertise within the beauty industry, his energetic, entrepreneurial approach to the business and his impeccable track record make us confident that he will lead our prestige business in North America to new heights.” Mr. Rey succeeds Bob Cankes, who will retire in the second half of this fiscal year after 14 years with Coty.
Petra Nemcova
Clinique is spreading smiles across the globe by reinforcing its longstanding commitment to children and education. The brand announced a multiyear partnership with Happy Hearts Fund, an international charity founded and led by Petra Nemcova, to help build and rebuild schools in areas affected by natural disasters. A limited-edition 30-ml Happy Heart fragrance for $37.00 launches this month from Clinique. A contribution of $10.00 from each sale will go directly to Happy Hearts Fund. L’Oréal signed an agreement with Castanea Partners to acquire Urban Decay. It was founded in 1996 by Wende Zomnir and is based on the concept of “beauty with an edge.” “Urban Decay will beautifully complement L’Oréal Luxe’s portfolio of iconic brands,” noted Nicolas Hieronimus, President of L’Oréal Luxe. DEC EMB E R 2 0 1 2 /
Horst Rechelbacher is expanding Intelligent Nutrients into retail shops with the first flagship store opening in the Mall of America. It will bring 100% organic hair and beauty products annually to the mall’s 40 million visitors. A New York City store is slated for early next year. Rhona Stokols has been named Vice President Fine Fragrance Sales for Symrise North America. In her new role, Ms. Stokols will be responsible for optimizing Symrise’s unique range of offerings within the Scent & Care division, as well as creating exceptional and distinctive brand solutions for the division’s clients. She will Rhona Stokols report to Béatrice Mouleyre, Senior Vice President Global Fine Fragrance at Symrise AG. L’Oréal has opened its largest factory in the world located at the Jababeka Industrial Estate, in West Java, Indonesia. The 6,000 m2 factory will serve as the production hub for the South-East Asian region. “Building our largest factory in Indonesia once again demonstrates our dedication to providing Indonesians and the markets in the ASEAN region products with superior quality and value,” stated Jean-Philippe Blanpain, L’Oréal’s Executive Vice President of Operations. Rimmel London, in partnership with Kate Moss, has announced the launch of a limited-edition Kate Moss Lasting Finish Lipstick shade, “Kiss of Life,” available in M a rch 2 0 1 3 t o s u p p o r t DKMS, the world’s largest bone-marrow donor center. “I deeply thank Kate and RimDKMS’ Katharina Harf with Rimmel London’s Vice President mel for their tremendous supof Marketing, Laura Weinstein port. This campaign will create more awareness for the need of bone-marrow donors,” declared Katharina Harf, Co-Founder of DKMS Americas, whose own mother died of blood cancer. 16
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
INDUSTRY EAR
“ Th a n k s t o t h e acquisition of Urban Decay, the Group will strengthen its position in two very dynamic distribution channels in the USA, i.e., assisted self-service and e-commerce,” stated Frédéric Rozé, CEO of L’Oréal USA. In the Urban Decay Glide-On Eye Pencils US, Urban Decay will report to Carol Hamilton, President of L’Oréal Luxe USA.
At Dermaceutical Laboratories, we create partnerships with our clients which extend beyond quality products and customer service. We ensure up-to-date knowledge about your brand’s ever-changing needs. This enables us to create custom tailored solutions and provide you with ground-breaking technologies and innovations.
30-32 Henry STreeT. TeTerboro, nJ 07608 USA WWW.DermAceUTicALLAbS.com TeL: 201.288.9477 e: inFo@DermAceUTicALLAbS.com www.de r mace uticall abs.com
INDUSTRY EAR The NPD Group reports that overall gift set sales within prestige department stores year-to-date (January to October 2012), posted a 16% increase in dollar sales versus the same time last year. The $871 million beauty gift set industry includes women’s and men’s fragrance, as well as skincare and makeup gift sets. Fragrance sets continue to be the “go-to” gift set for the holiday season and represent over one-third (34%) of total prestige fragrance sales annually. The category was strongly driven by men’s fragrance gift sets (+14%), double the dollar growth of women’s gift sets (+7%) during the year-to-date 2012.
Club and Resort in Newport Beach, California. The forum is beneficial in helping beauty entrepreneurs better manage the complex product regulations the industry faces.
C V S / p h a r m a cy has launched Nail HQ™, special instore kiosks that showcase the hottest nail trends. Available in more than 2,000 CVS/ pharmacy locations, the Nail HQ™ provides easy access to CVS/pharmacy’s Nail HQ™ in-store kiosk nail innovations, including drugstore firsts like at-home gel kits and ontrend shades from former salon exclusive essie. It will also debut new products from SensatioNail, Sally Hansen and the 32-SKU Nail Lacquer collection CVS/pharmacy has developed in partnership with Salma Hayek.
International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) reported revenue for the third quarter 2012 of $709 million, a decrease of 1% from $713.8 million in the third quarter of 2011. Excluding the impact of foreign currency, local currency sales increased 5%. “Continuing the trends we saw in the second quarter, both our Flavors and Fragrance Compounds businesses delivered solid top-line growth and margin recovery this quarter, reflecting the strength, stability and diversity of our business, even with ongoing economic uncertainty in many parts of the world,” stated Doug Tough, Chairman and CEO of IFF.
The Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) will host its annual Cosmetic Technical Regulatory Forum on February 14-15 at the Balboa Bay
Marie Claire’s Editor In Chief Anne Fulenwider has named Alex Gonzalez as Artistic Director and elevated Nina Garcia to Creative Director.
Title
DECEMBER 2012
DECEMBER 2011
STELLAService, an independent provider of customer service ratings for online retailers, has launched STELLA Monthly Benchmarks as a ranking of the best performing online customer-service providers in the nation. It uses an independent, nationwide network of mystery shoppers to evaluate online retailers. The STELLA Monthly Benchmarks (stellaservice.com/benchmarks) will be issued on the third Wednesday of every month.
Symrise AG reported that sales and earnings were up 9% in the first nine months of 2012. Emerging markets accounted for 48% of sales. There was an EBITDA margin of 20% despite persistently high raw material prices and start-up costs for methol production. Earnings per share rose to €1.07.
% of Diff.
YTD 2012
YTD 2011
% of Diff.
Allure
136.15
110.38
23.35
1,396.55
1,179.19
18.43
Cosmopolitan
114.11
123.88
-7.89
1,379.24
1,461.30
-5.62
Elle
214.68
212.98
0.80
2,453.90
2,314.66
6.02
Glamour
156.70
151.26
3.60
1,445.00
1,502.34
-3.82
Harper’s Bazaar
206.39
189.83
8.72
1,838.12
1,655.91
11.00
InStyle
302.68
287.09
5.43
2,684.17
2,544.92
5.47
Lucky
115.10
116.40
-1.12
894.34
1,119.89
-20.14
Marie Claire
136.79
145.74
-6.14
1,598.53
1,428.63
11.89
Vogue
212.62
202.57
4.96
2,601.21
2,509.66
3.65
W
98.42
108.38
-9.19
1,198.92
1,089.20
10.07
Marie Claire Publisher Nancy Berger Cardone, Elle Publisher Kevin O’Malley, and Harper’s Bazaar Publisher Carol Smith were all 2012 recipients of Hearst Magazines Tower Awards, which are based on performance and leadership. Cardone has been recognized each of her three years at MC, for that ad-page “winning streak” (the 2012 differential was +11.89%) that followed her 2001-2007 “streak” at Allure (Condé Nast). Steve Cohn, Editor In Chief, Media Industry Newsletter BF DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
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THEPARTYSCENE
Kiss And Tell
“These symposia will provide a forum for an enlightening and critical exchange of ideas and creative works founded in the research undertaken by the college’s students and faculty,” explained Dr. Mary E. Davis, Dean of the School of Graduate FIT’s Dr. Mary Davis with Deloitte Consulting’s Antoinette Leatherberry Studies. Stephan Kanlian, Chair of the Master of Professional Studies program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management (MPS) introduced the keynote speaker, Antoinette (Tonie) Leatherberry, Principal for Deloitte Consulting LLP. Ms. Leatherberry observed that companies must focus on inclusion in their “behaviors, policies and philosophies” in order for all stakeholders to achieve their full potential.
Cosmopolitan magazine partnered with Maybelline New York and the United Service Organization (USO) to collect and deliver “Kisses for the Troops.” The fourth annual “Cosmo Kisses for the Troops” tent was stationed in New York City’s Father Duffy Square, and consumers stopped by to kiss a postcard, which was ultimately Rose McGowan collected a delivered to the servicemen kiss for the troops. overseas, as well as the more than 10,000 troops who are in the New York City area helping with the post-Hurricane Sandy relief effort.
The Wall Street Journal’s Ellen Byron, Unilever’s Cheryl Wilson, FIT 2012 MPS Alexandra Fritsch-Gil of Bumble and bumble, Nicholas Gavrelis, Vice President, Global Product Development at M·A·C Cosmetics with the UN Global Compact Office’s Ursula Wynhoven Maybelline New York Spokesperson Jessica White (2nd r.) with members of the armed services
For every kiss collected, Cosmopolitan and Maybelline New York will donate $1 to the USO. Actress Rose McGowan kicked off the day by donating the first kiss. Maybelline Spokesperson, Model Jessica White, was also in attendance.
FIT Symposium A symposium on diversity and globalization in the beauty industry was presented by the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)’s School of Graduate Studies. Leaders from top beauty corporations discussed how diversity and globalization are transforming business strategies for companies and consumers. This symposium is one of several to be presented at FIT. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
The panel consisted of Cheryl Wilson, Director, Global Business Development Ethnic Hair Care at Unilever; Nicholas Gavrelis, Vi c e P r e s i d e n t , G l o b a l Ms. Fritsch-Gil and FIT MPS Product Development at 2012 Ildiko Juhasz of LVMH M·A·C Cosmetics; Ursula Fragrance Brands interview The Wynhoven, General Counsel Body Shop’s Mark Davis. at the United Nations Global Compact Office, as well as Alexandra Fritsch-Gil, FIT MPS 2012 student and Marketing Manager, Bumble and bumble. The panel was moderated by The Wall Street Journal’s Ellen Byron. Also included in the program was an interview with Mark Davis, Director, Community Fair Trade at The Body Shop International, who focused on ethical trade and the ways that fair trade practices involve a mutual relationship among consumers, companies and suppliers. BF
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THEPARTYSCENE
on the avenue
AT-COUNTER
AHAVA Branching With Elana Drell Szyfer and Michele Forrest In Metro New York
Beauty Fashion was invited by AHAVA to tour stores in their distribution in the New York Metro area. The AHAVA team of Elana Drell Szyfer, CEO; Michele Forrest, Vice President Sales and Education; and Stephanie Davis Michelman, Vice President of Marketing showcased the different channels of distribution for the brand and how they are executing their strategy for growth. Ms. Drell Szyfer informed that Ms. Forrest joined the AHAVA team in April 2012. “We had worked together at Lancôme where she was Regional Vice President for the central area of the US. After 20 years at Lancôme, she worked with Laura Geller. After a reunion at a Cosmetic Executive Women event, I persuaded Michele to be part of the AHAVA team.” According to Ms. Drell Szyfer, Ms. Michelman is also a former L’Oréal USA executive, working in marketing at Lancôme, ultimately managing their HSN initiative, and then in sales for the Luxury division. Ms. Michelman was then tapped to join AHAVA in August 2012. “When you look at Stephanie’s and Michele’s background, I came as close as possible to a perfect fit,” Ms. Drell Szyfer declared. “Michele has the background that is required in sales, having been trained in one of the Big
Three. They understand the power of the Beauty Advisor and education from the ground up. Her work at Laura Geller helped her understand direct sell and specialty. Stephanie combines her superb experience in marketing at L’Oréal with her understanding of the multichannel distribution, including the specialty environment of Sephora as well as the power of TV. Michele and Stephanie were exactly the two people I was looking for to complete my already wonderful team.” Ms. Michelman disclosed that AHAVA is in a very unique position because it is able to straddle so many channels of distribution. “We are in prestige key accounts and in independents. We can be in stores that elevate our brand and give some differentiation. I love the fact that we can be in a Nordstrom, an ULTA and a Cosbar.” “The consumer is shopping everywhere, she wants to learn and be entertained, and she’s all ages. We must tell our story in many ways at retail. We are in brick-andmortar sites, retail.com sites, social media and our own e-commerce site, which does a fantastic business of telling our story,” she affirmed. AHAVA also partners with beautybar.com, skinstore.com and many other third party .coms.
“Michele has done a wonderful job of making sure that the strategy is congruent with what we are doing in-store and online,” Ms. Michelman continued. “You shop in a different way, but at the same time you want the brand story and the product information to be consistent.”
“We have three priority channels of distribution: department stores, specialty stores and direct-to-consumer, which incorporate our own site, third-party.com sites and TV retailing at HSN. They are all a priority for us,” Ms. Drell Szyfer explained. “Department and specialty stores [provide] imaging and positioning, as well as the opportunity to explain the brand.” Department stores include Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor and Von Maur. “We consider the specialty distribution to be ULTA and Beauty Brands. We are also in a limited number of Blue Mercury doors. Our independent business, our third-party .com retailers, AHAVAUS.com and military channels complete our distribution. We see these channels as complementing each other.” She shares that ULTA represents volume, given its size, rapid distribution plan and the brand’s full-line presentation. “Our direct-to-consumer builds awareness, image and brand storytelling, as well as access.” “When we are on HSN,” Ms. Drell Szyfer noted, “our department store distribution wants to be notified,
Michele Forrest, Catherine Macveagh, Elana Drell Szyfer, Stephanie Michelman and Leslie Derderian DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
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AT-COUNTER
A Walk On The Line Side...With
A Walk On The Line Side...With
AHAVA
because they know there will be a spike in sales. Being a multichannel brand, it is important to notify our sales organization when things are happening in any of the channels. We see interesting synergies in addition to the TV sales peak. The host at HSN explains that ‘AHAVA is found only in the most exclusive department stores and now we bring it to you at HSN.’ We also do special configurations for the HSN customer.” Along with the AHAVA brand, Dead Sea Essentials was conceptualized in the US. The initial products came from Israel, but now about 75% of the line is manufactured in the US. The imported Dead Sea minerals are formulated in the products by AHAVA’s research and development team.
10:15 AM: Lord & Taylor New York City
Étagères provide good visibility for AHAVA’s products.
Lord & Taylor’s Danielle Irwin and Natalia Cherney with Ms. Derderian and Ms. Macveagh Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore (c.) with Ms. Drell Szyfer and Ms. Forrest
“ B ra n d i n g i s key to all points of our distribution,” Ms. Michelman disclosed. “Each retailer looks at branding in very different ways. Some want the brand to stand out, and some want a more uniform look for all of the brands that AHAVA gift sets t h e y c a r r y. I n addition to telling the story in-store, we also use social media in a really big way.” DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Ms. Forrest and Ms. Zinn-Moore (r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Monica Williams
“When Michele and I partner, she has the opportunity to bring several picks of promotions for a store. We can be on an étagère or on an end cap,” shared Ms. Michelman. “We are congratulated by retailers on our use of sleeves to tell the story of AHAVA, the products’ benefits and claims.” (Continued on page 47) 21
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
AT THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION J
ill Belasco, the Chairman of The Fragrance Foundation, hosted a breakfast at the Harvard Club and introduced the organization’s new President, Elizabeth Musmanno, to the Board of Directors and invited guests. Ms. Belasco shared that it was Terry Darland (President of Parfums Christian Dior, NA) who suggested Ms. Musmanno for the position, and the board agreed she was the right person for the role.
Christian Dior Parfums’ Terry Darland, The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno and O The Oprah Magazine’s Patricia Foster
The Fragrance Foundation’s Jill Belasco, Elizabeth Arden’s Jonathon Stella and Aramis Designer Fragrances’ Carol Russo
“Jill was the driving force behind my decision to take on this role,” Ms. Musmanno declared. Then she announced, “I would like, once again, to interview for the job with you.” She invited all those attending the breakfast to be part of the conversation regarding the future hopes and dreams for the Foundation. “The new initiatives of the Foundation will be a team effort and, by virtue of being in this room today, you are on the team.”
She wants a new brand identity to be created for The Fragrance Foundation. “Our Web site will include online magazine-quality content. This cultural fragrance magazine will promote the world of fragrance—the artists who work in the industry—and its innovation.” Ms. Musmanno wants the Web site to “talk to the consumer in a relevant and compelling voice.” The Fragrance Foundation has chosen to work with Alex Wiederin, Founder of Another Magazine with Jefferson Hack in London, who has art-directed luxury fashion campaigns and books. “Working with him,” she noted, “we will publish a book, Scents of Home, to chronicle every aspect of a life well lived by key players in the fragrance industry.” The Fragrance Foundation plans to uplift and recognize the new entrepreneurs and artists in the industry with a Fragrance Indie Award Gala Dinner. Its mission is to support the next generation of new talent in the industry, to provide mentorship and financial assistance. Noting that to educate is one of the mantras of The Fragrance Foundation, Ms. Musmanno will organize “The Foundation Talks,” an annual symposium similar to the TED Talks, that will “bring together thinkers and innova-
Arcade’s Diane Crecca, Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria and Camille McDonald of Bath & Body Works DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
(Continued on page 56)
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
MUSMANNO DEBUTS
THELATESTLAUNCHES
Stress Response There are three main causes of sweat—physical activity/exercise, environmental/heat and stress. Sweat from movement and heat is excreted from the eccrine sweat glands. Stress triggers sweat from both the eccrine and the apocrine glands, which provides more opportunity for bacteria leading to more odor. It is found that women can perspire on average 30 times more than normal when stressed. Procter & Gamble’s Secret ® Clinical Strength Anti-Perspirant/Deodorant Stress Response fights all three causes of sweat. Its patented BCD technology uses odor-neutralizing molecules to trap odor, lock it away and then replace the odor with a fresh scent to keep the body smelling clean and fresh. The formulation utilizes triple-action technology to provide three layers of protection—prescription-strength wetness protection, odor-fighting microcapsules and skinsoothing conditioners. Skin-soothing conditioners, such as dimethicone and petrolatum give an extra level of comfort. Secret®’s two-click applicator is specially designed to ensure the right amount of product is delivered to the underarm with each use. The product in Serene Citrus is priced at about $9.99 for a 1.6-oz. size. It is at food, drug and mass retailers nationwide next month. Secret® Clinical Strength Anti-Perspirant/Deodorant Stress Response is proven to be 4X more effective at preventing stress-induced underarm wetness than a regular anti-perspirant and deodorant.
Intensive Hair Care Antidandruff action, as well as intensive care of dry/damaged hair and scalp, is delivered with Procter & Gamble’s new Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue system. It is purported to leave hair up to 10X stronger in just four washes. Environmental factors and lifestyle habits can increase the risk of hair damage and scalp discomfort in addition to dandruff, which occurs in about 50% of the population. The new Head & Shoulders products nurture scalp and dry/damaged hair. Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue Shampoo keeps hair strong, reducing hair damage up to 70%. Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue Conditioner with Vitamin E contains a high level of moisturizing ingredients to undo damage and improve the hair’s flexibility. Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue regimen provides a protective coating on the hair’s surface that helps prevent further damage, while offering the antidandruff effectiveness of the Head & Shoulders HydraZinc technology that reduces flaking. Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue Shampoo and Conditioner are each presented in a 14.2-oz. bottle, which is priced at about $4.99. They are available next month at food, drug and mass market retailers nationwide. BF The Head & Shoulders Damage Rescue system of Shampoo and Conditioner with Vitamin E
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
PROBLEM SOLVERS
THELATESTLAUNCHES
Sublimage La Crème Yeux
CHANEL Nº 5
The delicate eye area is the focus of CHANEL’s new Sublimage La Crème Yeux Ultimate Regeneration E y e C r e a m . Th i s next-generation product targets the key signs of aging— crow’s feet, dark circles, puffiness, wrin- CHANEL’s Sublimage La Crème Yeux kles and loss of firm- Ultimate Regeneration Eye Cream targets ness—and smoothes the signs of aging. the texture around the eye contour. Sublimage La Crème Yeux Ultimate Regeneration Eye Cream contains an exclusive Eye Complex, the fruit and flower of the Vanilla Plantifolia plant, which feature extraordinary properties. Blended together, they combine to create an active anti-aging Enriched Plantifolia PFA (Polyfractioned Active). This ingredient is created through exclusive patented CHANEL technology. The new formula targets the signs of aging. After four weeks of use, here are the results: visible reduction in eye lines by 78%; firmer eye area by 84%; more even eye contour by 88%; increased hydration by 97%; reduction of dark circles by 66%; and reduction of puffiness by 72%. Percentages are based on an auto-evaluation test conducted by 12 women in France. Sublimage La Crème Yeux Ultimate Regeneration Eye Cream comes in a .5-oz. jar for $225.00.
There are new ways to indulge in Coco Chanel’s iconic fragrance. Nº 5 Eau de Parfum Spray comes in a new, limited-edition 6.8-oz. spray. This new interpretation of the original juice has a heart of M ay r o s e a n d Grasse jasmine, warmed with bourbon vanilla. It is presented in a classic bottle with an emerald-cut, crystal stopper inspired by the Place Vendôme. The fragrance is priced at $205.00. Nº 5 Bath Soap is another way to indulge in the scent. The oversized bath soap, lightly scented with Nº 5, is presented in a coffret with a deluxe limited-edition CHANEL Nº 5 Eau de soap dish. The New Parfum Spray soap comes in a 10.7-oz. size for $75.00. All of the new CHANEL products are available now at select department and specialty stores and at chanel.com.
Les Exclusifs The 13 fragrances of the Les Exclusifs Collection now have a companion. Subtly scented Les Exclusifs Fresh Body Cream flatters any fragrance in the collection, while enveloping the skin with luxury. The cream can be layered for the ultimate Les Exclusifs experience. Presented in a 5-oz. cofCHANEL’s Les Exclusifs Fresh Body Cream provides a luxurious treat. fret, it is priced at $130.00. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
CHANEL’s new, oversized Nº 5 Bath Soap is a luxurious indulgence.
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
NEWS AT-COUNTER
THEBEAUTYBIZ
Fall And Holiday Training Conference
EC
Scott Group’s President and Chief Executive Officer, Mark Scott, recently held a National Sales and Training Conference in Manchester, Vermont, at the Equinox resort bringing together all 60 employees with the goal of sharing ideas and preparing for the Fall and Holiday season. EC Scott Group specializes in bringing prestige brands to independent retailers. “We are first and foremost a sales, service and training company,” Mr. Scott explained. “EC Scott Group delivers comprehensive product training, customer service, and merchandising excellence to the independent retailer, as well as opportunities to all channels of the Military.”
The EC Scott Group’s team (from top left): Travis Lutter, Karissa Bendavid, Khristian Fanning, Kris Sauter, Joy Slomski, Mike Lewicki, Marcia Johnston, Will Rickards, Lynda Lugo, Barb Turner, Shari Chang, Mary Droesch, Jamie Rouselle, Chris Lally, Julie Freeman, Jessica Conway, Katie Caschette, Noke Tongprasert, Andrew Glass, Kathryn Morrill, Joe Huber, Marilyn Thomas, Mark Scott, Tim Greene, Brenda Totherow, Rosario Yannuzzi, Jeff Regensburger, Maritza Botero, Laura Rivera, Suzanne Hann, Diane Streber, Sarah Townsend, Leah Bosch, Katie Forget, Lauren Baker, Sarah Risbridger, Cindy Liebel, Martha Scott, Dara Rintel, Lyndsey Macmillan, Shahin Aslankhani, Leigh Scott and Rachel Cudzilo
EC Scott Group offers a diverse portfolio of color cosmetics, skincare and fragrance to a current customer base of 1,500 accounts. Mr. Scott has challenged the company to identify and add another 1,000 customers by August 2013. “With our research and high touch approach, we are confident that through our prestige multichannel network, we can achieve our goal of 2,500 accounts,” he affirmed. Mr. Scott believes that prestige retailers in small townships offer alternative points of distribution where its consumers are shopping “locally.” Whether it’s high-end beauty stores, prestige pharmacies, apothecaries, perfumeries, grooming stores, salons, college bookstores, or casinos, “we want to bring luxury beauty and fragrance products to their local consumer,” he continued. “Our portfolio of brands is as diverse as the breadth of retailers we service,” he noted. “One thing remains constant: we only represent prestige brands and prestige retailers that understand the selling environment and service required. Our manufacturers appreciate the strategic and targeted approach we bring to them, as we can identify incremental and profitable independent retailers that are appropriate for their brands. “ DEC EMB E R 2 0 1 2 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
EC Scott Group
EC Scott Group Currently the company services beauty retailers, i.e., Cos Bar, Planet Beauty, and Beauty Brands; apothecaries, i.e., Blue Mercury, C.O. Bigelow, and Claret; Perfumeries, i.e., La Petite Perfumery and La Femme Perfumery; pharmacies, i.e., Zitomer’s and Greenwich PharMark Scott macy; fashion stores, i.e., Stanley Korshak and Mitchell’s; specialty stores, i.e., Bergdorf Goodman, Gus Mayer, Henri Bendel and Mitchells; salons and destination resorts, i.e., Adam Broderick and The Breakers; college book stores, i.e., UCLA, Stanford, and USC; men’s grooming stores, i.e., The Grooming Lounge and The Boardroom; and casinos, i.e., MGM, Pechanga and Foxwoods.
focusing on sales, taking replenishment orders and customer service.” Each RAM is partnered with a Regional Sales Director (RSD) to service a specific territory. RSDs are based in all major markets across the country, so EC Scott Group’s customers receive in-store training and merchandising support. In addition, all accounts receive weekly email blasts, monthly printed newsletters, website update announcements, and biannual catalogs that serve as sales and training tools for the retailers.
Ms. Rintel, Ms. Aslankhani, Mr. Huber and Ms. Freeman
USC Bookstore
C.O. Bigelow
Blue Mercury
Mitchell’s
Cos Bar
Bliss’s John Michael Bain, Ms. Chang, Ms. Towsend and Ms. Macmillan
EC Scott Group services its customers in several unique and different ways. “They receive consistent communication from our Regional Account Managers (RAM) who are based in our Sales and Training Center located in Rochester, New York,” Joe Huber, head of Sales explained. “Our RAMs contact their accounts on average once every two weeks, DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Ms. Freeman and Ms. Risbridger
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Ms. Macmillan and Leigh Scott
(Continued on page 50) / B E A U T Y FA S H I O N
THELATESTLAUNCHES
GUESS
G GAME
Girls have been “it” girls for 30 years. Coty Beauty celebrates the glamour of the GUESS Girl with her new, eponymous fragrance. GUESS Girl is a fresh, fruity floral scent that is representative of the sexy showstoppers. “All of us at Coty Beauty were inspired by the third anniversary of GUESS. For our fourth collaboration with the fashion brand, we set out to capture the unapologetic sex appeal of the brand’s stunners,” declared Coty Beauty’s Steve Mormoris, Senior Vice President Global Marketing for Global Beauty. “We are thrilled to introduce consumers to a fragrance that encapsulates the youthful, adventurous spirit of the GUESS brand and GUESS Girls everywhere.” Developed by International Flavors and Fragrances’ Perfumer Laurent Le Guernec, GUESS Girl is an encounter with a born flirt. “I wanted to bring a youthful, flirty and ultra-sexy facet to this GUESS fragrance, inspired by women such as Brigitte Bardot and Marilyn Monroe,” shared Mr. Le Guernec. “I found the acacia flower captured the sultry and sweet attitude of the GUESS Girl I was looking for. This intriguing duality was the foundation for the fragrance. To reinforce the exotic fantasy and sexiness, I blended mimosa with paradise orchid in reference to a California sunset.” GUESS Girl opens on a note of raspberry nectar, melon and bergamot mist. Its middle note of Brazilian paradise orchid, Provence acacia flower and lily dries to a base of Australian sandalwood and Madagascar vanilla. The scent is presented in a shapely glass flacon that suggests its curvy muse. A new, black script logo appears on the bottle introducing GUESS Girl as a love letter to the brand, and a black ribbon knotted around the gold pump suggests a gift from an admirer. It is topped with a flower cap comprised of hard petals encasing soft ribbon to represent the GUESS Girl herself. The soft pink carton is decorated with The spread ad for GUESS Girl, which features Amber Heard a printed fuchsia ribbon that wraps around the package and forms the letter “G.” It also carries GUESS Girl’s new, black script logo. The fragrance comes in a 1-oz. Eau de Toilette for $40.00; 1.7-oz., $52.00; and 3.4-oz., $62.00. They are joined by a 6.7-oz. Body Cream for $28.00. GUESS Girl will be available in February at GUESS retail stores, perfumery chains, department stores and at guess.com. GUESS Girl will be promoted by a campaign helmed by GUESS’ Creative Director, Paul Marciano, and shot by Photographer Ellen Von Unwerth. It stars Amber Heard, who defines the contemporary woman for the new age. Ms. Heard is outfitted in the fashion brand’s formfitting, pink sequin dress accessorized in classic GUESS fashion with a cinched-at-the-waist, crisp white shirt. She strides into a steamy club in Isla Morada, Florida, and turns heads with her sultry, sweet attitude and unabashed sex appeal that her fragrance awakens. “I am very excited to work with GUESS, one of the world’s most iconic, pop-culture brands,” she notes. “GUESS has a way of identifying each woman’s unique appeal, and this fragrance truly captures that. It’s sweet, sexy and totally original.” BF DEC EMB E R 2 0 1 2 /
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g n i s s ue
CHRISTINE DUELLMAN Director of Education Christian Dior Perfumes At Dior, It’s All About The People When Christian Dior launched his first “New Look” collection in 1947, he believed that the people selling his designs were just as important to the brand’s success as the models wearing his gowns and, therefore, spent a great deal of time mentoring his staff. Today, Dior holds the same beliefs, and we center our education philosophy on developing the people behind the counter. When I joined Christian Dior, I was very inspired to learn that our executives Pamela Baxter, Terry Darland and Lisa Hawkins began their careers as Beauty Stylists. Using our leaders as our primary examples, we have since structured our training programs to develop the sales team throughout each step of their careers. Our training seminars have expanded well beyond basic product knowledge. We now give our Beauty Stylists the tools they need to be business- and service-oriented; in turn, they give us valuable insight into the needs and desires of our luxury clients. Last spring, we expanded this philosophy by piloting the Dior Mentoring Program. Each person in the organization, from the executives to the marketing, education and sales teams, were asked to choose a mentee that they could guide into more senior positions as the business continues to grow. As a result, we have gained a loyal team of Beauty Stylists that accept the value of sharing our rich heritage, upholding the brand image and providing the ultimate level of luxury service to our clients. With a team of experts in skincare, makeup artistry and fragrance, we continue to partner with the Dior team in Paris to ensure that every training platform we create is consistent with the worldwide luxury brand message and showcases the “savoir-faire” of Dior products. Investing in our people has really encouraged our Beauty Stylists to manage their own counter with the same attention to detail as our Maison on 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. Christian Dior said, “Real luxury is meaningful only if it has roots in authentic tradition.” At Dior, our luxury training philosophy carries Mr. Dior’s tradition of recognizing our Beauty Stylists as the true face of our brand. They are the key to our success. BF
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AT-COUNTER
AT-COUNTER
CounterCulture
THELATESTLAUNCHES
C
linique’s Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector addresses lines and wrinkles. Now new Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream has patented technology to help repair the visible signs of aging around the entire eye area. “Young skin is strong and resilient. However, as we age, skin loses elasticity, density and essential moisture, making it more difficult to bounce back from facial expressions,” explained Dr. David Orentreich, Clinique’s Guiding Dermatologist. “Repetitive facial movements, such as smiling and squinting, cause skin to constantly fold and crease leading to what is known as a ‘dynamic wrinkle.’ As we continue to age, skin can begin to sag, causing these wrinkles to become even more pronounced.” Clinique always looks for new ways to put its products to the test. In addition to its traditional static lines and wrinkles testing, Clinique looked at how Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream addresses dynamic wrinkles. The “Smile Test” was constructed to examine the reduction of the appearance of “smile lines” around the eye area. These are lines that appear when actively smiling. Panelists were evaluated when actively smiling before using the product and were then instructed to use the product for 12 weeks. After 12 weeks, their “active” smile lines were evaluated again. A noticeable 54% reduction in “active” smile lines around the eye area was noted. Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream repairs UV damage and protects against environmental aggressors. It is formulated with encapsulated micrococcus lysate, an extract of powerful enzymes that come from the organism micrococcus luteus, one of the most UV-resistant organisms known to science. It works over time to gradually help Clinique’s new Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream partners repair the appearance of skin damage resulting with Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector as a dynamic duo from direct UV exposure, the leading cause of to repair the visible signs of aging around the entire eye area. premature aging. Vitamins C and E are added to help fight free radicals from environmental aggressors that prevent future damage. This new, de-aging eye cream improves the appearance of lines and wrinkles and overall texture. A cocktail of purified whey protein, new to Clinique, plus xylinum black tea ferment, chlorella vulgaris, palmitoyl oligopeptide and siegesbeckia orientalis extract work to repair crow’s feet, crepey eyelids and undereye crosshatching within 12 weeks of use. The moisture barrier is strengthened with Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream. Because the skin around the eye is approximately one-tenth the thickness of the skin on the palm and is prone to dryness due to reduced oil glands and external assaults, keeping it moisturized helps to visibly reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles as well as create soft, supple skin. Clinical tests reveal that after 12 weeks, the skin’s barrier strength increases by 72%. The formulation’s results are achieved with a blend of rosemary leaf extract, cucumber/barley/sunflower extract and trehalose. For maximum treatment, Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector can be paired with the new Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle Correcting Eye Cream. The cream comes in a 15-ml size for $43.50, and 30-ml, $63.00. They are available next month at all Clinique counters nationwide and at clinique.com. BF DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
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EYES ONLY
THELATESTLAUNCHES
FRAGRANCE
The DENNIS BASSO fragrance was developed by Mr. Basso in collaboration with The Cloudbreak Group and Firmenich. The scent opens with a top note of Italian bergamot, lemon and crisp apple. Its heart of orange blossom, jasmine sambac and tuberose is based on a note of cedar wood, cashmere woods and white musk.
Dennis Basso
D
ennis Basso, one of America’s premiere celebrity designers, has launched his eponymous fragrance on the QVC television shopping network. Mr. Basso’s designs and silhouettes have been seen on the world’s fashionable and socially influential women. He has also created a major market for faux furs, ready-to-wear and accessories for QVC. He believed the time was right to appeal to women on an entirely new emotional level. “As a Designer, I feel that fragrance is the finishing touch when a woman gets dressed. To be able to create a luxury designer fragrance at QVC was the perfect extension of my fashion collection. When I think of the Basso woman, she understands trends in fashion and beauty,” he noted. “She was waiting for me to present her with a fragrance, and she was hoping I would surprise her with something sensual and unique.” “As for the timing,” he explained, “I waited to develop a fragrance that was a perfect match for me. I did not simply want to put my name on a commercial fragrance. I wanted something I could relate to. I wanted to love it. Part of my success is that I’m totally involved in everything I do,” he declared. “The Perfumers at Firmenich understood that and were able to translate it into the DENNIS BASSO fragrance.” DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Fashion by Dennis Basso
The fragrance is presented in a round glass bottle with a simple signature logo decorated on the front. The flacon has a band of faux fur wrapped around the sides of the circle, providing an elegant adornment. Its faceted crystal cap, in contrast to the circular shape of the bottle, is topped with an engraved silver plaque. The scent’s carton mimics the faux fur band on the bottle and is decorated with an animal print on the sides and top of the box. DENNIS BASSO comes in a 2.5-oz. Eau de Parfum for $69.00. It retails exclusively on QVC. Mr. Basso commented on the challenge of selling a fragrance on television, where the customer does not have the opportunity to smell it. “I think the customer trusts me and understands what I stand for. She respects my opinion and is willing to take a chance on something I believe will make her happy. It’s a trust that I’ve developed over the past 19 years on QVC.” BF
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The DENNIS BASSO fragrance is embellished with a faux fur band. / B E A U T Y FA S H I O N
THELATESTLAUNCHES
FASHION MEETS
T
he Fragrance Foundation presented its annual economic review and forecast during a luncheon at New York City’s Harvard Club. Industry experts were Scott Galloway, Clinical Professor of Marketing at NYU Stern and Founder of L2 Think Tank; Wade Gerten, Chief Executive Officer, of 8thBridge; Carrie Mellage, Director, Consumer Products at Kline & Company; and Andrew Morse, Managing Director, Senior Partner and Board Member of HighTower. Mr. Morse sees a turnaround in consumer confidence in 2012 due to low interest rates and higher housing prices, “which create the feeling of wealth. We are now at a period of expansion.”
Mane’s Westly Morris with Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline
The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno and Jill Belasco (c.) with NYU and L2 Think Tank’s Scott Galloway, 8thBridge’s Wade Gerten and HighTower’s Andrew Morse
Pamela Vaile of Pamela Vaile Associates with Arcade’s Diane Crecca and Larry Berman
Ms. Musmanno and Ms. Belasco (r.) with IFF’s Olivier Delcour and Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates
Ms. Mellage agreed, citing a 6% growth in the fragrance category in 2011 and 4½% to 5% in 2012. “It’s one of the fastest-growing areas in the beauty industry.” She predicts that the holiday season will also have about the same growth or better, with the prestige fragrances having “impressive launches.” She believes that innovative packaging and special events will help drive fragrance purchases. How to sell fragrances online presents a problem, according to Mr. Gerten. Social media, such as Facebook, must make the consumer feel attractive and appear sophisticated as reasons to use fragrance.
SGD’s Shéhérazade Chamlou and Abigail Browarsky (r.) with Coty’s Kevin Migliacci
Cosmopolitan’s Donna Kalajian Lagani, CHANEL’s Ava Huang and GQ’s Karen Dreschler
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Arcade’s Eric Dalbo and Dave Teets (2nd r.) with Robertet’s Pierre Wulff and Jérome Épinette
(Continued on page 53)
THEBEAUTYBIZ
THEBEAUTYBIZ
STATE OF THE US FRAGRANCE MARKET
THELATESTLAUNCHES
NIGHT WORK I
n 2009, Estée Lauder launched Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex. Building on this heritage of skin repair, the brand has launched Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion, a superpotent, fast-penetrating, repair serum. It was formulated to fight against the damaging effects of pollution, specifically ozone (O3) on the skin’s DNA and aging. The serum is formulated with advanced repair technology shown to help significantly inhibit ozone damage after exposure to a high level of ozone. Based on the research that ozone, formed by the interaction of UV light with nitrogen dioxide contained in smoke, car exhausts and fumes, is damaging to skin, Estée Lauder conducted tests with a new methodology designed to simulate ozone levels in urban environments. Carried out in The Estée Lauder Companies’ O3 Chamber, the tests proved that ozone has a profoundly negative impact on skin cells leading to a decrease in natural energy, an increase in free radicals, DNA damage and inflammation. Estée Lauder used this research to show that the eye area skin is five times more porous than facial skin and more prone to damage from ozone and pollution. Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion helps boost skin cells’ natural ability to repair DNA damage in the vulnerable eye area. It contains three powerful, high-perforSuper-potent, fast-penetrating mance technologies. AntiAdvanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion by Estée Lauder pollution technology, DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
The visual promotion for Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion
including encapsulated Alkyl Guanine Transferase (AGT), helps to continuously repair the appearance of damage to the eye area caused by major environmental assaults. Exclusive Chronolux™ Technology helps support the natural synchronization of skin’s repair around the eye area at exactly the right time. A high concentration of soothing anti-irritants plus a proprietary blend of antioxidants and high levels of hyaluronic acid create the optimal environment for the natural protection and repair of the delicate eye area, which helps to reduce the look of dark circles, puffiness and crepiness around the eye. Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion delivers an immediate surge of moisturization, leaving the eye area feeling soothed and refreshed, creating the optimal environment for the skin to repair and stay young and healthy. Potent enough to be used as a stand-alone eye product, the lightweight serum can also be layered with an Estée Lauder eye cream for additional targeted benefits. Recommended for all skin types, new Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion comes in a .5-oz. size for $62.00. It will be at Estée Lauder counters nationwide and at esteelauder.com next month. BF
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Leading ladies in the beauty industry gathered for their seventh Girl’s Night Out at New York City’s Le Colonial to benefit the FIT Jane Scott Scholarship Fund. The beautymakers had enjoyed evenings together for several years, but after the death of Jane Scott, Bloomingdale’s Vice President/Divisional Merchandise Manager for Cosmetics, they decided to meet for a cause.
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Karyn Khoury and Nancy McKay with Elizabeth Arden’s Laurie Dowley
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Thia Breen (2nd r.) with FIT students Candance MacPherson, Tiffany Toro and Madeleine Bustamante
Oscar de la Renta’s Jean Hoehn Zimmerman with Parlux’s Diana Espino and Linda Levy
LVMH’s Pamela Baxter with Gurwitch Products’ Claudia Poccia
Elizabeth Arden’s Liz Falconer, Janet Curmi and Tamara Steele
Ms. McKay (c.) with L’Oréal USA’s Carol Hamilton and Leslie Marino
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Jane Hudis with Cosmopolitan’s Donna Kalajian Lagani
Macy’s Lisa Becker, Nancy Schmidt and Cindy Harper
Bloomingdale’s Michelle Israel with CHANEL’s Joyce Green
Ms. McKay with Fashion Group International’s Margaret Hayes and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore
Gurwitch Products’ Ellen Greenwald, Ms. Hudis and Lidia Latrowski of Graphic Systems Group
Ms. Baxter with Macy’s Muriel Gonzalez
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(Continued on page 56)
THEPARTYSCENE
GIRL’S NIGHT OUT
THELATESTLAUNCHES
THELATESTLAUNCHES
NEW YEAR MAKEUP STATEMENT Quick-And-Easy All-Day Beauty CoverGirl Outlast Stay Fabulous 3 in 1 Foundation creates a smooth, flawless look that lasts all day by combining the essence of a primer, foundation and concealer in one product. The patented formula provides full coverage with a lightweight, blendable application. The foundation sets the look like a primer, corrects imperfections like a concealer, and perfects with a beautiful, matte finish. The shade palette covers light to deep skin tones, and has been revamped with a balance of cool, neutral and warm undertones to meet the shade needs of all women. The foundation includes a broad spectrum SPF 20 sunscreen. Outlast Stay Fabulous 3 in 1 Foundation’s primer has advanced flexi-hold polymer technology that CoverGirl Outlast Stay sets the foundation in place, immoFabulous 3 in 1 Founbilizing other foundation ingredidation’s easy-to-blend ents yet allowing the film to move formulation provides with the face and remain flexible all-day coverage. for a lightweight feel. Its microscopic topography modifiers gently disrupt the surface of the foundation film to diffuse light and create a soft, matte finish. Micro-correctors conceal imperfections as they work to instantly provide coverage and a matte finish by absorbing and removing excess oil and sebum from the skin. The correctors provide opacity, so more product can be spot-applied for added concealment of imperfections. CoverGirl Outlast Stay Fabulous 3 in 1 Foundation comes in 14 shades and is priced at $9.99.
CoverGirl + Olay Concealer Balm delivers a smooth-glide application.
CoverGirl + Olay Concealer Balm comes in six shades and is priced at $8.99.
A New Twist On Balm CoverGirl Jumbo Gloss Balm is presented in an easy-touse twist-up packaging. The non-sticky finish leaves lips sheer and soft. Infused with shea and mango butters, the balm leaves lips soft and nourished. The lip gloss formula delivers sheer colors with a soft shine, ideal for daily use. The balm is presented in an easy-to-use “twist-up” form for quick application. CoverGirl Jumbo Gloss Balm comes in 16 different shades and is priced at $7.49. All of the new CoverGirl products are available next month at mass-market retail outlets nationwide.
2-In-1 Cover-Up CoverGirl + Olay Concealer Balm is a “smooth-glide” application stick designed specifically to fight signs of aging without tugging the skin beneath the eyes. The Olay-infused concealer balm combines skincare and makeup benefits to minimize dark circles, redness and age spots. The “smooth-glide” stick applies concealer beneath the eyes without tugging or stretching the delicate area of skin. Infused with an emollient-rich serum, the balm is specially designed for the sensitive skin in the eye area. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
CoverGirl Jumbo Gloss Balm leaves lips sheer and soft.
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Haute Perfumery The new J’adore L’Absolu, developed by D i o r ’s Pe r f u m e C r e a t o r Fra n ç o i s Demachy, has achieved a unique, floral intensity. Mr. Demachy searched for the perfect ingredients in faraway lands where majestic flowers, including Turkish damascene rose, jasmine sambac and Indian tuberose express their depth and sensuality. These exceptional raw materials were subject to a rigorous extraction technique. Mr. Demachy obtained the absolutes from these florals and used his haute perfumery savoir-faire to achieve the floral bouquet of J’adore L’Absolu is the J’adore L’Absolu. This richly complex result of exceptional and deep composition comes in a raw materials and 2.5-oz. size for $98.00. It is available haute perfumery at Dior counters and at dior.com. savoir-faire.
Fragrance In Motion
Pleats Please is Issey Miyake’s first fragrance inspired by his fashions.
Givaudan’s Master Perfumer Aurélien Guichard developed Pleats Please.
Japanese Designer Issey Miyake is known for his iconic pleats in women’s ready-to-wear fashion. They suggested Mr. Miyake’s first fashion-inspired fragrance, Pleats Please. This fragrance is the Designer’s latest collaboration with Beauté Prestige International, the Paris-based fragrance division of the Shiseido Cosmetics Corporation. The story of Pleats Please began in 1993 with the Designer’s costume designs for a ballet, “The Loss of Small Detail,” commissioned by the Frankfurt Ballet and choreographed by William Forsythe. Mr. Miyake developed costumes that allowed the dancers unrestricted movement and were beautiful enough to fulfill the choreographer’s vision. The pleated costumes ultimately became a line of clothing that was easy to wear and simple to maintain. The iconic pleats have become the essence of Mr. Miyake’s fashions. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
The fashions now have their counterpart in Pleats Please, a fragrance developed by Master Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of Givaudan. The juice opens on a top note of nashi, a hybrid fruit that oscillates between pear and apple. The middle note of peony and sweet pea is based on a drydown of cedar, patchouli and vanilla. The scent is presented in a bottle that interprets the geometric spirit of the Bao Bao Issey Miyake bag. The flacon’s ridges mimic the bag in an interplay of convex and concave panels. Pleats Please’s pink juice is showcased in the bottle topped with a cap in the form of a floral calyx. Pleats Please comes in a 1.6-oz. Eau de Toilette Spray for $66.00, and 3.3 oz., The promotional image for Pleats Please $92.00. They are joined by a Moisturizing Body Lotion in a 5.2-oz. tube for $40.00. The collection is available now exclusively at Nordstrom.
Provocative Perfume A fascinating, entertaining and provocative woman is the inspiration for Mad Madame, a new fragrance from Juliette Has a Gun. Created by Romano Ricci, Mad Madame pays tribute to a woman who dares. Mr. Ricci declared that Mad Madame “has this touch of craziness, which she is happily displaying. Endowed with a sense of provocation, she enjoys being looked at and igniting conversations.” Juliette Has a Gun Mad Madame opens on a top note of green chypre, rose oxide, blackcurrant bud absolute and ambroxan. Its heart of a peony accord, patchouli and tuberose absolute blends to a base of white musk, tolu balm and vanilla absolute. The fragrance comes in a 100-ml size for $135.00, and is now available at fine bouBF Juliette Has a Gun Mad Madame is a tiques nationwide. new creation from Romano Ricci.
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THE FRAGRANCE BAR
THEBEAUTYBIZ
BULGARIA’S
BEAUTIFUL BOUNTY “A rose by any other name would smell as sweet,” said the Bard, especially if the rose in question is Bulgarian. And if said rose is Bulgarian, then the name Stefanov immediately comes to the fore. Dimiter and Metody Stefanov seek to bring the Bulgarian rose industry back to its former position as the world’s leading grower and producer of quality rose oil. With that vision in mind, their company, Intermed (www.intermed-one.com), was born. What’s more, it has bloomed. The Stefanov brothers have made it their lives’ ambition to restore a vertically oriented organic high-quality rose oil product to the Metody Stefanov, Senior Vice President, with his international marketplace. That said, they are Technologist Nelly Kristova stands brother Dimiter, President and CEO of Intermed. not stopping there. They also wish to see their next to a gas chromatograph. business include many of the diverse products unique to Bulgaria’s biodiversity. Having started their company in 2002, soon after the government abandoned it, the industry suffered many of the problems associated with privatization—not the least of which was losing their biggest and only customer, Russia, and dealing with nonexistent systems, i.e., a factory without a single computer of any description. Since then, however, what they now produce in one day is what they once produced in one year. During their most recent harvest, they were processing 150 tons daily—or approximately thirty kilos of rose oil. Rose production is a delicate balance of soil enrichment, plant cultivation, timing and manpower; all part of a unique equation that changes year to year. As Dimiter explained, ”it is always a balance of economic factors, but above all else it is the proper maintenance of the soil, that it be properly cared for, and therefore in a condition to be in top-notch shape year-in and year-out with maximum quality and yield.” What stands out about the Stefanov family is not only Interiors at the Intermed production facility their Western orientation, Exterior views of the Intermed factory in Manolovo but their dogged determination to not only make their company a world leader, but in doing so, to underscore the ancient and robust history of this amazing land. Their Western education and unusual exposure to international markets growing up gave them a vision of what they could bring to their country, and by extension, to all of ours. BF DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
From The Neck Up
L’Or de Vie La Lotion Dior discovered the anti-aging powers of the Château d’Yquem vine 25 years ago. That research led to the L’Or de Vie collection of skincare. Now L’Or de Vie La Lotion has been added to complete this beauty ritual. The L’Or de Vie collection is powered by the sap of the Château d’Yquem vine that is extracted, matured for six months and then put through a purification process to develop an 11-molecule anti-oxidant complex. L’Or de Vie La Lotion not only contains the 11-molecule anti-oxidant complex but also a new ingredient indigenous to Yquem, Botrytis Cinerea. Dior L’Or de Vie La This additional ingredient acts as a Lotion prepares the shield to the skin, infusing it with moiscomplexion for ture while also neutralizing surface maximum absorption of products oxidation. Botrytis Cinerea delivers from the L’Or de Vie glucans to help replump skin cells, as skincare collection. well as purify and rebalance the skin. L’Or de Vie La Lotion opens the skin’s pores to allow all of the products in the L’Or de Vie skincare collection to penetrate deeper into the skin and be more effective. It is priced at $130.00 and is available at dior.com and Dior counters nationwide.
Dior Capture Totale’s New Technology Dior’s researchers identified the essential role of stem cells in epidermic cell regeneration. Now they have focused on the stem cells’ regenerating power in the deepest level of the skin. New Longoza-Cellular Complex™ features a rice extract to target wrinkles by protecting and facilitating cell regeneration. Longoza is a natural plant grown in the Dior Garden in Madagascar. The complex also contains new kenjin to plump the skin and new rye extract to stimulate stem cells to produce firming cells. By revitalizing the skin at its deepest levels, the complexion is visibly smoother, more radiant and firm, while facial contours retain their natural beauty. Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Along with the Dior Crème for Face and Neck DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Capture Totale skincare collection’s reformulation with the addition of the Longoza-Cellular Complex™, Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Crème for Face and Neck has a luxurious and innovative new packaging. It is presented in a jar with platinum and white details and a “jewel box” style opening. The Dior Capture Totale collection ranges in price from $90.00 to $196.00, and is available next month at Dior counters, Sephora and at dior.com.
New Generation UV Protection The anti-aging properties of Capture Totale are combined with a new generation of sun protection in Capture Totale Multi-Perfection UV Base SPF 50 and Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Makeup Base SPF 25. UV rays are the chief enemy of stem cells, which break down the skin’s biological structure. The stem cells slow down, so skin ages faster, dark spots appear and radiance diminishes. Dior’s scientists discovered that the skin’s stem cells are protected by a micro-environment of proteins, one of which is survivine. When the skin’s stem cells are confronted with UV rays, Dior’s new, exclusive ingredient, Survivyl ™ , boosts the stem cells’ natural resistance against the Dior Capture Totale harmful rays to preMulti-Perfection serve their regenerMakeup Base SPF 25 ative potential. Survivyl™ protects and reinforces the skin’s structure and boosts survivine production to reinforce stem cells’ natural resistance to UV rays. Survivyl™ partners with TPVityl™ to boost the natural resistance of stem cells. On the skin’s surface, broadspectrum UVA/UVB filters block rays. Dior Capture Totale Multi-Perfection UV Base SPF 50 provides maximum sun protection resulting in visibly smoother and luminous skin. It is priced at $65.00. Dior Capture Total Multi-Perfection Makeup Base SPF 25 smoothes the complexion and evens skin tone to help prolong makeup wear. It is priced at $50.00. Both new Dior Capture Totale products will be available next month at Multi-Perfection UV Dior counters and at dior.com. BF Base SPF 50
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Dior’s Beauty Care
Laurie Black, Jill Belasco, Laurice Rahmé, Jeannine Shao Collins and Alina Roytberg
L’Oréal’s Karen Fondu, Frédéric Rozé and Carol Hamilton
Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) honored five of the industry’s most luminous female executives at the organization’s 37th Annual Achiever Awards luncheon on November 12. Recipients included Jill Belasco, Founder and CEO of CoScentrix; Laurie Black, EVP, GMM, Cosmetics for Nordstrom; and Alina Roytberg, Co-President and Co-Founder of Fresh. Additionally, Bond No. 9 New York’s President and Founder, Laurice Rahmé, received CEW’s Great Idea Award for Fragrance Innovation, which was sponsored by International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) and presented to her by IFF’s Vice President of Fine Fragrance and Beauty Care Worldwide, Christophe de Villeplée. CEW also honored L’Oréal USA with the Corporate Empowerment for Women Award for its commitment to the advancement of women, which was accepted at the ceremony by L’Oréal USA’s President and CEO, Frédéric Rozé.
Jean-Marc Plisson and Ms. Roytberg (r.) of Fresh IFF’s Laurent Le Guernec and Christophe de with LVMH’s Pamela Baxter Villeplée (r.) with Laurice Rahmé of Bond No. 9
Claudia Poccia of Gurwitch Products, CEW’s Lisa Klein and Carol Hamilton of L’Oréal
Fresh’s Lev Glazman and Lucy PerdomoRuehlemann
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Judy and Cos Policastro of Givaudan with Jill Belasco of CoScentrix and Donna Belasco Pratt
StriVectin’s JuE Wong and Ms. Rahmé with Annette Green
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THEPARTYSCENE
CEW ACHIEVERS’ ASPIRATIONS ARE INSPIRATIONS
CEW’s Jill Scalamandre with Ahava’s Elana Drell Szyfer
Nordstom’s Gemma Lionello and Laurie Black
CHANEL’s Evelyn Couzijn and Ava Huang
Kellie Como of Interparfums with Symrise’s John Lando
Christian Dior’s Lisa Hawkins and Terry Darland Aquila’s Nicholas Ratut, Arcade’s Diane Crecca, Coty Prestige’s Tennille Kopiasz, Bob Taylor (r.) with Ms. Roytberg The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno and Lori Singer and Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes
CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson and Avon’s Susan Heaney with L’Oréal’s Rebecca Caruso and Suzie Davidowitz
Arcade’s Rich Nightingale and Eric Dalbo (r.) with Mr. Ledes and Ms. Singer
Mr. Ratut with Saks Fifth Avenue’s Deborah Walters and Ondine Lamstein
Lisa Becker, Jill Barr and Nancy Schmidt of Macy’s
LVMH’s Cara Raffe, Jaclyn Danchak, Jessica Barlow and Jamie Roberts
Robertet’s Joe Lattarulo, Christophe Maubert and Pierre Wulff (r.) with Maria Corbiscello of Studio MC2
Mr. Ledes with Suite K’s Kathleen Croddick Mr. Lando and Symrise’s Rhona Stokols with Takasago’s Linda Romberger and Patti Carpenter Molyneaux and Kaplow Communications’ Liz Kaplow of Yankee Candle
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Mr. Lattarulo with Agilex Flavors and Fragrances’ Fred Rakity
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
Crowds in front of the faceted awning on opening day
L
ocal Liverpudlians, top Harvey Nichols executives and a handful of WAGs (“wives and girlfriends” of England’s top footballers) thronged an unveiling of the retailer’s unprecedented Beauty Bazaar store on November 9 here in Liverpool. American socialite Olivia Palermo cut a diamond-studded black ribbon to mark the occasion. As the first-ever cosmetics-only offshoot of a major luxury retailer, the three-story, 22,000 square-foot emporium not only vends leading prestige brands but offers a host of treatment services as well as a glitzy champagne bar, dubbed “Wow.” The Beauty Bazaar strategy has long been incubating, said Harvey Nichols’ CEO, Joseph Wan, at a 1930s-themed launch party. After concluding that beauty was the most “recession-resistant” category—the last in which women reined in spending during economic crises—the idea for a one-category store was born. Extensive research also revealed that Liverpool would be the ideal launchpad for such a concept, being a port city with a glam-hungry populace that spends four times the national average—second only to London’s—on beauty products and treatments. “Considering all this, we thought, ‘We can’t just sit here,’” Wan said. “’We have to define opportunities for ourselves even in a recession.’” The store lies at the heart of Liverpool ONE: the UK’s largest open-air shopping center comprising more than 160 shops, 20 restaurants and bars, a 14-screen movie theater and a five-acre park. “It was the right timing and the perfect location,” Wan noted. “Everything was very clearly taken into account.” Daniela Rinaldi, Harvey Nichols’ Group Concessions and Beauty Director, sees Beauty Bazaar as a return to the glamorous and experiential proposition Beauty Bazaar architects, Joseph Wan and of beauty retailing—following its erosion by a volatile economy and the Daniela Rinaldi, of Harvey Nichols emersion of more impersonal channels, such as online shopping. “This is a game-changer, and a benchmark for beauty going forward,” she said, citing the assortment of treatments offered that increase consumer dwell time; the glitzy, jewel-inspired décor; and even little touches, like wolf-whistling restroom mirrors. While teasing that “the concept has legs—both in other UK markets and internationally,” Rinaldi described Liverpool as Beauty Bazaar’s ideal springboard. With a rich history (as the birthplace of the Beatles) and stunning architecture, it is also home to beauty-obsessed women of all ages and races. Tanned, primped and polished within an inch of Store designer Chris Dewar-Dixon of Four IV their lives, “They are being given Harvey Nichols’ Monica Goitiandia, Mr. Wan in the champagne bar, “Wow” and Julia Bowe (r.) with Lesley Exley of Exley nothing less than they absolutely Harvey deserve,” she said. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
BEAUTY BAZAAR LAN DS IN LI VERPOOL!
Harvey Nichols’ Daniela Rinaldi and Paul Finucane
Robert Piguet Parfums’ Joe Garces, Nadia Humphreys and David Mellon
Bobbi Brown’s Hannah Jones and Katie Fletcher
Origins’ Abigail Wright, Charlie Anne Wingle, Rebecca Naylor and Kelly Hill
Estée Lauder’s Gail Hilton, Roisin Carr and Rose Kane
CHANEL’s Caroline Davies and Lisa Smith
Laura Mercier’s Kathy Murphy, Louise Bradshaw and Kelly Orma
Harvey Nichols’ Debbie Jones, Angela Lacey, Pat McInnes, Zahra Bishop and Hannah Phillips
Deborah Vine and Dr. Alex Karidis Clinique’s Stephanie Day and Jane Chadwick of the Karidis Medispa
Aveda’s Louise Wright, Marius Rusu and Rebecca Curtis-May
Harvey Nichols’ Anna Davidson and Julia Bowe (r.) with Paul Billingsby of adam&eveDDB
Shiseido’s Diane Wharier and Victoria Reeve
Self-tanning artist to the stars, James Read of The Studio by James Read
MAC’s Amy Reid, Rosanna Pattullo and Gemma Wall
Manicures, blowouts and other open treatments are performed on the second floor
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
by Heide Kuhn-Winkler
The Holiday Business A difficult year is nearly over, but for the perfumery the most important time of the year begins right now! During the holiday season, the perfumery counter is the busiest place in the city besides the jewelry store and the bookstore, because you can find beautiful things for everybody to whom you want to give a present. These shops are full of enthusiastic customers as of the end of November until the doors close on the evening before the feast (Christmas Eve), no matter how bad the past year has been. That fact will never change, as the trade figures have shown for decades. That is a particular characteristic of the beauty branch. As experts say: The harder the times, the more the woman attaches importance to her beauty. (Nowadays, so do men, I think.) So I thought it would be a good idea to ask a few key experts of trade and industry about their view of the 2012 holiday business. The Douglas Perfumeries are cautiously optimistic and expect good holiday business. The development of private income is positive, the manufacturers offer many innovations. If the weather or the future of the Euro and the financial crisis does not spoil the consumers’ fun for themselves and/or their loved ones for a visit to a perfumery, it could become a good season for the industry. Christian Lorenz, Managing Director Beauty Alliance Germany, Germany’s major association of privately-owned luxury perfumeries “Our member perfumeries successfully affect the market. Currently the development of sales of the Beauty Alliance cooperation in the fields of skincare and color cosmetics is even better than the market. As the economic conditions are favorable, we expect a good holiday business in 2012. Our ‘perfumeries Christian Lorenz with personality’ are very well-placed and see the holiday period with confidence. But ultimately, our customers make their buying decision’s themselves in the perfumery.” DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Isabel Kutter-Neudeck, General Manager Lancôme “The meaning of the holiday season for the perfumery truly is immense, because in these four weeks thirty percent of the annual turnover will be generated. That will be so again this year. A major role is played by the scents. In December, German perfumeries will sell 10,000,000 fragrances. This market segment is developing very dynamically and is at plus Isabel Kutter-Neudeck three percent, certainly driven by the successful launch of our new women‘s fragrance, La vie est belle. We expect sales of this new product, even during the holiday period, will be good, and along with the modern classic, Trésor, it will seduce the customers.” Thomas C. Schnitzler, Managing Director Nobilis Group, Germany’s major distributor of luxury cosmetics and perfumes “I‘m thinking positive—2012 was not an easy year—but we expect a good holiday business. People wish for something special during the holy feast—something that makes you forget the often difficult everyday life—and it does not matter whether it‘s a gift for 19.95 or 150 Euro and more. For the holidays, wouldn’t you like to pamper yourself and your Thomas C. Schnitzler loved ones, to thank them and to bring the year to a close with joy? I firmly believe that the perfumeries will register a good holiday turnover. As for our house, I think we are well-positioned and can supply wonderful gift ideas to our top exclusive and premium brands. Our perfumery customers are always looking for something special. They look for good quality—and we provide this to the perfumeries. Brands like Jimmy Choo, Burberry, Versace, Etro, Bond No. 9 or Kilian present highlights. Also we have noticed a growing interest and demand for home accessories. Scented candles are very popular—and also exquisite soaps provide something special. The holidays will be, I hope, in the best sense, a feast of joy for all people.” (Continued on page 54)
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
IMPRESSIONS FROM GERMANY
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
Vince Camuto PA and Launch of Men’s Ready-to-Wear and Fragrance for Men It was a Vince Camuto fashionista’s dream come true to walk into a world embellished with Vince Camuto works of art: billboard-size visual displays, footwear, watches, jewelry, accessories, fragrances, gorgeous Runway Models in every corner modeling his latest fashions, and be greeted by the legendary Lifestyle Designer and footwear icon himself, Vince Camuto, at the Dillard’s Northpark Center in Dallas, Texas, on Saturday, October 6, from 2:00–4:00 p.m.
Not only was the Vince Camuto Personal Appearance an invitation for Dillard’s customers to experience the polished, effortlessly chic, and luxurious world of Vince Camuto, it was organized to celebrate the launch of his first ready-to-wear fragrance for men. Vince Camuto’s charisma radiated, and his enthusiasm for fashion was unleashed as he revealed his vision for the bold, fresh woody fragrance. “Women are more powerful, sophisticated, and more professional than ever before, and I want men to feel empowered, and to be sexy, confident, and masculine enough to approach a woman,” explained Vince Camuto. “By wearing this fragrance, I make no promises; it’s an aphrodisiac in a bottle.” Pam Christian, Regional Sales Director of Parlux Fragrances, LLC, expressed her excitement for the Vince Camuto lifestyle brand and his passion for empowering both men and women. “Wearing Vince Camuto really makes me feel like a powerful and sexy woman,” Ms. Christian confessed. “Now having my husband wear Vince Camuto for men makes us a dynamite force!”
(Left to Right:) Customer Gideon Swift, Sales Associate with Dillard’s Women’s Fragrances’ Lino Yamaguchi, and Customer Michael Williams. Mr. Swift and Mr. Williams purchased the Vince Camuto men’s fragrance. “It smells so clean and crisp, I would wear this every day!” said Mr. Swift. Ms. Christian and Customer Jrnie Jade take a quick photo in front of the Vince Camuto display.
(Left to Right:) Parlux Fragrances’ Pam Christian, Vince Camuto, Account Executive Parlux Fragrances’ Tiffany Russell, and District Manager Parlux Fragrances’ Lynn Robinson
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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
by Normita Joven
SPOTLIGHT ON DALLAS BEAUTY
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
Fall Into Fall As the days become short and the temperature drops, Nordstrom/Montgomery Mall in Bethesda, Maryland, has found a way to keep your look hot and smoking through the long, cold season ahead. Attendance was heavy for their Trend Show held on November 3. In attendance were around 500 customers awaiting the latest in fragrance, cosmetics and color. Featured was the latest in Stunning Skin, Captivating Fragrances, Ombré Eyes and Red Lips. First off: Marc Jacobs’ Dot, with top notes of red berries, dragon fruit and honeysuckle; midnotes of jasmine, coconut water and orange; and base notes of vanilla, driftwood and musk. It has a timeless sophistication that will keep you feeling charming with an upbeat spirit during the cold fall days. For those long nights, slip into CHANEL Coco Noir, with top notes of grapefruit, bergamot, rose and jasmine, infused with notes of Indonesian patchouli and sandalwood. You can’t help but feel intimate and seductive. For quick weekends away, no trip is complete without Estée Lauder Private Collection Amber and Ylang Ylang, an oriental amber- and ylang-ylanginfused scent to keep you busy all weekend long.
Marla Herschkowipz, Makeup Artist, with a customer at the Bobbi Brown counter.
At the Trish McEvoy counter on the left, Zain Wahab, Business Manager and Skincare Specialist, assists customers, while at the CHANEL counter on the right, Ms. Lopez (left) talks to a customer.
tones to heat up any cold day; and for a softer red, try Clinique Chubby Stick in Cherry. Pair that with YSL Glossy Stain #1 for show-stopping elegance, and don’t forget Trish McEnvoy Flawless Lip Primer. With these accessories, you’ll be on the best-dressed list for any occasion, no matter what the weather outside. Evelyn Lopez assisting customers at CHANEL counter
Now that you’re feeling refreshed by your sense of smell, let’s treat the eye to stunning skin. As Nordstrom has stated: “flawless, polished-looking skin is the theme for the season.” Start with Bobbi Brown Long Wear Foundation with medium coverage, that lasts all day; for touchups, Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer Compact, a best-seller in a new formula, is guaranteed to keep you looking dewy fresh. To accompany that glowing skin, let’s add an ombré eye—the hottest look this fall. Try Dior 5 Colour Eye Shadow Palettes for a wide range of color palettes. Nars Larger than Life Eyeliner is also a favorite this season. To ensure lashes look thick and lush, don’t forget Lancôme Hypnose Drama. No look is complete without the perfect lip. Red lips are back. To perfect your catwalk look on the sidewalk, try NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Cruella, with warm DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
At the McEvoy counter, Ms. Wahab helps a customer.
They are further assisted by Ben B.
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CAPITOL CHIC
by Bernadette Lacy
HOLIDAY WINDOWS LIGHT UP AT NEW YORK CITY’S RETAILERS (continued from page 10)
Saks Fifth Avenue
Photos by Getty Images for Saks Fifth Avenue
Saks Fifth Avenue’s windows showcase the story of Snowflake and Yeti.
Clare Foley with Saks Fifth Avenue’s Steve Sadove
The Saks Fifth Avenue windows came alive with “The Snowflake Spectacular,” a light show projected onto the side of the building when the retailer kicked off its holiday celebration. There were performances by the American Ballet Theatre Dancers and The Young Audiences DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
New York Youth Choir, as well as an in-store appearance by Trace Adkins. The windows at Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship store feature the story of Snowflake and Yeti through the journey of a fashionable holiday fantasy.
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HOLIDAY WINDOWS LIGHT UP AT NEW YORK CITY’S RETAILERS Henri Bendel Chris Fiore, President of Henri Bendel, was joined by Eric Trump and Elvis Duran at the unveiling of the store’s 1920s-themed holiday windows. Customers could also roam the retailer and make purchases that benefited “Shop for a Cause.” Henri Bendel’s main floor sparkles with holiday glitter.
Henri Bendel’s window on Fifth Avenue
Bloomingdale’s 59th Street
Bloomingdale’s 59th Street’s holiday windows are inspired by Cirque du Soleil: Worlds Away.
JANUARY Maybelline New York’s Spring Beauty Trends A Walk On The Line Side . . . With Laura Mercier/ReVive’s Claudia Poccia Claudia Poccia
Interview with PZCussons Beauty’s Maggie Ciafardini Maggie Ciafardini
Cirque du Soleil: Worlds Away provided a live performance as well as inspired the theme of Bloomingdale’s 59 th Street’s 2012 holiday windows. Scenes from the film come to life inside the windows with handpainted fantasy murals and sculpted animation Joined by Cirque du Soleil performers, Bloomingdale’s Michael that tumbles and soars. Gould welcomed the crowd at the holiday window unveiling. “The 2012 Bloomingdale’s holiday windows feature exciting digital technology and take inspiration from Paramount Pictures’ upcoming film, Cirque du Soleil: Worlds Away, explained Jack Hruska, Bloomingdale’s Executive Vice President of Creative Services. “We consider our annual windows a gift to the City of New York, and in light of the recent storm, we hope that now more than ever, our windows bring a renewed sense of peace, love and hope this holiday season.” BF
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A Walk On The Line Side...With
AHAVA
(continued from page 21)
“In-store, Michele and I make sure that the people selling AHAVA are educated about our products and receive the training they need. We have videos about the brand that help them feel comfortable and speak intelligently about offering AHAVA’s products.” “Our department-store strategy is very deliberate,” Ms. Drell Szyfer declared. “I feel we win the battle, one store at a time. One week at a time. One event at a time. Because we only have shared space in-store, we are looking to increase our productivity per store with an event strategy that is rolling out the first quarter of 2013. It will allow us to gain more visibility for the brand in existing stores, even if it is at limited times of the season. When we are able to increase productivity,” she added, “then we can command more space in those existing stores.”
AHAVA’s products are easily accessible to ULTA’s shoppers.
11 AM: ULTA Queens Boulevard Rego Park, New York
Ms. Drell Szyfer and Ms. Rupansingh at ULTA’s Grab+Go display
ULTA’s Stephanie Rupansingh and Christina Pesapane showcase the AHAVA display.
“One of Michele’s ideas is to play in themed categories within promotions, so that we can easily tell the story and yet offer some kind of value to the customer,” Ms. Drell Szyfer reported. ULTA makes the customer feel comfortable by assisting them if necessary, but allowing them to shop on their own when they so desire. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Ms. Michelman maintains that packaging is key in an environment like ULTA. “It’s really about how to educate the consumer and stand out in ULTA’s environment. A lot of the retailers congratulate us on using sleeves to tell the story, the product’s benefits and claims. These sleeves are more colorful than our standard packaging,” she added. One of the opportunities that ULTA offers is its Grab+Go section. “We have our own gondola or wall at ULTA and also participate in this Grab+Go section,” Ms. Forrest explained, “and it has been a huge success for us.” The Grab+Go section is near checkout, so customers are exposed to AHAVA even if they don’t know about the brand. Ms. Forrest said that ULTA “is great at suggestive selling to add something to the bag. Not only has Grab+Go been a wonderful program for AHAVA from a sales standpoint, but it has also brought people to buy the big sizes of our products.”
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A Walk On The Line Side...With AHAVA 12:30 PM: Lord & Taylor Manhasset, New York
AHAVA’s Erin Wagner and Ms. Forrest (r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Linda Hartman and Kyra Grill who hold AHAVA gift sets
AHAVA’s display is on a high-traffic aisle in Lord & Taylor.
ship with Elana and the AHAVA team. They are terrific partners and work hard to help us get great growth together.” “Michele and I have some very deliberate plans for our future department-store strategy,” Ms. Drell Szyfer disclosed. “Because we have shared space instead of counter space, we want to increase our productivity per store with an event strategy that is rolling out in the first quarter of 2013. It will allow us to gain significantly more visibility for the brand.”
2:30 PM: Nordstrom/Roosevelt Field Garden City, New York
Displays of AHAVA’s holiday gift sets engage the customers.
Erin Wagner, AHAVA’s Northeast Account Executive, pointed out that AHAVA is usually on one tower, but, “since this Lord & Taylor is one of our high-performance stores, they gave [us] a whole second tower. “It’s all about performance and great relationships,” Ms. Wagner declared. She reported that customers in the Manhasset area love the AHAVA brand, and “we have a Sales Specialist who loves the brand. It makes for great numbers.” Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore, Group Vice President Cosmetics, stated, “We have a very strong partnerDEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Ms. Drell Szyfer has a two-prong strategy for driving the business at Nordstrom. “We are in limited distribution and hope to increase our door count.” “Nordstrom has just launched our face [products] instore, and we are looking to expand this distribution as well. The second prong of AHAVA’s strategy is “stay and play, focusing on sampling the customer.” AHAVA is rolling out the event strategy to Nordstrom as well as Lord & Taylor. “Nordstrom is a wonderful partner,” stated Ms. Forrest. “Our location is on an étagère, and the business continues to grow as Nordstrom continues to roll us out to more stores and add face care into their distribution.” Ms. Drell Szyfer explained that AHAVA has started to customize its distribution based on the type of account.
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A Walk On The Line Side...With
AHAVA
Ms. Forrest, Ms. Drell Szyfer and Ms. Wagner (r.) with Nordstrom’s Jessica Canzoneri
“The merchandise presentation may vary in different areas. For example, Nordstrom does not carry our suncare products but did request them for their store in Ala Moana. They are now doing an unbelievable sun business with our full sun-care line.” According to Ms. Drell Szyfer, AHAVA’s key retailers’ brick-and-mortar .coms have brought explosive growth to AHAVA this year. “It’s managing the synergies between in-store and online that drive the business in-store.” She believes that Nordstrom is being adventurous as a retailer by acquiring HauteLook. “They understand that their customer shops in brick-and-mortar, on their .com and also in a flash environment. We are working synergistically across channels to take advantage of all types of businesses. Holiday gift sets were given a new look this year. AHAVA’s products are being offered in travel sizes presented in clear, giftable packaging that resembles an ornament. “Michele had the idea of partnering with Orlandi to offer fragranced salts for the first time, and we have scratchand-sniff labels for each scent,” Ms. Drell Szyfer informed. That same scratch-and-sniff label is also on full-size sealed containers of scented salts.
3:30 PM: Cottage Pharmacy Woodbury, New York AHAVA’s independent store distribution is serviced through a network of representatives throughout the country. “Generally, independent stores come to us in two ways,” Ms. Drell Szyfer reported. Either our independent representatives have identified stores that meet our criteria in terms of image and retail partners, types of business and store location. Or, the store has identified us as a brand they want to carry, and this is happening more and more because their customers are asking for our products. They will call our office to speak to the DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Ms. Drell Szyfer and Ms. Forrest (r.) stand by the AHAVA display with Cottage Pharmacy’s Matthew Carrus.
AHAVA contact that focuses on the independent accounts, who then either assigns one of our independent representatives to visit the store or a house account is opened for them.” The independent representatives function in a similar fashion to AHAVA’s key accounts. Ms. Drell Szyfer explains that a plano gram is designed based on the amount of shelf space in the store. “We have the ability to customize that plano gram for a unique, large or small space.” AHAVA has initiated merchandising units especially for their independent stores. “We now offer products to be available only in a certain part of the country,” she continued. “The independent store may not have a traditional Beauty Advisor, so we have training packages for their Sales Associates combined with their sampling allocation. The package contains a training DVD, as well as postcards that are mailed to customers or handed out instore.” Cottage Pharmacy’s General Manager, Matthew Carrus, said the typical customer might come in to pick up a prescription and then see a nice cosmetic or skincare item they need as well. “We have a very loyal customer base, and that starts with the level of service we provide.” Mr. Carrus said Cottage Pharmacy’s customer base has a high household income. “They are older with kids in college, but we are now starting to see younger families as well. Our customers are aware of AHAVA, and it is building a following,” he reports. “The core AHAVA line that we carry has been quite successful and has a return customer, which is important. Now we have incorporated face as well as body, and it has done well.” BF
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EC Scott Group (continued from page 26)
During the first day’s session, there was also a discussion about EC Scott Group’s large investment in technology. “Our investment in salesforce.com will allow our team to have the most accurate and clear information at the touch of a button,” Mr. Scott informed. “It will allow us to track visits, calls, trainings and events. It will be a tremendous tool to further develop our customer service.” “In addition to salesforce.com, we have equipped our field team with iPads. We have all training documents, videos and other forms at our fingertips,” he continued. “These two technology investments will be meaningful for years to come.” On Monday afternoon, Smashbox Cosmetics’ national Account Manager, Krista Baker, provided a business overview and presented Fall/Holiday new launches. As Ms. Baker stated, “I’ve been coming to EC Scott Group’s National Conferences for several years and find their sales team to be highly interactive, knowledgeable, and fun.“
Martha Scott, Ms. Aslankhani, Ms. Tongprasert, Ms. Yannuzzi and Ms. Johnston
Ms. Townsend and Ms. Rintel
EC Scott Group’s Sales and Training Conference was all about bringing the whole team together, which now includes over forty full-time sales representatives. During the five days of the conference, EC Scott Group brings together representatives from most of its supply partners and communicates brand and sales strategies to its sales team. As Julie Freeman, Executive Director of Education and Business Development, expressed: “We give our sales team the DNA of each brand we represent, so when they go in to a retailer to service a brand such as Smashbox, they can talk as if they are an employee of Smashbox.” Ms. Freeman further shared that “our sales team’s focus on new products and promotions provides the retailers with the expertise they need to train their staff.”
MONDAY In a welcoming address, Mr. Scott outlined the meeting’s agenda and the objectives. After a review of sales and business strategies, the attendees broke into roundtable discussions with time allowed for peer learning and development of business strategies. As Mr. Huber noted: “It was an important morning where EC Scott Group Management listened to the challenges that our sales team faces, and we worked together on potential solutions.” DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Smashbox in-store
TUESDAY Heather Dickerson, the Buyer for Private Edition and Cosmetic Market based in Nashville, TN, revealed what a buyer looks for in a brand’s representative, how presentations should be made and how new products should be launched. “It was great to hear directly from a Buyer, since knowing what and how to communicate to them is very important. Heather is a great partner,” declared Mr. Huber. “Our team loved her, and she loves us.” It was all about philosophy in the afternoon. Russ Hammond, philosophy’s National Director of Corporate Accounts, presented a strong Fall/Holiday season. He discussed the brand’s investment in advertising and philosophy’s expectations from EC Scott Group. “We find EC Scott Group’s sales team to be part of the philosophy sales team,” exclaimed Mr. Hammond.
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Private Edition
The philosophy display in the “Experience Room”
The philosophy’s in-store display
The group next went into CRM and technology training. The team was shown key points as well as tips and tricks to capture important information. “This type of technology will facilitate our ability to research and reach new customers in secondary and tertiary markets,” confirmed Mr. Huber. The “Experience Room” was set up to show everyone how brands are merchandised in an exciting, eye-catching way. This room featured holiday décor and brand DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
The Smashbox display in the “Experience Room”
presentations and sparked ideas for the holiday event season. “It also allowed the team to try, smell and touch all the holiday items, so they can speak confidently to customers about the upcoming launches,” stated Lyndsey Macmillan, Senior Beauty Operations Manager . 51
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EC Scott Group WEDNESDAY
THURSDAY
The morning was dedicated to fragrance. It started off with an overview of fragrance industry trends and growth potential. “We at EC Scott Group are optimistic and planning on riding the wave of success through the Fall/Holiday season,” affirmed Tim Greene, Senior Vice President of Marketing and Sales Operations. “Our strong momentum will continue with the strength of new launches and standout promotions this season.“ The afternoon session was devoted to a presentation by Bliss. “We enjoyed learning all about the new products and the success the core products have experienced thus far,” Ms Freeman reported. “We learned more about the Bliss spas and how the products are developed and are brought to market. Knowing the ‘why’ behind the products is just as important as knowing the product,” she added.
The morning activities started early with a team hike, climbing Equinox mountain, as participants cheered each other on the entire way.
Bliss
EC Scott Group hosted an elegant dinner for Bliss, where the group had some time to escape the business setting and get to know the Bliss team in a social setting. DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
The participants in the EC Scott Group hike
The first training of the day was with EC Scott Group’s luxury professional haircare tools company, T3. The sales team learned about the company’s strong positioning in the market and point of difference. New launches were covered to prepare the EC Scott Group’s sales team to sell and train. Clarins Director of Education, Queenie Lee, joined the EC Scott Group Conference to review the brand. “We were taken through the history of Clarins, its top sellers and learned tips and tricks to share with our accounts,” Ms. Freeman noted. The afternoon session was all about Mr. Scott’s discussion of key takeaways and recapping the strategies for the Fall/Holiday season. The conference wrapped up with a closing dinner. After the national training conference, the entire management team hit the road and visited with its sales team in regional meetings. The regional meetings allowed for one-on-one attention, discussion of specific regional and accounts plans, and a reconfirmation that everyone understood their focuses for the upcoming season. As Mr. Scott concluded, “the personal relationship we have with most of our customers translates into a company sales culture, where we really try to make our customers successful. And with the help of our brand partnerships, we are confident it will happen for years to come. “ Ms. Risbridger with Mr. Scott BF
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STATE OF THE US FRAGRANCE MARKET (continued from page 31)
Pochet’s Stephane Vincenti and Gerald Walle with Elizabeth Arden’s Pierre Pirard and Qualipac’s Eric Vanin
Ms. Lagani (c.) with Clarins Fragrance Group’s Ben Guerin and Lionel Uzan
Lancôme’s Andrew Armstrong and Serge Jureidini with Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes
IFF’s Matt Frost and Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe with Mr. Teets
Symrise’s Tara Thompson with Doreen Bolhoffer of Doreen Bolhoffer Associates
Givaudan’s Yara Karmiloff and Cos Policastro (2nd r.) with David Suffit of Kiehl’s and Ms. Vaile
Firmenich’s Cheryl Morano, Mr. Morris and Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro
Arcade’s Sonia Milfort, Alice Sciortino and Laura Freedman
Ms. Sutcliffe, Ms. Kline and Firmenich’s Theo Spilka
Robert Staph, Doug Boissonault and Karl Gordinier of drom
Mr. Galloway sees the blogger as gaining influence over the Beauty Advisor in determining a consumer’s purchase. Often, the consumer at-counter will interact with her iPad instead of the Beauty Advisor in making her decision. He reports that consumers’ inability to find product and avoidance of Sales Associates as reasons that they turn to purchase online. Three years from now, Mr. Galloway predicts, “Most traffic will go to mobile devices with a conversion from smart phone to tablet.” Fragrance is only on 6% of Google’s links, and, he maintains, the Internet exposes flaws in the fragrance industry’s business model. The fragrance industry, unlike fashion, is under-invested in digital media. “There are a ton of opportunities with better search engines and especially with celebrities.” BF
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IMPRESSIONS FROM GERMANY (continued from page 42)
First Max Factor Make-Up Studio Opened In Berlin Multicultural and full of energy—that’s Berlin. Here, or more precisely in the trendy Berlin-Mitte district the first Max Factor pop-up store opened for the first time for three weeks. Beauty enthusiasts and makeup fans had the opportunity to get professional advice and create together with makeup artists their personal look under the motto “Find the makeup artist in you!” The over-100-yearlong history of the brand has been shown on a “history wall” in the store. After all, in the thirties, the legendary Max Factor already had Hollywood icons in his “Max Factor make-up studio,” and helped them to find their unique look. For the opening, Max Factor’s Makeup Artist Stephan Smith had designed the “Berlin Look 2012.”
Another interior view
Actress Collien Ulmen-Fernandes and Max Factor’s Stephan Schmied
Max Factor Make-Up Studio in Berlin, exterior view
Interior view of the studio DEC EMB ER 2 0 1 2 /
Presenter, Actress and Model Collien Ulmen-Fernandes got advice from Max Factor’s Stephan Schmied. He created a unique styling for her. “The Berlin Look is loud without being contrived and unnatural. I want these characteristics to show in my styling and makeup. Stephan Schmied has done a look which is perfect for my personality and this great city,” Ms. Ulmen-Fernandes said. Stephan Schmied is a “bundle of energy,” and Collien Ulmen-Fernandes the perfect choice for the Berlin Look: “Like my adopted city, Berlin, I combine self-confidence, energy and a multicultural heritage, things that Collien embodies also in a perfect way. Both have inspired me for this look. The strong eye area with almost oriental eyeliner is a beautiful contrast to the soft, natural hues on cheeks and lips.” Max Factor Berlin Look BF 54
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SPOTLIGHT ON DALLAS BEAUTY (continued from page 43)
Vince Camuto is proud to meet his fans! Here is Mr. Camuto with big VC fan Ms. Jade!
Vince Camuto customers enjoyed taking photos and receiving an autographed photo from Mr. Camuto.
(Left to Right:) Assistant Visual Manager for Dillard’s Brittany Brown, Mr. Camuto, and Visual Manager for Dillard’s Ron Buscher
Vince Camuto customers waited in long lines throughout the day to get a minute of face time with the famous Lifestyle Designer!
After exploding with over 27 categories in the Vince Camuto women’s market, creating the best value for women from head to toe, the fashion company Camuto Group is also creating a scene in the men’s market. “Working with Vince Camuto and watching how much the brand has grown since the inception of the footwear lines of BCBG in 2002 has been an incredible experience,” said Crista Maul, Regional Merchandiser and Manager for the Central Region Camuto Group. “Vince Camuto is such an inspiration, and after launching brands for celebrities and major fashion and footwear lines, it’s amazing to see him in the spotlight launching his own. He wants to be The Complete Lifestyle Brand.”
Ms. Christian said the response to the Vince Camuto men’s fragrance launch has been incredible, and it is just the beginning for other men’s products to come in the near future. “Customers are constantly asking about men’s footwear, fashion and accessories because of the prestige quality of the women’s lines!” The Vince Camuto lifestyle brand has captured the essence of the sophisticated, sexy and stylish modern-day man and woman. The Vince Camuto fragrance collection consists of 3.4-oz. Eau de Toilette Spray ($70.00), 1.7-oz. Eau de Toilette Spray ($57.00) and 2.75oz. Alcohol Free Deodorant Stick ($17.00). BF Vince Camuto Model
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MUSMANNO DEBUTS
GIRL’S NIGHT OUT
AT THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION
(continued from page 33)
(continued from page 22)
tors from the world of art, technology and design to enlighten, educate and energize our industry.” Her plans for the 2013 FiFi’s have already kicked off by hiring a new production company to “add some glamour and represent the world-class industry in which we work.” Another initiative is to Parlux’s Linda Levy with Clarins’ bring the consumer to the Jonathan Zrihen FiFi’s. Nominees will be named in January so that a media blitz can get the word out to consumers through magazines, bloggers, online outlets and television to drive them to the new Fragrance Foundation social media outlets to vote. Ms. Musmanno would like to add a sample mailer in future years, so consumers can “try” a fragrance before voting.
AHAVA’s Elana Drell Szyfer with Ms. Breen
Gurwitch Products’ Bonnie Beer with Ms. Levy and Ms. Poccia
Ms. Russo with P&G Prestige Products’ Don Loftus, Cosimo Policastro of Givaudan and Ms. Darland
There is a plan to organize a national shopping night— a Fragrance Festival—to build a team effort with the retail members of The Fragrance Foundation, as well as its publishing and manufacturing members. It is hoped that the retailers will present GWP/PWP’s to drive sales. Ms. Musmanno impressed on members that “The Fragrance Foundation belongs equally to each one of us. It is truly our Foundation and one that we will build together.” BF
QVC’s Claudia Lucas with LVMH Fragrance Brands’ Nicholas Munafo
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Ms. Dowley, Chrysallis’ Jill Scalamandre and Ms. Drell Szyfer
Seven years ago, the first Girl’s Night Out was held to benefit the FIT Scholarship in Ms. Scott’s memory. “The first year, we raised $500,” informed Estée Lauder’s General Manager/Senior Vice President, Nancy McKay. “This year, we’ve raised about $15,000.” Elizabeth Arden’s Senior Vice President, Laurie Dowley, shared, “Since Girl’s Night Out began, we’ve given 15 FIT scholarships. Most important, we honor Jane Scott’s memory by giving students the chance of attending FIT.” Ms. McKay explained that 2011 was the first year that recipients of Jane Scott FIT scholarships were invited to attend Girl’s Night Out. This year, Jane Scott FIT Scholarship recipients Candance MacPherson, Madeleine Bustamante and Tiffany Toro met their benefactors at the event. “Jane’s memory lives on in the work and projects of these students,” she noted. BF 56
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