Cosmetic World January 30, 2012

Cosmetic World january 30, 2012

BULLETIN LA PRAIRIE’S WHITE HOT WINTER AT SAKS

Saks’ Karyn Benvenuto and Kate Oldham (r.) with François Le Gloan and Denise Yarcheski of La Prairie.

La Prairie hosted a White Hot Winter celebration at its recently renovated Saks Fifth Avenue counter in New York City on January 17. The brand showcased

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Vol. XLVIII / No. 2

CEW ADDRESSES HISPANIC MARKET Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) hosted its first Women & Men in Beauty Series event of the new year on January 19 in New York City. Graciela Eleta, senior vice president of the Client Development Group for Univision Communications; Linda Levy, vice president of merchandise marketing for cosmetics and fragrances at Macy’s; and Alexandra Vegas, director of the Multicultural Business Development Organization for P&G, came together to share their personal insights and their companies’ strategic

Univision’s Graciela Eleta with Macy’s Linda Levy and Alexandra Vegas of P&G.

approaches on how to market beauty to the Hispanic consumer.

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IFF CREATES SCIENTIFIC ADVISORY BOARD

IFF is launching a Scientific Advisory Board (SAB), comprised of five scientific talents in key research and development areas

MANE TAKES SCENT TO NEW LEVEL

ERNO LASZLO CELEBRATES 85 YEARS Known for his custom skin care formulations and A-list roster of clients, the late Dr. Erno Laszlo’s traditions will continue to touch the faces and lives of many as the brand begins a new chapter after 85 years.

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BALENCIAGA SIGNS KRISTEN STEWART

Coty Prestige and B a l e n c i a g a h av e Mane perfumers Jim Krivda, Vincent Kuczinski, a n n o u n c e d t h a t Ellen Molner, Ralf Schwieger and Cecile Hua. ‘Twilight’ actress French Perfume house, Mane, recently Kristen Stewart will showcased their latest marketing initiative, -Continued on Page 15 Fragrance Avatar—a multi-sensorial P&G PARTNERS WITH exhibition of animated olfactive art USA GYMNASTICS inspired by visual images—at its Procter & Gamble is partnering Manhattan Creative Studio. with USA Gymnastics for the With the goal to put the artistry back London 2012 Olympic Games, and into perfumery, Mane removed all the has named Alicia Sacramone— usual constraints facing perfumers, such the most decorated U.S. gymnast as concepts, consumer demographics, -Continued on Page 15 branding, price point, etc., and challenged TARGET LAUNCHES five perfumers to create fragrances from PIXIGLOW COLLECTION their very core, as personally inspired Pixi creator and Target by visual imagery. beauty design partner, “The goal of Mane is to be the Petra Strand, has partnered creative alternative challenger to the with The Walt Disney big fragrance houses,” said Dr. Syed Company to launch the Shamil, vice president of marketing fine

Charles Denton, formerly of Fold7 and Molton Brown, recently acquired Erno Laszlo with a renewed vision built upon the brand’s enduring philosophy.

“The new Erno Laszlo is relevant, reinvigorated, redesigned and reborn, said Denton, CEO. “I’m privileged to

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The limitededition Erno Laszlo Hollywood Collection.

Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2012 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.

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CEW ADDRESSES HISPANIC MARKET -Continued from Page 9

Macy’s Nancy Schmidt and Muriel Gonzalez with Jill Scalamandre of Chrysallis.

Elizabeth Arden’s Francine Gingras and Claudia Lucas of QVC.

According to Eleta, Univision’s research has shown that the Hispanic market has spending power of over $1 trillion, and that over 18% of the current adult population (18-49 years of age) is of Hispanic decent.

“When it comes to beauty, color cosmetics is a major category for Latinas,” said Eleta. “They want the and, not the or—lipstick and lipgloss, not only one of them.”

Vegas, who started her marketing career at P&G’s Venezuelan office, has been the driving force behind many top-tier brands including Pantene and Pampers, and knows the ins and outs of the Latina consumer.

“Beauty routines start earlier in the Hispanic population,” said Vegas. “A Latina will go the extra mile for beauty products and stretch the money to get that special something she’s been wanting. It’s amazing how she will pamper herself and do everything she can to look her very best.”

To provide the retail perspective, Levy weighed in on her thoughts regarding the Hispanic consumer at Macy’s.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Susan Akkad, Diana Espino and Catherine Barber.

George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com

Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com

John G. Ledes publisher & editor emeritus

Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com

Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com

Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com

For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 10

“The Hispanic customer is someone we are really looking into at Macy’s,” said Levy. “We have over 800 stores in heavily-populated areas, and we are focused on having the right assortment in store for them, wherever they like to shop. We have also begun translating our traditional advertising into Spanish—the key is to understand how to communicate with this consumer across all channels. We really need to get to know this customer.

This is our biggest opportunity for the next couple of years.”

Eleta added to the retail conversation, discussing the importance of a brand’s in-store presence to the Latina consumer.

“Packaging is key to this market, and has to be just right,” said Eleta. “Bilingual packaging is a plus, and celebrity endorsements are 10 times more important to these consumers. She is able to develop a connection with the brand when it targets her in her own language and culture.”

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Shiseido’s Rita Mangan and Barbara Zinn Moore of Lord & Taylor.

COSMETIC WORLD

Univision’s Julie Pinkwater and Beth Ann Martinelli with Paul Morris of ScrollMotion (c.).

Givaudan’s Irina Burlakova Rucinski, Catherine Lee and Kelly Bastidas.

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CEW ADDRESSES HISPANIC MARKET -Continued from Page 10

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Matt Teri and Carol Russo with John Stella of Elizabeth Arden.

IFF’s Jeanine Bernstock and FIT’s Stephan Kanlian with Coty Prestige’s Breanna Martin and Jason Boland of Mane.

From the manufacturer’s point of view, Vegas highlighted her thoughts for the Hispanic market moving forward.

“If brands are serious about marketing to the Hispanic consumer, it has to be a long-term commitment,” said Vegas. “It should be made part of the early design stage for new products, and brands should be choosing

Macy’s Tasha Blackman and Mary Kohatsu with Anitra Marsh of P&G.

Maybelline New York’s Dan Villarroel with Julie Pinkwater.

ambassadors that appeal to both the general market and the Hispanic market—Jennifer Lopez for Venus, Eva Mendes for Pantene and Sophia Vergara for CoverGirl, for example. Looking forward, our current portfolios may no longer work, and we may even have to develop new brands to cater to this market.”

Oscar de la Renta’s Jean Hoehn Zimmerman and Mary Manning of Manning Associates.

IFF’s Barbara Downey, Matt Frost and Fernanda Albejante.

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NEWPRODUCTS NARS

L’ORÉAL PARIS

BAREMINERALS

Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

Youth Code Dark Spot Correcting and Illuminating Serum

Active Cell Renewal Night Serum

Category: Skin care Category: Makeup Category: Skin care Launch: January 2012 Launch: January 2012 Launch: January 2012 Claims: Giving new Claims: Just like its Claims: This deep-action meaning to a good night’s namesake flower, known formula works double-duty sleep, this skin-revitalizing for its long-lasting pink to correct dark spots from serum replenishes skin blooms, this hot-pink lip within and deliver instant and maximizes cellular pencil leaves lips soft luminosity with Liquid Silver— renewal throughout the and gorgeously glossy an ultra-shiny, mirror-like night, as well as dramatithanks to moisture-rich concentrate that reflects light. cally boosts moisture levels. hyaluronic spheres, Key Ingredients: Vitamins B3 Key Ingredients: which make pouts and cG, pro-cysteine, recoverine, Kombucha Black Tea, appear plumper.

ER195 and bismuth oxychloride. jujube, maral root and lavender.

Stats: $24.00 Stats: $24.99 Stats: $50.00

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COSMETIC WORLD

ERNO LASZLO

MANE TAKES SCENT TO NEW LEVEL

have the opportunity to lead this unique business at a time when people are turning to products that keep their promises.”

Motivated to recapture the brand’s status as the “Authority in Skincare,” the new Erno Laszlo team has set goals to once again create products of integrity that meet the specific and individual demands of each and every client, as once done by Dr. Laszlo himself.

fragrance at Mane. “As animators, the detailing their thought process and perfumers are truly empowered artists, inspiration for the scents they created. and the Fragrance Avatar initiative To provide a multi-sensorial experience, was developed to put our perfumers props including taste and tactile on center stage and showcase their renditions were carefully selected creativity and talent to our major by the Mane marketing team to clients, industry partners and media.” enhance the guest’s experience Mane perfumers, Ellen Molner, surrounding each perfumer’s interVincent Kuczinski, Jim Krivda, pretation and story.

Cecile Hua and Ralf Schwieger, “The reaction was overwhelmingly each developed two fragrances, with positive, with great feedback,” said the exception of Molner who created Shamil. “The clients particularly three. All of the eleven scents were liked the ‘wow factor’ associated based on the perfumer’s personal with each of the eleven fragrances on interpretations exhibit, as of a series of well as the visual images. pure artistry A light of the cresculpture ations. The called “The f o r u m wa s Fire,” designed very conduby sculpture cive for the artist Kilu, clients to was placed imagine and at the entrydream about way to the the developLightbox “stations” displaying props and fragrances Ava t a r t o ment of their inside the Fragrance Avatar exhibition. represent own brands another form of visual art for olfac- in a world very different from the tive inspiration. normal boardroom.”

“The Fire Light Sculpture was the Art Spiro, executive vice president artist’s animated rendition of sooth- of fragrance innovation at Elizabeth ing and calming fire, and was con- Arden, also provided feedback on sistent with the Fragrance Avatar’s his visit to the Fragrance Avatar. theme of animation,” said Shamil. “It “This is great! This is exactly what was a beautiful piece of dramatic art, our young professionals should be and it had a mesmerizing ‘wow’ exposed to. This is what perfumery is impact on the visitors.” all about,” said Spiro. “It would be At each “station” throughout the great if today, as clients, we could exhibition, guests listened to audio brief the perfumers with one visual tapes recorded by the perfumers and have them create freely.”

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Dr. Laszlo posing with young actresses at Warner Brothers Studios, where he was offered a supervisory job in the makeup department.

“As the brand enters its 85th year, I am humbled by the responsibility of restoring this American legend which has touched the lives of so many people,” said Denton. “He famously tailored products and beauty preparations to each client, creating the ‘Laszlo Look.’ Even today Erno Laszlo devotees can be picked out of a crowd based on their youthful looking skin.”

The Greta Garbo Velvet Night Cream from The Hollywood Collection.

To celebrate its anniversary, the brand is launching five new products— The Hollywood Collection—inspired

by Dr. Laszlo’s most famous muses from past generations including

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COSMETIC WORLD

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Katharine Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly.

Based on custom formulations taken from the Erno Laszlo archives, the new products have been updated with the latest skin care technology and designed to help women maintain their radiant complexions.

The collection includes Ava Gardner Instant Eye Repair ($85.00), Marilyn Monroe Morning Beauty Rescue ($95.00), Katharine Hepburn

Intensive Porcelain Veil ($140.00), Grace Kelly Refresh Moisture Infusion ($125.00) and Greta Garbo Velvet Night Cream ($175.00).

Each of the products, as well as a limited-edition collection (featuring one 15g and four 50g products), are exclusive at Nordstrom throughout February, and will be available at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Ave n u e , N e i m a n M a rc u s a n d ernolaszlo.com in March.

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TARGET LAUNCHES PIXIGLOW COLLECTION -Continued from Page 9

PixiGlow collection, an extension to the existing Pixi beauty line.

Inspired by Tinker Bell, Disney’s most iconic fairy, the collection was developed in a unique collaboration between Strand and Disney character artist, John Quinn, whose task was to turn the fairy of childhood memories into a vintage-inspired beauty who could appeal to women of all ages.

“This collection is all about magic, centered on the most famous fairy in the world,” said Strand. “We took the attributes from Tinker Bell that we loved, and turned her into a matured, ageless, glowing beauty.”

Designed to complement current Pixi products, the PixiGlow collection is comprised of six products that are made to offer a final dusting of shimmer for eyes, lips and cheeks, as well as nails.

“The collection embodies youthfulness at any age,” said Strand.

“We’re all little girls at heart, and

E.L.F. COSMETICS

Shawn Haynes, formerly of Markwins International, has been appointed vice president of retail sales. In this new role, he will focus on expanding the brand’s distribution primarily in the U.S., while also strategizing new ways to strengthen e.l.f.’s existing retail partnerships. when it comes down to it, everyone looks better with a little glow.”

Ranging in price from $8.00 (Pirouette Pink Nail Colour) to $34.00 (Fairy Face Palette), each new product incorporates the Pixi commitment to skin-loving, multipurpose formulas that make women look like themselves, only more gorgeous.

“Our goal with PixiGlow, and every other Pixi product, is to give women more than they expect,” said Strand. “Beauty is not something exclusive, and our partnership with Target makes our products accessible and simplifies beauty.”

The PixiGlow collection is now available at target.com, and will be launching exclusively at Target stores in March.

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NEWPRODUCTS

COVERGIRL + OLAY

MARC ECKŌ

Tone Rehab 2-in-1 Foundation

UNLTD. The Exhibit

Category: Skin care Launch: January 2012 Claims: Available in 14 shades, this antiaging liquid foundation combines the newest advancements in beauty and skin care to cover fine lines, discolorations and wrinkles, and helps improve skin tone over time for a luminous, youthful look.

Key Ingredients: Vitamin E, glycerine, niacinamide and allantoin.

Stats: $13.99

Category: Fragrance Launch: January 2012 Claims: Inspired by the work of Barcelona-born graffiti artist PEZ, this citrus aromatic eau de toilette is an energizing, edgy blend of effervescent fruits and warm, masculine woody notes.

Key Notes: Bergamot, apple, cardamom, dewy melon and vetiver.

Stats: 1.7 oz., $45.00; 3.4 oz., $58.00

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PEOPLE & PROMOTIONS

LA PRAIRIE

Lynne Florio has assumed the role of global brand president—a newly created position in which she will develop and execute the global marketing and positioning of all La Prairie products, including treatment, color and fragrance, within 82 countries. In addition, Ms. Florio will oversee the global communications team.

François Le Gloan, formerly of Christian Dior, has been named vice president, Americas, responsible for North and South America, Australia and New Zealand markets.

In September 2011, Yves Le Breton, who was previously at Sisley USA, became vice president of corporate and sales strategy, a newly created position to drive the development of sales and distribution worldwide, including the travel retail business.

MAESA GROUP

Dawn Smith, formerly of LF Beauty, has joined the company as vice president of business development for Maesa Packaging.

Diego Alulema, previously at L’Oréal and ChemAid Laboratories, has been named quality assurance manager (supplier quality) for Maesa.

OLE HENRIKSEN

Alexandra Kole, formerly of Sephora Americas, has been named CEO of Ole Henriksen of Denmark, Inc., where she will be responsible for expanding the brand’s market presence globally, driving product innovation and continuing to enhance the company’s sales.

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january 30, 2012

COSMETIC WORLD

BULLETIN LA PRAIRIE at saks -Continued from Page 9

the latest launches from its White Caviar Collection, which are set to make their official debut in February, and treated shoppers to complimentary mini hand massages by estheticians from the La Prairie Spa at the RitzCarlton New York, Central Park.

develop innovative solutions in our flavors and fragrances business and better serve our customers’ needs,” said Doug Tough, chairman and CEO of IFF. “We anticipate that it will give us strong competitive advantage not only by tapping into the minds of the board members, but by leveraging their access to a global network of academics, high-level industry members, and their associates.”

BALENCIAGA

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The new White Caviar Collection.

“Tonight we want to send the message that our new counter is a very homey place, where the La Prairie team can give you personalized service,” said François Le Gloan, vice president, Americas, for La Prairie.

“The clientele system at Saks is very efficient and tells us a lot about purchase patterns, etc., so we have used these details to learn about our customers, and build a counter that best suits them. Key traffic spots display new products, like the White Caviar launches right now, and the counter’s round shape is designed to be feminine and inviting. It’s not just a place to stop, but a place to stay.”

IFF’s ADVISORY BOARD -Continued from Page 9

as identified in the company’s global strategic review, to escalate innovation.

Th e S A B, l e d by D r. A h m e t Baydar, senior vice president of research and development for IFF, will provide external perspectives on the company’s R&D programs, raise scientific issues and opportunities relevant to IFF’s business needs, help identify appropriate research partners, and assist in the identification and development of key R&D personnel.

“The addition of this high-quality SAB to our R&D group will help us

january 30, 2012

COSMETIC WORLD

be the face of the new Balenciaga fragrance for women, which is scheduled to debut in the fall.

“Kristen Stewart stood out as an evident choice for this new fragrance,” said Catherine Walsh, senior vice president of American Fragrances for Coty Prestige. “She has a unique sense of style, quite original and chic in the way she mixes fashion elements.

Her elegant modernity and innate rebel style perfectly match with the spirit of Balenciaga.”

Stewart follows actress Charlotte Gainsbourg, the face of the Balenciaga Paris fragrance since 2010, and the muse of Balenciaga’s creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière.

“From [Kristen’s] early appearance in ‘Panic Room,’ to her independent choice of ‘Welcome to the Riley’s,’ I’ve always sensed her progressive character,” said Ghesquière. “In 2006, I invited her to appear in a product shot by Bruce Weber. Since then, I’ve always wished to collaborate with her further, knowing that she shares the radical spirit of Balenciaga.”

NEWPRODUCTS RIMMEL LONDON Exaggerate Eye Liner Category: Makeup Launch: January 2012 Claims: This breakthrough, black liquid liner features an ultrafine felt tip designed to absorb maximum liquid and deposit intense pigment for bold, exact application and majorly amplified eyes.

Stats: $6.00

MAYBELLINE Dream Nude Airfoam Foundation Category: Makeup Launch: January 2012 Claims: Available in 12 shades with SPF 16, this perfectly lightweight foundation uses exclusive, ultra-fine aerated pigments to deliver an amazing nudeperfect finish.

Stats: $10.99

güd Natural Body Butter in Orange Petalooza

P&G partnership -Continued from Page 9

i n t h e h i s t o r y o f t h e Wo r l d Championships—as an ambassador for P&G beauty brands including CoverGirl, Olay, Pantene and Secret.

Sacramone’s involvement is in addition to P&G’s global marketing partnership with the International Olympic Committee (IOC) in support of the Olympic Movement, which will reach throughout the 2020 ■CW Olympic Games.

Category: Body care Launch: January 2012 Claims: From the creators of Burt’s Bees, this richly moisturizing body butter kicks dry skin to the curb with an eye-opening, get your mojo going scent of blood oranges and hyacinth.

Stats: $11.99

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cosmeticworldcalendar Subject: (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro

(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)

january JANUARY 30 - 31

Elements Showcase Skylight West • NYC (T) www.elements-showcase.com

JANUARY 30

Fragrance Foundation Elements Showcase Cocktail Party and Ceremony to Honor 2012 “Indie” FiFi Award Finalists & Winner Skylight West • NYC 7:00 PM (A) (R) (TA) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org

february FEBRUARY 8

Cosmetic Executive Women Young Executive Committee’s Cocktails & Connections: Speed Networking FIT • NYC 6:00 PM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

FEBRUARY 9

James E. Marshall OCD Foundation Beyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Maesa Group’s Jill Belasco, Kaplow’s Liz Kaplow and Scent Marketing Institute’s Caroline Pieper-Vogt Union League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (608) 845-3664

FEBRUARY 15

CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

march MARCH 4 - 5

Professional Beauty London ExCel Centre • London (T) info@mrapr.com www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

MARCH 7

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Product Demonstration Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (IO) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

MARCH 9

ICMAD Cosmoprof Bologna Reception Bologna, Italy www.icmad.org

Admission detail: (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available

Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show

JANUARY 31

Fragrance Foundation Hot Off the Press Breakfast in Partnership with NPD Group The Plaza • NYC 8:00 AM (S) (IO) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org

FEBRUARY 16

Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum with Ulta’s Chuck Ruben Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org ICMAD Technical/Regulatory Forum Balboa Bay Club • Newport Beach CA (M) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org

FEBRUARY 20 - 23

Beauty & Wellness Exchange Montage • Laguna Beach CA (T) (203) 202-2576 www.exchangeevents.com/beauty

FEBRUARY 22 - 24

Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting Ritz-Carlton • Naples FL (M) (202) 331-1770 www.personalcarecouncil.org

MARCH 13

March of Dimes Beauty Ball Honoring HSN’s Mindy Grossman and Fairchild’s Gina Sanders Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 353-1143 jcarlo@marchofdimes.com

MARCH 14

CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

MARCH 17 - 18

The Makeup Show LA California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com

MARCH 9 - 11

MARCH 22

Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com

CIBS Spring Cocktail Party 6:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

MARCH 9 - 12

MARCH 28 - 29

Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com

Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center • Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com

For future events check out cosmeticworldcalendar.com 16

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COSMETIC WORLD