Cosmetic World March 14, 2011
BULLETIN CREST TEAMS UP WITH AMANDA PEET
Amanda Peet with Alissa Fitzgibbons of P&G.
Crest has teamed up with actress Amanda Peet to launch two new additions to the Crest 3D White collection—Crest 3D White 2 Hour Express Whitestrips and -Continued on Page 59
SEPHORA APPOINTS DE LAPUENTE
www.cosmeticworld.com
Vol. XLVII / No. 5
INDUSTRY LEADERS MEET IN PALM BEACH
The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) held their annual meeting this year in Palm Beach, Florida from Feb 28March 2. Approximately 460 industry leaders gathered at The Breakers hotel to learn about innovative solutions, global markets, economic challenges and consumer branding strategies. For 2011, PCPC reenergized attendees by changing the venue and adding new and enhanced features such as the Policy Summit, which provided an opportunity for the manufacturing community and suppliers to hear about legislative and regulatory initiatives that
ETERNITY CELEBRATES SUMMER
Christopher de Lapuente has Two fresh scents are joining the Calvin been appointed global president Klein Eternity family this spring—keeping and CEO of Sephora, effective the original inspiration of the promise of -Continued on Page 59 lasting love and intimacy, but adding GIVAUDAN EXPANDS the essence of a soft glowing sun and NATURALS PROGRAM summer memories. Eternity Summer, a duo of limited edition fragrances, envelop bright colorful fields of wild flowers for her, and a warm breeze rustling through lush fields of grass for him. Opening into a fresh muguet bouquet surrounded by violet leaves Givaudan’s Michel Girard, Remi and an exhilarating Pulverail and Rodrigo Flores-Roux. accord of cilantro, Givaudan is adding two new Eternity Summer sustainable partnerships to its offers women Innovative Naturals program, the warm scent which will expand its ethical of a breezy -Continued on Page 59 summer day. BOND NO. 9 ADDS TO The heart is full NEIGHBORHOOD ROSTER of watery lotus lily and blossoming Madison Square, gardenia, and the base notes present a the park sand- seductive drydown of creamy musks and wiched between sparkling mimosa for a refreshing sensation. uptown and downTo capture the tranquility of the town, has recently summer sun, Eternity Summer for men re-emerged as a opens with a burst of ocean air accord -Continued on Page 58
®
-Continued on Page 58
PCPC’s Lezlee Westine and Louanne Roark with Heidi Manheimer of Shiseido (c.).
impact the industry. The first general session included presentations by Lezlee Westine, president -Continued on Page 50
BRANDS SHOWCASE BEST AT CEW DEMO
CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson and Jill Scalamandre.
The Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) welcomed over 2,000 guests to their 17 th annual Beauty Awards Product Demonstration at the Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman Building in New York City on March 9. Nearly 350 top beauty brands showcased more than 600 innovative products, hoping to be one of the 155 beauty award finalists chosen across 26 categories. CEW partnered with the NPD Group to make sure each product was entered into the appropriate category. “Being named a winner is a very high honor within the industry. Each product is entered because companies consider it their very best,” said Carlotta Jacobson, -Continued on Page 56
Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
49
INDUSTRY LEADERS MEET IN PALM BEACH -Continued from Page 49
P&G’s Ed Shirley and Elizabeth Arden’s Scott Beattie with Chuck Townsend of Condé Nast.
Clarins’ Jonathan Zrihen with Jerry Vittoria of Firmenich.
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Dan Brestle and Thia Breen.
Coty Beauty’s Karen Mileksi, Rick Goldberg, Annette Devita, George Cleary, Ralph Macchio and Laura Weinstein.
Givaudan’s Cos Policastro and Diane Crecca Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro with Marie Claire’s Ying of Arcade Marketing. Chu, Elle’s Emily Dougherty, More’s Genevieve Monsma and Amy Keller Laird of Allure.
and CEO of PCPC, and Dan Brestle, council chairman of PCPC, and focused on the industry’s major challenges and goals. “We need to better navigate the complexity of international markets in order to maximize growth and minimize risk,” said Brestle. “We also need to better understand communications. Americans now spend 117% more time online
than in the last five years, and over 906 million hours a month on social media networks, which they rely on to make many of their purchasing decisions.” One of the meeting’s keynote speakers, Joshua Cooper Ramo of Kissinger Associates, took the stage to discuss “the nature of the age.” -Continued on Page 52
The Dial Corporation’s Scott Moffitt with his wife Tami, Takasago’s Sean Traynor and George Ledes of Beauty Fashion.
Ed Shirley with Frederic Rozé of L’Oréal USA.
Avon’s Susan Arnot Heaney and Tom Sarakatsannis of L’Oréal USA.
Hearst Magazines’ Michael Clinton and Kevin O’Malley.
Arcade Marketing’s Larry Berman and Diane Crecca with Lauren Bitet and Cathy Torelli of Givaudan.
Johnson & Johnson’s Stefano Curti and May Shana’a with Bertil Heerink of Colipa.
COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com
George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com
Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com
Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com
Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com
For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 50
PHONE 212-840-8800 FAX 212-840-7246 WEB www.cosmeticworld.com Subscriptions: 800-304-8323 Production ext. 245
Circulation ext. 248
Accounting ext. 232
PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY: The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose. COSMETIC WORLD (ISSN0589 8447) has been published since 1966 for the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry, its manufacturers and retailers. COSMETIC WORLD is published bi-weekly except for the 1st week in January and July, by Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016 (212) 840-8800. Subscriptions: Domestic $175 one year, $325 two years, Foreign-(air mail) $250 one year, $450 two years. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to COSMETIC WORLD, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016
march 14, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
WHO SAYS SERIOUS SKIN CARE
HAS TO MEAN SERIOUSLY TIME-CONSUMING
SKIN CARE? I have more time in the morning! My skin is moisturized, protected and flawless, in one easy step! - Maryann, CA
Miracle Skin Transformer feels like silk to my skin. Love how h t my prep time! ti ! it shortens
© 2011 Miracle Skin Transformer
- Enita, MI
No more separate cover up, SPF, serums and moisturizer. - Vanessa, NY
Miracle Skin Transformer makes my skin look radiant! - Tempest, IL
Not women who use Miracle Skin Transformer. nsfform ns rme er. It’s a one step product that illuminates and mattifies skin, while visibly reducing pore size and imperfections. Blends seamlessly, immediately mmediately improving the complexion for flawless, fresher looking ooking skin.
www.miracleskintransformer.com
TM
INDUSTRY LEADERS MEET IN PALM BEACH -Continued from Page 50
Shiseido’s Joe Kendy and Nicholas Munafo of LVMH Fragrances.
American Cleaning Institute’s Ernie Rosenberg with his wife Karen (l.) and Chris Elshaw of Revlon.
Takasago’s Jonathan Warr and Neil Wasser with Dan Brestle (c.).
George Ledes with Larry Aiken, Lucille Duran and Lou Cona of Condé Nast.
P&G’s Charlene Patten and Kelly Vanasse.
IFF’s Doug Tough with Jerry Vittoria.
“There is a constant and persistent disruption in our world,” said Ramo. “There are more and more government systems emerging around the world and we are entering a period of difficult international balance. We need to think about the world with broader confidence, and realize we are more networked than ever before.” A CEO panel including Scott Beattie, chairman, president and CEO of Elizabeth Arden, Thia Breen, president of North America for The Estée Lauder Companies, and Stefano Curti, president of J&J Consumer Products Co. Beauty, reflected on the insights of Mr. Ramo, and
Elizabeth Arden’s Kathy Widmer with her husband Bob, and Art Spiro with his wife Beth (2nd r.).
Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline and Caroline Pieper-Vogt.
52
shared thoughts on the current state of the industry. “The top 10 brands represent 25% of the global market,” said Beattie. “Skin care is the fastest growing category, driven by emerging markets in the Asia Pacific, and Europe is three times larger in the fragrance market than the U.S.” Ms. Breen discussed her view of how the industry has changed since she joined The Estée Lauder Companies 30 years ago. “When I joined the company we had three brands. Now there are 29,” said Breen. “One of the biggest
Beiersdorf’s Robert Taylor-Hughes and Maria-Elena Tierno of CH2M Hill.
-Continued on Page 54
Meredith Corporation’s Pete Holfelder and Jim Carr (r.) with Erica Metzger of Ladies’ Home Journal and Melissa Goldstein of Better Homes & Gardens.
Seventeen’s Yesenia Almonte and Jayne Jamison with Jill Seelig and Patricia Foster of O, The Oprah Magazine.
PCPC’s Marti Rehal and Linda Marshall of Elysée Scientific Cosmetics.
march 14, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
INDUSTRY LEADERS MEET IN PALM BEACH -Continued from Page 52
Black Entertainment Television’s Louis Carr and Raymond Goulbourne with Pam Alabaster of L’Oréal USA.
Firmenich’s Roberto Olivi and Joy Atkinson.
Self’s Lauren Hulkower, Laura McEwen and Elaine D’Farley.
Google’s Kevin Kells, Elle Duncan and Ryan Olohan.
Lucky’s Jean Godfrey-June and Mary Zegras with Nicholas Munafo.
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Nancy Louden and John Hurson of PCPC.
changes I’ve seen is with the customer. We used to be able to manage the message to the customer, but today she creates her own using sites like YouTube.” Mr. Curti highlighted the restructuring of the way J&J beauty brands view globalization and marketing. “We need to understand consumer insights in China,” said Curti. “There is tremendous growth opportunity there and we are putting a lot of emphasis on that market.” The second general session opened with keynote speaker and futurist Jim Carroll, who emphasized the rapidity of consumer change and repeated one quote in
particular throughout his address, “The future belongs to those who are fast.” A new beauty editors panel featuring Ying Chu of Marie Claire, Emily Dougherty of Elle, Genevieve Monsma of More and Amy Keller Laird of Allure, seemed to continue with this topic, while also discussing upcoming trends and innovative business strategies for their respective magazines. Each of the editors agreed that innovation is the key, with features like interactive beauty product awards, makeup tutorials and iPad applications quickly gaining popularity among readers.
Women’s Health’s Ellen Cummings, Diane Malloy and Molly Nover-Baker with Brian Boyé of Men’s Health.
Energizer Personal Care’s Alice Koehler and Heather Inayart.
Harper’s Bazaar’s Colin Marshall, Alexandra Parnass, Christina Krolopp and Pamela Simon.
PCPC’s Meredith Simpson, Revlon’s Elise Aronson, Jonathan Martin of Politico and Betsy Fischer.
Vogue’s Amy Katz, Sarah Brown and David Stuckey.
Linda Marshall with Bobcar Experiential Media’s Benjamin Cohen and Annette Green.
54
■CW march 14, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
S O
F
C
E N
N A
T T
S U
R
E
R O B E R TET
BRANDS SHOWCASE BEST AT CEW DEMO -Continued from Page 49
Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe and Marsha Brooks with Yara Karmiloff of Givaudan (c.).
Arcade Marketing’s Larry Berman and Dave Teets (r.) with Alan Ennis and Annette Falso of Revlon.
CEI’s Justin Spiro, Givaudan’s Lauren Bitet and BlowPro’s Stuart Sklar with Tina Leeds of Coty Beauty and Joy Atkinson of Firmenich.
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Kathleen Pierce and Trenesa Stanford-Danuser.
president of CEW. “This year we have seen the anti-aging skin care and mascara categories expand exponentially, as well as the tools and applicators category. We also noticed that the amount of prestige and mass products are nearly equal.” The addition of the first-ever Eco Beauty Award, sponsored by Givaudan, recognizes companies’ efforts in the areas of sustainability. “More than 40 companies submitted products to be considered for this award and we’ve announced 10 finalists,” said Jacobson. “We’re seeing more and more beauty brands focus on sustainability to offset environmental impact, and consumers think it’s important.”
Clarins USA’s Krista Mehlbach, Tanya Pushkine and Kathleen Maloney.
The Indie Award recognizes independently-owned companies that are less than five years old, and received 26 entries this year. Hair care guru Living Proof was the winner in 2010. “We love Indie brands and are seeing many more of them nowadays,” said Jacobson. “Small companies and big companies are all innovating in different ways and it’s important for people to see that.” Over 4,000 CEW members vote to determine the finalists, and the CEW Board of Governors will select the winners, who will be announced at a star-studded luncheon on May 20 at the Waldorf=Astoria in New York City.
Bliss’ Mike Indursky and Katie Welch with Bruce Teitelbaum of The Royal Promotion Group (c.).
Beauty and Brains’ Rhona Stokols and Debra Holstein with Martha Basanta of Robertet.
Jacqueline Singer with Mark Knitowski of Victoria’s Secret Beauty.
NPD Group’s Judy Sone, Lori Monaco and Diane Nicholson.
56
Macy’s Mary Kohatsu, Linda Levy and Tasha Blackman.
Blue Sky Communications’ Morgan Henry and Olivia Porcello with Laura Geller of Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity (c.).
JHZ’s Jean Zimmerman with Agnes Chapski, Lauren Lerman and Doug Zimmerman of Allure. ■CW march 14, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
ETERNITY CELEBRATES SUMMER -Continued from Page 49
and a blend of citrus mint coriander. Within the heart lies the crispness of anise star and galbanum, which slowly ease into the warm base notes of cedarwood, red amber and patchouli. The Eternity signature flacon and outer packaging have been reimagined to include a color scheme that emulates the rays of the summer sun—casts of coral and pink shadows for her and botanical shades of green for him. Each 3.4 oz. eau de toilette spray is priced at $56.00 and will be available in stores and at calvinkleinfragrances.com beginning this month. ■CW
BOND NO. 9 ADDS TO NEIGHBORHOOD ROSTER -Continued from Page 49
chic, trendy, young enclave—worthy of a Bond No. 9 eau de parfum. Amid the lush greenery there are elegant hotels and hotspots like Shake Shack and Eataly drawing huge crowds. Created by IFF perfumer Laurent Le Guernec, Bond No. 9 Madison Square Park is a super-bright mélange of romantic florals and crisp greens. The scent opens with top notes of grape hyacinth, tangy huckleberry and prairie dropseed grass, and then moves into a heart of voluptuous red leaf rose and red hunter tulip. To add a note of quiet reflection, the fragrance closes with base notes of warm teakwood and vetiver root. The neon pink and green bottle, Bond No. 9’s most radical yet, mirrors the scent’s floral and green motif. Likewise, the neighborhood’s new fashion smarts are evident in both the bottle’s shocking fuchsia exterior and the removable green deco-moderne rose blossom bracelet that is wound around the cap. Available in mid-A pril, the fragrance will be priced at $240.00 for 3.4 oz., $170.00 for 1.7 oz. and $90.00 for a silver pocket spray. It will be sold at each of the four Bond No. 9 stores in New York, Saks Fifth Avenue and at bondno9.com. ■CW 58
SHISEIDO GIVES LIPS FULL BRILLIANCE AND SHEER COLOR Shiseido, and artistic director Dick Page, are introducing their newest creation, Shiseido Shimmering Rouge Lipstick. Providing a combination of abundant shimmer and sheer color, this lipstick is designed to deliver a dewy, moisturized feeling that lasts all day, while enhancing the natural plumpness of the lips. “My idea for the feeling of Shimmering Rouge is that it shouldn’t be too trendy or ‘junior,’ but rather that it should extend the scope of the original Perfect Rouge by offering a new, sophisticated take on shimmer and color,” said Page. With a diverse range of 13 shades from Alabaster— a luminous silver beige— to Sizzle—a vibrant tropical island coral—these lipsticks offer a unique hue for each woman. “It is about energy and color—it suits active and animated faces. Even if the occasion is formal, the face still expresses a vibrant beauty.” This rouge contains key ingredients that are responsible for immediate plumping effects, giving the lips fullness from the moment of application to even after cleansing. Photo-Smoothing Pearl, Shiseido’s exclusive dual-layer ingredient, is created by covering spherical powder with a layer of distinctive pearl. Because this ingredient is multi-dimensional instead of flat—
like conventional pearl elements—its light-dispersing effect is superior and can visually correct uneven vertical lip lines, giving lips a fuller look. Super-Bio Yeast Extract helps promote the production of fibroblasts that enhance the skin’s support mechanism, and collagen, which is critical for maintaining skin’s resilience. Developed with the aid of Shiseido’s most advanced biotechnology research, Super-Bio Yeast Extract was also discovered to have a dynamic antiaging element that also stimulates collagen and hyaluronic acid production. Th e m o i s t u r i z i n g ingredient, Super HyrdoW r a p Vi t a l i z i n g D E , contains an oil that blends well with water, giving it the ability to create a protective veil over the lips and replenish the skin with water while sealing in moisture. Consumer survey results from 97 women showed that 87% thought the lipstick felt moist against their lips, 89% thought it had a beautiful, shiny finish, and 93% felt that it seemed to melt into their skin. After two weeks of regular use, 84% saw a supple-looking finish and 73% reported that their bare lips had become softer. At $25.00 each, Shimmering Rouge is available online and at fine department and specialty stores. ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS ESTÉE LAUDER
Bronze Goddess Sea Star Bronzing Blush Category: Makeup Launch: March 2011 Claims: Inspired by long walks on the beach and treasured mementos from the sea, this limited edition illuminating blush is beautifully crafted to enhance any skin’s bronzed complexion with a perfectly warm, sun-kissed glow. Stats: $34.00 march 14, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
BULLETIN CREST WITH AMANDA PEET -Continued from Page 49
Crest 3D White Advanced Vivid Enamel Renewal Toothpaste. To celebrate the launch of these new products, Crest is donating up to 50 smile surgeries to Operation Smile, an international children’s non-profit organization that offers free surgical care for children worldwide who suffer from facial deformities such as cleft palates.
SEPHORA
-Continued from Page 49
March 31, 2011. He will be responsible for all regions worldwide, and will also become a member of LVMH’s executive committee. For European operations, he will succeed Jacques Levy who has chosen to retire. David Suliteanu will continue to lead Sephora USA. Mr. de Lapuente began his career in 1983 at Procter & Gamble and was most recently group president of their global hair division.
GIVAUDAN program -Continued from Page 49
sourcing initiatives to guarantee a sustainability supply of ylang ylang from Moheli, the smallest of the Comoros Islands, and vanilla from Madagascar. Givaudan is working with local producers and villages in these areas to safeguard traditional production techniques and enhance the quality of vanilla and ylang ylang used in fragrance compositions.
SKIN CANCER SCREENING TOUR RETURNS TO ROAD
The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Road to Healthy Skin Tour provides free full-body skin cancer screenings to the public. Returning to the road this month, the tour will travel across the country, making an estimated 85 stops in 25 states. At each stop, people can visit the customized RV to receive a quick and potentially life-saving full-body skin cancer screening by dermatologists who have donated their services to the Foundation. For the tour schedule and other interactive features, visit SkinCancer.org/Tour. march 14, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Maurice Raviol
John “Jack” Wilson
Maurice Raviol passed away at home on February 28 at the age of 84. His career in the fragrance industry spanned six decades and began just after World War II, where he served as an intelligence officer in the U.S. Army. Following the war, he was offered a position in the diplomatic corps of the U.S. State Department, but chose instead to join the private sector by accepting a position with Lautier in Grasse. Over the years, he held senior executive positions with a number of global fine fragrance companies, including having worldwide sales and development responsibilities for Polak Frutal Works and Robertet. At the time of his death, he was executive vice president of Polarome International and chairman of Les Poochs Inc. Mr. Raviol also applied his talents to non-business organizations. His expertise and knowledge of the global fragrance market led to his being elected vice president of the Essential Oil Association. He was also a founding member of the alumni association of the Lycée Français de New York. Maurice is survived by his wife, Antoinette, and son, Michel, and grandchildren, Fallon and Alexis.
John “Jack” Wilson died of natural causes on January 31 at The Villages in Florida. Jack was born in Aberdeen, Scotland on September 17, 1919 and immigrated to America in 1922. He joined the military in July 1941 and served as a lieutenant in the Air Force during World War II. He was flying a B-17 Flying Fortress in March 1944 when it was shot down over enemy territory and he was captured and imprisoned at Germany’s Stalag Luft 3 until the end of the war. In 1946, after graduating from Pace University, he joined Shulton Inc. While at Shulton, he held a number of positions including vice president and general manager when Shulton bought Carven Perfumes. When Carven merged with Jacqueline Cochran, he was named vice president of sales. He went on to own a worldwide military sales organization, Wilson Associates, which dealt in fragrances and cosmetics. He is survived by his wife of 63 years, Catherine, four children, John, Jim, Jane and Jeanne, and three grandchildren, James, Catherine and Katie.
NEWPRODUCTS BANANA REPUBLIC
SK-II
Wildbloom
Cellumination Mask-In Lotion
Category: Fragrance Launch: February 2011 Claims: Housed in a statuesque bottle with an oversized leather flower, this floral fruity eau de parfum captures the beauty of joy, optimism and spontaneity, while exuding effortless sensuality and magnetism. Key Notes: Guava, wild camellia, watery hydrangea, sandalwood and pink suede. Stats: 1.7 oz., $48.00
Category: Skin care Launch: March 2011 Claims: This unique everyday pre-lotion offers mask-like hydration benefits within 15 seconds of application, and is designed to deliver an intense dose of moisture while boosting skin’s radiance. Stats: $75.00 59
Julia Roberts
AWARD OF EXCELLENCE
Now, Aura is our science. Flawless finish, weightless feel.
TEINT MIRACLE
LIT-FROM-WITHIN MAKEUP - BUILDABLE COVERAGE
Discover the makeup miracle at lancome.com Receive your free 10-day supply at the Lancôme counter today. Available in 20 shades.
NEW