Cosmetic World august 8, 2011
BULLETIN
KENZO TAGS BLOOMINGDALE’S
Bloomingdale’s Howard Kreitzman with Nicholas Munafo of LVMH.
On July 27, Kenzo and Gotham Magazine hosted an event at Bloomingdale’s to celebrate the -Continued on Page 194
CARL HANEY JOINS ESTÉE LAUDER
Carl Haney, formerly of Procter & Gamble, will join The Estée Lauder Companies as executive
www.cosmeticworld.com
Vol. XLVII / No. 13
ALLURE LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE
Allure is upping the ante with their latest initiative: a website relaunch that marries content with sitewide e-commerce. Through Soap.com and Beautybar.com, allure.com users will be able to buy the products they discover in Allure’s award-winning content through one integrated shopping cart. “Knowing that women are focused and directed in their online behavior, we wanted a tool on the redesigned allure.com that personalizes the beauty experience—giving the user information and products that are right for her -Continued on Page 190
PHILIPS SHINES LIGHT ON ESTÉE LAUDER
-Continued on Page 194
GREAT LASH CELEBRATES 40 YEARS of beauty
Maybelline New York is introducing a special limitededition mascara collection in celebration of the 40th anniversary of Great Lash. -Continued on Page 192
CEW TO HONOR ACHIEVERS
On October 14, Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) will host the 2011 Achiever Awards in -Continued on Page 194
M·A·C COLLABORATES WITH PUGH Courtesy of Getty Images
Estée Lauder has partnered with Philips Lighting to continue building on their commitment to creating the perfect customer experience at the makeup counter. Most department store ambient lighting is designed for general visibility, and not for the special needs of beauty assessment. Gareth Pugh with John Demsey According to Nancy McKay, senior of The Estée Lauder Companies. vice president of sales and marketing at M·A·C Cosmetics and renowned Estée Lauder, the brand’s beauty advisors British fashion designer, Gareth would often struggle to find the perfect Pugh, hosted a cocktail event foundation match, and would sometimes -Continued on Page 194
®
-Continued on Page 192
GUERLAIN REJUVENATES SHALIMAR In 1920, Jacques Guerlain created what is now known today as a legendary fragrance, Shalimar. Today, Guerlain is introducing a fresh scent, Shalimar Parfum Initial, to offer a new gateway into the original enchantment for those who are too young to remember. T h i e r r y Wa s s e r , Guerlain’s perfumer, says the fragrance was inspired by his young niece, who was rather intimidated, but nonetheless fascinated by the historic masterpiece, and asked him to compose “a Shalimar just for her.” “It was a real challenge,” said Wasser, “allowing the perfume to evolve in time, 85 years after its creation, without distorting it and retaining the alchemy that makes it so desirable. I had to lighten but not disown the fragrance, transpose but not betray it. Create the future while honoring the past.” -Continued on Page 190
Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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ALLURE LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE -Continued from Page 189
alone—in a way that’s difficult to do in the pages of a magazine. That was our first priority with the Allure Beauty Product Finder,” said Linda Wells, editor in chief of Allure. “We also know that women shop from Allure by tearing out pages from the magazine and either going to a store or online to make their purchase.
mass and prestige,” said Wells. “It includes Best of Beauty and Readers’ Choice winners, as well as products that have not won awards, but have been covered in Allur e and on allure.com. New products will be added every month, and by the end of the year we’ll have close to 3,000 reviews.”
The idea of being able to do all of this easily on allure.com was our impetus. We really wanted a complete experience from information to realization and reward.” All products featured on the site— which averages 21 million page v i e w s p e r m o n t h — h av e b e e n researched and tested by Allure editors, and vetted by the magazine’s expert panel of cosmetic chemists, dermatologists, makeup artists and hairstylists. “More than 2,200 product reviews are currently in the product database, which reflects the way we cover beauty editorially, as a mix of
Users can save products to a favorites list, share with a friend, or click on “buy it now” to begin filling a shopping cart that will follow them through the site. Check-out is done through beautybar.com and gives customers access to their celebrated delivery system—all products will arrive in one to two days with three free beauty samples. Same-day delivery is available for New York City orders, and free shipping is offered for all orders over $39.00. “I think users will be excited that this is fun and incredibly fast,” said Wells. “It cuts through the beauty clutter with remarkable dexterity.” ■CW
COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com
George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com
Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com
Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com
Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com
For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 190
GUERLAIN REJUVENATES SHALIMAR -Continued from Page 189
The amber-floral fragrance was crafted on the basis of four ingredients that have been favored by Guerlain perfumers throughout the decades— centifolia rose, Italian iris, vanilla and tonka bean. Calabrian bergamot and hedione were added for a touch of freshness to complement the light aromas of caramel and warm fruit, and to support the vanilla in place of the original leathery accents. The advertising campaign, photographed by Paolo Roversi, features an elegant, nude portrait of Natalia Vodianova with a luxuriant tumble of hair and hint of smile. The bottle keeps true to the Baccarat crystal original designed by Raymond Guerlain, who was inspired by a Mughal fruit basket, like those that can be seen on the marble of Indian palaces. The bottle also retains the sapphire cabochon and silk fringe of the first, but the tassel is now grey blue and The ad campaign. the juice is a new shade of soft, powdery rose. Shalimar Parfum Initial is available this month in select specialty and department stores, and is priced at $119.00 for 3.4 oz., $84.00 for 2.0 oz. and $67.00 for 1.0 oz. ■CW
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PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY: The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose. COSMETIC WORLD (ISSN0589 8447) has been published since 1966 for the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry, its manufacturers and retailers. COSMETIC WORLD is published bi-weekly except for the 1st week in January and July, by Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016 (212) 840-8800. Subscriptions: Domestic $175 one year, $325 two years, Foreign-(air mail) $250 one year, $450 two years. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to COSMETIC WORLD, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016
august 8, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Thanks for 100 years of inspiration! As we celebrate our big anniversary, we thank all the rebels and visionaries who inspired us along the way. Wilbur and 0rville Wright (1867/1871) * Albert Einstein (1879) * Coco Chanel (1883) * Frank Lloyd Wright (1890) Walt Disney (1901) * Salvador Dali (1904) * Josephine Baker (1906) * Edith Piaf (1915) * J.D. Salinger (1919) Marlon Brando (1924) * Marilyn Monroe (1926) * Andy Warhol (1928) * Stanley Kubrick (1928) * Frank 0. Gehry (1929) Steve McQueen (1930) * James Dean (1931) * Sophia Loren (1934) * Yves Saint Laurent (1936) * Bruce Lee (1940) Pele (1940) * Vivienne Westwood (1941) * Bob Dylan (1941) * Jimi Hendrix (1942) * Muhammad Ali (1942) * Lou Reed (1942) Jim Morrison (1943) * Bob Marley (1945) * David Bowie (1947) * Twiggy (1949) * Richard Branson (1950) Jean-Paul Gaultier (1952) * Steve Jobs (1955) * The Beatles (1957) * Madonna (1958) * The Mini Cooper (1959) The Rolling Stones (1962) * Ferran Adria (1962) * Quentin Tarantino (1963) * The Clash (1976) * Nirvana (1987)
You all challenged the status quo, fought the conventional, rejected the norm.
we promise to
keep this spirit alive! munich
paris
new york
guangzhou
sydney
shanghai
s達o paulo
milan
amsterdam
hong kong
moscow
manchester
GREAT LASH CELEBRATES 40 YEARS of beauty -Continued from Page 189
As the official cosmetic sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Maybelline New York has partnered with three renowned fashion designers—Max Azria, Tracy Reese and Vivienne Tam—to create the limited edition collection. Each designer took inspiration from their own collections to create fresh takes on the original pink and green tube.
“Great Lash mascara is a timeless product; every woman knows the iconic green and pink packaging,” said Tracy Reese. “I was excited to design limited-edition packaging in celebration of the 40th anniversary and chose a graphic floral print that exudes fun and femininity, and complements the signature colors of the brand.” With a history embedded in fashion—designer Lily Pulitzer inspired the colorful tube in 1971— Great Lash is returning to its roots. “Great Lash has always been a favorite among leading makeup artists and industry insiders, whether they are working on a celebrity client or backstage at Fashion Week,” said David Greenberg, president of Maybelline New York-Garnier-Essie. “The designs of Max Azria, Tracy Reese and Vivienne Tam represent the spirit of the Maybelline New York woman—modern, confident ■CW and chic.” 192
PHILIPS SHINES LIGHT ON ESTÉE LAUDER -Continued from Page 189
even lead customers to the nearest window to use natural light. Faced with this challenge, Estée Lauder began a search for better instore lighting for its makeup counters in several department stores in the U.S. and Asia. Philips had conducted extensive research on shoppers and retail lighting, discovering that customers want lighting that is flattering, looks natural, and that resembles the setting for a particular occasion or time of day. They also studied the degree to which skin tone and cultural backgrounds impact lighting preferences, and as a result they were able to create a system that can instantly adjust the lighting to set the proper scene based on a diverse range of settings. “Philips understands how color, temperature and brightness affect skin tones,” said McKay. “They displayed an understanding of our customers and their needs. What Philips designed made sense, and was exactly what we were looking for.” The collaboration was unveiled at the Estée Lauder Beautiful Skin Studio,
a unique experience that features a personal consultation by a beauty advisor using lighting technology from Philips. The private studio space— first available at Lord & Taylor’s flagship store in New York City—enables customers and beauty advisors to choose the right foundation for the right lifestyle situation. The lighting solution is embedded in the studio’s mirrors and provides different levels and shades of white light—from very cool and bright to warm and cozy. The beauty advisor selects the desired scene for the customer—daylight, office light or evening light—by simply touching a button on a pre-programmed iPad. Based on the success of the initial installations—renovated counters have experienced a significant increase in sales—Estée Lauder has now implemented the new Philips Lighting-based Beautiful Skin Studio in three U.S. department stores, along with additional stores in Australia and Hong Kong, and have plans for many more. ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS DIOR
Rouge Serum Crystal Category: Makeup Launch: August 2011 Claims: This new collection of six shades is formulated with 10 times more active ingredients than a classic lipstick and features a sheer, glossy finish with all of the skin care benefits of the original Rouge Serum. Key Ingredients: Vitamin A, mango butter, centella asiatica extract and SPF 20. Stats: $34.00 each
MARC JACOBS OH, LOLA! Marc Jacobs Category: Fragrance Launch: August 2011 Claims: A sparkling, fruity floral, this feminine facet of the original Lola captures the flirtatious essence of her easy charm and sensual elegance. Key Notes: Raspberry, peony and vanilla. Stats: 3.4 oz., $88.00
august 8, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
COACH reveals new POPPY This fall, Coach is introducing a new Poppy to its fragrance collection— Coach Poppy Flower. Vibrant and lighthearted, the fragrance mixes bright fruits with soft florals to explore the romantic side of the Coach Poppy sensibility.
Retail Sales: July 2011 vs 2010 Select Specialty Stores (in $ millions) Limited Brands Neiman Marcus Nordstrom Saks Inc. Perfumania
July 2011 $660.4 $244.0 $993.0 $191.0 $18.1
% Change 6.6% 7.9% 11.5% 13.8% 7.9%
Same-Store Sales % 6.0% 7.7% 6.6% 15.6% 11.8%
% Change (2.3%) 8.0% 5.7%
Same-Store Sales % (1.6%) 9.0% 5.0%
July 2011 $1,122.0 $1,173.0 $1,600.0
% Change (2.9%) 1.0% 8.0%
Same-Store Sales % (4.6%) 3.3% 4.0%
July 2011 $6,740.0 $4,840.0
% Change 15.0% 5.6%
Same-Store Sales % 10.0% 4.1%
% Change 1.6% 4.7%
Same-Store Sales % 1.9% ■CW 2.7%
General Department Stores Bon-Ton Dillard’s Macy’s “There isn’t just one Poppy girl,” said Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide for The Estée Lauder Companies. “The Poppy Flower girl is youthful in spirit and always looking for magic and fun—a poppy in full bloom.” Designed to inspire a mood of whimsical beauty, the new scent takes fruits and florals to a unique place by layering them between fresh herbal notes and warm hints of musk and exotic woods. “ Po p p y continues to give us incredible inspiration, and the success of the existing Coach fragrances shows us that customers want The ad campaign. this tie to the brand,” said Khoury. “People are looking for emotional connections. They want the things they buy to make them happy, and Poppy Flower is just that.” The fragrance is available this month at Coach stores, coach.com and fine department stores, and is priced at $80.00 for 3.4 oz., $60.00 for 1.7 oz. and $42.00 for 1.0 oz. ■CW august 8, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
July 2011 $173.6 $458.5 $1,612.0
Popular Department Stores Kohl’s JC Penney TJX Companies
Mass Retailers Costco Target
Chain Drug Store Retailers Rite Aid Walgreens
July 2011 $1,916.0 $5,820.0
NEWPRODUCTS
CHANEL
SHISEIDO
Recourbe Cils De Chanel
Shimmering Cream Eye Color
Category: Tools Launch: August 2011 Claims: This limited edition precision eyelash curler creates beautiful lift and intense curves with an arc shape that fits perfectly against the eyelid to gently and safely sculpt each lash. Stats: $34.00
Category: Makeup Launch: August 2011 Claims: Inspired by Dick Page’s photography and travels around the globe, these twelve lightweight, long-wearing cream shadows glide over eyelids to create a luxurious and deeply pigmented look in an instant. Stats: $26.00 each
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BULLETIN KENZO TAGS BLOOMINGDALE’S -Continued from Page 189
exclusive launch of the new fragrance, Kenzo Flower Tag. “The addition of Flower Tag has breathed new life into a classic [Kenzo Flower],” said Nicholas Munafo, president of LVMH Fragrance Brands. “With this launch, we want to convey the core DNA of the Kenzo brand—that the world is beautiful, and the products will make you dream and smile.”
Graffiti artist Samske.
As shoppers mingled among cocktails, music, and a plethora of faux red poppies, graffiti artist Samske helped bring the art of graffiti and tagging to the world of perfume. With each Flower Tag purchase, customers received a personalized painted t-shirt.
CARL HANEY JOINS ESTÉE LAUDER -Continued from Page 189
vice president of global research and development, corporate product innovation and package development beginning January 1, 2012. He will succeed Harvey Gedeon, who has announced his intent to retire, and will report to Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of The Estée Lauder Companies. “Carl is a proven leader in R&D and innovation and has significant experience directing and guiding teams around the world,” said Freda. “His passion for innovation and extensive knowledge of locally relevant product development will build on our company’s considerable strengths and keep us on the cutting edge.” 194
CEW TO HONOR ACHIEVERS -Continued from Page 189
honor of Alberto Culver’s Gina Boswell, Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins, L’Oréal USA’s Leslie Marino and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore. Ouidad, founder of Ouidad, will receive The Great Idea Award, and The Corporate Empowerment for Women Award will be presented to P&G Beauty & Grooming.
M·A·C COLLABORATES WITH PUGH -Continued from Page 189
on July 20 to announce the Gareth Pugh for M·A·C Cosmetics collection, which will launch at retail in November 2011. Unconventional beauties enjoyed cocktails at the Penthouse Sky Room of New York City’s New Museum while mingling with John Demsey, group president of The Estée Lauder Companies, and Gareth Pugh to celebrate their color collaboration. Notables at the party included James Gager, Genevieve Jones, Mia Moretti, Katie Gallagher, Sophia Lamar, Patti Wilson, Michelle Harper and Rad Hourani.
FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION FORMS ‘INDIE’ COMMITTEE
The Fragrance Foundation has formed a specialized committee dedicated to developing the recognition, understanding and appreciation of indie fragrance brands and their creators. The “Indie” Fragrance Committee mission statement and purpose is to support the excellence, talent and artistry of indie perfumes, celebrate their individuality and craftsmanship, give a voice to the indie brands, and address any issues and concerns that are important to the group as a whole. “While niche fragrances have always been recognized at the annual FiFi Awards, we are keen to find a way to encourage more niche/ independent submissions by reaching out to the smaller, successful, entrepreneurial brands not supported by a large company,” said Rochelle Bloom,
president of The Fragrance Foundation. To fulfill the mission statement, Rochelle Bloom and Foundation vice president Mary Ellen Lapsansky reached out to a group of fragrance experts to form the “Indie” committee, enlisting their collective insight and experience of the niche/independent fragrance culture to contribute as an ongoing source of advice, judging criteria, overall support, future potential of the indie category and more. “Each and every committee member is absolutely in tune with this world, knows their needs and understands their dreams,” said Lapsansky. “We thank them for their support.” To see a list of members and learn more about the committee, visit ■CW fragrance.org.
NEWPRODUCTS STILA
Brighten & Correct Concealer Category: Makeup Launch: August 2011 Claims: Swirled with two shades—one for brightening and another for correcting— this innovative formula combines light-diffusing pigments, a unique mineral complex and Haloxyl to deliver lightweight, buildable coverage, while improving the skin’s look and feel. Stats: $28.00
CLEAN Skin Eau de Parfum Category: Fragrance Launch: August 2011 Claims: Perfect for nighttime, this soapy, yet creamy, musky fragrance captures the pure scent of warm skin that you want to get close to and nuzzle. Key Notes: Sheer honeydew, dewy petals, blue rose and white musk. Stats: 2.14 oz., $69.00 august 8, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
cosmeticworldcalendar Subject: (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro
(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)
AUGUST
Admission detail: (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available
Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show
AUGUST 10
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
AUGUST 15 - 16
Elements Showcase Skylight Studios West • NYC (T) www.elements-showcase.com
AUGUST 14 - 18
EX•TRACTS at NYIGF Javits Center • NYC (T) (800) 272-SHOW www.extractsny.com
SEPTEMBER
SEPTEMBER 11 - 14
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum: A Conversation with Avon’s Andrea Jung Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org ICMAD Young Designer Awards Dinner Twenty Four Fifth • NYC 6:30 PM (800) 334-2623 www.icmad.org
SEPTEMBER 14 - 15
SEPTEMBER 22
Beyond Beauty Paris Porte de Versailles • France (T) www.beyondbeautyparis.com
SEPTEMBER 14
ICMAD Financial Workshop: Raising Capital for Your Company Friars Club • NYC 2:00 PM (TA) (S) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org
Fashion Group International Retail Symposium and the Robin Report Luncheon New York Hilton • NYC 11:15 AM (S) (212) 302-5511 www.fgi.org Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Annual Open Dinner Westmount Country Club • W. Paterson NJ 6:00 PM (R) (TA) (732) 922-0500 www.wffc.org American Cancer Society DreamBall Honoring Allure’s Linda Wells and Clarins’ Jonathan Zrihen Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 7:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 237-3915 www.thedreamball.org
OCTOBER 4
OCTOBER 14
MakeUp in New York Studio 450 • NYC (T) www.makeup-in-newyork.com
SEPTEMBER 18 -23
Tax Free World Exhibition Palais des Festivals • Cannes France (T) www.tfwa.com
SEPTEMBER 21
october
Fragrance Foundation Circle of Champions Honoring Bath & Body Works’ Camille McDonald St. Regis • NYC 5:30 PM Members Only (A) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
OCTOBER 12
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
OCTOBER 13
Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Fall Seminar Saddle Brook Marriott • Saddle Brook NJ 8:00 AM (S) (TA) (732) 922-0500 www.wffc.org
Cosmetic Executive Women Achiever Awards Luncheon Honoring Alberto Culver’s Gina Boswell, Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins, L’Oréal USA’s Leslie Marino and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (A) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
OCTOBER 18
Fragrance Foundation “Pop Your Cork” Wine & Food Tasting Event City Winery • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (TA) (212) 725-2755 x103 www.fragrance.org
OCTOBER 19-21
Luxe Pack Monaco Grimaldi Forum • Monaco (T) www.luxepack.com
For more events check out cosmeticworldcalendar.com august 8, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
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