Cosmetic World august 22, 2011
BULLETIN
MCDONALD TO ENTER CIRCLE OF CHAMPionS
The Fragrance Foundation’s 12th annual Circle of Champions will honor Camille McDonald, -Continued on Page 202
MST JOINS ACMG
Atlantic Coast Media Group (ACMG) announced the acquisition of Sarah McNamara’s Miracle Skin Transformer (MST), which -Continued on Page 202
YOUNG FRIENDS OF THE DREAMBALL
Clarins’ Erin Cohen and American Cancer Society’s Kari Siegel with Louanne Roark of Personal Care Products Council.
Th e Yo u n g Fr i e n d s o f t h e DreamBall hosted a cocktail party at the Clarins Skin Spa in -Continued on Page 202
TPR ANNOUNCES NEW APPOINTMENTS
TPR Holdings has appointed three new executives to its management team. Ron Gee, -Continued on Page 202
BENEFIT TO OPEN NYC FLAGSHIP Benefit Cosmetics, the free-spirited beauty brand known for its creative packaging and instant beauty solutions,
-Continued on Page 201
www.cosmeticworld.com
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Vol. XLVII / No. 14
ELEMENTS SHOWCASE HOSTS FRAGRANCE FORUM Elements Showcase and W magazine hosted their first-ever fragrance forum to discuss the theme of “Fragrance as Design” in New York City on August 16. The Elements Showcase—a unique exhibition that presents elite fragrances to industry insiders and connects niche companies with leading buyers and key media—brought together a panel of fragrance and design experts to touch upon a variety of topics from sources of inspiration to bloggers. Moderator Jane Larkworthy, beauty director at W, welcomed guests to the -Continued on Page 198
Anthropologie’s Melissa Green, Susanne Kaufmann’s Bea von Thurn und Taxis, Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe, Takasago’s Patricia Choux, Douglas Hannant and Jane Larkworthy of W.
LA PRAIRIE INTRODUCES CELLULAR POWER CHARGE NIGHT
GIVENCHY UNVEILS MYSTERY OF DAHLIA NOIR
In spring 2011, La Prairie introduced a potent elixir to help awaken the power of the skin—Cellular Power Infusion. Now, to add to this revolutionary anti-aging line, the brand is launching a nighttime treatment— Cellular Power Charge Night—that combines Retinol, a skin renewal peptide, oxygen and more to recharge the skin’s cells and reduce lines, wrinkles and age spots during sleep. “During the night, our body is in repair, renew and replenish mode; this is true for the skin as well,” said Lynne Florio, president of La Prairie. “Our scientists have created Cellular Power Charge Night to take advantage of this resting status to help our customers fight aging around the clock. After all, there’s no rest for the weary. . . or the skin.”
Dahlia Noir, the first fragrance to be developed by Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci, embodies a mysterious and romantic woman. Blending thoughts of inspiration from his cultural background in his native Italy, Tisci brings a theatrical sensibility to his interpretations of neoclassicism and the ambivalence associated with beauty. The Black Dahlia, a novel by James Ellroy published in 1987, served as inspiration for the fragrance—the olfactory aura of an imaginary woman, a seductive black angel, a couture heroine emanating a dark softness. “ D a h l i a N o i r t a k e s G i v e n c hy fragrance in a new couture direction,” said Nicholas Munafo, president of
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Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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ELEMENTS SHOWCASE HOSTS FRAGRANCE FORUM -Continued from Page 197
forum and showcase, or “olfactory factory,” as she described it. “The fragrance category needs to be encouraged, supported and celebrated, and events like these are a step in the right direction,” said Larkworthy. Panelists included Patricia Choux of Takasago; Melissa Green of Anthropologie; fashion designer Douglas Hannant; Ruth Sutcliffe of Coty; and Bea von Thurn und Taxis of Susanne Kaufmann.
in the spring. “She wants something special, she wants to stand out. Mass has hit its peak, and I strongly believe in quality over quantity.” Ms. Sutcliffe added, “I understand the needs of people in the U.S. and around the world who want to smell great, but can only afford a $19.99 fragrance in the mass market. I love and appreciate the niche market, and I know there is a yearning to smell unique and feel special, but there needs to be an option for the shopper
Elements Showcase’s Frederick Bouchardy and Ulrich Lang (r.) with Liz Morina and Jane Larkworthy of W.
FIT’s Virginia Bonofiglio with Nicolas Mirzayantz and Veronique Ferval.
Parlux Fragrances’ Vivian Schlogel and Patrick Etchaubard of Gerresheimer.
The Fragrance Foundation’s Lyn Leigh and Amy Rubin.
Bond No. 9’s Laurice Rahme.
Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics’ Joe Garces and Anatole Flahault.
“Inspiration comes from having an open mind and curiosity,” said Choux. “I’m also inspired by food and traveling, open markets and exhibitions. The last exhibit from Alexander McQueen—that was a wow moment for me.” In terms of mass vs. prestige, Ms. Sutcliffe and Mr. Hannant gave varied opinions. “I know my customer very well, and I know her taste level,” said Hannant, who introduced his first fragrance
that can only spend so much.” To touch on the topic of blogging, a majority of the panelists contributed positive remarks. “Bloggers have been very positive for the Anthropologie brand,” said Green. “They are more of a marketing vehicle for us right now, rather than a source of feedback on design, but nonetheless they are honest and a key to our ■CW growth moving forward.”
COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com
George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com
Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com
Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com
Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com
For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 198
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august 22, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Thanks for 100 years of inspiration! As we celebrate our big anniversary, we thank all the rebels and visionaries who inspired us along the way. Wilbur and 0rville Wright (1867/1871) * Albert Einstein (1879) * Coco Chanel (1883) * Frank Lloyd Wright (1890) Walt Disney (1901) * Salvador Dali (1904) * Josephine Baker (1906) * Edith Piaf (1915) * J.D. Salinger (1919) Marlon Brando (1924) * Marilyn Monroe (1926) * Andy Warhol (1928) * Stanley Kubrick (1928) * Frank 0. Gehry (1929) Steve McQueen (1930) * James Dean (1931) * Sophia Loren (1934) * Yves Saint Laurent (1936) * Bruce Lee (1940) Pele (1940) * Vivienne Westwood (1941) * Bob Dylan (1941) * Jimi Hendrix (1942) * Muhammad Ali (1942) * Lou Reed (1942) Jim Morrison (1943) * Bob Marley (1945) * David Bowie (1947) * Twiggy (1949) * Richard Branson (1950) Jean-Paul Gaultier (1952) * Steve Jobs (1955) * The Beatles (1957) * Madonna (1958) * The Mini Cooper (1959) The Rolling Stones (1962) * Ferran Adria (1962) * Quentin Tarantino (1963) * The Clash (1976) * Nirvana (1987)
You all challenged the status quo, fought the conventional, rejected the norm.
we promise to
keep this spirit alive! munich
paris
new york
guangzhou
sydney
shanghai
s達o paulo
milan
amsterdam
hong kong
moscow
manchester
GIVENCHY UNVEILS MYSTERY OF DAHLIA NOIR -Continued from Page 197
LVMH Fragrance Brands. “Like Riccardo Tisci’s fashion creations, Dahlia Noir strikes a fine balance between femininity, sophistication, and darkness. It is the quintessence of the Givenchy style.” Perfumer François Demachy dipped into Riccardo Tisci’s imagination to create a floral chypre based on rose, iris and mimosa, and enriched with utterly contemporary woody facets of sandalwood and patchouli. Its powdery notes evoke maternal gentleness and a traditional vision of femininity to convey a sentimental quality. The bottle, designed by Fabian Baron, adds to the mystery of the scent as it never completely reveals its identity. The name ‘Dahlia Noir’ is only discovered on the back side of the cap, mimicking a secret inscription on a silver metal plaque. “The bottle seems timeless—solid yet delicate like the fragrance it contains, like the Dahlia Noir woman herself. She is multi-faceted and a bit complicated,” said Munafo. “The juxtaposition of the sharpness of the bottle and the cap against the nude juice express the deliberate contradiction of the fragrance.” Fashion photographers Mert Alas
and Marcus Piggott created the advertising imagery—Italian model Mariacarla Boscono in a black chiffon dress designed by Riccardo Tisci to capture the spirit of an intriguing flower.
“Mariacarla Boscono embodies Dahlia Noir, as she is the ideal woman, a perfect blend of femininity and mystery,” said Munafo. “Riccardo Tisci’s long-standing friendship with Mariacarla is evident in this fragrance as it embodies all that he is known for.” Dahlia Noir eau de parfum is available this month exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, and is priced at $90.00 for 1.7 oz. and $110.00 for 2.5 oz. ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS
FENDI PARFUMS Fan di FENDI
BEBE bebe gold
Category: Fragrance Launch: August 2011 Claims: This modern and irresistible fragrance is fresh, luminous, sensual and addictive, and encompasses all the values and elegance of the House of Fendi. Key Notes: Pear, blackcurrant accord, Damascena rose and patchouli from Indonesia. Stats: 1.7 oz., $76.00; 2.5 oz., $92.00
Category: Fragrance Launch: August 2011 Claims: Inspired by the glamour and mystery of the bebe woman, this alluring eau de parfum is a radiant blend of fresh florals, sensual sandalwood and golden amber. Key Notes: Pink pepper, juniper berries, Egyptian jasmine, and opoponax. Stats: .33 oz., $12.00; 1.7 oz., $49.50; 3.4 oz., $65.00
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LA PRAIRIE INTRODUCES CELLULAR POWER CHARGE NIGHT -Continued from Page 197
According to La Prairie, although Retinol has been used in many products over the years, the use of an oxygen carrier with it is new. The brand’s scientists knew that an optimum level of oxygen in the skin would enhance the cell turnover process stimulated by Retinol, but stability issues between the oxygen and Retinol have prevented the merging of the two in past formulas. Now, these same scientists have resolved the issue by placing the two ingredients in separate chambers, side by side, which allows the consumer to control the release of each and blend them together before application. “The skin needs oxygen to look and perform at its youngest and its best, and it’s known that oxygellevels drop as the skin ages,” said Holly Genovese, vice president of training and retail marketing for La Prairie. “One of the mechanisms for recharging the skin is enhancing the oxygen level, which in turn supports the cell turnover process. This is accomplished in Cellular Power Charge Night via an oxygen transfer agent called Perfluorodecalin (PFD), which secures oxygen from the atmosphere, stores it and delivers it to the skin as needed, therefore supporting the skin’s self-regulation.” The formula also includes a hydration system to address the possibility of the skin becoming drier as a result of the stimulating effect of Retinol. Other ingredients such as grapefruit cell extract and Vitamin E offer anti-oxidant protection, and sunflower seed oil helps to maintain the skin’s lipid barrier overnight. Cellular Power Charge Night will be available in September at select specialty and department stores and laprairie.com, and will be priced at $475.00 for 1.35 oz. ■CW
august 22, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
BENEFIT TO OPEN NYC FLAGSHIP -Continued from Page 197
is bringing a piece of its San Francisco base to New York City. The tri-level flagship boutique, set to open in Soho in September, will aim to give customers the truest Benefit brand experience, surrounded by laughter and fun. “We wanted to bring the feel of the original San Francisco beauty
The new boutique—2,000 sq. ft. including the Beauty Loft which will be used for special events and training—will have a modern feel with a nod to the past, and will be furnished with cream-colored cabriolet leg tables, makeup-stuffed armoires and crystal chandeliers. Hand-painted wallpaper in pink, black and white
Jean and Jane Ford, co-founders of Benefit Cosmetics.
will be accented with rosy neon florals and a sleek tiled floor. “The Benefit Boutique Soho will be a hotspot for on-the-spot “make-uppers,” tips and tricks, and our famed instant beauty solutions,” said Jane Ford, co-founder of Benefit Cosmetics. “Customers can drop in anytime for our world famous ‘signature’ brow
shaping technique service, plus lash and brow tinting, body and facial waxing and airbrush tanning. Benefit has been arching brows for over 30 years, and through our Boutiques and Brow Bars we are the largest employer of aestheticians in the world.” The brand now has over 400 Brow Bars in select department stores and Ulta stores around the U.S., and 16 Boutiques outside the U.S. (12 in the U.K., 2 in Hong Kong, 1 in China and 1 in Australia). This fall, Benefit will have 17 Boutiques in the U.S., which includes the new space in New York City. ■CW
ESSIE’S BRAND NEW BAG FOR FALL
NEWPRODUCTS
Essie’s fall collection, on counter this month, consists of six rich, creamy shades from camel to merlot that pay homage to the glorious world of gorgeous handbags, classic sophistication and a return to ladylike glamour. Reminiscent of autumn, with complex colors that are a throwback to the fashions of the 40’s and 50’s, the new collection was inspired by the clean lines and simple elegance of post-war styles— classic shades reinvented for modern times. “The accessories that you wear and carry say so much about who you are and who you want to be,” said Essie Weingarten, founder of Essie Cosmetics. “The same is true with your manicure and your nail
Category: Makeup Launch: August 2011 Claims: This gorgeous palette of ten high-payoff, sultry, nude eyeshadows features a formula that is easy to blend and delivers cosmic amounts of “diamond dust” shimmer that adhere to skin to provide longlasting, sophisticated shine. Stats: $28.00
shop into our Benefit Boutique Soho,” said Jean Ford, co-founder of Benefit Cosmetics. “It’s very much a girl’s locker room atmosphere— where beauty banter thrives and laughter is the best cosmetic. It’s where you and your girlfriends drop in for your one stop beauty shop— makeup and brows.”
august 22, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
color. The first thing a person notices when they meet you for the first time are: your shoes, your handbag and your nails.” ■CW
SEPHORA collection Moonshadow Baked Palette In The Nude
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BULLETIN circle of champions -Continued from Page 197
president of brand development and merchandising for Bath & Body Works. The event will take place on October 4 at the St. Regis in New York City.
MST JOINS ACMG
-Continued from Page 197
will join the beauty company’s roster of brands including Hydroxatone, Keranique, Luminique and DNA. Sarah McNamara Beauty New York will be a new division of ACMG that will house the Miracle Skin Transformer line, which is set to launch in Sephora next month. “What Sarah has been able to accomplish with MST over the last 18 months is remarkable,” said Andrew Surwilo, co-founder/CEO of ACMG. “Our goal is to maintain the brand’s distinctiveness and augment its reach with our unique distribution model and national media campaigns.”
YOUNG FRIENDS
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New York City to spread the word about the first-ever DreamBall After Dark party. Event chairmen, Erin Cohen of Clarins, Liana Engel of Guerlain, and Stephanie and Jesse Newhouse of Condé Nast, invite guests to join them at Cipriani 42nd Street following
Guerlain’s Liana Engel with Condé Nast’s Stephanie and Jesse Newhouse and Erin Cohen of Clarins.
the DreamBall for cocktails, dessert and dancing to the music of DJ Harley VieraNewton. Clarins’ Tanya Pushkine Tickets are with Blair Crames of Avon. $175.00 per person, and all proceeds will benefit the Look Good…Feel Better program of the Personal Care Products Council 202
and the American Cancer Society. “This event is a great way for young people in the beauty industry and beyond to get involved and generate awareness for an important cause,” said Cohen. “Not only will it raise crucial funds, but it’s going to be a fantastic party.” Fo r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n , v i s i t thedreamball.org.
TPR’s new APPOINTMENTS -Continued from Page 197
formerly of L’Oréal, has been named chief financial officer for all TPR brands and will report to TPR president Brian Robinson and COO Stuart Litman. Marni Cassuto has been appointed transition director for Freeze 24▪7, a brand that she worked with under its previous ownership as head of the marketing department, and will also report to Mr. Robinson. Elizabeth Kopelman has been named vice president of international sales. She joins the team from Parfums de Coeur where she led the international sales department, and will now report to TPR international president, Nicholas Ratut. ■CW
PEOPLE & PROMOTIONS CAROL’S DAUGHTER
Olivia Scott-Perkins has been named chief marketing officer of Carol’s Daughter. CEO Richard Dantas tapped Ms. Scott-Perkins to drive the brand’s evolution across branding, design, advertising and product development.
ELIZABETH ARDEN
Doug Huffmyer, formerly of Avon Products, has joined Elizabeth Arden as vice president and creative director.
NYX PROFESSIONAL MAKEUP
Scott Friedman has been appointed CEO of NYX Professional Makeup. Mr. Friedman brings more than 15 years of industry experience to the role, formerly held by Toni Ko, who will transition to founder and chief creative director.
NEWPRODUCTS MALLY BEAUTY Undermakeup Perfector Duo Category: Makeup Launch: August 2011 Claims: Available in two shades— peach light and peach deep—this 2-step pre-makeup duo enhances the face to create the perfect canvas with a corrector pen to eliminate dark areas, and a highlighter pen to illuminate key areas. Stats: $29.00
KORRES Wild Rose Mineral Illuminating Powder Category: Makeup Launch: August 2011 Claims: This ultra-sheer powder illuminates the face with a skin-perfecting veil of reflective minerals, imparting a natural litfrom-within glow and highlighting facial features for a flawless finish. Stats: $18.00
LESLIE WELLER PASSES ON Leslie Weller passed away on August 2 at the age of 74. Ms. Weller worked at Elizabeth Arden from 1972-2001, and became the company’s public relations director in 1983. KL by Karl Lagerfeld, Red Door, and the original fragrance for Fendi, were a few of the launches that she worked on during her tenure at Elizabeth Arden. She is survived by her husband, Charles; brother, Donald Gould; niece, Amy Callahan and nephew, Chris Gould. august 22, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
cosmeticworldcalendar Subject: (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro
(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)
SEPTEMBER
Admission detail: (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available
Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show
SEPTEMBER 11 - 14
Beyond Beauty Paris Porte de Versailles • France (T) www.beyondbeautyparis.com
SEPTEMBER 14
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
SEPTEMBER 14 - 15
MakeUp in New York Studio 450 • NYC (T) www.makeup-in-newyork.com
SEPTEMBER 18 -23
Tax Free World Exhibition Palais des Festivals • Cannes France (T) www.tfwa.com
SEPTEMBER 21
HBA Re-Connect Virtual Trade Show 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM (609) 659-7617 www.hbaexpo.com/reconnect ICMAD Financial Workshop: Raising Capital for Your Company Friars Club • NYC 2:00 PM (TA) (S) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org
october OCTOBER 4
Fragrance Foundation Circle of Champions Honoring Bath & Body Works’ Camille McDonald St. Regis • NYC 5:30 PM Members Only (A) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
OCTOBER 11
Skin Cancer Foundation Skin Sense Award Gala Plaza Hotel • NYC 6:00 PM (A) (TA) (212) 725-5176 www.skincancer.org/events
OCTOBER 12
Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum: A Conversation with Avon’s Andrea Jung Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org ICMAD Young Designer Awards Dinner Twenty Four Fifth • NYC 6:30 PM (800) 334-2623 www.icmad.org
SEPTEMBER 22
Fashion Group International Retail Symposium and the Robin Report Luncheon New York Hilton • NYC 11:15 AM (S) (212) 302-5511 www.fgi.org Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Annual Open Dinner Westmount Country Club • W. Paterson NJ 6:00 PM (R) (TA) (732) 922-0500 www.wffc.org American Cancer Society DreamBall Honoring Allure’s Linda Wells and Clarins’ Jonathan Zrihen Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 7:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 237-3915 www.thedreamball.org Young Friends of the DreamBall DreamBall After Dark Party Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 9:30 PM (TA)
OCTOBER 14
Cosmetic Executive Women Achiever Awards Luncheon Honoring Alberto Culver’s Gina Boswell, Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins, L’Oréal USA’s Leslie Marino and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (A) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
OCTOBER 18
Fragrance Foundation “Pop Your Cork” Wine & Food Tasting Event City Winery • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (TA) (212) 725-2755 x103 www.fragrance.org
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
OCTOBER 19-21
drom Insider’s Secrets Exhibition Party NYC 7:00 PM (R) (IO)
OCTOBER 20
OCTOBER 13
Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Fall Seminar Saddle Brook Marriott • Saddle Brook NJ 8:00 AM (S) (TA) (732) 922-0500 www.wffc.org
Luxe Pack Monaco Grimaldi Forum • Monaco (T) www.luxepack.com CIBS Fall Cocktail Party NYC 6:00 PM (TA) www.cibsonline.com
OCTOBER 24 - 26
Color Cosmetics Summit Maritim Hotel • Berlin Germany (T) www.eminentmarkets.com
For more events check out cosmeticworldcalendar.com august 22, 2011
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futur • fracas • bandit • cravache • baghari • visa • calypso • douglas hannant