Cosmetic World october 10, 2011
BULLETIN
AJC HONORS AGON
Bloomingdale’s Michael Gould with Jean-Paul Agon and Sir Lindsay Owen-Jones of L’Oréal.
Je a n - Pa u l A g o n , L’ O r é a l ’s chairman and CEO, received the American Jewish Committee -Continued on Page 239
PACO RABANNE STRIKES GOLD in nyc
Paco Rabanne’s “Lady Million” and “One Million Man” with their bodyguards in front of Sephora 5th Avenue.
Paco Rabanne’s One Million and Lady Million fragrances kicked off their launch in Macy’s -Continued on Page 239
BOBBI BROWN LAUNCHES ‘PRO’GRAM
Inspired by professional makeup artists, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics is introducing Bobbi Brown Pro, -Continued on Page 239
ICMAD HONORS YOUNG DESIGNERS
Bare Escentuals’ Leslie Blodgett and ICMAD’s Pam Busiek with the honorees.
The Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers & Distributors Association (ICMAD) celebrated -Continued on Page 239
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Vol. XLVII / No. 17
MCDONALD ENTERS CIRCLE OF CHAMPIONS The Fragrance Foundation inducted Camille McDonald, president of brand development and merchandising for Bath & Body Works, into the Circle of Champions at a dinner ceremony on October 4. Held at the St. Regis in New York City, the event honors one individual each year for their notable impact on the fragrance industry. “We are here to honor an icon in the fragrance and beauty industry,” said Rochelle Bloom, president of The Fragrance Foundation. “Nobody is busier than Camille McDonald, yet she
Bath & Body Works’ Camille McDonald with Rochelle Bloom of The Fragrance Foundation.
always finds the time to mentor and help others whenever they ask. She -Continued on Page 234
TAYLOR SWIFT INTRODUCES WONDERSTRUCK
PITTI PRESENTS LUXURY NICHE
G r a m m y awa r d winning singer/ songwriter Taylor Swift has partnered with Elizabeth Arden to launch her first signature fragrance, Wonderstruck. Drawing inspiration from Swift’s personal life, the fragrance keeps true to an eclectic and traditional aesthetic, making every element of the brand authentic. The name Wonderstruck comes from the song “Enchanted” on Swift’s current album, Speak Now, and suggests the awe-inspiring feeling that comes from experiencing something magical, especially the rush of an instant connection with someone. “I wrote the lyric, ‘I’m wonderstruck, blushing all the way home,’ for the song ‘Enchanted’ about the first time you meet someone,” said Swift. “A fragrance can help shape someone’s first impression and memory of you. It’s exciting to think that Wonderstruck will play a role in creating some of those memories.”
Celebrating its ninth year, the Pitti Immagine show took place in Florence, Italy from September 9-11. Viewed as one of the most important international shows for luxury fragrance and beauty products, this year’s show featured 194 brands (including brand owners and their distributors), which underscored not only the growth of the category, but also how it has matured. Visitors to the show were predominantly Italian retailers and international fragrance buyers, so it is a bit of an anomaly for those of us who have been weaned on the North American markets, where shows are strictly the habitat of manufacturers. In fact, it is also considered a venue where the “description” of the perfume designer is used quite liberally. Because
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Lorenzo and Ludovica Villoresi.
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Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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MCDONALD ENTERS CIRCLE OF CHAMPIONS -Continued from Page 233
IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz with Nest Fragrances’ Laura Slatkin and Harry Slatkin of Slatkin & Co.
Givaudan’s Cathy Torelli with Camille McDonald and Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca.
Firmenich’s Armand de Villoutreys and Jerry Vittoria with Henry de Monclin of HDM Designs (c.).
Givaudan’s Cos Policastro with Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates.
IFF’s Laurent Le Guernec, Olivier Delcour and Lorenzo Cavallaro with Rochelle Bloom.
Aramis & Designer Fragrances’ Andrea Goris and Saks Fifth Avenue’s Deborah Walters with Barbara Zinn-Moore of Lord & Taylor.
always looks at the glass as half full.” Keeping with the induction tradition, McDonald sat on stage in front of family, friends and industry guests as her fellow colleagues presented the custom “roast.” In a room full of laughter, master of ceremonies Don Loftus, president and CEO of P&G Prestige U.S., said, “We are here to honor and dishonor Camille McDonald, one of our industry’s finest, as she joins an illustrious list of previous honorees, such as Ann Gottlieb and John Ledes.” McDonald’s “roasters”—Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria, Bath & Body Works’ So Young Kang and Givaudan’s Cos Policastro—poked fun at their personal experiences
SGD’s Ashok Sudan and Sheherezade Chamlou with Ron Rolleston of Elizabeth Arden.
with Camille, but also honored her extraordinary vision, creativity and passion for her work. “I will describe Camille as I describe a fragrance,” said Policastro. “She is an exceptional blend of qualities that draws you in and leaves you wanting more. She is a perfume that touches all of us. Who is Camille? A classic.” As McDonald accepted her award, thanking her “roasters” for their kind, and humorously unkind words, she said, “Fragrance is the most powerful, invisible thing in this universe besides love, and the power of our own heartbeat. How lucky are we to be in charge of creating and selling it? This is definitely one of the proudest moments of my career.”
Mane’s Frederic Jacques and Thierry Trotobas with Stephane de la Faverie of Aramis & Designer Fragrances.
COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com
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Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com
Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com
For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 234
Cosmopolitan’s Donna Kalajian Lagani and Sue Katzen with Don Loftus of P&G Prestige (c.).
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october 10, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Givaudan’s Piero Savio, Karen Elliott and Melissa Gambill with So Young Kang of Bath & Body Works (2nd r.).
Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes and Aramis & Designer Fragrances’ Carol Russo with Howard Kreitzman of Bloomingdale’s.
Arcade Marketing’s Larry Berman and Rich Nightingale with Art Spiro of Elizabeth Arden (c.).
Mane’s Bertrand Dor and Ruth Sutcliffe of Coty.
Takasago’s Jaime Call, Bill Evans and Linda Romberger.
Firmenich’s Harry Fremont, Honorine Blanc and Hervé Pierini.
Suzanne Martin with Cutler Whitman of Fragrance Resources.
Arcade Marketing’s Marine Ravera with Tanya Pushkine and Jill Liebmann of Clarins.
Robertet’s Jerome Epinette and Pierre Wulff with Yves Calderone of Limited Brands (c.).
EC Scott Group’s Hugh Winters and Mark Scott with Carol Russo (c.).
Stephane de la Faverie with Christophe de Villeplée of IFF.
Fragrance Resources’ Donna Harrington with Jim Krivda and Ellen Molner of Mane.
Arcade Marketing’s Laura Freedman, Larry Berman and Lori Kalender.
Slatkin & Co.’s Tom Knotek and Bath & Body Works’ Monica Rowe with Jerry Vittoria.
october 10, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Victoria’s Secret Beauty’s Mark Knitowski with Olivier Delcour. ■CW
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PITTI PRESENTS LUXURY NICHE -Continued from Page 233
Heeley’s James Heeley.
Differentes Latitudes’ Chiara Bernadin and David Frossard.
Celeste Parfums’ William and Antoinette Borsboom with their daughter, Virginia and Joe Garces of Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics.
Ludovica Villoresi and Calé’s Silvio Levi.
the Italian market has always been one dominated by smaller perfumeries, and not mega retail entities, nothing can be more at home in Florence than prestige creativity wrapped in a healthy dose of innovation. Once the realm of mostly a fringe constituency of highly creative brands, they now represent what would be considered seriously growth-oriented and increasingly mainstream. From Perricone MD in the skin care category, to Clive Christian in fragrance, the exhibitors run the gambit. Among the new and noteworthy exhibiting at this year’s show were: Heeley—Created by British perfumer and designer James Heeley, the Eaux de Parfum is made in France, and appeals to both men and women. The brand’s latest launch, the Extrait de Parfum collection, consists of three highly concentrated fragrances with top quality extracts. Lorenzo Villoresi—Since 1990, Lorenzo Villoresi has opened up an innovative path in the sector of artistic
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Keiko Mecheri of Keiko Mecheri.
Soling Company’s Anastasia Makarevich, Tata and Yuri Antipov (r.) with Joe Garces.
perfume with the creation of perfume and home collections using high quality materials such as crystal, travertine and marble. Each product is completely produced inside the Florentine company, including its latest fragrance, Iperborea. Plum—Developed in 2010, Plum is the first perfume developed by celebrity makeup artist, Mary Greenwell. The feminine fragrance includes top notes of peach, bergamot and plum, middle notes of tuberose, rose and jasmine, and bottom notes of sandalwood, patchouli and white musk. Prudence Parfumeur—Prudence eau de parfum, a concentrate of femininity, yet also sensual and discreet, is the first fragrance born of the creativity of Prudence Kilgour. Mademoiselle, on the other hand, is an eau de toilette for a younger woman, and is available in two scents: one is playful with a base of mandarin and orange flowers; the other is sweeter—scented with red flowers over a base of vanilla.
Prudence Parfumeur’s display.
Plum from the U.K.
Ut Olet Vinum, a line of fragrances linked to the world of wine.
Clive Christian.
David Frossard and Antina Ricci with Juliet Has a Gun’s Romano Ricci.
Intertrade Europe’s display of Bond No. 9’s fragrances. october 10, 2011
■CW
COSMETIC WORLD
TAYLOR SWIFT INTRODUCES WONDERSTRUCK -Continued from Page 233
Swift collaborated with perfumer Olivier Gillotin of Givaudan to create the juice—a gourmand floral inspired by her favorite memories and scents. The alluring top notes of freesia, apple blossom and raspberry melt into an authentic heart of vanilla and honeysuckle, and dry down to engaging base notes of amber, sandalwood and peach. “Taylor has so many appealing qualities that have captivated fans, making her the superstar she is today,” said Gillotin. “She had a vision for this fragrance and we could not have been more thrilled to help her make it come to life. As the fragrance is revealed note by note, each spray delivers hints of her beauty, femininity, success and independence.” Elizabeth Arden worked with SGD to create the packaging—a deep
purple bottle with an iridescent rainbow finish, never before used in the fragrance industry, to give the
bottle a magical glow. Adorning the bottle are antiqued gold charms—a Moravian star, dove and birdcage— that were-handpicked by Swift to evoke her whimsical flair. The charms also appear within the intricate detail of the embossed cap, capturing the star’s love of hidden messages. The carton is a modern day patchwork, an homage to the various fabrics Swift has collected on her travels, and the finishing touch is a gold embossed ’13,’ which fans will recognize as the singer’s lucky number. The eau de parfum is available in department and specialty stores this month, and is priced at $49.50 for 1.7 oz., and $59.50 for 3.4 oz. The collection will also include a rollerball for $18.00, a scented body lotion for $29.00, and a scented bath gel for $25.00. ■CW
AVON CONTINUES ‘GREEN’ PROJECT In early 2011, Avon launched the Avon Green Building Promise, a corporate policy that outlines the tangible metrics, goals and policies to mitigate and reduce the environmental impacts of Avon buildings worldwide. Adding to that promise, Avon has thoroughly redesigned their U.S. headquarters at 777 Third Avenue in New York City— 275,000 sq. ft. of space occupying 10 floors, or 50% of the total building.
Star appliances, lighting efficiency and public transportation. “Our LEED certification is currently pending, but we hope to be among the 10% of buildings to achieve LEED Gold in New York City,” said Louise Matthews, vice president of global real estate for Avon Products, Inc. “We are especially proud that our U.S. headquarters has been designed and built to ‘Gold’ standards during
NEWPRODUCTS OSCAR DE LA RENTA live in love
Category: Fragrance Launch: October 2011 Claims: Inspired by passion for life, this scent is a reflection of the woman who lives each day with joy, and whose life is filled with beauty and inspiration. Key Notes: Bergamot, hyacinth, orange flower, musk and sandalwood. Stats: 1.0 oz., $58.00; 1.7 oz., $78.00; 3.4 oz., $98.00
EMILIO PUCCI Miss Pucci Intense
The redesigned company store, designed by SpaceSmith interior architects.
A new kitchen and recycling station in the back of the reception area.
“Our corporate responsibility mission is to be an agent of positive change worldwide through three strategic pillars—economic empowerment, philanthropy and sustainability,” said Tod Arbogast, vice president of corporate responsibility and sustainability for Avon Products, Inc. “These pillars are the basis of why we exist.”
Avon’s 125th anniversary year, right here in the city in which we were founded, and we hope this will serve as an inspiration to other companies in New York City and around the globe.” Partnering with NEW, Nontraditional Employment for Women, Avon set a new record for New York City, achieving 17% participation of
Avon’s U.K. headquarters in Northampton, England.
Renovated work stations with external views to maximize access to light.
In an effort to reduce their carbon footprint, Avon has been making “green” changes to several of their key manufacturing, distributing and R&D facilities across the globe using the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) rating system. Known for certifying the greenest performing buildings in the world, LEED bases their scores on levels of water efficiency, recycled content, Energy
women in the trades during the construction project. “We decided to be proactive and go beyond the LEED standards with the cutting edge pieces and 100% Green Power that was purchased for the space,” said Doug West of HOK Architects. “Our commitment to reuse is evident in the recycled content we chose for the ceilings, glass office fronts and carpet tile. We
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Category: Fragrance Launch: October 2011 Claims: This new sensual amber floral is a more sophisticated and elegant version of the original Miss Pucci, and highlights the strength of the notes. Key Notes: Magnolia, jasmine sambac, patchouli and vanilla. Stats: 1.0 oz., $60.00; 1.7 oz., $82.00; 3.4 oz., $98.00 also created low work stations to permit natural light, and give external views to 95.8% of seated spaces. It is important for employees to have a connection with the outdoors.” In addition, Avon installed high efficiency faucets and toilets throughout each floor (35% more efficient than baseline), as well as LED lighting, and enhanced the indoor air quality using mold-tough sheetrock and low-VOC paints and sealants. “It is crucial for us to be internally authentic,” said Arbogast. “We are the largest social network for women in the world, reaching over 300 million women, and we hope to continue spreading the message about our ongoing commitment to sustainability.” ■CW october 10, 2011
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BULLETIN AJC HONORS AGON -Continued from Page 233
(AJC) International Human Relations Award at an event in New York City on October 3.
and why I’m excited to be able to share my line today with artists everywhere through Bobbi Brown Pro.” Fo r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n , v i s i t bobbibrowncosmetics.com/pro.
PACO RABANNE STRIKES GOLD ICMAD YOUNG DESIGNERS -Continued from Page 233
A crowd surrounding the Paco Rabanne fragrance truck outside of Macy’s Herald Square.
and Sephora stores with a ‘Gold Rush’ in New York City. With a branded motorcade in tow, a gold armored truck with Paco Rabanne advertisements parked in front of select stores to provide ‘retailtainment’ to crowds of passersby. A special appearance was made by “Lady Million” and “One Million Man,” who walked a red carpet with gold suitcases full of gifted fragrance samples for excited consumers.
BOBBI BROWN ‘PRO’GRAM -Continued from Page 233
a members-only program that entitles artists to special benefits including significant product discounts and access to tips and techniques from Bobbi herself. This new paid-for membership program is open to professional makeup artists with the first two years of enrollment at no cost. Benefits of becoming a Bobbi Brown Pro member include a 40% discount on all products, convenient 24/7 online shopping, and a guaranteed two-year membership. “When I first started out as a freelance makeup artist, one of my biggest challenges was finding the right makeup, and I had to mix and blend everything to create makeup colors that looked natural on the skin.” said Bobbi Brown, founder of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. “That’s why I created Bobbi Brown Cosmetics—
october 10, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
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the 12th annual ICMAD Young Designers Competition at a gala dinner on September 21 in New York City. The ICMAD Young Designers Competition showcases the talents of students studying package design, and this year’s three wining designers showed exemplary creativity and knowledge of cosmetic packaging needs. Cheuk Lau of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, won first place for “Zero Post Shave Soother;” Chad Lowe, of the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, received second place for “Little Monsters Children’s Face Wash;” and Irina Shvarts, also of the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, placed third for “Lume.”
PERFUMANIA SALES UP FOR SEPTEMBER
Perfumania reported total net sales of $22.7 million for the five week fiscal month of September 2011, an increase of 7.5% over September 2 0 1 0 . C o m p a ra b l e s t o r e s a l e s increased by 11.3%.
L’ORÉAL USA PARTNERS WITH FABOVERFIFTY.COM
L’Oréal USA is partnering with FabOverFifty.com, a destination site where women ages 50 and over share their style and experiences, to address the beauty needs of the baby boomer generation. “We are very excited about this partnership with FabOverFifty.com,” said Jorge Cosano, director of corporate strategic marketing for L’Oréal USA. “L’Oréal believes in beauty at every age; FabOverFifty.com is a great platform for many of our brands to connect with this influential generation of women in the digital era.”
FRAGRANCE RESOURCES’ NEW APPOINTMENTS
Fra g ra n c e R e s o u rc e s r e c e n t l y announced four new appointments to their North America Fragrance Division. Jane Konnyu Ruger, formerly of Fi r m e n i ch , wa s n a m e d s e n i o r perfumer, and Brian Sardo, also formerly of Firmenich, was appointed fragrance evaluator. Licette Lover, previously at HSN, has joined the company as marketing director, and Danna Harrington, recently of Givaudan, was named senior evaluator. ■CW
HOLIDAY
NEWPRODUCTS STILA Dream in Full Color Palette
Category: Makeup Launch: October 2011 Claims: With 29 eyeshadow shades, seven cheek colors and a Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner in Stingray, this limited-edition palette makes creating endless color combinations a reality. Stats: $39.00
TARTE lip service LipSurgence collection Category: Makeup Launch: October 2011 Claims: This limitededition collection includes five glamorous shades made to smoothly glide on lips and deliver a surge of moisture on a cellular level for a naturally plumped-up appearance. Key Ingredients: Vitamins C and E, peppermint oil and jojoba seed oil. Stats: $29.00
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Open House For Fall 2012 Admissions Master’s Degree Program: Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management
A Think Tank of Innovative Leadership FIT’s Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing and Management graduate degree is designed to provide advanced managerial and marketing education for outstanding emerging executives in the beauty industry. The only curriculum of its kind in the United States, the program is a Think Tank of Innovative Leadership for the beauty industry.
Come and hear from our Alumni! Thursday, December 1, 2011, 6:00 - 7:30 PM FIT Board of Trustees Room, C Building, 9th Foor 7th Avenue at 27th Street, New York