Cosmetic World december 5, 2011
BULLETIN
ARMANI CELEBRATES 10 YEARS OF BEAUTY
More Magazine’s Genevieve Monsma and Giorgio Armani’s Tim Quinn with Karyn Benvenuto of Saks.
To c e l e b ra t e a d e c a d e o f success, the Giorgio Armani Beauty team gathered with guests at the Saks Fifth Avenue -Continued on Page 283
KATY PERRY DEBUTS SECOND FRAGRANCE
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The Fragrance Foundation hosted an expert panel including Terry Darland, president of Parfums Christian Dior, North America; Linda Levy, vice president of marketing for cosmetics and fragrances at Macy’s; Theo Spilka, vice president of new business development and licensing worldwide for Firmenich; and Ron Rolleston, executive vice president of creative and business development for Elizabeth Arden, to discuss the impact of celebrities and celebrity fragrances on the industry. Keynote speaker Karen Grant, vice president of beauty and senior global
CEW SHARES INSIGHTS OF L’ORÉAL LEADERS
Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) welcomed Silvia Galfo, vice president of marketing for Lancôme makeup and fragrances in the U.S., and Nathalie Kristo, senior vice president of L’Oréal Paris, to their Women in Beauty Series -Continued on Page 282 event in New York City on November OMNICOM ACQUIRES 30 to share their insider strategies MMC behind the powerhouse beauty brands Marina Maher Communications they represent. (MMC) has become part of Omnicom Group, a global holding company that offers services in over 30 marketing disciplines. -Continued on Page 283
FF COLLABORATES WITH OSMOZ.COM
-Continued on Page 283
CEW’s Jill Scalamandre and Carlotta Jacobson (r.) with Nathalie Kristo and Silvia Galfo of L’Oréal USA.
ALDO, a leading shoes and accessories brand, recently launched its first
grown to become a global beauty expert and key decision maker throughout the many processes of shaping a brand’s identity.
Each of these leaders, both of multiALDO LAUNCHES billion dollar global industries, has FRAGRANCE COLLECTION
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Vol. XLVII / No. 21
FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION PUTS SPOTLIGHT ON CELEBRITY
Award-winning popstar Katy Perry has added a new scent to her fragrance portfolio, Meow! by Katy Perry, which is a companion
The Fragrance Foundation and osMoz.com have announced an online partnership to expand global consumer reach to the
®
-Continued on Page 281
Elizabeth Arden’s Ron Rolleston, Macy’s Linda Levy, Christian Dior’s Terry Darland and NPD Group’s Karen Grant with Theo Spilka of Firmenich.
industry analyst for The NPD Group, kicked off the evening with a presentation -Continued on Page 278
RIHANNA GETS SASSY WITH ‘REBELLE’ Award-winning recording artist Rihanna is set to launch her second fragrance, Rebelle, in Macy’s this month, with additional stores rolling out in February and international distribution shortly thereafter. Following the success o f t h e s t a r ’s f i r s t fragrance, Reb’l Fleur, Rihanna asked her fans in an online video whether they considered themselves to be more of a rebel or a fleur. An overwhelming majority chose the rebellious side, leading to the creation and naming of the new scent, Rebelle. “My new fragrance is about taking control, but still being a lady,” said Rihanna. “There’s a feminine, romantic element to the fragrance, but there’s also a defiant quality in it. I love its duality.” -Continued on Page 280
Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION PUTS SPOTLIGHT ON CELEBRITY -Continued from Page 277
The Fragrance Foundation’s Rochelle Bloom with Peter Acerra and Shéhérazade Chamlou of SGD.
Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca and Larry Berman (2nd r.) with Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro and Lauren Bitet of Givaudan.
of facts and figures about the sales volume for celebrity fragrances in both mass and prestige markets over the last decade. “There has been an increase in dollars for prestige celebrity fragrance sales due to the turnaround we’ve seen from the success of Justin Bieber and Taylor Swift,” said Grant. “Although the celebrity fragrance category has contributed $1.3 billion to the industry since 2002, which is a very compelling sales volume, brands need to continue looking for new ways to leverage the category in order to find the winning formula.” Darland spoke about the growth of Dior J’adore since award-winning actress Charlize Theron became the face of the brand in 2005, and said the brand probably wouldn’t be as successful without her. To add a retail perspective, Levy noted that the most important thing for Macy’s is that they really know who their customer is.
Givaudan’s Rose Eckert and Kate Greene (r.) with Rochelle Bloom and Coty Beauty’s Marsha Brooks.
“It is also important to bring in brands that appeal to different audiences, and be able to reach them in different ways,” said Levy. “There is a lot more marketing that can be done.” Spilka commented on the process of the selection of celebrities to work with, and the contract negotiations. “It is a nurturing process and an educational phase to cultivate the relationship and negotiate terms,” said Spilka. “We choose a celebrity that we can have an ongoing relationship with—it’s not just, ‘let’s go after who’s number one today.’” Rolleston added his insight on the selection process, from a marketing point of view. “As marketers we try to understand people’s fan bases and their audiences through qualitative and quantitative research,” said Rolleston. “Taylor Swift is the voice of her generation and has an extremely high level of fan loyalty. It makes sense that her fans would want to wear her fragrance.”
Lord & Taylor’s Marti Moore and Barbara Zinn Moore.
COSMETIC WORLD John G. Ledes publisher & editor ext. 241 jledes@beautyfashion.com
George Ledes president & ceo ext. 242 gledes@cosmeticworld.com
Debra Davis advertising director ext. 245 ddavis@cosmeticworld.com
Jennifer Drucker Eric Michelson art director photographer ext. 252 jdrucker@cosmeticworld.com
Brittany Burhop executive editor ext. 236 bburhop@cosmeticworld.com
Debbie Ward managing editor ext. 241 dward@cosmeticworld.com
For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com 278
Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline and Rick Brown of Macy’s.
O, The Oprah Magazine’s Patricia Foster and Jill Seelig with Lisa Hawkins of Dior Beauty (c.). ■CW
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december 5, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Celebrate Elegance with the Jewel of Fracas de Robert Piguet
F r a c a s P a r f u m ( 6 0 ML) and, the ultimate luxury, Fracas Parfum (1L) are both limited editions made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS.
Discover the true essence of fine fragrance with the Robert Piguet collection.
EXCLUSIVELY AT HARRODS, PERFUMERY, GROUND FLOOR
RIHANNA GETS SASSY WITH ‘REBELLE’ -Continued from Page 277
The juice, a lush gourmand chypre created by Givaudan perfumers Caroline Sabas and Marypierre Julien, aims to capture Rihanna’s essence by taking the darkest notes of the original fragrance and developing an entirely new scent around them. Playful top notes of plum, strawberry and ginger are complimented by a heart of vanilla orchid, heliotrope and cacao absolute to create an exotic allure. Musk, coffee, patchouli and amber merge to form a rich and mysterious base built on direct sensuality.
Keeping with the stiletto-inspired flacon of the original, created by SGD Group, the bottle layers a twisted, matte “ribbon” over precious metal, but in a new lipstick red instead of black. “Rihanna’s remarkable talent and bold personal style have made her an icon, yet it is the way she balances strength and femininity that keeps her audience so intrigued,” said Fred Purches, chairman and CEO of Parlux Fragrances, the star’s licensee. “This fragrance, like Rihanna’s music, expresses a fresh, modern sensuality. Stores are clamoring to get this, and we expect it to do a tremendous amount of volume—at least 70% of the original.” The Rebelle fragrance collection includes a 3.4 oz. eau de parfum priced at $59.00, a 1.7 oz. priced at $49.00 and a 6.7 oz. body lotion priced at $30.00. ■CW 280
ALDO LAUNCHES FRAGRANCE COLLECTION -Continued from Page 277
fragrance collection—A is for ALDO, which includes three women’s scents and two men’s. To demystify the mystical nature of fragrance, ALDO has developed five entirely unique scents that link color to personality. “A is for ALDO takes the discovery of which fragrance is made to be ours and turns it into play, similar to that of its packaging and name inspiration of the almost universal memory of linking letters to works and words to images,” said Douglas Bensadoun, creative director for ALDO. “Scents can be complex, but everyone knows their favorite color.” To capture the diversity of the brand, ALDO worked with two fragrance houses, Givaudan and Robertet, in hopes of providing more than one olfactory perspective. “Since the concept behind A is for ALDO is about finding your individual scent, we felt that it was very important for our fragrances to also originate from different individuals,” said Bensadoun. “It made sense for
Blue for her, developed by Givaudan perfumer Adriana Medina, is for the most popular girl on campus—a sexy, glamorous and seductive woman. Red for her was created by Robertet perfumer Olivia Jan, who was inspired by the powerful vibration of the color red, and the sensual, passionate woman who loves to make a statement. Yellow for him, developed by Givaudan perfumer Olivier Gillotin, was inspired by freshness, energy and adrenaline, and is for the casually sporty man. And lastly, Red for him, also crafted by Claude Dir, was inspired by the South of France and created for the man with classic taste and modern sensibilities. Each block-shaped bottle, designed by Maesa Group, is a first-of-its-kind and focuses on the details—Zamak metal gives the bottle a luxurious weight and a matte finish enhances the color typography, allowing it to pop in-store.
A rendering of the women’s fragrance in-store display.
A rendering of the fragrance display at the cashier in-store.
us to work with different noses and utilize their distinct visions. Depending on their background, their experience, their sensibility and personality, each perfumer created a very special and unique fragrance.” Yellow for her , created by Givaudan perfumer Claude Dir, was inspired by lush summertime flowers in the Italian Riviera, and is for the girl who is chic, playful and alluring.
“ALDO projects close to $5 million in first-year sales, and sees enormous growth potential for the category,” said Bensadoun. The new collection is available in all corporate markets, U.S., Canada, U.K. and Ireland in 682 stores, and at aldoshoes.com. It is priced at $15.00 for a 0.34 oz. rollerball, $25.00 for 1.0 oz. and $45.00 for 2.5 oz. ■CW
december 5, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
CEW SHARES INSIGHTS OF L’ORÉAL LEADERS -Continued from Page 281
L’Oréal USA’s Carol Hamilton and Frederic Rozé with Barbara Zinn Moore of Lord & Taylor.
L’Oréal’s Thomas Reedman and David Suffit with Cos Policastro of Givaudan.
“We have seen very strong growth across all categories in the prestige market,” said Galfo. “Newness and strong positioning are what have kept people coming into stores, especially major launches like Hypnôse Mascara and Trésor Midnight Rose, which target a new, younger consumer.” Although they represent different markets, Galfo in prestige and Kristo in mass, each woman understands the evolution of the consumer due to the explosion of the digital realm. “We are dealing with a much more sophisticated consumer who likes to be involved with campaigns on Facebook and read ratings and reviews before making a decision to purchase,” said Kristo. “This really changes the way we market, and we need to focus on delivering the right message, at the right place, at the right time. Although not everything is measurable, we learn something
L’Oréal Paris’ Erica Bowen, Karen Fondu and Lisa Capparelli.
from everything that we do in the digital space.” Galfo added that the digital realm also creates a different level of communication in the marketplace. “Things need to be simple, immediate and fast to maintain the attention of the consumer,” said Galfo. “We also have to be willing to share things about the brand that maybe we wouldn’t have shared before.” While Galfo and Kristo know the importance of a strong strategic vision on the global front, they also know it comes with challenges, such as developing cross-cultural formulas and maintaining a universal brand identity. “Although our products may look different around the world, our tagline, ‘Because we’re worth it,’ resonates the same everywhere,” said Kristo. “We need to continue celebrating the global heritage of the brand, while keeping it very close to American women’s hearts.”
Arcade Marketing’s Taylor Ryan, Marine Ravera Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ Jerome Roux with Yara Univision’s Julie Pinkwater with Jeannine and Diane Crecca. Karmiloff and Frederic Pignault of Givaudan. Shao Collins and Dorene Bair of Meredith 360.
Lancôme’s Genevieve Santos and Andrew Armstrong.
december 5, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
Self’s Ellen Cummings, Laura McEwen and Anita Maiella.
Script to Screen’s Tony Kerry and Ken Kerry with Laura Geller of Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity (c.). ■CW
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KATY PERRY -Continued from Page 277
piece to the her first fragrance, Purr, which debuted a year ago. In partnership with Gigantic Parfums, Perry created ‘Meow!’ while on her world-tour promoting her platinum-selling second record, Teenage Dream. The fruity floral eau de parfum, developed with Givaudan, was created to be a wearable interpretation of the fun, sensual spirit of the tour, and pairs honeysuckle and pear with a backdrop of creamy vanilla, musk, and amber to embody Perry’s energy. “Meow! is my second baby in the fragrance world,” said Perry. “I can’t wait for people to be able to experience my intriguing, amusing, candy-land like fantasy whenever they spritz it! We have a lot of fun on tour so there’s a lot of fun infused in this bottle! Meow! It’s simply the cat’s meow!” Meow! is available at Nordstrom stores nationwide and Nordstrom.com, and is priced at $65.00 for 3.4 oz. and $45.00 for 1.7 oz. “After achieving global success with ‘Purr by Katy Perry,’ the brand continues to positively gain presence in the marketplace,” said Isaac Lekach, CEO of Gigantic Parfums. “We see great potential with her brand and wanted to deliver a unique sister fragrance, Meow! to support and expound on that excitement.” ■CW
Retail Sales: november 2011 vs 2010 Select Specialty Stores (in $ millions) November 2011 Limited Brands $872.6 Nordstrom $910.0 Saks Inc. $277.1 Perfumania $16.9
% Change (2.3%) 11.6% 8.7% 1.9%
Same-Store Sales % 7.0% 5.6% 9.3% 5.1%
% Change (4.9%) 2.0% 5.3%
Same-Store Sales % (4.9%) 3.0% 4.8%
% Change (4.5%) (3.3%) 4.0%
Same-Store Sales % (6.2%) (2.0%) 4.0%
% Change 11.0% 3.0%
Same-Store Sales % 9.0% 1.8%
% Change 1.4%
Same-Store Sales % 1.9%
General Department Stores Bon-Ton Dillard’s Macy’s
November 2011 $303.6 $479.2 $2,465.0
Popular Department Stores November 2011 Kohl’s $1,930.0 JC Penney $1,270.0 TJX Companies $2,040.0
Mass Retailers Costco Target
November 2011 $7,510.0 $6,191.0
Chain Drug Store Retailers Rite Aid
November 2011 $2,404.0
P&G LAUNCHES STYLEUNITED P&G Beauty & Grooming has launched StyleUnited, a new beauty and fashion website that provides personalized, head-to-toe style content for an exclusive consumer experience. In partnership with ShopStyle, StyleUnited will provide users with access to top industry experts, best-in-class product and style recommendations, live consultations and a personalized diagnostic tool, Style 360, to help tailor content based on specific needs. “P&G Beauty & Grooming fosters 282
relationships with many leading influencers and visionaries in beauty and fashion communities and is
thrilled to give women unprecedented access to their head-to-toe beauty
and fashion needs at one single destination,” said Charlie Chappell, associate marketing director at P&G. “StyleUnited takes the trusted outlets and experts that women turn to online every day and brings them together under one website for a comprehensive beauty and fashion resource.” Under the direction of editor in chief Margit Detweiler, StyleUnited will feature hundreds of articles, slideshows, blog posts and howto videos from P&G and industry experts, including influential stylists, ■CW bloggers and online editors. december 5, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
BULLETIN ARMANI CELEBRATES 10 YEARS
FF and OSMOZ.COM
flagship store in New York City, where the brand first launched its beauty collection 10 years ago. Also attending the fête was More Magazine, who has been partners with Giorgio Armani for several years with the goal of helping women to reinvent themselves. In addition to joining the champagne toast, consumers were invited to stop by the beauty counter for complimentary makeovers and to meet with Tim Quinn, celebrity face designer and national director of creative artistry for Giorgio Armani Beauty, and Genevieve Monsma, beauty director at More Magazine. “Saks has been so supportive of the brand, and has been the outlet for the bulk of our distribution,” said Quinn. “When Giorgio Armani Beauty started, we didn’t even have lip gloss, and now we’ve become a fully encompassed beauty line. Our makeup artists really know how to give the customer the full luxury Armani experience.” With a $95.00 purchase, consumers received a gift bag filled with beauty samples, the latest issue of More Magazine, and a copy of the magazine’s first-ever book, 287 Secrets of Reinventing Your Life: Big and Small Ways to Embrace New Possibilities.
fascinating world of scent. The Fragrance Foundation’s website, www.fragrance.org, and osMoz.com will link to each other to provide worldwide fragrance fans and consumers with the ability to find information from highly-respected, expert resources. “The goal of the Foundation and the goal of osMoz are the same: to raise consumer awareness of all the great pleasures and relevance of wearing fragrance,” said Mary Ellen Lapsansky, vice president of The Fragrance Foundation. “We are thrilled to partner with osMoz—they deliver fragrance content in such a dynamic, fun way using all the tech tools available today without ever losing sight of the inherent mystery, romance and art form that is fragrance.”
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OMNICOM ACQUIRES MMC -Continued from Page 277
“We are delighted that we are now able to provide our clients with global reach in public relations and can service their needs in over 100 countries,” said Maher. “Through Omnicom, we will have seamless access to 360-degree marketing expertise, with increased resources to drive brand growth. While our access to new services has expanded, what our clients, staff and friends value most about MMC will remain the same: our people, our innovative work and exceptional level of client service. That’s baked into our DNA— it always has been and will continue to be part of MMC’s core values.” december 5, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD
-Continued from Page 277
NPD INVESTS IN SEGMENTA
The NPD Group, which offers the only retail-point-of-sale tracking service for the beauty industry in the U.S., has made an investment in Segmenta—a market research firm that tracks the prestige beauty industry in Mexico, Argentina, Brazil, Columbia, Chile, Peru, Venezuela, and Uruguay. Segmenta currently provides retail tracking, including data from over 900 stores across eight countries, and the company has over 90 clients in the region. As part of the agreement, Mark Turim, president and general manager of NPD in Latin America, has joined Segmenta’s board of directors. “NPD has put expansion of our beauty services on the fast track,” said Turim. “Our investment in Segmenta gives us a foothold in one of the world’s fastest growing markets for the industry, Latin America. Their strong leadership, proven success market, and ambitious plans to roll out new services make Segmenta an ideal partner for NPD as we look to continue delivering more global information to our clients.” ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS PHILOSOPHY
the microdelivery triple-acid brightening peel Category: Skin care Launch: December 2011 Claims: These pre-saturated chemical peel pads contain a breakthrough tripleacid formula to help reclaim the glory of youthful-looking skin by dissolving dull skin, brightening discoloration, improving clarity and buffering the appearance of fine lines. Key Ingredients: Mandelic, phytic and azelaic acids. Stats: $68.00
VICTORIA’S SECRET Heavenly Shine Category: Fragrance Launch: December 2011 Claims: This limitededition fruity floral eau de parfum is for the woman who wants to step into the spotlight and shine like a star. Key Notes: Water lily, nectarine and vanilla. Stats: $55.00
LUSH Ro’s Argan Body Conditioner Category: Body care Launch: November 2011 Claims: This beautiful, rose jam-scented body conditioner is full of the most emollient, moisturizing ingredients possible to feed and nourish the skin. Key Ingredients: Cypress oil, capuacu butter, Brazil nut oil, argan oil, almond oil and shea butter. Stats: $29.95 283
cosmeticworldcalendar Subject: (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro
(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)
DECember
Admission detail: (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available
Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show
DECEMBER 9
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty of Giving Luncheon Waldorf-Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
DECEMBER 14
CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com
january JANUARY 31
Fragrance Foundation Hot Off the Press Annual Business Review NYC 8:00 AM Breakfast (S) (TA) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
february FEBRUARY 8
Cosmetic Executive Women Young Executive Committee’s Cocktails & Connections: Speed Networking FIT • NYC 6:30 PM (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
FEBRUARY 9
James E. Marshall OCD Foundation Beyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Maesa Group’s Jill Belasco, Kaplow’s Liz Kaplow, and Scent Marketing Institute’s Caroline Pieper-Vogt Union League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (608) 845-3664
FEBRUARY 16
Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum with Ulta’s Chuck Ruben Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
march
MARCH 7
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Product Demonstration Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (IO) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
FEBRUARY 20 - 23
Beauty & Wellness Exchange Montage • Laguna Beach CA (T) (203) 202-2576 www.ExchangeEvents.com/Beauty
FEBRUARY 22 - 24
Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting Ritz-Carlton • Naples FL (M) (202) 331-1770 www.personalcarecouncil.org
FEBRUARY 25 - 26
The Makeup Show California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) (212) 242-1213 www.themakeupshow.com
MARCH 9 - 12
Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com
MARCH 13
March of Dimes Beauty Ball Honoring HSN’s Mindy Grossman and Fairchild’s Gina Sanders Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 353-1143 jcarlo@marchofdimes.com
MARCH 9 - 11
Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com
APRIL
APRIL 3 - 4
ICMAD Technical/Regulatory Forum Balboa Bay Club • Newport Beach CA (M) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org
Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center • Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com
APRIL 26
ICMAD FDA Cosmetic Regulations Workshop NYC 9:00 AM (TA) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org
For more events check out cosmeticworldcalendar.com 284
december 5, 2011
COSMETIC WORLD