First Chair Spring 2012

spring 2012

A Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

.com

First Skills

Essential Extensions

Build your clientele and earn more money by learning extensions

TransitionS

A Day in the Life. . . . . .of a successful new stylist

FIRSTCHAIR.COM A MODERN SALON PUBLICATION

Empire FC_Cover_2012.indd 1

From Classroom To Clinic To Salon

Em p Gi ire ve St Ba ud ck en ! ts

Design, color, esthetics, business

3/2/2012 10:32:47 AM

OUR HAIR ALWAYS SPEAKS FOR ITSELF but we thought you might want to hear from your fellow stylists

Stylists share their experiences on The Loft Salon Studio: The high standards and the length of the

educational programs really help to set me up for success.

Katie Vitale Grither: The education class I took with Great Lengths

5 years ago was such a huge mass of extension information.

My instructors were wonderful, hands-on, and so unbelievably knowledgeable about this product and the products that try to compete. I have been to many educational classes for all things hair related in my 12 years of being a licensed stylist and I can KRQHVWO\ VD\ 121( KDV EHHQ PRUH LQIRUPDWLYH QRU EHQHÀ FLDO DV Great Lengths cry;) It’s truly magic!

Got 2 get great lengths Hair w/ Hair Connections: Their education is bar none the best!

Sherri Kuniski: , KDYH EHHQ FHUWLÀ HG LQ *UHDW /HQJWKV IRU VHYHUDO \HDUV the education and technical support is above and beyond any other company I have experienced in my 20 years in the beauty industry. I have been fortunate enough to have built the bulk of my business doing Great Lengths extensions. Thank you Great Lengths team I couldn’t do it without you.

Turn a few pages to see our 2012 Certification Training Schedule www.facebook.com/GreatLengthsUSA (800) 999-0809 Š 2012 Eva GaborŽ International, Ltd.

Y A D L A N O I T NA 1 1 0 2 Y T U A E B OF carise to the oc ts and staff en ts ud ofi st pr n, of ai nce ag entire day re donates an ! ce en ol vi sion as Empi estic against dom a single to the fight was raised in 0 00 0, $4 ly ar Beauty. ne , of ar y ye Da is al Th annual Nation ’s re ates pi st Em 23 g day durin ograms in c violence pr ecial sp is th on Anti-domesti e funds raised th d Hair an om fr ol t ho fi will bene pire Beauty Sc Em l al to b ! ne day. Great jo a job well do students on Design School

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A young customer gets a manicure while contributing to Empire’s National Day of Beauty.

Empire Beauty School in West Palm Beach, Florida was thrilled to take part in their first ever National Day of Beauty.

Students at Empire Beauty School’s Wyoming Valley campus celebrate National Day of Beauty.

special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu e-1

Students at Empire’s Morrow campus did such an outstanding job of promoting their fundraising effort, other businesses wanted to get involved!

Maria Ellis, who works at a nearby home improvement store, knitted 40 hand-made scarves to donate to Haven House, Morrow’s adopted shelter, after speaking to one of the students. Truly impressive!

Empire students in Arlington Heights, IL get ready to take clients during National Day of Beauty.

More than 900 Empire student s and staff pu Gives Back t-s rchased Empir hirts to raise e money for the adopted shelt ers.

e-2 special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu

EMPIRE HONORED FOR EXCELLENCE IN EDUCATION! Classroom in Empire Beauty School’s Springfield, PA campus.

E

mpire Education Group has been honored once again by Modern Salon Media with its Excellence in Education Awards!

Empire’s Masters of Beauty Skills Certification Program has taken top prize once again in the category of Advanced Education/Alumni Programs.

Masters of Beauty was chosen as the overall honoree in this category in 2010 and again in 2011 for its hands-on, non-product specific classes, led by industry great Nick Arrojo and his team of master stylists.

Empire Education Group was also named an honoree in the category of Technology for its use of smart board technology, its exclusive CLiC Learning System, and top of the line tool kits.

Empire Beauty School ‘s Manhattan campus in the heart of New York City was honored in the category of School Culture. This category honors schools which excel at giving their students a great overall experience complete with opportunities to network in the professional industry.

Arrojo Certification Program featuring Nick Empire’s Masters of Beauty Skills ced Education.

Advan for r winne tion Educa in is 2-time Excellence special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu e-3

U.S. CONGRESS NW PHOENIX C MAN VISITS AMPUS U .S. Congressman Ben Quayle, representing the 3rd District of Arizona, recently toured Empire Beauty School in NW Phoenix.

Quayle, son of former Vice President Dan Quayle, spent his time at Empire Beauty School visiting the student salon, several classrooms, and getting a firsthand look at the cutting edge technology Empire offers its students.

Also during his visit, Quayle led a round table discussion with a panel of recent NW Phoenix graduates. The Congressman asked the graduates questions about their education and how it prepared them for the workplace.

Quayle ended his visit with a short message to the entire student body!

Quayle talks with current NW students about the importance of education and access to student loans.

U.S. Congressman Ben Quayle poses for a picture with recent NW Phoenix graduates.

e-4 special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu

Great Lengths 2012 3-Day Certification Training Schedule

Mar. 11, 12 & 13 Los Angeles Mar. 25, 26 & 27 Miami Apr. 15, 16 & 17 Las Vegas & Atlanta Apr. 29, 30 & May 1 Chicago May 6, 7 & 8 New York May 20, 21 & 22 Dallas June 10, 11 & 12 Los Angeles June 24, 25 & 26 Miami

www.facebook.com/GreatLengthsUSA (800) 999-0809 © 2012 Eva Gabor® International, Ltd.

Follow 6 recent beauty school graduates as they travel state to state, salon to salon, event to event learning from stylists, sharing their passion and spreading their love for our industry.

2012

Matrix LLC, New York, NY 10017. All rights reserved. Printed in USA. 12/11 LG26757

Get a daily dose of Spread The Love and WIN weekly prizes!

Scan here or go to MyMatrixFamily.com/Love and comment on any of the videos or blogs for a chance to win.

spring 2012

.com

A Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career

spring 2012

Departments A Starter’s Guide to

NOTE .............................................................. 8

a Beautiful Career

.com

FIR FIRST GLANCE ...................................... 10 Stu Student-submitted work; Spread the Love; tips from the top; how beauty changes tip lives; liv and more.

FFIRST VIEW ....................................... 20 FFollow the career paths of educators Kris Kri Sorbie and Anthony Cole. See their

FIRST SKILLS

time time-lines to learn how they made it big, and ho how you can, too!

page

34 page

24

FIRST SKILLS Master the skills you y need to build your own clientele.

Visit firstchair.com for more articles on these topics.

Design Men’s gro grooming; award-worthy hair; 24 • disinfection reminders; remin thinning hair survey results.

28 • Color Bieber effect; color Q&A; zonal color; and more.

32 • Esthetics Spring nail trends; tarnished nail manicure;

page

49

Essential Extens e ion io s Build

your clientele and earn more mone y by learning extensions

A Day in the Life. . .

. . .of a successful new stylist

TransitionS From Cla page

10

healthy skin; and more.

34 • Services The long and short of extension education.

36 • Business Getting booked solid; take your career to the next level.

First S lls Ski lls

ssroom To Clinic To Salon

Design, color, esthetics, business

Student Submis ssi sion ons s Your work on our pages

FIRSTCHAIR.COM A MODERN SALON

contents Features

Ecuador FIRST PASSPORT ........................................................... 38 Different cultures define (and teach!) beauty in many ways..

The cosmetology school experience in Ecuador.

SIGNATURE STYLE ........................................................... 56 A message from industry icon Beth Minardi.

4 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Transitions 42 From classroom, to clinic, to salon

Moving from mannequin heads to talking heads is a world of difference. Here’s how to make the transition a smooth one.

49

A Day in the Life of a Successful New Stylist How three stylists successfully made the clinic-to-salon transition in three years or less.

Read how Kelsey, Casey and Taylor make the most out of their careers.

PUBLICATION

A Starter’s Guide to a Beautiful Career areer

.com

EDITORIAL

Alison Shipley Editor ashipley@vancepublishing.com 847-415-8084

Lauren Salapatek Associate Editor lsalapatek@vancepublishing.com m 847-415-8012

Contributing Writer Victoria Wurdinger ngeer

MANAGEMENT Steve Reiss Vice President/Group Publisher sreiss@vancepublishing.com 847-634-4354

Michele Musgrove Associate Publisher & Editorial Director or mmusgrove@vancepublishing.com 847-634-7890

Deborah Ogilvie Executive Managing Editor dogilvie@vancepublishing.com 847-634-4359

ADVERTISING West Region

Gregg McConnell gmcconnell@vancepublishing.com 805-498-3475

PRODUCTION

Midwest Region

Director of Production Thomas M. Fogarty

Katharine Cook kcook@vancepublishing.com 847-634-7869

Senior Production Manager Jenny Barnette Digital Ad Processor Jeff Hofbauer@vancepublishing.com

East Region

Angela Reich areich@vancepublishing.com 203-775-5182 Administrative Assistant

Sherry DelVecchio sdelvecchio@vancepublishing.com sdel 623-536-6630

Are you a beauty and wellness educator who would do anything for your students? Or do you know an educator like this?

If so, the AACS/CEA Educator of the Year Selection Committee wants to hear from you! The Nicholas F. Cimaglia Educator of the Year Award is given annually to one educator who exhibits the most significant contribution toward upgrading professional standards of educational excellence, particularly within the area of student involvement, during the past year. It is co-sponsored by the Cosmetology Educators of America and Milady. To be considered for the award, nominations must be received no later than April 15, 2012. More information and the application can be found at tinyurl.com/6s8z6dj.

CUSTOM PUBLISHING C Director Custom Publishing Sales Dire Gregg McConnell gmcconnel@vancepublishing.com gmc

CIRCULATION Director of Audience Development Dire Donna Hansen dh dhansen@vancepublishing.com 847-634-7891

SSubscription Services 800-808-2623

PRODUCTION P RO QUESTIONS? Call Jenny Barnette 847-415-8005 jbarnette@vancepublishing.com jba Chairman of the Board William C. Vance President Peggy Walker

FirstChai hairr is pub publish lished ed tthree hree tim times a year by Vance Publishing Corp., Cor 400 Knightsbridge Pkwy., Lincolnshire, IL Modern Salon’s FirstChair published 60069 (847) 634-2600. Modern Salon’s FirstChair accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organization making the statement or claim. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. First Chair is registered in the United States Patent and Trademark Office. Copyright 2012

6 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

editor’s note

Learn to Grow h, spring! The season of transition, anticipation. Plant, nurture, bloom, grow—this is the energy we bring to this Spring issue of First Chair. We focus on the transition from student to professional, and the growth cycle you experience throughout your cosmetology program and your career.

Remember your first day? You probably put together your caddy of supplies, organized your cutting combs, found a spot to fit your diffuser and sectioning clips.

Then, almost overnight, you go from sitting in a chair in the classroom to standing behind a chair in the clinic. Then, the “really big change” begins: your first client, your first retail recommendations, your first set of foils on a real person, not a mannequin.

Time passes, and it’s on to phase two. You’re walking with confidence to greet your guest, prescribing products with ease, no longer flinching when you see your mannequin head in your car trunk. You realize you’ve even retained clients! Still, there’s more change ahead.

Before you know it, you’re passing your State Boards, walking across a stage to accept your diploma, and entering the job market. You’ve finished another phase. But you’re back to “beginning” again, too. Like seasons in nature, learning in beauty never stops. To be successful, you must keep evolving. Even after you’ve earned your license, continuing education is a must.

It’s okay to be nervous about what comes next. That’s the exciting part, the anticipation.

In our industry, there’s always more to learn, more opportunities to master your craft, new options to explore, new services to add (eyelash enhancements or extensions for instance— see pages 33 and 34).

To help you envision what’s next and what’s possible, I invite you to experience “a day in the life” of three successful new stylists, beginning on page 49. All are in-demand and taking control of their careers. Learn how they have worked—and plan to keep changing—to ensure their success and chart their growth.

As you prepare to become a professional, be sure your transition plan includes simple steps you can take to immerse yourself in this industry. Be sure you join the 50,000 beauty pros who “like” MODERN S SALON’s page on Facebook. It’s one easy way to stay connected to the world of beauty, and could even be your first opportunity to get your work published. co Throughout all of your career eer stages, I and the entire team at MODERN SALON Media wish you continued success, ss, and thank you for making First Chair a part of your journey.

A

Good luck!

P.S. Friend me on Facebook! facebook.com/modern.alison

editor

ashipley@vancepublishing.com 400 Knightsbridge Parkway Lincolnshire, Illinois 60069

8 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

COLORS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Did You ‘ear About Van Gogh?, Pedal Faster Suzi!, Kiss Me on My Tulips, Red Lights Ahead…Where?, A Roll in The Hague, Gouda Gouda Two Shoes, I Have a Herring Problem, Thanks a WindMillion, I Don’t Give a Rotterdam!, Dutch ‘Ya Just Love OPI?, Vampsterdam, Wooden Shoe Like to Know?

NATIONAL RELEASE DATE: 2/8/12 12-piece display

Model is wearing KISS ME ON MY TULIPS CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE For more information, contact your local OPI distributor.

Call 800.341.9999 ©2012 OPI Products Inc.

FirstGlance

s n o i s s i m b Student Su

Want a place to showcase your latest work? Snap a photo of a client with a hair style or color that made you proud, submit a style from a hair competition OR submit an image from a recent photoshoot to the Student Styles section of firstchair.com. Each week new styles are chosen to be posted on the website and on FIRST CHAIR’S Facebook page. What are you waiting for? Submit today!

Jahzel Montano, student at Paul Mitchell The School Atlanta, GA

Laura Holmes, student at Aveda Institute Corpus Christi, TX

Lizbeth Tapia, freelance stylist in East Stroudsburg, PA

Ashlee Morrow, Salon Success Academy in Riverside, CA

Diosmary Estevez, Diosmary’s Salon in Bronx, NY

Lizbeth Tapia, freelance stylist in East Stroudsburg, PA

With today’s multi-tasking culture craze, being able to create looks that can easily go from day into evening is crucial for stylists to master. The day look should be more understated without a lot of fuss. Then, for an easy way for your clients to take that look into the evening, add a punch of color to the style with a headband or clip that complements her fashion, says Mireya Villarreal, Lead Designer for Pink Pewter, makers of high-fashion hair accessories.

“When trying different looks for your clients, don’t be afraid to double-up thin headbands or place multiple flower clips in their hair, even if they’re different colors. Just keep them close together, so the look stays neat and not ‘flower child,’” Villarreal says.

“Right now, the trend is ‘undone’ updos. To keep the look elegant, top off updos with bejeweled or embellished hair accessories. The accessories make the look fresh, fun and elegant.”

ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Meet the winners of Matrix Spread the Love 2012!

These six recent grads are sharing their journey of a lifetime as they travel to different states, salons and events, exploring the country, connecting with stylists and learning the ins and outs of the professional beauty industry. Each week, the teams of two visit and work with salons, attend beauty shows and take in all facets of the industry, including education from their Matrix Artistic Director mentors. They learn new technical skills, salon business practices, and the special ways salons touch their communities—all in exchange for blogging and documenting their experience on mymatrixfamily.com.

Clockwise from top: Natalie Fox, 23, Kohler Academy, Scottsdale, AZ Todd Kane, 43, Kohler Academy, Scottsdale, AZ Suzy Henningsgard, 26, Aveda Institute, Minneapolis, MN Timmy Willy, 21, Lafayette Beauty Academy, Lafayette, IN Joshua Falewitch, 21, Xenon International Academy, Omaha, NE Meredith Tye, 25, Caldwell County Community College and Technical Institute, Hudson, NC

vanTake ad our new y f o e tus tag ional sta profess the benefits p and rea oProf ProClub , s m of a Cos ip. It’s free (ye of rsh membe d there’s tons nced free!) an r. You get adva arly membe ized for you), e g in i d be a (custom nly coupons an f perks to pro s o m r bers-o being a part o s and m le e a s m f , o s is sse s of tiion notifica shows and cla e added bonu in all you need e f th ’r jo notice o -letters—plus ustry pros. To proof that you d e on or monthly ity of beauty in sional license leted applicati p s un n a comm on of your profe ubmit your com mplete and sig s o ti verifica tology school, rof store, and c tating that, as e in cosm nearby CosmoP se Agreement s st product at your ssional Purcha the fight again to sign a Profe ber, you join in members.com a mem n. Visit proclub saving! rt diversio up—and sta

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Scan with your smartphone to hear from Matrix VP/General Manager Colin Walsh on the importance of Spread the Love.

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modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 11

FirstGlance

Wendi Levy and Kim Etheredge Founders of Mixed Chicks It is imperative to remember education should not cease once you receive your cosmetology license. We suggest attending trade shows—many of them offer classes at no or minimal costs with the purchase of a ticket. Check your local professional beauty supply stores like CosmoProf—they are excellent sources for continuing education.

You will find a host of courses offered by different manufacturers usually listed in their monthly catalogues. You can even contact product companies that specialize in manufacturing styling tools and implements geared toward textured hair directly to see if they too, offer any continuing e education or product knowledwge classes. Many grant CEC hours, of-ten required by states when renew-ing your cosmetology license.

Just remember that your optionss in the field of hair care are limitless..

Soak up all of the information and education you can, one day some-one will look to you for advice and guidance. Be ready to pay it forward!

Cosmetology students have the ability to be savvier than ever with regard to taking control of their financial destiny—through technology. Schools teach the business side of beauty along with the techniques and practical application knowledge new stylists will need to succeed. These numbers needed for success are easily tracked through the use of technology and computer software—unless you like spending hours or days a month to generate the numbers and, by then, it’s too late to affect them! Learning what to expect out of salon software will make you a dangerous—as my friend Robert Cromeans loves to say—and powerful new stylist when you get on the floor for the first time.What are some of the numbers and features that are important to understand as you near graduation?

5 key growth indicators: 1. New Clients Per Month Are you generating new guests and referrals?

2. New Client Retention Are you keeping new clients so they come back at least a second time?

3. Repeat Client Retention How are your services and reputation? Are your existing clients getting what they need so they stay?

4. Frequency of Visit This is one of the most important aspects of a new stylist’s career. Getting people in more often by prebooking.

5. Average Ticket Are you upselling services and adding on retail items?

If you know these numbers or add them to your resume I guarantee you will impress a potential salon manager or owner. You are in control of your paycheck and technology can give you the numbers you need in-the-moment to meet goals and build a full book of happy clients who come in frequently and spend more! Put your software and technology to work for you on a daily basis and use it to change your future.

—John Harms, Founder, CEO, Millennium Salon Software

When making a decision about a career opportunity, it is important to understand the expectations of the salon. Recent graduates should do initial research on the potential salon employer as they prepare for the interview process. This will give you an understanding of the salon services offered, hours of operation and other information so you can prepare for the interview.

Let the employer know from the very beginning you are a potential employee who is a team player, has a strong work ethic and is motivated and passionate to learn. Employers need to know how a potential employee will market themselves to build a clientele, work in the salon toward the common goal of delivering first-rate customer service. New stylists should be open to new experiences, ideas and challenges. Find a mentor who can help you create realistic goals about your career accomplishments and never stop learning.

—Dorothy McKinley-Soressi, Vice President, Industry Relations, Empire Education Group

12 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

A student becomes a master at their craft by always keeping the learning mindset. Every day be open to learning something new no matter what your age or how long you are in your craft. The essential key is to put into action what you learned in order to grow and move forward. When you are green, you’re growing, when you’re ripe you rot.

—Dennis Bernard Campanaro, President, Dennis Bernard Inc.

After graduation, students should try to get hired by salons that have mentoring programs and offer advanced education in all aspects of the business—both theory and practical.

They should also attend as many trade shows as possible that offer education. Another approach is to apply to work part-time for manufacturers who can teach presentation and technical skills.

—Jeff Schwartz, Vice President of Sales, The Cricket Company

The best way for a student to take care of their career after graduating is to know what they want to achieve, then make a plan to reach that goal. For example, if you want to be a master colorist, find a salon or stylist who specializes in color to work with as an assistant, take classes to learn new techniques and technologies, join competitions, and practice, practice, practice.

—Tracey Bell, Business Manager, Fromm International

I remember graduating cosmetology school with all that energy and excitement, and though cosmetology school teaches the fundamentals and a great foundation for the industry, they can’t teach you everything to truly succeed in this business. All graduating students need to research salons to see if they offer an apprentice program, or additional educational classes.

Once they receive their license they should always reach out to any educational event that will keep them sharp, and updated on an new trends. Having a great salon mentor will make new grads even more confident and keep that fire burning so they will succeed and never loose that energy!

—Dixie Russell, Manager, CHI Schools Program

Get a mentor. Get connected with someone who knows what you want to know, is where you want to be and is doing what you want to do. Get some practice. Cut anyone and everyone who will sit still long enough to let you. Volume teaches big lessons. Education does not stop at graduation. It is just the beginning of learning in the beauty industry.

—Ivan Zoot, Director of Education and Customer Engagement, Andis Company

5 Photoshoot Tips

from industryy pphotographer Roberto Ligresti 1. Not everyone is born with the right amount of hair to perfectly achieve your vision. Although it’s important to know how to work with existing hair, sometimes hairpieces and extensions can assist in executing your concept. Remember to bring extra hair pieces in case you end up needing it.

2. Try to ask for your photographer’s feedback before booking a model for a shoot. I cannot stress enough how important that is, and how rarely that occurs! Often, the stylist is so focused on the model’s hair, he or she can forget to look at the facial structure of the model. I once did a shoot where the stylist limited herself in choosing only models with platinum blonde hair.

I arrived on set not knowing who the models were going to be and there I saw a group of very uninteresting looking women. The platinum hair ended up being covered by lace-front wigs and I was stuck with models I would have never chosen, wearing wigs. Not good.

3. Make sure to look at the facial structure of the model. Everyone has a side wider than the other and a more prominent cheekbone. An experienced model will tell you which side of the face she likes to ‘work’ but make sure to ask her; and if possible, part the hair on the opposite side, so when she moves toward her favorite angle her face shows more.

4. Don’t spend too much time on set working on the model and interrupting the flow of the session to fix something that can be easily corrected in postproduction. Look at the computer monitor and make the hair adjustments accordingly.

5. Most importantly remember you are part of a team and everyone on set has the same goal of creating the best image possible!

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 13

F FirstGlance

The American Association of Cosmetology Schools is a network of more than 900 schools dedicated to providing excellence in beauty education, and to champion a message of “Beauty Changes Lives.” Discover how beauty changed the life of Charles Marcus, who overcame a 25-year severe stuttering disability with the help of the professional beauty industry. Share your own journey with Editor Alison Shipley, ashipley@vancepublishing.com—your story could appear here!

“I

started stuttering when I was four and a half years old. It would sometimes take me several minutes just to say my own name. Growing up, I felt inferior to other people, standing out for all the wrong reasons. I used to try and overcompensate for my stuttering, wanting to be liked and accepted.

I missed out on so much in my childhood and teenage years, suffering much rejection and ridicule. Kids were tough on me and teachers ignored me when I tried to ask a question in class. Later, job interviews challenged and frustrated me.

“My school counselor, Sue, always believed in me even when others doubted my ability. Sue suggested a career in the arts, fashion or beauty industry, as she could see, although I couldn’t speak very well, I was very gifted and creative in those areas.

“I eventually got an interview and secured a position as an assistant hairdresser at the world-famous Vidal Sassoon salons. I grabbed my opportunity with Sassoon and began a successful international career with them and later owned several award-winning salons in England, where I was born. When other industries and professions laughed at me and would not even give me the time of day, the beauty industry embraced and welcomed me with open arms, judging me on talent and attitude—not on the way I spoke, but what I contributed.

“I have been involved in our great industry for 25 years and have enjoyed fantastic times and met the most incredible people. This industry is diverse, welcoming, exciting and offers so many variations to a wonderful and rewarding career. There is no industry like it.

14 firstchair.com spring 2012

“I did eventually get my speech together. It took me many years but, through the help of some fantastic speech therapists and experts, I now control my speech instead of it controlling me. Today, I make my career as a professional speaker both within and outside the beauty industry. It is ironic that my speech once was my greatest enemy; now it’s my friend and greatest asset.”

Charles Marcus’ lessons learned:

1 2 3 4 5

When someone gives you an opportunity, grab it and don’t look back.

Always have a strong work ethic, there is no substitute for hard work.

Life is not about deserve, life is about desire; how much do you want it?

Don’t just focus on being successful, focus on being significant, making a difference in people’s lives.

The beauty industry will take you as far as you want to go and can fulfill all of your dreams. Go for it and enjoy the journey!

vibrant colors as

creative

TM

Rediscover Wella Color Charm and Liquifuse™ Technology. Now with an Improved floral fragrance, the formula saturates, penetrates and fuses even the most resistant hair to deliver vibrant color. Create long lasting color your clients will love.

Model’s haircolor: 7R/810, 6RV/607, 6RG/544. Sectioning/technique at colorcharm.com ©2011 THE WELLA CORPORATION, WOODLAND HILLS, CA 91367. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. HOTLINE: 1-866-722-4146 WSP-NA-R050-11

as you are

F FirstGlance

hem, Owner, Patrick McIvor Color Studio, Bethle or Pennsylvania and Matrix Artistic Color Direct

it was the first time anyone had ever talked to them about AIDS, and gave them the facts.

Beauty school is a ticket out for most of these students— they don’t have strong support systems. Many have family members in jail or on drugs, get pregnant in their teens and struggle with the negative forces in their community.

Beauty school is their safe place. A place where they can not only learn skills to support themselves and create independence and financial security, but a place where they can also turn to for social and personal guidance that helps build confidence, success and freedom.

Having the tools and education to help others who may not be as informed about issues as serious as AIDS prevention empowers you, as the professional, to spread the world. Beauty truly can change lives.

Rock The Purple

Most people go to work and come home without ever creating beauty of or change. Hairdressers are some ate the luckiest professionals; we cre beauty and change everyday!

Hairdressers Against Aids In 2010, L’Oréal partnered with the United Nations to create a worldwide education initiative, L’Oréal Hairdressers Against Aids, based on a program that started in South Africa 10 years earlier with Mizani. By 2009, Hairdressers Against Aids was in dozens of countries around the world, but not yet in the U.S. Last year, I had the honor, along with 500 other hairdressers, to go to the UN and hear top scientists, activists and AIDS educators from around the world. In addition to the knowledge they shared, it was their understanding that if we hairdressers use our voice and power, we can create a beautiful world without AIDS—empowering people to get tested, stay HIV negative—or if HIV positive, know where to get treatment to live a better life and understand prevention.

In 2010 on World AIDS Day, L’Oréal/UN Hairdressers Against AIDS again mobilized, but instead of descending on the streets of Manhattan, we fanned out across the country and visited beauty schools. I had the opportunity to return to Middlesex County Vo-Tech system, where I graduated from their East Brunswick Adult Cosmetology Program. I visited Debra Ciesielski’s class on the Piscataway Campus and it was really special because we had graduated together 26 years ago.

Our day began with an assembly sharing the facts and myths about AIDS and, based on our feedback, it was amazing how much misinformation is out there. After the assembly, I spent the rest of the day with the students sharing ideas about hair color. What struck both Debra and I the most was the amount of students who told us 18 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

We share and hear so many intimate, exciting, and sometimes tragic, glimpses into lives that many times no one else knows. When I was just beginning my career as a hairdresser, I learned from one of my guests that she was a victim of abuse, and the salon was the only place her husband allowed her to go without him—and that is the case for others as well. Our industry is harvesting our power and the unique relationship we have with our guests and Cutting Out Domestic Abuse. I work with the Purple Ribbon Council and we’ve partnered with the Hard Rock Cafe to create Rock The Purple which takes place at Hard Rock Cafés across the country—pairing live music and hairdressers to raise awareness for domestic abuse; where to get help, how to stay safe and what to do in an abusive relationship. It is always an amazing night and thanks to So.Cap USA, hundreds of people leave the Rock The Purple events “rocking” purple extensions—beauty and change.

Your Chair is a Chair Of Change It is amazing how much power the chairs we stand behind have, that’s why Matrix created Chairs Of Change. We do so much for others, but there was never a platform to celebrate the positive changes hairdressers make on a daily basis. The funny part about making a positive impact is the more people who know about it, the more support we get and the more good we can do. So, whether it’s a personal change like giving up smoking or saving for education, a professional change like a cut-a-thon that benefits others, or a national/worldwide change like Hairdressers Against AIDS and Rock The Purple, you can find the support, get the help you need or get involved in making the changes you wish to see in the world at chairsofchange.com.

FirstView

Kris Sorbie is recognized as a leader in hair color concepts and techniques, and a master in the field of long hair styling and finishing. Integrating her years of diverse experience as an art director, color consultant, video producer and Redken Exchange facilitator, Sorbie brings innovative trends and fashion-forward artistry to the forefront of the salon industry.

1960

'7 years old and I had already decided I was done with school because I wanted to be a hairdresser”

1966

At 14, Sorbie lands her first salon job at Vittorio’s Salon, Putney, London where they allowed her to apply color to clients. “My confidence at that time was through the roof,” she says. “I believed I could do it until I dropped the visor of a hood dryer on a client’s nose, which instantly swelled and it was her wedding day!”

1973

Joins Shyloks Hair Salon, Kingston, UK, and has first taste of being an educator on a stage, sharing techniques she had designed. “Finally I was home—I had fallen in love with educating and giving back.”

20 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

her “Box Bob.”

After a 2-year course in Gentlemen’s Barbering, Ladies Hairdressing and Beauty Culture, graduates from Chiswick Polytechnic, London. Within one year, has 10 jobs at different salons. “My Mom thought I was unemployable—all I knew was I had to find the right salon, one where I felt I belonged, although at the time I had no idea what that actually meant.”

Sorbie in 1973 with

1972

Baby Kris and Mum.

Sorbie in garden wearing her mother’s shoes.

1996 1

Trevor Sorbie asks her to color a wig T tto resemble British Camoufl age for tthe Best of Trevor Sorbie as part of a L’Oréal Show in London. “It was an amazing period in my career when I a was working with incredible talent w llike Trevor, Angelo Seminara, Eugene Souleiman and Antoinette Beenders.”

S

Sorbie wins Most Inspirational Educator.

1998

Invited to do the international segment of HairColor USA in Miami. She creates striped and checkerboard ponytails on twin models. “Later I was shocked to hear I had won Most Inspirational Educator Award!”

2000

Moves from London to New York and becomes the Global Artistic Director of Color for Redken 5th Ave.

1998 Sorbie on stage at Redken

Symposium.

2002

Wins Master Hairstylist of the year at the North American Hairstyling Awards.

Sorbie and Redken’s Chris Baran win at NAHA.

Sorbi Avant Sorbie’s Gar Garde Show.

HairColor USA models pose with Sorbie.

2004

Participates in the Alternative Hair Show.

Compiles Visions in Hair, a pictorial book honoring Trevor Sorbie’s career. “I wanted testimonials for the inside cover, so called on all our friends in the industry. It’s so important to surround yourself with like-minded people.”

Anthony Mascolo Sorbie with industry icons is. (and wife Pat) and Keith Harr

2010

2009

Begins own company, Kris Sorbie LLC, where she develops the B-Ing Where You Want To B DVD.

Launches the Bespoke Color and Bespoke Long Hair, Up Styling handson programs around the country.

Sorbie in action

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2012

Learns she is a finalist in NAHA’s Master Hairstylist and Avant Garde categories.

Photography: Nico Iliev

2011

Launches Mem MembersOnly, an interactive, online with a learning tool w hair color monthly, new h technique, a long lon hair video every up-styling vide weekly four weeks, a w image to inspirational im ignite creativity creativit and business, daily tips on b branding and brand more. mo A finished look.

Find the tutorial on MembersOnly.

FirstView

Anthony Cole Sebastian Professional Stylist Design Team member Anthony Cole stays motivated and passionate about the beauty industry by staying focused on his goals: do what he loves. As a Design Team member, Cole participates in editorial photoshoots, works backstage at New York Fashion Week, and educates, travels and inspires his team.

“My goal every day is to excite people and inspire them to step out of the box,” Cole says. “Education has always been a strong foundation for me. I have spent much of my time traveling to different parts of the world to be inspired by all cultures.” Sebastian, Cole says, was the first to inspire him to become an educator. “From that point forward, I have dedicated myself to education and inspiring others.”

1966: October 23, Anthony Cole is born.

1982

At 17, Cole realizes he wants to become a stylist. “I saw hair styling as a way to express myself,” he says.

1983

Graduates from Ultissima Beauty School.

1984 Gets his first chair at Sans Egal salon. “Working with clients allowed me to really expand my creativity.”

1987 photo: Bill Knapp

22 firstchair.com spring 2012

Attends the UK’s Vidal Sassoon Academy. “This really let me tune into my cutting techniques and built my confidence in cutting—and made me realize I wanted to become an educator.”

1998

1996

At age 30, does his first International Coiffure show, where he realizes his desire to become a platform artist.

Becomes an educator for Sebastian Professional. “Sebastian helped me as a stylist and educator to think my way out of the box, look at things in a new and unconventional way, which then allowed me to expand my artistry.”

Cole at Intercoiffure, on stage educating.

2008

1999

Begins educating again for Sebastian. Meets Sebastian artist Thomas Dunkin, and begins working with him at New York Fashion Week and feeling inspired by his editorial work.

“I realized I wanted to grow my career even further as an editorial stylist. Since then I’ve been working with many magazines internationally.”

Opens his own salon which he owned for 9 years. “But, I realized I missed being on the road inspiring and educating.”

Cole working backstage at New York Fashion Week as part of the Sebastian Professional team.

2009 2011

Becomes an official International Core Team Member for Sebastian. “In this role I’m able to share my creative energy with the world and receive inspiration from different cultures’ fashion and styling techniques.

Becomes a member of Sebastian’s Core Team, where he can teach and inspire—his two favorite things.

Cole as a member of the International Core Team for Sebastian.

ek.

: 2012

e ion W Fash k r o Y New

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 23

FirstSkills

Award-Worthyy Hair

Awards season is among us and though your clients may not get an invitation to hit the red carpet, there’s no reason they can’t have award-worthy hair at their viewing party. For the latest in styles, Pam Kelly, National Director of Technical Services for Fantastic Sams Salons, reveals her favorite red carpet-worthy styles that will be sure to turn heads.

Swept away:

Dressy Buns: The bun is a simple style—both elegant and feminine—but can be modernized and made youthful with a few simple tricks. Add drama to low and loose buns with face-framing pieces or a deep side part. A trendy take on this classic is to weave a braided fringe into the style. Top knots are essentially buns placed high on the head. To create this high-impact style, pull the hair high and tight to the crown, securing into a large, texturized bun. Top knots can be both smooth and sleek or funky and fun.

Actress Charlize Theron at the17th Annual Critics Choice Movie Awards.

Photo by Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic

Half updos:

This versatile style is the best of both worlds. Although the front—which is pulled up— complements the face, this style still allows length and texture to steal the show.

This is a great alternative for long- or mid-length hair and has a youthful, elegant appeal.

Some of the most popular special occasion hair trends have tresses styled to the side. Whether it’s a low side chignon, a loose braid, or hair styled into glamorous waves, side-swept hair adds an element of drama to any look. It works with a range of styles and lengths, and can be used on straight or textured styles. The side-swept style should depict undone sophistication with a touch of glamour and softness.

Actress Ashley Greene attends Loveisrespect’s ‘Louder Than Words’ Launch Party.

Jennifer Hudson attends the amfAR New York Gala To Kick Off Fall 2012 Fashion Week.

Michelle Williams at the Golden Globes wore a headband with a jeweled brooch.

Photo by Jason Kempin/WireImage

Photo by Michael Tran FilmMagic

Crimped:

Photo by Valerie Macon/Getty Images

Kristen Stewart at The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn Part 1 UK Premiere.

Photo by Jon Furniss/WireImage

Follow MODERN SALON on Pinterest for more award-worthy looks: on n pinterest.com/modernsalon

24 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

For a modern, youthful look, crimped hair is making a huge comeback.

Crimping adds texture and volume to any design.

Accessorize: Embellished headbands, hairpins, barrettes, and other jeweled accessories add a fun and glamorous touch to any style. The best accessories are not only pretty, but functional as they help hold hair in place. If hair is worn in a short style, hair accessories will add instant glamour and femininity to the look.

Award-Worthy Aw wa Hair 1.

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Dressy buns Half updos Swept away Crimped Accessorize

Design Disinfection Tips K

eeping you and your you clients safe through throug proper sanitation sanita and disinfection disinfect procedures is i crucial for a healthy he salon environenvir ment. National Nation Director of Educatio Education and Market Development Developmen evelopmen for Barbicide Leslie a registered e Roste, Ro regi nurse, provides simple ple tips that will keep your station and toolss clean, safe and never a ne health risk for you or your clients. For more information on practicing proper sanitation, visit barbicide.com.

1. Always know your state laws regarding infection control. What’s required in one state, may be illegal in another. For your state’s laws, go to barbicide.com, and click on “education center.”

2. Always clean items before disinfecting— this can be done with a commercial cleaner or plain soap and water.

3. Always mix disinfectants according to the label—this assures you have the right amount of concentrate to do the job without wasting any product. If the disinfectant is too concentrated, you can even risk damaging your tools.

4. Always know the contact time for your disinfectant—that is the amount of time required for items to be in contact with a disinfectant for it to be effective against germs.

5. Always change your disinfectant according to your state’s laws and manufacturer’s instructions. The longer it sits, and the dirtier the liquid is, the less effective it can be in preventing infection.

Thinning hair concerns are often associated with male clients. But, Nioxin recently conducted a survey of women between the ages of 18 and 55 and, somewhat surprisingly, the results showed thinning hair is the second-most worrisome sign of aging among American women, second only to wrinkles. What does that mean for you, the professional? Opportunities to not only relieve the thinning hair fear your female clients face, but also additional dollars in your pocket if you can provide full, healthy hair for your clients, no matter her age. Still not convinced?

Here are some more stats the survey determined:

Would You Rather…?

When asked what they would sacrifice for 30 days in exchange for thicker, fuller hair, many of women’s most prized possessions went by the wayside.

• 57% of respondents would forego coffee • 50% would sacrifice their favorite food • 34% would give up changing their bedsheets • 6% would stop brushing their teeth

Appearance • • •

91% of survey participants feel men are more attracted to women with long, healthy hair 68% of women are seeing more hair on their hairbrush, shower drain and floor than usual 87% feel their hair is a part of their personality

Prevention and Treatment •

75% of respondents experience thinning hair and 84% find it important to take measures to prevent thinning hair • 65% have tried to make their hair appear fuller, and 47% of those women were unsuccessful in finding an effective hair thickening treatment • 87% trust their hair stylists for advice on thinning hair treatments

What You Can Do Stay on top of what you can offer your clients at the salon and at home to help prevent and treat thinning hair concerns—whether that’s a scalp dermabrasion service to remove build-up around hair follicles, an at-home maintenance program after they leave your chair to continue to promote a healthy scalp environment, retail products to reduce the effects of thinning hair, or even more advanced treatments like lasers to encourage new growth. Remember, it is your job as the professional to be the expert. modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 25

DD EeSsIG igN n e l a M cement n a h En FirstSkills

Let’s face it: cutting men’s hair isn’t always as easy at it looks. It takes

time, practice and continuing education to become comfortable in the art of men’s grooming. Master Barber Greg Zorian, founder of the Gregory’s Barbershops in upstate New York, is a third generation barber—and is an expert in the field of men’s grooming. First Chair asked Zorian, who developed the Masters of Barbering online educational program, his advice for beauty grads to become successful men’s groomers.

“You Play Like You Practice” This is a direct quote from my high school football coach Bruno Mars

and it is so true. Practice is everything. The best at anything in life are the best because they are never satisfied and continue to practice. Make sure to get extra repetitions on hair cuts or services you are the most uncomfortable doing when you are in school. If you are out of school, offer free services when you are not on the book or on the clock. Once you get these services down in practice you will be able to duplicate them on a paying client.

Don’t Cut Hair by Numbers

When giving a clipper cut, it is much more professional to refer to the different attachments by measurement than by number. For example: Explaining the hair cut as a three-finger high ½” taper sounds more professional than, “you get a number 3 clipper cut.” When a client is not educated and asks for a “number 3” cut, it does not tell you how high he wants the taper or if he likes skin showing or complete scalp coverage. Additionally, attachments do not have a universal numbering system. A number 1 attachment may be the longest for one brand and the shortest for another. There are also attachments that just have the measurement listed on them without a number.

Scissor-over-Comb:

Scissor-over-comb is the secret weapon in men’s hair cutting—it is the oldest and best technique. There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist and all cutting was done with w different-sized combs, scissors and straight razors. Clients associate a higher level of skill with this technique, instead of just putting an attachment on a clipper and running a number 3 up the sides. This is a great n way w to show your clients you have a superior skill level and take a lot of pride in your hair cuts.

If You Don’t Make a Weight Line You Won’t Have to Blend it Out: This has to be the most debated topic in men’s hair cutting. When cutting any type of faded or

David Beckham

graduated cut it is much easier to blend from longer to shorter. By cutting the hair in this manner you will never g lleave a weight line or hard line of demarcation that is very difficult and time consuming to blend out. Begin on the top and work down from the longest to shortest lengths. This works with a clipper and attachments or o different-length combs with the scissor/clipper-over-comb cutting technique. Your efficiency and quality of cuts d will increase tremendously when cutting in this manner. w

It is Only a Cowlick if Cut Too Short An entire book could be written on the different types of cowlicks and how to deal with them. The most important thing to remember is it is only a cowlick e iif it is cut too short. This may sound over simplified but if you don’t cut the hair too short in the crown or the pivot area the hair will not stick up. Take the extra time combing or brushing through the hair before you begin p ccutting to get a feel for the natural fall of the hair. This will determine how short you can cut the hair on the top ssection and how high the hair can be tapered on the sides and in the back.

Dress for Success This applies to students as well as industry professionals. Your image is everything. We are in a grooming business—clients come to you for your services because they want to look e and feel better. The more put together and professional you look the more confidence the client will have in a yyou. Your hair should be done every day for school or work as well as your make-up—before you get there.

Your clothes should be ironed and always professional. Fellow students, co-workers, teachers and clients will all notice you take pride in your chosen profession.

Taylo r

Greet Your Client with Confidence

Lautn er

Everyone wants to feel welcome and important. The best and only way to do this correctly is to greet your client by name with a handshake and a smile every time they are in for a service. This tells them you care about them personally and value their business.

We are in the customer-service business as well as the beauty industry. Clients become repeat clients because of the way they are treated just as much as they do for the quality of the service they are receiving. In a business where there is a lot of competition we need every edge we can get.

Photos: Getty Images

26 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

FirstSkills

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When it comes to guys’ color, it’s all about the full fringe. With younger men embracing longer looks (but never admitting they’re stealing Justin Bieber’s style), it’s the perfect place for a shady accent—from subtle and dark to theatrically light and bright. Just be sure to keep the color on the cool side. Even when older men are camouflaging unpigmented hair—never say gray—color the base but leave the ends natural. Otherwise, ends risk going too warm. In opposition to women, who might color first, men typically adapt the color to the cut. These looks from salons across the globe show how it’s done.

1. Lots of cut-in texture shows off subtle lowlights through the fringe of a rich, dark brown. (Hair by the Identity Salon Educational Team, Identity Hair Salons and Spas, Cincinnati, OH.) 2.

A textured top is perfect for blonde edging along the front, where it accents the sideswept fringe.

(Hair by Teresa McGaha, Mouton’s Salon, Grapevine, TX.) 3. Super-strong shapes and geometric fringes are perfect for cold, metallic, lacquered black. (Hair by Stefan Herz, Herz Hair Design in Ottweiler, Germany.) 4. A client with warm eyes can sport warmer hues if placed in the fringe.

Cooler coloring in the rest of the hair keeps the overall effect just right. (Hair by PK Design Team, Paul Kenneth Salon, Woburn, MA.)

1.

Photography: Tom Carson Production: Global Hair and Fashion Group

28 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Color

Strong shapes with soft texture can go from classic to over-the-edge when you add bright colors to the mix.

Color Happy William De Ridder, owner of De Ridder International and De Ridder Academy, in Bruges, Belgium, created these looks by emphasizing the perimeters. Level-9 blondes look great with geometric cuts that are creatively color-edged. Artistic Director for Intercoiffure, Belgium, De Ridder partnered with Esani Institute, an Atlanta Paul Mitchell Partner School, to bring these trends and advanced education to the U.S. Photography: Pat Verbruggen

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 29

FirstSkills

DES CIG oloNr

Survey SAYS! MODERN SALON’s Facebook community of 50,000 fans continues to grow by the minute. Not only because of the work, inspiration and education we share, but largely because of the work, inspiration and education you share!

MODERN SALON posted the question: “You know you’re a hair stylist when _________” and the comments came flooding in—nearly 600 replies, and all of them were hilarious. Check out some of our favorite responses to:

“you know you’re a colorist when __________.”

Chad E Brannon You look in your closet and you realize you only own black clothes.

Cindy Miller Pruett You use sharpie markers to cover up bleach spots in your clothes.

Jayme Williamson It takes you 8 months to get your own hair done.

Lauren Grace Your fingers, nails and arms are always dyed different colors and it freaks everyone out.

Lauren Mayer When you have color all over your arms and don’t care when you go out that night. Battle wounds!

Noelle Stepp You get excited when there is the exact amount of ounces of color that you need left in the tube of color that you grab to mix your formula.

Pamela Cutler You go to work in the morning, booked back to back, still manage to work in a guest who needs you, you don’t eat or pee all day, you go home at least 10 hours later with a smile on your face and in your heart—because you rocked out some amazing hair and made the people you touched feel like a celebrity—and you’re ready again the next day! We are lucky!

Katie Liebert When you remember someone by their color formula.

Charles Ladner If you ever prayed to the “Color God” in the backroom.

30 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Q&A WITH BETH MINARDI You’ve got questions, Beth has answers! In this ongoing series in MODERN SALON, Facebook fans share their color conundrums with Beth Minardi, award-winning colorist, NYC salon owner and spokesperson for Joico Vero K-Pak color. When you spot the Color Social post on MODERN’s Facebook page (facebook.com/modernsalon), share your color challenges!

Q: How do you take a platinum blonde to a darker blonde without the hair turning gray, slate or steel-colored?

A: “Never apply an ‘allover’ toner,” says Minardi. “Instead lowlight with a conditioning, non-ammonia demipermanent shade. Omit some of the ends of the hair lengths as you paint. Mix a light, golden-blonde shade with a lightest neutral blonde in equal proportions. I paint a pre-wash creme treatment onto the hair between foils to protect and to prevent porous hair lengths from ‘grabbing’ toner.”

Q: What is your favorite lowlight formula for light gray blending?

A: “Demipermanent acid formulas should be the colorist’s best friend,” says Minardi. “They’re the best, lowimpact choice for lowlighting, refreshing midlengths and ends, and light gray blending. I believe you should only lowlight with demipermanent acidic formulas because lowlighting with permanent color will cause the ends to look muddy. And correctly done, demis can last longer than permanent color. Remember, when your blonde client tells you she wants to be brunette, don’t do it. Lowlight her instead, because even though she doesn’t know it yet, every blonde strand you leave on her head will be her friend.”

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FirstSkills

SUZI SPRING NAILS Spring is in the air, which means nail trends will be making a shift. But, what will be hot? “This season, I’ve noted three very different but equally beautiful colors for nails,” says OPI Executive VP & Artistic Director Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “Neutrals will continue to be popular, with new variations in cool pastel tones like the seagreen Thanks a WindMillion replacing winter’s olive green palette.”

As always, she says, spring also remains the season for bright hues, with orange shades like A Roll in the Hague adding a unique pop of color.

“Another nail hue receiving attention for spring is Vampsterdam, a dark purple lacquer,” she says. “The frosted finish adds warm tones to this deep color, and it offers a nice contrast to the season’s bold prints.”

Along with Vampsterdam, the other two shades also complement trends seen on Fashion Week’s runways—the neutral green Thanks a WindMillion can be worn with ladylike frocks and long, blousy-sleeved tops, while A Roll in the Hague can be used for color blocking with the season’s bright pants.

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Inspired by the trend “Treasured Antiquities” seen on spring runways, CND created a tarnished metallic nail look at designer Norman Ambrose’s Spring 2012 show.

Step 1: Apply a thin layer of CND Shellac Base Coat, cure for 10 seconds followed by two thin layers of CND Shellac Dark Lava. Cure each layer for two minutes.

Step 2: Using a CND Gel Oval Brush, pick up small pieces of multi-colored gold leaf and randomly place them on the nail. Press and smooth gently with the brush.

Step 3: Using the CND Gel Oval Brush, brush a very thin layer of CND Shellac Iced Coral over the entire nail and cure for two minutes. Apply a thin layer of CND Shellac Top Coat and cure for two minutes. Wipe with 99 percent Isopropyl Alcohol to remove top film.

Treat Their Skin Whether you’re a hairdresser, esthetician or massage tech, recommending products is key to your professionalism as well as your income— and, could be your client’s first line of defense against sun damage. Dr. Ahmed Abdulla, a board certified plastic surgeon and founder of Lexli skin care, provides these sun care tips: ❤ The difference between SPF 15 and SPF 100 is only 4 percent added protection. Pay less attention to the SPF and more attention to proper application. Sunscreen should be applied 15 minutes before venturing outdoors. ❤ Clients recently treated by dermabrasion, laser resurfacing or chemical peels are at increased risk of burn or skin damage following sun exposure.

Sunscreen for these individuals must be consistent. ❤ Increased humidity makes skin feel less dry, but don’t be fooled. Use of a moisturizer is required even in the summer.

32 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Esthetics

As a licensed professional, you should always be on the lookout for ways to expand your area of expertise. One of the biggest trends in the market right now is eyelash extension services.

1.

Check out this mini-technical from Novalash’s Lash Artist of the Year Christina Lynn Perez of Cheeky Strut salon in Grand Rapids, Michigan, to see how the lashes are applied. Consider getting certified in this booming category by visiting novalash.com.

2.

How-To 1. Make sure lashes are clean. Protect lower lashes with Novalash Nova Gel Patches.

Comb through with water on a tissue or clean with Novalash Pomegranate Pads, a make-up remover.

2. Wearing a glove, apply a drop of Platinum Bond Adhesive glue.

3.

3. Using a straight tweezer, select lash from prep table and place on the back of the glove. Coat the base with the glue. Make sure it is moderately coated. Excess can be wiped off.

4. Isolate a single lash. Using the extension as a paintbrush, coat the isolated natural lash. Place the extension on top of the natural lash, avoid contact with skin.

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5. Alternate from eye to eye, and repeat on all lashes allowing time between to dry. Use tweezers to keep lashes separated so they can grow out for extended wear and comfort.

For a natural look, keep longest lashes in the center. For a more dramatic look, apply the longest extensions at the outer corner.

6. Mist lightly with water. Fan about 2 minutes per eye, about 3-4 inches away from lashes. Go through and separate one more time and then remove the eyepads.

modernsalon.com spring 2011 firstchair.com 33

FirstSkills

Extension Education The Long and Short of It

Hair extensions can add length and volume, but think bigger! Results achieved through adding hair extensions are limitless. You can create a hair cut, correct a hair cut, add chemical-free highlights, cover a scar or alopecia or even fill in a fringe. Having skills in extensions opens the door to new service offerings and major earnings potential, and helps set you apart from the rest while you begin the search for your first salon job. Here, Great Lengths extension educators shed some light on the category. Photos courtesy Great Lengths

H

ow can you use extensions to help “create” or “correct” a hair cut?

“Extensions can be used to both create and correct hair cuts,” says Great Lengths educator Angie Waters-Embertson. “If a client sits down at your station and shows you a picture of a hair cut that their natural hair could never support whether due to their natural density, fine strands or chemical styling, extensions are the perfect solution to make their dream cut happen. You can grow out a client’s bangs in as little as an hour with extensions. Correcting a cut with extensions is just as easy—if the cut got too short you can add length, if there is that hole out of nowhere, you can fill it in with just a few strands.”

How do you introduce extensions to a client who wants color change without chemicals?

“There are benefits to using hair extensions as a way to add color to the client’s hair, instead of coloring her hair,” says Nanci Lee, a Great Lengths educator. “One of the benefits I tell clients is the opportunity to get dam-

34 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

age-free highlights. When adding lighter-colored extensions strategically throughout the head, there is no need to bleach or use a high-lift color.

And, extensions don’t fade nearly as fast as hair color—this includes highfashion, vibrant tones, which are usually the first to fade. Additionally, for clients who fear color, using extensions to experiment with different tones is a great opportunity for the client to ‘try on’ a new shade without committing to a chemical service. And, as a bonus, extensions give the added benefit of extra volume!”

How do you match hair extensions for clients with texture?

“Texture matching is done during the consultation process,” says Alejandro Lozano, educator for Great Lengths extensions. “It all depends on how the client wears her hair. If she has curly hair, and wears it curly 50 percent of the time or more, then the strands can be permed to match her existing hair. A stylist can do this, or it can be ordered pre-permed by the manufacturer. If the client wears her hair straight, even though her

Services

hair is curly, then nothing needs to be done with the strands. The strands come with a natural wave pattern. In the hair styling world, we refer to a wave as the size of an orange perm rod. But hair is a natural resource, so wave pattern can be slightly different each time. For an ethnic client, we recommend doing a texture service on the Great Length strand to match her texture.”

up to parietal, making sure I keep her favorite shades on board to blend with the existing shades in her hair. I prep, pre-blend or color all hair prior to the application day so I am able to provide my clients with the very best application with flawless color. This will keep each application looking completely natural and setting it apart from any others!”

How do you cut extensions to create a natural finish?

How do you match extensions to your client’s existing color?

“Performing a perfect consultation with the client for an extension service is essential, especially when it comes to matching the color,” says Great Lengths educator Nicole Misero Vazquez. “You must ask the client what she sees when she looks at her color—what tones and brightness she picks out—there are times she may pick out pieces of hair that are her favorite color. As professionals, we all know there are many ways to match color, however, with extensions it is key is to make sure the color is exactly what the client wants to see. Always have a layout—especially when working with many shades. I match my colors to the nape up to occipital. Then,

“I like to blend hair extensions using soft cutting techniques with either a razor, thinning shear or a straight shear,” says Keela Gajadha, Great Lengths educator. “But, my tool of choice is the razor, along with a stock pile of fresh blades. The razor gives a softer line to the ends, which allows the cut to be more natural looking by creating variations in lengths instead of a blunt line that can come along with regular shears. I then finish with my thinning shear to blend the natural hair. Remember, cutting extensions is very visual and can be time consuming. A final tip: Be sure not to rush through the cut after spending so much time building all of that length and volume.” modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 35

FirstSkills

*

Booked Solid

Rochelle Mosley, owner of Salon 814 in New York City, is a master of her craft—she keeps up with the latest techniques and current trends, constantly working on her own innovative styles while pushing the boundaries of hair. One of her greatest assets? Her clientele that has her book filled on a regular basis. Here is Mosley’s advice on how you, too, can get your clients (and their friends!) in your chair, and coming back time and time again—even as a beginner.

*

Learn the Skills One stylist may be really skilled at updos, don’t get intimidated if you aren’t—spend the time with her so you can learn the skills, too. Another stylist may be known for doing great color, shadow her and learn what best practices she’s using to be successful.

*

Be a good listener

Hairdressers can be like therapists.

Clients will share their problems, but you must never repeat them. Listen, be there for your client in the way he or she needs you, then put it in the archive.

They will love you for it.

*

Be on time

If you have a client at 9 a.m. and you arrive at 9 a.m., you should consider yourself late.

Arrive to the salon with enough time to get yourself together and begin at 9 a.m. sharp.

Once your clients know you are dependable, they will begin to refer their friends and, before you know it, your clientele will have doubled.

*

Find a mentor

While I was beginning my career, I learned from a wonderful stylist, Sharon Robinson, who taught me to be fast and efficient. You can find mentors without them knowing you are his or her mentee. Some don’t want the responsibility of being a teacher, so you don’t have to approach it that way. Just be a sponge to whatever anyone has to offer.

36 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Business Summit S alon Busin ess by followin g these gro Center’s Heather B agby says w-focused be on you practices r way to le y ou can arning—a nd earnin g—more.

Rebook. Your first goal is

Training Program It is essential to join a salon with a defined training program. This is your opportunity to earn a “master’s degree” in cosmetology. Working with an experienced stylist for six to 10 months will build confidence and enhance your guest handling skills.

a new artist. ote yourself as It is OK to prom mbination. cut and color co Perhaps offer a services and add additional Your goal is to nce. ptional experie create an exce

Retail

now is the time to educate your guests. Don’t miss the opportunity to tell each guest what products you used and why you used them. It is that simple.

Thank You Notes should be personal and handwritten! Thank you notes can be your point of difference and will set you apart from your competition.

to rebook 40 percent of all the guests you see. If you have 10 guests, four of them should make a future reservation before leaving your salon.

Make sure your salon has an a ggressive referral program to offer your guests—it makes your job that much easier.

A lot of your new gu ests will elect to call, rather than reserve another appointme nt before leaving the salon. You can offer your guests a “wak e-up call” one to two weeks befor e you need to see them again. It is an excellent way to stay connect ed and offer a great reminder ser vice.

Do not be afraid of the word no.

The worst thing a guest can say is, “no thank you!” If you hear the word no throughout the day, you are doing what you are supposed to be doing. Do not take it personally. Eventually you will start to hear “yes!”

Exceptional Guest Service uld you says, “Wo et d rl o w e r that th re not ups Remembe ” Guests a ervices. In t? a th h it like fries w r them additional s e and offe experienc t s e when you u g e consider ances th fact, it enh portunity for them to op s. creates an s during future visit e ic those serv

Exceed your guests’ expectations. Offer exceptional guest service on a consistent basis, and create an experience that your guests will embrace and look forward to.

FirstPassport

Across the globe, beauty is defined differently by various cultures. How beauty is taught in cosmetology schools worldwide is very different as well!

Mariana Vivero, director at Pivot Point Academy Ecuador, shares what it’s like to be a beauty school student in Guayaquil, Ecuador.

passport to

—Alison Shipley

H How is beauty defined in Ecuador?

IIn Ecuador the standards of attractiveness are qquite similar to those of different cultures. If symmetry, skin tone, color and proportion are sy genetically void of imperfections, a person can be gen considered beautiful. Tall people of any race or genconsid der are specially viewed as beautiful if they possess attractive traits. There is a desire to look naturally beautiful in most cases.

Billboards or magazines will focus on the desired market as to the models of beauty that will be displayed.

What is the cost of attending cosmetology school?

The cost of cosmetology schools varies enormously. You will find schools that will charge $40 a month and you will find others like ours that will charge $ 300 a month. Our school is considered by many as one of the most prestigious schools in the country.

education in order to graduate as a beautician. The requirement is months, not hours.

Is hairdressing considered a lucrative profession in Ecuador?

The profession is considered lucrative and more so every day. We at the academy spend a good deal of time and effort making sure the students understand the need for proper education, not only in beauty but also in business. Every time a class graduates we come closer to extinguishing the unpleasant stigma that one would become a hairdresser when nothing else was obtainable in life. Depending on the salon and the prices they charge, stylists in Ecuador typically earn a good living. There is an enormous necessity for good beauticians. The problem is finding them. Since most schools do not educate them properly, many graduate with deficient competence.

What services are popular in Ecuador?

How long does it take the average student to complete the cosmetology program?

In Ecuador it is required that a student receive 16 months of beauty

38 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

For the past few years we can say that hair straighteners and Keratin treatments have been a boom. That trend is winding down and we are going back to style and color as the most popular salon service.

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FirstStages

Tr How easily you can make each transition depends in part on the quality of the operation—school or salon. But it helps to understand the norm, the main challenges and the proactive steps you can take to ease your way from A to B to C.

Puttin’ on a Clinic

Moving from mannequins to talking heads is a world of difference.

Here’s how to make the transition a smooth one.

By Victoria Wurdinger

B

Today’s student salons have transformed themselves from the old perming factories to as close to the real deal as they can get—it helps if the schools are salon connected. For instance, at Eric Fisher Academy in Wichita, Kansas, the stustuEriic dent salon uses the same booking system as Eric Fisher salons, and even gives students a “paypayy ycheck” in the form of credits. Credits accruee for fo pre-bookings and add-on services, and cann be used toward purchases in the student store. tore.

(A low attendance or GPA voids the check, k, so students can see just what they lost.)

At the Carsten Aveda Institute in New

eauty pros in-training really make the client transition twice—once from classroom to clinic and again, from beauty-school clinic to salon. While the first transition can help you prep for the other, don’t count on many similarities.

The student salon is more about practicing technical skills than connecting with clients, building a business or savoring salon life. In fact, the salon experience is so different, that some stylists say you’ll set yourself back if you expect salon clients to look and act like those you snipped in school.

42 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Instructor Gloria Hortua says today’s clients know what they want. “They come me in with photos on their iPhones; the internet has changed the entire consultation process.” cess.” s

ansitionS From Classroom To Clinic To Salon York City, manager and lead instructor Gloria Hortua says students start on real people pre-clinic: in the classroom, models who get free cuts often replace mannequins. But, she says, once in the clinic, students have to sell their services, which requires confidence, and building it is the biggest challenge.

Part of the problem is there is so much to remember and practice technically that soft skills—talking to clients and building relationships—fall by the wayside. They just aren’t the main focus, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t start working on them.

“People skills are hardest to develop, but if you have them, the client will come back; if you’re fantastic technically but have no people skills, clients won’t return,” says Hortua. “To build confi dence, we advise students to avoid telling the client it’s their first time cutting. Also, remember it is a school clinic: the client knows this, is

classroo

m

paying a lower fee and has signed a release form. Think of it as just another class.”

Talking the Talk Patti Black, an Eric Fisher Academy educator, who was Milady’s 2011 Teacher of the Year, agrees that building confidence is the biggest challenge, and says when it comes to Milady’s 2011 Teacher of the soft skills, utilizing pre-planned Year Patti Black guides her clinic scripts make it seamless. students until they are ready to fl y—but y—b she’s always nearby.

“Role play with friends to get comfortable with a script in a safe sa environment,” says Black. “Then you can start using your own words so it sounds natural. In the th clinic, we have our students ask what challenge challen or concern the client has with his or her ha hair. Another way to get yo friends and family comfortable is to invite your to the clinic, which adds friendly faces. At Eric Fisher Academy, each sstudent can give five friends or family members a card ffor hefty discounts on the already-low clinic cost.”

Since the clinic is all about sk skill development, focus on quality, not speed. If you mess me up the structure of a cut or a color formula, speed spee of service doesn’t matter, says Hortua, noting that t a 2½-hour bob is nnot unusual for a first cclinic attempt when each step is checked by an instructor.

Plus, if you’re taking Continued >> firstchair.com 43

FirstStages school. If you don’t have a specific number of hours, you can’t work on the clinic floor. ♥ Use a checklist for at-home review—some students get so flustered, they forget to drape clients or remove the cape when done. ♥ Start developing good habits, like asking clients to pre-book and educating them about styling products. ♥ Take it easy on yourself; now is the time to learn from mistakes.

Training Days

“It was tough for me to shampoo clients 95-percent of the time. It hit my ego; I knew I could do more.

But over a year of apprenticing, I learned to look at other stylists’ work and master their secrets. This developed my professional vision.”—Drew Irmen your time, you’ll be able to calm yourself, focus and think of important hair-related questions to ask the client.

Finally, if you are having a problem, never be too shy—or too arrogant—to excuse yourself from your client to get help or call an instructor over. One big difference between the clinic and the salon is no one can fire you—yet. Other tips for transitioning to the clinic: ♥ Continue to practice on mannequins at home. ♥ Don’t work on friends at home if you can get them in the clinic, where you can receive guidance and make the experience pay off for both of you. ♥ Don’t insult people to get them in the clinic. Saying “Your color is mousy” is not going to encourage anyone to let you touch her hair! ♥ Don’t be a slacker on attendance. The old joke is that showing up is half the job, but it’s too true in beauty

44 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

You just finished school, so why should you spend another year training in a salon? Continuing education is part of the business, but the other part of the story, sorry, is salon owners say new grads don’t have enough experience to “hit the ground running.” Owners pay a lot to get good clients, and with one wrong remark, slip of the shears or bad color mix, you can send those clients packing. But there’s another perspective that goes straight to your own heart.

If you only apply at salons that will put you on the floor as soon as possible, you’ve missed a great opportunity with incredible future benefits. This is why most successful stylists advise you to choose a salon with a one- or two-year assistant training program. But more and more, these salons are big city/high end, because of the economic cost of training to the owner and apprentices’ impatience with the long wait and low pay—about $50 a day.

To start the transition right, says Drew Irmen, a stylist at Angelo David Salon in New York City, network at shows and find a mentor who wants to grow you.

“When I was in Ohio, I lived in my parents’ basement and went to every hair show to find the right mentor,” says Irmen.

“You have to sacrifice to go to the next level. Don’t just visit local salons—find out what you want to do, and who is doing it at the highest level. If you miss the whole mentoring thing, you’ll miss a lot that you can’t figure out on your own, like how to interact with high-end salon clients.

“It was tough for me to shampoo clients 95-percent of the At Loxx Salon, Tiffany Nault, Hannah Cook and salon director Tracy Tarbet go over the color manuals.

Get ove over it; retail is cool, says Jessie Mancini of Glamour Salon in i Ottawa, Canada.

HOW I LEARNED TO LOVE RETAIL

clinic

Jessie Mancini of Glamour Salon in Ottawa, Canada, ssays she’d worked in a salon for 13 years and ow owned her own for three before deciding her clients trusted her enough to take her retail recommendations. omme “I wa was very intimidated about recommending products to clients in the beginning of my caprodu reer,” she says. “Over time, when I reached my mass capacity of clients and hours, I realized that o only retail could double my income without a hard effort.”

time. It hit my ego; I knew I could do more. But over a year of apprenticing, I learned to look at other stylists’ work and master their secrets. This developed my professional vision.”

Tale of Two Salons At L Salon & Color Group in San Mateo, California, owner Elizabeth Stenstrom says her assistants’ program is 16 to 24 months, depending on individual progress. It’s highly structured, and allows trainees to choose a cutting or coloring specialty. It’s also designed so the trainee can build a clientele that will be his or hers upon promotion.

Bruce McGaha, co-owner of Moutons and Loxx in Grapevine and Euless, Texas, says his two salons have different business models and training programs, but the economies of salon life don’t allow for the lengthy training programs that dominated past decades.

“The longer you wait to put someone on the floor, the less confidence they have,” he says. “Young people don’t have the patience to shampoo for a year and it doesn’t matter how long the program; the first day they work alone, they’re a bundle of nerves. Working on the floor with actual clients is the real learning curve.”

At Moutons, training is about 16 weeks, while at Loxx, it’s

She also attributes her awakening to “a line like Farouk Royal Treatment, because you see and feel a difference the first time you use it,” proving that if you love a product line, your clients will, too.

“If your clients buy your recommendations, it shows they respect you, and that they want to learn more, too,” adds Mancini. “Right now, women are all about conditioning, and men are more about keeping their hair in style.”

Elizabeth Stenstrom believes in long training programs for her assistants Shirley Chu, Vergineh Tchamourlian, Marisa Saucedo and Krista Sheffield.

Continued >> modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 45

FirstStages about six weeks before assistants are eased onto the floor. At both salons, says McGaha, the biggest surprise new stylists face is that the salon is more “real life” than they expected.

“The perception of a paying client is very different from that of a school-clinic client, who knows what she is paying for and getting,” says McGaha.

What helped his three most recent hires: while still in school, they asked if they could come in and hang out in the salon once in a while. They would drop in after school or on an occasional Saturday to absorb the salon culture, and McGaha says it definitely made them better prepared for what salon life really looked like.

A Place of Your Own

My first day

By Travis Kelley, Shear Terror Hair, New York

Paranoia…sweaty hands…the onset of first-day jitters. Fresh out of cosmetology school, I’d landed a job as a stylist at Head Games Salon in Fort Myers, Florida. Although the salon atmosphere wasn’t new to me (I worked at salons on the business side before I attended beauty school), this was something entirely different.

On my first day, the owner gave me a client right away. I barely had time to think. What if I made a mistake? What if I she didn’t like the outcome?

What if I accidentally cut her with my shears?

The idea of a client bleeding all over the place from a cutting mishap wasn’t exactly making things any easier.

So what did I do? I took a risk and was honest with the client about it being my first day, and she was still willing to let me work on her. Then I just closed my eyes, took a deep breath and remembered to have confidence in the knowledge and experience that got me the job in the first place. By the time I was finished, I had a happy new client, who returned to me from then on. It’s been four years since my first experience with a real salon client, and now I have my own session styling company.

46 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

So what truly eases the transition to a chair of your own? Scripts, again, say most pros, and careful, one-on-one coaching. Because the more you do, the faster you boost your skills; getting your own models in order to build experience is another challenge. “Our salon has a strong reputation, so we get a lot of models for trainees, who are expected to move from doing all major cuts on mannequins to doing one model a week to eventually dooing five models a day for five days ays a week,” says Stenstrom. “This This progression greatly eases the transiansi sition to becoming a designer on the e floor.

The best places for anyone to get models ells are malls, cosmetic counters, high schools ols and nd d colleges.”

Transitioning is greatly eased if you yo ou attend every show you can, and watch professional ssional a videos, of which you can find hundreds online nline including incclu luding at modernsalon.tv.

Still, nothing really substitutes for having clients cliients of of your own and proving you can retain them. Butt even n with scripts, coaching, mentoring andd training, training n , full ng confidence only kicks in after nine months nthss to to a year on the floor.

“Through decades of doing performance mance reviews and tracking numbers like client retention, ntion, we know that’s how long it takes for stylists to really eally get it,” sayss McGaha.

Perhaps, the biggest assets of all are patience and flexibility.

If you’re willing to put in the time and learn someone else’s way of doing things, you’re that much more likely to succeed. After all, Darwin never said the strongest or even the most intelligent survive. To paraphrase, he said the ones most adaptable to change are the ones who make it in the long run.

From Salon to school and back By day, Jessica Sachchabutra is a stylist at Natural Look Aveda Salon & Spa in Woodhaven, New York; by night, she’s an instructor at Carsten Aveda Institute in New York City.

Licensed in 2003, she says a two-year salon assistant program went a long way to building her confidence. But then, the teaching bug bit her. She sat in on a friend’s class first, and then decided to go for her teaching license.

“The students love hearing my salon stories,” she says. “In the school, we go over the new seasonal looks early, which keeps me up-to-date in the salon.”

What from her salon experience does she stress most with new crops of professionals? “I tell them make your mistakes now and to get into a salon with a good training program because it builds confidence. Also, dress up; no ripped jeans. To succeed, you have to look the part!”

Clinic confessions Coups and SNAfus

By Katie Sawyer, Eric Fisher Academy, student

My biggest mistake in the student salon involved my first color clients. I was really worried about bleeding and leaving “tracks” in the hair, so I must have over-compensated for the expansion of the lightener. An hour later I’m washing it out and my instructor looks at it with a confused look on her face and says “Oh.” Long pause… “Hmm.” I had placed the lightener so far away from the scalp that it looked like the client had weeks’ worth of new growth! My instructor helped me re-weave the hair, and my client got to spend an extra hour of quality time with me that day.

On the other hand, a client with extremely long hair was booked for a hair cut. I was kind of intimidated—her hair was past her waistline.

When I saw the picture of the style she wanted I was really freaked. She wanted a chin-length bob. Talk about pressure!

I tried to go through all off the steps of a good con-sultation and hair cut, and by the time we were done, she loved her new cut. She told me I gave her the best experience and salon service she ever had.

Eric Fisher Academy student Katie Sawyer gets help from instructor Patti Black.

“I tell them make your mistakes now and to get into a salon with a good training program because it builds confidence. Also, dress up; no ripped jeans. To succeed, you have to look the part!”— Jessica Sachchabutra

n lo a s

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 47

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FirstCareers

By Lauren Salapatek

irst Chair profiles three new talent success stories as part of our ongoing “A Day in the Life...� series.

Their customer-service skills, professionalism and passion for the industry helped them successfully make the clinic-to-salon transition in three years or less.

Read how Kelsey, Casey and Taylor make the most out of their careers. >>

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 49

FirstCareers

hen a client sits in stylist Kelsey Morrison’s chair at PureTalent Salons at Aveda Academy Denver, and isn’t sure of the style she’d like to try, Morrison refers to her scrapbook of magazine clippings and celebrity hair styles.

“This look book has set me apart from other stylists at my salon. I spent time putting it together, and made it personal by including my biography, photos of work I’ve created, hair and makeup I like,” she says. “It’s nice, because when I’m focused on cutting, the book is a good way for my client to get to know more about me.”

It’s the little ways of showing a client that she cares about her job, and personalizing each and every experience, that helped Morrison hit the ground running upon graduation. “In the beginning when I was in the PureTalent training program at my salon [one of the initial stages for new stylists], I created my own business cards and personalized them with drawings or deals I was offering. Drawing on each card took a lot of personal time, but it paid off, and people really appreciated it,” she says. Clients liked her drawings so much, they held onto the cards and remembered her. “Today our salon prints out business cards, and for each client who sits in my chair, I hand them three to four cards so they can refer me to their friends and family.”

Morrison adds on to every service by giving each client a complimentary scalp massage. She writes down all of the products she uses on a “prescription pad,” (a customized list of the products she uses on each client). This way clients will know exactly what products she used to create his or her look. For her clients who frequently visit, she adds them to her Facebook page.

“I use Facebook to notify clients of services I am offering. It makes them feel good and, most of all, special.

Sometimes it’s hard to keep up with everyone, but it pays off in the long run.”

Morrison says a tip for new stylists looking to get ahead is to always stay in control of your service.

“It’s not only important to have strong technical skills, it’ss crucial to have good communication skills as well,” she says.

“Customers will stay with you when you can communicate

50 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

well.” You need to listen to client requests and mirror back how you will deliver that service. “Some clients still intimidate me, but with experience I get better. I tell them when they sit in my chair, ‘let’s see what we can do.’ We take things slow and go from there.”

Besides staying on top of marketing herself in creative ways and personalizing every service, Morrison participates in in-salon classes as well as continuing/advanced education. This year, Morrison’s educational inspirations were at the Aveda Congress in Minneapolis, Minnesota, where she witnessed one of her mentors, and Aveda editorial stylist, Peter Gray in action.

“Since I had the highest retail sales for two months at my salon, I got a free class with Peter Gray. We learned how to make headpieces, do photoshoots and we even got an up-close look at the creations he presented on stage.”

After the Congress, Morrison was so inspired she got involved in a photoshoot at her salon. “I worked with a model, styled her hair, did her make-up, and coordinated with a photographer. The energy was my favorite part— I loved the directing process.” Now, Morrison has completed three separate photoshoots on a volunteer basis.

“I continue to participate in photoshoots because I learn something different from each one. It’s also a great way to build my portfolio.”

In five years, Morrison would like to work as an editorial stylist, or even be a stylist to the stars. “I also want to educate—I feel like I am finally making something of myself,” she says. “Remember, hard work always leads to good things!”

Morrison’s lookbook allows clients to read her bio and see what inspires her.

firstchair.com 51

FirstCareers

oss a blow dry cream, mini hair spray, shampoo or conditioner along with coupons and a business card in a gift bag, and you get stylist Casey Dunn’s marketing promo bags that she gives to businesses with potential customers.

“As often as I can, I give a selection of gift bags to each store near the salon,” she says. “I tell them to hand out the bags to their employees, leave them on tables or to keep the bags for themselves.”

Dunn says she seeks out medical and dental offices in particular— she believes that giving the bags to businesses that attract health-conscious consumers, will help generate her target market of clients. “So far, I have had a wonderful response. Since my salon already hands out free samples, I thought why not take it a step further and personalize the process?”

However, Dunn’s 80 clients per month and highretention rates didn’t come easy. She credits a lot of her success to finding the right salon after graduating from Concord School of Hair Design in New Jersey.

“My first job was at a mall where I was expected to go straight onto the salon floor, and work with guests without any additional training,” she says. “I felt like things were going much too fast and that I wasn’t prepared—so I left, tried out another salon, left there too, and then finally found the salon I work at currently.”

At Evolution, The Salon in Shrewsbury, New Jersey, Dunn has surrounded herself with mentors, and a successful marketing program. “My salon will send e-mails to all of the clients in our system. A message might say, ‘If you book an appointment with Casey, then you will get a free conditioning treatment!’ This marketing provided by my salon helps me further my career.” Dunn also realizes that by creating individual deals for her clients brings customers into her chair.

“I give my clients $25 gift cards to give to friends and

52 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

family. I also post on my personal and nd salon’s Facebook pages about deals ls being offered.”

Another tactic Dunn believess sets her apart is being honest. “I’m m not afraid to tell my clients exactlyy what they need. I do what they wantt me to do, and I do what I feel looks good for them. Sometimes if the look they want is really out there I may say, ‘I don’t think that’s the best look for you but we can try this hair cut in a different way.’ If a client is stuck on a decision we may go through oough look books or I’ll pull magazines for inspiration.

I’ll offer product recommendations and show them how to properly use the product—they will usually purchase it.”

Through vigorous self-promotion and honest communication, Dunn has gone far in the short time she’s been in the beauty industry. In the past six months she has jumped from Level 1 to Level 2 (based on the Summit Salon System her salon uses) and is now on her way to being a Level 3 stylist. “I have moved up Levels so quickly because I beat all of the numbers I set for myself and I doubled my goals. More clients come to see me now, too.” Dunn says to always see yourself achieving success—and to work hard until you achieve it.

“First find a salon you love. When I come to work I don’t even feel like I’m going to work—that’s how much I love coming here,” she says. “I do get discouraged sometimes if my day isn’t as booked as I’d like it to be, but I realize success comes in waves.”

In five years, Dunn sees herself working at her current salon, progressing Levels and retaining more clients. “I would love to be an educator one day. I want to continue learning and growing, and educate others on how to be successful in their careers,” she says.

Ca sey D un n cre at es gif t ba pl es an d bbu sin gs of prod uc i ne ss th at at tra ess ca rd s to di str ib ut e att sa mct be auty-co ns bu cio us cli ents. si-

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FirstCareers

uring her first year of college, whenever Taylor Sill visited Salon Visage in Knoxville, Tennessee, she loved the energy. From the exceptional customer service to the hustle and bustle of the salon atmosphere to the cutting and styling— everything lured her in.

Sill thought from that moment on, “Wow, I would really love to work here.”

However, Sill was already in her first yearr of college, and on her way to being a nurse.

If her parents found out she were considering dropping out, she knew they would disapprove.

“Everything changed after one of my English classes.

I remember I had to write a paper on my dream career, and decided it would be fun to go to Salon Visage andd interview the stylists.” After conducting the interviewss and writing the paper, she told her parents she wanted to go to beauty school. “My parents were worried, and told old me I would have to finance my new education if I were to drop out.”

Even with these obstacles, Sill was determined ned to follow her dream. Soon after, she interviewedd at the salon for a spot in their call center, just to get et a taste of the career she eagerly awaited. “I finishedd my first year of school, started working at Visage, went through extensive training and as soon as I got my license, I finally became an assistant at the salon! n!

It was everything I had hoped for.”

Sill credits her success to her mentors at the salon—Education Director Teresa Hoxworth, h, and Cutting Department Head Chris Branson. By watching how they executed cuts, listening to client dialogue, and seeing how they marketed ted themselves.

“I see about seven to eight clients per day, and 60-70 every two weeks,” she says. “Although I have personally worked very hard to retain my clients, ents,

54 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

getting them in my chair has never been a challenge. My salon is very reputable in our area and clients know if they come to this salon, they will get exceptional service.” Sill recommends newer stylists should strategically choose salons to apply at, versus just trying to land any job. If you end up at a big-name salon, it can be easier to build a clientele.

Sill’s professionalism in her career, includes how she dresses for success. “I make sure before I leave my house everyday that I look my best. I can’t tell you how many times I have been out somewhere and someone asks me, ‘Where did you get your hair done? I love it!’ This is a great conversation starter and, from there, I refer my services.”

Sill says she pushes herself to be a social butterfly in all situations. Whenever she finds herself in a conversation with a potential client she hands out business cards—one for the client to keep for themselves and one to pass on. “If they pass out the cards for me, they will get a free service at the spa for every client they refer.”

Once a client is in her chair, she says the next

challenge is to retain them. “I make sure clients pre-book every time before they leave,” she says.

Another strategy she recommends is remembering the details about each and every client who sits in your chair. “Write notes that will help you recall what’s going on in their lives so you can comment about it next time. And, always mention what products you are using on them, how long they should wait until their next appointment, or any tips to maintain their look between appointments. Clients like that.”

Whenever Sill is having a slow day, she will post a status on Facebook, but she ultimately thinks that by perfecting your communication and technical skills you will give a client exactly what they want. “It’s impossible to have one without the other. You have to have both to be a good stylist.” To improve her technical skills, Sill attends several classes so she can stay up to date with all of the new trends. “Recently our salon traveled to Santa Monica to attend a training class at the Sassoon Academy. I actually got to meet Vidal!

And, we attended an inspiring fashion show. After education events, I always try what I learned on my clients. If you don’t use it, you will lose it!”

In the past year, Sill has moved from a Level 1 to a Level 3 stylist. In five years, she hopes to reach Level 6, which is the top level at her salon (commission is at its highest, you get an assistant, and you always have a full book). “It’s going to be difficult, but I am shooting for the moon.

I eventually want to be an Education Director. I think it’s important that when you find success you should help everyone starting out and guide them in a way,” she says.

“Sometimes I compare myself to a race horse— I felt held back because I couldn’t take on everything at first, but without the slow start and fundamentals I wouldn’t have been able to progress as fast as I have.”

modernsalon.com spring 2012 firstchair.com 55

SignatureStyle

Congratulations on entering the beauty industry, full of creativity, passion and opportunity. We’re all ro rooting ooting for your su success—including Beth Minardi, who offers words of wisdom from decades of experience nce as a colorist, t, educator, salon owner and icon.

Dear future graduate, Congratulations! You are beginning an amazing journey as you take your first steps away from cosmetology school and into the wonderful world of professional beauty.

Remember: On the day you receive your license, you are obtaining a license to continue learning. Our profession is one that changes almost daily—and that’s only a part of what keeps it so exciting. New products, techniques, applications and ideas are always out there, just waiting to be discovered. It’s up to you to keep yourself current, and to be able to offer your clients the most effective and beneficial services.

How fortunate we are to have the opportunity to literally change a person’s life! That’s how powerful you are. Image matters. When we enhance a client’s appearance we make magic. You will get amazing responses when your clients look in the mirror and discover what you have been able to do for them. Your work can brighten their day, and give them the hope they need to manage their hectic, complicated lives. That is the power you have—and that power comes with responsibility.

I hope you take this profession seriously and that you have a burning desire to succeed as one of the best in our industry. Too many people “give up” after a year or so.

After graduation, new professionals should expect to assist at a great salon for up to tthree years. I recommend you become a sponge and take in all the great information and eexperience you can. If you do this, I promise you will amaze yourself as you emerge as a true master of our profession.

I wish you all the success you deserve. I hope you will enjoy this amazing journey and that I’ll have the honor of meeting you in cla class one day. Your school has given you the tools to create your own wonderful May your search rffull destiny. des for your place in our beautiful world be filled wi with wonder, th h w onndeer joy and satisfaction.

All the best, Beth Minardi

56 firstchair.com spring 2012 modernsalon.com

Empire Celebrates the Holidays!

Morrow Campus Celebrates Chr istmas in the Park!

Stud

ents and staff at Empire Beauty School in Morrow, Georgia volunteered their time and talents at the city of Morrow’s Christmas in the Park Celebration. Emp ire students used their makeup skills to offer face painting to children.

More than 150 young faces walked out with some holiday bling !

More than 25 studen ts from Empire Bea uty School in Morrow Georgia volunteered , their time for Christm as in the Park.

d Steps it Up Empire Beauty School, Concor for the Holidays! h Carolina campus

, Nort Empire Beauty School’s Concord the annual Concord Christmas for s shoe ing walk r thei up d lace to the streets representing Parade. Nearly 20 students took with spreading lots of good g Empire during the parade. Alon than 1,500 candy canes more out ed hand ents stud cheer, the s! and 500 free haircut card

nts Concord stude spread holiday cheer with ation their particip in the Concord e.

Christmas Parad

Framingham Students Provide Thanksgiving for Needy Families Students at

Empire Beauty School in Fram ingham, Massachusetts made Thanksgi ving a bit brighter for families in need. A food drive was held at the school along with a collection of cash donations to provide residents at the school’s adopted shelter a Thanksgiving meal. In addition to the food drive, students also collected money to buy gifts for children at the shelter.

Framingham students wor ked hard to collect eno ugh food to provide a Thanksgivi ng meal to shelter resi dents.

days with Flagstaff Students Celebrate the Holi the Parade of Lights! ol in Flagstaff, Students and staff at Empire Beauty Scho Parade of Lights. al annu 13th city’s the Arizona took part in “The Grinch.” the by The students decorated a float inspired of business reds hund out d passe nts stude e During the parad ! crowd ing cards and candy canes to the cheer

Students and staff take part in the 13th annual Flagstaff ChamberHoliday Parade of Lights.

special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu e-5

!

E R I P M E T A FALL FUN good ight is a screaming fr s it l al d an n ee w Hallo

time at Empire!

Students in Littleton, Colorado Celebrate Fall with Makeup! tudents at Empire Beauty School’s Littleton, Colorado campus celebrated their Fall Festival with a 3 hour contest demonstrating their artistic and creative abilities in the areas of hair, makeup, and nails.

S

Littleton student displays a cat-like appearance!

Boston Celebrates Halloween with Haunted Couture! alloween never looked so good as it did in Boston during EmpireBeauty School’s Haunted Couture Fashion Show!

Students and staff celebrate the holiday with a week-long series of special classes in special effects makeup, wigs, and mask-making. The students put their new skills to use with an all out fashion show in the student salon!

H

A student model shows off her peacock inspired makeup!

e-6 special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu

Students showcased many creative and artistic styles of makeup.

Special effects makeup modeled by a Littleton student.

 Creative hair color technique with a cat inspired theme.  This cheetah inspired look was highlighted at the fashion show!

Movies, Magazines and Fall Fashion!

W

hat do you get when you mix a Hollywood blockbuster and a few great fashion shows with Empire students? A successful and memorable event! Our students have been all over the place lately showing off their great skills and talents!

From movie premieres to red carpet events, our students are in demand!

Students at Empire Beauty School in State College, Pennsylvania assist stylists before the ‘Marie Claire Front Row Challenge’. The leading fashion magazine is travelling to college campuses across the country showing off the latest trends and styles by design students.

Students and staff from Empire Beauty School in Boston, Massachusetts pose for a picture at the premiere party for Twilight: Breaking Dawn. The students offered free beauty services to hundreds of women invited to a special screening of the blockbuster film.

Empire Beauty School in Moosic, Pennsylvania used Broadway as inspiration for their Fall and Winter Trends Open House. Students showed the public their take on what’s hot this season with NYC inspired glamour! special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu e-7

N O I H S A F K C RO S T N E D U T S EMPIRE AND PHOTO SHOOTS! SHOWS dents are done, Empire stu d makeup to be rrow, an ir Mo ha in is ol ho ere Sc th hen at Empire Beauty ts Moren of ud y St !

Cit e dy always rea and talents to th County ered their time te on yt lun Cla vo to gia nt or Ge The proceeds we or Fashion Show. tance with rent row’s Fashionatta s emergency assis ide ov pr at -income th low r ram fo og pr ine a dic re, me Family Ca escription ctric, food and pr makeup for over mortgage, gas, ele did the hair and s nt de stu e pir ven Em households. Ele eir e event! e students put th 35 models at th h, Florida, Empir ac al Be loc lm a Pa of st r the cove Meanwhile, in We ling models for Seven l skills to use sty Beach Society.” alm “P of r budding editoria ve co e th up r ke fo s ma d wa t an ir oo sh oot, doing ha magazine! The ged the entire sh ckground na ba e ma s th nt in de en stu se West Palm dents can be ls. The Empire stu in beauty! for all the mode ion at uc ed an oting of the cover, prom

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Cover of “Palm Beach Society” styled

by Empire Beauty School students.

of the Behind the scenes y” cover shoot.

“Palm Beach Societ

Morrow students gather for a group picture during Fashionatta Fashion Show.

e-8 special EMPIRE edition: spring 2012 empire.edu

Morrow student highlights makeup skills on model for the City of Morrow’s Fashionatta Fashion Show.

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