B&b 29 teaser

Page 1

issue 29 WINTER 2014 price $9.95 (NZ $11.95)

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42 Australian residents only (excl. NT)

au s t r a l i a & n e w z e a l a n d

Beers & ciders TAST ED

Snow time! SHANE WARNE Good Beer Week: the highlights

Discover the best beers and bars in the mountains this winter

CIDER SUCCESS The rise of Tasmania

BREWERY FOOD

The Rocks Brewing Co. shares its recipes

ISSN 1834-5115

0 2

BEST OF DUBLIN & BRUSSELS Where and what to drink

PLUS! RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT BB2914_p001_cover v11.indd 1

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ISSUE TE 29 WIN R 2014

CONTENTS

VALUE! BEER. $195 GINGER RASPBERRY ED

2014 WINTER ISSUE 29 5 (NZ $11.95) PRICE $9.9

BEERSRS & CIDE TASTED

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The Tasmania

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8 GOOD BEER WEEK 10 2014 AIBA RESULTS 12 GABS 14 CBIA CONFERENCE 30 RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT 54 WEEKEND IN MELBOURNE 62 BREWERY TOUR 64 WHISKY 66 BEER & FOOD MATCHING 70 TOP 10 74 TASTING NOTES

As the winter months roll ‘round, our nation’s collective thoughts drift from long, lazy days at the beach and afternoon BBQs to the more physical pursuits that you’ll ďŹ nd at Australia and New Zealand’s ski ďŹ elds. Here’s a rundown on the best slopes and where to go for a beer when you’re done. By Gregor Stronach.

42

www.beerandbrewer.com

38 CIDER

The Cider Isle

www.beerandbrewer.com

THE

CIDER ISLE

43

CIDER

WITH THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEING STRONGER TOGETHER THAN APART, THE TASSIE CIDER TRAIL WAS FORMED.� “Tassie is a small place and producers often meet up at the many events and festivals that happen here and have a chat over a cider or two. Someone suggested getting together and forming a state body to complement the work of Cider Australia and so after that we began working with the government on developing the cider industry further,� said Reid.

With cider continuing to enjoy stratospheric growth, Annette Shailer took a look at some of the innovative ways the Apple Isle is tapping into the core of this growth.

C

ider is still the fastest growing alcoholic beverage category although in the past year we have seen that growth begin to slow. While the category still grew at an impressive 20 per cent, this was down from previous years. Cider Australia president and Willie Smith’s co-owner, Sam Reid, said while the cider bubble may have slowed it certainly hasn’t burst and there could still be room to grow yet. “I think the cider market is beginning to mature – it has basically doubled in the past ÂżYH \HDUV WR UHDFK DOPRVW SHU FHQW RI WRWDO alcohol consumed and so the same percentage growth will be harder to achieve each year from a larger base,â€? Reid said. “That said I do see there being a lot more room for growth like we are seeing in the very developed UK and French markets. The UK

38

market for instance is 13 per cent of total alcohol consumed and so we have a long way to go until we reach that stage in Australia.â€? With Tasmania often referred to as the ‘Apple Isle’ due to its history as one of the world’s major apple producers, it’s not surprising it is home to some of Australia’s best ciders. Tasmanian cider producers are lucky enough to have access to premium produce IURP WKLUG IRXUWK DQG HYHQ ÂżIWK JHQHUDWLRQ orchardists, as well as some of the purest ZDWHU LQ WKH ZRUOG DW WKHLU ÂżQJHUWLSV +RZHYHU despite these spoils they are not sitting on their laurels. Instead a bunch of cider producers have banded together and, with assistance from the Tasmanian State Government, have formed the Tassie Cider Trail. Tasmania’s relatively small size made the creation of a cider trail for tourists and cider lovers a simple decision. With the philosophy

launched three months ago that features a map of the trail, information about the cideries, cider news, cocktails, recipes and even a cider school, which can bring you up to speed on all things cider before you head to Tassie for a cider journey. “To be part of something that strengthens the region and increases our reputation as a

38 CIDER

42 WINTER BREW-SKI

Willie Smiths recently opened The Apple Shed, which is a stunning cellar door and apple museum.

“Since Tassie has such a diverse range of cider producers with many different styles it made sense to develop and promote a touring route incorporating the cellar doors from around the state.� To complement the physical cider trail, a stunning new Tassie Cider Trail website

We talk to Australian hops growers and distributors to discover which crops are making their mark in 2014.

We look at the rise of Tasmanian ciders, labelling laws and cider stats.

The Cider Isle

of being stronger together than apart, the Tassie Cider Trail was formed. To date there are 10 cider producers involved; Red Sails, Frank’s Cider, Dicken’s Cider, Willie Smiths, Spreyton Cider Co, Small Players, Inn Cider, Pagan, Lost Pippin and Two Metre Tall.

HOPS 34 HARVEST REPORT

quality cider making area, while also tying in with other cider producers can only be a positive thing,� said Damien Viney from Spreyton Cider. “The Tassie Cider Trail allows consumers and tourists to experience all of Tasmania’s cider producers and perhaps introduces them to the wider range of ciders being made here.� While it is still early days for the Tassie Cider Trail, the concept of being stronger together than apart is an important one, particularly as the industry continues to grow and diversify. “I think by individual producers gaining recognition and awards, it strengthens the overall reputation of the group as a cidermaking region,� said Viney. “You only need to look at what some international recognition for one or two whisky distilleries in Tasmania has done for the reputation of Tasmania as a whisky producing destination.

Discover the best beers and bars in the mountains this winter here and overseas.

LINKS Tassie Cider Trail www.tascidertrail.com Cider Australia www.cideraustralia.org.au Dickens Cider www.dickenscider.com.au Frank’s Cider www.frankscider.com.au Inn Cider - www.inncider.com.au Lost Pippin - www.lostpippin.com.au Pagan Cider www.pagancider.com.au Red Sails - www.redsails.com.au Small Players www.holmoakvineyards.com.au Spreyton Cider Co www.spreytonciderco.com.au Two Metre Tall - www.2mt.com.au

Some of the Willie Smiths ciders. Photography by Ali Nasseri.

Some of the delicious apples ready to become cider at Spreyton Cider Co.

www.beerandbrewer.com

Willie Smiths www.williesmiths.com.au

www.beerandbrewer.com

39

BEER TALK TRAVELLER GOURMET

THE FRIDGE

Good Beer Week, AIBA, GABS, CBIA Conference and more.

We select our favourite beers for the chilly months.

AND 8NEWS AWARDS

18 B&B UPDATE

All the happenings in the world of beer.

24

AZTEC BEER & CIDER STATS

26PROFILE

BEST OF 50 DUBLIN & BRUSSELS

Where and what to drink in the famous pubs of Ireland and Belgium.

54

WEEKEND AWAY

All loved up at the Hunter Valley’s Lovedale Brewery.

A look at the rich history of Russian Imperial Stout and what the style looks like in 2014.

BREWERY DIRECTORY VENUE REVIEWS BREWERY TOUR

Meet the team behind Sydney’s Riverside Brewing Co.

How hop harvest 2014 faired against the turbulent weather.

Sydney’s Rocks Brewing shares the recipes for three of their best sellers, including their famous pulled pork burger.

A craft beer lover’s guide to the best beer bars in Melbourne.

58 30STYLE NOTES 60 62 HARVEST 34HOPS REPORT 63 EVENTS MICROBREWERY

BEER 66 & FOOD MATCHING

GOURMET

RECIPES

THAT

ROCK

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66

Beer & Brewer’s new Editor Annette Shailer selects eight beers that take her fancy from the fridge.

New Australian and international beers and ciders.

After hearing rumours that Rocks Brewing Co has the best pulled pork burger in town , Beer & Brew er not only went to check it out‌ we got the recip e!

66

72

STAFF PICK

73 NEW RELEASES

Recipes

BB2914_p066 -069 v3.indd

10 FOR 70 TOP WINTER

72 TASTING NOTES

Want a handle on how things taste? Our expert panel spills the beans on a bunch of new beers and ciders.

Dates to watch.

www.beerandbrewer.com

3


CIDER The Cider Isle

THE

CIDER ISLE

With cider continuing to enjoy stratospheric growth, Annette Shailer took a look at some of the innovative ways the Apple Isle is tapping into the core of this growth.

C

ider is still the fastest growing alcoholic beverage category although in the past year we have seen that growth begin to slow. While the category still grew at an impressive 20 per cent, this was down from previous years. Cider Australia president and Willie Smith’s co-owner, Sam Reid, said while the cider bubble may have slowed it certainly hasn’t burst and there could still be room to grow yet. “I think the cider market is beginning to mature – it has basically doubled in the past ÂżYH \HDUV WR UHDFK DOPRVW SHU FHQW RI WRWDO alcohol consumed and so the same percentage growth will be harder to achieve each year from a larger base,â€? Reid said. “That said I do see there being a lot more room for growth like we are seeing in the very developed UK and French markets. The UK

38

www.beerandbrewer.com

market for instance is 13 per cent of total alcohol consumed and so we have a long way to go until we reach that stage in Australia.â€? With Tasmania often referred to as the ‘Apple Isle’ due to its history as one of the world’s major apple producers, it’s not surprising it is home to some of Australia’s best ciders. Tasmanian cider producers are lucky enough to have access to premium produce IURP WKLUG IRXUWK DQG HYHQ ÂżIWK JHQHUDWLRQ orchardists, as well as some of the purest ZDWHU LQ WKH ZRUOG DW WKHLU ÂżQJHUWLSV +RZHYHU despite these spoils they are not sitting on their laurels. Instead a bunch of cider producers have banded together and, with assistance from the Tasmanian State Government, have formed the Tassie Cider Trail. Tasmania’s relatively small size made the creation of a cider trail for tourists and cider lovers a simple decision. With the philosophy

Some of the delicious apples ready to become cider at Spreyton Cider Co.


CIDER The Cider Isle

Willie Smiths recently opened The Apple Shed, which is a stunning cellar door and apple museum.

of being stronger together than apart, the Tassie Cider Trail was formed. To date there are 10 cider producers involved; Red Sails, Frank’s Cider, Dicken’s Cider, Willie Smiths, Spreyton Cider Co, Small Players, Inn Cider, Pagan, Lost Pippin and Two Metre Tall.

“Since Tassie has such a diverse range of cider producers with many different styles it made sense to develop and promote a touring route incorporating the cellar doors from around the state.” To complement the physical cider trail, a stunning new Tassie Cider Trail website

WITH THE PHILOSOPHY OF BEING STRONGER TOGETHER THAN APART, THE TASSIE CIDER TRAIL WAS FORMED.” “Tassie is a small place and producers often meet up at the many events and festivals that happen here and have a chat over a cider or two. Someone suggested getting together and forming a state body to complement the work of Cider Australia and so after that we began working with the government on developing the cider industry further,” said Reid.

launched three months ago that features a map of the trail, information about the cideries, cider news, cocktails, recipes and even a cider school, which can bring you up to speed on all things cider before you head to Tassie for a cider journey. “To be part of something that strengthens the region and increases our reputation as a

quality cider making area, while also tying in with other cider producers can only be a positive thing,” said Damien Viney from Spreyton Cider. “The Tassie Cider Trail allows consumers and tourists to experience all of Tasmania’s cider producers and perhaps introduces them to the wider range of ciders being made here.” While it is still early days for the Tassie Cider Trail, the concept of being stronger together than apart is an important one, particularly as the industry continues to grow and diversify. “I think by individual producers gaining recognition and awards, it strengthens the overall reputation of the group as a cidermaking region,” said Viney. “You only need to look at what some international recognition for one or two whisky distilleries in Tasmania has done for the reputation of Tasmania as a whisky producing destination.

LINKS Tassie Cider Trail www.tascidertrail.com Cider Australia www.cideraustralia.org.au Dickens Cider www.dickenscider.com.au Frank’s Cider www.frankscider.com.au Inn Cider - www.inncider.com.au Lost Pippin - www.lostpippin.com.au Pagan Cider www.pagancider.com.au Red Sails - www.redsails.com.au Small Players www.holmoakvineyards.com.au Spreyton Cider Co www.spreytonciderco.com.au Two Metre Tall - www.2mt.com.au

Some of the Willie Smiths ciders. Photography by Ali Nasseri.

Willie Smiths www.williesmiths.com.au

www.beerandbrewer.com

39


COVER XXXXX

The view from the ‘roof’ of Australia, deep in the Snowy Mountains.

Winter xxxxxxxxx Brew-Ski

PERISHER (NSW)

Perisher is reported to be the largest ski resort in the Southern Hemisphere, occupying roughly 12 square kilometres of snowy, mountainous terrain. It’s made up of four

Image courtesy of Visions of Victoria.

F

or some it’s a very expensive means of getting cold, wet and exhausted – but for many more, skiing and snowboarding equates to a way of life. Every winter, hordes of Aussies and Kiwis head to the southern halves of their respective countries, with their H\HV Âż[HG ÂżUPO\ RQ WKH VWDUN ZKLWH PRXQWDLQ tops of the alpine regions. The goal: to hurtle down a snow-covered mountain at breakneck speeds – preferably without actually breaking your neck, of course. But ask anyone who skis, and they’ll tell you that there’s more to it than cheating an icy death. For many, it’s the ‘aprèsski’ that holds a certain fascination – and when it comes to providing venues brimming with beer, the $XVWUDOLDQ DQG 1HZ =HDODQG VNL ÂżHOGV DUH among the world’s best. If you’re on the hunt for a decent beer this season, here’s the skinny on where you need to go.

roots and traditional music. This year’s festival saw more than 140 shows across 10 venues around the valley.

THREDBO (NSW)

Smaller than neighbouring Perisher, the Thredbo valley is a far more centralised affair,

IT’S A TOP SPOT FOR A RELAXING BEER AFTER A DAY ON THE SLOPES.â€? formerly independent villages, Perisher Valley, Smiggin Holes, Guthega and the oddly-named Blue Cow – which means that a lot of the facilities are scattered throughout the valley, UDWKHU WKDQ ZLWKLQ WKH FRQÂżQHV RI DQ HVWDEOLVKHG village. Perisher’s footprint includes seven mountain peaks, serviced by 47 lifts that are capable of carrying a staggering 51,305 skiers up the mountains every hour. The area is home to a number of popular bars and nightspots, which cater for the large QXPEHUV RI WRXULVWV ZKR Ă€RFN WR WKH DUHD ZKHQ the snow decides to fall. Among the best of those bars is the Pub Bar at The Man From Snowy River Hotel, (known locally as “The Manâ€?), which is smack-dab in the centre of Perisher, on the main road. It’s a top spot for a relaxing beer after a day RQ WKH VORSHV Âą DQG ZLWK WKH PDVVLYH ÂżUHSODFH roaring, and a goodly number of beers on tap to choose from, it’s a proper pub atmosphere that boasts awesome view of the mountains as well. )XUWKHU XS WKH URDG \RXÂśOO ÂżQG WKH YHU\ posh-sounding Perisher Manor Hotel, which is home to the Base 1720 Bar and Restaurant, which is more of a cocktails and quiet chats venue than the nearby The Pub Family Food Court – which is billed as the largest public bar and food court in the valley. Doors are open from 10am until late. Perisher plays host each year to the Peak Festival, a wintery music festival that draws big crowds to the resort for three days of blues,

44

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with the bulk of the accommodation and associated nightlife clustered at the base of Mt Crackenback, in a village that wouldn’t look out of place in the Swiss Alps. The skiing at Thredbo is among the best in Australia, with a good mix of runs, the majority

of which are designated Intermediate. The resort operates a total of 13 lifts, three of which are needed to access the start of Australia’s longest ski run. Called the Supertrail, it’s 3.7km long In keeping with the Euro feel, the Black Bear Inn is a German / Austrian-styled restaurant DQG EDU ZKLFK VHUYHV XS WKH VNL ¿HOGV VWDSOH schnapps. Punters here have more than 80 different styles of schnapps to choose from, as well as a modest choice of beers to sample as well. On a more upbeat note, the Apres Bar in the Denman Hotel is well known as one of Thredbo’s best nightspots. Just down the road is Bernti’s Tapas Terrace Bar, which churns out gourmet tapas, which you can wash down ZLWK D &RRSHUV ¿QH ZLQH RU WKH HYHU SUHVHQW schnapps. 2014 will see the return of the Rekorderlig Hot Pools, offering punters the chance to sip

A welcoming spot for a beer or two in the beer garden at the Bright Brewery.


COVER Winter Brew-Ski

on warmed Winter Cider and take a dip in the heated pools, designed to offer an Australian take on the Scandinavian hot spring experience. Just down the road at nearby Jindabyne, \RXÂśOO ÂżQG WKH Banjo Paterson Inn, which was the original home of Chuck Hahn’s mountainbased microbrewery, the Kosciuszko Brewing Co, which Chuck set up in 2009. The ‘local’

brew is now also being made at the Malt Shovel Brewery in Camperdown, Sydney – but the Banjo’s regulars are still big fans of Chuck’s brew. )XUWKHU D¿HOG QHDU WKH PRUH UHPRWH WRZQ RI 'DOJHWW\ \RXœOO ¿QG WKH 6QRZ\ 9LQH\DUG Estate, home to the Dalgety Brewing Co and WKHLU UDQJH RI ¿YH JUHDW EHHUV ¹ DOO PDGH DQG packaged on the premises, using water from the mighty Snowy River. Last, but not least, if you’re approaching Thredbo (or Perisher, for that matter) from the Hume Highway near Gundagai, you’ll be taking the Snowy Mountains Highway, which passes through Tumut – and right up to the door of one of the newest microbreweries in the country – the Tumut River Brewing Co. Kicked off by a couple of mates, at the time of writing, the ink was still drying on the regulatory paperwork to get the doors open and the beers pouring. But Simon and Tim assure us that the beers will be ready very soon – and if you’re driving past and the doors are open, stop in to say hi and grab a few brews to take with you.

FALLS CREEK (VIC)

One of the most popular destinations in Australia for skiers, Falls Creek is located in the mountains near the gold rush town of Bright. Easily accessible from both Albury Wodonga and Melbourne, Falls Creek offers

THE BREWERY TURNS OUT SIX CORE BEERS, AND A RANGE OF SEASONALS.� Kosciuszko Brewery, established by Dr Chuck Hahn in 2009.

up 450 hectares of skiable terrain, with 14 lifts carrying skiers to the top of 94 different runs. Not to be confused with The Man at Perisher, Falls Creek also boasts The Man Hotel, well known amongst the regulars as a great place to hang out once the sun’s gone down and the slopes are too dark for skiing. The Man offers up a couple of decent bars, including the recently refurbished Lounge Bar, home to a panoply of cocktails and schnapps (of course‌) and a range of beers on tap and in the fridge. If you’re hungry, word on the street is that The Man offers the best pizza on the mountain. If you’re pining for the Ă€DYRXUV RI WKH Âľ2OG &RXQWU\Âś you can chance your arm at the Cock’n’Bull ‘Olde English Pub’, which stocks a range of Aussie beers, including Coopers, Hahn Super Dry and James Boag in the fridge, and Carlton Draught, Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. The food menu reads like something out of a typical English pub, with Bangers’n’mash, gamekeeper’s pies and roast beef with Yorkies all up for grabs. Down the road a spell, EDFN LQ %ULJKW \RXÂśOO ÂżQG Bright Brewery – a husband and wife affair, and revival of the original brewery that was founded during the gold rush in 1876, and which closed its doors in 1916 when the gold – and the miners – had all left town. The brewery tturns out six core beers, and a range of seasonals – and iit’s worth sticking your head rround the door on the way up tto the mountain to stock up on a solid local brew to enjoy in yyour chalet. Falls Creek is also home tto one of the coldest comedy ffestivals in the country. Known aas Snow Capped Comedy, Falls C Creek has convinced a handful oof the bright lights of comedy tto trek up from Melbourne ffor the weekend to showcase ttheir acts. Local lads Sammy J and Matt Okine, and MC’d bby Harley Breen,the gigs are FFR VSRQVRUHG E\ <DUUD 9DOOH\ RRXWÂżW Coldstream Brewery.

MT BULLER (VIC) M

L Located a short drive from tthe historic High Country WWRZQ RI 0DQVÂżHOG 0W %XOOHU sserves up a comprehensive

www.beerandbrewer.com

45


TRAVELLER Weekend Away

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Beer & Brewer travels to Melbourne, arguably Australia’s craft beer capital, to uncover the best places to enjoy at pot…or a pint. Words by Annette Shailer.

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omeone once told me that the difference between Melbourne and Sydney is that Melbourne is a smart brunette and Sydney is a hot blonde. Sydney’s great to look at and the perfect place for a fun weekend, but there’s not much substance underneath. Whereas Melbourne is interesting, has layers of complexity and culture that push the boundaries and leave you wanting more. Whether this is true or not, I don’t know. What I do know is that Melbourne is often

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at the forefront when it comes to craft beer and there are some fantastic hidden gems to discover. While famous for its iconic laneways adorned with street art, Melbourne is also somewhat of a burgeoning craft beer hub. Events such as the Great Australasian Beer SpecTAPular, Good Beer Week, the Australian International Beer Awards and, more recently, the CBIA Australian Craft Brewers Conference have helped cement the city’s

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craft credentials. Not to mention the number RI LQÀXHQWLDO EUHZHULHV ELJ DQG VPDOO WKDW FDOO Melbourne home such as; Mountain Goat, 7ZR %LUGV %UHZLQJ, 7KXQGHU 5RDG %UHZLQJ, Carlton & 8QLWHG %UHZHULHV and 0DWLOGD %D\ MXVW WR QDPH D IHZ :LWK 0HOERXUQH VHHPLQJO\ EXUVWLQJ DW WKH VHDPV ZLWK IDQWDVWLF EUHZHULHV DQG FUDIW EHHU EDUV LW LV LPSRVVLEOH WR JHW WR DOO RI WKHP LQ RQH YLVLW +RZHYHU ZLWK D ELW RI SODQQLQJ DQG JRRG XXVH RI 0HOERXUQH¶V WUDP V\VWHP LW¶V SRVVLEOH WR YYLVLW D VPDWWHULQJ RI WKH NH\ EHHU KXEV WKH FLW\ hhas to offer. :KDW EHWWHU SODFH WR NLFN RII D WULS WR 0HOERXUQH WKDQ DW RQH RI WKH FLW\¶V ROGHVW SXEV 0 <RXQJ -DFNVRQ D VLWH ZKLFK ZDV DFWXDOO\ < RRZQHG E\ 0HOERXUQH IRXQGHU -RKQ %DWPDQ EEDFN LQ ,W ZDV QRW XQWLO WKDW WKH EEXLOGLQJ ZDV WXUQHG LQWR D KRWHO ¿UVW DV WKH 3ULQFHV %ULGJH +RWHO DQG WKHQ DV <RXQJ 3 --DFNVRQ LQ 7KH JUDQG ROG SXE IDFLQJ )OLQGHUV 6WUHHW 6WDWLRQ LV FRPPLWWHG WR SRXULQJ ) FFUDIW EHHU DQG FLGHU ZLWK SDUWLFXODU HPSKDVLV RRQ 9LFWRULDQ PLFUREUHZHULHV &KRRVH IURP WWKH OLNHV RI &ROOLQJZRRG 'UDXJKW, %URWKHUV *URZOHU, 0RR %UHZ %HOJR and 0XUUD\¶V * $QJU\ 0DQ 3DOH DQG HLWKHU JUDE D VHDW DQG VLS $ \\RXU SLQW ZKLOH ZDWFKLQJ WKH FRORXUIXO ORFDOV RRU KHDG XSVWDLUV DQG H[SORUH WKH QRRNV DQG ccrannies of this Melbourne icon.


TRAVELLER XXXXX Weekend Away xxxxxxxxx

Once you’ve absorbed the rich history of the Young & Jackson, head across the road to Federation Square for a juxtaposition of modern architecture and technology. Nestled between the walls of glass is Beer DeLuxe, a boutique beer specialist with a beer bible featuring unique brews from local microbreweries, as well as countries across the globe. This beer lover’s haven has numerous offerings under headings such as Trappist, Sours and Fruit, Scotch Ales & Barley Wines, Bocks, IPA and more. With the Federation Square venue going gangbusters, Beer DeLuxe opened a second venue in Hawthorn in 2012. After enjoying the spoils of the city centre it’s time to jump on the Number 19 tram, head

local and international craft beer and cider across 12 taps and a hand pump in the cooler months. The brainchild of a group of mates, with venue owner Alex Summers at the helm, The Alehouse Project is dedicated to showcasing a diverse range and heavy rotation of craft beers, which are predominately only ever on tap once at the venue. Think Black Sheep the Smokey Stout from Dainton Family Brewing

THE CRAFT BEER REVOLUTION IS ALIVE AND WELL IN BRUNSWICK.” QRUWK DQG HPEDUN RQ WKH ¿UVW VWRS LQ D FLW\ circle beer tour kicking off in the multicultural, hipster hood of Brunswick. The craft beer revolution is alive and well in Brunswick, from the local breweries such as Temple Brewery and Thunder Road Brewery, to the craft beer bars and bottle shops. The embodiment of this revolution is The Alehouse Project on Lygon Street, which opened in early August 2012 with a focus on The bustling bar at The Terminus in Clifton Hill.

in Victoria or New Zealand’s Garage Project’s Bière de Garage Saison with Sour Cherries. Next stop takes us to the Good Beer Week

The writing’s on the wall at The Alehouse Project.

The Alehouse Project is dedicated to showcasing a diverse range of craft beers and ciders.

F ti l H Festival Hub, b Th The Terminus T i H Hotel t l iin N North th Fitzroy, recently named Melbourne’s Best Pub by the Herald Sun. For any beer enthusiast no trip to Melbourne is complete without a visit to The Terminus. A cocoon of crafty goodness, The Terminus has 16 taps of craft that are constantly rotating, a fridge full of bottled craft from around the world and a beer wall showcasing the range of ‘Beers without Borders’. Add to that friendly, informed staff and a food menu that successfully serves up pub classics alongside Vietnamese banh mi and bao and you’re onto a winner.


There are six taps at the brewery pouring Riverside’s core range.

TRAVELLER Brewery xxxxxxxxx Tour

Tucked away in the suburbs of Sydney, the Riverside Brewing Co is fast becoming a hit with the locals, and furtherr aďŹ eld as well. Gregor Stronach goes to visit.

RIVERSIDE BREWING Co. I

W WRRN D ELW RI ¿QGLQJ EXW LW ZDV WRWDOO\ worth the effort to stop by and spend a couple of hours shooting the breeze with Dave Padden and his offsiders at Riverside Brewing Co. Occupying an increasingly-cramped industrial unit in North Parramatta, the brewery seems almost hidden away from prying eyes – but for anyone who takes the time to wander through the doors when the cellar door hours are on (a scant eight hours per week, but enough for the team to have built a solid reputation with the local beer lovers), it’s like discovering nirvana in between a mechanic’s workshop and what

GHPDQG IRU WKHLU EHHUV Âą DQG 'DYH GHÂżQLWHO\ wants to grow the business some more. “We’ve got enough in the set-up to be turning out about 10,000 litres a week,â€? he says. And most of that is into the kegs and shipped out within hours. Some of it is bottled, with the bottling handled on site, thanks to a nifty piece of kit that makes up the bottling line at the back of the shed. “That thing cost more on its own than the rest of the gear put together,â€? Dave jokes. But it seems to be paying dividends. The brewery can barely meet demand on the bottled beer they’re producing, with most of the bottled stuff gone from the fridge within days.

All things going to plan, Dave’s about ready to start tinkering with the Russian Imperial Stout that is quietly doing its thing in the back corner of the brewery – and I might have gotten a little bit excited at the prospect of a stonking great beer aged in barrels from my favourite Australian distillery. By the time you read this, Riverside Brewing &R ZLOO KDYH FHOHEUDWHG LWV RI¿FLDO VHFRQG birthday – quite an achievement for someone who’s made the leap from serious homebrewer to commercial-level craft brewing. And if you’re ever in the neighbourhood – provided it’s on D )ULGD\ RU 6DWXUGD\ DIWHUQRRQ \RXœOO ¿QG WKH front door of the brewery wide open, and great beers and excellent company inside.

DAVE AND THE TEAM ARE WORKING HARD ON THEIR SEASONALS AS WELL AS THE CORE RANGE.â€? seems to be a window tinting shop. Inside, beyond a sturdy bar with six taps on the go – offering samples of Riverside’s core beer list – is the engine room of the tiny brewery. Virtually every square metre of floorspace is taken up with mash tuns and fermenters, often with just enough space to weasel between them to get to the good stuff inside. “We’re planning on moving soon,â€? Dave tells me. But you can hear in his voice that it’s not a prospect he’s relishing. “It was hard enough getting everything in here‌ so I’m not exactly looking forward to shifting everything out.â€? If everything continues to grow at the rate it’s currently expanding, Riverside will GHÂżQLWHO\ QHHG VRPHZKHUH QHZ WR FDOO KRPH sooner rather than later. There’s barely enough space for the equipment to meet current

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There were a couple of interesting developments that I learned about while I ZDV RXW DW WKH EUHZHU\ ¹ WKH ¿UVW RI ZKLFK is that Dave and the team are working hard on their seasonals as well as the core range. Dave pointed at one of the larger tanks and let me know that it was pretty much full of one of my favourite brews of theirs – the barnstorming 777 Double IPA. It’s a monster of a beer, and worth hunting down if you ever get the chance‌ but, seriously, good luck. It lasts about as long as a New York minute. The second was the two unlikely-looking barrels that were serving as furniture when I arrived. It took me all of two seconds to recognise their provenance – in fact, I was quietly certain I’d seen one of the barrels up close and personal before, in the bond store at Lark Distillery, Tasmania.

Inside the Riverside Brewery.

Riverside Brewing Co Unit 3, 2 N Rocks Rd, North Parramatta NSW 2151 (02) 9890 7007 www.riversidebrewing.com.au


HOMEBREW Feature Article

AN What started as a challenge at Beervana 2011 and turned into a special seasonal brew, led Homebrewer on an odyssey to ďŹ rst taste, and then clone Epic’s Coffee & Fig Imperial Oatmeal Stout. Dennis Nowak holding two of his favourites, including Epics Coffee & Fig.

JOURNEY YHU\ RULJLQDO EXW XQOLNHO\ XVH RI ÂżJV LQ EHHU His eyes lit up and he declared, “It’s probably the best beer I’ve ever had.â€? Wow. It was a massive call, but one that started a rocky 13 month journey for a clone recipe to this holy grail of beers.

THE BEER

The beer itself is an international beer of mystery. The label reveals that the oatmeal imperial stout is brewed with diced dried 7XUNLVK /HULGD ¿JV PDWXUHG RQ 6XPDWUDQ Lintong coffee beans and conditioned on toasted coconut from the Philippines. Again I say wow. This is an ambitious brew that in many ways shouldn’t work. It’s got so much going on that it’s breaking the rule of just about every cooking or design show my wife has ever made me watch – keep it simple is the key advice, and this is echoed by great brewers around the world. Hell, John Palmer even wrote an article about it in our last issue! %H\RQG WKH FRIIHH ¿J DQG FRFRQXW (SLF used eight different malts. But this Imperial Stout does work. And it works unbelievably well. The judges at Beervana 2011 agreed, voting it Champion Beer with an amazing 41 out of a possible 45 points.

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hen someone describes a beer as possibility the best they’ve ever had it’s time to listen up and take notice. This is the position I found myself in mid2013 when putting on a brew in a friend’s man cave. He enthusiastically explores the world of beer and uses the struts of his shed walls to display his most recent and treasured bottles. As a result his bottle wall is a point of conversation and is always worth a look to see what he’s been sampling since we last laid down a brew. On this chilly June day I was drawn to a 750ml bottle of Epic’s Coffee & Fig Imperial Oatmeal Stout, which was lined up amongst other great beers from around the world such as Southern Tier Imperial Pumpking and Brash ‘The Bollocks’ Imperial IPA. Cap aside on the Coffee & Fig Imperial Oatmeal Stout, the bottle and label more UHDGLO\ UHVHPEOH D ÂżQH ERWWOH RI UHG WKDQ D crafty beer. And at $30 a bottle, the price isn’t too far off either! I asked him what the beer was like, given the

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GETTING A BOTTLE :KHQ , ¿UVW VLJKWHG WKLV HPSW\ bottle on the shelf I thought I had a better chance of getting the he recipe out of Epic than I did the beer. I was wrong. In a stroke of good fortune Epic ic went all Total Recall on us and re-released the beer. I was lucky enough to come across a bottle of their 2013 vintage. The beer pours a beautiful dark cola from the bottle before blending into an impenetrable pitch black in the glass, with a tight crema head. It has a velvety smooth mouth feel, with no hint of the 8% alcohol on the tongue or in the back of the throat. 7KH FRIIHH LV ¿UVW DSSDUHQW LQ DURPD DQG ÀDYRXU ZLWK WKH WRDVWHG FRFRQXW DQG ¿JV WDNLQJ a backseat, but becoming more apparent as the glass warms. 7KLV LV GH¿QLWHO\ D EHHU IRU your bucket list.

GETTING THE RECIPE

Getting the recipe proved harder than anticipated. After some positive early

IT’S PROBABLY THE BEST BEER I’VE EVER HAD.� WHY FIGS?

Epic’s Coffee & Fig Imperial Oatmeal Stout was originally created and brewed with Dish magazine editor Victoria Wells as part of a Beervana Media Brew Challenge, where breweries were paired with media people from around New Zealand. %UHZLQJ ZLWK WKH ÂżJV VWDUWHG DV D ELW RI fun for this challenge, but once they were caramelised, it was apparent that they had some serious potential. The choice of coffee was an involved process and through the development of this beer, three different beans have been trialled. Epic have even explored wet and dry process beans. The toasted coconut was ‘dry hopped’ in a mesh bag, and according to many adds a milk or cream character.

communication with Epic, the stars could not align and Epic were not able to reveal the marvel that is their Coffee & Fig Oatmeal Imperial Stout. A setback yes, but we collected ourselves and moved on. Despite being tight-lipped about the recipe, Epic gave us a few clues through a post on their website where they shared the malts, hops and the extra goodies that went into their brew. Working with the ever reliable boys from Grain & Grape in Melbourne’s west we were able to come up with a cracking oatmeal stout recipe which we used as a base. Not content with Epic’s eight malts, we went with ten. There were a few other alterations for the homebrewer in all of us. Rather than adding whole beans post fermentation, we decided to grind them coarsely and add them to the


HOMEBREW Cloning

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ERLO WR PD[LPLVH WKHLU DURPDWLF DQG ÀDYRXU characteristics. Epic initially experimented with Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and Sidamo coffee beans, before XVLQJ 6XPDWUDQ /LQWRQJ FRIIHH EHDQV IRU WKHLU YLQWDJH ,W LV ZRUWK VHHNLQJ TXDOLW\ FRIIHH WR XVH LQ WKLV UHFLSH DQG LI \RX DUH DEOH WR VRXUFH DQ\ RI WKHVH YDULHWLHV \RX¶OO EH LPSUHVVHG E\ WKH UHVXOWV ,I QRW KDYH D JR DQG VHH ZKDW KDSSHQV :H DOVR GLVFXVVHG WKH LGHD RI DGGLQJ WKH WRDVWHG FRFRQXW WR WKH ERLO UDWKHU WKDQ µGU\ KRSSLQJ¶ LW $Q\RQH FRQFHUQHG DERXW contaminating their brew by doing this might DGG WKH WRDVWHG FRFRQXW DW WKH VDPH WLPH DV WKH ¿J RU WKH FRIIHH A special thanks to Grain & Grape for their support in putting this recipe together with little more than a few clues from the website and a healthy dose of enthusiasm! * 1RW LQFOXGLQJ ¿JV ** FRDUVHO\ JURXQG

*** Water Salts – if you are working with a soft water like you get in Melbourne or Auckland, to make something like Dublin water, you could add 8g each of calcium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate, 2g of calcium sulphate and 1g of magnesium sulphate.

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- EXTRACT WITH GR EXPECTED BREW FIGURES OG: 1077* FG: 1022 IBU: ~ 28.8 ABV: 8.4% Volume: 23 litres INGREDIENTS NJ %ULHVV /LJKW 0DOW ([WUDFW /0( *ROGHQ /LJKW J %HVW 0HODQRLGLQ 200g Weyermann Caraamber J 7) &KRFRODWH 3DOH 200g Weyermann Caraaroma 400g Simpsons Chocolate J 6LPSVRQV %ODFN 0DOW J 6LPSVRQV 5RDVWHG %DUOH\ J &DVFDGHV +RS 3HOOHWV $$

J (WKLRSLDQ RU 6XPDWUDQ /LQWRQJ &RIIHH %HDQV** J &DUDPHOL]HG 7XUNLVK )LJV J 6KUHGGHG &RFRQXW SDFNV RI :\HDVW $PHULFDQ $OH ,, RU SDFNV RI 6DIDOH 86 \HDVW Water Salts***

RECIPE 11 - ALL GRAIN

EXPECTED BREW FIGURES $PHULFDQ $OH ,, RU SDFNV RI 6DIDOH US05 yeast OG: 1078* FG: 1018 Water Salts *** IBU: ~ 28.6 ABV: 8.5% Volume: 23 litres METHOD 1. 0DVK DW o& IRU PLQXWHV INGREDIENTS NJ 6LPSVRQV $OH 0DULV 2. %ULQJ WR WKH ERLO DQG DGG J RI Otter &DVFDGH KRSV IRU WKH PLQXWH ERLO NJ %HVW 9LHQQD 3. 7DNH VRPH RI WKH ¿UVW ZRUW DQG J %HVW 0HODQRLGLQ FDUDPHOLVH WKH ¿JV LQ D SDQ J 7) 2DW 0DOW 4. $W PLQXWHV EHIRUH WKH HQG RI WKH 200g Weyermann Caraamber ERLO DGG ¿JV LQ D PHVK EDJ J 7) &KRFRODWH 3DOH 5. $W ³Ã€DPH RXW´ DGG &DVFDGH KRSV 200g Weyermann Caraaroma 6. When starting to cool the wort, add 400g Simpsons Chocolate WKH JURXQG FRIIHH LQ D PHVK EDJ J 6LPSVRQV %ODFN 0DOW 7. 5HPRYH WKH FRIIHH JURXQGV DQG ¿JV J 6LPSVRQV 5RDVWHG %DUOH\ before transferring to the fermenter. J &DVFDGHV +RS 3HOOHWV 8. )HUPHQW DW o& XVLQJ WZR SDFNV RI $$

\HDVW RU PDNH D VWDUWHU ZLWK RQH SDFN J (WKLRSLDQ RU 6XPDWUDQ 9. Towards the end of fermentation /LQWRQJ &RIIHH %HDQV** DERXW JUDYLW\ WRDVW WKH FRFRQXW J &DUDPHOL]HG 7XUNLVK )LJV lightly and add it to the fermenter J 6KUHGGHG &RFRQXW LQ D PHVK EDJ IRU DERXW VHYHQ GD\V SDFNV RI :\HDVW 5HPRYH EHIRUH ERWWOLQJ

METHOD 1. Steep grains at 75o& IRU PLQXWHV LQ OLWUHV RI ZDWHU 2. 5LQVH JUDLQV ZLWK DQRWKHU OLWUHV DW oC. 3. 7DNH VRPH RI WKH ZRUW DQG FDUDPHOLVH WKH ¿JV LQ D ZLGH FRRNLQJ YHVVHO RU SDQ 4. %RLO WKH UHVXOWLQJ ZRUW IRU PLQXWHV DQG DGG J RI Cascade hops at the start of the boil. 5. $W PLQXWHV EHIRUH WKH HQG DGG ¿JV LQ D PHVK EDJ 6. $W PLQXWHV EHIRUH WKH HQG DGG WKH PDOW H[WUDFW 7. $W ³Ã€DPH RXW´ DGG WKH UHPDLQLQJ J RI &DVFDGH KRSV 8. Cool the wort in the boiler with the lid on. 9. :KHQ VWDUWLQJ WR FRRO WKH ZRUW DGG WKH JURXQG FRIIHH in a mesh bag. 10. 5HPRYH WKH FRIIHH JURXQGV DQG ¿JV EHIRUH WUDQVIHUULQJ OLTXLG WR WKH IHUPHQWHU 11. $UUDQJH WHPSHUDWXUHV VR WKDW ZKHQ \RX DGG ZDWHU WR PDNH XS WR OLWUHV \RX HQG XS ZLWK D WHPS RI oC KDYLQJ VRPH YHU\ FROG ZDWHU LQ WKH IULGJH KHOSV 12. )HUPHQW DW o& XVLQJ WZR SDFNV RI \HDVW RU PDNH D VWDUWHU ZLWK RQH SDFN 13. 7RZDUGV WKH HQG RI IHUPHQWDWLRQ DERXW JUDYLW\ WRDVW WKH FRFRQXW OLJKWO\ DQG DGG LW WR WKH IHUPHQWHU LQ D PHVK EDJ IRU DERXW VHYHQ GD\V 5HPRYH before bottling.

RECIPE 12

- CONCENTRATE 3. $GG DQRWKHU OLWUHV RI ZDWHU WR GLVVROYHG VWRXW NLW ERLO IRU PLQXWHV 4. $W WKH VWDUW RI WKH ERLO DGG WKH ¿JV in a mesh bag. 5. $W WKH HQG RI WKH ERLO DGG DOO RI WKH Cascade hops. INGREDIENTS 6. $W WKH HQG RI WKH ERLO DGG FRIIHH LQ 6WRXW .LW RI \RXU FKRLFH D PHVK EDJ 6WHHS IRU PLQXWH NJ %ULHVV /LTXLG 6SDUNOLQJ 7. $IWHU UHPRYLQJ FRIIHH DQG ¿JV $PEHU 0DOW ([WUDFW GLVVROYH WKH PDOW H[WUDFW J &DVFDGH +RSV $$

8. Cool wort in large pot with the lid on. J (WKLRSLDQ RU 6XPDWUDQ 9. $UUDQJH WHPSHUDWXUHV VR WKDW ZKHQ /LQWRQJ &RIIHH %HDQV** J &DUDPHOL]HG 7XUNLVK )LJV \RX DGG ZDWHU WR PDNH XS WR OLWUHV \RX HQG XS ZLWK D WHPS RI DSSUR[ J 7RDVWHG &RFRQXW 18o& KDYLQJ VRPH UHDOO\ FROG ZDWHU SDFNV RI :\HDVW $PHULFDQ $OH ,, RU SDFN RI LQ WKH IULGJH IRU WKLV KHOSV Safale US05 10. )HUPHQW DW o& XVLQJ WZR SDFNV RI \HDVW RU PDNH D VWDUWHU ZLWK RQH METHOD 11. Towards the end of fermentation 1. 'LVVROYH VWRXW NLW LQ D ODUJH DERXW JUDYLW\ WRDVW WKH FRFRQXW pot with 2 litres of boiling water. OLJKWO\ XQGHU WKH JULOO DQG DGG LW WR 2. &DUDPHOLVH WKH ¿JV LQ VRPH RI WKH IHUPHQWHU LQ D PHVK EDJ IRU DERXW WKH GLVVROYHG VWRXW OLTXLG XVLQJ VHYHQ GD\V 5HPRYH EHIRUH ERWWOLQJ D ZLGH FRRNLQJ YHVVHO RU SDQ EXPECTED BREW FIGURES OG: 1082* FG: 1015 IBU: ~ 28.8 ABV: 8.6% Volume: 23 litres

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