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CONTENTS

inside... summer 2014/15

FEATURES 26 Style Notes – Saison

Beer & Brewer looks at saison, the farmhouse brew enjoying a worldwide renaissance. History, ﬂavour proﬁle and some great examples of the style

91 32 Summer Entertaining How to throw the perfect party! Beers, food and how to entertaining, over the festive season

38 Christmas is Brewing

Entertaining - Spirits We chat to Young Henrys’ Richard Adamson about his new Noble Cut Gin

HOMEBREWER 61

Welcome

What brewers want for Christmas

62 Letters 40 Better for you Drinks From low alcohol and low carb, to gluten free and alcohol free, we get the skinny on better for you drinks

46 Camping & Canned Beer We look at the top camping spots and canned craft beers to enjoy this summer

64 ANCH All the action from the Australian National Homebrewing Conference

66 Q&A 68 Recipes for the Season From Belgian wit and Coopers Abbey Blonde to saison

56 USA Breweries The ﬁrst of our two-part feature on the USA craft beer industry

Ingredient Proﬁle Chris Thomas chats to Michael Fairbrother about making mead

80 Travel We head to Fremantle in WA to check out The Monk, Little Creatures and Blacksalt Brewing

In Focus – Before they were Brewers We chat to some brewing legends about life before beer

84 Entertaining – Food Mouth-watering recipes from Mexican cookbook Cantina – hello ﬁsh tacos!

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Homebrew Club We check out Perth Home Brew Share and its member Jono Outred

“I’m on a saison crusade. Without question. I really believe that this is the style that people should be drinking as their default style.” – Costa Nikias, La Sirène

REGULARS 8

The Brew What’s happening & things to do

News The latest in Aus/NZ & awards

Beer Cultures

20 World News 22 Bits & Bobs 24

Venues

92 Tasting Notes Pale ale, new releases & extras

98 A Pint with…Paul Mercurio

Check out mouthwatering recipes 91

Summer 2014/15

1. Fantôme de Noël A great one for the festive season, this holiday seasonal beer comes in at an impressive 10% ABV. A rich, dark beer with layers of deep-roasted chocolate and spiced caramel malt ﬂavours. Some great Christmas cakelike spices shine through. This saison ﬁnishes dry with a hint of sourness.

2. La Sirène Wild Saison A beer for the adventurous. Fermented and aged with wild Brettanomyces yeast, this is arguably Australia’s truest expression of ‘the funk’. ‘Brett’ yeast character has been described as ‘barnyard’, and ‘horse blanket’, so this is not for the faint of heart. If you like pungent cheeses this one’s for you.

FOOD MATCH Christmas pudding ABV: 10% RRP: $30 per 750ml Fantome.be Available in specialty craft beer shops

FOOD MATCH

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Widely regarded as Australia’s best example of the style. A Belgian farmhouse ale, light straw coloured with a tight bright white head. The unique style defining yeast strain provides strong esters on the aroma and the characteristic dry, tart, acidic flavour profile balanced by delicate spicy, herbaceous European hop varieties.

Cheese and charcuterie board ABV: 6.5% RRP: $12.50 per 375ml Lasirene.com.au

‘TIS THE SEASON TO DRINK SAISON! THE PERFECT BEER TO PAIR WITH FOOD AND ENJOY DURING THE WARMER MONTHS, WE TAKE A LOOK AT EIGHT SAISONS FOR SUMMER

3. Bridge Road Brewers Chevalier Saison

FOOD MATCH Fresh seafood ABV: 6% RRP: $14 per 750ml Bridgeroadbrewers.com.au

4. India Saison India Saison is the hoppy, crisp and refreshing result of a north and south collaboration between Norwegian craft brewery Nøgne Ø and Bridge Road Brewers. First brewed together in Norway, this beer features Australian hop varieties, Galaxy and Stella combined with a specialty saison yeast strain.

FOOD MATCH Cheese and charcuterie ABV: 7.5% RRP: $6 per 330ml Bridgeroadbrewers.com.au

CAMPING

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Crafty Camping WITH THE WARMER WEATHER UPON US THERE’S NO BETTER TIME TO ENJOY THE GREAT AUSSIE OUTDOORS. THAT TEAMED WITH AN INCREASE IN CRAFT BREWERIES EMBRACING CANS OVER GLASS, IT’S TIME TO HEAD BUSH, PITCH A TENT AND CRACK A DELICIOUS CRAFT BREW. LUCY LE MASURIER REPORTS

here is something inherently Australian about

CAMPING HOT SPOTS

camping. Almost every Aussie has a story of a

But where to go? As someone whose camping experience begins and

holiday spent in a tent on the northern beaches of

ends in high school, I looked to more experienced sources for camping

Broome; glamping across Australia in a motorhome;

destinations and tricks of the tenting trade. Matt Bebe, co-founder of

hiking out to a secluded clearing in rural NSW or

Mornington Peninsula Brewery, an avid craft beer maker and drinker

backpacking up the East coast. Preferably not with

and lifetime camper filled me in on some of his go-to spots.

a Wolf Creek twist, this outdoors tradition is one shared by many

“We go camping every year to a place called Dargo,” Bebe says. “A

Australians. Whether it’s the smell of eucalyptus over a fresh water

friend has a property on the Wonnangatta River, so we go up there

creek, finding sand on a buttered sausage roll, or peeling skin after

every Easter and then my son and I probably go up another two times

days spent on the beach, there are countless memory triggers to

on the property again. We’ve been doing that for almost 20 years at the

camping trips from days, months or years gone by. Sharing tents,

same place, but then we went to Kiama last year on the South Coast of

sharing toiletries, sharing clothes, food, and personal space: camping

NSW and we’ve gone up to Bright and those sorts of places as well.”

is a family and friend affair, which brings people together to rejoice in the beauty that is the Australian outdoors. We also come together to relax, and in the true Australian spirit,

These days, a camping trip need not be restricted to the ‘outdoorsy’ type. Options of camping destinations extend from a one-man tent in a swag to four and a half star resort style facility. On the South

this often includes a cold brew, with eskies filled to the brim with icy

coast of NSW is Merimbula Beach NRMA Holiday Park, which includes

beverages. This does lead to a problem: with those pesky park rangers

self-contained accommodation options, beach houses and powered

not allowing glass on their camping grounds, we’ve been forced to

and unpowered caravan camping sites overlooking the ocean. Ensuite

embrace the canned variety of beer. While canned beer used to carry

bathrooms, cooking facilities, real beds and patios sound like your

a somewhat less than favourable reputation, change is in the air with

deal? The North Coasts’ Ocean Beach Holiday Park offers all this in the

microbreweries across Australia beginning to can their craft brews,

Safari Palm Tent: a decadent glamping experience.

upping the standard of canned beer. So eradicate the visions of your

Further inland is Kidman’s Camp located roughly eight kilometres

grandfather’s bar fridge filled with the patriotic green and gold can of

north of Bourke, NSW, which claims the outback experience with

a mainstream beer, because as you take to the road for your summer

an element of comfort. A rarity when thinking of outback Australia,

camping trip this year, leave your inner bogan behind. Eskies of

I know. Self-contained cabins, powered caravan sites, and a large

quality, craft brews are a thing of the now.

grassy camping area all within access to full amenities including

Summer 2014/15 47

CAMPING

Crushable Cans for the Esky WHEN PACKING FOR A CAMPING TRIP, THE DRINKS ARE JUST AS IMPORTANT AS THE GEAR! HERE’S OUR SHORT-LIST OF SOME BEER AND CIDERS TO FILL UP YOUR ESKY THIS SUMMER

BEER (1) Sixpoint The Crisp (USA) 5.4% ABV, 355ml Sixpoint The Crisp is an American craft pilsner that refreshes like a pilsner but satisfies the senses like an IPA. This is not your average pilsner! For those searching for a little more from their pilsner the blend of Old and New World hops gives wonderful aromas with clean refreshing flavours. A perfect beer for matching with any food situation from delicate seafood dishes to chargrilled BBQ ribs. (2) Mornington Pale Ale (VIC) 4.7% ABV, 375ml Mornington Pale is an American-style pale ale, with both citrus and passionfruit aromas, showcasing American hops added late in the brewing process. A light smooth palate, aided by the generous addition of wheat malts, moderate bitterness and carbonation make for a flavoursome and sessionable ale. (3) Mountain Goat Summer Ale (VIC) 4.7% ABV, 375ml Similar in style to Mountain Goat’s Skipping Girl Vinegar beer from a couple of summers ago, the Summer Ale is an easy drinking, pale yellow delight. A little dry and with flavours of passionfruit, this brew is an instant hit. Perfect for BYO-friendly festivals. (4) The Australian Brewery ‘The Pilsner’ (NSW) 4.8% ABV, 355ml With crisp, bitter characters, The Australian Brewery has created a German-inspired Aussie pilsner. Pale Australian malts mixed with perfumed New World hops.

50 www.beerandbrewer.com

USA

ALASKAN BREWING COMPANY Juneau, Alaska Alaskanbeer.com Look out for the big white bear beer tap – that’s one of the six regular beers produced by the team at the Alaskan Brewing Company. The Alaskan White is perhaps one of America’s finest witbiers produced and stands tall alongside the flagship Amber, dry hopping India Pale Ale, rich stout and green American Pale Ale. Also look out for the ‘Hypothermia’ a double IPA styled brew the brewers say is “like a massive grizzly bear in winter”. Also expect 18 further seasonal and limited edition drops. Ones to look out for include a Double Black IPA, Alaskan Birch Bock, Alaskan Imperial Red Ale, Pumpkin Porter, Troppelbock and fiery Jalapeno Imperial IPA. Their annual spring release is also one to watch out for and this year it was a cracker of an Extra Special Bitter.

ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY Portland, Maine Allagash.com Any half decent craft beer bar in America is going to have the Allagash White on tap, or at the least in a bottle. This brilliant Maine version of a Belgian wheat is loaded with a reﬁned blend of coriander and Curacao orange peel that goes down incredibly smoothly. It’s not the only standout this East Coast producer cooks up though; also try and get your hands on their full-bodied saison crafted with Tettnang, Bravo and Cascade hops; and their speciality beers, including the Grand Cru, a full-blown winter beer that features peated malt and spiced up with coriander, sweet orange peel and anise. The limited edition range is also worth a look.

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BOULEVARD BREWING Kansas City, Missouri Boulevard.com Perhaps the biggest star right now in the US craft beer and currently the largest speciality brewer in the Midwest, have been cranking out top quality brews since 1989. The Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale carries legendary status in this nation, thanks to its fruit nose led by grapefruit and its spicy, yet dry y ﬁnish. The seasonal Irish Ale, with six roasted barley and pale malts, is also a star when you can ﬁnd it, while the 80-Acre Hoppy Wheat, a hybrid IPA and wheat beer, is great in a bottle, but at its best when found on draught. Other drops to look out for include the full-bodied and bitter sweet Long Strange Tripel, the KC Pils and Bully Porter.

IN FOCUS

Dr Tim Cooper

Sunkissed Weiss – Concentrate with specialty grains Dr Tim Cooper had hoped we could feature the recipe for the Coopers Celebration Ale, which was formulated for the 150th anniversary celebrations. Alas, we have already featured this brew (Issue 24) so we asked Dr Tim for another. He selected one of his favourites - the Sunkissed Weiss.

DR TIM COOPER The Coopers Brewery is a standout

the family business, as the brewery

in the Australian beer industry.

was in financial difficulty.”

A company which has remained

“As such, I studied medicine, and

family-owned for more than 150

did not think about the company

years and has resisted takeover bids

then until Bill brought the matter

from some of the really big guys.

up in 1985. In 1986 I decided to study

What you might not have known

Brewing Science in order to gain

“This delightful weissbier displays alluring deep golden hues and carries a little extra ﬂavour than typical commercial versions,” he says. “As with most weizens, the yeast is a key ingredient in this recipe. The Munich Wheat Yeast throws hints of banana and subtle smoked bacon aromas. We’ve chosen an addition of Light Malt extract, which works nicely in the recipe but you may like to use Wheat Malt Extract instead.”

Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.042 FG: 1.006-1.010 ABV: 4.7% IBU: 21 Volume: 23 litres

Ingredients

is that chief brewer and managing

some understanding, but I was not

director, Dr Tim Cooper is a surgeon

ready to return to Australia at that

•

1.7kg Thomas Coopers Wheat Beer

and worked in the profession until

time. I continued in medicine and

•

1.5kg Thomas Coopers Light Malt Extract

coming home and following the family

medical research until 1990, and I

•

300g Crystal Wheat grain

tradition. Dr Cooper studied medicine

starting brewing in March that year.”

•

12g Pack of Perle Hop pellets (25g may be used for more overt hop character)

•

11g Munich Wheat Yeast

in both Australia and the UK before

While Dr Tim Cooper’s parents

working as a surgical resident (or

were understandably excited that

Senior House Officer) in 1981-82 and

he was returning to Australia and

then worked in general medicine from

joining the family brewery, his

the latter half of 1982 until 1990.

father in-law in Scotland thought he

“Working in hospitals in general

was mad. Surely he’d be convinced

medicine for several years gave

now given Dr Tim’s name graces a

me the opportunity to develop

can of beer!

Method 1. Place Crystal Wheat grain in a plastic ziplock bag and crack it using a rolling pin 2. Stir into 2 litres of hot water (not boiling) and let steep for about one hour

skills in problem solving and time

While his path was more certain

management. Working in the NHS

than others entering the industry,

3. Strain the steepings (liquid) into a second pan and bring to the boil

(British National Health System),

he did join at a challenging time,

4. Add the hops and boil for 30 mins

there was never a shortage of

given the financial difficulties of

problems to tackle with not enough

the first half of the 90s. When

5. Remove from the heat and sit pan in cold water to cool for about 15 mins

time to deal with them all,”

asked what guidance he’d pass on to

says Dr Cooper.

others, Dr Cooper is philosophical.

He worked for 10 years as a

“My advice would be to persist in

hospital doctor, though in 1986-

your choice, providing that you are

87 he took a year off to study

convinced of your desire to make the

Brewing Science at the University of

career change,” he says.

Birmingham. “My father spoke with me in

“It took five years for my wife and I to be convinced that we had

late 1985 about the possibility of

made the right choice. In those

my return to Adelaide to pay some

early years it did seem that we had

interest in the brewery,” he begins.

made a challenging change, but it

“This was a surprise to me, as in

worked out well in the end. I now

1973 Bill told me that the fifth

feel privileged to have had two very

generation were not going to enter

interesting careers.”

Home Brewer

6. Once cooled, strain the hop/crystal wheat blend into your fermenter and add the contents of the Wheat Beer and Light Malt Extract cans, then stir to dissolve 7. Top up with cold tap water to 20 litre mark and stir thoroughly. Top up to 23 litres using cold or warm water to finish at about 23°C 8. Sprinkle the yeast and give a light stir 9. Fermentation has finished once the specific gravity is stable over 2 days – it should finish around the 1.006-1.010 mark 10. Bottle as normal and enjoy. The Sunkissed Weiss matures reasonably quickly so don’t hold on to them for too long once secondary fermentation is complete

IN FOCUS

Dr Tim Cooper

DR TIM COOPER The Coopers Brewery is a standout

the family business, as the brewery

in the Australian beer industry.

was in financial difficulty.”

A company which has remained

“As such, I studied medicine, and

family-owned for more than 150

did not think about the company

years and has resisted takeover bids

then until Bill brought the matter

from some of the really big guys.

up in 1985. In 1986 I decided to study

What you might not have known

Brewing Science in order to gain

Expected Brew Figures OG: 1.042 FG: 1.006-1.010 ABV: 4.7% IBU: 21 Volume: 23 litres

Ingredients

is that chief brewer and managing

some understanding, but I was not

director, Dr Tim Cooper is a surgeon

ready to return to Australia at that

•

1.7kg Thomas Coopers Wheat Beer

and worked in the profession until

time. I continued in medicine and

•

1.5kg Thomas Coopers Light Malt Extract

coming home and following the family

medical research until 1990, and I

•

300g Crystal Wheat grain

tradition. Dr Cooper studied medicine

starting brewing in March that year.”

•

12g Pack of Perle Hop pellets (25g may be used for more overt hop character)

•

11g Munich Wheat Yeast

in both Australia and the UK before

While Dr Tim Cooper’s parents

working as a surgical resident (or

were understandably excited that

Senior House Officer) in 1981-82 and

he was returning to Australia and

then worked in general medicine from

joining the family brewery, his

the latter half of 1982 until 1990.

father in-law in Scotland thought he

“Working in hospitals in general

was mad. Surely he’d be convinced

medicine for several years gave

now given Dr Tim’s name graces a

me the opportunity to develop

can of beer!

Method 1. Place Crystal Wheat grain in a plastic ziplock bag and crack it using a rolling pin 2. Stir into 2 litres of hot water (not boiling) and let steep for about one hour

skills in problem solving and time

While his path was more certain

management. Working in the NHS

than others entering the industry,

3. Strain the steepings (liquid) into a second pan and bring to the boil

(British National Health System),

he did join at a challenging time,

4. Add the hops and boil for 30 mins

there was never a shortage of

given the financial difficulties of

problems to tackle with not enough

the first half of the 90s. When

5. Remove from the heat and sit pan in cold water to cool for about 15 mins

time to deal with them all,”

asked what guidance he’d pass on to

says Dr Cooper.

others, Dr Cooper is philosophical.

He worked for 10 years as a

“My advice would be to persist in

hospital doctor, though in 1986-

your choice, providing that you are

87 he took a year off to study

convinced of your desire to make the

Brewing Science at the University of

career change,” he says.

Birmingham. “My father spoke with me in

“It took five years for my wife and I to be convinced that we had

late 1985 about the possibility of

made the right choice. In those

my return to Adelaide to pay some

early years it did seem that we had

interest in the brewery,” he begins.

made a challenging change, but it

“This was a surprise to me, as in

worked out well in the end. I now

1973 Bill told me that the fifth

feel privileged to have had two very

generation were not going to enter

interesting careers.”

Home Brewer

TRAVEL

The Birthplace of Aussie Craft BEST KNOWN FOR BEING THE PORT OF PERTH AND FOR THEIR PURPLE-JERSEY-WEARING AFL TEAM, FREMANTLE IS ALSO HOME TO THREE BREWERIES AND BEER WRITER JEREMY SAMBROOKS

’m sitting on the balcony at Little Creatures Next Door, overlooking the fishing boat harbour. The sun is beginning to set and a glass of pale ale is in my hand. Life is good. For a beer lover, Western Australia is becoming an

first modern brewpub was born. Compared to the domestic pale lagers that dominated the market, the ales at Sail & Anchor were a revelation of complexity and flavour and soon the little brewery was struggling to keep up with demand. While

increasingly great place to live, with craft brewery hot-spots

the brewery was decommissioned in 2010, the Sail & Anchor remains a

in Margaret River and the Swan Valley, some of the country’s

genuine craft beer destination to this day and will always be known as the

best bottle shops and a flurry of small bars opening in and around

place that changed local perceptions about what beer could be.

the Perth CBD. However, it’s still hard to beat the satisfaction that comes from a pint of an old favourite in Fremantle, the birthplace of

LITTLE CREATURES

Australian craft beer.

If the Sail & Anchor got the Australian beer revolution rolling, then

It all started back in 1984, a time when beer preferences ran along

Little Creatures helped to push it into the next gear. The brewery

state lines and choices at pubs were generally limited to a couple of

building, which backs onto Fishing Boat Harbour, was originally

near-identical pale lagers. The owners of the newly-formed Matilda

constructed to house yachts participating in the 1987 America’s Cup

Bay Brewing Company purchased the run-down Freemasons Hotel,

and was subsequently used as a crocodile farm before being converted

made renovations, installed a small brewery and re-named it Sail &

for its current use. The brewery released its first beer, Little Creatures

Anchor. Hence, Australia’s first new brewery since World War II and

Pale Ale, in 2000 and it quickly developed a cult following. With its

80 www.beerandbrewer.com

FREMANTLE MARKETS

Where to eat/drink Visitors to Fremantle are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining and drinking options. All three breweries do excellent, reasonably priced food, but Fremantle is also home to three pubs which rate as a ‘must visit’ to any selfrespecting beer aﬁcionado.

use of fresh, whole Cascade hop flowers, the ale

most recently, a second Little Creatures brewery

smelt and tasted like nothing before within these

in Geelong. In 2012, Little Creatures was bought by

shores. While far bigger, hoppier beers have

Japanese-owned brewing giant, Lion, in a deal worth

followed since, Little Creatures Pale Ale remains a

roughly $380 million. Reactions to the sale of what

benchmark for the American Pale Ale style.

had become a ‘Freo’ icon ranged from outrage to

The other regular Little Creatures beers are: Rogers’ Beer (amber mid-strength), Original Pilsner, Bright Ale, Pipsqueak Cider and their

ambivalence to some who saw it as an endorsement that craft beer has a real future in Australia. Today, Little Creatures employs 40 brewers

latest brew, an IPA. From time-to-time, curiosity

across both sites, one of whom is Russell Gosling,

gets the better of the brewers and they release a

head brewer at the Fremantle brewery.

single batch beer, which are available in pint-sized bottles and invariably sell out quickly. Little Creatures has grown over the years,

“I studied Brewing Science at The International Centre for Brewing and Distilling in Edinburgh before I journeyed around the UK learning my

expanding its capacity, opening a little brother

trade at Harveys, Ushers, Fuller’s, Thomas Hardy

brewery White Rabbit in Healesville, Victoria and

and Everards,” said Russell. “I decided to venture

The Sail & Anchor is a former brewpub and a Fremantle icon in its own right. Since the brewery was decommissioned in 2010, the venue has established itself as one of the country’s premier craft beer venues with three bars, 38 cold taps, three beer engines, a hopinator and a growing list of bottled beers and ciders. Just down the road is the Norfolk Hotel, home to some of Fremantle’s best pub grub and an impressive line-up of local and imported beer across their taps, particularly at the craft beer bar located inside. Clancy’s Fish Pub Fremantle is the original of four Clancy’s venues and since 1996 has been serving up generous servings of locally caught seafood, chips in paper cones and for the daring – ‘fried mice’ – deep fried jalapeno chillies filled with cream cheese. Clancy’s are also big supporters of local breweries, with WA-brewed beer on all-but-one of their taps. For cheap eats, consider any of Freo’s three burgers bars – Missy Moos, Jus Burgers and Grill’d – or perhaps a classic fish ‘n’ chips from Cicerello’s or Kailis Bros. For somewhere a bit more upmarket, foodies should definitely check out Public & Co. which is a relatively new restaurant that focuses on share plates and has an excellent bottled beer list. If you’re looking for some beer to take back to your accommodation, your best bet is at The Freo Doctor Liquor Store, who offer a wide range of local and imported bottled beers and have a growler-fill station.

Aerial view of Little Creatures Brewery

Summer 2014/15