FIND OUT WHY GLASS IS STILL ALL CLASS FOR CRAFT BEER (see page 30) INCLUDING
ISSUE 58 SPRING 2021 PRICE $9.95 (NZ $11.95)
THE NEXT BIG THING
MALT’S TIME TO SHINE
THE RETURN OF THE KING!
WITH THE GRAIN
HOW TO START ALL GRAIN BREWING
GAGE ROADS’ ROSS BROWN ON CRAFT LAGER’S NEW REIGN
BEERS & CIDERS
REVIEWED WWW.BEERANDBREWER.COM
PLUS! BREW BETTER KETTLE SOURS | BEER MEMORIES | 5 DIY RECIPES
CONTENTS
Spring 2021
47
FEATURES 10 The return of the King
Craft lager’s renaissance
22 The next big thing
10
It’s malt’s time to shine
30 Glass half full Glass is still all class
“There will always be a place for lager in Australia,”
REGULARS 6 Beer memories
Paul Holgate
8 Behind the beer Belgian Saison
Ross Brown, Gage Roads
18 Style shoot Lawnmower beers
20 A pint with Jaz Wearin
50 Food matching 54 Tasting notes
HOMEBREWER 38 Editor’s letters 40 Q&A with John Palmer Brew better sours
42 Jake’s Brew Log Lagers
44 All grain brewing 47 Show us Yours Reader’s home brew set ups
48 Recipes
4 www.beerandbrewer.com
22
EDITOR’S LETTER
Because 2021 has been equally as topsy-turvy as last year we’ve figured we’d run with that theme in this issue and flip things on their heads to champion the so-called underdogs of beer. So instead of riding the IPA hype train we’re all aboard the lager locomotive.
WE ENCOURAGE RESPONSIBLE DRINKING
Rather than hop up and down about hops we’re going mad for malt. And despite cans seemingly muscling all other packaging formats out of
Get the facts DrinkWise.org.au
their way, we’re putting some throttle back in the bottle.
PUBLISHED BY Food and Beverage Media 41 Bridge Road GLEBE NSW Australia 2037 Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419
Gage Roads’ Ross Brown and Brick Lane’s Kade Wilson about why craft lager is
To kicks things off, in our cover feature from page 10, we chat with the likes of
PUBLISHER Paul Wootton | pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Gifford Lee | gifford@beerandbrewer.com EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Jono Outred, Adam Carswell HOMEBREWER EDITOR Jake Brandish | jake@beerandbrewer.com NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Craig Manning | CManning@intermedia.com.au Tel: 02 8586 6123 GENERAL MANAGER SALES – LIQUOR & HOSPITALITY GROUP Shane T. Williams GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn | kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper | jacqui@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTIONS Tel: 1800 651 422 | Fax: +61 2 8580 6312 subscribe@beerandbrewer.com | www.shop.beerandbrewer.com Mail: PO Box 161, Hornsby NSW 1630 SUBSCRIPTION RATE Australia $79.95 3 years (12 issues) savings $39.41 (33%) $54.99 2 years (8 issues) saving $24.61 (31%) $29.99 1 year (4 issues) saving $9.81 (25%) New Zealand $88.99 3 years (12 issues) saving $30.41 (25%) $60.99 2 years (8 issues) saving $18.61 (23%) $32.99 1 year (4 issues) saving $6.81 (17%) International $132.99 3 years (12 issues) $89.99 2 years (8 issues) $47.99 1 year (4 issues) Rate in AUD and incl. 10% GST for Australia, excluding GST for NZ and International PRINTING IVE Sydney DISTRIBUTION OVATO, D&D Mailing, ISSN 1834 5115 DISCLAIMER
This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.
Copyright © 2021 - Food and Beverage Media
regaining its status as one of the industry’s more popular and discerning styles while road testing a few examples that have helped pave that road. The lager theme continues in this issue’s style shoot (page 18) and our HomeBrewer section – where we provide three separate DIY recipes and delve into some of the technical aspects behind brewing the King of beers. From page 22 multiple industry figures detail why they think malt is beer’s next big thing as the demands of both brewers and consumers drive maltsters to deliver a wider variety of products that come with greater provenance. And starting on page 30 we discover how bottles are holding on to their reputation in certain pockets of the industry. Elsewhere in the magazine we taste and review 86 craft beers and ciders where even though sours are our seasonal focus readers will find something for all palates in the 12 pages of analysis. Speaking of sours, home brewers can learn how to brew them better from our resident guru John Palmer on page 40 while Jake Brandish guides beginners through the wonderful pastime that is all grain brewing (page 44). And if you’re a subscriber we hope you enjoy the added bonus that comes free with this issue – The Great Australian Brewery Guide – and that (depending on the restrictions that are in play when and where you’re reading this) you’ve been able to show your support in a few of the breweries featured by the time we see you again in Summer. (If you bought this issue in a newsagent or borrowed it from a mate, you can still grab a copy of the brewery guide by visiting the subscriptions section on our website.) Cheers, Gifford Lee Editor, Beer & Brewer gifford@beerandbrewer.com @beerandbrewer
The Intermedia Group’s Environmental Responsibility The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.
Find us on... SPRING 2021 3
BEHIND THE BEER
“BEING NESTLED BETWEEN THE HUNTER VALLEY WINE REGION AND A HANDFUL OF OTHER COLOURFUL VINEYARDS, MURRAY’S LOCATION WAS DESTINED FOR A BEER AND WINE MELTING POT,” JAKE BLASCHKA
8 www.beerandbrewer.com
BEHIND THE BEER
Bridging the gap OUR SERIES THAT LOOKS BEHIND A PARTICULAR STYLE OF BEER CONTINUES THIS ISSUE WITH THE SAISON (ALBEIT ONE WITH A TWIST) WHERE WE CHAT WITH JAKE BLASCHKA – HEAD BREWER AT MURRAY’S BREWING IN PORT STEPHENS – WHO HAS CONNECTED THE TWO WORLDS OF BEER AND WINE WITH HIS LE PONT ROUGE. Jake is a visual artist and brewer who had been living
After mashing and lautering a grain bill at two
between Berlin and London for the past five years
thirds the size of our regular batch size, we then
whilst exhibiting his art around Europe. After COVID
transferred the grape juice into the top of the kettle
took hold in early 2020 he decided to head home
at the last five minutes of the boil via a barrel spear.
and it wasn’t long before he landed his current role
We then brought it back to a boil for a few minutes
at Murray’s. Since coming on board he’s refined a
to kill any funk, then whirlpooled as usual – adding
few of the core range beer recipes, culled a few, and
Citra and Callista – and then ran it through the heat
begun introducing exciting new beers he thinks stand
exchange on the way over to the fermenting vessel
up well against all the weird and wonderful things
before pitching my favourite Belgian Saison yeast
coming out of the contemporary craft beer scene – the
strain. Basically, the beer’s fermentable sugars were
Le Pont Rouge included – a Belgian Saison blended
comprised of two thirds from grains and the other
with Shiraz grapes sourced from a single vineyard in
third from grapes – which were then fermented with
the Hunter Valley.
one strain of brewer’s yeast.
HOW DOES IT RELATE TO A TRADITIONAL BELGIAN SAISON AND HOW IS IT CARVING ITS OWN PATH?
WHAT WERE THE CHALLENGES IN ITS CREATION?
I wanted to make sure it was still able to have a
fashion from a functioning vineyard in the Hunter
conversation with a traditional Belgian Saison without
Valley region (friends of one of our distillers) a day
having the Shiraz grape characteristics screaming out
after harvest, you can imagine they wanted to get the
too much for your attention. When it comes to beer and
juice out of their sight as soon as humanly possible!
grape blending, I have always found that brewers tend to
I remember running around the brewery trying to
lean toward a Berliner Weisse or Lambic-style beer base
gather any vessels that could possibly be loaded on
as a starting point. In hope of creating a beer that appeals
to the back of a truck to fill the 1,000 litres of red
to both wine drinkers and beer drinkers, that might not
grape juice (and 1,000 litres of white grape juice for
be too fond of sour beers, an easy drinking beer and wine
the Le Pont Blanc also). I knew this beer’s success
hybrid is where I wanted to carve some new territory.
would be dependant on a dry finish so those daily
As we purchased the grape juice in relatively ad-hoc
Murray’s Brewing Le Pont Rouge Malts: Gladfield Pilsner, Vienna, Flaked Wheat & Gladfield Chit Malt Hops: Callista & Citra Colour: Hot Pink Bitterness: 20 IBU ABV: 6.8% What our tasting panel said: “The light body still oozes complexity, with an earthy richness from the Shiraz grapes merging with the underlying Saison for an almost Pinot Noiresque delicacy. An inspiring and rewarding brew, Le Pont Rouge is the perfect tipple to share with friends after dinner.” See page 56 for our full analysis, where it’s made our Top 16 Panel Picks, as has its sister – the Le Pont Blanc. Plus on page 63 we also review other Murray’s releases – Ghost Gate, Riding the Ghost Train, After Dark and Puff Pastry Stout.
(and sometimes hourly) gravity checks were definitely
CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE MEANING BEHIND THE LE PONT NAME?
nerve racking!
In French, the words translate directly as ‘the bridge’, so we are borrowing them to represent the idea of
WHAT ARE SOME OTHER MURRAY’S BEERS PEOPLE SHOULD CHECK OUT?
bridging a gap between beer and wine. Being nestled
Riding the Ghost Train is a big ol’ hazy juice boy that’s
between the Hunter Valley wine region and a handful
been getting some rave reviews online. The Le Pont
of other colourful vineyards, Murray’s location was
Blanc, Rouge’s sister made using the same process
destined for a beer and wine melting pot.
although employing Roussanne grapes and a light kiss of French oak, drinks like a sparkling Chardonnay at
WHAT WAS THE BREWING PROCESS FOR THIS RELEASE?
only 6.6%. This one makes me smile with every sip.
I largely adhered to traditional brewing techniques
a tropical West Coast IPA that screams mango and
as I wanted it to sit a little closer to beer territory.
pineapple in all its West Coast goodness.
But above all you must get your hands on a Nectabomb,
SPRING 2021 9
LAGER FEATURE
The return of the King FROM FRUITED AND BARREL-AGED, TO STRINGENTLY BREWED AND HISTORICALLY ACCURATE INTERPRETATIONS, THE NOTORIOUSLY “ORDINARY” BEER OF THE CRAFT WORLD IS GARNERING DISTINCTION THANKS TO ITS CHALLENGING NATURE IN THE BREWHOUSE AND ITS REFINED CHARACTER. BY JONO OUTRED.
10 www.beerandbrewer.com
L
ager is without a doubt the most brewed, consumed and prolific beer style on the planet. But utter it in the same sentence as “craft” and you might find yourself on the receiving end of a few curious looks. Once shunned and oft considered boring by craft drinkers, the style is experiencing a swift renaissance, rising from the mainstream macro ashes and being rightfully lauded for its
technical challenge and adaptable character. Today, craft-driven consumers are finding appreciation for lagers that are full-flavoured and showcase process and ingredients, while inadvertently being a marker for a brewer’s technical prowess. Does the rise of “boring old lager” signify that craft beer has come full circle? Global preference for lager among most beer consumers is a potential cause for the influx of marketable and approachable bottom-fermented beers. With craft beer’s growing presence and market share, it was only a matter of time before the two worlds collided. Importantly, the modern brewer can find a happy medium between piquing the interest of a broader crowd (and moving more units), while sticking to the ethos and expectations that resonate with a progressive, and sometimes turbulent craft beer industry. In the constantly evolving era of beer, lagers are cutting through the saturated, sub-style-dominated tap line ups and offering consumers a new perspective on an old favourite.
REIGNING SUPREME The history of lager is long and celebrated. Some sources can trace its origins back to medieval times while others have even claimed to have identified the parent yeast to Saccharomyces pastorianus, the strain that famously bottom ferments lagers, making them distinct compared to other styles. A tumultuous period around the mid-to-late 1800s, however, is when lagers really started their steady rise to dominance as the most widely consumed beer on the planet. Coming from the German word “lagern” meaning “to store”, lagers were traditionally made and stored in caves and underground cellars in barrels. Breweries often ran fire or rudimentary steam-powered kettles to boil their wort while ice blocks or cool cave walls provided cooling for fermentation. Wood-fired malts were common at the time, resulting in beers most modern drinkers would not recognise as lagers – cloudy, smoky and amber-to-dark in colour. Sourness due to spoilage was an unfortunate but common feature. Seasonality, war, politics and transport were all factors that influenced the style (and quality). But thanks to demand, tradition, quality, and the ancient Reinheitsgebot (the Bavarian Purity Law of 1516), lagers evolved steadily into the beers we more commonly recognise today. Through this evolution, lager went through a rapid industrialisation process. Malting became easier, and lighter coloured malt, that lacked smoke flavours, became achievable as artificial refrigeration allowed brewers to control their fermentations with more precision. Advances in engineering, chemistry and microbiology advanced the lager industry. By 1860, Louis Pasteur accurately observed and described the process of fermentation and in 1883 Emil Christian Hansen built upon this knowledge, isolating a single pure strain of S.carlsbergenisis (now recognised as S.pastorianus). In doing so, large scale lager brewing became easily repeatable and predictable. This changed the course of beer production forever. Before long, lager grew to be the most brewed style across Europe and eventually the US, Australasia, Asia, South America and finally, in 1989, surpassed English Ales as the most widely consumed beer in the UK. Thanks to newly emigrated German-American brewers, the popularity of lager grew throughout North America. Over time, the introduction of corn and US 6-row
Low ABV, high quality In a world saturated with high ABV beers, it isn’t surprising that a low and no alcohol beer segment is developing a following, perhaps reinforced by the fact that most adults have some level of consideration around health and healthier alternatives. The want for something that resembles beer is a key factor for many and trends suggest that many drinkers are seeking out light, uncomplicated beers so utilising lager for these low ABV beers makes plenty of sense. UpFlow Brewing has found their place in the low ABV market, producing a range that includes a Stout, an IPA, a Pale Ale and the Ultra Pale Lager (the latter two being boosted with minerals to double as a hypotonic, hydrating post sport drink). Most importantly, what’s in the can is still beer, and very good beer at that. The Ultra Pale Lager, at just 74 calories per tin, is bolstered with malt sweetness, noble hop aromatics and a textbook crispness. Though it might appear to be voodoo magic stripping the booze from a delicious malt and hop-based beverage, it’s actually quite simple. Though a few methods do exist, including reverse osmosis filtration, heat treating and distillation, the team at UpFlow do not actually brew their beer any differently to their conventional counterparts. Recipe formulation and tweaking key components within the brewing process, like mash temperature, yeast selection and water chemistry, yield a beer that lands at a remarkably low 0.5% ABV with the best parts still intact. While alcohol levels in some beers might be trending in the downward direction, the case for having some low alcohol beer in your fridge is certainly starting to rise.
malt saw the steady rise in a new style of lager – the American Light Lager,
SPRING 2021 11
BOTTLED BEER
Glass half full DESPITE CANS ROLLING ON AS THE INCREASINGLY PREFERRED PACKAGING FORMAT FOR AUSTRALIAN CRAFT BEER, GLASS STILL RETAINS ITS STATUS IN CERTAIN POCKETS OF THE INDUSTRY. GIFFORD LEE SPOKE WITH A FEW OF THOSE BREWERIES ABOUT WHY GLASS IS STILL CLASS.
I
n 2020, for the first time since it
But to flip that on its head, a dominant
simply prefers their beers to come that way
was launched in 2016, Beer Cartel’s
majority of beer sold by the major bottle
to supplying restaurants who find the art of
Australian Craft Beer Survey didn’t
shops still come in bottles. Just consider for
serving a bottle of beer as more premium
bother to canvas respondents about
a second all those roomy, walk-in fridges
in nature and therefore deserving of a more
their preferred beer packaging
with their cartons upon cartons of 24-packs
premium price on the drinks menu. And
format. Needing to cull some
of macro lagers from here and abroad. They
it’s also interesting to note, that bottles are
questions to fit in others, and after having
are predominantly still in bottles and the
defying the broader craft beer packaging
seen such predilection towards cans from the
space the big chains dedicate to them, both
trends when it comes to some of the non-
2019 survey results (38 per cent over 27 per
in fridges and on shelves, shadows what they
alcoholic craft beers flooding the market. As
cent for bottles), they no doubt thought there
dedicate to craft in cans.
the makers are saying, a bottle helps them to
were more pertinent queries to be made to
Somewhere in between those two extremes
exhibit more of a sense of being a beer when
garner fresh insights about their customers.
lie Stone & Wood, Coopers, Little Creatures,
some of what makes them an actual beer has
As far as Australia’s biggest online craft
James Squire, 4 Pines and multiple other
been taken away.
beer retailer was concerned, the people had
breweries of all sizes, who all still champion
already spoken – that while craft beer in
beer sold in bottles – albeit increasingly so
fridges by the robust tinnie, the bottle’s place
bottles wasn’t quite dead yet, cans were well
alongside cans. They do it for a multitude of
in our drinking culture will be a hard ceiling
on their way to burying them in 2020.
reasons – from satisfying the drinker who
to completely smash for the can.
30 www.beerandbrewer.com
While they are being hustled out of craft
BOTTLED BEER
ON THE BOTTLE, AGAIN
a premium setting or from people that just prefer
One such backer of bottles, and who recently
their beer that way – and that will be someone from
commissioned their Torquay brewery with not a
a craft background as well as the more middle-of-
canning line in sight, is Sou’West Brewery, who
the-road drinker.”
opened in the former Quiksilver headquarters in
In both Sou’West’s and (up until recently)
May to further enhance the region’s burgeoning
Prickly Moses’ cases, it hasn’t been a matter of
beer scene.
not choosing to move with the times but rather of
Their head brewer Luke Scott, who in his 20-plus
targeting their beers at a certain drinker.
years in the Australian beer industry has seen it
At Sou’West, just their Lager and Pale Ale
evolve in more ways than just from bottles into
are being packaged currently and they are only
cans, said the shift in packaging format preference
available at their venue for takeaway – meaning just
“in the last five to six years has been phenomenal”.
five to 10 per cent of their production is directed in
But with Sou’West, and especially so in is former
to bottles.
role at Prickly Moses, Luke’s beers have defied
“Even though we aren’t packaging our beers in
those trends to almost exclusively be released
any great numbers the decision was made early to
in bottles for the best part of the last 15 years
put in a bottling line and to make sure we were able
(although Prickly Moses are increasingly releasing
to put our beer in people’s hands when they wanted
their beers in cans now).
to take them away,” Luke said. “Our lager is a
“I think there’s always going to be a place for
mainstream-based lager so one of the drinkers that
bottled beer. It might only be a small group of
we are targeting is used to drinking their beer from
breweries that stick with bottles, but there will
a bottle. With bottles, we’re approachable to people
always be a market for them – whether that is in
who are already cultured that way.”
“I THINK THERE’S ALWAYS GOING TO BE A PLACE FOR BOTTLED BEER,” LUKE SCOTT, SOU’WEST BREWERY
SPRING 2021 31
Q&A
Kettle sours HOME BREW LEGEND JOHN PALMER RESPONDS TO A READER’S LETTER ABOUT KETTLE SOURS.
I
t’s fascinating to me how
desired sourness (pH), resume
become mainstream for so
normal brewing operations
many home brewers! I used
(bring it to a boil and do your hop
to think sour beers were
additions).
for the elite, the daring and
the sagacious! For those of you who have never
HITTING A SOUR NOTE Of course, there are several
done a kettle sour, the process is
considerations that need to
fairly simple:
be understood with the kettle
1. M ash and lauter (or BIAB) your
souring process, but overall, it
grist as usual. 2. B ring the wort to a boil for 5 to 10
is not complicated. The short boil is an optional step for many
minutes to kill off unwanted souring
brewers, but unless you have done
bacteria that may have survived the
the same recipe and the same
mash. Do not add hops.
procedure several times, I would
3. Chill the wort to 38 to 43°C. Room
not recommend skipping it. The
temperature will also work, but it
short boil ensures that the wort is
works better warmer.
thoroughly pasteurised and that no
4. Pitch your bacteria culture to the kettle. 5. A llow the wort to sour for 24
40 Home Brewer
6. W hen the wort has reached the
quickly kettle sours have
Enterobacter-type bacteria have survived the mash to make your kettle sour smell like vomit. If you
hours. Try to maintain the 35 to
had performed a mash out step
40°C temperature.
with recirculation, then that would
probably be sufficient and you could
TO ANSWER THE QUESTION
skip the short boil.
Lallemand SourPhilly® is a Lanchancea
Cooling the wort to the
thermotolerens strain, which is a
recommended pitching range is
different genus than Saccharomyces
also recommended. Maintaining
cerevisiae beer, wine, and baking
that temperature (around 35°C)
yeasts. Lanchancea is readily found
is also recommended but may
in nature and is a typical constituent
require a heating blanket. Room
of natural (ie. not inoculated) wine
temperature would work, but the
fermentations. Thermotolerens is a
growth and resulting acidification
unique species of Lanchanea that also
would be slower. In How to Brew
produces lactic acid as it ferments.
Chapter 14 Brewing Sour Beers,
It is not a strong yeast, at least when
I recommend pre-acidifying the
compared with cerevisiae.
wort with off-the-shelf lactic acid
predict how people will use your
and inhibit protease degradation of
product, and be able to guarantee good
the foam proteins. If you can pitch
results. Thus, for best, most consistent
a sufficient amount of lactobacillus,
results, Lallemand doesn’t recommend
then you will most likely achieve
priming and bottle conditioning with
your sourness level (3.2-3.8 pH) in 24
this yeast. It would probably work, most
hours and the foam proteins will be
of the time, but there is a significant
mostly unaffected. A lower pitching
chance that a primed beer would not
rate, or cooler souring temperature
fully carbonate. In addition, there is a
could slow the souring to 48 hours
variant of this species that expresses
(for example) and that could result in
a diastatic enzyme that could result in
head retention loss. Pre-acidification
breakdown of normally unfermentable
is belt and suspenders and is
dextrins and over pressurisation.
probably not needed – especially if
Therefore, Lallemand recommends
you do the short boil.
the use of a Saccharomyces yeast for
The general rule of thumb for yeast
Zilwaukee Bridge Bruin
As a manufacturer, it is hard to
to discourage wild bacterial growth
bottle conditioning. This could be
Sour brown beers are one of my favorite styles. This recipe is a departure from my Tittabawasee Brown Ale in How to Brew, and is named after the bridge further downstream as it goes past Saginaw Metal Castings Operations of General Motors which is where they make a lot of engine blocks.
All Grain Recipe (BIAB) (expected figures) OG: 1.060 FG: 1.014 ABV: 5.5% IBU: 30 Volume: 23 litres
Ingredients
pitching rates will work for bacteria
any robust ale or lager yeast that you
4.5kg Pale Ale malt
for kettle souring i.e. one billion cells
would find at your local brew shop.
500gm Simpsons Brown malt (400L)
per litre per degree Plato. (1°Plato
Saccharomyces will outcompete
500gm Caramel malt (80L)
= 4 gravity points). However, lower
or actually suppress the growth of
pitching rates (0.2 to 0.5 billion per
Lachancea (this is the “killer” aspect)
litre per °P) work just as well and save
by secreting polypeptides that create
you some money. You don’t need to
holes in the cell membranes of other
Lallemand Philly Sour yeast
pitch as much bacteria as you do yeast
yeast species or genus. It is actually
Recommended water profile
because they don’t eat very much –
why fermentation by S. cerevisiae, as
about three gravity points (0.003).
we have known it in both brewing and
Ca2 50 -100, Mg2 20, TA 75 - 125, SO42 50 - 100, Cl- 50 - 100, RA 50 -100
You are generally targeting a soured pH of 3.2 to 3.8 and (this is important) you need to measure this
150g Roasted barley 20g Ella hop pellets
baking, has been so successful for millennia. The bottom line is that Lachancea
with a digital pH meter, not pH test
will produce a very tasty sour beer
strips! I’m sorry, but they are just not
without the need for the delayed brew
reliable when it comes to measuring
kettle souring process. This yeast
wort and beer. After the wort has
genus is known for fresh fruit flavours
soured, you can bring it back to a boil
and aromas like peach and apple. Do
and continue with the recipe. The
I think it will revolutionise brewing
last consideration is that the lower
sours at home and commercially?
pH is more stressful on the yeast
Maybe. Like the Kveik yeast strains, it
and therefore the fermentation of
certainly is a game changer. Currently
the beer benefits from a higher yeast
there is only this particular strain of it,
pitching rate, generally 33 per cent
as opposed to a dozen different strains
more than you would normally use.
of Kveik on the market, but with time I
This should be sufficient.
think we will see more.
Method 1. Heat 30 litres to 72°C. You are shooting for a mash temperature of 67°C. 2. Immerse the grain bag in the water and stir the grist to ensure it is fully wetted. 3. Mash with occasional stirring for 1 hour. 4. Lift the grain bag out of the kettle and allow to drain. You should have 27 litres of 1.050 wort. 5. Add the hops and boil the wort for 60 minutes (to 23 litres). 6. Chill the wort to 20°C and pitch the yeast. Allow two weeks for fermentation. 7. Keg or bottle. If priming and bottling, use one package of rehydrated, dry ale yeast that has good alcohol tolerance.
SPRING 2021 41
FEATURE
All grain brewing IT HAS TO BE ONE OF THE BEST PASTIMES IN THE WORLD. JAKE BRANDISH LOOKS AT THE INS AND OUTS OF ALL GRAIN BREWING. Making the leap into all grain brewing is a decision one should not take lightly. The world of a two hour brew is now way behind you, and you have committed to hours of labour and toil. But I must say, it is the most satisfying and rewarding way to spend your time’. I will always remember my very first all grain brewing demonstration at Brew Mart here in Perth, by Jeff (G’day Barfridge). It was amazing! I remember thinking to myself “this is much easier than I had anticipated!”. After all the hours of reading I had this picture in my mind of needing so much gear and being very precise with temperatures etc., that I was very nervous about going all grain. I had extract brewed for a few years and decided now was the time to leap in. Jeff made this process look so easy, but more so he was having fun doing it! You could see it written all over his face! I knew I had to have some of this fun too!
GEAR UP Whether you are new to brewing and have decided to just go head-on into all-grain, or you are an extract brewer looking to get more control, you will need to invest in some gear. There are a few ways to do this. The first place to hit is your local home brew shop and see what they have (they have EVERYTHING!) and what you can get for the amount of money you want to spend. You can go all out here, believe me! Suppliers like New Era will have just about everything you will need, and have some serious bling to add to your collection. You may also come to the conclusion that you have half of this
44 Home Brewer
stuff around the house, or if you are like me you may want to build your own equipment. Most of my gear is converted stainless steel tanks which I have cut and welded myself – which is half of the fun! To start all grain brewing you will need the following pieces of gear: - Grain mill (to crack the grain open). It’s one of the most important pieces of equipment so don’t buy a cheap flour mill, you do not want flour! - Hot liquor tank (hot water tank). A boiler or urn is a good place to start (to hit the specific temperatures you will need). - Mash tun. An insulated vessel used to strain the sugary liquid gold (wort) from the grains. - Temperature probe or thermometer. To check your target temperatures (some mash tuns have an in-built temperature probe to give continual temperature reading). - Kettle. To boil the wort in order to isomerise the hops, to sterilIse the wort and to drive off any volatile chemical compounds. - Heat exchanger. To chill the wort from near boiling, down to a suitable temperature
perforated plate or manifold to distribute the
to pitch the yeast and get fermentation
liquor evenly (so it doesn’t just run down the
underway. You can of course do the ‘no-
side of the grain bed and not actually doing
chill’ method.
much rinsing). I have even seen some home
- Pump. To pump water, wort etc. You may
brewers use a shower head to do this. Once in
need two pumps unless you can utilise
the kettle, it is boiled for an hour and hops are
gravity and have the hot liquor tank above
added at different stages depending on what
the mash tun and kettle.
you are brewing. Hot wort off the boil is then
John Preston
run through a heat exchanger to reduce it to
THE ALL GRAIN PROCESS
yeast pitching temperature.
If you haven’t already done so, there are a plethora of brewing texts and YouTube tutorials
WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY
you should check out. Have a look through
I caught up with John Preston from
some back issues of this fine publication too,
Melbourne home brew shop Grain and Grape
and you will find plenty of information.
to put a few questions to him and his team to
In short, the basic process starts as cracked
answer. Here’s what they said:
water (liquor) to produce a porridge in the
What is the typical outlay for someone going all grain?
mash tun. This process is called mashing
If you’re up for it, you can MacGyver together
in. The mash tun is an insulated tank with a
something to all grain brew with for a few
means of straining the grain away from the
tens of dollars. We’ve found that most
sugary liquid called wort (pronounced ‘wert’).
people who do that eventually end up buying
Some brewers use a slotted or perforated
something more fit for purpose. If you want
bottom to the tank, and some use a manifold
to walk out of a shop with a system that is
made from copper or stainless tubing in an
ready to go, $200 will buy you one of our
Esky. The mash sits for about an hour where
electric BIAB starter kits and $450 will get
the enzymes do their magic, then the sugary
you a recirculating, temperature-controlled
liquid is run off into the kettle. At the same
single-vessel system. Of course we’re biased,
time, you rinse the grain with clean water at
but we think that from around $2,700, a
a certain temperature. This process is called
20 litre Speidel Braumeister is a fantastic
sparging. You can gently introduce the sparge
system to learn all-grain brewing on that you
liquor to the top of the grain bed, using a small
can hand down to your grandchildren.
grains are mixed with a specific temperature
SPRING 2021 45
FOOD MATCHING
Take one Fish THE NEW SCHOOL OF SCALE-TOTAIL COOKING AND EATING IN THIS, THE FOLLOW UP TO THE MULTI AWARD-WINNING THE WHOLE FISH COOKBOOK, CHEF JOSH NILAND CONTINUES ON HIS SINGULAR MISSION TO SHOW THAT FISH IS SO MUCH MORE THAN TWO FILLETS HELD TOGETHER BY A HEAD AND TAIL.
W
ith fish being the main source of protein for almost one billion people, and more than 30 per cent of commercial fisheries operating at unsustainable levels, Josh’s priority is to show us how we can maximise the yield from one single fish. He firmly believes fish should not be seen as something we
only take the fillets from – it’s this kind of thinking that will only continue to result in the widespread depletion of our oceans. This philosophy is at the heart of Take One Fish which continues to open our eyes to the potential of just one fish in the kitchen. Using just 15 global varieties of fish, from extra small to extra large, Josh focused his selection on availability, followed by the suitability of these species to explore the widest spectrum of cookery methods. He lists alternatives throughout and implores readers to consider the recipes as a framework for the fish that they have access to locally and, of course, fish that are in their best condition. With 60 scale-to-tail recipes, Josh affirms there are no rules when it comes to cooking fish, only an endlessly inventive world of mind-blowing culinary possibilities.
This is an edited extract from Take One Fish by Josh Niland, published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $55, available in stores nationally. Photography: ©Rob Palmer
www.beerandbrewer.com 50 www.beerandbrewer.com
FOOD MATCHING
CHARCOAL FLOUNDER WITH CELERIAC COLESLAW Serves 4 Ingredients 2 x 500g whole greenback flounder, gutted, scaled 60ml grapeseed oil Sea salt flakes 4 soft white bread rolls Warmed cold butter For the flounder seasoning: 2 tbsp ground fennel seeds 2 tbsp ground black pepper 2 tsp ground cumin seeds 2 tsp ground coriander seeds 1 tsp onion powder 1 tsp garlic powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp cayenne pepper For the coleslaw: 1/4 red cabbage, finely shredded 1 large celeriac, finely sliced 2 carrots, finely sliced 300g mayonnaise 60ml Chardonnay Vinegar Sea salt flakes Black pepper 1 tsp toasted celery seeds
Method 1. For the flounder seasoning, combine all spices and set aside. 2. For the coleslaw, place cabbage, celeriac and carrot in a bowl. Whisk together mayo, vinegar, salt, pepper and celery seeds in another bowl. Pour about half of that over the salad, toss to combine. Slowly add more dressing until desired ratio of coleslaw to dressing is reached. 3. Prepare a hot charcoal grill. Using scissors, snip off any fins around the skirt of the flounder. Brush the fish on both sides with a little oil and season well with salt flakes and the flounder seasoning. 4. Place the flounder on the grill racks, dark side down, and grill for 4 minutes each side. 5. Transfer the fish to a large serving platter and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Serve with the coleslaw, warm bread rolls, cold butter, gravy and fries.
SPRING 2021 51
With a qualified team of in-house engineers and technicians, FB*PROPAK has the scope and depth to supply, customise and install your ideal brewing, packaging and distilling equipment. w ww.fbpropak.c fbpropak.com om
info@fbpropak.com
+61 (3) 9487 1150