GCI Magazine 02 February 2017

GCI1702_cover.indd 1

1/27/17 11:24 AM

NEW

FABRIC & PAPER COVERED COMPACTS

*patent designs

www.cosmopak.com

Untitled-2 1

33 Main Street Port Washington, NY 11050 Tel: 516.767.9119 sales@cosmopak.com

1510 11th Street, Suite 207 Santa Monica, CA 90401 Tel: 310.393.5511 sales@cosmopak.com

1/26/17 10:07 AM

CONTENTS

FEBRUARY 2017 | VOLUME 185, NUMBER 2

30 FEATURES 8 Glansaol: the Next Great Beauty Company?

10 Simplifying Brand Discovery 12 The New Face(s) of Multicultural Beauty The category is poised for its long overdue merger with the general market, but the system is far from perfect.

16 Something in the Air

34

Anti-pollution claims are going global, fundamentally reshaping color cosmetics, hair care and skin care.

BY MARIA CORONADO ROBLES

22 4 Ways Multicultural Skin Care Is Changing

Innovation is ramping up, with a renewed focus on multifunctional products, Ayurvedic ingredients and clear, healthy skin.

BY LISA DOYLE

26 Channel Your Brand’s Inner Beauty

Tomorrow’s successful beauty leaders will need to nimbly navigate the intersections of inner and outer beauty and well-being.

22

BY DIANA ARENA

30 5 Drivers of Multicultural Skin Care

Direct consumer insights highlight the ways in which culture, class and age shape the beauty care choices they make.

BY ELLE MORRIS

34 Designing Brands for the Consumer’s Purchase Journey

How to build an omnichannel brand around how consumers really shop.

BY ETHELBERT WILLIAMS

16 www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 1

Contents 1

1/27/17 11:32 AM

CONTENTS EDITORIAL

Director Editor in Chief Research Analyst Assistant Editors

Digital/Social Media Editor

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com Savannah Saunders | ssaunders@allured.com Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com Lisa Schryver | 1-630-344-6068/lschryver@allured.com Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Fragrance Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

12

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director Linda Schmitt Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan Marketing Assistant Alyssa Howard Customer Service 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN

DEPARTMENTS

Graphic Design Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

Lisa Hede Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE

4 Spark: Beauty, Blended

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

6 Markets & Trends 10 Events 38 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 44 Hair 48 Cosmetics 52 Bath/Body/Fragrance

RESOURCES 54 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index

Partner & President Partner & CEO Controller Group Show Director Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Janet Ludwig George Fox Linda Getner Sandy Chapin Rose Southard Maria Romero

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com

Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Skin Inc. magazine Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Northern California Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Southeast Spa Conference and Expo Perfumer & Flavorist magazine World Perfumery Congress Flavorcon

Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States. All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published eleven times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June, July/ Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 601882403 USA. Copyright 2017. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA.

@GCI_Magazine

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

2 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_TOC-Masthead_fcx.indd 2

1/27/17 11:32 AM

Untitled-5 1

4/13/16 9:21 AM

SPARK

| BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

Beauty, Blended

W JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

ADA POLLA

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, Ph.D.

A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO

R4 Innovations

CRISTINA SAMUELS

Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

e’ve dedicated issues to multicultural beauty before, as with our May 2016 edition.

And we’ve returned to the theme this month, with an exploration of multifunctional multicultural products (Page 22), skin aging across ethnic groups (Page 32) and the future of the category as a whole (Page 12). But this will be our last multicultural beauty issue at Global Cosmetic Industry.

No, we won’t stop covering textured hair or cosmetics designed for a wide array of skin tones or the ways in which demographic shifts and behaviors are reshaping the industry.

These are critical trends that are fundamentally shaking up the general beauty care market. Which is precisely why they must be included in the wider continuum of our content. Every month.

In a blunt 2016 blog post, Bevel/Walker & Co. founder Tristan Walker wrote, “Remember, we started this [brand] to destroy the concept of the ‘ethnic aisle’ at retail. We wanted to elevate the experience for consumers while other brands remained complacent. This matters to us.”

It matters to us, too. So let’s say goodbye to the “multicultural issue” and hello to truly blended beauty.

See you next month.

Follow us on Twitter @GCI_Magazine

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER Sign up to receive daily news, insights and trends

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

4 Spark Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Spark_fcx.indd 4

1/27/17 11:33 AM

Elation

Extend your Personal Care line For manufacturing of your Cosmetic Care or Beauty Care brand 631-952-0100 info@usnonwovens.com

Sales Force Expansion: Please forward résumé in confidence to hr@usnonwovens.com

© 2017 U.S. Nonwovens Corp. Made in USA with Pride logo™, Wind Energy logo™, Artesian Glacial Aquifer Water logo™, and Free Of logo™ are trademarks of U.S. Nonwovens Corp. All rights reserved. The UL Logo is a trademark of UL LLC. All rights reserved. 2337 0217

Untitled-2 1

1/26/17 10:08 AM

MARKETS & TRENDS Beauty Deal Tracker Living Proof > Unilever Acquisition price: undisclosed Strategy: Boost Unilever’s prestige beauty holdings, which include Dermalogica, Kate Somerville, Murad and REN.

Younique > Coty Price: $600 million for a 60% stake in Younique Strategy: Boost Coty’s digital direct-toconsumer sales

CeraVe, AcneFree and Ambi > L’Oréal Price: $1.3 billion in cash Acquired brands’ revenue: $168 million Strategy: Boost L’Oréal’s skin care holdings, particularly in dermocosmetics and expertbacked skin care.

Partech International Ventures > L’Oréal Partnership terms: undisclosed Strategy: Speed up acquisitions of digital startups.

Sabon > Groupe Rocher Price: ~$130 million for a greater than 50% stake Sabon 2015 sales: €2 billion

MatchCo > Shiseido Acquisition price: undisclosed Strategy: Leverage the MatchCo mobile app to boost on-demand customization of cosmetics, improve tech for skin assessment/​ analysis, increase direct marketing to consumers and gather consumer insights to enhance the effectiveness of marketing.

Milk Makeup > Main Post Partners Investment terms: undisclosed Strategy: Quadruple Milk’s door count in 2017 and expand into Canada.

Le Couvent Des Minimes > HLD Group and Didier Tabary Seller: L’Occitane International Terms: undisclosed Strategy: L’Occitane to refocus on core brands, including L’Occitane en Provence, L’Occitane au Brésil, Melvita and Erborian.

Moana Skincare and Čuvget > Aqua Bio Technology ASA Distribution agreement terms: undisclosed Strategy: Enhance Aqua Bio Technology’s skin care offerings around the world, including Europe and the Middle East (Moana), and Europe, the Middle East and Africa (Čuvget).

6 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Markets&Trends_fcx.indd 6

1/27/17 11:38 AM

w

Beauty: By the Numbers* 21%: portion of surveyed consumers who said they would actively choose brands if they made sustainability credentials clearer on packaging and in marketing (Unilever) 88%: portion of Indian consumers that said they would feel better about buying products that are sustainably produced, compared to those in Turkey (85%), the United States (78%) and the United Kingdom (53%) (Unilever) 2025: year by which Unilever has pledged to make all of its packaging fully reusable, recyclable or compostable (Unilever) 100: number of P&G manufacturing sites that will eliminate all manufacturing waste by 2020 (P&G) 60%: portion of U.S. consumers (63% of women, 54% of men) that shop at least two months ahead for special occasions (The Body Shop) 55%: portion of women who reported wanting their significant other to opt for the clean shaven look in 2017 (Braun) 68: number of stores, out of 730, that Macy’s is actively closing (previously announced) (Macy’s) n

$25 billion: value of the global organic personal care market, by 2025 (Research and Markets) 35%: 2015-2016 year-over-year growth in brow product sales, compared to face products (33%), masks (22%), lip color (21%) and fragrance/flanker scents (2%/18%) (NPD Group) 70,197,325: social media video views achieved by Mac, the top micro-influencer brand, compared to Sigma Beauty (61,346,231 video views) and Nyx (57,326,648 video views) (Octoly) 252 million: total engagement of Zoella, Zefr’s top 2016 beauty influencer (Zefr) $3 billion: value of Revlon following its Elizabeth Arden acquisition (Revlon) $65-$75 million: cost of integration restructuring between Revlon and Elizabeth Arden through 2020 (Revlon) 33%: portion of consumers that choose to buy from brands that they believe are doing social or environmental good (Unilever) *www.npd.com, www.octoly.com, zefr.com, www.revlon.com, www.unilever.com, www.pg.com, www.thebodyshop.com, www.braun.com, www.macys.comw

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Markets&Trends_fcx.indd 7

Markets & Trends 7

1/27/17 11:38 AM

MARKETS & TRENDS

Glansaol: the Next Great Beauty Company?

An iconic brand of prestige baked color cosmetics. A skin care and color cosmetic upstart that co-creates products with its consumers and offers beauty box subscriptions. A premium natural skin care brand inspired by a crippling spinal cord injury. What do they have in common?

All three were founded by fearless entrepreneurs—Laura Geller (Laura Geller), Jane Park (Julep) and Francesco Clark (Clark’s Botanicals)—and all three made up the inaugural acquisitions of a new prestige beauty and personal care company, Glansaol (pronounced glan-sale).* Founded by Alan T. Ennis, former president and CEO of Revlon Inc., and Warburg Pincus, a global private equity firm, Glansaol is aiming to be the “next great beauty company.”

Recently, Global Cosmetic Industry recently spoke with Martine Williamson, CMO and EVP of Glansaol, about the business, its brands and what’s next for this emerging beauty player.

A Viable Alternative Ennis and his executive team (see Glansaol Leadership Team) are building a company that will “live on,” said Williamson, noting that Glansaol is not looking to grow toward an eventual acquisition. Instead, the organization is seeking to create a viable alternative for founders of brands of various scales.

Glansaol will offer a “cozy,” non-corporate environment for entrepreneurs, said Williamson. She added that the company isn’t looking to amass dozens of brands, but rather to curate a limited portfolio that provides each property with sufficient attention.

What Glansaol Looks for in a Brand Among its initial acquisitions, Glansaol has amassed complementary expertise in naturals, color cosmetics and skin care. Ennis, Williamson and the rest of the leadership team spent much of 2016 looking for a suite of brands that would fit together without competing. Glansaol was *According to a WWD report, the three brands have a combined revenue of about $100 million; www.wwd.com

particularly interested in brands with emotional stories, passionate founders, high-quality products and unique positions in the market.

The company’s original trio of acquisitions are at various stages of development and feature different price points and consumer profiles. For instance, Clark’s Botanicals (founded 2008) offers expertise in quality naturals, while Laura Geller (founded 1993) appeals to consumers aged 35-plus and Julep (founded 2007) skews in a younger, more playful direction.

What Brands Look for from Glansaol Every brand owner or founder has their reasons for making the acquisition plunge, of course, but in general terms Glansaol has offered each brand founder an opportunity to continue operating their business with their vision. Laura Geller, founder of Laura Geller, has continued in her role

GLANSAOL LEADERSHIP TEAM • • • • • •

Alan T. Ennis, president and CEO, Glansaol Martine Williamson, CMO and EVP, Glansaol Elana Drell-Szyfer, CEO, Laura Geller, and SVP, Glansaol Laura Geller, founder, Laura Geller, and SVP, Glansaol Jane Park, founder and CEO, Julep, and SVP, Glansaol Francesco Clark, founder and CEO, Clark’s Botanicals

8 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Markets&Trends_fcx.indd 8

1/27/17 11:38 AM

w

and taken an SVP position with Glansaol. Jane Park, founder and CEO of Julep, has also taken an SVP role with Glansaol.

Meanwhile, Francesco Clark remains founder and CEO of Clark’s Botanicals.

Williamson describes Ennis as “a transparent person” who has built a collaborative and open team that remains true to its entrepreneurial roots. Under Ennis’ leadership, Glansaol will provide each brand with operational, retail and supply chain expertise, without meddling in brand DNA, thus ensuring both growth and continued brand uniqueness.

While brands will operate separately with different management, each is represented on the Glansaol leadership team, which will meet regularly to mine insights from operational staff and brand leaders. Those meetings will generate new ideas, offer problem solving insights and best practices, and provide an opportunity to review acquisition opportunities.

What’s Next Glansaol’s leadership has mapped out a five-year plan, said Williamson, which includes the further development of its complementary portfolio. She said the company expects to remain relatively small while seeking out growth via acquisitions that offer access to new channels and other opportunities. The goal: to be a viable competitor for other strategic beauty players by representing an acquisition alternative for founders.

As Williamson said, “It’s about time there’s something new and unique [in beauty] to shake things up.” n

Who Will Glansaol Buy Next?

Glansaol currently has no plans to launch brands under its own banner, according to Williamson. Instead, the company is focused on further complementary acquisitions, which could include the natural segment, hair care, body care and clinical skin care.

As always, Glansaol will seek out those brands with unique positioning and strong brand founders.

Detox 2017

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Markets&Trends_fcx.indd 9

Night cream

Exfoliators

Facial masks

40%

50%

46%

44% Fewer fine lines and wrinkles

50%

Smoother skin

67% Fewer fine lines and wrinkles

76%

Smoother skin

78%

Healthier skin

Clarins Booster Detox is one of many recent beauty launches feeding consumers’ desire for renewal.

Brighter skin tone

81%

60%

Men’s preferred skin detoxers results (multiple replies)

Healthier skin

Women’s preferred skin detoxers results (multiple replies)

70% 70%

Moisturizers

62%

Night cream

74%

Exfoliators

72%

Facial masks

84%

Men’s preferred skin detoxers (multiple replies)

Brighter skin tone

Women’s preferred skin detoxers (multiple replies)

Moisturizers

The Benchmarking Company (TBC; www.benchmarkingcompany.com) recently surveyed 6,322 females and 178 males over the age of 18 about their detoxing goals for the new year. TBC found that 58% of women and 36% of men want to take better care of their skin.

Markets & Trends 9

1/27/17 11:38 AM

MARKETS & TRENDS

Simplifying Brand Discovery Beauty retailers need to deliver new and unique brands to differentiate, create consumer excitement and, ultimately, grow. But with untold numbers of brands launching every year—each with its own positioning, ingredient list, wholesale minimums and other specifications—connecting the right brands to the right retailers can be daunting.

Similar in concept, if not execution, to KindEye***, San Francisco-based RangeMe (www.rangeme.com) “streamlines new product discovery between product suppliers and retailers.” The platform’s latest partner is Sephora, which will be able to simplify the inbound product submission process via this digital portal.

Nicky Jackson, founder and CEO of RangeMe, spent most of her career in the food and beverage industry and once struggled to launch her own skin care brand. Her combined experiences taught her that the key pain points included emerging brand discovery at scale and, for the brands, getting a foot in the door with key retailers.

The RangeMe system sidesteps agents and distributors, and eliminates the volume of snail mail sample submissions, PowerPoint decks and sporadic trade show attendance that mark the conventional beauty brand discovery process. Jackson believes this digital approach will simplify discovery and prevent opportunities from falling through the cracks for both retailers and brands. ***Kind Eye (www.kind-eye.com) provides a portal that connects independent ethical beauty care brands and retailers, while also allowing consumers to search for and purchase products.

Sephora’s RangeMe portal.

Nicky Jackson, founder and CEO, RangeMe.

RangeMe, which features Yes To co-founder Ido Leffler as chairman of the board, comprises a set proposal format for all brands, which includes information such as pricing, current distribution, social media stats, ingredient lists, certifications, marketing plans and founder videos. Retailers can message suppliers within the platform to explore potential partnerships.

Brands can exclude certain buyers to remove duplicates.

Retailers, meanwhile, can narrow their searches to specific categories such as clinical skin care and apply filters to create narrow search parameters such as brands that have no current distribution, those that have natural or organic status, or those that originate from specific countries.

Jackson noted that the RangeMe system can be embedded in retailer buyers’ workflow, allowing them to seek out innovation year-round. Retailers can even recruit prospective suppliers to the RangeMe platform. n

Trends, insights and breaking news every business day: www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 10 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Markets&Trends_fcx.indd 10

1/27/17 11:38 AM

a perfect combination A blend of the most innovative ingredients and R&D solutions, the leading experts and a high-level education programme, perfectly balanced to boost the cosmetics industry and shape its future.

Create opportunities at the leading global business event for personal care ingredients

Top reasons to attend: Travel partner

Explore the latest trends at the global Launchpad of the personal care industry Network with 700+ ingredient suppliers, fragrance houses, laboratory & regulatory professionals Test out the latest product innovations with a wide selection of interactive features

Organised by:

Register and learn more at in-cosmetics.com Untitled-2 1

12/20/16 2:04 PM

FULL-SPECTRUM BEAUTY

The New Face(s) of Multicultural Beauty The category is poised for its long overdue merger with the general market, but the system is far from perfect.

“M

butter London has introduced a range of nail foundations in a variety of shades for every skin tone.

ajor beauty companies have long relegated health and beauty needs of people of color to niche markets. As a result, many companies addressing the needs of people of color are small businesses, with little funding or media reach to generate mass interest.” So begins the mission statement of The Hues Company, which offers its own HuesBoxa beauty subscription and a full-scale community created to connect people of color interested in all things health and beauty.

The Hues Company’s manifesto highlights the promise and challenges www.huesbox.com

a

@GCI_Magazine 12

Full-Spectrum Beauty

GCI1702_Euromonitor_fcx.indd 12

facebook.com/gcimagazine

of multicultural beauty, which is finally poised for a long-overdue merger with the broader beauty care industry. The question is: which brands will win and which will fall by the wayside?

A perennial complaint, highlighted

by The Hues Company statement, is the inability of consumers of color to locate and access brands that meet their specific needs. What brands are readily available tend to be ostracized to the dreaded “ethnic aisle” (more on that later), but all too often multicultural and textured hair consumers are left with less-than-ideal product options.

To illustrate, Mintelb has reported that about 20% of U.S. black consumers www.mintel.com

b

Global Cosmetic Industry

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media.

Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

1/27/17 11:39 AM

w

have difficulty finding the right hair care products for their desired style, with 19% purchasing more than one product in a fruitless attempt to locate the right fit.

Trend-driven, High-growth Many of these underserved consumers represent significant growth opportunities for the beauty care industry. For instance, according to figures offered by Mintel, U.S. Hispanic beauty sales grew 11% between 2011 and 2016, with 2016 sales totaling $3.4 billion.

Meanwhile, U.S. black hair care (shampoo, conditioner, styling relaxers, etc.) is projected to grow from $2.5 billion (2016) to a value of between $2.8 billion and $3 billion by 2021.

Hispanic women are trend-driven and more likely than all other demographics to experiment with new beauty products: 38% occasionally, and 14% frequently.

Eighteen percent of Hispanic consumers aged 18-34 experiment with new products frequently; 36% experiment occasionally.

U.S. Hispanic women are heavy users of social media and pick up trends from YouTube influencers, according to Mintel data. These consumers often buy products displayed in English language media (21%) and Spanish language media (17%).

Sephora Collection has introduced a wide range of foundation shades for an array of skin tones, which was praised in The New York Times.

“As multicultural beauty becomes more mainstream, approaches and brand strategies must evolve in parallel,” Sarah Jindal, Mintel’s senior innovation and insights analyst (beauty personal care), wrote last year. And they have, by launching new SKUs and pursuing acquisitions relevant to the multicultural consumer, such as L’Oréal’s purchase of Ambi, which distributes skin care products formulated for multicultural consumers.

Nude, Redefined “Nude” products, from underwear to cosmetics, have traditionally catered primarily to the Caucasian skin tone. No longer.

“Expanding shade ranges for existing product lines is an important and incremental approach to gaining visibility within the multicultural community,” Jindal noted in her analysis.

General market lipstick, foundation and other makeup brands traditionally produced five to six shades. Today, they may feature 25 or more variants.

It isn’t surprising, then, that The Estée Lauder Companies acquired Becca Cosmetics last year. Becca’s offerings of primers, concealers, foundations, blushes and highlighters are available in a wide range of complexions and skin tones. An official Estée Lauder release noted, “Most of the brand’s foundations are available in up to 20 shades, with half designed for medium to deep tones and half designed for light to medium tones.”

Similarly, during the nude fingernail craze of 2016, brands such as butter London released diverse ranges of nail foundation, and Sephora Collection launched a Matte Perfection Powder Foundation in 35 complexion tones, ensuring a shade for all.

The End of “Ethnic” Hair Care Multicultural consumers are increasingly demanding that brands organize around specific textures and challenges, rather than demographics, as shown in a 2016 TextureMedia study.c Indeed, as general market brands get into the mutlicultural hair care space, they are doing just that. For instance, as In 2004, when Wendi Levy (left) and Kim Etheredge launched Mixed Chicks, a multicultural hair care line, they found they could only get meetings with retailers’ ethnic departments. www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Euromonitor_fcx.indd 13

https://corp.naturallycurly.com/

c

Full-Spectrum Beauty 13

1/27/17 11:39 AM

FULL-SPECTRUM BEAUTY

The Mixed Chicks range has evolved along with the textured hair category; pictured are its recent launches.

Jindal pointed out, Shea Moisture, one of the fastest-growing hair care brands, has successfully transitioned from the socalled “ethnic” aisle to general market hair care, while Pantene has launched several products for textured hair.

Meanwhile, more products are being introduced to allow consumers to care for their hair at home, rather than going to professionals. According to Mintel, 39% of black consumers use some type of chemical treatment at home, led by relaxers (27%) and colors (survey: April 2016). At the same time, the natural look is on the rise, meaning many black consumers use gentle, naturally derived deep conditioners at home.

A Revolt in the Beauty Aisle When Tristan Walker, founder of the Bevel brand and its Walker & Co. parent, discovered that Bevel had won the Dieline “Outstanding Achievement” award for package design last year, he blogged:d “Remember, we started this to destroy the concept of the ‘ethnic aisle’ at retail.

We wanted to elevate the experience for consumers while other brands remained complacent.”

Walker’s sentiments echo the frustrations of multicultural consumers and brands, both of which have spent decades as afterthoughts, isolated within poorly maintained aisles or subsections of aisles. http://justtristan.com/

d

A 2016 Racked story by Beth Shapouri, “The Way We Buy Beauty Now,”e quoted Shepherd Laughlin of J. Walter Thompson: “We’re seeing a revolt in the beauty aisle by consumers who don’t understand why ‘multicultural’ products are often sold on separate shelves, and this reflects changing demographics. Going forward, any brand is going to have to create products for all types of hair and skin in order to be considered a mainstream brand.”

Multicultural Brands Still Feeling the Squeeze In 2004, when Wendi Levy and Kim Etheredge launched Mixed Chicks, a multicultural hair care line, they found they could only get meetings with retailers’ ethnic departments. Levy recently explained that even beauty trade shows are similarly segmented.

While Shea Moisture has helped break down some of the barriers between the ethnic and general market beauty aisles because of its sheer size, the situation has not changed nearly as much for smaller brands like Mixed Chicks, which are still often segmented by demographic, rather than texture. Levy noted that the problem is particularly acute for connecting with Caucasian women seeking textured hair solutions.

It’s critical that beauty aisles not be separated, she continued, stressing that e

www.racked.com

hair care should ideally be presented as a continuum of texture. Levy pointed out that multicultural beauty is outpacing the growth of the general market, with multiethnic consumers spending more than any other consumer subset.

By overcrowding more multicultural brands into a limited space, retailers are creating consumer confusion, Levy warned, exacerbating the existing problem for brands and their customers.

The grocery channel is coming around to the blended beauty concept faster than its counterparts, Levy said, with mass retail lagging behind.

Surratt Beauty’s Surreal Skin Foundation Wand provides shades for a wide array of skin tones.

14 Full-Spectrum Beauty Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 w

GCI1702_Euromonitor_fcx.indd 14

1/27/17 11:39 AM

“Remember, we started this [Bevel brand] to destroy the concept of the ‘ethnic aisle’ at retail,” said Tristan Walker, founder of Bevel and its Walker & Co. parent.

The challenge is similar in the ecommerce side of the business, she continued, where keywords are king. If the retailers don’t understand the proper terminology for the textured hair segment, the consumer’s path to purchase is obscured. Here, too, something needs to change.

The Way to Better Hair Despite the retail challenges, Mixed Chicks has evolved its range to meet the specific needs of the textured hair category. The brand began with products that defrizzed and defined textured hair. Later, Mixed Chicks added leave-in conditioner and a straightening serum free of harsh ingredients, as well as a custom flat iron. This year, Mixed Chicks is rolling out six new styling products, including Coil, Kink & Curl Styling Cream.

To engage consumers directly, Mixed Chicks has collaborated with, though not paid, social media influencers to generate consumer interest. Levy noted that there is a distinct learning curve for older brands in the social media space and that it requires founders to be more interactive than they have been, traditionally.

Mixed Chicks is also introducing educational resources for consumers, including instructional videos, to allay fears over ingredients and connect the right consumer to the right products.

Levy explained that many consumers don’t know what their hair is truly capable of, or whether their current hair care regime is in fact harmful. In the end, Levy said, she hoped to help women realize that, with the right products and rituals, they could find their way to better hair. n

SUBSCRIBE TO GCI’s NEWSLETTER

for the latest news and launches.

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Euromonitor_fcx.indd 15

Full-Spectrum Beauty 15

1/27/17 11:39 AM

BEAUTY CLAIMS

∑ Antipollution awareness is expanding across Asia Pacific and, to an extent, the West. ∑ While Asian consumers in highly polluted countries are seeking a range of products to meet their needs, Western consumers continue to want a limited ritual comprising multifunctional products. ∑ From natural antioxidants to novel metal-chelating ingredients, suppliers and brands are delivering a wide array of unique antipollution formulations for consumers in every market.

@GCI_Magazine

SOMETHING IN Anti-pollution claims are going global, fundamentally reshaping color cosmetics, hair care and skin care.

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

16 Beauty Claims Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media. w

GCI1702_Robles_fcx.indd 16

1/27/17 11:41 AM

| BY MARIA CORONADO ROBLES, Research Associate, Ingredients, Euromonitor

A

nti-pollution cosmetics, a wellestablished trend in Asia Pacific due to the region’s dangerously high levels of air contaminants, is now going global, with Western consumers looking for cosmetics with benefits that not only fight the signs of aging but also protect against environmental threats. Growing middle class expansion in the East and rising urban pollution awareness in the West will shape the purchasing patterns of anti-pollution products over the coming years. This translates into big worldwide opportunities for leading cosmetic brands and ingredients manufacturers.

G IN THE AIR Although there is an increasing number of anti-pollution ingredients reaching the market, the key for success is to adopt an effective differentiation strategy.

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Robles_fcx.indd 17

Pollution = Premature Aging Urban pollution—especially particulate matter with sizes of about 2.5 microns (PM2.5) and 10 microns (PM10)—seems to be one of the main threats to skin health. These fine particles are coated with polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), heavy metals and other contaminants, which, in contact with the skin and hair, are capable of penetrating deeper layers, inducing collagen and elastin breakdown and the release of free radicals.

Pollutants can cause cellular damage, dryness, inflammation and pigmentation, which are strong signs of premature skin aging.

In fact, research conducted by L’Oréal pointed out the link between atmospheric pollution and premature skin aging, especially in people with sensitive skin (www.loreal.com). According to the study, people living in very populous cities have lower levels of vitamin E and squalene in sebum compared to those living in rural areas.

Beauty Claims 17

1/27/17 11:41 AM

BEAUTY CLAIMS

F-1. Particulate matter mean annual exposure in selected countries

Source: Euromonitor International, Natural Resources; PM10 Emissions: Euromonitor International from EEA, Eurostat, OECD: PM 2.5 from World Bank

Cities in Asia Pacific, such as Shanghai and Beijing in China, New Delhi and Bangalore in India, and Karachi in Pakistan, are on the list of the most polluted cities in the world. According to the World Health Organization, more than 99% of the urban population in China, India and Pakistan are regularly exposed to particulate matter with sizes of about 2.5 microns (PM2.5) at concentrations higher than those recommended.

Antipollution’s Top Growth Areas 1. Asia It’s no surprise that China offers the greatest opportunities for anti-pollution ingredients in Asia Pacific, followed by India and Pakistan.

2. Natural Ingredients and Vitamins Plant extracts and vitamins are the ingredients with the greatest growth potential, but demand for other antioxidant ingredients, such as niacinamide and ascorbic acid, is also expected to grow.

Demand for vitamins in China is forecasted

to grow in shampoos, sun protection and facial moisturizer formulations.

3. Skin, Sun and Hair Care Although facial skin care products such as moisturizers, masks, anti-agers and cleansers are still the most likely categories to carry anti-pollution ingredients, hair and sun care products are gaining momentum, especially in China and India.

Facial masks, a key beauty product for most Chinese women, are expected to drive the growth in demand for plant extracts in Asia Pacific over the 2015–2020 forecast period, while other products, such as facial moisturizers, shampoos and facial cleansers, will also show opportunities for plant extracts.

In India, shampoos and facial moisturizers are expected to lead the growth in demand for plant extracts, while demand for vitamins is expected to grow in sun protection and shampoos in the next five years.

Pakistan shows the greatest growth potential for vitamins in shampoo formulations in the 2015–2020 forecast period, while demand for plant extracts is expected to increase in moisturizer formulations in the same period.

Anti-pollution claims initially carried by facial skin products such as Lancôme City Miracle (pictured), REN Flash Defence Anti-Pollution Mist and Olay Total Effects are now increasingly advertised in skin cleansers, sun protection, hair care products and color cosmetics.

18 Beauty Claims Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 w

GCI1702_Robles_fcx.indd 18

1/27/17 11:41 AM

Differentiating Antipollution Products Opportunities for new antipollution products differ between East and West.

In the most polluted Eastern countries, such as China, demand for specific, singlepurpose anti-pollution products, such as face masks containing plant extracts, is expected. In Western countries, consumers often use fewer beauty products, so demand for multifunctional beauty care with antipollution claims will be on the rise.

Although there is an increasing number of anti-pollution ingredients reaching the market, the key for success is to adopt a differentiation strategy from other cosmetics products that also contain antioxidants in their formulations.

Chinese brands such as Hua Niang or Fumakilla market their products with more specific antipollution claims, such as anti-PM2.5, to attract consumer attention. This clever strategy has inspired international companies such as Pond’s, which has jumped on the PM2.5

Henkel’s Schwarzkopf Extra Care Purify and Protect is a hair care range specially designed for Asia.

bandwagon, to carry this claim on the labels of its Pure White cleansing line.

Not all products claiming to fight the effects of pollution are equally effective, and the increasing number of educated and concerned consumers will demand scientific proof to back up anti-pollution claims.

More research to understand the effects of pollution on skin over time, as well as the development of standardized tests similar to those in place for SPF values, are required to validate and quantify the product efficacy. This will allow consumers to have a better understanding

F-2. Absolute volume growth forecast for anti-pollution ingredients in selected countries in Asia Pacific (2015–2020)

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Robles_fcx.indd 19

Beauty Claims 19

1/27/17 11:41 AM

BEAUTY CLAIMS

about which products offer the best environmental protection.

Anti-pollution On the Ingredient Label

Multifaceted Defense on the Shelf

Leading global cosmetics companies are turning to a full spectrum of antipollution ingredients. Plant extracts, vitamins and antioxidant complexes are among the most popular antipollution ingredients on the market, driven by the growing demand for natural ingredients in cosmetics.

The high levels of air pollution in Asia inevitably led to the launch of antipollution cosmetics specially designed for the market.

Anti-pollution claims initially carried by facial skin products such as Lancôme City Miracle, Ren Flash Defence Anti-Pollution Mist and Olay Total Effects are now increasingly advertised in skin cleansers, sun protection, hair care products and color cosmetics.

Sun protection products such as Clarins UV Plus Anti-Pollution SPF 50, Shiseido UV Urban Environment Protection SPF 40 and Vichy UV Pro Secure Anti UV Anti-Pollutant SPF 50 PA are now addressing both pollution and UV protection.

Besides sun protection, brands are now marketing cleansing products that claim to be able to remove pollutants from the skin, such as Tata Harper’s purifying cleanser or Ponds’ men’s Pollution-Out All-in-One Deep Cleanser.

Other antipollution products gaining traction in the market are standard shampoos and color cosmetics. In February 2016, Henkel launched its Schwarzkopf Extra Care Purify and Protect, a hair care range of products specially designed for Asia, while Bourjois launched its City Radiance foundation back in January of that year.

In order to take advantage of the new anti-pollution wave, cosmetics brands are launching entire product lines dedicated to combatting air pollution, including Sampar’s Smart Skin in the City, Estée Lauder’s Clinique City Block and Unilever’s Pond’s Pure White Cleansing.

More recent launches touting antipollution claims include L’Occitane Shea Comforting Foaming Cleanser, Sunday Riley C.E.O. C + E Antioxidant Protect + Repair Moisturizer, Murad City Skin Overnight Detox Moisturizer, Drybar Double Standard Cleansing + Conditioning Foam, Clarins Multi Active Day Cream, Ren Pollution Proof Kit and Nars Smooth & Protect Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Sunscreen.

Ingredient manufacturers are increasingly looking for novel ingredients to meet the growing consumer demand for anti-pollution products. In 2016, Silab launched Mitokynil, which is rich in glucomannans, while Sederma commercialized Citystem, comprising natural active ingredients, and Algues et Mer introduced Invincity, which contains brown algae and fucoidans.

Not all products claiming to fight the effects of pollution are equally effective, and the increasing number of educated and concerned consumers will demand scientific proof to back up antipollution claims.

Skin care products can be simply reformulated by adding plant extracts and vitamins to make antipollution claims. For instance, Olay has reformulated its Total Effect with a greater proportion of vitamin E and niacinamide. It is also expanding its Active Botanicals line, which contains two natural anti-pollution ingredients— artichoke extract and snow fungus—from China to Western markets.

Other brands are betting on less traditional ingredients to provide pollution protection. Tula combines antioxidant and probiotic ingredients in its Urban Defence Hydrating Mist, while Lancôme City Miracle and Avon Clinical E-Defence Deep Recovery contain two specific antipollution ingredients— Detoxyl, Silab’s detoxifying and metal chelator agent, which prevents metallic pollutants from sticking to the skin, and thymosin beta-4, a protein that helps to attract healthy cells to areas that have been damaged by pollution.

Olay has reformulated its Total Effect with a greater proportion of vitamin E and niacinamide.

20 Beauty Claims Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 w

GCI1702_Robles_fcx.indd 20

1/27/17 11:41 AM

TripleShield, provided by Incospharm, has strong autophagy-inducing activity to help detoxify skin cells.

A Hybrid Approach

Tula combines antioxidant and probiotic ingredients in its Urban Defence Hydrating Mist.

Other ingredient suppliers are focused on anti-pollution solutions that create a physical barrier between the skin and pollutants. For example, Tri-K recently launched PhytoVTM, and Solabia is now marketing Pollustop.

A more recent innovation is the use of ingredients with advanced anti-pollution

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Robles_fcx.indd 21

properties, such as Pollushield, supplied

by Lipotec, which combines a polymer with metal-chelating properties that prevent the interaction of toxic metals with the skin. EPS White, developed by CoDIF, is a probiotic-derived ingredient that reduces pollution-induced inflammation. Meanwhile, Aquatide-

Although some of these ingredients seem to be very promising, further clinical research is necessary to better understand their effects against pollution. So far, there is no perfect solution or miraculous single ingredient able to provide full protection against pollution. A combination botanical extracts, vitamins and ingredients that creates a physical barrier is likely to be the preferred option by consumers. n

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER Sign up to receive daily news, insights and trends

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

Beauty Claims  21

1/27/17 11:41 AM

FULL-SPECTRUM BEAUTY

∑ All skin types are seeking improvement, including anti-wrinkle appearance, anti-brown blotch appearance, skin repair, aging reversal, moisturization and protection from harsh environmental aggression. ∑ Skin care offers an opportunity to formulate products with crossover multifunctional benefits in hair care, face and body. ∑ Looking forward, the multicultural beauty care space will place less of an emphasis on products for lightening skin tones, and more of an emphasis on a healthy, clear complexion. @GCI_Magazine 22

Full-Spectrum Beauty

GCI1702_Doyle_fcx.indd 22

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media.

Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

1/27/17 11:42 AM

w

4

WAYS

Multicultural Skin Care Is Changing Innovation is ramping up, with a renewed focus on multifunctional products, ayurvedic ingredients and clear, healthy skin.

| BY LISA DOYLE

W

e all know beauty’s more than skin deep— often, it’s culture deep. According to Euromonitor International, skin care continues to be the largest revenue generator in global beauty, dominating key markets of China, Indonesia and North America.a A report published by Allied Market Research (AMR) forecasts that the global skin care products market will reach $179 billion by 2022, with a CAGR of 4.7% from 2017 to 2022.b Face creams, which lead overall revenue in the skin care market, will grow at a CAGR of 4.9% during the same period.

Meanwhile, the U.S. skin care market will reach nearly $11 billion by 2018.c As the skin care market grows, brands are tasked with ensuring consumers’ www.euromonitor.com www.alliedmarketresearch.com c www.marketresearch.com a b

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Doyle_fcx.indd 23

desires are met, along with the skin care needs particular to each demographic.

By maintaining cultural sensitivity with each market and exceeding expectations when it comes to the product, brands are achieving uninterrupted success. Here’s what our experts say is on the horizon for multicultural niche skin care.

1. Ayurvedic Anti-Aging “Differences found in multicultural skin types are normally due to the differences in the levels of factors like stratum corneum compactness, pigmentation levels, desquamation levels, moisturizing factors and photo protection,” said Prakash Purohit, president of Naturich Labs, a Texas-based contract manufacturer.

“However, regardless of their ethnicity or cultural differences, all types of skin would like to see the improvement in factors like anti-wrinkle appearance, anti-brown blotch appearance, skin repair, aging reversal, moisturizing factors and protection from harsh environmental aggression.”

Savvy brands are at the ready, offering products with the right ingredients to achieve the desired results. For instance, Naturich worked with The Chopra Center, the business of renowned thinker Deepak Chopra, to develop its PryaDerm line of skin care catering to multicultural skin needs. These products contain a balanced mix of extracts and actives to achieve the best possible skin; for example, the PryaDerm Rejuvenating Night Crème features ayurvedic herbs of amla, turmeric and haritake, as well as hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate for speeding up skin renewal to refine texture.

2. All-in-One The most popular product in Oregonbased Essential Wholesale & Labs’ line of ethnic skin care is an all-in-one product, Dream Crème, infused with sustainably sourced ingredients.

“This crème relies on the triedand-true powers of shea butter as the key ingredient,” said Val Sanford, Full-Spectrum Beauty 23

1/27/17 11:42 AM

FULL-SPECTRUM BEAUTY

BOXING MATCH The Bonnie Box is getting a makeover. Celebrating three years in business this spring, love, Aunt Bonnie will launch its own brand of products in its latest signature Bonnie Box. According to founder and global CEO Corey Huggins, the bimonthly beauty box will continue to feature cutting edge, premium beauty for darkskinned consumers.

“These products have to be premium positioned, they have to be unique and they have to tell the story in a different way,” said Huggins. “This line is cultural, beautiful and chic global. It’s more of an experience than a beauty box.”

Corey Huggins, CEO and founder of love, Aunt Bonnie.

The love, Aunt Bonnie box.

the company’s vice president of sales and marketing. “Also in the formula are organic acai, organic sunflower and organic aloe working together as antioxidants, conditioning agents, smoothing and soothing agents, maturing skin agents, and processing aids, making it ideal for dry skin and hair. It can improve the appearance of skin’s complexion and increase hair’s glossiness.”

Naturich worked with The Chopra Center, the business of the renowned Deepak Chopra, to develop its PryaDerm line of skin care catering to multicultural skin needs.

Essential Wholesale Labs’ Exquisite Face, Hair & Body Oil is well aligned with this trend.

“Blended with organic pumpkin seed oil, pomegranate oil, cranberry oil and non-GMO vitamin E, this oil is incredible,” said Sanford. “Cleanse, hydrate, style and pamper—this is a great product for natural hair and for dry or maturing skin. This golden oil applies lightly and cleanly, absorbing quickly without leaving any heavy, oily feel.”

4. Brightened, Not Lightened 3. Multifunctional,

by Design

Beyond sun care, Urban Skin Solutions’ most popular products include the Even Tone Cleansing Bar and the Clear Skin Cleansing Bar, both of which exfoliate and even out the skin.

“Skin care is going to tie in with hair care, as hair care products are coming out with skin care properties,” said Corey Huggins, founder and global CEO of love, Aunt Bonnie, a global luxury beauty media platform connecting brands to multicultural audiences. “For the shower, you will see more bars that you can use to wash your face, body and hair.”

Looking forward, multicultural beauty care space will place less of an emphasis on products for lightening skin tones, and more of an emphasis on a healthy, clear complexion.

For example, Charlotte, North Carolinabased Urban Skin Solutions Med Spa, Laser and Weight Loss Center, opened

by Rachel Roff in 2006, offers clinical skin care for darker skin issues, including hyperpigmentation.

She explained, “Sunblock is definitely needed for treating hyperpigmentation

24 Full-Spectrum Beauty Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 w

GCI1702_Doyle_fcx.indd 24

1/27/17 11:42 AM

with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, but many other sun blocks will leave darker skin tone ashy and gray, with a purplish tint. I have spent years working with the formulators in our labs to develop a sunblock that contains zinc oxide but doesn’t negatively affect darker skin.”

Beyond sun care, Urban Skin Solutions’ most popular products include the Even Tone Cleansing Bar and the Clear Skin Cleansing Bar, both of which exfoliate and even out the skin.

“Regardless of the multicultural differences, each type of skin will need to look healthy and smooth,” said Purohit.

“The needs for skin brightening and spot reduction products will continue to increase with the changes in the demographics in the United States and other markets.”

Olga Gracioso, marketing director of Sederma, noted, “In Asia, ‘whitening’ is now considered an impossible ideal [that] doesn’t look healthy. They [the

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Doyle_fcx.indd 25

Regardless of the multicultural differences, each type of skin will need to look healthy and smooth. consumers] prefer an even complexion free from dark spots.”

To this point, Sederma offers Mediatone, a skin tone regulating agent designed to target hyperpigmentation, resulting in a more even and brighter skin tone.

Competition Heating Up As brands and suppliers evolve to offer relevance to consumers, skin care for multicultural consumers will become

increasingly competitive. With brands like Dr. Bronner’s, SheaMoisture, Palmer’s, Ambi and Design Essentials all vying for shoppers’ dollars, the pace of innovation is sure to continue to escalate. n

LISA DOYLE was formerly the associate editor of Global Cosmetic Industry and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.

Full-Spectrum Beauty 25

1/27/17 11:42 AM

BEAUTY INSIDE OUT

CHANNEL YOUR ∑ Beauty is more about how you feel and less about subscribing to social norms in order to feel beautiful. ∑ Savvy brands will find ways to link inner and outer beauty as mutually reinforcing. ∑ Communicating a commitment to inner and outer beauty requires that brands partner with authentic influencers to ensure successful communication.

@GCI_Magazine

|

BRAND’S

INNER

BEAUTY Tomorrow’s successful beauty leaders will need to nimbly navigate the intersections of inner and outer beauty and well-being.

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

26 Beauty Inside Out Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media. w

GCI1702_Arena_fcx.indd 26

1/27/17 12:56 PM

| BY DIANA ARENA, Experticity

T

he definition of beauty is ever-evolving.

Hundreds of years ago, ruffs, corsets, pale skin and wigs were considered by many Europeans to reflect the epitome of beautiful. Since then, we’ve found beauty in crop tops, self tanners, platform shoes, gauchos and everything in between. Today, the pendulum seems to be shifting back toward “au naturel,” especially when it comes to skin care, makeup and consumers’ attitudes.

Getting Real The anti-makeup movement is starting to take over Hollywood, with celebrities like Alicia Keys celebrating makeup-free photo shoots and television appearances, and others jumping on the www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Arena_fcx.indd 27

#iwokeuplikethis Twitter and Instagram bandwagon.

At the same time, politicians are holding court about how to regulate unrealistic body images and promote a healthier self-image for the public. For instance, London mayor Sadiq Khan moved to ban advertisements that portrayed “unhealthy or unrealistic body images” from the city’s public transport. Meanwhile, Unreasonable Women recently launched the Retouchers Accord, an code of ethics and conduct that encouraged authenticity and healthy body images in digital alterations of photos.

Brands are feeling the pressure. Earlier this year, Gucci came under fire for featuring “unhealthily thin” models, with the U.K.’s Advertising Standards Authority ultimately banning the advertisement, calling the fashion brand “irresponsible”

Inner

beauty

is not just a trend.

It is a necessity.

Beauty Inside Out 27

1/27/17 12:56 PM

BEAUTY INSIDE OUT

for promoting it. Elsewhere, Dove’s “Campaign for Real Beauty” focused on “real women whose appearances are outside the stereotypical norms of beauty.”

The brand also created #MyBeautyMySay to elevate women’s achievements above a sheer focus on physical beauty.

This latest trend in the beauty industry reflects the notion that beauty is more about how you feel and less about subscribing to social norms in order to feel beautiful. For consumers, this means there’s a greater emphasis placed not only on what you put on your body, but also in it, in order to look and, more importantly, feel beautiful.

Building Trust Another significant social trend— suspicion of traditional advertising—is creating headwinds for brands in delivering a message of inner beauty and wellness directly to consumers. The silver

lining in this phenomenon is that these same consumers are looking increasingly to people they trust—from beauty experts to friends to other “deputized consumersat-large”—for cues to shape their perceptions and buying behavior.

In order for brands to leverage these converging trends into lasting relationships of trust with a growing, loyal consumer base, they need to deliver messages that resonate via people consumers like and trust.

Inside Out One of the messages that brands can deliver through trusted brand messengers is the value of targeted daily health and beauty routines. This requires specific knowledge of which products are right for specific individuals’ skin, hair and body type, as well as what is appropriate for the climate and atmosphere where a given person lives.

These companion trends also provide opportunities for brands with the sophistication to link inner beauty with nutrition, lifestyle and eating habits.

Taking care of the inner self can create effects that outer beauty products alone can never match. For those committed to beauty from the inside out, simple daily attention to nutrition and activity will work wonders. Sophisticated products, through effective messaging, can be well positioned as something that cultivates both inner beauty and its outward manifestation.

Savvy brands will find ways to link inner and outer beauty as mutually reinforcing. For example, they will find effective ways to encourage proactive health maintenance—physical, mental and emotional. There will be a growing convergence of this type of messaging not only from beauty companies, but also from health and nutrition brands. Brands

a t e s h

There will be a growing convergence of inner and outer wellbeing from beauty, health and nutrition brands, as seen with brands such as skinade and Moon Juice.

p m t b h t E o B J “ s d b r

A

p i t

28 Beauty Inside Out Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 w

GCI1702_Arena_fcx.indd 28

1/27/17 12:56 PM

Kickboxer Heather Hardy was featured in a recent Dove campaign, #MyBeautyMySay, which focused on celebrating women “on her terms.”

across the product spectrum will link their offerings to the ever-attractive and empowering effects of self-confidence, as something essential that no makeup or hairstyle can approximate.

For example, marketing efforts for a product that helps the skin retain more moisture can simultaneously celebrate the customers’ decision to hydrate their bodies with sufficient fluid and emphasize how the product reinforces and enhances the customer’s commitment to health.

Examples of brands pursuing this type of strategy include Hum Nutrition’s Raw Beauty Green Superfood Powder; Moon Juice’s Monster Moon, which reportedly “nourishes the skin, boosts energy and supports the thyroid”; skinade’s collagen drink; and Fountain’s “beauty molecule” beauty supplement, which contains resveratrol.

Authenticity As inner beauty continues to expand its place as one of the biggest emerging trends in fashion and beauty, brands will need to clearly—and sincerely—outline the www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Arena_fcx.indd 29

importance of inner and outer beauty with their products and missions.

Consumers’ trust can be tenuous and fragile; they need to believe that a brand or product is completely committed to their personal well-being—inner beauty as much as outer. Connecting with these consumers through influencers they can believe in cements relationships of trust between brands and consumers.

What Is Beauty?

Inner beauty is not just a trend. It is a necessity. And it should be a reflection of a rich, fulfilling inner life and positive habits of body and mind, not just something cosmetic. As beauty brands and experts distance themselves from unhealthy methods of presenting beauty, it will be fascinating to see how ideas of inner and outer beauty evolve to inform the conversation about what beauty truly is. n SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER Sign up to receive daily news, insights and trends

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

Beauty Inside Out 29

1/27/17 12:56 PM

FULL-SPECTRUM BEAUTY

∑ Skin tone can impact the ways in which people view aging. ∑ Social and economic status can also drive consumers’ skin care regimen, as well as the age at which they get serious about damage prevention and reversal. ∑ As North America becomes increasingly diverse and evolving technology continues to facilitate the distribution of information from cultures around the world, North American beauty routines will become even more individualized. @GCI_Magazine 30

Full-Spectrum Beauty

GCI1702_Morris_fcx.indd 30

5

Drivers of Multicultural Skin Care

Direct consumer insights highlight the ways in which culture, class and age shape the beauty care choices they make.

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media.

Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

1/27/17 12:59 PM

w

| BY ELLE MORRIS, Consultant, The Clientist

N

orth American women are a blended palette of races, cultures and traditions. Beauty regimens in the region are as diverse as the women themselves, with skin tone, cultural heritage, socioeco­ nomics and age all part of the equation.

As a fair-skinned Latina myself, protecting my alabaster-skinned Cuban grandmother’s European heritage was important to my maternal family and sunscreen was heavily endorsed from a young age. Conversely, my Latina friends with darker skin tones didn’t become concerned with anti-aging regimens or sun-damage until they were at least 40.

1. It’s All about Tone

“As a very fair-skinned Latina who easily burns and attracts freckles/​brown spots, first, I stay away from the sun. I wear sunscreen religiously—even if it’s cloudy out. I definitely invest time in moisturizer and I have a regimen for cleaning my face, which includes the use

Women with fair skin are often hyperconscious about aging. The more fair the skin tone, the more conscious they seem to be. Women with highly fair skin often see no benefit in tanning, so they seek products that prevent sunburn and hydrate skin. www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Morris_fcx.indd 31

of a cleansing device. I also love to get facials. I wish I could get them monthly.”

—Ivette, Cuban woman, 40 Many African American women with dark skin tones never worry about antiaging regimens because their skin seems to hardly wrinkle. They tend to focus on a healthy diet and natural lifestyle to promote healthy skin.

“My secret is simple: low stress, plenty of rest and lots of water. I don’t buy any anti-aging products. I cleanse and moisturize.”

—Cee, African American woman, 35 Full-Spectrum Beauty 31

1/27/17 12:59 PM

FULL-SPECTRUM BEAUTY

2. The Beauty-Culture Intersection Cultural heritage and socioeco­nomics also play a part in determining skin care and beauty regimens. In Asia, fair skin is seen as beautiful because it indicates that a woman is affluent or educated enough to avoid working outdoors. In North America, tan skin is typically seen as beautiful because it indicates that a woman has enough time, and consequently money, for sunbathing.

Latinas, however, differ based on their heritage. With a wide-variety of skin tones, beauty regimens are determined by how a Latina self identifies. For instance, my Cuban mother and grandmother insisted on starting me on a skin care regimen at age 13 and made me promise to always take my makeup off before bed, no matter how tired I was.

Those lessons stuck with me. Even in college, after a night out, I would always be the only one in the bathroom washing my face and removing makeup.

Most African American women were not taught to embrace any specific skin care regimen; they were taught to focus on a healthy diet and natural lifestyle to promote healthy skin.

“For some reason, I feel like the antiaging products would kill my skin’s mojo—LOL! I do moisturize, am all about the sunblock and will splurge on eye cream, because that is where I see most AA women age (plus, I fly, have insane work hours and go out a lot, soooo...).

Water is critical. I have tried powdered collagen and will do under chin exercises to keep my face taut :-).”

—Jetta, African American woman, gen Xer

3. Diverse Regimens The skin care and beauty regimens of many Caucasian women depend on their socioeconomic status and heritage.

More affluent families tend to begin skin care regimens young to combat aging.

However, many are also sun worshipers who prefer a tan.

My own paternal family members enjoyed summering at Cape Cod and sunbathing daily. Because of the lessons ingrained in me by my Cuban

Women’s beauty care regimens are shaped by their culture, class and age.

“I don’t buy any anti-aging, nor did any of the older females in my family!

Black don’t crack!”

—Zee, African American woman, 26

32 Full-Spectrum Beauty Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 w

GCI1702_Morris_fcx.indd 32

1/27/17 12:59 PM

grandmother, I noticed the effects of the sun on their skin and always embraced sunscreen during visits.

Many less-affluent white women do not adopt skin care regimens until they see their own skin begin to age like the other women in their family. The magic age for when women begin to notice these crow’s feet eye wrinkles, large pores, neck and chest wrinkles, sunspots, etc., is about 30 years old.

Once these signs of aging appear, these women are eager for products that will help slow or even prevent the process.

“Wash, exfoliate a few times a week, serum, moisturizer with SPF a must during day (at night sculpting cream), eye cream. And I never forget to do all this on my neck—nothing like a wrinkly neck to give away your age.”

—Beth, Caucasian woman, 35 “Cleanse with a sonic brush, then SKII facial treatment essence, then Neutrogena water boost hydrogel, then Aveeno SPF 55 with vitamin C powder boosted in. At night, remove makeup/​ cleanse with Olay cleansing wipes and Neutrogena rapid wrinkle repair with retinol (can’t do retin A since I’m pregnant—normally would be prescription retin A).

Facials twice a year.”

—Ashley, Caucasian woman, 30 “As a brown person, I’m all about trying to figure out what to do about the sagging, not the wrinkles.”

—Rebecca, Puerto Rican woman, 50

4. Generational Variations Age plays an important role in skin care regimens for two reasons. First, women who were www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Morris_fcx.indd 33

not taught specific skin care maintenance often wait until problems arise before they begin trying to correct the issues.

For example, many of my dark-skinned Latina friends loved tanning and never took measures to protect their skin. Today, many complain of dark spots or a few wrinkles, and they’re just now working to correct those issues.

about beauty, but definitely takes the less-is-more approach (see: Into the Gloss/​ Glossier). I fall mostly into the latter group—but make no mistake, that group still wants to look amazing—they may just want to age a little more gracefully than the other group.”

“As a brown person, I’m all about trying to figure out what to do about the sagging, not the wrinkles. Wrinkles aren’t bugging me too much yet, but the English bulldog jowls are a pain in my ass. Also, the dark spots bug me.

I’m not very disciplined about using a separate product for them, but when I see ‘brightening’ claims or other such code words for helping me with the freckles and brown spots, I get very interested.”

“I use the CA product line ... cleanser, toner, vitamin C serum and rebalance moisturizer. I also drink warm water with lemon and organic apple cider vinegar.”

—Rebecca, Puerto Rican woman, 50

—Betsy, Caucasian woman, 26

—Dee, African American woman, 25 As North America becomes increasingly diverse and evolving technology continues to facilitate the distribution of information from cultures around the world, North American beauty routines will become even more individu­alized.

5. Cultural Crossover

A Blended Future

Because of the immense access to information via technology, many women, especially millennials and gen Xers, are no longer relying solely on their cultural heritage and family to teach them about skin care.

For example, we’re seeing more affluent white women adopting skin care secrets from other cultures, such as Korean multi-step regimens. And younger generations of cultures that originally had little to no skin care regimens, such as African American women, have begun to change their culture’s traditions by adopting new routines.

Overall, technology has had a hand in creating vast cultural shifts that embrace natural beauty over standard beauty ideals.

All-natural products and home remedies are gaining popularity to promote a total wellness lifestyle.

With factors such as skin tone and cultural heritage becoming intertwined, brands must actively strive to stay ahead of trends, with a wide-range of products and colors to match any skin tone or skin care need.

From fair-skinned Latinas to African American women seeking their first skin care regimen to Caucasian women looking for a natural way to combat inherent neck wrinkles, brands that embrace a blended, multicultural view of beauty will be poised for success with the diverse women of North America. n

“So I think there’s a ton of interest in beauty/​skin care in general among the millennial generation, but it’s sort of split between two segments. There’s the Kardashian group with their perfectly spackled pores, overdrawn lips and flawless eyebrows; and then there’s another group that still cares very much

ELLE MORRIS is a branding and design consultant specializing in relationship building between brands and consumers, as The Clientist. The fair-skinned, redheaded Ms. Elenita (Elle) Morris has spent the last two decades in design leadership positions at global brand design firms Elmwood and LPK where she oversaw global beauty brand restages of Pantene Relaxed & Natural, Olay and Fashion Fair cosmetics.

She draws from her Cuban-American heritage and extensive global travels to help clients understand how beauty and the mindsets of women vary greatly across cultures. Follow Elle at https://­twitter.​com/​ElleMorr­isCinci.

GCI’s DAILY NEWSLETTER: breaking news and insights www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

Full-Spectrum Beauty 33

1/27/17 12:59 PM

CMO STORIES

∑ Focus on expanding the brand to be discoverable in the channels where your consumer shops. ∑ Make sure your packaging, brand architecture and formulations follow through on brand promise and differentiation. ∑ Make bets on team members and marketing content development.

@GCI_Magazine

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

34 CMO Stories Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media. w

GCI1702_Williams_fcx.indd 34

1/27/17 11:46 AM

How to build an omnichannel brand around how consumers really shop. | BY ETHELBERT WILLIAMS, Chief Marketing Officer, InstaNatural, LLC InstaNatural (instanatural.com) promises “Your Search for Naturally Radiant Skin Ends Here.” The brand, which recently underwent a refresh, has introduced SKUs such as an Age-Defying Eye Cream, Micellar Water, Moroccan Rose Water, Vitamin C Cleanser, Dead Sea Mud Mask, Glycolic Peel and Dual Phase Mattifying Toner. Here, CMO Ethelbert Williams, discusses his strategy for his brand’s makeover.

—Editor

The consumer may not have a brand in mind when shopping, and so it’s important to curate an experience for her that allows our brand to be discoverable along her shopping journey. www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Williams_fcx.indd 35

CMO Stories 35

1/27/17 11:46 AM

CMO STORIES

I

t’s critical to realize that how women shop today has been completely been transformed by access to information, social influencers, unlimited choice and price visibility.

Today’s online beauty retail landscape is all about discovery. At InstaNatural, we’ve found that 58% of beauty category shoppers begin their purchase journey online, and 73% use their phones for research while in-store. Core insights like this have been the foundation for how we are not only creating amazing product solutions but also curating brilliant ways for her to engage with our brand.

Know What She’s Looking For Our core consumer shops based on ingredients and how-to information and is looking for feedback. As a result, InstaNatural has a solution-first mentality, which is very different than thinking brand-first. The consumer may not have a brand in mind when shopping, and so it’s important to curate an experience for her that allows our brand to be discoverable along her shopping journey. This impacts everything we do with our brand experience, including developing content around the brand that elevates how we’re differentiated.

Know Where They Are

Fitting the Brand to the Experience

We’ve taken insight around how the consumer shops to quickly expand our ecommerce footprint with a focus on her top five online beauty retailers. We’ve also brought forward merchandising and promotional strategies that speak uniquely to her in each channel.

InstaNatural has expanded beyond a direct-to-consumer ecommerce business to include an online presence with many merchants, including Amazon, Walmart, Jet and Zulily, with more in the pipeline.

And, because content is critical to winning in the market with our online retailers, we’ve quickly boosted internal capabilities including a new studio, as well as acquiring content marketing talent that allows us to tell our brand’s story within these new channels.

One of the biggest adjustments we’ve made while quickly transitioning into an omnichannel business has been our brand’s transformation and assortment.

With our channel expansion, we introduced a cleaner and fresher package experience that told a more cohesive story. It features a bird of paradise flower representing magnificence, excellence, success and optimism.

Our brand architecture has been simplified to support a more intuitive shopping experience. In addition, as we move into new channels we must offer a stronger assortment. As a result, we’ve improved our formulations and have launched into new categories, including at-home professional grade skin care treatments.

BRAND TRANSFORMATION CHECKLIST • • • • • • •

36 CMO Stories

GCI1702_Williams_fcx.indd 36

Change focus from brand to solutions Refresh packaging Simplify brand architecture Improve formulations Expand into new categories Expand channels Boost discoverability with engaging content

Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

1/27/17 11:46 AM

w

With our channel expansion, we introduced a cleaner and fresher package experience that told a more cohesive story. It features a bird of paradise flower representing magnificence, excellence, success and optimism.

Final Thought: Be Bold We are still building. The challenges we’ve experienced as a brand have centered around new capabilities and developing teams. Much of what’s driving online retail today is new for everyone, so be bold with talent and take bets on people. Find smart professionals, motivate them and give them runway.

Next, take risks with social media and content. We all recognize the importance of these channels for engaging our audiences, customer service and loyalty. Experiment and pilot as much as possible with new marketing technologies.

Finally, quickly learn what’s working for you and cut the rest.

We’ve personally had a lot of fun exploring live video format for online consultations as well as leveraging personalization tools to actively engage our online shopper. n

ETHELBERT WILLIAMS (www.linkedin.com/in/ethelbertwilliams; @tellnation) has more than 16 years of global commercial leadership experience in consumer and B2B sectors. He currently champions global marketing, brand development and sales strategy for InstaNatural, a leading ecommerce consumer products company. Williams previously drove go-to-market and channel expansion for the personal and facial cleansing category at Kimberly-Clark Corporation. He has held leadership roles at Procter & Gamble, L’Oreal and Unilever. Williams is also an active investor and advisor to exceptional entrepreneurs.

He holds a Bachelor of Science from the Medill School of Journalism at Northwestern University.

SUBSCRIBE TO GCI’s NEWSLETTER

for the latest news and launches.

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Williams_fcx.indd 37

CMO Stories 37

1/27/17 11:46 AM

SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

Ashland’s Harmoniance (INCI: Nelumbo nucifera Extract) was developed by capturing the biologically active benefits of the sacred lotus plant for age-defying facial care creams to brighten skin tone, enhance skin texture, improve skin contouring and reduce wrinkles.

Shiseido Americas Corporation has acquired California tech startup MatchCo, which has created a mobile app that allows consumers to scan their skin tones in order to generate a custom foundation based directly on their individual data. Shiseido’s purchase highlights the ways in which it hopes to reshape its business: boosting on-demand customization of cosmetics beyond just skin care, improving tech for skin assessment/analysis, increasing direct marketing to consumers, which is a strategic strength of smaller beauty brands, and gathering consumer insights to enhance the effectiveness of marketing.

FaceTory has launched a beauty box for Korean sheet masks in the United States. The brand also provides tips and how-to videos for consumers.

Boxes include Seven Lux ($14.95/ month), which provides seven sheet mask selections, including hydrogels and multi-step masks with higher quality ingredients, as well as Four-ever Fresh ($4.95/ month), which includes four fabrictype masks such as cotton and cellulose.

BASF has introduced Relipidium, an active ingredient that stimulates the synthesis of lipids in the epidermis and rebalances the skin microbiota ecosystem to restore the skin barrier and correct dryness. BASF is conducting further research into skin microbiota to drive future innovation for eczema and acne at the International Center for Infectiology Research.

Nannette de Gaspé’s Dry Masques are waterless face and body masques that allow for micro penetration of active ingredients through the multiple layers of the epidermis for continual release of actives for six to eight hours beyond the contact period. Ingredient highlights include stearic acid, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and hydrogenated soybean oil. Pricing: Face Masque ($120), Eye Masque ($90), Mouth Masque ($85), Neck Masque ($100), Hands Masque ($85), collection of five masques ($425).

38 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Skin-Sun-AntiAging_fcx.indd 38

1/27/17 11:49 AM

DJ Khaled and Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula have announced a capsule skin care collection that offers three collectible varieties of Khaled’s catchphrases, including “We the Best Glow,” “Live Life Smooth” and “They Block.” The packaging will also feature Khaled’s signature and trademark gold key. The collection is available in 8.5 oz bottle ($6.50 ) and 13.5 oz pump bottle ($7.95 ) formats.

SKIN CARE BY THE NUMBERS* $179 billion: global skin care products market value by 2022, representing a CAGR of 4.7% (Allied Market Research) 4.9%: projected CAGR of the face cream segment through 2022 (Allied Market Research) $216.52 billion: global value of the anti-aging market by 2021 (Zion) 7.5%: CAGR of the anti-aging market through 2021 (Zion) 40 to 50 million: people in the United States impacted by acne (AO Biome) 20-25%: portion of U.S. acne sufferers who face moderate to severe outbreaks (AO Biome) 80%: portion of adolescents suffering acne (AO Biome) 50%: portion of young adults suffering acne (AO Biome) $1.5 billion: U.S. acne market for systemic retinoids (AO Biome) $700 million: U.S. market of oral antibiotics (AO Biome) $600 million: U.S. market for topical antibiotics (AO Biome) $240 million: U.S. market for topical retinoids (AO Biome) 2-3%: U.S. self-care device market growth, 2016, including LED light therapy (Kline) 25%: 2016 growth in sales of the Neutrogena Light Therapy Acne Mask (Kline) 40%: 2016 growth for Tria Beauty’s Positively Clear 3-Step Skincare Solution (Kline) *Sources: Allied Market Research, www.alliedmarketresearch.com; Zion Market Research, www.zionmarketresearch.com; AO Biome LLC: “Ammonia oxidizing bacteria for treatment of acne,” WIPO Patent Application WO/2017/004557; Kline, www.klinegroup.com

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Skin-Sun-AntiAging_fcx.indd 39

Allergan’s Rhofade cream has been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for the topical treatment of persistent facial erythema (redness) associated with rosacea in adults.

In two clinical trials, a once-daily application of Rhofade was shown to reduce persistent facial erythema associated with rosacea through 12 hours.

Skin Blizzard Intensive Hydrating Facial Serum

by Freeze 24-7 ($95) reduces fine lines and wrinkles with a dime-sized dollop of serum. Key ingredients include grape seed oil.

Eco Bella Mist-On Toner and Vitamin Spray ($31) helps restore the vitality of the skin by balancing pH. The vitamin spray penetrates the skin to deliver natural VitaminCells in order to further moisturize and clear the skin. Key ingredients include aloe vera, apple cider vinegar and vegetable glycerine.

Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 39

1/27/17 11:49 AM

SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING DELIVERING DIY SKIN CARE In the age of Blue Apron cook-it-yourself delivery kits, it was only a matter of time before similar beauty models emerged. Now, comes Oleum Vera, a “home-cooked” beauty brand that offers cleansing, moisturizing, body care, spa-style pampering, hair care and men’s body care kits that allow consumers to whip-up their own products.

Each organic, non-GMO kit comprises plant-based oils and essential oils, powdered clays (when applicable), algae and dried flower petals, and comes with a how-to booklet. Ingredients can be replenished individually.

The brand claims that it “takes inspiration from bountiful nature to create products that empower consumers to reclaim their beauty regimen, using fresh ingredients from their pantry and fridge, natural clays, and organic butters and oils.”

Community manager Èva Morin noted that a hesitance to trust mainstream cosmetics, as well as the healthy eating movement, inspired Oleum Vera to present an alternative that allows consumers to understand what ingredients are going on their skin and hair and to know precisely how products are formulated. Getting consumers directly involved in creating their own products supports experimentation and customization that runs counter to a one-size-fits-all industrial model.

Morin noted that this back-to-basics approach is supported with information booklets included with each kit, which contain quick recipes that can be tweaked, as well as an online community in which consumers can share recipes and troubleshooting tips. In this way, consumers are empowered to take the formulations beyond Oleum Vera’s standard offering.

The range is currently available in France via OleumVera.​com and BienManger.​com; Morin said the hope is to expand to the United States and Canada, the United Kingdom and Europe.

Additional kits are being developed, though Morin was unable to provide additional details as of press time. n

Known for its lip balm and other skin care products, Burt’s Bees recently launched plant-based protein shakes to nourish users from the inside out, effectively bridging the brand into the food and beverage world. The line includes the Protein +Healthy Radiance with Antioxidant Vitamins A, C & E that “gives skin a healthy glow,” according to Jim Geikie, general manager for Burt’s Bees. The SKU provides 4.5 servings of fruits and vegetables, according to the brand. Each powder formula provides 15 grams of protein per serving from five sources: pea, rice, flaxseed, sunflower seed and oat.

“Burt’s Bees for 30 years has always been focused on connecting people with the power and wisdom of nature, and so [we] inherently ... always had ... that ‘beauty from within’ message,” said John Feeney, brand manager at Burt’s Bees.

“We’ve heard from people consistently that they’re living more holistic lifestyles and increasingly connecting what they put in and on their bodies.”

40 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Skin-Sun-AntiAging_fcx.indd 40

1/27/17 11:49 AM

Virospack has introduced smaller designs for its molded glass bottle, which are available in 30 ml wide, 30 ml slim and 15 ml slim formats.

All models are made to work with a variety of droppers (classic and push button) with a 20/410 neck thread and are also available with a wiper.

Virospack also developed a smaller sized dropper for the anti-aging serum, Bioeffect 30 Day Treatment, which gives the user precision and safety during the process.

Lessonia has introduced Fucowhite (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract), a whitening active ingredient extracted from brown algae (Ascophyllum nodosum). The marine active was clinically tested on 24 volunteers in Thailand with Asian skin, applying 2% Fucowhite twice daily in comparison with a placebo group. After 28 days of application, results showed 88% of volunteers from the active group observed an increase of skin clarity from dark to pale.

Madonna has launched her MDNA Skin line of products in Asia, with plans to make them available in the United States “soon,” according to a December 2016 Instagram post. The website, www.mdnaskin. com, which is currently only available in Japanese, features seven products, including a Skin Rejuvenator two-step system, Chrome Clay Mask, The Serum, The Face Wash, The Rose Mist, The Eye Mask and The Eye Serum. A collaboration with MTG Co. Ltd., the skin care line features water from Montecatini Terme, an Italian spa town built around mineral water springs.

The 30 Second Beauty Rescue Intensive Flash Peel

by Dahliana (1 oz bottle, $68) tightens pores, lightens dark spots, and exfoliates and hydrates skin, boosting dull skin to radiance and creating a youthful and revitalizing glow. Key ingredients include aloe vera, coconut oil, spirulina, shea butter and peppermint.

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Skin-Sun-AntiAging_fcx.indd 41

Age may not move in only one direction. Scientists at the Salk Institute revealed in a study published in Cell that they can reverse the biological hallmarks of old age though cellular reprogramming that induces a stem cell-like state for a limited period. Human skin cells in a dish were found to look and behave young again using the new approach, which also improved the lifespan (by 30%) and quality of life of both healthy test mice and those with progeria, a premature aging disease.

Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 41

1/27/17 11:49 AM

SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

Qosmedix has introduced a collection of 250 mL PET lotion and spray bottles to its lineup. Available in black and white, both bottles feature a locking mechanism to keep products from spilling. The bottles with the lotion pump can dispense lotions, creams and liquid formulations.

Dermalogica’s Daily Superfoliant is a powder resurfacer designed to absorb pollutants and inhibit adhesion of pollution particles. Key ingredients include activated binchotan charcoal powder; rice bran extract; a papain, lipase and sutilisin enzyme trio; malic acid and lactic acid; red algae and tara fruit extract; and niacinamide.

Lessonia has developed microbead alternatives, including shells and kernels (almond, argan, walnut, coconut), fruit (apple, pomegranate, orange, cranberry), minerals (garnet, pearl, volcanic sand, quartz), herbs and spices (cocoa, coffee, ginger, rice), seeds (blackcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, kiwi), and flowers and leaves (camomilla, lavender, cornflower, rosemary).

SASE Skincare’s Advanced Hydra-Illuminating Skin Therapy 4 IN 1 ($110) hydrates the skin with antioxidants, peptides, probiotics, brightening ingredients and nourishing oils, and helps deliver collagen-building benefits. Ingredient highlights include: Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, saccharide isomerate, bellis perennis (daisy) flower extract, zizphus jujuba seed extract and olea europaea (olive) leaf extract.

RPC Bramlage provided 100 ml, 200 ml and 400 ml Vega AirFree bottles incorporating the Ecosolution pump and the 20 ml Twist-Up dispenser for the face and body creams of Nadine Salembier.

The fully recyclable airless system prevents air from entering the pack either before or during usage, ensuring the products are fully protected from any external pollutants. The packaging was designed using suppliers selected within a 200 km radius of the production sites, while the pump is produced in only four parts, thus reducing CO2 emissions by 30%.

Silk Inspired Skincare by Sericin+ comprises an Intensive Eye-Lift Micro Cream ($1,100), Reviving Eye Serum ($395), Reviving Eye Cream ($395), Lifting & Stretching Mask ($375), Instant Facelift Cream ($1,095) and Lifting & Stretching Serum ($375), which reverse the aging process by minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and locking in moisture at a cellular level.

Ingredients include: antioxidants, amino acids and anti-aging materials.

DHC’s Revitalizing Booster Serum ($43) uses Japanese technology, called Nanocube, to improve penetration into the skin. The serum promotes a natural skin moisture barrier to stop aging and elasticity loss, and breaks through the skin’s surface to eliminate dryness. Key ingredients include jojoba, squalene, ceramides, collagen, hyaluronic acid and soybean extract.

42 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Skin-Sun-AntiAging_fcx.indd 42

1/27/17 11:49 AM

YES TO IS WINNING SKIN CARE WITH COTTON AND CHARCOAL “Natural HBC [health and beauty care] products are growing 7x the mainstream growth during the latest 24 weeks, based on IRI data, and are contributing over 20% of the absolute dollar growth!” said Yes To CEO, Ingrid Jackel (pictured), during a recent interview with Global Cosmetic Industry.

“Consumers are becoming more and more aware of the products they put on Ingrid Jackel, CEO of Yes To. their face and body as they contribute to the overall health of their skin,” Jackel noted, adding that millennials are the primary driver behind the growth of natural HBC products and the inspiration for new product forms, benefits, ingredients and application techniques.

As a result, she said, retailers have increased their focus on natural HBC products, and Yes To is responding with new innovations and product formats such as wellness-focused SKUs, mud masks, sheet masks and wipes.

“The Yes To innovation strategy is to provide the latest skin care trends with 95% and more natural solutions (and 100% positivity!),” said Jackel.

“Yes To has always been defined by the ingredients it highlights. Lately, those ingredients have included non-food items such as argan, primrose and charcoal.”

To illustrate, the brand’s latest innovations fall into the following categories:

COTTON • Yes To Cotton Comforting Facial Wipes, “the first-ever wellness-focused wipes” for sensitive and allergenic skin, which are formulated with 98% natural ingredients and comprise cotton extract and cottonseed oil; $5.99 for 25 wipes.

• Yes To Cotton Comforting Eye Makeup Remover Pads, which are wellness oriented and made from t-shirt manufacturing scraps, and which contain cottonseed oil and cotton extract; $7.99 for 45 pads.

• Yes To Cotton Comforting Facial Moisturizer, featuring an “airy” texture appropriate for sensitive skin. Key ingredients include cotton extract and cottonseed oil; $14.99 for 1.7 fl oz.

• Yes To Single Use Comforting Paper Mask, comprising cotton extract and cottonseed oil; $2.99 for one single-use mask.

• Yes To Cotton Comforting Micellar Cleansing Water, a no-rinse product containing cotton extract and cottonseed oil; $8.99 for 7.77 fl oz.

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Skin-Sun-AntiAging_fcx.indd 43

CHARCOAL • Yes To Tomatoes Detoxifying Charcoal Warming Facial Scrub, which comprises charcoal and tomato extract for antioxidant activity and skin detoxification; $9.99 for 3.5 oz.

• Yes To Tomatoes Detoxifying Charcoal DIY Powder-to-Clay Mask, which consumers mix themselves and which contains charcoal and tomato extract; $15.99 for 1 oz.

• Yes To Tomatoes Detoxifying Charcoal Peel-Off Mask, which contains charcoal and tomato extract and offers hands-free application; $15.99 for 2 fl oz.

• Yes To Tomatoes Detoxifying Charcoal Cleanser, which features charcoal, tomato extract, salicylic acid for proper epidermis cell shedding and jojoba spheres for exfoliation; $9.99 for 5 fl oz/$3.99 for 2 fl oz.

“Yes To is focused on hot trending natural ingredients that deliver the desired benefits of the millennial skin care consumer,” Jackel explained.

“That will include food ingredients, as well as non-food ingredients.”

Recent launches comprising both food and non-food ingredients include:

TWO-STEP KITS • Yes To 2-Step Kit Collection, comprising Depuffing Under-Eye Masks and Anti-dark Circle Eye Treatment featuring cucumbers caffeine and evodia fruit; Yes To Tomatoes Charcoal 2-Step Buh-Bye Blackheads Nose Kit, comprising a Detoxifying Charcoal Cleanser and Detoxifying Charcoal Nose Strip featuring charcoal and tomato extract; Yes To Coconut 2-Step Pucker Up Lip Kit, comprising an Extra Hydrating Exfoliating Lip Scrub and Plumping Lip Mask featuring coconut oil, sugar and sodium hyaluronate; and Yes To Grapefruit 2-Step Face Kit, comprising a Daily Facial Scrub and Pore Perfection Brightening Peel containing grapefruit and vitamin C; $3.99 for each kit.

SHOWER COCKTAILS • Yes To Shower Cocktail Body Wash Collection featuring grapefruit, mandarin orange, kiwi, coconut, mango, papaya, lemon, ginger and epsom salt; $7.99 for 16 fl oz.

FRUITS & VEGETABLES • Yes To Micellar Cleansing Waters, comprising coconut oil and cucumber extract, appropriate for hydration and calmed skin; $8.99 for 7.77 fl oz/$3.99 for 3 fl oz.

• Yes To Grapefruit Daily Facial Scrub, featuring grapefruit extract and lemon balm extract; $9.99 for 4 oz/$2.99 for 1 oz.

“Yes To will continue to bring first-to-market innovation to the natural HBC market, taking advantage of the hottest ingredient trends,” Jackel concluded.

“With our expanded marketing plans and investment, Yes To will continue to solidify its connection with the millennial consumers. As we did with our latest round of innovations, we will continue to grab #1 ranking positions in more and more segments of the natural face skin care category.” n

Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 43

1/27/17 11:49 AM

HAIR Multicultural Hair Care: Effective, Clean and Modern Israel Segal, founder of hair care brand Free Your Mane, has coarse, curly hair, which often led him to shop in the often underwhelming “ethnic” hair care section of the drug store.* So, when he adopted African American twins Ziggy and Nola, he set out on a mission to develop effective products for textured hair that were free of harsh ingredients such as parabens, phthalates and sulfates.

Segal channeled his 20-plus years of experience in fashion and beauty into creating Free Your Mane, which comprises hair care (Baobab Brilliant Hydrating Shampoo, Baobab Brilliant Daily Detangling Conditioner, Baobab Brilliant Restorative Hair Oil, Glimmer Pomade and more) and body care (Baobab Brilliant Sheer Body Oil, Yuzu Body Wash, etc.).

Segal noted that he wanted consumers to feel good about their hair, and so has worked to educate consumers with textured hair about effective ingredients.

The Free Your Mane formulations address fine, kinky, coarse, curly and wavy hair and are built around key ingredients such as

Free Your Mane targets consumers by hair texture, not demographics.

pomegranate seed oil, sweet almond oil, wheat amino acids, retinyl palmitate, avocado oil, aloe leaf juice, pearl powder and shea butter.

However, baobab oil is the brand’s true hero ingredient.

The cold-pressed material is nutrient-rich and has a good molecular weight. Free Your Mane is able to benefit the producers of the oil, adding an extra dimension of ethics to the brand.

Bad Hair or Bad Products?

An image from Free Your Mane’s current campaign.

LESSONS FOR SUCCESS In conversation, Global Cosmetic Industry asked Segal for his insights into successful brand stewardship. Below are a selection of his comments.

• Find a mentor that you trust. To get the best insights for your career, Segal suggests going to the top. It’s the leaders in the industry who often have the time and generosity to share their experiences.

While peers may seem accessible, they’re typically too preoccupied with their own projects and don’t have time to be an effective mentor.

• Step away from your brand. As Segal learned in the early bootstrapping days of Free Your Mane, it’s difficult to outsource. But, once a founder has the resources, he recommends that brand leaders outsource anything and everything they’re not strong at. By not trying to do everything or getting overly involved in all aspects of the business can preserve a founder’s perspective, he added. Doing this well requires the assembly of a team that can balance out one’s own weaknesses.

*Read an extended version of this article online at www.gcimagazine.com/ marketstrends/segments/hair

For Segal, bad hair isn’t about “bad hair,” but rather bad/ inappropriate products. Today, he said, it’s not enough to just add body, shine or color protection—hair care brands need to deliver all of these elements.

He added that textured hair brands shouldn’t focus on the race/demographic of the consumer but rather the character of their hair—particularly because many people have multiple textures within any given racial group, not to mention among multiracial Free Your Mane’s Glimmer Pomade. consumers.

Today, Free Your Mane offers more styling products, including a forthcoming curl cream. And the brand continues to educate consumers about effective and safe products for textured hair. Free Your Mane has expanded its distribution online, at pop up shops, retailers such as Anthropologie and smaller consumer events such as Black Girl Beautiful. And, now, it’s expanding to target consumers with specific hair challenges, like surfers. n

44 Hair Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Hair_fcx.indd 44

1/27/17 11:50 AM

SteelMclean’s unisex grooming line includes hair and skin products inspired by the salon. The range, available at www.steelmclean.com, was developed by Rayon Mclean, owner of SteelMclean Barbers, and includes a Scalp Cleanser & Shave Lotion, which uses peppermint oil to soothe the scalp, as well as shaving irritation. The Sport Culture green tea body wash and face cleanser comprises 11 botanical extracts to moisturize and refresh the skin. The line is alcohol, paraben, sulfate and sodium chloride-free, and pH balanced.

Carol’s Daughter has released its “Styling By Nature” line, which is formulated with pracaxi oil, a Brazilian conditioning nectar that helps to keep hair soft to the touch without flakes or residue.

Sold exclusively at Sally Beauty, the range includes the Wash-NGo Leave-In ($11), Style Control Gel ($11) and Curl Twisting Custard ($13).

Argan Oil ($30) by RG Cosmetics restores moisture and repairs hair strands for a healthier head of hair. Key ingredients include argan, provitamin B5 and fatty acids.

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Hair_fcx.indd 45

Rich International Creative Haircare, powered by argan oil, has introduced a range of products (pictured), including Argan Volumizing Mousse ($13.99), Argan Color Protect Conditioner (6.75 oz. bottle, $12.99, or 25.36 oz. bottle, $25.99), Argan Color Protect Shampoo (8.45 oz. bottle, $11.99, or 25.36 oz. bottle, $24.99) and Argan De-Frizz & Shine Mist ($19.99).

Hair Coach Powered by Withings

by Kérastase ($200) is purported to be the first smart hair brush, earning an International CES Innovation Award for its ability to understand how the user is brushing their hair. The brush can identify the sound of frizziness, dryness, split ends and breakage all through a microphone meant to identify hair brushing patterns. The brush can also count the number of strokes and whether the smart brush is combing through wet or dry hair.

Inspired by Korean companies formulating beauty products infused with snail extract, Kenra Professionals created its Snail CC Creme for hair care and partnered with TricorBraun to create the 2.5 fluid ounce and 1 fluid ounce tubes, as well as the graphic design of the product’s label. The larger stock tube has a customized metal overshell on the collar and an airless pump dispensing system with a clear cap. The smaller stock tube has a snap-on, flip top closure and is a squeeze dispensing system. The blue base color evokes a premium look that will stand out on the shelf.

Hair 45

1/27/17 11:50 AM

HAIR

L’Oréal has developed a mobile-friendly L’Oréal Hair Colorist/Paris consultation tool that allows consumers to live chat with a hair color specialist to receive hair color advice, correct coloring mistakes and receive product recommendations.

MCaffeine an India-based personal care brand with caffeine-infused products, has raised ace investor funding of $300,000. MCaffeine’s caffeine-infused products include shampoos and face wash, “which offers a unique combination of energy and care,” according to the brand. The ingredient reportedly prevents hair fall and firms the skin.

“We launched the brand with six SKUs, including face wash and shampoo,” said Tarun Sharma, founder and CEO of MCaffeine. “We aim ourselves for $2 million in revenues with 40 SKUs and multiple sales channels in a year. We have sold more than 20,000 units in less than two months, and the customer response is overwhelming. We are delivering to more than 14,000 pin codes across India and are working on international shipping as well.”

Specific Mask by Truss Hair Therapy ($29.40) reduces frizzy hair while deeply moisturizing and repairing it. This product will replenish softness and strength when used three times a week. The hair mask is suitable for all hair types, repairing hair cuticles and damaged hair.

Key ingredients include a “bio-affinity complex,” sericin, keratin, collagen, vitamin E, argan oil and lipo-nutrients.

Pop that top…of your shampoo bottle. Cuvée Beauty rung in 2017 with its new collection of champagne-infused hair care. Inspired by the shine and soft texture the spray of champagne bottles left on founder Rachel Katzman’s hair, products in the unisex line contain champagne extracts, antioxidants and plant-based proteins. The boozy products sell for $35–$45 on Cuvée’s website. The range includes a texturizing spray, shampoo, conditioner, nourishing complex, styling balm and protective complex.

SUBSCRIBE TO GCI’s NEWSLETTER for innovation and breaking news daily. www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

46 Hair Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Hair_fcx.indd 46

1/27/17 11:50 AM

Untitled-3 1

1/26/17 10:15 AM

COSMETICS Gel Couture provides perfect gel nails without having to cure or use a lamp.

Consumers can choose the color, then top it with the Essie high-gloss top coat to create the illusion of freshly done gel nails. The color array includes “Atelier,” made up of neutrals from lustrous pearl to creamy silks; “First Look,” made up of pastels; “Fashion Show,” made up of bright colors from hot red to acid chartreuse; and “After Party,” made of deep colors from plum to a blood red.

VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland is developing leaf-processing technologies that could produce pigments and bioactive ingredients from autumn leaves for the cosmetics industry, effectively using biotechnological methods to modify pigments. Autumn leaves derive their color from orange and yellow carotenoids and red anthocyanins, according to the center. These pigments could have some health-promoting effects. Nutrient-rich residual biomass could be further processed to produce compounds that inhibit the growth of harmful microbes in cosmetics.

According to a new research note from Mintel, “16% of U.S. females now regularly use a primer before applying their base make-up.”* Makeup setting sprays include Skindinavia Makeup Setting Spray (pictured), Urban Decay All Nighter Long-Lasting Makeup Setting Spray, Supergoop Defense Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50, Coola Makeup Setting Spray SPF 30 and Make Up For Ever Mist & Fix Setting Spray.

There are additional opportunities to launch setting sprays for nails, according to Mintel. To differentiate themselves on the market, brands can incorporate pollution defense, food-inspired ingredients, botanicals and more.

Non-primer facial mists displaying some of these trends include Mario Badescu Facial Spray With Aloe, Herb and Rosewater, Honest Beauty Hydrating Face Mist, Evian Natural Mineral Water Facial Spray Duo, Ole Henriksen African Red Tea Face Mist and The Body Shop Vitamin E Hydrating Face Mist.

The Mintel research note concluded, “Delivering longwear performance without compromising on a natural skin feel will satisfy consumers’ desire for a polished yet ‘no make up’ effect.” *www.mintel.com

MAC Cosmetics and Caitlyn Jenner have announced their second collaboration of color cosmetics. The 15-piece MAC x Caitlyn Jenner collection includes eye shadows, lipsticks, lip glosses, bronzer, blush and false eyelashes in “elegant, classic shades beautifully suited for everyone who wears them.”

Cosmetic Glitter by Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics ($15) is an iridescent green with goldenorange duochrome available in tones such as Scarab (pictured).

The ultra small particle glitter works best if used over a primer.

Key ingredients: Aluminum copolymer.

R ( w T w

Brow Fixx by Elke ($24) claims to tame unruly brows better than a regular brow pencil, creating a more realistic look with tiny fibers to bulk up brows in one swipe.

48 Cosmetics Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Cosmetics_fcx.indd 48

1/27/17 11:52 AM

Runway Rogue Lipsticks ($21) limited edition collection is long-lasting and hydrating and includes Selfie, Afterparty, Stilettos, Head Over Heels, Fashionista, Photo-Op, Casting Call and Designer’s Muse, and come in matte or satin.

Key ingredients include jojoba oil, safflower oil, green tea extract, white tea extract, chamomile extract, aloe vera and vitamin E.

On Your Face Contour + Color Trio by Reina Rebelde ($20), part of a larger collection (pictured), celebrates Latina culture duality with the three shade palette called Coqueta.

The palette includes pearl rose blush, pearl white highlighter and a matte bronzer.

Some cosmetics brands play the long game, honing their expertise and earning consumers’ trusts, while others make smart bets on emerging trends. Kat Von D, is tweaking the latter approach by regularly rolling out new SKUs to entice consumers seeking newness, while throwing in a little scarcity to keep things interesting.

Under its Everlasting Flash program with Sephora, Kat Von D is introducing new lip products for 48 hours during the first week of every month, allowing quick-moving consumers to snap up the new products before they hit the store. As the brand says, “If you want it, you have to act fast—these products will be gone in an Everlasting Flash.”

The latest shade, Sanctuary, is a neutral long-lasting sepia tone enriched with vitamin E and sunflower seed oil that “glides over lips like a gloss but dries to a true matte finish.” Up next are six new nude shades of Everlasting Liquid Lipstick.

Dr.’s Remedy has introduced a new podiatrist-formulated vitamin for healthy nails, as well as a new color, Mindful Mulberry (combined: $17).

The color is formulated with tea tree oil, garlic extract, lavender, vitamins and wheat protein. The vitamin contains biotin to support normal cell growth, repair damaged cells and help create new tissue for stronger, healthier nails.

Symrise has introduced SymOcide C (INCI: o-Cymen-5-ol) to provide cosmetic manufacturers with an effective and safe alternative to conventional preservatives. The ingredient has antimicrobial properties, is odorless and globally approved, including Europe and Japan.

Anastasia Beverly Hills, one of social media’s most beloved brands, as well as a leading innovator in the dupe space, has introduced its new Lip Palette, featuring 18 long-wear shades with a matte finish. The intense pigments include five pure primary hues (white, black, red, yellow and blue) and neutrals, as well as bolds and brights, encouraging mixing and self-customization. The palette includes a mixing plate and dual-ended lip brush spatula. The palette retails for $48 via AnastasiaBeverlyHills.com now, and at Sephora, Ulta, Macy’s and Dillards in March.

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Cosmetics_fcx.indd 49

Cosmetics 49

1/27/17 11:52 AM

COSMETICS

700 SKUs and Counting Sephora Collection, Sephora’s comprehensive and exclusive privatelabel beauty brand, rebranded in fall 2016, with an integrated “Beauty, Uncomplicated” campaign. With the rebrand, came the launch of two new mobile-first ecommerce tools designed to simplify the beauty shopping experience, The Beauty Uncomplicator, and Swipe It. Shop It. According to Molly Brooks, Sephora Collection’s director of product development, the brand’s goal is to provide an array of prestige-quality, on-trend products for all skin types and skin tones.

A MASSIVE SKU RANGE Sephora Collection comprises about 700 SKUs across color, tools, accessories and skin care, the largest assortment available at Sephora. With new launches every season, the brand continues to expand its range and launch innovative products across all three worlds.

Last fall, Sephora Collection launched an assortment of new products designed to uncomplicate beauty for its clients. In complexion, the brand launched Matte Perfection Powder Foundation (pictured), which is a buildable powder foundation available in an extensive range of more than 35 complexion tones, ensuring a shade for all.

Other new product launches included Sephora Collection Lashcraft Length & Volume Mascara (pictured), a jet black mascara featuring a dual sided brush, and Sephora Collection Pro Airbrush Perfector #51 (pictured), a foundation brush that works with a multitude of formulas for an all-over flawless finish. In addition to core and seasonal launches, Sephora Collection also seeks out and creates unique partnerships with other brands. Partnerships have included Alexis Bittar, Karen Walker, Mara Hoffman and House of Lashes, a line of exclusive, luxe false lashes.

To keep up with the pace of trends, insights and launches, the North America Sephora Collection team has grown in recent years, said Brooks, allowing it to meet the emerging needs of the market.

Brooks explained that new concepts for both core and trend-inspired launches are driven by many sources, including insights from their own research, their Parisian counterparts, the Sephora merchant team, social media, an internal task force of trainers and Sephora Pro Team makeup artists, and other industry sources.

Today, said Brooks, beauty is a conversation, or dialogue—not a one-way street. Social media has forever changed beauty and beauty knowledge via consumer recommendations, inspirational and sharing platforms such as Instagram and Snapchat and video tutorials from influencers. Being a part of that conversation, both as a listener and provider of content, is important for any brand.

RAPID INNOVATION Restlessness and speed to market is critical to Sephroa Collection’s success. For more trend-driven SKUs—the latest highlighting product, color correction solution or matte metallic lip powder—the group might fast-track a project in under 12 months.

COMMUNICATION IS EVERYTHING Brooks noted that “communication is critical” when working on a small team, so she spends much of her time on the phone and in meetings.

While no day is “typical,” Brooks said that she often begins her day with calls to the Paris team regarding global projects, products and packaging, and brand and supplier strategy.

WHAT’S NEXT? When asked about emerging trends she’s most focused on, Brooks highlighted: • Makeup-to-skin care bridge products • High-performance ingredients • Smog and pollution protection trends • Customized multi-format products • Travel-sized products

ABOUT MOLLY BROOKS Director of Product Development, Sephora Collection

How She Got Her Job A born beauty junkie, Brooks, moved to Los Angeles to begin her career at Smashbox (acquired by Estée Lauder in 2010). She worked across multiple tasks, including purchasing, sourcing, market assessments, product conceptualization and project timelines.

Brooks did a brief stint with a personal care contract manufacturer, which taught her about the manufacturing side of the industry, before joining the ranks at Benefit Cosmetics in San Francisco. There, she received a crash course in product marketing, while LVMH honed her strategic skills.

These experiences led to an opportunity to work for Sephora Collection in product development.

Career Advice 1. People want to work with flexible people. When entering a new organization, it is critical to observe and learn the needs of the business, with an all-hands-on deck mentality, said Brooks. This disposition speaks volumes about one’s potential.

2. Trust yourself. People do things differently, said Brooks. There are many ways to accomplish the same goal, many paths to the same solution. She added that no one has all the answers, and that much of the beauty business is about hypothesizing, and making educated guesses and estimations.

Young professionals may be prone to doubting themselves. Brooks’ advice: Take risks, push yourself and be a little uncomfortable; you’ll gain trust in your decision making over time, and so will others.

3. Celebrate and create. Brooks said it is important to celebrate the creativity and successes of others. By doing so, teams will thrive. Brooks explained that being overly critical can stifle creativity, resulting in less innovative and disruptive thinking. n

50 Cosmetics Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Cosmetics_fcx.indd 50

1/27/17 11:52 AM

Japan-based contract manufacturer Nihon Kolmar* has invested in U.S.-based Englewood Lab, a contract manufacturer and R&D resource for luxury skin care. The investment will boost Englewood Lab’s capabilities in the fast-growing color cosmetics sector. Nihon Kolmar’s expertise lies in the area of beauty powders, lip care and hair care, among other segments. *No affiliation to Kolmar Lab in Port Jervis, New York.

Morphe Liquid Lipstick has launched a range of velvety matte textures and colors in 22 shades, including nudes, plums and reds.

The liquid creams retail for $12.99 each at Morphe’s website and Burbank, California, retail location.

Hourglass, one of social media’s favorite brands of the last year, is embracing the 90s trend by naming former model, Jenny Shimizu, the face of its new Girl Lipstick Collection. The collection is made up of 20 lipstick shades with names such as Protector, Activist, Innovator and Visionary, which are meant to help recognize the good in those who wear the shades.

Rouge Pur Couture by Yves Saint Laurent featured a unique Christmas season design from Axilone, including a glossy gold anodized aluminium cap. Axilone’s application allowed for a gradient of flakes from the top to the base of the cap. A successive application of five layers of varnish gave the piece a smooth and silky finish. The cap is fitted with a POM low VOC insert to ensure compatibility when in contact with the formula.

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER Sign up to receive daily news, insights and trends

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Cosmetics_fcx.indd 51

Cosmetics 51

1/27/17 11:52 AM

BATH/BODY/FRAGRANCE

Bond No. 9 encased its signature fragrance bottles in Swarovski crystals for the 2016 holidays. The bottles were available in the Galactic Coffret, a triple-tier bijoux keepsake box covered with 4,000 hand-applied Swarovski Fancy Stones. The crystals included cabochons, hearts, aqualines and teardrops. The refillable bottles included: Signature Perfume, Park Avenue South, Perfumista Avenue, New York Musk, Queens, Madison Avenue and Scent of Peace.

The coffrets were produced in a limited run of 100 and retailed for $14,000. A single Signature Perfume (100 ml) in amethyst and purple velvet crystals was packaged in a velvet box with the Bond No. 9 token logo formed by a meticulous trace-work of Swarovski crystals (price: $1,000).

The Pitbull Cuba fragrance line for men and women embodies the essence of the island’s legendary nightclubs, sultry beats, and the combination of sugar and rum. Both Cuba Man and Cuba Woman bottles feature vibrant, retro artwork. Cuba man has notes of rosemary, bergamot, lemon and cardamom, jasmine, coriander, oakmoss, tonka bean, cedarwood and musk. Cuba Woman has notes of bergamot, mandarin, pomelo, orange flower, magnolia, freesia, mimosa, amber and musks.

With the fragrance of jasmine, the Groupe GM Organic Pharmacy is a line of shower products meant to be both healthy for the environment and the body. The London-based company uses medicinal herbs and vitamin extracts to formulate its products. The shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, body lotion and soap are eco-friendly.

Zoé Sun Shimmer Oil Body, Face and Hair “smells of summer” and supports soft, supple skin with a natural-looking tan. The light, velvety formulations comprise fine, shimmering particles that emphasize natural tans, while the tan intensifier stimulates melanin production.

The skin care element of the formulations include jojoba and argan oil, as well as vitamin E. The products can be applied to hair ends for a “luxurious shine” and “flawless appearance.”

Molecular Parfum by Aether (50 ml bottle, $122, or 100 ml bottle, $183) takes a new approach to unisex fragrances by using synthetic molecules, including rose alkane, carboneum, musk ethanol, citrus ester and ether oxide. The laser-cut aeronautic bottles are inspired by vintage pharmaceutical bottle shapes and sit in a black foam casing.

Dove recently celebrated the 60th anniversary of its iconic Dove Beauty Bar. “Women have always been our inspiration,” said Nick Soukas, vice president of marketing for Dove.

“Together with generations of women, Dove has helped widen the definition of beauty, but there’s always more work to be done.” During a limited time in January and February 2017, Dove wrote the word “Care” across their Beauty Bar.

52 Bath/Body/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_Bath-Body-Fragrance_fcx.indd 52

1/27/17 11:53 AM

Scent retailer The Fragrance Outlet is now using Aptos Allocation & Replenishment to identify unique selling patterns at each store, better forecast sales at a SKU level, and ultimately lower inventory while increasing sales and profitability, according to a recent announcement from the firms. The Fragrance Outlet has more than 100 physical stores in the United States and Guam, with 10-15 to come this year, as well as an ecommerce site. The retailer is leveraging the cloud-based Aptos Store for point of sale, Aptos Sales Audit, Aptos CRM and Aptos Merchandising, including Aptos Allocation & Replenishment. The program began in June 2016, netting a 22% decrease in inventory levels and reduced warehousing costs, without stopping sales growth.

Scentbird’s Sassy Bombshell ($59.95) collection comprises Not a Perfume, So Nude and Eros Pour Femme, packaged in pink, orange and brown bottles and organized inside a gift box. Not a Perfume is a warm scent that gives off a “mysterious and conspicuous” aura. So Nude is a floral scent that hides a hint of spice and vanilla. Eros Pour Femme is a fruity perfume with layers of jasmine.

Actor Luke Bracey, has been named the new face of Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ Polo Red franchise. The campaign debuts worldwide across print, digital and television in March and will feature a short film to introduce the new Polo Red Extreme fragrance. According to the company, Polo Red Extreme is “a powerful, masculine scent designed for the thrill seeker who pushed limits to the edge and thrives on extreme sensations.”

AAK Personal Care has developed a Moisture Rescue Eco-Conscious Body Cream sample formulation that meets COSMOS requirements. Formulated with 95% natural ingredients, this gelcream’s softening texture can be used to start the day, or after a workout for rebalancing and hydrating. The formula features Lipex Bassol C (INCI: Canola or Olus or Vegetable Oil), which is a processed rapeseed oil with longlasting lubricity and stability against photo-induced oxidation.

www.GCImagazine.com

GCI1702_Bath-Body-Fragrance_fcx.indd 53

Peppermint Eucalyptus Argan Oil Lip Balm by Moroccan Magic ($12) helps moisture and quickly absorb into the lips.

The lip balm also smooths and tones the lips. Key ingredients include: organic sunflower oil, organic beeswax, organic argan oil, organic coconut oil and organic peppermint oil.

Prai Beauty has launched the Pretty in Prai fragrance (1.7 oz., $39.95, and 0.17 oz., $14.95), featuring notes of fresh citrus, green fruits, jasmine and gardenia. The Pretty in Prai Body Lotion (8-oz. bottle, $29.95) provides lightweight, quick-absorbing moisture in a fresh floral scent.

Bath/Body/Fragrance 53

1/27/17 11:53 AM

PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

PRIVATE LABEL

ki

m

PACKAGING

Follow us on Twitter @GCI_Magazine

To reserve space in this section, contact

Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com 1-630-344-6054

54 Products and Services Showcase Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

GCI1702_PS Showcase_fcx.indd 54

1/27/17 11:54 AM

Innovation

Is Beautiful

Don’t miss all the changes Global Cosmetic Industry is making Visit GCImagazine.com/reboot to learn more!

GCI_New Design FullPg.indd 1

11/17/16 4:31 PM

AD INDEX The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE

ADVERTISER

PHONE

WEB SITE

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

Cover 3

Cosmetic Group USA, Inc.

1-818-767-2889

www.cosmeticgroupusa.com

Cover 2

Cosmopak USA/Cosmopak Europe

1-516-767-9119

www.cosmopak.com

Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.

1-502-348-5159

www.inoacusa.com

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

25

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

11

Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics Europe

44-20-8271-2122

www.in-cosmetics.com

36

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

37

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

29

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

47

YonWoo/PKG

1-631-981-8701

www.pkggroup.com

3 Cover 4 15

21 7

5

56

Ad Index

GCI1702_Ad Index_fcx.indd 56

Global Cosmetic Industry | February 2017

1/27/17 11:54 AM

< H G M K : < M F:GN?:<MNKBG@

BGGHO:MBHG

< N L M H F ?HKFNE:MBHG

<HLF>MB<@KHNINL:'<HF BG?H9<HLF>MB<@KHNINL: 1*1 0/0 +112

Untitled-2 1

1/26/17 10:04 AM

AuraSphere

®

Aqueous Polymer Dispersion Readily Disperses in Aqueous Systems Spherical Particles Provide a Smooth, * Ü`iÀÞÊ Ã Dramatic Wrinkle Veiling Effect

20 Glover Ave, Norwalk, CT 06850 ÓäΰnÓÓ° nääÊÊUÊÊ >Ý\ÊÓäΰnÓÓ° nÓä cosmetics@centerchem.com www.centerchem.com

Untitled-3 1

1/26/17 10:21 AM