GCI Magazine 05 May 2017 by Bel SPA

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CONTENTS 14

MAY 2017 | VOLUME 185, NUMBER 5

FEATURES 8 K-beauty Goes Mass DK Cosmetics’ brands are expanding across every channel, broadening Korean beauty’s reach among consumers.

12 Amazon Wants to Disrupt the Way You Create, Package and Sell Products

How the ecommerce giant is trying to sidestep traditional retailer-brand relationships.

14 Market Report: Natural Beauty Care

Sales ﬁgures, category breakdowns and insights into consumer and brand drivers.

20 U.S. Bath & Body Market Report The rise of male grooming, multifunctional and natural products are creating dynamic growth.

26 Beauty Marketing: Globalizing Trust Word of mouth rules, whatever the language. BY SOURABH SHARMA

30 Smart Packaging: Bringing Brands Alive

Innovations in technology enable brands to engage with consumers in dynamic new ways.

BY LAURA ZIV

40 Bacteria-rich Beauty Mother Dirt’s probiotic approach to skin care.

42 Madison Reed: Disrupting the Hair Color Experience

CEO Amy Errett on the power of algorithms and data, her omnichannel strategy, and what’s next for the tech-savvy brand.

Contents

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Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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CONTENTS EDITORIAL

Director Editor in Chief Research Analyst Assistant Editors

Digital/Social Media Editor

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com Savannah Saunders | ssaunders@allured.com Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com Lisa Schryver | 1-630-344-6068/lschryver@allured.com Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Fragrance Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan Marketing Specialist Alyssa Derby Customer Service 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN Graphic Design Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

Lisa Hede Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE Partner & President Partner & CEO Controller Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Janet Ludwig George Fox Linda Getner Rose Southard Maria Romero

DEPARTMENTS 6 Spark: Reaching New Heights BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

8 Markets & Trends 34 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 42 Hair 46 Makeup 50 Bath/Body/Fragrance

RESOURCES 55 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com

Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Skin Inc. magazine Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Northern California Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Southeast Spa Conference and Expo Perfumer & Flavorist magazine World Perfumery Congress Flavorcon

Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States. All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective. Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published eleven times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2017. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA.

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Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

4 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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Sales Force Expansion:

Please forward résumé in confidence to hr@usnonwovens.com © 2017 U.S. Nonwovens Corp. Made in USA with Pride logo™, Wind Energy logo™, Artesian Glacial Aquifer Water logo™, and Free Of logo™ are trademarks of U.S. Nonwovens Corp. All rights reserved. The UL Logo is a trademark of UL LLC. All rights reserved. 2409 0517

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SPARK

| BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

Reaching New Heights

JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GLOBAL COSMETIC INDUSTRY MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON Alice Communications, Inc.

ADA POLLA Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, Ph.D. A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO R4 Innovations

CRISTINA SAMUELS Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

eauty care is a high-innovation category. Whether launching a novel, neverbefore-seen technology, tweaking an existing product format or applying old materials in new ways, brands are finding creative strategies to elevate products and the consumer’s experience.

This month, we celebrate the beauty world’s diversity of ingenuity, including: • Connected packaging that brings brands alive on-shelf and beyond (page 30); • Madison Reed’s AI-assisted hair color shade selection (page 42); • Olay Duo’s Dual-Sided Body Cleanser, which has created an experiential twist on a legacy brand (page 50); • YouCam’s augmented reality livestreaming app (page 46); • Mother Dirt/AOBiome’s bacteria-rich skin care research (page 40); and • Emerging ingredients that defend the skin from infrared light, pollution and more (page 34).

The nature of this industry (and the reason I love covering it) is such that by the time this article appears in print and online, several new, noteworthy beauty care innovations will have emerged. The future is bright. Also this month, we introduce the latest in our monthly market report series: Natural Beauty and Personal Care and U.S. Bath & Body. These reports comprise the latest annual market values, segment data and insights, offering you and your teams a compact resource for brand and marketing strategies, product development and more. Look for additional reports each month, and if you missed last month’s Global and U.S. Color Cosmetics Market Reports or our list of Top Global Beauty Care Companies, just visit www.gcimagazine.com/magazine/ pastissues and click on our April issue. See you next month.

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6 Spark Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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MARKETS & TRENDS

K-beauty Goes Mass DK Cosmetics’ brands are expanding across every channel, broadening Korean beauty’s reach among consumers.

orean beauty gets a lot of attention because of its elaborate steps and unusual product formats and ingredients. And much of the K-beauty brands that have transitioned to the United States and other markets tend toward the prestige side of the market. But Janice Kang, director of marketing and new business development, and Sunyoung Lee, director of purchasing for DK Cosmetics, say that mass in Korea is eye-catching, offering playful packaging that captures consumer excitement. It’s Clio Professional’s Nudism Compact specifically this dynamic that DK Cosmetics and its sub brands seek to bring to the United States and beyond (see About DK Cosmetics).

can offer the Soo Ae brand at low prices. DK Cosmetics’ brands leverage packaging to educate the mass consumer about ingredients, such as a set of masks with ingredients and their function listed side-by-side in a highly visual design. Club Clio’s seven Clio stores in the United States also serve as testing grounds for new products and packaging.

K-color

Making K-beauty More Discoverable DK Cosmetics’ brands have begun to appear in mass channels, including Amazon (Dr.G), Target (Derma Dr. Lab), Ulta (Goodal) and Walmart (Soo Ae, Derma Dr. Lab), offering both value and performance to a new group of consumers. Lee and Kang note that products such as masks are ideal for inspiring impulse purchases and offer an effective way to make K-beauty more discoverable. Because DK Cosmetics owns its means of production and distribution, it

Korea is a highly homogenous country; for this reason, it is often difficult for K-beauty brands to address the diverse range of skin tones found in the United States and other markets. Kang and Lee noted that other cultural factors are at work. For instance, while matte lips have been a hot trend in the West, matte is sometimes interpreted by Korean consumers as dry, which is anathema to their desire for a well-hydrated appearance. However, matte lips are now becoming more popular in the country, and Club Clio is launching a range of products reflecting this, including Clio Professional Mad for Matte and Peripera Ink Velvet and Airy Ink Velvet. Lee and Kang noted that a number of Western color brands are making headway in Korea, including Kat Von D and Stila. In fact, some Korean women prefer the textures of Western formulations.

Broadening the Audience

The Derma Dr. Lab product range

In addition to its mass channel expansions, Clio Professional has been strategic about its storefronts. While the brand opened its first shop in Flushing, Queens, where roughly 70% of residents are of Asian descent, and where The Dr.G Brightening Peeling Gel many Asian travelers visit, Clio

8 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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Professional has deliberately expanded into non-Asiancentric neighborhoods, including New York’s Union Square. Kang noted that the brand wanted to be accessible to all types of consumers and to ensure that the focus remained on the products, not their national origin.

Expanding Affordable Beauty

The Goodal Deep Clean Pore Glacial Clay Mask retails at Ulta

DK Cosmetics is also focused on bringing brands that have withstood the extremely fickle Korean market to the United States. To modify an old saying, if you can make it in Korea, you can make it anywhere. It’s precisely this challenging dynamic that has led so many smaller K-beauty brands expand to the relatively less turbulent

So Ae’s Snail EGF Mask retails at Ulta

market in the United States. These brands have a distinct advantage, said Lee and Kang, because Korea excels at affordable, quality beauty that truly works. With $3 sheet masks expanding across the United States and elsewhere, and popping up in social media feeds worldwide, more consumers are being initiated into K-beauty every day. n

ABOUT DK COSMETICS AND ITS BRANDS DK Cosmetics, based in New York, offers R&D and contract manufacturing services for skin care and beauty brands. It also owns a range of its own brands, including: • Soo Ae, a U.S.-only nature-based skin care brand that includes masks and skin cleansers. The brand aims to simplify the complex traditional K-beauty rituals for a U.S. audience at an affordable price. Soo Ae products are distributed via 3,000 Walmart stores (and growing), Target.com, Ulta.com, and is expanding in the U.K., Puerto Rican and South American markets. • L.O.C.K. Color, which offers color cosmetics for the millennial generation. • JKNLEE, a multimedia Korean lifestyle ambassador. DK Cosmetics also owns the Club Clio and Dr.G array of brands for the U.S. market. The company also operates seven brick-and-mortar Club Clio stores, including five in the New York area. Club Clio’s brands include: • Clio Professional, the “MAC of Korea,” which includes eye, lip and base makeup. • Peripera, Clio Professional’s cuter and more playful “little sister.” • Goodal skin care, which features fermented ingredients in formats such as skin mists, eye creams and cleansing foams. The brand has launched in 305 Ulta stores nationwide, with some low-end SKUs offered at Target.com. • Derma Dr. Lab, a skin care sub-brand owned by Dr.G, which is powered by biofermented actives, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients. The brand’s range comprises toners, water balancing creams and serums and has launched in Target and Walmart (in more than 600 doors). • Dr.G, legacy K-beauty brand that popularized bb cream. Dr.G is the top beauty brand in Korea, where it performs well in the “Sephora of the East,” Sasa. The brand offers makeup-skin care bridge products that provide coverage and care. It operates 18 clinics in Korea, which serve as testing grounds for new products and devices. In the United States, the brand retails at Nordsrom and Dermstore, as well as Amazon.

Soo Ae’s Donkey Milk Skin Gel Mask (Aqua) retails at Target

Gel www.GCImagazine.com

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MARKETS & TRENDS

Breaking Trend: Beauty Sleep

“Sleep—both in terms of quality and quantity—is a key pillar in today’s well-being practices, along with mindful eating and physical fitness,” noted Karen Doskow, Kline Group’sd director, consumer products, in a recent analysis. The growing evidence regarding sleep quality’s effect on health, cognition and other wellness factors has led to range of innovations, she notes. In addition to the growing innovation behind mattresses (think Casper), companies have launched a slew of sleep-centric concepts from apparel to technology, including: Recovery Sleepwear from UnderArmour and the Sleep Number 360 smart bed and Zeeq Smart Pillow. The beauty industry has long provided consumers with products to enhance consumers’ appearance overnight or upon waking. thisworks’ www.klinegroup.com

Sleep Plus Hair Elixir

Examples include Erno Laszlo’s HydraTherapy Memory Sleep Mask, La Prairie’s Skin Caviar Luxe Sleep Mask, Tony Moly’s Hair Zayo Hair Sleep Pack and Rodial’s Super Acids Sleep Serum. But Doskow points to more recent innovations that take beauty into a more The Provision line includes the Dream Extract, a blend of organic, ecocertified clary sage and Italian bergamot, with musk and amber, and proactive role in sleep Australian-sourced Indian sandalwood. The extract can be misted onto the and wellness. For user’s sheets and pillows before bed “to evoke a sense of peace and deep instance, Sensorwake’s relaxation,” or spritzed onto one’s clothes during the day “to evoke your Oria, a bedside dream atmosphere.” electronic device that releases a relaxing scent to lull users Beauty zzZz supplement; Lush’s to sleep, followed by the release of a calming pre-bed Twilight Bath Bomb; second scent over night to encourage a L’Occitane’s Aromachologie Relaxing “longer and more regenerative sleep.” Perfumed Sachets; thisworks’ Sleep Sleep-centric beauty products Plus Hair Elixir, which relaxes the also include Perricone MD’s Sleep hair and contains lavender, vetiver, Booster, “a supplement [comprising chamomile, argan, jojoba, baobab, ashwagandha and velvet bean extract] sunflower extract and vitamin E; and that assists the body to fall into a Provision’s Dream Extract Room & healthy sleep cycle”; Hum Nutrition’s Linen Spray. n

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THE INDUSTRY LEADER IN PATCH TESTING TEST WITH THE BEST! • FDA REGISTERED •

“THE FINE ART OF PERSONAL SERVICE”

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MARKETS & TRENDS

AMAZON WANTS TO DISRUPT THE WAY YOU CREATE, PACKAGE AND SELL PRODUCTS From cashier-less physical stores to delivery drones to in-home AI systems, Amazon seems to be at the center of every retail conversation. But a string of recent reports shows that the ecommerce giant is looking to reshape the way products are created, packaged, sold and delivered. Do brands have any choice but to cooperate? Bloomberga reports that Amazon has invited a number of top brands such as General Mills and Mondelez to attend a May event at which the retailer will try to “persuade them that it’s time to start shipping products directly to online shoppers and bypass chains like Walmart, Target and Costco.” The event is co-hosted by SCM World, whose board includes Unilever and Kimberly-Clark. Such a move would be a big blow to Walmart, Target and other leading retailers, but it would also reshape how products are built, shifting from a shelf-first design ethos to one that focuses on digital-first. This means less fussy packaging and a complete rethink of the central goals of product design. Big brands may be reluctant to refuse Amazon’s overtures. But, as Bloomberg reports, “[Ken Cassar, an analyst at Slice Intelligence] notes that Amazon has 300 million shoppers and can make its own products if brands aren’t willing to sell on its marketplace. ‘Fear, more than anything else,’ Cassar www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-03-30/ amazon-wants-cheerios-oreos-and-other-brandsto-bypass-wal-mart

Target is trying to expand its order online/pickup in-store concept by adding dedicated order pickup sites in its forthcoming store revamps.

says, ‘may compel these companies to pay attention.’” Beauty brands are already struggling with Amazon to keep control of their distribution and brand reputations. A recent court case in Germanyb saw Coty striving to preserve the distribution rules for luxury brands such as Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Chloe. German retailer Parfumerie Akzente, which sells on platforms such as Amazon, told Germany’s top court that this brand policy amounted to an anticompetitive stance. http://kfgo.com/news/articles/2017/mar/30/cotysays-not-against-online-sales-wants-to-protectluxury-brands/

nytimes.com/2017/03/25/technology/amazonwants-to-crush-your-store-with-its-technologymight.html c

Meanwhile, Amazonc is rolling out ever more physical stores, which, in addition to solving the retailer’s experiential and tactile deficits, allow it to effectively establish mini product warehouses with close consumer proximity, which can be used to deliver goods to consumers within hours or even minutes. Retailers such as Target have made similar moves, focusing on smaller stores closer to consumers. These shops can house goods for online order/in-store pickup or even for rapidresponse online delivery. Target, which recently unveiled its plans for 600 store revamps (by 2019), included concepts for dedicated online order pickup stations in stores. But is it enough? n

Trends, insights and breaking news every business day:

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 12 Markets & Trends Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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Clinical Research Laboratories, LLC

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DATA & INSIGHTS

• Consumers focused on healthier lifestyles are driving natural, organic and better-for-you beauty care. • Most natural categories grew in 2016, though cosmetics lagged due to a lack of expansion into the mass channel. • While brands are benefitting from these trends, consumers are scrutinizing ingredient labels and ethics legacies to inform their purchasing decisions.

@GCI_Magazine

Data & Insights

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facebook.com/gcimagazine

Global Cosmetic Industry

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MARKET REPORT:

NATURAL BEAUTY CARE Sales figures, category breakdowns and insights into consumer and brand drivers.

he market for brands that are positioned as natural has evolved from what is often described as “crunchy,” or somewhat aesthetics-averse, to a more sophisticated design-centric and technology-forward ethos. At the same time, these brands have expanded from the natural retail niche to every channel, from mass to premium. Here, Global Cosmetics Industry presents the latest market data available on the market, as well as insights into what’s driving the category and where it’s headed.

www.GCImagazine.com

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U.S.: A Wellness-driven Natural Market Manufacturers’ sales of natural personal care products reached $5.7 billion in 2016, up 9.2% from 2015, according to Kline Groupa (F-1). Consumers’ increasing focus on wellness—from diet to exercise to self-care—are a leading factor behind this growth, according to Naira Aslanian, project manager of Kline’s consumer practice (see Better for You Beauty). This awareness centers on ingredients, particularly consumer wariness around conventional/synthetic a

www.klinegroup.com/reports/y632series.asp

Data & Insights

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DATA & INSIGHTS

U.S. Consumer Attitudes on Natural and Organic Personal Care (NOPC)** Why They Buy

Why They Don’t Buy

67% of NOPC consumers are trying

79% of non-NOPC users avoid the

to live a healthier lifestyle, compared to 54% of non-users

49% of NOPC consumers consider them safer and of better quality than conventional alternatives

42% of NOPC consumers believe that NOPC products are better for the environment

37%

of co ns more umers b ough NOP t C in com 2016 pare , d to 2015

category due to cost, compared to conventional products

47% of non-NOPC users don’t want to switch from their existing products 43% of non-NOPC users believe natural and organic claims are simply marketing schemes

32% of NOPC consumers say these products give them peace of mind

Reading the Ingredient Label

55%

of NOPC consumers judge a product’s naturalness or organic status by the familiarity and simplicity of ingredient lists

86%

look for “no artiﬁcial ingredients” claims

49%

factor in how easy the ingredients are to understand

81%

look for “contains organic ingredients” claims

49%

assess NOPC products by which ingredients are excluded

88%

look for claims such as “made with all natural ingredients”

**Natural and Organic Personal Care Consumer US 2016; http://store.mintel.com/natural-and-organic-personal-care-consumer-us-december-2016

Data & Insights

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Meet the Parents

34%

of parents with children younger than 18 bought more NOPC products in 2016, compared to 2015

53%

of parents buy NOPC products, compared to 34% of non-parents

NOPC purchasing habits: parents vs. non-parents Hair care:

50% parents 34% non-parents Facial skin care:

51% parents 32% non-parents Body cleansing products:

48% parents 34% non-parents

www.GCImagazine.com

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Generation DIY

20%

of consumers aged nine to 21 (in 2016) believe NOPC claims are a means for brands to charge more money

19%

of these consumers prefer to make their own beauty care products, compared to 12% of the overall market

Data & Insightsâ&#x20AC;&#x192;â&#x20AC;&#x192; 17

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DATA & INSIGHTS

OGX (pictured) and Hask were two brands that led growth in the natural hair care sector in the last year.

The natural makeup segment has lagged behind other categories, in part due to a lack of mass retail growth for the latter segment. That hasn’t slowed innovation, however, including by the no-water brand Pinch of Colour, which offers a range of beauty products, including the Matte Velvet Waterless Lip Colour, which is formulated with rose hip oil, jojoba oil and mango seed butter.

Whole Foods Market celebrated Beauty Week 2017 with the hashtag #CleanBeautyFaves and offered beauty bags comprising brands such as Dr. Hauschka, evanhealy, Juice Beauty and Trilogy.

F-1. U.S. natural beauty care sales *and

market share by product class

Total 2016 sales: $5.7 billion, up 9.2% from 2015 Oral Care

Fragrances

7% %

Makeup

Hair Care

Key takeaways from the 2016 market, according to Aslanian, are:

11%

43%

15%

materials, has boosted a desire for natural formulations. Brands have responded with a spectrum of offerings, from wholly natural to partially natural to what Aslanian describes as “natural-inspired.” Brands excelling in this sector include Farmacy, Honest Beauty and Beautycounter.

Skin care

23%

• Facial treatments are a leading growth driver in skin care, which comprises the majority of U.S. natural beauty care product sales. • “Other toiletries,” the category’s second-largest segment, has experienced strong growth in personal cleansing products. • Natural hair care sales have outpaced those of natural makeup, in part due to a lack of mass retail growth for the latter segment.

Better for You Beauty Other Toiletries Kline’s Natural Personal Care Global Series report; www.klinegroup.com/reports/ y632series.asp

“Parents are information seekers when it comes to raising their kids and, therefore, could be more aware of ingredients to avoid in their children’s personal care products, as well as their own,” said Jana Vyleta, health and personal care analyst at

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Mintel.b “This presents an opportunity for natural and organic personal care brands to target parents, as they should incentivize them to purchase both adult- and child-specific products.” She added, “To increase sales and household penetration, players should work to reduce skepticism evoked by fragmented and confusing claims, and emphasize purchase motivators, i.e. safety and quality. A focus on simplicity and familiarity continues to resonate with shoppers more than certifications or less familiar claims.” The trend resonates for adults as well—parents or not. Recently, The Honest Company introduced more than 30 SKUs into Target, including the Truly Kissable Lip Crayon and the Refreshingly Clean Gel Cleanser, which tout “safe, botanically driven ingredients,” which the retailer described as “one step toward our goals focused on offering our guests better-for-you products free of unwanted chemicals.” Target previously brought natural-skewing brands such as Beautycounter, Fig + Yarrow and S.W. Basics to its shelves and ecommerce. Honest Company founder Jessica Alba noted, “I believe that everyone deserves to have access to clean beauty products … When it comes to beauty, women often compromise from the neck up. I believe Honest Beauty can go head-to-head with conventional [products] when it comes to pay-off and performance.” Recently, Whole Foods Market celebrated Beauty Week 2017 with the hashtag #CleanBeautyFaves. The retailer celebrated the week by offering beauty bags comprising brands such as Dr. Hauschka, evanhealy, Juice Beauty and Trilogy. Whole Foods Market has notably disallowed more than 75 ingredients from the brands it carries, including b Natural and Organic Personal Care Consumer US 2016; http:// store.mintel.com/natural-and-organic-personal-care-consumerus-december-2016

F-2. U.K. natural beauty care sales and

market share by product class*

Total 2016 sales: GBP 700 million, up 7.8% from 2015 Fragrances Makeup

6% %

Oral Care

5% %

Hair Care

14%

49%

Skin care

24% Other Toiletries Kline’s Natural Personal Care Global Series report; www.klinegroup.com/reports/ y632series.asp

phthalates, microbeads, triclosan, BHT, BHA and aluminum chlorohydrate.

Ethics and Safety Lead Naturals in the United Kingdom Manufacturers’ sales of natural personal care products in the United Kingdom amounted to more than GBP 700 million in 2016, up 7.8% from the previous year, according to Kline Group (F-2). Like their U.S. counterparts, U.K. consumers are driven to the category by concerns over harmful ingredients, as well as a desire to purchase products from brands that have staked ethical positions in sourcing and environmental impact issues. Furthermore purchasing decisions can be motivated by “Made in Britain” claims, Aslanian notes. Key takeaways for the U.K. market include:

The Birkenstock brand recently introduced its Birkenstock Natural Care brand, comprising 28 beauty care products powered by cork extract, as well as key ingredients such as arctic moss, argan oil, baobab, moringa, elderberry and botanical hyaluronic acid. The launch highlighted the evolution of natural brands from “crunchy” to design- and technology-centric. www.GCImagazine.com

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• Skin care comprises nearly half of the natural beauty care market and represents some of the category’s fastest growth. This expansion has been due in part to the rise of indie brands such as Skin & Tonic and Aurelia Probiotic Skincare. • Personal cleansing products from brands such as Lush and The Body Shop have propelled the “other toiletries” naturals category. • Hair care brands such as Aveda are leading growth by excluding ingredients of concern, including sulfates and phthalates. n Data & Insights 19

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DATA & INSIGHTS

U.S. Bath & Body

Market Report The rise of male grooming, multifunctional and natural products are creating dynamic growth.

• U.S. “other toiletries” market value, 2016: $11 billion (Kline Group) • Largest U.S. category: personal cleansing products (Kline Group) • Key trends: Multifunctional products, natural claims, unique textures, male grooming.

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Global Cosmetic Industry

Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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he “other toiletries” market in the United States was valued at approximately $11 billion at retail level in 2016, up 2.7% from 2015, according to figures from Kline’s Cosmetics & Toiletries USAa report. The market breakdown by product category is presented in F-1. According to Naira Aslanian, project manager of Kline’s consumer practice, shaving products recorded the strongest growth due to the entrance and phenomenal growth of direct-selling brands such as Dollar Shave Club, the billion dollar company acquired by Unilever in 2016, which recorded more than 40% growth last year, and Harry’s, a similar online retailer. a

www.klinegroup.com/reports/cia1.asp

F-1.

In personal cleansing , Aslanian noted, SheaMoisture has recorded more than 50% growth in the category. The brand’s roots lie in the multicultural hair care segment, but has since expanded its portfolio into personal cleansing and a natural positioning.

Specialty Retail Specialty retailers and the experience they bring is key, said Aslanian. Brands such as Lush—with a natural positioning and fresh, handmade cosmetics that bring the consumers an in-store experience—have recorded healthy growth in 2016.

Male Grooming Male grooming is making waves across categories, with men paying more attention to the way they look, said Aslanian. In personal cleansing,

Other toiletries U.S. market breakdown by category, 2016; total value: $11 billion Depilatories, waxes and bleaches

Shaving products

Deodorants and antiperspirants

30%

62% Personal cleansing products

Source: Kline’s Cosmetics & Toiletries USA report; www.klinegroup.com/reports/cia1.asp

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Data & Insights

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DATA & INSIGHTS

Brands such as Lush—with a natural positioning, fresh, handmade cosmetics that bring the consumers an in-store experience—have recorded healthy growth in 2016.

Dove Men+Care has become one of the largest, strongest brands, recording more than 10% growth. The segment appears poised for continued growth, particularly among millennials. According to an incosmetics Global 2017 presentation from Lia Neophytou, associate analyst at GlobalData.com, millennial men are willing to increase the number of beauty grooming products in their routines in order to improve their appearance. According to Neophytou, 72% of millennial men believe their looks and appearance are important, while 44% have been made more selfconscious of their appearance due to social media. The boom in the male grooming space has led to a range of disruptive

SheaMoisture has recorded more than 50% growth in the body care category.

Pacific Shaving Company’s Single-Use Shaving Cream Minis

innovations. For example, Pacific Shaving Company’s Single-Use Shaving Cream Minis offer portable shaving cream in MonoSol’s food-grade dissolvable packet, which releases premeasured lather upon contact with water in the palm of the user’s hand. The brand is available at Target, which has expanded its male grooming game with brands such as Harry’s. “We’re always asking what can’t we put in a packet that dissolves in water,” said P. Scott Bening, MonoSol’s president and CEO. “We have seen success in laundry detergents, automatic dishwasher detergents, food coloring, and pool and spa products in water-soluble film, so why not enhance

Harry’s is one of the direct-selling brands driving growth in men’s shaving.

convenience in personal care products? With Pacific Shaving Company, we’re unleashing a new, innovative way to deliver shaving cream.” “By taking cues from adjacent market categories with respect to form, function, and packaging, SingleUse Shaving Cream Minis are at once completely new and completely familiar to consumers,” said Stan Ades, co-founder of Pacific Shaving Company. “Like laundry and automatic dishwasher single doses, we expect the Minis to change the way people shave, particularly in a world striving for convenience.” Meanwhile, Switch Fresh introduced a demo of its eco-friendly refillable deodorant, which featured gliders on the side of each bottle that allow

SwitchFresh aims to bring disruption to the male deodorant category.

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users to move the product and attach and detach the deodorant cartridges (available in 2.5-oz and 5-oz sizes). “Switch Fresh is the world’s first replaceable deodorant that reduces plastic waste and inspires individuality with unisex scents and personalized designs,” the company’s Indiegogo page noted in February. “This patented deodorant bottle utilizes replaceable deodorant cartridges and reduces the amount of disposable waste by 96%, compared to traditional deodorant bottles. Our unique design is an eco-friendly alternative to the 800 deodorant bottles the average person will dispose of in their lifetime.”

Amway recently introduced its G&H body care collection, including the G&H Nourish+ line, comprising “restorative body care.”

Multifunctional Products Personal cleansing products that promote hydration and moisturization, with naturally infused ingredients are popular among consumers, who are trending towards one product with multiple benefits. For example, Perfekt’s water-resistant Body Perfection Gel firms and tones the skin, while adding a “sunkissed color.” The gel can be applied to the legs, arms, décolleté and elsewhere. Vita Liberata’s Body Blur Instant HD Skin Finish for the face and body masks imperfections and reflects light for healthy-looking skin. The product, available in Latte Light and Mocha, can be used alone or under foundation. Dr. Brandt Skincare’s alcohol-free Cellusculpt Body Shaper & Cellulite Vita Liberata’s Body Smoothing Cream Blur Instant HD comprises caffeine and Skin Finish comes with a massage applicator to reduce the appearance of cellulite. The product also offers skin hydration to resolve dullness and uneven texture, as well as a loss of firmness and elasticity. On the natural front, Amway recently introduced its G&H body care collection, including the G&H Nourish+ line, comprising “restorative www.GCImagazine.com

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body care [to] help nourish, comfort and maintain healthy looking skin with a rich, exclusive blend of naturally derived and botanical ingredients.” The range’s ingredients include shea butter, organic pumpkin seed oil and orange blossom honey in the following formats: Body Lotion, Body Wash, Complexion Bar and Hand Cream. Brands are finding other ways to enhance the consumer experience. For example, P&G’s Duo Dual-Sided Body Cleansers ($9.99) have added new functionality to the brand’s products in the Olay, Old Spice and Ivory brands. The cleansers feature scrubbing and smooth sides that are water-activated for a rich, bubbly lather that conforms to the skin. The disposable cleansers are designed to be used for up to 30 showers.

Bath and Body Works’ CocoShea Honey Bath Shower Jelly Data & Insights 23

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Texture and Format Innovations Like the broader beauty care sector, bath and body products have begun to incorporate unique textures and a formats to elevate consumers’ sensorial experiences. For example, Bath and Body Works’ Signature Collection CocoShea Honey

Josie Maran’s Whipped Argan Oil Body Butter

Bath & Shower Jelly ($16.50) has been a sell-out success for the brand. The product contains cocoa butter, and shea butter for a jelly that transforms into a creamy conditioning foam as it’s applied to the skin. Josie Maran’s hydrating Whipped Argan Oil Body Butter is “packed with luscious oils and whipped to a featherlight texture.” The velvety-textured product comprises shea butter, white tea extract and avocado oil, and is available in a range of fragrances such as Juicy Mango, Sweet Citrus and Honeysuckle Vanilla. Sol de Janeiro’s fast-absorbing Açaí Body Power Cream is formulated for everything from normal to oily to sensitive skin and resolves dryness and uneven texture and tone. In addition to açaí oil, the formulation comprises cupuaçu butter, coconut oil, extra-fine mica flecks and an açaí fragrance. Finally, Deborah Lippmann’s Marshmallow Whipped Hand &

Sol de Janeiro’s Açaí Body Power Cream

Cuticle Scrub contains AHA and BHA to “purify and revitalize skin by lifting dead skin cells from the skin’s surface and clearing pores to reveal soft, smooth, and glowing skin.” n

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FRAGRANCE CREATION FROM THE SOURCE

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BEAUTY INFLUENCERS

BEAUTY MARKETING: GLOBALIZING TRUST Word of mouth rules, whatever the language.

Instagram has more than 300 million monthly users, 34% of which are in the Middle East and Africa.

| BY SOURABH SHARMA, Fig or out

hile legacy beauty brands may have a legendary history that allowed them to grow globally, today they are micro-segmented, both by region and technology. Marketers face a challenge in translating the definition of beauty across cultures, and digital and social media platforms further call into question the globalized nature of brands.

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Trusted Voices One fact remains unanimously true across regions: the trust in word of mouth. Worldwide, consumers increasingly trust their friends, family or favorite influencer on social media above brands. A staggering 92% of consumers turn to people they know or trust for referralsa, with word of mouth generating double the sales www.tapinfluence.com

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F-1. How large and small brands utilize influencers of paid advertising . In addition, 84% of fashion and beauty brands have launched at least one influencer campaign in the last year, resulting in a more than 81% increase in web traffic and salesc. b

80%

Product Launch

100% 88%

Ongoing promotions 40%

Influencers at Every Scale Large and small brands use influencers for different purposes, depending on objectives and budgets (F-1). On average, brands of any size earn up to $6.50 in sales for every $1 spent on influencer marketingd.

Mapping Social Media’s Reach An influencer’s reach depends on their social media prowess, which depends on digital platform penetration in their countries of influence. Facebook has more than 1.1 billion daily active users, with 85% outside of the United Statese. Instagram has more than 300 million monthly users—including 25% from North America. By contrast, Pinterest is led by North America (33%), with other notable audiences split across Asia and the Middle East. Dark social media, a term coined for web traffic not attributed to a source, includes things like pasting links into emails or text messages. This type of activity accounts for half of overall Internet traffic. Consumers also use tools like WhatsApp, a cross-platform text-messaging app, which has been installed in more than 90% of phones in Latin America and India, but fewer than 10% in the United States. Brands must understand and harness such differences when aiming to reach consumers with a global marketing strategy. www.mckinsey.com

40%

Content creation

80% 48%

Events

48% 35%

Corporate communications 16%

Other

12%

Small Brands 20%

Source: FIG or out

Localization Matters Brands must understand their markets from both a psychographic and technological uptake perspective. For example, Maybelline New York successfully translated its brand identity to Malaysia by launching a #DaretoNeon campaign on Instagram, which tripled its regional penetration in two years to 5.5 million. The launch of the brand’s Baby Lips Electro Pop lip balm harnessed three distinct segments of influencers, which represented Malaysia’s vastly different groups of women. The influencers created buzz and invited consumers to participate in a fan challenge: posting a neon-inspired photo for prizes. The campaign generated 700 hashtags, including #Neon2AM, #NeonGlitz and #NeonTM, and resulted in a reach of 300,000 people and an engagement of 128,000f.

www.flyingpointdigital.com

http://blog.tomoson.com/influencer-marketingstudy/

www.socialbakers.com/statistics/facebook/

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Large Brands

f http://simplymeasured.com/blog/howmaybelline-used-instagram-influencers-to-boostthe-daretoneon-campaign

Dove’s iconic #RealBeauty campaign jump-started sales from $2.5 billion to $4 billion over the ensuing decade.

Similarly, with the #SwipetoSpice campaign in India, Maybelline consumers mouthed Bollywood dialogue wearing Baby Lips Spiced Upg. Entries were submitted over social platforms, as well as WhatsApp, thereby expanding reach. g https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=Y6dZh1U8sR4

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BEAUTY INFLUENCERS

Consumers use tools like WhatsApp, a cross-platform text-messaging app, which has been installed in more than 90% of phones in Latin America and India, but fewer than 10% in the United States. Brands must understand and harness such differences when aiming to reach consumers with a global marketing strategy.

Timing Is Everything Not all brands have budgets to manage a global list of influencers, but can still learn from brands that are able to execute global campaigns courtesy of impeccable timing. For example, during New York Fashion Week SS2017 in September 2016, Maybelline launched a global campaign crafted specifically for the time-sensitive global event. The brand partnered with 15 social media influencers who shared their pictures with hashtag #MaybellineItGirls, either backstage, or participating in or attending shows. The content generated 3.6 million likes, with a total of 2.2 million video views. Benefit Cosmetics launched its brow collection in Las Vegas in the spring of 2016 at an event touted as “Bene-Vegas,” 28

Beauty Influencers

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During New York Fashion Week SS2017, Maybelline launched a global campaign crafted speciﬁcally for the time-sensitive global event; pictured are a selection of products and looks from the Jason Wu show.

Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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featuring 93 vloggers and Instagram influencers, including Linda Hallberg of Sweden and Dalal Aldoub of Kuwait. The goal was to use the timeliness and technology to spread awareness simultaneously and consistently, given that the brand operates more than 1,800 brow bars worldwide. The event created tremendous buzz. Aldoub expressed how the brow collection would work in the climatic heat of her country, a simple but distinct insight that fortified the brand’s global reach.

The Challenge of Defining “Beauty” While color cosmetic brands can often alter their palette hues to match regional tonal variations, skin care is a relatively challenging category. The perception of “good skin”, especially skin fairness, is rooted in culture. While tanning is prevalent in Western markets, the desire to be fairer and lighter meets with polarizing opinions in Asia. Racial undertones aside, a scientific reason is that the first sign of aging in Asian skin is pigmentation, not wrinkles.

With a desire for even skin tone, Asian consumers generally embrace products claiming lightening or brightening benefits. Consequently, 50% of consumers in Asia find such products to be a high priority in their regimen, compared to only 24% in North Americah. Nonetheless, the articulation of fairness claims still sparks controversy. Women of Worth launched a “Dark is Beautiful” campaign, with actress Nandita Das as an influencer, which resonates with the notion of embracing your beauty. It has been running successfully since 2009 with a loyal social media following.

Beyond Influencers Regardless of the digitization of marketing, the fundamental principle of trust still holds true. Inspired by the impact of influencers, some brands have leveraged trust by connecting more emotionally with consumers. Dove epitomized this in 2004 by launching a global campaign spanning San Francisco, Delhi, Shanghai, www.datamonitor.com

Women of Worth launched a “Dark is Beautiful” campaign, with actress Nandita Das as an influencer, which resonates with the notion of embracing your beauty.

London and Sao Paulo, in which women entered a building through two doors marked “Beautiful” or “Average.” Most women picked the Average door, confirming that 96% of women do not find themselves beautiful. In an effort to have women embrace real beauty, the campaign not only won awards but jump-started sales from $2.5 billion to $4 billion over the ensuing decade. Dove recently launched regional versions of its iconic #RealBeauty campaign. In India, it was themed “Let’s Break the Rules of Beauty,” which subtly evoked a similar notion to the Women of Worth concept. Instead of influencers, the campaign featured women from different regions, professions and ages, highlighting that #RealBeauty comes in all shapes, sizes and complexions, thereby garnering praise for living up to the brand’s legacy. Variations like the one in India exemplify how fortifying trust and connecting emotionally can lead to global brand success. n

SOURABH SHARMA has a keen

The launch of the brand’s Baby Lips Electro Pop lip balm harnessed three distinct segments of influencers, which represented Malaysia’s vastly different groups of women. www.GCImagazine.com

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eye for understanding consumer behavior. He adds perspective to marketing research from his years in brand management and product development at L’Oréal, where he launched hair color and makeup products for brands in Asia and North America. With a multifaceted background, Sharma enables the firms he works with to acquire a stronger understanding of their end users. Furthermore, he strives to extract value from the evolving brand-to-consumer interface through his social media research.

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BEAUTY BREAKTHROUGHS

Smart Packaging:

Bringing Brands

Alive

Innovations in technology enable brands to engage with consumers in dynamic new ways. | BY LAURA ZIV

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Beauty Breakthroughs

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magine that you’re in a store and a product on the shelf catches your eye. You want to learn more. When you tap the product with your smartphone, you receive all kinds of personalized content on your phone: the brand story, product news, ingredient information, video tutorials. It’s as though the product has come alive and is anticipating all your questions, delivering relevant and dynamic content as you are making your

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purchase decision. That reality is here, thanks to smart innovations, including NFC (near field communication) tags, which transform conventional packaging into an everpresent digital communication channel with customers, wirelessly transmitting information at the point of sale, and continuing to deliver customized benefits (refill reminders, freshness alerts, usage tips) long after purchase— especially for beauty products that are used daily.

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In addition, connected packaging collects consumer habits, behavior and other data, providing brands with new levels of intimacy that may be applied to future product development.

“Intelligent” Products Smart packaging is defined as packaging that has active functions beyond just containing and protecting the product. “At a high level, smart packaging is essentially a conversation between people, brand and objects,” according to Moor Insights & Strategya, a leading high-tech analyst firm. With smart packaging, form becomes a part of function. Products are no longer inert, they become “interactive, aware and intelligent,” delivering sensory experiences, added functionality and enhanced consumer engagement. Not surprisingly, the global smart packaging market is poised to grow rapidly, reaching $52 billion by 2025 (including personal care, beauty, food, healthcare and pharmaceutical industries), according to a report published by Research and Markets.b www.moorinsightsstrategy.com www.researchandmarkets.com

GET CONNECTED AT LUXE PACK NEW YORK Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief of Global Cosmetic Industry, will host a panel of connected/ smart packaging experts during the 2017 Luxe Pack New York event, featuring Erwan Le Roy, ThinFilm Electronics; Christophe Bianchi, Feeligold; Bruno Savage, Seram Americas; and Séverine Badin, Arjo Solutions. Date: May 11 Time: 1:00 PM Location: Luxe Pack New York; Pier 92, New York City www.luxepacknewyork.com

The internet of things (IoT) is also growing fast. By 2020, more than 50 billion objects will be connected to the internet, according to Cisco, the high-tech multinational that specializes in networking hardware. Brands will be better able to personalize their

communications to customers and, in turn, people will increasingly expect brands to preempt their needs. Here are some examples of how smart packaging innovations are transforming the beauty brand experience.

Tapping into Differentiation

La Roche-Posay launched its My UV Patch in 2016, a stretchable sensor that is thinner than human hair, as pliable as a temporary tattoo and worn on the skin to monitor UV exposure. www.GCImagazine.com

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Companies such as ThinFilm believe that NFC will become a critical technology in connecting everyday items that don’t have electronic components or batteries directly to consumers. “Tapping products with a smartphone will become more common over time until it is second nature,” said Bill Cummings, senior vice president of corporate communications at ThinFilm Electronics, a Norwegian company that manufactures the smartphonereadable NFC tags that are integrated within packaging for tapping in-store, on-the-go and during the consumption phase. “Brands are able to deliver authentication messages, promotional offers, repurchase alerts, and other contextual content that strengthens relationships, builds brand loyalty and drives sales.” Beauty Breakthroughs 31

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BEAUTY BREAKTHROUGHS

Recently, E Ink Holdings partnered with Texen on a customizable packaging display concept for makeup compacts, perfume bottles and other cosmetic packaging.

He added, “In discussions we’ve had with cosmetics/beauty companies, from leading global firms to smaller boutique brands, we hear there are two key needs: first, because competition is so intense and there’s a major battle for a consumer’s attention and wallet, brands need a way to better connect with customers and differentiate their offering. Second, particularly for many of the larger brands, counterfeiting is often a major concern and costs the industry billions of dollars globally each year, not to mention the impact on consumer confidence. Our NFC technology, supported by cloud-based software and tag integrations services, is uniquely

SMART PACKAGING IN ACTION: REAL-TIME SKIN ANALYSIS Hali Power Co. has launched a line of MiLi Pure skin hydration detectors that perform a biometric impedance analysis via a simple metal sensor that can be pressed directly on the skin. The analysis uses electrodes to measure the speed at which a current passes through the body. Because water is an electricity conductor, the sensor can presume that the less hydrated the skin is, the more resistance it will measure. The MiLi sensor can determine a person’s skin moisture levels on the face and hand area within five seconds and feed the results (normal, oily or dry skin) to the consumer’s smartphone via a Bluetooth-enabled app. In this way, the technology allows consumers to track the effectiveness of their skin care in real time.

Packaging Specs The Pure line includes the MiLi Pure Bottle, which has a two-year battery life and incorporates the MiLi Pure Hydration Sensor in the lid of a 20 ml or 30 ml refillable skin cream travel bottle. The MiLi Pure Spray, on the other hand, embeds the MiLi Pure Hydration Sensor to the base of a refillable facial misting device that uses ionic technology to penetrate the basal cell layer of the skin to shrink pores and moisturize skin.

What Data Gets Captured MiLi’s Cosmetic Weight Sensor tracks levels of product left in the bottle to determine usage habits, while the skin sensor tracks the user’s skin moisture levels by day, time and month. If the user chooses, they can disclose their skin type, age, skin color and condition. The device can also track frequency and timing of use, as well as which skin areas experience the least and most dryness. The data collected can potentially create accurate seasonal skin health statistics, according to MiLi. Brand partners receive only the information of the users who own their products.

The MiLi sensor can determine a person’s skin moisture levels on the face and hand area within five seconds and feed the results (normal, oily or dry skin) to the consumer’s smartphone via a Bluetooth-enabled app.

The Benefits for Brands and Consumers The MiLi Pure Bottle can gather user data that can be applied to marketing, while users can receive in-app notifications on their connected phones when a product is running low. The app can also push customized incentive programs and remind users when to moisturize or scan their skin, as well as provide education on skin care, the brand and more. n

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In 2015, Smashbox, a brand noted for its heritage in makeup artistry, engaged consumers through the innovative use of conductive ink technology with its ShapeMatters Palette.

positioned to help brands of all sizes successfully address these issues.” Recently, E Ink Holdings partnered with Texen on a customizable packaging display concept for makeup compacts, perfume bottles and other cosmetic packaging. Powered by NFC, the display can be updated by smartphone. The E Ink and Texen partnership will allow consumers to brand their makeup compacts and perfume bottles, or write personal messages to gift recipients. For brands, the system can leverage product-phone connectivity to deliver targeted marketing. And the E Ink display modules can deliver information on specific beauty treatments based on weather conditions or other factors.

Invisible Interactivity Beauty products may be transformed into connected devices with conductive ink, also known as TouchCode technology, said to be the next generation of the QR code. The transparent ink works by embedding a thin layer of capacitive material in printed items like labels or product packaging. When the paper is held up to a touchscreen, it acts like invisible fingers activating a

TouchCode-enabled app or website. Consumers are able to access information and learn how to achieve a desired look. In 2015, Smashbox, a brand noted for its heritage in makeup artistry, engaged consumers through the innovative use of conductive ink technology with its ShapeMatters Palette. The kit of eyeshadows and face powders included three video-interactive Get the Look Cards “to make contouring easy for your face, eye and brow shape.” By touching the card to their phone, users were connected to Smashbox. com/ShapeMattersPalette, where they could view instructional demo videos, with easy-to-follow techniques from makeup artists. This was especially appealing to millennials, who are drawn to interactive and personalized experiences.

Monitoring Beauty Tech La Roche-Posay launched its My UV Patch in 2016, a stretchable sensor that is thinner than human hair, as pliable as a temporary tattoo and worn on the skin to monitor UV exposure. Developed by L’Oreal’s technology incubator in conjunction with healthcare technology company MC10, My UV Patch contains photosensitive

dyes that gauge baseline skin tone and change color when exposed to UV rays. Wearers can take a photo of their patch and upload it to a smartphone app. The app will then analyze the photosensitive dye squares on the patch to determine whether the user should apply more sunscreen or leave the sun altogether. Following the launch of La RochePosay’s My UV patch, forward-thinking brands will increasingly be linking packaging and product concepts with smartphones, creating connected beauty experiences.

Packaging Gets Active Active packaging allows for the safeguarding of products with fewer preservatives such as parabens, in keeping with the drive for more natural cosmetics. The technology embeds preservatives within the packaging, rather than the formulation, creating a reservoir of preservatives. Acticospack, a European consortium of companies, has been working on active packaging technology to reduce the use of cosmetic preservatives by 25–40% in applications such as shampoo, skin creams and sun care, while extending product shelf life and monitoring freshness. The group’s packaging uses a controlled release of preservatives to remain below threshold level in the product. This is just the tip of the iceberg for smart packaging. Consumer engagement with brands via packaging will become the norm as smart technologies continue to evolve. n

LAURA ZIV is a creative brand strategist specializing in beauty, fragrance and personal care. Her work spans trend analysis, innovation, ideation and concept development for brands. Ziv has a Master of Arts from Oxford University, and previously worked as a magazine writer and editor for international magazines based in New York.

Trends, insights and breaking news every business day:

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SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING AS SEEN AT THE CEW PRODUCT DEMO CEW recently held its annual Product Demo in Manhattan, featuring more than 800 products from indie startups and top multinationals, providing a view of where the industry’s innovation is heading. Here, Global Cosmetic Industry has selected a few choice highlights from the show. DSM unveiled its Wrinkle Rebel demo product, which contained its Syn-Ake peptide technology based on the venom of the Malaysian temple viper, offering preemptive wrinkle defense for millennial consumers. “The dramatic rise in anti-wrinkle injectable cosmetic procedures amongst today’s millennials clearly signals that they are not waiting until they have wrinkles to fight them,” said Parand Salmassinia, vice president of DSM Personal Care North America. “American millennial women are amongst the most engaged beauty consumers, and we must have an effective cosmetic solution for this rising beauty need.” Masking highlights from the CEW demo included the Yes to Inc. Acne Fighting Paper Mask, Dr. Brandt Skincare Magnetight Age-Defier (pictured), Bonvivant Botanical Real Sheet Mask (Mint Tea Tree) and Glamglow Gravitymud Firming Treatment. e.l.f. featured its hydrating bubble mask, which retails for $14 and fizzes to remove excess dirt from the face, while reoxygenating the skin. The formulation includes licorice extract and purified water.

i i f o p t c p S

P 6 i u $ a

Dr. Brandt Skincare Magnetight Age-Defier

G e.l.f. presented its hydrating bubble mask.

DSM presented an anti-aging demo product for millennials.

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Dr. Dennis Gross displayed its Hyaluronic Marine Hydrating Modeling Mask.

Dr. Dennis Gross displayed its Hyaluronic Marine Hydrating Modeling Mask, which forms a unique rubbery texture on the face that is easy to peel off following application. The mask’s striking blue color makes the application particularly Instagram- and Snapchat-friendly. Patchology featured the PoshPeel Pedi Cure, a PoshPeel Pedi Cure 60-minute treatment that includes an activating essence that is poured into foot masque socks, unleashing up to seven days of peeling action. The product retails for $25 for two treatments. The essence comprises glycolic, salicylic, lactic and citric acids. The Beauty Chef presented its beauty-from-within and -without concepts, including the Glow-Getter, comprising the Glow Advanced Inner Beauty Powder, comprising bio-fermented ingredients such as anti-oxidants, vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, amino acids, prebiotics and probiotics, as well as the Dream Repair Cellular Serum, which repairs and rejuvenates the skin Glow-Getter during the sleep cycle. n

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SIO’s Overnight Décolleté Wrinkle Smoother ($99.95) helps to eliminate wrinkles caused by sleeping, sun damage and natural aging. The pad uses medical grade silicone to restore hydration and allow skin to normalize collagen and protein production for better reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.

Supergoop Invincible Setting Powder SPF 45 ($30) is a 100% mineral, sweat-resistant formula that sets users’ makeup, reduces shine and delivers broad spectrum UV and environmental protection.

L Catterton, which previously invested in Kopari, Bliss, Cover FX and many other beauty companies, has invested in hot indie probiotic prestige skin care brand Tula to drive “rapid growth” by supporting marketing and product development funding. Tula now retails via QVC and SpaceNK. According to Rachel Ungaro, vice president of buying for apparel, accessories, beauty and jewelry, QVC, “In 2016, Tula generated a 78% increase in distinct customers, exceeding our expectations.”

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SKIN/SUN/ANTI-AGING

OleHenriksen has relaunched its brand with streamlined regimens that draw from its Scandinavian roots, which is on-point amidst the hygge craze. The color-coded lines are segmented among skin care concerns and include: The Balance Collection (oily skin), The Truth Collection (brightening, anti-aging, hydration), The Transform Collection (evens skin tone and texture) and The Nurture Collection (for sensitive skin).

Mychelle’s Perfect C PRO Serum (at left) is formulated with stable 25% L-ascorbic acid to improve the skin texture and reduce visible signs of aging. The concentrated vitamin C formula helps brighten the complexion and provide antioxidant, anti-pollution and anti-aging benefits. Ideal for mature or damaged skin, the serum also features CoQ10 to protect stressed skin for a more luminous complexion.

Matis Paris’ anti-aging Réponse Intensive serum is housed in a 15-ml Virospack dispenser dropper pack, in which the push button dropper and vial are encased in a shiny silver metal shell.

Lipoid Kosmetik has launched HerbaShield URB (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract (and) Equisetum Arvense Extract (and) Sodium Chloride), a COSMOS-certified botanical active that provides natural protection for skin against urban pollution.

Codif Technologie Naturelle has introduced Areaumat Perpetua (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Helichrysum Italicum Extract), which soothes sensitive skin instantly, reinforces the skin barrier and reactivates defense mechanisms, which are weakened by stressful life triggers.

SMD Cosmetics International’s Inhyunjin line of anti-aging K-beauty products features fermented probiotic ingredients, as well as niacinamide, mulberry, goji berries and red ginseng extract.

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Mibelle Biochemistry has launched InfraGuard (INCI: Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Water (aqua)), a combination of Caesalpinia spinosa tannins and an extract of sunflower sprouts, which protect the skin from infrared radiation aging. In vitro studies showed this ingredient blocks the formation of reactive oxygen species and inhibits MMP-1 up-regulation in fibroblasts after infrared irradiation.

Gattefossé has launched Gatuline Link n Lift (INCI: Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract), which has been found to help the skin to fight matrix degradation and stimulate the synthesis of major components involved in epidermis-dermis cohesion. At 2%, the ingredient acts on all eye contour wrinkles, including crow’s feet, under-eye area and tear troughs.

Naturally `SASÉ Skincare’s Travelux Face Care Set ($52) features travel-size multifunctional products ideal for on-the-go consumers, including a Hydra-Purifying Cleanser 3-in-1 and Advanced Hydra-Illuminating Skin Therapy 4 in 1.

Sytheon has launched HydraSynol IDL (INCI: Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate), a stable version of linoleic acid, which improves the appearance of skin by building and maintaining a healthy barrier function.

Nyakio Kamoche Grieco has partnered with Sundial Brands to create a namesake line of skin care products based on Grieco’s family recipes. The collection, which retails at Ulta for $22-49, focuses on ageless beauty and includes Sweet Almond Cleansing Oil Balm, Marula & Neroli Brightening Oil, and Quinoa De-puffing & Firming Eye Cream.

38 Skin/Sun/Anti-aging Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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Bacteria-rich Beauty Mother Dirt’s probiotic approach to skin care.

an a specially engineered bacteria be strategically applied to the body to support hygiene and treat a range of maladies, including acne and eczema, wounds, hypertension, allergic rhinitis and migraines? AOBiome, the parent company of “bacteria friendly” personal care brand Mother Dirt, is on a mission to find out.

What Is Clean? Hygiene is one of the modern world’s signature achievements. Think of Clorox, which touts its role in life’s “Bleachable Moments.” But are we doing it wrong? Questioning the benefits of certain hygiene behaviors— showering, excessive handwashing, the application of conventional deodorants, etc.—is at the core of research that began in 2001 with an MIT-trained chemical engineer, David Whitlock, who wondered why mammals roll around in the dirt as part of their natural cleanliness rituals. Whitlock soon realized that certain elements of modern humans’ hygiene practices had disrupted the natural bacterial biome on their bodies, potentially doing more harm than good. So he founded AOBiome and set out to research the application of specially engineered ammonia oxidizing bacteria (AOB) that, under specific conditions, could potentially have a positive impact on a range of issues. These bacteria “convert ammonia to nitrite, an antimicrobial compound, and nitric oxide, a well-documented signaling molecule in the inflammatory process,” according to the company. This “peacekeeper bacteria,” as the company calls it, is as versatile as a Swiss Army knife, allowing AOBiome

Jasmina Agonovic, president of Mother Dirt, has facilitated a dialogue between consumers and the firm’s clinical activities.

to produce various formulations comprising a single organism that can potentially yield a broad range of positive health and hygiene outcomes. Because the manufacture of bacterial mixes is profoundly complicated, the use of a single bacteria allows the company to simplify the application of its technology.

Starting the Bacteria Conversation AOBiome tested out its AOB concept on a small batch of people who showered only with water and then doused themselves in the company’s live bacteria. The experiment was entertainingly documented in a popular 2014 New York Times story by Julia Scott, “My No-Soap, No-Shampoo, Bacteria-Rich Hygiene Experiment.”* The experiment and the public interest stirred by the article allowed AOBiome to define its place in an important public health conversation about conventional products and hygiene practices. AOBiome has researched the application of specially engineered ammonia oxidizing bacteria (AOB) that, under specific conditions, could potentially have a positive impact on a range of skin issues.

* https://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/25/magazine/my-no-soap-noshampoo-bacteria-rich-hygiene-experiment.html

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It was then that Jasmina Agonovic, now president of Mother Dirt, joined the AOBiome team to establish the company’s consumer-facing side, which has facilitated a dialogue between consumers and the firm’s clinical activities. Aganovic explained to Global Cosmetic Industry that AOBiome was able to partner with early adopters, described in the New York Times piece, who were willing to experiment with the restoration of a more natural bacterial biome on their bodies. This experimentation generated the company’s early anecdotal evidence, which it could leverage for future research, and to address a wider unarticulated need to reset humans’ relationship with bacteria and contemporary hygiene standards.

Probiotic vs Bacteria-rich Conventional consumer product brands tend to back away from any mention of bacteria in their products, instead opting for the more genteel term, probiotic. Examples include Clinique’s Redness Solutions Makeup SPF 15 with Probiotic Technology, Biossance’s Squalane + Probiotic Gel Moisturizer, Pacifica’s Probiotic Rehab Cream and Andalou Naturals’ Probiotic + C Renewal Cream. But Mother Dirt, which asks consumers to “Rethink Healthy Skin,” is up front about its biome-friendly products, which it claims will “restore and maintain good bacteria on your skin.” Agonovic explained that the brand seeks to challenge the consumer by being honest about the use of live bacteria.

A Biome-friendly Beauty Routine Mother Dirt now offers the live probiotic AO+ Mist ($49), a Biome-Friendly Moisturizer for the face and body ($34), a biome-friendly Shampoo ($15), and a biome-friendly foaming Face & Body Cleanser ($15). Agonovic noted that AOBiome is scientifically driven but realistic about the consumer journey. As users of the mist began to understand the greater symbiotic balance of the skin, as well as concerns about conventional preservatives, they began to seek out

Mother Dirt isn’t shy about discussing bacteria in all of its branding, whereas most conventional brands might prefer to use more polite terminology, such as “probiotic.” www.GCImagazine.com

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Mother Dirt’s product range includes a bacteria-rich spray and ancillary biome-friendly personal care.

supplemental products for cleansing and moisturizing. Thus, the shampoo, moisturizer and cleanser, which contain no live bacteria, were introduced. The supplemental products, which contain no live bacteria, also serve as a gateway for consumers who are curious about preserving their natural biome but are not yet ready to spray live organisms onto their bodies. Mother Dirt is keeping its product range simple and stripped down, making it easy to swap in against conventional products. Agonovic added that the limited range is aligned with Mother Dirt’s position as a functional— not pampering—brand. Which points to a brand opportunity. Because Mother Dirt’s brand is gender-neutral, roughly half of its consumers are men. Agonovic noted that there could be opportunities to produce more gender-specific applications in the future. Perhaps microbiome-friendly makeup?

The Future of Bacteria-treated Skin True to Mother Dirt’s ethos, Agonovic repeatedly made clear distinctions between potential applications for AOBiome’s research and the current state of the science itself. That said, AOB has an astonishing array of potential applications that are either currently the subject of AOBiome clinical research or in the company’s research pipeline. For instance, the bacteria may have a role in treating inflammatory skin diseases such as acne, eczema and rosacea, Agonovic explained. However, the time horizon is long due to the complexity of clinical research required to substantiate effective, easy-to-use products with low to no side effects. If successful, AOBiome could introduce viable topical alternatives to harsh treatments such as Accutane. Currently, the company is about to begin a stage-two trial for its acne treatment. While the research continues, Agonovic stressed that microbiome treatments for a range of health issues and consumer needs are coming—it’s just a matter of who and how. She warned, however, that those firms that don’t properly substantiate their claims could mar the perception of the science. n Skin/Sun/Anti-aging 41

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HAIR Madison Reed: Disrupting the Hair Color Experience CEO Amy Errett on the power of algorithms and data, her omnichannel strategy, and what’s next for the tech-savvy brand. Madison Reed founder and CEO, Amy Errett

raditionally, women who wanted to color their hair would have two options. First, they could go to a pharmacy or other retailer, purchase a product containing ingredients that they knew little about and apply the odorous and messy product at home using poorly conceived instructions. The result? Potential hair damage and underwhelming color results. The second option was to go to a salon for an expert treatment. The differences between the $10 experience and the $150 experience left a void that Madison Reed (www. madisonreed.com) founder and CEO Amy Errett focused on when building her at-home color brand.

consumers to take Madison Reed products to their salons for application. This created interest among salons to carry the brand, which has since expanded to QVC, Sephora and other retail channels. The brand’s latest launches are the Vivids and Bombshells collections. Vivids comprises five shades—Volterra Amethyst, Rimini Garnet, Savona Scarlett, Carrara Crimson and Matera Marigold—that offer a “gem-like dimension and shine.” Bombshells, which is free of bleach and ammonia, comprises three natural-looking blonde shades: Ferrara Golden, Acona Natural and Prato Ash.

Formula for Disruption

Madison Reed’s ability to enable on-demand customization for consumers comes down to its proprietary algorithm. Consumers can determine their ideal color by filling out a 12-question color quiz online or on the Madison Reed Color Advisor app. The app’s Color Assistant can be voice-prompted to connect a user with a professional Madison Reed colorist. Consumers can also skip the quiz and simply snap a selfie of their hair and allow Madi, the brand’s hair color chatbot, to select their ideal shade. Whatever path the consumer takes, the algorithm enables greater convenience and specificity, while still offering a human connection for those seeking it.

Errett disrupted the at-home color category by going directly to the consumer with salon-quality products, eliminating potentially irritating ingredients such as ammonia, parabens, resorcinol, PPD, phthalates and gluten from the formulas, improving the application process and instructions, and leveraging technology to simplify shade matching. The brand gained traction with consumers, as Errett had anticipated. What she hadn’t expected was for

It’s All About the Algorithm

Data: the Gift That Keeps on Giving

Madison Reed Radiant Cream Color

Madison Reed is based in San Francisco and behaves more like a tech company than a traditional beauty brand. Errett noted that the legacy beauty care industry centers on building products and brands. Madison Reed, instead, is built around the core component of its DNA—technology. The company’s 15 engineers are continuously improving its digital functionality, while strategizing about its next technological leap. While any brand’s products must perform as the consumer expects, Errett said that technology can boost satisfaction, convenience and personalization.

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The CEO recently told Global Cosmetic Industry that, to date, the Madison Reed algorithm had collected about 2 million hair profiles. Through machine learning, the algorithm gets smarter with every analysis. And all of that data belongs to the brand. By taking direct ownership of its customers’ data— rather than relying on retail middlemen—Madison Reed has a distinct market advantage. Madison Reed’s algorithm allows it to know precisely who its customers are and what they need. Conventional CPG companies generally don’t have these direct relationships with customers, which explains much of the M&A activity The Madison Reed Color Bar in New York among digitally savvy direct-toconsumer brands. Data teaches brands a lot about the consumer, Errett said, Errett said that the Color Bar offers convenience, speed and referred to it as the “gift that keeps on giving.” Madison and efficiency, as well as brand immersion. It also allows Reed is able to apply its consumer insights to product consumers to experience the ease of the brand’s products, extensions and to boost average order value. which should ideally encourage them toward home application. The density of the New York market is useful for Madison 45 Minutes, $45 Reed to build awareness of its products, prove efficacy and Like any good brand in 2017, Madison Reed is focused encourage repeat purchases. Errett stressed, however, that on an omnichannel strategy. The company recently opened the Color Bar is not a core area of focus for overall revenue its first Color Bar in New York’s Flatiron District. In 45 growth. That, she said, will remain in the digital realm, with minutes, customers can get a $45 root touchup, or select supplemental growth from Madison Reed’s retail partners. a color gloss ($35) or blowout ($35). They can also receive a personalized color tutorial and shop the full line of Doubling Revenue Madison Reed’s products. Madison Reed will remain singularly focused on hair color, said Errett. The brand has new products launching this spring, as well as a new retail partner, Ulta Beauty. In the meantime, Madison Reed continues to focus on innovative R&D and leveraging its data to continuously improve products and the brand experience. To support its growth, the company recently appointed former Clorox VP Heidi Dorosin as chief marketing officer. Dorosin is charged with shepherding the brand as it expands store locations and pursues an “aggressive” goal to double revenue. n Madison Reed Color Reviving Gloss www.GCImagazine.com

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Botanic Innovations has launched NatureFresh Cold Press Cucumber Seed Oil (INCI: Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Seed Oil), which can be applied to hair and scalp care formulations, as well as anti-aging treatments, calming botanical serums, moisturizers and clarifying therapies. Cucumber seed oil is rich in linoleic acid and supports the lipid barrier.

The Ritual Hair Care Line includes Enhance Ritual Biphasic Infusion ($45), Design Ritual Style Soufflé ($32), Hydrating Ritual Supreme Revitalizing Mask ($43), Hydrating Ritual Replenishing Hair Cleanser ($26) and Hydrating Ritual Replenishing Cream Conditioner ($28). The hair care collection works on both the inside and outside of the hair, providing weightless, concentrated ingredients that hydrate to a healthy shine. Key ingredients include black tea, green tea, white tea and African red blush tea.

For use on wet or dry hair, Liquid Dust ($27) provides volume with or without heat. The texture spray activates and re-activates with each touch or brush throughout the day. The spray uses silica silylate to add texture, volume and body to the hair.

The Caviar Hair Care by Hair Chemist line includes caviar-infused Caviar Shampoo ($9.99), Caviar Conditioner ($9.99), Caviar Hydra Gelee ($10.19) and Caviar Hair Mask ($10.79). Formulated with vitamins and omega-3, the collection caters to dry and damaged hair. The brand is available at Sally Beauty in-store and online.

dpHUE’s Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse, which was on display at the recent CEW product demo in New York, is a shampoo and conditioner alternative that contains aloe vera, argan oil, fire tulip and lavender extract to thicken the hair while repairing dead skin cells on the scalp and adding shine to the hair.

Coconut Breeze Elasticizer by Philip Kingsley ($32/75 mL; $53/150 mL) has notes of bergamot, orange and soft peach. The intensive, conditioning pre-shampoo treatment helps add elasticity, bounce and shine to all hair types. The brand retails at www.philipkingsley. com, the Philip Kingsley Trichological Clinic in New York City and select salons.

Naturex has introduced Tillandsia (INCI: Tillandsia Usneoides Extract) to its Eutectys botanicals range. Tillandsia usneoides, also known as angel’s hair, obtains moisture from fallen water on its stems and leaves, and stores it in its plump tissues until needed during dry periods. Naturex has applied the plant’s extract to enhance hair suppleness and increase manageability, while decreasing friction and improving combability, in a demo product called Flexi Hair Cream.

44 Hair Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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Hair stylist and colorist, Amanda George has launched her new brand, ROIL (royalty with oils). The line ($35-53) comprises a shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, body wash and hand wash, each of which has been crafted using a blend of oils, including: wild rose hip oil, grapeseed oil, amla oil, avocado oil, bringha oil, rosemary oil, jojoba oil, chamomile oil and coconut oil. The brand’s hotel collection will be available at Viceroy Hotels & Resorts worldwide, while the private collection of full sized 300ml bottles can be purchased at www.roilife.com.

Jeen has introduced a new preservative alternative, Jeecide AA (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Sorbic Acid), which is useful for natural and organic formulations, meeting preservation needs for products such as shampoos, conditioners, skin care serums, creams and lotions.

Pantene recently introduced its “Strong is Beautiful” campaign to celebrate the launch of the Gold Series, its eight-piece hair care collection co-created with a team of African American PhD’s, scientists, stylists and dermatologists, formulated to provide strength and moisture for women with relaxed, natural and transitioning hair.

www.GCImagazine.com

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MAKEUP AS SEEN AT THE CEW PRODUCT DEMO

CEW recently held its annual Product Demo in Manhattan, featuring more than 800 products from indie startups and top multinationals, providing a view of where the industry’s innovation is heading. Here, Global Cosmetic Industry has selected a few choice highlights from the show. Vegalash unveiled its natural vegan lash enhancement serum, which leverages phyto technology to produce thicker, fuller Vegalash lashes within 15 days. The event also included a range of multifunctional hydrating makeup such as Milk’s Holographic Stick (pictured), Revlon’s Ultra HD Milk Makeup’s Gel Lipcolor and Clinique’s Pop Matte Lip Color Holographic Stick + Primer.

Goodbye passive tutorial videos. Perfect Corp. has applied augmented reality to live streaming on its YouCam Makeup mobile beauty platform. Consumers will be able to apply looks in real time, while beauty influencers will be able to host educational shows, tutorials, DIYs and product reviews. Consumers can purchase features during broadcasts. The e.l.f Beauty Break Lounge at this year’s SXSW festival hosted the debut of YouCam Makeup’s live streaming network, featuring e.l.f. beauty picks and how-to tutorials.

Albéa has launched 10 new products in lipsticks, applicators and tubes, including Parisian Kiss, a lipstick mechanism developed for creamier formulations; the Exquisite applicator from the Generous Gloss collection, which is intended for precise applications; and the Excess Lash range of fiber mascara brushes, including the Ecstasy brush for a curled, voluminous look.

The multicultural cosmetic company, Milani, has premiered 15 new products to expand its collection of affordable makeup. The range includes: Retouch + Erase Light-Lifting Concealer, Prime Light Face Primer, Strobing + Pore Minimizing, Prep + Set + Glow Illuminating Transparent Face Powder, Make it Dewy Setting Spray, Hydrate + Illuminate + Set, Contour & Highlight, Cream & Liquid Duo, Spotlight Face & Eye Strobe Palette, Stay Put Matte 17HR Wear Liquid Eyeliner, Eye Tech Extreme Vinyl Liquid Eyeliner and Keep it Clean Longwear Lip Color Remover.

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Clove + Hallow’s collection of vegan Lip Crèmes and Lip Glazes are formulated with a simplified roster of 15 or fewer ingredients to meet EU standards, though they are made in the United States. The Lip Crème ($19) is available in nine shades, including Frosting, Desert Rose, Ballerina Slippers, Creamsicle, Blooming, Sugared Plum, Flaming Coral, Damsel and Psych. The Lip Glaze ($13) provides shine without stickiness and features six colors, including Bubbly, Angelic, Candied Hearts, Prep, Mai Tai and Spicy.

www.GCImagazine.com

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Dark Star 006 Makeup Kits by Pat McGrath Labs are available in three versions inspired by the blackness of space: UltraViolet Blue ($130) includes UltraViolet Blue pigment, Astral White pigment, Mercury pigment, Dark Matter pigment, Cyber Clear eye gloss, Black SmudgeLiner eye kohl and Blender Brush; UltraSuede Brown ($130) includes UltraSuede Brown pigment, Astral White pigment, Mercury pigment, Dark Matter pigment, Cyber Clear eye gloss, Black SmudgeLiner eye kohl and Blender Brush; and Dark Matter ($95) includes Dark Matter pigment, Astral White pigment, Mercury pigment, Cyber Clear eye gloss, Black SmudgeLiner eye kohl and Blender Brush.

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MAKEUP

Smashbox Cosmetics celebrated the launch of its Be Legendary Liquid Metal and the Be Legendary Liquid Pigment by partnering with makeup artist Vlada Haggerty, who performed a live demonstration comprising more than 80 diamonds, totaling more than 6.5 carats and worth $26,500. The high-shine liquid pigments are available in nine shades for $24 each and are currently available at Smashbox.com, Sephora, Ulta, Macy’s, Nordstrom and SiJCP.

Groupon UK has launched prosecco-flavored nail polish. The edible polish is made with real prosecco and features a lightly sparkling finish in a gold hue. With a sweet, crisp flavor, the lickable polish mimics the appearance of bubbles when shaken well. Currently, Prosecco Polish is only available in the UK.

48 Makeup Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE

The Body Shop’s five new Elixirs of Nature fragrances are housed in 100% recyclable Neo Infinite Glass from Verescence. The material comprises: 90% recycled glass, 25% flint household cullet, 65% in-house cullet and 10% raw materials. According to Verescence, for every 1 million Neo Infinite Glass bottles produced, 71 tons of sand are saved, as well as preventing 45 tons of carbon emissions.

The Moisturizing, Relaxing, Revitalizing, Nourishing and Healing collections by Treets Traditions (Price: $12–26) feature formulas based on ancient traditions with a modern flair. The Moisturizing line protects and hydrates the skin using oils and seeds. Relaxing uses old traditions from Asia as an inspiration to create massage, bath and exfoliation products out of extracts and oils from flowers and plants. The Revitalizing line uses exfoliating herbal therapies to promote healthy beauty. Nourishing provides extracts from nuts and seeds to load the skin with healthy vitamins and nutrients, and the Healing line includes products that are made from herbs and oils that moisturize and heal the skin over time. The line retails at Ulta.

Niche fragrance has been one of the leading growth areas for the struggling fragrance sector, leading to a number of niche fragrance acquisitions by top multinational beauty companies. Most recently, LVMH has announced that it has acquired a majority stake in Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Under terms of the agreement, Marc Chaya and Francis Kurkdjian will continue in their current roles as CEO and creative director, respectively, and will remain shareholders of the company. The Maison Francis Kurkdjian brand retails in 40 countries; its namesake founder has worked on the supplier side of the industry, creating scents for brands such as Acqua di Parma, Christian Dior, Guerlain and Kenzo.

AS SEEN AT THE CEW PRODUCT DEMO There were many of natural offerings at this year’s CEW product demo, but Fur Oil ($44.00/75 ml) had one of the most unique, offering pore clearing and softening of pubic hair, underarm hair, beards and other sensitive areas. The formulation comprises grapeseed, jojoba, tea tree and clary sage oils. Meanwhile, the Olay Duo two-sided cleaning implement featured an exfoliating side and smooth conditioning side, creating a more experiential twist on legacy brands.

Fur Oil

Olay Duo

Seattle-based barbershop brand, Rudy’s, is relaunching its 1-2-3 showering system as a unisex product. The shampoo, conditioner and body wash system is scented with citrus, cedar and juniper, and is made with ingredients such as coconut, quinoa and jojoba. To coincide with the launch, Rudy’s is uniting with its longtime partner, the It Gets Better Project. For every purchase of the 1-23 products, Rudy’s will donate a week’s worth of 1-2-3 shower products to the homeless youth in the LGBTQ community.

50 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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The Grooming Kit ($20) by Dear Barber includes Beard Oil, Moustache Wax and a beard comb. The Beard Oil conditions dry and brittle hair to ensure an easier sculpting job; the Moustache Wax quickly sets the moustache while conditioning the hair for a healthy shine; and the comb allows for easy styling. Key ingredients include oat oil, jojoba oil and argan oil.

Designer Tadashi Shoji has launched his inaugural fragrance, Eau De Rose, available exclusively at Lord & Taylor and Macys.com. Inspired by gardens in Japan, Eau De Rose features feminine floral notes with an exotic finish. The scent comprises top notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit, rhubarb and black currant; body notes of rose, jasmine, osmanthus, lily of the valley and cedarwood; and endnotes of musk, frankincense, labdanum, patchouli, rose absolute and oudh. The Eau De Rose Collection includes: Eau de Parfum ($135, 3.4 oz./$110, 1.7 oz.), Rollerball ($27, 0.34 oz.) and Body Crème ($55, 5 oz.)

Zirh’s Body Bar - Vitamin Edition ($15) cleanses all skin types while moisturizing and relieving fatigue. Designed to be used daily, the body bar is part of Zirh’s line of face and body products formulated for men. Ingredient highlights: vitamins A, C, E and B5; orange, chamomile and cucumber extract; and oat straw. The product retails at www.zirh.com and Bloomingdale’s.

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BATH/BODY/GROOMING/FRAGRANCE

Oui Shave has launched its Blood Orange Himalayan Salt Body Scrub ($22), which increases circulation by using an exfoliating body polish; Neroli Santal or Lavan Shave Oils ($16), which protect the skin by hydrating and creating a barrier between the blade and the skin; and Himalayan Sea Salt & Lavender After Shave Toner ($32), which smooths the skin by treating irritation and ingrown hairs. Ingredients include: coconut oil, Himalayan pink salt, Dead Sea salt, rose clay, witch hazel, rosewater, willow bark extract, rose oil and lavender oil.

Virospack debuted a new dropper based on design, functionality and ergonomy. The curvature of the dropper allows it to take in 0.8 ml more than typical dropper, making it appropriate for body cosmetics that demand larger doses. The bulb is compatible with the full range of standard caps that Virospack has in its catalog.

Gaffer&Child has created a handmade food-grade unisex skin and hair care line comprising ingredients like lavender, olive oil, Dead Sea salt and cane in products including a serum, shaving cream, pomade, facial scrub, cleanser and exfoliator. The company uses a cold press extraction process for its ingredients, which reportedly preserves the effectiveness and integrity of the raw materials. The products are cruelty free and the company donates a portion of its profits to PETA. 54 Bath/Body/Grooming/Fragrance Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES

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www.baralanusa.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Classic Cosmetics, Inc.

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

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Clinical Research Labs, Inc.

1-732-981-1616

www.crlresearchlabs.com

Cosmetic Group USA, Inc.

1-818-767-2889

www.cosmeticgroupusa.com

Cosmopak USA/Cosmopak Europe

1-516-767-9119

www.cosmopak.com

Cosmoprof

www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Evonik

1-804-452-5616

www.elements-of-care.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

HCP Packaging

1-203- 924-2708

www.hcpackaging.com

Identipak Inc

1-956-630-4403

www.identipak.com

Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.

1-502-348-5159

www.inoacusa.com

Lipotec, LLC

1-201-850-1213

www.lipotec.com

Luxe Pack New York

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www.luxepack.com

Mane USA

1-973-633-5533

www.mane.com

McKernan Packaging Clearing House

1-775-356-6111

www.mckernan.com

Robertet SA

1-201-337-7100

www.robertet.com

schülke, Inc.

1-973-770-7300

www.schuelke.com

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

YonWoo/PKG

1-631-981-8701

www.pkggroup.com

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56 Products and Services Showcase Global Cosmetic Industry | May 2017

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THE PERFECTIONISTS BEHIND PICTURE-PERFECT.

For years, we’ve partnered with the world’s leading beauty brands in creating exceptional packaging. But true beauty is more than skin deep – and now our capabilities go deeper too. We’re putting our expertise to work with a full spectrum of packaging and product development solutions for beautifully integrated products that shine, inside and out.

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Because Fusion means partnership. Harmony.

B E AU T Y. M A D E E F F O R TL E S S .

A perfect marriage of form and function.

F U S I O N P KG . C O M | 8 6 6 . 5 8 7. 1 1 5 2

4/14/17 3:40 PM

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