CONTENTS JUNE 2016
n VOLUME 184, NUMBER 5
features 24 The Only Way is Up The global fragrance market points to a premium fragrance future. BY ORU MOHIUDDIN
28 Beauty Must Refocus on Experience What in-cosmetics revealed about the future of the beauty industry—from texture to sustainability to a reevaluation of time.
36 Making Personal Care Greener When it comes to the increasingly powerful aspirational consumer, sustainability is critical for brand image, creating new challenges and opportunities for suppliers and marketers. BY JENNIFER DONAHUE
40 Her Day in the Sun Inside the savvy minds of sun care consumers. BY DENISE HERICH
42 Cooking Up the Perfect Package, Part 1 A marketer’s step-by-step recipe for packaging development in any category. BY JOHN MORGAN
46 Vive la Organic Fragrance and Beauty From luxury to biotechnololgy, French organic brands are leading innovation. BY LAURA ZIV
52 Great Packaging Should Make Us Feel Perfumes are timeless, but packaging designs get more and more creative and unconventional. BY SHEHERAZADE FOROUGHI-CHAMLOU
departments 4 Spark: Beauty With a Conscience BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
6 Insights & Breakthroughs 10 Beauty Buzz 18 Brands & Benchmarks 22 Beauty Channels 50 Ingredients & Claims 52 Packaging Innovations
resources 54 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index
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Contents
1
EDITORIAL Director
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AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director
Linda Schmitt
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OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Skin Inc. magazine Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Northern California Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Southeast Spa Conference and Expo Perfumer & Flavorist magazine World Perfumery Congress Flavorcon
Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: United States—FREE one year; all other countries—US$89 one year, shipped by air. Single copy (U.S. Only), US$10. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective. Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2016. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.
Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA. Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com
2 Contents GCI June 2016
SPARK
n BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED
Beauty With a Conscience
JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine
GCI MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER
Coastal Salt & Soul
MARIE ALICE DIBON
Alice Communications, Inc.
ADA POLLA
Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group
ART RICH, Ph.D.
A. Rich Development
RICK RUFFOLO
R4 Innovations
CRISTINA SAMUELS
Mode Cosmetics
LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany
I
n its latest sustainability report, L’Oréal noted that it had reduced its carbon dioxide emissions in its plants by 56% while increasing production by 26%. Jean-Paul Agon, chairman and CEO of L’Oréal Group, stated, “We have continued to dissociate our growth from our environmental impact, proving that economic performance is clearly compatible with a commitment to protecting the climate.” According to Mintel (www.mintel.com), 18% of consumers will pay more for green products, whether for health or sustainability motivations, while 60% will favor green products that offer a money-saving opportunity. Meanwhile, figures presented by SolarCity and Clean Edge show that “72% of consumers want to learn more about corporate sustainability initiatives, 75% of consumers would be more likely to buy a product or service if the company is making an effort to be sustainable, [and] 82% of consumers are more likely to purchase a product that represents Corporate Social Responsibility than one that does not.” Whatever the consumer motivation, sustainability is a clear opportunity for brand leaders in every category. The impacts of sustainable initiatives are being felt at every stage of the supply chain. In ingredients, BASF has focused on the production of surfactants from certified sustainable palm oil and palm kernel oil, while Symrise and Natura have partnered on sustainable ingredients from the Brazilian Amazon. Meanwhile, top multinationals P&G and Colgate-Palmolive have forged no-deforestation commitments, while fragrance supplier IFF created what might be the first cradle-to-cradle fragrance, called PuraVita, and H&M introduced a line of Ecocert products, such as lip balm, body scrubs and hand creams. This represents just a fraction of the innovation underway in the beauty industry, promising good things ahead for the planet, its inhabitants and, of course, the beauty and personal care industry. I hope this month’s issue and its exploration of sustainability inspires new curiosities and ideas for you. Enjoy. n
4 Spark GCI June 2016
INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS Go Premium or Go Home The beauty industry was worth $425 billion in 2015, according to a new analysis by Euromonitor (www.euromonitor.com), driven by color cosmetics and premium beauty and challenged by slowdowns in China and Brazil. The United States and Asia Pacific were particularly strong markets for beauty. In China and the United States, skin care, color cosmetics and fragrance were top categories. Top premium beauty categories in descending order of growth were: • baby- and child-specific products • color cosmetics • fragrances • sun care • deodorants • skin care • bath and shower • hair care In a recent Euromonitor press briefing at in-cosmetics, the firm noted that color cosmetics will grow at 5.7%/$2.16 billion, sun care will rise by 5.6% and skin care will
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expand 4.7%/$1.38 billion through 2020. Premium BB/CC creams, lipsticks, foundation/ concealer, skin care sets/kits and men’s deodorants were particularly strong in North America. The U.S. BB/CC cream constant value CAGR from 2011 to 2015 was 133%, but will slow to 12% through 2020. Brow cosmetics also drove growth, leading to a 20% constant value CAGR for “U.S. other eye makeup” from 2010 to 2015. This growth is projected to slow to 13% through 2020. Lip products are projected to grow 5% through 2020, led by products offering glossy, plump, natural and vivid effects. Lash products will lead the eye cosmetics category, which will expand just 3% over the same period. Encouragingly, premium/niche scents will grow fragrance, which will add $1
billion in value through 2020, according to Euromonitor’s figures. All of this growth is forecast to increase U.S. sales by $5 billion through 2020. This makes North America’s rate of expansion greater than any other—across all categories, including sun care, deodorants, fragrance, men’s grooming, color cosmetics and skin care. n
Insights & Breakthroughs 5
INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS
L’Oréal Hair Research Moves Beyond Conventional Ethnic Groupings
Fast-trending Blemish Balm and Color Correction
Focusing on the technical limitations of adhering to conventional ethnic groups (African, Asian and Caucasian) in hair care, L’Oréal (www.loreal.com) has established four hair shape descriptors for greater accuracy: curve diameter, curl index, number of waves and number of twists. Recent research from the company has found that more than 80% of the world’s population has black to light brown hair, with nearly 50% having “dark or very dark brown” hair. The findings were part of the beauty giant’s study of the world’s hair diversity. Among key findings, L’Oréal discovered:
Technavio (www.technavio.com) has named the top five leading vendors in its global blemish balm and color correction products market report: 2016-2020. The market is fragmented, including regional and local brands, according to the analysis. “Product innovations through technological advancement is one of the fast-trending factor captivating vendors in the market and enabling them to develop advanced blemish balm and color correction products that generate better results,” said Brijesh Kumar Choubey, a lead analyst at Technavio for cosmetics and toiletry. The top players include (in no particular order):
• “African hair is characterized by both slow hair growth and low hair density” • “Chinese hair also has a low density but grows very fast” • “Caucasian hair grows at an intermediate rate per day and is very dense” • “Thick hair strands grow quickly, whereas thin hair strands grow more slowly” • “Curly hair is more fragile than straight hair” Regarding shape, L’Oréal researchers found that, “The bulb of curly hair is curved, while that of straight hair is straight in shape. L’Oréal biologists also found that the shape of the bulb is linked to asymmetry in cell differentiation programs. The curve of the hair is created by an internal mechanical force.” n
• Beiersdorf • Estée Lauder • Johnson & Johnson • L’Oréal • Shiseido n
Inverting Hair Routines Have we been doing it wrong all this time? According to a recent Mintel (www.mintel.com) analysis from Michelle Strutton, reverse washing— conditioning, rinsing and then shampooing— produces smooth, voluminous hair by leveraging the moisture of the conditioner without the residue. No hair repair system necessary. The analysis notes that perhaps it’s time for brands to get in on the act. Mintel points out that 65% of U.S. hair care users are interested in cleansing conditioners that provide results while minimizing damage. Low-cost brands could get in on the trend since price considerations drive 40% of U.S. shampoo and conditioner purchases. In addition, the trend is highly adaptable, meaning it can be customized for different hair styles and trendy pre-rinse hair routines, such as those from Asia. One beauty player, TRESemmé, has paired with celebrity Chrissy Teigen to launch a reverse-wash system, Beauty-Full Volume (pictured). The brand describes the process as follows: “Condition first to soften, then shampoo to wash away weight, leaving hair touchably soft.”
In introducing the partnership, Teigen said, “I’m thrilled to be teaming up with a brand that’s getting people to re-think their hair washing routine and encouraging them to reverse it up. This collection is a game changer!” n
6 Insights & Breakthroughs GCI June 2016
Research Delves Into Why People Age Differently Do you look your age? If so or if not, why? New research from Unilever and Erasmus MC University Medical Center Rotterdam is digging into that key question: How do we explain the difference between how old we look and how old we are? The results, according to the researchers, could “lead to new discoveries to help everybody look younger for longer.” “By learning the ‘secrets’ of those who look young for their age, we can find innovative ways to help everybody keep younger looking for longer in the future,” said Unilever senior scientist and study co-leader David Gunn, Ph.D. During the project, more than 4,000 people were assessed for their youthful appearance in facial photographs, involving more than 100,000 assessments of perceived age (how old they looked). The team then examined more than 8 million variants in the DNA of the participants to investigate whether those who looked young for the age carried different variants to those who looked old for their age. What the researchers found was that individuals with one form of a gene called MC1R looked two years older than those with a different form. “Our finding marks another step in understanding aging differences between people and provides new leads to identify the molecular links between perceived age, chronological age and biological age,” said study co-leader Professor Manfred Kayser from Erasmus MC University Medical Centre Rotterdam. He added, “The next step is to understand on the molecular level why looking younger implies that you are healthier, eventually allowing to comprehend healthy aging.” n
Be ‘Crazy’ When You Imagine New Products In this exclusive interview excerpt (see the complete version at www.cosmeticstoiletries.com), Philippe Auderset, Ph.D., IFSCC and SWISS SCC president, shares insights on what’s shaping innovation in the industry. GCI: What do you see on the horizon for the industry? PA: Formulation will become more and more sophisti cated, and epigenetics will become an interesting field. But the most important focus should be to ensure that customers truly understand the benefits of a product. Customers decide if a product will be a success or not, so making benefits clearly understood should be a priority for us all. GCI: If you could give advice to product developers or the industry, what would it be? PA: Feel free to be crazy when you imagine new products. Crazy ideas are the seeds from which new products will grow. Don’t filter out any crazy ideas you come up with. n
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Insights & Breakthroughs 7
INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS
Shiseido Expansion Localizes Innovation Think global, innovate local. Shiseido is boosting its R&D in the Americas as part of a larger effort to regionalize its R&D for maximum consumer relevance. The company recently unveiled its newly enhanced facility in East Windsor, New Jersey, which boosts its capabilities in consumer research, information development and product development. The site will collaborate closely with the New York-based Makeup Center of Excellence, which is headed by president Jill Scalamandre. The makeup site will serve as a global innovation center for the design, development and execution of prestige color cosmetics initiatives across the company in support of all of its makeup brands. Scalamandre, who previously held the role of chief marketing officer, skin care, at Coty, and senior vice president of philosophy, will oversee the testing of new product ideas, cultivation of expertise, and leveraging of consumer and market insights. “The Center of Excellence will also create and nurture new color brands and lead trans-formational projects within the makeup category,” Shiseido noted. Scalamandre added, “[W]e will work to drive innovation across all consumer touch points, help maximize the potential of Shiseido’s color brands and grow the company’s overall footprint in the category.” The launch of the Makeup Center of Excellence and expansion of the East Windsor site means there will be an increase in the number of researchers based in the United States, who will focus on regional innovation for “products based on consumer insights and values,” according to Shiseido. The East Windsor site has expanded from 6,600 square feet to 22,000 square feet, which will now house functions previously set in Japan, including development of product information, product safety assurance and intellectual property management. The Americas Innovation Center is just one of nine laboratories Shiseido maintains in key markets. Europe is home to the Center of Excellence in Fragrance, Japan houses the Center of Excellence in Skin Care, and the United States is the location of the Center of Excellence in Digital. “In order to enhance our brand value and build consumer loyalty around the world, we need to have an unsurpassed understanding of
From left: Marc Rey, president and CEO, Shiseido Americas; Masahiko Uotani, president and group CEO, Shiseido Co. Ltd.; Katsunori Yoshida, Ph.D., executive vice president, Americas Innovation Center; and Yoichi Shimatani, chief research and development officer, Shiseido Co. Ltd.
our customers’ behavior and attitude toward skin care and makeup,” said Masahiko Uotani, Shiseido’s president and group CEO. “We must then leverage our 100 years of cutting-edge research and development to create products that deliver incredible results, marketed in new and innovative ways that are relevant to our consumers around the world.” “This is an incredibly exciting time in the beauty industry, as the pace of innovation has never been faster, and the ability for consumers to provide direct feedback has never been stronger,” said Marc Rey, president and CEO, Shiseido Americas. “As we work to build even closer relationships with our customers in the Americas, we are taking a number of steps to ensure that we are well-positioned to understand and respond to consumer demand. The Americas Innovation Center will help facilitate deeper customer insights and unparalleled innovation in the Americas, which will in turn enhance product research, technology and development on a global scale.” n
Hair Propelling New Growth in Beauty Devices An analysis published last year by Mintel (www.mintel.com) detailed the growth opportunities for the beauty device market. Top device claims include acne elimination, cellulite reduction and body firming/toning, cleansing, facial rejuvenation and facial toning, and hair regrowth and removal. Now, Kline (www.klinegroup.com) has announced that the beauty device market will see a boost from appsupported hair regrowth products in Europe.
The Remington iLight Prestige Hair Removal Series capitalizes on the hair-removal device boom.
Top drivers include an aging baby boomer generation, as well as consumers’ willingness to try new devices. The hair removal segment comprised 23% of the European market last year, according to Kline. Notable launches include Spectrum Brand’s Remington iLight Prestige Hair Removal Series, Silk’n’s Infinity, Glide’s Xpress 300,000, Panasonic’s ES-WH80 and Beurer’s IPL 6000. Multifunctional products that merge two or more technologies (i.e., antibacterial and massaging activity) are all the rage. Kline highlights Silk’n’s Infinity hair removal devices, which comprise galvanic and HPL technologies, and Beurer’s Pureo Deep Clear Facial, which pairs a pulsating brush and LED blue light. “Hair regrowth has been around for over a decade, with HairMax being in the European market since 2002,” said Ewa Grigar, Kline’s project lead on the analysis. “This category grew at a dramatic rate in 2015, driven by improved technology, new devices, and continuously high needs from consumers for hair regrowth products. In 2015, HairMax introduced three new products into the market, including the brand’s first-ever, hands-free device: the HairMax Laserband 82.” n
8 Insights & Breakthroughs GCI June 2016
“Second Skin” Delivers Potential Fountain of Youth A “second skin” that can instantly erase wrinkles with application has been recently developed by scientists at MIT, Massachusetts General Hospital, Living Proof and Olivo Labs. According to an official press release from Olivo Labs and reporting from www.MITNews.edu, the silicone-based polymer temporarily protects, tightens and smooths skin. And with further development, the material could help deliver drugs to help treat skin conditions, such as eczema. “This ‘skin conforming’ platform brings with it transport properties that have significant promise to treat underlying conditions,” said Dr. Rox Anderson, Harvard professor, Olivo cofounder and dermatologist at Massachusetts General Hospital. “For eczema or sun protection as examples, this second skin platform can then serve as a reservoir for control-release transdermal drug delivery or SPF ingredients, a possibility we are currently pursuing in our lab.”
How It’s Applied
The two-step process begins with a clear cream or ointment placed on the skin. The second step is adding the catalyst cream or ointment which causes a cross-linking reaction that lasts 24 hours. This adherent layer on top of the skin is soft, yet mechanically strong, and invisible. The “second skin” is resistant to washing and rubbing.
The Results
In tests with human subjects, the researchers found that the material was able to reshape “eye bags” under the lower eyelids and also enhance skin hydration. This type of “second skin” could also be adapted to provide long-lasting ultraviolet protection, the researchers added. n
Global vs Local: Why Do They Buy? Global brands are overwhelmingly preferred around the world, in part due to consumers’ focus on brand origin. A brand’s origin is crucial for 33% of AsiaPacific consumers and 32% of Africa/Middle East consumers, according to the new Nielsen Global Brand-Origin Survey (www.nielsen.com). These factors are less crucial in markets, such as Europe, North America and Latin America. “Nearly 75% of global respondents, on average, say a brand’s country of origin is as important as or more important than nine other purchasing drivers, including selection/choice, price, function and quality,” Nielsen noted. The firm added, “Global brands are able to leverage their scale and expertise, research and development capabilities, and strong brand equity to provide high-quality and innovative personal-care products to local markets around the world.” Whether selecting a local or global brand, consumers worldwide focused on key factors such as price/value, positive brand experience, safe ingredients and processing, benefits, and brand sales and promotion. Meanwhile, local brands have the unique advantage of inspiring purchases by consumers out of a sense of national pride. This is less of an advantage in Europe and North America than elsewhere. “In a crowded retail environment, brand origin can be an important differentiator between brands, but sentiment varies by category and
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by country, and leveraging a powerful brand presence needs to be managed carefully regardless of whether it is global or local,” said Patrick Dodd, group president, Nielsen Growth Markets. “Ultimately, the brands that deliver on a strong value proposition and connect personally to consumers’ needs will have the advantage in any given market.” Global brands dominate consumer preference in categories, such as razors, shampoo and conditioner, cosmetics and deodorant. Global brands are also generally preferred in the categories of hand and body soap and toothpaste. These sentiments are notably less pronounced in Europe. “Global brands are able to leverage their scale and expertise, research and development capabilities, and strong brand equity to provide high-quality and innovative personal care products to local markets around the world,” said Dodd. “In addition, in some markets, the number of local brands is limited for non-edible categories, so consumers naturally gravitate to offerings from global brands because they are widely available.” n
Insights & Breakthroughs 9
BEAUTY BUZZ The Best Perfume and Fragrance Writing of 2016 Revealed Without early writings, including Sanskrit texts and references in the Koran and Bible, much of perfume’s history would have been lost. Today, the written word continues to be a potent tool for communicating the power, beauty and excitement of fragrance, which was recently celebrated in New York by the Perfumed Plume Awards. Founded by Mary Ellen Lapsansky and Lyn Leigh, the event honored excellence in writing in both digital and print formats. Each winner was presented with a check for $1,000 from the Perfumed Plume Awards and a brushed chrome “Apogee” pen by Cross, the official “Plume” award. The winners were: • Scent Stories in Mainstream Media, Digital: “That Unattainable Object of Desire: Avon Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve—the Anti-Avon Lady Perfume” by Mark Behnke for Colognoisseur • Visualization of Scent Stories, Magazines/ Newspapers/Digital: “Perfume as Opera: Madama Butterfly, Carmen and Turandot” by Jasia Julia Nielson for Michelyn Camen, CaFleureBon • Scent Stories in Mainstream Media, Magazines—Print & Digital: “Escape Artists” by April Long for Elle Magazine • Science of Scent Stories in Mainstream Media—Magazines/ Newspapers/Digital: “Flower Power: Scent, Identity and Culture in the Middle East” by Dana El Masri for Michelyn Camen, CaFleureBon • Scent Stories in Mainstream Media, Newspapers—Print & Digital: “Power Perfumes Return to the Scene” written by Rachel Syme for The New York Times • Fragrance Book Award: “Fragrant—The Secret Life of Scent” written by Mandy Aftel “Congratulations to the Perfumed Plume Awards for a very successful event that shines a spotlight on creative storytelling
From left: Perfumed Plume co-founder Lyn Leigh, award winner April Long (Elle Magazine), presenter and sponsor Donald Loftus (Parlux/Perfumania), and Perfumed Plume co-founder Mary Ellen Lapsansky.
exploring the art of fragrance,” said Westly Morris, senior vice president—fine fragrance at MANE and founding sponsor. “One art form writing about another art form—an inspiring blend.” “The Perfumed Plume is a wonderful way to challenge a writer’s skill in capturing the many facets of fragrance, ultimately leading the consumer to a newfound appreciation of scent and a trip to the fragrance counter,” said Jeb Gleason-Allured, editor in chief of Perfumer & Flavorist and Global Cosmetic Industry magazines. “We’re pleased to be associated from the very start.” n
events 2016 June 7–8—Anti-aging Skin Care Conference; London, U.K.; www.summit-events.com
July 13–14—Sun Protection & Anti-ageing Skin Care Conference; Hilton Hotel Singapore; www.summit-events.com
June 7—Fragrance Foundation Awards; New York, New York; http://fragrance.org
July 24–26—Cosmoprof North America; Las Vegas, Nevada; http://cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
June 9–10—innoCos; Istanbul, Turkey; http://innocossummit.com/
August 24–25—Indie Beauty Expo; The Waterfront; http://indiebeautyexpo.com
June 16–18—MakeUp in Paris; Carrousel du Louvre; http://makeup-in-paris.com June 13— Beauty Insider Series—Spotlight on Kiehl’s; The Union League Club – New York; www.cew.org June 13–15—World Perfumery Congress 2016; Miam Beach, Florida, Fontainebleau Resort; WPC.PerfumerFlavorist.com
September 7–8—in-Cosmetics North America; New York City, New York; www.in-cosmeticsnorthamerica.com September 7–8—MakeUp In New York; Brooklyn, New York; Grand Prospect Hall; www.makeup-in-newyork.com
June 16–18—Beyond Beauty Paris: Alternative Fragrance & Beauty; Paris, France, Carreau du Temple; beyondbeautyevents.com
September 13–14—Aerosol & Dispensing Forum and Packaging of Perfume, Cosmetics & Design (ADF&PCD New York—1st Edition); New York; The Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion; www.adf-pcd.com
June 21—Art of Packaging Award Gala; New York; The University Club; 1-212-925-2507
September 21–23—LuxePack Monaco; Grimaldi Forum; www.luxepack.com
10 Beauty Buzz GCI June 2016
BEAUTY BUZZ
Cosmoprof: Brands Need Support The market for sustainable/green/eco-friendly/clean, organic and natural beauty products is exploding, creating new opportunities for multinationals and small startups. As a result, Cosmoprof North America (CPNA), which will take place July 24–26, 2016 at Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, will unveil a new Discover Green section to its event. The dedicated area will include green beauty in all its permutations of wellness and environmental consciousness. Discover Green will feature companies that cover both the retail and spa distribution markets, as well as unique indies and “power brands.” “Each year we see an increase in the amount of exhibitors displaying natural products and an increase in our buyers’ interests in natural products to meet the growing consumer demand,” said Daniela Ciocan, marketing director, CPNA. “Discover Green was established to meet the needs for both; exhibitors now have a focused platform to promote their unique, eco-friendly brands and buyers have a curated, central location to discover them.” The launch follows previous additions to the show, including Discover Beauty, the multicultural Tones of Beauty and Discover Scent, as well as its Beauty Pitch mentorship and funding contest, highlighting the event’s status as a launchpad for newer brands and emerging trends. Recently, Ciocan spoke with GCI about the brands featured at the show, as well as the unique needs of startups.
The biggest challenge facing most companies is garnering the attention of retailers and distributors. GCI: What is the spectrum of stages of companies present at Cosmoprof North America? DC: CPNA exhibitors are mostly made up of small- to mediumsized companies seeking to develop their overall distribution. Larger multinationals do also attend but more specifically to meet with domestic and international distributors. GCI: For startups, what resources do they need most? DC: Most startups are cash-starved and looking for access to investment. In addition to monetary needs, having industry experts who can lend support or feedback is also important as he/she can provide necessary guidance with regards to allocating funds and creating a strategy for business growth. GCI: What are their biggest challenges? DC: The biggest challenge facing most companies, especially startups, is garnering the attention of retailers and distributors. Most startups struggle to get the necessary face-time to pitch their brand or even obtain valuable feedback. However, even before attempting to get their interest, finding who the key influencers and getting contact information is another big challenge. GCI: How does the Beauty Pitch support brands? DC: The Beauty Pitch is a launchpad for small and established companies. It provides tremendous exposure to the industry at large
Ella+Mila is just one of the small- to medium-sized brands using Cosmoprof as a distribution growth platform.
but more specifically access to investors. Smaller companies are being reviewed by angel investors, whereas the larger equity groups are looking at participants with more established businesses. Either way, the access to capital is the primary purpose for Beauty Pitch participants. In addition, brands have the opportunity to develop further distribution through collaborations with Amazon Launchpad and BSG CosmoProf. GCI: What are the opportunities for small beauty companies? What is the landscape like for small-scale organizations? DC: Consumers love the stories and people behind the brands. Using the power of the internet to push one’s message is a powerful and cost-effective tool. The same goes for ecommerce sales in that it provides brands better margins when compared to traditional retail distribution. When combined with strategic social media engagement, the return can be even higher. A great opportunity for networking and learning can come from associations like ICMAD who offer a plethora of information for building businesses and offer legal registry help. In addition, the association holds its annual ICMAD CITY Awards. This award is tailored for indie brands, providing an unbiased product review and simpler application process than other industry awards. In general, seeking award opportunities can be a great way to gain exposure and funding. The seal of award winners gives brands instant credibility and marketing cache. One final opportunity not to be overlooked is the power of trade shows for networking, branding and business development. For example, Cosmoprof North America brings together the world of beauty under one roof and offers several unique programs to help brands connect with buyers. As an example, the highly coveted and curated Discover Beauty area was specifically created for niche, smaller brands looking to build distribution. Key specialty retail buyers specifically attend the show to meet exhibitors from the area and are connected through one-on-one meetings during the show. Participating brands have gone on to great success. From TV shopping auditions and buyer programs, exhibitors have the unique advantage of meeting with multiple business prospects from around the world in one location. Those who take advantage of all the marketing opportunities available are able to use their show participation as a powerful business building tool. n
12 Beauty Buzz GCI June 2016
Elev8 Crowns the Leaders in the Eco-chic Beauty Tribe
A selection of brands on display at the inaugural Elev8 show.
Consumer awareness of the safety and sustainability of products is at an all-time high, as is a demand for ethical brands that perform well and offer a luxe experience. These were the drivers behind the inaugural eco-beauty event, Elev8, in New York, which featured 30 beauty brands that promised “non-toxicity, performance and luxury values.” One of Elev8’s creators, Amy Turner, described the event as “a chance for the industry to step inside the green bubble of non-toxic beauty without stepping outside the world of luxury.” The show was developed to bridge the gap between modern luxury and wellness, according to the organizers, who stressed that Elev8’s participating brands adhere to “non-toxic principles.” What makes a brand fit into this space? According to Elev8, those that commit to quality and performance. This small “tribe,” as one participant described it, requires careful curation and passion.
During the event, attendees spent 20 or even 30 minutes at select tables, showing a desire to engage with relevant brands. To that end, Elev8’s organizers are planning a “tightened” assortment of brands at future installments, one of which is poised to deliver clean beauty to London’s burgeoning market. Participating brands at the inaugural event included Little Barn Apothecary, LURK Fragrance, Captain Blankenship, and Mullein and Sparrow. Attendees included buyers, editors, makeup artists and bloggers. The event also crowned leaders in various award categories: • Sustainable Pioneer: Lurk • Best New Launch: Axiology • Best Breakthrough Product: Maya Chia • Best Performance: Precious Skin Elixirs • Best Packaging: Ayra Essentials • Best in Show: Strange Invisible Perfumes n
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Beauty Buzz 13
BEAUTY BUZZ
MONEY, MILLENNIALS AND THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
R
ecently, Fashion Group International (FGI; www.fgi.org) hosted a breakfast panel of beauty leaders from the worlds of media, private equity, retail and brands to discuss shifts in consumer mindsets, brand opportunities, investments and M&A, and more. Global Cosmetic Industry was on hand to cover the proceedings.
The Niche Explosion The beauty industry has undergone parallel explosions in the amount and variety of niche brands and voices, which have provided unprecedented choices and democratization of information and perspectives for consumers. As a result, products such as face oils have become their own discrete category, while vloggers have harnessed immense power sought after by even the largest multinational beauty houses. Elle beauty director Emily Dougherty noted that there are now more than 10,000 people on LinkedIn listing themselves as beauty editors. This spike in the number of voices has been enabled by a concurrent diversification in communication channels. Yet standard bearers such as Elle continue to cast a large shadow as influencers.
Inside the Mind of a Beauty Editor What does an Elle editor look for? Dougherty explained that, when surveying products for editorial coverage, she asks: Does it work, is it better than products already on the market, is it a breakthrough technology or format, and is it inspirational? Inspirational products are fun, but maybe not always be more efficacious than their predecessors, Dougherty said. In some cases, inspirational products may represent a breakthrough in rethinking a specific category or consumer need and, while not perfect, represent further innovations to come. In short, these products can act as a bellwether of where beauty is going. Dougherty discussed the various types of innovation beauty editors look at, including so-called pivot products—repurposing existing tech for a new application—and refinement products, which change the experience or point of view of a product or category or boost relevance. The rarest type of innovation, the lightning bolt, involves a completely new concept or product category and is most likely to excite a beauty editor. Dougherty detailed one recent lightning bolt, BitterLaceBeauty’s prism cheek highlighter, which comprises a pan (44 mm) of multicolored pigments that can be swiped by finger onto one’s cheek for a prism effect. A brush can be used for a more blended look. Sold by the small brand on Etsy, the product unexpectedly took
From left: FGI board member Caroline Fabrigas (Scent Marketing Institute), Peter Jueptner, (Estée Lauder), Emily Dougherty (Elle), Brigitte King (Kiehl’s Since 1851), Elana Drell-Szyfer (Laura Geller Beauty), Alicia Valencia (HSN), Rich Gersten (Tengram Capital Partners) and FGI board member Karen Young (The Young Group); credit: Eric T. Michelson Photography.
off on social media, creating immediate sellouts and long delays for replenishment orders.
The Etsy Effect and its Limitations Lightning bolts are particularly potent for millennials, Dougherty said, because those consumers are often less focused on efficacy than products’ “vibes.” Describing this phenomenon as “the Etsy effect,” she noted that often small niche brands can get away with efficacy lapses because of their emotional connection with consumers.* Because millennials are led by what their hearts are attracted to, connection can trump performance. The same cannot be said for multinationals. Top brands, said Dougherty, have to be perfect. Alicia Valencia, senior vice president of beauty for HSN, agreed, noting that if brands don’t have efficacy, they don’t really have a brand at all. As a result, clinicals and other backing evidence on claims is crucial. Quality will trump anything else in the long run, added Peter Jueptner, senior vice president, strategy and new business development at The Estée Lauder Companies. Brigitte King, deputy general manager of Kiehl’s USA, echoed those sentiments, adding that efficacy matters. Products have to have a payoff, which is why some of Kiehl’s legacy products remain among its top sellers. Elana Drell-Szyfer, CEO of Laura Geller Beauty, also noted that some of her brands’ decade-old products remain some of its top sellers because their quality is their legacy. The brand continues to focus on its core ingredient and process story to bring women to the brand. She concluded, that it “100% has to work.”
The End of Influencers? Brands seeking to speak to millennials’ hearts—and, ultimately, their wallets—are eager for access. Yet television viewership *That said, Dougherty explained that millennials do like products that come from specialists and experts—people seen as authentically knowledgeable.
14 Beauty Buzz GCI June 2016
So why is more private equity and investment banking turning to beauty? For one, beauty is a large and growing industry that is highly fragmented, with niche and indie brands offering unique investment opportunities. continues to decline for Americans age 18-24, according to Nielsen, while ad blocking has decimated many online campaigns even as digital marketing spends continue to rise. That’s why, according to Schlesinger Associates, 84% of marketing groups surveyed would introduce at least one influencer marketing program. Paying trendsetters and thought leaders to advocate for brands is big business, and is already creating its own celebrities, like YouTube personality Michelle Phan. Last year, Global Cosmetic Industry reported that The&Collective launched an influencer marketing agency to connect brands with social influencers who have gained significant traction on digital platforms. But does it work? According to Dougherty, yes and no. While influencers on Instagram, YouTube and Snapchat can indeed positively impact brands, scale matters. As digital celebrities begin to amass hundreds of thousands or even millions of followers, their potency to influence declines. As a result, Dougherty noted that consumers are beginning to embrace micro influencers, those personalities with large followings below the 100,000 threshold. Because engagement diminishes with the larger audiences, smaller-scale influencers truly have a new opportunity to boost brands.
Stuck in the Middle While the niche and top multinational and heritage brands are succeeding in the digital space and connecting with millennials in their own distinct ways, there is a challenge in middle. Mid-tier brands—like mid-tier influencers with neither massive nor targeted audiences—have difficulty generating excitement. Dougherty suggested that mid-tier brands need to rediscover their stories and tell it consistently.
are passionate, uniquely positioned and founder-owned. These businesses sit in a high-margin space and offer private equity investors “attractive” exit opportunities. Often, these business are succeeding despite themselves, Gersten said, with fantastic products and highly engaged consumers overcoming deficits in human resources, infrastructure and business strategy. Private equity money and attention can shore up these challenges, making the brands highly attractive acquisitions for top beauty multinationals. In acquiring “upgraded” brands from private equity, purchasers are typically seeking new territory or segments, or even expertise in elements such as social media, said Gersten.
Where the Action is Color cosmetics have driven a fair amount of private equity activity, Gersten explained. Prestige beauty, no surprise, is expanding “incredibly.” Brands such as L’Oréal have acquired brands such as Urban Decay and NYX from private equity. Meanwhile, other brands like Laura Geller have taken on new private equity investments or are actively seeking them. Skin care has seen strong M&A activity, said Gersten, including Nestlé purchasing Proactiv, Unilever purchasing Dermalogica, and Estée Lauder’s stake in Dr. Jart+ and GlamGlow. A number of brands are currently held by private equity, including Sundial Brands and Perricone MD.
The Beauty of Private Equity Investment Private equity has become more specialized in recent years, said Rich Gersten, of Tengram Capital Partners, leading to a decline in generalist investing. Gersten’s firm targets the consumer product space, with five of its 11 brands—including thisworks, Laura Geller Beauty, Deva Curl, Nest Fragrances and Cos Bar—falling in the beauty space. So why is more private equity and investment banking turning to beauty? For one, said Gersten, beauty is a large and growing industry that is highly fragmented, with niche and indie brands offering unique investment opportunities. Many of these businesses www.GCImagazine.com
Beauty Buzz 15
BEAUTY BUZZ Hair care has seen less activity in private equity, perhaps due to less clear growth and a smaller prestige hair market, Gersten explained. That said, there has been some M&A activity in recent years, including Church & Dwight’s purchase of Toppik and Henkel’s acquisition of SexyHair. Growth in fragrance investment has shifted to artisanal brands, Gersten continued. Recent activity has included Estée Lauder’s acquisitions of By Kilian and Le Labo. On the retail side, Macy’s has acquired Bluemercury, while Target has purchased DermStore.
Anatomy of an Acquisition As Gersten noted, private equity may often seek out founderowned companies that are seeing success despite structural or resource challenges, whether it be a lack of capital, direction or talent. Founder-owners must trust the private equity partners they select because they are not just selling their company—they’re selling their name. Gersten added that keeping founders engaged requires giving them a continued ownership interest in the company and providing them, through investment, with the money to grow to the next level. From Gersten’s perspective, ROI on a private equity deal should come in at roughly three times the money invested. Typically, a private equity firm holds onto and builds its acquisitions for four to five years prior to sale. If a company has been sitting in a private equity portfolio for a longer period, it’s typically “because it’s not working,” Gersten added. But when do you know when to sell? Gersten’s answer was simple: when you begin receiving a slew of unsolicited interest from potential buyers. In the case of Laura Geller Beauty, Tengram Capital Partners brought in an experienced beauty executive, Drell-Szyfer, as CEO. Drell-Szyfer said she was interested in the opportunities afforded by a private equity environment and felt her skill set—speed and agility, among others—fit the company’s needs. Drell-Szyfer previously held roles with companies, such as L’Oréal, The Estée Lauder Companies and Avon Products, and compared those experiences with working in a private equity environment. Aside from the rapid pace, she explained that one typically has the same goals and expectations as in any other top beauty company, but with fewer resources and capital and less time. This has taught her how to analyze and process situations and make decisions quickly and firmly, she said. Working within a small business means that executives have to process great volumes of information and quickly prioritize and make determinations. Time and financial management skills are an absolute must, she concluded. Aside from her duties with the Laura Geller Beauty brand, DrellSzyfer helped scout itworks—Tengram Capital Partners’ only non-U.S. brand—while on a trip to the United Kingdom. Her initial discovery and the firm’s investment occurred within a year timespan, according to Gersten, showing the pace of deals in the private equity space. Drell-Szyfer has also become involved in finding new talent for the firm’s other portfolio companies. In the end, she said, her role is to add value to the brands and make them a resource that other companies would want to acquire. DrellSzyfer added that it is critical to talk openly with staff regarding the goal: to build the brand in order for it to be sold.
Don’t Love it? Don’t Buy it. Top brands have become aware that competition can come from anywhere, said King. As a result, they are engaging in M&A at the smaller niche level. Jueptner noted that beauty brands are looking at smaller assets that can “refresh” their portfolios. These acquisitions create greater diversification and can be built up to handle today’s fragmented consumer base. Jueptner said that fragrance is an arena with great potential, particularly in high-end artisanal luxury products. He added, however, that passion comes first, “If we can’t fall in love with brand, we won’t buy it.” Valencia cautioned that success, particularly on her platform, requires a great product, great story and great storyteller. Failure on any one pillar could hinder success. As a result, she said, large brands must never lose sight of the unique stories behind their smaller acquisitions. In this way, HSN can act as a partner in helping build brands.
King noted that, in addition to fixing supply chain issues, her job has focused on preserving brand DNA. She noted one incident in which, while mapping out the brand, the Kiehl’s founders demanded the resulting document be printed on parchment. This small detail signaled to King so much about what the brand must continue to be. To this day, while Kiehl’s evolution is ongoing, she said that L’Oréal is focused on enhancing the brand’s roots while keeping it competitive and agile by, among other strategies, scaling up and leveraging digital channels. Jueptner concurred with King, saying it is crucial to ensure that entrepreneurs don’t get lost in the large acquirer company and lose their unique voices. For one thing, he said, it is important to keep acquired brands’ headquarters where they are rather than consolidating them within the beauty centers of New York or Paris. This retains brand authenticity and discrete identity. Because, unlike the three- to four-year timespan of private equity, brands like Estée Lauder are focused on building brands over 10- and 50-year periods. Building them to last. n
16 Beauty Buzz GCI June 2016
BRANDS & BENCHMARKS Available in Peppermint, Orange Lavender, Naked and Patchouli Lime varieties, Dr. Bronner’s USDA Organic Body & Lip Balm contains organic beeswax, organic hemp, avocado and jojoba oils, and is free of petrochemically modified ingredients. The body and lip products are packaged in reusable 0.5 oz tins and 0.15 oz cylinder applicators, respectively. The products can be used for healing minor burns and chapped skin, soothing diaper rash, preserving tattoos, protecting the skin against harsh winter weather and more. n Paper manufacturer Schweitzer-Mauduit International has launched a new design office and “think tank,” LeafLAB. The group will focus on a range of segments, including plant-based paper and botanical fibers, as well as plant fiber-based masks for cosmetic applications. Using botanical fibers and extracts from plants, such as hibiscus, lavender and green tea, LeafLAB designs skin care and beauty products. The materials are biodegradable and can store and release active ingredients in applications, such as face masks, skin cleansing sheets and beauty patches for the eyes, face or body. n
INNARAH has launched the VenoDefense collection of fermented anti-aging formulas comprising unique ingredients, such as elk antler velvet, ormus gold, plant stem cells and marine phytoplankton. The range includes VenoDefense Treatment Crème (pictured), which fights skin inflammation and aging, replenishes skin moisture and diminishes the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Other products in the range include JO2 Compound Oxygenated Crème Hyper Oxygenated Crème, which detoxifies and brightens the skin, and reduces the appearance of dark spots and acne scars; Defense Oil Oxygenated, which contains omega 3 and minerals, which protects the skin from environmental aggressors; and Treatment Cleanser, which stimulates natural ceramide1 production and acts as a gentle cleanser. n
Briogeo’s Don’t Despair Repair! is a gel-to-oil repair treatment that helps strengthen hair, restore moisture and repair damage overnight. It benefits dry, damaged, breaking or lifeless hair, often caused by chemical or color treatments, heating tools or climate changes. The vegan-friendly gel melts into oil, penetrating the hair and scalp, and can be washed out with shampoo the following day. n
Twisted Sista Salon Performance Styling Products has introduced larger sizes and an organic coconut lime fragrance. The paraben- and sulfate-free products tackle curl concerns by offering moisture, frizz control and styling options. The line now includes the Frizz Control Straightening Blow Dry Cream (7.5 oz), which keeps hair straight, smooth, soft and protects hair up to 450 degrees of heat from a blow dryer or flat iron. Other products in the line include: Luxurious Clarifying Shampoo, 12 oz $8.99; Intensive Leave-In Conditioner, 12 oz $8.99; 30-second Curl Spray, 8 oz $5.99; Curl Activator Crème, 7.5 oz $8.99; and Amazing Dream Curls Gel, 12 oz $8.99. n
18 Brands & Benchmarks GCI June 2016
Biossance’s Blacklist Marries Brand Positioning and Regulatory Issues
Biossance, which is owned by sustainable ingredient company Amyris, has introduced a “blacklist” of ingredients it will not use in its products. Containing more than 2,000 materials, the list is in part an attack on what the brand says are weak U.S. regulatory laws. Of course this is not the first time a brand has created an ingredients no-no list as a means of appeasing NGOs and creating a point of differentiation with competitors. Back in February, P&G disclosed a list of more than 140 chemicals it would not use in fragrances in its brands, a move embraced by the Environmental Working Group. Biossance’s list contains “common cosmetic ingredients it refuses to use due to safety and environmental concerns.” The company goes further and accuses the U.S. regulatory framework of allowing the use of harmful materials.* The brand has touted its ability to do the “right thing for consumers” and highlighted its omission of petroleum-based ingredients and other materials that it says may harm consumers’ skin. Biossance added, “Beginning with a list of 1,300-plus ingredients banned in Europe, Biossance’s Blacklist now totals over 2,000 restricted ingredients, including conflict minerals, parabens and oxybenzone (used in products such as sunscreen and linked to mass die-offs in coral).” n *Read “Looming Cosmetics Legislation: What You Need to Know,” an assessment of these issues by Pamela Jo Busiek, president and CEO, ICMAD, at www.gcimagazine.com/ business/management/regulation/
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Brands & Benchmarks 19
BRANDS & BENCHMARKS
Could Victoria Beckham’s Collection Match Kendall Jenner’s Buzz? Estée Lauder and Victoria Beckham are teaming up for a limited-edition makeup collection, Victoria Beckham Estée Lauder, which will launch in September. Beckham, who previously collaborated with COTY on fragrances, has not disclosed the concept or contents of the new collection. Estée Lauder recently enjoyed buzzy success with its makeup launch with Kendall Jenner. “We are excited to join forces and bring Victoria’s take on beauty to her many fans around the world,” said Jane Hertzmark Hudis, group president, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Victoria is an entrepreneur in the true spirit of our founder, Estée Lauder, with a real understanding of what women want, and a commitment to making women look and feel their most beautiful. Victoria has a passion for beauty and we are delighted to welcome her into our brand.” n
Guerlain Nose Teams with New Perfume Startup Jean-Paul Guerlain, the nose behind such Guerlain scents as Vétiver, Habit Rouge, Samsara, Chamade, Nahema, Guerlinade, l’Heure Bleue, Héritage and Jardins de Bagatelle, has joined the French startup My Exclusive Collection to create luxury perfumes. The company’s first perfumes for men and women will be released at the beginning of 2017. Produced in France, the perfumes will also be included in a line of cosmetics and products for facial and body care. According to the firm, “the search for investors has started.” “People will always be passionate about French perfumes and their international reputation is still very strong,” said Stéphane Laffont-Reveilhac, president of My Exclusive Collection. “Our aim is to restore the actual essence of traditional perfume creation and French craftsmanship with a collection of modern fragrances linked to today’s world: universal, connected and ethical. A perfume is a work of art which must go through time and space against the grain of current trends dictated by the marketing and financial performance.” “Perfume is the most intense form of memory,” said Guerlain. “It must be a promise of happiness. It also represents beauty, elegance, a touch of luxury, a personal and intimate journey.” n
Iran Opens the Door to K-beauty Iran and Korea have both signed an agreement to partially reduce regulations on Korean cosmetics exports, beginning to pave the way for increased sales of local cosmetics in the Iranian market. The agreement is said to go into effect later this year. On-site inspections, mandatory before the agreement, will be eliminated for certified Korean cosmetics being exported to Iran. Iran has also eliminated the need for Korean companies to present documentation proving product approval in the United States or Europe. n
20 Brands & Benchmarks GCI June 2016
BEAUTY CHANNELS Catching Women in “Errand Mode” Beauty brands can now directly engage consumers when they’re in “errand mode” at the salon via a new partnership between Gloss Media and inMarket. This new microlocation engagement platform merges Gloss Media’s salon video network content with inMarket’s beacon technology and app. Gloss Media already operates a salon video network in 20,000 locations and will now leverage inMarket’s 44.5 million monthly active users directly in-app. “Salons facilitate heavy mobile usage by patrons—90% of whom are female, and 65% of whom are Moms—who visit for an average of 60 minutes,” according to an official release from the companies. “This hour of downtime facilitates heavy mobile usage, creating a tremendous opportunity for brands to reach a highly coveted audience.” Gloss Media already operates a salon video network in 20,000 locations and will now leverage inMarket’s 44.5 million monthly active users directly in-app. This allows Gloss Media to engage consumers in salons that do not have their own standalone apps. Kevin Hunter, president of inMarket, commented, “Brands looking to reach women have a tremendous opportunity to engage during one of their nearly 2 billion salon visits per year.” Gloss Media is offering beacon proximity engagements for the second quarter and beyond. InMarket’s beacon-powered campaigns are set up just like a traditional media buy. n
Beauty Box Delivers Expert Advice Right to Your Door Beyond Her Blush delivers makeup, lotion, toner, nail polish, jewelry and a YouTube tutorial that allows the subscriber to create specific looks. The monthly subscription is $18 or $20 a month with free U.S. ground shipping. “By providing YouTube tutorials, the subscribers are able to use each product featured in the box to generate the exact same look stylists create for their celebrity clients,” said Michelle Grundman, founder. The looks are curated by celebrity stylists, comprising five or six beauty products. “The service provided by Beyond Her Blush isn’t just to provide women with trendy, topquality products but rather includes an interactive experience with the customer,” added Grundman. “Since most women get their style inspiration from celebrities, I wanted to provide a service that would feature these looks from the individuals who know best: highly regarded celebrity stylists.” n
Snapchat is the New Beauty Influencer ... and Shopping Platform According to MediaKix (mediakix.com), an eMarketer study found that 22% of the senior advertising executives surveyed planned to advertise on Snapchat this year. Why? “The good news is clearly your reach,” said Unilever CMO Keith Weed of the platform at the FMCG Social Media Summit. As reported by Marketing Week, Weed added, “For Cornetto, it was called Winterville. We had over half a million views. We had ROI through to sales—we sold more stuff.” Snapchat simply works. Indeed, more brands are getting engaged on the platform, which boasts more than 100 million active monthly users. Recently, Coty power brand Rimmel London named Cara Delevingne as its latest brand ambassador, unveiling the partnership during a Snapchat press conference. Now, Ad Week reports that Lancôme and Target are running shoppable ads on the platform via Cosmopolitan’s Discover channel. The report noted, “Lancôme and Target’s promos appear between Cosmo’s articles and videos, each with a 10-second call-to-action instructing viewers to ‘swipe up’ for more. ... Swiping down on the screen pulls up a loading page with Target’s mobile site where people can shop the products featured in the ad—like plant stands and water bottles.” A consumer can shop within the Lancôme shop without ever leaving Snapchat. n
Beauty Education through YouTube YouTube and L’Oréal Paris are teaming up to launch an online beauty school for 10 French vloggers to learn the skills required to become a success on the social video channel. The 10 vloggers will enroll in the new academy for six months, learning from L’Oréal Paris and YouTube executives about video making, audiences and beauty. It will be tied to a reality show airing on L’Oréal’s YouTube channel, starting in December. n
22 Beauty Channels GCI June 2016
BEAUTY CHANNELS
Building a Better Retailer: BeautyKind Cause sponsorships are expected to reach $2 billion in 2016, according to the IEG Sponsorship Report.* It’s no wonder, given that 90% of U.S. consumers are willing to switch from a conventional brand to one that is associated with a charitable cause.** But wanting to sponsor a cause is easy, doing it—and doing it right—isn’t. That’s where BeautyKind comes in. The brainchild of hedge fund, equity research and entrepreneurial veteran Hil Davis, BeautyKind (beautykind.us) was founded to allow consumers to replenish products and discover brands while supporting causes of their choosing. Inspired by the TOMS philanthropic shoe giant, Davis saw an opportunity to build a “better” retailer by placing cause marketing into the center of a brandagnostic portal. In a recent interview with GCI, he explained that this creates a strong emotional connection and loyalty to brands and allows them to scale-up their impact on causes.
across all participating SKUs. Traditional retailers, who have costs associated with running stores, don’t have the margin to support such cause marketing programs. BeautyKind, Davis said, takes that cost and applies 5% of sales to a cause of the consumer’s choice. By reallocating store expenses to cause marketing BeautyKind may have Hil Davis was inspired by the TOMS established a competitive advantage. philanthropic shoe company when
Poised for Online Sales Growth
he built BeautyKind.
BeautyKind couldn’t have occurred three years ago, Davis argued. Today, however, the unique convergence of technology, cause marketing and consumer behaviors have emerged to make such a platform possible. Only about 6% of beauty sales are online, Davis noted, which is a much lower percentage compared to many other industries. Despite traditional resistance from some brands and retailers, online sales continue to climb. Now, online beauty sales present a $5 billion opportunity. In addition to gaining new brand partners, BeautyKind is working with the American Cancer Society and other major charities. Davis noted that many of these nonprofits are experiencing donor fatigue. By incorporating these organizations into the cause marketing platform, BeautyKind has created a new passive way to boost donations and build a strong emotional connection, what Davis called “head, heart and wallet.”
BeautyKind has incorporated discovery brands since the start and is expanding its range of mainstream beauty players.
Personalizing the Cause In addition to the portal, which offers brands such as Burberry, Frederic Fekkai, Calvin Klein, Bliss and Art of Shaving, BeautyKind operates a handful of store-in-store concepts at select Bloomingdale’s outlets. BeautyKind has launched national cable TV ads and introduced pop-up stores at events, such as SXSW, the ACM awards and on college campuses around the United States. Online, shoppers select their products and then select their cause at checkout. Each user also has a personalized homepage that becomes his/her personalized beauty counter based on preferences.
Spreading the Cause BeautyKind has incorporated discovery brands since the start and is expanding its range of mainstream beauty players. Davis noted that the retailer’s ability to “move product” convinced top beauty brands to participate. Of course brands like Estée Lauder have their own cause programs, said Davis. They have the margin and ability to support causes across a range—or select handful—of SKUs. That cause element can often boost those SKUs to top-seller status. BeautyKind’s model, said Davis, gives brands the ability to spread cause marketing and its benefits *www.causemarketingforum.com **Cone Communications/Ebiquity’s 2015 Global CSR Study www.GCImagazine.com
BeautyKind has launched a series of pop-ups on college campuses and musical events.
Engaging Consumers BeautyKind has launched a reward program and is opening its first showroom, featuring a sample bar with stylists for a personto-person experience. Davis explained that, because omnichannel is so important, BeautyKind will eventually open 30 to 100 such showrooms. These venues could eventually garner several hundred million dollars in sales, according to Davis. In addition, the retailer is building a concert series, which will support causes and make BeautyKind more of a lifestyle brand. Such events need not be major profit centers, Davis said, and instead are intended to create connections within consumers’ lives. Meanwhile, the college campus pop-up tour will continue, raising more money and creating new opportunities to invite customers to become “part of the brand.” n Beauty Channels 23
FRAGRANCE FOCUS
THE ONLY WAY
IS UP
The global fragrance market points to a premium fragrance future. n BY ORU MOHIUDDIN, SENIOR BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE ANALYST, EUROMONITOR
T ∑ For the first time, premium fragrances are growing faster than mass. ∑ Multinational players can acquire premium and niche brands to leverage this growth, but must take care not to dilute brand identity. ∑ Simultaneously, premium fragrances trends are trickling down to the mass segment, reaching a broader demographic and redefining what can really be classified as mass.
24
Fragrance Focus
he global fragrance market in 2015 was marked by an impressive recovery, reaching $45.7 billion, up 6% over 2014, the fastest growth recorded over 2010–2015 (see F-1). For the first time, premium fragrances exceeded the growth in the mass segment, gaining close to 7% in 2015, compared to 5.7% for mass. Investment in niche perfumery, personalization and exclusive collections are producing the desired impact as premium players increasingly seek to garner a piece of this lucrative market.
Several fragrance houses have created alternative formats and customizable options, such as Philosophy’s My Philosophy Perfume Collection for mixing one’s own fragrance.
Trading Up Goes Global
Fewer Scents, More Impact
Regional dynamics show evidence of an expanding consumer base trading up to premium brands, resulting in slower growth in mass fragrances, including the traditionally mass-orientated Latin American region. Fearing a stagnant market, several fragrance houses responded by innovating with alternative formats and customizable options, such as Chanel’s purse spray formats and Philosophy’s My Philosophy Perfume Collection for mixing one’s own fragrance.
Reviving the market also requires curbing excessive launch activity in favor of fewer but more impactful perfumes. For example, Jean Paul Gaultier, which witnessed flagging sales over 2010–2015 (-1.2% CAGR), was regained by Puig in 2016. Puig plans to launch the first major fragrance in 2017 to allow time to reinvent the brand narrative and elevate its status by streamlining its portfolio and focusing on the two main collections: Classique and Le Male. Doing so may require a complete
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GCI June 2016
Several acquisitions of niche perfumeries also characterized 2015, including Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur by Puig.
rethink of the human body bottle shape, a concept that may have been rendered irrelevant to today’s consumers.
Strategic Acquisitions to Proliferate Several acquisitions of niche perfumeries also characterized 2015, including Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur by Puig, Serge Lutens by Shiseido, and Editions De Parfums Frédéric Malle and Le Labo by Estée Lauder, which has more recently
While integrating niche brands and exploiting synergies may seem like a profit-boosting measure, sustaining the brand narrative requires that such brand owners are granted autonomy and the ability to continue working independently to remain truly unique. consolidated its luxury portfolio with the acquisition of By Kilian, purveyor of bespoke perfume and scented jewelry. Fragrance players active in the resilient luxury segment have seen their market positions strengthen. This helps minimize risk and bolsters an image of a genuinely luxury player. In addition,
F-1. Global fragrance market: premium vs mass value sales and % growth, 2010–2015
playing in the luxury segment has become crucial, especially as consumers seek individualized scents. These scents’ limited availability and infrequent launches are a driving force for accelerated growth. The high markups fortify the brands’ market share and profitability. This, in turn, funds further development in personalized scents and expansion by way of tactical distribution— such as by opening stand-alone stores—that is reinforced the brand DNA. There are caveats that luxury brand acquirers cannot neglect. Niche perfumeries convey a unique value, experience and a story to the fragrance user. Hence, entrapping a niche brand in company politics risks diluting its value. While integrating niche brands and exploiting synergies may seem like a profit-boosting measure, sustaining the brand narrative requires that such brand owners are granted autonomy and the ability to continue working independently to remain truly unique.
Active Innovations The popularity of niche offerings and near-customization is creating the impetus for more defined innovation that aligns with evolving lifestyles. In skin care, anti-pollution is gaining ground as more consumers live in urban congested cities, while tea players now boast a wide range of energizing teas to help consumers with demanding lifestyles to improve www.GCImagazine.com
Fragrance Focus
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FRAGRANCE FOCUS which are aimed at giving a sensorial boost. Meanwhile, Velds’ Prends-Moi claims to aid weight loss by suppressing appetite. With fragrances set to enhance consumers’ lifestyles around healthy minds and bodies, the industry will be able to expand its growth avenues beyond beauty.
The Next Generation of Fragrance Lovers With the rise of energizing teas, drinks and skin care products comes the eventual emergence of moodenhancing (lifting or calming) fragrances similar to Acorelle’s Extraits d’Emotions
their health and wellbeing. The fragrance industry has a contribution to make. With the rise of energizing teas, drinks and skin care products comes the emergence of mood-enhancing (lifting or calming) fragrances similar to Acorelle’s Extraits d’Emotions and Weleda’s scents,
These types of innovations, as well as storytelling scents and fragrances suited to aspiring lifestyles, looks and specific events, are likely to resonate well with younger consumers. These digital natives are set to redefine fragrance consumption as their perceptions, and brand preferences are influenced by active bloggers and social media users. Scent will remain the core product, but digital natives visit stores with a fountain of knowledge, prerequisites and a set of brands already in mind. In addition,
perfume bottle design, its alignment with fashion trends and embodiment of a scent, is more likely than ever to influence olfactory perceptions. Digitally-engaged millennials are also excited by personalization. Perhaps not all can afford it, but customizable scent is set for democratization. For example, Victoria’s Secret launched the Fantasies Fragrance Studio comprising 19 scents that users can mix and match, while a U.K.-based inventor designed the Perfume Blender that gives users pre-set options to dispense near-customized scents by setting the ratio at which two different “juices” are pumped through the atomizer. This shows that premium fragrances trends are trickling down to the mass segment—or, to view it in a different light, premium choices are reaching a broader demographic, redefining what can be classified as mass. n
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IN-COSMETICS FOCUS
Beauty
Must Refocus on
Experience What in-cosmetics revealed about the future of the beauty industry—from texture to sustainability to time.
B ∑ Today, consumers are focused on experience, particularly as time has become a luxury commodity, as well as mindful enjoyment of life. ∑ Ingredient innovations are addressing time by creating more efficient products, as well as materials that can be applied to multi-step beauty rituals. ∑ In addition, new launches highlight the importance of increasing the sensory experience through texture, color and other product aspects, as well as boosting the sustainability of beauty and personal care.
y 2020, premium will add an companies will innovate less, but in a way additional $20 billion to the that is more impactful—what she described beauty market, led by consumers as “frugal innovation.” in the United States and China, To illustrate, suppliers, such as Croda, according to a presentation by presented simplified, low-cost formulations, Euromonitor (www.euromonitor.com) so-called “Beauty in Simplicity,” comprising analyst Irina Barbalova at the 2016 fewer ingredients and requiring little or no in-cosmetics event in Paris. modifications—without sacrificing efficacy. Barbalova added that, at the same time, mass is slowing down. This trend will be a boost for lifestyle-focused brands, a diverse spectrum of consumers, digital engagement and niche offerings. Today, consumers are focused on experience, particularly as time has become a luxury commodity, as well as mindful enjoyment of life. As a result, brands will have to change See more ingredient innovations from in-cosmetics in Ingredients & their thinking. Overall, Claims, page 50. Barbalova argued, beauty
28 in-cosmetics GCI June 2016 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.
Honoree Kevin Gallagher, center.
HONORING THE INNOVATORS This year’s Lifetime Achievement Award went to Kevin Gallagher, retired president, Global Personal Care & Actives, Croda, and columnist for Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine. Gallagher was recognized for his contributions to the personal care industry. The event’s Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards honorees* are as follows: Best Functional Ingredients • Gold: Agrimer with Seaweed Caviar • Silver: Sigmund Lindner with SiLiglam Nature • Bronze: Ashland with Polyelectrolyte Complex Three Best Active Ingredients • Gold: Givaudan with Neurophroline • Silver: Lucas Meyer for Minoporyl • Bronze: Solabia Group for Redyless *Additional honorees detailed within this article.
The implication of this and other trends was the focus of in-cosmetics, which welcomed 9,726 personal care industry professionals from 131 countries and presented innovations from 784 exhibitors, offering a broad view of where the industry is going.
What’s Growing? The fastest-growing brands include fast-fashion, derma/health brands, and regional and Korean brands, according to Barbalova. She added that millennials, currently 30% of the global population, will be drivers of future growth. Millennials spend the most online, she noted. This group will comprise 50% of the worldwide workforce by 2020 and are experiential, fragmented, digitally activated and best of all, willing to try new products and brands. According to the Euromonitor figures cited, color cosmetics perform best in the digital channel. www.GCImagazine.com
in-cosmetics 29
IN-COSMETICS FOCUS Innovations in the space include the Mushu skin detector and OKU personal skin care coach.
Destressing Beauty
In addition to the exhibition, two new areas were introduced at in-cosmetics 2016: the Formulation Lab and Sensory Bar.
Millennials’ purchases are more individualistic and experiential, according to Barbalova. As a result, these consumers have high preference for luxury that is personalized. In such an environment, brands must fit lifestyle priorities in order to succeed. One example, Barbalova noted, were face masks, which fit easily into millennials’ lifestyles.
The Human Side of Beauty Tech No matter how sophisticated it becomes, technology in the beauty space will always require the “human touch,” explained Sava Marinkovich, co-founder of mySkin, which has produced OKU, a mobileconnected skin assessment device that generates product recommendations. Marinkovich spoke as part of an incosmetics roundtable, “Smart Beauty & Consumer Empowerment,” which also featured Anastasya Georgievskaya, cofounder and research scientist at Youth Laboratories, which is behind the first beauty competition judged by the robot jury, Beauty.AI, and the age-tracking app RYNKL, and was moderated by GCI editor in chief, Jeb Gleason-Allured. Both experts discussed the leveraging of personal data to create product recommendations or boost machine learning, while also highlighting the ways in which their product discovery platforms are partnering with brands without sacrificing the neutrality of their respective
technologies’ assessments. In every aspect, trust is crucial. Elsewhere, brands are using digital platforms to build R&D and brand intimacy, according to Barbalova. For instance, Glossier has prepared the launch of a crowdsourced skin care product driven solely by digital consumer engagement. Meanwhile, new beauty devices are being introduced to allow consumers to self-analyze the condition of their skin.
From left: Beauty technology panelists Anastasia Georgievskava (Beauty.AI) and Sava Marinkovich (mySkin), and moderator Jeb Gleason-Allured (GCI).
According to figures provided by Givaudan Active Beauty, 33% of people in the United States experience extreme stress, the effects of which cost as much as $200 billion per year in medical costs, according to figures cited in a 2015 Forbes report (www.forbes.com). Stress elevates the level of cortisol produced by the body, which can cause premature aging, increased oiliness and other skin conditions. Givaudan Active Beauty’s Neurophroline, which won the in-cosmetics Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award, stimulates “feel-good” beta-endorphins to counteract cortisol and, therefore, battle the effects of stress and environmental aggressors, such as pollution. The material can be applied to body care, baby care and facial care, according to the company.
Caring Tech and Other Emerging Trends A Clariant BeautyForward event held in conjunction with in-cosmetics centered on inspirational trends from around the globe, featuring collaborations with teams from New York, Barcelona, Sao Paulo and Shanghai. The collaborators noted the rise of what they termed “caring technology,” the phenomenon of technology becoming an extension of humanity, which could affect beauty, including a more “connected” form of men’s grooming. The collaborators also found that a subset of consumers are focused on the “new glamour,” epitomized by social media luminaries, such as Kim Kardashian. These consumers embrace radiant skin and shiny hair and believe that beauty is about being noticed. Clariant created a beauty balm for this consumer type, which provided a radiant complexion, as well as a perfume mist with suspended gold “sparks” inside and a pearlescent hand sanitizer that offered consumers shimmer and a luxurious afterfeel. Clariant’s global teams also identified the “pure” trend, in which consumers look for perfection and focus on what is best in life. These consumers seek out new textures and sophisticated and refined products. To illustrate, Clariant developed
30 in-cosmetics GCI June 2016
a demo moisturizing skin gel that was fragrance-free and quick-absorbing for a longlasting effect. Finally, the group explored the implications of the “new feminist,” who is true to herself, looking for challenges and who views beauty as a personal, individualistic statement of strength. These consumers seek protective products, for instance a demo body cream with an ice cream texture that defends the skin and offers instant moisturization.
Time is Beauty Time-starved consumers around the world are creating new demands, according to Barbalova. Increasingly, how consumers feel is directly tied to beauty and mindfulness, which is about a more enjoyable lifestyle, improvement of aging and overall health. One manifestation of this trend is the adult coloring book phenomenon, which highlights a slowing down and concentration on freeing the mind. The focus on time is also creating routine expansions around the world. Traditionally, Asia’s beauty markets—particularly Korea— centered on multi-step beauty rituals. Now, this more elaborate approach to beauty is spreading. Barbalova noted that 30% of Latin Americans use two or more hair products in their ritual. The expansion of rituals has led to the rise of oil formats in Asia and the Middle East, with Korea as the top market in oil-format facial cleansers. (Oil formats are also appearing in hair coloring products in China.) About 20% of Asian female consumers are using facial mists and sprays daily, while 10% of Indian consumers use powder format facial cleansers. These trends and the embrace of oil formats in skin and hair care, as well as
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cushions and face masks, have benefited regional players, like Amorepacific and Natura. These companies are expanding new markets and leveraging cross-regional inspiration.
Reconciling With Time In-cosmetics featured a range of antiaging approaches, some of which focused on a more naturalistic outlook on getting older. Lipotec’s biotech-derived ingredient was specifically designed for mature women 50 and up. Inspired by a marine creature that lives in extreme conditions, the material can repair the mature skin’s communication among cells, which, when it breaks down, can lead to dryness, wrinkles, age spots and more. The result is a delayed aging appearance of the skin. Lipotec also produced a booklet on “serene beauty,” which focused on how healthy aging allows women to be true to their age and reconcile with time.
Alban Muller presented its vegetal Borealine Expert anti-aging active, while Crodarom’s Elfe Flower offered antiinflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-aging, anti-fatigue and moisturizing activity. Naturex’s Cherry Blossom Eutectys counteracts photo-aging and has antiinflammatory benefits, in addition to antioxidants in order to firm and regenerate the skin for improved barrier function. Rahn’s Liftonin-Xpert natural actives, botanicals, essential oils and plant extracts purportedly boost collagen and support anti-aging. Ashland introduced PhytoRNx Baobab, a natural extract inspired by small RNAs. The ingredient is associated with increased collagen expression in vivo and can lead to age-defying effects and the recovery of skin homeostasis. It also has lasting skin
moisturization activity. Formulated at 1% in a cosmetic preparation, the ingredient is associated with increased skin hydration up to 24 hours after application in vivo. BASF, meanwhile, introduced an antiaging plant epidermal growth factor that increases skin elasticity, reduces roughness and wrinkle appearance, promotes skin regeneration, increases young and mature collagen, causes elastin to increase and is applicable in any skin care applications.
Beauty Gets Well Consumers are incorporating wellness into every aspect of their lifestyles. Barbalova noted that many beauty websites, such as Into the Gloss and Goop, are becoming more focused on health and relaxation and promoting niche brands. Wellness lifestyle shifts are boosting the application of food ingredients in beauty, she continued, as well as natural ingredients in general, in addition to cruelty-free, organic, botanically derived and similar claims. Product benefits, meanwhile, are incorporating unique wellness ingredients such as bamboo charcoal and becoming more solution-based, for instance making specific claims for post-workout, energizing, cooling, relaxing, destressing, etc.
Texture Hacks for Beauty Texture—a key component in the consumer experience—was a core focus of in-cosmetics. The event’s Sensory Awards recognized breakthroughs from various suppliers. The gold went to Capsum with Epure IsoBulle. The silver went to Nikkol Group with Meguri Series, which offered “dynamic textures” that evolved and changed during application to highlight the importance of massage in the East Asian regimen in-cosmetics 31
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for blood circulation stimulation and facial muscle softening for improved skin tone and firmness.” The bronze went to Technature with Leaf Mask, which contained green tea and mint. In-cosmetics featured a Sensory Bar that focused on texture and sensations, including transforming and hybrid textures, milky emulsions and leading-edge pigments. SEPPIC presented a range of concepts that highlighted possibilities for textures including a foaming powder to which consumers could add their desired amount of water in order to create anything from a cleanser (highly diluted) to a shampoo (low dilution), offering a unique take on nowater products that save on water use and transport. It also formulated a novel “algae spaghetti” makeup remover concept that pushed the envelope on format. The company’s Jugaad (the Punjabi word translates as “hack”) detox product offered a minimalist formula of seven ingredients, including two actives, for body care. The cold-processed cream gel featured EASYNOV and the quick-break effect ingredient, GELTRAP. The moisturization came from the inclusion of AQUAXYL, while the detoxification came from the BIOPLASMA FA. Clariant’s BeautyForward event focused on new formulations and textures for the personal care sector that offered refinement and sophistication. The company’s Metamorphosis by Plantasens put forth texture transformations, such as lotions that turned from a balm to a powder or oils that became milk. A pearlescent hand sanitizer containing the polymer Aristoflex AVC stayed intact in the jar and then disappeared on the skin’s surface to moisturize and cleanse the skin. Clariant’s gold sparks perfume presented a glittering fragrance mist with low
viscosity, yet enough density to suspend gold particles in the bottle. A bounce cream contained a mix of rheology modifiers (ingredients included the emulsifier Hostaphat KW 340 D and Aristoflex) to provide a bouncy texture that delivered skin hydration. The company also presented a skin-repairing ice cream texture cream that melted on the skin and contained the organomodified silicone SilCare Silicone 41M65, Aristoflex HMB and the preservative blend Phenonip XB. Alban Muller presented Limolami ER, an ingredient that offers “extreme softness,” providing a feeling of softness with a nonsticky, smooth and silky texture. Lipolami ER can be formulated with natural, melting, smooth and non-sticky cosmetic products. NuSil Technologies’ CareSil CES ingredient was introduced to allow brands to create skin care products from cool, light-as-water serums to gels and creams for multi-step beauty routines, which are increasingly popular in Asia and elsewhere. The encapsulated silicone emulsion, made without surfactants, creates transformative textures with no tacky or oily after-effect. Resolving skin texture, Gattefossé’s Gatuline Renew smooths, hydrates and softens the skin for a younger appearance. Meanwhile, Ashland highlighted its insights into how texture changes as a product is applied to the skin or when it goes through various levels of heat or humidity, or even variations in skin chemistry. The company’s texture solutions included esters, hydrogels and hybrid polymer technology, which allow Ashland to adjust viscosity, create new texture profiles, optimize the sound of the product in-use and even maintain a product’s signature texture in the case of regulatoryinduced reformulations. BASF’s inspiring textures included the ability to create a powdery cream that feels powdery and dry and which will transform to oil when applied to the skin. This creates an element of surprise, which can delight consumers. Univar focused on a range of trends and created products in response, including a shimmering jelly-jiggle texture that could be applied to eye shadow. Croda’s new formulas, meanwhile, included a cloud formulation that transforms from a unique marshmallowy texture that becomes more like water when rubbed on the skin. Another gel formulation turned into an oil when rubbed into skin.
Urban Pollution Driving New Innovation and Claims Beyond experience, consumers are preoccupied with emerging beauty threats. For instance, air pollution and UV exposure are growing concerns. Once centered in Asia, worries over environmental stressors and sun exposure have gone global. Pollution—specifically skin-damaging 2.5 µm particles—is thought to prematurely age the skin, causing inflammation and other negative effects. Now, ingredient companies are stepping up to offer marketers a new range of ingredients and claims.
Once centered in Asia, worries over environmental stressors and sun exposure have gone global.
“There was so much going on at incosmetics 2016,” said Barbara Olioso, director of UK-based consultancy The Green Chemist. “The event presented the latest information on pollution and new materials.” Indeed, ingredients and concepts aimed at counteracting the effects of urban pollution and other environmental stressors ruled the event. For example, SEPPIC presented a responsibly sourced palm antipollution cream featuring MONTANOV 68, a “green” oil-in-water emulsifier that is RSPO-grade. The ingredient works with all oily phases and provides a sensory impact of richness and softness in skin and hair care. Evonik’s formulation concepts focused on counteracting damage from pollution, UV rays, dust and air conditioning/dry air. The supplier’s City Defense Purifying Mild Facial Cleanser was formulated to remove pollution particles from the skin, while the Anti-Pollution & Intensive Hydration Sleep Mask was formulated with SK-influx V, which boosts the protective barrier function of the skin. Finally, Evonik’s Daily
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Sederma’s Citystem counteracts and prevents the penetration of pollutants and removes and neutralizes oxidant species.
Anti-Photoaging Cream SPF 15 UVA comprised the moisturizing emulsifier TEGO Care PBS 6, while the quickabsorbing Dry Touch Hand Moisturizing Cream SPF 20 UVA was developed for the outdoors, traveling and driving. On the ingredients side, Ashland took a unique approach to battling blue light pollution from computer screens and cell phones with its biofunctional Theobroma cocoa seed extract, Blumilight. According to the company, the ingredient “is associated with a better resistance to blue light stress, compared to conventional cocoa polyphenols, in vitro.” BASF’s Lys’Sun defends against solar elastosis, which deepens lines in the skin. The witch-hazel extract stimulates the synthesis of LOX-L, restoring the production of functional elastic fibers and helping to bring back a youthful appearance. The product can be applied to day and night creams. Lipotec’s Pollushield functional ingredient improves the cleansing of pollutants from the face. It can also be used in moisturizing products and creates a barrier that is antioxidative. SILAB’s Mitokinyl anti-pollution natural active (biotech yeast-derived) regulates pollutant stress, forms a functional barrier, and optimizes complexion tone in Caucasian and Asian skin. The ingredient can be applied to skin creams. The company’s Filmexel natural biopolymer creates a film that protects the skin from pollution irritants and allergens. It also has a lifting effect to smooth and attenuate wrinkles. Available in a powder format, the www.GCImagazine.com
ingredient allows brands to avoid using a preservative. Codif Laboratories unveiled its EPS White, which is intended to “reduce the appearance of the ‘pigmentary torch’ effect.” The ingredient is derived from a marine exopolysaccharide and protects the skin from UV- and pollution-induced inflammation. Algues & Mer presented Invincity, high-molecular-weight fucoidans found in brown seaweed harvested off the coast of France. The ingredient battles pollutioninduced skin aging by triggering the expression of genes controlling oxidative stress, inflammation and melanogenesis. Invincity reportedly reduces redness and dark spots and restores skin brightness. Gattefossé’s Gatuline Renew “relaunches the cell renewal mechanism” to hydrate, smooth and improve skin texture impacted by age, pollution and UV exposure.
SEPPIC presented a responsibly sourced palm antipollution cream featuring MONTANOV 68, a “green” oil-in-water emulsifier that is RSPO-grade.
Meanwhile, Sederma’s Citystem counteracts and prevents the penetration of pollutants and removes and neutralizes oxidant species. The China-compliant material refines skin grain and leaves it looking “purified” and smoother feeling. IBR Ltd. introduced IBR-Pristinizer, an aqueous extract of Asteriscus graveolens, which shields skin against pollution. The ingredient has antioxidant and antiinflammatory activity and “protects cells from air pollution induced cell death by reducing the expression of cell death related genes and stimulating expression of detoxifying phase I enzymes such as cytochrome p450,” according to the company. in-cosmetics 33
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Sustainability Can Be Simple and Efficient Throughout in-cosmetics, suppliers highlighted the need for simplicity and economy in creating sustainable products. Ashland presented multifunctional sustainable formulation concepts that incorporated fewer ingredients and hybrid technologies, leveraging multiple chemistries to simplify formulas that are also more stable and cost-efficient. Similarly, SEPPIC noted that the green trend is ramping up in the U.S. and Canadian markets, while biodegradability is a plus for Asian markets, while green concepts are cropping up in Korea. The company presented a concentrated purifying anti-pollution face cream developed with sustainable palm oil. SEPPIC also presented a four-in-one shave care product that requires no rinse, while adding moisture to the skin without a greasy skin feel. The company also showed a cold-processable detox cream gel, which were created to minimize environmental impact, as well as an ecofriendly deodorant and an algae-based makeup remover. A purifying cream utilized green chemistry.
New Tools for Boosting Sustainability On the ingredients side, in-cosmetics presented its Green Ingredient Awards to SEPPIC with Ephemer (gold), Sederma with Majestem (silver) and IBR with IBR-Pristinizer. The event also featured ingredients positioned to improve the sustainability profile of cosmetics and personal care products. BASF hosted a sustainability roundtable event to discuss strategies to partner along the value chain in order to boost sustainability and increase transparency for customers. Palm oil was a particular focus for the company. BASF also introduced Plantasil 4V, a cold-processible silicone alternative for conditioning shampoos. The product has good performance on wet hair and is compatible with other conditioning polymers. Ashland’s polyploid complexes that can create a structure like a gel matrix and be used in conditioning and styling, particularly for curly hair. The heatactivated materials hold definition over
time. The complexes can be used in clear conditioners and are cold-processed. During in-cosmetics, Ashland experts discussed the production of ingredients in a sustainable manner. The company is developing biofunctional products by fractionating key actives out of plants. The resulting plant waste can be dispensed back to the field, making the most of the waste stream. Evonik’s TEGO Solve 55, a solubilizer for essential oils and perfume, is PEGfree and ideal for water-based systems. Based on renewables, this biodegradable material has low odor and is highly stable. The ingredient also has mild cleansing and makeup removing properties, as well as moisturizing benefits. SEPPIC, which will cut its environmental footprint by 20% and have 100% of new products delivering at least one health or environmental benefit by 2020, has launched two new ranges of biodegradable emollients produced by Total Special Fluids, EmoSmart and EmoGreen. The China-compliant materials are applicable in skin and hair care, makeup, sun care and cleansing applications and can be used under extreme conditions, including high or low pH. INOFLEX unveiled SustOleo, a complete system of palm-free ingredients. And INOLEX, in cooperation with ieS Labo, launched PhytoTrace, a line of
traceable, sustainable extracts. The line includes: PhytoTrace Carrot, PhytoTrace Fig, PhytoTrace Lemon Verbena, PhytoTrace Olive, PhytoTrace Rice and PhytoTrace Saffron.
All That Glitters Color also proved to be a key element in the consumer experience focus at this year’s in-cosmetics. BASF showed off new effect pigments inspired by simplicity, serenity and purity. Flamenco Summit Aqua, a natural mica, had a blue shade with intense brightness ranging “from frosted white to deep digital blue.” The color has a fine, satin appearance appropriate for makeup and skin care applications. The company’s Reflecks Dimensions Brilliant Gold borosilicate had an intense gold hue and a sparkling effect and chroma. Used at low levels, the pigment produces a low glow and shimmer ranging from pink to strong gold, appropriate for the nude trend. The glamorous color can be used for hair and body. BASF’s Chione HD synthetic mica range was displayed in two concepts, one for radiant skin care and one for rinseoff and soap applications in which it has a “glowing” effect. DSM Personal Care’s Valvance Touch 250 brings a glimmer for an instant effect in formulations, such as makeup (lipstick, foundation, blush, etc.), skin care and sun care. Merck KGaA’s Timiron Halo White (INCI: not available) is an effect pigment for personal care applications, giving lotions, foundations, creams and makeup products a natural shimmer. Sun Chemical presented its SunCROMA portfolio of bright and bold pigments. The company also launched SunSHINE (INCI: designation Synthetic Flourphlogopite), a line of pearlescent pigments for skin and hair care formulations.
What’s Next? The 2016 in-cosmetics event signaled that the industry is heeding the call for more relevant innovation that centers on the consumer’s desire for experiences. It will be fascinating to see what comes in 2017, when in-cosmetics Global reconvenes at London’s ExCeL, April 4–6; www.in-cosmetics.com. n
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THE ANATOMY OF A LEADER IN PREMIUM PACKAGING
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SIMPLY SUSTAINABLE
Making
Personal Care
Greener When it comes to the increasingly powerful aspirational consumer, sustainability is critical for brand image, creating new challenges and opportunities for suppliers and marketers.
n JENNIFER DONAHUE, MARKETING MANAGER, CRODA NORTH AMERICA
∑ Natural personal care product claims have been increasing steadily in recent years, but brands must be sure to substantiate those claims. ∑ Pairing certification with “contains no” statements can boost consumer confidence and command a premium. ∑ At the same time, suppliers are building a more robust supply chain for brands via sustainability initiatives and by applying the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry.
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Simply Sustainable
“N
atural” formulations are one of the largest trends in personal care. Natural formulations, at minimum, make claims based on the botanical, plantbased ingredients they use. Some take an additional step and ensure they comply with stringent criteria outlined by the Natural Products Association (NPA) or United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic criteria.
Why Natural is Growing According to Mintel’s 2015 Global New Product Database (GNPD), roughly 35% of all product launches globally include a botanical/herbal claim, and less than 2% comply with NPA (Natural Products Association) guidelines globally. Since 2013 in North America, there has been a steady increase in product launches that make a
“natural” claim in their description, as well as products with a botanical/herbal claim. It’s easy to see why. The beauty of adding a botanical extract to your formulation is that consumers can readily identify botanical ingredients. This creates a feeling in the consumer that he or she is connected to nature, which in turn, inspires a feeling of well-being and in many cases, an emotional connection to the product and its brand. Many botanical stories are strengthened by a complementary fragrance to heighten the sensory experience.
Certification and Premiumization What are the criteria for certifying natural claims? There are various standards or criteria available to follow, like EcoCert/Cosmos in Europe or NPA in North America, as mentioned above.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.
GCI June 2016
A survey by Shelton Group conducted for UL Environment* identified the most influential claims (T-1). According to industry reports detailed in the survey, when certified claims like these are accompanied by qualifying language, such as “contains no parabens,” which clarifies what the consumer is or isn’t getting, brands can demand a price premium. However, making the claim “contains no parabens” alone without certification is said to lead to consumer confusion. The survey also found that use of certified claims can enhance positive brand image.
Why Consumers Buy Natural Aspirational consumers—consumers who are interested in the environmental and social impact of the products they buy—are a driving force behind the economy, and they expect that their product choices have the least environmental impact possible.** *http://sheltongrp.com/project/ul/ **www.npainfo.org
T-1. Most influential claims as determined by the Shelton Group Organization
Claim
Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics
Leaping Bunny—Not Animal Tested
USDA
Organic
USDA
Certified Bio-based Product
NPA
Certified
NPA defines a “natural” product as one that it believes furthers its mission to “maintain and improve” consumer health. But for consumers, personal wellbeing isn’t the only concern, according to NPA. The organization has said, “Natural products consumers are often motivated not only by their own health, but by making buying choices that lead to sustainability of the environment.”*** The trending desire for overall personal, social and environmental well-being is driving companies to evaluate their sustainability credentials and their natural ***Read Jennifer Donahue’s “Aspirational Consumers and the Environment,” from the July/August 2015 edition of GCI at www.gcimagazine.com/business/rd/ ingredients/
products and claims. General best practices, such as Paul Anastas’ and John Warner’s “12 Principals of Green Chemistry”**** focus on using renewable feedstocks, overall safe, non-toxic substances that do not persist in the environment, and the prevention of accidents and pollution— another hot trend today. Some consumer companies are reporting their use of renewable ingredients and others have publicly announced intentions to move away from petrochemical derived raw materials. In order to meet these reporting objectives, ingredient manufacturers must provide detailed information about material composition with as much traceability as possible. Looking at life cycle analysis and the overall footprint of each ingredient used, consumer companies are building databases of information that allow them to design formulations with environmental impact front of mind.
Building a Better Supply Chain While the industry has not regulated natural claims, there are strides being made in the raw material sector. The environmental impact of palm oil production has been brought to the public’s attention and organizations like the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) have developed programs to certify sustainably produced palm oil. This allows for environmentally minded manufacturers to influence significant changes along the palm oil supply chain by offering products made with Certified Sustainable Palm Oil (CSPO) derivatives. As palm oil is the most efficient oil crop available today, it is widely agreed that it makes environmental sense to continue to supply palm oil derivatives as long as they are sustainably sourced and there is transparency throughout the supply chain.
Many botanical stories are strengthened by a complementary fragrance to heighten the sensory experience. www.GCImagazine.com
****www.acs.org/content/acs/en/greenchemistry/ what-is-green-chemistry/principles/12-principles-ofgreen-chemistry.html Simply Sustainable
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SIMPLY SUSTAINABLE
Many of the functional surfactants that allow shampoos to clean hair and creams and lotions to stay together are currently made from ethylene oxide derivatives called ethoxylates, which are typically petrochemical based.
The Tension Between Natural and Sustainable As one of the green chemistry principles mentioned earlier, the use of renewable feedstocks in raw material development is critical to sustainability. And consumers like to know what’s in the products they use, especially when renewable resources are involved. However, many of the functional surfactants that allow shampoos to clean hair and creams and lotions to stay together are currently made from ethylene oxide derivatives called ethoxylates, which are typically petrochemical based. This can pose a concern for some consumers, who can be left with a tough decision: buy “natural” products and experience a potential sacrifice in performance or be less concerned with sustainable practices. Why not remove that difficult decision altogether by manufacturing a bio-based range of ethoxylated products using ethelyne oxide derived from bioethanol? These products can strike the balance
between performance and being fully renewable. Croda is taking that step with the development of a new plant at its Atlas Point site in Delaware. Bio-based ethoxylated products could be an exciting development for large and small companies alike, whether they have a defined “green” program or simply desire to communicate a higher level of transparency with their customers.
Making Natural Easier Consumers are increasingly basing their purchasing decisions on the environmental impact of a product and all that goes into it—the packaging as well as the raw materials. Transparency is key to winning them over. Fortunately, developments within the raw material industry, like the manufacture of bio-based ethoxylated products, will make it easier to provide them with naturally derived formulations that meet the consumer need for renewable products. n
38 Simply Sustainable GCI June 2016
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INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS
Her Day in the SUN Inside the savvy minds of sun care consumers.
n BY DENISE HERICH, THE BENCHMARKING COMPANY
I ∑ With awareness of UV light-induced
skin damage at an all-time high, and innovations in the category emerging on a daily basis, beauty consumers are eager for unique solutions to protect their skin, every day. It’s an exciting time for sun products in our industry.
∑ Today, women prefer products with added SPF benefits to a regular sunscreen (75%) and overwhelmingly, are willing to pay more for products with SPF (85%). ∑ Women want products that work very hard at protecting and safeguarding the skin, offer anti-aging benefits, and are elegant and comfortable to use.
40
Insights & Breakthroughs
n the summer, a beauty consumer’s fancy often turns to thoughts of what’s bright, fresh and fun, like sunny nail polishes, fruit-glazed lip glosses and beachy highlights, but they also turn to thoughts of more serious things, i.e.: sun safety. With awareness of UV light-induced skin damage at an all-time high, and innovations in the category emerging on a daily basis, beauty consumers are eager for unique solutions to protect their skin, every day. It’s an exciting time for sun products in our industry. This article highlights data from an original study of more than 4,500 U.S. females, conducted by The Benchmarking Company in March 2016, where women were asked dozens of questions about their sun care habits, preferences, motivators, influencers and their future sun care wish list.
She Looks at Sun Differently Fifty years ago, ads for sun products were quite a bit different than today—and consumers wanted different things. In 1966, the mark of a good sun care product was one that promoted a fast, deep suntan, while possibly also protecting against sun burn—and extremely dark suntans were equated with younger-looking skin! Today, we now know how dangerous this messaging was, and that it’s not just sunburn we need to protect our skin from but all sun exposure. Thankfully, consumers have taken this message to heart—and to their shopping preferences. Although a smallish percentage of women admit that they still lay out in the sun (37%), when asked what look is the most attractive, only 3% of women said a deep, dark tan. Instead, nearly half (45%) of women agree that only a slight tint of tan is the most attractive look. Some women (16%) even prefer rosy cheeks and a pink glow to a tan, period. In fact, 85% of women are concerned to very concerned about sun damage to their face; and 80% are concerned to very concerned about sun damage to their body. Beauty brands would be wise to consider a sun protection product as part of their core lineup. Consumers want them, we all need them, and the desire for unique options is growing.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.
GCI June 2016
But She’s Unclear About the Sun’s Hazards Although more than a third (or more) of women admit to having some kind of hyperpigmentation, such as sun spots, freckles, age spots, skin discoloration or the like, there unfortunately still seems to be a slight disconnect on just how damaging sun exposure is to the skin and to overall health. When asked which skin conditions are both caused and worsened by exposure to the sun, answers were mixed. Although 30% of women know that uneven skin pigmentation is worsened by sun exposure, only 15% realize it’s also caused by exposure to the sun in the first place. Even more alarming? Only 8% of women with active skin cancer realize it can be caused by sun exposure, and just 5% realize that it is worsened by continued exposure. Instead, it seems as if beauty consumers have more deeply embraced and understood the anti-aging messages linked to sun damage and, in particular, that exposure to the sun worsens the appearance of wrinkles (40%).
Yet She Still Uses SPF But it’s not all bad news. Fifty-three percent of women wear SPF on their face on a daily basis, with another 33% wearing it when they expect to be exposed to the sun. Only 9% of women say they wear SPF on their face only when they remember to apply it. Although the percentage of women wearing SPF every day on their body is dramatically lower (14%) than for the face, the fact that women are using body sunscreen on a daily basis at all is a step in the right direction. Admittedly, her SPF use isn’t perfect, but women feel they understand the difference between health and beauty products with sun protection added (such as an SPF primer) vs. products which are pure sun blocks (64%), and most women are using sun protection, of some kind, every day in their beauty regimen. Ninety-two percent of women use skin care with SPF, and 70% use facial moisturizer and body products with SPF; 69% use foundation or makeup with SPF; 63% use a dedicated facial SPF.
She Wants to Protect Herself … Differently Twenty years ago, women might not have been sure about a moisturizer with SPF; www.GCImagazine.com
Thirty-six percent of women would like an oral dietary supplement that would provide hours of protection against UV rays from within—a relatively new way to think of protecting against sun damage.
today, however, women prefer products with added SPF benefits to a regular sunscreen (75%) and, overwhelmingly, beauty consumers are willing to pay more for products with SPF (85%). Why? Mostly because these multitasking products can easily be blended into her daily routine (73%), because they offer skin care and SPF benefits (70%), and because these products don’t have that telltale sticky, heavy feel of many traditional sunscreens (62%). However, there are still a few reasons why she prefers traditional sunscreen over a multitasking product: traditional sun blocks offer sweat-proof/waterproof options (63%), and they offer differing levels of SPF (52%)— which means it’s time to start thinking innovation and product development. In addition to a daily moisturizer with SPF that is waterproof/sweat-proof and offers varying levels of SPF protection, the SPF-infused products that beauty consumers are most interested in include hair care products (66%); color cosmetics, such as lipstick, eyeshadow and powder (60%); and facial serums (57%). Women are particularly keen on products for the hair and scalp. Seventy-three percent are very interested in a product that would provide UV protection specifically to the scalp, while 70% are interested in a product that provides both moisturization and SPF protection to ward off flakes/ peeling of the scalp. A smaller percentage (67%) would like a product to help prevent hair color from fading in the sun.
She Wants Innovation Beauty consumers are also very interested in some outside-the-box sun products, such as ingestibles. Thirty-six percent of women would like an oral dietary supplement that would provide hours of protection against UV rays from within—a relatively new way to think of protecting against sun damage. Women would also like products that help correct the appearance of crepe skin on the lower legs (58%), and a self-tanning product that has SPF 30+ and will last for several days, such as over a weekend (48%). The shift in attitude toward SPF products over the last 50 years is indicative of where sun care research and development needs to go, and just how important innovations in sun protection products are to beauty consumers today. Women want options which will let them keep tanning safely— if such a thing even exists—but those products had also better work very hard at protecting and safeguarding the skin, offer anti-aging benefits, and be elegant and comfortable to use. n
DENISE HERICH is co-founder and managing partner at The Benchmarking Company (www.benchmarkingcompany.com), which provides marketing and strategy professionals in the beauty and personal care industries with information about its customers and prospects through custom consumer research studies, focus groups, its annual PinkReport, and consumer beauty product testing for marketing claims.
Insights & Breakthroughs
41
PACKAGING INNOVATIONS
Cooking Up
the Perfect Package, Part 1 A marketer’s step-by-step recipe for packaging development in any product category.
∑ While packaging development begins with the establishment of a concept, the team must have realistic expectations and be prepared to improvise. ∑ The RACI (Responsible Accountable Consulted Informed) chart is an extremely valuable tool to use to help the team gain alignment on who’s doing what. ∑ Once a technical product profile is developed, the group will then be ready to advance to the feasibility phase.
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Packaging Innovations
n BY JOHN MORGAN This article is the first of a four-part series which examines each of the phases of the package development process (F-1): conception, feasibility, development and execution. Having worked for some of the most prestigious companies in the beauty industry over the past 15 years, my goal in writing this series is to synthesize my personal experience to provide a clear and concise step-by-step guideline for marketers to use as a reference tool when working with their package development counterparts. Following the steps outlined in each of the four phases will dramatically improve your chances of successfully developing and launching new product regardless of the product category. This article is meant to be used as a tool that you can reference throughout the process to ensure you are staying on track with each task. –John Morgan
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.
GCI June 2016
A
s a packaging engineer and an aspiring chef, I can’t help but draw similarities between the package development process (F-1) and planning for a dinner party. When preparing for a dinner party there is a series of successive phases one must follow to ensure the best possible outcome. In the same manner, the package development process follows distinctive phases.
Establish Your Concept The conception phase is when you ask yourself: “What is it that I want to create?” When you are preparing a meal, you may ask: “What type of cuisine should I make, how many courses should dinner be and when should the party be?” When developing a package, similar questions must be answered: “What package form (i.e., bottle, tube, jar) should I select?” or “What colors and shapes should my package be?” Once you have answered these questions and established the product concepts, you have completed the first phase of the process.
Developing Realistic Expectations The second phase of the process is feasibility. This is when you pose questions such as: “Do I have the budget, resources and time to bring my idea to life?” It’s all too often that, during the feasibility phase, you realize that modifications are necessary. “Even though I wanted to make fresh homemade pasta for my dinner party I don’t have the time, money or equipment, so I have to use store-bought instead.” This
is similar to wanting a completely metalized shiny gold package for your premium skin care launch for which you can only afford a hot-stamped logo. Once you’ve made the necessary adjustments and have a product concept that you can afford—and launch on time— you’ve completed the feasibility phase. It’s now time to start cooking.
Be Prepared to Improvise Development is usually the longest of the four phases. Depending on the cooking instructions, a meal can take a few days of preparation in advance for it to turn out as desired. During the development phase in packaging, you also must be prepared to make adjustments along the way. After all, that’s why it’s called “development.” Many times what you’ve envisioned doesn’t turn out to be true in reality, so improvising becomes part of the game. Sometimes I need to add an extra spoon of flour (more than what the recipe called for) to thicken a sauce or an extra pinch of salt to optimize the taste of a creation.
Execution Now the cooking is done and it’s time to start the party. Execution is the fourth and final phase of the process. This is where everything you’ve worked so hard on culminates in the creation of the final product. You’ve used the freshest ingredients, you’ve followed the recipes to the tee and setup the dinner table. Your guests start eating, everyone is ranting and raving about how delicious everything is, and they are even going back for seconds (product is flying off the shelves).
You’ve completed the process on time, on budget and within design specifications. Congratulations your product launch is a huge success. Now that you have learned about the processes, let’s talk about organization and teamwork and, later, we’ll delve further into the intricacies of each individual phase.
RACI: A Note on Organization and Teamwork Before we take a closer look at each individual phase, it’s important to note the process of developing and launching new products is extremely team-centric. Therefore, the success of the process is heavily dependent on the team’s ability to work together effectively. Since many tasks are interdependent, it is critical that each team member completes their tasks correctly and on time to ensure success. The RACI (Responsible Accountable Consulted Informed) chart (T-1) is an extremely valuable tool to use to help the team gain alignment on who’s doing what. I have developed a RACI* for the seven steps encompassing the conception phase for you to use as a reference. The definitions are as follow: • Responsible: Those who do the work to achieve the task. For each step there is at least one party that is responsible; however, multiple parties can be responsible to complete a task or deliverable. *M Jacka and P Keller, Business Process Mapping: Improving Customer Satisfaction. John Wiley and Sons, p. 257 (2009)
F-1
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Packaging Innovations 43
PACKAGING INNOVATIONS
T-1. RACI CHART PACKAGE DEVELOPMENT: CONCEPTION PHASE
• Accountable: Those who are ultimately answerable or accountable for the correct completion of the deliverable or task. There must be only one accountable party specified for each task or deliverable. • Consulted: Those whose opinions are sought, typically subject matter experts. There could be multiple parties that are consulted to complete a task or deliverable. • Informed: Those who are kept upto-date on progress, often only on completion of the task or deliverable and with whom there is just one-way communication.
The 7 Steps of Conception As mentioned earlier, conception is the first phase of the project, when ideas are turned in to concepts. This phase comprises seven steps.
1. Developing a Marketing Strategy
This step’s objective entails establishing the product portfolio, identifying your target consumer, projecting financial requirements and completing a competitive landscape analysis. This is the information necessary to develop a complete concept. Completing the competitive analysis will make you better informed when making key decisions regarding packaging and will enable you to identify competitive product benchmarks which you can reference when establishing your product design requirements. Best practice: Include your package development counterpart in this step and make this activity fun. Schedule some time to go on a competitive shopping trip together. Being in an environment outside of the office is a great way to get inspiration for creative ideas. It’s also a great way to strengthen the relationship and build trust within the team. An original sketch of the Yonwoo Presto Jar; courtesy of Yonwoo/PKG.
Output: Completion of marketing strategy and competitive landscape analysis.
2. Create Development Initiation Brief This document is used to initiate the project. It outlines critical information about the product concepts and enables the team to begin evaluating the project. Reference F-2 for information that must be included in the development initiation brief. Best practice: Make sure the brief is complete. Missing information will prevent the team from fully assessing the concepts. Once the brief is completed, email it to the rest of the team prior to the kickoff meeting. Output: Completion and issuance of the development initiation brief.
3. Project Kickoff Meeting Schedule this meeting a few days after issuance of the development initiation brief. Participants should include package development, creative design or the outside design agency, product development (i.e., formulation) and procurement. During this meeting you should review the completed brief with the team to ensure everyone is aligned on the desired product concepts and expectations. Best practice: Bring data and samples of products from the competitive analysis to share with the team to establish benchmarks. Allow time for an open discussion among the team during the meeting.
44 Packaging Innovations GCI June 2016
Output: Team is briefed on project and can begin evaluation.
4. Create the Product Conception Profile The objective of this step is to create the product concept profile (F-2). This document is intended to capture critical product characteristics from the consumer’s standpoint. It is essentially the “contract” between the team that outlines the desired attributes of the product that will be developed. There are several sub-steps that are necessary to complete this step, which are outlined below: a. Packaging development engineer extracts the pertinent information from the development initiation brief to begin drafting the product conception profile. b. Packaging development engineer schedules a meeting to review the document. This is a working meeting during which the team begins to establish critical characteristics
F-2
of the product. Reference the document flow infographic (F-2) for information that must be included in the conception profile. Best practice: Use benchmark products for sensorial and functional attributes. For example, the wall thickness of a squeezable tube, the audible snap of a flip-cap, the weight of a prestige compact or product fill level of a shampoo bottle. Output: Completion of initial draft of the product conception profile.
5. Aesthetic Design Turnover The objective of this step is to refine the product design concepts and approve final product aesthetics. This step entails working with the creative team to refine and finalize the design of the product concepts, including packaging. Upon completion, aesthetic models of the package portraying the size, shape and colors of the product are produced. This process can take several rounds until a final decision is made.
Output: Final product design and turnover of aesthetic models to packaging development.
6. Route and Approve Product Conception Profile Here, the packaging development engineer makes final edits to the product conception profile document based on the finalized product design and provides hard copies of the final document to marketing for routing and approval by management. Best practice: Review the document first before distributing to management. Any comments/notations made during the review process can be handwritten on the document. Upon approval by all parties, the packaging development engineer scans the document and archives it in the product folder. Output: Final product profile document signed by management.
7. Creation of the Technical Product Profile Here the package development engineer utilizes the approved product conception profile along with the benchmarks and aesthetic models to begin creation of the technical product profile. This document is used to initiate the technical feasibility of the product concepts. Once again, refer to F-2 for information that must be included in this document. Best practice: Package development engineering routes the completed technical product profile to procurement, manufacturing and external suppliers to initiate the feasibly phase of the project. Output: Completion and issuances of the technical product profile complete.
Next Steps With the completion of the above seven steps, the team has now completed the first phase of the package development process and is now ready to start the feasibility phase, which will be the topic of the second article in this series. Now it’s really time to get cooking. n
JOHN MORGAN is a package development expert with over 15 years of experience in the beauty industry. Morgan has worked on numerous development projects on brands such as Artistry Cosmetics, Garnier Fructis, Maybelline and MAC Cosmetics. Most recently he has worked for Amway as a senior scientist in open innovation. He can be reached at johnrm26@gmail.com.
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Packaging Innovations 45
SIMPLY SUSTAINABLE
From luxury to biotechnology, French organic brands are leading innovation.
n BY LAURA ZIV
∑ France has a strong legacy of organic certification, which can be seen in a range of beauty and fragrance brands. ∑ Brands have embraced luxury and science to infuse their products with unique properties. ∑ At the same time, a disciplined focus on non-synthetic ingredients and safety dominates the category.
The organic personal care industry, including cosmetics, is forecast to grow at a rate of 9.6%, reaching $13.2 billion by 2018, according to Transparency Market Research (www.transparencymarketresearch.com). By 2020, the market is expected to reach $15.98 billion, according to Grand View Research (www.grandviewresearch.com). Fragrance represents an emerging opportunity for beauty and personal care brands in this space. Here, author Laura Ziv explores several French brands’ innovative approaches to this growing category. -Editor
I
f it is important to you that the food you eat is organic and the products you put on your skin are organic, increasingly, chances are that the fragrances you select will also be organic and ecologically sound.
Understanding “Organic” What exactly are organic fragrances? The term “organic” is defined differently
by various certification and governmental organizations around the world. However, organic in general refers to the way ingredients are grown and processed, particularly the prohibition of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, as well as synthetic processing aids. As a result, organic fragrances tend to be free of synthetic chemicals, those multisyllabic, “hard-to-pronounce” ingredients that consumers are increasingly concerned will be absorbed into their skin with perceived adverse health effects.* Most importantly, organic differs from “natural” and “eco” in that only “organic” can be certified by governmental bodies such as the U.S. Department of Agriculture, thereby assuring clear standards and authenticity for consumers. *Organic is not as simplistic as consumers might believe. Ironically, organic ingredients tend to be complex mixtures of naturally occurring chemicals with complex names. In organic passionfruit, for instance, one will find themselves consuming allnatural 3-mercapto-3-methylbutyl ethanoate.
46 Simply Sustainable GCI June 2016 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.
Honoré des Prés’ fragrances are refined and frequently described as “haute organic.” The brand’s most well-known collection is I LOVE NY, which “encapsulates French couture and New York’s unmistakable atmosphere,” and is unconventionally packaged in distinctive, NYC-inspired coffee cups. Vamp A NY features notes of tuberose, rum and Bourbon vanilla. Love Coconut is made with white coconut milk, coriander leaf and white cedar, and Love Les Carottes blends raw carrots with sweet orange and iris butter. Another collection, Les Verrines d’Honoré, is packaged in eminently collectable French-style marmalade jars that can be recycled after use.
Bee-inspired Beauty Founded by a French biologist and beekeeper in 1983, Melvita is France’s largest certified organic beauty brand. Headquartered in the Ardeche region of south-central France, Melvita was one
A French Organic Legacy
Haute Organic
In France, the birthplace of modern perfumery, EcoCert (www.ecocert.com) is the principle certification body, and in fact, the very first organization to develop standards for organic products. The EcoCert standard, established in 2003, ensures the use of ingredients derived from renewable resources and manufactured using environmentally friendly processes. EcoCert also ensures the absence of GMOs, parabens, phenoxyethanol, silicon, synthetic perfumes and dyes, and animalderived ingredients (unless naturally produced by them, for example milk and honey). The certification also vouches for the biodegradable or recyclable nature of packaging, and that a minimum threshold (95%) of natural ingredients stem from organic farming. Today, a number of French organic brands are responding to the demand for organic products perceived as “good-foryou” with EcoCert labels.
Honoré des Prés is a luxury, eco-friendly fragrance brand that crafts organic fragrances from pure botanical ingredients. These “pure extracts of nature,” as the brand calls them, are free from petrochemicals, coloring agents, phthalates and synthetic perfumes. The name Honoré des Prés alludes to the sophistication of the brand by using a contraction of rue Faubourg SaintHonoré and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, two of the most elegant areas in Paris. Indeed,
www.GCImagazine.com
Honoré des Prés’ fragrances are refined and frequently described as “haute organic.”
Melvita was one of the first-ever brands to be granted the EcoCert label for certified organic products.
of the first-ever brands to be granted the EcoCert label for certified organic products. The name “Melvita” derives from two Latin words: “mel,” meaning honey, and “vita,” meaning life, which, according to Melvita’s founder Bernard Chevilliat, “sits at the confluence between the plant and animal worlds.” All of Melvita’s products are produced with “nature at heart” and are inspired by the unique relationship between bees and nature. The brand’s first product was a hexagonal soap made from honey, now a flagship product. Approximately one-third of the products are based on bee products, like propolis, royal jelly, pollen or honey. Melvita’s fragrances are based on single notes or ingredient pairings (Lime, Wild Simply Sustainable 47
SIMPLY SUSTAINABLE Roses, Gardenia & Ylang Ylang, Jasmine Bergamot). From its eco-factory to the fairtrade sourcing of ingredients, the brand’s focus is resolutely on safe and natural beauty products. Additionally, the Melvita Foundation supports projects that protect bees and promote organic farming.
Science-driven Organic Patyka, a Hungarian word meaning “apothecary,” is a Parisian beauty brand offering luxury organic skin care and fragranced body care. The brand’s products feature active botanical ingredients and plant extracts that are refined by advanced biotechnology. The collections are also highly sensorial, with luxurious textures and enticing scents, such as Precious Woods, Lotus & Cotton, Pearl Grape and Divine Neroli. Patyka’s best-known product is Huile Absolue, described as a “sacred love elixir” with 12 organic essential oils. All of Patyka’s products are EcoCert organic and environmentally sustainable, free of synthetic and toxic chemicals.
All of Patyka’s products are EcoCert organic and environmentally sustainable, free of synthetic and toxic chemicals.
Soul of a Flower Florame, an evocative name that is the confluence of the words “flower” and “soul” in French, specializes in organic essential oil-based beauty and aromatherapy products. The brand boasts the largest catalogue of essential oils in the world, with products from the five continents, including ylang ylang from Madagascar where Florame
Florame, an evocative name that is the confluence of the words “flower” and “soul” in French, specializes in organic essential oil-based beauty and aromatherapy products.
is involved in a development program. Since 2008, the program has combined the production of high-quality essential oils that also promote social commitment to fair trade projects. n
LAURA ZIV is a creative brand strategist specializing in beauty, fragrance and personal care. Her work spans trend analysis, innovation, ideation and concept development for brands. Ziv has a Master of Arts from Oxford University, and previously worked as a magazine writer and editor for international magazines based in New York.
48 Simply Sustainable GCI June 2016
INGREDIENTS & CLAIMS in-cosmetics Innovation Roundup The recent in-cosmetics Paris presented innovations from 784 exhibitors. GCI presents a selection of the unique ingredients on display, signalling future performance and claims breakthroughs ahead for the cosmetic and personal care industry.
High-performance Hair AkzoNobel’s Amphor Edge polymer (INCI: Octylacrylamide/ Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer) provides the stiffness and high humidity resistance of the existing Amphor polymer, but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and style retention. Angus’ AMP-Ultra PC can be applied to hair sprays and gels to impart curl resistance in high humiditiy. The hypoallergenic material can improve emulsion stability in mascaras and other eye products. Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ Advantage 2VC-P polymer (INCI: not available) is an anionic film-forming technology, which functions as a hair fixative.
DSM Personal Care’s new range of Tilmar polymers help change hair care routines. The range consists of: Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-22. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Defenscalp (INCI: Water (and) Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) helps decrease sebum production on scalp, reduces the appearance of dandruff flakes and soothes scalp irritation. Evonik’s TEGO Cosmo C 100 is a conditioning agent applicable to hair sprays and conditioners appropriate for Caucasian bleached and ethnic relaxed hair. The material reduces breakage and rebuilds inner hair structure. In Asian straightened hair, the ingredient protects against heat stress and protects inner hair structure.
Texture-forward Innovations Bluestar Silicones presented its Mirasil range for the beauty and personal care markets. Mirasil Balance (INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) is an emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-silicone emulsions; Mirasil Caprylyl TSO (INCI: Caprylyl Methicone) is an emollient with spreading power, specifically for non-polar liquids,
leaving a non-tacky skin feel; Mirasil Cetyl DM (INCI: Cetyl Dimethicone) is a liquid silicone wax compatible with cosmetic ingredients, which leaves a durable velvet touch on the skin; and Mirasil PEG 12 DM (INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone) is a versatile silicone surfactant, which offers multiple benefits, such as foam stabilization, a light conditioning effect and silky feel.
New Preservation Active Concepts’ Leucidal Liquid Complete (INCI: Leuconostoc/ Radish Root Ferment Filtrate & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract) offers broad spectrum antimicrobial protection, providing moisturization and conditioning properties, while preventing the growth of bacteria. Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ Optiphen DLP preservative (INCI: not available) provides antifungal-boosting properties at lower use levels and full protection at high use levels. The company also introduced Leucidal SF Complete (INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract), which is a salicylate-free approach to broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection. Dr. Straetmans’ Verstatil MPC allows formulators to work with low levels of phenoxyethanol, while achieving a safe, reliable and economic preservation. The company is also launching Verstatil synacid (INCI: not available), a system not only efficient against standard germs, but also exhibiting proven efficacy against other problematic microorganisms and resistant house germs. Vertellus’ Freshstat (INCI: Cetylpyridinium Chloride [CPC]) is a deodorizing agent and preservative based on CPC. Ample ingestion data exists for CPC due to its use in oral care. The material is positioned to allay NGO chemical fears and comply with retailer standards, according to the company. Freshstat’s deodorizing and preservative activity provides efficacy without destabilizing formulas. Available in liquid form, the colorless, odorless and biodegradable material can be used in low dosage rages in products such as creams, makeup remover, deodorants, rinse-off conditioners, bar soaps, shampoos and body washes. The ingredient works in a broad pH range, from 4 to 10.
Skin Care for Every Age Bayer HealthCare Division Serdex has launched Madecassoside (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) for patients with atopy-prone, sensitive or mature skin to help with chronic inflammation and to care for dry skin. Croda Personal Care’s Prolevis (INCI: Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein) helps provide instant skin-smoothing of visible surface wrinkles and imperfections. Greenaltech’s Algaktiv Zen (INCI: not available) is a microalgae blend that helps restore the homeostasis of the skin
50 Ingredients & Claims GCI June 2016
INGREDIENTS & CLAIMS by protecting it from inner stress signals and restoring skin’s natural circadian rhythm. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Miniporyl (INCI: Isopentyldiol (and) Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract) reduces the appearance of pores, decreases sebum production and is detoxifying. Naolys’ OvernightEnhance [MJ+C] is an active plant shell, made with Four O’Clock cells and caffeine to achieve radiance and boost nighttime skin activity.
Vertellus’ ZeMac non-toxic microencapsulation technology can be used for fragrances. The material controls the mean particle size distribution in formulations and provides slow release and high stability in water-based emulsions. n
Alban Muller International has launched a range of natural and eco-responsible extracts, Tinctamis, from dyeing plants with multiple traditional benefits and a large choice of colors. Developed by Couleurs De Plantes, Tinctamis are highly concentrated in actives and is based on a manufacturing process that uses only natural solvents, purification steps and low-temperature zeodration, which saves energy and preserves the integrity of molecules. Tinctamis are available as insoluble dry extracts for natural make-up and natural emulsions with subtle colors, and water-soluble dry extracts useful in toiletries as shampoos for natural-looking highlights. The Tinctamis extracts range includes reds like madder and sorghum, yellows like golden rod, a pink violet range from sappan wood and a brown range from chestnut, among others. n www.GCImagazine.com
Everything Under the Sun DSM Personal Care’s Amphisol K is an oil-in-water emulsifier, delivering sunscreen stability. Givaudan’s Vegetan Gold (INCI: not available) is an oil-soluble selftanning molecule. Greentech’s Soliberine (INCI: not available) absorbs UVA and UVB radiations, harmful to skin cells, while stimulating cellular detoxification mechanisms. n
TEGO Solve 55 (proposed INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate/Caprate/ Succinate; Propylene Glycol) is Evonik’s new PEG-free solubilizer for essential and perfume oils in water-based cosmetic systems. This polyglycerin ester has the ability to prepare mixtures with oils and water. Examples of the solubilizing of essential oils include rosemary, lemon, lemongrass and lavender oil. This ingredient is based on renewable raw materials, such as on rapeseed and palm kernel oil, and is suitable for natural cosmetics. n
Northstar Lipids has launched a versatile skin emollient, English poppy seed oil (INCI: Papaver Somniferum seed oil), which is Ecocert natural certified and grown and processed 100% in the United Kingdom. Cold-pressed English poppy seed oil, which contains vitamin E, helps improve skin conditions through direct applications, such as massage oils, dry skin creams, body lotions and butters. The ingredient is a nonirritant and, therefore, can be used in baby lotions and diaper creams. It can also be applied as a hair and scalp conditioning emollient to reduce dryness in the scalp, while improving hair condition, sheen and overall appearance. n Ingredients & Claims 51
PACKAGING INNOVATIONS Great Packaging Should Make Us Feel n SHEHERAZADE FOROUGHI-CHAMLOU, SGD
P
erfumes are timeless, but packaging designs get more and more creative and unconventional. Today’s would-be-fragrance consumers must be wowed into trying something new. They want craftsmanship and brand experience, not just a product. So, how can brands create innovative designs that also add value and catch the consumers’ attention?
Engage Emotions Emotional engagement is a leading indicator of consumer behavior, sales and profitability. With millennial consumers more motivated by stories than by traditional media, fragrance brands that lead in earned media performance tell unique stories that appeal to the individual on a meaningful level. To account for this shift in consumer interests with respect to fragrance, brands should focus on leveraging three concepts that are epitomized by consumers: storytelling, self-expression and customization.
Be Creative, Personalize and Capture Trends Brands must inject creativity and personalization into their packaging efforts to stand out and make stronger connections with their audiences. For instance, in order to help fragrance brands better respond to trends in the marketplace and create innovative designs that are memorable and recognizable, our company conducts an annual trends presentation for its clients. This presentation is a “B to B to C” marketing exercise done in collaboration with SGD’s R&D department. The marketing team gathers inspiration from pictures, products, store visits, extensive travel and customer feedback with the help of the online trend agency WGSN. The latest trends are translated into decorative concepts which are presented through inspirational videos and mood boards. These interpretations of upcoming and future fashion-led trends are illustrated through inventive decorations on SGD’s “La Collection” glass bottles (pictured). The trends are designed with a global approach to the beauty market, and include various product segments, geographies and consumer segmentations. The inks and materials used in these trends
SGD’s “La Collection” glass bottles.
provide sensorial effects and tactile textures which have proven to be surprising sources for inspiration and personalization.
Form Human Connections The overarching trend impacting beauty packaging design in 2016 is “time.” The digital age is fostering a decline in human connection in an increasingly online and mobile world, so communication is the key to engaging consumers. This trend can be expressed in different ways from a connection to nature, a connection to the past and, not to forget, a connection to playtime. Characteristics of this trend range from soft and understated color palettes to pops of fun and bold colors. Sophisticated product packaging changes every year. Without regularly assessing market conditions and updating accordingly, brands run the risk that their package design could lag behind the competition. To continue growing sales, brands must stay ahead of the curve. n
SHEHERAZADE FOROUGHI-CHAMLOU for the past 20 years has been part of the international sales team of SGD, where she is currently vice president of sales and marketing at SGD North America in New York. In her current position, in addition to marketing, she also has sales responsibility for all accounts in North America.
Innovation and breaking news daily: Subscribe to GCI’s newsletter at www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter 52 Packaging Innovations GCI June 2016
PACKAGING INNOVATIONS
Aptar Beauty + Home’s GS Lotion Dispenser was used on Live for Tomorrow (LFT) Clean Mitts Hand Soap, which is a highly concentrated plant and mineral-based lavender hand soap formula. n
VariBlend now offers five versions of its 40 mm MidiMix variable dispenser for cosmetics and personal care products that require small to medium dosages. The 40 mm family includes: Variable, which permits any setting and mix; Regimen, for daily or weekly treatment and varying mix (e.g., Week 1 80/20, Week 2 60/40, etc.); A or B Simple Select, for A or B only at 100%, for “before/ after” treatments; Fixed Ratio 50/50, which now includes a locking position; and Super Select, which allows a choice of A or B (Simple Select), or 50/50. As a result, the dispensers offer custom-blending of colors and scents, varying strengths and intensities, separation of ingredients and more. The 40 mm family is available in a variety of bottle sizes (such as the 15, 20 and 30 mL) as well as airless and non-airless, with nozzle combinations that include single-, dual- and spout-nozzle. n
Spectra’s Oval Snap-on Flip-top Closures are available in a high-gloss finish. It currently fits the company’s new 250 mL Elba Oval and has been designed to fit a number of up-and-coming packs that Spectra has in development. Spectra’s new closure features a dish profile suitable for pad-applied products. The cap also features an ergonomic curved thumb opening. n
Currier Plastics is widening its reach in the cosmetics, personal care and food industry packaging space by placing its bets on new, higher-capacity stretch blow molding machines. The two new Aoki Injection Stretch Blow Molding (ISBM) Machines, featuring a higher tonnage range, are scheduled to arrive at the end of the second quarter. They will allow for higher cavitation molds for wide-mouth jar molding. “Our current clients are always pushing for new technologies to help them grow their market share along with our new prospects who are looking for high quality domestic partners,” said Steve Crawford, blow molding engineering manager. n
VariBlend’s Fusion Pod dispenser is a multi-element system the keeps actives apart, in a self-contained pod, from the main ingredient until the moment of usage. This packaging is suitable for a variety of regimen-based product categories, such as skin care, sunless tanning and hair care that deliver a different multi-element formula over time and require ingredient separation or precise mixing and blending at the moment of application. n
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Packaging Innovations 53
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54 Products and Services Showcase GCI June 2016
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Products and Services Showcase 55
AD INDEX The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.
PAGE
ADVERTISER
PHONE
WEB SITE
BASF
1-973-245-6000
www.carecreations.basf.com
Berjé, Inc.
1-973-748-8980
www.berjeinc.com
Cover 3
Bioscreen Testing Services
1-310-214-0043
www.bioscreen.com
Cover 4
Centerchem, Inc.
1-203-822-9800
www.centerchem.com
Classic Cosmetics, Inc
1-818-773-9042
www.classiccosmetics.com
Compax Packaging
1-888-550-8050
www.compaxpackaging.com
13
Essential Wholesale
1-877-939-5227
www.essentiallabs.com
17
Fusion Packaging
1-214-747-2004
www.fusionpkg.com
49
ICMAD
1-847-991-4499
www.icmad.org
35
Inoac Packaging Group, Inc.
1-502-348-5159
www.inoacusa.com
21
JSN Packaging Products, Inc.
1-949-458-0050
www.jsn.com
Mane USA
1-973-633-5533
www.mane.com
27
schülke, Inc.
1-973-770-7300
www.schuelke.com
33
Spectra Colors Corp.
1-201-997-0606
www.spectracolors.com
29
Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.
1-800-985-2228
www.sundeepinc.com
38
Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.
1-973-465-1200
www.welch-holme-clark.com
5 11
19 Cover 2
3
56 Ad Index GCI June 2016
THE INDUSTRY LEADER IN PATCH TESTING TEST WITH THE BEST! • FDA REGISTERED •
“THE FINE ART OF PERSONAL SERVICE”
SYN®-HYCAN
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North American Distributor:
CENTERCHEM, INC. 20 Glover Avenue, Norwalk, CT 08650 Phone: +1 203 822 9800. Fax: +1 203 822 9820 E-mail: cosmetics@centerchem.com www.centerchem.com
Needle-free hyaluronan booster enhances beauty from within. SYN®-HYCAN helps to fight skin sagging by boosting hyaluronan content in the skin. Additionally, the tripeptide increases the expression of decorin and lumican, two very important proteoglycans which support the formation of new collagen fibrils and increase their quality and strength. SYN®-HYCAN visibly reduces skin sagging in the chin and décolleté area and leads to a noticeable remodelling effect and firmer skin.