GCI Magazine 11 November 2016

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CONTENTS

NOVEMBER 2016 | VOLUME 184, NUMBER 9

30 FEATURES 10 Social Media is Reshaping Beauty Product Development

14 5 Indie Trendsetters

Highlights from the Indie Beauty expo reveal the latest innovations among entrepreneurial brands.

BY ADA POLLA

18 Show, Don’t Tell

Unlocking brand value with amazing imagery and visual cues.

BY SHERI L. KOETTING

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22 Power to the People

New omnichannel models for brands and retailers are delivering unique messaging and personal shopping experiences to customers of every category.

BY JEFFREY TEN

30 Skin Deeper

Dermocosmetics could finally set beauty-from-within in motion.

BY NICHOLAS MICALLEF

34 Stopping the Clock

Raising the bar from anti-aging to true cosmeceuticals.

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BY LISA DOYLE

38 Instagram-friendly Beauty Title

Digital-savvy consumers are driving new trends in beauty.

BY IMOGEN MATTHEWS

42 6 Innovative Emerging Cosmetics Trends Behind every color cosmetic trend is the need for a great-feeling product that applies easily and delivers the powerful visual effects consumers want.

BY JENNIFER DONAHUE

46 K-innovation

These are the hottest trends in K-beauty today.

BY LAURA ZIV

18 www.GCImagazine.com

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CONTENTS 14

EDITORIAL

Director Editor in Chief Associate Editor Assistant Editor Digital/Social Media Editor

Jo-El M. Grossman Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES Business Development Manager Kim Jednachowski | 1-630-344-6054/kjednachowski@allured.com Business Development Manager Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com Fragrance Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Director Linda Schmitt Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan Marketing Assistant Alyssa Howard Customer Service 1-888-399-0899/customerservice@gcimagazine.com

DESIGN

DEPARTMENTS 4 Spark: Innovation is Beautiful

BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

6 10 12 22 50 52

Insights & Breakthroughs Beauty Buzz

Graphic Design Manager Senior Graphic Designer Production Manager

Lisa Hede Hon Bannapradist Bryan Crowe

CORPORATE Partner & President Partner & CEO Controller Group Show Director Digital Products Director Executive Assistant

Janet Ludwig George Fox Linda Getner Sandy Chapin Rose Southard Maria Romero

Brands & Benchmarks Beauty Channels Ingredients & Claims Packaging Innovations

RESOURCES 54 Products & Services Showcase 56 Advertiser Index

OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS Allured Business Media 1-630-653-2155 • fax 1-630-653-2192 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA www.Allured.com

Alluredbooks Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit Skin Inc. magazine Face & Body Midwest Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Northern California Spa Conference and Expo Face & Body Southeast Spa Conference and Expo Perfumer & Flavorist magazine World Perfumery Congress Flavorcon

Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.GCImagazine.com/subscribe In the US, telephone: 1-888-399-0899, Outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7557 (9 AM–5 PM Central, Mon-Fri) | Fax: 1-847-291-4816 E-mail: customerservice@gcimagazine.com Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States. All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition. Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Global Cosmetic Industry (ISSN 1523-9470) is published ten times per year as Jan./Feb., March, April, May, June, July/Aug., Sept., Oct., Nov. and Dec. issues by Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream IL 60188-2403 USA. Copyright 2016. Free subscriptions to Global Cosmetic Industry are available to qualified individuals. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Replacement issues are available only through single copy sales. Single copies: $20; GCI Directory Issue: $35 (Add $10 per order shipped to Canada; add $15 per order to all other countries.) Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream IL 60188 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Global Cosmetic Industry, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009. Change of address: Give both the new and old addresses. Allow two months for a change to become effective.

Members of the American Business Media. All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Global Cosmetic Industry, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 USA.

@GCI_Magazine

facebook.com/gcimagazine

Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documents referred to within or affiliated with this publication. www.GCImagazine.com

2 Contents Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016

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SPARK

n BY JEB GLEASON-ALLURED

Innovation is Beautiful

A JEB GLEASON-ALLURED Editor in Chief jallured@allured.com @GCI_Magazine

GCI MAGAZINE EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD ALISA MARIE BEYER

Coastal Salt & Soul

MARIE ALICE DIBON

Alice Communications, Inc.

ADA POLLA

Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group

ART RICH, Ph.D.

A. Rich Development

RICK RUFFOLO

R4 Innovations

CRISTINA SAMUELS

Mode Cosmetics

LAURA SETZFAND Epiphany

s Steve Jobs said, “Innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower.”

By 2018, the global beauty industry will be valued at $461 billion, according to forecasts from Research and Markets*. Growth will be driven by evolving demographics, new products, formats and formulations, dynamic distribution channels and technologies, and, of course, innovative thinking—all focused on one thing: the global beauty consumer.

Every year, these consumers are confronted by thousands upon thousands of new beauty care products, so brand success is always far from assured. That’s why savvy product developers and brand marketers spend so much time seeking the most critical resource of all: knowledge.

Our singular mission at Global Cosmetic Industry is to deliver critical data and insights to support the innovations that drive successful beauty and personal care brands—disruptive startups, massive multinat­ionals and everyone in-between—as well as the retailers, suppliers and service providers shaping the industry.

As they say, knowledge is power. And innovation is beautitful.

It has been my pleasure to cover this amazing industry for the last 18 months. As we ramp up to 2017, Global Cosmetic Industry will unveil new initiatives, in addition to our new logo, which evokes the legacy of the brand, while reconfirming our commitment to the world of beauty.

We return next month with our annual supplier directory, while our daily newsletter will keep you up on the latest news, trends, and consumer and market insights.** I wish you a happy and healthy holiday season; see you in the new year.

*www.researchandmarkets.com **www.gcimagazine.com/newsletter

Follow us on Twitter @GCI_Magazine

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER Sign up to receive daily news, insights and trends

www.GCImagazine.com/newsletter

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INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS 5 Ways Skin Care Brands Can Differentiate focused on snail mucin as a key ingredient, as in the case of Tony Moly Intense Care Snail Hydro Gel Mask.

However, while consumers love the effects snail mucus extracts can have on the skin, they may not love the idea of the ingredient’s source. As a result, K-beauty brand Orjena has swapped out snail material for a phyto mucin drawn from yams. The alternative reportedly has an improved performance in regeneration and moisturi­­zation, while imparting clean, elastic-feeling skin.

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Orjena swapped out snail material for a yam-based phyto mucin.

3. Bee Venom Effective novel ingredients can capture consumer excitement, according to a recent Mintel reporta, offering new opportunities for brands. According to analyst Margie Nanninga, 60% of 2014 skin care sales in the United States fell in the facial category.

With so much product saturation in the space, the need for unique differen­tiators is particularly critical. Among the innovation opportun­ities Nanninga highlighted were:

1. Cannabis Cannabis skin care and anti-aging solutions have been the subjects of previous brand deals. Recently, Skinvisible Pharmace­­uticals, Inc., licensed the exclusive world rights to its topical and transdermal cannabis products formulated with Invisicare to CannaSkin, LLC, a cannabis product licensing company.

2. Snails ... or Yams Nanninga noted that consumers, inspired by the K-beauty craze, have turned to Asian skin care trends. Some brands have www.mintel.com

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Bee venom has also become a unique point of difference, according to the analysis. For instance, Venofye’s Apitoxin Collagen Night Recovery, which contains the venom, helps skin feel smooth, soft and refreshed, and plumps the skin.

4. African Ingredients Marula oil and other African-inspired ingredients offer brands a different type of innovation opportunity for skin care, the analysis explained. For instance, Oil Infinite Nourishing Oil by Nexxus helps smooth and nourish hair while increasing manageability without a greasy residue. A similar effect could be enticing in the skin care space.

5. Food Inspirations The overlap of the kitchen and the beauty shelf has continued, with brands drawing from coconut and almond oil, cucumber and more: for example, Yes To Coconut Body Wash and Yes To Cucumbers Cooling Hydrating Mist.

Marula oil and other African-inspired ingredients offer brands a different type of innovation opportunity for skin care.

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Skin Lighteners Get Multifunctional Despite that opinions on skin lightening vary, the global skin lighteners market is forecast to grow at a CAGR of 9.29% through 2020, according to a new analysis from Research and Marketsb.

The key innovation areas in the segment include multibenefit skin care products, according to the report. The analysis highlights Dermalogica, acquired by Unilever in 2015, which offers skin luminosity restoration and improved skin tone, as well as reduction of the appearance of brown spots or uneven skin tone.

Céleteque DermoScience Brightening Multi-benefit BB Cream has skin brightening effects, while Biowhite reduces the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots and offers SPF15 protection.

The report notes that consumers are seeking out more natural products, providing an advantage to brands such as Philosophy, which launched Brighten My Day All-Over Skin Perfecting Brightening Essence cream in 2014. www.researchandmarkets.com

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INSIGHTS & BREAKTHROUGHS

Wellness and Beauty Converge The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) has estimated the value of the worldwide wellness market at greater than $3.4 trillion, of which beauty and anti-aging offerings account for $1.026 trillion.c So it’s no wonder that, increasingly, beauty companies are pursuing a convergence of their traditional businesses with wellness.

According to Avon, wellness comprises 33.5% of total direct channel sales, growing at 16.3% in 2015. Now comes news that the company, which is in the midst of a makeover, has created a new role, president of health and wellness, and appointed Anjana Srivastava to it. Launching in 2017, the new initiative will focus on strategic partnerships, new product launches and innovation for the marketplace.

“An increasing number of consumers are seeking ways to improve their health and vitality as they are becoming aware of worsening obesity trends and incidence of chronic diseases,” Srivastava noted upon her appointment.

Indeed, as seen with the wider trend toward “clean” and “natural” brands (see: Products with Purpose), wellness is shaking up business models throughout the industry.

A recent Euromonitord analysis noted that, while on-demand beauty services such as GlamSquad have been cropping up in recent years, they haven’t exactly disrupted the industry.

Why? Primarily because consumers are still focused on quality c

www.globalwellnessinstitute.org www.euromonitor.com

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and pricing. While many apps offer services such as blowouts or makeup for roughly the same cost as traditional services, they do have an advantage in terms of convenience. However, Euromonitor pointed out that the quality of the results trumps everything, including price, in this space.

This quality concern has kept on-demand beauty apps in a relatively small niche, but innovative players such as Priv could change that. The analysis found that Priv has a distinct marketplace advantage by offering a holistic approach to beauty and wellness, offering services such as massages, manicures, makeup and even yoga sessions.

Given the rising popularity of beauty-wellness intersections and the $3.4 trillion market opportunity, innovators such as Priv may be poised for success.

Products with Purpose: Capturing the Conscientious Consumer About 55% of women check the ingredient labels on their beauty products, according to new research from Kari Grane. And 35% percent of women surveyed plan to purchase more “all-natural” beauty products in the next two years than they currently do, though that percentage skyrocketed among millennials to 48%. In fact, 73% of millennials believe it’s important to choose natural beauty products.

The Kari Gran data underscores a shift in consumer sentiment toward brands they feel they can trust and which do good in the world, which has been borne out in a number of recent beauty care acquisitions.

A recent analysis of M&A trends for the first nine months of 2016 from Mergermarketf found that consumers’ focus on healthy, organic, high-quality products has led recent acquisitions.

The report also found that consumers are seeking local and environm­entally sustainable products, a trend that spans all consumer product categories.

Recently, Puig established a minority stake in natural Brazilian soap, cosmetics and perfumery company Granado, which owns the top Brazilian beauty and personal care brand, Phebo.

Meanwhile, as rumors swirled that Unilever was in talks to purchase Honest Beauty, the multinational giant acquired www.karigran.com www.mergermarket.com

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natural cleaning and personal care product manufacturer Seventh Generation, which posted 2015 turnover of more than $200 million.

“Seventh Generation has long been a disruptor in the U.S. marketplace, leading the industry in sustainable innovation while attracting new generations of conscious consumers,” said Nitin Paranjpe, president of Unilever’s home care business. “This addition to Unilever’s product portfolio will help us meet rising demand for high-quality products with a purpose.”

Retailers have been upping their game, too. Credo Beauty, which is poised to expand to Brooklyn with its third store in 2017, has launched its Clean Beauty Discovery Kit, comprising seven travel-size products, including: De Mamiel Cleansing Balm, Pai Day Cream, Skin Owl Eye Plus, Evolh Shampoo & Conditioner, Lovefresh Deodorant and Tata Resurfacing Mask. The kit provides $95 of product for $59, according to Credo, creating an easy way to onboard consumers to clean beauty.

At the same time, Brooklyn-based Lovr has introduced an online marketplace for independent natural, organic, clean, ethical and vegan beauty brands. The curated marketplaces seeks “[t]o empower those seeking a healthy, clean, and beautiful life.”

Founded by Jessica Pritchett, the site adds new products each week and currently offers 300 products from 39 vendors.

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CONSUMER GOODS

LEND GLAMOUR T O D A I LY L I F E

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BEAUTY BUZZ Social Media is Reshaping Beauty Product Development It began with a hashtag, #SelenaQuintanillaForMAC, and a Change.org petition by a fan, Patty Rodriguez of California, titled “To release a ‘Selena Quintanilla for MAC’ limited-edition collection,” which eventually garnered nearly 38,000 signatures and led to the launch of M·A·C’s Selena collection, honoring the late singer.

Laura Elkins, senior vice president of global and North America marketing at M·A·C Cosmetics, noted that the brand’s strong Latina fan base was eager for a collection that specifically represented its community.

The Selena collection was codeveloped by Selena’s sister and was inspired by the contents of the late singer’s makeup bag. The launch of the collection took place in Selena’s home town of Corpus Christi, Texas, featuring 15,000 consumers and a range of non-paid influencers who generated massive amounts of free earned media From left: Moderator Jenny Fine (WWD) and speakers Conor Begley (Tribe Dynamics), online and in social channels. This is why social matters.

Laura Elkins (M·A·C) and Karen Moon (Trendalytics); courtesy JF Productions.

The first place that a consumer interacts with a brand is through social media, Elkins noted. As a result, protecting category’s accessible luxury status, wide variety, novel ingredients brand voice is more important and harder than ever. Elkins (i.e., snail and egg) and Instagrammability.

Similarly, color correctors share many of the same attributes spoke as part of Cosmetic Executive Women’s (www.cew.org) that make masks so exciting, including their Instagram-friendly recent New York event, Turning Social Media into Sales, which format. The segment has grown 20-fold year-over-year in terms focused far beyond simple consumer conversion, and eventually of social buzz, Moon explained. At the same time, the frequency expanded to a broader view of how the industry is changing. and number of color corrector searches online are rising. As a result, brands can and perhaps should emphasize those corrective properties in their products to capture consumer interest.

Moon highlighted other opportunities revealed by social buzz and search statistics, including magnetic lashes, lash extensions, lash applicators and lash decorations, which could potentially turn the category into the next nail art phenomenon. But will it be?

Supporting innovation and new product development comes down to pure business planning.

How Trends Work Eighty-two percent of women feel that social media has impacted the definition of beauty, said Karen Moon, cofounder and CEO of Trendalytics. She added that today’s beauty ideal is authentic—not flawless—and that today’s product searches are solution-centric, not branded, meaning consumers are more likely to look up “acne treatment” rather than, say, “Proactiv.”

Moon’s firm monitors product-specific searches on platforms such as Google, as well as influencers and brands to discover what’s influencing the beauty market. What the company is finding, according to Moon, is a significant shift in the way trends emerge and fade.

For example, the face mask category, arguably one of the hottest beauty segments today (growing 39% in 2014, according to Mintel. com), grew in tandem with rising social buzz and product search frequency. Moon noted that there were of course early adopters of the products, but it was the emergence of celebrity influencers that made the category truly boom. Still, said Moon, mask penetration remains low, creating a strong opportunity, boosted by the

Trend Cycles Creating New Business Models The question lingering in the audience and among the panel members was: How can brands track, assess and leverage trends in an increasingly rapid cycle? Critically, Moon noted that while the general process of trend-buildup has remained steady, the rate at which these trends drop off has accelerated.

Elkins explained that, as a result, it is very difficult for brands to judge which trends have staying power. For instance, marketers are handling micro trends like a specific lipstick taking off in Korea, which are difficult to anticipate.

Conor Begley, co-founder and president of Tribe Dynamics, noted that brands such as ColourPop are incorporating a fastfashion model typified by clothiers such as H&M, which is remodeling the traditional product-development process. No longer do these innovators work with long lead times, nor are brands alone setting the trends. Instead, some fast-fashion-style businesses are able to respond to an emerging trend and launch a product in a matter of weeks, scaling up later as needed.

Begley added that this type of business model has become easier to do because digital has greatly lowered the cost of distribution. The result is rising consumer demand for newness and variety, resulting in more brands and segmentation in beauty.

Moon noted that early innovators in the beauty space are able to

10 Beauty Buzz Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016

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grow to sales in the tens of millions of dollars in a very short time as a direct consequence of these market forces.

While some brands let product go out of stock to feed demand, many others are working to find new ways to manage inventory, said Elkins. At M·A·C, dedicated teams receive and asses trend alerts to keep track of how big an emerging segment might become, as well as what it means for the supply chain and various markets. In the end, Elkins explained, supporting innovation and new product development comes down to pure business planning.

Complex Path to Purchase Moon noted that brand executives are looking for more value out of social media. They want to know how customers are interacting with their brands. Begley added that it is difficult to connect a specific online video view directly to a consumer’s initial purchase. In fact, that purchase might not even occur online, since many shoppers still primarily use online for replenishment.

Elkins added that M·A·C, like many brands, uses retargeted ads, Facebook and other “unsexy” tools to maintain the marketing continuity in the digital space. This actually drives a lot of sales, she said, even if it’s Instagram and Snapchat often get all the attention.

Moon pointed to a recent Google study of consumer touchpoints on the path to purchase. The analysis*, which is worth a read, explains that the importance of any one resource depends on the market, size of company and region, among other factors.

In general, however, Google found that the interactions in order of farthest to closest to final purchase are: social display, generic paid search, organic search, referral, brand paid search and email.

M·A·C’s Selena collection began with a hashtag, #SelenaQuintanillaForMAC.

Social Never Rests

Rapid Growth

Last year, writing for Global Cosmetic Industry, Martyn Tipping of Brand Chorus wrote, “Instagram is the place to be to catch the attention of online women ages 18–29, 53% of whom are regular users. This explains why Instagram is the dominant platform for both M·A·C and Too-Faced.”

What a difference a year makes. Elkins noted that M·A·C launched its Snapchat presence last year, just one part of a wider array of channels the marketer engages in, including WeChat, Facebook and, of course, Instagram. Begley explained that Snapchat is critical because it is beginning to absorb much of the content creation young consumers used to engage in on Instagram.

Snapchat currently has 150 million active daily users, 60% of which contribute content. Currently, the platform is yielding about 10 billion daily video views. According to Mediakix.com, 60% of U.S. smartphone users between the ages of 13 and 34 are using the platform—the sweet spot for beauty marketers seeking out those ever-so-important millennials.

The Fragmented Future

Preserving the Brand Voice Elkins explained that her marketing teams continually work to balance brand, consumer and influencer voices in the social space. This becomes exponentially more complicated as M·A·C is *www.thinkwithgoogle.com/tools/customer-journey-to-online-purchase.html#!/ the-us/arts-and-entertainment/large/generic-paid-search www.GCImagazine.com

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sold in more than 100 countries. The brand, which does all of its own creative in-house, once populated its social feeds solely with M·A·C-created content. Today, like most marketers, its social presence is a mix of brand, influencer and consumer content.

M·A·C’s approach is something of a hybrid, deputizing internal and industry makeup artists, as well as beauty bloggers, emerging fashion powers and even musicians to produce content. Currently, the brand boasts 20,000 internal influencers from counter level on up who produce content for social feeds, typically on a theme such as Halloween or around a specific event. These internal influencers post content to their own channels, which are reposted by M·A·C. The effort has yielded more than 3.4 billion impressions from M·A·C’s latest “artist challenge,” creating both social buzz and giving artists a moment in the spotlight. Senior makeup artists, some of which have hundreds of thousands of followers on platforms like Instagram, have created video content for M·A·C.

M·A·C is devoting more and more resources to social media, said Elkins, in part because the brand has twice the number of Instagram followers that it had one year ago. More importantly, its Instagram engagement rate is outpacing that of follower growth, translating into millions of dollars of earned media value for the brand. To achieve these results, Elkins noted that M·A·C needed to be nimble and open to change.

Brands are media companies, said Moon. As a result, just as brands and product segments are proliferating, so too are digital and social media outlets, including augmented reality (AR).

While YouTube continues to grow—in part because it offers a revenue share with influencers—most platforms are increasingly moving toward a paid-boost model by changing their algorithms.

Social outlets are also launching new features, such as Snapchat competitor Instagram stories.

At the same time, marketers are faster to adopt emerging platforms and finding success on their own vertical media properties—especially AR. Elkins explained that influencers are now often paid and can sometimes be viewed as less authentic by followers—they also rarely work exclusively.

Whatever the next few years bring in terms of technological breakthroughs and unique media platforms, a faster, more fragmented beauty landscape is all but assured.

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BRANDS & BENCHMARKS Intelligent Skin Sense has introduced its mobile format Saturation antioxidant mist, which counteracts the effects of pollution and keeps skin supple, refreshed and moist. The product, which retails for $34, offers free radical protection via antioxidants including mandarin orange, bergamot fruit oil, grapefruit oil and lemon oil, and pollution defense from arnica and cucumber extract, as well as soybean protein. skinbetter science has debuted The Smoothing Experience and The Regenerating Experience anti-aging platforms nationwide. The brand’s transdermal delivery system reportedly “transports topical skin care actives faster and deeper to where they are most effective.”

Amway has expanded its luxury skin care offerings with Artistry Supreme LX, a collection that includes the Artistry Supreme L Regenerating Cream and Artistry Supreme LX Regenerating Eye Cream, which reportedly “resynch­ronize and energize skin.”

The resynchr­onization effect is the result of two key ingredients, according to Amway: Gardenia grandiflora stem cell extracts and the CellEffect24 Complex, which is enriched with 24-karat gold, Cardiolipin and L-Carnosine. The products also comprise green acerola cherry extract, Nutrilite spinach leaf extract and rhodiola complex.

Youth Corridor’s Ultimate Antioxidant C Boost Serum contains vitamin C, melatonin, vitamin B3 and ectoin and purportedly aids in the reversal of sun damage, while visually firming skin, brightening the appearance and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Author Robin McGraw, founder and CEO of Robin McGraw Revelation, and board-certified dermatol­ogist, Dr. Jessica Wu, have collaborated to launch a luxury skin care range under the Robin McGraw Revelation brand.

The line comprises 14 products that will retail for as little as $22 and will be packaged with a motivational quote from McGraw hidden under the lid. Products include: OMG! is this really ME? Instant Face Shaper; vita-boost Vitamin Infusion Serum; you look amazing! Revitalizing Serum; welcome back YOUth Retinol Serum; up, up & away Firming Neck and Décolleté Cream; and let there be bright! Triple Action Brightening Serum.

Biossance has introduced The Illuminator, a dual-peptide, weightless eye gel. The non-toxic formulation contains a Swiss apple cell extract, is appropriate for the eye area and reportedly reduces the appearance of dark circles and puffiness.

Singapore-based Active Derm has announced the launch of a line of skin care and hair loss prevention products that will be sold directly to consumers.

The product range includes acne serums that aim to relieve mild to moderate acne, age spot creams that also protect against UV-damage, and a hair growth treatment developed for both men and women. All products are made with active ingredients from France, Korea and the United States.

JINSoon’s Holiday Pearl Collection, inspired by classic Mikimoto pearls, retails for $42 and includes: Baroque (gold pearl), Nocturne (black pearl) and Akoya (white pearl).

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Pantone’s Fashion Color Report Spring 2017 edition contains insights derived from upcoming fashion designer collections.

The resulting 10 colors will set the tone for the spring season, which are distinctly different from Pantone’s colors of the year for 2016, Serenity and Rose Quartz.

“One of the things that we saw this year, was a renewed sense of imagination in which color was appearing in context that was different than the traditional,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Reminiscent of the hues that surround us in nature, our Spring 2017 Fashion Color Report evokes a spectrum of emotion and feeling.”

She added, “From the warmth of sunny days with Pantone 13-0755 Primrose Yellow to the invigorating feeling of breathing fresh mountain air with Pantone 18-0107 Kale and the desire to escape to pristine waters with Pantone 14-4620 Island Paradise, designers applied color in playful, yet thoughtful and precise combinations to fully capture the promises, hope and transfor­mation that we yearn for each Spring.”

Victoria Beckham’s collection is broken down by city-inspired ranges that offer beauty looks that can be smudged and, in the words of Beckahm, “imperfect.” The London collection includes Eye Foil and Eye Ink (in Blond Gold), the New York Collection comprises Lip Gloss, Eye Palette and Lip Pencil, L.A. includes a Bronzer and Eye Kajal, and Paris comprises Lipstick and Eye Metals Eye Shadow (Charred Emerald).

Shiseido has introduced its new functional and compact line of skin care and cosmetics, Playlist. www.GCImagazine.com

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BEAUTY INNOVATORS

5 INDIE TRENDSETTERS Highlights from the Indie Beauty Expo reveal the latest innovations among entrepreneurial brands.

| BY ADA POLLA, Alchimie Forever

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∑ Niche and prestige beauty is leading beauty growth, making it an excellent time for independent (indie) brands. ∑ Many of these startup innovators create products and brands based on a personal story, often involving multiple family members. ∑ Indie brands don’t fit any single mold, but many are natural, organic and even vegan.

hy does indie beauty matter?

The global beauty industry is expected to produce revenues of $461 billion by 2018, up from $379 billion in 2013, according to a report from Research and Markets*. In particular, growth is being driven by niche and prestige brands.

“Consumers have a heightened interest in a personalized approach to beauty and in their choice of beauty products,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group**, in a 2015 market analysis.

“This is opening the door to brands that have a specific, fine-tuned beauty focus … rather than more generalized expertise in a broader category, like makeup or skin care. Looking across the total measured market for prestige beauty reveals just how dynamic this trend has become, and how brands that previously would not have been considered as major www.researchandmarkets.com www.npdgroup.com

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players are carving out their space in the minds and wallets of beauty consumers.”

NPD found that prestige makeup growth outpaced that of prestige skin care and fragrance last year, especially online.

Grant concluded, “In large part, the rise and success of the more niche, boutique style brands can be attributed to the online environment, which has given these brands a louder voice and broader reach. While brick and mortar is still the major channel for prestige beauty product sales, online and other total measured market channels such as mid-tier are providing new and smaller brands a platform to tell their unique stories and engage with a meaningful base of consumers. This is creating entirely new opportunities, a new view of the competition and is altering the dynamics within the industry.”

Recently, contributor Ada Polla visited the second-annual Indie Beauty Expo in New York to seek out the latest round of innovators shaping this exciting beauty segment. —Editor Global Cosmetic Industry

14 Beauty Innovators Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.

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he Indie Beauty Expo (iBE) returned to New York City in August. The two-day event, held at the Metropolitan Pavilion, showcased more than 130 indie beauty brands from across the globe, including Pacifica, Shen Beauty, Florapy, Edible Beauty, Raw Spirit Fragrances, Au Naturale Cosmetics, Pai Skincare and Pour le Monde Parfums.

Day one, also known as Shop Indie, sold out and consisted of more than 900 consumer attendees. Brands got to expose consumers to their products—and sell. Day two was open to trade professionals and presented brands the opportunity to build relationships with buyers and retailers.

In addition, there were speakers and panelist, bringing guests exciting presentations from the founder of Clarisonic, actress Kimberly Elise, Nadine Abramcyk of TenOverTen, Blair Lawson of Goop and Annie Atkinson of She’s in the Glow. I also ran into friends from the industry while walking the floor, including Pilar of Studio Organics, Dr. Robb Akridge of Clarisonic (who spoke on a panel sharing his experience about launching a brand from a Denny’s breakfast table and its eventual sale to L’Oréal), the team from Cosmetic Executive Women, and more. iBE is bringing the show to other cities, including Los Angeles and a number of locations in the Southern United States.

I attended the show for the first time on day two and had a number of meaningful encounters and conversations—below is a review of my favorites.

1. Skinvolve My eyes were first drawn to Skinvolve because their banner highlighted three sisters in business. Being in business with my own three sisters, how could I not go learn more? I met brand cofounders Christine Saleh and Lena Saleh, who told me that their oldest sister is the inspiration behind their brand. She had two babies and was struggling post-pregnancy to get back to her pre-baby shape. www.GCImagazine.com

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Skinvolve consists of seven firming and tightening products; all are natural and some are organic.

Photo courtesy of iBE.

So the sisters launched their brand, which consists of seven firming and tightening products, some of which are natural and others organic. Their products are made in Miami, are vegan and crueltyfree, and feature primarily caffeinated ingredients to help firm and tighten the skin. I have fallen in love with their Body Karate Cream.

2. Pottymints Perhaps the most surprising brand I came across was Pottymints. The name made me do a double-take and wonder if my interpretation (mints for the toilet) was correct. It was. I met Matthew, who works with his sister on this family-owned brand (yes, another sibling concept).

They’d created dissolvable air freshener tablets for the toilet, which work on contact with water and keep working after flushing. The brand is 18 months old and launched at Cosmoprof North America in

2015, where it won the Trendsetter award.

Certainly, an original concept.

3. SwissPerfection Just like I can’t help stopping at a booth highlighting three sisters, I can’t help but stop at a booth with a sign saying “Swiss.” At the SwissPerfection stand, I met Sophie Trolliet, who was at iBE to launch the brand in the United States. The brand, which was created for the Asian market, is well-known in Korea and Japan.

However, 40% of its online sales come from American consumers, hence the expansion into the U.S. market.

Trolliet told me about the family story of this brand, which was created by the head of Clinique La Prairie in Montreux, Switzerland, Gregor Mattli, whose father, Armin Mattli, purchased the company in the 1970s. The company launched a clinic, and later a brand, featuring animal cellular extracts. Mattli’s son is a vegan, however, Beauty Innovators 15

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BEAUTY INNOVATORS

The Indie Beauty Expo returned to New York City in August, showcasing more than 130 indie beauty brands from across the globe. Photo courtesy of iBE.

and so the executive realized the power of vegan products. As a result, Mattli has evolved the brand’s ingredient strategy to focus exclusively on plants, specifically Iris germanica. The company now has 50 SKUs, mostly for the face.

4. Erin’s Faces I then ran into an industry friend I have not seen in years, Erin Williams, creator of Erin’s Faces. I met her in 2008 when she was working as a makeup artist and running her first business, a listserv for beauty brands and beauty freelancers.

Today, she has her own makeup brand, which started with a brush—the perfect makeup brush she always wanted, but never wanted to pay $60 for. Foundations followed, for all skin tones: Erin’s Faces has always been based on the concept of inclusivity. Her mineral liquid foundations are beautiful and feel like silk. Willians said she loved the show, mostly because she got to meet many of her 8,000-plus Instagram followers.

5. Arrojo A number of hair brands were also present, including Arrojo, the brainchild of celebrity stylist Nick Arrojo. His three salons in NYC are always packed, filled with beautiful clients and creative stylists, and his line, which comprises shampoos, conditioners, styling and finishing products, has been expanding beyond his salons’ walls. The brand’s cult product is the ReFRESH Dry Conditioner, which treats and detangles hair when wet or dry.

I left the event feeling energized by all of the entrepreneurs defining the niche beauty industry today.

Erin’s Faces started with a brush and expanded to foundations for all skin tones.

SwissPerfection was created for the Asian market, but 40% of its online sales come from American consumers.

ADA POLLA (ada@alchimie-forever. com) is the co-creator of the Swiss antioxidant skin care line, Alchimie Forever, which launched in the U.S. in 2004. Her strategic focus and implementation have yielded double-digit annual revenue growth for the company. Polla holds an MBA from Georgetown University, majored in art history and political science at Harvard University, and graduated magna cum laude with a Bachelor of Arts degree in 1999. She is also a Global Cosmetic Industry editorial advisor.

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16 Beauty Innovators Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016

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BRAND STRATEGIES

SHOW, DON’T TELL Unlocking brand value with amazing imagery and visual cues. | BY SHERI L. KOETTING, MSLK ∑ With consumers increasingly ignoring text and many brands deploying the same claims, visual cues can make the difference between success and failure. ∑ Having a communicative name, deploying icons, leveraging lifestylerelated images, and carefully using third-party endorsements and spokespeople can lead to brand success. ∑ Whatever strategies you choose, be sure the visual elements truly tell your unique brand story.

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f a picture is worth a thousand words, consider the power imagery holds for a brand. Smart brand managers know that the right imagery can connect with distracted consumers better than words alone. Since today’s consumer makes purchasing decisions within mere seconds, visualizing your brand or product’s promise is essential.

Text Fatigue Less is more when it comes to text—and words are often entirely overlooked by customers. The role of a brand’s graphics should be to “show” rather than “tell.”

Beauty brands need to communicate the efficacy of their formulations and build trust with consumers. With so facebook.com/gcimagazine

many products touting “I’m the best” at retail, it’s impossible to differentiate one from another using words alone.

Images can convey complex information, create emotional connections, and help differentiate you from the competition.

Know Your Story As all brands are unique, the challenge lies in choosing the best story to showcase.

Some brands are scientifically driven, while others are emotionally driven. Some brands convey an aspirational lifestyle, while others tout ancient beauty secrets from ingredients passed down over the ages.

One brand may be rooted in performance and have clinically-backed results, while another might be based Global Cosmetic Industry

18 Brand Strategies Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2016 Allured Business Media.

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on the founder’s health journey via the purity of ingredients. Depending on your brand’s unique positioning, you will need to effectively visualize these critical brand stories in novel and compelling ways.

What a Brand Name Says Naming can be fundamental to a brand’s positioning. If a professional has backed your brand and developed or guided your formulations, you have an advantage. A clear presentation of names such as SkinMedica, GoldfadenMD and Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare helps convey a clinical approach before a consumer knows anything else about the brand.

Brands with an “MD” in their name often use clinical styling to highlight their pedigree. This helps emphasize their medical approach, providing a good start in visualizing their brand promise.

In addition to a clinical-sounding name, the use of the caduceus (twin snakes on a winged cross) or pharmaceutical cross, and colors such as silver, white and blue help create a “pro-level” feel.

Scientific Data Using science to back your promised results helps build trust. Statistical results from a large sample group can be very compelling. However, unambiguous results are essential. Statistics that do not demonstrate result of 80% or higher probably aren’t worth promoting. When results are significant, the challenge still remains how to best convey this information.

Large bold numbers—alone, or in combination with arrows—help consumers visualize results. One brand, Belif, has merged its data and product content into a compelling bar graph. The simple design places statistics as the main

One brand, Belif, has merged its data and product content into a compelling bar graph. www.GCImagazine.com

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imagery on the front of all their packaging.

Such data often encourages consumers to pick up a product from the shelf.

Beware Befores/Afters We live in an age in which scientific photography can be effective. Skin imaging and specialty cameras such as the VISIA Complexion Analysis can accurately capture subtle changes in skin treatments, making them feel quite dramatic.

While before and after images can be effective, they rarely should be used as the main imagery. Such images also produce powerful negative reactions, and some consumers may only remember the befores, not the intended afters. This imagery is often best for the sides of a package or in-store displays.

Getting Iconic Similarly, if your product has proprietary or patented scientific formulations, diagrams and infographics can help to showcase complex processes or systems, where words would be too cumbersome.

Often an icon, or a visual image of how the science is happening within the hair, skin or at the molecular level is enough to make your point clear. Consumers only need a simple explanation. Anything more risks being seen as “too complicated,” potentially costing you the sale.

Icons help convey details about a wide range of topics such as ingredients, regimen steps and product concentration.

Well-executed icons can become powerful replacements for words, and are particularly useful for international brands. The very presence of icons can help convey that there is a technical precision to the product.

Lifestyle Cues Science may be irrefutable, but it rarely connects emotionally. Consumers want products that fit into their lifestyle.

Visual packaging cues that convey a product is premium, natural, gender specific, etc., make a big difference in the consumer’s decision.

Some brands scream luxury, while others may whisper it. There is a long tradition of visual cues that imply decadence: gold, silver, deep jewel tones, all-capital serif typography, crests and seals. Today’s modern approach toward Brand Strategies 19

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BRAND STRATEGIES

Humanizing Brands

Natural brands have traditionally represented their ingredients visually, using photography or illustration.

luxury embraces principles of minimalism: rich blacks, sans serif typography—still featuring all caps, fewer words, and toneon-tone production techniques leveraging gloss and matte coatings.

Natural brands have traditionally represented their ingredients visually, using photography or illustration. Brand color and packaging graphics tend to be nature-inspired, using shades of browns and greens. “Natural” used to imply an austere sensibility, free from superfluous decoration.

However, many brands have cleaned up their formulations to eliminate toxic

ingredients and elevated their branding to appeal to conscientious luxury consumers.

As a result, showcasing “natural” has become more complex. It is not unusual to see glimpses of fluorescent colors, metallic foils, and even the occasional hint of wit and humor.

Men’s brands (or men’s lines) typically use darker colors, deep grays and silvers.

Simple, bold statements and large statistics always connect well with traditional male audiences. Natural materials such as woods, leathers and metals also help create a masculine aesthetic.

Whether a brand was born in a stateof-the-art lab or a country kitchen, people relate best to the human story.

Typically, the founder’s story is one that consumers look for—though this is not the only way to go.

Sometimes, a founder’s story may not be unique in the category. Heritage brands may have been bought and sold many times, and the founder is no longer involved with the brand—or even living.

Luckily, there are other ways brands can humanize themselves. A doctor’s endorsement is a great way to build trust, and a huge advantage. A certified professional who can attest to your product’s effectiveness widens the gap between you and your competition.

A famous face can be a welcome presence to some, but not others. Not every brand can afford an A-list celebrity to be the face of their brand, nor should it be seen as necessary.

Besides, the high cost of securing such endorsements may not translate into a profitable investment. Savvy consumers can detect insincere endorsements. In fact, relatable people abound, and many lesserknown athletes and real-world users can often embody the lifestyle image of your brand in more meaningful ways than an actor or model.

Brands can often find relatable stories from within their own customer base.

These are the true believers who would be thrilled to be ambassadors for the brands they love so much. After all, wouldn’t you want an enthusiastic true believer to speak for your brand rather than someone you’re simply paying to pretend?

Regardless of who they are, your spokesperson should have a significant following of their own on social media.

Through your spokesperson’s fan base, you inherit the benefits of their social proof, helping to increase your own.

Ingredient Imagery Photography, illustrations, icons and diagrams can all be effective tools in showcasing key ingredients and the properties they possess. An ingredient beautifully rendered on the face of a package can be compelling and far more effective than words alone. In stores, such packages also “pop” from a distance.

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With so many products touting “I’m the best” at retail, it’s impossible to differentiate one from another using words alone.

Typically, the founder’s story is one that consumers look for—though this is not the only way to go. In the case of IT Cosmetics, cofounder Jamie Kern Lima (pictured) has served as the high-profile personality of the brand, which led to success on QVC. In fact, IT Cosmetics won 12 QVC Customer Choice Beauty Awards for 2016, giving the brand a total of 33 such awards since 2010.

While key ingredient imagery has long been the domain of natural brands, this is an approach all brands should at least consider. Often, consumers are shopping a product category by ingredient because of its benefits.

Take bath products as an example.

Lavender may signal a sense of calming, and peppermint a sense of invigoration.

Hot ingredients such as açai berry, baobab oil and omega-3 are all great to showcase directly, allowing people searching for those ingredients to easily find your product.

many endorsements may seem to carry an implicit sense of good connotations, careful attention should be paid to your alliances.

You’ll be known be the company you keep—for better or for worse.

Natural brands may choose to seek endorsements such as USDA Certified Organic, NSF Organic, Fair Trade Certified and Cradle-to-Cradle. However, you needn’t be 100% natural to tout that you may be cruelty-free or certified vegan, fair trade certified or even women-owned.

Placement of these icons is important.

We recommend that brands strike the right balance, proudly displaying these endorsements, while making sure not to lose their own brand equity in the process. The brand Shea Moisture has a wide variety of endorsements. They have dedicated a place on all their packaging to showcase these icons. They proudly reinforce their promise every time a consumer holds the product in their hand.

The Best Approach For You Every brand has a story to tell. Within seconds, your packaging must visualize your brand promise and create an emotional connection. Whether you leverage your brand’s name, results, lifestyle, spokesperson, ingredients or certification—all work toward building trust and credibility. The right imagery makes this possible.

The Company You Keep Third-party endorsements pack a wealth of implied information into a tiny symbol, and can create an enormous amount of trust. They can be easily scanned by consumers’ busy eyes.

The power of an endorsed badge, icon or logo can make the difference in a consumer purchasing one product over another. While www.GCImagazine.com

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SHERI L KOETTING (sheri@mslk.com) is the co-founder and chief strategist of MSLK, a branding agency based in New York. MSLK specializes in helping beauty brands find their voice in today’s crowded marketplace through 360° brand positioning—from overall brand strategy to brand identity, packaging, retail experience, websites and social media campaigns.

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BEAUTY CHANNELS

| BY JEFFREY TEN

New omnichannel models for brands and retailers are delivering unique messaging and personal shopping experiences to customers of every category.

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his past September, when Mary Dillon, CEO of Ulta, spoke at a CEW event in New Yorka, she could not have been more eloquent in her description of what builds the cosmetics business today: that brands and retailers cannot garner much-needed awareness or engagement without one key ingredient—people.

Today, the people can have as much or more power to make a brand than a multimillion-dollar ad campaign. Consumers have the capacity to communicate what they like to the world and, within seconds, have that message spread globally.

In this environment, small brands can become big brands simply because of the time spent giving personal attention and specialization to market segments via digital marketing. As a result, the power of marketing now rests both with consumers and brands, which means stores are no longer the sole gatekeepers of customer engagement.

In the past, the prestige segment was the only category known for developing unique messaging and personal shopping See “Meet Ulta’s Beauty Enthusiasts,” page 28.

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experiences for customers. This has changed, in part because of approaches like Mary Dillon’s at Ulta—giving personal attention to customers from people who enjoy what they do, making for an enjoyable shopping experience. Sephora has also been successful by handpicking their cast members to offer a similarly pleasant shopping experience.

Yet, every enjoyable and productive brick and mortar shopping experience must be supplemented with the power of digital marketing, social media and, in some cases, direct sampling.

Omni Isn’t Easy I have discussed the evolution of the traditional brick and mortar business in this series of articlesb, but haven’t dealt with the strategy that is all the buzz today—omnichannel marketing.

Omnichannel marketing is a careful orchestration of digital marketing, social sharing and in-store experience that has to be carefully integrated. It may seem simple to execute, but it is not.

“The Beauty Startup Guide to Retail Survival” (April 2016) and “The Case for Mass Vs. Class” (September 2016); www.gcimagazine.com/magazine/ pastissues/2016/

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It used to be a cost-effective model, but omnichannel is becoming as costly as traditional marketing, and may even become more expensive because of the many available options.

Furthermore, the omnichannel is not limited to retail as the endpoint for the consumer purchase. There are also successful strategies with direct sales through home shopping and multilevel marketing, as well as direct-response TV. And let’s not forget the beauty box customer touchpoints, including those of IPSY, Birchbox and Glossybox.

The integrated delivery strategy of digital marketing and social sharing is the new consumer reality, but is more complicated than simply adding social media and/or e-commerce to brick and mortar, because the power of a brand is not the physical store but the people working there—peers.

Peer Influence Peer and influencer opportunities that can garner attention and credibility for a brand include grass roots activities such as consumer trade shows, and fashion week and vlogger/blogger events. The use of influencers is one of the single most important drivers of brand credibility, though they are no longer cheap, costing upwards of $20,000-$50,000 per month.

Anyone who doesn’t see a cause-effect relationship for social sharing are mistaken; it is one of the most effective tools for attracting the millennial consumer. In the retail segment, influencers have been successful in dispensing sought-after information on products and driving enormous volume in a matter of hours, if not minutes.

For example, when I was at NYX, Toni Ko created a white pencil that was intended to be an under-eye pencil. She bought about 10,000 units and thought it would last for several months. When the pencil was put on the NYX website, influencers immediately jumped on it and found other uses for it. As a result, the pencils sold out in days, not months, and this SKU became a hero product overnight for NYX.

they’re looking for. To succeed, retailers and brands need to integrate social media at the point of sale to address the 85% of millennial consumers who have done their homework before they arrive at the store.

Cutting-edge beauty chains such as Ulta and Sephora are heavily engaged in orchestrating the customer engagement from smart phone to store. Ulta is currently testing beacon technology, which sends out digital invitations customized to the consumer.

In 2015, Sephora began using beacons in stores nationwide to deliver timely, personalized alerts—including birthday greetings, loyalty program updates, training notifications and more—to consumers who opted-in.

This is not something that the brands can spend a lot of time on, unless the retailers ask them to participate in a promotion.

If you, as a brand leader or marketer, are invited to participate in a beacon program, I strongly recommend that you consider doing so, because this well-integrated system completes the customer experience.

Point of Sale Considerations Training at the point of sale is crucial because many specialty retailers—like Sephora and Ulta—utilize selling specialists.

Brands need to think of the point of sale as well.

For example, if you’re in the mass space, where many customers have been primed by digital marketing, how do you consummate sales? There, strong messaging that brings attention to your latest and greatest products, is critical.

Consumer Engagement Selecting social media platforms can be a moving target. Several years ago, it was all about Facebook, which today is irrelevant for millennials compared to the key platform of Instagram. And I doubt there is any CPG marketer who is not putting some funds into Snapchat, which has become the latest mecca for these consumers.

Social media selection and resource allocation is only one element of the strategy, however.

It alone will not give your customer the shopping experience www.GCImagazine.com

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When NYX launched a white pencil that was intended to be an under-eye product, the company bought about 10,000 units and thought it would last for several months. But when the pencil was put on the NYX website, influencers immediately jumped on it and found other uses—the pencils sold out in days, not months, making this SKU an overnight hero product for the brand.

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BEAUTY CHANNELS

The same goes for prestige, because there are not always dedicated beauty advisors available in specialty retail. Even department stores are rethinking the ROI on beauty advisers and fragrance specialists, as are the brands, which foot the bill for these expensive selling tools.

Shop at Home: A Brand-maker The home shopping channel is an interesting segment for beauty. Today, 100 million homes get the three major home shopping channels, with QVC being the largest and most productive in terms of sales per minute, followed by Evine and HSN. By my own estimation, I believe the beauty piece of home shopping is just slightly south of $1 billion at retail.

But how do the peers and influencers make this segment work?

Just ask brands that were literally languishing before they got on QVC. Bare Escentuals wasn’t getting any significant traction, selling under $100 million prior to QVC. When Leslie Blodgett went on the air in 1997 with no experience on TV, she created a new category called mineral makeup, which was known by only a small segment of consumers.c Blodgett got into the kitchens and dens of women watching QVC and became their best friend; the customer thanked her by buying her brand. QVC did not “make” Bare Escentuals, but the channel helped make it the top-selling brand in beauty for many years.

In 1998, Smashbox was on its last legs and close to bankruptcy; according to co-founder Dean Factor, the banks were close to locking the doors. Then QVC happened, and the brand had a new lease on life, eventually being acquired by Estee Lauder in 2010.

Both Smashbox and Bare Escentuals were floundering until QVC brought the magic, and both later sold for high prices due to the power and resonance of people and influencers. In 2010, this model was repeated when IT Cosmetics, then a two-yearold brand, was brought to life by QVC, raising the business up to sales of hundreds of millions virtually overnightd. Jamie Kern Lima, founder of IT Cosmetics, has spoken extensively about how she built this line out of her apartment with a strong problem-solution strategy, which has been so successful that L’Oréal decided to add the brand to its portfolio, paying $1.2 billion based on 2015 sales of $300 million.

In 1998, Smashbox was turned around by selling on QVC, leading to its acquisition by Estee Lauder; today, the brand is pursuing innovative marketing partnerships, such as with Modiface’s virtual reality app technology (pictured).

air because there are many hoops to jump through—proving financial promise, providing samples, communicating benefits and point of difference, etc.

This does not mean home shopping is an easy business once you get on-air. The secret to home shopping, as well as directresponse TV (DRTV), is a great story with a product that has demonstrable befores and afters. For these reasons, Proactiv has been the most valuable brand in home shopping, DRTV and direct vending machines.

As a brand grows and is given more home shopping airtime, the volume can increase dramatically. In addition, home shopping channels set a minimum hurdle of sales per minute. The sales hurdles vary among channels; QVC requires about $15,000 per minute in sales, while HSN requires $5,000, though most are in the $10,000-$12,000 range. If you come close to the minimum, a channel may continue to work with you, but will redo the messaging and, perhaps, put you on non-primetime spots.

The challenge is significant, but the payoff can be big—as many brands have shown—representing by far the most cost-effective sales execution and branding opportunity.

Complex Paths to Purchase QVC, HSN and Evine understand the need to broaden their reach beyond TV. All are actively developing campaigns on smart phones and reach-out events in the cosmetic and fashion industries to build more connections and find new ways to communicate and touch the customer at as many points as possible.

The reality is that, today, no one has the time to listen to a 15-minute show, much less a one-hour program. Most of the audience gets introduced to brands by watching just a portion of a show or segment. Later, the customers circle back online to make the purchase.

Online sales represent a small segment for the home shopping segment but, when a show is aired, it drives significant awareness and website traffic for the channel, brands and even other retailers carrying that brand. The latter phenomenon occurs because, many times, the customer may want to touch and feel the products, which isn’t yet possible through a screen. As a result, home shopping can bringing incremental revenue to a brand that is selling at retail. The size of the retail bump depends on how compelling the show is.

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What it Takes to Succeed in Home Shopping Is home shopping, in itself, a driver of brand awareness and sales? No. In fact, over the last several years the cosmetic business has been under pressure in this channel of distribution. Success requires innovation in the brand and, most importantly, a credible storyteller with a demonstrable point of difference.

The mechanics of home shopping are not easy. It can take six months or more (as occurred with IT Cosmetics) to get on c According to a 2012 profile of Blodgett, her first appearance on QVC sold out her entire $45,000 worth of inventory and ultimately sold at a rate of $1.4 million of products per hour; www.forbes.com/sites/85broads/2012/01/24/ taking-an-exit-but-not-saying-good-bye/ d Jamie Kern Lima, founder of IT Cosmetics, has noted that the brand’s first 10-minute spot took place following a two-year process of engaging QVC, proving there is no truly overnight success; www.entrepreneur.com/ article/237379.

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DRTV’s Rapid ROI DRTV, in which consumers respond directly to the brand by phone or online, continues to get a message across quicker than any retailer and can be tweaked many times until it successfully drives purchases. Guthy Renker reigns supreme in this channel, selling close to $1 billion dollars of Proactiv acne products annually in 10–20 countries.

However, this is a marketing option open to all brands, including startups. Unlike home shopping, which is a niche business dominated by three companies, the plethora of cable channels makes the cost to air DRTV spots extremely reasonable, while production of a long- or short-form show can be very affordable.

Like e-commerce, there is an immediate ROI that can be measured quickly. In fact, DRTV can be used effectively alongside e-commerce, driving consumers from a brief infomercial to a website for more information.

Continuity makes beauty an important asset to home shopping and profitable for e-commerce and DRTV. This is particularly true in the skin care category and, sometimes, in color cosmetics.

If a brand like Proactiv has continuity, the customer lifetime value proposition is financially attractive. In its early years, Proactiv’s reorder rate was five times. That meant that a one-time investment in DRTV airtime was repaid by a customer making five total purchases. Today, that reorder rate has dropped, but it remains an amazing vehicle for many cosmetic concepts—if they have a low cost of goods and, as I mentioned, demonstrable befores and afters.

E-commerce Levels the Playing Field E-commerce is the modern version of DRTV. It is even cheaper and can be more targeted but, unlike in its early years, the channel does not come cheap. Despite rising costs, there is no brand that I know of that does not have its own e-commerce site that is either operating on its own or via a third party.

Next to home shopping, e-commerce can be one of the most profitable channels of distribution. As I have discussed in the past, e-commerce and digital marketing are a must-have because,

Proactive has been the most valuable brand in home shopping, DRTV and direct vending machines. www.GCImagazine.com

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today, the rest of the channels cascade from these key marketing toolse. Whether you are a startup or in the process of gaining traction, e-commerce provides one of the best barometers of how your brand is doing and can be an effective tool for testing different marketing strategies. However, e-commerce is no longer cheap; the largest brands are spending millions to drive eyeballs to their sites.

The setting up of a website is relatively easy—any high school student can do it, and any good graphics person can create some inviting images to give your brand personality. The big cost today is in driving people to your brand. Google has amazing free analytics tools for measuring your traffic and engagement, and there are other services that can provide even more personalized detail catered to your needs.

The cost of hiring a social media and SEO team to manage your marketing and branding can run into the tens of thousands per month, but it is essential.

Whether you do it yourself or outsource it, having a brand builder to create excitement is a must. This is part art, because there are lots of options, and part science, because there is lots of data available for tracking your progress.

The cost of hiring a social media and SEO team to manage your marketing and branding can run into the tens of thousands of dollars per month, but it is essential. You need to find a way to do it nimbly—I know firsthand that it can be done with limited budgets. The secret is to establish some key performance indicators to track your investments and gauge which strategy is giving the best return. Retailers like Ulta and Sephora have huge departments focused on this, as do the big companies such as Estée Lauder and L’Oréal. But the beauty of digital marketing is that every brand has potentially the same chance to get the consumer’s attention. e “The Case for Mass Vs Class,” September 2016; www.gcimagazine.com/ magazine/pastissues/2016

In 2010, when IT Cosmetics was two years old, the brand was brought to life by QVC, raising the business up to sales of hundreds of millions virtually overnight.

Amazon: Beauty Giant Amazon, one of the best e-commerce companies, is global and at the forefront of technology due to its sheer sizef. The retailer’s rankings and analytics are incredible and, better yet, it handles thousands of beauty brands and is always on the lookout for more.

Amazon is not for everyone, but the advantage for small startup brands is that the retailer’s door is always open for you and can generate lots of global awareness. Sites like HauteLook and Gilt can also be great for inexpensively building brand awareness. The thing to just keep in mind is that, as great as all e-commerce sites are, they typically only augment a larger marketing program that might include retail, home shopping, DRTV, etc.

The main issue for beauty e-commerce is that you still need the human element. Women still like to touch and feel products and experience personal contact, so as great as digital and home shopping can be, it doesn’t provide the complete experience.

The New Direct Selling Model Direct sales is almost as old as retail. The earliest direct-selling beauty company that I know of is Avon, which began in 1886 and currently has sales of about $6.2 billion (2015). There is also Mary Kay, which was founded in 1963 and achieved 2015 revenue of $4 billion. Some direct marketers have brick and mortar, like Merle Norman, a declining brand that was founded in 1931, while others are using the power of social sharing to create modern-day Tupperware-style parties.

In the early days of direct sales, companies found reps, who may have used a Tupperware-style party plan, and generated sales f According to research from L2 (www.l2inc.com), Amazon owns beauty search results. And, according to BloomReach (bloomreach.com) research conducted

by Survata, 55% of all U.S. consumers turn to Amazon first when searching for products. Notably, Amazon increased its search share by 11% since 2015. In addition, about 90% of consumers surveyed will check Amazon even if they find a product on another site; 78% noted that this occurred frequently or every time.

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via catalogues. These strategies have evolved with the internet and social media. The successful newcomers that have embraced this early on have watched their sales skyrocket, while the old guards stuck in the past are struggling with an aging representative network and obsolete catalogues.

People may think that in order to start a direct sales business you need huge sums of money. The answer is no. Mary Kay started in 1963 with $5,000 which, adjusted for inflation, is about $40,000 today. You may believe that there are too many big direct sales companies out there and wonder how you could compete.

The reality is that there are several billion-dollar direct-selling companies and, as mentioned, some are being challenged to understand the new world order. Others have shot out of the gate and, in a couple of years, amassed hundreds of thousands of representatives at the expense of the old guard. Today, there are many multilevel marketing and direct sales companies with annual sales of more than $1 billion, as well as many small organizations doing hundreds of thousands of dollars in sales.

ultimately create a climate of personal connection to the customer. Many of today’s successful brands, including IT Cosmetics and Younique, are not selling well because they are marketed at an attractive price point or a strong point of difference, but rather because of the personal touch they deliver.

Retail pillars such as Macy’s, Nordstrom’s, CVS and Target will need to reinvent themselves to catch this new wave of personal interaction and engagement. They should hurry, because Sephora and Ulta are already there, mounting a strong campaign to build personal relationships with customers and their peers.

JEFFREY RONALD TEN (jefften@att.net) brings more than 35 years of international senior management marketing and sales experience from the prestige, mass, direct sales, travel retail cosmetic industry. Ten has held roles with Nature’s Sunshine, NYX, Calvin Klein Beauty, Procter & Gamble (Prestige Division), Giorgio Beverly Hills, Estee Lauder, Elizabeth Arden and others. Currently, he is CEO/general manager of Note Professional Cosmetics, a start-up/independent makeup brand that launched in the professional channel at Cosmoprof Las Vegas in 2016.

Telephone, Telegraph, Tell a Woman Direct sales is evolving, but still powerful because of the power of personal selling. Before the internet and social influencers, Estée Lauder knew the power of women and what they could do—her marketing mantra was: “Telephone, telegraph, tell a woman.” That sums up the capacity of people and explains why, no matter what medium comes next for the cosmetics industry, it will somehow involve a woman.

Companies like NYX and e.l.f., which jumped on the influencer bandwagon early on, are reaping the benefits today.

Today, the influencer component is the secret to bringing direct beauty sales to life. There are direct sales companies with 500,000-plus reps in the United States, while others have just a few hundred. The key is to be sensitive to the evolution of social selling and how to harness this power.

Younique is one of the most amazing direct sales multilevel brands to emerge in a long time. The company markets makeup and has been in business for just four years, growing rapidly from a small organization based in Lehi, Utah, to a major player in the United States and Europe, with annual sales exceeding $500 million.

Melanie Huscroft and her husband, Derek Maxfield, an entrepreneur in e-commerce and software, developed this brand.

Many brands in multilevel marketing have tried to incorporate digital marketing and social sharing into their business models.

But none have been as focused on building their rep network as Younique. Today, the company has more than 500,000 reps around the world. What’s their secret?

As mentioned earlier, the Tupperware party is now being done virtually, empowering millennials to leverage their network to discuss makeup and build their own businesses. These new digital networkers are taking the power of people to the next level, sharing and selling globally.

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Meet Ulta’s Beauty Enthusiasts

“U

lta had a brave marketing strategy in the United States, creating three unique shopping environments for mass, prestige and salon,” Jeffrey Ten recently wrote in Global Cosmetic Industry. Indeed, the retailer’s unique approach paid off.

Ulta Beauty’s sales continue to grow, despite the fact that so many retailers are closing doors and scaling down. In 2016, Ulta brought on board brands such as co-washing leaders Unwash, crowdsourced beauty innovator Julep and acne care giant Proactiv.

At the same time, the retailer has added 100 stores and expanded its loyalty base to more than 20 million, and boosted sales by 23% for the first half of 2016.

How is this possible? To get some answers, CEW chairwoman Jill Scalamandre (president, Global Makeup Center of Excellence, Shiseido Americas Corporation) spoke with Ulta CEO Mary Dillon as part of the organization’s transformational leadership forum.

Ulta CEO Mary Dillon said the beauty enthusiast is defined by mindset, not demographic; photo courtesy of CEW.

Retail Refresh Dillon, who took the helm in 2013, came from outside the beauty world, having previously held roles in food and telecom.

What united her experiences, she explained, were consumerdriven strategies.

The CEO noted that Ulta Beauty had an advantage from its inception by being off-mall and having a wide product assortment of brands and service offerings mixed into retail.

When Dillon joined the company, her goal was to leverage these advantages while investing in infrastructure and supply chain to support rapid growth.

Shopping in person isn’t going away.

What’s Ulta?

One of Dillon’s core missions was to enhance consumer awareness of the retailer. Currently, Ulta has only captured 5% of all beauty spenders, representing a significant opportunity for further growth. Ulta has also educated its guests regarding its loyalty program and recently launched its own credit card.

“We don’t do anything unless we’re sure our guests want it,” Dillon noted.

As Ulta evolves its marketing mix across platforms, it hopes to boost its top-of-mind awareness out of the 40% range and overall awareness (currently in the low 80% range).

Meet the Beauty Enthusiasts Dillon noted that Ulta’s segmentation scheme has shown that half of sales go to so-called “beauty enthusiasts” on a budget. But who is she?

Dillon’s answer was simple: “It’s about a mindset, not a demographic.”

The beauty enthusiast, according to Dillon, loves new, trendy products. She also likes to mix different types of brands, including small, emerging players, as well as the largest global brands.

“It’s all about newness,” she added.

Beauty enthusiasts like to shop in a fun, low-pressure, open-sell environment. They’re highly self-directed and draw heavily from research and social media influencers.

As Dillon spoke, it became clear that Ulta represents a fragmentation of beauty shoppers across categories. Its beauty enthusiasts shop at many retailers (though less often at drug or department channels) other than Ulta and don’t neatly fit into any single demographic definition. She is merely a person who loves beauty in-store and online.

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Mixing it Up Ulta Beauty’s product array freely mixes categories, brands and price points, which have evolved to include more prestige, which is no wonder since the prestige beauty category is growing rapidly. Guests love it, Dillon said. As a result, the CEO has revamped the company to focus less on chasing pricepoint and more on achieving the right brand mix that entices consumers without deep discounts. Enter: the beauty enthusiasts.

But what does Dillon look for in brands? The CEO noted that she looks for brands that can partner with Ulta, those that think in multiyear terms, as well as brands offering exclusives and firstto-market products.

Curating a compelling mix of brands requires an innovative, creative and entrepreneurial group at Ulta, Dillon explained, as well as a strong assortment of in-store and guest services.

These services “animate the stores,” Dillon noted, and offer strong growth potential since only about 7% of Ulta loyalty members currently use offerings such as the hair salon. Services also distinguish and protect Ulta from the digital space. As Dillon noted, “You can’t get a haircut at Amazon.”

Beauty starts on the phone.

Omnichannel Matters In the latest quarter, Ulta’s e-commerce sales grew 54.9% to $55.9 million, up from $36.1 million in the second quarter of fiscal 2015.

Beauty starts on the phone, Dillon said during the CEW event.

That’s where the shopper’s path begins.

She added, however, “Shopping in person isn’t going away,” because it’s fun and beauty shoppers like the convenience of the physical store. Still, the company is evolving its digital offerings such as shoppable content.

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∑ Consumers, especially millennials, are focused on prevention, opening new opportunities in skin and sun care. ∑ Brands with wellness positioning, especially those developed by experts such as dermatologists, could have an edge in the market. ∑ Though beauty-from-within has struggled to expand, innovative brands could succeed by partnering with a skin care partner. @GCI_Magazine 30

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As nutricosmetics struggle to take off beyond Asia Pacific, those with backing from credible high-equity dermocosmetics brands stand the best chance of succeeding.

| BY NICHOLAS MICALLEF, senior beauty and personal care analyst, Euromonitor

chieving beautiful skin is no longer confined to wearing makeup or applying anti-aging creams to hide or reverse the unkindly visible. At the same time, greater knowledge and urban lifestyles are encouraging consumers to have healthy skin at all times. The bottom line is “I want to feel and look good,” and, to do so, consumers seek to maintain hydrated luminous skin, protect it from external impurities such as pollution and get a gradual tan without the burn.

Along with a more educated consumer comes a quest for a cleaner lifestyle, as well as a greater awareness of the use of chemicals in a number of products and a declining interest in unnatural tans and “roasted” skin. This is perhaps what is driving the beauty industry to align itself more proactively with healthcare. Among the most dynamic beauty segments, particularly with skin care and sun care, is dermocosmetics. Going forward, this may be a detriment to remedial options, such as anti-agers, which are typically the purview of most cosmetics brands.

Beauty supplement players without a presence in topical counterparts can enhance their prospects by co-branding with a dynamic skin care player to promote the supplements as part of an extended skin care regime.

Quest for Prevention Prevention is proving to be a formidable source of growth in skin and sun care (F-1). Acne-sufferers are already aware of the scarring damage caused by acne, the unsightly look of flaring eczema and the difficulty of reversing wrinkle formation caused by sunburns, dry skin and older age. Hence, consumers are getting the idea of using preventative products at a young age to prolong youthfulness.

It’s no wonder the shift is being driven by millennials, whose ultimate aim appears to be to quash the longer-term need for anti-agers. The result is a robust prospect in products that support skin maintenance—often with anti-aging benefits within—including face masks, cleansers and moisturizers. As a result, anti-agers, which remain solid at the moment, might eventually lose some of their spark, with strong activity coming from other skin care categories.

F-1. Global skin and sun care categories: forecast absolute growth 2015–2020; % CAGR 2010–2015 and 2015–2020

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This scenario is boosting dermocosmetics, and variants that embody similar characteristics, such as health-alignment and the use of powerful natural ingredients. Top skin care performers Avène, La RochePosay, Eucerin and Rodan + Fields have expanded at the same level or faster than the overall skin and sun care segments, which expanded at a 5% CAGR between 2010 and 2015. As a result, dermocosmetics is witnessing new entrants such as Rodan + Fields, Murad and Cetaphil, which are looking to exploit opportunities in beauty’s prevention trend, as well as consumer demand for products endorsed and/or developed by dermatologists.

In other developments, Nestlé formed Nestlé Skin Health following the 2014 acquisition of Galderma. The group was established to lead the beauty-healthcare convergence, with product lines such as Cetaphil’s skin hydration and protection offerings for consumers with “troubled” skin. More recently, the company joined forces with Guthy-Renker to boost the non-prescription kits and treatments of the leading Proactiv brand.

Author Robin McGraw, founder and CEO of Robin McGraw Revelation, and board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Jessica Wu, have collaborated to launch a luxury skin care range under the Robin McGraw Revelation brand. The launch reflects a broader trend of dermatologistdeveloped brands, which are chasing general dermocosmetic market demand.

Dermocosmetics Can Solve the Nutricosmetics Problem As nutricosmetics struggle to take off beyond Asia Pacific, those with backing from credible high-equity dermocosmetics brands stand the best chance of succeeding (F-2). When examining beauty dietary supplements and beauty-from-within sales, it is apparent that this space remains

Asia-centric, where the idea that beauty is what you eat is rooted in local culture.

In other regions, most notably North America, legislative constraints, consumer cynicism and a desire for instant visible results limit the segment’s growth.

When looking at the global total dietary supplements segment, which was valued at $54 billion in 2015, only 6% of sales were from beauty-positioned supplements. However, this portion rose

F-2. Global and key regional value sales: beauty from within (2010–2015) and beauty dietary supplements (2011–2016)

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to 8% in Western Europe and 9% in Asia Pacific. The lower global proportion is explained by the relatively limited availability of beauty supplements in developing markets.

Consumer preference remains overwhelmingly for health-positioned supplements, which may include ingredients such as vitamin C that provide, but do not acknowledge, beauty benefits.

While the state of our hair and skin reflects personal health, a “beauty” claim is often too “shallow” for the consumer, compared to a health claim—especially in an era when consumers demand tangible proof of efficacy.

One of the latest fads in nutricosmetics is the wave of collagen-containing functional foods claiming to replace the collagen lost with ageing. However, there are questions as to whether the collagen is actually absorbed by the body or reaches the skin in order to perform its function.

Dermatologists’ opinions are mixed on the subject, and unfavorable ones tend to adversely impact consumer purchasing decisions.

Seemingly, nutricosmetics are bound to be the underdog within the wider beauty and nutraceuticals industries for the foreseeable future. The tough reality is that nutricosmetics cannot survive in isolation and need to be part of a broader regime that includes topical applications and a wider spectrum of health supplements.

Millennials are focused on using preventative products at a young age to prolong youthfulness, with the ultimate aim to quash the longer-term need for anti-agers.

The result is a robust prospect in products that support skin maintenance, including face masks, cleansers and moisturizers. Recently, Korean skin care facial mask brand Masqueology introduced a range of affordable masks that retail at 3,000 U.S. Walmart locations and online, effectively mainstreaming the K-beauty mask trend.

Making Beauty-fromWithin Work Beauty-from-within food and beverages, positioned as beneficial healthy substitutes to food snacks and drinks, are another option for brands, especially as consumers may find ingesting pills less thrilling. However, that category remains niche, projected to generate $60.5 million in absolute gains globally between 2015

Dirty Lemon has cracked the beauty-from-within code with Instagrammable packaging, pleasant taste, good results and an embodiment of a holistic approach to health, body and mind wellbeing.

and 2020, led by the markets of Asia Pacific and Western Europe.

A brand that is seemingly defying this scenario is Dirty Lemon, an Instagramready drinkable beauty range consisting of detox, energy, skin and hair, and sleep drinks. The brand boasts a strong beauty blogger backing for its pleasant taste, results and embodiment of a holistic approach to health, body and mind wellbeing.

While the dominance of dietary supplements positioned for health benefits is expected to persist, beauty ingestibles find their strength in the equity of a stronger partner—dermocosmetics.

Dynamic brands such as Murad and Caudalie already sell their own supplements with a variety of benefits such as blemish control and anti-wrinkle.

Beauty supplements players without a presence in topical counterparts can enhance their prospects by co-branding with a dynamic skin care player to promote the supplements as part of an extended skin care regime.

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Raising the bar from anti-aging to true cosmeceuticals. ∑ With the rise of aging populations and growing consumer awareness regarding the effects of time, lifestyle and environment, consumers are seeking innovative, gentler anti-aging brands.

| BY LISA DOYLE

∑ Suppliers and brands have responded to demand by leveraging probiotic solutions, surgical alternatives and more. ∑ Future anti-aging products will need to provide consumers with a greater level of efficacy, naturalness and sustainability, ease-of-use and cost-effectiveness.

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C

osmeceuticals have been big business for baby boomer-friendly brands for quite some time—and it’s growing even more quickly than projected. According to a recent report from Research and Markets*, the global cosmeceuticals market is on pace to reach $61 billion by 2020, representing the fastest-growing segment in the cosmetics industry, largely due to an aging population in North America and Europe, in addition to the growth of the use of cosmetics to combat early signs of aging.

“Aging is both intrinsic and extrinsic,” said Anurag Pande, Ph.D., VP of scientific affairs, Sabinsa Corporation. “Usually cosmetic products are focused toward masking the signs of aging, whereas these blends have been designed specifically to help slow down the intrinsic aging process.”

How this is accomplished is what separates true cosmeceuticals from the pack.

the skin’s microbiota and skin aging and the appearance of the skin. While there are many solutions already in the market for reducing free radicals and UV induced DNA damage, our product is one of the first to focus on leveraging the microbiome to provide better-looking skin.”

Replidium can also help restore the skin’s barrier function, which often has been reduced due to aging and environmental conditions.

Ludwig explained, “[This reduction] disrupts the cutaneous ecosystem and alters the natural microbial biodiversity, and this change in the microbiome leads to dehydration. The resulting dryness provokes in turn an imbalance in the flora: the skin dehydrates itself.

Through our patent-pending extract utilizing two microbial species, we have found that application improves skin hydration, restores the skin’s physical and immunological barrier function,

and beneficial microbes are significantly increased within two weeks while pathogenic ones are decreased. The barrierflora symbiosis puts the skin back into a virtuous circle with healthy moisture levels.”

Surgical Alternatives Solutions that get the root of aging issues can be an effective alternative to surgical intervention.

“Surgical interventions are only to provide a cosmetic solution to the problem, but they do not reduce or slow down the aging process,” said Pande. “The natural skin care in the right formulations and delivery system can help to provide the right nutrients to the skin and reduce the intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors.”

Sabinsa’s Ageless Complex, a blend containing beta gluten from barley, N-acetyl glucosamine, PteroWhite extract from Pterocarpus marsupium, niacin amide

Microbiome Boosters Understanding the causes of aging, rather than simply providing Band-Aid solutions for them, is what makes a cosmeceutical product so effective. More and more, formulators and brands are focused on the microbiome. Microbiomefocused anti-aging products have expanded in the beauty industry, with brands including Esse Probiotic Serum, Bioelements’ Probiotic Anti-Aging Serum and mybody’s Future is Bright Probiotic Anti-Aging Hydrator.

“There are multiple theories of why an organism ages, with inflammation and a dysregulated immune response being two,” explained Philip Ludwig, technical account manager for BASF Personal Care, North America.

Replidium, the company’s new yeast extract modified through biotechnology, revitalizes and rebalances the skin through a microbiome-benefit mechanism.

“The microbiome effects both of these areas, and new research is continuously bringing light to the relationship between www.researchandmarkets.com

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Rising demand for anti-aging brands has led to an increase in the use of salicylic acid, as seen in GlamGlow’s SuperMud Clearing Treatment.

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and tocopheryl acetate. The ingredients work together to reduce the inflammatory enzymes in the skin, thereby increasing elasticity and a more even complexion.

Pande noted, “The Ageless Complex is further boosted by Cosmoperine, a patented ingredient of Sabinsa, which helps in improving the bioavailability of the topical nutrients in the skin and helps them to reach the target cells.”

A Better Peel

In healing or preventing the signs of aging, what goes into the body is as important as what goes on it; for that reason, beauty from within brands have proliferated.

The range of options in the peel treatment category are many, including DCL Multi-Action Penta Peel, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel and Bluemercury’s M-61 powerglow peel.

Fortunately, for those seeking medispa treatments, or even at-home peels for their anti-aging skin care needs, solutions that are gentler to the skin and more effective are on the horizon, creating new demands for salicylic acid.

A recent scan of Sephora’s brand mix revealed nearly 250 brands (including many non-antiaging prodducts) touting the power of salicylic acid, including Philosophy’s Clear Days Ahead Oil-Free Salicylic Acid Acne Treatment Cleanser, Peter Thomas Roth’s Acne Clearing Wash, GlamGlow’s SuperMud Clearing Treatment and Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Peel Extra.

A new report by Grand View Research** found that the global glycolic acid market is expected to reach $415 million by 2024, largely fueled by rising demand for cosmeceuticals. In Europe, the market in Italy is expected to see the highest growth, more than 11.5%, owed to increasing demand for creams, lotions and face peels featuring the ingredient. Additionally, the Asia Pacific region is projected to experience growth of more than 12%, thanks to demand, raw material availability and a large local manufacturer base.

One supplier, Vantage Personal Care (VPC), has launched Curcylic 40 gel, a patented version of salicylic acid, which provides an alternative to traditional salicylic acid and glycolic acid peels for anti-aging.

“Curcylic 40 gel offers age fighters a safe and effective way to exfoliate on a regular www.grandviewresearch.com

**

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Probiotic brands such as BioEsse Probiotic Essence for the Skin (pictured) are focused on supporting a healthy skin microbiome in the service of anti-aging and delayed aging activity. BioEsse utilizes its proprietary probiotic, BellaCell, which is sourced from the human microbiome. The line comprises a facial cleanser, serum, lotion and eye cream.

basis, which has been clinically shown to improve skin’s performance in terms of moisture content, barrier function, texture, fine lines and wrinkles and mottle pigmentation,” said Michael Anthonavage, technology director, VPC. “What is unique about Curcylic 40 gel is that its patented formulation allows for daily use without any added risk of burning, peeling and overall irritation that normally accompanies traditional salicylic acid and glycolic acid peels.”

Repairing and Restoring Cytoregulin, from VPC, has the capacity to heal and restore skin tissue-deep.

“CytoRegulin mimics the function of transforming growth factor b (TGF β), which is a multifunctional growth factor that regulates cell proliferation and differentiation, tissue homeostasis, remodeling and repair,” said Jed Reimer, R&D senior principal scientist, VPC. “CytoRegulin stimulates key anti-aging pathways, leading to healing and the restoration of the extracellular matrix and has been shown to modulate matrixrelated genes and build collagen, resulting in the improvement of the appearance of the skin’s wrinkles, pores, color and tone.”

From the Inside Out In healing or preventing the signs of aging, what goes into the body is as important as what goes on it. For that reason, beauty from within brands have proliferated, including Pure Gold Collagen, Lane Labs’ Toki Collagen Powder Drink and Neocell Beauty Infusion Refreshing Collagen. At the same time, suppliers are offering ingredients and extracts appropriate for nutraceuticals that offer marketers an edge as the segment continues to grow. www.GCImagazine.com

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“Sabinsa has a range of ingredients for the nutritional segment of the market, which can complement the activity of the topical products in the anti-aging segment,” said Pande. “Products like Curcumin C3 Complex, C3 Reduct, Silbinol, Resvenox, Oxoresvenox, pomegranate extract and Saberry are just a few of the ingredients that can provide the nutrients to slow down the aging process.”

What’s Next in Cosmeceuticals?

The benefits that consumers will demand in their cosmeceuticals are largely the same as what they want in all their personal care products: sustainable, more efficacious, less pricey and often a combination of all three.

“Customers are constantly looking for less expensive topical products to provide similar or more natural-looking results through less expensive means,” said Ludwig.

And, you can expect that suppliers, and brands, will rise to the occasion.

“Cosmeceuticals, as well as advances in prescription drugs, have always played a role in influencing skin care on a consumer level,” said Anthonavage.

“Advances in technology as seen with injectable polymers and drugs that target skin-related mechanisms, such as those seen in rosacea and inflammation, all inspire consumer product developers to find alternatives that come from natural sources, or expand on existing technology opportunities.”

LISA DOYLE was formerly the associate editor of Global Cosmetic Industry and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.

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COLOR FOCUS

∑ Innovation in digital technology is reshaping consumers’ beauty demands, especially in color cosmetics. ∑ Products offering blurring, HD, 3-D, blending and lightening effects are emerging to meet the aesthetic needs of social media users.

Digital-savvy consumers are driving new trends in beauty.

∑ In the future, innovation will focus on a more inclusive notion of beauty, allowing for a greater acceptance of imperfections.

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Color Focus

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| BY IMOGEN MATTHEWS, consultant to in-cosmetics Global

olor cosmetics are expected to do so much more than enhance natural appearance or create a glamorous look.

Today, it’s also about looking your best— indeed, perfect—for the smartphone camera.

Social media has fueled this desire for perfection and brands are responding with innovative products and apps to appeal to digitallyaware consumers.

Enhanced mobile technologies mean that anyone can take a selfie using the camera on their phone or tablet. If it’s not good enough, then there are numerous tools at the user’s disposal to improve their picture-making skills. Young women, particularly millennials, are the most engaged demographic group and like to post selfies online on various social platforms, including Instagram, Snapchat, Facebook and Twitter. Therefore, the need to be photo-ready is essential.

Beauty brands are responding with a new twist on traditional products, such as foundation, blusher, highlighter, eye and lip products. The jargon used is designed to entice women looking for HD-perfect skin through the use of words such as “Photoshopping” and “filters.” For example, Sephora’s Colorful Eyeshadow Photo Filter Palette comes in two colorways: “sun-bleached filter” and “overcast filter.”

Examples of other HD-touting products include Make Up Forever Ultra HD Foundation + Hydrating Skin Equalizer Customizable Set; Vita Liberata Body Blur Instant HD Skin Finish; Viseart Corrector, www.GCImagazine.com

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Contour, Camouflage HD Palette; Dior Capture Totale Foundation; Lit Cosmetics Holographic Lit Kit; and Wander Beauty On-The-Glow Bronzer and Illuminator.

Meanwhile, Estée Lauder’s Estée Edit line targets the 18–24 year old millennial consumer with products that include Flash Photo Powder and Flash Illuminator.

Its Hi Lo Contour + Highlight pencil is an easy to use product that means the user can look Instagram-ready at every opportunity.

The latest trends in selfie makeup are coming from Asia, where beauty is not only taken extremely seriously, but to a whole new level. For example, the region’s

color brands are looking for new ways to connect with consumers, including collaborations with bloggers to create new products or shades, for example Korean blogger Pony’s collaboration with box subscription and e-commerce player, Memebox, which led to the introduction of Pony X Memebox. The range includes Shine Easy Glam Eyeshadow Palette, Pony Blossom Lipstick and Pony Easy Mix Block Blush.

“Many products, such as those in Japan, are claiming to be perfect from a 10-cm distance and from any angle, thanks to a blurring effect and light reflection pigments,” explained Florence Bernardin, company manager, Information et Inspiration, which specializes in Asian beauty trends.

Estée Lauder’s Estée Edit line targets the 18–24 year old millennial consumer with products that allow them to look Instagram-ready at every opportunity.

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COLOR FOCUS

Bernadin will speak as part of the marketing trends program of the 2016 incosmetics Global in London, taking place April 4–6.* For example, Integrate from Shiseido is a loose mineral foundation that evens out pores to make them disappear. The product is non-cakey and has a justapplied long-lasting finish. Another powder product is A’Pieu Shiny Luster Lighting Pact SPF17/PA+ by Korean company Able C&C, which provides an instant Photoshopped flawless finish. The product is aimed at those wanting a quick touch-up when taking a selfie. A’Pieu Shiny Luster Lighting Pact SPF17/PA+ has a dual puff for different benefits: the coated side is for a light powdery makeup finish with a glow, and the reverse is for covering pores and keeping makeup in place for longer.

A’Pieu Shiny Luster Lighting Pact SPF17/ PA+ by Korean company Able C&C provides an instant Photoshopped flawless finish.

Leading Asian beauty brand Amore Pacific has introduced Etude House Beauty Shot Face Blur SPF15/PA+, with a blendable formula that creates a smooth finish and blurs out imperfections seamlessly for a flawless look. Its “baby Pixel Powder” (blur powder) is a weightless powder that ensures the color lays down smoothly while brightening skin tone.

Traditional products, such as blusher and highlighters are also getting a makeover, thanks to 21st century wording designed to appeal to connected consumers. www.in-cosmetics.com

*

The Laneige Beauty Mirror gives the user the impression they are actually applying makeup; once the look is complete, it can be saved and shared on social media.

“Strobing is a new naming that is coming to Asia but, as a product effect, is not new at all,” said Bernardin. “It used to be called ‘shading’ or … ‘3-D effects,’ as many Asian women want to have a slimmer face that doesn’t look too flat.

Similarly, light reflection has always been included in foundation to bring light to the face for a brighter skin tone—it is part of the Asian beauty ideal. I would say strobing is bringing new product formats such as convenient pencils or cushions to the beauty markets.”

In the space of a few short years, the beauty market has been flooded with smartphone applications that specialize in helping consumers to discover makeup tips and products. And the latest technology coming from Asia has led to apps which can do much more.

Apps leveraging VR technology include Urban Decay’s Vice lipstick app, which allows users to virtually try on 120 shades on their phone; Perfect Corp.’s digital makeover app, YouCam Makeup; FaceCake Marketing Technologies’ inbrowser augmented reality shopping platform for Cargo Cosmetics; and ModiFace’s skin tone Live Scan technology, which allows users to take a 3-D scan of any face or photo and convert it into a look that can be applied directly to their live video.

One of the most straightforward apps is Shiseido’s Misette (translated as “let me see”) that allows users to share their makeup tips. Users can find the tips they want from a timeline, but can also search by facial parts, rankings or tags.

Mirror technology is opening up a whole new dimension through the ability to detect facial movement in real time. First introduced in Korea, the

Laneige Beauty Mirror gives the user the impression they are actually applying makeup. Once the look is complete, it can be saved and shared on social media, such as Facebook, Instagram, Snapchat, Twitter and Kakaotalk. The cosmetic items can be saved onto a smartphone.

Furthermore, the products used for the virtual makeover can be purchased directly from Laneige.

A more lighthearted, whimsical example is Shiseido’s digital campaign for its 16-color Rouge lipstick. The campaign’s app allows two people to kiss each other virtually through the phone: two lipstick marks are captured, and then “Kiss Monsters” appear on the screen.

In October 2016, Beauty magazine Biteki cover-mounted a clip-on smartphone lens. The macro lens can take close-up photos, even of skin texture and pores, and can be used to check the effect of products on the skin. The wide-angled lens is designed to take a wide shot selfie using the smartphone.

Beauty futurologist Antoinette van den Berg envisaged a future for makeup that is more egalitarian and allows consumers to embrace their individuality. Van den Berg will also speak as part of in-cosmetics Global’s trend track in 2016.

“Transgender is a very important new group that will influence brands to take another approach to developing cosmetics,” she noted.

Van den Berg said that brands will look at this group differently and create a marketing blur, in the same way as some have when targeting older consumers.

Another change will be the creation of makeup that allows people’s unique imperfections to be visible.

Van den Berg predicted, “It may lead to a drop in sales of products for coverage, but create a new niche for transparent foundations.”

IMOGEN MATTHEWS is a consultant to in-cosmetics.

For more information, contact www.imogenmatthews.co.uk.

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At first sight, Alpha’s jars turn heads. But a closer look at our wide range of options reveals even more reasons to trust Alpha for your personal care packaging needs.

With seven North American manufacturing locations to choose from, we can help you get jars faster and with lower shipping costs from our plant to your filler. Alpha is currently stocking more sizes and colors of PET plastic jars than ever before, from 2 ounces to 32 ounces; and, if you desire a custom color to reinforce your brand, we can create a color for you with very low minimums.

Alpha can also create a custom mold or enhance your finished package with high quality silk screening, labeling or spray frosting to take your brand to the next level.

At Alpha Packaging, we don’t just make beautiful things; we make beauty that works for you.

For free samples of our stock bottles and jars, visit www.alphap.com and click “Request a Sample.”

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COLOR FOCUS

Behind every color cosmetic trend is the need for a great-feeling product that applies easily and delivers the powerful visual effects consumers want.

∑ Color cosmetics growth is outpacing that of any other beauty care category, particularly in the prestige segment. ∑ Consumers increasingly seek new effects and functionality, including highlighters, bold brows, primers and more. ∑ Consumer demand for greater variety will lead to ever-more variations of products and new formats.

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| BY JENNIFER DONAHUE, Croda International

I

n North America, the dynamic, multi-faceted color cosmetics market is valued at $15.7 billion. According to Euromonitor*, the segment has grown faster than any other personal care category in the past five years and is forecasted to grow by an additional 3.4% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) through 2020.

Even more impressive is the forecasted CAGR of 6% for the premium sector of color cosmetics, which accounts for 42.3% of the value of the category, according to Euromonitor. With so much growth on the horizon, the color cosmetics category is sure to be a great place to watch trends come to life.

Keep an eye on these top innovative trends in color cosmetics.

1. Highlighters Enhance Natural Beauty K-beauty is one of the biggest influencers of trends in the color cosmetics and skin care market (see Page 46). South Korean women are using products that create beautiful, glowing skin, which has resulted in increased demand for a skin care regimen with www.euromonitor.com

*

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cosmetics that accentuate, rather than mask, natural beauty.

In addition to the wildly popular cushion compact, skin highlighters, also known as skin illuminators, have seen a recent spike in popularity, with 709 North American launches so far in 2016, compared with 757 in all of 2015 (Mintel).** Examples include Perricone MD No Highlighter Highlighter, Benefit Cosmetics Dandelion Shy Beam Matte Highlighter and Wander Beauty Catch the Light Highlighter.

New application techniques like strobing are creating a next-generation contouring effect that enhances and defines facial features while creating an overall luminous, dewy look. Best of all, the process is much simpler than contouring.

Skin highlighters can be used for strobing and come in a variety of easyto-use formats, including liquid drops, powders, pencils or pens for a precise application to the face or eye brow area, and light emulsions with a high degree of spreading for easy application.

Croda’s Skin Highlighting Cream ED0004 features light-spreading ether Arlamol LST (INCI: PPG-3 Isostearyl www.mintel.com

**

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COLOR FOCUS

Methy Ether), in conjunction with Crodafos CS-20A (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20 Phosphate (and) Dicetyl Phosphate), a substantive emulsifier with a light skin feel.

The natural look that skin highlighters make possible is part of the larger “natural” megatrend that focuses on health, wellness and looking your best with makeup that is designed to accentuate your features, not overpower them. The no make-up look is trending, with thousands of tutorials available online to help consumers achieve it.

2. Strong Brows Make a Statement Bold brows that are well-manicured, full and thick have become all the rage, with companies like Benefit coming out with entire collections promising “instant solutions for every brow dilemma.”

With nearly 300 launches, cosmetics for eyebrows comprised 13% of eye makeup launches in 2015, according to Mintel.

Brow products come in a variety of formats, and the accompanying applicator is essential for precise delivery of the product. Spoolie applicators help shape and fill in color delivered from pencils or gels that can highlight or help volumize eyebrows. Cream-gels are a novel texture for this category, delivering styling benefits to keep full brows tamed.

3. Cues from Skin Care

Croda’s Smokey Velvet Eyeshadow, comprising Sensasil PCA for a silky, cushiony feel, and Arlamol LST and Crodamol STS for emollience.

Examples of products in the space include Benefit Cosmetics Bigger & Bolder Brows Kit, Smashbox Brow Tech Shaping Powder and Wander Beauty Frame Your Face Micro Brow Pencil.

According to Euromonitor, brow products are part of the fastest growing sub-segment of the color cosmetic market, “other eye makeup,” which also includes eye primers and eyelash growth products. In the North American market, this segment has grown by 8.3% CAGR over the past five years and is forecasted to grow at 8.2% CAGR over the next five years.

Eye primers are another fast growing sub-category of color cosmetics. There have been 41 launches in North America since the beginning of the year, more than the previous four years combined, according to Mintel. Eyelash primers saw tremendous growth in 2015 in both North America and globally; now there is similar launch activity for the general eye area.

Like BB and CC creams, primers are a crossover product from skin care. In fact, there are BB and CC eye primers, like bareMinerals Well-Rested CC Eye Primer, which promises to “instantly cool and recharge skin.” Most launches in this space are in the premium market, appealing to consumers who invest in their eye makeup and want it to stay on all day.

According to Mintel, the top claim for both eye lash primers and eye primers in North America is “long lasting,” followed by “ease of use.” Globally, “brightening/ illuminating” is the top claim.

Eye primers designed for eyelids can be lightly tinted or clear serums, coming in formats like sticks, balms, creams or liquids that can be applied with a simple applicator tip, or long-lasting eyeshadow that endures for a specifically claimed amount of time. Eyelash primers are applied using a mascara wand. They are generally clear to emphasize one’s natural eyelash features but can also be topped off with a mascara.

4. Inspiration from Hair Care Color cosmetics is also taking cues from hair care, as with makeup setting sprays, which can be thought of as a safe, gentle hair spray for the face. Most of these products claim to be oil-free and use a polymer to set the makeup so that it maintains the just-applied look.

This product is a perfect fit for the busy, on-the-go consumer. It’s important that the product dries quickly after it is applied, and that it provides a comfortable film that gives a smooth finish that’s not too shiny.

5. Color Palettes for All Trends in the color category are not only about texture and formats but also colors and application techniques.

Seasonal color palettes follow trends set by the fashion industry, as well as innovations in raw materials with new pigments and new combinations of ingredients. For example, L’Oréal has focused on meeting

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the needs of women of color with its new, bluer shades of foundation and deeper, bolder eye shadows featured in Lupita Nyong’o’s Lancôme campaign in 2015.

This exciting innovation is an important step toward providing more product options for the increasingly diverse population of the United States. Vibrant colors add an element of fun and allow for greater creativity and individuality, especially when creating a smoky eye look.

Croda’s Rich Emollience Lipstick, comprising Liquiwax PolyIPL for easy application, creamy texture and great color payoff, and Cromollient DP3A for a rich emollience, excellent wax solvency properties, robust stick structure and silky feel on application.

An increasing number of colors can be incorporated into this popular look for a dramatic eye-catching appearance. Eye shadows should be easy to apply by either a brush or with a finger. When using a finger, it is preferable to have a texture that’s soft and silky to the touch and easily blendable without any residue.

Croda’s Smokey Velvet Eyeshadow ED006 uses the novel silicone based emollient Sensasil PCA (INCI: PCA Dimethicone) to achieve an exceptional cushion and slip on pick-up. Croda’s Rich Emollience Lipstick comprises Liquiwax PolyIPL for easy application, creamy texture and color payoff, and Cromollient

DP3A for a rich emollience, excellent wax solvency properties, a robust stick structure and silky feel on application.

6. Vibrant Matte Matte lipstick in bold bright shades is another hot cosmetic trend. Many of the latest launches are long-wearing liquids that promise comfortable wear all day long. According to Mintel, North American launches in the first half of 2016 have already surpassed the number of 2015 launches, and Brazil is showing a similar upward trend.

Matte lipsticks can be a balancing act because many of the emollients and butters that moisturize the lip area also leave a shiny finish. The most common known disadvantage of a matte lipstick is dry, cracked or chapped lips, making it unpleasant for some consumers. Because of this, it’s important to balance the product’s matteness and comfort, which in turn paves a way to new matte lipstick launches. It’s all about using the right combination of quicker drying emollients and gelling/structuring agents that are comfortable to apply but also add long wear that doesn’t feather or migrate.

New Opportunities for New Formats Demand for greater variety in the skin care aisle has spilled over into the color cosmetic category. As a result, new combinations of emulsifiers, rheology modifiers, waxes and emollients are critical to future color cosmetic development.

The color cosmetic category is a great place to introduce new formats and textures to meet increasing demand, because behind every color cosmetic trend is the need for a great feeling product that applies easily and delivers the powerful visual effects consumers want.

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BEAUTY INNOVATION

∑ Korean beauty exports are booming, reaching $2.64 billion in 2015, meaning K-beauty’s influence will continue to expand. ∑ Westerners selectively adopt elements of elaborate K-beauty rituals, which can have as many as 10 steps. ∑ The latest K-beauty innovations tempting global consumers include body masks, carbonated formulations and topical Botox.

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Beauty Innovation

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These are the hottest trends in K-beauty today.

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T

he world’s obsession with Korean beauty continues unabated.

First, there were BB creams (“beauty balms” combining moisturizers and foundation), then CC creams (“color correctors”), followed by ampoules, essences, finishers, serums and sheet masks. Now, K-beauty is more influential than ever, with a proliferation of brands and products covering the spectrum of the beauty alphabet to satisfy consumers’ insatiable quest for perfect skin.

In 2015, South Korean skin care and cosmetics exports were at their highest value ever—$2.64 billion, compared with $1.91 billion in 2014, according to figures gathered by the Korea Customs Service. Such phenomenal growth is due, in large part, to a U.S. market enamored of K-beauty’s focus on fresh, dewy skin and a youthful glow. This movement has been led by several popular, fastgrowing American startups, including Peach and Lily, Soko Glam, Glow Recipe and Memebox, which were founded by enterprising Americans of Korean descent.* Korean beauty routines are notoriously labor-intensive, with 10-step-plus rituals, compared to Americans’ more straightforward cleanse-tone-moisturize process. However, American consumers are beginning to pick and choose just how much to customize their daily regimens.

With Korea’s focus on innovation, natural ingredients (bamboo, ginseng) and exotic extracts (snail extract,

anyone?), and “prestige quality” at mass market price points, there is a proliferation of revolutionary new products to fall in love with.

The Power of Fermentation Many of us eat probiotic yogurt, made by fermentation, for its rich health benefits. Korean brands such as Whamisa utilize a similar fermentation process to distil and preserve the potency of select natural ingredients, giving skin a potent boost of nourishment and hydration.

The process of fermentation breaks down the nutrients into small particles that are easier for skin to absorb on a cellular level, as seen in Whamisa’s Organic Flowers collection.

Popular Korean brand Innisfree’s Jeju Sparkling Mineral Powder makes carbonated bubbles when dissolved in water, giving your face a bubble massage and rendering skin instantly brighter.

The most popular fermented ingredients in Korean skin care include fermented botanicals, such as chrysanthemum and dandelion, which contain antioxidant properties, as well as rice and soy.

Traditional cosmetic processes use high temperatures to blend ingredients and actives, explained Christine Chang, cofounder of Glow Recipe. By contrast, fermented ingredients are slowly processed over several weeks in an oxygen-free environment, preserving active skin care benefits.

Sheet Masks 2.0

| BY LAURA ZIV Tosowoong’s Rice Paper Pack is not pre-saturated; users must pour the moisture essence, made of natural wild rice extracts, onto the paper just before usage. * “K-beauty Won’t Last Forever,” September 2016; www.gcimagazine.com/magazine/pastissues

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The highly popular hydrating sheet masks, typically composed of cotton, which debuted in the United States five years ago, have evolved greatly in terms of materials and fit. The newest Korean sheet masks are made out of charcoal, silk, aloe and rice paper, in addition to hydrogel and fiber cellulose masks that adhere closely to the skin.

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BEAUTY INNOVATION

Korean company Midaskin launched BoLC A+ serum and cream containing botulinum Polypetide-1, the world’s first topical Botox ingredient, which was recently patented by the brand’s labs.

They also target specific areas of the face, such as Mizon’s Intensive Skin Barrier Eye Gel Mask, as well as other parts of the body, including hands, feet, neck and thighs. Holika Holika’s Baby Silky Foot Mask Sheet, for example, softens the thickened soles and skin of tired feet.

Other developments include sheet masks that foam up and can be washed off after usage, as well as freshly infused masks. Cult favorite Korean skin care brand Tosowoong’s Rice Paper Pack, made out of real rice paper, is not pre-saturated.

Users must pour the moisture essence, made of natural wild rice extracts, onto the paper just before usage. This ensures greater freshness and efficacy.

Bubbled Beauty Face washing with carbonated water, which originated in Japan but was popularized in Korea, is gaining a cult following elsewhere, thanks to its vaunted pore-cleansing, toning and firming properties. Popular Korean brand Innisfree’s Jeju Sparkling Mineral Powder makes carbonated bubbles when dissolved

in water, giving your face a bubble massage and rendering skin instantly brighter.

Carbonated face masks, such as the whimsically named Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask by Korean brand Elizavecca, take the trend further with ingredients such as charcoal powder, which detoxifies pores, draws out the skin’s impurities, and leaves it smooth and invigorated.

At-home LED Devices While at-home LED devices are still relatively rare in the United States, buzz has been growing thanks to enthusiastic use by A-list celebrities (with A-list price tags to match). In Korea, these devices are a fairly common treatment at estheticians and dermatologist offices.

The Korean (though French-sounding) Deesse LED Mask, for example, sends varying wavelengths of light energy into the skin’s layers. The light therapy is used to boost collagen levels, fight acne, and reduce scars, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

K-beauty masks often target specific areas of the face, such as Mizon’s Intensive Skin Barrier Eye Gel Mask.

Holika Holika’s Baby Silky Foot Mask Sheet softens the thickened soles and skin of tired feet.

The Deesse LED Mask sends varying wavelengths of light energy into the skin’s layers, reportedly boosting collagen.

Korean brands such as Whamisa utilize a fermentation process to distil and preserve the potency of select natural ingredients, giving skin a potent boost of nourishment and hydration.

Topical Botox Korean company Midaskin launched BoLC A+ serum and cream containing botulinum Polypetide-1, the world’s first topical Botox ingredient, which was recently patented by the brand’s labs.

According to Peach and Lily’s founder, Alicia Yoon, this is a global beauty breakthrough. Midaskin’s products are the first to be made with this innovative polypeptide ingredient, the same used in injectable Botox.

In the serum, Botulinum Polypeptide-1 provides smoothness and elasticity to drooping skin. The facial cream also contains adenosine, said to be a powerful anti-aging ingredient, as well as niacinamide, which brightens the skin.

Mineral-rich Waters Water is typically the first ingredient in skin care formulations. Korean skin care brands are increasingly using mineral-rich waters, rather than distilled water, in their products—therefore, the base becomes an active ingredient.

Cremorlab’s innovative products harness the power of thermal water, a rare and mineral-rich water from Geumjin, in South Korea, that helps boost skin’s radiance and hydration. With 300 times more minerals than any other thermal water in the world, the water from this region is considered to be “miracle water,” healing a variety of skin conditions, including atopic dermatitis and allergies.

LAURA ZIV is a creative brand strategist specializing in beauty, fragrance and personal care. Her work spans trend analysis, innovation, ideation and concept development for brands. Ziv has a Master of Arts from Oxford University, and previously worked as a magazine writer and editor for international magazines based in New York.

48 Beauty Innovation Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016

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Strengthening

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INGREDIENTS & CLAIMS

“Perhaps the most sought after effect pigment is a black pearl,” said Kelly Dobos, technical manager of cosmetics at Sun Chemical Performance Pigments, in a press announcement. “However, creating a true black pearl is difficult because the color black is a result of the absence of light while pearlescent pigments require light interference to generate color.”

She explained the company’s SunSHINE Mystic Black (INCI: Synthetic Flourphlogopite; not pictured) is a black pearl effect pigment that overcomes these obstacles and fills a need for cosmetic formulators.

The ingredient is recommended for bold lipsticks, mascara, eyeliners, eye shadows and nail lacquers. It is optimized to achieve a unique combination of jetness, coverage, sparkle and luster. Based on synthetic mica, which provides a soft skin feel and high color purity, the pigment can be easily incorporated into a variety of applications and has broad global regulatory compliance.

Croda has unveiled new data for its anti-pollution ingredient, Cithrol 10GTIS, confirming its efficacy. The material, a mild surfactant for facial oil cleansers, supports the removal of particulate matter from the skin, which can lead to an unclean feeling, perception of blocked pores and increased sensitivity.

Lipotec’s ActiGuard is a sustainable extract obtained from sorghum bran, a by-product of the grain milling, which has calming and antiirritation properties that aids in soothing overly reactive skin.

Ashland has launched its Style Fusion multifunctional styling complexes that offer secondary performance characteristics, such as hair smoothing and wash resistance. The range of polyelectrolyte complexes includes Style Fusion complex 1, which features a microgel structure that attaches to broken fibrils present on split ends and acts as a coupling agent that binds fibrils together.

Sourced from Brazilian biodiversity, Beraca’s bacuri butter (INCI: Platonia Insignis Seed Butter (and) Tocopherol) was developed to meet the demand for youthful, healthy-looking skin. This nourishing ingredient is rich in magnesium, zinc and calcium, and contains vitamins D2, E and K. It increases energy production at the cellular level and delivers deep hydration. The ingredient’s nourishing and energizing properties also are suggested for scalp care products.

In addition to high nutritional value, the bacuri butter is a source of tryptophan amino acid, which, in the presence of light, is metabolized into biologically active compounds such as serotonin. This neurotransmitter is associated with the sense of well-being.

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ShapePer­fection (INCI: Brassica Alba Sprout Extract (and) Capsaicin (and) Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride) is a new lipo-soluble, anti-cellulite ingredient from Mibelle Biochemistry. It is based on a purified extract of organic mustard sprouts combined with natural capsaicin.

How does it work? According to the company, until about five years ago, scientists believed adult fat tissue consisted only of white adipose tissue (WAT), which stores lipids. Human infants also produce brown adipose tissue (BAT), which is programmed to burn lipids as heat via the activation of the UCP1 gene. In the mitochondria, this protein uncouples the energy production chain to create heat.

Unfortun­ately, fat tissue in adults mainly consists of WAT. However, new findings reveal that white adipocytes, upon activation, can transform into brown-like adipocytes. Based on these findings, Mibelle Biochemistry developed its new slimming ingredient.

The two vasodilators in the active—an organic sprout extract from the Brassica alba spicy mustard species, and natural capsaicin from chili peppers—induce the browning of adipocytes. By activating microcir­culation, they fight water retention and “empty” the cells of adipose tissue, converting fat-accumulating adipocytes into cells that actively burn fat.

Eight-week clinical studies showed the active ingredient imparted rapid, significant and visible slimming and anti-cellulite effects. The ingredient is recommended at 1–2% in slimming formulations. It can be formulated in o/w and w/o emulsions, all types of oil-based products and water-free formulations. It is stable at temperatures up to 80°C for short periods.

Green Biologics, Inc., and Acme Hardesty have announced a joint development agreement focused on addressing the sustainability needs within personal care markets by offering 100% bio-based esters to Acme Hardesty’s customers. The companies plan to produce a range of butyl and isopropyl esters using bio-based n-butanol and isopropyl alcohol.

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Alban Muller Amihyal range of hyaluronic acid offers long-lasting hydration, plumping and anti-wrinkle action, and regeneration properties.

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PACKAGING INNOVATIONS Special Edition: Luxe Pack Monaco 2016 The former SGD Perfumery has become Verescence, reflecting the company’s focus on perfumery and cosmetics.

Verescence’s adoption of a new name marks an important milestone in its history and reflects its origins with French prestige.

“It’s an opportunity for us to have a brand reflecting what we are today: a company going through a major transfor­mation process and striving for excellence, an international company using its expertise, diversity and talent for the benefit of its consumers,” said Thomas Riou, CEO. The global glass manufacturer recently presented a number of its latest innovations at Luxe Pack Monaco, including: Mineral Glass (pictured), which is inspired by Murano glass and craftsmanship and features colored waves inside; Metal’In metallic coating for fragrance bottles, which give off an ultraglossy mirror effect; Color’in interior color coating for fragrance bottles, allowing for pearlized, opaque and other effects; The Unbreakable glass-wrapping technology that resists breakage; Fine Art fine engravings; Sculpt’in interior engravings; ultra-premium Xtra Flint Glass; 90% recycled material Neo Infinite Glass; and stock bottles such as the Bowie (for niche fragrance, featuring round-shaped shoulders and an elliptic body).

Among the innovations displayed by WestRock was the Aria Luxe pump dispenser, which has a comfortable landing area for the finger, metallic aesthetics, a locking mechanism and Pure Path technology.

Artoria displayed refillable bottles and pots in ceramic for beauty care products. The packaging has been used by LVMH’s Cha Ling brand. Artoria will recycle damaged items.

Knoll Luxury Packaging was honored at Luxe Pack Monaco for its Estee Edit training and presentation case for Sephora stores. The 4-mm cardboard case housed high-density black foam that held seven products. The box also included a video player in the underside of the hinged lid.

Mega Airless displayed an oval container from its Micro range, which was used for the Visionnaire Yeux Eye On Correction from Lancome.

DieterBakic Enterprises displayed a range of innovations, including the Unity: Softtouch; as the cap is turned, a disc is raised or lowered, releasing or sealing the opening in the cap.

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Texen introduced an airless jar, makeup compact and mini airless containers (pictured) that offer security of product, elegance and customiz­ation.

GEKA presented its new collection, Blaze of Glory, including the curlQUEEN curved brush, which has a stiff core and soft exterior and wedge-shaped fiber tips, as well as the softSECRET molded brush, which is produced using the patented Sandwich process, the beautySTYLIST applicator and precisionLINER eyeliner.

CTL Packaging showed off its ESTube injection-molded plastic tube, with an in-mold label. Shown here is a Dositube with an airless actuator.

HCP presented several new decoration techniques, including Interstellar, Crackle and Prismatic Coating (pictured).

www.GCImagazine.com

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PRODUCTS and SERVICES

showcase

CONTRACT MANUFACTURING

PACKAGING

To reserve space in this section, contact

Kim Jednachowski kjednachowski@allured.com

1-630-344-6054

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6

PACKAGING

SERVICES

Follow us on Twitter @GCI_Magazine

www.GCImagazine.com

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Products and Services Showcase

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AD INDEX The Advertiser Index is provided as an additional service for readers to obtain information on companies and their products. The publisher assumes no liability for omissions or errors.

PAGE

ADVERTISER

PHONE

WEB SITE

Alpha Packaging

1-314-427-4300

www.alphap.com

BASF

1-973-245-6000

www.carecreations.basf.com

Berjé, Inc.

1-973-748-8980

www.berjeinc.com

Bioscreen Testing Services

1-310-214-0043

www.bioscreen.com

Centerchem, Inc.

1-203-822-9800

www.centerchem.com

13

Classic Cosmetics, Inc

1-818-773-9042

www.classiccosmetics.com

29

Coast Southwest, Inc.

1-714-524-2777

www.coastsouthwest.com

27

Diamond Cosmetics

1-954-572-3462

www.diamondcosmetics.com

25

Elé Corporation

1-708-442-9100

www.elecorporation.com

Fenchem Biotek Ltd.

86-2584-572-922

www.fenchem.com

Fusion Packaging

1-214-747-2004

www.fusionpkg.com

51

Lady Burd

1-800-345-3448

www.ladyburd.com

9

Mane USA

1-973-633-5533

www.mane.com

45

MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc.

1-908-688-9009

www.morretec.com

21

Spectra Colors Corp.

1-201-997-0606

www.spectracolors.com

53

Sun Deep Cosmetics, Inc.

1-800-985-2228

www.sundeepinc.com

U.S. Nonwovens Corp.

1-631-952-0100

www.usnonwovens.com

37

Unique Distinctions Inc.

1-877-898-1538

www.uniquedistinctionsinc.com

19

Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.

1-973-465-1200

www.welch-holme-clark.com

41 7 Cover 2 17 Cover 4

3 Cover 3

5

Statement of Ownership, Management and Circulation (Act of August 12, 1970; Section 3685, Title 39, United States Code)

1. Publication title: Global Cosmetic Industry 2. Publication number: 1523-9470 3. Filing date: September 2016 4. Issue frequency: Monthly except Feb. and Aug. 5. Number of issues published annually: 10 6. Annual subscription price: Free 7. Complete mailing address of known office of publication: 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 8. Complete mailing address of headquarters or general business offices of publisher: Same as above 9. Full names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor and managing editor.

Publisher: Jo-El Grossman, Managing Editor: Jeb Gleason-Allured, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188 10. Owner: Allured Business Media, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188; Janet Ludwig, Jeb Gleason-Allured, George Fox 11. Known bondholders, mortgages and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities: None.

12. Tax Status (For completion by nonprofit organizations authorized to mail at special rates.) The purpose, function and nonprofit status of this organization and the exempt status for federal income tax purposes: Not applicable 13. Publication title: Global Cosmetic Industry magazine 14. Issue date for circulation data below: July/August 2016 15. Extent and nature of circulation

Average number of copies each Number of copies of single issue

issue during preceding 12 months published nearest to filing date

a. Total number of copies (net press run): 13,051 14,200

b. Paid and/or Requested circulation: 1. Mailed outside county 9,421 10,029 2. Mailed inside county 0 0 3. Distribution outside the mail 241 458 4. Distribution by other classes mailed through the USPS 0 0

c. Total paid and/or requested distribution 9,662 10,487

d. Nonrequested distribution 1. Outside county 2,822 3,010 2. Inside county 0 0 3. Distribution by other classes mailed through the USPS 0 0 4. Distribution outside the mail 313 500

e. Total nonrequested distribution 3,135 3,510

f. Total distribution 12,797 13,997

g. Copies not distributed 254 203

h. Total 13,051 14,200

i. Percent paid and/or requested circulation 75.5% 74.9% 16. Publication of this Statement of Ownership: Will be printed in the November 2016 issue of this publication.

17. Signature and title of editor, publisher, business manager or owner: Jo-El Grossman, Publisher I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including multiple damages and civil penalties).

56 Ad Index Global Cosmetic Industry | November 2016

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