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2022 holiday catalogue
We are grateful for this year, it allowed us to travel further and see the world again with fresh eyes. At times, it felt like we were living in a great age of discovery. A reflection on a time when one could set out to largely uncharted lands and return with unfamiliar oddities and treasures. While the lands where we ventured were in fact, very well charted, we did return with delightful treasures to share with you.
For every one object featured in the following pages, we viewed, studied, handled, considered, and rejected hundreds and hundreds. We only buy what excites us. These jewels
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reach out and grab your attention. It is an indescribable spark that happens when you look at a certain object. Often an object that is a product of a skill and style that no longer exists. Something that was so special, so precious that it was taken care of and passed along to a descendant that felt the same way, then it happened again, and again several generations over... until now. Here it is, it is not at the MET or The V&A Museum, but in your own hand, to see and wear and enjoy and perhaps understand the invisible path that leads from there to here.
Enjoy the quiet beauty of the following pages. Our hope is it transports you to a place of curiosity and contemplation about the world around you.
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No. 1 victorian era carved
shell earrings
Large in scale, these gilded repousse earrings are light in weight. Two elaborate naturalist bird motifs are carved in shell set in gilded metal. English in origin. Circa 1870.
$2,650
No. 2 victorian era
butterfly brooch
Unusual 19th Century Shell brooch, in 18k gold. Natural clam shells form the wings, beautifully rendered and realistic gold body, with pearl details and ruby eyes. English in origin. Circa 1880.
$2,200
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3 georgian era topaz cannetille pendant
Beautiful cruciform pendant with bright topaz and turquoise stones. Intricate gold work in a high carat gold. Convertible from pendant into a brooch. English in origin. Circa 1830. $6,350
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No. 4 victorian era ram’s head bangle bracelet
Exquisite Etruscan revival bracelet with intricate granulated gold work in 18k gold. In ancient culture, the ram figures prominently as a metaphor for strength and courage. English in origin. Circa 1870. $4,980
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No. 5 victorian era gold trefoil locket
Fine oversized 18k gold locket. Lovely soft patina with Persian turquoise details. English in origin. Circa 1870. $3,350
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No. 6 victorian era rock crystal starburst pendant
A large bright faceted quartz crystal stone holds an 18k gold, natural pearl and Persian turquoise starburst. English in origin. Circa 1870. $3,350
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No. 7 victorian era agate specimen bracelet
Bold bracelet with variegated agate stones. Crafted in 15ct gold. Stones for jewelry such as this were typically sourced in Scotland. English in origin. Circa 1860.
$3,950
No. 8 victorian era coral serpent bracelet
An enchanting sea serpent wraps freely around the wrist, allowing for varied wrist size. Comprised of hand carved Mediterranean coral beads. Found in London. Circa 1830.
$1,950
No. 9 19th century gold and enamel earrings
Victorian era earrings with a strong modernist motif. 18k gold with black enamel details. Continental in origin. Circa 1870. $4,350
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10 victorian era onyx earrings
Intricate details with onyx stones, black enamel and 18k gold. These earrings have amazing movement when worn. English in origin. Circa 1870. $5,500
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No. 11 georgian era agate specimen necklace
Early 19th century agate specimens are set in 15ct and 9ct gold. Longer than a typical period piece, the necklace is comprised of a collection of Scottish agate elements from various necklaces. Includes an additional detachable pear-shaped drop. English in origin. Circa 1830. $6,250
No. 12 victorian era five stone diamond ring
Fine multi-stone ring with five bright old mine cut diamonds, set in 18k gold. Approximately 3 carats in total diamond weight, the stones range in from H to I color, and VS1 to SI in clarity. Englishin origin. Circa 1890. $19,850
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No. 13 vintage gold surrealist bracelet
Striking 18k gold bracelet with a dripping motif. Signed by an Italian Maker. Mid 20th century. $9,980
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No. 14 vintage diamond bombé ring
Fabulous retro era cocktail ring in 18k gold. A mixture of old mine, old European and brilliant cut diamonds, approximately 5.25 carats in total diamond weight. The primary diamond is approximately 1.25 carats, qualities range from H to J color and VS to SI in clarity. American in origin. Circa 1945. $16,850
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No. 15 19th century twist bangle
Sculptural twisted design with masterful invisible hinged mechanism. Richly patinated 18k gold. German in origin. $5,850
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No. 16 vintage diamond squiggle ring
Over 100 round brilliant cut diamonds set in platinum with 18k yellow gold ribbon details. Approximately 3 carats in total diamond weight. Size 5.75 $6,850
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Vintage ladies watch with elegant ellipse shape set with diamonds. Deployant buckle, comes with multiple straps. Signed Cartier Paris, 18k gold, serial #866048 0418 $12,600
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17 vintage cartier baignoire watch
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No. 18 vintage panthère de cartier 1925 watch
From Cartier’s figurative collection a chic 18k gold ladies watch. Black alligator strap. Serial #2325 00293673 $9,650
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No. 19 vintage cartier maillon panthère ring
Part of Cartier’s iconic Panthère collection. The wide band is designed as interlocking brick-work links pave-set with 75 round brilliant cut diamonds with an approximately 1.30 carats in total weight. 18k gold. Size 6. $8,600
No. 20 vintage cartier diamond ring
Chunky gold band with single flush set diamond. 18k gold with a single .25 carat brilliant cut diamond, G color and VS clarity. Size 5.25. Signed Cartier. $3,900
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No. 21 vintage amethyst bracelet
Finely crafted large scale “gas pipe” bracelet with a deeply colored amethyst stone surrounded by repousse work set with ruby cabochons and pearls, in 18k gold. Circa 1970. $16,500
No. 22 georgian era court necklace
Bold colors in chrysoprase and pink sapphire, set in high carat gold cannetille work. Necklaces like this were designed to complement a particular lady’s court dress. At that time it would have been paired with matching earrings, bracelet and additional drops which have been lost with time. English in origin. Circa 1820. $6,800
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No. 23 victorian era five stone diamond ring
A very fine, large scale half hoop ring, set in silver topped gold features five high-crowned old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 4 carats in total weight. Diamond quality ranges from I to K color and VS1 to SI1 in clarity. Size 7.5. English in origin. Circa 1860. $26,750
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No. 24 georgian era amethyst paste necklace
Foil backed paste stones in an unusually long example at nearly 17 inches, set in gilded metal. English in origin. Circa 1820. $5,300
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No. 25 19th century old mine cut diamond earrings
Bright old mine cut diamonds set in silver topped gold cutdown settings. The primary stones weigh approximately 1.2 carats each, with an additional 1 carat in total weight in the diamond surrounds. Diamond quality ranges from K to L color, and SI2 in clarity, Likely originally links in a diamond riviere necklace and later converted into studs. English in origin. Approximately 3.4 carats total weight. Circa 1860. $21,750
No. 26 early 20th century diamond cluster earrings
Antique diamond cluster earrings, set in oxidized gold. The primary stones weigh approximately 1.3 carats. Each stone is surrounded by 10 additional old mine cut diamonds, weighing approximately 2 carats in total weight. Qualities range from J-K color and Vs2-si1 clarity. Approx. 4.6 carats in total weight. Circa 1900. $24,750
No. 27
georgian era citrine and diamond earrings
Old mine cut diamonds surround a rich golden citrine stone, set in silver on gold closed-back settings. Originally made from a larger piece of jewelry and later converted into earrings. English in origin. Circa 1820. $4,400
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COLLECTORS CLUB
No other category of jewel compares to rings for their symbolism and significance. A ring can represent a promise of eternal love, a mark of power or a simple token of remembrance. Our antique rings here have survived wars, accompanied love and allowed their bearers to mark time and celebration with a treasured object that can hold a memory.
ring box
House your own curated collection in this stunning ring collection case. Small enough to travel and perfect for the safe. The three rows can easily store 9 rings and more depending on size. Handmade in navy lambskin, blue silk and velvet interior with a brass closure. Made in Italy. $650
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No. 28 18th century multi-stone giardinetti ring
A ‘little garden’ ring with sapphires, rubies and rose cut diamonds, in silver and gold. Giardinetti rings have an airy floral motif, resembling flowers or an arrangement in a vase. English in origin. Circa 1760. $4,920
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No. 29 georgian era garnet and diamond ring 18th century garnet ring with rose cut diamond side stones in the form of flowers that transform into a vine making up the band. English in origin. Circa 1780. $3,850
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No. 30 georgian era citrine and diamond ring
A large scale cluster ring with a bright citrine stone surrounded by a mix of rose cut and table cut diamonds in closed back silver and gold settings. English in origin. Circa 1800. $5,250
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No. 31 georgian era diamond half-hoop ring
A warm dark sparkle in seven graduated old mine cut diamonds. The stones are set in silver on gold cutdown settings. English in Origin. Circa 1820. $4,875
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No. 32 victorian era rock crystal horseshoe necklace
A bold convertible necklace. The pendants are removable allowing the chain to be worn simply on its own or allowing each pendant to be worn separately. The quartz crystal domes are set with emerald and ruby horseshoes with additional pearl accents. English in origin. Circa 1870. $14,500
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No. 33 victorian era ruby
No. 34
horseshoe pendant
Twelve bright red old cut rubies are surrounded by rose cut diamonds in 18k gold. English in origin. Circa 1880. $5,300
No. 34 victorian era ruby crescent moon pendant
The crescent moon represents the alluring promise of a beginning wherever there is an end and the promise of more light to come. This is a rare example in ruby with additional old mine cut diamond details set in silver on 18k gold. English in origin. Circa 1880. $5,450
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No. 35 victorian era diamond starburst necklace
This fine starburst is convertible allowing it to be worn as a brooch or pendant. Old mine cut diamonds weighing approx 4 carats in total weight. Set in silver on gold settings. Hanging on a 16.50” antique rose gold chain. English in origin. Circa 1870. $12,500
No. 36 victorian era emerald & diamond necklace
Bright emeralds in a quatrefoil design with old mine and rose cut diamonds. Fine workmanship in silver topped gold settings. Hanging on a 16.50” antique rose gold chain. English in origin. Circa 1880. $5,100
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BERLIN IRON JEWELRY
This rare category of jewel was a result of the wartime climates in Europe over 200 years ago. The enduring appeal is in the contrast of the hard and dark material executed in airy light forms intricate as lace. Black lacquered cast iron jewelry was first developed in Prus sia in the late 1790s. By 1804 its manufacture flourished in Berlin. However, it was not until the Napoleonic wars it became the symbol of Prussian patriotism and resistance to Napoleon. In 1812, the ousted Prussian government asked its wealthy to contribute their precious jewelry to their country and in exchange, they received iron jewels inscribed, “Gold gab ich für Eisen,” meaning I gave gold for iron. While the jewels were made in great quantities at the time, they were not cherished like gold and gemstone jewels and were largely lost to rust. A fine example in top condition is a rare find.
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No. 37 berlin iron necklace
Early Berlin iron necklace with mirrored plaques of classical figures. German in origin. Circa 1805. $11,600
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No. 38 berlin iron ‘balloon’ earrings
Balloon shaped Berlin iron earrings, light in weight. German in origin. Circa 1805. $4,550
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No. 39 berlin iron torpedo drop earrings
A gothic pattern in elongated, oversized torpedo shapes. German in origin. Circa 1820. $4,950
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No. 41 No. 40
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THE COLOR OF PARADISE
For the Mughals, Ottomans, and Persians green was the color of Paradise. The ancient Egyptians also regarded the emerald as being mystical and magical, with its deep green color unlike the green of anything else known to them. Within the green shades of emerald there can be worlds of difference. What is considered the finest green, which is seen in stones from two specific mines in Columbia, is called ‘old mine’ green. Hundreds of years ago, the stones were pulled from the earth and sent all over the world by the Spaniards. The best mines in Colombia were abandoned in 1895. It is said, none of the recently mined emeralds from Colombia can compare in the depth of color to that of the “old mine’ stones.
No. 40 bell & bird emerald pendant necklace
A 2.07 carat emerald set in a crisp bezel setting in rich yellow 22k gold. The stone is certified to be of Brazilian origin. Hanging on a 16” 22k gold chain. This stone is certified to be of Brazilian origin. $12,550
No. 41 antique cushion cut emerald pendant necklace
This emerald was sourced from a Belle Epoque brooch. In that jewel, the stone was surrounded by elaborate curving and twisting lines of diamonds. The original 18k gold prong setting has been preserved and it now exists as a simple pendant necklace. Weighing approximately 2.30 carats, the stone is certified as Columbian in origin with “insignificant to no” clarity enhancement. Hanging on an antique 16” 15k gold chain. Alternatively, this stone can be commissioned for ring design. Circa 1890. $30,000
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No. 42 art deco emerald and old european cut diamond ring
Striking Belle Epoque emerald and diamond ring. The emerald is estimated to be 2.5 carats and certified to be of Columbian origin with minor traditional treatment. The filigree setting is finely executed with two old European cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.5 carats combined, surrounded by additional single cut stones. Circa 1910. $65,000
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No. 43 art deco diamond bracelet
A platinum bracelet featuring ten primary old European cut stones and dozens of additional smaller stones. The largest diamond is approximately 1 carat. The estimated total weight is 13 carats. Qualities range from I to J in color and SI to SI2 in clarity. Circa 1930. $36,000
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No. 44 art deco rose cut diamond necklace
Twin rose cut diamonds drop from a central ellipse, in platinum. The two high domed rose cut diamonds are approximately 2+ carats each. Approximate total weight 4.5 carats. Circa 1920. $55,000
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No. 45 early 20th century
old mine cut diamond earrings
Set in platinum, the primary stones are old mine cut diamond stones weighing approximately 1.75 carats each. The qualities range from I to J in color and I1 and SI2 in clarity. Two additional old European cut diamonds weigh approximately .35 carats each. In total the earrings weigh approximately 4.20 carats. Circa 1920. $19,500
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No. 46 retro diamond ring by pierre sterlé
Pierre Sterlé was a sought-after Parisian jewelry designer of the mid20th century. In 1943 he opened his upstairs atelier in Paris near the Place Vendôme. As such, his name is not as widely known as some of his contemporaries. Sterlé’s diamond and platinum jewels are a triumph of design and engineering, with enchanting ribbons of diamonds. An intriguing asymmetry gives his jewels a sense of movement and the difficult-to-achieve combination of glamour and ease.
This ring is a bold example of his platinum and diamond work. The central Emerald cut stone is estimated at 2.3 carats with matching stones of approximately 1.3 carats each. The quality of all stones is estimated from E-F color and VVS1-VVS2 in clarity. They are set within a swirling collection of additional diamonds in mixed baguette and old european cuts estimated to weigh 3.7 carats combined. Total diamond weight for the entire ring is estimated at over 5 carats. French in origin, Circa 1946. $52,500
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No. 47 mid century diamond rivière necklace
A beautiful fluid line of diamonds estimated at 13cts in total weight. Seventynine mixed cut stones including, old mine, old european, transitional and early round brilliant cuts are set in platinum elliptical settings. Circa 1950. $34,600
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No. 48 antique old european cut diamond earrings
Beautiful matched old European cut diamonds in silver topped 14k gold cutdown settings with lever backs. The primary stones weigh 2.22 carats and 2.05 carats. Both stones are certified to be J color with quality ranging from VS2 - SI1 in clarity. Two additional old European cut diamonds combine to an approximate total weight of 4.37 carats. Hallmarks indicate an AustoHungarian origin. Circa 1900. $49,850
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BELL BIRD DESIGNS
Aclassical jeweler has a mental archive that can be called up at will. Within their library there might be basic techniques taught in formal training, but much more important will be tricks of the trade picked up by watching others at work and ideas collected from handling finished objects. Above all, the material itself will have taught the jeweler many lessons. The way a tool bites or glides off a surface, the length of time it takes for the polishing wheel to achieve the desired result, the angle of a prong and how a finished jewel curves around a person’s body. All of these insights are built up gradually. The learning happens by feel and the treasury of a maker’s tricks hover below the level of active consciousness. Even so, it is absolutely intrinsic to the craft. Using these skills and thoughtfully curated materials, our team of specialists are able to produce one of a kind jewels with the same characteristics and quality of our collected pieces. We believe the more well made an item is, the more care has gone into it, the more likely it is to persist. Ideally it will last a whole lifetime and like our antiques, get handed down from one generation to the next.
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bell & bird old mine cut diamond snake ring
This ring was inspired by Victorian era snake rings emblematic of eternal love. A central antique old mine cut diamond in the head along diamond eyes. The antique pear shaped diamond weighs 0.30 carats with an approximate I color and vs clarity. The undulating form of the ring is entirely hand fabricated and no two will be exactly alike. $4,850
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No. 51 bell & bird sapphire and diamond three stone ring
A classic three-stone ring with a cushion shaped sapphire flanked by two antique old European cut diamonds. The primary stone is 4.51 carats in a crisp cornflower blue, certified natural, of Ceylon origin with no heat treatment to enhance color and clarity. The diamonds weigh 1.13 carats in total weight, H color, and VS clarity. Handmade in our 18k old gold. $23,500
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No. 50 bell & bird old emerald cut diamond ring
This clean crisp design is hand fabricated in our 18k old gold. The central emerald cut diamond is set with six sharp prongs with bezel set side stones. The ring is finished with a visually- slight hand filed knife edge band. The primary diamond is certified to be 2.01 carats with a quality of H color, and VS1 clarity. The side stones are step-cut trapezoid diamonds weighing .54 carats in total weight. $29,750
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No. 52 bell & bird old european cut and baguette diamond ring
A signature Bell and Bird design. A central old European cut diamond in a crisp four-prong setting with bezel set vertical baguettes. This ring features an antique old European cut diamond of 2.21 carats, certified to be I color, and VS2 clarity. The two baguettes are .26 carats in combined weight. Hand crafted in our 18k old gold. $29,750
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No. 53 bell & bird cushion and pear shaped diamond three-stone ring
A unique form three-stone ring with a cushion shaped old mine cut diamond and two pear shaped diamonds. Handcrafted in our 18k old gold. This oneof-a-kind ring features a central, 2.31 carat diamond with a wide spread face, GIA certified, G color and SI1 clarity. The two pear shaped diamonds weigh 1.42 carat in additional weight for a total of 3.73 carats. $38,500
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No. 54 bell & bird sapphire and old mine cut diamond three stone ring
A classic three stone diamond ring set in platinum, featuring a slim band. The 2.82 carat center stone is certified as an ideal “Royal Blue” natural sapphire of Ceylon origin with no heat treatment to improve color and clarity. Flanked by two antique old mine cut diamonds weighing over 2.82 carats combined. Both are certified by the GIA to be 1.45 carats, G color and SI1 clarity and 1.37 carats, H color, VS2 clarity. $42,500
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Our silver-on-gold work is inspired by a laborintensive setting style common in 18th and 19th century. The execution is true to the rings that inspired this design. It is rarely seen in modern jewelry and one of our signature techniques. Each ring features a unique collection of slightly graduated antique diamonds salvaged from démodé antique pieces. It often takes months to collect a carefully matched suite of stones for one ring.
No. 55 bell & bird old european cut diamond earrings
The antique old European cut diamonds are approximately 1.6 carats in combined total weight, quality ranges from K to L color, and SI in clarity. 18k gold locking backs. $7,200
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No. 56 bell & bird signature cutaway 4 carat eternity band
This ring features sixteen turn-of-the-century, antique old European cut diamonds totaling 4.41 carats in total weight, approximate quality ranging from H to J color, VS to SI clarity. Size 6.25. $17,900
No. 57 bell & bird signature cutaway 2 carat half hoop band
This ring features eleven 19th century antique old mine cut diamonds, over 2 carats in total diamond weight, approximate quality ranges from H to J color and VS to SI clarity. $9,750
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BELL BIRD DIAMOND POISSARDE EARRINGS
This design is inspired by 18th century poissarde earrings. Which were elongated oval hoops, with S- shaped braces and back-tofront ear hooks. This style was asso ciated with the fishermen wives of Paris, who also played a significant role during the French Revolution.
A pair of poissarde earrings set with citrines dating to the early 19th Century.
Earrings: From Antiquity to the Present, by Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi
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No. 58 bell & bird diamond poissarde earrings
Our modern interpretation contains approximately 4.50 carats in total diamond weight. The antique marquise cut diamonds are set horizontally, following the arch of a curve. Entirely hand fabricated, the stones are set in 18k gold in our signature cutaway settings. The hinged backs are carefully engineered to counterbalance the weight of the diamonds and hang perfectly. $32,000
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No. 59 bell & bird 8.8 carat cushion cut diamond ring
A stunning 8.82 carat cushion cut diamond ring. Set in a sharp and simple Bell and Bird platinum setting. This distinctive stone can be enjoyed in its current unembellished setting or commission us to create a personalized creation. GIA certified, G color, VVS2 clarity.
PRICE UPON REQUEST
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We recently ventured into one of our dearest collector’s “Parts and Parts Room,” a cabinet of curiosities, a room of wonder that holds a vast collection of naturalia. We featured some of her treasures here, as a reminder of the natural source of the jewel’s raw materials. Precious metals that come from the earth are alloyed and forged, stones are shaped and faceted. Together those simple materials transform into the beautiful jewels that hold deep wellsprings of meaning.
We are delighted to offer this curated collection of gifts that can be appreciated year after year and ultimately cherished by the next generation. If you have interest in a piece or have any questions please contact us by email at info@bellandbird. com or by phone (512) 407-8206.
Wishing you happy holidays and a wonderful New Year.
Bell & Bird
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Special
the
loaning naturalia
our
sharing her
Creative Direction
Photography:
Art Direction: Leah
Meltzer Stylist: Ansley
Model: Kat
Graphic Design:
Studio
thanks to
Cocke Collection for
and
equine friend Coco for
quiet beauty.
&
Sarah Murphy
Pipes
Burnette
Horstmann
Cedar Shake
