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e are hopeful for the approaching fall season and reflect on the changes over the past many months. Time continues to move at a welcomed slower pace, allowing us to dive deeper into creative interests. On one of our too few trips away from home, we stumbled across a decades-old auction catalog of mammoth proportions.
The sale was legendary; the remaining private contents of a Paris home belonging to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. The sale included over 3000 lots, forty thousand items sold over the course of 9-days. The sale offered opportunities for collectors in almost every sphere, including paintings, drawings, prints, furniture, ceramics, carpets, textiles, silver, books, photographs, as well as the personal wardrobes of the Duke and Duchess. The items include virtually every possession inherited or collected by the Windsors during their long and eventful lives. It was not jewelry, but paintings that caught our eye, specifically a collection of
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work by an obscure French artist, Fernand Renard (1912-1990). His captivating stilllife paintings inspired the photographs in the following pages. The lives of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor have passed into folklore. The story of a King who gave up his empire for love remains fascinating 85 years after King Edward VIII signed away his inheritance to marry Wallis Simpson. The influence of the Windsor’s is still felt in fashion, collecting, interior decor, and so many aspects of style and design. We enjoyed perusing this extensive catalog during the quiet times over the past year. It reminded us that collections have tremendous narrative power. Every object can tell a story. The jewels pictured here also have personal stories. While most have become a mystery over the many years since their creation, they still resonate with the intimacy and value bestowed upon them when they first were held. Look them over and consider what their next chapter will be.
The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Sotheby’s Sale 7000, September 11-19, 1997.
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No. 1 1 9 t h c e n t u r y b u t t e r f l y b r o o c h A fine early Victorian era citrine, amethyst and garnet brooch, set in 18k gold. In the 19th century, butterflies were considered symbolic of a human soul. English in origin. Circa 1840. $3,450
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No. 2 1 9 t h c e n t u r y d i a m o n d s n a k e b r a c e l e t Victorian era bracelet in beautifully patinated 14k gold. The head is set with 5 rose cut diamonds with further diamonds encircling the neck. The snake is a popular 19th century symbol of eternal love. English in origin. Circa 1870. $8,600
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No. 3
No. 4
No. 3 l a t e 1 9 t h c e n t u r y g a r n e t s n a k e e a r r i n g s Late Victorian era earrings, each with a snake encircling a garnet cabochon. Likely a later conversion from cufflinks or buttons, set in 15k gold. English in origin. Circa 1890. $2,450 No.4 1 9 t h c e n t u r y t u r q u o i s e s n a k e r i n g Classic Victorian era ring representing eternal love. The 18k gold snake wraps around the finger with a Persian Turquoise head. English in origin. Circa 1860. $2,650
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No. 5 r u b y a n d d i a m o n d t h r e e s t o n e r i n g Vintage platinum ring with a non-heated Burmese Ruby and two round brilliant cut diamonds. Circa 1950. PR I CE O N R EQ U E S T
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No. 6 e d w a r d i a n e r a d i a m o n d c h o k e r & h e a d p i e c e Early 20th Century interchangeable headpiece and choker necklace. Intricate platinum lattice work of the finest craftsmanship. Approximately 6 carats of old European cut diamonds. English in origin. Circa 1910. $18,500
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No. 7
No. 8
No. 7 t i f f a n y & c o m p a n y e m e r a l d c u t d i a m o n d r i n g Classic three stone platinum ring by Tiffany & Co. The central diamond weighs 2 carats. Two matched side stones weigh an additional 2 carats in total weight. All stones are I color vvs2 clarity. $32,500 No. 8 t i f f a n y a n d c o m p a n y d i a m o n d t h r e e s t o n e r i n g Simple beautiful design in platinum by Tiffany and Co. The central 2.25 carat emerald cut diamond is E color and VS1 clarity. Flanked by two matched trilliant shaped side stones. $38,500
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No. 9
No. 10
No. 9 s i g n a t u r e b e l l a n d b i r d c u t a w a y e t e r n i t y b a n d Featuring 11 antique old European cut diamonds totaling 3.4 carats. Set in our 18k ‘old’ gold. The inspiration for this signature B&B design is the labor-intensive cut-down setting technique common in 18th and 19th-century diamond jewelry. The production of these rings can take many months of collecting antique stones. Each stone must match in color, clarity, and size. Size 6.25. $15,500 No. 10 b e l l a n d b i r d “ t a b l e c u t ” d i a m o n d r i n g Inspired by table-cut diamond rings dating to the Renaissance, this ring features a .56 carat old mine cut diamond set in a sharp-edged hand-filed bezel design. Set in 18k yellow gold. $4,950
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No. 11 s i g n a t u r e b e l l a n d b i r d c u t a w a y h a l f - h o o p b a n d Featuring 9 antique old mine cut diamonds totaling 1.75 carats. Set in our 18k ‘old’ gold. The inspiration for this signature B&B design is the labor-intensive cut-down setting technique common in 18th and 19th-century diamond jewelry. The production of these rings takes many months of collecting antique stones as each stone must match in color, clarity, and size. $7,500
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No. 12 b e l l a n d b i r d r u b y a n d d i a m o n d r i n g Three stone ring featuring a central 2.02 carat ruby of Thai origin. The side stones are a matched set of oval-cut diamonds weighing over 2.25 carats in total weight. Hand fabricated in our 18k ‘old’ gold. The inspiration for this tab-prong design was a small detail on a fine Art Deco era ring that once passed through our hands. $29,000
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No. 13 1 9 t h c e n t u r y g e m s t o n e f r o g b r o o c h A late Victorian era novelty brooch with rose cut diamonds and rare Russian demantoid garnets. Set in silver-topped 15k rose gold. Mining of Russian demantoids ceased for many years during the Revolution of 1917 through several years post WWII, causing pieces like this to be quite rare. English in origin. Circa 1890. $4,800
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No. 14 1 9 t h c e n t u r y o n y x b u m b l e b e e l o c k e t A Victorian era locket formed in onyx with a bumblebee set with old mine cut and rose cut diamonds, a pearl body, and ruby eyes. Verso contains the original glass photograph panel. English in origin, Circa 1870. $4,250
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No. 15 1 9 t h c e n t u r y d i a m o n d r i v i è r e n e c k l a c e An exceptional Victorian era necklace containing 58 bright old mine cut diamonds set in silver-topped gold cut-down settings with over 35 carats in estimated total diamond weight. The center four stones can be removed to adjust the length of the necklace. Additionally, the largest stone has a fitting allowing it to be worn as a solitaire pendant. This classic form of necklace earned its name for resembling the glittering lights on the French Cote d’Azur. English in origin. Circa 1860. PR I CE O N R EQ U E S T
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No. 16
No. 17
No. 16 e d w a r d i a n e r a o l d m i n e c u t d i a m o n d r i n g 20th Century ring with beautiful piercing work in platinum. The central stone is approximately 1.35 carats, with additional single-cut diamonds set into the filigree work. Continental European in origin. Circa 1910. $10,250 No. 17 e d w a r d i a n e r a d i a m o n d b r a c e l e t Early 20th Century bracelet with a superb undulating design holding 117 old European cut diamonds weighing over 17 carats. Set in platinum. The workmanship is of the highest quality. Circa 1910. PR I CE O N R EQ U E S T
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No. 18 r e t r o d i a m o n d r i n g A rare set of matched old mine cut diamond pear-shaped stones anchor the bold design of this platinum ring. This classic Retro motif dates to the mid-20th century, post-WWII. The pear-shaped stones make up over 6.5 carats. The ring’s total diamond weight is estimated over 8 carats with the additional round brilliant and baguette-cut stones. American in origin. Circa 1945. PR I CE O N R EQ U E S T
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e hope you enjoyed perusing the beautiful pieces we have collected. Our hope is they are destined to be enjoyed year after year and ultimately treasured by the next generation. If you are interested in a piece or would like further information please contact us by email at info@bellandbird.com or by phone 512-407-8206. – Bell & Bird
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F R O N T C OV E R I M AG E From The Duke & Dutches of Windsor, Catalogue, Sotheby’s, 1997. Still Life With Bowl Of Cherries and Upside Down Glass. Fernand Renard (French, b. 1912) PHOTOGR APH Y Sarah Murphy A R T D I R EC T I O N Leah Pipes Meltzer