In the pages of our 2024 catalogue we are embracing the spirit of our namesakes, Gertrude Bell, and Isabella Bird, and observing another captivating 19th-century woman, Anna Atkins. Born in 1799, she was a renowned botanist and photographer. She is celebrated as the first woman ever to create a photograph. A process considered easy today was once highly complicated and required a great depth of technical and scientific knowledge. Her use of Cyanotypes in the 1843 book “British Algae” was an achievement as the first book ever to be illustrated with photography. It is her use of Cyanotypes that inspired this year’s catalogue imagery. The simplicity of the resulting photographs allows the observer to experience a different view of the beautiful jewels we are offering you.
Every day, we search, find, and collect pieces from the past. Allowing the unique privilege to live in a parallel world, creating our new jewels with the sensibility of the old. We invite you to look through these pages with one foot in the present and the other in the past.
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No. 1 victorian era long etruscan revival earrings
15k Gold earrings with a well-preserved bloomed finish. A wellmade example featuring Etruscan details and several moving elements. Lightweight and easy to wear. England, circa 1870. $4,350
No. 2 victorian era etruscan revival gold locket
This 18k gold locket is in wonderful condition, with a restrained design for the period. The original glass and frame are intact and ready for your own photographs. The locket has acquired a lovely dark patina over the years. England, circa 1870. $2,650
No. 3 victorian era granulated locket
Intricate granulation details cover the front of this 18k gold locket. A classic Etruscan period technique, this locket also features "From Mother, Sept. 23 1879" hand engraved on verso. Original frames and glass are intact. The locket has a lovely dark patina, highlighting the details. England, circa 1870.
$2,850
No. 4 19th century emerald and diamond earrings
Floral motifs with gemstone details in a classical design in 18k gold. Seed pearls, and old mine cut diamonds accent the emerald stones. Continental European, circa 1870. $4,250
No. 5 victorian era etruscan revival earrings
There is a deep patina on these 15k gold earrings. Lightweight with swinging elements allowing for easy movement. Great for regular wear. England, circa 1870. $3,950
The revival of Etruscan jewelry in the Victorian era was sparked by archaeological discoveries in the early 19th century. The historical finds of the Etruscan civilization emerged on the coast of Italy, where ancient Etruscan tombs were discovered, containing intricate jewelry made of high-karat gold, unlike anything that had been seen before. These discoveries inspired Victorian jewelers to replicate Etruscan jewelry's intricate designs and techniques. The style captured the essence of the ancient world while fitting perfectly into the opulent and eclectic Victorian aesthetic. The design influence endured for decades from the 1850’s through the 1880’s. The length of the sustained popularity contributes to the number of good examples that can still be found today.
No. 6 victorian era granulated bead necklace
Intricate 18k gold beads with granulation details are strung on a woven gold chain. All original condition in the Etruscan revival style. England, circa 1870. $3,450
A personalized detail with an inscription dating to 1900 reveals this bracelet to be much older than its design seems. "From Grandma 9-2-1900.” The 18k gold has a bloomed finish and is in excellent condition. England, circa 1900.
$4,650
A lightweight wearable pair of earrings in a neo-classical motif. The many independently moving parts provide great movement. England, circa 1870.
$4,250
No. 9 victorian era turquoise and diamond necklace
A rare example of an elaborate 19th-century collar necklace. Natural Persian turquoise stones are cut in the shapes of amphoras, with rose-cut diamonds set at the sharp tip of every setting. 18k gold. England, circa 1860.
$15,500
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Fine topaz stones in pale golden tones are set in 18k gold collet settings and preserved in the original 19th-century fitted box. England, circa 1870.
$23,600
Large, deep purple amethyst stones are set in classic gold collet settings. A fine example, each stone is a slightly different proportion. England, circa 1860.
$13,800
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No. 12 antique emerald snake pin
A bold figural piece with over 5 carats of bright green emeralds. The snake pattern is executed with seven graduated emeralds, striped with sixteen old European cut diamonds. Complete with a split tongue detail. Crafted in 18k yellow gold with a hinged clip/pin attachment, allowing the piece to be worn on fabric or as a hair ornament. Continental Europe, circa 1900. $14,750
No. 13 early 20th century emerald and diamond snake ring
Two snakes are entwined in a symbol of eternal love. One snake is set with a vibrant step-cut emerald of approximately .75 carats. The second snake is set with old European cut diamonds totaling approximately .4 carats. Engraved details further detail the scales and eyes in 18k gold. Size 7, sizeable. Continental Europe, circa 1900. $5,950
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No. 14 19th century swiss enamel coiled snake ring
A rare example of an elaborately engraved and enameled snake ring. Crafted in 18k gold, the ring has red, black, white, and blue enamels in varied scale patterns. Some enamel has been lost with time. Size 9, limited sizing options. Continental Europe, circa 1840. $3,950
No. 15 victorian era yellow old mine cut diamond snake ring
A pale yellow pear-shaped diamond is set at the head of this coiled serpent ring. The diamond weighs approximately .35 carats. Additional details include ruby eyes. Size 12, sizable. England, circa 1880. $6,450
No. 16 19th century citrine repoussé day and night earrings
Delicate repoussé bows surround large citrine stones. An unusual pair of earrings in an abstract variation of a pendeloque shape. The elaborate drops can be removed, allowing the tops to be worn in reduced form. Continental Europe, circa 1830. $5,850
No. 17 19th century rose cut diamond and pearl bracelet
Approximately three carats of rose-cut diamonds are set in silver cut-away settings. The twenty diamonds flank a single natural pearl. The stones taper into a knife-edge detail in 18k rose gold. Continental Europe, circa 1860.
$9,850
No. 18 early 20th century cobra bracelet
Depicting the winged snake goddess Wadjet, this Egyptian revival motif showcases a single pearl with gold and platinum details. A common motif seen in tombs from the Valley of the Kings, Wadjet represents wisdom and guidance. The bangle bracelet has a reeded detail in patinated 14k gold. Continental Europe, circa 1860. $3,650
No. 19 georgian era pearl half hoop ring
A lovely early 19th century band in 15k gold. Seven natural split-pearls are set in gold cutaway settings. Rings like these were often presented as betrothal gifts, with pearls representing purity and love. Size 6.5, limited sizing options. England, circa 1830. $1,950
20 antique pearl cluster ring
Turn of the century 18k gold and pearl ring with bold cluster design. Bright yellow gold and white cultured pearls. Size 6.75, sizeable. America, circa 1920.
$1,350
No. 21 belle epoqu é pearl and diamond ring
A beautifully made platinum and 18k gold ring. A single bright white round pearl is set between an unusual asymmetric arrangement of eight rose-cut diamonds, three on one side and five on the other. Two additional old minecut diamonds flank the central stone. Size 5.5, limited sizing options. France, circa 1900. $3,950
22 victorian era black enamel bangle set
In the 19th century, the Lily of the Valley motif was a common mourning motif that symbolized a return to happiness. This is a nicely preserved set of 14k gold bracelets with black enamel, pearls and delicate engraving. They are small in size, measuring 5.25 inches in circumference. American, circa 1870. $7,450
No. 24 victorian era
No. 23 19th Century Diamond Butterfly Locket
The butterfly was a common motif in 19th-century jewelry, often representing the beauty of transformation or new beginnings. This locket is made from a carved onyx stone with a glass compartment on verso with 15k gold details. The butterfly is set with old mine-cut diamonds and garnets for eyes. England, circa 1870.
$8,200
black enamel and pearl starburst
locket
A bold black enamel locket with a pearl starburst motif. The locket is crafted in 18k gold. It opens to reveal two compartments for photographs or keepsakes. England, circa 1870.
$2,650
No. 25 belle époque
bumblebee brooch
Naturalistic details are masterfully crafted in diamonds, agate, enamel, and 18k gold. Antique rose-cut and old minecut diamonds make up the wings and body. Bumblebees are frequently seen in jewelry and decorative arts, representing hard work and diligence. France, circa 1900.
$12,750
No. 26 georgian era table cut diamond hoop earrings
A rare example of 18th-century table cut stones set in silver on gold cutaway settings. The unusual form is similar to French poissarde earring designs. The original ‘wig hook’ detail counterbalances the diamonds' weight set on the hoop's front side. Beautiful dark patina to the foil-backed settings. Light and delicate earrings. Typical to the period, back-to-front fittings. England, circa 1780. $12,500
No. 27 18th century rose cut
diamond tear necklace
A beautifully sentimental object, the tear is formed in natural seed pearls and four rose-cut diamonds. Originally a small brooch, it was later converted into a pendant. It hangs on a sixteen-inch 18k gold micro-belcher chain from the same period. Tears were common 19th-century mourning emblems. Continental Europe, circa 1810. $4,350
No. 28 georgian era ruby and diamond girandole earrings
The girandole design consists of three pear-shaped drops suspended from a central bow motif. The design was popular towards the end of the 17th century through the 18th century. When the style's popularity diminished, elements were often disassembled and utilized in reduced form, making examples in original form quite rare. Rose-cut diamonds are set into the central element in silver, while the ruby stones are set in 18k gold. England, circa 1760. $6,750
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No. 29 victorian era diamond maltese cross
A playful take on a Maltese cross form. This 19th-century pendant has dozens of rose cut and small old mine-cut diamonds set in silver on gold. Approximately 3.75 carats in total diamond weight. Presented in its original 19th-century box. England, circa 1870. $12,650
No. 30 georgian era yellow diamond heart necklace
An exceptional early 19th-century diamond heart necklace. Fifty-five fine old mine-cut diamonds are set in the form of a flaming heart. The central stone is a natural yellow pear-shaped diamond. The estimated diamond weight is 3.25 carats combined. The stones are set in silver closed-back settings, typical of the period. The pendant hangs from rare 18k gold Georgian-era microbelcher link chains with a modern clasp. England, circa 1820. $12,750
No. 31 early victorian era diamond ring
A well-preserved example of a mid-19th century ring. Nineteen original old mine cut diamonds are set in silver on 18k gold cutaway settings. The diamonds total approximately 1.25 carats in total weight. Size 5.75, limited sizing options. England, circa 1860.
$8,350
In the same form as the highly desired paste rivière necklaces, this bracelet was likely once part of a larger parure. The stones are not leaded glass paste but rock crystal quartz. Each is slightly different in size and proportion. Set in silver-topped gold collet settings. England, circa 1820. $4,250
No. 33 second empire french rose cut diamond earrings
Superb 19th-century diamond earrings in naturalist motifs. Set silver on 18k gold with bright foil-backed settings. The beautiful rose-cut diamonds are estimated to weigh 8 carats in combined weight. There are many hinged elements allowing for lively movement. France, circa 1860.
$32,500
No. 34 antique ruby line bracelet
Ninety-two oval-shaped rubies are set in a slightly graduating design. The deep pinkish-red natural rubies are subtly different in shape and size and set in silver on gold settings. England, early 20th century. $10,750
No. 35 edwardian era pearl and diamond line bracelet
White split pearls are set in 18k yellow gold. Each pearl is pointed with four rose cut diamonds in square settings. England, circa 1910. $8,950
No. 36 diminutive ruby picture frame
A precious little object. This tiny picture frame is executed in 14k yellow gold with a small hinged stand and a ruby surround. The photo compartment is beneath a glass panel. Measuring 1 inch in diameter. Continental Europe, circa 1900. $2,200
AMERICAN JEWELS IN THE EARLY 20 TH CENTURY
While much of Europe was in disarray at the end of the Great War, the United States entered a period of extravagant development: majestic skyscrapers and airy suspension bridges created new urban landscapes. Streamlined locomotives appeared, as did airplanes and automobiles, concrete highways, and airportsall bringing news of modernity into rural and urban worlds. In the more remote sections, giant dams and their hidden turbines represented the transforming force of electricity. There was an economic boom, and the lavish jewelry designs of the time paired with the lighter movement of fashion designs. It has been said that the stock market followed the height of ladies' skirts, and in the 1920s, hemlines went up and up, and so did the stock exchange. Resulting in some of the world's finest jewels coming out of American workshops for the first time.
No. 37 edwardian era platinum filigree diamond ring
Quatrefoil design with four primary old mine-cut diamonds surrounded by dozens of additional single-cut stones in masterful platinum work. The estimated total weight is 1.5 carats, numbered 028540. Size 6, limited sizeability. America, circa 1910. $9750
No. 38 retro old mine cut diamond bombé ring
This platinum ring was made in the mid-20th century, likely after World War II in the late 1940s. The stones are from an earlier time. There are an estimated 4.5 carats in total weight made up of a mixture of old mine-cut diamonds and old European-cut diamonds set in a dramatic dome shape. Size 8.5, sizable. America, circa 1945. $9,850
No. 39 art deco era diamond pendant earrings
A mixture of old mine cut and old European cut diamonds are set in intricate platinum settings. The stones are estimated to weigh approximately 9 carats in total weight. The high-quality stones are estimated to range from F to G in color and VS to Si in quality. America, circa 1920. $40,000 No. 38
No. 40 antique ruby and diamond
three-stone ring
A nice example of a timeless design. Three antique stones are set in 18k gold and platinum. The ruby weighs approximately 2.30 carats and is certified to be of Thai in origin with no heat treatment. Two antique old European cut diamonds weigh approximately .80 carats combined. Size 5.5, sizeable. England, circa 1910.
$24,250
No. 41 edwardian era diamond
starburst pendant
A bold turn-of-the-century convertible pendant and brooch made in platinum. It is likely that this was once the central element of an elaborate tiara. The additional tiara elements have been lost with time. The primary old European cut diamond is estimated to weigh approximately 1.30 carats. There are approximately 6.5 carats of additional stones.. The brooch fixture is detachable, so it can be converted into a pendant. The piece includes a custom tool for removing the pin fitting. England, circa 1910.
$18,750
No. 42 art deco ruby line bracelet
A fine early 20th-century platinum line bracelet. Natural deep red stepcut rubies are primarily Burmese in origin. Approximated at 11 carats in total stone weight.” America, circa 1920. $16,750
No. 43 early 20th century cushion cut diamond three-stone ring
A classic platinum ring with three old mine-cut, cushion-shaped diamonds. The Center diamond is approximately 2.60 carats; I color and VS2 clarity. Flanked by two side diamonds, weighing approximately 1.7 carats combined, I color and SI2 clarity. Size 6.5, sizeable. France, circa 1920.
$38,500
No. 44 belle époque lozenge shaped diamond ring
A fine and unusual diamond ring set in platinum. Intricate pierced platinum work of the finest manufacture surrounds a crisp stone weighing approximately 1.9 carats. The diamond is estimated to be E color and SI1 clarity. The additional single-cut diamonds are estimated to weigh an additional .96 carats in total weight. Size 6.5, limited sizing options. France, circa 1920.
$36,250
No. 45 art deco era old mine cut diamond and onyx earrings
An early 20th-century conversion from a fine French jabot pin. These earrings feature two primary elongated old mine-cut diamonds set in intricate platinum migraine settings. The stones are approximately 2.20 and 2.30 carats each. They are estimated to be G to H in color and VS2 in clarity. Each earring has additional old mine and old European cut diamonds with onyx details. The approximate total diamond weight for the pair is 6.65 carats. France, circa 1920.
$55,000
No. 46 art deco diamond and platinum bracelet
Approximately twelve carats of diamonds make up this antique bracelet. There are more than 250 diamonds set in beautifully executed platinum work. The stone shapes include round brilliant cut, single cut, emerald cut, marquise shapes, and baguette shapes. The largest stones are three emeraldcut diamonds weighing approximately .8 carats each. America, circa 1920. $29,750
Large-scale bracelets like these were popular in the late 1940s. This model has a strong design in 14k gold. America, circa 1945.
$7,450
No. 48 vintage gold cartier vendome
paris wrist watch
Round elliptical face in 18k yellow gold. Swiss assay marks, no. 780902445
Personalized hand engraving to verso "To My Husband on our wedding day 1-19-80.” On a black leather strap. Switzerland, circa 1980.
$10,750
No. 49 vintage pavé diamond knot earrings
Timeless ear clips in 18k gold. The intertwined loop design is set with approximately 4.50 carats in total diamond weight. The diamonds are estimated to be G to H in color, and VS1 to VS2 clarity. America, circa 1980.
$7,250
No.50 vintage boucheron diamond linked bracelet
An enduring linked design in 18k gold. Pavé set with approximately 2 carats of diamonds in platinum. Signed Boucheron, Paris. France, circa 1970.
$18,500
No. 51 retro emerald and diamond
convertible bracelet
This bold bangle bracelet is convertible into two separate dress clips allowing the bangle to be worn in reduced form. Bright emerald cabochon stones are set in a swirling pattern with diamonds. Signed, Nieman Marcus. America, circa 1950.
$38,500
No. 52 cartier burmese sapphire and diamond ring
A vintage platinum ring by Cartier. A central 3.5-carat blue sapphire is certified as Burmese in origin and natural with no treatments. The stone is surrounded by bright white diamonds set in a pavé style. Size 6, limited sizeability. Signed and numbered, Cartier, 870937. $58,500
vintage
A braided 18k gold bracelet with a diamond panel that opens to reveal a diminutive watch face. The bracelet has an estimated diamond weight of 1.7 carats. Signed Boucheron, Paris. Small in size. France, circa 1950. $15,750
No. 54 retro french emerald
cabochon necklace
A bright, cheerful green encircles the neck with nearly 275 carats of natural emeralds. The stones are certified to be from the Ural mountain range in Russia. Each high domed stone is set in handmade 18k gold settings. Paris Hallmarks. *Matching earrings also available for purchase. France, circa 1950.
$58,000
This necklace was made in France in the celebratory climate of post-World War II. At the time, France was in the middle of a modernization of infrastructure and architecture, repairing the damage from the war. In fashion, there was a return to femininity. The jewels were designed to balance the sculptural elegance of the bold designs created by newly famous names like Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain, and Cristóbal Balenciaga. Paris was amidst a fashion renaissance, and pieces like this were gracing the necks of the women of the time.
BELL BIRD DESIGNS
Every step of our process is contemplated with longevity in mind. In an age where few things are manufactured slowly, we look at our inhouse jewelry through the lens of antiques. Many of our techniques have been lost in the name of speed and mass production at the cost of quality and beauty. Over a single week, we look at thousands of pieces of jewelry. Most are ordinary, of questionable quality, and passed over. The very few acquired and offered to our clients have endured the test of time. They have quality in materials, form, and construction. Each piece was important enough to the original owner that they cared for it and passed it along to another person who felt the same way. We put that spirit into the pieces we make. We want your heirs to be thrilled to inherit our pieces and for their value to endure the test of time.
No. 55 bell & bird channel set
baguette diamond band
After acquiring an extensive collection of matched baguette diamonds, we created this ring. The stones were all sourced from an elaborate but obsolete diamond bracelet dating to the late 1940’s. The band features 4.57 carats in total weight. The stones are estimated to be H color and VS1 clarity. 18k old gold. Available size, 5.25. By special order in other sizes.
$25,750
No. 56 bell & bird emerald cut and baguette diamond ring
Influenced by Art Deco era designs, we created this new design in platinum. Six bezel-set baguettes flank a central 2-carat emerald cut diamond. The primary stone is certified to be H color and VS1 clarity. The matched vintage baguette diamonds weigh 1.12 carats in additional weight. All the stones in this ring were reclaimed from vintage jewels. Size 6.5, sizable. $29,750
