2012秋冬 第11期
女士专属 2012-2013秋冬趋势
为您量身定制的西装 访谈 STROMAE VIVIENNE WESTWOOD S cabal 推 崇 量 身 定 制 的 生 活 方 式
与SCABAL有关的数字 1972-2012年： 与好莱坞的40年激情岁月
“A Private Banker who does not beat about the bush. That’s what I expect.”
Trust your ING Private Banker who tells it like it is. “Time is everything”, that is a fact. The more time a Private Banker
In all openness, your ING Private Banker will occasionally suggest
frees up for you, the better your wealth will fare. That is the reason
the unexpected, in keeping with your personal objectives. He or
why an ING Private Banker is far more than an advisor. He or she
she, fully familiar with your unique situation, can offer tailor-made
is your person of trust who is there to listen to you, who takes
solutions, even before you ask.
into account your specific needs and who understands you.
ing.be/privatebanking
ING Belgium SA/NV - Bank - avenue Marnix 24, B-1000 Brussels - Brussels RPM/RPR - VAT BE 0403.200.393 - BIC (SWIFT): BBRUBEBB – IBAN (account): BE45 3109 1560 2789 (310-9156027-89). Publisher: Philippe Wallez - cours Saint-Michel 60, 1040 B-Brussels.
我们的主要合作对象是国际广告商。如果 您对我们的广告价目感兴趣，请联系： Custom Regie, Thierry Magerman thierry@customregie.be 或 +32 (0)475 72 84 47 未经出版商书面允许，不得复制本杂志的 全部或任何内容。 出版商概不对作者或撰稿人在本杂志中 表达的看法或见解负责。 《Bespoken》 亦不负责或赞同页面刊印的广告内容。 《Bespoken》概不对相关广告材料的 任何错误或不准确性负责。 编辑 JÉRÔME STÉFANSKI 出版商 GREGOR THISSEN 项目统筹 KRISTEL GEETS 风格设计 SYLVAIN GADEYNE 平面设计 BASEDESIGN 撰稿人 NIGEL BISHOP MAURITS BRANDS ALAN CANNON-JONES CÉCILE DE FORTON FEDERICO GRANDESSO BRUNO MORANDI ERIC MUSGRAVE JANET PRESCOTT WILFRIED REDANT BERNHARD ROETZEL JÉRÔME STÉFANSKI
编 者语
写给 女性的话
亲
爱的读者 ： “每个成功男人的背后都有一个了不起的女人” ，听上去像是陈词滥调，但这却是无可 否认的事实。 无数历史人物都证明了这个事实——从 Eleonor Roosevelt、 Gaya （Dali 之妻，也是 Dali 的左膀右臂和精神支柱）、 Frida Calo （Diego Rivera 之妻） 到 Michele Obama，这些女性使我们认识到，女人不必隐居幕后，同样能帮男人成就辉煌事业。 因 此，第十一期 《Bespoken》 特向不仅为他们的丈夫和家庭奉献自己的人生，还在自己的职业、追求和慈 善活动中取得巨大成功的所有知名或不知名女性表示敬意。
在更实际的层面上，我们的撰稿人关注女性对于男性的着装习惯所发挥的作用。 实际上，许多男人 不管多有权有势，都会把穿衣的决策权交给他们的妻子或伴侣。 我们多少次听到这样的话 ：“在服 装上，我全听妻子的。” 显然， 《Bespoken》 在谈论女强人这个话题时，不得不提及在时尚界呼风唤雨，最近几十年来为时 尚界做过卓越创新贡献的女性们，例如斯特拉 • 麦卡特尼和坚持己见、有政治头脑的薇薇安 • 威斯特 伍德。 但秉承我们杂志的传统，我们不仅关注纺织品世界，还向您介绍许多不同领域的杰出女性。 最后，我们简要介绍颇具时尚魅力但政治立场正确的倍耐力年历，以此表示对美丽女性的敬意。 通过介绍我们的新款秋冬系列，我们希望为 “夫妻购物族” 提供时装决策方面的灵感和指导。 祝 阅读愉快！ Peter & Gregor Thissen
校对 JAMES DREW & COLIN MOORS ReadRight.be
摄影师 BRUNO MORANDI LUK VANDER PLAETSE STEPHEN PAPANDROPOULOS RONALD STOOPS 插图设计师 JEAN-BAPTISTE BICHE OLIVIER VAN BEGIN
“我们希望为 夫妻购物族 提供时装决策方面 的灵感和指导。”
SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium 电话：+ 32 (0)2 217 50 55
Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen
www.scabal.com 您有任何建议或反馈吗？ 请在 www.bespoken.com 告诉我们 在 iPad 上阅读《Bespoken》： www.bespoken.com/ipad
Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen 及其父亲 J. Peter Thissen（集团主席） © Scabal
《Bespoken》乃采用源自公平贸易的环保纸 张印刷。
此标志表示重点文章在 Bespoken.com上有多种 语言版本 1
目录 01 编者 语
36 这 就 是 S CA BA L
写给女性的话
SCABAL，STROMAE ： 让我们共舞！
04 撰稿者
我们的部分主要参与者 06 与 SCABA L 有 关 的数 字
38 B ES P OK E 世 界
玛莎拉蒂程序构建新现实
40
28 与众不 同的 配饰
让我们谈谈短袜 30 配饰
严选经典 34 面料指 导
为什么美利奴羊毛 如此受欢迎
54
RANA THARU ：尼泊尔公主
CAL ™ 四十周年庆 63 过 去 – 现 在 – 未来
SCABAL 新闻 64
特别专题 ： 写给女性的话 41
十二个改变世界的 女性 44
LUDOVICA CARBOTTA ： 城市新视野 46
小样品，大成效 48
女性力量
2
干邑白兰地背后的女性
60
12 201 2 -2 0 1 3 秋 冬 趋势
经典或现代 ：做出正确选择
53
变革的时代 ：女裁缝大步向前
高雅新系列
24 201 2 -2 0 1 3 秋 冬 风格 建议
BESPOKE 献给她的礼物
58
08 从羊毛 到面 料
为您量身定制的 西装
51
SCABAL 全球
Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back. Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguetteshaped movement.
www.corum.ch
撰稿者
我们的部分主要参与者 文章：Jérôme Stéfanski 插图：Jean-Baptiste Biche 和 Olivier Van Begin
Janet PRESCOTT Eric MUSGRAVE
Janet Prescott 是纺织和时尚行业的一名独 立作者和评论员。 她扎根于以织布业著称 的英国约克郡伊尔克利。 她目前主要效力
Eric Musgrave 近三十年来一直撰写时尚类 文章，并担任最近出版的 200 页男性服装书 刊 《Sharp Suits》 的作者。 他曾担任英国 顶级时尚周刊 《Drapers》 的主编，并斩获 殊 荣， 他 还 在 《Men’s Wear》、 《Fashion We e k l y 》 、 《 In t e r n a t i o n a l Te x t i l e s 》 （总 部 在 阿 姆 斯 特 丹） 和 《Sportswear
Bernhard ROETZEL
于 《Twist magazine》，担任布料 和纱线主 编 ，她负责报导国际重大展览会，采访业内 名人，就环保奢华、设计师品牌、新纱线、 布料和时尚等话题撰写评论文章。 《Bespoken》 中， Janet 采 访 了 两 名 才 华横溢的女性，她们是萨维尔街的大师级 裁缝。
Bernhard Roetzel 是 流 行 杂 志 《Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design》 的作者，研究经典男装已 超过十年。 除了担任作者和编辑外，他还 举办关于潮流课题的讲座和研讨会。 在 本 期 中， Bernhard 探 索 了 制 作 Scabal 短袜的传统方式。
International》 （总 部 在 米 兰） 担 任 高 层，以及为 《金融时报 》、 《观察者 》 和 《Vogue》 等其他刊物撰写大量文章。 在本期杂志中， Eric 将介绍 Scabal 全新 布料系列，并向我们提供实用的冬季潮流 资讯。
Maurits BRANDS
Cécile DE FORTON
Bruno MORANDI
杂志编辑 Maurits Brands 撰写关于视觉文化
他 的 个 人 文 库 《Archive Magazine Brands
记者，她担任多家刊物的自由作家。 她喜
Bruno Morandi 是足迹遍布全球的摄影师和
Antwerp》 囊括从 1898 年至今种类广泛的原
欢的课题是时尚、艺术和文化。 他扎根于
作家。 在巴黎学习建筑学的时候，他的首
版杂志以及书籍和数字参考书目。 他投身
布鲁塞尔，最近开创了自己的事业 Papier
次旅行选择前往尼泊尔和巴基斯坦。 在他
于书籍和展览事业，旨在让更多人认识到，
Stylé， 这 是 一 家 为 公 司 提 供 服 务 的 写 作
童年很小的时候，夏天是在父亲的家乡意大
作为一种艺术形式和文化索引，杂志给我们
机构。
利托斯卡纳度过的。 那里群山连绵起伏，
这个世界所带来的生机与活力，并不亚于电
风景如诗如画，他自幼在这种环境下耳濡目
影、 （平面） 设计和建筑。
和社会背景方面的文章，擅长钻研杂志的历 史，对新闻业、摄影和平面设计尤感兴趣。
染，旅游品味自然受到影响——他曾为 《国
在第十一期 《Bespoken》 中， Maurits 研
家 地 理 》、 《Grands Reportages》、 《Le Monde》、 《VSD》 和 《CNN Traveller》 工作过。 《Bespoken》 中， Bruno 到尼泊尔见识了 完全由女性主导的群体。
究了玛莎拉蒂豪车和著名的倍耐力年历的过
4
去和未来，接着介绍了 bespoke 精选出的史 上 12 大最杰出女性。
Cécile de Forton 是 一 位 年 轻 又 充 满 活 力 的
在 《Bespoken》， Cécile 采访了两名有幸 为热情而活的女性 ：意大利艺术家 Ludovica Carbotta 和法国干邑白兰地制造商 Pierrette Tripet。
THE HEART OF COGNAC
Taste our know-how wisely
40 与SCABA L有关 的数字
这 是 Scabal 与 好 莱 坞 电 影 产 业 携 手 合 作 的 年 数 —— 故 事 要 追 溯 到 1972 年， 当 年 Scabal 向 弗 朗 西 斯 • 福 特 • 科 波 拉 三 部 曲 的 第 一 部 《教 父 》 （ 主 演 ： 马 龙 • 白 兰 度 ） 提 供 布 料。 近 年 来， 电 影 中 频 频 出 现 Scabal 服 装 的 身 影， 比 如《 华 尔 街 》 （1987 年 ）、 《 赌 城 风 云 》 （1995 年 ）、 《 泰 坦 尼 克 号 》 （1997 年 ）、 《黑衣人 》 （1997 年）、 《皇家赌场 》 （2006 年）、 《华尔街 2 ：金钱永不眠 》 （2011 年）和《碟中谍 4 》 （2011 年）。
撰文：Jérôme Stéfanski
《华尔街 2》主演迈克尔 • 道格拉斯和希亚 • 拉博夫
《飞行家》主演莱昂纳多 • 迪卡普里奥
《教父》主演马龙 • 白兰度
查看更多出现 Scabal 服装的身影的电影 www.scabal.com/movies
好
莱 坞 服 装 设 计 师 认 为 Scabal 是 品
30 米长的一种非常昂贵的布料。 按码数计
质、正统和个性化服务的保证——
算，至少可以制作十件西装！当我们将此报 告给生产部时，根据每米的价格，我们获 知他们将制作几件西装。 我看过电影后， 终于懂了 ：杰克 • 尼科尔森——或他的特技 替身——每次从一辆车跳到一个水坑，在一 组镜头里，他又身穿另一件外套钻进了垃圾 桶！” 显然，对于好莱坞来说，没有最好， 只有更好。
这 是 Scabal 受 到 如 此 多 仰 慕 的 原
因所在。 除了提供布料外，品牌还提供服 装设计师方面的建议，以 《巴拿马裁缝 》 （2001 年） 为例， Scabal 协助布置电影场 景，完美再现了大师级裁缝的工作环境。
“有 时， 我 们 会 收 到 非 常 不 寻 常 的 请 求，” Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen 说 道，“我记得有一次，好莱坞让我们提供 《赌城风云 》主演乔 • 佩西和罗伯特 • 德尼罗
6
查看更多出现 Scabal 服装的身影的电影 www.scabal.com/movies
Tomorrow is what we make it. Bamboo, rattan, steel and nylon. That’s all designer Kenneth Cobonpue needed to build the first-ever biodegradable roadster. And at the same time, to come up with a solution for one of the world’s biggest environmental problems: the waste created by old cars. So, does this mean the end of the vintage car? That depends on how you look at it. What’s sure is that it’ll make your typical vintage car even more unique. This visionary and innovative outlook on life and finance is what we have been focusing on for the last 140 years. And it is exactly the same way we will approach your personal and business investments in order to safeguard their future. If just like us, you are convinced that the future starts today, you’re more than welcome to stop by at toekomstvisies.be or visiondavenirs.be
K
N
O
K
K
E
-
Z
O
U
T
E
Bank Degroof is proud to support the Zoute Grand Prix.
degroof.be
从羊毛 到面料
高雅新系列 Scabal 可供选择的面料繁多，每一新季度都可精挑细选。今年冬季，除了提供四季常有的 5,000 多种 独一无二的布料外，还有许多新设计和颜色可供选择。
撰文：Eric Musgrave 2012–2013 年秋冬季，时尚的千变万化将向
PANACHE
我们呈现彰显个性但明显矛盾的潮流。 在
这种新款法兰绒面料概括了 Scabal 以时尚
某些方面，图案 （特别是条纹） 正在被忽略， 又务实的面料征服众多市场的实力——该系 而假平纹、微设计和同色系配色逐渐崭露头
列包括许多朝气蓬勃的颜色，顾客穿梭于世
角。 微妙和精致的表面效果形成强烈的对比。 界各地，经常需要购买衣服，以适应与他们 至于该季度的其他方面，大胆和复杂的格
家乡气候迥异的气候。 比如，生活在亚热带
子布大行其道，不仅应用于夹克上，还出现
气候的香港商人越来越熟悉中国北部的寒冷
在西装中。 动感活泼的格伦格子 1 ，对比强
冬季。
烈的窗格花纹，必会赢得喜爱低调商务套装
布料词汇 “格 伦 格 子”－－ 格 伦 格 子 布 料 的 特 点 是大正方形，通常覆盖着较小的彩色正方 形。 这种布料被用来制作传统西装，也可 用于制作运动夹克。
1
Panache 是一款非常适合冬季穿着的面料，
的男士青睐。 Scabal 能够满足挑剔男士衣 它有两个显著特点。 首先，它是由羊毛法兰 橱的所有选择。
绒制成，重 360 克。 羊毛工艺给了面料高贵、 饱满的触感。 除了意料之中的灰色和蓝色， 此系列还包括许多意想不到的大胆色调，比
2
如鲜紫色、亮蓝色和绿色。 一些面料制作
两根或四根不同颜色的线织成图案的布料。
冬季最流行的色彩之一是蓝色。 这种用途广 西装将大受追捧，而一些面料可能更适合制
“犬牙花纹” 布料通常采用羊毛制成，常见
TOISON D ’ OR （金羊毛） 走过 2012 年春夏季，来看今年秋冬季，秋 泛的颜色的许多色调均可在本系列超级 150
作单独的夹克、上衣、马甲或裤子。 品牌
支西服面料中觅得身影，此系列是最新作品
希望许多客户能从 “Panache’s” 各种混搭
“犬 牙 花 纹”－ － 犬 牙 花 纹 是 一 种 运 用
颜色是黑色和白色。
的最高等级。 选用轻盈的 260 克面料，花纹 可能性中找到工作的快乐。 样式精致高贵，带有平纹、素雅柔和的阴影
这个系列的第二个特点是，重量为 330 克
条纹、以及别致而内敛的格纹。 这种高档
的精纺法兰绒凸显品质。 整体而言，精纺
布料系列富有潇洒的阳刚之气，三件套西装
工艺使表面更光滑，颜色选择更为保守却又
将 这 种 气 质 尽 显 无 余。 “Toison D’Or” 面
恰如其分，其中比较典型的是多种米黄色渐
料在 Scabal 的 Nº 12 面料系列中非常出彩。
变色和杂绿色。 整个系列有 36 种平纹图案。
3
“人 字 形 图 案”－ － 人 字 形 图 案 从 毛 哔
叽演变而来，类似于锯齿，与经纱平行或垂
ROYAL FLUSH
CORTINA
直。 斜纹布对角线的方向发生变化，形成
南美原驼 （美国骆驼的近亲） 毛以手感柔软、 在成衣面料系列中， Scabal 总体仍然推崇瘦
之字形，类似于鲱鱼的骨骼，因此也被称为 “人字形图案”。
温暖而享有美名。 这种驼毛比最优质的开
身款夹克和裤子。 “Cortina” 是全新、引
士米还柔软，柔软度几乎可与小羊驼毛媲
人注目的运动型冬装和夹克，是打造这种时
美，原驼毛是一种稀有的珍贵驼毛， Scabal
尚造型的完美选择。 Cortina 具有毫不掩饰
喜欢选用这种驼毛来迎合注重最优品质的客
新奇之感，且不墨守陈规，通过复杂且最新
户。 “Royal Flush”是一种全新的奢华面料， 的格伦格子彰显特色，有两种底色，并采用 在精致的超级 160 支美利奴羊毛中加入了 5%
另外两种颜色加以装饰。 该系列还包括犬牙
的原驼毛。 这种面料摸上去非常柔软。 重 花纹 2 图案和一些带有人字形图案 3 的条纹。 280 克，共有 27 种图案，全部选用灰色和
典型的组合是米黄色底色配上浅灰色和中蓝
深蓝色等经典颜色，带有非常精细的微设计、 色，或者芥末色面料上饰以粉红色和浅蓝色。 阴影条纹和不普通的平纹。 这种高档奢华
重量为 280 克的纯美利奴羊毛为光面，略微
的西装面料无需装饰或过多装饰。 这就是
提升表面质感，增强面料触感。 这些面料是
低调的雅致。
制作便服和盛装的理想之选，一切全凭穿着 者的喜好。
8
Royal Flush：融合原驼毛和美利奴羊毛的 全新系列——今年冬季的制胜组合。 © Scabal
9
CHAMPION 这个系列采用超级 120 支布料，图案不少于
超越原驼
52 种，用途广泛，重量为 290 克。 钟爱经 典而不失时尚气息的面料的顾客，必会喜欢 人字形图案设计、精细织花、花式平素和顺 序投梭图案。 颜色倾向于保守柔和，而在 编织时加入了不少精美的细节。
CAPELLA Scabal 的 面 料 设 计 师 Michael Day 和 他 的 团队为希望与众不同的自信人士创造了 “Capella”。 他们利用公司 20 世纪 70 年代 的档案，带来 12 款极其精美的夹克，其中采 用大方格形和毛圈花式线，使表面看起来略 微粗糙。 颜色的搭配毫无限制，绿色／橙色、 蓝色／黄绿色、棕色／紫色及中蓝色／红色， 任您挑选。 “Capella” 采用纯美利奴羊毛 制成，品质上乘，重量为 300 克，在英格兰 编织而成。 您曾经受到过 70 年代的启发吗？请读者 翻到本期第 32-33 页，了解关于本系列的更 多信息，以及了解关于 Scabal 与国际著名歌 手 Stromae 合作的更多信息，双方的合作始 于 “Capella”。
ROMANCE “Romance” 采用顶级品质的梳毛纺精细开 士米制成。 这个系列的重量为 280 克，非 常适合日益具影响力的具有无衬里、自然肩 设计的夹克，提供平纹、半平纹、格伦格子 和方格图案，在 2012–2013 秋冬会有巨大的 需求。
不论是开士米、美利奴羊毛、法兰绒还是原 驼毛， Scabal 使用最高贵的天然纤维来打造
原驼
多个系列，独一无二而又无比舒适。 该品 牌奉行 “矢志追求上等面料” (A passion for cloth) 理念，坚持不懈致力于再创造，却从
原驼 （与羊驼、美洲驼和驼马一样） 是南美洲骆驼科的一员。 与可
不忽视其自 1938 年起在布料领域的专业技能。
以在 5,800 米高的地方发现的驼马不一样，3,000 米以上就很少看到 原驼了。 秘鲁南部、阿根廷和火地岛可以找到原驼的踪影。 目前， 原驼在巴塔哥尼亚的分布更广泛，在那里二十只左右的原驼组成一 个小群体生活在一起，领头的是占主导地位的雄性原驼。 原驼身 长约 120 厘米，重约 110 千克，因此比驼马 （80 厘米／ 50 千克） 更大。 原驼毛极细 （14 微米），但触感仍比驼马 （12 微米）要粗糙 些。 但是原驼与驼马一样，都是濒临绝种 （且受保护） 的野生动
本季，纤薄雅致 的表面效果比 强烈的对比 更受人喜爱。
10
物。 为了收集珍贵的羊毛，首先必须按照极其严格的规则捕捉动 物，然后再将它们放归自然环境中。
用 iPad 应 /ipad en .com
B espok
2 0 12 -20 13 秋 冬趋势
为您量身定制 的西装 穿着量身定制的服装不仅是享受一流的舒适感，也是张扬个性的绝佳方式。这个冬季，Scabal 再次 采用六种特殊布料来展现六种强烈个性，前所未有地将内涵和形式融合在一起。 摄影师 ：Ronald Stoops 艺术指导 ：Pierre Daras for BaseDesign 风格设计 ：Sylvain Gadeyne, Olivier Vander Slock 和 Pierre Daras for BaseDesign 文章 ：Jasmine De Bruycker for BaseDesign 协调员 ：Kristel Geets 服装、布料和服装配饰 ：Scabal
12
“诀窍”先生与布料 Nº 703235 在您需要意见时，首先想到的是 “诀窍” 先生 (Mr. Know-How)。 与他的爷爷 一样，他学识渊博，天资聪慧。 “诀窍” 先生还继承了识别真正手工艺的慧 眼，在用时尚花招或琐事打扰 “诀窍” 先生前请三思。 只有耐用而又正宗的 品质才是他的珍爱。 难怪 “诀窍” 先生只穿技艺娴熟的巧匠亲手制作的西装。 他最爱的 Scabal 面料之一是布料 Nº 703235，一种采用 360 克粗纯冬季羊毛，以 英式织法编织而成的较重布料。 这种传统品质如今很难找到，可与永恒设计完 美搭配。 Scabal 的 “Classics” 系列提供丰富多样的选择，从个性十足的鸟眼 花纹到人字形图案、条纹或方格形斜纹布，林林总总。 这个系列是最珍视工艺 传统的行家的理想之选。
13
“舒适”先生与布料 Nº 703167 “舒适” 先生 (Mr. Comfortable) 是一个生活忙碌而又不失热诚的人。 他像疯 子一样工作，但会极力保护自己在设定时间放松的权利。 因此他的西装要足 够舒适，让他可以小睡一会儿，但是又必须足够随意，让他可以站起来就走。 “Cortina” 系列的布料 Nº 703167 可以完美地满足这个双重用途。 该系列采用 280 克超细美利奴羊毛制成，品质一流，为您带来温暖，却毫无笨重之感。 超 软的表面乃采用 Scabal 的传统抛光工艺获得，长时间的洗涤处理带来让人心旷 神怡的法兰绒触感。 现代格伦格子图案增添了许多风采，与布料的经典、高贵 感形成了很好的对比。 这款必备系列融合了柔软和优雅，让 “舒适” 先生感 到无比满足，直到智能手机铃声再次响起……
14
“哲学”先生与布料 Nº 852161 长信、纯种马和真正的骑士精神让您从普通人中脱颖而出的时代到哪里去了？ “哲学” 先 生 (Mr. Philosopher) 决定让这些光辉岁月重新成为时尚。 他肩负重任。 “哲学” 先生认 为每个人都应该遵循骑士价值观和高尚的思维。 Scabal 的奢华开士米似乎是他完美的传教 伙伴。 “Romance” 系列具有的温暖和轻质精纺品质可谓别具一格。 它起源于喜马拉雅 山，这里盛产最上乘和最独特的开士米，与市场上找到的标准大相径庭。 只挑选开士米山 羊下腹部最长、最精细和最白的羊毛，密密纺成超细纱线。 用它制成的夹克具有迷人的褶 皱和华丽的自然光泽，乃为 Scabal 的开士米所独有。 它始终陪伴 “哲学” 先生进入俱乐 部，在那里他喜欢对着丘陵景观沉思，同时就生活的意义礼貌地与他具有骑士精神的弟子 展开讨论。
17
“可靠”先生与布料 Nº 801695 即使在世界结束，狂风乱作、寒冷刺骨之时， “可靠” 先生 (Mr. Reliable) 仍会感到舒适。 他坚如磐石、沉着冷静，激发人们的尊重和信心。 他真实自然，并且以相应的方式着装。 “可靠” 先生喜爱具有乡村风情的法兰绒，触感温暖的传统面料，比如布料 Nº 801695。 这种柔软的纯羊毛面料属于 Scabal “Gallery” 系列。 它采用较重的 340 克羊毛纱线制成， 有款有型。 轻软的表面和雅致的格子图案使之变成完美的休闲夹克。 其他 Gallery 面料包 括重量最高达 420 克的纯羊毛混合开士米或棉，所有面料都以灵感源于乡村的设计来展现。 身穿这种舒适的面料，纵然是在荒野旅行，亦能为您遮风挡雨，又不失优雅风度。
18
“大亨”先生与布料 Nº 752363 “大亨” 先生 (Mr. Tycoon) 桀骜不驯、全神贯注并且时刻准备投入比赛。 对他而言，生活 就是要全心投入。“大亨”先生不会坐等灵感涌现或者天赐好运，他会亲自掌控所有事情。 当他进入企业战场时，他喜欢穿着有着非常完美的褶皱的三件套西装，给对手留下深刻印 象。 只有布料 Nº 752363 能担此重任。 这种精致且轻巧的布料是 Scabal 精品 “Toison d’Or” 系列的亮点。 该面料采用经典超级 150 支羊毛制成，重量仅为 260 克，手感极佳且柔滑， 受到众多行家的高度赞扬。 精美的设计和光彩夺目的表面增添了迷人触感，让任何商务会 议都充满活力。 经典自信与现代大胆创新的融合，被证明是如此有效的商务策略，甚至让 “大亨” 先生都难以忘怀。
21
“上流社会”先生与布料 Nº 851670 每个时代都需要一个优雅使者，一个适合 “上流社会” 先生 (Mr. High-Society) 的角色。 穿着考究的好莱坞传奇人物所展现的魅力，让他的装扮成为黄金风格。 他并不缺少灵感。 “上流社会” 先生喜欢将湖边聚会变成电影明星、模特和显要人物云集的盛宴。 在镇上的 所有酒吧都关闭时，夜晚在他阁楼的屋顶延续，他穿着优质、轻盈的开士米睡袍在那里欢 迎他的宾客。 只选用最精细、最长和最有光泽的开士米纤维来制成这种让人印象深刻的柔 软光滑的 Nº 851670 布料。 它属于独特的 “Loch Fyne” 系列，提供多种设计，其中以米黄 色、棕色和蓝色方格、人字形图案或颜色绚丽的平纹居多。 这些都凸显了 “Loch Fyne’s” 高档 100% 开士米自然优雅的品质。 “唯美的纨绔子弟” 将生活视为一种艺术项目，必须 具有自己的风格，对他们来说，必须探索这个系列。
22
2 01 2- 201 3 秋 冬风格建议
经典或现代 ： 做出正确选择 时尚专家 Eric Musgrave 就 2012–2013 秋冬风格向《Bespoken》提供了几个重要的小贴士。 英国经典风格和意大利含蓄优雅似乎必定会产生主要影响。 在即将到来的冬季，经典风格将与现代风格 展开博弈。 优雅人士的最爱，比如三件套 西装和双排纽扣夹克将获得一群上层人士的 接受，同时更具现代风格、质地柔软的夹克 和修身西装定会再次风靡。 量身定制的另一个新意，是为两件套西装 添上一件对比感强烈的马甲，从全新角度诠 释经典的三件套理念。 潇洒帅气的都市大衣 无疑是男士们衣橱中的必备。
意大利的影响 ：修身及休闲 Scabal 的 销 售 和 产 品 经 理 Olivier Vander Slock 认 为 现 代 之 风 表 现 出 两 个 截 然 不 同 的 风 格。 “S house 风 格 以 两 件 套 或 三 件 套 的 修 身 套 装， 小 翻 领 短 夹 克 和 修 身 剪 裁 的 裤 子， 彰 显 出 时 髦 与 帅 气。 配 上我们的窄版领带会为这个造型画龙 点睛。”
“如今深受意大利影响的柔软的定制风格 几乎成了标准，其中垮肩夹克可以与采用 Scabal 面料制成的棉布裤或有五个口袋的牛 仔裤搭配穿着。 大多数男士在穿着这身衣服 时不会戴领带，但是没必要一定要打造成休 闲风。 戴上领带也很帅气。 我想说，这种 风格并未太多地体现时尚趋势，而是彰显了 穿衣者的个性。 有些男士就是喜欢这样。”
SCABAL 秋冬新款 强调不同布料 的马甲与其他西装 的搭配，强烈对比 营造非凡的 视觉冲击力 夹克，Gallery, Nº 801685 © Scabal
24
用 iPad 应 /ipad en .com
B espok
寻找合适冬季搭配 的五个小贴士 1. 大胆尝试三件套西装
紧随潮流步伐，尝试三件套西装。 马甲赋予西装定制般的奢华 外观，同时亦是抵御寒冬侵扰的实用服装。 马甲上的翻领看起 来别具一格。 2. 尝试双排纽扣夹克
再次考虑双排纽扣夹克的时候到了。 那么它是否和单排纽扣夹 克一样容易搭配呢？衣着考究的绅士不会介意在穿着上费心劳 神！合身的双排纽扣夹克会让您英姿飒爽、魅力非凡。 3. 简约而不简单
如果您并非经常穿着西装，可以考虑简约朴实但品质一流的款 式。 经典的海军蓝或深灰色西装颇有优势 ；您可以尽情添加您 需要的亮点 ：衬衫、领带、口袋手绢、袖扣、皮带和皮鞋。 4. 保证温暖
冬季是寒冷的，因此我们选择采用暖色保温布料制作的服饰。 花呢、拉绒羊毛和必不可少的法兰绒将在寒冷的月份为我们带 来春日般的温暖。 5. 让您的生活多姿多彩
不要害羞地回避图案和色彩。 具有冲击力的色彩和宽大、大胆 的设计图案 （如超大的格伦格子和窗格子） 为沉闷的秋冬季增 添不少靓丽的风景，令人想起秋天里漫天飘舞的落叶。 色彩与 图案并非夹克专属！
按下列网址寻找您的当地零售商： www.scabal.com/store
25
当代套装，意大利灵感 纯羊毛领带来自“Oxford”系列 ；由布料 Nº 801696（65% 羊毛——35% 棉） 制成的纯棉衬衫、软夹克来自“Gallery”系列 ；法兰绒保暖马甲来自“Omega”系列 ； 由精纺法兰绒面料 Nº 702828 制成的布料边框来自“Flannel & Saxony”系列（超级 120 支）。 © Scabal
经典套装，英伦风情 纯丝领带来自“Cambridge”系列 ；纯棉衬衫、雨衣来自“Omega”系列 ； 由布料 Nº 752363（纯美利奴羊毛）制成的 Nº 12 西装和布料边框来自“Toison d’Or”系列。 © Scabal
英伦风情 ：双排纽扣夹克和马甲
非凡的视觉冲击力。 另外还有靓丽的颜色，
具有冲击力的色彩和高级配饰
作为男人衣橱里最优雅但也是最难搭配的服
与平纹混搭的图案可供选择，必将成为吸引
非正式夹克和休闲长裤具有冲击力的色彩外
饰之一，双排纽扣夹克无可抵挡的回归潮流
个人主义者的完美之选。
观是另一个受欢迎的冬季趋势。 在御冬棉装
将使经典服饰的拥趸们倍受鼓舞。 双排纽
上使用夏天的缤纷色彩乃是本品牌的一大特
扣夹克的全盛期属于 20 世纪 80 年代，自此
大衣的回归
之后，双排纽扣夹克几乎从许多系列中消失
秋季设计师走秀上最值得注意的一个趋势是
色，一些经磨毛处理的棉装外观充满 “生活 的韵味”。
了，但在今夏，众多顶尖设计师又再次关注
优雅大衣的回归。 过去几年来，北欧遭受了
另外我们还准备了大量优质的针织衫和精
起它。
恶劣的寒冬影响，提醒人们注意 “智能外
良的高级配饰，可供众多眼光敏锐、知晓着
有些男士不喜欢双排纽扣夹克，因为实际
套” 的益处。 虽然 Scabal 拥有一些美丽的
装打扮重要性的客户品鉴。 今年秋天，新
穿着时必须随时扣紧它，但有些男士则认为
大衣系列，但某些人对夹克品质的轻质外套
的 Scabal 旗舰店将在布鲁塞尔和北京盛大开
双排纽扣夹克非常具有吸引力 ；穿着这种夹
更感兴趣。
业，因此配饰系列将会增添更多新品。 固
克可让您的身材更加挺拔，有助于您更好地
“过去两到三个冬季，我们发现大衣越来 越 受 欢 迎，” Olivier Vander Slock 肯 定 地 说 ：“这些大衣在城市中广受欢迎，外观很 像 20 世纪 60 年代的风格，由于长及膝盖以 上 2 到 3 厘米或刚好到膝盖以下，所以极其 温暖。 400 克羊毛／开士米混纺非常流行， 但质量和 360–380 克的马裤尼和薄斜纹外套 尼类似。 我们正在开发大衣作为我们夹克系 列的补充。”
特异工艺 (Goodyear-welted) 的鞋履、大量引
展现自己英姿飒爽的一面。 该夹克的肩部宽 阔，腰身修窄，凸显了阳刚的男性轮廓。 马甲也是男性的最爱 ；它是男士衣橱里最 类似于 “紧身胸衣” 的服饰。 马甲与夹克 和长裤完美搭配，使男士站立更显挺拔，或 者端坐更挺直。 难怪首席执行官也无法抵挡 三件套的魅力。 Scabal 秋冬新款强调不同布 料的马甲与其他西装的搭配，强烈对比营造
26
人瞩目的实用皮箱和精选钱包将加入秋季系 列，并将在明天春天推出更多狂热新品。
MASERATI GRANTURISMO SPORT. OPPOSITES ATTRACT. Today, with the birth of the GranTurismo Sport, Maserati enters new realms of style, comfort and high performance, meeting the desires of the most demanding clientele. The latest evolution of the Gran Turismo concept, the new gem from Maserati seduces at first glance, a perfect combination of modernity and function for a thrilling, luxurious driving experience, seating four in comfort. Safety, style and dynamism. Every detail is designed to deliver results of excellence, around the eternal heart of every Maserati car: the engine. Powered by 460 HP, the GranTurismo Sport unveils all its aggression in “Sport” mode. Luxury and high performance, just waiting to be put to the test. Visit www.maserati.com to find out more about the GranTurismo Sport. To enter the Maserati GranTurismo Sport world, you can scan the QR code using the camera of your smartphone. For more information on QR codes, see mobi.maserati.com V8 4691 CC ENGINE - MAXIMUM POWER OUTPUT: 460 HP AT 7000 RPM - MAXIMUM TORQUE: 520 NM AT 4750 RPM - MAXIMUM SPEED: 298 KM/H (AUTOMATIC) - 300 KM/H (ELECTRO-ACTUATED) 0-100 KM/H - ACCELERATION: 4.8 SECONDS (AUTOMATIC) - 4.7 SECONDS (ELECTRO-ACTUATED) - COMBINED CYCLE CONSUPTION: 14.3 L/100 KM (AUTOMATIC) - 15.5 L/100 KM (ELECTRO-ACTUATED) CO2 EMISSION: 331 G/KM (AUTOMATIC) - 360 G/KM (ELECTRO-ACTUATED)
FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MASERATI.COM
与 众 不同的配饰
让我们谈谈短袜 时尚专家 Bernhard Roetzel 解释为何新款 Scabal 短袜如此独特，并对如何寻找长裤、鞋子和短袜间的 正确颜色搭配提供了时尚建议。
作者：Bernhard Roetzel
即
使对汽车完全不感兴趣的人也知道
广泛的经典短袜
宾利 (Bentley) 之名以及它代表着什
浮华的红色、粉红色、黄色和鲜绿色短袜几 乎专属于英国的绅士和他们遍布全球的效仿
么，那就是超奢华汽车。 但只有非
短袜受到喜爱的原因是它们柔软的触感和穿
常少的人知道宾利在纺织品世界里也拥有类
戴的舒适感，但人们通常还根据材料和色彩
似的重要地位，尽管影响的方式截然不同。 的不同来选择短袜。 尽管羊毛在炎热的天 20 世 纪 50 年 代， Bentley Engineering Co. 气下穿着将更加舒适，但现在大多数人喜欢
者。 在 Sloan Ranger Style 世界里，艳丽的 短袜代表贵族的偏好，这与普通上班族的一 致性外观截然相反。 短袜礼仪的基本规则非常简单。 灰色或
Ltd. 成为世界上最大的针织机制造商。 自
棉质材料。 因此 Scabal 提供两种纺织纤维
海军蓝西装和黑色皮鞋应搭配黑色或深灰色
19 世纪工业革命以来，英国一直统治着纺织
制造的短袜，以满足每个人的品味。 100 %
短袜，绝对不能搭配棕色短袜。 如果搭配
品的世界。 但因为某些原因，英国在 20 世
美利奴极优羊毛用于 Atlantic 品质 （纱线细
灰色或海军蓝西装穿着棕色皮鞋，那么灰色
纪 70 年代和 80 年代丧失了其领导者地位， 度 22，支数 234）。 100 % 棉 Fil d’ Ecosse
或海军蓝短袜将是最佳选择。 在传统的商
但他们一度享誉盛名的机械制造公司存活了 短袜可选 Pacific 品质 （纱线细度 26，支数
业礼仪的背景下，颜色可谓子虚乌有。 颜
下来，同时幸存的还有那些纺织机器。 一些
120/2） 和 Indian 品 质 （纱 线 细 度 26， 支
色 的 搭 配 更 加 体 现 在 智 能 休 闲 装 (smart
机器已在博物馆中展出，而其他机器则仍被
数 90/2）。 羊毛短袜选择经典的罗纹设计， casual dress) 上，比如颜色鲜明的休闲上衣
用于制造优良的针织品。
而棉长筒袜则同时提供纬平针织和罗纹设计。 或休闲夹克。 低风险的短袜颜色包括酒红
英国工程机械和意大利设计
商店售卖两种长度的款式——经典的及膝
色和瓶绿色，它们非常适合搭配海军蓝休
长度和更流行的小腿长度。 色彩范围包括
闲上衣和灰色法兰绒长裤。 如果短袜的颜
保守穿着者喜爱的经典黑色，还有搭配秋冬 色与领带或口袋手绢重复，那么效果将会更 现在令人梦寐以求而且运作状态良好的 “珍
服饰穿着的棕色和米黄色。 绿色、紫红色、 好。 更大胆的皮套裤尽管颜色夸张，但适
宝 级” 机 械 的 产 出 比 现 代 化 机 械 要 少 得
紫色和海军蓝适合喜欢吸引他人注意自己脚
合搭配西装和任何类型的夹克。 它们甚至可
多，而且它们需要技术精湛的人员进行操纵。 踝的人士穿着。 最近这样的人群已从少数 与紫色的短袜、晚宴的西装搭配。 但智能 作为回报，这些机器生产的 “古典” 品质产 发展为多数客户。 但无论如何，大多数人 休闲装仍是搭配彩色短袜的首选。 较之以 品好得超乎人们的想象。 因此当 Scabal 产 在看到五彩缤纷的袜子时还是会犹豫一下的。 往，我们今天更确信这一点，因为颜色是每 套套装的关键组成部分。 当袜子完美搭配
生创造自己的奢华短袜生产线的念头时，他 们决定使用古老的宾利机器。 他们很幸运
选择正确的颜色搭配
另一件服装或配饰时，便可达到最佳的效果， 比如白色棉布裤子、蓝色休闲上衣、棕色麂
的在意大利的小工厂里找到了一些宾利机 器。 这些机器的年龄超过了 50 年，但状态
男装的历史创造出许多不同的时尚，其中包
皮鞋、薰衣草色袜子和薰衣草色 V 领毛衣。
仍堪称完美，这多亏了英国优良的工程设计
括关于腿部装饰的各种时尚。 男人应该只
您可以添加薰衣草色条纹的蓝色领带，就好
和对它们爱护有佳的意大利业主。 幸运的是， 穿深色膝盖长度袜子，这种想法非常新颖。 像蛋糕上的糖衣一般。 如果无法确定使用 他们还找到了一支专业的 “操作员” 小团队。 20 世纪 30 年代，针织行业能够提供很多颜
深色短袜还是彩色短袜来搭配休闲套装，选
他们知道如何 “手工” 制作袜子，创造人 色模式，因此着装得体的绅士将袜子的颜色
择彩色短袜总是会获得更好的效果。 如果
工缝制的足尖。 这表示未完工的袜子的缝
和领带、帽子进行搭配是一件非常正常的事
黑色或灰色短袜和经典休闲颜色 （如卡其色、
合处是手工一针一线地缝合在一起。 这项
情。 男装的黑暗时代始于 20 世纪 50 年代， 亮蓝色、海军蓝和棕色） 混搭，那么看起来
煞费苦心的劳动只能由高度训练有素的专
那时全世界的商人都开始穿着海军蓝和灰色
业人士进行，因此才能制造出非常舒适的袜
的衣服。 因此有人认为短袜应该融入黑色
子。 在此阶段，加入一根有弹力的 Filanca
的皮鞋和深色面料的长裤。 但多彩的短袜
线，以确保短袜将保持其形状。
并没有死亡，只不过从办公室里消失了而已。
将非常沮丧。
Scabal传统短袜产自意大利 © Scabal
28
这些机器 的年龄超过 了50年， 但状态仍 堪称完美， 这多亏了 英国优良的 工程设计 和对它们 爱护有佳 的意大利 业主
29
服装配 饰
严选经典
固特异工艺真皮鞋，产自意大利。 © Scabal
本季，Scabal 首次推出真皮和麂皮鞋， 以及许多其他真皮配饰如钱包和皮箱， 再次扩大了服装配饰的选择范围。短袜回归系列， 现在越来越多的现代绅士可以享受建立十足 Scabal 外观的乐趣。 30
长袜 （膝长）， “Berlin” 型号， “Pacific” 系列， 100% 棉 “Fil d’Écosse” —— 也提供美利奴极优羊毛面料款式 © Scabal
31
“Sette pieghe” 纯丝领带产自意大利， “Nº 12” 系列。 这款领带由手工折叠七次，以获得这样独特的外观。 背景 ：羊毛法兰绒面料 Nº 702811， 来自 “Flannel & Saxony” 系列 （超级 100 支）。 © Scabal
32
Suede winter glove, flannel and suede belt from the ‘Mackay’ collection, goodyear-welted suede and leather shoe, made in Italy. Background : Woolen flannel fabric Nº 702811 from the ‘Flannel & Saxony’ collection (Super 100’s). © Scabal
33
C loth Guide
Why Merino wool is so popular
N US iPad BO pad n .com /i e k o sp Be
Merino wool is the natural fibre that is most frequently used by Scabal to create its exceptional fabrics – let’s see why this wool is considered the best in the world. By Jérôme Stéfanski
Queen Elizabeth II inspecting Merino sheep at the Wagga Wagga agricultural show in 1954 © National Archives of Australia
Not all sheep are created equal
Whether the planet is warming up or cooling down, as long as you’re wearing Merino, at least you’ll always feel comfortable and look great
34
Wool has always been one of the world’s most sought-after fibres ; nothing else feels or performs quite like it. And, as it is made from nothing but grass, water and sunlight it is an entirely natural and renewal resource. But while there are many different breeds of sheep and many different kinds of wool, as far as the makers of the world’s finest suits are concerned, there is only one kind : Merino. And, for the past 200 years, the vast majority of Merino wool has come from only one country, Australia.
and even after the inevitable stress and stretching of frequent wear, will always try to return to its original shape. Thus creases stay sharp, pleats don’t deflate, lapels don’t flatten and so on. The bottom line – if you want a suit that won’t buckle under pressure, that will stand up to rough treatment, that will stay faithful to the original vision of its designer – to the look and feel which so impressed you when you first saw it – then there is no question, you want a suit made from fine Merino wool. Other suits pale by comparison
Shearing sheep’s flank wool © George Bell for Kerry and Co. Tyrrell – Collection, Powerhouse Museum, Sydney.
Some people are never satisfied
Merino sheep thrive in Australia’s often inhospitable climate. But not content with their advantage, generations of Australian farmers have used selective breeding programmes to steadily improve the quality of the fleece even further. Just as innovative, many generations of British spinners and weavers have been quick to develop new methods and technologies to maximize Australian Merino wool’s growing potential. The results of their unique and enduring partnership can be seen today in every reputable tailors and menswear store around the world – an abundance of wool of a luxurious fineness that not so long ago barely existed, transformed into fabrics that even the richest customers of yesteryear could only wear in their dreams.
doesn’t stop it ‘breathing’ ; the extraordinary cellular structure of the fibres absorbs the vapour of perspiration and moves it away from the wearer’s body. This means that in addition to keeping you warm and dry in winter a Merino suit will also keeps you cool and dry in summer. No other fibre – synthetic or natural – does this as well. No other fabric has such a seasonal bandwidth.
Of course, a large part of any suit’s aesthetic appeal is its colour and, here again, Merino enjoys an unfair natural advantage. This is because the same unique cell structure that allows the fibres to absorb water also allows them to more fully absorb dye, so the colour gets locked in and lasts the garment’s lifetime. With other fabrics the dye does not penetrate the fibres to the same degree, so over time, with repeated contact, cleaning and exposure to sunlight, the colours can fade. Think of it as the difference between writing something on your skin with a marker and having a tattoo (not that we’re suggesting for a second that you should get a tattoo as an accessory for your fine Merino suit !). Something for the weekend, sir ?
The type of yarn that provides the kind of smooth, closely woven fabrics so prized by bespoke tailors is known as ‘worsted’ yarn. And while Merino has a deserved reputation for making the world’s finest worsted suit fabrics, this has tended to eclipse Merino’s performance in other, less formal apparel. The fact is, the superior fineness of its fibres also makes it appreciably softer A suit with a million pockets and more pliant than other wools, which in turn This same absorbency of Merino fibres also makes it ideal for more loosely-knitted fabrics. makes them highly resistant to static electric- While all wool sweaters will keep you warm, one ity, which is part of the reason Merino apparel knitted from the finest Merino has a softness always ‘drapes’ or hangs so beautifully, and why which has to be felt to be believed – and what it’s less likely than cotton or synthetic fabrics to could better complement your Merino wool suit cling uncomfortably to your body. It does this or coat than a fine Merino scarf ? because – as you’d see if you examined a single, just-sheared Merino fibre under a magnifying A world of difference A suit for all seasons glass – each fibre carries a natural crimp, a tiny Not long ago, when homes and workplaces were So what is it about Merino wool that makes continuous wiggle or repeating wave which, poorly heated, heavyweight fabrics such as tweed, it such a staple of bespoke tailoring ? Why do the interlinking with the crimp of the surrounding twist cloth and heavy baratheas were essential to makers of the world’s finest apparel still consider fibres, creates millions of minute, insulating a gentleman’s winter wardrobe – and the cut and it so utterly indispensable ? The answer is both air pockets. Another reason why a fine Merino handle of these garments created a distinctive simple and, at the same time, extremely complex ; suit performs well in both hot and cold weather. seasonal look. Today, as we live more and more in in a word, it’s the fibre. It’s extremely fine, for one Think of it as natural air-conditioning ! controlled climates and the seasons blur, leading thing ; so fine, in fact, that Merino suiting is now weavers such as Scabal have skillfully recreated increasingly classified instead with the ‘Super A suit with moral fibre many of those unique winter looks in lighter S’ system that denotes the fineness of the fibre, Part of the reason wool tailors so well is a prop- infinitely more wearable fabrics made from fine starting with Super 80’s, and going up to the ne erty of its fibres known as ‘visco-elasticity’. Put merino wools. So whether the planet is warming plus ultre suiting fabric Super 250’s. Such fine- simply, this means that once a particular ‘set’ has up or cooling down, as long as you’re wearing ness means that Merino can be tightly woven been introduced to the fabric the fibre effectively Merino at least you’ll always feel comfortable and into very smooth, dense fabrics. But that density ‘remembers’ it ; so the garment resists creasing, look great. 35
T his is S cabal
SCABAL, STROMAE : LET’S DANCE ! The young singer, who is renowned worldwide thanks to his hit Alors on danse, has recently inspired Scabal. This is a meeting between music and luxury menswear, synonymous with quality, expertise and creativity. By Jérôme Stéfanski A 1970s look, reinterpreted
Around seven months ago, while Scabal was working on its new range of fabrics and garments for Winter 2012–2013, a collection stood out : ‘Capella’. Highly funk-inspired fabrics dating back to the 1970s, meticulously preserved in the drapers’ archives, ‘Capella’ is a collection that recalls the look of British college 70s, and it’s now back in fashion, thanks to Scabal and new weaving technologies. The 2012 version of ‘Capella’ has lost none of its former splendor ! ‘Capella’ is a real eye-catcher and a very special collection for fancy jacketing. The choice of 12 exceptional designs showing big checks in bright shades as flashy green, orange, blue, red and purple and bouclé yarn- decoration. The pure wool fabric with a weight of 300 g is 2 ply in warp and weft and woven in England. While Scabal was working on how best to promote this original and unique new collection, a personality spoke to the brand : Stromae. As Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen says : “Stromae is THE perfect person to bring the ‘Capella’ collection to life. This is a classy, talented and distinguished young man, who unashamedly sports a dress style that is very original and refined. His style does not seek to shock or make an impression, but rather to affirm his taste for vintage outfits that convey a timeless elegance. We are active in more than 65 countries and the international aura of Stromae corresponds perfectly with Scabal’s international dimension.” An ‘exciting and passionate’ collaboration
“When we presented him with this collection, Stromae immediately told us how delighted he was,” Thissen adds. There then followed extensive working sessions with Scabal, to breathe life into customized clothing options to underline the singer’s personality. These include open buttonhole kissing buttons, in the purest spirit of Savile Row, leather-covered buttons, and contrasts between the cuffs and jacket lining – pure colour and shimmer. 36
Project Marketing Manager Jérôme Stéfanski describes the collaboration as “exciting and passionate”. He adds : “The passion was at the heart of our meeting. Stromae was very impressed with the Scabal brand, particularly by our European manufacturing process, in which man’s hand is the creative star. For our part, we very much enjoy the singer’s personality and perfectionism that he has shown so many times on stage and backstage. Many questions were asked and long meetings were held to correlate these two exciting worlds : music and personalized clothing made from top-end fabrics.” Scabal has also created outfits for the two musicians accompanying Stromae on stage. As explained by Scabal Collections Director Olivier Vander Slock : “We provided Stromae and his team with a comprehensive wardrobe, inspired by our fabrics and the singer’s personality. Together, we have given life to a real-world garment that comes to life on stage. Our goal was that his clothes should be his music, not vice versa – a very important criterion for a singer who always puts his musical creations to the foreground.” BESPOKEN : How would you define your fashion style ? STROMAE : I would say my style is like a dandy, colourful. I love classic cuts but it is the associations of bright colours that count. What fashion accessory can you not live without ? The bow tie ? No ! The socks – these are very important when wearing loafers. How important is being ‘fashionable’ to you ? I attach almost equal importance to fashion as a music video – both are almost indispensable to my work. What does Scabal represent to you ? A passionate family company and the know-how of 75 years’ experience.
What is your favorite colour ? I don’t have one – I think that all colours have their moment of glory. It depends on so many factors. Who are the best-dressed men in the world ? I think the African ‘sapeurs’ are the best-dressed men in the world, probably because they have the intelligence not to take themselves too seriously. On what occasion did you wear your first suit ? My baptism – I think I was eight years old. What did you think of your made-to-measure experience ? It was new to me – very enjoyable and addictive.
Special occasions require special creations At the 2012 edition of the Victoires de la Musique in Paris, Stromae and his musicians, nominees in the Best Concert of the Year category, are seen proudly wearing original outfits made by Scabal. A grey flannel tuxedo (fabric 702816) is already very original, particularly when worn over flannel shorts that are also custom made ! www.stromae.org
iPad BONUS/ipad en .com sp B e ok
‘When we presented HIM WITH this collection, Stromae immediately told US how delighted he was.’ Gregor Thissen, CEO Scabal
Stromae wearing Capella collection by Scabal © Dati Photography
37
B esp o k e world
Maserati programme creates new reality A custom-made luxury car can be considered as the ultimate toy for the modern gentleman. Among the few brands that combine sport and elegance, Maserati is the genuine article. By Maurits Brands Maserati’s personalization detail © Maserati
S
etting new rules and new traditions, American-born Italian style guru Lapo Elkann embodies an intriguing personality and spirit. This grandson of Fiat’s Gianni Agnelli seems anything but a contemporary role model, yet his international lifestyle and achievements, with fashion brand Italia Independent and as director of brand promotion within the Fiat Group, take this enigma to iconic heights. Italy has given the world a great gift ; materializing emotion into discerning objects for every aspect of life. The eye of connoisseur Lapo Elkann is that of an aficionado of suits – very likely wearing Scabal fabrics from his tailor Carraceni – and obviously a fond owner of personalized cars. Lapo’s own car collection includes a Ferrari California upholstered in denim, a custom Maserati GranTurismo and a Fiat 500, ditto. “Customization is not a joke, or a philosophy, or a psychology,” he explained in the Financial Times ‘How To Spend It’ section. “If you put yourself in an environment that suits you [personally], then you’re going to have a better life — it’s as simple as that.” His matt-black Maserati certainly illustrates this sentiment with confidence, conviction and panache. A personalized made-to-measure car could well be the ultimate male accessory. The digital car configurator on the Maserati website is a perfect introduction to the possibilities of that which dreams are made on. A dynamic yet practical toy that assimilates its various parts into a visual object of desire, and the choices to be made are in the eye of the beholder. The model, exterior and interior for seats can be set in line with trim, dashboard, steering wheel, carpet, stitching and belts, with optional equipment such as a car cover, shadow lines, sound system, dual colour interior, technology and safety features. The options seem limitless. Maserati offers standard solid colours next to metallic, special colours and special matt paint and include a choice of various types of wood for the steering wheel, such as Padouk, Walnut or Wengé. The actual choices 38
Heritage, family business, workshop, and custom-made cars
are guided by official Maserati agents, who can offer professional advice. While a ‘standard’ Maserati will take around three months to deliver, special features will add another two to three months. In this sense, each car is produced made-to-measure. To fully understand the allure of this legendary brand is to drive one, just as the architecture of an excellent suit can only be completely understood when it is worn personalized, perfected and well fitted. 2011 saw the production of 6,500 cars, down from 7,800 in 2008, when the demand for vintage models was clearly growing. Some car collectors own three or more, with one particular private collector in Europe owning more than 40 of the legendary vehicles with the famous trident logo.
The Maserati headquarters are based in Modena, Italy. In 1993, Fiat S.P.A. became the new owner. The history of the brand officially began on 1 December 1914, and it enjoyed a golden age from 1937–67. The family story actually goes back to 1900 – the Maserati brothers (Alfieri, Bindo, Carlo, Ettore and Ernesto) were all involved with automobiles from the beginning of the 20th century. Craftsmanship and passion, technique and innovation lie at the heart of building a reputation of excellence, with trial and error generating perseverance and perfection. In 1929 the V4 appeared, with its 16-cylinder engine, making its debut at the Italian Grand Prix and setting the world Class C speed record over 10 kilometres at 246.069km per hour.
iPad BONUS/ipad en .com
Bespok
The Maserati brothers at the original workshop in Bologna, in the 1920’. © Maserati
The assembly line of the Maserati 3500 GT in Modena’s workshop, 1958. © Maserati
The assembly of the Maserati Granturismo © Maserati
Maserati GranTurismo Sport © Maserati
Dominating the race scene, Maserati set new standards, spurred on by competitors such as Mercedes, Alpha Romeo and Ferrari. 1954 saw the debut of the 250F, which won the Argentine Grand Prix on its debut. Production of the 3500 GT, which was launched in 1958, began an important new era for Maserati and the plant had to be expanded – producing cars and sales became the main goals and Maserati’s racing activities took a back seat, but what never changed was the company’s uncanny eye for detail.. Even today, every part of each Maserati is inspected carefully and precisely with a magnifying glass, using white gloves. The Quattroporte, the first Maserati four-door saloon, with a 90° V8 engine and a displacement
of 4,136 cc was launched in 1963 and will be replaced on its fiftieth birthday in 2013. The company will highlight the preparations for future developments, but is equally quite shy about revealing further details. As Maserati heads towards its 100th birthday in 2014, today it is striving towards a new future.
To fully understand the allure of this legendary brand is to drive one, just as the architecture of an excellent suit can only be completely understood when it is worn personalized, perfected and well fitted
39
ONE for THE LADIES 41
48
12 WOMEN WHO BRIT GIRL CHANGED THE POWER FACE OF THE BESPOKE GIFTS FOR HER WORLD 51
44
LUDOVICA CARBOTTA : A NEW VISION OF THE CITY 46
SMALL SAMPLES, BIG RESULTS
40
53
58
A LADY BEHIND COGNAC
CHANGING TIMES ON ‘THE ROW’ : WOMEN TAILORS STEP FORWARD
54
RANA THARU : NEPAL’S PRINCESSES
60
CELEBRATING 40th ANNIVERSARY OF THE CAL™
SPEC IAL FE ATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
12 women who changed the face of the world This edition of Bespoken is dedicated to women – here, we select 12 to allow us to consider the lady in every woman. Age is not the issue, while virtue and courage, elegance, willpower, insight, achievement, personality and style rightfully are. Our tribute to all women worldwide. By Maurits Brands 4. COCO CHANEL (1883–1971) 1. CLEOPATRA (69 BC–30BC)
As one of the most innovative fashion designers, Coco Chanel defined feminine style and dress sense during the 20th century. Her ideas were revolutionary, often taking traditionally male clothes and redesigning them for women. The marketing side of her business remains equally appealing, combining quality products, promotion and a sense of flair. Chanel Nº5 remains one of the bestselling perfumes of all time. During her lifetime she was used as a character in works of western fiction, which eventually made it difficult for historians to determine the true facts of her life.
Refined intelligence, beauty and brains. The last Ptolemaic ruler of Egypt, Cleopatra sought to defend Egypt from the expanding Roman Empire. She formed relationships with two of Rome’s most powerful leaders, Marc Anthony and Julius Caesar. These relationships have been depicted in Romantic terms, although they purely may have been political alliances, while Elizabeth Taylor personified her character in the 1963 movie, confirming the ongoing allure of political ambition into global conscience. 2. CALAMITY JANE (1852–1903) Martha Jane Cannary (Canary) Burke became known as Calamity Jane, an American frontiers woman. A professional scout best known for her claim of being an acquaintance of Wild Bill Hickok – a folk hero of the Old West – and for having gained fame fighting Native Americans. She is said to have exhibited kindness and compassion, especially to the sick and needy.
3. MARIE CURIE (1867–1934)
Science makes perfection. The first women to receive the Nobel Prize and the first person to win it in two separate categories. Her first award was for research into radioactivity, her second for chemistry. A few years later, she also helped develop the first X-ray machines. It would save lives, and even make an artist such as Man Ray artistically very happy, dazzling audiences with his ‘Ray-o-Grams’.
5. ROSA PARKS (1913–2005) One of the most respected figures in civil-rights movements, Rosa Louise McCauley Parks was an African-American civil rights activist, whom the U.S. Congress called ‘the first lady of civil rights’ as well as ‘the mother of the freedom movement’. Her personae and act of defiance became an international icon of resistance to 41
racial segregation. Rosa Parks worked strongly with other civil rights leaders, including Martin Luther King, Jr., helping to launch him to national prominence within the American civil rights movement.
6. EVITA PERÓN (1919–1952) Often simply referred to as Eva Perón, or affectionately just by her first name Evita, Argentinean María Eva Duarte de Perón made her name as one of the first celebrity politicians of the early 20th century, as she became powerful within the pro-Peronist trade unions for speaking on behalf of labour rights. The year 1951 saw her candidacy for the Peronist nomination for the office of vice president of Argentina. Forced to withdraw her candidacy due to opposition and health issues, Eva Perón was granted the title of ‘Spiritual Leader of the Nation’ by the Argentine Congress in 1952 shortly before her death.
8. MARILYN MONROE (1926–1962) Norma Jeane Mortensen Baker became one of the most iconic film legends, probably the most famous and celebrated women of our time, using her stage name Marilyn Monroe. If Gentlemen Prefer Blondes – as the title of one of her movies declares – than she definitely embodies the form and spirit of her character, often playing up to the fictional ‘dumb blonde’ cliché. Married three times, all of which ended in divorce, all she ever really wanted was to please the world and be happy. 9. BRIGITTE BARDOT (1934–) This French former fashion model, actress and singer became a prominent animal-rights activist after her acting career that included the controversial And God Created Woman by her (then) husband Roger Vadim. On the one hand, Bardot is recognized for popularizing bikini swimwear in her early films, during many appearances at Cannes, and various photo shoots, next to popularizing St. Tropez in the south of France and modeling for the bust of Marianne, a recognized French symbol; on the other, she has courted controversy in fighting for animal rights and attacking immigration in France, while leading a private, secluded life. 10. OPRAH WINFREY (1954–)
7. MARGARET THATCHER (1925–)
11. BARBIE (1959–)
With her full fictional name Barbara Millicent Roberts, popularly known as a first-name-celebrity, Barbie, this fashion doll is manufactured by the American toy-company Mattel, Inc. and launched in March 1959. Barbie has played an important part of the toy doll market for more than fifty years, projecting perfect form, and has been the subject of numerous controversies, one of the most common criticisms of Barbie being that she promotes an unrealistic idea of body image for young women. Leading a perfect enriched life, full of dreams and ambitions, including her realistic ‘on-off’ relationship with her boyfriend Ken. 12. J.K. ROWLING (1965–) The author of the phenomenal best-selling series about Harry Potter – her success has been so immense, it has been credited with leading the revival of reading by children. She wrote the first book as a single mother, struggling to make ends meet, while the books, films and merchandise has generated a fortune among Britain’s richest. She has become a notable philanthropist, supporting such charities as Comic Relief and One Parent Families. In September 2012, her first adult novel will be published, entitled The Casual Vacancy.
Remembered for her emphasis on individual responsibility and belief in free markets, the first female prime minister of Great Britain, Mrs Thatcher defined a decade. This ‘Iron Lady’ fought her own battles, setting a different agenda, new standards unlike any other previous political leader. Standing tall against opposition, she developed close relationships with the USA but was far more sceptical of European integration. In her own league, a league of her own. Oprah Winfrey is a media proprietor, talk-show host, actress, producer and philanthropist. Best known for her self-titled, multi-award-winning talk show, which has become the highest-rated programme of its kind in history and is widely syndicated, she has broken many taboos, though has been criticized for unleashing confession culture, promoting controversial self-help ideas and emotion-centered approaches. 42
And of course, not forgetting Princess Diana, Aung San Suu Kyi, Liliane Bettencourt, Janis Joplin, Madonna, Yoko Ono, Grace Kelly, Mère Théresa, Audrey Hepburn, Marge Simpson, Jackie Kennedy, Anna Wintour, Edith Piaf... and there are exceptional women all around you.
Established in 1929 in Antwerp, the diamond capital of the world, Geretti manufactures fine jewellery combining artisanal craftsmanship, creative design and modern technology to obtain a brilliant result. Visit our boutique and discover the beauty of a natural diamond. You can choose from our permanent collection or help us create the jewel of your dreams. This season Boucheron, the first jeweler of the Place Vendôme, creates the Black Edition of the famous Quatre ring. This new item is available in four versions all using the new look combined with the famous design of a ring first presented in 2004 and a huge success since then. Discover the timeless elegancy of the house of Boucheron from Paris at Geretti and enjoy the fruitful partnership of a legendary jewellery designer and an Antwerp diamond dealer.
Geretti Jewellery & Diamonds Antwerp
Appelmansstraat 2a – 2018 Antwerp – Belgium T +32(0)3 234 29 05 www.geretti.be
SPECI AL FEATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
Ludovica Carbotta : A NEW VISION OF THE CITY Scabal has always developed a privileged relationship with plastic art. Remember in 1971, when the brand asked Salvador Dali to create 12 paintings, his vision of 21st century menswear ? This time, Scabal is betting on artist Ludovica Carbotta, daughter of Raffaele Carbotta, who has been in charge of Scabal’s Accessories’ line for more than 20 years. By Cécile de Forton Young and famous in the art world, Ludovica Carbotta is 30 years old and already showing her art pieces in the most renowned galleries – just last year, she took part in the Dublin Contemporary Art Fair. Born in 1982 in Torino, she is very attached to her country and it is mostly from her home town that she takes inspiration. The starting point for the artist’s work is an analysis of the city as a context, and of sculpture as medium. In April 2011, she won the 5th Ariane de Rothschild Prize. Thanks to this award, she was offered a one-year scholarship at the Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Living between London and Torino, Ludovica is confident about her future.
INTERVIEW
Bespoken : When and how did your passion for art begin ? LC : In a very unconscious way, I would say. When I was young, I loved drawing and painting and then it grew in time. Of course, my parents had an influence on me as they are both creative persons and were always free to organize their career. They constantly encouraged me to follow my dreams and passions. My father, Raffaele, has been working in the fashion industry for more than 20 years. In charge of Scabal accessories, he also contributed to my choice of pushing myself in the creative direction. 44
Tempo Imperfetto, Ludovica Carbotta, 2010, 110 250 250 cm © Maurizio Elia
What are the main messages in your work ? It’s hard to say. All my work is a work in progress. By creating, I discover. My main interest is to experience something. I’m especially attracted by experiencing the building space and the city. I see the city as an object made by people, but which is difficult to understand. I am fascinated by the possibility of interactions that can happen between people. In fact, cities are the materialisation of people themselves.
My aim is to feel this materiality in order not to consider a city as a pre-existing shape. I am also interested by the different ways to express my work. I mainly do sculpture, but I am also involved in photography and video, which enable to transfer the experience. I don’t usually start with a definite project, but with an inspiration that is developed through a physical experience that accepts randomness and accidents.
Let’s talk about two of your art pieces. What was your objective with Tempo Imperfetto ? This piece is a reconstruction of the Cappella della S.S Sindone, a baroque church, designed by Guarino Guarini. It is based on a photograph. I used wooden waste materials to build the reconstruction. I tried to rebuild the inner dome in order to experience myself in the highest part of the church, which is physically inaccessible. My objective was to formalize the space, while meanwhile I materialized it. Therefore, I turned the view upside down. This time, the dome was constructed on the ground. When I started to build the dome, I didn’t have any project. It was
total improvisation. By becoming bigger, the structure finally put me out. When I finished it, I was out of it. My experience was over. The state of emptiness invested in the piece is a legacy of my experience. What can you say about Imitazione ? I started by doing the cast of my footprints in clay in order to give a material and permanent shape to the presence of my body on the earth. I then added a column in a standard architectural shape. I put as much material as my weight. My purpose was to figure how much space I could occupy in a human dimension. Each sculpture can be
seen as a self-portrait. I repeated this process with different external factors : the consistency of the ground and clay. I was curious about my relationship with the ground and the different possibilities of shapes. Each Imitazione is different from the next, as every trace is unique, being the result of an unrepeatable event. What keeps you passionate ? I trust my work ; I am convinced and proud of it. I make no difference between all my art pieces. If I had to choose my favourite I would say it was Tempo Imperfetto. It enabled me to discover something more. It was a step-by-step process that I experienced. Something remains. What is your best achievement ? When I took part in the Dublin Contemporary Art Fair in 2011 for its first edition. A great international artistic context ! What are the places that inspire you the most ? The places where I live in Torino, because I can experience them every day. How is your Masters in Fine Art in London coming along ? It’s really different from Torino. It’s a more stressful life. A lot of things happen in the art world in London. You can attend five shows in a day if you want ! Sometimes, it’s difficult to figure out what you are interested in. I’m having an enriching experience and it’s a good occasion to confront the architecture in Torino and London. The Masters doesn’t impose strict rules and it doesn’t change my way of thinking. It’s great to create new relationships with teachers and other students. How do you see your future ? I want to follow my passion in art. I hope I will succeed ! After my Masters, I plan to go back to Italy. In the future, I would be glad to discover new cities and live abroad. Belgium, Holland and also New York are very attractive places.
‘In charge of Scabal accessories for more than 20 years, my father has also contributed to my choice of pushing myself in the creative direction.’ Ludovica Carbotta
Imitazione, Ludovica Carbotta, 2010–2011, series of sculpture, variable dimensions © Maurizio Elia
45
SPECI AL FEATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
Small samples, big results Scabal’s fully integrated production process requires highly skilled and passionate people. Let’s have a look at a key department that’s run by two ladies with one key mission – customer service. By Nigel Bishop
Some of the thousands of small fabrics samples listed by the Small Samples department © Scabal
It’s called the “small samples” department but there’s nothing diminutive about the role that Anne Delain and Joëlle Prévinaire play in Scabal’s business. “We prepare samples of the new collections for wholesalers and buyers around the world” says Anne, who has been with Scabal in the Brussels headquarters for 25 years. “We have to get these pre-samples out six months before the collections are launched. It’s a battle against time”
With hundreds of different patterns and fabrics in each collection (winter 2012/13 has 372) and hundreds of customers worldwide, there’s plenty of work for the two ladies on the 5th floor. First, Joëlle orders 2.20-metre pieces of each new fabric from the mill ; she then cuts 10 x 6 cm samples in the cutting room, puts on the labels and assembles packets for each collection. Preparing full sets of pre-samples takes about two months for both the summer and winter collections.
Selling in
Scabal has been pre-sampling this way for more than 50 years. Getting cloth into buyers’ hands early is vital for preparing the ground and creating demand for the following season’s collection. “We also make special presentation samples for Scabal salesmen here in the Brussels showrooms” says Anne. 46
Daily requests
In between preparing pre-samples, the team is kept busy by its second and equally important role ; daily management of sample requests from the Scabal sales network. “Every day we are asked to provide a fabric sample for many customers worldwide. We go to our files, find the match, and make up an individual sample.”
Providing a sample service like this requires dedication and faultless organization, which is why Anne and Joëlle maintain immaculate archiving for more than 5,000 fabrics. Pre-sampling every collection, responding to daily demands for samples and archiving the entire Scabal collection is a non-stop service. “What you need most for this job is vitality and energy” admits Anne. Luckily for Scabal, these two ladies have both.
Anne Delain (left) and Joëlle Prévinaire from the Small Samples department of Scabal © Scabal
‘We have to get these presamples out six months before the collections are launched. It’s a battle against time’ Anne Delain
47
SPECI AL FEATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
Brit girl power
While Stella McCartney is influenced by men’s fashion for her feminine creations, Vivienne Westwood is inspired by fashion in which women create outfits for men. A chance to meet these two fashion designers with very British influences. By Federico Grandesso
Stella McCartney
48
Vivienne Westwood
Stella McCartney – Autumn-Winter 2012 / 2013 collection © FirstView
Stella McCartney, wearing an oversized coat – menswear influence
Stella McCartney
I
t’s not by chance that one becomes a famous fashion designer if you have Edward Sexton, the reference Savile Row tailor as a tutor and, before college, you had your internship with a name such as Christian Lacroix. McCartney is certainly talented – her graduation collection at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of London in 1995 was a triumph, particularly with the presence of models and friends such as Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and others on the catwalk. The success of the show was completed by a song called Stella My Day by her father Paul and, obviously, the collection sold very quickly to a top-list boutique in London as the press celebrated this rising new star of fashion. The young Stella was already a star and, after only two years in 1997 was appointed creative director of Chloé in fashion capital Paris. But the beginning was not so easy, following the somewhat sceptical comments made by ‘Kaiser’ Karl Lagerfeld, who once said: “Chloé should have taken a big name. They did, but in music, not fashion. Let’s hope she’s as gifted as her father.” But Stella’s success was confirmed by international critics and by sales, so she left Chloé in the safe hands of her friend Phoebe Philo to make the most important and brave choice for a fashion designer, to launch an ‘own brand’. In 2001, McCartney launched her own fashion house in a joint venture with Gucci Group (which is now the PPR Luxury Group) and presented her first collection in Paris. In 2003 Stella, like other intelligent designers, understood that it was time to diversify, and she launched her first perfume, Stella. Her interest in human rights and the protection of the environment was confirmed by her launch in January 2007 of her 100% organic skincare line, CARE. Despite her own discreet personality,
Vivienne Westwood
her collections attract the stars of music and cinema – by 2004, she had designed clothes for Madonna’s Re-Invention Tour, Annie Lennox’s summer tour, and Gwyneth Paltrow’s and Jude Law’s costumes for the film Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow. Interested in the world of sport as well, Stella demonstrated her versatile talent and was nominated Team Great Britain’s Creative Director for the 2012 Olympics by Adidas, the first time that a leading fashion designer has designed the outfits for a country’s team across all competitions for both the Olympic and Paralympic Games. A woman’s collection with a man’s touch
Her minimal and masculine style brought the image of successful, self-confident women to the catwalk, even with masculine pieces such as jackets and trousers that still revealed their feminine side. It’s therefore no surprise to learn that McCartney orders Scabal’s fabrics for her women’s creations – for the Autumn-Winter 2012–2013 season, Stella has created a collection that’s dedicated to the modern, dynamic woman. “The Stella woman has a balanced nature,” as she explained after her show. According to the designer, the collection mixes the ideas of urban and rural fashion, along with day and night chic. The result is a collection in which elegance meets functionality, with extremely stylish looks.
‘I have always put deep convictions into my fashion’ Vivienne Westwood
D
efining the personality of Vivienne Westwood is a tough job, because you will probably miss explaining or presenting key parts of a complex world that includes fashion, art, political engagement and much more. Someone said that Westwood personifies the potent and subversive originality of British fashion – her continual exploration and reinterpretation of history, combined with a tireless individualism, has cemented her reputation as the UK’s most culturally significant fashion designer. Her expansive body of work traces the socioeconomic and cultural climate of Britain over the past four decades, and a cursory glance through her archive also highlights the paradox of her career : an ascent from teenage rebellion through luxury and decadence to global commercial success. The first inspiration from Vivienne, as far as fashion was concerned, was Punk. She met Malcom McLaren in 1965 and with him they explored a plethora of new political and artistic ideas that continue to influence her work, even today. The constantly evolving vision of Westwood and McLaren was brought to a wider public in 1971, when they took over a now-legendary shop at 430 Kings Road, London. The site was a work-in-progress with a frequently changing name and merchandise that switched styles constantly as it reflected and launched London’s subcultural currents. As Punk gradually began to influence the mainstream, the couple looked towards romanticism, heroism even, in fashion design. By 1986, she began to take an interest in the clothes and fabrics of the British establishment. Her Harris Tweed collection of 1987 was named after the woolen fabric woven in the Western Isles of Scotland and took its inspiration from Savile Row tailors, incorporating a variety of tweeds, including the traditional Tattershall 49
check and red barathea. Affectionately parodying the establishment, these clothes evoked the aristocracy, boarding school and country houses; hunting, shooting and fishing; and in Westwood’s interpretation, inevitably declared sexuality under the constriction of British understatement. Female interpretation of men’s fashion – climate change
In 1996, Westwood launched ‘Man’, her menswear label, during the Milan Fashion Week. The essence of her style remains in the iconic quote: “It is not possible for a man to be elegant without a touch of femininity.” This was the starting point, because she took the statement brilliantly to its extremes with not only a man in skirt, following the Scottish tradition, but even a man wearing feminine sexy mini-skirts and provocative ‘women only’ evening dresses. She reinterpreted the role of men in fashion by breaking the static borders, such as men finally showing their legs like a woman. Very few fashion designers put politics into their work – Westwood is a leading example. She is active in creating awareness of the disastrous consequences of climate change – in her last autumn-winter 2012–2013 masculine collection, she took her inspiration from the natural history TV programme Frozen Planet, a BBC series by David Attenborough. As she explained: “Our collection is in support of David Attenborough’s documentary series, The Frozen Planet, which will go to America but unfortunately without the final episode where he explains that we humans are responsible for the ice melt,” the designer said in the show notes. “So we took the polar explorers as our heroes and we love polar bears. Barack Obama never mentions the words climate change.” Her statement continues : “How impossible it is for us to imagine ourselves victims of disaster. We suffer for the poor people who were thrown into the sea from their cruise ship off the
Exclusive interview with fashion designer Vivienne Westwood BESPOKEN : How do you spread your message ? VIVIENNE WESTWOOD : I have always put deep convictions into my fashion. Around six years ago, I asked myself what would I say to young people today and I decided that I would want to talk to them about propaganda. I started to design T-shirts with graphics all about this. I can use my credibility in the fashion system and address my message during my fashion shows. I wrote then a manifesto that states : “If you become an art lover, you are a freedom fighter for a better world because you are starting to think and you get off to the consumer trend mill and you invest time on going to look at a beautiful painting, to the theatre or listening to good music.” The theme of the manifesto is ‘culture is the antidote to propaganda’ and we are dangerously short of culture. Talking about climate change, which actions are you engaged in? First of all, I think that you can do only one thing at the time, the first thing to do is to try to do something to save the rain forests and to do this we need the help of public opinion. I’m trying to help the charity Cool Hearth, which was founded by Frank Field, a very principled politician who has a project to save the forests.
coast of Tuscany, some losing their lives. Imagine a world of accelerating natural disasters, one after the other, so that nobody can help anyone
Vivienne Westwood – Autumn-Winter 2012 / 2013 collection (© GoRunway)
50
What are your thoughts on the numerous climate change summits? Are they useful? For so long now all our leaders have been concentrated on the financial crisis instead of the climate crisis and these are almost presented as being in opposition to each other, ie you can’t save the planet because there is a financial crisis. The real point is that the financial crisis is the symptom of a problem that is climate change; understanding that we will never solve this issue and the situation will become worse and worse. We need different values; I think that we are an endangered species and within one or two generations, the human race as well as other animals will be extinct. You talked before about the financial crisis, how do you perceive the crisis? It’s quite clear that the world is already bankrupt and that growth means death. We must remember that economics is not a science; it’s an agreement and a consensus. As long as people agree, death will remain its value. But the financial situation will collapse. We should consider how to change our financial structure, I think that banks should not be allowed to make profits and that they should provide a service, it’s already happening that banks are separating from the investment sections and this must continue.
else.” Westwood ends : “Public opinion is the only thing that will save us.”
Temptations
BESPOKE GIFTS FOR HER Christmas, birthdays, Mother’s Day and Valentine’s… it’s not always easy to satisfy your lady with original gifts. Flowers, jewels, perfumes, chocolates and fine lingerie are the most popular women’s gifts. ‘Quite boring,’ she says ? Bespoken shows you the way to impress her with some exclusive presents, and never forget that the best gift will be one that is offered spontaneously, without any occasion. By Cécile de Forton
My ring, my personality Offer your loved one an extension of her personality. As homage to her daughter Théa, Emilie Duchêne gave the same name to her new creation : the Théa ring. Yellow, white or rose gold, it’s up to you. A five-letter word, five figures or both, the choice is yours. An absolute temptation, an irresistible charm.
An incomparable bag Pick her favourite colour, add her initials and design a unique bag or luggage for her. Mon Monogram is a personal service for special women. Pegase, Neverfall, Speedy, Keepall – these four iconic models can be stylized to your taste with colour lines in 17 different shades ! Price : 30% more than the original price of the bag www.louisvuitton.com
Price : 460 – 510 € www.thea-rings.com
From Paris with love About to propose or commemorate your wedding ? The Medaille du Mariage is what you are looking for. This precious collection was created by famous designer Christian Lacroix. Because your partner is unique, inscribe a personal message on the reverse. Last but not least, the premium line invites you to add diamonds to make it even more special. Price : from 450 € www.monnaiedeparis.fr
Lovely in Burberry Having a Burberry trench coat is a must. Having a customized Burberry trench coat is unique. Go to the website and follow Bespoke – colour, shape, buttons, label with personal message… make it the one for your loved one ! Millions of combinations are possible. Price : From 1,500 – 8,500 € www.burberry.com/store/bespoke
Her fragrance is her power Has she been wearing the same one for years ? Surprise her with a harmonious, poetic and original perfume made especially for her. L’Artisan Parfumeur has concocted singular delicate scents since 1976 – authenticity and innovation for a perfume that will last. Price : 70 € (100 ml) www.artisanparfumeur.com
51
‘Cognac is sexless, all it requires is work.’ Pierrette Trichet, Remy Martin
French Cellar Master Pierrette Trichet taking care of the Remy Martin’ cognac cellar © Remy Martin
52
SPEC IAL FE ATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
A lady behind cognac
Her career in the cognac world is impressive. Pierrette Trichet has been working for the brand Rémy Martin for over 36 years. Without any rival, she became the first woman Cellar Master. By Cécile de Forton
Born in the land of D’Artagnan, the fourth musketeer, Pierrette got the love of the land thanks to her father, a wine-grower. Once she got her baccalaureate, the young woman started studying biochemistry and biological analysis at university. Both scientifically-minded and close to the land, Pierrette Trichet was noticed by Rémy Martin at the age of 20 and was offered her first job. An employer that she will never leave. In 1993, she joins the prestigious “tasting committee”. Very much appreciated for her work and patience, she becomes the Cellar Master assistant in 2000. Recognized for her “nose”, Pierrette Trichet works on all stages of the creation of cognacs. Three years later, it’s time for consecration. That’s it, she is the Cellar Master and is proud to be THE only one woman worldwide who holds this position with a major producer of cognac. BESPOKEN : Could you please explain the different steps of the creation of cognac ? PIERRETTE TRICHET : Rémy Martin’s cognac is elaborated in the two best regions of France : Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne. It’s a human business before everything. The best wine, coming from the finest grapes is distilled with yeast and turns into an eau-de-vie. Then, the Cellar Master selects the tastiest eaux-de-vie. A long phase of ageing in barrels made from oak from the Limousin forests starts. This step, of 4 years minimum, can last for decades. It enables the eaux-de-vie to develop a wide palette of flavours : vanilla, honey, etc. Once the eaux-devie are mature enough, the Cellar Master makes blends. A whole aromatic universe is created. In which countries is cognac more drunk ? Everywhere in the world but at 80 % in the Asian continent, particularly in China and Vietnam. Asian consumers are attracted by its history. They often give it as a present. For them, it means the access to a high social category and the entry in the luxury world. USA is a big market as well where we always have to innovate. Cognac is drunk in different ways depending on the
culture. In the United Stated, cognac is appreciated as a cocktail meanwhile Chinese people love to taste it with ice. Europe is an important market but the competition is hard among the many other hard liquors available. Could you describe the typical cognac amateur ? The cognac amateur is always looking for a tasting and aromatic experience. He’s an epicurean. Cognac appeals all senses. It brings a personal pleasure and is also a way to share a moment of joy with friends. The taboos need to be broken. Young people are cognac lovers. They enjoy it as a cocktail or with ice. Cognac is a hard liquor but with an aromatic complexity on top. Do women appreciate cognac as many men do ? For some women, cognac can be too strong like other alcohols. That’s why we created Cœur de Cognac, a special blend with sweet notes like apricot. They are very welcome to add ice in their glass to make it even softer. Which qualities made you become a Cellar Master ? First of all, your mission is to taste. Nothing has to be taken for granted. You always have to take a new look at yourself. Then you need to be rigorous, passionate and patient. It takes ages to make a cognac. The creation that I am more proud about is the “Louis XIII” cognac, which is made by four generations of cognac. You also have to be a good team-player as well as independent. Each year, I have to recreate cognacs. Last but not least, humility is a must. A Cellar Master isn’t eternal, one day I’ll have to step down… Wasn’t it too hard to enter in a world where men have a majority ? Cognac is sexless, all it requires is work. I became Cellar Master thanks to my qualities. It doesn’t matter if you are a man or a woman. As women, it’s our role to show our innovation and audacity. Yes, there has been some remarks but from other cognac houses. Recently, I nominated a woman as my assistant. I chose her because she responds
to what I was looking for. Women have a different sensibility regarding cognac. Which combinations of food and cognac are your favourites ? The combination of foie gras and XO on ice is sumptuous. And I am very fond of chocolate combined with a neat XO. Are you one of those who regard diluting a cognac as a sacrilege ? A sacrilege ? Everyone has the right to drink their cognac in the way they prefer it. When I assemble a cognac, what I hope is that the consumers will get pleasure from drinking it. It is of no importance that it is drunk neat, on ice, in a cocktail or during a meal to accompany a starter or a dessert. The cognacs that I create are all different and suit the largest number of people because they can be personalized.
The world’s Cognac market Number of bottles consumed per year : 162.84 million Annual turnover from Cognac sales : 2,049,000,000 € 5 bottles of Cognac are sold worldwide every second. World’s top five Cognac consumers : 1. United States ; 2. China ; 3. United Kingdom ; 4. Germany ; 5. France Cognac varieties : VS (Very Special) – Minimum two years’ aging VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) – Minimum four years’ aging XO (Extra Old) – Minimum six years’ aging About Remy Martin : All over the world, Cognac is a symbol of the French lifestyle. And in the Cognac universe, Rémy Martin is considered the benchmark, the house that produces the best grapes, harvested from the best vineyards. Surely yet gradually, the fame of the centaur brand has spread, first throughout Europe, then in the East, and most recently in the Americas. The fact that Rémy Martin is the only large Cognac house with a family ownership pays homage to the character, determination, spirit of innovation, and ability to adapt that has passed through generations in the Rémy Martin clan.
53
SPECIAL FEA TURE : ONE FOR T HE L A DIES
Rana Tharu : Nepal’s princesses
Somewhere in the world, a community exists that is entirely run by women. Let’s discover it… Text and pictures by Bruno Morandi
Rhana Taru : where women and nature live together
54
At a time when the Indian sari triumphs among most tribes, here, the clothing tradition continues
A
long the wide river, a few wading birds watch intently, like fixed white statues. In water up to their stomachs, a group of women in a tight row moves forward, pushing a shrimping net. Their prey is the alevin, which afterwards the women will dry in the sun. On one side of the river, the vast and dense Indian jungle, on the other, the fishing people have marked their territory : a few villages and farms adjacent to the meanderings of the river. History
In the far east of Nepal, far from Katmandu, legend and history join to recount how five centuries ago women of royal blood immigrated from Rajasthan (India) with their children and servants. The men remained behind to defend the Rajput kingdoms against the Muslim invaders. These women settled in the forests at the foot of the Himalayas and took their servants as partners, while establishing a matriarchal social system, and organising family and village affairs. These are the Rana Tharu. They belong to the Tharu tribe, which populates the vast plain of Teraï. The origins of this tribe are mysterious : although Mongoloid characteristics have been detected in them, the linguistic substratum and the social organization may link them to the tribes of central India. 55
A land-clearing, farming and fishing people, the Rana Tharu adapted themselves and tamed the vast forests of the Teraï to such a degree that the government has been obliged to create national parks to protect endangered animals. They are accustomed to heat and have the reputation of being immune to paludism – their only recognized territorial unit is the village. Bespoke cloth tradition
Here, it is the women who rise up as guardians of the traditions and combat assimilation into an Indo-Nepalese culture. Unlike other ethnic groups of Nepal, they make their exceptional costumes themselves. At a time when the Indian sari triumphs among most tribes, here, the clothing tradition continues. The design of their very colourful costume, adorned with embroidery and mirrors, as well as their silver jewellery, is very close to the dress style adopted in Rajasthan. Of course, the fabrics and colours have changed according to current fashions. Like armour, the heavy silver jackets made of old Indian one rupee pieces are part of the daily jewellery of the Rana Tharu. The bronze anklets that they wear can weigh 700–800 grammes on each leg. And another rare thing in this prudish land, the Rana Tharu women reveal much of their body. While their legs, back and stomach are naked, they nevertheless slip a black veil over their head to hide their faces before strangers in the village. Their short and full skirts, the lahunga, and their jewellery, which highlights their calves gives them an upright, proud and graceful air. Contrary to the more restricted gait that the sari imposes, they walk with long strides. Keep men away
With the Rana Tharu, custom separates the men from the women. Times when they rub shoulders are rare. Meals are had separately ; work is divided. The men often work in the closest towns, a few hours walk away. More often in contact with the outside world they have swapped their loincloths and twill shirts for the universal jean and T-shirt. Men and women meet up during the festivals that punctuate the seasons. Life in colours
Early this morning a muted percussion rhythm amplified by the thick, end of winter fog announces the start of the festivities. On this day of a full moon in the month of Phagun (March), Holi begins, the festival of spring, colours, renewal and love. This festival was inspired by the Bhagavad Gita, the great Hindu epic, when Krishna, Vishnu’s avatar, in the company of his 16,108 legitimate wives, threw coloured liquids at each other to celebrate the return of spring. 56
Did you know ? Not far from where the Rana Tharu community lives, the high valleys of the Himalayan province of Kashmir produce cashmere, one of the most famous soft wool in the world, made from Pashmina goats. To protect themselves from the winter’s chill (as low as –30° C), the goats produce a second layer that doubles their wool, and in spring the wool is removed. The growing economic attractiveness of the production of this wool has been widely developed in Mongolia and the Chinese provinces of Tibet and Inner Mongolia. This exceptional quality cashmere is used by Scabal to make knitwear accessories and also superb fabrics for coats, jackets and suits.
In the spacious entrance to her house, the space reserved for stocking grain and a cool refuge from the murderous sun, Batasu has been preparing for this festival for several weeks, spending her days making a new lahunga. At 16, she is already thinking of getting married, and Holi is the ideal occasion to meet young suitors. Today, she will devote her day to practicing the dances that will begin at sunset. Before anything else, as every day, the household tasks must be carried out – fetching water, sweeping the courtyard, preparing the dal bhat, rice and lentils that will be eaten with the other women of the clan. The river is the first meeting place. At length she bathes, washes her hair and cleans her skirt, bolero and veil in the company of her friends. Back at the village, other young girls help Batasu in the complex makings of her coiffure. After putting on her new garment and silver ornaments, she carefully puts on her makeup, under her mother’s tender gaze. Late in the afternoon, the drums start up again, and young guys cross the village – it’s the call to the party. Out of flirtatiousness, the young girls keep them waiting, then arrive timidly in small groups. The sun loses some of its intensity. In groups of four the dancers take their place, in a circle, two drums in the centre. Batasu hesitates before mingling with the boys. The beer and rice alcohol starts to flow. Laughter mixes in with the singing. Hands brush against one another ; eyes meet. The party continues this way for eight straight nights. Each night in the courtyard of a different house, and each night the dancing continues into the early hours of the morning.
www.ambiorix.be
rue de namur 72 , Brussels leopoldstraat 14, antwerp
SPECI AL FEATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
CHANGING TIMES ON ‘THE ROW’ : WOMEN TAILORS STEP FORWARD Scabal provides its fabrics to the most renowned tailors worldwide – the majority are men, but there are also some dynamic women, such as Kathryn Sargent and Emma Martin from Savile Row, London. By Janet Prescott
Confirmed talent : Kathryn Sargent, Golden Shears winner
Kathryn Sargent
Kathryn Sargent’s workshop © Janet Prescott Kathryne Sargent Bespoke Tailoring No.6 Sackville Street Mayfair – London W1S 3DD United Kingdom T. +44 (0) 20 7734 7136 www.kathrynsargent.com
58
Kathryn Sargent, Master Tailor, winner of the prestigious Golden Shears award for the best womenswear, has a high profile, striking out on her own at the beginning of 2012 to set up her eponymous business providing luxury tailoring for men and women in the elegant premises of erstwhile tailors to Beau Brummel, Meyer & Mortimer in Sackville Street. Kathryn has moved on to develop her business after 15 years at Gieves & Hawkes, where she became head cutter. Kathryn puts her success down to changing times : “The trade is generally a little bit less secretive, tailors such as Ozwald Boateng and Richard James use marketing companies and clients are more aware of different options. Women would have been regarded as a business risk in the past, but that has all changed. Customers also have evolved quite a lot, there is a wider range of people who come in to order a bespoke suit.” She finds that modern customers tend to do their research before they arrive for the first time, but they still need advice on their choices. “It’s important to find out where they live, what sort of lifestyle they have and advise on the sort of fabric suitable for where they’re going. There is much more interest from the Far East and China, Korea and Japan as well as the Middle East.” “One big change is that fabrics have become much lighter weight as requirements have changed. 250 g cloths are now favoured, which would have been judged exceptionally light even recently. Some customers from overseas choose specifically luxurious clothes, such as Scabal’s Diamond Chip, Gold Treasure and Summit. I have made two or three of these for clients who are looking for luxury and image.”
Training at Gieves & Hawkes, for which she has a great affection, Kathryn Sargent went from the trimming room to the shop floor, and then became an apprentice cutter. “The first garment I cut out for a customer, I was a nervous wreck.” She realised early on that much of the job is down to communication : “I observed fittings and saw how the staff managed the clients, asking the right questions.” She understands fabrics intimately, and has a personal preference for colours and textures with a lot of depth rather than a flat look, admiring cashmeres for softness. She picks out Scabal’s Cool Wools as being very good new qualities. Kathryn finds that being a unique female tailor has a certain appeal, but she is cautious : “People come and find me as there is a particular skill-set they want. I think business people are less hung up gender-wise, the cut is the main thing and I know how to design things beautifully. There is such an interest now in Savile Row, and it is one of the last genuine great trades. I just love men in suits, the tailoring and technical aspect.” This engaging young woman is not short of ambition : “I’m starting my business now, and who knows where it will take me ? I believe in bespoke principles and I want to challenge myself.”
‘Business people are less hung up gender-wise’ Kathryn Sargent
Emma Martin © Janet Prescott
‘The thing about being a tailor is that you are your own judge.’ Emma Martin
Emerging talent : Emma Martin, Apprentice of the Year
At no.10 Savile Row is Dege and Skinner, the family business that was founded in 1865. It is a byword for military and formal elegance, renowned for its royal warrants and a client list that includes crowned heads of state and leaders from all over the world. As well as immaculate suits and uniforms there are hand-cut shirts, silk ties and handkerchiefs displayed imposingly front of house, and a growing number of females in apprentice roles behind the scenes. William Skinner, fourth generation, is proud of this, running a business that is poised between tradition and modernity. William Skinner describes the modern-day fabric selection of designs and colours on offer : “Scabal’s collection, for instance is hugely extensive. If you can’t find anything you’re looking for at Scabal, well…” Exceptionally fine and expensive fabrics are sought out by some customers, including Scabal’s luxury of luxury – 100 per cent vicuña – “which holds up very well,” he adds.
Skinner’s shop in Savile Row © Janet Prescott
Into this venerable establishment has come Emma Martin, voted Apprentice of the Year in 2012, with bright tulip coloured hair and a beautifully made green dress, sitting on a stool busily sewing throughout our meeting. Emma started out studying fashion, but was quickly seduced by the high standards she encountered in Savile Row on a placement, which decided the direction of her career. Savile Row tailoring fits in with the fact that she has always loved old films, and the attention to fit and fabric in the costumes. She is currently making coats as part of her apprenticeship, hand stitching every feature, shortening sleeves, setting collars. Seeing a photograph of the client she finds very useful. “It’s good to see the shape of the person,” Emma explains, “collars are so difficult to get to sit right.” Emma has a very strong idea of what she wants to do, having made clothes for people since she was a child. She welcomes the slow process of learning difficult skills, acknowledging it takes two to six years to become a coat-maker. She believes women have a particular aptitude for patient but creative work. She is moving on from
single-breasted to sewing double-breasted coats shortly. As for fabrics, she judges them by their degree of difficulty to work with : “Flannel is lovely, amazing, mohair is difficult and everyone says gabardine is awful. Anything that doesn’t shrink away or isn’t thin is good,” she laughs. “The thing about being a tailor is that you are your own judge. I always want it to be better. I kind of set goals for myself so that I can see how good I’m getting. Tailoring is so precise, you know exactly which stitch to use, how much it is going to shrink. It’s all about the proper way to do something, If it’s ‘clean’, that’s good. Cutting a pattern is just maths, anybody can do it, but the fitting is the thing, striking out, managing checks etc. There is real mystique but fitting is the key and you learn your own style along the way. I love it.”
Dege and Skinner 10 Savile Row - London W1S 3PF United Kingdom T. +44(0) 20 7287 2941 www.dege-skinner.co.uk
59
SPECI AL FEATUR E : O N E F O R T H E L A DIE S
CELEBRATING 40 ANNIVERSARY OF THE CAL™ th
Woman and cars have become a classic combination. Promoting cars or car parts is one thing, adding the allure of a woman increases attention … and sales. ‘The Cal’ has become an official trademark, as The Pirelli Calendar has celebrated the most beautiful women in the world seen the best photographers. The 40th edition of The Cal will be launched in december. By Maurits Brands “The Pirelli calendar is in line with our group’s industrial tradition of being able to anticipate the times through innovation : that is why Pirelli, long ago, earned their place among the world’s leading manufacturers.” Chairman Marco Tronchetti Provera is convinced about the companies future ambitions : “We want to become world leader in the premium segment. Our 40 years’ experience in high range products, and the acceleration we set in motion in that area last year, enable us now to already hold a position of absolute excellence. As a result of our technology, ability to innovate and our determination, between now and 2015 we will make Pirelli the global premium leader.” Aiming for the best and aiming to be the best, Pirelli supplies tyres to the Formula One World Championship. This global tyre company has played a leading role in spreading sports culture since 1907, and holds a strong cultural commitment. Since it was founded in 1872, Pirelli has been aware that it plays an important role promoting entrepreneurial culture and civil progress in all the communities it works in. In 1963, they created a calendar featuring pin-up models as a promotional piece. Each year the company has called upon ‘the photographer of the moment’ to portray ‘the beauty of the world’ through images. During almost fifty years, the calendar has been exclusive and quite exclusive, only being available to a privileged list of corporate customers and VIP’s. This exclusivity has been contributing to its success. The quality and subtle eroticism of the images have established the calendar as 60
Sophia Loren, 2007 © Pirelli
a paradigm of its genre and a coveted collector’s item. The annual selection of the models, the craft and creativity of its photographers, combined with the excellent printing, positioned the Pirelli Calendar on a distinct artistic level. The appreciation for (artistic) photography has grown considerably since the beginning of the 1970’s, adding allure to the entire venture. From the very first edition, Pirelli has been working with the very best established photographers in fashion and lifestyle. Being asked to photograph for Pirelli is a great honour, and models being asked to feature in The Cal see their fame rise to even bigger heights. Pirelli keeps the highest secrecy upon preparing the next edition. To ask who will photograph or will be featured in the 2013 Pirelli Calendar is a big no-no. As the images are being produced on location during the summer, everyone will have to wait until the beginning of December to find out who, what and where. This is precisely what intrigues. A form of anticipation and playful seduction that most of us never get tired of. Or should we say : never get ‘tyre-d’ of ?
Being asked to photograph for Pirelli is a great honour, and models being asked to feature in The Cal see their fame rise to even bigger heights
61
The Pirelli Calendar Fact sheet : THE PHOTOGRAPHERS
1964 Robert Freeman 1965 Brian Duffy 1966 Peter Knapp 1967 no calendar 1968 Harry Peccinotti 1969 Harry Peccinotti 1970 Francis Giacobetti 1971 Francis Giacobetti 1972 Sarah Moon 1973 Brian Duffy 1974 Hans Feurer 1975–1983 no calendars 1984 Uwe Ommer 1985 Norman Parkinson 1986 Bert Stern 1987 Terence Donovan 1988 Barry Lategan 1989 Joyce Tennyson 1990 Arthur Elgort Seville 1991 Clive Arrowsmith 1992 Clive Arrowsmith 1993 John Claridge 1994 Herb Ritts 1995 Richard Avedon 1996 Peter Lindbergh 1997 Richard Avedon 1998 Bruce Weber 1999 Herb Ritts 2000 Annie Leibovitz 2001 Mario Testino 2002 Peter Lindbergh 2003 Bruce Weber 2004 Nick Knight 2005 Patrick Demarchelier 2006 Mert Alas & Marcus Piggot 2007 Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin 2008 Patrick Demarchelier 2009 Peter Beard 2010 Terry Richardson 2011 Karl Lagerfeld 2012 Mario Sorrenti 2013 to be confirmed
Jennifer Lopez, 2006 © Pirelli
The Pirelli Calendar Fact sheet : THE MODELS
Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova, Monica Bellucci, Milla Jovovich, Carla Bruni, Eva Herzigova, Patricia Arquette, Laetitia Casta, Gisele Bündchen, Erika Christensen, Selma Blair, Lauren Bush, Sienna Miller, Heidi Klum, Filippa Hamilton, Natalia Vodianova, Karolina Kurkova, Jennifer Lopez, Kate Moss, Penélope Cruz, Sophia Loren, Lou Doillon, Hilary Swank, Naomi Watts, Julianne Moore… Naomi Campbell, 2005 © Pirelli
62
PAST–PRESENT– FUTURE
Sir Elton The John chooses Oldenburg ‘New Deluxe’ Tweed Run
In his five decades in the music business, Sir Elton John has scored major successes with his albums, stage and film soundtracks, film roles and live performances. For his latest suits, Scabal is honoured by his choice of seven fabrics from the ‘New Deluxe’ range. The handle of the light prunelle quality gives the cloth comfortable wearing properties, easy care and a convincing elegant appearance. With its great versatility, it’s the ideal choice for the most diverse suitings, blazers and trouserings. www.eltonjohn.com
First steps in China
Tweet tweet !
The Tweed Run is a bicycle race originally held in London and now hosted by other cities such as Tokyo and New York. For one day, ladies and gentlemen wear traditional British tweed outfits and ride together. At the end of the day, they share a diner and honour the three most original outfits. Scabal’s valued retailer Die Form, represented In recent years, Scabal has invested greatly in by M. Oliver Sklorz took part in the 2012 edition social media to become a fully ‘social brand’, organized in Oldenburg, Germany. An elegant efforts that reflect Scabal’s perennial aim to and amusing way to celebrate British culture. always be closer to its clients. Thanks to new www.tweedrun.de technologies, aficionados can now not only follow Scabal’s activities but also ask questions and interact directly with the brand. A full report on Scabal’s latest communication tools will be published in an upcoming edition of Bespoken. Scabal can now be found on the following social platforms: Facebook : www.facebook.com/scabal Twitter : www.twitter.com/scabal LinkedIn : www.linkedin.com/company/scabal YouTube : www.youtube.com/scabalfashion
Investing in luxury
Recently, Scabal took part in the first edition of the Suzhou International Culture & Design Fair. Suzhou is a major city of 10 million inhabitants, located 100 kilometres from Shanghai. More than one million visitors have attended the fair, which is held over three days. Scabal was invited to be part of the European hall, along with renowned brands such as BMW, Cartier and Flos. A timeline exhibition showed the key dates of the Scabal’s history from 1938 to the present. This was a good introduction to this growing market for Scabal, We live during an era when most people no longer which plans to open 12 new shops in the next want to spend their money on frivolous items, so three years in China. what better way to invest than in safe securities, in goods that resist time and societal trends. It www.scabal.com was in this vein that Scabal held a cocktail evening entitled ‘Investment in Luxury’ in Antwerp. Experts in the luxury field, such as Geretti (Antwerp Jewellery Manufacturer), Beerens Classics Divisions (Oldtimers), Deutsche Bank (Private Banking) and Albert (seller of fabrics and made-to-measure Scabal suits), were present. The keynote speech explained why it is useful to invest in luxury and in which products/services in particular. www.beerens.be/classic-exclusive-cars
Scabal for Ambiorix
Scabal is proud to have provided suits for renowned Belgian film director Erik Van Looy for the advertising campaign produced by luxury-shoes brand Ambiorix, established in Belgium since 1895. The Vavedin family group took over in January 2007 and is now in command of the brand. Their way of working, their choice for comfortable, well-designed shoes is giving Ambiorix renewed drive. In the past, Scabal has already provided suits for Erik Van Looy and his actors, for great movies such as Loft and De Zaak Alzheimer. www.ambiorix.be Jérôme Stéfanski & Wilfried Redant 63
SCABAL WORLDWIDE COMPANY-OWNED STORES
AGENTS AND DISTRIBUTORS
LONDON (flagship store)
EUROPE SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com
12, Savile Row, W153PQ London + 44–20–77 34 89 63 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com
AUSTRIA +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at
PARIS
Le Printemps de l’Homme, 4th floor 61, rue Caumartin, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 82 40 32 scabal.printemps@scabal.com Savile House by Scabal , 2 5, Square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 66 93 59 guillaume.brazo@scabal.com www.savilehouse.fr nd floor
FRANKFURT Savile House by Scabal 56, Hochstrasse, 60313 Frankfurt + 49–69–91 39 51 26 holger-gustav.meyer@scabal.com www.savilehouse.de
BERLIN
Kadewe, 1st floor 21-24, Tauentzienstrasse, 10789 Berlin + 49–30–219 18 530 andreas.oltmanns@scabal.de
BRUSSELS
(Opening end of September 2012) 32, Boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels + 32–2–512 42 03 info@scabal.com
BEIJING (opening soon)
bulgaria +359-2-936 03 70 bvangelov@votan.eu CYPRUS +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com CZECH REPUBLIC +420 724 342 111 rtoumi@gentryrow.cz FRANCE +33-1-42 33 08 93 scfr@scabal.com GERMANY +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de GREAT BRITAIN +44-207-734 1867 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com
GREECE +30-210-67 27 431 dcon@otenet.gr
ITALY +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com
RUSSIA +7-495-660-7163 ag@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2010 sol@solstudio.ru SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com +34-93 726 00 99 unikman@unikman.es
SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com
TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr AMERICAs
ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar
BRAZIL +55-11-3115 41 22 atendimento@erlu.com.br
CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com
CHILe +56-27 17 39 22 contact@holmes.cl
COLOMBIA +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@etb.net.co
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do
POLAND +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl
PORTUGAL +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt
ROMANIA +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro
CLOTH
MEXICO +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx
U.S.A. +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com
VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com
GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES
REST OF THE WORLD AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS– MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-6336 0070 heefabricagencies@hee.sg HONG KONG +852-23-762 535 fbfhk@fieldingbrownfinch.com.hk INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net IRAN +98 55611469-55614137 tehranivahid@hotmail.com JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-140-375 27 16 faris@fmmercie.com south korea +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com SYRIA +963 - 11 2233986 +963 - 11 2222784 akkad-sons@gmail.com
N E XT ISSUE : J AN UAR Y 20 1 3
In the next edition of Bespoken, you will discover the new Scabal Spring-Summer 2013 collection with its full range of new accessories, such as leather luggage and fine shoes. Reserve your copy, which will be delivered to your home, at www.bespoken.com or read the magazine on your iPad at www.bespoken.com/ipad. Scabal’s flagship store in Savile Row, London
64
Maison fondĂŠe en 1785 Taste our know-how wisely
www.cartier.com
New Collection TANK ANGLAISE