BESPOKEN 3 by Scabal

be spo ken Autumn – Winter 2008–2009

AUTUMN-WINTER 2008-2009 Trends

Personal choice the bespoke coach

Have suit, will travel Unique like you

Made-to-measure shirt interviews

Michael Owen Miguel Câncio Martins Gunhyo Kim Scott Schuman

A SCABAL initiative to promote A taIlor-made lifestyle Bespoken

Editorial comment We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62

Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. BESPOKEN is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages.BESPOKEN cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor : Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher : Gregor Thissen Project Manager : Kristel Geets Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design : baseDesign Writers: Luciano Barbera Nigel Bishop James Drew Federico Grandesso Alan Cannon Jones Josephine Overeem Stephen Papandropoulos Bernhard Roetzel Jérôme Stéfanski Stéphane Yanef

A high–class expression of your own personality ‘L’habit ne fait pas le moine’ – ‘Don’t judge a book by its cover’. A wise maxim that exists in many languages and cultures. However, it’s becoming more and more recognised that, in fact, the way you dress is the ultimate expression of your own personality - the way you feel on a particular day or at a particular moment. Taking a superficial look at today’s dress sense, you’d be forgiven for thinking that traditional gentlemen’s clothing was out of fashion, and that jeans and T-shirts ruled. While there may be some truth in that, it’s is definitely not the whole picture. Consider: Young people are once again paying much more attention to their attire. They may not wear suits, dress shirts or jackets in the same way their parents once did, but they are still sporting classical traditional wardrobe elements to assert social status, capture the mood of the moment, or just to dress up for a special occasion. A recent study has shown that the notion of ‘The Gentleman’ is still very much alive, both in terms of clothing and inherent ethical values; it’s still a leitmotif for many, and not just the older generation. In fact, it’s taking on a modern and urban twist.

Proofreading : Cillian Donnelly James Drew

As introduced on page 12, a product’s origins have become a highly contentious issue of late. The major relocation of production to eastern Europe and the Far East has brought consumer confusion over brands’ credibility. Against the odds (and the dominant industry trends) Scabal has kept its historical production sites in England and Germany, and it’s a strategy that we certainly do not plan to change. Quality, prompt delivery and service are elements on which we simply refuse to compromise. Incidentally, this seems to have proven to be the correct choice, as many of our competitors are increasingly returning their facilities closer to home. Once again, for our third edition, Bespoken wishes you happy reading! J.P. & G. Thissen

J.P. Thissen, Chairman & his son Gregor, CEO Scabal Group

Photographers: Stephen Papandropoulos by2 photographers Frank Uyttenhove www.scabal.com www.bespoken.com SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 2

Bespoken

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

BB es ep sp oo ke kn en 03

Editorial comment We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62

Proofreading : Cillian Donnelly James Drew

J.P. Thissen, Chairman & his son Gregor, CEO Scabal Group

Photographers: Stephen Papandropoulos by2 photographers Frank Uyttenhove www.scabal.com www.bespoken.com SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 2

Bespoken

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

BB es ep sp oo ke kn en 03

10 12 14 16 22 25 28 30 46 52 56 58 60 66 68 70 74

edItorIal comment

me, myself and i

03 06 08

temptatIons

the art of receiving the pleasure of giving It makes the dIfference

bespoke presentation: the final touch confessIon

time to get real on labelling haIr style

Give your own look to your locks bespoke coach

have suit, will travel taIlor’s dIctIonary

–From d to F–

from sheep to shop

something in the hair unIque lIke you

a shirt for you autumn-WInter 2008-2009 trends

personal choice scabal Group

made in scabal taIlor-man

miguel câncio martins: charm professional

aGenda

measured moments someWhere In asIa

Ginza: where elegance comes naturally terra IncoGnIta

incredible mozambique scabal across the World

the Ø gene is key portraIt

michael owen: the training game thIs Is scabal

merino wool: a renaissance fibre desIGner In VoGue

Gunhyo kim: a homage to tailors

sprInG - summer 2008/2009

dreamweaver

80 scott schuman: fashIon onlIne

the sartorialist

scabal worldwide bespoken

10 12 14 16 22 25 28 30 46 52 56 58 60 66 68 70 74

edItorIal comment

me, myself and i

03 06 08

temptatIons

the art of receiving the pleasure of giving It makes the dIfference

bespoke presentation: the final touch confessIon

time to get real on labelling haIr style

Give your own look to your locks bespoke coach

have suit, will travel taIlor’s dIctIonary

–From d to F–

from sheep to shop

something in the hair unIque lIke you

a shirt for you autumn-WInter 2008-2009 trends

personal choice scabal Group

made in scabal taIlor-man

miguel câncio martins: charm professional

aGenda

measured moments someWhere In asIa

Ginza: where elegance comes naturally terra IncoGnIta

incredible mozambique scabal across the World

the Ø gene is key portraIt

michael owen: the training game thIs Is scabal

merino wool: a renaissance fibre desIGner In VoGue

Gunhyo kim: a homage to tailors

sprInG - summer 2008/2009

dreamweaver

80 scott schuman: fashIon onlIne

the sartorialist

scabal worldwide bespoken

BETWEEN TRAdITION ANd MOdERNITy

photographer: Antoine Fontaine

styling: Geoffrey Mazure

me, myselF & i

2 5

6 tradition

modernity

Floris london eau de toilette Classic Tuberose 100ml, 59€E www.florislondon.co.uk kiehl’s energizing moisture treatment Facial Fuel 75ml, 29€E www.kiehls.com

les parFUms de rosine Rose d’Homme soap on a rope 200gr, 28€E www.les-parfums-de-rosine.com

bespoken

Jean-paUl GaUltier Monsieur, Shine Stopper gel, 15ml, 20€E

Jean-paUl GaUltier Monsieur, Eau du Matin 100ml, 45€E www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/monsieur

GiorGio armani Skin Minerals shaving cream 150ml, 25€E

GiorGio armani Skin Minerals regenerating cream 50ml, 73 E www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com

3 8

narciso rodriGUez For Him deodorant stick 75gr, 20€E www.narcisorodriguez.com

aqUamass Green Tea spa & bath care 200ml, 29€E www.aquamass.com

Fendi Model FS474M sunglasses

195€E www.fendi.com

bespoken

BETWEEN TRAdITION ANd MOdERNITy

photographer: Antoine Fontaine

styling: Geoffrey Mazure

me, myselF & i

2 5

6 tradition

modernity

Floris london eau de toilette Classic Tuberose 100ml, 59€E www.florislondon.co.uk kiehl’s energizing moisture treatment Facial Fuel 75ml, 29€E www.kiehls.com

les parFUms de rosine Rose d’Homme soap on a rope 200gr, 28€E www.les-parfums-de-rosine.com

bespoken

Jean-paUl GaUltier Monsieur, Shine Stopper gel, 15ml, 20€E

Jean-paUl GaUltier Monsieur, Eau du Matin 100ml, 45€E www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/monsieur

GiorGio armani Skin Minerals shaving cream 150ml, 25€E

GiorGio armani Skin Minerals regenerating cream 50ml, 73 E www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com

3 8

narciso rodriGUez For Him deodorant stick 75gr, 20€E www.narcisorodriguez.com

aqUamass Green Tea spa & bath care 200ml, 29€E www.aquamass.com

Fendi Model FS474M sunglasses

195€E www.fendi.com

bespoken

temptations

THE ART Of RECEIvING

dUret

the story begins in paris, 1988, in rue duret, where mickaël benarroch first opened a small shoe emporium, which he quickly transformed into a made-to-measure luxury leather-belt boutique. today, duret allows you to design your own bespoke belt online – personalize your buckle with noble adornments such as palladium or pink gold, colourco-ordinate your choice of leather, and the belt is measured precisely to your waist size! once you’ve ordered, putting on weight is out of the question… From 350 E www.duret-paris.com

temptations

edward Green

what could be more refined or comfortable than ‘made-to-measure’ shoes from world-renowned brand edward Green? esteemed since 1890 as ‘the finest shoes for the discerning few’ their customized leather lines are classic, rather than merely fashionable. the height of refinement is ‘edinburgh eve’ – the perfect complement to your made-to-measure dinner jacket, with the shoes’ length and width cut according to the shape of your feet. Undoubtedly, your best foot forward. Prices on request. www.edwardgreen.com

buben & zorweg offer luxurious jewellery boxes, humidors and ‘watch winders’ that allow you to keep your time-piece in tip-top condition, with automatic movement assured, as is total personalisation, in the finest materials available. ‘vantage’ is a handcrafted exclusive case with walnut burl wood inlays, high-gloss lacquered finish, glass window and velour black interior. net adaptor included. Prices on request. www.buben-zorweg.com

tonia welter

cufflinks are key to the Usb collection from designers tonia welter and Julia reymann. all hand-made in berlin, personalised bracelets and necklaces are also available. we suggest the prestigious limited edition ‘berlin’ cufflinks, made from sterling silver, with black zirconia and matt finish. beautiful, practical connectors for your cuffs. 240 E www.toniawelter.de

bUben & zorweG

THE PlEAsURE Of GIvING

bUG labs

ok, your beautiful iphone seems to want for nothing… but only for the moment! because technology moves at such speed, Us bug labs have created the first truly flexible portable phone. thanks to the linux operating system, your Gsm goes made-to-measure and evolves according to your needs, with Gps system, touch-screen control, camera, video, cardio monitor, and much more beside. Bug Base: 195 E Bug View (Touch Screen): 65E Bug Motion (Cardio Monitor): 35E Bug Locate (GPS): 55E Bug cam2MP (Camera and Video): 45E www.buglabs.net J.S

bespoken

candles UniqUe

Fan the flames of passion by offering your heart’s desire a personalized candle. a specialist in bespoke bougies, english firm candles Unique can provide made-to-measure illumination for every occasion. the online catalogue lets you not only choose the size and colour of your candle, but also to add finishing touches such as artificial roses and engraving a text of your choice. www.candles-unique.co.uk

riGby & peller

the celebrated lingerie chain offers exclusive undergarments, made according to your personal tastes. the highly skilled team of fitters and seamstresses work together to provide hand-made garments in luxurious materials, made entirely to individual requirements. after measuring up, six to eight weeks are needed to create the garment of her dreams… and yours! Bespoke corserie from 1,000 E

by terry

when he first created his make-up in 1998, terry de Gunzburg had a singular vision, namely to transpose hautecouture values to the world of cosmetics. excellence, creativity and personalisation have been part of the programme from the very start, in three ranges – ‘haute couleur’ (made-to-measure make-up), ‘couture’ (limited-edition, innovative hand-made) and ‘prêt-a-porter light’ (at a bargain price). ‘the starlight box’ is our choice… 150 E www.byterry.com

loUis mariette

louis mariette is the bespoke hat specialist. internationally recognized, he preaches individuality – for every event, there’s a hat to match. From dubai to monaco, paris to london, your partner’s beauty will be crowned, thanks to mariette’s audacious, inventive creations. as a starting point, the designer uses a wide range of materials at his disposal such as hand-embroidered fabrics, porcupine quills, feathers and semi-precious stones. one of his most spectacular creations is the chapeau d’amour, a £1.5 million miracle made with an ultra-rare weave of platinum fabric, studded with diamonds. Prices on request. www.louismariette.co.uk

bodymetrics

seven, diesel, dior and so on. the traditional jean brands, filling her wardrobe. but what she really wants is a perfect cut that's fully adjusted to her sensual curves. and she can have her heart’s desire, thanks to bodymetrics’ revolutionary technology that makes it possible with revolutionary light-scanning technology. once a virtual model has been created, your lady will have a personal design consultation where she can specify her jeans’ characteristics from a to z under the watchful eye of a professional designer – the choice of colours, materials, seams, buttons and engraved are all hers, and her chic, hand tailored jeans will arrive, beautifully packaged, three weeks later. a unique experience! Prices on request. www.bodymetrics.com

www.rigbyandpeller.com

J.S bespoken

temptations

THE ART Of RECEIvING

dUret

temptations

edward Green

tonia welter

bUben & zorweG

THE PlEAsURE Of GIvING

bUG labs

bespoken

candles UniqUe

riGby & peller

by terry

loUis mariette

bodymetrics

www.rigbyandpeller.com

J.S bespoken

It Makes the Difference

BESPOKE PRESENTATION: the fINAL touch

From its beginnings, Scabal has always prided itself on designing and manufacturing its own renowned and refined cloth packaging and ‘bunches’. Here, we learn more about the art from a craftsman who pledges both quality and authenticity.

The origins of the ‘Bunch’

Over the years, specialized machines were introduced, and proved to be a boon: “I bought my first machine twenty-five years ago for two-and-a half million old francs – that’s equivalent to around 65,000 E”, says Bertrand De Baere, Production Manager. He adds: “At that time, Mr Hertz really had a great interest in the machines! Since 1991, we have worked in close cooperation with J.P. Thissen, who is very creative. His son Gregor, Scabal’s CEO, is very attentive to quality and performance and

Bespoken

Let us take, as an example, the manufacturing of fabric boxes, which are used for the presentation of cut lengths of our fabrics. Before production, there is the design phase. In 90 percent of cases, the ideas come from J.P. Thissen, assisted by Michael Day, Director of Scabal Fabrics Division and the Sales & Marketing department. We thus receive a precise briefing, which we work on together, before constructing a prototype on the basis of dimensions and the materials to be used — be it leather, velvet, or Pellaq, which is a 100 percent recyclable material from New York that provides a very luxurious look and feel. To produce the prototype, we do a lot of Internet research and consult our files to obtain the perfect combination. We take photographs where necessary, which we place inside the boxes for exceptional fabrics such as ‘Diamond Chip’ and ‘Vicuña’. We then produce the first trial in the workshop. Once the prototype has been approved, the production phase can begin…

How do you define your profession?

Despite his 25 years of service, Bertrand is still far from being the oldest Scabal employee. De Baere invited Bespoken into his 2,000m 2 workshop and stockroom, to be found but a few metres away from Scabal’s headquarters, for a chat.

Bertrand De Baere: It is mainly a question of offering our customers packaging and bunches that reflect our products’ core values: personalization, quality and artisan expertise. It is a question of guaranteeing a service in which tradition and modernity mix, where techniques and skill are at the heart of the process.

And, since this system’s introduction, Scabal has had its own in-house department to produce its ‘bunches’. By investing in people and technology, Scabal has been able to continually increase the process’s sophistication and is justifiably proud of its unique workshop facilities.

How does your production cycle proceed?

Bespoken: Which clients’ needs are served by your work at Scabal?

The tailor would drape the fabric over his prospective client's shoulders to help him make his choice. ‘Cumbersome and expensive’ concluded Otto Hertz, Scabal founder and then-Chairman. His solution was the ‘bunch’. By compiling a large selection of different cloths into sample books, Scabal was able to provide a much larger choice of different designs and qualities than previously.

Gregor Thissen

we often discuss future plans for improving the equipment.”

Craftswomen at work

My work is based on two principles: management and research. The management of people, machines, time and quality. To research new techniques to implement management ideals and satisfy our international customers’ needs. To seek out new design concepts, but always strive for quality.

J.S.

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

In Scabal’s early days (before the advent of ready-to-wear) a gentleman invariably turned to his tailor for his clothing. Such craftsmen needed a large variety of cloth to display to their customers, and usually stocked many pre-cut lengths in their showrooms.

uaranteed quality. Modern techniques. A love of work well done. A perfect summary for a profession that has been refined by its artisans for almost a century. In the workshops, they cut, glue, package, print and much more. Special gift boxes, to display and package individual cut lengths from Scabal's premium fabric collections, are also designed and produced in house.

Facts & Figures Average daily production of 250 ‘bunches’ Several thousand fabric boxes are produced every year 13 people are employed full-time in the production workshop 4-5 seasonal workers supplement the team in Summer 1 carpenter is employed to deal with the wood cuttings that are used to bind the fabric sample ‘bunches’ The workshop covers 1,000m 2 Stock also takes up 1,000m 2 of space Per day, 7,000 labels are attached manually to the fabric samples A ‘bunch’ is composed of around 30-40 fabric samples 5-10 days are normally required to produce a special presentation box No less than 15 production stages are required to produce a single ‘bunch’ Twice a year, the bunches are distributed worldwide Bespoken

It Makes the Difference

BESPOKE PRESENTATION: the fINAL touch

The origins of the ‘Bunch’

Bespoken

How do you define your profession?

How does your production cycle proceed?

Bespoken: Which clients’ needs are served by your work at Scabal?

Gregor Thissen

we often discuss future plans for improving the equipment.”

Craftswomen at work

J.S.

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

conFession

TIME TO GET REAl ON lABEllING consumers worldwide should enjoy the same rights as american citizens have since 1930, and the Japanese since 1970, to know where and how all so-called european products are made.

e have demanded, for many years, a precise law dictating that products coming from outside of europe can only be sold in the european market if they have a compulsory ‘made in’ label showing the country of origin, complete with production history.

lackinG transparency

but this is still not enough. it is not transparent towards the final consumer because, as often happens, many companies’ goods, in whole or in part, are produced both in and outside europe, and are then circulated under the distributing company’s label, without precise information concerning

where and how the goods were actually manufactured. the european citizen must be able to choose. only correct information, guaranteeing the authenticity of the ‘made in’ label, can reassure the consumer that he or she is purchasing quality products at a fair price. the future of the european economy is at stake – the europiean Union must take responsibility. should rampant commercialisation be allowed to completely destroy the manufacturing system that at present allows small- and medium-sized companies to produce high-quality items, the tradition of english, French and italian creativity and craftwork will simply disappear. Under present european laws, ‘made in italy’ and ‘made in

england’ will be an increasingly empty statement and will have less and less value in the international marketplace. it would be far better for each production sector to be constrained by the fact that, for example, italy can only export products that are certified by law, instead of selling huge quantities of falsely labelled goods. as individuals, we must hold a passport or identity card guaranteed by its country of origin to travel – why should this principle not also apply to the goods produced by individual countries? otherwise, what guarantees can we offer to the world concerning the consistency and quality of our products? Luciano Barbera

the writer

luciano barbera was born in biella, italy, in 1938 and began his education in textile arts before completing his studies in england. returning to italy near the end of the 1950s, he began his career as a textile designer and then as a clothing-line stylist. he is now ceo of the barbera Group, including the carlo barbera & c. s.p.a. mill. also chairman and ceo of Grilux s.p.a., which produces and distributes the luciano barbera clothing lines, barbera was the innovator of the biella master in noble Fibres – aziende come botteghe d’arte – thus continuing the heritage of tradition and knowledge from generation to generation. www.lucianobarbera.it Luciano Barbera

bespoken

conFession

lackinG transparency

the writer

bespoken

Hair Style

Give your own look to your locks

It’s always a question of finding the right compromise between classic and modern

Too often neglected, the hair-cut is nevertheless an essential element of the gentleman’s ‘look’, enhancing a man's unique character. Your hair can also be personalized to suit the setting, as we explain…

Suit & waistcoat, ‘Loch Fyne Donegal’ 100% Pure Cashmere article 851594 All Accessories By Scabal

At work...

Formal Wear Special Selection Velvet article 800641 All Accessories By Scabal

It’s always a question of finding the right compromise between classic and modern, to look chic but still be respected by colleagues and clients. Serious, then, is the way to go – a traditional smooth look is obtained in three simple, quick steps. First of all, apply ‘Tigi S-Factor Seriously Straight’ then use your hairdryer and hands to achieve your style. Then, to hold the look, apply a little ‘Tigi Manipulator’ to keep it in place and, finally, for healthy shine, finish with a quick psscch! of ‘Tigi Headrush Shine Spray’.

Stéphane Yanef

About the writer

Belgian resident Stéphane Yanef, 33, born in Bulgaria, has worked 17 years as a hairdresser. After finishing his training, he worked in London and New York, discovering new trends. In 2005, he opened Kings&Queens, a hairdressing salon in Brussels’ European quarter, serving a clientele composed of diplomats, European civil servants and other international gentlemen. From September 2009, a Kings&Queens salon will also open in New York.

On the town...

S. Y.

Bespoken

Once the evening arrives, another dual-look is essential: how to achieve elegant but relaxed? The key is light, discrete curls, which give the impression of décoiffé structuré. The effect is obtained with ‘Tigi Catwalk Curls Rock Curl Amplifier’, applied to wet hair – the product makes good hair structure easy to obtain. Then, a woosh of ‘Tigi Catwalk Curls Rock ‘n’ Roll Curl Booster’, unbeatable for holding the hairstyle in place. Once that's done, all that remains is to allow your locks to air dry, with ‘Tigi Catwalk Curls Hairspray Rock ‘n’ Roll’ for softness and shine.

www.kingsandqueenshairdresser.com

For more information about Tigi products, go to www.tigihaircare.us Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Bespoken

Hair Style

Give your own look to your locks

It’s always a question of finding the right compromise between classic and modern

Suit & waistcoat, ‘Loch Fyne Donegal’ 100% Pure Cashmere article 851594 All Accessories By Scabal

At work...

Formal Wear Special Selection Velvet article 800641 All Accessories By Scabal

Stéphane Yanef

About the writer

On the town...

S. Y.

Bespoken

www.kingsandqueenshairdresser.com

For more information about Tigi products, go to www.tigihaircare.us Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Bespoken

the bespoke coach

Have suit, will travel

Airport lounge: The spacious reception hall divides the open lounge into two sections: one area for First Class, the other for Première passengers — Total comfort, luxury and design. Before their flight, passengers can relax in a peaceful environment while waiting for their connection. The lounge covers an area of 522m²: 151m² for First Class, 334m² for Première and 37m² for shared areas.

Our couture coach reveals the step-by-step art of travelling with suits in tow without creasing them beyond recognition by the time you arrive at your destination. Good advice to heed before boarding your next flight…

inding the right clothes for travel is an easy task for the average holidaymaker, but the bespoke addict faces many difficult choices when preparing for a journey. Will my suit wrinkle if I wear it all day? Can I change before the meeting? Should I travel light and only a minimal set of clothes, or should I rather carry a suitcase containing two suits? How much chance is there of my treasured bespoke suits getting lost between Europe and Asia? Will the weight of the fabric be right for climate? What will my freshly pressed suit look like when I take it out of the suitcase? To help remedy such quandqries, frequent-flyer businessmen should take great care to find the right styles and cloths for their travel wardrobe. First step: Choice of the fabric When travelling to short-haul destinations in Europe, needing only brief periods of being seated in a plane, any midweight quality fabric will do. Nevertheless, one should not choose

Hotel lift: The Conrad International Brussels, a five-star palace, is located on the prestigious Avenue Louise, with the main tourist attractions, the airport, the station and the most elegant shops in the city all easily accessible. The grand style of the Conrad Brussels ballroom makes it an excellent venue for conferences and banquets, while each of the 15 elegant meeting rooms offers the perfect focus for smaller events… Luggage: Bayamo, Laptop Attaché & Garment Bag, Samsonite Black Label. Manufactured in Europe, using high-end leather and featuring saddle stitching, each Bayamo product has been crafted to exude an edge of softness and purity. The elegant Laptop Attaché is designed to hold your business gear, with space for 16" laptops. Watch: Opera Meccana, mod. 2009 by Anonimo, Firenze. Dual self-winding movement, 50 jewels, adjusted four positions. Suit: Scabal Made-to-Measure, Lifestyle, ref. 702 112 Shirt and accessories: Scabal 16

Bespoken

Luggage: X’Lite gold, 55cm upright, Samsonite Black Label Aerodynamic and sleek, X’Lite is inspired by the high-octane world of power-boating, delivering high-impact strength, performance and abrasion resistance. Attention to detail is clear, from the luxurious interiors to each item's unique serial ID. Suit: Scabal Made-to-Measure, Lifestyle, ref. 702 112 Shirt and accessories: Scabal

Bespoken

the bespoke coach

Have suit, will travel

Bespoken

No matter how you choose to fold the suit, please remember never to pack too many garments

cloths of fibres that are finer than Super 120’s or Super 130’s without due regard to the actual weight of the cloth. The finer the fibre that the yarn is made from, the more sensitive it is to rough handling. Thus, a Super 120’s worsted with a weight of 280 grammes would be just right. This might sound fairly heavy by many people’s standards, but a journey is not the same as a day in the office. So, if you are heading for hot countries, leave the summer suits in your suitcase and travel in a midweight cloth because lightweights are often prone to wrinkling. Cloths made from highly twisted yarns are generally better suited for travel because of the particular structure - during colder seasons, slightly heavier suitings are highly recommended, because they keep you warm and crease less. The fibre type is also an important aspect. Linen, followed by cotton, is pehaps not the most suitable for travel - both fibres make great fabrics for warm days, but unfortunately suits tailored from them can perhaps lose their shape when worn on long flights. The fibre best suited to the rigours of travel is Mohair - by nature, it is very elastic and it will crease less than wool or cashmere. Purists reject the notion of synthetic fibres, but they do perform very well in blends, especially in countries with a very hot and humid climate. Second step: tailored to travel As for the choice of colour and pattern, one must differentiate between a suit that is made for the actual journey and one to be worn when you reach your destination, which will be dictated by dress-code rules and the season. In the 1920s and 1930s, a period often labelled the ‚golden age‘ of tailoring, a gentleman would invariably wear a sportsuit on a train, usually made from hard-wearing tweed or cheviot. 18

Bespoken

Glenplaid was also a classic choice. Checks were popular, because they gave the wearer a relaxed air and suited the adventurous aspects of travel. In addition, small stains that may occur during a journey do not show on a vivid check. The modern world leaves less time for changing one’s clothes and thus most businessmen will wear one suit for the whole day. It is therefore advisable to devote thought and care to the garment’s style and detailing. Inside pockets should have buttons to avoid items falling out if the jacket is folded for storage in overhead lockers. Some men even insist on zippers for their inside pockets, although for the majority, this is not a very appealing solution. The jacket‘s outside pockets should have flaps for the same reason, and a flap is also a good idea for breast pockets, because they prevent glasses or mobile phones slipping out when bending over. Of course, a handkerchief cannot unfortunately be worn with a flapped pocket... The cut and the style of the trousers may also be adapted to the special demands of the traveller. Cross pockets have the advantage that small objects such as keys, coins or mobile phones will not be lost when one sits down. It is important to remember that they can only be chosen with flat fronted trousers, so if Sir prefers pleats, he can’t have them. Cross pockets are also considered to be too sporty by some for a business suit, opting for side pockets either welted or cut into the sideseam. Bespoke tailors usually make them with a little pocket inside the lining for coins. As for the cut of the trousers, one would not recommend a drainpipe style for travelling, because trousers that are cut very close to the leg can be very uncomfortable while one is seated and

As for the cut of the trousers, one would not recommend a drainpipe style for travelling, because trousers that are cut very close to the leg can be very uncomfortable while one is seated

also tend to stick to kneelength socks at the calves - another irritation. Slightly wider legs are thus recommended. The most comfortable style for travelling are brace-top trousers, because they will stay in place at all times, which can be very important when bags must be carried in both hands. Brace-top trousers also have the advantage of being less tight at the waist, which makes them more comfortable while seated. However, despite all these advantages, most men nowadays prefer belted trousers, but they should be measured just a little bit more generously around the waist, to give the wearer the chance to loosen up the belt a little during longer journeys. Third step: packing your suit Packing a suitcase is an art that was normally left to specialists in the old days. The Duke of Windsor’s valet, for example, used to stuff paper inside suits to avoid creasing. In those days, spacious trunks were used, sometimes with the suits hanging on a rail. Many wealthy gentleman completely avoided the problem of packing suits by owning several sets of garments, stored in their various residences. This practice is still fairly common among very rich suit lovers, but for most bespoke tailors‘ patrons, it is not an option. Trunks are still the best way to store suits during a journey and for gentlemen who are lucky enough to travel first class, it is possible to use them. Most business travellers, however, will use an ordinary suitcase or suit carrier. Hard-shell suitcases are preferable because they protect suits better than any soft luggage or suit carriers. The latter are useful only when one travels in a car, because they can be hung up in the back or laid flat in the boot. During

Brussels Airport Jet Airways Lounge, First Class: Shades of grey, white, beige and oak further enhance the luxurious feeling created by the spacious design. The main area is an open space in which a relaxation and entertainment zone has been installed. Alongside the reception area is a ‘media wall’ where passengers can choose from a wide range of international newspapers and magazines. On the opposite wall, four Pioneer LCD televisions, fitted with Bose headphones and remote control allow passengers to watch TV from one of the six white-leather Cassina revolving chairs. A number of connection points have also been installed for laptops, and it is possible to surf the Internet with a wireless connection. Luggage: Sevruga, Laptop Backpack, Samsonite Black Label Sleek and bold, Sevruga takes its cue from aquatic life such as the Sevruga sturgeon, the stingray and shark. This design philosophy, called Aquadynamics, is combined with the latest innovative mechanics and high-performance materials. Watch: Opera Meccana, mod. 2026 by Anonimo, Firenze. Inox & gold, special edition 57/99 Suit: Scabal Made-to-Measure, Lifestyle, ref. 702 112 Shirt and accessories: Scabal Bespoken

No matter how you choose to fold the suit, please remember never to pack too many garments

Bespoken

As for the cut of the trousers, one would not recommend a drainpipe style for travelling, because trousers that are cut very close to the leg can be very uncomfortable while one is seated

On tarmac: Jet Airways operates new Boeing 777 planes on its Brussels to Mumbai and Newark routes and also Airbus 300 aircrafts on Delhi, Chennai (Madras), New York JFK and Toronto. The Boeing 777 aircrafts offer a three-class configuration, which comprises eight suites in First Class, 30 seats in Première and 274 seats in Economy.

Leaving the ground: In First Class, Jet Airways offers eight luxury suites, ensuring that passengers enjoy maximum comfort, luxury and privacy. Each suite has a large bed, storage space for clothes and a table at which two persons can enjoy a five-course gourmet dinner. A massage system built into the seats and in-flight entertainment, with a wide variety of film, television and music options, is also available. Luggage: Bayamo, Carry-on, Samsonite Black Label Bayamo is a timeless collection of business and weekend travel bags for connoisseurs. Watch: Opera Meccana, mod. 2009 by Anonimo, Firenze. Dual self-winding movement, 50 jewels, adjusted four positions Suit: Scabal N°12, Super 150’s fabric Shirt and accessories: Scabal

Watch: Opera Meccana, mod. 2009 by Anonimo, Firenze. Dual self-winding movement, 50 jewels, adjusted four positions. Suit: Scabal N°12, Super 150’s fabric Shirt and accessories: Scabal

air travel, suits can be crushed while carrying the suitbag through a narrow plane or storing it in overhead lockers. There are several schools of thought concerning the best way to fold suits. The most common recommendation is to lay the jacket flat in the suitcase with the sleeves spread. The trousers are then folded along the creases and placed on the chest of the jacket, with the sleeves then folded as if they were ‚embracing‘ the trousers. Another popular storage method begins with turning the jacket inside out and then tucking one half into the other half‘s sleevehead. No matter how you choose to fold the suit, please remember never to pack too many garments - the more you cram inside, the more the pressure will be on the clothes. 20

Bespoken

Always aim to preserve the jacket‘s three dimensional shape, either by filling the sleeves, chest and shoulders with paper or soft garments sugh as socks, sweaters, polo shirts or underwear. Last step: Unpacking your clothes Take the suit out of the case as soon as you arrive at your hotel and hang it up. Wrinkles that are not in-grained too deeply will disappear thanks to gravity, but give the process some time. The better quality the cloth, the faster it will regain its shape. Deep creases will not disappear without the help of steam. Seasoned travellers often carry small steaming devices in their luggage similar to the ones used in shops to remove creases, or why not improvise and use the steam from a hot shower that‘s run for a while in your bathroom? Hanging

the garment in the steam will help it regain some shape, but don’t expect miracles with severely crushed suits. In most hotels, steam irons are available and the more expensive establishments usually offer a pressing service. It is not wise to rely on that option alone, however, as it may not be available on a ‚While-U-Wait‘ basis, so careful packing is always the best way to minimize the risk of having to wear a badly creased suit.

Bernhard Roetzel was born in Hanover in 1966, and spent part of his childhood in South Africa. After studying design, he worked as a copywriter at advertising agencies in Hamburg and Frankfurt and as a script editor for a television production company. Author of the popular Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design, Bernhard Roetzel has studied classic men’s fashion for more than ten years. Apart from his work as an author and editor, he also holds lectures and seminars on style issues. He is married and lives in Berlin, Germany.

However, if the worst does happen, for reasons that are beyond your control, don’t worry too much. A true gentleman may wear a slightly rumpled suit, but his stiff upper-lip will always be in place. Elegance, after all, is a state of mind. B.R.

The Bespoke Coach

www.bernhardroetzel.de

Photographers: by2 photoraphers www.bytwo.be Captions: Jérôme Stéfanski Model: Tomboy @Dominique Models Make-Up: Laetitia Dewilde @Touch by Dominique Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne @Scabal With thanks to Jet Airways, Samsonite Black Label, Anonimo Watches, Brussels Airport and Conrad International

www.jetairways.com www.samsoniteblacklabel.com Visit the new Samsonite Black Label store at Brussels Airport, Terminal A (opening Fall 2008). Bespoken

Watch: Opera Meccana, mod. 2009 by Anonimo, Firenze. Dual self-winding movement, 50 jewels, adjusted four positions. Suit: Scabal N°12, Super 150’s fabric Shirt and accessories: Scabal

Bespoken

The Bespoke Coach

www.bernhardroetzel.de

www.jetairways.com www.samsoniteblacklabel.com Visit the new Samsonite Black Label store at Brussels Airport, Terminal A (opening Fall 2008). Bespoken

- D -

Tailor’s Dictionary

- From D to F -

Always looking to improve dialogue between tailor and customer, Alan Cannon-Jones adds to his essential definitions of tailoring terms. After having dealt with A-C in our previous edition, he now goes for D, E and F.

Dart

Double Faced

A wedge shape that's removed from the surface area of a garment by stitching, or cutting and stitching.

A material that can be worn on either side.

Drawing (in tailoring) Draft

A variety of thin wadding

A construction plan for a garment; body and garment measures on paper or card.

Double Breasted

Drape

A jacket or coat with wrap-over fronts that has buttons and button-holes on each forepart.

An adjective that describes the way cloth falls when hung. Draping quality

Dommett

varies with structure, composition and finish of the material. A stitch drawn to achieve gathering or gauging of material. Dress

To take out dress from men’s trousers is to cut a section from one side to make it fit in balance with the other.

- E Easing in

The manipulation of additional material into a seam to create fullness.

garment. In tailoring, this is often a pick stitch. Ends

Edge Stitching

A decorative stitch along the edge of a

The warp yarns in a fabric.

Eye of the Buttonhole

The rounded end of the buttonhole into which the shank or neck of the button will pull when the garment is fastened.

- F Fabric

Another name for cloth. In the tailoring trade, this is usually limited to the woven fabric selected by the customer to make the garment. More generally, fabric can be knitted, woven or of a bonded nonwoven type. Face

The outside or ‘right side’ of the fabric that is visible when the garment is finished. Faced Cloth

This type of cloth has a ‘pile’ or ‘nap’ and, when brushed, is smooth in one direction and rough in the other. The cloth must be cut in one direction and could be velvet, corduroy, camel hair or vicuña. Facing

Tailor’s tools

Bespoken

The fabric that forms the top covering of the lapel on a jacket or coat, which usually folds to the inside of the garment from the top buttonhole. The lining

inside the jacket is attached to the facings. On a dinner jacket or tuxedo, the facing may be in silk.

Fine Drawing

Fall

Finished Cloth

The section of the collar between the crease and the leaf edge. Falls

A style of trouser front associated with the navy (sailors) that's also used on riding breeches and is the flap of cloth covering the abdomen that has vents on either side and a button fastening. Felling

The over-sewing of a piece of fabric by its edge, either raw or turned in onto the main body of material. In a bespoke garment this type of stitch is often used to sew the lining around the armhole. Filament

A fibre of indefinite length.

Invisible mending to repair faults in a fabric. Cloth that has been treated after its initial manufacture to make it suitable for intended end-use. The term also refers to treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, shrinking and adding easy-care properties. Fish

A dart cut at the waist of a garment to provide a closer fit. Flap

A shaped piece of cloth that provides a cover for a pocket mouth or is used for decoration. Fly

A cloth-covered opening to conceal a fastening, usually buttons or a zip. Most common as the front opening on a pair of Bespoken

- D -

Tailor’s Dictionary

- From D to F -

Dart

Double Faced

A wedge shape that's removed from the surface area of a garment by stitching, or cutting and stitching.

A material that can be worn on either side.

Drawing (in tailoring) Draft

A variety of thin wadding

A construction plan for a garment; body and garment measures on paper or card.

Double Breasted

Drape

A jacket or coat with wrap-over fronts that has buttons and button-holes on each forepart.

An adjective that describes the way cloth falls when hung. Draping quality

Dommett

varies with structure, composition and finish of the material. A stitch drawn to achieve gathering or gauging of material. Dress

To take out dress from men’s trousers is to cut a section from one side to make it fit in balance with the other.

- E Easing in

The manipulation of additional material into a seam to create fullness.

garment. In tailoring, this is often a pick stitch. Ends

Edge Stitching

A decorative stitch along the edge of a

The warp yarns in a fabric.

Eye of the Buttonhole

The rounded end of the buttonhole into which the shank or neck of the button will pull when the garment is fastened.

- F Fabric

The outside or ‘right side’ of the fabric that is visible when the garment is finished. Faced Cloth

Tailor’s tools

Bespoken

The fabric that forms the top covering of the lapel on a jacket or coat, which usually folds to the inside of the garment from the top buttonhole. The lining

inside the jacket is attached to the facings. On a dinner jacket or tuxedo, the facing may be in silk.

Fine Drawing

Fall

Finished Cloth

The section of the collar between the crease and the leaf edge. Falls

A fibre of indefinite length.

A dart cut at the waist of a garment to provide a closer fit. Flap

A shaped piece of cloth that provides a cover for a pocket mouth or is used for decoration. Fly

A cloth-covered opening to conceal a fastening, usually buttons or a zip. Most common as the front opening on a pair of Bespoken

trousers. The term also applies to a coat or jacket when the front buttons cannot be seen, as they are inside the fly.

seam horizontally and from the hem to the shoulder seam vertically.

in a part of the finished garment. For example, the sleeve.

French Seam

Fusible Interlining

The line of the fly fastening from the centre of the fork to the top of the waistband on a pair of trousers.

A seam within a seam. Two pieces of fabric sewn together, folded over and sewn again so that the edges are concealed.

An interlining that has been treated so it adheres to other fabrics via the application of heat and pressure.

Fork

Frog Mouth Pocket

The point on a pair of trousers at which the legs join.

A shaped trouser pocket cut at an angle and positioned below the waistband.

Foreparts

Fullness

The name given to the fronts of a jacket or coat. This section of the garment extends from the front edge to the side

The additional one ply of fabric joined to a seam that creates the desired shape

Flyline

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

SOMETHING IN THE HAIR

It takes real expertise and commitment to develop an exclusive new fabric. But Scabal has done just that for the Autumn-Winter collection – we talk to Scabal Group Chairman, J.P. Thissen.

Fusing

The action of bonding a fusible interlining to a garment section by the action of heat and pressure. To be continued… A. C. J.

First in the world

The Scientific Method As this edition of Bespoken is dedicated to ‘made-to-measure’ matters, it’s only appropriate that our ‘cut’ specialist offers a little advice on this ancestral, traditional technique. The ‘Scientific Method’ for cutting menswear uses height and chest measurements to determine the body’s proportions. Using the ‘height plus chest’ formula, the cutter is able to

determine all other required measurements. The formula: Height plus chest measure, divided by eight. The following method is also used — half the chest measure equals the drafting scale, eg if the chest measure is 40 inches then the scale is 20. This scale is used to determine all other body proportions for which the cutter does not have direct

measurements. For example, if the depth of the armhole is half of the scale, ie 10 inches, the measure from the centre back neck to the shoulderblade line used to determine the width of the half back is one quarter of the scale, ie five inches. More intricate measurements, such as the gorge line from the collar seam could be one twelth of the scale plus three eigths of an inch.

Working with a specialist spinner, Scabal has produced an extraordinary fabric for the new season: the world’s first-ever 100 percent worsted spun Vicuña suiting. “There is an emotional and a commercial side to our business,” says J. P. Thissen, Chairman and guardian of Scabal’s traditional values. “Vicuña is definitely on the emotional side. It is the finest natural fabric in the world and our 100 percent worsted spun Vicuña suiting is the first ever to be produced. The new fabric is pure magic – a prestigious cloth for true connoisseurs.” © Colombo S.P.A.

The short, fleecy Vicuña hair is expertly sorted by hand, retaining only those fibres long enough for the hi-tech worsted spinning process. “The result is an unbelievably soft and smooth fabric with an easy, elegant drape. A mystical cloth, only available in limited quantities to the world’s best tailors.”

Vicuña: The finest animal fibre

Alan Cannon Jones was born in St. Albans, England. After leaving school, he took an apprenticeship as a tailor with Nicholson & Co. During this time, he attended the London College of Fashion to gain his tailoring qualifications. Nicholson&Co. was later taken over by Chester Barrie but Alan continued to work with them, eventually becoming Production Manager. He is now the Director of Menswear and Bespoke Tailoring at the London College of Fashion and continues to work as a consultant in the industry. He is also a regular contributor to conferences on the subjects of menswear, bespoke tailoring and mass customisation. Alan Cannon Jones, London College of Fashion 24

Bespoken

Revered by Inca royalty, Vicuña hair has always been sought for its fleecy softness. The shy, longnecked South American animal grazes high in the Andes and is a member of the camel family. Its hollow, air-filled fleece is sheared, washed and dried by hand. Hunting almost drove the Vicuña to extinction but, thanks to protection programmes, numbers have rised once more. Today, there are around 150,000, mainly found in Peru.

Choosing vicuña hair in Peru

Cashmere comeback

“‘Dreamline’ is manufactured with the very latest spinning technology, has good drape and tailors easily — we are introducing around thirty different designs in this quality.”

Smooth, soft and luxurious, Cashmere is similar in many ways to Vicuña, although the fibres are longer and less difficult to work with. Unfortunately, the Cashmere label has been falsely imitated on the international market, and many discerning buyers have shied away.

Always looking for something special

Another prestigious new collection, ‘Dreamline’, is a 100 percent worsted spun Cashmere for suiting.

“Our new worsted spun Cashmere gives us a chance to re-establish this noble fibre and bring lovers of luxury back,” says Thissen.

Completing a trio of innovations in the new collection is Four Seasons: a 280 gramme Super 120’s ‘year round’ suiting range (see page 34). “Scabal is renowned for its research,” Thissen adds, “and ‘Four Seasons’ is a good example.”

Bespoken

trousers. The term also applies to a coat or jacket when the front buttons cannot be seen, as they are inside the fly.

seam horizontally and from the hem to the shoulder seam vertically.

in a part of the finished garment. For example, the sleeve.

French Seam

Fusible Interlining

The line of the fly fastening from the centre of the fork to the top of the waistband on a pair of trousers.

A seam within a seam. Two pieces of fabric sewn together, folded over and sewn again so that the edges are concealed.

An interlining that has been treated so it adheres to other fabrics via the application of heat and pressure.

Fork

Frog Mouth Pocket

The point on a pair of trousers at which the legs join.

A shaped trouser pocket cut at an angle and positioned below the waistband.

Foreparts

Fullness

The name given to the fronts of a jacket or coat. This section of the garment extends from the front edge to the side

The additional one ply of fabric joined to a seam that creates the desired shape

Flyline

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

SOMETHING IN THE HAIR

It takes real expertise and commitment to develop an exclusive new fabric. But Scabal has done just that for the Autumn-Winter collection – we talk to Scabal Group Chairman, J.P. Thissen.

Fusing

The action of bonding a fusible interlining to a garment section by the action of heat and pressure. To be continued… A. C. J.

First in the world

Vicuña: The finest animal fibre

Bespoken

Choosing vicuña hair in Peru

Cashmere comeback

“‘Dreamline’ is manufactured with the very latest spinning technology, has good drape and tailors easily — we are introducing around thirty different designs in this quality.”

Always looking for something special

Another prestigious new collection, ‘Dreamline’, is a 100 percent worsted spun Cashmere for suiting.

“Our new worsted spun Cashmere gives us a chance to re-establish this noble fibre and bring lovers of luxury back,” says Thissen.

Bespoken

‘There is an emotional and a commercial side to our business and Vicuña is definitely on the emotional side’

The ‘Chaccu ceremony’, involving the capture and shearing of the vicuña. The festivities take place once every two years with around 2,000 campesinos. This Pre-Hispanic ritual involves the formation of a human chain to gather the grazing vicuña, moving them into funnel-shaped corrals. Once there, the animals are sheared and then released back into the wild.

Woven in Scabal’s Huddersfield mill in England, the ‘Four Seasons’ collection will have more than eighty designs in a variety of colours and designs reflecting current tastes – all of them in mid or dark shades. The wool is eco-friendly – a special feature of ‘Four Seasons’. The yarn is made with natural wool from animals 26

Bespoken

raised on land free of herbicides, pesticides and artificial fertilisers. Sheep are also kept in small flocks both for their and the environment's benefit. Although the amount of wool produced in this way is still relatively small, the approach focuses very strongly on animal welfare and environmental protection. “We have also applied a very special finish to the cloth,” Thissen reveals. “State-of-theart silver-ion technology embeds nano silver particles into the fabric, helping to keep it hygienic, fresh and resistant to dry cleaning throughout the life of the garment.”

N.B

J.P. Thissen, Chairman Scabal Group

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

“Air conditioning in the summer and central heating in the winter has created demand for ‘year round’ suiting. We saw that our hunch was correct: people want medium and dark shades for business meetings and formal occasions, not white or beige. Dark colours carry authority.”

‘Dreamline’ collection: a 100 percent worsted spun Cashmere for suiting

Bespoken

‘There is an emotional and a commercial side to our business and Vicuña is definitely on the emotional side’

Bespoken

N.B

J.P. Thissen, Chairman Scabal Group

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

‘Dreamline’ collection: a 100 percent worsted spun Cashmere for suiting

Bespoken

Unique like you

One of this season’s innovations is undoubtedly the ‘made-to-measure’ shirt.

n the south of Tuscany, in the heart of the mountains, there exists a centre of excellence that's far removed from ‘mass production’, where time seems to have stood still on hold and where 60 workers strive daily towards the same goal: the search for supreme quality. Their mission? To produce exceptional madeto-measure shirts.

FINEST EUROPEAN FABRICS

Not too surprising, then, that Scabal chose such a competent partner. The two firms share many values: craftsmanship, the finest fabrics, personalization and know-how. As Scabal Sales & Product Director Olivier Vander Slock enthusiastically declares: “Because we needed our ‘madeto-measure’ shirts to be of the same quality as our suits, after many months of research, we finally decided to work with this Italian workshop, which specializes in prestigious fabrics such as Egyptian and Sea-Island cotton, as well as the finest linen.” Finished Products Director Matthias Rollmann adds: “The workers there use with the most refined fabrics. Prestigious brands such as La Perla are also customers. Imagine the highest-quality fabric combined with traditional artistry, then transfer this craftsmanship to an accessory: you have the Scabal made-tomeasure shirt! ”

UNIQUE CUT

The unique ‘made-to-measure’ shirt display’ dedicated to Scabal’s shirts

Imagine the highest-quality fabric combined with traditional artistry, then transfer this craftsmanship to an accessory: you have the Scabal made-to-measure shirt! 28

Bespoken

In fact, many manufacturers proudly boast ‘made-to-measure’ shirts in their collection, but few can claim to have perfected this accessory. But Scabal can – according to Rollman: “The styling, the cut, is definitively different from mass-produced garments, and even from other made-to-measure shirts.” The armholes are smaller, the cut to the body is tighter and the sleeves are measured to the nearest millimetre. Result – a shirt that’s as well cut as the Scabal suit you wear, an accessory that combines style and comfort to perfection. This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

BESPOKE LEITMOTIV

In addition to the fabric’s quality and the precision of its cut, many finishing touches are also offered to render the shirt unique: ‘tails’ personalized with Scabal’s colours, three different styles of buttonhole, seven collar varieties (with white collar and white cuffs also available), a handkerchief in the same fabric as the shirt, embroidered initials as well as different sleeve lengths and cuff sizes for left and right arms. And not forgetting the most important detail: 300 different fabrics are always available.

SPEEDY PROCESS

If you’re eager to acquire a made-tomeasure Scabal shirt, you can choose from a small number of selected outlets: “We wanted to limit the number of retailers who market this accessory,” Olivier Vander Slock explains. “This was necessary, because it’s all about an exclusive product reserved for a selective clientele. For this reason, we do not foresee adding more than fifteen outlets each year.” “In the store, the customer will be impressed by the care that we take in presenting this product,” Vander Slock adds. “We have created a prestigious and innovative display using a tailor’s dummy – the shirts presented here are the jewels in the crown.” A Scabal made-to-measure shirt is fitted by taking exact measurements on the basis of a ‘try-on’ shirt – in this way, the customer has the opportunity clearly to explain his preferences so that his shirt will be as comfortable as possible. Scabal’s made-to-measure shirts service produces shirts to please even the most demanding clients. Just four weeks after the order has been placed, the shirt will be available in store, with a certificate of authenticity. A garment that’s guaranteed unique, to match your personality. Scabal made-to-measure shirt: From approx. 200 E to 400 E (retail price). www.scabal.com

A shirt FOR YOU

Dampen shirt before ironing

CARING FOR YOUR SHIRT In the 1950s, shirts were starched to allow them to be worn longer. Since the advent of the washing machine, shirts could be washed daily and no longer need to be starched. It was frequently advised that a shirt should be put in a pillowcase or turned inside out before washing, in order to protect the fabric, but neither ritual is now necessary. A quality shirt can – also without special treatment – be washed on a weekly basis for five or six years before the first wear spots become visible. However, it’s always important to respect the washing instructions. It is best to remove the shirt from the clothesline when it is still wet so it can be ironed easily. However, if it’s too dry, dampen it again with a plant spray and leave it for 30 minutes in a plastic bag. Start ironing with the sleeves, which is always best done on a sleeveboard. Iron from the middle of the sleeve, finish with the cuffs. Then place the shirt on the ironing board, inside face up and iron, paying attention to the fold. Repeat on the other side. Then iron the collar, beginning with the points and ironing towards the middle to avoid creases. Turn the collar around and iron again, inserting the collarbones afterwards. Last step – iron the shirt’s two front panels, taking care around the buttons. Ironed shirts are best kept on hangers. J.S. Bespoken

Unique like you

One of this season’s innovations is undoubtedly the ‘made-to-measure’ shirt.

FINEST EUROPEAN FABRICS

UNIQUE CUT

The unique ‘made-to-measure’ shirt display’ dedicated to Scabal’s shirts

Imagine the highest-quality fabric combined with traditional artistry, then transfer this craftsmanship to an accessory: you have the Scabal made-to-measure shirt! 28

Bespoken

BESPOKE LEITMOTIV

SPEEDY PROCESS

A shirt FOR YOU

Dampen shirt before ironing

AUTUMN-WINTER 2008-2009 Trends

PERSONAL CHOICE Today, we are increasingly robbed of individual freedom. Thankfully, there are still ways in which we can express our individuality…

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702090 Tailor's jacket, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

AUTUMN-WINTER 2008-2009 Trends

PERSONAL CHOICE Today, we are increasingly robbed of individual freedom. Thankfully, there are still ways in which we can express our individuality…

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702090 Tailor's jacket, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

ade to measure. Others notice it instantly. Not only by the way you look (you will of course look fantastic) but by the way you feel. Because the inner satisfaction of wearing high-quality tailored clothing is plainly visible to the whole world.

Jacket, ‘Donegal’, ref. 851593 Tailor's jacket, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702081

Jacket, ‘Donegal’, ref. 851593 Tailor's jacket, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702081

hat is freedom? To be rich? To wield power? To enjoy success with women? No, surely not. True freedom is the ability to be yourself, and express your uniqueness as you wish.

Jacket, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

Suit, ‘Four Seasons’, ref. 751222

hat is freedom? To be rich? To wield power? To enjoy success with women? No, surely not. True freedom is the ability to be yourself, and express your uniqueness as you wish.

Jacket, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

Suit, ‘Four Seasons’, ref. 751222

ith a choice of more than

5,000 fabrics and options such as customized pockets, embroidered initials and special buttons, Scabal gives you an exclusive suit that’s tailored to your body and your mind. Deliverable within three weeks.

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702094

ith a choice of more than

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702094

Made-to-measure shirt collection

n years gone by, civilised food was followed by civilised pastimes, such as croquet, badminton or butterfly collecting. After savouring the delicacies of lunch, fresh country air invites you to engage in activity, be it a leisurely stroll or a minor expedition. Keeping your clothing in perfect condition will prove the least of your worries.

Made-to-measure shirt collection

Personalized options

Dinner jacket, ‘Velvets’, ref. 580711 Trousers, ‘The Royal Classics’, ref. 700735

Made-to-measure shirt collection

Personalized options

Dinner jacket, ‘Velvets’, ref. 580711 Trousers, ‘The Royal Classics’, ref. 700735

e have in these times been

largely robbed of individual freedom. The trend to restriction and standardization sweeps all before it like a tide. Even quality can now be cloned. Thankfully there are still a few ways in which we can retain our personal liberty…

Cutaway, ‘Festival’, ref. 851763 Waistcoat, ‘Festival’, ref. 851175 Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702090.

Trousers, ‘Festival’, ref. 851764

Jacket tailor, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

Suit tailor, ‘Masterclass’, ref. 751202

e have in these times been

Cutaway, ‘Festival’, ref. 851763 Waistcoat, ‘Festival’, ref. 851175 Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702090.

Trousers, ‘Festival’, ref. 851764

Jacket tailor, ‘Loch Fyne’, ref. 851649

Suit tailor, ‘Masterclass’, ref. 751202

hat a man can be, he must be observed Maslow, recognizing that our ultimate goal in life is to reach our full potential. But he also understood that this could only be achieved if we have personal freedom – the right to express our personality openly.

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702081

Text: Nigel Bishop Photos: Frank Uyttenhove Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Model: Herman Hanekamp Tailor: Jean-Pierre Bongiorno

Tailor's suit, ‘Masterclass’, ref. 751202

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702081

Text: Nigel Bishop Photos: Frank Uyttenhove Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Model: Herman Hanekamp Tailor: Jean-Pierre Bongiorno

Tailor's suit, ‘Masterclass’, ref. 751202

Scabal Group

Made IN Scabal

In the late 1980s, when Scabal acquired a majority stake in Tailor Hoff, there was little talk within the industry of relocating to eastern Europe or the Far East. Over the past ten years that has radically changed – the western European manufacturing industry looks increasingly barren, yet Scabal has never succumbed to the lure of low-cost, off-shore production.

It is not only about historical ties. Quality assurance, market proximity, accumulated know-how in customized production and long-term consistency have also been equally important

bviously, Scabal’s strong relationship with its production partners has influenced this stance – the company’s third generation coownership and involvement in the daily management, are all part of the success story, and fit perfectly into the Scabal group philosophy. It is not only about historical ties. Quality assurance, market proximity, accumulated know-how in customized production and long-term consistency have also been equally important. Scabal strongly believe that full control of the production process guarantees its competitive advantage. It is this conviction that has led Scabal to invest further in Tailor Hoff, ranging from technology (cutting computers, online systems) to highly skilled personnel. © C. Levêcque

Inside Scabal ‘made-to-measure’

Tailor Hoff in Saarbrücken

Bespoken

What provides a company with ‘mystique’? Its business philosophy, operational structure, or founding family? For Scabal, it’s all three. And it’s a constant evolutionary process…

Scabal has evolved from a small European fabric merchant to a significant international niche player at the luxury end of men's clothing. The company employs 600 people, operates 12 companies and does business in 60 countries. What’s more, it got there by bucking major industry trends and holding on to its own ideals. First, as the world standardised, Scabal customised. The company realised that people are individuals – and are willing to pay for the privilege of having individuality honoured. No surprise, then, that Scabal became one of the most successful ‘personalisers’. Secondly, as other companies flattened and out-sourced to lower-cost producers, Scabal stayed in Europe and integrated vertically. It manufactures its own highquality fabrics in England, produces the finest ready-to-wear and made-to-measure menswear in Germany, holds fabric stocks in Brussels, produces a range of exclusive accessories in Italy and sells all these products to the most prestigious clients around the world.

Scabal-land

At the heart of the Scabal mystique is its made-to-measure Tailor Hoff manufacturing facility in Saarbrücken, Germany. This is the power house of its customisation policy; the driver of personalisation and product quality in the worldwide operation.

And, when you visit Tailor Hoff, you can see why. Craftsmanship and traditional skills are combined with seamless technology and attention to detail. An advanced computerised system guides each piece of cloth through the processes that transform it into a luxury garment. Tailor Hoff is working with IT specialists to develop a web-based online madeto-measure ordering system for its B2B clients. One of their strong competitive advantages lies in the short delivery times, only 10-14 days.

Every piece unique

When orders arrive by email or fax, they are first encoded into their IT system. The encoded order is like the individual garment’s DNA – unique and different from all others in the system. It produces a production label that travels with the garment, ready to be scanned at every work station. Once encoded in the IT system, this ‘DNA’ dictates every cut, stitch and process in the creation of the unique made-to-measure garment. Computer Aided Design (CAD) then optimises the cloth usage, calculating and illustrating the most efficient way of cutting the cloth to make the garment. This data goes to the cutting room, while an automated IT interface orders the cloth from Scabal stocks in Brussels. Delivery vans cover the 300 kilometres every day.

Bespoken

Scabal Group

Made IN Scabal

It is not only about historical ties. Quality assurance, market proximity, accumulated know-how in customized production and long-term consistency have also been equally important

Inside Scabal ‘made-to-measure’

Tailor Hoff in Saarbrücken

Bespoken

What provides a company with ‘mystique’? Its business philosophy, operational structure, or founding family? For Scabal, it’s all three. And it’s a constant evolutionary process…

Scabal-land

Every piece unique

Bespoken

TAILOR Hoff is working with IT specialists to develop a web-based online made-to-measure ordering system for its B2B clients

Production is like an advanced automobile plant – customized orders, no inventory, just-in-time delivery of components, production to order, short delivery times…all driven by qualitycontrol measurements and customer satisfaction levels.

“Organisation is the key to made-tomeasure on this scale. 130 more jackets today… an extra trouser line on Saturday… production control and planning is examined every day. If you offer speedy delivery dates, you’re always under pressure.”

“Due to our high proportion of made-tomeasure business, we only have a two-week planning cycle,” says Patrick Schudel, production manager. “From a planning point of view, this is challenging. Sure, we can fill some gaps in production with our 20% of seasonal orders, but otherwise it is a neverending story of balancing quality, costs and delivery dates.

The work is done to the nearest millimetre by computer controlled blades, guided by the data scanned from the production label. The old way, involving 50 cutters, has been replaced by 12 computers. Linings are cut in similar fashion. To optimize the use of these expensive machines, Hoff has two teams of operators who work from 6 – 22h.

One of the most demanding tasks is sewing jacket sleeves onto the suit body. Around 20 of the most senior seamstresses are used here, expertly attaching more than 600 sleeves every day.

In line with Scabal’s philosophy of retail partnership, all customers receive an in depth training of the system.

Quality control

Traditional techniques

Bespoken

Let’s follow the cloth as it moves around this modern master tailor’s workshop and see how a luxury garment is manufactured in a highly efficient yet traditional way. Production starts with shrinking each piece of cloth that arrives in 135°C temperatures. This ensures that the cloth is shrunk to its maximum before the production process begins, avoiding the risk of further shrinkage later during the steam pressing of the finished item.

Now we step into the sewing department: the engine room of this customisation cruise liner. This is where your suit is put together, exactly as ordered. The sewing is done the traditional way – machine sewing guided by skilful hands – accompanied by the inevitable production label. Pockets and lining are also sewn in.

Craftsmanship means each piece is unique

After adding the customer's personal requirements, such as initials engraved on the buttons or embroidered on the inside pocket, contrasted lining, special pockets and many others (there are more than 100 options to choose from) we pass to quality control. This is serious business at Tailor Hoff. There are continual checks throughout the manufacturing process, all documented to provide daily and weekly quality statistics. These are examined and discussed by production and management at regular meetings, so that any problems can be quickly remedied. Bespoken

TAILOR Hoff is working with IT specialists to develop a web-based online made-to-measure ordering system for its B2B clients

One of the most demanding tasks is sewing jacket sleeves onto the suit body. Around 20 of the most senior seamstresses are used here, expertly attaching more than 600 sleeves every day.

In line with Scabal’s philosophy of retail partnership, all customers receive an in depth training of the system.

Quality control

Traditional techniques

Bespoken

Craftsmanship means each piece is unique

As the world standardised, Scabal customised

Management view

Tim Weber, a third generation of the former owners of Tailor Hoff, is responsible for Administration and Production. “Tailor Hoff and Scabal pioneered madeto-measure production after starting together in 1978. Today we are the clear market leader in Europe. “We have achieved this position by manufacturing luxury menswear the traditional way but with the best available industrial equipment and technology, including state-of-the-art CAD construction and cutting. Scabal was one of the very first medium-sized companies in Europe to adopt SAP IT systems.”

Choice of buttons

“Our ambition is to improve data on our manufacturing process and quality management, to better define processes and methods that produce quality. Improving Scabal quality standards is always our goal,” Patrick Schudel explains. The garments are now ironed: by hand for outside body and inside lining, delicately by machine for sleeves and collars. Scabal’s most delicate fabrics, such as superfine worsteds, cashmeres or silks are all steam ironed manually. 50

Bespoken

After a final inspection, garments are packed and shipped, usually within ten working days of the order's receipt at the factory.

TAILOR Hoff History

1936: Founded in Saarbrücken by Herbert Hoff 1960: Scabal starts supplying fabrics 1974: Taken over by A Weber Moden GmbH & Co KG 1976: Scabal becomes ready-to-wear customer 1978: Tailor Hoff starts made-to-measure 1989: Scabal takes majority share 2008: More than 50,000 made-tomeasure suits produced annually

“Our success is due to our customer proximity and high flexibility as a result of our location here in Germany. We have well educated and motivated employees who are able to use our technology efficiently and provide customers with very high quality clothing within short deadlines.” Matthias Rollman, Director of the garment division, explains how Scabal brings customers added value. “In our production, every piece is unique. We don’t make series of 10s and 20s; every cut is different. Without doubt, our European origin and production enables us to maintain our high level of customisation, quality and timing flexibility. “We also provide special services to the retailers. We help them overcome problems of undercapitalization and heavy

inventory; we can improve their bottom line because we don’t force them to hold excessive stock.” “We help them to rethink their customer relationship. We run workshops for salespeople and buyers, teaching them about fabrics, how to advise customers, how to take measurements and sell madeto-measure. We help them maximise sales per square metre and keep key customers.” “Our biggest challenge with made-tomeasure? To make sure we deliver on our promises of quality, timing and details. It’s all about service. Scabal does customisation successfully because we are vertically integrated: we make the fabric, we make the garment.” Gregor Thissen, CEO Scabal Group, gives his point of view on customisation. “Jokingly we sometimes say that, had we known beforehand all the challenges of made-to-measure garment production, we would probably never have started. It is truly a difficult and complex task for our production team, but there is also huge satisfaction to be had from the fact that we have been able to face the challenge and are today considered as the most advanced and complete supplier of personalised clothing. Our people are doing a fantastic job and deserve a lot of credit.”

Tim Weber, Tailor Hoff MD

Why Made-to-Measure?

1 2

You have a particular style or customisation you want.

You can’t find anything readymade that matches what you’re looking for. Made-to-measure is the only way to get exclusive, personalised clothing. Your body shape might need it.

When you are measured, your tailor starts with a standard size and then measures the variations (sleeves, legs, waist, chest). The rest is up to Scabal…

N.B.

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

Bespoken

As the world standardised, Scabal customised

Management view

Choice of buttons

Bespoken

After a final inspection, garments are packed and shipped, usually within ten working days of the order's receipt at the factory.

TAILOR Hoff History

Tim Weber, Tailor Hoff MD

Why Made-to-Measure?

1 2

You have a particular style or customisation you want.

You can’t find anything readymade that matches what you’re looking for. Made-to-measure is the only way to get exclusive, personalised clothing. Your body shape might need it.

When you are measured, your tailor starts with a standard size and then measures the variations (sleeves, legs, waist, chest). The rest is up to Scabal…

N.B.

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

Bespoken

Tailor-man

Miguel Câncio Martins: Charm professional

Celebrated Portuguese architect Miguel Câncio Martins, 43, paid a visit to Scabal’s Brussels headquarters, to order a made-to-measure suit and answer our questions. An excellent opportunity to meet a man with a magnetic and relaxed personality.

Miguel being measured up

astonish his clients and the public. He has no fear, for example, of reinterpreting Asian classical styles for Asian clients: Miguel combines elements from various cultural backgrounds, taking risks, presenting luxurious projects that are blended with baroque or tribal elements. Câncio Martins’ success story is very much related to the cultural and social environment in which he began his career in Belgium – initially studying architecture at Brussels’ ISA Saint Luc then working for a few years in agencies such as Structure, Pierre Arnould and Schotte&Proesmans. In 1998, still in Brussels, he opened his own agency, CM&P. Then, our

Portuguese designer decided that another stimulating environment was needed. In 2002 he created the MCMdesign Agency, and followed up on his haut gamme locations such as Bar Fly (1995), Buddha Bar (1996), Man Ray (1998) and Jaipur (2000). Jet-setters and rich entrepreneurs, fascinated with an idealized sophisticated nightlife and by Martins’ ethnic style, promote the architect’s work all over the world. Specializing in interior design and decoration, Miguel creates a landmark on every continent, designing not only bars, restaurants and clubs but also working for large hotel chains, shops, casinos and even private apartments and villas.

hen a client enters Miguel Câncio Martins’ Parisian showroom with a project already very much in mind, he or she needs a man who can make the dream real. With this Portuguese prodigy, you feel as relaxed as you would taking a libation in Paris’s Buddha Bar restaurant or enjoying a glamorous night on the town in Flavio Briatore’s Billionaire club on the Italian-Pearl Porto Cervo. Miguel is always capable of completing made-to-measure projects that

Miguel's personalized two-button suit with slanted pockets. He chose a ‘Lifestyle’ collection fabric (ref. 702084), a Super 120's with Cashmere. In addition to the colour of lining and buttons, Miguel chose the following options: working button holes with ‘kissing buttons’, soft shoulder pads and light interlinings, righthand mobile phone pocket, a contrasting felt undercollar, contrasting piping and matching stitching in the lining, also with ‘MCM’ embroidery. And a Scabal made-to-measure shirt to complete the outfit, of course… 52

Bespoken

The trendy Vermilion & Cinnabar in Manchester, UK. Bespoken

Tailor-man

Miguel Câncio Martins: Charm professional

Miguel being measured up

Bespoken

The trendy Vermilion & Cinnabar in Manchester, UK. Bespoken

Bespoken: Why are you fascinated by Asia, Africa and their ethnic styles?

Fabrics are also essential to architecture. How do you use them in your projects?

What’s your fashion style? Casual or classic?

Miguel Câncio Martins: In the times that we live and where we live, we are always influenced by other cultures, so I was inspired by and started using these continents’ ethnic elements. It happened that I began working for Asian people on restaurant projects, then I became more involved in their culture. Here, there is a highly defined sense of detail and the finishes are always very important – that’s why I try to insert these elements into my work.

Fabrics are very important because they represent the final touch that you can see and feel. I really like to choose them in my office, to see the very wide selection that’s available. Sometimes, I choose them immediately, but other times I have doubts, so I wait a little, then follow my inspiration. Fabrics must be authentic, innovative and of a very high quality. It would be very nice to use Scabal cloth to cover furniture such as chairs or sofas…

I’m a chameleon – I can wear a suit or adopt a casual style. I worked with Armani, and he was always dressed in the same way, which was surprising for me, because he was so creative. For me, it also depends on the occasion, sometimes I like to show off with colourful Kenzo suits and sometimes I’m more relaxed.

How do you approach your ‘made-tomeasure’ clients? When I arrived here, the number of questions that I had to answer about details was amazing: the number of buttons, the type of pockets, fabrics, etc. But, when I received my made-to-measure suit and I saw the result of all the work, it was obviously thanks to the attention paid to details. In my job, it’s the same; when you enter a restaurant and you feel good from the word go, it’s because every detail has been addressed.

Why is light so fundamental to your bespoke projects? Light is the way that we show things. I get angry in my work when I see that we haven’t controlled the light environment, just having spot-lights and that’s it. It’s the worst thing that you can do. I really like to work with light specialists, but unfortunately there are not as many as you might think. In England, there is a respected academy but the rest of Europe and the world don’t seem to understand light’s importance. It’s only via illumination that you can truly create and manipulate atmosphere. How would you describe your ideal made-to-measure house? My house is never finished – maybe it’s better to talk about my clients’ houses! In fact, I think that no-one’s house is ever truly finished – one thing I don’t like is being in a house where you can’t touch anything because it resembles a museum. A house should always be an ongoing process and, even when I have finished a project, the client can ask for advice and work on other areas. I hate people to think that they have to choose everything that they want immediately, then stop.

You travel for inspiration. Do you travel ‘made-to measure’?

Miguel wears his new made-to-measure Scabal suit 54

Bespoken

I hardly ever take holidays for their own sake – I travel sometimes with my daughter and, during my journeys, I always meet people, explore the culture and go to showrooms. For example, I had the chance to go to Bora Bora recently to visit a client, but it was half work, half vacation. I try to pay attention to everything I see – I like to have a ‘library’ in my head.

Can you tell me about your future projects? We are now working on a hotel in Marrakesh, an Indian restaurant in Glasgow, Italian restaurants in Luxemburg, Portugal, Canada, some casinos in Holland, private apartments in Lisbon and Amsterdam and two discos, one in Düsseldorf and the other in Dublin. I normally prefer to talk only about the projects I’m working on at the moment, not future assignments.

Another classic : Hotel Heritage, Lisbon, Portugal, 2006.

What do you like about hotel projects? I love hotels and the hotel business’s atmosphere. Incidentally, I would like very much to open my own hotel resort in Portugal, probably more then one. VIPs are often involved in your projects. How is your relationship with the jet-set? In my world,they're often involved because you meet rich people – models, actors, tennis players etc, and they are are a very good advertisement for my work. The jet-set is a very transient life and I believe that we have to use what we have. There are far more important things in life. Interview by F. G.

A sketch of the Hotel Heritage suite

Curriculum Vitae

Family name: Câncio Martins First name: Miguel Date of birth: 15th May, 1965 Place of birth: Lisbon, Portugal Nationality: Portuguese Distinctions: 2006: Order of Merit Medal, Paris, France 2006: Talent Prize, Lisbon, Portugal 2006: 1st Prize at Studio Equip’ Hôtel, Paris, France 1994: Nominee at Expo 98, Lisbon 1992: 1st Prize in the Ideas Competition for the Lisbon 1 Project, Expo 98

Main designs:

EUROPE Duke’s and You, Brussels, Belgium (2006 & 2004) Les Jardins De Roland Garros Restaurant, Stade Roland Garros Paris, France (2004) Man Ray Bar, Paris, France (1998) Buddha Bar, Paris, France (1996) Doc Cheng restaurant, Hamburg, Germany (1998) Vermillion & Cinnabar, Manchester, Great Britain (2007) Grand Hôtel Cristallo,Club Méditerranée, Cervinia, Italy (2001) Hotel Heritage, Lisbon, Portugal (2006) Hotel Badrutt, Saint-Moritz, Switzerland (1999)

AFRICA Pacha, Pacha Jana and Pacha Crystal, Marrakech, Morocco (2004) ASIA Hotel Raffles, Singapour (2000) NORTHERN AMERICA Cavalli Restaurant, MED bar and Hotel W, Montreal, Canada (2004) Plein Sud NY store, New York, USA (1999)

MCM DESIGN

Passage du Grand Cerf, 1 75002 Paris, France T: +33 (0)1 4233 0056 www.mcmdesign.com

Bespoken

Bespoken: Why are you fascinated by Asia, Africa and their ethnic styles?

Fabrics are also essential to architecture. How do you use them in your projects?

What’s your fashion style? Casual or classic?

You travel for inspiration. Do you travel ‘made-to measure’?

Miguel wears his new made-to-measure Scabal suit 54

Bespoken

Another classic : Hotel Heritage, Lisbon, Portugal, 2006.

A sketch of the Hotel Heritage suite

Curriculum Vitae

Main designs:

MCM DESIGN

Passage du Grand Cerf, 1 75002 Paris, France T: +33 (0)1 4233 0056 www.mcmdesign.com

Bespoken

AGENDA

MEASURED MOMENTS

Bespoken offers a worldwide selection of cultural, sporting and fashion events. Remember, measuring up is key…

TASTE TEST

Real food – as opposed to fast food – will once again be the subject of La Semaine du Goût, celebrated across the gastronomic centres of Bordeaux, France. During this fabulous event, top chefs and cooks, farmers, writers and restaurateurs unite to bring the rich French gastronomic tradition to the whole of the country, from dégustations to cooking workshops, demonstrations and gourmet exhibitions. Pleasure is the central theme, with each region celebrating the joys of local produce and recipes. La Semaine du Goût 13>19.10.08 France Information on venues available at www.legout.com

HIGH NOTES

Italy’s home of opera, Teatro alla Scala (La Scala) in Milan, brings its 2007-2008 run to an end in October and November, before the traditional launch of next year's season on 7 December, which is St Ambrose’s Day, Milan’s patron saint. An unsurpassed operatic experience, La Scala was re-opened following extensive renovations in 2005, and holds the world record for most rows of ‘box seats’ (six),

Inside La Scala

Bespoken

stacked one on top of each other. Time is of the essence here – according to strict tradition, all performances must end before midnight and, as for turning up late, don’t even think about it. You’ll be refused entry if the performance has already begun, as none other than Sir Richard Burton once discovered… La Scala New Season 07.12.08 Via Filodrammatici, 2 Milan, Italy T.+39 (0)2 72 003 744 www.teatroallascala.org

GOLF TO A TEE

Legendary golfer Arnold Palmer, who won the Bob Hope Chrysler Classic five times, is set to host its 50th anniversary in 2009. Palmer has played the Classic for 42 of its 50 years – he’s as much a feature of the Coachella Valley as the tournament itself. Since the beginning of the Bob Hope Chrysler Classic in 1960, the tournament has donated $45.5 million to charities throughout the Coachella Valley – a legendary legacy. Bob Hope Chrysler Classic Hosted by Arnold Palmer 19>25.01.09 39000 Bob Hope Drive Rancho Mirage Coachella Valley California 92270 USA T. +1 888 672 4673 www.bhcc.com

MARQUES OF A MAN

While the male fashion shows of Paris, New York, London and Milan are in the constant glare of publicity the world over, the lesser-known shows from the four corners of the globe are also more than worth a visit. Made-to-measure excellence, in all its glory. Rio de Janeiro Fashion Week 05>10.01.09 Mario da Glória, Rio de Janeiro www.fashionrio.com.br MercedesBenz Fashionweek Berlin 25>29.01.09 Postbanhof Strasse der Parisier Kommune, 3-10 Berlin, Germany T.+49 (0)30 889 2289 0 www.mercedesbenzfashionweekberlin.com L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival 01>08.03.09 Collins Street East Victoria 8003 Australia T. +61 3 9654 5599 www.lmff.com.au

TRAIN OF THOUGHT

The real Trans-Siberian is a Russian train that covers 9,259 kilometres from Moscow to Vladivostok in a week and is one of the world’s longest train journeys. Do it once in your life – from Moscow via Irkutsk to Vladivostok, you will enjoy unparalleled service and luxury as your train takes you through some of the world’s most untamed, savagely beautiful wilderness and enchanting, mysterious Russian cities. Nevsky prospekt, 105 191036 St. Petersburg, Russia T. +7(812) 327 34 16 www.ostwest.com

FALLING STARS

The Four Hills Ski Jump Tournament takes place in Germany and Austria every year, traditionally in the resorts of Oberstdorf, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bischofshofen and Innsbruck. It’s third only to the World Cup and the Winter Olympics as the most sought-after title on the ski-jumping circuit, and it’s all about measurement – from speed on take-off to longest distance jumped, it’s a Mecca for stat-lovers, as well as being simply one of the most exciting ski tournaments in the world. Jack Wolfskin Four Hills Ski Jump Tournament January 2009 (dates tbc) Bergisel Ski Jump Pastorstraße 7, 6020 Innsbruck, Austria T. +43 (0)512 2150 104 www.bergisel.info www.4schanzentournee.com (German)

Fashion week in Rio de Janeiro - January 2009

SPOT THE BALLS

The Asia/Pacific Grand Slam tennis tournament, the Australian Open, has previously fallen foul of measurement scandals, because of the size of the court and line-call controversies – will 2009 prove to be any different, as Novak Đoković and Maria Sharapova look to defend their crowns? Australian Open 2009 19.01>01.02.09 Melbourne Park Melbourne, Australia T. +61 2 8736 2711 www.australianopen.com

REV COUNTERS

To much rejoicing, the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix was announced as far back as 2007 in the Abu Dhabi F1 Festival – the first time that such an event will be held in this Gulf state. As for the sport itself, split-second decisions on the part of drivers and technicians will make all the difference between success and failure, even life and death. The track is set to feature a Monaco-style harbour front and it will also include a section similar to the Eau Rouge corner of the Spa-Francorchamps circuit. Top speed? Around 320 km/h. Hardly bears thinking about, does it? 2009 Formula 1 Ethiad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix 31.01.09 (tbc) Yas Island, Abu Dhabi United Arab Emirates www.abudhabigp.com

CANINE CALIBRE

The yardstick by which all canine excellence is measured – Crufts Dog Show – returns to The NEC in Birmingham, UK. Officially recognised by the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s largest dog show, this year’s event saw around 23,000 dogs entered, with 160,000 human companions also enjoying the show! Best in Show last time was taken by Giant Schnauzer CH Jafrak Phillipe Olivier owned by Mr and Mrs K Cullen – who’ll be top dog in 2009? Crufts 2009 06>09.03.09 National Exhibition Centre (NEC) 173 High Street Birmingham, UK T. +44 (0) 871 945 6000 www.crufts.org.uk

A MEASURE OF TIME

A place where time is not only the measurement of past events, but the very core of existence and a source of outstanding beauty, Baselworld is the leading event for the watch and jewellery industry. A unique opportunity for around 2,200 exhibitors – specialists in watches, jewellery, precious gems and related brands – to showcase their latest products. Many world-famous names in the watch and jewellery industry choose to show their products exclusively at Baselworld – it’s your only chance for a preview of their very latest creations. Let time stand still… Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show 2009 26.03.>02.04.09 Baselworld Village Binningerstrasse 14, Basel Switzerland T. +41 (0) 58 206 25 25 www.baselworld.com

Bespoken

J.D.

AGENDA

MEASURED MOMENTS

Bespoken offers a worldwide selection of cultural, sporting and fashion events. Remember, measuring up is key…

TASTE TEST

HIGH NOTES

Inside La Scala

Bespoken

GOLF TO A TEE

MARQUES OF A MAN

TRAIN OF THOUGHT

FALLING STARS

Fashion week in Rio de Janeiro - January 2009

SPOT THE BALLS

REV COUNTERS

CANINE CALIBRE

A MEASURE OF TIME

Bespoken

J.D.

Somewhere in Asia

Ginza: Where elegance comes naturally Bespoken presents a profile of one of Japan’s most respected tailors.

‘Our many connoisseur customers appreciated the value of Scabal fabrics’

In my view, ‘international suits’ are the most appropriate for Japanese men

BIG IN JAPAN

‘EIKOKU’

Eikokuya’s client list included Japan’s leading lights – key figures in politics and economics, successful physicians and lawyers – men of integrity who understood quality. What was needed were not obtrusive colours or patterns, but quality fabrics that subtly enhanced the wearer’s poise and style – and Scabal fabrics fitted the bill perfectly, as they have for the past 40 years.

In the 1960s, Japan was enjoying rapid economic growth. Those wearing business suits were the new ‘whitecollar middle class’ and were making a breakthrough in Japan’s social structure. With the emergence of salaried employees, who were required to wear suits for work, reasonably priced ready-to-wear garments flooded the market, a contrast to refined suits with sartorial finish. Under these circumstances, luxury tailored suits with fancy colours and patterns such as bold stripe or traditional check gained popularity at the higher end of the market.

In Naples, there was once a tailor’s shop called ‘London House’ that was founded in 1931, which is said to have been the creator of the ‘Neapolitan’ style – kings, aristocrats, traders, entrepreneurs and successful actors sought out this tailor to have their suits custom-made.

Kobayashi adds: “Despite the trend, Scabal fabrics looked ordinary from a distance. Yet upon closer inspection, the colours and designs were in fact selected with great care and of course, the ‘ feel’

Likewise, the word ‘Eikoku’, which is what Great Britain is called in Japanese, form’s part of Eikokuya’s brand name. The business was founded in Ginza, 1940, and offered

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the best-quality gentlemen’s suits of the time. Some 60 years later, the brand's reputation remains unchanged: “The UK, Italy and France – each has its own style,” says Kobayashi. “In my view, ‘international suits’ are the most appropriate for Japanese men. It is the style that makes the wearer look most attractive. Many of our customers choose our suits for special occasions.” The brand has 17 stores across Japan – more than any other high-end tailor. Eikokuya also has a strong commitment to its clients — as soon as the fine fabrics are delivered, sales-staff begin to target the customers whom they believe the fabrics would match best – a different approach from other tailors, who have fabrics available in-store and simply wait for the customers to arrive. And then there’s the personal touch, as Kobayashi explains: “We have a store manager in every outlet, each chosen for their attractive, distinguished personality. In fact, many customers visit the stores simply to enjoy a conversation with our managers.”

“My first impression was that the fabrics were very expensive, despite their sober appearance.” It was amazing that the finest-quality suits using Scabal fabrics were priced 500,000 ¥ in Japan at a time when university graduates earned an average first year postgraduate salary of 30,000 ¥ – the suits in question were ranked at the highest end of Eikokuya’s price range.

was unparalleled – our many connoisseur customers appreciated the value of Scabal fabrics.” The Japanese who enjoyed wearing fine custom-tailored garments in those days were probably not aware of Beau Brummell’s famous saying: “You shouldn’t make yourself conspicuous by impeccable appearance.” Some preferred gaudy colours and patterns, and the style was accepted by fashion freaks. Around a hundred years after the collapse of their feudal society and aristocratic culture, the Japanese were becoming a society of people who all had ‘middle class’ aspirations, hence the fashion revolution.

Inside one of Ginza's shops

OLD AND NEW

It was in 1965 when I was still a university student and worked part-time for my father’s store that Scabal fabrics were first introduced to Japan,” recalls Akira Kobayashi, the second-generation president and owner of Eikokuya, one of Japan’s most prestigious tailors.

Eikokuya President Akira Kobayashi

Ginza is an area in which visitors enjoy sophisticated shopping and entertainment. As the world’s prestigious brands have opened flagship stores, Ginza has grown into an international fashion Mecca, with Japanese stores standing side by side with overseas luxury brands. Ginza welcomes long-time customers, but never turns away ‘first-timers’ – a different approach from Kyoto, for example, where there are many exclusive long-established stores and where first-time customers are not always made to feel so welcome.

Ginza: Japan's upmarket retail and entertainment district

Says Kobayashi: “Tomorrow, we will have an event that’s called Ginza Miyukidori Flower Carpet, where we, along with the overseas brands, scatter tulip petals on the streets in the morning.” Kobayashi is enthusiastic about regional development – he adds that the stores in Ginza, both Japanese and foreign, whether they are restaurants or galleries, are willing to work together to promote the area. “Recently, certain successful newer brands from Shibuya and Shinjuku opened their stores in Ginza. I have noticed that the

customers at these new stores often have a dignified elegance. It’s probably ‘Ginza magic’, but everyone who visits here seems naturally to keep a straight back and maintain a graceful poise.” Eikokuya 英国屋 2-7-18 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo / Japan T. 03-3564-2941 www.eikokuya.co.jp

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Somewhere in Asia

Ginza: Where elegance comes naturally Bespoken presents a profile of one of Japan’s most respected tailors.

‘Our many connoisseur customers appreciated the value of Scabal fabrics’

In my view, ‘international suits’ are the most appropriate for Japanese men

BIG IN JAPAN

‘EIKOKU’

Likewise, the word ‘Eikoku’, which is what Great Britain is called in Japanese, form’s part of Eikokuya’s brand name. The business was founded in Ginza, 1940, and offered

Bespoken

Inside one of Ginza's shops

OLD AND NEW

Eikokuya President Akira Kobayashi

Ginza: Japan's upmarket retail and entertainment district

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com Bespoken

Medjumbe Island

Matemo beach

Terra Incognita

Incredible Mozambique Mozambique: a country that is still relatively undiscovered compared with its neighbours, but yet offers a unique life experience.

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When life comes down to daily major choices such as whether to go for yet another swim in the beautiful, warm clear blue sea, taking a stroll along a deserted beach before quenching your thirst with a locally grown fresh fruit

cocktail or whether to dine on fresh crab or fish that night for dinner, it could be said that a certain ‘pure pleasure’ point had been reached. And, with some 2,400 kilometers of coastline, including some of the most beautiful, sandy, unexplored

palm-fringed beaches in the whole African continent, Mozambique offers so much more than you can imagine.

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Medjumbe Island

Matemo beach

Terra Incognita

Incredible Mozambique Mozambique: a country that is still relatively undiscovered compared with its neighbours, but yet offers a unique life experience.

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palm-fringed beaches in the whole African continent, Mozambique offers so much more than you can imagine.

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For a first-time visitor, it can all seem chaotic but, without doubt, it is this vibrancy that gives the place its identity

Historical view

The country lies on the western coast of southern Africa, enjoying the warm waters of the Indian ocean with South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mali and Tanzania as its neighbours. Originally the home of the African Bantu people, its colonialisation by Portugal in the mid20th century was a mayor influence in terms of economic and social history. Ruled by the Portuguese for more than 400 years – explorer Vasco de Gama arrived in 1497 – Mozambique achieved its independence in 1975 after a tenyear war against its colonial owners. However, in its quest to establish itself as a country in its own right after years of rule, it suffered terribly in one of the most violent civil wars in African history. Lasting around 16 years, the fighting finally ended in 1992 and since then peace has allowed the country to rebuild itself.

Maputo: The place to be

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The capital often serves as a starting point, although it warrants a few nights stay in itself to allow the visitor to experience Mozambique for the first time. For those who wish to do so in style, there is only one place to stay – The Polana Hotel. Providing all that the discerning visitor could want from a quality establishment, this is an excellent base from which to explore the city. Mozambique offers great seafood; perhaps its most famous (and certainly its largest) export product is prawns. Beware, though; if you are not a fan of spicy food, go for the milder dishes. The prawns can be enormous, bigger than most people will ever see in their local restaurants and, because they are freshly caught, the flavour is unbeatable. Using Maputo as a starting point to visit Mozambique can be ideal for many but, for those wishing to travel extensively throughout the country, a 4x4 is essential, as is either knowledge of this type of trek or an experienced guide or tour company to escort you. It is a big country and roads are often muddy tracks, especially in the wet season and, while very safe overall, be advised that there are areas,

predominantly in the central part of the country, where landmines were laid during the war and have not yet been cleared.

Dreamy archipelagos

The real treasures of Mozambique can be found in the archipelagos that lie off the coast towards it northern border with Tanzania. Here, the islands provide a stunning combination of unspoilt beauty and accessibility for the traveller who wants more than just squeaky-clean hotel rooms. The Quirimbas Archipelago is made up of approximately 32 islands, with all but a few uninhabited. The islands, which form part of the Quirimbas National Park and are being considered for World Heritage Site status, stretch along 100 kilometres of coastline and contain some of the richest coral reefs in the world in terms of marine life. The park was set up to protect the area’s wildlife as well as the local people’s way of life and, today, it’s a truly exceptional area that has never been developed and continues to keep its distance from mass tourism. The area’s wealth of marine wildlife provides a great diving experience. All the islands, which are no more than a few metres above sea-level, have abundant species to encounter, from stingrays,

The country’s capital, Maputo, lies to the south and is a busy, developing port. Investment, particularly from South Africa, has brought prosperity and, while the visitor may be amazed at the beautiful tree-lined avenues dominated by impressive colonial-style houses, it is nevertheless a city of contrasts. As with many cities in Africa, people have come from the countryside where life can be

difficult to find a living so, for a firsttime visitor, it can all seem chaotic but, without doubt, it is this vibrancy that gives the place its identity.

Mozambique local life Bespoken

For a first-time visitor, it can all seem chaotic but, without doubt, it is this vibrancy that gives the place its identity

Historical view

Maputo: The place to be

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predominantly in the central part of the country, where landmines were laid during the war and have not yet been cleared.

Dreamy archipelagos

difficult to find a living so, for a firsttime visitor, it can all seem chaotic but, without doubt, it is this vibrancy that gives the place its identity.

Mozambique local life Bespoken

The abundance of natural flora and fauna on the island, in addition to its marine life, make the place special

Customised trip

For those who want true escapism, go to Medjumbe private island. Only one kilometre long and 500 metres wide, it offers a limited number of guests seclusion from the world, palmfringed beaches of white sand and, as far as the eye can see, clear blue water. Accommodation comes in the form of thatched-roofed beach chalets (13 in total), air-conditioning for those who need it and a plunge pool to take away the heat of the day. It’s a place where you can be as active or as lazy as you want, completely free from pressure. Boat fishing is available and, if going in search of sailfish or yellow fin tuna is your thing, it’s available right outside your chalet door. However, in keeping with the neeed to keep the area protected and properly maintained, the island operates a ‘tag and release’ scheme in conjunction with the Oceanographic Research Institute. Medjumbe is also aiming to eradicate long-line fishing by 64

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This ethos is absolutely crucial to Medjumbe and other places in the archipelago, and is one of the many reasons why you should visit. The abundance of natural flora and fauna on the island, in addition to its marine life, make the place special. For those with families who still want to experience the adventure, suitable accommodation can be found on Matemo island.

Kimani-speaking residents, around 2,000 in number, are involved with the lodge in a joint venture to provide a community school and there are also plans to set up a local health centre. There is ample opportunity to visit the communities and indeed the lodge actively encourages it, as purchasing local crafts is an obvious way of contributing to the islanders’ economy.

Much larger than Medjumbe (eight by three kilometres) Matemo is renowned for its fine Maluane cloth – silk and cotton dyed with local indigo. Again, the visitor will be met by white beaches, palm and mangrove trees, clear blue water and accommodation that has been created using as many local materials as possible to ensure that the buildings blend in with the natural surroundings.

A nearby island, Ibo, can be visited and also very much worth a trip – a place with a history primarily shaped by the Portuguese and Arab slave trades. A prosperous island some 500 years ago, local silversmith craftsmen now sell bracelets and pendants primarily sourced from old coins trawled from the numerous shipwrecks that lie around the archipelago.

As with Medjumbe, there has been a concerted effort to limit the impact on the local environment and, while one could argue that just allowing holidaymakers has affected the balance, work with the local community and the propagation of 12,000 indigenous plants and trees around the lodge has been greatly appreciated and in keeping with the archipelagos’ balance and sustainability.

The Quirimbas have enormous cultural and historical value, being a combination of Arabian, Portuguese and African cultures. Coupled with a unique natural environment that allows any visitor to marvel at the surroundings and diversity, it is a place that offers much for discerning tourists.

Your cosy chalet

The property has around 24 palmthatched chalets, air-conditioning for those who need it as well as more traditional attractions such as swimming pools and simple spa treatments. Again, water activities including diving, sailing,

Country: Mozambique Capital: Maputo Population: Around 20 million Climate: Tropical/sub tropical Language: Portuguese (official), local dialects, English in hotels/lodges Religion: Christian/Muslim Currency: Metical ($US accepted in hotels/lodges) Credit cards: Hotels/lodges, some restaurants Travel visas: Required

fishing, snorkelling, cayaking are right there for you, and guests can take advantage of activities centres.

The good news is that, for the moment and hopefully for the future, it’s all relatively undiscovered but, for people who do want to experience a mix of Africa, protected natural wilderness and unspoilt beauty and are prepared to make the extra effort to get there, it is definitely time to go. S.P.

In short, for snorkelling, sailing, diving, fishing or just appreciating natural surroundings, it doesn’t come much better than this, combined with accommodation that’s kept to a simple balance between quality and understatement.

foreign trawlers in order to protect its natural wildlife.

GETTING THERE Quirimbas Archipeligo International flights to Johannesburg, South Africa or Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Johannesburg – Pemba Airline: SA Airlink Frequency: Twice per week Duration: Three hours 40 minutes Dar es Salaam – Pemba Airline: CFA Air Charters Frequency: Twice per week Duration: 1 hour 50 minutes Service due to launch in May 2008 Maputo – Pemba Airline: LAM Frequency: Daily Duration: Five hours (includes two stops) Pemba – Matemo (30 minutes) Medjumbe (45 minutes) Airline: RANI Aviation Frequency: In conjunction with guests arrival arranged through lodge

barracuda, dolphins, grouper, kingfish, angelfish and triggerfish to moray eels. It is also a prime breeding and feeding site for leatherback, loggerhead and green turtles and, for a lucky few, it is a unique experience to see laying their eggs on shore. Humpback whales also pass by between August and December.

It could be yours

PULSE AFRICA T. South Africa +27 (0)11 325 2290 London +44 (0)208 9955 909 USA +1 (0)203 853 2805 www.pulseafrica.com Bespoken

The abundance of natural flora and fauna on the island, in addition to its marine life, make the place special

Customised trip

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Your cosy chalet

fishing, snorkelling, cayaking are right there for you, and guests can take advantage of activities centres.

foreign trawlers in order to protect its natural wildlife.

It could be yours

PULSE AFRICA T. South Africa +27 (0)11 325 2290 London +44 (0)208 9955 909 USA +1 (0)203 853 2805 www.pulseafrica.com Bespoken

Dr. Thomas Rusche, CEO and owner of SØR Rusche GmbH

Scabal across the world

The Ø gene is key

SØR stores are a leading light in Germany’s male premium clothing sector. Thomas Knoerich, Marketing & PR Manager, reveals the secrets of the brand's success.

Bespoken: So, SØR goes back a long way? Thomas Knoerich: The family company goes back to 1897 when Heinrich Rusche started his textile trade in a horse carriage. His great-great grandson Dr. Thomas Rusche (46) is the fourth generation in a straight line to lead the company. Today SØR has established itself in all main German cities. Recently we expanded to destinations where our clients like to go on holiday: GarmischPartenkirchen, Norderney, Timmendorfer Strand, Rottach-Egern and Sylt. How would you describe your market position? SØR is Germany’s leading men’s store in the premium sector. Our chain has more than 40 stores all over the country; at the same time, we feel at home worldwide. Proof? We offer all the major global premium brands, like Brioni, van Laack and, of course, Scabal.

What makes SØR’s vision so special? SØR is 25 percent culture, 25 percent soul, 25 percent luxury and 25 percent style. We invite our clients to be seduced by the fascinating culture of our ready-made clothing. For this we use the metaphor of the ‘clothing gene’, a symbol of our second skin. This gene makes people appreciate the beauty of noble fabrics and refined cuts. The Ø is the key to both SØR’s genetic code and that of its clients. The SØR shop in Ulm

‘At SoR, every day is Tailor’s Day. This year it will be 40 years since SoR and Scabal started working together: we have something to celebrate!’

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What inspires SØR more than anything else? We talk about culture as our inspiration and in the broadest sense of the word. What kind of clients like to visit SØR-stores? Our customers have one thing in common: they appreciate luxury It’s an attitude we all share. They can be doctors or businessmen, but they all have this characteristic in common.

Why is made-to-measure important to SØR? We like our clients to gradually acclimatize to the concept of made-to-measure. This is how we position ourselves on the market. It is how we communicate who we are. We like new clients to try out and order a made-to-measure shirt while buying the rest of their wardrobe in ready-made brands. When they are happy with the experience, they will return for a second shirt, then they will try a first made-tomeasure suit from Scabal’s fabrics and finally they will become a regular made-to-measure customer. How do you organise your famous ‘Madeto-Measure Tailor's Days’? Twice a year, we arrange events with Scabal in around 15 of our stores, writing to those clients we know will be interested. Since contact between tailors and clients is by appointment only, they take their time to achieve a truly personalized interaction. Each day, they will see between five and ten clients. As an event it is a spectacular contribution to our mission statement: At SØR, every day is Tailor’s Day. SØR is opening women’s stores too? Many of the brands in our men stores have a women’s line. We responded to a growing demand from female customers with SØR Woman. Female clients like to come in for good sports cloth and from there they move on. What are your projects for SØR in 2009? Our main goal is further homogeneous expansion. Improving existing shops is always an important objective as is the extension of the new SØR Woman line. We will further develop tailored clothing and we will possibly extend our business activity to the whole German-speaking European area. How would you describe the relationship between SØR and Scabal? This year it will be 40 years since SØR and Scabal started working together: we have

something to celebrate! I personally love working at SØR because of the human way of doing business, something that’s deeply rooted in our genes. It is also how the Rusche and the Thissen family relate: a deep friendship. Today the generation of Thomas Russche and Gregor Thissen continues to work together on a base of mutual respect, personal friendship and a shared appreciation of beautiful products. With Scabal we position the SØR-stores as the absolute top for beautiful garments that will dress German men – and women – always better. J.O.

SØR: figures and facts

1875: Heinrich Rusche born in Oelde, Westphalia 1911: First shop opened by Rusche in Oelde 1956: Doris and Egon Rusche develop the classic SØR concept. 1956: 17th May: First SØR Herrenausstatter Store opened by Egon Rusche in Bielefeld Around 220: The number of employees in 2008 Around 60,000: The number of regular customers in 2008 Around 250,000: The number of items sold annually in the SØR stores 40: The number of years that SØR and Scabal have worked together More than 40: The number of stores SØR has opened 30: The number of locations in which SØR has opened stores

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

Bespoken

Dr. Thomas Rusche, CEO and owner of SØR Rusche GmbH

Scabal across the world

The Ø gene is key

SØR stores are a leading light in Germany’s male premium clothing sector. Thomas Knoerich, Marketing & PR Manager, reveals the secrets of the brand's success.

‘At SoR, every day is Tailor’s Day. This year it will be 40 years since SoR and Scabal started working together: we have something to celebrate!’

Bespoken

SØR: figures and facts

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

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PORTRAIT

MICHAEL OWEN: THE TRAINING GAME

Named as England’s richest footballer at the beginning of May, Michael Owen is a ‘beautiful game’ success story. But the Newcastle United captain and England striker has made another passion pay, namely his love of training winners, with his successful Manor House Stables venture.

‘Even though we do breed some of our own horses, the thrill of training them became a big attraction’

or 28-year-old fatherof-three Michael Owen (who’s worth £41 million, according to the Sunday Times Rich List), the Manor House Stables dream began in 1998 when he bought his first horse (Etienne Lady, named after St Etienne in France, where he scored his first World Cup goal) and later met horse trainer Nicky Vaughan, through Vaughan’s brother-in-law, former England international David Platt.

BORN TO RUN At the time, Nicky was as an assistant to leading flat trainer John Gosden, who trained Etienne Lady – the pair hit it off, and from there, Michael’s passion for ‘The Sport of Kings’ grew. Race forward ten years - Manor House Stables opened in March 2007, with around 30 racehorses, some of them Owen’s, but with a growing client list. Vaughan is now the stable’s trainer, after Michael decided that time was right to offer him the job – “I’m convinced he has what it takes to be successful in his new role,” the footballer declared.

Michael Owen, suited for success at Ascot

Owen: Footballer and horse trainer

‘For me to play football as a job is fantastic, as well as being able to pursue my passion for horses’

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Manor House Stables, located in the heart of the beautiful Cheshire countryside, are leaders in their field. Ambitious plans are already in place to add three Americanstyle barns, state-of-the-art horse heartmonitoring systems plus an equine spa and swimming pool that allows horses to benefit from swimming's widely acknowledged stamina, muscle tone and cardiovascular benefits. ‘EVERY STEP OF THE WAY’ The ambition to make the move from horse-ownership to training began between Michael and his wife Louise, whom he met at primary school in 1984. “My wife and I always thought we would have some business interest in horses, but the breeding side was our original plan,” Michael explains on Manor House’s website. “Even though we do breed some of our own horses, the thrill of training them became a big attraction. I see it as like a football supporter following their team; sometimes it’s not enough to just sit and watch

on a Saturday. They want to know the food the players eat, the cars they drive. That’s me, from the moment a horse is born to the day it races and beyond, I want to be involved every step of the way.” The former Liverpool and Real Madrid star still has his priorities in order, however: “My job is to play football, that’s what I focus my attention on. Until I retire, this business will take a back seat to my football, but that doesn’t stop me from spending all of my spare time at the yard!” Such a single-minded approach from one so young is surprising, but it’s doubtless the characteristic that has made Michael muchsought after, first on the field and now on the track. His race to succeed continues... INTERVIEW Bespoken: Michael, is it your ambition to provide your clients with ‘made to measure’ racehorses?

Does concern over a bad run of form that your horses may be having ever affect your football? No, not at all. The two things are kept completely separate. In what other ways, apart from the number of winners, do you measure the results of your work? Progress. We watch the progress of all the horses to measure their improvement. Do you believe that Manor House Stables will take up all your time when your football days are finished? They will take up a lot of my time, but the family and my other hobby of playing golf will also keep me busy! How do you define the ‘made to measure’ man?

Michael Owen: Yes, in a way. It is nice when the ‘personality’ of the horse in some ways matches that of its owners. However, what I want most is to provide winners.

To have a career that is tailor-made to the attributes of the individual. For me to play football as a job is fantastic as well as being able to pursue my passion for horses.

Considering that horseracing puts such an emphasis on winning and losing, do you find that your stress levels are similar when you’re watching a race involving one of your stable’s horses as when you’re playing football?

What’s your greatest horse-training ambition?

I find it both stressful and enjoyable. It is a different kind of stress from playing, because I am not out there, able to influence the outcome, but the adrenaline still flows. Along similar lines, do you thrive on anything apart from stress and pressure? I am very competitive and I thrive on winning! You’ve achieved so much, so young. Does this ever lead to boredom? No, especially not now with the stables, and I also have three young children, so life is never boring.

It would be to win one of the major classics possibly the Derby. If your destiny could be ‘made-tomeasure’, what would it be? So far my career in football has been fantastic, but I would like to win more silverware and keep injury free. J.D. Manor House Stables Hampton Malpas Cheshire, SY14 8AB UK T. +44 (0)1948 820 485 www.manorhousestables.com

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PORTRAIT

MICHAEL OWEN: THE TRAINING GAME

‘Even though we do breed some of our own horses, the thrill of training them became a big attraction’

Michael Owen, suited for success at Ascot

Owen: Footballer and horse trainer

‘For me to play football as a job is fantastic, as well as being able to pursue my passion for horses’

Bespoken

Michael Owen: Yes, in a way. It is nice when the ‘personality’ of the horse in some ways matches that of its owners. However, what I want most is to provide winners.

To have a career that is tailor-made to the attributes of the individual. For me to play football as a job is fantastic as well as being able to pursue my passion for horses.

What’s your greatest horse-training ambition?

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THIS IS SCABAL

Merino wool: A renaissance fibre

“Luxury is a necessity that begins where necessity ends,” said Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel in the early twentieth century. Today, designers across the globe are echoing the sentiments of the great Parisian designer, creating high-quality clothes that are simple, stylish and pure – a perfect climate for the renaissance of Australian Merino wool.

Australian Merino wool's first workers 70

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THIS IS SCABAL

Merino wool: A renaissance fibre

Australian Merino wool's first workers 70

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Today, Australian Merino leads the world in wool, thanks to 200 years of evolution and innovation

But Merino is not just flavour of the moment in couture and bespoke showrooms. This year, behind the scenes, world-class designers such as Donatella Versace, Sir Paul Smith and Karl Lagerfeld have also mentored young designers in the wool.

In love with Australian Merino Britain’s love affair with Australian wool stretches back to a far-less glamorous time in the early 1800s, when the wool trade between Australia and the UK was first established.

have improved the quality and softness of Australian Merino, enabling finer and softer quality fabrics to be created. Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), the Australian woolgrowers’ global research, development, innovation and marketing group, has been working with the world’s best spinners and weavers, using Merino’s natural properties to create textile innovations and techniques that combine Australian Merino with a vast range of noble fibres to produce fabrics of the highest quality. Hi-tech finishes may be applied before and after spinning to create garments that not only reject spills and stains, UV rays and bacteria, but also incorporate natural substances such as lapis lazuli in microscopic quantities (renowned for its aphrodisiac qualities), aloe vera and essential oils to relax or invigorate the garment’s wearer.

“This led to a much-greater emphasis on the need for quality cloths with softer, finer handles, and Australia and Europe began co-operation in research and development to achieve this. It was soon realised that only Australia could supply the fine Merino qualities in ever-increasing demand in premium menswear”, Ackroyd explains. AWI now works with the finest fabricmakers in the world to create better quality authentication between farm, weaver and wearer, at a time when consumers will not pay premium prices for luxury goods that can’t demonstrate provenance, lineage and sustainability.

To obtain a deeper-than-cashmere softness and provide superfine wool that works for light Spring and Autumn garments, woolgrowers carefully select flocks according to their quality.

Today, Australian Merino leads the world in wool, thanks to 200 years of evolution and innovation. Year after year, better farming techniques and breeding programmes Heritage wool shed Bespoken

Peter Ackroyd, from the British Wool Textile Export Corporation, explains how Australian Merino wool grew complementary to British bespoke traditions, but really came into its own in the ‘Swinging 60s’, when Savile Row enjoyed its own first renaissance since the war.

Working with wool on the farm

As the industrial revolution swept the world, English wools were deemed too coarse and ‘unfit for purpose’ by Savile Row tailors, who were seeking finerquality cloth to match their improved tailoring skills. The Napoleonic wars had choked supply of Spanish Merino to England, but the world’s love affair with Australian Merino was about to begin.

Bespoke on board

Bales of Merino wool being loaded

It’s doubtful that Samuel Marsden – the pioneer sheep farmer who returned to England from Australia with the first bale of Merino – could have realised how fully the man and the moment were about to meet when he stepped ashore in 1807.

These cutting-edge fabrics – made using natural, biodegradable and sustainable Australian Merino wool – are then supplied to master tailors, who use their skills to balance traditional tailoring techniques with emerging, innovative materials.

cabal has long understood Australian Merino’s inherent beauty and quality – selective breeding and skilled farming techniques have enabled Australia to produce arguably the world’s most sophisticated natural yarn, a beautiful resource for Scabal’s fabric collection.

It was soon realised that only Australia could supply the fine Merino qualities in ever-increasing demand in premium menswear

The animals are guaranteed the highest possible pasture quality and are kept under constant supervision. To keep stress to a minimum, interference with the animals is reduced, and only the calmest sheepdogs are used, to avoid any unnecessary herding anxiety.

Keeping up with its eco-conscious clients, Merino farming is in keeping with the ‘Green Fashion’ ethos, which represents a growing segment of the global clothing market. Compared with most textile fibres, Australian Merino is natural and sustainable – more than 99 percent is produced in extensive grassland terrain. Thus, the Merino fibre is made from the simple combination of sunlight, water and grass — see Scabal’s new quality ‘Four Seasons’, made from eco-friendly Wool. This cloth is then given a finishing process, which incorporates state-ofthe-art silver ion technology that keeps the cloth hygienic and fresh. Australian Merino is a natural fibre that has evolved over millions of years to create the most effective all-weather protection known to man. No man-made fibre comes close to duplicating Merino’s naturally occurring qualities. Every year, the fleece on sheep’s’ backs can be removed without harming the animal and, in addition to the natural durability, extensibility and elasticity of the Merino fibre, the wool is also biodegradable. Australian growers are constantly researching better practice to protect their sheep and the environment. Around 300-400 tonnes of clean certified organic wool are produced annually in Australia, and this volume is expected to grow rapidly, given the strong consumer interest . Recent organic wool sales have seen price premiums at 10-20 percent more than traditional wool.

Australian wool fibres

such as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves St Laurent. The tradition was recently revived when AWI joined with leaders of Italy’s fashion industry for the AWI Protégé Programme, which chose young talent to be mentored by the likes of Franca Sozzani, Donatella Versace, Sir Paul Smith and Karl Lagerfeld and to create a collection of garments using Australian Merino wool. “It is a great honour to have our Merino wool aligned to the world’s most prestigious fashion designers. Although the industry and farmers have seen some hardships in recent times, it is rewarding to see the success of this project,” said Craig Welsh, CEO, AWI. J.D.

New generation has designs on Merino

Fifty years ago, The Woolmark Company (TWC), which recently merged with AWI, recognised and encouraged young, talented designers

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com Bespoken

Today, Australian Merino leads the world in wool, thanks to 200 years of evolution and innovation

To obtain a deeper-than-cashmere softness and provide superfine wool that works for light Spring and Autumn garments, woolgrowers carefully select flocks according to their quality.

Today, Australian Merino leads the world in wool, thanks to 200 years of evolution and innovation. Year after year, better farming techniques and breeding programmes Heritage wool shed Bespoken

Working with wool on the farm

Bespoke on board

Bales of Merino wool being loaded

It was soon realised that only Australia could supply the fine Merino qualities in ever-increasing demand in premium menswear

Australian wool fibres

New generation has designs on Merino

Fifty years ago, The Woolmark Company (TWC), which recently merged with AWI, recognised and encouraged young, talented designers

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com Bespoken

Designer in Vogue

Gunhyo Kim: A homage to tailors

‘I am fascinated by the beauty of ‘a gentleman’. In my opinion, a man is made beautiful by his attitude, not his physique’

Little more than 26 years old, South Korean designer Gunhyo Kim has a dazzling future. For Bespoken, Dries Van Noten’s first assistant explains his vision of male haute couture – his passion and the link that has bound him to Scabal since his career began.

Gunhyo Kim’s Autumn-Winter 2008-2009 collection dedicated to the Jewish community: ‘Talmud’

meet the young designer in Nationalestraat, just a few steps away from the Yohji Yamamoto boutique and exactly opposite the worldrenowned Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. A great Asian innovator, a recognized European school and a young designer heading for great success – three ingredients for a rendezvous to remember! After only a few minutes conversation, it’s obvious that this is indeed a calm young man who has his head screwed on, who speaks with humility concerning his own rapid progress – a pleasure to talk to.

A solid base

Before coming to Belgium, Kim worked in fashion in big cities such as London, Paris and New York, before passing his entrance examinations at Antwerp: “I already had experience in the visual arts and I wanted to carry on this way, not merely restricting myself to fashion. I knew that the Antwerp Academy was the institution that corresponded best to my ambitions.” But the path proved difficult at first for the young artist, who was initially refused entry to Antwerp after passing his entry examination. So, it was to the Netherlands that he first made his way: “I lived in Arnhem – a charming city, but too small! Coming from Seoul, it was difficult for me to adapt to such an atmosphere. I survived for one year by attending the Hogeschool voor de Kunsten! My objective was very clear: to make a success of my first year in Holland then to go to Antwerp, with its exciting cultural life and best fashion school in the world.” A graduate since June 2007, Kim has many happy memories of his studies, and is very grateful for the time he spent in Antwerp. His services were quickly demanded by fashion luminaries such as Tommy Hilfiger, Viktor & Rolf and Dries 74

Bespoken

Van Noten, for whom Kim has worked intensively since the end of his studies.

An authentic style

“I am fascinated by the beauty of ‘a gentleman’. In my opinion, a man is made beautiful by his attitude, not his physique. Clothing, its cut and their materials confer a natural elegance and character on a man.” This, for Kim, is at the heart of his collections: “The choice of fabrics and the quality of their cut form two essential aspects of my work – for this reason I attach great importance to the tailor’s art, the English tradition of bespoke cloth, beautiful Italian tailoring. I decided to name my range ‘It Galantuomo’, The Gentleman, in homage to the Italian tradition.” He adds: “The world of tailoring has always fascinated me, because it calls for great technical training blended with profound aesthetic understanding.” In his collections, the designer always tries to pay homage to the tailor, using beautiful fabrics and working with craftsmen who strive for perfection with traditional techniques. “My goal is to mix the perfection of the tailor’s work with the ‘twist’ of my own personality, which corresponds to the modern man’s state of mind, a man who is self-confident, but relaxed.” When asked about his own sources of inspiration, Kim acknowledges: “I was very much influenced by Galenteo, an ancestral work, and a sort of Gentleman’s Bible, not normally available to the general public, which gives essential advice on how to be a gentleman. Not just sartorial instruction, but also sections concerning attitude and manners. I was also inspired by what I learned at school, the work that I did with Dries Van Noten and also contemporary trends publicised by the media.”

quality of fabrics and the variety available are just two of Scabal’s strengths. I use mainly exceptional fabrics such as ‘Gold Treasure’ and ‘Diamond Chip’. By doing this, I’m blending jewellery and cloth into one. The concept of ‘clothing-jewellery’, made using gold and diamond-dust thread and with 22 carat-gold buttons is an innovation that I developed. It enables me to breath new life into clothing and add another layer of quality.” Interesting to learn that the designer takes as a starting point famous characters such as ‘Inspector Gadget’ (Autumn-Winter 07-08), to which he devoted an entire collection, or Orthodox Jew (Autumn-Winter 08-09), of which there are many in Antwerp, easily recognized by their beards and traditional clothes. “With fabrics adorned with gold and diamonds, what could be more appropriate than a collection based on the Jewish religion, particularly when one remembers that the Jewish are the finest diamond craftsmen in the world.” Scabal Consultant Patrick De Muynck is also a designer and professor at Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts. For Bespoken, he recalls some favourite memories of this young designer: “I treasure great souvenirs of Gunhyo’s work as a student. From where he discovered the secrets of Menswear tailoring, doing research

Scabal addict

“During my studies, I was lucky enough to have the chance to work with Scabal. I used their fabrics to create my end-of-year collections. Since then, I have remained faithful to the brand, which I would not abandon for anything in the world! The

Gunhyo Kim: ‘A young man with his head screwed on’ Bespoken

Designer in Vogue

Gunhyo Kim: A homage to tailors

‘I am fascinated by the beauty of ‘a gentleman’. In my opinion, a man is made beautiful by his attitude, not his physique’

Gunhyo Kim’s Autumn-Winter 2008-2009 collection dedicated to the Jewish community: ‘Talmud’

A solid base

Bespoken

Van Noten, for whom Kim has worked intensively since the end of his studies.

An authentic style

Scabal addict

Gunhyo Kim: ‘A young man with his head screwed on’ Bespoken

‘The quality of fabrics and the variety available are just two of Scabal’s strengths. I mainly use exceptional fabrics such as ‘Gold Treasure’ and ‘Diamond Chip’. By doing this, I’m blending jewellery and cloth’

‘My brand belongs to all the people who contributed to my professional training and who still contribute: my teachers, my suppliers, my customers’

in museas, working with old tailors’ books and patterns, and finding inspiration in the timeless elegance and style of the British heritage and the history of costume. Deliberately using the Dandy as a Muze, he translated menswear in new and well proportioned garments that give the gentle attitude, styled with a tongue in cheek irony and mixed with ‘Belgian’ surrealism, an important source of inspiration in his work. Gunhyo is one of the few designers that can make tradition in menswear look cool and visionary. He recreates sartorial details like ticket pockets, lapels, and gives new unexpected cuts to jackets and trousers, always realized with deep respect for quality and tradition and with the guidance of the best craftsmen. It was in a natural way that this attitude brought Gunhyo to work with Scabal fabrics.

BESPOKE INTERVIEW

After graduating Gunhyo made a remarkable career start and an internationally acclaimed debut. It is beautiful to notice how quick his work has become mature. Gunhyo designs from clear and detailed drawings and sketches, with an eye for the sartorial detail, and the virtuosity to give a personal contemporary twist to designs, a true designer. No surprise that his debut collection was so much applauded, in Paris Barcelona, and in his home country South Korea, where he¹s cherished as a future designer star by media and Samsung. After his show at Barcelona Fashion Week Godfrey Deeny of Fashion Wire Daily claimed Gunhyo’s ‘Il Galantuomo’ collection to be the best menswear debut in many years. I truthfully hope Gunhyo will continue to find success and happiness in his career. He is one of the new generation designers that makes the future of fashion look bright.”

Because it is not just MY brand! It belongs to all the people who contributed to my professional training and who still contribute: my teachers, my suppliers, my customers. It is a brand representing the great names of fashion who helped me, of the great fashion groups from which I received support, such as Samsung awarding me the SFDF Award (Samsung Fashion Design Fund) in 2007 and the FFI (Flanders Fashion Institute) which allowed me to show my work during the February 2007 Paris Fashion Week.

Bespoken

Bespoken : You created your own brand – It Galantuomo – immediately after your studies. Why? Gunhyo Kim: Paradoxically, I did create my own label quickly, but I normally prefer to take my time! I am conscious that my range is very restricted concerning its target audience and that its price is not easily accessible. Consequently, in the near future, I would prefer that my collections are initially seen, rather than purchased. Working at Dries Van Noten enables me to learn, while also allowing me the time and money to develop my own clothing, so it’s a wonderful solution. Why have you not personalised your brand with your own name, as is customary?

Which of your own personality traits can be found in your range? I believe there are three: humour, which corresponds with my own story, quality, which is a value that I place ahead of all others in my work and, lastly, teamwork, because I am a very social-minded person.

You claim to have a deep respect for the tailor’s art, yet your collections are not made-to-measure. How do you explain that? My collections fall half-way between made-tomeasure and ready-to-wear. I design a very limited number of garments and, for each, there are a very restricted number available. It’s all about quality, cut and completion, which I feel brings me closer to the tailor’s ethic. Also, I take advice and assistance from renowned tailors to design my prototypes. After taking inspiration from Inspector Gadget and the Jewish community, you will be addressing the CocoChanel mythology in Summer 2009. What will be your inspirations? I base each of my collections on a ‘story’ in order to weave a bond between myself and the public. Each story corresponds to a particular type of man, so in that way one could say that my collections are made-to-measure. For 2008-2009, I want to blend two topics that are dear to me – CocoChanel and gravitas. I believe this will lead to some surprising creations – did you know, for example, that CocoChanel weighs down their jackets with steel in order to guarantee a perfect cut that’s always vertical? I find such details fabulous, and it’s this aspect of their craft that I wish to honour. Since the beginning of your career, Scabal has provided you fabrics. Which will you use for your new collection? I will continue to use my two favourite fabrics, which are the ‘Diamond Chip’ and ‘Gold Treasure’, but in a different way. Also, I will be using flax, silk and cotton.

According to you, the made-to-measure man is? There are many ‘made-to-measure’ men, but only one characteristic that’s present in all is the natural elegance that they have, thanks to their attitude. In this, clothing and accessories can convey the message that supports their style. It is at the heart of my work and it is my passion. Is your life made-to-measure? I am well organized, but I also need a lot of room for discoveries and surprises. It is true that the life that I’m leading at present suits me to perfection, and I would have never realised it without the people who surround me and help me and who helped me before, in Belgium and South Korea. J.S.

Gunhyo Kim Facts & Figures Date of Birth: 12th December 1981, South Korea Education: 1997-2000, Seoul Arts High School, Korea 2002-2003, Hogeschool voor de Kunsten Arnhem, Netherlands 2004-2007, Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, Belgium Discovers Scabal: 2005 Main dates: June 2007: Il Galantuomo launch June 2007: First Design Assistant for Dries Van Noten October 2006: Backstage assistant to Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, Victor & Rolf Awards: 2007: FFI Award 2007: Dries Van Noten Award 2007: Tommy Hilfiger Award 2006: Louis Award 2006: Weekend Knack Award 2006: Coccodrillo Award Bespoken

‘My brand belongs to all the people who contributed to my professional training and who still contribute: my teachers, my suppliers, my customers’

BESPOKE INTERVIEW

Bespoken

Spring – Summer 2009

DREAMWEAVER

‘Men want to look good but they also want to feel good. Demand for comfortable luxury is strong’

You have to plan a long way ahead in fabrics. Scabal’s design assistant, Nora Krämer, tells us what she’s got in store for Spring-Summer 2009.

INTERVIEW

Bespoken: When you already have more than 5,000 fabrics, ranging from classical to very fancy, why is Scabal creating more new lines? Nora Krämer: Our customers demand more and more variety. This is partly due to regional differences in culture and climate as Scabal expands internationally, but also because individual customers want more choice. They expect design exclusivity as well as made-to-measure customisation.

Our Spring-Summer 2009 Collection will retain most current lines, adding some fresh shades. But we have also created some exciting new designs, inspired by consumer trends. Which trends have guided you? Firstly, the continuing consumer trend towards higher quality. We’ve seen customers trade up in wool quality from Super 100’s to 130’s and 150’s over recent years, and our 2009 collection will meet this move head on. For example, our Jet Set Super 150’s collection will be expanded with 33 refined new designs: very light shades, discrete stripes and dark formal colours.

Secondly, men want to look good but they also want to feel good. Demand for comfortable luxury is strong. For instance, they want to be comfortable when they fly – and look great when they walk off the plane.

The new fabrics being created

Bespoken

This is why we have developed 50 new articles in our existing Business Class suiting line. This includes Travel Comfort: plain weave Super 100’s wool with a slight stretch, for extra comfort. We have also added a nano-tech finish, making the fabric water repellent for easier care and comfort. Champagne runs off it too!

The casual look is part of this desire for comfort. In the 2009 Scabal jacket collections we have a new concept, Acapulco, combining mixtures of noble fibres such as linen, silk and cotton with cashmeres. Pure luxury with a very casual look and feel. Demand for the smart and shiny look is growing too. It has always been popular in Japan but is now coming back in Europe. So we have developed a full mohair collection of 68 designs in four qualities, including a very sophisticated collection in dark, formal colours with a 60 percent kid mohair/40 percent wool mixture. Any other new collections? Yes indeed. We will add several other notable collections, including an exclusive new Lapis Lazuli line. For those who don’t know it, we grind down blue lapis lazuli stone and make a yarn with Super 150’s wool. It’s a very luxurious ‘blue on blue’ suiting fabric. We will expand our Range of Plains (no stripes, no checks – just lovely light summer shades for trousers, blazers and suits) with a beautiful new super-fine cavalry twill in the Royal Gabardines collection; and a hightwist Super 160’s yarn – called Power Twist – that’s very fine and crease resistant. Scabal has many new fabrics in the pipeline and I’m sure there are still other surprises to come for Spring-Summer 2009. Exclusive new designs, new colours, new ideas… all sharing the same uncompromising attention to detail and quality.

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

Scabal New Suiting Collections Spring-Summer 2009

IMPACT: Three qualities (Super 130’s, 60/40 wool/silk and Super 150’s) with a wide range of fancy, colourful designs. ETON Super 130’s: Around 80 new numbers for this Scabal bestseller, including light shades, various weaves, herringbone and classic stripes. JET SET Super150’s: An expanded collection, to meet the demand for higher quality — from light shades and refined stripes to dark formal colours. BUSINESS CLASS: A group of 50 new designs with fancy stripes and micro designs. Includes plain weave Super 100’s ‘Travel Comfort’ with a comfortable slight stretch. A nano-technology finish keeps the range water-repellent. MOHAIR: Full collection (68 designs) available in four qualities including wool/kid mohair, mohair/linen/silk and mohair/wool/cashmere mixtures. MONZA Super 100’s: Our regular firstprice collection for the world market. New for 2009 – check designs, beige and light grey shades. LIFE STYLE: 12 to 14 different qualities for the European prêt-a-porter market. LAPIS LAZULI: A new collection of 18 blue-on-blue designs woven with Super 150’s and ground lapis lazuli stone. RANGE OF PLAINS: Royal Gabardines for summer trousers, blazers and suits with Super150’s, Super 130’s and Super Fine cavalry twill. Plus new very fine and crease-resistant Power Twist Super 160’s with high-twist yarn.

Scabal New Jacket Collections:

100% WORSTED-SPUN CASHMERE: First-class quality 280g in 31 designs. ACAPULCO: A new Scabal concept – deluxe but casual, with mixtures of linen, cotton, silk and cashmere. TREND: Classical quality (Super 130’s or 50/50 silk/wool) with a collection of 29 designs from very light to dark. -N.B. Bespoken

Spring – Summer 2009

DREAMWEAVER

‘Men want to look good but they also want to feel good. Demand for comfortable luxury is strong’

You have to plan a long way ahead in fabrics. Scabal’s design assistant, Nora Krämer, tells us what she’s got in store for Spring-Summer 2009.

INTERVIEW

The new fabrics being created

Bespoken

This indicates a key article that is available in a variety of languages at www.bespoken.com

Scabal New Suiting Collections Spring-Summer 2009

Scabal New Jacket Collections:

Fashion Online

These days, sartorial trends often come to life online. So, Bespoken launches a new regular feature – a handy guide to the Internet fashion jungle, starting with one of the kings of web mode… Named by Time Magazine as ‘one of the 100 most important design influencers’, and in 35th position in AskMen.com’s ‘Leading 49 Men’ list citing ‘the most powerful men in fashion’, photographer Scott Schuman is the man of the moment – so what better time for a portrait and interview with this atypical photographer, famous for his shots of street life and the talent behind renowned fashion blog Thesartorialist.com?

Child of fashion

Thursday, 14 February, 2008 – Bold Layers th

Friday, 15 February, 2008 – That Hair, NYC th

Thursday, 28 February, 2008 – Louise at the Louvre, Paris th

Wednesday, 9th April, 2008 – Park Avenue, NYC

Monday, 17th September, 2007 – Thursday, 15 May, 2008 – Yellows & Greys, Park Avenue, NYC Not Half Plaid, Manhattan, NYC th

Born in Indianapolis in 1968, Scott Schuman quickly becomes an avid fan of male-fashion magazines. While still very young, Schuman gained insider knowledge of fashion trends, working at the popular 1980s chain store Chess King. After graduating with a degree in clothing merchandising with a minor in suit design from Indiana University, he moved to New York City, there to begin his haute couture career, where he worked in marketing for great names such as Peter Som, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino and Helmut Lang. After 15 years, he was named men’s fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman, the world-renowned luxury-goods department store in Midtown, Manhattan. In September 2005, he decided to spend more time with his daughter and exploring the streets of New York, armed with digital camera…thus, ‘The Sartorialist’ was born.

A recognised success

Tuesday, 22nd April, 2008 – From May GQ Magazine, Milano – Mr. Lapo Elkann 80

Bespoken

Monday, 21st April, 2008 – Vintage Lacoste, NYC

Tuesday, 20 th May, 2008 – Fifth Avenue, Manhattan, NYC

At first glance, the concept seems simple: to observe New York City streets and immortalise street life via subjects who convey extreme dress styles. But Schuman took it a step further, combining an artistic and social approach with powerful images that convey the fashion trends of today and tomorrow. Quickly, his photographs became world-famous, thanks to Schuman’s educated vision and choice of models. Whether it be children in front of a graffiti-daubed wall, workers on their building site or a pretty 30-year-old BCBG surveying Manhattan in her Chanel suit,

‘I studied tailoring and patterndrafting, so I like Made-to-measure because I’ve actually spent time doing that’

the result is the same – his work is adored by the public and fashion-watchers alike. More striking than magazine photographs, Schuman’s work is a source of inspiration worldwide for designers, buyers, journalists and models – so much so, that Style.com site, published by the Condé Nast group, which publishes prestigious titles such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ and Glamour, recently invited Schuman to cover fashion weeks across Europe. He also now writes a column for international men’s magazine GQ. INTERVIEW After a brief request via email, it was to this writer’s great delight that M. Schuman replied just two hours later – ‘Yes, I would be happy to do an interview’. If only everything in life was so easy… Bespoken: Who is The Sartorialist? Scott Schuman: The Sartorialist has always been me making the effort to photograph style in the way that I’ve seen designers searching for inspiration. There has long been a gulf between what gets sold in showrooms and what you can see real people (and really cool people) wearing in real life, hence the website. You do shoots with, on average, two women and two men per day. What are your selection criteria? I really don’t have specific selection criteria, I try and keep my mind open to what interests me while I’m out on the street. You know, if I’m trying to look for something, or being too picky, I might well miss something that’s more subtle, more abstract. It just has to be what catches my eye and makes me a little curious. How do you approach your younger models? Do they tend to be more reserved? No, in fact the most shy are older women, they turn me down far more than anybody else, they think maybe that they don’t look the way they used to, whatever. Young kids tend to have a lot more fun with it – they’re obviously more connected the Internet, so something like this is fun for them.

Your new career began on the streets of New York and now continues in Paris, London, Milan and even Stockholm. What importance do you attach to the styles on show in these metropolises? Well, I’m not really trying to report on what the styles are in those cities, for example the first time I went to Stockholm I had really no idea of what people dressed like there, and for me to be able to shoot in a consistent way, then I have to consistently shoot what interests me, so I don’t know if what I’ve put on the site from those cities is representational of what all the people there wear, but it’s certainly representational of some, the ones I found most interestinglooking. For example, I rarely put the specifics of what the subjects are wearing, the labels and so on, because that is not as interesting to me. You place great emphasis on the threepiece suit and the tailor’s art. What is your real attitude toward bespoke, madeto-measure suits? I love them! In school, I studied tailoring and pattern-drafting, so I like made-to-measure because I’ve actually spent time doing that. I hand-tailored my own suit when I was in college, it’s one of the things that I love, but I don’t know if I'd have the patience to do it for a living. It’s a very romantic life – at present, I’m out, interacting with a lot of people on a daily basis, but I can see the romance of sitting in a quiet environment all day, making a beautiful suit. I like a bespoke suit not so much for its prestige, but rather the craft of it, just like I love cooking. The craft of making something with your hands, and it’s similar with photographs. The photographs published on your blog are often frequently reproduced, particularly in prestigious magazines. So, is the Internet only useful to you as a publicity leverage tool? Not really. It’s been a great portfolio, a lot of people have looked at the work and seen its consistency, and want to try and capture some of that for their magazine. When a magazine calls me, I think they know that they’re getting both a photographer and an editor,

and that’s what’s unique to me, it’s not just about what I shoot but also about how I shoot. What has given you most satisfaction? When people send me beautiful emails, saying that looking at the site has really inspired them to find their own style, or be more open to what other people are doing and how that can affect them. What is your biggest regret? That I have to travel so much. I have a family, and when you have small children, you hate being away from them for any length of time. How do you picture your future? A continuation of the website – hopefully, this work will in the future be considered a good representation of what was considered high-style at this moment in time. The site’s growing, it has great interaction, and there’s also great potential in the future. In your opinion, Scabal represents… A level of excellence that we all strive to achieve! www.thesartorialist.com

J.S.

Scott Schuman: The Sartorialist

Scott Schuman: The Sartorialist at work Bespoken

Fashion Online

Child of fashion

Thursday, 14 February, 2008 – Bold Layers th

Friday, 15 February, 2008 – That Hair, NYC th

Thursday, 28 February, 2008 – Louise at the Louvre, Paris th

Wednesday, 9th April, 2008 – Park Avenue, NYC

Monday, 17th September, 2007 – Thursday, 15 May, 2008 – Yellows & Greys, Park Avenue, NYC Not Half Plaid, Manhattan, NYC th

A recognised success

Tuesday, 22nd April, 2008 – From May GQ Magazine, Milano – Mr. Lapo Elkann 80

Bespoken

Monday, 21st April, 2008 – Vintage Lacoste, NYC

Tuesday, 20 th May, 2008 – Fifth Avenue, Manhattan, NYC

‘I studied tailoring and patterndrafting, so I like Made-to-measure because I’ve actually spent time doing that’

J.S.

Scott Schuman: The Sartorialist

Scott Schuman: The Sartorialist at work Bespoken

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Scabal Spring – Summer 2009

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SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com +49-171-651 08 29 hans-peter.wichert@t-online.de

BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS – MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-63-36 0070 heefabric@hee.com.sg

TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr

HONG KONG +852-25-433 694 INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net

AMERICA ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar

JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan @scabal.co.jp

BRESIL +55-11-362 041 044 erlutecidos@sti.com.br

KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com

CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com

NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz

CHILI +56-2-638 14 72 c.rubio@holmes.cl

SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-140-375 26 16 faris@fmmercie.com

COLOMBIA +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@coldecon.net.co

SOUTH KOREA +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do

AFRICA SOUTH-AFRICA +27-21-794 67 27 jb.elder@intekom.co.za

viSit tHe SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At 12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London, pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com

VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com

or tHe SCABAL CornerS in Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, 61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, SCABALfrAnCe@WAnAdoo.fr

RUSSIA +7-495-660-7163 AG@GATEx.RU

ASIA & OCEANIA AZERBAIJAN +99-412-989 484 salamzade@rambler.ru

And KAdeWe, 1St fLoor, tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin, pHone +49-172-70 55 297, KAdeWe@SCABAL.de

SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 BRAUTEx@BRAUTEx.COm

AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain . .wain @bigpond.net.au

for otHer LoCAtionS, viSit tHe Store LoCAtor on WWW.SCABAL.Com

ROMANIA +40-21-403 35 40 SHOwROOm@CASAfRUmOASA.RO

this edition of Bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of :

Scabal Spring – Summer 2009

neXt issUe: FebrUary 09

bespoken

Admiral’s Cup name approved by the Royal Ocean Racing Club, London.

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