BESPOKEN 4

be spo ken Spring –­ Summer 2009 4th Edition

SPRING-SUMMER 2009 TRENDS

Tradition & Modernity Exploring Savile Row SEASIDE STORY Made-to-measure yachts Style on the beach Meeting Ben Ainslie Seafront restaurants Regatta round-up

A SCABAL i n it iati ve to promote A taIlor -made lifesty le

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THE HEART OF COGNAC

10-09-2008 13:

We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher.

The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors.

Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the contentof advertisements printed on its pages.

Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor: Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher: Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator: Kristel Geets Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design: BaseDESIGN Writers: Nigel Bishop Alan Cannon-Jones Kimberley Lovato Joséphine Overeem Stephen Papandropoulos Bernhard Roetzel James Sherwood Jérôme Stéfanski Harold Tillman Proofreading: ReadRight.be Photographers: David Hughes Stephen Papandropoulos by2 Photographers Filip Vanzieleghem Illustrator: Jean-Baptiste Biche Cover Credit: Abyla-Sxc.hu SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 Scabal.com

Editorial comment

LONG-TERM VALUES, LONG-TERM INSPIRATION

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e have chosen the nautical world as our primary theme for the fourth edition of Bespoken, because the colours and atmosphere of beaches, marinas and sailing boats have offered endless inspiration for our Spring-Summer 2009 designs. Along with various maritime themes, we take great pride in counting famous English sailor Ben Ainslie among our interviewees.

We have tried to interpret this traditional marine topic in a radical, contemporary way, in line with a cornerstone of our company’s philosophy, namely innovation.

Indeed, we firmly believe that the constant renewal of products, designs and market approaches is vital to a brand’s success – a principle that is strongly reflected in our new fabrics and garments collection.

It may seem paradoxical, but innovation is even more important during times of crisis, and there is certainly no denying that the world is undergoing an unprecedented period of uncertainty and change.

But this is when opportunities arise, and companies’ flexibility and creativity allow them to prosper and grow, despite adverse market conditions.

Recent months have also turned our thoughts to business ethics, as it would appear that a lack of moral values may be at the heart of the 2008 financial meltdown.

Ethical behaviour is a concept that seems somewhat at odds with the more short-term, profit-at-all-cost orientated world of large corporations. Luckily, Scabal has always had a more human and long-term approach – it seems to us that consumers and retailers alike will shift their focus and seek out brands that respect ethical values and have a proven history of consistency and loyalty to their products and customers.

Lastly, a thought on the definition of ‘new luxury’. We feel that it will be less ostentatious and more about individuality, personal comfort and inherent product quality. This may well prove to be a fundamental change in our industry, and one that will be fascinating to drive and pursue over the years to come.

Enjoy!

Peter and Gregor Thissen

J.P. Thissen, Chairman and his son Gregor, CEO Scabal Group

Do you have any suggestions or feedback?

Let us know at www.bespoken.com Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com Bespoken

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editorial comment

Long-term values, long-term inspiration

© Scabal

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Contributors temptations

The art of receiving The pleasure of giving me, myself and i

Traditional shaving instruments style guide

Wizard whiskers confession

Looking to London it makes the difference

The label: An ID card for a suit exceptional machines

Premium rally tailor’s dictionary

–From G to I– from sheep to shop

Scabal collection: Spring-Summer 2009 modern-day craftsmen

Where ‘the London cut’ was born pioneer spirit

The godfather of ‘the Row’ spring-summer 2009 trends

Tradition and modernity stylish accessories

Scabal’s Spring and Summer must-haves made-to-measure world

Bespoke yachts bring new meaning to luxury the bespoke coach

Keeping up seaside appearances

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interview

Ben Ainslie: A modern British sailor the gourmet place

Seafront selection agenda

Regatta round-up scabal across the seas

Sartoria Caprese in Capri

Bespoken

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suit therapy

Good clean advice… scabal across the world

Suits you, madam! autumn-winter 2009-2010 trends

Hundreds of luxurious cloths, designs and shades past-present-future

Inspiration Dali Fresh openings fashion online

Women’s views on men’s fashion Scabal worldwide

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www.ruinart.com

Taste our knowledge wisely.

BESPoKEn’S

cONTRIbUTORS

kIMbErlEy lOvatO Kimberley lovato is a freelance journalist whose articles about travel and lifestyle have appeared in the St. Petersburg Times, Tampa Bay Illustrated, French News, Together Magazine and various other print and online media in the uS and Europe. She is also the author of a soon-to-be-releasedbook about the dordogne region of France. She lives in Brussels with her husband and daughter.

alan CannOn-jOnES alan cannon-Jones was born in St. albans, England. after leaving school, he took an apprenticeship as a tailor with nicholson & co. during this time, he attended the london college of Fashion to gain his tailoring qualifi cations. nicholson & co was later taken over by chester Barrie, but alan continued to work with them, eventually becoming production manager. He is now the director of menswear and Bespoke tailoring at the london college of Fashion and continues to work as a consultant in the industry.

He is also a regular contributor to conferences on the subjects of menswear, bespoke tailoring and mass customization.

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jaMES ShErWOOD Trained at Saint martins fashion college, James Sherwood is the author/curator of The London Cut, a book and exhibition showcasing Savile row bespoke tailoring that has shown in Palazzo Pitti in Florence and the British ambassador’s residences in Paris and Tokyo. He has written about men’s style for more than a decade in the Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, The Spectator, The Sunday Telegraph and The Independent. For the past fi ve years, Sherwood has been the BBcs fashion critic at royal ascot and he is the curator of the archive room at n° 1 Savile row.

StEPhEn PaPanDrOPOulOS Based in Brussels, photographer Stephen Papandropoulos works predominantly on location for a variety of clients. With backdrops ranging from the uK to mexico and mozambique, his images pinpoint extraordinary moments in the ordinary. His work has received recognition from various international photography competitions and has been shown in a number of exhibitions.

jOSEPhInE OvErEEM Joséphine overeem is an amsterdam-born, Brusselsadopted journalist/life coach.

She loves both occupations and particularly enjoys writing profi les and interviews – she also understands entrepreneurs and what motivates them.

harOlD tIllMan Harold Tillman is the owner and chairman of iconic British fashion brand, Jaeger. He is seen as ‘one of the grandees of the fashion industry’ (Tim danaher, Retail Week) and has a fearsome reputation for being impeccably dressed. Tillman’s status and influence in the international fashion world was sealed with his appointment as chairman of the British Fashion council in February 20 08. He believes strongly in supporting young British fashion talent and, in 20 0 6, established a £1 million scholarship programme for postgraduate students at the london college of Fashion, the first major educational scholarship for the British fashion industry.

nIGEl bIShOP nigel Bishop has been a freelance writer in Belgium for the past 15 years, working with multinational companies in B2B communications. Prior to this, he worked for the dmB&B advertising agency in london and new york, before joining young&rubicam in Paris.

“Web work puts food on my table, but writing for magazines provides real pleasure,” says nigel.

bErnharD rOEtzEl Bernhard roetzel was born in Hanover and spent part of his childhood in South africa. after studying design, he worked as a copywriter at advertising agencies in Hamburg and Frankfurt and as a script editor for a television production company. author of the popular Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design, Bernhard roetzel has studied classic men’s fashion for more than ten years. apart from his work as an author and editor, he also holds lectures and seminars on style issues.

illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Bespoken

JA_0

XF: A NEW DESIGN FROM JAGUAR T H E J AG U A R X F CO M B I N E S T H E ST Y L E A N D P E R F O R M A N C E O F A R E A L S P O RT S C A R W I T H T H E R E F I N E M E N T, CO M F O RT A N D S PAC E O F A L U X U RY S A LO O N . CO M E A N D V I S I T O U R W E B S I T E AT W W W. J AG U A R . B E

7,5-12,6 L/100 KM. CO : 199-299 G/KM.

AVERAGE CONSUMPTION JAGUAR XF: 2 ENVIRONMENTAL INFORMATION (AR 19/03/04): WWW.JAGUAR.BE. MODEL SHOWN FEATURES OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT. GIVE WAY TO SAFETY.

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7/11/08 17:04:11

Admiral’s Cup name approved by the Royal Ocean Racing Club, London.

The Admiral’s Cup Tides 48 Titanium. Corum CO277 exclusive movement.

The only automatic movement providing information on the tides. www.corum.ch

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13.11.2008 14:43:59

TEmPTaTionS

THE ART OF REcEIVING

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miKaËl BourGEoiS

after having worked for many years with some of the most prestigious Swiss watchmakers, mikaël Bourgeois has now launched his own range of made-to-measure watches. in four to six months, this designer and technician will produce the watch of your dreams – the most dazzling display of sophistication, combining form, precise mechanisms and jewels. Whether in gold, platinum or diamonds, there are no limits to these timepieces. all design details can be personalized, which leaves you totally free to fulfi l your every desire.

Prices on request, from 12,000€

www.novodess.com

mES ViGnES

WaTT PuPPy

Wilson audio has launched the eighth version of its famous Watt Puppy, which was first created in 1988 and which won the prestigious title of audio art Best Performance 2005. The loudspeakers’ electronic sophistication guarantees a quality of sound that’s close to perfection. along with musical intensity comes visual flair – these speakers not only sound amazing, they look beautiful too. completely hand-made, the speakers can be personalized in many ways, from paint to hardware colour. Wilson audio’s beautifully designed website allows you to combine various options to create the look you desire for your speakers. all products are designed with Wilson Gloss technology, a paint and finish process that’s rivalled only by the world’s great automobile manufacturers.

15,000€ www.wilsonaudio.com

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launched in london in September 2008, lodger is a fresh brand of footwear with a unique concept – your experience begins with a laser scan, from which lodger build a 3d model of your foot. computer technology thus ensures the perfect fit and, since the company keeps a record of your scan, you only have to be measured once. Future orders can be placed from anywhere in the world with internet or phone connection, and for those looking for truly personal service, lodger offers ‘Shoe of the month’, with the fi rm creating a new design that is only available for 30 days. Each pair is individually made with the customer’s name handwritten inside.

Prices on request www.lodgerfootwear.com

What man has never dreamed of leaving it all behind, to settle in the French countryside and create his own wine? now, this dream can become reality in just a few clicks, without even leaving the sofa!

The website Mesvignes.com offers the opportunity to acquire a selection of vines for one year and to create your own wine, remotely. after having chosen your appellation (champagne, roussillon, Bordeaux, Touraine, Bandol, Sancerre or Burgundy) and the number of vines (12 or 24), you receive a vine-grower’s certificate, a vine to be planted at home and a sample of earth from your selected area. you will also receive an activation code, which enables you to follow your wine’s evolution online, from planting to when your bottles, labelled with your own name, arrive. For the truly dedicated, there is also an opportunity to take part in the grape harvest and meet the vine grower who maintains your vines. a personalized gift, par excellence...

12 vine plants from 254€ www.mesvignes.com

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lodGEr

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HolliSTEr’S

Based on the principle that every motorcyclist chooses his own style of bike according to his lifestyle and personality, German brand Hollister’s create individual handmade motors. Each bike is put through a 1,000km test drive and, upon delivery, the happy new owner is invited to spend a day’s instruction with the engineers who made the miracle possible. it’s not so much ‘Born To Be Wild’, as preached by Harley davidson, rather ‘live the dream’ with Hollister’s. Perhaps the most original way to express your personality?

From 35,000€ www.hollisters.de

TEMPTATIONS

THE PLEASURE OF GIVING

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Ego

Arriving in 2003, Ego was the first manufacturer to combine luxury with laptops.

Today, the company designs exclusive laptop models in collaboration with other renowned names, such as Ego For Bentley, which costs in excess of 15,000$! For the most demanding users, Ego offers personalization possibilities that are second to none, allowing you to create your very own made-to-measure laptop. This means you can design the cover as well as the inside, choose your type of keyboard and embroider your initials on the cover or have your name on the keyboard. Feminine options, such as diamonds and Swarovski crystal, will allow you to offer your loved one a very prestigious gift.

Prices on request www.ego-lifestyle.com

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Smythson

Although it’s fair to say that the email is now dominant, purists remain attached to the fine art of calligraphy. It is certain that your message takes on another dimension when it is hand-written on the finest-quality paper. Smythson, an English stationery specialist since 1887, offers full personalization of correspondence cards, writing paper, social and business cards, invitations, memos and even Christmas cards. No doubt mademoiselle will appreciate your delicate attention and will thank you with hand-written, impetuous, declarations of love!

50 cards and 50 envelopes (small postcard size) from 220€ www.smythson.com

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Les Ateliers Ruby

So, you’ve yielded to temptation, treated yourself to a new Hollister’s motorbike (see left page) and your partner is already moaning about your new hobby? Only one solution: an accessory that combines safety with style, to keep you safe on your long spins. Les Ateliers Ruby will allow you to design your own helmet, with many exclusive options. There are six sizes available (from xs to xxl), ten designs, 24 colours, in gloss, enamelled or matt. It’s possible to create three thousand different models, each delivered within five weeks, anywhere in the world! And, if your beloved is feeling even more generous, you can have an appointment in the Parisian workshop to produce an entirely made-to-measure helmet. A good reason for her to finally like your bike…

From 527€ € www.boutiqueruby.com

Guy & Max

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Renowned English jewellers and brothers Guy & Max offer a bespoke service that enables you to create the jewellery of your dreams. There’s nothing more simple – you can either pay a visit to their London boutique in Mayfair, where a designer will attend to your every need, or you can make your request via the internet, with a sketch or photo to show what you want. From earrings to engagement rings, Guy & Max will personalize all your dreams to the micro-millimetre.

Prices on request www.guyandmax.com

Creed

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As the established cosmetic giants battle it out with standardized scents, there are still small, independent perfumers offering exceptional fragrances. A case in point is the English Creed family, which has provided perfume for Napoleon III to Winston Churchill, also taking in Princes Charles, Elvis Presley and Julia Roberts. Creed allows you to design your own made-to-measure scent – a gift to charm whoever is closest to your heart. A personal appointment with none other than Olivier Creed himself is essential, to talk about the personality and passions of your gift’s intended.

A word of advice – don’t be impatient, as Creed only provides perfumes for five lucky customers each year, and there is a three-year waiting list! The Creed family remains very discreet concerning the prices charged, but there’s a rumour that Gérard Depardieu and Madonna each paid around £7,000 for their own special scents…

Prices on request www.creedfragrances.co.uk Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

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Me, Myself & I

Traditional shaving instruments 5

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Open razor

by Dovo, 97E www.dovo.com

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Adjustable hand held razor strop

by Streich-Riemen, 65E www.classicshaving.com

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Lozione dopo-barba 100ml after-shave

by Santa Maria Novella, 50E www.smnovella.it

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9 Photograph: Filip Vanzieleghem Coordination: Jérôme Stéfanski Special thanks to Au Grand Rasoir, Rue de l’Hôpital, 7 – 1000 Brussels – Belgium T. +32(0) 2 512 62 49

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Schiuma da barba 300ml shaving foam by Santa Maria Novella, 25E

www.smnovella.it

Mach III Razor badger shaving brush, bowl and

stand by Plisson Joris, 550E

www.rasageplisson.com

Sandalwood 100ml skin ‘food’

by Geo. F. Trumper, 15E

www.trumpers.com

Exfoliating cleansing gel by Aqua Di Parma, 100ml, 33E

www.acquadiparma.com

Chrome travel mirror With case by Geo. F. Trumper, 110E Extract of West Indian www.trumpers.com Limes 100ml after-shave

by Geo. F. Trumper, 25E

Alum stone by Osma, 5.50E www.trumpers.com www.laboratoiresosma.com

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REGULATOR

REGULATOR WITH RETROGRADE HOUR

Ref. A3014/2

www.perrelet.com

STYLE GUIDE

Wizard whiskers Love them or hate them, one thing’s for sure – the beard and moustache are back with a vengeance.

Tank top, shirt, cufflinks and tie: Scabal Watch: skeleton chronograph by Perrelet Model: Dave Monfort Make-up: Florence Samain Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski Photographers: by2 Photographers – bytwo.be The moustache

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The beard

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THE PERFECT SHAVE A. Preparation 1. Cover the face with a hot, wet towel to open pores and provide deep skin relaxation.

2. Apply pre-shaving lotion to moistened skin.

3. Apply shaving cream with brush to soften the beard.

C. Final touches

6. Rinse face with cold water,

B. Shaving

to tighten pores and prevent blood spots.

7. Use an alum stone to further tighten pores and reduce razor burn.

8. Apply non-alcohol balm.

9. Cover the face with a cold, wet towel to close pores.

your beard, so as not to irritate the skin.

5. Shave a second time against the grain, to obtain the closest possible cut.

All photos accompanying this article were taken at New York Barbershop, Rotterdam, The Netherlands – newyorkbarbershop.nl

4. Shave first with the grain of

confession

LOOKING TO LONDON Why is British fashion unique? How does one define the British ‘touch’?

British Fashion Council Chairman Harold Tillman offers his view. © Colin Levêcque

Scabal’s ‘Made in England’ fabric, Private Line collection

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nternational audiences come to London to see some of the most exciting emerging design talents in the world. Here is where new fashion design businesses start, where the city’s cultural diversity has inspired generation after generation of designers to push trend boundaries and ignite passion. London embraces both establishment and the new – these opposing poles of influence spark an incredible creative energy.

British fashion is widely recognized as being among the most cuttingedge – we’re brave in the way our design defines us, from Mary Quant to Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. The brand-led markets of New York, Paris and Milan

look to London for dynamism and inspiration.

We have just announced plans to launch the largest-ever UK fund to develop designers and are completely committed to supporting and sustaining our young talent. As British Fashion Council Chairman, I have commissioned a report into the importance of the fashion industry to the British economy and plan to increase business support and training for designers, working with colleges to incorporate more business development into their courses and introducing the first Fashion MBA. I believe our fashion colleges are among the best in the world – their expertise, combined with the city’s creative influences produce true individualists and the world’s most

exciting designers. But the students also need to showcase their work and in my new role I plan to help young talent get on the ladder.

The British ‘touch’, I think, is defined by our colleges, which have exceptional resources and lecturers to mould the outstanding design talents who start their businesses in London.

One of my proudest moments was to establish my own scholarship at the London College of Fashion (of which I am a member of the alumni) two years ago – it enables students to realize their dreams. With next year being the British Fashion Council’s 25th anniversary, the spotlight will more than ever be on the country’s inspiring fashion ­– there are great days ahead!

Harold Tillman Bespoken

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IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

The label: an ID card for a suit Every year, Scabal produces more than 150,000 cloth-woven labels for their cut lengths.

What information do these labels communicate? Where are they produced?

Why are they so important? So many questions…

So who better to answer than Scabal’s 40-year-serving Administrative Director Maurice Gillet, and his right-hand woman Marianne De Greef?

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De Greef. Up to four pieces of information can appear on each label to describe the fabric: the raw material from which it was made (cashmere, silk, linen, cotton), the name of collection (Summit, Gold Treasure, Diamond Chip, Lapis Lazuli), its origin (Made in England) and the superfine grading, such as Super 150’s, Super 180’s (related to the quality, staple length and fineness of the wool fibre).

SCABAL’S LABEL – FROM WHAT, FROM WHERE, WITH WHAT? “The role of the label is to inform the consumer about the type of fabric used to make his garment,” explains Marianne

All labels are made from satin and come from Europe, thus confirming the ‘Made in Europe’ claim to the last detail. The labels are sewed inside every garment made in Scabal’s Saarbrucken factory in Germany, and they are also sent to every tailor who orders Scabal fabric.

aurice Gillet is an organized man. When I meet him to ask about the production of Scabal’s labels, he points me towards a dictionary definition of the term ‘label’: ‘A small piece of paper or plastic bearing a drawing or inscription placed on or attached to a product or object.’ A tailor-made definition for a Scabal label!

INTERVIEW Bespoken: How

many different labels do you produce every year?

Maurice Gillet and Marianne De Greef: Each type of label is

related to its collection. We design approximately fifteen new fabric collections per season. Consequently, we produce around thirty new label designs a year. In total, around 150,000 labels are produced annually!

Who designs the labels?

Michael Day, Scabal Design & Creation Director, and his assistant Nora Krämer, let us know what they want according to whatever new fabrics they have created. The label is then designed

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according to the characteristic of the fabric and sometimes the colour of the selvedge.

All these elements combine to present a homogeneous colour code in order to create a harmonious and easily identifiable unit.

What are the main types of labels?

There are two main categories distinguishable entirely by their formatting. Square blue labels used for standard fabrics, while the labels in the shape of a large rectangle are for exceptional fabrics such as Summit, Diamond Chip (Super 150’s and Silk with Diamond Fragments) or Gold Treasure (Super 150’s and 22 carat gold).

‘Each label is made of satin and is pre-cut and corrected by laser in order to facilitate the work of the tailor’

How have the labels evolved?

The labels have had several technical improvements, driven by quality.

Today, each label is made of satin and is pre-cut and corrected by laser in order to facilitate the work of the tailor when he sews it on the garment.

We have recently launched a new project aimed at improving the presentation of our labels which, before now, were fastened to the fabric that was sent to the tailor. Our idea is to create a high-class paper presentation leaflet, with both the label and all the details concerning the fabric, which should be ready to be offered to our customers during 2009.

Jérôme Stéfanski

Š Filip Vanzieleghem

Scabal’s labels Bespoken

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EXCEPTIONAL MACHINES

Premium RaLLY Exactly at the point where Germany, Switzerland and France touch noses, in the peaceful city of Basel-on-Rhine, at the end of summer, a distinguished crowd gets together at the Fair in Hall 2.

Who are they? What are they up to? Explanation time...

Š S. William

The 19 th Raid Suisse-Paris

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n fact, they’re there to discover a very private exhibition of luxury cars: an almost complete overview of the nec plus ultra of the premium segment yet to go on the market. The event is the Raid Premium Car & Luxury Show and it’s unique. The invitations only go out to a happy few – there are a 1,000 or so guests present. They might buy one of these splendid cars one day but, for most of them, their hearts flutter over the cherished oldies being tested on the centre court – 250 of the most beautiful vintage cars in the world (vintage meaning from 1975 and before), all still in full gear, have been flown in from everywhere in the world – not only from Europe but also Mexico, the United States and even from Japan.

All are there to take part in the 19th Raid Suisse-Paris – around half the owners already know each other from former rallies. The Alfa Romeo and Renault museums are participating with some of their most beautiful collection pieces, while the rest have arrived thanks to word-of-mouth recommendations.

GENTLEMEN’S RALLY So, the next morning, off they set.

The flag goes down and the crowds applaud. Real sports cars go for the authentic rally challenge – a night tour, all inclusive. There are the veterans: some of them date back before World War II and, of course, there are the tourist cars.

Some of the participants wearing a made-to-measure dark blue Scabal blazer they ordered months ago, with the Raid slogan: ‘Vive le raid’ embroidered on the red felt undercollar, and also woven into the silk lining. The very discreet redstitched buttonhole allows the wearers to acknowledge each other with an ever-so-discreet nod – the day before, the second year of collaboration between The Raid and Scabal was marked. It all began in the late autumn of 2006 when Mr. H.A. Bichsel, the man who invented the concept

of the Raid, discovered a magazine advertisement by Scabal in which a young gentleman wore a jacket in striped cloth, while sitting in an MG old-timer. The Swiss rally entrepreneur did not hesitate and called Gregor Thissen, CEO of Scabal in Brussels.

Lo and behold, Olivier Vander Slock, who was responsible for the whole campaign, happened to be in Basel.

‘Next year, we’ll find something else that will link scabal to the raid’ It did not take long before the organizer of the most exclusive Raid in Europe and the CEO of Scabal saw that they had a shared interest.

During the Raid Premium Car & Luxury Show 2007, Scabal would exhibit the advertisement. While their vintage cars were being tested on the fairground their owners could discover the suit, worn by the model in the MG with accompanying Scabal suitcase.

“I remember at the time we prepared the picture how difficult it was to cover the suitcase,” says Vander Slock. “But Gregor Thissen personally knows the owner of Delvaux and it was with the help of Maison Delvaux that the job was done.”

“Next year, we’ll find something else that will link Scabal to the Raid,” Vander Slock adds. “It is impressive to see how much passion these people put into their vintage cars and it’s very nice how relaxed they mix with the other participants. It is indeed a high-potential clientele and we are very happy to be one of the preferred partners.”

Bichsel, a suave and agreeable Swissborn entrepreneur who bears his sixty-something years very well, knows high-class brands intimately from the time he worked in Paris. “All roads lead to Paris as far as I am concerned, because Paris is the town where the automobile culture has its roots. I liked the idea of linking my own country with an event that celebrates these roots and the idea of the Raid Suisse-Paris was born. It was a success right from the start. Today

we have an organization of 400 people.

The technical assistance during the Raid already accounts for half of the reputation that The Raid has built up over the years.

The other half may be due to the fact that participants discover a new route every year and how well they are catered for during the event.”

ITINERARY This year, the Raid went from Basel along the Baden wine route to Kaiserstuhl and on through the Black Forest high road to the elegant Spa town Baden-Baden. There, the participants were welcomed in a beautiful castle with drinks and dinner and are lodged in luxury hotels. The second day takes them – guided by an impeccable road book – by littleknown roads through the Vosges, along forest and streams, to the Champagne region, arriving in the spacious park of Champagne Pommery in Reims.

The third day, vineyards stand by the morning roads, passing through quiet viticultural villages guarded by proud castles. Arrival is at the history-laden renaissance castle of the RothschildDynasty Château de Ferrières in Seineand-Marne. Impeccable English-style gardens form the ideal setting for the Raid’s final aperitif. The gala dinner and prize ceremony then take place at the Hotel Le Méridien Etoile, near the Arc de Triomphe. The next day, the participants drive back to Basel on a prepared route.

What strikes Bichsel most about the participants? “Their kindness and their absolute fair play. I can illustrate this with a small anecdote. While passing over the Rhine one of the cars needed water to cool a heated radiator. Without any hesitation another participant stopped, took off his jacket and made trips to a nearby river.

However, when he did not return, the other participants went to look and discovered he had fallen into the water and had to be helped out. There he was, dripping wet from head to toe, with a big smile on his face.

If this is not real rally adventure, what is? ” Go to www.raid.ch for more information on the 2009 Raid Suisse-Paris Joséphine Overeem Bespoken

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From G to I Step by step, Bespoken highlights the terms used by tailors to help you create the suit of your dreams. If you missed the other articles in this series, you can order previous editions of our magazine at Bespoken.com

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©F. Uyttenhove

Tailor’s Dictionary

Tailor’s Dictionary

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Gathering

The shortening of the fabric length by drawing together and holding a succession of small folds of material by stitching.

Gauge

A standard measure of distance, such as the distance between needles on a twin-needle sewing machine for edge stitching.

Grain

The direction of the warp of the fabric which runs up and down its length. A garment would normally be cut on the grain, cross grain is cutting a garment across the grain, off grain is cutting a garment on the bias and the grain line is marked on each pattern piece to ensure the correct direction of the grain.

Grinning

This term is used when a seam has opened as a result of incorrect sewing thread tension. The stitches can be seen to ‘grin’ through the fabric.

Gussett

A piece of fabric inserted to strengthen or enlarge an area of the garment.

Gimp

A special thread used to support and raise buttonhole stitching. Also used for embroidery.

Glaze

A term describing the finish of a cloth with a smooth, high-polished surface. This is obtained by means of friction when calendaring in fabric form. Also, a shiny mark or effect of glaze obtained by excessively hot ironing or bad pressing in garment processing.

Gloss

Shine on fabric after pressing, usually caused by heat and pressure in the areas of extra thickness such as pockets and seams.

Goose

An old term to describe a pressing iron that was similar to a goose in shape.

Gore

A wedge-shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment section to obtain width at a specific place. Sometimes inserted into the interlining canvas in the shoulder area to create a specific shoulder shape.

Gorge Seam

The seam joining the neck of the jacket to the collar.

Grading

The process of producing a range of patterns of different sizes from a master pattern.

Gorge seam

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Grading

Haircloth

A springy, wiry fabric used to interline and strengthen a jacket or coat in the chest area. It has a cotton or linen warp and a weft of horsehair. The hair used is from the mane or tail.

Handle

The feeling of a fabric in the hand.

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Tailor’s Dictionary

Hanger (Cloth)

A tab of binding or lining fixed at the top centre of the jacket back neck across the collar seam. This is used to hang the garment on a peg when it is not being worn.

This should only be used if a coat hanger is not available.

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Hanger (Coat)

A device usually made of wood (for tailored garments), which is used to hang up a garment.

Inlay

Hare Pocket

An extra large pocket inserted into the lining of a jacket or coat in the hip area. This usually has a button fastening. So named, as it was used by poachers to hide a hare – also used by professional gamekeepers and gillies.

An extra piece of fabric in the garment’s seam, to allow for future alteration.

Interlining (Interfacing)

Heat Setting

Stabilization of fibres, yarns and threads with heat.

A layer of fabric inserted between the front and the lining of a jacket or coat. This gives stability, shaperetention and strength. The interlining can be sewn in or bonded by heat.

Hem

Iron

The fabric turned up at the bottom of a garment, such as at the bottom of the trouser leg or the bottom edge of a jacket.

Hemming Tape

A narrow reinforcing tape used in the hem of tailored trousers to prevent wear on the fabric and subsequent fraying.

Hem

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A hand tool used when pressing a garment. This is usually pointed at the front and square at the rear with a handle at the top so that a balanced grip may be obtained. Irons are generally heated by electricity butover many years alternative methods have included gas,steam, charcoal or a stove.

Inlay

Hare

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Surface unevenness after garment pressing, usually around any areas of extra thickness such as pockets and seams.

Text: Alan Cannon-Jones Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

Scabal Collection: Spring-Summer 2009

© Scabal

Bespoken talks to Scabal Design & Creation Director Michael Day, about the Spring-Summer 2009 collection.

A look at the fabrics and designs that discerning men around the world will be choosing this season.

‘Casual chic’ by Scabal Bespoken

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‘Not too loud. The year 2009 is casual, comfortable, soft and luxurious, but discreet’

Conventional? Dull? Stuffy? Static?

Absolutely not! There are strong trends sweeping the top end of men’s fashion.

SPENDING MORE ON DRESSING DOWN The mood is unmistakable. Like motor cars, where each new model is just a bit more luxurious than its predecessor, men’s luxury casual wear is on a steady and continuous climb.

A few years ago, men might have been happy with a good quality wool-cotton jacket – they just didn’t want to invest in the casual look. Now, they’re after luxurious blends such as cashmere-silk.

They want to look sophisticated and relaxed, and not just at weekends “Sometimes you’re ahead of a trend, sometimes you’re not,” admits Michael Day. “But this time, with the upward move to luxury in casual clothing, we are right on the button.”

LUXURY GOES CASUAL “Scabal started upgrading its casual collections a couple of seasons ago,” Day adds, “when we brought out our first cashmere-cotton cloth for suits and trousers in Spring 2008. Sales were good, but we expect them to be even stronger in 2009.”

“We are already creating Spring-Summer 2010 collections, blending super-fine cotton with an even more luxurious fibre than cashmere! Casual has become luxurious, and luxury today is all about being casual.”

This quality upgrade is not confined to Summer casual clothing. Scabal has introduced new designs to its cashmere-corduroy collection (10 per cent cashmere, 90 per cent cotton) for the Winter 2008 range.

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SIGN OF THE TIMES In many parts of the world, there is more than a hint of discretion in luxury markets. Red and yellow sports cars are moving more slowly off the shelves, with a preference for sedate shades. Likewise with clothing, it seems that people prefer ‘quieter’ statements when times are difficult. Modesty and discretion are back in fashion.

© Fotostudio Uyttebroeck

FABRICS

“We definitely have more semi-plain designs in 2009 and most of our checks and stripes are softer,” Michael confirms.

“Our new Lifestyle collection is a perfect example. With 36 suiting patterns and various qualities of Super 120’s, 130’s and wool-silk, it is a mixture of tastes that reflects the diversity of demand.

But 2009 designs have one common denominator: sobriety.”

ERA OF DISCRETION “There’s a call for narrower stripes now.

In our classical suiting patterns we see stripes of half a centimetre or so, whereas a couple of years ago most were more than a centimetre apart.”

“Take a mainstream collection like Eton, a Super 130’s cloth with no less than 92 designs in 2009, featuring much softer striped and check designs. Or our Mohair, where soft, fresh, plain shades dominate more than ever.

“And what could illustrate this trend better than our new Romance collection?

One hundred per cent worsted-spun cashmere jacketing in thirty-one designs to meet the demand for high quality. It is fancy jacketing but with soft checks and delicate romantic colours. Not too loud.

The year 2009 is casual, comfortable, soft and luxurious, but discreet.”

‘Romance’ collection

Men are shedding kilos in health clubs, and they want to show it.

So the slim-fit silhouette style will continue in the new season

How will the cloth be cut in 2009?

Scabal Sales and Product Director Olivier Vander Slock introduces the new Scabal suit collection.

SLIMMER IN 2009 Men are shedding kilos in health clubs, and they want to show it. So the slimfit silhouette style will continue in the new season. Jackets are shorter with a single vent, slimmer fit and narrower lapels. Sleeves are narrower too, with a higher pitch. The waist is also lower, accentuating the tall, slender shape.

Even ties have shed centimetres around the middle.The slimmer look carries on down to the trousers, which have a lowered waist band and narrower cut legs. It is a younger, sharper, fitter look for well-dressed men in 2009.

SPRING-SUMMER STARS Lapis Lazuli: This classic in the top segment features a range of 14 blueon-blue suiting patterns. It’s a perfect illustration of how Scabal combines technological know-how with a longstanding tradition of craftsmanship.

Lapis Lazuli – or blue stone – has been mined and cherished for more than 6,000 years. Royalty and rulers in Mesopotamia, Egypt, Persia, Greece and Rome extolled its therapeutic qualities – said to improve potency, immunity and intellectual abilities.

Scabal has developed a technique to spin microscopic particles of this semiprecious stone into Super 150’s wool.

It gives the Lapis Lazuli collection a natural sheen with a unique, luxurious feel. For gentlemen seeking quality… and love.

FOUR THEMES “The trend to blends – like silk, linen and cotton blended with wool – gives a relaxed look to the new collection,” explains Olivier Vander Slock. “The mood is contemporary and comfortable with a light and luxurious feel. Four main themes gather up the Scabal collection into atmospheres… let’s call them Sunny, Africa, Travel and Ocean.”

SUNNY “The strongest theme is created around a cool and urban look with white, grey, light blue and beige, in combination with soft sunny yellow.

Delicate herringbone patterns and natural textures of organic yarns are mixed with plain, un-patterned lightweight cloths. The result is an effortless modernity, with a cool urban feel.”

AFRICA “The second theme draws on the contrasts of Africa, with light sandy hues and deep brown woody colours. Cloths are noble, soft and subtly iridescent, with the dry touch of linen

tempered by cashmere, silk and cotton blends.

The outcome is casual luxury – smart suits with a new Bohemian feel for men who prefer an original, more individual style.”

TRAVEL “This third atmosphere combines traditional grey with green and lilac, updated with a hint of purple. Our technical craftsmanship blends vegetable fibres with hi-tech yarns, creating delicate, refined patterns of tone on tone and chiaroscuro contrasts.These are cloths for businessmen in search of topquality comfortable travel suits.”

OCEAN “Drawing inspiration from the sea, this theme uses blue with hints of orange and white from seashore shells. The core is based on ultraclean gabardines with a finish, patterned with simple stripes or subtle tone-on-tone designs.

Chic and elegant, the theme is a new luxurious interpretation of the casual look, with an optimistic reference to sunny California.”

Acapulco: On the leading edge of the upgrade to luxury casual wear, Acapulco mixes linen with soft cashmeres and silks. Colours range from natural white, beige, brown and pastel blue to salmon pink and grey.

The striped, checked and un-patterned jacket designs make Acapulco a chic, sophisticated choice for weekend wear.

Mohair Collection: Scabal has added two new mohair qualities to its established Monterey Bay and Paloma Bay lines in 2009. Cannes blends kid mohair with linen and silk, while a new 60 per cent kid mohair, ‘Made in England’, brings extra refinement to summer suits. All four mohair lines are cool to the touch, comfortable and lightweight – exuding sheer luxury.

© Fotostudio Uyttebroeck

CUT AND COLOURS

‘Lapis Lazuli’ collection

Nigel Bishop

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Modern-day craftsmen

Where ‘the London cut’ was born To borrow a sentiment from Umberto Eco, “We all stand on the shoulders of giants”. Nowhere is this more true than on Savile Row where, for more than two centuries, the craft of bespoke tailoring has been practised by successive generations of tailors who are acknowledged to be the world’s best suit makers.

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s the global economy heads into rough seas, Savile Row can console itself that a year or two is a drop in the ocean of time that tailoring has survived in this short London street.

The Row has survived two world wars, the Great Depression and Giorgio Armani to emerge in a surprisingly robust state in 2008. A brief look into tailoring history may explain why the craft will not be scuppered. © Gieves & Hawkes

Gieves & Hawkes’s archive

ORIGINS OF ‘THE ROW’ One has to peel historical Mayfair like an onion to find the origins of bespoke tailoring on and around Savile Row. Legend has it that it was a street of surgeons who migrated to Harley Street as the house of Henry Poole & Co came to dominate ‘the Row’ from 1846. Henry Poole does indeed deserve the moniker Godfather of Savile Row, but his was not the first tailoring house on the block.

Tailors invariably follow wealth and fashion; hence the purveyors of gentlemen’s requisites gravitated around the great aristocratic houses built in the Mayfair-Piccadilly-St James’s axis 24

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during the late 18th century. One of the grandest of these mansions was Burlington House (now the Royal Academy of Arts) that faces Piccadilly, with its orchards covering what we now know as Savile Row. Names still familiar today such as shoemaker John Lobb, hatter James Lock, tailor Hawkes & Co (now Gieves & Hawkes) and barber Trumper were already the height of fashion in 1790 when the Prince Regent (later King George IV) and self-proclaimed ‘man of mode’ George ‘Beau’ Brummell led men’s fashion. But it wasn’t until 1846 – when Henry Poole made the decision to reverse the entrance of his famous tailor’s shop from Old Burlington Street to Savile Row – that the tailors began their colonization of the street they still dominate to this day.

Poole’s is not the oldest bespoke tailor in London. That honour goes to court and ceremonial tailors Ede & Ravenscroft (1689) followed by Gieves & Hawkes (established in 1785 and 1771 respectively). But Poole’s is the prototype purveyor of the London Cut in the grand, traditional style.

‘Old Pooley’ was what we would now consider a celebrity tailor. His magnificent premises at N° 36 Savile Row was as exclusive an address as White’s Club and attracted friends of Henry Poole such as Bertie, Prince of Wales, the man who was to become Emperor Napoleon III, the Crown Prince of Prussia, King Umberto of Italy and Tsar Alexander II of Russia, not to mention authors Charles Dickens and Wilkie Collins.

The myths surrounding Henry Poole still bathe the house in an aura of glamour and lost splendour. It was he who, with

Baron de Rothschild, loaned Napoleon III £10,000 to advance his campaign for the throne of France. It was he who, in 1860, cut the prototype evening dress coat for the Prince of Wales; replicating it in 1886 for Mr James Potter of Tuxedo Park and thus giving America a new sartorial term. Though Henry died almost insolvent in 1876 after years of offering near-unlimited credit for his glamorous clientele and high living on a similar scale, the house survived and passed into the Cundey family in 1883, where it remains.

20TH CENTURY: ‘LONDON CUT’ The origins of the famed ‘London Cut’ of Savile Row bespoke tailoring can be traced back to the aforementioned Beau Brummell, the true spirit of the dandy, who rejected excess and embellishment in favour of a sober palette, clean lines and immaculate fit. One only has to look at boutique financiers around Mayfair today in their navy singlebreasted one button suits and crisp white Turnbull & Asser shirts to see that British men’s style hasn’t moved so far away from Beau’s strategy of the early 1900s. The emergence of what we now know as Savile Row’s ‘Royal Family’ did not happen until almost a century later. In 1906, Anderson & Sheppard was established by Swedishborn Per Anderson who had trained under the legendary Dutchman Mr Scholte. The birth of Anderson & Sheppard coincided with the birth of the film business in Hollywood. Not coincidentally, the firm embraced screen idols such as Rudolph Valentino and went on to dress the unimpeachably chic Fred Astaire in the 1930s when the Prince of Wales’s tailor Hawes & Curtis refused to copy one of Prince Edward’s suits at the request of Astaire.

The origins of the famed ‘London Cut’ of Savile Row bespoke tailoring can be traced back to Beau Brummell, the true spirit of the dandy Typical English touches in Savile Row © S. Papandropoulos Bespoken

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inevitable and selling a ready-to-wear line internationally, though they were by no means the first. As early as 1930, Hawkes & Co at N° 1 Savile Row were advertising a collection of ‘immediate wear’ garments.

ONE LEITMOTIF: HANDMADE Pride in the purity of bespoke tailoring – suits measured by hand, pattern cut by hand, fittings sewn and finished by hand – is unshaken on Savile Row. However, only Anderson & Sheppard, Welsh & Jefferies, Davies & Son, Henry Poole & Co and Dege & Skinner restrict their UK production to bespoke.

Great historical houses such as Gieves & Hawkes and Ede & Ravenscroft retain their bespoke workrooms but have also developed ready-to-wear and made-to-measure collections for entrylevel suits that may, in time, grow into bespoke custom.

© VisMedia

Anderson & Sheppard went on to dress Gary Cooper, Noel Coward, Ronald Coleman, Sir Laurence Olivier and Cary Grant. The house favoured a softer shoulder than is traditional at, say, Henry Poole & Co, and a more draped coat that caresses rather than constricts.

It is a shape that continues to fascinate the Hollywood market, which still chooses Anderson & Sheppard as their preferred Savile Row tailors.

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H. Huntsman & Sons opened its doors in 1849 but arrived at its present address on the Row in 1919. Notoriously the most costly Savile Row tailor, the Huntsman bespoke block is one of the most distinctive. It is also the cut most associated with Savile Row tailoring: sharp shoulders, a slightly long coat, the one-button that is so notoriously difficult to balance and the emphasis on a clean, fitted line. This heroic shape was developed by the great Hutsman Managing Director Colin Hammick, who died earlier this year.

1981 saw Huntsman bowing to the

The artist formerly known as Kilgour, French & Stanbury is perhaps the most radical streamlining of what was formerly a bespoke giant established in 1923, when Kilgour & French united under one roof. The house’s history on the Row is as revered as Huntsman or Anderson & Sheppard but it’s relentlessly modern putsch under creative director Carlo Brandelli has taken Kilgour closer to fashion brands such as Lanvin or Bottega Veneta than to Poole’s and Dege.

Kilgour retains bespoke workshops but the cool, minimal facades of N°s 5 and 8 Savile Row sell ready-towear and made-to-measure, designed

by Brandelli and shown biannually at the runway shows in Paris.

Brandelli aspires for Kilgour to be an international luxury men’s fashion brand. He’s not the first.

WHEN BESPOKE MEETS FASHION In the early 1990s, a trinity of bespoke tailors gave Savile Row the kiss of life by bringing fashion and craft together

© Scabal

The evolution of Scabal in Savile Row

1970

1980

2008

for the first time since the glory days of Nutter and Sexton. Richard James, Ozwald Boateng and Timothy Everest all made a lot of noise in the fashion press and brought the attention back to bespoke with creative stock models such as a two-piece camouflage suit (James), a purple single-breasted one button with acid yellow lining (Boateng) and Nutteresque Prince of Wales three-piece suits from Everest, who trained under Nutter. The fact that these names are still called ‘new boys’ may irritate the new establishment tailors but it’s a testament that a decade or two isn’t so long on Savile Row. In the interim, Nick Hart and Richard Anderson have both opened own-label operations on the Row, led by bespoke, while Boateng and James have supersized to being the owners of shops with the largest floor space on the Row. In James’s case he cleverly split his bespoke and ready-to-wear operations between shop sites that face each other across Savile Row/Clifton Street.

In Boateng’s, it was the audacious opening of his headquarters on what was formerly Anderson & Sheppard’s corner of Savile Row.

with flagship stores scattered across the globe. Fashion has once again turned to the London Cut, with designers as diverse as Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier and Tom Ford referencing classic Savile Row style. While these designers are charging upwards of £5,000 for ready-to-wear, Savile Row’s entry price of £3,500 for bespoke starts to look positively frugal.

and cutter Edward Sexton opened Nutters of Savile Row and brought the energy and swinging hip of the late 1960s/early 70s ‘Youthquake’ to a previously sedate Savile Row. Rupert Lycett Green’s Blades boutique on Burlington Gardens (now Ede & Ravenscroft) introduced high fashion ready-to-wear under the slogan ‘for today rather than the memory of yesterday’ while characters such as Bobby Valentine brought a flamboyance not seen in men’s style since before World War II. Thus, Savile Row was rocking when Scabal took-up residence at N° 12; cleverly bringing luxury menswear cloths woven primarily in Huddersfield to the heartland of British bespoke tailoring. The social and financial temperature on the Row was perfect for the introduction of a Scabal presence while fashion was firmly in favour of the more esoteric and extravagant cloths that Scabal was already noted for.

Somewhat ironically for a business that relies so heavily on City money and US trade, Savile Row’s bespoke tailors huddled together on this short street are in better shape in the global recession than the luxury-goods giants

As the world becomes increasingly obsessed with carbon footprints, there’s Savile Row cutting, sewing and finishing bespoke suits within a mile radius of cloth that’s woven exclusively in the UK. It was inevitable that consumerism could not spin the world around any faster and, thus, Savile Row’s stately three-month period to cut a bespoke suit seems less objectionable as fast fashion slows down.

There’s also sustainability to consider.

With care, a Savile Row bespoke suit lasts for life and encourages one to keep the shape it was originally cut for. All the above combine to create the conditions for a perfect storm that will fill Savile Row’s sails and drive them forward for another 200 years.

SCABAL AND SAVILE ROW – A LONG STORY Scabal couldn’t have chosen a better year to open its now iconic store at N° 12 Savile Row than 1970. On St. Valentine’s Day the previous year, visionary designer Tommy Nutter

A man who witnessed the growth of Scabal in Savile Row almost from the beginning is Mr John Harvey who joined the firm in 1975 and retires this year. He has been in cloth as man and boy, having left school at 16 and worked for 15 years at Hunt & Winterbottom, a British cloth merchant, before joining Scabal. He reflects on 33 years of Scabal and Savile Row. Bespoken

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© Scabal

‘Savile Row in the 70s had a certain mystique but I’d agree that there’s a similar sense of optimism on the Row today’

The Savile Row Scabal team. From left to right: Terry Brown, Ricky Sahota, Hazel Edmonds and John Harvey.

Missing from picture: Chris Brown

INTERVIEW Bespoken : Mr Harvey, can you tell us your earliest impressions of the Row when you arrived in 1975?

John Harvey: I wasn’t a stranger to the Row because my brother was a director at Anderson & Sheppard – one of the grand old houses along with Henry Poole & Co, Kilgour, French & Standbury and Gieves & Hawkes – and it was he who recommended me to Hunt & Winterbottom. When I arrived at Scabal, Tommy Nutter was across the road (where Davies & Son was). He was a lovely chap, no side to him, but more importantly he came into Savile Row and did something a little bit different.

What was Scabal’s business in the 70s?

We sold cloth; more than 200 suit lengths in the shop at one time. In those days, there was a big business for foreign visitors who’d buy a cloth from us and take it back home to be made up by a local tailor. At that time, they couldn’t take the cloth to a tailor on the Row. Now, that’s where the tailors made their profits.

They had to supply the cloth.

We see echoes of that Nutter era on the Row today with designertailors such as Nick Hart, Ozwald Boateng, Richard James and Richard Anderson bringing flair and a level of high fashion to bespoke tailoring.

Savile Row in the 70s had a certain mystique but I’d agree that there’s a similar sense of optimism on the Row today. I think it’s nice to see made-to-measure companies coming in to complement pure bespoke. It combines well to have all levels of top-end men’s tailoring available on the street.

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Can we time-travel a bit more? Was Scabal very well known when you first worked for the house?

Well, Scabal wasn’t really sold in the UK previous to the Savile Row shop. We had to build the business from the ground up.

You may find it hard to believe, that in those days, Lebanon was the centre of the fabric-buying business. It was the troubles in the Lebanon that made the cloth business relocate to London. Well, Scabal suddenly took off. We did extremely well producing the finest cloth in the world. We still do. The magic words are still ‘made in England’.

Did you have a lot to do with the designs of the cloth?

I would definitely relay requests from men who came into N° 12 Savile Row to the mill at Huddersfield. That’s a very important factor in Scabal’s success. We own our own mill and can control design, creation, manufacturing and marketing of the fabrics.

How has fashion in men’s suitingfabric evolved?

Designs such as pinstripe, chalkstripe and Prince of Wales check will always be there. All we do as a company is make them in higher and higher qualities. But Scabal is equally famed for its innovations such as ‘Gold Treasure’ (a Super 150’s with 22-carat gold pinstripe). ‘Diamond Chip’ (the first cloth producing diamond fragments), Summit (made from Super 250’s wool) and the pure Vicuna suiting.

The London Cut of Savile Row bespoke suits tends to demand a heavier weight of cloth. How can suiting fabrics get ever more refined and be built to last?

Well, the pure Vicuna suit is only

accessible to the man who has every other suit imaginable in his wardrobe and would thus wear it on particularly special occasions. When I came into the trade in the 1960s, the typical suit weight was an 18-ounce flannel. Scabal still produces the 15- or 16-ounce range because certain clients still want that weight but, by and large, the trend is towards lighter weights.

How important is the Savile Row connection for Scabal?

Very important and particularly relevant to our largest international markets like Japan, India, China, Korea and The United States, who revere Savile Row tailoring.

Scabal is an important name in the made-to-measure market. How has the relationship with the tailors of Savile Row evolved over the years?

As I said, in the 1960s and 70s, the tailors would only cut suits from cloth that they supplied. Very few can afford to hold the stock on the premises now, hence the importance of our bunches. What hasn’t changed is that everyone helps one another on the Row. We’re all in the same business and it is in everybody’s interest to be seen to be buoyant.

What will you miss most about Scabal and Savile Row? The characters that this business attracts – both the tailors and the customers – and a pride that we are selling, without question, the finest fabrics in the world.

Scabal 12, Savile Row London W1S 3PQ T. +44 20 77 34 89 63 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com

© Scabal

Scabal today in Savile Row

GOURMET RECOMMENDATIONS When you visit Savile Row to discover Scabal, why not take time to try two great restaurants, as recommended by Bespoken?

Sartoria In 1997, Vanity Fair declared ‘London Swings Again’ with a now-iconic portrait of New Establishment tailors Ozwald Boateng, Timothy Everest and Richard James on Savile Row. Sir Terence Conran opened Sartoria a year later, capitalizing on the new optimism around the Row. Though no longer Conran-owned, Sartoria has changed little. The decor is Tokyo-meetsManhattan minimal, the service is impeccable and the modern Italian menu from head chef Alan Marchetti is seasonal and simply elegant: rich, creamy asparagus risotto, veal Milanese with rocket salad, lobster spaghetti and king scallops, pancetta, young beetroot and celery.

The tailoring theme is not laboured, but two amusing Jessica Worrall obese tailor’s dummy sculptures and Sir Rex Harrison’s patterns for My Fair Lady (1964) hang discreetly in the private dining room. Now that smoking is banned in London’s restaurants, most of Sartoria’s tape-

measure ashtrays have found their way into Savile Row’s workrooms, where they are used to hold pins and chalk. Regulars at Sartoria include Welsh & Jefferies Managing Director Malcolm Plews – one of the greatest cutters of his generation – who likes to order the antipasti menu from a table at the bar that offers an eagle’s eye view of his competitors on the Row. Sartoria 20, Savile Row London W1S 3PR Lunch served Monday to Friday 12-15h Bar menu served Monday to Friday 12-1h Reservations: +44 (0)207 534 7000 www.sartoriabar.co.uk Nobu Berkeley The legendary Nobu Matsuhisa is revered worldwide for his new Japanese cuisine and first conquered London with Nobu on the 1st floor of Christina Ong’s Park Lane hotel, The Metropolitan. Within six months of opening Nobu Berkeley in 2006, the restaurant earned its first Michelin Star. Whereas Nobu Metropolitan is stark and ascetic, David Collins’ designs for Nobu Berkeley are lush and sinuous with eau de nil leather banquettes that curve like the road to

Monte Carlo, silver columns and wrought iron chandeliers reminiscent of a petrified forest. The 200-seater space combines Deco decadence with immense charm. All of Nobu’s signature dishes are present and correct (not least the now cliched blackened cod) but executive chef Mark Edwards also presents dishes such as roast whole poussin with jalapeno, ponzu butter and yuzu lemon garlic cooked in a Japanese wood-burning stove.

Sushi and sashimi from Nobu is arguably the finest you’ll taste in London, but more creative dishes such as shiitake mushroom salad, king crab claw tempura and tuna tataki with ponzu are not to be passed over in favour of the raw material menu. Somewhat eccentrically for London, Nobu Berkeley does not take reservations, except for tables of six or more. The Hibachi table seats 12.

Nobu Berkeley 15, Berkeley Street London W1J 8DY Dinner served Monday to Wednesday 18-23h, Thursday to Saturday 18h-midnight and Sunday18-21h15 Reservations: +44 (0)207 290 9222 www.noburestaurants.com James Sherwood

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PIONEER SPIRIT

THE GODFATHER OF ‘THE ROW’ Angus Cundey, Chairman of Savile Row founders Henry Poole & Co, talks to Bespoken’s James Sherwood about British craft, British cloth and the future of the Row.

© Henry Poole & Co

INTERVIEW

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Angus Cundey, Owner and Chairman of Henry Poole & Co

ngus Cundey’s knowledge of Savile Row history is encyclopaedic, while the vaults at N° 15 record more than two centuries of illustrious names who have shaped world history: Emperor Napoleon III, Lord Cardigan (of Light Brigade fame), King Edward VII, Buffalo Bill, Charles Dickens, Benjamin Disraeli, Charles de Gaulle, Emperor Hirohito and Winston Churchill. A new customer at Poole’s will find walls ablaze with more than 40 Royal Warrants and a ceremonial department that still tailors liveries for Her Majesty the Queen.

Innovations that have emerged from Poole’s workrooms include the blueprint for white tie (Poole’s New Style Court Dress) commissioned by Queen Victoria in 1839 and the dinner jacket, first tailored for the Prince of Wales in 1860.

As Angus Cundey delights in repeating: ‘Poole leads and others follow.’ Cundey is the sixth generation to run his family’s firm with his son, Simon, now the managing director, which brings the grand total to seven. An exclusive meeting, with an exclusive gentleman.

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Bespoken : It would be fair to say that a pride in English craftsmanship has returned to the Row after many years of Italian tailoring and cloth dominating men’s fashion. Would you agree?

Angus Cundey: I am hugely encouraged to see British cloth back at the forefront of international tailoring. Perhaps it was the case that the Italians flooded the market so it has become more exclusive to choose cloths woven in Britain when you’re ordering a bespoke suit. It’s equally good news that the British mills seem to be selling an awful lot more abroad than they did.

Why are British mills so much in demand?

A lot of them – Scabal-owned Bower Roebuck included – will sell us cut lengths, but also sell us cloth by the piece (60 metres). This kind of ‘ limited edition’, if you like, obviously makes the cloths more desirable and helps small tailors like ourselves.

Henry Poole & Co has become famous for commissioning exclusive cloths, such as last year’s Churchill chalk stripe. Has it sold out?

I think we had two or three lengths left, but one of our customers has reserved two lengths for each of his sons when they come of age.

Does this kind of continuity protect bespoke tailors from harsh economic climates?

Fortunately, Poole’s has the benefit of hindsight. In fact, I looked up our accounts for 1929-1930 and was heartened to see that we turned a profit even after the Wall Street Crash and The Great Depression.

When we first went to America this year, we were in New York the week that Congress couldn’t make up its mind

whether to bail out the banks or not. Our orders dropped. We have since returned and have recovered. During a recession, a chap looks for a suit that is going to last for a long time, look elegant, and help him keep his job or find a new one.

Are new customers still arriving at N° 15 Savile Row? My head cutter Philip tells me we’re writingup an average of four bespoke orders per day. There was an amusing story a few weeks ago about a prominent American banker who appeared at Poole’s. He declared: ‘I don’t want to see you guys go under, so, though I don’t need a new suit, I’ll order one.’ Somewhat ironically, it was reported a week later that his was one of the banks bailed out by the US government.

It must have been rather annoying for the founders of Savile Row to watch a new generation such as Ozwald Boateng, Richard James and Timothy Everest arrive in the 1990s, claiming to be the saviours of bespoke tailoring?

It used to make my blood boil when the younger generation was quoted as saying they would ‘reinvent’ Savile Row. That made me go absolutely berserk, because we didn’t need ‘reinventing’. But I take my hat off to Richard James and Ozwald Boateng for coming round to our way of thinking and championing bespoke tailoring. It also amuses me to see Lanvin Homme open across the street from Henry Poole.

Why? It’s where my father sent me to train in Paris.

Do tell the story, please.

When I came of age the last thing my father wanted was to encourage me to come into the family business. It was my headmaster at the time who sat me down and talked some sense into me. ‘Now Cundey,’ he said, ‘have

‘I take my hat off to Richard James and Ozwald Boateng for coming round to our way of thinking and championing bespoke tailoring’

© Henry Poole & Co

© Henry Poole & Co

By the time my father was in hospital, I remember visiting him and saying ‘Father, I’m moving the company back to Savile Row.’ I got the most enormous smile - three days later, he died.

Henry Poole’s new showroom

you ever considered your wonderful family business? Henry Poole is the most famous tailor in the world.’ I had never heard of anyone speaking in those terms about the firm. When I got home from the holidays, I’d thought about my future and said ‘Dad, would there be a place for me at Henry Poole?’ My father’s face lit up, he said ‘Yes!’, and that’s how I came into the business.

He sent you to Paris for an apprenticeship with Lanvin, not to the Henry Poole & Co shop?

No, Poole’s in Paris closed after the Second World War. I learned my trade as a tailor working for Lanvin on the fourth floor in the workshops. I think they paid me a pound a week.

There is a story that Henry Poole moved to Cork Street in the 1960s to get even further away from the ‘swinging’

boutiques of Carnaby Street…

Totally untrue I’m afraid. We had to leave Savile Row when the old Henry Poole shop was demolished to make way for a car park.

It was a scandal!

Incredible to think that this was a building where Napoleon III, Edward V, Charles Dickens and Prime Minister Disraeli would visit the eponymous owner and enjoy his brandy and cigars.

Poole was a gentleman tailor and a great man about town…

I don’t think my father recovered after taking Poole’s off the Row. Was it your ambition to bring Poole’s back?

Always. In 1981, N° 15 Savile Row was up for grabs because (London Couturier) Hardy Amies had been involved in a licensing deal that went pear-shaped and had to retract.

Savile Row is like a family, yes? There are unsuitable marriages, bitter divorces, feuds and love affairs but one thing holds the street together: the craft of bespoke tailoring that has been practised for more than 200 years. That doesn’t change, surely?

No, but when you’ve been around as long as Henry Poole, it is inevitable that you compare yourself with previous generations.

My grandfather must have been a very wealthy man by today’s standards. He was turning out 12,000 bespoke suits and liveries a year. He employed 300 people. In 1985, we were doing about 2,500 bespoke suits.

Today, it’s closer to 1,500.

But bespoke is enjoying a great renaissance despite – or because of – the Row’s notorious discretion. It’s not that the wealthy have stopped spending money during a recession; it’s that they are not seen to spend it.

That’s where Savile Row fits into the mood of the moment. You’ve dressed generations of Morgans, Vanderbilts and Rothschilds but you’ve never advertised the fact, no?

The kind of man we like? His bonus is a million pounds, so he doesn’t quibble over £10,000 for four suits. But if I boasted to the press that he was a customer, I would lose him instantly. Makes it difficult. The first thing tailors are asked is ‘Whom do you dress?’ The press think I’m being absurd when I reply: ‘I’m like a doctor.

I cannot divulge.’

James Sherwood Bespoken

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SPRING-SUMMER 2009 TRENDS

TRADITION & MODERNITY The comfort of the old, the thrill of the new...

Scabal’s Spring-Summer 2009 Collection embraces both.

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radition or modernity?

Maybe there is no contradiction between the two, just the one complementing the other.

Scabal combines traditional natural cloths of the highest quality with state-of-the-art craftsmanship.

Suit, (left and right pages) ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702281

Suit, ‘Pure Linen’, ref. 800926

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inimalistic? Cool?

Yes, somewhat.

But strongly contemporary and very relaxed.

Jacket & cloth, ‘Trend’, ref. 801116

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702284

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en have always dreamed of the sea.

It is a place for reflection. It is also a perfect occasion to wear cool cottons, luxurious linen blends, whites, lights and blues.

Comfort is the key, with casual elegance. Far removed from the distractions of shore…

Suit, ‘Acapulco’, ref. 851849 Jacket on hanger, ‘Acapulco’, ref. 851848

Suit, ‘Acapulco’, ref. 851841

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702282

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lack, white and grey return this summer, with subtle shades, in discreet patterns and timeless style.

Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702284

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Suit, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702281

ené Magritte began painting almost 100 years ago. But could surrealism be described as traditional? As with clothing, quality is essential.

Jacket, ‘Acapulco’, ref. 851848 Trousers, ‘Pure Linen’, ref. 800926

Jacket, ‘Acapulco’, ref. 851853 Trousers, ‘Cashmere Cotton’, ref. 500446 Jacket on hanger, ‘Acapulco’, ref. 851852

Fabric, ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702284

Text: Nigel Bishop Photographs: David Hughes

Stylish accessories

Scabal’s Spring and Summer must-haves

“There is a man inside every shirt.” – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe Linen shirt from the Spring – Summer 2009 Collection

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“Accessories should, to my way of thinking, be more about style than fashion, and have a sophisticated, timeless quality, rather than be slaves to transient trends.” – Giorgio Armani From left to right: Genuine deerskin belt from the Kemer Collection, silk ties from the Sorento Collection

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“The butterfly knot is a gracious accessory, which gives its wearer an immediate attitude.” – Alexis Mabille Silk tie, bow tie and scarf from the Oxford Collection

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CNI_A

“A well-knotted tie is the first serious step in your life.” – Oscar Wilde Left: Bristol silk tie. Middle and right: Dover silk and linen ties Photographer: Fotostudio Uyttebroeck Production: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski 52

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Made-to-measure world

Bespoke yachts bring new meaning to luxury While fast cars, made-to-measure suits and hand-made watches are symbolic of the good life, custom-designed yachts are heaven on earth (or sea).

Š Sargentini

Š Toni Meneguzzo

A terrace on the sea with cushions by Wally

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‘Clients come to us very well informed about their vision. They know exactly what they want and what is possible. They do not want “off the shelf”’

© Toni Meneguzzo

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he term ‘luxury yacht’ refers to a very expensive privately owned and professionally crewed vessel.

Also known as the ‘Super Yacht’, it can be either sail or motor propelled, and is typically defined as being more than 30 metres (98 feet) in length, though the trend nowadays stretches more towards 45-91.5m (150-300ft). Where pools or multiple staterooms used to be the pinnacle of luxury on these floating resorts, today’s mega-yachts are reaching unfathomable levels of opulence and innovation, with multiple decks and rotating masts to climate-controlled humidors and cinemas, gyms, discos, helipads and floating supply boats. The architects of such craft are highly sought after – unsurpassed style is the ultimate goal for the world’s wealthy.

GREAT CLIENTS – GREAT PROJECTS Ward Setzer, marine architect and founder of the US award-winning design firm Setzer Design Group, says that clients are more savvy than ever and push designers to the limit.

“Clients come to us very well informed about their vision,” says Setzer. “They know exactly what they want and what is possible. They do not want ‘off the shelf ’”.

At one time the reserve of blue blood and business dynasties, mega-yacht owners today embrace many disciplines

(business, sports, royalty) and nationalities. Wally Yachts, based in Monaco, is considered to be one of the world’s premier yacht designers and manufacturers, noted for their sleek, minimalist design, power and comfort – their Who’s Who client list includes King of Spain Juan Carlos I, Pirelli President Marco Tronchetti Provera and Lindsay Owen-Jones, former chairman of L’Oreal.

Setzer’s clients are both manufacturers and individuals and also hail from further afield. He is currently designing yachts for private clients in Norway, China, the U.S. and Europe and in the process of working with a Dubai based family who has contracted Setzer to design a 65m (210ft) sister ship to Brazen Sea, the modern flagship of the firm’s new futuristic and highly praised Vision Line range of ‘super yachts’.

HEART’S DESIRES The finished product will feature six decks with multiple guest cabins and VIP staterooms, a fair-weather master suite on the upper-most deck, and a foul-weather master suite below. The 24-member crew will be housed in 16 cabins with large service spaces, such as a professional laundry, three galley (kitchen) spaces, and walk-in refrigerators and freezers. There will be a garage with space for two 8m vessels, and several jet skis. The infinity pool on the rear deck, a private owner’s pool on the top deck, and a state-ofthe-art sound system round out the impressive list of accoutrements.

“What was once considered wacky or ‘out there’ is now the norm,” laughs Setzer.

“Nothing surprises me anymore.”

It’s easy to ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the bells and whistles that seem implausible on a boat, but the melding of form and function is a serious business, and the designers must meet exacting standards, to match both performance and clients’ styling demands.

“There is a lot of interdependency among the various systems on board. These yachts need to be self–sufficient entities,” Setzer explains. “We [designers] are usually the first in and the last out on a project, and first and foremost we need to design a seaworthy vessel.”

MADE-TO-MEASURE Marine architects are often working on dozens of projects at once and the time between the conception and christening of a yacht depends on the size and scope of the project. Designers agree that two years is the average for yachts measuring around 30m (98ft) but larger vessels require more time and can take up to four years, including the design cycle, which starts with an in-depth understanding of the clients desires and needs. The design team include the architect as well as engineers, computer technicians and experts in areas such acoustics, insulation, air conditioning heating, electrical, hydraulics and so forth.

Preliminary sketches and layouts are created and refined, and the use of 3D modeling technology provides instant feedback for clients. Hull form designs, performance studies and tank testing, as well as complicated electrical and Bespoken

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“I have created yachts with 14 different types of crown mouldings and seen woodwork that cost $4 million alone,” Setzer emphasizes. “We’ll go as extravagant as the client wishes to go.”

Ken Freivokh and his team of designers are no strangers to the task of designing dream yachts. His firm is known for its innovative design and ‘out of the box’ solutions and for The Maltese Falcon, the ship that launched a thousand awards for this UK-based company. While Freivokh says it was, to date, his greatest accomplishment, the design also presented a most unusual request. The 88m (289ft) yacht is like nothing on the water today – the revolutionary sailing system, referred to as the Dyna Rigg, set a new milestone in yachting history with

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Built by Perini Navi Yildiz Gemi shipyard in Tuzla (near Istanbul) Turkey, The Maltese Falcon was built for Tom Perkins, an American business magnate, and is currently considered the largest and fastest personal sailing yacht in the world. The Maltese Falcon has two 1800 horse-power Deutz engines running at 1800rpm, a top speed of 20 knots, with minimal wave-making and virtually no vibration or noise.

SHIPBUILDING TRADITIONS Though shipbuilding is centuries old, technology such as is found on The Maltese Falcon plays a key role in meeting the ever-pressing demands of professional sailors and pleasure cruisers. Royal Huisman Yachts in Holland is heralded by world-class sailors and yachtsmen alike as bestin-class when it comes to quality and performance. The family-run business began building wooden boats in Vollenhove, Holland, in 1884 – the primary requirement then was

Homage The founder of Scabal had a passion for boats and possessed his own yacht (see above).

strength and seaworthiness, to cope with the unforgiving conditions of northern European seas.

That tradition has not been forgotten and innovation has been seamlessly integrated into the process.

The Royal Huisman shipyard has brought lightweight components such as interiors made from foamcored structures and aluminium superstructure hulls to an art form.

Constant demand for distinguishing features is not lost on Royal Huisman and their creative teams offer clever additions to clients, such as a crow’s nest, which can be hosted to the top of a 60-metre carbon-fibre mast. The company’s vertically integrated model and in-house disciplines strengthen the yard’s reputation. More than

Interior of The Maltese Falcon

© Sargentini

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“The Maltese Falcon, with its unusual Dyna Rigg masts, would have looked like a Chinese Junk if handled poorly,” he quipped.

© Sargentini

© C. Levêcque

Ken Freivokh, yacht designer

three rotating masts able to store 15 square sails (five per mast), that can fully unfurl into tracks in six minutes for a total sail area of 2,400 square metres (25,791 square feet).

© Scabal

mechanical system schematics are part of the process, as is the interior architectural detailing, wood and stonework and fixtures. The marine architect also works directly with a shipyard to schedule the build, the best of which are found in the Netherlands, Germany, Turkey, Italy, Australia and the UK, and provides construction documents as well as on-site inspections and reviews. In most cases, the client brings in their own interior decorator to select custom materials, furnishing, and fabrics that can exceed hundreds of euros per yard.

© Tom Nitsch & Hans Wessterink

‘Building a private yacht is a longterm relationship; it’s more than a business’

Royal Huisman’s sumptuous chambers

400 skilled employees work in a comprehensive 30,000 square metre facility that houses computer aided design rooms, machine and plasma shops, a paint hall and metal working hall and the company’s offices. “To have a client understand this business we show him everything about our company,” said Alice Huisman, managing director and fourth- generation family member. “Building a private yacht is a long-term relationship; it’s more than a business. We show the client we have the best people, that we invest in constant training programs, and we keep our team at the forefront of new developments… we believe in ourselves and we remain focused on our craft.”

SHADOW YACHT: THE ULTIMATE ACCESSORY If it appears that mega-yacht creativity and spending couldn’t grow any more monumental, fear not, as a new jawdropping mega-yacht accessory has emerged: the shadow yacht. This is a trailing vessel that follows the main yacht and acts as a garage for the owner’s collection of helicopters, cars, motorcycles, motorboats and other ‘necessities’. The boats can also carry fuel, spare parts and supplies allowing for long-haul trips and remote travel.

Shadow Marine of Ft. Lauderdale, Fla. USA, is the main builder, and

they’ve sold two to date, at a price tag of $35 million each, to Middle East clients. The company recently released a new model called Allure, a 61m (200ft) vamped-up shadow yacht that replaced the former warehouse hangar decor with plusher surroundings including six staterooms, a pool, sky lounge, theater, games room and mini-gym. The yachts can also accommodate up to 500 people. “We are constantly striving to create new applications for our unique concept of what a mega-yacht should be. Our goal is to provide our clients with the ultimate yachting experience, without limitations,” says Shadow Marine.

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT Such luxury and innovation doesn’t come cheap and pricing for a customdesigned yacht depends on the size and scope of the project. The dollars are in the details, says Setzer, who estimates that $1 million per metre is not far off the mark for a completed yacht, and Freivokh estimates an interior design

and styling cost of somewhere between 2.5 and 5 per cent of the project value.

But really, they say, the sky’s the limit.

And spending doesn’t stop once the boat is christened (with high-quality champagne, no doubt).

These private palaces require full time crews of anywhere from 6 to 24 salaried staff, and estimated operating costs start at around $1.5 million per year for a 45-metre/150-feet yacht, when taking into account fuel, dockage, maintenance, and insurance. “Building Utopia is not an easy task, nor is it cheap,” says Setzer.

For creative billionaires and designers willing to accommodate them, these mega-yachts are the ultimate status symbol, blending unparalleled personal expression with top-notch performance. It’s the ultimate madeto-order embellishment for anyone limited only by their imagination.

Kimberley Lovato Bespoken

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THE BESPOKE COACH

Keeping up seaside appearances Karl Lagerfeld once said that he felt more comfortable sitting on the beach in the shade of a parasol wearing shirt and tie and hand-tailored suit than the “poor people who sit in their swimming trunks in the sun”.

This may seem a strange idea, but is in fact perfectly normal for classic-dress lovers, says our Bespoke Coach, Bernhard Roetzel...

© Scabal

Gentlemen’s seaside holidays by Scabal ref. 701414

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Today’s gentlemen are inspired by the past, when beachwear was more sophisticated but less comfortable

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here was a time when people dressed up for their holidays instead of dressing down, as seems customary nowadays. Those were the days when gentlemen didn’t rush around the globe in jet planes, but travelled more slowly but in style on trains that resembled luxurious hotels.

According to the time needed to reach destinations, the number of days spent there was greater. People didn’t stay for a fortnight but rather a month or two when they needed a rest.

DRESSING FOR THE HOLIDAYS Consequently, the wardrobe needed was much larger. In a German book on menswear published in 1913, the list of garments needed for a holiday in Nice includes evening tailcoat, cutaway, frock coat, sport coats (“one cannot take too many” ) and several overcoats. In addition, a large number of shirts, ties, pyjamas, sportswear, hats and gloves were taken – the modern gentleman will carry fewer

clothes with him but nevertheless the sophisticated holidaymaker will need more than a pair of shorts and a couple of T-shirts.

If we assume that a summer holiday is likely to be spent in the sun somewhere at the seaside or on board a ship or yacht, we will need at least one formal outfit. It depends on the setting as to whether a dinner jacket or navy blazer is necessary, but if parties are to be expected, a dinner jacket should form part of the holiday wardrobe. Black or midnight blue would be perfectly acceptable colours but of course white (or rather, off-white) is also an excellent choice. The rules say that if it is worn onboard ships and under the open sky, thus it should also be chosen for cruises and garden parties.

Nevertheless, one can wear a white dinner jacket on other occasions as well.

A navy blazer could be chosen instead of the evening suit, if there is no need for very formal clothes. The beauty of the blazer lies in its versatility. It can be paired with white linen trousers,

pink cotton slacks or dark grey tropical worsted. The Duke of Windsor even had matching trousers made for his

Dress shirts are a gentleman’s everyday companion and, even when on holiday, he refuses to wear a T-shirt navy blazer, thus creating a mixture of a lounge suit and an odd jacket plus trousers. If the navy blazer seems a bit overdone, one may opt instead for a sports jacket – a linen and silk blend would be just right for warmer climes.

If the suit must be part of a holiday wardrobe, the most classic and elegant choice of material is silk. It has been part of Riviera chic since the 1920s and there is nothing that compares to a silk suit for relaxed formality and easy elegance. Cream, brown or blue would be colours that suit the sky, the sea and the sand of the beaches.

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© Scabal

Never forget your Scabal navy blazer!

Dress shirts are a gentleman’s everyday companion and, even when on holiday, he refuses to wear a T-shirt even though the Duke of Windsor used to wear them as early as in the 1930s when he stayed in the South of France. Nevertheless, there are stylish alternatives, such as the cotton piqué shirt in white, navy, pink or bottle green. Similar in cut but slightly more refined are knitted shirts of fine Merino wool or silk. They come in more subdued colours than their cotton counterparts because they were never intended for sport. A gentleman never wears short sleeves in the office but at the seaside they have been perfectly acceptable since the 1920s.

Even the Prince of Wales has been seen in them on informal occasions, such as visits to the Spanish Royal family.

SHORT TERMS Shorts have never been part of a formal wardrobe, but they have become a holiday classic for casual day wear.

Most modern gentlemen will choose a 60

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relaxed yet still refined style matching white linen shorts with loafers of soft suede leather. Some men like to add a preppy touch by wearing knee-length socks and welted shoes with their Bermuda shorts – others may even top this off with a blazer or sports jacket.

The international dress code does not acknowledge this match, however, because shorts are strictly reserved for casual wear, thus no hybrid matches are acceptable – and never forget that the Italians are very strict in matters of dress. Shorts are not considered suitable off the beach in their country, so take care to don at least a pair of well-pressed cotton chinos. But why not show a heightened sense of quality and style by having your shorts made by your tailor?

Normally, even devotees of classic tailoring will not have their swimming trunks and robes individually made for them. Rather, they will choose something in plain colours such as navy, bottle-green or red or with fancy patterns. A Madras plaid would be considered as suitable and, of course, rococo patterns are okay at the beach.

Swimming trunks should be cut like boxer shorts – any shape that reveals too much is not desirable for a gentleman.

GET AHEAD The hat has become ever more popular in recent years following a decline for several decades since the late 1960s.

The summer holiday is a perfect occasion for headwear, because we are exposed to the sun more than at any other time in the year. A genuine Panama is a very stylish choice and the current fashion for hats will tempt even younger men to elegantly protect their heads. Baseball caps should be reserved for very informal occasions, although even members of certain royal

Swimming trunks should be cut like boxershorts - any shape that reveals too much is not desirable for a gentleman families wear them today.

Shoes can be a serious problem for lovers of classic dress on holiday.

Flip-flops may be comfortable and right for the beach but no selfrespecting gentleman would want to be seen in a pair of them anywhere else. Espadrilles are a more stylish and continental alternative, although their fit cannot satisfy feet used to the comfort of welted shoes. Boat shoes seem to be the choice for most men and it is probably hard to find a gentleman who does not own a pair.

Yet these shoes are fairly casual and don’t look right with a suit or even a navy blazer.

Fortunately the range of welted shoes includes some summer classics. The most flamboyant is the two-tone spectator in black and white or brown and white. For those who perhaps find these a bit too much, a classic Oxford with linen uppers and leather toe caps in a light brown or cream might be more wearable. If worn with socks of lightest wool or silk these will be comfortable and stylish at the same time.

You see? Keeping up appearances at the seaside can be so easy…

Bernhard Roetzel

Interview

Ben Ainslie: A modern British sailor

© Richard Langdon

Last Autumn, Bespoken invited the famous English sailor to come to Scabal’s Savile Row flagship store to order a made-to-measure suit.

Ben Ainslie: England’s pride and joy

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While for the vast majority of us who were just watching the games on TV, the event was exciting enough, the athletes taking part were putting their reputations on the line. All their years of training and effort spent hoping to achieve what would be, for them, the ultimate sporting prize.

For some, their goal was achieved – unless you are that individual or team and have a personal understanding and appreciation of what it takes to win an Olympic Gold medal, it is a victory beyond imagination.

Many stories of individual endeavour to reach the Games became apparent as we watched and, while for some this was their first success, for others it was a continuation of previous triumphs from preceding Olympics. One such story was that of the British sailor, Ben Ainslie.

PASSION AND DETERMINATION Born in 1977 in the north of England but raised in Cornwall, a region noted for its dramatic and picturesque coastline, Ben seemed destined to be a sailor from an early age.

He began sailing aged eight and under the considerable influence of his father Roddy – an established sailor who had skippered the crew of Second Life in the first-ever Whitbread Round the World Race of 1973-4 – he consequently perfected his technique and skill to become world champion in the Laser Radial boat class aged just 16.

This success was to continue when he achieved his first Olympic medal – silver in the 1996 Atlantic Games 62

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© S. Papandropoulos

n August of 2008, the world watched as Beijing presented and staged the most elaborate and arguably the best Olympic and Paralympic Games in history. From its organization, the beautiful architecture that made up its venues, the enthusiasm of the audiences and the opening and closing ceremonies, Beijing’s showmanship was there for everyone to see.

Ben at work

in the Laser Class. However, this was only the beginning – while his numerous European and world titles are truly impressive, for most the ultimate sporting arena is the Olympic Games, and winning a gold medal there is what distinguishes the real champions. He achieved this in 2000 in Sydney when, after racing as part of the crew for the One World Challenge America’s Cup campaign, he succeeded in the Laser Class competition and was able to wear, for the first time, an Olympic gold medal.

Ben seemed destined to be a sailor from an early age NEW FOCUS Needing a new focus, Ainslie now concentrated on the Finn Class of boat, which required a totally new approach because of the larger vessel size and the need to increase his body weight considerably to maximize his potential racing capability. A gruelling training regime followed, but this was suitably rewarded as he continued his successes by dominating all before him in the Finn World Championships – first winning in 2002 and then going on to retain the title for a further three consecutive years, thus making him the most

Ben Ainslie at Scabal’s Savile Row store

successful Finn Class sailor.

The world-title domination was then complemented by Ben taking yet another gold medal in the 2004 Olympic Games in Athens.

As before, Ben returned to team sailing and as part of the Emirates Team New Zealand America’s Cup Challenge crew, lost out the defending champions, the Swiss syndicate Team Alinghi.

However, his involvement in what is seen as the ultimate in team race sailing has continued and, as skipper of Team Origin, he will lead the British challenge for the 33rd America’s Cup race in 2009, hoping to bring the prize to Great Britain for the very first time.

While The America’s Cup Challenge represents unfinished business to Ben in terms of still being there to be won, his desire to achieve a third gold medal at the Beijing Olympics was realized in the Finn Class of boat.

It is hard for us mere mortals to comprehend winning one gold medal, never mind three plus a silver. But it is arguably even more impressive that Ben has done it over a period of just twelve years. To be dominant in one Games is reward enough for all those hours of training and sacrifice, but to maintain this level of excellence and dedication over such a period of time takes someone truly special.

© S. Papandropoulos

‘I am very impressed, it is a smart showroom in a great location’

Ben with Scabal’s Ricky Sahota

BEN’S CHOICES Suit — Ben chose a silk and wool fabric from the Sleek collection, reference 750981, mid/light grey. Scabal made it in a one-button peak lapel style with flat front trousers.

The Sleek collection offers cool-smooth comfort in the summer, combined with an exceptional elegant look. The range is divided into two parts with different proportions of silk, for a variety of occasions. Both parts include comprehensive plains and delicate stripes in urban grey,

anthracite, beige and blue shades. The slight sheen and the finely structured grounds give the collection a luxurious and unique elegance.

Watch — During our meeting with Ben, we were impressed by the wonderful watch he wears: The Admiral’s Cup Tides

by Corum. He confided to us that this Swiss watch brand and he go back quite a way - the company was his first ever sponsor, making him the proud owner of a Corum watch, when he began his professional sailing career at the age of 17.

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INTERVIEW Bespoken : You recently won your third gold medal at the Beijing Olympics, how did it feel in comparison to the previous two?

Ben Ainslie: It actually felt the best in a way because the final race of the series was held in superb sailing conditions and to be able to win the gold medal and the race in that way was just fantastic.

What is it like to hear your national anthem being played at the medal ceremony?

A huge sense of pride and a huge sense of relief as you work so hard for something and your expectations are so high. Obviously you are very proud to be representing Great Britain when the Union Jack is going up the flagpole.

Britain has, throughout history, had a strong relationship with sailing and the sea – do you think this has had a bearing on why it has a reputation for producing good sailors?

I think that when you look back through history at people such as Sir Francis Drake and Nelson, and then Sir Francis Chichester, Sir Robin Knox-Johnston and Dame Ellen MacArthur, we have reason to be a very proud nation.

It was a particularly successful Olympics for the British team – did you get the opportunity, while you were in China, to share in the celebrations with the other British competitors?

Yes, after finishing racing I went to Beijing and met up with the team at the closing ceremony and joined in with the fantastic atmosphere. One of the most positive things was that we were already talking about the next Olympics!

The 2012 Olympics will take place in Great Britain. Have you committed to taking part and, if so, how much will it mean to be competing in your own country?

Yes, the intention is to compete in the Finn Class in 2012. It will be a once-ina-lifetime opportunity to compete in the Olympics on your own soil – it will be extra special for sure.

From an early age you seemed destined to be a sailor; do you think there is anything different in your psyche that makes you more successful than others?

A lot of determination, which you need in sport and life in general. It’s not always an 64

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easy ride so being determined as to where I wanted to go was important, plus I have always had a clear vision as to what I want to achieve. Having goals has helped me along the way.

Being physically fit must be paramount. Do you have a tailor-made training regime that you follow?

Yes, I have a physiologist who puts together a programme for the British sailing team and then I work with personal trainers. It results in being about 20 hours a week in the gym and then three to five hours of sailing practice, six days per week. It’s a very time-intensive sport.

How important is the psychological aspect of your preparations, both before and during competition – do you have a specific person to whom you can turn?

No, I have never really worked with a psychologist but with the more experience I get I understand how the aspect of psychology affects everything you do but sub-consciously I feel that I have been doing the necessary mental routines already. I guess at the moment my attitude because of my success is “ if it’s not broke, don’t fix it”.

How do you feel when you lose a race – does it make you more determined to change the outcome the next time?

It hurts. I deal with it better than I used to when I was younger, but it always hurts when you are a competitive person. I am a bad loser inside but I am much better externally with dealing it.

Is there any person you look to for inspiration?

Yes, a number of people. My coaches, and my father has always been a great person to turn to for support and in terms of sailing, Russell Coutts, who has achieved a huge amount in the sport.

In the future, could you see yourself, because of your own experiences, in the role of a mentor to up-and-coming sailing talent?

I think so, as when I was younger I looked up to older guys to try and learn from what they did and their experiences. When I look at Sir Steve Redgrave working in the role for the British Olympic Committee, perhaps when I am finished then that will be something that I could help with.

You will be the skipper of Team Origin, the British entry in the forthcoming America’s Cup Challenge

race. As a sailor, would winning this be the ultimate honour?

On an individual basis, the Olympics is the ultimate achievement but from a team point of view, it’s sailing in The America’s Cup. So for me, winning both would be the ultimate and I feel I would have achieved everything.

Away from racing, what do you do to relax?

I love playing golf but I don’t play enough, so I am really rubbish, but it is something that I really enjoy when I have the time.

I enjoy reading books, watching movies, catching up with friends and family and just being at home – I spend about 80 per cent of the year away from home.

If you were not a sailor, what do you think you would have liked to have been?

I would have loved to have been a racing car driver – formula one.

What words would you use to describe yourself?

Passionate, determined, private.

Visiting Scabal, what are your impressions?

Very impressed, it is a smart showroom in a great location. Looking through the fabric ranges there is a huge variety – it is quite astonishing to see the detailing that’s possible in the suits. I was surprised that it was a far less intensive process than I thought. The amount of measurements needed were fewer than I thought and I really look forward to the end result as it will be a much better-fitting and quality suit than normal for me. Sportsmenn, because of their physique, can find it difficult to wear a suit well.

The coming months and years look busy for Ben, with The America’s Cup plus the 2012 Olympics high on his agenda of new goals. The necessity for planning, preparation and practice are key elements to his future success and, while his current curriculum vitae would be enough for most, it is obvious that he has his mind on even greater achievements.

His success has been recognised by the Queen of England, who awarded him an MBE and OBE. Perhaps, in the future, he will be known as Sir Ben Ainslie – a modern British sailor.

Stephen Papandropoulos

THE GOURMET PLACE

Seafront selection To be found in some of the world’s most beautiful harbours and marinas, these five culinary gems are worth setting sail for.

Cipriani

Rhodes Mezzanine Grosvenor House Hotel West Marina Beach Dubai United Arab Emirates T. +971 4 399 8888 www.grosvenorhouse-dubai.com

Quay When the biggest names in fashion, entertainment and business want to forego meals prepared on their yachts anchored in the turquoise waters of the Porto Cervo Marina and head to dry land, they go to Cipriani. The candle-lit, three-level restaurant is part of one of the Mediterranean’s most exclusive private summer clubs, The Billionaire, and offers exquisite cuisine from its perched location over the Gulf of Pevero.

Cipriani Via Rocce Sul Pevero Localita’Golfo Pero 07020 Porto Cervo, Sardinia, Italy T. +39 0789 94192 www.cipriani.com

Rhodes Mezzanine

The Showroom 10 Hospital Street, Harbour Edge, Green Point Cape Town, South Africa T. +27 (21) 421 4682 www.theshowroomrestaurant.co.za

Voya

Named Restaurant of the Year by both the Sydney Morning Herald 2009 Good Food Guide Awards and the Australian Gourmet Traveller 2009 Restaurant Guide Awards, Quay and Chef Peter Gilmore have earned a nationwide reputation that is sizzling hot!

If the views over Darling Harbour and the celebrated Opera House don’t have you singing your own aria, the creative menu and alchemistic flavour pairings will.

Quay Overseas Passenger Terminal The Rocks, Sydney 2000, Australia T. +61 2 9251 5600 www.quay.com.au

The Showroom

This 45-story neon tower overlooking the exclusive Dubai Marina is a fixture on the desert social scene, and houses a similarly dazzling culinary oasis. Michelin-star chef Gary Rhodes’s restaurant, with its cool white spaces and richly upholstered jeweltoned chairs, has become one of the most renowned eateries in Dubai, and is the place on the water for discerning diners to enjoy masterfully created, delicious works of art.

to his own showroom. Only a few minutes from the popular Victoria & Alfred Waterfront harbour, its trendy chef dishes out witty barbs to clients from the open kitchen, and serve up exquisite meals using the finest ingredients with international flair.

Allow your senses to be taken on a journey at Voya, (from the word voyage), at Vancouver’s Coal Harbour. Chef MarcAndré Choquette combines his classical training as a French-Asian cuisine specialist and his exalted work at the award-winning Lumière restaurant to create a variety of tantalizing dishes served in a glamorous room reminiscent of a sophisticated 1940s eatery.

Voya Loden Hotel 1177 Melville Street Vancouver, B.C. Canada T. +1 877 225 6336 www.lodenvancouver.com

Once the chef at the Cape Grace Hotel’s acclaimed One Waterfront restaurant, Bruce Robertson has brought his playful attitude and passion for creative cuisine

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AGENDA

Regatta round-up Whether you sail the seven seas with the best, or simply like to sit back and watch the action, regattas are a time-honoured tradition, many of which have been around more than a hundred years. Set course for one of these illustrious events and be a part of maritime merriment. © Jacques Vapillon/DIMC

Maktoum Sailing Trophy, Dubai

Maktoum Sailing Trophy 21-29 February 2009, Dubai, United Arab Emirates www.maktoumsailingtrophy.com The prestigious Maktoum Sailing Trophy Regatta is the biggest in the region and consists of ten inshore races and one offshore passage race for individual yachts.

The five-day event attracts some of the world’s leading yachtsmen – perfect for those who love the sun, sea and sport, the Maktoum Sailing Trophy is one to watch.

Henley Royal Regatta 1-5 July 2009, Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, United Kingdom www.hrr.co.uk The Henley Royal Regatta is an annual rowing race held by the town of Henley-onThames, England. It was first held in 1839 and has been held every year since, except during the two World Wars. In 1851, Prince 66

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Albert became the regatta’s first royal patron – since then, the reigning monarch has always been patron, thus preserving the event’s royal title. The regatta includes exciting, head-to-head competitions, raced along a one mile (2,112 metre) course on the River Thames. The most prestigious event at the regatta is the Grand Challenge Cup for Men’s Eights, which has been awarded since the regatta was first staged.

Skandia Cowes Week 1-8 August 2009, Cowes, Isle of Wight, United Kingdom www.skandiacowesweek.co.uk Cowes Week is one of the world’s premier sailing regattas, with almost 1,000 yachts and 8,000 competitors taking part. The event’s rich heritage attracts a wide range of competitors. More than 100,000 spectators watch the sailing each year, to enjoy the parties and unique atmosphere. The festival originates from the Prince Regent’s interest in yachting, which continued after he became

George IV in 1820. One of the most endearing traditions of Cowes Week is the spectacular fireworks display on the final Friday, which has taken place every year since the inaugural event.

Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta 27-29 August 2009, Dartmouth, Devon, United Kingdom www.dartmouthregatta.co.uk The Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta takes place annually over three days at the end of August. The first-recorded Regatta in Dartmouth took place in 1822, with three sailing races and one six-oared gig race followed by a ball at Dartmouth Castle. In 1856, it became a Royal Regatta when bad weather forced an unscheduled visit by Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and the Prince of Wales the day before the scheduled start. The Queen donated £25 and Prince Albert gave £20 to be competed for by the sailors. Before leaving, the Queen bestowed ‘Royal’ on the Regatta. Each year, the organizers write to the

Monarch for Royal Patronage. The patron is now Prince Andrew, Duke of York. The Port of Dartmouth Regatta ranks as one of the best in Britain.

Regates Royales de Cannes 20-27 September 2009, Cannes, France www.regatesroyales.com Every year, the Regates Royales de Cannes, often referred to as the ‘Cowes of the Mediterranean’, attracts more than 150 yachts to the glamorous coast of southern France. Although the first edition of the International Regattas of Cannes unfurled in 1906, it was only at their 20th event that they became royal, in honour of Danish King Christian X’s participation in the event from 1912 to 1947. Abandoned in 1964, the regatta was revived by the Yacht Club of Cannes in 1978.

Phuket King’s Cup Regatta 29 November – 6 December 2009, Phuket, Thailand www.kingscup.com The Phuket King’s Cup Regatta is Asia's biggest and most popular regatta.

Inaugurated in 1987 to celebrate the 60th birthday of His Majesty King Bhumibol of Thailand, the event has been held every year since, always during the first week of December, to celebrate the King's birthday on the 5th. A yachting enthusiast himself, he is also the event’s patron.

Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race Begins 26 December 2009, Sydney, Australia www.rolexsydneyhobart.com Over the past 63 years, the Rolex Sydney Hobart has become an icon of Australian sport, and the 628 nauticalmile course is often described as the most gruelling ocean race in the world, a challenge for all who take part. A dazzling start in Sydney Harbour draws media and spectators to the water as the fleet sails out into the Tasman Sea, down the south-east coast of mainland Australia, across Bass Strait (which divides the mainland from

the island State of Tasmania), then down the east coast of Tasmania. At Tasman Island the fleet turns right into Storm Bay for the final sail up the Derwent River to the historic port city of Hobart.

America’s Cup Dates and locations vary (next race in 2010) www.americascup.com By far the most famous and prestigious regatta and match race in the sport of sailing, and the oldest active trophy in international sport. Historically held every four years, though this has changed in recent times, the event attracts top sailors and yacht designers.

The cup was originally called the Royal Yacht Squadron Cup, but is now named after the first yacht to win the trophy, the schooner America. The trophy remained in the hands of the New York Yacht Club of the United States from 1852 until 1983 when the Cup was won by the challenger, Australia II of Australia, ending the longest winning streak in the history of sport. Although the America’s Cup competition is as much about design technology as it is about sailing boats, superior speed is rarely enough to win a race on its own. The 17 active crew members are at the top of their game and their combined skill is essential to win. Alinghi was the last winner, in 2007.

Newport Bermuda Race Every two years in mid-June (next race 2010) Newport, Rhode Island, USA www.bermudarace.com The Newport Bermuda Race is a 635 nauticalmile race crossing a stretch of the Atlantic Ocean known for challenging weather.

Every two years over 180 boats start from the picturesque seaport of Newport, Rhode Island. The fleet has five divisions to allow seaworthy boats of many sizes and types to be raced for an array of trophies awarded in Bermuda at Government House, the residence of the governor of this tropical island. The first Bermuda Race started in 1906 with just three entries. The race was held several times in the 1900’s and 1920’s but it wasn’t until 1926 that a regular schedule was set. This schedule has continued to the present except for a hiatus

during World War II. The Newport Bermuda Race welcomes first time racers as well as seasoned veterans to participate and over the past 100 years, some 4,500 boats and 46,000 men and women have raced to Bermuda with the spirit of adventure in their sails.

Volvo Ocean Race Every three years, October, varied ports of call (next race 2011) www.volvooceanrace.org The Volvo Ocean Race is an exceptional test of sailing prowess. During the nine months of the 2008-09 race, which started in Alicante, Spain in October 2008 and concludes in St. Petersburg, Russia, during late June 2009, the teams will sail over 37,000 nautical miles in some of the world’s roughest seas via Cape Town, Kochi, Singapore, Qingdao, around Cape Horn to Rio de Janeiro, Boston, Galway, Gothenburg and Stockholm. The seven boats have 11 crew and are pushed to the limits as they race day and night. In 1973, The Whitbread Around The World Race, the longest, most demanding sporting contest the world had known began and the newly named Volvo Ocean Race was run for the first time in 2001-02. It is undeniably the world’s premier global team race.

The Vendée-Globe Challenge Every four years in November (next race 2012), Les Sables D’Olonne, France www.vendeeglobe.org This non-stop, single-handed and unaided sailing race departs every four years from the Vendée port of Les Sables-d’Olonne.

The Vendée-Globe Challenge has been called ‘the Everest of the sea’ – its origins lie in the voyage made by the Canadian, Joshua Slocum, the first of the great single-handed circumnavigators, who sailed the 42,000 kilometres in three years, finishing in 1895. A hundred years later, today’s non-stop sailors accomplish this incredible feat in around three months. The race is open to a maximum of 25 60ft monohulls, and is an arduous test of individual endurance.

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SCABAL ACROSS THE SEAS

Sartoria Caprese in Capri As this edition of Bespoken carries a nautical theme, it seemed logical to present a Scabal client, Roberto Russo, who has a boutique near the sea on the island of Capri. © Sean William

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et’s say you start at the Via Acquaviva in Capri. You pass under the worldfamous clock tower on the Piazza Umberto – the only place in the world known simply as the Piazetta and the most cosy open-sky living room that you could wish for. On you go, under the arc onto the Via Vittorio Emmanuele and left into the Via Camarelle – you have not only passed some of the best shopping streets in the world, you’ve

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The Capri coastline

also walked past 15 of Roberto Russo’s 34 shops. But, as he explains: “They are not all owned by us.”

in the south. From the Via Camarelle it is only a few hundred metres down to the waterfront.

This is including the utterly exclusive Sartoria Caprese and his restaurant Edode, a Greek word that means ‘portion of food’: “All we serve comes from the island. The best quality food it has to offer. The best fish, the best cheese, the best pasta,” Russo claims.

The town of Capri snuggles on the gentle slopes of a hilltop that separates the Marina Grande in the north of Isola di Capri from the Marine Picola

NOT ENOUGH HOURS During my interview with Russo, the financial crisis is still in full swell. “We’ve been growing very quickly and sometimes it’s getting complicated. There should be 48 hours in a day. Maybe it’s better to have just one shop or to go back to the farm to work the land and fish. Or I might run my own ‘albergo’. Perhaps I’ll have to do this in my next life?”

‘We sell strictly tailor-made for men and women, rigorously made by hand’

FAMILY FORTUNES The shop his father owned in 1922 was founded in 1868 and sold food and cloth together. Roberto Russo first built his fashion empire but could not stop himself acquiring, four years ago, a food shop, to sell: “The best ham, the best salami, the best cheese”. Following a lazy walk up from their yacht, his very genteel clients often come to the Sartoria Caprese to see their suit grow under the hands of their tailor – Roberto will then send for a bottle of wine and some mozzarella buffalo from his shop.

Sartoria Caprese is certainly an exclusive boutique. In a cosy atelierlike ambiance, with shaded windows that look out onto the piazzetta and are surrounded by exquisite Italian antiques, those in the know come to meet their tailor. “We sell strictly tailormade for men and women, rigorously made by hand,” says Russo. “This is maybe only 5 per cent of our business, but for us it is very important. Our clients can choose

from the very best fabrics in the world.

Fabrics so light they feel like nothing in the hand. It doesn’t seem like you are wearing them, but at the same time you’re better dressed than you have ever been.

It’s real luxury.”

© U. Daniello

It is hard to believe this comes from a suave and agreeable businessman who is known not only as the ‘Fashion Guru’ and ‘Retail Magnate’ of Capri but also ‘The Lord of Tennis’. Being a Virgo, he certainly has an eye for detail and the Chinese sign of the Dog stands for superb salesmanship, as all Dogs know. He has a love for the fine cloth that Scabal produces running in his veins, as he comes from a family of island weavers, whose looms produced the highest quality silks and wools.

When Russo Senior died much too early in 1983, Roberto inherited his father’s exclusive men’s and women’s fashion shop when he was only 25.

It took him a few years to get into full swing but, once he got started, who was going to stop this tall young man with his bald head, warm dark eyes and engaging smile?

But, even at Sartoria Caprese, it is sometimes difficult to serve a client.

Roberto Russo remembers how, in July 2007, a very important Saudi prince, surrounded by bodyguards, came to the shop to have a suit made to measure. “The only problem was that he was quite heavy: 185kg. When we take the size of the waist, normally one measuring tape will do the job, but here we needed another half metre. We used two tapes.”

TENNIS PRO When Russo was just eight years old, the only two sports available on the island were football and tennis. When he took over the ailing 70-year-old tennis club and founded the Capri Sport Academy in 2002, little did he know that in five years, his team would win the Italian nationals. Or did he?

“I simply applied the business rules of football to tennis,” he explains.

“You need tenacity to succeed and inspiration and talent but, above all, organizational and managerial capacities.”

He also co-launched, as vice-president of the Yacht Club Capri, the Rolex Capri Sailing week, which attracts sailors from all over the world just before the start of the Mediterranean racing season.

Does he consider himself a candidate when he states that the island needs a city manager? “I hope I still have some good years in front of me. I’m an only child. I’m married and we have two girls – Georgia who is 15 and Victoria, 11. It’s a perfect island to grow up on, without any problems. We can keep our doors open while we sleep, there are no cars, the children can go to school alone. Over the past 30 years the island has realized

Roberto Russo

only a tenth of its potential. It has endless resources: from history to tourism to tennis to sailing. Capri is known throughout the world and the whole world visits here.”

It started with Phoenicians and Greeks, then came the Roman emperors: Augustus who acquired Capri by trading another island and Tiberius who had 12 villas built there. Two millennia later, the list of famous names grows longer with every generation – the island has been visited by Queen Victoria, Oscar Wilde, Somerset Maugham, Norman Douglas and Thomas Mann, singer Gracie Fields, actresses Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida, Onassis and his Jacki, Grace Kelly, Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman.

So, how many of today’s jet-set are Russo’s clients? Roberto merely smiles. The secrets of his famous clients are safe with him. www.russocapri.com/store.html Joséphine Overeem Bespoken

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SUIT THERAPY

Good clean advice…

In collaboration with leading organization World’s Best Cleaners (WBC), Bespoken offers tips on how best to maintain your favourite garments.

© Mark Grealish Photography

Dry cleaning is a real science

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hoosing the correct suit is child’s play compared with deciding how to clean it – the better quality the suit, the greater the fear. Dry-cleaner horror stories and contradicting care advice abound, leaving gentlemen confused. Some manufacturers go so far as to recommend that suits be cleaned only once per year, as a preventative measure against what they perceive as the inevitable confrontations with customers over damaged merchandise.

“The key problem with how garment manufacturers view the dry-cleaning industry is the previous lack of universal standards of excellence,” explains WBC Technical Director Christopher White.

“In reality, proper cleaning will actually extend the life of your wardrobe and 70

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maintain the original integrity of your garments. But the operative phrase here is ‘proper cleaning.’ It’s a real skill and a real science. Unfortunately, few countries impose any sort of procedural regulation, which means that just about anyone can become a dry cleaner.”

suit? “A suit worn for an evening event would only require cleaning every four to five wears, with a re-finishing after the third – depending on whether the garment is properly stored after each wear. If it’s a suit that you wear to the office every day, it should be cleaned every two to three wears.”

WHEN SHOULD I WASH MY SUIT? According to White, when it comes to caring for a good suit, factor in a few variables: firstly, how often do you wear it? “Hot urban environments would require you to clean more often than a cooler suburban or rural environment,” he explains. “In an urban environment you tend to wear lighter colors that show soiling easier; also, these garments are exposed to more perspiration, vehicle exhaust and general soiling. This would require cleaning every three to four wears. In suburban and rural environments, you can get by with every four to five wears, as the colors are darker and there’s less overall soiling.”

Secondly, how long do you wear the

Lastly, do you use a lot of health and beauty aids? “Hair gel, cologne, deodorant, antiperspirants all make their way into the garment and can cause serious damage to the fibres and colours, if not treated quickly.

Many of these products contain alcohol, which, over time and with a little heat, will destroy dyes and finishes. Shirts are very susceptible to this damage and should be cleaned every one to two wears.”

HOW SHOULD I WASH IT? If there is one point that White makes abundantly clear, it would be: DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME. “Up until now, we’ve been talking about general garment maintenance. But what happens when you

‘The suit that you wear to the office every day should be cleaned every two or three wears’ TEN TIPS FOR STAIN REMOVAL 1. Act quickly Fresh stains make stain removal an easier task.

Give yourself the upper hand by treating stains as promptly after they happen as possible. If your stains are on a non-washable fabric, take them to the dry cleaners as soon as possible. Be sure to point out the stain to the dry cleaner and describe the nature of the stain. This makes the likelihood of stain removal success greater.

2. Follow the directions Follow the directions on any stain removal products you use. Don’t forget to follow washing directions on the stained clothes. Getting the stain out, won’t make much difference if you ruin the clothing in the process.

3. Test in a hidden area Don’t forget to test any stain removal methods on a hidden seam or other inconspicuous spot.

You want to check for colorfastness before applying a treatment to a large or noticeable area of the clothing. Do not use if the color changes.

4. Remove stains from the back Place the stained garment with the stain upside down on top of a clean white cloth. Apply stain treatment to the back of the stain. Our goal is to remove the stain from the clothing instead of making it travel all the way through to the other side. Make sure to move the stained clothing to a fresh spot as the stain begins to remove itself from the clothing and onto the cloth.

5. Be careful with dry cleaning solvents Make sure to rinse thoroughly, and allow to

get an actual stain on your clothes? Too many people use some old-wives tale remedy, such as milk or lemon juice, just to avoid taking it to a professional. I can’t tell you how disastrous that usually is. It’s like letting your five-year-old repair your Aston Martin.”

“Again, dry cleaning is a practical science – using chemicals to remove other chemicals from fabrics, without creating color loss or fabric damage,” says White. “Therefore, in order to properly treat a stain, the stain properties have to be accurately identified, as do the fibres or fibre blends of the garment, and the dyes.

STAIN CATEGORIES “Stains are broken down into three basic categories: tannin-based or plant matter, such as wine, juice or ketchup; protein-

air dry any garment that’s had dry cleaning solvents used on it. These solvents can be a fire hazard in a washing machine. Remember never to put dry cleaning solvents directly into the washing machine.

6. Be wary of even colour removal with bleach Bleaching only one stained spot on a garment may result in uneven colour removal for the entire garment. Consider using the appropriate bleach listed in the garment tag to bleach the entire garment.

7. Don’t mix stain-removal products Mixing different chemicals can cause toxic odours and mixed results on your clothing.

8. Wash stain treated items Remember to thoroughly wash items that have been treated with stain removal products to remove product residue and also the stain residue.

9. Be patient Stain removal can take time. Sometimes repeat treatments may be required. Be sure to thoroughly check the garment before drying to determine if a repeat treatment is necessary. Drying will cause a stain to set.

10. Some stains won’t leave For some stains, no stain removal idea or tip can get rid of them without damaging the clothing or its color. But take heart in the fact that the other 9 general stain removal tips will give you a fighting chance against all the stains in your laundry basket. Just a few simple guidelines can take the guesswork out of stain removal.

based or animal matter, such as milk, blood or perspiration; and oil-based, such as grease, oil or petroleum jelly. All of these staining substances can have dire effects on apparel if not treated by an expert.”

White continues: “Fibres are broken down into three basic categories for the purpose of dry cleaning and stain removal: cellulosic or vegetable, such as cotton and linen; protein or animal, such as wool or silk; and synthetic or man-made, such as acetate and nylon. All three categories of apparel fibers have strengths and weaknesses when combined with staining matter.It is vitally important to take your fine garments to what we refer to as Couture Care Specialists – professional dry cleaners with years of experience and the

DECRYPTING WASHING SYMBOLS What it indicates: Wash By Hand.

What it really means: Wash at medium temperature between 30 and 40°C) with a small dose of washing product – do not rub clothes too vigorously and dry with care.

What it indicates: Do not bleach.

What it really means: Ensure that your washing product contains no whitening agent (such as sodium hypochlorite).

What it indicates: Do not iron.

What it really means: Use a steam iron to remove creases, or take garment to a dry cleaner’s.

What it indicates: Do not machine-dry.

What it really means: Dry the garment on a washing-line or leave in a warm place, then leave to dry.

What it indicates: Dry-clean only.

What it really means: Always take delicate fabrics to a dry cleaner’s or wash by hand (at your own risk).

Jérôme Stéfanski, with help from Kristel Geets

technical know-how to deal with highend fabrics and styles. Everything from the cleaning to the finishing can make or break a good suit over time. Your suit is an investment, and we like to think of dry cleaners as akin to service departments in the automotive industry. And as with mechanics, you get what you pay for.”

Michael D’Elicio

This article was kindly provided by World’s Best Cleaners – an independent accreditation organization that objectively certifies the top garment-care specialists around the world. A list of Certified Couture Care Specialists can be found at the WBC site: www.worldsbestcleaners.com Bespoken

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SCABAL’s network

Suits You, Madam!

When Julia Kristensen arrived in Bucharest 13 years ago, little did she know that she would become the first of Romania’s ‘Scabalists’.

This unique client explains her entrepreneurial adventure.

The impressive Casa Frumoasa Store that was originally the Consulate of Luxembourg in Bucharest

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‘during the past four years, we have grown by 30 per cent’

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Julia Kristensen

orn to Russian parents in Riga, Latvia (can you imagine how many languages she speaks?) Julia Kristensen has kept the family name of her former Danish husband.

At Scabal’s Brussels headquarters, they already know that Stil European Impex is not only one of the most productive retailer in Europe, but also that Kristensen can’t stop herself from launching a new project every two years.

As Scabal Finished Products Director and Eastern Europe Sales Manager Matthias Rollmann explains: “She is phenomenal. She always develops new ideas and with such a drive and force!”

And she is not just a strong and successful businesswoman - thanks to her inspired vision, she has built an entire retail empire single-handedly. What makes her unique, not only in her own country but also in Europe as a whole, is that she combines generosity with an understanding of beauty and quality plus unstoppable commercial drive.

DEMOCRATIC EDUCATION When she came to Romania, Julia Kristensen found out about Scabal through a friend and she quickly saw the future of the luxury sector.

Typically, with her entrepreneurial vision and business flair, she acted quickly after the events of 1989 and long before Romania became an EU member. Concerning the future of the young democracy on the Danube, she is philosophical: “It’s a poor country. There is still a canyon separating the well-to-do who are my clients, such as politicians, businessmen, lawyers, engineers, from the majority who aren’t making money yet. You do not accept democracy - people have to educate themselves to it.”

“The first two, three years with Scabal were my learning curve.At the beginning I spent a lot of time at Scabal headquarters in Brussels.

And once I learned the tricks of the luxury made-to-measure, my figures doubled for the next six years. During the past four years, we have grown by 30 per cent.”

Kristensen’s most recent project was selling her villa at the Calea Victoriei that she acquired two years ago to house her Scabal business and purchasing, for 5€ million, an impeccable 19th century villa in the business sector on Lascar Catargiu Boulevard. With Italian architect and interior decorator Elena Busato, Kristensen invested another 1€ million and opened her outlet in September 2008 - not merely to house the full Scabal collection on the first two floors, but also other luxury brands and products in a bid to boost turnover even more. In addition, the recent opening of an on-site champagne and caviar bar provides a discreet, elegant environment for business meetings, and will soon be complemented by an upstairs design studio, offering complete consultancy for luxury living. Elena Busato takes charge of the design projects, while Kristensen does what she like so much and does so well: handle the commercial side. She believes a time will come “... when people in Romania not only dress nicely and expensively but will also redo their

houses in the same way”. The two women discovered their shared passion during the renovation period, and have since teamed up as business partners.

BESPOKE SERVICE Julia takes personal care of her some 300 made-to-measure and bespoke customers. Scabal Technical Manager Ready-To-Wear and Special Products Mario Arcuri, who visits Bucharest twice per year, remembers an anecdote from the start-up period: “A very important personality visited her shop, accompanied by bodyguards. I explained the collection and the different qualities on offer: this suit for work, this one for the theatre, that for the weekend, this light coat for town, that one for the country... In the end, there were around 40 garments lying on the table, and I was waiting for him to choose. He looked at me and said: ‘Da”, which means ‘yes’. I looked at Julia, who was standing behind him. She sees that I’m amazed, and winks at me, as if to say, ‘that’s how things go here’. There were at least five or six suits…

Kristensen tells another story, concerning one of her best clients who is also one of the richest men in Romania.

“I say to him: ‘How can I make you happy?

It’s so hard to make you want anything: you don’t want to buy.’ So, when I go to the shows in Milan, which I do several times a year, and I hear about handmade crocodile shoes, of which only 800 pairs exist worldwide, I bring some back for him. Those, he liked.”

And she is also passionate about educating her rather traditional clients.

When their order is delivered, she also makes some suggestions as to how best accessorize the garment. “It is the work of a personal shopper, but I do it for free. The customers become more open to suggestions and have lately been opting for fancier choices.”

Joséphine Overeem Bespoken

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AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-2010 TRENDS

Hundreds of luxurious cloths, designs and shades

© Fotostudio Uyttebroeck

Scabal seasonal collections are not like New Year parties – there is no ‘out with the old and in with the new’. Rather, they are evolving collections of hundreds of luxurious cloths, designs and shades.

‘Triple A’: An old Scabal favourite that makes a return in a new collection

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ew lines are added – and others are withdrawn – in response to style trends, changes in market behaviour, or technical innovations in fabrics and production processes.

But the objective is always the same – to offer a collection that provides discerning dressers around the world with the individual choice and quality they demand.

Michael Day, Scabal’s fabric designer, picks out six new lines and explains how they will enrich the Scabal Autumn-Winter 2009/2010 Collection: “Mandarin is a soft, luxurious wool and silk suiting cloth for winter. This light blend is a big summer favourite but strong demand – and a general trend to warmer winters – has led us to create a winter line.”

“Essentials is a new collection bringing beautiful, soft Super 150’s wool to jacketing.

Apart from cashmere, wools as fine as 74

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this are not generally available for jackets.

This is pure luxury.”

“A new top-quality Super 150’s wool suiting is Toison d’Or. We have created some semifancy designs, distinctive when you are close up but discreet from a distance. This is a fine quality with subtle design work.”

‘Scabal seasonal collections are not like New Year parties – there is no 'out with the old and in with the new'.

Rather, they are evolving, classic collections...’

“Scabal is going back to wool overcoats next winter with a new range of Super 100’s and cashmere cloth. There is a trend back to made-to-measure coats;

at least Scabal has noticed a trend. With the slimmer suit styling today, men want to return to a more fitted coat… and throw out those anoraks! We also have a line of pure cotton trouser fabrics which we have named Ascona. This is heavy winter cotton casual wear. The range with 33 numbers is mostly plains and we have included a couple of fancy colours like orange and purple. It’s very relaxed and comfortable, the sort of garment that men wear with a sweater.”

“Triple A is an old Scabal favourite that we are bringing back with a new collection.

It is a semi-classic Super 120’s wool. In the old days, before “Supers”, wool was graded A, AA or AAA. This is best quality wool, so we call it Triple A.” “These are the principal new lines in our upcoming Autumn-Winter collection. Like the existing products they accompany, I think they all stay very close to wellestablished Scabal attributes: quality, craftsmanship and attention to detail.”

Nigel Bishop

PM BESPOKEN 225x300:bat 27/11/08 14:25 Page1

“Haute couture or chocolate? I enjoy nothing more than pushing the boundaries of chocolate and pastry-making. By suggesting the mingling of two very different worlds, I’ve come up with the Hat Box.” Pierre Marcolini BRUXELLES

ANTWERPEN

Avenue Louise, 75M 1050 Bruxelles

Huidevettersstraat, 38-40 2000 Antwerpen

Rue des Minimes, 1 1000 Bruxelles

LIEGE En Bergerue, 18, 4000 Liège

Avenue de Hinnisdael, 14 1150 Bruxelles

KNOKKE

Chaussée de Waterloo, 1302 1180 Bruxelles

Elizabethlaan, 5, 8300 Knokke

www.marcolini.com

PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

Inspiration Dali Bespoken is proud to preview an important project led by Scabal and The London College of Fashion, based on Salvador Dali's paintings.

© S. Papandropoulo

T

The Dali project, supervised by teacher Alan Cannon-Jones

hroughout the 20 th century there have been many iconic figures and when people look at the art world in particular, the Spanish painter Salvador Dali stands out as someone who merits special recognition. His unique and often bizarre creations reveal an imagination and style that made a profound impression on the world and continues to influence many today.

them from the rest of the traditional collection.

design, the company has created a partnership with the London College of Fashion.

We are now into the 21st century and the relationship between Scabal and Dali has also moved forward

DALI AND SCABAL In 1971, Scabal commissioned the artist to draw pictures on how he saw man and fashion in the 21st century. The results, based on his own individual approach, which for many was characterized by his beautifully tailored suits creating an almost dandyesque persona, became the inspiration behind a collection of fabrics launched

by Scabal in 2004.

Scabal deliberately set to work on these fabrics in a more extravagant manner than usual, but staying within the remit of adapting and interpreting Dali’s creations. And while the result was a unique and highly successful range of fabrics, they remained in keeping with the quality and style associated with Scabal cloth.

This relationship has been created to offer students and staff of the college the opportunity to work on interpreting Dali’s paintings through a variety of media. Both Scabal and the London College of Fashion wanted to develop this project utilizing three other disciplines to complement the traditional bespoke tailoring department. Consequently, the project has included the additional subjects of menswear, theatre and digital print.

These fabrics were a direct interpretation of each of the paintings and, while initially to the un-noticing eye they appear classic, upon closer inspection the detail, colour, patterns and irregular striping distinguish

A NEW INTERPRETATION We are now into the 21st century – and the relationship between Scabal and Dali has also moved forward. In continuing to search for new inspiration for future cloth

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On behalf of Scabal, Sales Director Neil Hart said: “Scabal is delighted to be working in partnership with London College of Fashion on the Dali project and looks forward to seeing the finished work utilizing our fabrics across a range of new and diverse disciplines.”

Some 20 students and staff across the four disciplines have the opportunity to utilize fabrics from Scabal’s collection in their work. With this, they are free to design and develop concepts that remain within the core values, taking the Dali paintings as

inspiration. This creative freedom has been a key aspect and driving force for the London College of Fashion to become involved. Dali himself revelled in unrestrained expression in all sectors of his life and it is this which all students and staff involved have been actively encouraged to take on in their work.

Alan Cannon-Jones, Director of Programmes, Tailoring and Technology at London College of Fashion explains: “We have invited

our best students to work on this project which involves them creating garments based on the original twelve pictures Dali drew. We have asked our students to be as creative and imaginative as Dali was, so without any limits! ” The students’ work across all disciplines is currently targeted for completion by early 2009, with discussions under way to display the finished pieces at the London College of Fashion exhibition hall at Oxford Circus later in the year.

In addition, further potential exists for displaying these works in a number of international markets, allowing visitors themselves to see the inspiration generated by Salvador Dali’s association with Scabal and the work of the London College of Fashion.

And don’t miss the next issue of Bespoken, in which the twelve works will be exclusively published…

Stephen Papandropoulos

FRESH OPENINGS SCABAL IN MUMBAI

SCABAL IN KARSTADT’S PREMIUM GROUP

SCABAL IN JAKARTA

Scabal has brought its ready-to-wear and accessory line to India. Available exclusively at Kings in Bombay, a separate Scabal section, based on the Savile Row flagship store, has been created to display Scabal fabrics. Scabal has been in India for many years, and more ‘shop in shops’ are planned for key cities.

Following the success enjoyed by the store in the Karstadt flagship in Berlin’s KaDeWe that opened nearly three years ago, Scabal has now moved into Munich. Oberpollinger, the Premium Group’s store, has been lavishly renovated and boasts most important labels in men’s and women’s fashion. Scabal, with its unique made-to-measure area, following its Savile Row flagship design, combines contemporary style and tailored tradition.

Scabal is pleased to announce the recent opening of its Jakarta store, in association with Indonesian partners, Alta Moda. The outlet is located in one of the most prestigious malls in Jakarta, One Pacific Place, and its design is also based on Scabal's Savile Row store.

Oberpollinger Neuhauser Strasse, 18 80331 München Germany T. +49(0)89 290 240 40

Alta Moda Boutique One Pacific Place Mall Unit 1-52 Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, (SCBD) Kebayoran Baru Jakarta Selatan Indonesia T. +62 21 51402787-89

© Scabal

KINGS Meghdoot 197, Linking road Bandra, Bombay India T. +91 26422882-5886

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FASHION ONLINE

Women’s views on men’s fashion

© Courtesy of Men’s Vogue

Who better than a woman to offer advice on male clothing? Two specialist female bloggers let you in on their secrets…

Amanda Brooks

IN HER EYES Amanda Brooks is a fashion consultant and oft-photographed woman-aboutManhattan who has written about style for Vogue and the New York Times Magazine. Her blog, ‘In Her Eyes’ can be read at www.mensvogue.com, and shares a woman’s perspective on what men are wearing and what she’d like them to wear.

“It’s meant to be an inspiration, not dictation”, she says.

Why is a woman’s perspective interesting?

Amanda Brooks : It’s fun to talk about what I find attractive. And I think (hope!) that men like to hear what a woman finds attractive. It’s a fresh perspective and hopefully more constructive than what their men friends might say to them about their clothes.

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In your opinion, what does it mean to have an ‘eye for fashion’?

For me, saying that a man has an eye for fashion is not the way I would give him a compliment – it sounds trendy which is not the way I want to think of a man.

A well-dressed man is not afraid to try new things but is very disciplined in knowing what he can and can't carry off.

Do you need to spend a lot of money to be stylish or sophisticated?

Absolutely not. In fact, money can sometimes be a great inhibitor to style.

Some men and women think if you spend a lot of money on clothes you will automatically look good, but that’s not the case. When wearing expensive clothes, you have to work extra hard to give personality to your look – a new custom suit with wellworn wingtips, or that cashmere sweater with lived-in jeans.

What is a men’s fashion trend of the past you’ d like to see make a comeback and why?

I blogged this week about the Ascot tie.

I’ d certainly be impressed to run into a guy that could make one work.

‘A well-dressed man is not afraid to try new things but is very disciplined in knowing what he can and can’t carry off’

What big for men’s fashion in 2009?

Double-breasted, plaid, rolled up jeans, mis-matched suits.

For you, what's a serious male fashion 'no-no'?

Anything that makes you look like you're trying too hard.

What are some of your favorite men’s fashion websites/blogs that you frequent?

To be honest, I don’t look at men’s blogs.

What do you see as ‘essential’ to a man’s wardrobe?

That really depends on their lifestyle.

My husband is an artist and his essentials are cargo pants, New Balance sneakers, hundreds of T-shirts and three nice suits. Other men might benefit from a few custom-tailored shirts. The most important thing about essentials is that the fit is perfect and that you look ‘at home’ in them.

Who are some designers you like for trendy or classic menswear?

I love Dolce and Gabbana suits. The cut is beautiful and they have great traditional tweeds and pinstripes. For less traditional clothes, I like Richard James in London. The colors and the patterns are very bold and unlike anything I’ve seen. Also, I have to say I'm a sucker for Tom Ford – Brad Pitt looked damn good on the red carpet last year.*

www.mensvogue.com/clothing/blogs/in_her_eyes * Richard James and Tom Ford are Scabal clients

Jennine Tamm

THE POSTE OFFICE Jennine Tamm, 33, describes her own style as “playful and sometimes over the top”. From her computer in Germany, Tamm channels her own passion for fashion into several smartblogs, including one dedicated to menswear, infusing her vibrant personality into radical opinion-forming.

Bespoken : Why do you blog about men’s fashion?

Jennine Tamm : Men are visual creatures and there weren’t a lot of blogs for men, so I started one.

What does it mean to have an ‘eye’ for fashion?

It’s about tapping into the intuitive part of dressing. There are rules in fashion, but they’re like suggestions. The intuitive part is the fun part-the personality-like the Duke of Winsdor mixing four patterns together or Fred Astaire using a tie as a belt.

What’s big for men’s fashion in 2009?

The whole dapper/vintage look has been cultivated for years now and I’m seeing interesting twists on this look.

Do you need to spend a lot of money to be stylish or sophisticated?

No, but you need to be patient to find good deals. Men’s clothing tends to be more expensive than women’s but it doesn’t move as quickly so investing in sophistication makes sense.

Who are some of your favorite men’s designers at the moment?

I like Opening Ceremony, Band of Outsiders and Raf by Raf Simons. They are classic but still young and fresh.

What are some of your favourite menswear blogs?

The Sunday Best, Style Salvage, Scummy Man and Mensrag. www.leposte.blogspot.com Kimberley Lovato Bespoken

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SCABAL WORLDWIDE viSit SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At 12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London, pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com or tHe SCABAL CornerS in Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, 61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, SCABALfrAnCe@WAnAdoo.fr And KAdeWe, 1St fLoor, tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin, pHone +49-30-219 18 530, ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.de lASTLY, FIND OUR BRAND-NEW STORE AT OBERPOLLINGER, NEUHAUSER STRASSE 18, 80331 Munich, GERMANY phone +49-89-290 240 40, dagmar.dueh@scabal.de for otHer LoCAtionS, viSit tHe Store LoCAtor on WWW.SCABAL.Com

CLOTH

GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES

EUROPE SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com AUSTRIA +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at

CYPRUS +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com

MEXICO +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx

POLAND +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl

Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

PORTUGAL +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt ROMANIA +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro RUSSIA +7-495-660-7163 ag@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2010 sol@solstudio.RU SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com +49-171-651 08 29 hans-peter.wichert@t-online.de TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr

FRANCE +33-1-42 33 08 93 scabal_france@scabal.com

AMERICA ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar

GERMANY +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de

BRESIL +55-11-362 041 044 erlutecidos@sti.com.br

GREAT BRITAIN +44-207-734 1867 HAZEL.EDMONDS@SCABAL.COM +44-777-591 64 53 rsointernational@hotmail.com GREECE +30-210-67 27 431 DCON@OTENET.GR +30-210-3618 668 ELLI@stamataki.gr ITALY +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com

CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com CHILI +56-2-638 14 72 c.rubio@holmes.cl COLOMBIA +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@coldecon.net.co DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do

U.S.A. +1-212-4756 666 fabricczar@aol.com VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com ASIA & OCEANIA AZERBAIJAN +99-412-382.214 salamzade@rambler.ru AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 A.WAIN@BIGPOND.NET.au BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS– MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-6336 0070 heefabricagencies@hee.sg HONG KONG +852-25-433 694 INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan @scabal.co.jp KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-140-375 27 16 FARIS@FMMERCIE.com south korea +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com AFRICA SOUTH-AFRICA +27-21-794 67 27 jb.elder@iBURST.co.za

Scabal Autumn – Winter 2009-2010

NEXT ISSUE: AUGUST 09

THE OFFICE

IN THE NEXT BESPOKEN, SCABAL TELLS A STORY OF THE MODERN BUSINESSMAN, IN A SURREAL ENVIRONMENT, AND GIVES YOU THE CHANCE TO DISCOVER THE AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-10 COLLECTION, WHICH WILL BE WORN BY DISCERNING GENTLEMEN AROUND THE WORLD. RESERVE YOUR COPY, WHICH WILL BE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME, ON WWW.BESPOKEN.COM

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this fourth edition of bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of:

10-09-2008 13:02:40

Request your next copy of Scabal’s magazine Bespoken on Bespoken.com