BESPOKEN 5

be spo ken

AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-2010 TRENDS

Autumn ­– Winter 2009-2010 5th Edition

Men at Work INTERVIEWS

Lech Walesa Nelson Piquet Jr. Paul-Loup Sulitzer Ozwald Boateng

REMEMBER DALI BESPOKE BUSINESS

A SCABAL i n itiati ve to promote A taIlor -made lifesty le

Admiral’s Cup name approved by the Royal Ocean Racing Club, London.

The Admiral’s Cup Black Hull 48. Corum CO753 exclusive movement, chronometer certified. A unique black automatic chronograph with pushers lock. www.corum.ch

Admiral’s Cup Limited Edition

Bespoken

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Admiral’s Cup name approved by the Royal Ocean Racing Club, London.

The Admiral’s Cup Black Hull 48. Corum CO753 exclusive movement, chronometer certified. A unique black automatic chronograph with pushers lock. www.corum.ch

Admiral’s Cup Limited Edition

Bespoken

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3

We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher.

The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors.

Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the contentof advertisements printed on its pages.

Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor: Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher: Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator: Kristel Geets Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design: BaseDESIGN Writers: Nigel Bishop Alan Cannon-Jones Kimberley Lovato Colin Moors Stephen Papandropoulos Bernhard Roetzel James Sherwood Jérôme Stéfanski Santo Versace Veerle Windels Proofreading: ReadRight.be Photographers: David Hughes Stephen Papandropoulos by2 Photographers

www.ruinart.com

Illustrator: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Taste our knowledge wisely.

SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 www.scabal.com

Editorial COMMENT

‘To live is to work’

N

o, don’t worry, we are not going to talk about the economic crisis.

So much has already been written and said that we feel there is really not much more to add, other than we will simply have to get through it, won’t we?

Our central theme in this Bespoken is the office, the world of work – and we would just like to take a moment to reflect on the place where most of us spend more time than any other place.

Because, as the proverb puts it, ‘To live is to work’, and it is very important to love what you do for a living. Some take it a step further – they invest their passion and ideals into what they do, and we have the pleasure of meeting a few such gentlemen in this edition.

Take Nobel Peace Prize-winner Lech Walesa, for example – we caught up with him in his home town of Gdansk to chat about his life and career. And let’s not forget Formula 1 driver Nelson Piquet Jr. and celebrated writer PaulLoup Sulitzer, both of whom also offer us a vision of their work.

One’s office is one’s job, and your job is probably one of your most valuable assets. While jobs and careers (not to be confused with monetary reward) for many have previously seemed almost a secondary factor in their lives, they now appear to be much more valued than before – a new paradigm that could perhaps be viewed as one of

the few positive evolutions linked with the huge changes that we are witnessing around the world.

And maybe this, too, will bring about yet another transformation in sartorial habits – perhaps dressing well in the work environment will once again be a valued employee trait. Certainly, this would be a trend that Scabal would welcome and support. That’s not to say, of course, that casual-wear is a bad thing, but dressing according to the occasion and mood should be part of our culture – studies have shown that a stricter dress code has a positive influence on work performance.

So, once again, we wish you a very pleasant read, and look forward to your feedback.

J. Peter and Gregor Thissen

J. Peter Thissen, Scabal Group Chairman and his son Gregor, CEO

Do you have any suggestions or feedback?

Let us know at www.bespoken.com Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com Bespoken

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3

We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher.

The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors.

Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the contentof advertisements printed on its pages.

Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor: Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher: Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator: Kristel Geets Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design: BaseDESIGN Writers: Nigel Bishop Alan Cannon-Jones Kimberley Lovato Colin Moors Stephen Papandropoulos Bernhard Roetzel James Sherwood Jérôme Stéfanski Santo Versace Veerle Windels Proofreading: ReadRight.be Photographers: David Hughes Stephen Papandropoulos by2 Photographers

www.ruinart.com

Illustrator: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Taste our knowledge wisely.

SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 www.scabal.com

Editorial COMMENT

‘To live is to work’

N

o, don’t worry, we are not going to talk about the economic crisis.

So much has already been written and said that we feel there is really not much more to add, other than we will simply have to get through it, won’t we?

Our central theme in this Bespoken is the office, the world of work – and we would just like to take a moment to reflect on the place where most of us spend more time than any other place.

Because, as the proverb puts it, ‘To live is to work’, and it is very important to love what you do for a living. Some take it a step further – they invest their passion and ideals into what they do, and we have the pleasure of meeting a few such gentlemen in this edition.

Take Nobel Peace Prize-winner Lech Walesa, for example – we caught up with him in his home town of Gdansk to chat about his life and career. And let’s not forget Formula 1 driver Nelson Piquet Jr. and celebrated writer PaulLoup Sulitzer, both of whom also offer us a vision of their work.

One’s office is one’s job, and your job is probably one of your most valuable assets. While jobs and careers (not to be confused with monetary reward) for many have previously seemed almost a secondary factor in their lives, they now appear to be much more valued than before – a new paradigm that could perhaps be viewed as one of

the few positive evolutions linked with the huge changes that we are witnessing around the world.

And maybe this, too, will bring about yet another transformation in sartorial habits – perhaps dressing well in the work environment will once again be a valued employee trait. Certainly, this would be a trend that Scabal would welcome and support. That’s not to say, of course, that casual-wear is a bad thing, but dressing according to the occasion and mood should be part of our culture – studies have shown that a stricter dress code has a positive influence on work performance.

So, once again, we wish you a very pleasant read, and look forward to your feedback.

J. Peter and Gregor Thissen

J. Peter Thissen, Scabal Group Chairman and his son Gregor, CEO

Do you have any suggestions or feedback?

Let us know at www.bespoken.com Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com Bespoken

I

3

BESPoKEN’S

conTribuTors

NIGEl BIShoP For much of his career, Nigel Bishop has worked in advertising in london, New york and Paris.

He has been a freelance writer for the past 15 years, working with multinational companies in B-to-B communications. Since 2007, Nigel has collaborated with Scabal’s Fabrics design department and, in this edition, he examines the marketing approach implemented by an important Scabal client: de Vlaminck.

JaMES ShERWooD James Sherwood is the author – curator of The London Cut, a book and exhibition showcasing Savile row bespoke tailoring. He has written about men’s style for more than a decade in the Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, The Spectator, The Sunday Telegraph and The Independent. For the past five years, Sherwood has been the BBC’s fashion critic at royal ascot, and he is the curator of the archive room at No 1 Savile row. For Bespoken, he meets up with the irrepressible ozwald Boateng in his Savile row fiefdom.

alaN CaNNoN-JoNES alan Cannon-Jones is the director of menswear and bespoke tailoring at the london College of Fashion and works as a consultant in the fashion industry. He is also a regular contributor to conferences on the subjects of menswear, bespoke tailoring and mass customization. He is the author of Bespoken’s muchappreciated ‘Tailor’s dictionary’ and is the brains behind the ‘dali Project’ collaboration between Scabal and london College of Fashion.

kIMBERlEy loVaTo Kimberley lovato is a freelance journalist whose articles about travel and lifestyle have appeared in the St. Petersburg Times, Tampa Bay Illustrated, French News, Together Magazine and various other print and online media in the US and Europe. She is also the author of a soon-to-be-released book about the dordogne region of France. Her passion for travel and gastronomy is ideally suited to Bespoken’s sections devoted to fi ne dining and prestigious events around the globe.

STEPhEN PaPaNDRoPouloS Photographer Stephen Papandropoulos works predominantly on location for a variety of clients. His images pinpoint individual moments within the ordinary and his work has received acclaim in various international photography competitions. in this edition, he treats us to his vision of one of Scabal’s most important units – Sales department.

BERNhaRD RoETzEl author of the popular Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design, Bernhard roetzel has studied classic men’s fashion for more than ten years. aside from his work as an author and editor, he also holds lectures and seminars on style issues. in this edition of Bespoken, he assesses the different styles of suit that a gentleman should wear for work.

SaNTo VERSaCE The latest guest to feature in our ‘Confession’ section, Santo Versace is the president and cochief executive officer of Gianni Versace, S.p.a. based in Milan, italy. He was born in reggio Calabria – his father was a wholesaler, and his mother a dressmaker and shop owner. aged just six, Santo joined forces with his father and worked after school and during summers with him until he went to university.

When not in school, Santo took care of his younger brother Gianni and sister donatella. in 1977, Versace along with Gianni founded the Gianni Versace trademark, which was focused on four core principles – communication, organization, productivity and quality.

illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

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Bespoken

HONEY MOON

BIG SIZE CENTRAL MOONPHASE

Ref. A3013/1

www.perrelet.com

BESPoKEN’S

conTribuTors

NIGEl BIShoP For much of his career, Nigel Bishop has worked in advertising in london, New york and Paris.

He has been a freelance writer for the past 15 years, working with multinational companies in B-to-B communications. Since 2007, Nigel has collaborated with Scabal’s Fabrics design department and, in this edition, he examines the marketing approach implemented by an important Scabal client: de Vlaminck.

JaMES ShERWooD James Sherwood is the author – curator of The London Cut, a book and exhibition showcasing Savile row bespoke tailoring. He has written about men’s style for more than a decade in the Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, The Spectator, The Sunday Telegraph and The Independent. For the past five years, Sherwood has been the BBC’s fashion critic at royal ascot, and he is the curator of the archive room at No 1 Savile row. For Bespoken, he meets up with the irrepressible ozwald Boateng in his Savile row fiefdom.

alaN CaNNoN-JoNES alan Cannon-Jones is the director of menswear and bespoke tailoring at the london College of Fashion and works as a consultant in the fashion industry. He is also a regular contributor to conferences on the subjects of menswear, bespoke tailoring and mass customization. He is the author of Bespoken’s muchappreciated ‘Tailor’s dictionary’ and is the brains behind the ‘dali Project’ collaboration between Scabal and london College of Fashion.

kIMBERlEy loVaTo Kimberley lovato is a freelance journalist whose articles about travel and lifestyle have appeared in the St. Petersburg Times, Tampa Bay Illustrated, French News, Together Magazine and various other print and online media in the US and Europe. She is also the author of a soon-to-be-released book about the dordogne region of France. Her passion for travel and gastronomy is ideally suited to Bespoken’s sections devoted to fi ne dining and prestigious events around the globe.

STEPhEN PaPaNDRoPouloS Photographer Stephen Papandropoulos works predominantly on location for a variety of clients. His images pinpoint individual moments within the ordinary and his work has received acclaim in various international photography competitions. in this edition, he treats us to his vision of one of Scabal’s most important units – Sales department.

BERNhaRD RoETzEl author of the popular Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design, Bernhard roetzel has studied classic men’s fashion for more than ten years. aside from his work as an author and editor, he also holds lectures and seminars on style issues. in this edition of Bespoken, he assesses the different styles of suit that a gentleman should wear for work.

SaNTo VERSaCE The latest guest to feature in our ‘Confession’ section, Santo Versace is the president and cochief executive officer of Gianni Versace, S.p.a. based in Milan, italy. He was born in reggio Calabria – his father was a wholesaler, and his mother a dressmaker and shop owner. aged just six, Santo joined forces with his father and worked after school and during summers with him until he went to university.

When not in school, Santo took care of his younger brother Gianni and sister donatella. in 1977, Versace along with Gianni founded the Gianni Versace trademark, which was focused on four core principles – communication, organization, productivity and quality.

illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

4

I

Bespoken

HONEY MOON

BIG SIZE CENTRAL MOONPHASE

Ref. A3013/1

www.perrelet.com

CoNFESSioN

THE HEART OF COGNAC

crisis ManageMenT Versace S.p.a President and italian MP Santo Versace offers his thoughts on the global fi nancial meltdown.

T

he ‘Europe of the bureaucrats’ can be seen as going against the interests of European manufacturers – there are a great number of jobs that are in danger in the sector in Europe but, concerning the international fi nancial crisis that in fact began in america, i deplore the fact that fi nancial gurus have produced the biggest economic meltdown of the past 15 years. in addition, we must also remember that the world has already suffered enough recent crises, including the iraq war, 9/11, Severe acute respiratory Syndrome (SarS) and so on. i believe that the fashion industry can endure difficult periods, and it will always grow and recover from turbulence. if we analyze the history of great French brands such as louis Vuitton, Hermès and Cartier, we see that they too survived wars, crises, and that they are still there and flourishing. The focal point is that people will always want to dress well – they need beauty, and beauty will always overcome any crisis.

With the present problems, i see that there is less ostentation, everybody wants to show fewer logos, but the customer is still always on the lookout for quality and style. and it’s not just about quality, but price as well.

© Versace

‘the focal point is that people Will alWays Want to Dress Well they neeD beauty, anD beauty Will alWays overcome any crisis’ Santo Versace Suit by Versace

6

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Bespoken

Taste our know-how wisely.

CoNFESSioN

THE HEART OF COGNAC

crisis ManageMenT Versace S.p.a President and italian MP Santo Versace offers his thoughts on the global fi nancial meltdown.

T

he ‘Europe of the bureaucrats’ can be seen as going against the interests of European manufacturers – there are a great number of jobs that are in danger in the sector in Europe but, concerning the international fi nancial crisis that in fact began in america, i deplore the fact that fi nancial gurus have produced the biggest economic meltdown of the past 15 years. in addition, we must also remember that the world has already suffered enough recent crises, including the iraq war, 9/11, Severe acute respiratory Syndrome (SarS) and so on. i believe that the fashion industry can endure difficult periods, and it will always grow and recover from turbulence. if we analyze the history of great French brands such as louis Vuitton, Hermès and Cartier, we see that they too survived wars, crises, and that they are still there and flourishing. The focal point is that people will always want to dress well – they need beauty, and beauty will always overcome any crisis.

With the present problems, i see that there is less ostentation, everybody wants to show fewer logos, but the customer is still always on the lookout for quality and style. and it’s not just about quality, but price as well.

© Versace

‘the focal point is that people Will alWays Want to Dress Well they neeD beauty, anD beauty Will alWays overcome any crisis’ Santo Versace Suit by Versace

6

I

Bespoken

Taste our know-how wisely.

IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

Made-tww-measure unlimited

Under-collar available in 9 colours

Neopolitan-style padded shoulders

Button-hole in contrasted colours

Fine interlining

If Scabal has always been known worldwide for the exceptional quality and range of its fabrics, the brand is equally an international reference point for its finishing touches – in short, its near-infinite selection of the highest-quality made-to-measure suits.

2mm, 6mm and 8mm saddle stitching available

Linings and embroidered initials available in 37 colours

Horizontal or slanted pockets, with or without flap Slanted pockets

© Scabal

Open button holes

With or without pleats

INTERVIEW Why are men moving more towards made-to-measure if ready-to-wear outfits already fit well?

Mario Arcuri: Firstly, are you really sure that your ready-to-wear suit is well proportioned and that it fits perfectly?

At this level, aesthetics are very important, and let us not forget the issue of comfort. No ready-to-wear suit can compete with made-to-measure in these criteria – there are details that cannot be matched. With made-to-measure, the expression ‘No-one knows you better than yourself ’ was never more true, because customized clothing accurately reflects the customer’s most extravagant, personalized choices.

Bespoken:

© Scabal

Scabal offers more than 200 options to make your made-to-measure suit unique

W

ithout doubt, as the fashion magazines keep reminding us, the madeto-measure suit is very much in vogue.

In previous years, in our fathers’ and 8

I

Bespoken

grandfathers’ era, for example, there was not exactly an abundance of readily available ready-to-wear, so the focus on made-to-measure was understandable. But recent times have seen an explosion in the ready-to-wear market, with large clothing chains and international brands making it much easier to acquire a (more or less) good-

quality suit. So, what are the reasons for made-to-measure’s triumphant return, with the very same companies all seemingly ready to embark on their own made-to-measure ‘adventure’?

We put the question to Scabal Technical Manager Mario Arcuri, himself a tailor’s son.

What are the most important factors to take into consideration with made-to-measure?

The most important point is the balance of the garment, because a good suit should sit perfectly on the shoulders and at neck level, particularly when it is fastened. In addition, the width of

the shoulders is very important. The sleeves must be comfortable, not too broad or narrow, to allow the gentleman unrestricted movement. Third, the question of length. Let us take as an example the full length– on ready-towear, one could never remove more than 3cm, because it risks altering the clothing’s proportions. Furthermore, to add in excess of 3cm is impossible but, with made-to-measure, all measurements can be adjusted to the nearest millimetre, before the garment is made.

So, I am convinced of the advantages of made-to-measure – but how would you convince me to choose Scabal?

I think that Scabal’s primary advantage is the choice and quality of fabrics that we offer, with more than 5,000 fabrics available. The number of factors that allow you to make your suit unique is also impressive; we have more than 200 options, such as embroidered initials, personalized linings, buttons, undercollar, inside pockets, not forgetting

the multiple choices of models that are available. In addition to this, you have a guarantee of 100% European production. What more could you want?

What are the most recent innovations in Scabal’s made-tomeasure range?

In addition to the wide range of personalization options, which has not stopped growing over the years, the most important evolution in recent months has without question been the introduction of the new 408 model. Thanks to this more contemporary cut, we are widening our range of potential customers.

Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken

I

9

IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

Made-tww-measure unlimited

Under-collar available in 9 colours

Neopolitan-style padded shoulders

Button-hole in contrasted colours

Fine interlining

If Scabal has always been known worldwide for the exceptional quality and range of its fabrics, the brand is equally an international reference point for its finishing touches – in short, its near-infinite selection of the highest-quality made-to-measure suits.

2mm, 6mm and 8mm saddle stitching available

Linings and embroidered initials available in 37 colours

Horizontal or slanted pockets, with or without flap Slanted pockets

© Scabal

Open button holes

With or without pleats

INTERVIEW Why are men moving more towards made-to-measure if ready-to-wear outfits already fit well?

Mario Arcuri: Firstly, are you really sure that your ready-to-wear suit is well proportioned and that it fits perfectly?

At this level, aesthetics are very important, and let us not forget the issue of comfort. No ready-to-wear suit can compete with made-to-measure in these criteria – there are details that cannot be matched. With made-to-measure, the expression ‘No-one knows you better than yourself ’ was never more true, because customized clothing accurately reflects the customer’s most extravagant, personalized choices.

Bespoken:

© Scabal

Scabal offers more than 200 options to make your made-to-measure suit unique

W

ithout doubt, as the fashion magazines keep reminding us, the madeto-measure suit is very much in vogue.

In previous years, in our fathers’ and 8

I

Bespoken

grandfathers’ era, for example, there was not exactly an abundance of readily available ready-to-wear, so the focus on made-to-measure was understandable. But recent times have seen an explosion in the ready-to-wear market, with large clothing chains and international brands making it much easier to acquire a (more or less) good-

quality suit. So, what are the reasons for made-to-measure’s triumphant return, with the very same companies all seemingly ready to embark on their own made-to-measure ‘adventure’?

We put the question to Scabal Technical Manager Mario Arcuri, himself a tailor’s son.

What are the most important factors to take into consideration with made-to-measure?

The most important point is the balance of the garment, because a good suit should sit perfectly on the shoulders and at neck level, particularly when it is fastened. In addition, the width of

the shoulders is very important. The sleeves must be comfortable, not too broad or narrow, to allow the gentleman unrestricted movement. Third, the question of length. Let us take as an example the full length– on ready-towear, one could never remove more than 3cm, because it risks altering the clothing’s proportions. Furthermore, to add in excess of 3cm is impossible but, with made-to-measure, all measurements can be adjusted to the nearest millimetre, before the garment is made.

So, I am convinced of the advantages of made-to-measure – but how would you convince me to choose Scabal?

I think that Scabal’s primary advantage is the choice and quality of fabrics that we offer, with more than 5,000 fabrics available. The number of factors that allow you to make your suit unique is also impressive; we have more than 200 options, such as embroidered initials, personalized linings, buttons, undercollar, inside pockets, not forgetting

the multiple choices of models that are available. In addition to this, you have a guarantee of 100% European production. What more could you want?

What are the most recent innovations in Scabal’s made-tomeasure range?

In addition to the wide range of personalization options, which has not stopped growing over the years, the most important evolution in recent months has without question been the introduction of the new 408 model. Thanks to this more contemporary cut, we are widening our range of potential customers.

Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken

I

9

From J to L We are proud to announce that our Tailor’s Dictionary will soon be published in the Romanian edition of the world-famous GQ Magazine.

An honour for both Scabal and its devotee, Alan Cannon-Jones of London College of Fashion.

J

Jet or Jetting

(also known in Ireland as a Jeet)

A narrow strip of fabric usually cut on the warp and then sewn parallel to the pocket opening, turned over and forming the pocket-mouth edge.

Jumper Press

A type of underpressing iron that is mounted on the end of a swing arm through which pressure can be applied by linkage to a foot operated pedal.

Used for pressing open seams.

K

Knee Lift

A lever under an industrial sewing machine which is operated by the machinist’s knee to lift the presser foot during sewing operations.

Jetted Pocket

A pocket normally found on the front of a jacket on which the edges are finished by the application of jettings (see above). This pocket often has a flap sewn between the jettings.

©F. Uyttenhove

Tailor’s Dictionary

Tailor’s Dictionary

Lap Felled Seam

A seam formed with the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping. Usually found on shirt side seams and also used to finish the seams on some unlined jackets. Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned pieces of fabric.

Lashing

The fastening of the inside seams of jacket and coat facings to the outer fabric or interlining in order to secure them in a specific position. Sewn by hand on bespoke garments or by a blind stitch machine on other garment types.

The button sewn on the inside of the left front on a double breasted jacket or coat, which fastens through the buttonhole on the edge of the right front to support the fabric which forms the overlap of fabric on the front.

Material used for the inside of a garment.

Linking

The process of joining knitted garment parts onto a linking machine before sewing together with a chain stitch.

A drawing or plan of the arrangements for all the parts to be cut for a garment.

10

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Bespoken

Lapel Roll

The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break (fold) of the collar to the first button. The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.

A standard measure equal to one fortieth of an inch by which buttons and ribbings are measured. Thus, a 40 ligne button measures one inch in diameter. The average measure used for jacket buttons is front button 36 ligne, cuff button 24 ligne.

Lining

Lay Pins

Jigger

Ligne

A number of layers of the same fabric in identical lengths one on top of the other in preparation for cutting multiple plies of fabric.

Lay Marker

The upper part of the front of a jacket or coat front which folds back onto the forepart. The length of the lapel extends from the gorge seam (collar) to the position of the first button.

The outer or fall edge of the top collar.

Lay

L Lapel

Leaf Edge

Thin steel pins approximately 10-15cm long with large heads. There are used to hold areas of the fabric stable during the cutting process, particularly multiple layers and check designs.

Lay Planning

The arrangement of pattern parts for a garment in order to obtain the most economic use of the material.

Laying Up

The process of spreading fabric to form a lay, often also termed ‘spreading’.

Lock Stitch

The lock stitch is the general type of stitch produced by a sewing machine. This is formed with two threads, a needle thread (upper thread) and a bobbin thread (lower thread) balanced so that the interlacing of the two threads is midway between the surfaces of the material being sewn.

There are other types of lockstitch that use more than one needle thread.

Loop Stitch

A type of hand stitch used for oversewing edges so as not to increase their thickness by having an edge turned in.

Looper

A stitch-forming part on a chain stitch machine that carries the thread to a required position.

Text: Alan Cannon-Jones Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Bespoken

I

11

From J to L We are proud to announce that our Tailor’s Dictionary will soon be published in the Romanian edition of the world-famous GQ Magazine.

An honour for both Scabal and its devotee, Alan Cannon-Jones of London College of Fashion.

J

Jet or Jetting

(also known in Ireland as a Jeet)

A narrow strip of fabric usually cut on the warp and then sewn parallel to the pocket opening, turned over and forming the pocket-mouth edge.

Jumper Press

A type of underpressing iron that is mounted on the end of a swing arm through which pressure can be applied by linkage to a foot operated pedal.

Used for pressing open seams.

K

Knee Lift

A lever under an industrial sewing machine which is operated by the machinist’s knee to lift the presser foot during sewing operations.

Jetted Pocket

A pocket normally found on the front of a jacket on which the edges are finished by the application of jettings (see above). This pocket often has a flap sewn between the jettings.

©F. Uyttenhove

Tailor’s Dictionary

Tailor’s Dictionary

Lap Felled Seam

A seam formed with the edges of both plies of fabric concealed by inter-lapping. Usually found on shirt side seams and also used to finish the seams on some unlined jackets. Two or more rows of stitches secure the turned pieces of fabric.

Lashing

The fastening of the inside seams of jacket and coat facings to the outer fabric or interlining in order to secure them in a specific position. Sewn by hand on bespoke garments or by a blind stitch machine on other garment types.

The button sewn on the inside of the left front on a double breasted jacket or coat, which fastens through the buttonhole on the edge of the right front to support the fabric which forms the overlap of fabric on the front.

Material used for the inside of a garment.

Linking

The process of joining knitted garment parts onto a linking machine before sewing together with a chain stitch.

A drawing or plan of the arrangements for all the parts to be cut for a garment.

10

I

Bespoken

Lapel Roll

The fall and curl of the lapel downwards from the break (fold) of the collar to the first button. The term ‘roll’ applies to a softer lapel finish.

A standard measure equal to one fortieth of an inch by which buttons and ribbings are measured. Thus, a 40 ligne button measures one inch in diameter. The average measure used for jacket buttons is front button 36 ligne, cuff button 24 ligne.

Lining

Lay Pins

Jigger

Ligne

A number of layers of the same fabric in identical lengths one on top of the other in preparation for cutting multiple plies of fabric.

Lay Marker

The upper part of the front of a jacket or coat front which folds back onto the forepart. The length of the lapel extends from the gorge seam (collar) to the position of the first button.

The outer or fall edge of the top collar.

Lay

L Lapel

Leaf Edge

Thin steel pins approximately 10-15cm long with large heads. There are used to hold areas of the fabric stable during the cutting process, particularly multiple layers and check designs.

Lay Planning

The arrangement of pattern parts for a garment in order to obtain the most economic use of the material.

Laying Up

The process of spreading fabric to form a lay, often also termed ‘spreading’.

Lock Stitch

The lock stitch is the general type of stitch produced by a sewing machine. This is formed with two threads, a needle thread (upper thread) and a bobbin thread (lower thread) balanced so that the interlacing of the two threads is midway between the surfaces of the material being sewn.

There are other types of lockstitch that use more than one needle thread.

Loop Stitch

A type of hand stitch used for oversewing edges so as not to increase their thickness by having an edge turned in.

Looper

A stitch-forming part on a chain stitch machine that carries the thread to a required position.

Text: Alan Cannon-Jones Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Bespoken

I

11

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

Scabal AUTUMN-WINTer 2009-2010 collection

A gentler, softer winter in store Elegant, formal and classic, the new Mandarin collection epitomizes the mood of Scabal’s winter lineup. Pure wool with 20% silk, the 260g cloth brings softness to winter wear, sharpened with a hint of shine.

Some of the 27 items add even more luxurious softness, with 5% cashmere.

Discreet, yes. It’s a sign of the times. But the new Scabal winter fabrics collection is as exclusive, luxurious and refined as ever. With more than 300 different designs from 11 quality ranges, there are some surprising new additions to the world of tailored elegance…

“We normally do this for summer,” explains Nora Kraemer, assistant to Scabal’s designer Michael Day. “It’s a popular cloth, so we’ve retained its wonderful soft comfort and made it a little heavier and darker for winter living. It is the milled, brushed quality that makes Mandarin that bit thicker and warmer, with a slight silky sheen.”

Mandarin

Loch Tay

Toison d'Or

Just in Time

“The patterns are discreet, with calm, classic, dark tones. We also pick up on the trend of ‘one on one’ colouring with some blues and greys: you see the tiny dots close-up, but further away it looks like a plain design.”

© Scabal

Diamond Chip, an example of Scabal high level creativity and technology

12

I

Bespoken

© C. Levêcque

Checks are back A second innovation is the Loch Tay jacketing collection. Soft, beautiful, almost like cashmere, this 340g fabric is 100% Super 150’s wool. Pure luxury and a choice of 27 items.

“Super 150’s luxury jacketing has sold well recently,” explains Nora, “so Scabal has created a new collection with a wider range. As the name suggests, natural shades and checks dominate.”

The Toison d’Or range has two qualities: 260g non-milled, clear cut, for yearround use; and a heavier, warmer 280g weave of Super 150’s and 10% cashmere, with a slightly milled or brushed finish.

Checks are coming back. For Loch Tay, Scabal has made a selection of shepherd designs, windowpane over-checks and classical glen checks in darker, sober colours with low contrast.

Designs for both cloths are discreet, dark and elegant. Some striped patterns have a flat ‘satin weave’ with less structure in the cloth, producing a more subtle striped effect and a noticeably more elegant fall to the cloth. Other designs in the line of 37 items feature checks – fancy but still classical – and more sophisticated shadow stripes.

“In contrast with the heavier look of this winter fabric, it feels light and comfortable to wear. We achieve this by making the inside of the garment particularly soft, through the use of a non-fused interlining so that the jacket hangs more comfortably.”

While on the subject of top-of-therange Super 150’s wool, Scabal will also introduce Toison d’Or fabric in the winter 2009 collection. Its fine quality with subtle design work makes it an exceptionally elegant line in the classical, timeless tradition.

What’s in a name?

A five-star restaurant that serves caviar and lobster also produces a good homecooked meal from time to time. It is a question of taste and timing. This is why the name ‘Just in Time’ was chosen for Scabal’s new mid-range wool suit collection for winter 2009. Alongside the sophisticated luxurious fabrics, the time was right to add a more basic, harder-wearing cloth collection.

Scabal: A passion for cloth

Back (up) to basics A fourth new line for winter is Just in Time: 320g pure wool suiting in mid- to lower-range luxury clothing. It is a two-ply in warp and weft – giving a stronger, harderwearing cloth, ideal for everyday use.

Designs for both cloths are discreet, dark and elegant “Just in Time meets a ‘back to basics’ trend,” says Kraemer. “When times are difficult or worrying, people tend to go back to what they know and trust, rather than try something new. Just in Time is a high-quality reliable cloth with no surprises. We have matched it with a classical design of English checks and discreet pin stripes across the whole range.”

Nigel Bishop

Bespoken

I

13

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

Scabal AUTUMN-WINTer 2009-2010 collection

A gentler, softer winter in store Elegant, formal and classic, the new Mandarin collection epitomizes the mood of Scabal’s winter lineup. Pure wool with 20% silk, the 260g cloth brings softness to winter wear, sharpened with a hint of shine.

Some of the 27 items add even more luxurious softness, with 5% cashmere.

Discreet, yes. It’s a sign of the times. But the new Scabal winter fabrics collection is as exclusive, luxurious and refined as ever. With more than 300 different designs from 11 quality ranges, there are some surprising new additions to the world of tailored elegance…

“We normally do this for summer,” explains Nora Kraemer, assistant to Scabal’s designer Michael Day. “It’s a popular cloth, so we’ve retained its wonderful soft comfort and made it a little heavier and darker for winter living. It is the milled, brushed quality that makes Mandarin that bit thicker and warmer, with a slight silky sheen.”

Mandarin

Loch Tay

Toison d'Or

Just in Time

“The patterns are discreet, with calm, classic, dark tones. We also pick up on the trend of ‘one on one’ colouring with some blues and greys: you see the tiny dots close-up, but further away it looks like a plain design.”

© Scabal

Diamond Chip, an example of Scabal high level creativity and technology

12

I

Bespoken

© C. Levêcque

Checks are back A second innovation is the Loch Tay jacketing collection. Soft, beautiful, almost like cashmere, this 340g fabric is 100% Super 150’s wool. Pure luxury and a choice of 27 items.

“Super 150’s luxury jacketing has sold well recently,” explains Nora, “so Scabal has created a new collection with a wider range. As the name suggests, natural shades and checks dominate.”

The Toison d’Or range has two qualities: 260g non-milled, clear cut, for yearround use; and a heavier, warmer 280g weave of Super 150’s and 10% cashmere, with a slightly milled or brushed finish.

Checks are coming back. For Loch Tay, Scabal has made a selection of shepherd designs, windowpane over-checks and classical glen checks in darker, sober colours with low contrast.

Designs for both cloths are discreet, dark and elegant. Some striped patterns have a flat ‘satin weave’ with less structure in the cloth, producing a more subtle striped effect and a noticeably more elegant fall to the cloth. Other designs in the line of 37 items feature checks – fancy but still classical – and more sophisticated shadow stripes.

“In contrast with the heavier look of this winter fabric, it feels light and comfortable to wear. We achieve this by making the inside of the garment particularly soft, through the use of a non-fused interlining so that the jacket hangs more comfortably.”

While on the subject of top-of-therange Super 150’s wool, Scabal will also introduce Toison d’Or fabric in the winter 2009 collection. Its fine quality with subtle design work makes it an exceptionally elegant line in the classical, timeless tradition.

What’s in a name?

A five-star restaurant that serves caviar and lobster also produces a good homecooked meal from time to time. It is a question of taste and timing. This is why the name ‘Just in Time’ was chosen for Scabal’s new mid-range wool suit collection for winter 2009. Alongside the sophisticated luxurious fabrics, the time was right to add a more basic, harder-wearing cloth collection.

Scabal: A passion for cloth

Back (up) to basics A fourth new line for winter is Just in Time: 320g pure wool suiting in mid- to lower-range luxury clothing. It is a two-ply in warp and weft – giving a stronger, harderwearing cloth, ideal for everyday use.

Designs for both cloths are discreet, dark and elegant “Just in Time meets a ‘back to basics’ trend,” says Kraemer. “When times are difficult or worrying, people tend to go back to what they know and trust, rather than try something new. Just in Time is a high-quality reliable cloth with no surprises. We have matched it with a classical design of English checks and discreet pin stripes across the whole range.”

Nigel Bishop

Bespoken

I

13

Text & selection by Jérôme Stéfanski

TEMPTATIONS

raidillon a homage

MY BESPOKE OFFICE

1

2

Customobili

Ideal for those times when you want to change your workspace on a whim, the Customobili brand has come up with the ingenious idea of a collection of customizable armchairs, settees and couches. Detachable and interchangeable, the double-faced frontispiece, placed in the centre of the furniture can be personalized according to your wishes. The possibilities and combinations are endless, and the star attraction can even be covered with fabric of the customer’s choice! A unique opportunity to make your office ‘hyper’, ‘arty’, ‘flashy’, ‘British’, or whatever your heart desires…

Armchair from 1,650 € www.customobili.com

4

“I realized that most limited-edition fountain pens are kept in mint condition – never filled with ink or used to write a single word. My pens are made as working writing instruments, and I hope some will be used and enjoyed on a daily basis for both their handling and aesthetic beauty...” As his quote proves, Henry Charles Simpole is passionate about his product. What began as a hobby quickly became a successful business for this Londoner, who’s a specialist in bespoke pens. A true work of art, to be discovered on his website…

Bespoke pens in 925 silver from 1,345 € www.henrysimpole.com

3

I

Bespoken

finest

hour.

El Casco

Made in the north of Spain, in the Pays Basque area, Bureau El Casco accessories are probably the best in their field. In 1920, a former weapons factory began producing top-of-the-range office equipment – every part, magnificently manufactured, is polished by hand at least six times and covered, via galvanization, with various metals (alkaline copper and acid, copper and semi-bright nickel, 23.4ct gold bright nickel and chromium plate). Each product can be entirely dismantled for repair, and is thus a gift for life.

In addition, all the equipment can be personalized with the engraving of the name of its owner or initials, and the most popular products, the M5 and M15 staplers, even have their own unique laser-engraved serial number, thus revealing their indisputable origins.

Price on request www.el-casco.es

Moleskine

Formerly made by a French craftsman, Moleskine notebooks have been used by the greatest of artists, from Van Gogh to Matisse, with Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso and Bruce Chatwin other notable converts. In 1997, a small Milanese publisher, armed with superb marketing skills, brought the legendary notebook back to life, and selected this name, with its literary pedigree, to revive an extraordinary tradition. The result? Twelve years on, anyone who’s anyone in the arts owns one of these legendary journals. Moleskine places great emphasis on the value of “personal identity”, and offers their customers many ways of personalizing their notebooks, with ‘My Moleskine’ (go online to express your creativity) and Custom Editions (made-to-measure for companies). And, for those who like to travel, Moleskine have come up with Moleskine City, the first travel guide that you can write yourself!

Each city edition includes a page where you can add basic information, updates and curious facts. Then, it is up to you to fill the empty spaces with your own anecdotes, top addresses, discoveries, and so forth. A formidable tool to entrust to your friends when they move abroad, so that they too can contribute to your personalized guide!

Simple but brilliant – why did no-one think of it before?

Moleskine City from 18 € www.moleskine.com 14

to the automobile’s

Henry Simpole

Leeming Brothers

5

The famous Smythson brand is beauty on paper – and you can read all about it in Bespoken IV, page 9. While it is true that England abounds with quality bespoke stationery, the Leeming Brothers are a class apart. Using a very complex printing process and controlling every stage of production, Leeming Brothers offer highquality products at very reasonable prices.

It’s all about the engraved printing – die stamping – in which the text is printed with engraved copper dies and embellished on the paper. It’s simply the best there is.

Rumour has it that none other than the Queen of England is a big fan…

200 classic letterheads from 175 € www.leemingbrothers.co.uk

AutomAtic 38 mm chronogrAph in A limited e d i t i o n o f 5 5 . € 2 3 0 0

spa

l

brussels

l

paris

l

monaco

l

madrid

l

tokyo

w w w .r aid illon .be

Text & selection by Jérôme Stéfanski

TEMPTATIONS

raidillon a homage

MY BESPOKE OFFICE

1

2

Customobili

Ideal for those times when you want to change your workspace on a whim, the Customobili brand has come up with the ingenious idea of a collection of customizable armchairs, settees and couches. Detachable and interchangeable, the double-faced frontispiece, placed in the centre of the furniture can be personalized according to your wishes. The possibilities and combinations are endless, and the star attraction can even be covered with fabric of the customer’s choice! A unique opportunity to make your office ‘hyper’, ‘arty’, ‘flashy’, ‘British’, or whatever your heart desires…

Armchair from 1,650 € www.customobili.com

4

“I realized that most limited-edition fountain pens are kept in mint condition – never filled with ink or used to write a single word. My pens are made as working writing instruments, and I hope some will be used and enjoyed on a daily basis for both their handling and aesthetic beauty...” As his quote proves, Henry Charles Simpole is passionate about his product. What began as a hobby quickly became a successful business for this Londoner, who’s a specialist in bespoke pens. A true work of art, to be discovered on his website…

Bespoke pens in 925 silver from 1,345 € www.henrysimpole.com

3

I

Bespoken

finest

hour.

El Casco

Made in the north of Spain, in the Pays Basque area, Bureau El Casco accessories are probably the best in their field. In 1920, a former weapons factory began producing top-of-the-range office equipment – every part, magnificently manufactured, is polished by hand at least six times and covered, via galvanization, with various metals (alkaline copper and acid, copper and semi-bright nickel, 23.4ct gold bright nickel and chromium plate). Each product can be entirely dismantled for repair, and is thus a gift for life.

In addition, all the equipment can be personalized with the engraving of the name of its owner or initials, and the most popular products, the M5 and M15 staplers, even have their own unique laser-engraved serial number, thus revealing their indisputable origins.

Price on request www.el-casco.es

Moleskine

Formerly made by a French craftsman, Moleskine notebooks have been used by the greatest of artists, from Van Gogh to Matisse, with Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso and Bruce Chatwin other notable converts. In 1997, a small Milanese publisher, armed with superb marketing skills, brought the legendary notebook back to life, and selected this name, with its literary pedigree, to revive an extraordinary tradition. The result? Twelve years on, anyone who’s anyone in the arts owns one of these legendary journals. Moleskine places great emphasis on the value of “personal identity”, and offers their customers many ways of personalizing their notebooks, with ‘My Moleskine’ (go online to express your creativity) and Custom Editions (made-to-measure for companies). And, for those who like to travel, Moleskine have come up with Moleskine City, the first travel guide that you can write yourself!

Each city edition includes a page where you can add basic information, updates and curious facts. Then, it is up to you to fill the empty spaces with your own anecdotes, top addresses, discoveries, and so forth. A formidable tool to entrust to your friends when they move abroad, so that they too can contribute to your personalized guide!

Simple but brilliant – why did no-one think of it before?

Moleskine City from 18 € www.moleskine.com 14

to the automobile’s

Henry Simpole

Leeming Brothers

5

The famous Smythson brand is beauty on paper – and you can read all about it in Bespoken IV, page 9. While it is true that England abounds with quality bespoke stationery, the Leeming Brothers are a class apart. Using a very complex printing process and controlling every stage of production, Leeming Brothers offer highquality products at very reasonable prices.

It’s all about the engraved printing – die stamping – in which the text is printed with engraved copper dies and embellished on the paper. It’s simply the best there is.

Rumour has it that none other than the Queen of England is a big fan…

200 classic letterheads from 175 € www.leemingbrothers.co.uk

AutomAtic 38 mm chronogrAph in A limited e d i t i o n o f 5 5 . € 2 3 0 0

spa

l

brussels

l

paris

l

monaco

l

madrid

l

tokyo

w w w .r aid illon .be

Made-to-measure world

bringing together the expertise of both companies. As the founder of the Illy coffee company, Francesco Illy, designed and patented the forerunner of all modern espresso machines around 85 years ago, you can be sure that you have expert coffee-making knowledge right there in your kitchen.

How do you take yours?

© Illy

Once you’ve showered and shaved, slipped on your favourite suit-and-tie combination and are ready to face the working day, what next?

For the majority of people, the first thing that springs to mind is a good cup of coffee.

The University of Coffee in Trieste

© Sgi -Sxc.hu

At the beginning: Beans

O

ne only need look at the seemingly countless number of coffee shops and cafés to see that the coffee bean, from its humble beginnings south of the equator, has become an important part of many peoples’ day. ‘Coffee culture’ is in evidence everywhere, particularly around Europe and the Americas, with people meeting, socializing and working in coffee bars, particularly the ubiquitous Starbucks.

Bean there, done that A really good cup of coffee is something that can oil the wheels of business in many ways. Certainly, the first cup of the day – apart from providing the little caffeine ‘kick’ many of us enjoy so much – can really brighten up the morning.

And, as the day goes on, there will be the inevitable meetings to attend for most, and they can be made all the more 16

I

Bespoken

bearable by the offer of a rich, smooth cup of quality Java. Haven’t we all been to a gathering of some description and thought to ourselves: “That was very

good, but wasn’t the coffee terrible?”

Coffee is something that has to be ‘just so’ to ensure the right impression is made on colleagues and, in particular,

5 points that make your made-to-measure suit unique

5 points that make your bespoke coffee perfect

The choice of fabrics Wool, linen, mohair, silk, vicuna, cashmere, cotton, etc.

The choice of beans Arabica or Robusta from Brazil, Vietnam, Mexico, Guatemala…

The quality of the measurements The role of highly skilled tailors that makes custom tailoring unique.

The choice of roast Dark, for a strong, more bitter taste, light, for smoothness, or a combination of the two.

The range of options available Initials embroidered, contrasting undercollar, personalized buttons etc., which ensure the suit is unique.

Method of preparation Filter, capsules, percolator or, the ultimate coffee experience, your own espresso machine.

The way to build the suit The craftsmanship of traditional methods blended with modern technologies.

The blend Light-roasted Robusta, mediumroasted Arabica, a blend or a single bean, such as Jamaican Blue Mountain.

You Because obviously, your customized suit should reflect your personality.

You Because your coffee should ultimately be something you really enjoy.

clients. To offer your valued customer an inferior brew would be like suggesting his business was not very important.

It seems a trite point, but attention to detail is paramount, and for something that costs so little to provide, investing in a good coffee should be a matter of course. With so many different types of coffee, powdered, granulated, freezedried and of course, beans, as well as the many different varieties and strengths of roasting available, how easy is it to ensure you make the right choice? Most true coffee-lovers would say that it has to be freshly ground beans, but if the sales of coffee powders and granules are anything to go by, millions appear to believe differently.

The coffee you drink or serve can be favourably compared with the way you wish to be seen. If you are going to an important meeting, a party, or other social function where you need to look your absolute best, you could go in comfortable jogging clothes, an off-thepeg suit, or something tailored that fits just right and looks sensational.

It would be reasonably safe to assume that none of us would go for the first in the list. The second and third choices, however, are not so easy to separate.

Many people would view an ‘off-thepeg’ or ‘ready-to-wear’ suit as a poor second to a properly tailored, madeto-measure outfit – however, if you are lucky enough to be the right size for which the suit was made, it can look really good. Remember also that many of the best-known names in garment manufacturing have very good lines in high-quality ready-to-wear suits, made from very good cloth, and backed by many years of tailoring expertise.

Coffee in a hurry The same is true for coffee. Leaving aside the lower-quality instants, there are many solutions available for making good-tasting coffee for the home, business and professional markets. The home market variety, of which the Senseo and Nespresso are two of the more heavily advertised and better-known brands, provide real ground coffee in containers, which are simply placed into their machines, with the resulting brew produced in seconds. These are the ‘off-the-peg’ equivalents – not low-quality by any standards, but which offer a cleaner, more convenient way of making a good coffee quickly. For the coffeelover who wants a good cup in a hurry, they are the ideal choice. As both manufacturers offer a wide choice of blends and strengths, including decaffeinated, real coffee has never been so easy to prepare. And, with the industry’s big-hitters Illy and Lavazza producing their own coffeecapsule machines (Lavazza’s Blue or A Modo Mio and Illy’s iperEspresso), the line between off-the-peg and hand-tailored coffee is definitely becoming increasingly blurred.

If you don’t mind working a little harder for your drink, you could always opt for a semi-professional espresso maker. The luxury of such a machine is that you are able to choose or grind your own blend of coffee so it will always be exactly how you like it. Some of the best available are produced by the Gaggia company, the company behind many of the professional machines to be seen in coffee shops. Some are produced in conjunction with Illy,

The very best Illy has further claim to fame in coffee connoisseur circles – the University of Coffee, which was founded in Trieste. Here, at the home of the Illy company, training courses are offered to teach how to make not just good, but excellent coffee. With diplomas from Maestro Barista to Artista e Manager del Caffè, if you were ever concerned about the big coffee producers’ commitment to quality, worry no longer. There are now universities in major cities such as New York, Paris and Shanghai.

There are many solutions available for making goodtasting coffee for the home, business and professional markets Rather like the fabric blend and the cut and finishing of a custom-made suit, connoisseurs will tell you that it’s not about a single bean, or even a single roasting method. It’s about the subtle mixes, the nuance and the craftsmanship. Companies such as Lavazza and Illy have their own special blends of Arabica or Robusta coffee beans, as well as tried-and-tested roasting and production methods – this ensures that every cup you have will taste exactly like the last.

Whether one is better than the other or not, they leave the choice to you.

They go even further to promote their brands as a question of taste, with Lavazza’s Marketing Manager Giuseppe Lavazza on the record as saying: “With coffee, there isn’t any compromise. Either you like the blend, or you don’t.”

With all the choices of beans, roasts, blends and coffee-making equipment available, which one should you choose?

Simple – whichever suits you best.

Colin Moors Bespoken

I

17

Made-to-measure world

bringing together the expertise of both companies. As the founder of the Illy coffee company, Francesco Illy, designed and patented the forerunner of all modern espresso machines around 85 years ago, you can be sure that you have expert coffee-making knowledge right there in your kitchen.

How do you take yours?

© Illy

Once you’ve showered and shaved, slipped on your favourite suit-and-tie combination and are ready to face the working day, what next?

For the majority of people, the first thing that springs to mind is a good cup of coffee.

The University of Coffee in Trieste

© Sgi -Sxc.hu

At the beginning: Beans

O

ne only need look at the seemingly countless number of coffee shops and cafés to see that the coffee bean, from its humble beginnings south of the equator, has become an important part of many peoples’ day. ‘Coffee culture’ is in evidence everywhere, particularly around Europe and the Americas, with people meeting, socializing and working in coffee bars, particularly the ubiquitous Starbucks.

Bean there, done that A really good cup of coffee is something that can oil the wheels of business in many ways. Certainly, the first cup of the day – apart from providing the little caffeine ‘kick’ many of us enjoy so much – can really brighten up the morning.

And, as the day goes on, there will be the inevitable meetings to attend for most, and they can be made all the more 16

I

Bespoken

bearable by the offer of a rich, smooth cup of quality Java. Haven’t we all been to a gathering of some description and thought to ourselves: “That was very

good, but wasn’t the coffee terrible?”

Coffee is something that has to be ‘just so’ to ensure the right impression is made on colleagues and, in particular,

5 points that make your made-to-measure suit unique

5 points that make your bespoke coffee perfect

The choice of fabrics Wool, linen, mohair, silk, vicuna, cashmere, cotton, etc.

The choice of beans Arabica or Robusta from Brazil, Vietnam, Mexico, Guatemala…

The quality of the measurements The role of highly skilled tailors that makes custom tailoring unique.

The choice of roast Dark, for a strong, more bitter taste, light, for smoothness, or a combination of the two.

The range of options available Initials embroidered, contrasting undercollar, personalized buttons etc., which ensure the suit is unique.

Method of preparation Filter, capsules, percolator or, the ultimate coffee experience, your own espresso machine.

The way to build the suit The craftsmanship of traditional methods blended with modern technologies.

The blend Light-roasted Robusta, mediumroasted Arabica, a blend or a single bean, such as Jamaican Blue Mountain.

You Because obviously, your customized suit should reflect your personality.

You Because your coffee should ultimately be something you really enjoy.

clients. To offer your valued customer an inferior brew would be like suggesting his business was not very important.

It seems a trite point, but attention to detail is paramount, and for something that costs so little to provide, investing in a good coffee should be a matter of course. With so many different types of coffee, powdered, granulated, freezedried and of course, beans, as well as the many different varieties and strengths of roasting available, how easy is it to ensure you make the right choice? Most true coffee-lovers would say that it has to be freshly ground beans, but if the sales of coffee powders and granules are anything to go by, millions appear to believe differently.

The coffee you drink or serve can be favourably compared with the way you wish to be seen. If you are going to an important meeting, a party, or other social function where you need to look your absolute best, you could go in comfortable jogging clothes, an off-thepeg suit, or something tailored that fits just right and looks sensational.

It would be reasonably safe to assume that none of us would go for the first in the list. The second and third choices, however, are not so easy to separate.

Many people would view an ‘off-thepeg’ or ‘ready-to-wear’ suit as a poor second to a properly tailored, madeto-measure outfit – however, if you are lucky enough to be the right size for which the suit was made, it can look really good. Remember also that many of the best-known names in garment manufacturing have very good lines in high-quality ready-to-wear suits, made from very good cloth, and backed by many years of tailoring expertise.

Coffee in a hurry The same is true for coffee. Leaving aside the lower-quality instants, there are many solutions available for making good-tasting coffee for the home, business and professional markets. The home market variety, of which the Senseo and Nespresso are two of the more heavily advertised and better-known brands, provide real ground coffee in containers, which are simply placed into their machines, with the resulting brew produced in seconds. These are the ‘off-the-peg’ equivalents – not low-quality by any standards, but which offer a cleaner, more convenient way of making a good coffee quickly. For the coffeelover who wants a good cup in a hurry, they are the ideal choice. As both manufacturers offer a wide choice of blends and strengths, including decaffeinated, real coffee has never been so easy to prepare. And, with the industry’s big-hitters Illy and Lavazza producing their own coffeecapsule machines (Lavazza’s Blue or A Modo Mio and Illy’s iperEspresso), the line between off-the-peg and hand-tailored coffee is definitely becoming increasingly blurred.

If you don’t mind working a little harder for your drink, you could always opt for a semi-professional espresso maker. The luxury of such a machine is that you are able to choose or grind your own blend of coffee so it will always be exactly how you like it. Some of the best available are produced by the Gaggia company, the company behind many of the professional machines to be seen in coffee shops. Some are produced in conjunction with Illy,

The very best Illy has further claim to fame in coffee connoisseur circles – the University of Coffee, which was founded in Trieste. Here, at the home of the Illy company, training courses are offered to teach how to make not just good, but excellent coffee. With diplomas from Maestro Barista to Artista e Manager del Caffè, if you were ever concerned about the big coffee producers’ commitment to quality, worry no longer. There are now universities in major cities such as New York, Paris and Shanghai.

There are many solutions available for making goodtasting coffee for the home, business and professional markets Rather like the fabric blend and the cut and finishing of a custom-made suit, connoisseurs will tell you that it’s not about a single bean, or even a single roasting method. It’s about the subtle mixes, the nuance and the craftsmanship. Companies such as Lavazza and Illy have their own special blends of Arabica or Robusta coffee beans, as well as tried-and-tested roasting and production methods – this ensures that every cup you have will taste exactly like the last.

Whether one is better than the other or not, they leave the choice to you.

They go even further to promote their brands as a question of taste, with Lavazza’s Marketing Manager Giuseppe Lavazza on the record as saying: “With coffee, there isn’t any compromise. Either you like the blend, or you don’t.”

With all the choices of beans, roasts, blends and coffee-making equipment available, which one should you choose?

Simple – whichever suits you best.

Colin Moors Bespoken

I

17

Stylish accessories

SCABAL’s AUTUMN AND WINTER MUST-HAVES

18

I

Bespoken

“The rainbow is the thunder’s scarf.” – Jules Renard

“Don’t offer a tie to a man who has no shirt.” – English proverb

100% cashmere scarf Genuine leather, 100% wool-lined gloves 100% pure silk ties (left: Brighton Collection, right: Oxford Collection)

100% pure silk ties Centre (top and bottom) and top left: Brighton Collection Centre and bottom left: Bristol Collection 100% Merino wool pullover: Orlando Indiana Collection

Bespoken

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Stylish accessories

SCABAL’s AUTUMN AND WINTER MUST-HAVES

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“The rainbow is the thunder’s scarf.” – Jules Renard

“Don’t offer a tie to a man who has no shirt.” – English proverb

100% cashmere scarf Genuine leather, 100% wool-lined gloves 100% pure silk ties (left: Brighton Collection, right: Oxford Collection)

100% pure silk ties Centre (top and bottom) and top left: Brighton Collection Centre and bottom left: Bristol Collection 100% Merino wool pullover: Orlando Indiana Collection

Bespoken

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Photographer: by2 Photographers Production: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski

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“The knot is to the tie what the mind is to the man.” – François de La Rochefoucauld

“One judges a shirt by its collar and a man by his shirt.” – Madeleine Ferron, Le Baron Ecarlate

100% pure cashmere ties: Vulcano Collection

100% pure silk tie: Oxford Collection Shirt: Made-to-measure finest cotton shirt from Scabal’s collection

Bespoken

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Photographer: by2 Photographers Production: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski

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“The knot is to the tie what the mind is to the man.” – François de La Rochefoucauld

“One judges a shirt by its collar and a man by his shirt.” – Madeleine Ferron, Le Baron Ecarlate

100% pure cashmere ties: Vulcano Collection

100% pure silk tie: Oxford Collection Shirt: Made-to-measure finest cotton shirt from Scabal’s collection

Bespoken

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AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-2010 TRENDS

Men at Work

Working ‘9 to 5’

Dolly Parton’s famous song from 1980 immortalized an expression that now seems almost to belong to ancient history – 9 to 5. Nowadays, fixed hours are being increasingly replaced with individual management of working time. Is this a good or bad thing?

It’s up to you to – enjoy our homage to the past while we look to the future.

Jacket ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702401 Trousers ‘Ascona’ ref. 500705

AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-2010 TRENDS

Men at Work

Working ‘9 to 5’

Dolly Parton’s famous song from 1980 immortalized an expression that now seems almost to belong to ancient history – 9 to 5. Nowadays, fixed hours are being increasingly replaced with individual management of working time. Is this a good or bad thing?

It’s up to you to – enjoy our homage to the past while we look to the future.

Jacket ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702401 Trousers ‘Ascona’ ref. 500705

Comfort

Meetings, presentations, video conferences, interviews… looking your best is a must these days. The real challenge is staying comfortable while you perform. Fine quality Scabal clothing will keep your body comfortable and your mind razor sharp.

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702412

Double faced jacket ‘Trend’, ref. 801172

Comfort

Meetings, presentations, video conferences, interviews… looking your best is a must these days. The real challenge is staying comfortable while you perform. Fine quality Scabal clothing will keep your body comfortable and your mind razor sharp.

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702412

Double faced jacket ‘Trend’, ref. 801172

Perfection

Individuality

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702409

Jacket ‘Trend’, ref. 801172 Trousers Ascona, ref. 500709

In a perfect world, we would all have the perfect car, the perfect wife and the perfect job. In reality, we drive what we can afford, marry who we deserve and graft to pay the bills. But don’t despair; sartorial perfection is within your reach.

With bosses, clients and the office minefield, it’s difficult to get ahead in business, especially when you’re young. And yet there is a way to make your mark and start climbing the ladder – your look. Choose it carefully, never compromise on quality and be your own man. Then hire an assistant…

Perfection

Individuality

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702409

Jacket ‘Trend’, ref. 801172 Trousers Ascona, ref. 500709

In a perfect world, we would all have the perfect car, the perfect wife and the perfect job. In reality, we drive what we can afford, marry who we deserve and graft to pay the bills. But don’t despair; sartorial perfection is within your reach.

With bosses, clients and the office minefield, it’s difficult to get ahead in business, especially when you’re young. And yet there is a way to make your mark and start climbing the ladder – your look. Choose it carefully, never compromise on quality and be your own man. Then hire an assistant…

Dress up

“Opportunity is missed by most because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”

Thomas Edison was a smart man, shedding light on our lives in more ways than one.

But the wizard of Menlo Park got one thing wrong – whichever career you choose to pursue, there is never, ever a valid excuse for wearing overalls.

Jacket and cloth ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702401

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702411

Dress up

“Opportunity is missed by most because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.”

Thomas Edison was a smart man, shedding light on our lives in more ways than one.

But the wizard of Menlo Park got one thing wrong – whichever career you choose to pursue, there is never, ever a valid excuse for wearing overalls.

Jacket and cloth ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702401

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702411

Made-to-Measure

Company success may be built on teamwork but that doesn’t mean you have to abandon all forms of individuality, especially in the way you dress. Express yourself freely; let your personality shine through. Why settle for boring when you can be customized?

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702412

Jacket ‘Ascona’ ref. 500729 Waistcoat ‘Winter Cottons’ ref. 500626 Trousers ‘Arosa’ ref. 800890

Made-to-Measure

Company success may be built on teamwork but that doesn’t mean you have to abandon all forms of individuality, especially in the way you dress. Express yourself freely; let your personality shine through. Why settle for boring when you can be customized?

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702412

Jacket ‘Ascona’ ref. 500729 Waistcoat ‘Winter Cottons’ ref. 500626 Trousers ‘Arosa’ ref. 800890

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702407

Jacket ‘Ascona’, ref. 500729

Text: Nigel Bishop Photographs: David Hughes Design: Pierre Daras@BaseDesign

Suit ‘Lifestyle’, ref. 702407

Jacket ‘Ascona’, ref. 500729

Text: Nigel Bishop Photographs: David Hughes Design: Pierre Daras@BaseDesign

THE MAKING OF…

Student JOB

Meet the guy behind the lens

reMEMBER DALI

British photographer David Hughes has recently worked with Scabal for a second time, on the occasion of the 2009-2010 Autumn-Winter Collection launch.

A chance to discover the personality of this internationally acclaimed artist…

INTERVIEW Bespoken: State your full name, and date and place of birth.

David Hughes: No! What kind of question is that?! 32” waist, 7.5 shoe size…

A naughty Libran, trying to find the balance in my life.

What is the first thing you do when you wake up in the morning?

I can’t tell you that! The same thing the rest of the world does, I hope…

Describe your typical day.

I don’t have a typical day; that’s the beauty and the nightmare of what we do. To be honest, sometimes, I crave typical days.

Would you say that you have a specific style? How would you describe your work?

I don’t know! People seem to think I have a style. There is definitely a difference in what I do; for example, the use of lights, the long exposures, etc. And the evolution into other disciplines has also changed my style.

Why did you choose photography as your profession? And when did it all start?

I used to work on a production line in an oil drum factory. Funny things, production lines, and very humdrum days. I left the UK and made a living repairing yachts in Jersey and Gibraltar. So photography was far away from being a reality for me, yet.

Then I went back to the UK at the age of 22.

I found myself with no job and was forced to sign up to a back-to-work scheme, a stategenerated programme that encouraged unemployed people to find work. That’s when a career advisor suggested that I enroll in an arts foundation course, which sounded great because I figured there would be more girls there than in an oil drum factory, so

Who are your favorite photographers?

Who would you say inspires you most?

Any other influences?

A huge influence would be Raymond Moore, a British photographer who started his career as a painter. His main interest/ focus was landscapes, between reality and fantasy. Although there are no people physically there in his shots, he manages to create a sense of presence, which is an interesting emotion. Years ago, I used to go to the V&A [Victoria and Albert Museum], and at the time, you could request boxes full of Moore’s prints. They would give you a pair of gloves, and I would go through the box, looking at each image for hours.

Of course, I am open to all influences, whether they are films, books, art, or

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everyday life. It can come from anywhere or be anything; I just tend to go with the flow. I tend to surround myself with nice people—people I can work with, a team, the right team. You also need the right tools because you simply cannot do it on your own. Having said that, I do like my solitude. I believe it is essential to disappear and “ have a word with myself”.

It gives you time to breathe and put things into perspective. Collaborations take time, but are worthwhile in the end.

Where do you see yourself in 20 years?

On a golf course! Seriously, no idea.

Somewhere nice…

Describe the craziest photo shoot you’ve ever been on.

Ah…That would be when I was shooting the cover of Nick Cave’s album The Lyre of Orpheus. Tom Hingston, a good friend of mine, Nick Cave himself, and I, came up with a concept: that we would use both aesthetically beautiful images and others that would tend towards the slightly macabre. So we went to the UK’s south coast and were taking pictures of featherless birds when we saw this buff, sweaty man wearing a burgundy V-neck.

He sparked our intrigue so we approached his house, and it was full of parrots enclosed in individual incubators.

His partner, a very large woman, was nursing these baby parrots between her rather generous breasts to keep them warm.

A very rare and bizarre situation. When we developed the pictures, the birds looked like singing penises. So we opted for pictures of flowers for the album cover.

Who do you dream of photographing?

No-one in particular. I love people who have character, no matter how it manifests itself. I love people who make me laugh; they’re my favourite.

Interview first published on BaseNow, the blog of BaseDesign – www.basedesign.com

© S. Dali

David Hughes

it all made sense. Photography was part of the course. They gave me a 35mm camera and a bulk of film, a direction, an outline and I went along with it and learned by my mistakes. Then the teachers on the course pushed me to do more, until I did a BA and they funded my portfolio. From there, I went on to being an assistant at the Click Studios in London, where I was earning £25 per day and assisted several photographers.

That was 12-13 years ago. I did it for myself.

Everything fell into place and felt natural.

I enjoyed doing photography and had finally found a way of expressing myself. I was finally able to express all my nonsensical ideas. From the start, I knew I didn’t want to be in the oil-drum business, but photography wasn’t on the radar. I just had to find it, or it had to find me. Today I have slightly evolved into other disciplines such as sculpture and 3D work/animation. It’s more abstract than what I do in photography.

In collaboration with London College of Fashion bespoke tailoring students, Scabal recently launched an ambitious project to mark the 20-year anniversary of the death of Salvador Dali. Bespoken reveals the results.

One of Dali’s 12 drawings commissioned by Scabal in 1971

Bespoken

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35

THE MAKING OF…

Student JOB

Meet the guy behind the lens

reMEMBER DALI

British photographer David Hughes has recently worked with Scabal for a second time, on the occasion of the 2009-2010 Autumn-Winter Collection launch.

A chance to discover the personality of this internationally acclaimed artist…

INTERVIEW Bespoken: State your full name, and date and place of birth.

David Hughes: No! What kind of question is that?! 32” waist, 7.5 shoe size…

A naughty Libran, trying to find the balance in my life.

What is the first thing you do when you wake up in the morning?

I can’t tell you that! The same thing the rest of the world does, I hope…

Describe your typical day.

I don’t have a typical day; that’s the beauty and the nightmare of what we do. To be honest, sometimes, I crave typical days.

Would you say that you have a specific style? How would you describe your work?

I don’t know! People seem to think I have a style. There is definitely a difference in what I do; for example, the use of lights, the long exposures, etc. And the evolution into other disciplines has also changed my style.

Why did you choose photography as your profession? And when did it all start?

I used to work on a production line in an oil drum factory. Funny things, production lines, and very humdrum days. I left the UK and made a living repairing yachts in Jersey and Gibraltar. So photography was far away from being a reality for me, yet.

Then I went back to the UK at the age of 22.

I found myself with no job and was forced to sign up to a back-to-work scheme, a stategenerated programme that encouraged unemployed people to find work. That’s when a career advisor suggested that I enroll in an arts foundation course, which sounded great because I figured there would be more girls there than in an oil drum factory, so

Who are your favorite photographers?

Who would you say inspires you most?

Any other influences?

A huge influence would be Raymond Moore, a British photographer who started his career as a painter. His main interest/ focus was landscapes, between reality and fantasy. Although there are no people physically there in his shots, he manages to create a sense of presence, which is an interesting emotion. Years ago, I used to go to the V&A [Victoria and Albert Museum], and at the time, you could request boxes full of Moore’s prints. They would give you a pair of gloves, and I would go through the box, looking at each image for hours.

Of course, I am open to all influences, whether they are films, books, art, or

34

I

Bespoken

everyday life. It can come from anywhere or be anything; I just tend to go with the flow. I tend to surround myself with nice people—people I can work with, a team, the right team. You also need the right tools because you simply cannot do it on your own. Having said that, I do like my solitude. I believe it is essential to disappear and “ have a word with myself”.

It gives you time to breathe and put things into perspective. Collaborations take time, but are worthwhile in the end.

Where do you see yourself in 20 years?

On a golf course! Seriously, no idea.

Somewhere nice…

Describe the craziest photo shoot you’ve ever been on.

Ah…That would be when I was shooting the cover of Nick Cave’s album The Lyre of Orpheus. Tom Hingston, a good friend of mine, Nick Cave himself, and I, came up with a concept: that we would use both aesthetically beautiful images and others that would tend towards the slightly macabre. So we went to the UK’s south coast and were taking pictures of featherless birds when we saw this buff, sweaty man wearing a burgundy V-neck.

He sparked our intrigue so we approached his house, and it was full of parrots enclosed in individual incubators.

His partner, a very large woman, was nursing these baby parrots between her rather generous breasts to keep them warm.

A very rare and bizarre situation. When we developed the pictures, the birds looked like singing penises. So we opted for pictures of flowers for the album cover.

Who do you dream of photographing?

No-one in particular. I love people who have character, no matter how it manifests itself. I love people who make me laugh; they’re my favourite.

Interview first published on BaseNow, the blog of BaseDesign – www.basedesign.com

© S. Dali

David Hughes

it all made sense. Photography was part of the course. They gave me a 35mm camera and a bulk of film, a direction, an outline and I went along with it and learned by my mistakes. Then the teachers on the course pushed me to do more, until I did a BA and they funded my portfolio. From there, I went on to being an assistant at the Click Studios in London, where I was earning £25 per day and assisted several photographers.

That was 12-13 years ago. I did it for myself.

Everything fell into place and felt natural.

I enjoyed doing photography and had finally found a way of expressing myself. I was finally able to express all my nonsensical ideas. From the start, I knew I didn’t want to be in the oil-drum business, but photography wasn’t on the radar. I just had to find it, or it had to find me. Today I have slightly evolved into other disciplines such as sculpture and 3D work/animation. It’s more abstract than what I do in photography.

In collaboration with London College of Fashion bespoke tailoring students, Scabal recently launched an ambitious project to mark the 20-year anniversary of the death of Salvador Dali. Bespoken reveals the results.

One of Dali’s 12 drawings commissioned by Scabal in 1971

Bespoken

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35

Under the direction of Scabal, Director of Programmes Tailoring and Technology Alan Cannon36

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Bespoken

Jones (himself a regular Bespoken contributor) 20 students helped breathe life into a collection made exclusively with Scabal cloth. At the same time Scabal created a new Dali fabric collection, taking the 12 original drawings as inspiration.

Five questions to SCABAL SALES DIRECTOR NEIL HART Bespoken : What was the inspiration for the new Dali’s Fabrics collection?

NEIL HART: The 12 drawings owned by Scabal that Dali created exclusively for us in 1971 and, obviously, the success of the first collection.

How does this collection differ from the first?

We have 24 designs this time instead of 12, two for each drawing. Also, there is more emphasis on stripes and daring colours.

What type of fabrics did you use?

This time, the collection is at 300g, which is 20g heavier than last time. This was based on a specific request from customers worldwide.

Who are you aiming at?

The collection is aimed at avant-garde tailors and customers in Japan, North America, UK, Russia and selected customers in Italy and Germany.

Have your customers appreciated this latest initiative?

Yes, they are always looking for new ideas, styles and striking fabrics.

For more information and a video-history of the project, go to dali.scabal.com

© S. Papandropoulos (photographs) S. Dali (drawings)

A

s you may recall, in the previous edition of Bespoken we announced the launch of an ambitious international project involving Scabal and the students of London College of Fashion.

The inspiration was 12 original drawings created in 1971 by Dali for Scabal and represented the artist’s view of man and fashion in the 21st-century. The goal was ambitious – to take Dali’s work as a starting point for a garment collection made according to the principles of bespoke tailoring.

A selection of the students’ work

Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

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Under the direction of Scabal, Director of Programmes Tailoring and Technology Alan Cannon36

I

Bespoken

Jones (himself a regular Bespoken contributor) 20 students helped breathe life into a collection made exclusively with Scabal cloth. At the same time Scabal created a new Dali fabric collection, taking the 12 original drawings as inspiration.

Five questions to SCABAL SALES DIRECTOR NEIL HART Bespoken : What was the inspiration for the new Dali’s Fabrics collection?

NEIL HART: The 12 drawings owned by Scabal that Dali created exclusively for us in 1971 and, obviously, the success of the first collection.

How does this collection differ from the first?

We have 24 designs this time instead of 12, two for each drawing. Also, there is more emphasis on stripes and daring colours.

What type of fabrics did you use?

This time, the collection is at 300g, which is 20g heavier than last time. This was based on a specific request from customers worldwide.

Who are you aiming at?

The collection is aimed at avant-garde tailors and customers in Japan, North America, UK, Russia and selected customers in Italy and Germany.

Have your customers appreciated this latest initiative?

Yes, they are always looking for new ideas, styles and striking fabrics.

For more information and a video-history of the project, go to dali.scabal.com

© S. Papandropoulos (photographs) S. Dali (drawings)

A

s you may recall, in the previous edition of Bespoken we announced the launch of an ambitious international project involving Scabal and the students of London College of Fashion.

The inspiration was 12 original drawings created in 1971 by Dali for Scabal and represented the artist’s view of man and fashion in the 21st-century. The goal was ambitious – to take Dali’s work as a starting point for a garment collection made according to the principles of bespoke tailoring.

A selection of the students’ work

Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

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GENTLEMEN'S MEETING

Lech Walesa: Life of a former president

superyachtliving*

© Corresponsaldepaz.org

For Bespoken, Scabal’s Polish representative Jan Spilliaert meets with the former president and Nobel Peace Prize winner Lech Walesa.

The largest selection of superyachts available for sale or charter is online at

www.camperandnicholsons.com Sale & Purchase New Construction Yacht Charter Charter Marketing Yacht Management Crew Placement Antibes +33 (0)4 92 912 912

Palma de Mallorca +34 971 40 33 11

Newport +1 401 619 0075

Monaco +377 9797 7700

Puerto Portals +34 971 67 92 47

Palm Beach +1 561 655 2121

Geneva +41 22 347 27 08

Fort Lauderdale +1 954 524 4250

Miami +1 305 604 9191

London +44 (0)20 7009 1950

New York +1 212 829 5652

www.camperandnicholsons.com

C&N marks are registered trademarks used under licence by CNI. Photo: Jérôme Kélagopian

T

he life of a former president of Poland is probably even busier than when he was in power – when we arrive at Nobel Peace Prize winner Lech Walesa’s Gdansk headquarters, there are TV and newspaper journalists in front of the building, in the elevator, and in Walesa’s secretary’s office.

However, our visit was a welcome change for the former president –

Lech Walesa

Jarek Konaszewski, Walesa’s personal tailor and our photographer for the occasion, Mateusz Strelau, who is one of Poland’s most promising young talents, were also on hand. Walesa immediately announces that his time is very limited – frankly, we didn’t expect it to be any other way.

He objects a little, saying that he has had several press teams visit him already this morning, and that he’s a little tired of the photo-shoots.

But Strelau is a pro, and he manages to get his pictures without bothering our subject.

Walesa chooses a fabric from the Diamond Chip and Sleek ranges – from experience, we know that Poland’s former president regularly orders fabrics from Scabal’s Royal Gaberdines collection. Grey or dark blue – these are his favourite colours.

Then, it was time for the interview.

Lech Walesa (by now seemingly in a much better mood): “Of course, questions, questions, questions. Shoot!

I am ready for my interrogation.”

Bespoken

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GENTLEMEN'S MEETING

Lech Walesa: Life of a former president

superyachtliving*

© Corresponsaldepaz.org

For Bespoken, Scabal’s Polish representative Jan Spilliaert meets with the former president and Nobel Peace Prize winner Lech Walesa.

The largest selection of superyachts available for sale or charter is online at

www.camperandnicholsons.com Sale & Purchase New Construction Yacht Charter Charter Marketing Yacht Management Crew Placement Antibes +33 (0)4 92 912 912

Palma de Mallorca +34 971 40 33 11

Newport +1 401 619 0075

Monaco +377 9797 7700

Puerto Portals +34 971 67 92 47

Palm Beach +1 561 655 2121

Geneva +41 22 347 27 08

Fort Lauderdale +1 954 524 4250

Miami +1 305 604 9191

London +44 (0)20 7009 1950

New York +1 212 829 5652

www.camperandnicholsons.com

C&N marks are registered trademarks used under licence by CNI. Photo: Jérôme Kélagopian

T

he life of a former president of Poland is probably even busier than when he was in power – when we arrive at Nobel Peace Prize winner Lech Walesa’s Gdansk headquarters, there are TV and newspaper journalists in front of the building, in the elevator, and in Walesa’s secretary’s office.

However, our visit was a welcome change for the former president –

Lech Walesa

Jarek Konaszewski, Walesa’s personal tailor and our photographer for the occasion, Mateusz Strelau, who is one of Poland’s most promising young talents, were also on hand. Walesa immediately announces that his time is very limited – frankly, we didn’t expect it to be any other way.

He objects a little, saying that he has had several press teams visit him already this morning, and that he’s a little tired of the photo-shoots.

But Strelau is a pro, and he manages to get his pictures without bothering our subject.

Walesa chooses a fabric from the Diamond Chip and Sleek ranges – from experience, we know that Poland’s former president regularly orders fabrics from Scabal’s Royal Gaberdines collection. Grey or dark blue – these are his favourite colours.

Then, it was time for the interview.

Lech Walesa (by now seemingly in a much better mood): “Of course, questions, questions, questions. Shoot!

I am ready for my interrogation.”

Bespoken

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39

© M. Strelau

Lech Walesa is measured for two suits

Bespoken : Mr Walesa, would you please tell us what a retired president does to fill his days?

Lech Walesa: I spend half the year giving lectures abroad. Perhaps even a little more than half. The rest of my time I spend meeting people here. I meet young people, both abroad and in Poland, I have meetings with politicians, and with different authorities. So, I mainly meet youth, politicians and representatives of trade unions. The era in which we live requires new programmes and other structures, everything needs to be re-negotiated and discussed. There is definitely a need for change, and that’s what I am trying to convince the people I meet about. And of course I like to talk about the past, about our history.

People think of Lech Walesa as being the man successfully fought Communism. That’s what actually lead to your honour – but to whom would you give a Nobel Peace Prize?

Oh, that’s a good question. But frankly, I not only won the Nobel Prize, but tens of thousands of other prizes and rewards.

Now, regarding your question, in fact, I immediately would think of people who have already done their part in the past, 40

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Bespoken

and that, unfortunately, is automatically excluded when it comes to granting a Nobel Prize. The world has already forgotten about the people who I would consider as candidates. That’s a pity! Nobel Prizes go to people who are still alive. To people, who, in the case of the Nobel Peace Prize, are active in some specific part of the world, who often endanger their own lives for what they strongly believe in.

To people who are an example to this generation and those to come…

Exactly. To name just one – the former president of Bielorussia, Stanislaw Szuszkiewicz. Yes, definitely him!

Everybody has already forgotten about him – and, like him, many other people have been forgotten. That’s a shame.

A Noble Peace Prize is granted to someone with great merits in the past and with ambitions for the future. Therefore, we should look at those places where there are conflicts, and we all know that there are plenty of them.

How long have you been a Scabal customer?

Frankly, I think that my tailor knows the answer to that question much better than I do. I think it’s certainly already more than ten years. Whenever I need a suit, I contact my tailor, Mr Konaszewski, and we

either meet in his tailor shop in GdanskOliwa or in my office, or at home. He knows what kind of fabrics I like and he is always well prepared for our meetings.

When you met with, for instance, people like President George W. Bush, did you happen to talk about men’s fashion during the informal parts of your meetings?

We don’t have time for that! We have so many items on our agenda, during the formal and the informal part, that we haven’t any time left for this type of subject.

We have staff for that, and our loving wives. And that goes for all of us, I am afraid. Only when I retired as president did I begin to be more interested in what I was actually wearing, and I must say that I am very pleased with it.

Just between us, have you put on or lost weight since your first suit?

I can still wear my ‘presidential suits’. And, believe me; these suits are very nice to wear.

The fabrics are very good. This suit that I am wearing today, I also wore it yesterday, and last Friday when I was abroad. It still looks very fresh, and that’s what I very much appreciate in a suit.

Jan Spilliaert

© Tadeusz Luba

INTERVIEW

Revolutionary man: Snapshots from Walesa’s life

LECH WALESA’S CAREER

KEY DATES

In 1967, Lech Walesa worked as an electrician in the Gdansk shipyard ‘Lenine’. He took part in his first strike in 1970, and returned to the scene again in 1976 with his trade union activities. In August 1980, naval construction workmen protest against the rise in food prices. With Anna Walentynowicz, Walesa calls a general strike, which is honoured by 10-13 million workers. This national uprising brings about the birth of the Solidarnosc (Solidarity) trade union, in September 1980. In December 1981, after a coup d’etat ordered by General Jaruzelski, the government suspends the trade union, imposes martial law and arrests Walesa – he is imprisoned until November 1982. In 1983, Walesa wins the Nobel Peace Prize of Peace for his representation of the workmen who fought for their rights via peaceful resistance. He plays a big role in Poland’s democratic transition and in the establishment of a coalition government, in which Solidarnosc holds a majority. A devout Catholic, he is honoured by his compatriot Pope JeanPaul II. He is Poland’s president from 1990-95. In 2000, 2005 and 2008, he is accused of collaborating with the Communist secret police. He threatens to leave Poland if these charges are not dropped.

1943: Born in the German-annexed town of Popowo 1967: Worked as an electrician in ‘Lenine’ shipyard, Gdansk 1970: Took part in general strikes 1979: Meeting with Pope Jean-Paul II 1980: Solidarnosc formed 1981: Spends a year in prison following General Jaruzelski’s coup 1983: Wins Nobel Peace Prize 1983: U2 inspired by Walesa’s life to write the hit song New Year’s Day 1990-1995: President of Poland 2000: Loses general election and ends political career Bespoken

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© M. Strelau

Lech Walesa is measured for two suits

Bespoken : Mr Walesa, would you please tell us what a retired president does to fill his days?

Lech Walesa: I spend half the year giving lectures abroad. Perhaps even a little more than half. The rest of my time I spend meeting people here. I meet young people, both abroad and in Poland, I have meetings with politicians, and with different authorities. So, I mainly meet youth, politicians and representatives of trade unions. The era in which we live requires new programmes and other structures, everything needs to be re-negotiated and discussed. There is definitely a need for change, and that’s what I am trying to convince the people I meet about. And of course I like to talk about the past, about our history.

People think of Lech Walesa as being the man successfully fought Communism. That’s what actually lead to your honour – but to whom would you give a Nobel Peace Prize?

Oh, that’s a good question. But frankly, I not only won the Nobel Prize, but tens of thousands of other prizes and rewards.

Now, regarding your question, in fact, I immediately would think of people who have already done their part in the past, 40

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Bespoken

and that, unfortunately, is automatically excluded when it comes to granting a Nobel Prize. The world has already forgotten about the people who I would consider as candidates. That’s a pity! Nobel Prizes go to people who are still alive. To people, who, in the case of the Nobel Peace Prize, are active in some specific part of the world, who often endanger their own lives for what they strongly believe in.

To people who are an example to this generation and those to come…

Exactly. To name just one – the former president of Bielorussia, Stanislaw Szuszkiewicz. Yes, definitely him!

Everybody has already forgotten about him – and, like him, many other people have been forgotten. That’s a shame.

A Noble Peace Prize is granted to someone with great merits in the past and with ambitions for the future. Therefore, we should look at those places where there are conflicts, and we all know that there are plenty of them.

How long have you been a Scabal customer?

Frankly, I think that my tailor knows the answer to that question much better than I do. I think it’s certainly already more than ten years. Whenever I need a suit, I contact my tailor, Mr Konaszewski, and we

either meet in his tailor shop in GdanskOliwa or in my office, or at home. He knows what kind of fabrics I like and he is always well prepared for our meetings.

When you met with, for instance, people like President George W. Bush, did you happen to talk about men’s fashion during the informal parts of your meetings?

We don’t have time for that! We have so many items on our agenda, during the formal and the informal part, that we haven’t any time left for this type of subject.

We have staff for that, and our loving wives. And that goes for all of us, I am afraid. Only when I retired as president did I begin to be more interested in what I was actually wearing, and I must say that I am very pleased with it.

Just between us, have you put on or lost weight since your first suit?

I can still wear my ‘presidential suits’. And, believe me; these suits are very nice to wear.

The fabrics are very good. This suit that I am wearing today, I also wore it yesterday, and last Friday when I was abroad. It still looks very fresh, and that’s what I very much appreciate in a suit.

Jan Spilliaert

© Tadeusz Luba

INTERVIEW

Revolutionary man: Snapshots from Walesa’s life

LECH WALESA’S CAREER

KEY DATES

In 1967, Lech Walesa worked as an electrician in the Gdansk shipyard ‘Lenine’. He took part in his first strike in 1970, and returned to the scene again in 1976 with his trade union activities. In August 1980, naval construction workmen protest against the rise in food prices. With Anna Walentynowicz, Walesa calls a general strike, which is honoured by 10-13 million workers. This national uprising brings about the birth of the Solidarnosc (Solidarity) trade union, in September 1980. In December 1981, after a coup d’etat ordered by General Jaruzelski, the government suspends the trade union, imposes martial law and arrests Walesa – he is imprisoned until November 1982. In 1983, Walesa wins the Nobel Peace Prize of Peace for his representation of the workmen who fought for their rights via peaceful resistance. He plays a big role in Poland’s democratic transition and in the establishment of a coalition government, in which Solidarnosc holds a majority. A devout Catholic, he is honoured by his compatriot Pope JeanPaul II. He is Poland’s president from 1990-95. In 2000, 2005 and 2008, he is accused of collaborating with the Communist secret police. He threatens to leave Poland if these charges are not dropped.

1943: Born in the German-annexed town of Popowo 1967: Worked as an electrician in ‘Lenine’ shipyard, Gdansk 1970: Took part in general strikes 1979: Meeting with Pope Jean-Paul II 1980: Solidarnosc formed 1981: Spends a year in prison following General Jaruzelski’s coup 1983: Wins Nobel Peace Prize 1983: U2 inspired by Walesa’s life to write the hit song New Year’s Day 1990-1995: President of Poland 2000: Loses general election and ends political career Bespoken

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THE BESPOKE COACH

BESPOKE BUSINESS Formal or relaxed, with stripes, wool or cotton, jacket on jeans or three-piece suit, light or dark…it’s difficult to choose the perfect suit to wear to work, particularly as one has to select first thing in the morning! One thing is for sure – a well-made suit is a must for any businessman. For those who combine work with style, our Bespoke Coach offers invaluable advice to set you apart from colleagues and competitors.

H

ow uncomfortable does a man feel wearing a suit that doesn’t fit properly? But, on the other hand, what a joy it is to open one’s wardrobe in the morning, leaf through your suits, to ponder on whether to don the navy double-breasted tailored in soft, lightweight flannel or perhaps the dove-grey three piece in crisp mohair? What a horror it is to rush to a suit department during your lunch break, hoping for something for an upcoming sales meeting, but finding nothing that fits, but what pleasure to select from hundreds of possible fabrics, before finally choosing a cloth that’s just right. It is, after all, the great advantage of bespoke clothes – they fit body and soul so well, one can concentrate without distraction.

When business meets bespoke tailoring tradition Bespoke tailoring and business attire have been synonymous for some time – the office has always been the central arena for well-cut suits. Thus, tailors have long feared the day when a customer retires, because orders for dark two-piece suits tend to dry up soon afterwards. Fortunately, wearing individually made garments normally becomes such an important part of such men’s lives that they remain faithful to bespoke tailors for retirement wardrobes. Tailors, on the other hand, are also noticing changes in the nature of business dress – it is no longer restricted to classic dark shades or stripes, with gentlemen sporting a much broader variety of weights, colours and patterns than previously. Business wear now comprises the CEO’s navy super lightweight single-breasted power suit, the gallery owner’s grey check threepiece tweed and the custom-made red velvet jacket paired with black serge drainpipes for the editorial director of a men’s magazine.

© Scabal

Scabal AW 09-10, suit ‘Mandarin’, ref. 751577

42

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Bespoken

Many fabrics, many styles The higher the ladder a man climbs, the more important his clothes become. The value of a suit must not be expressed ostentatiously with designer suits that may indeed be expensive, but are not at all stylish – understated elegance is required in

high circles. Only the initiated will notice the exquisite cut of the suit, and no one but the tailor and the wearer will know the price of the fabric.

Those not in the know will simply have the impression of a suit that looks just right. Dark blue and grey remain the standard colours – patterns should be chosen with great care. The first choice in fibres is fine Merino wool – Mohair may be more resistant to creases (and thus a good choice for the frequent traveller), Cashmere lighter and softer, Vicuna even more luxurious and cotton or linen cooler in summer, but none of these will perform better than Merino in the boardroom when the suit has to be as tough and resilient as its wearer.

My personal favourite for business is grey sharkskin. It looks matter-offact, tough, very understated and timeless.

The weight of the cloth depends on the season but, as most offices are now air conditioned, many executives will select something between 240280 grammes. If one commutes to work, which is often the case, even for high-ranking executives in London, cloths should be picked accordingly.

Midweights that are woven from nottoo-fine fibres would be best suited to a train’s upholstery, while getting in and out of cabs also puts a strain on excessively light worsteds, so a midweight Super 130’s would be the best choice for an everyday suit.

Stripes are a business classic in London, with Brits tending to choose from slightly bolder varieties.

Pinstripes and ropestripes are also very well respected, but chalkstripes are worn on worsted only, as on flannel they are considered too continental. Windowpane checks too are a good alternative, though they are rarely used for business suits outside the US. Pick and pick, birds eye, nailhead, pinhead or herringbone are other well-worn standard suitings and small Shepherd checks or glenchchecks are popular business patterns in the US and France, with the Italians and British

preferring them for weekend wear or travel. Grey flannel has never ranked highly in Savile Row business suits, but in the US it has always been part of the executive’s wardrobe, as was immortalized in the title of the Sloan Wilson novel The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit. My personal favourite for business is grey sharkskin. It looks matter-of-fact, tough, very understated and timeless. It’s popular with tailors worldwide, and one can never tell whether a grey sharkskin has been cut in Vienna, Paris or New York.

In Italy, business suits are in fact more conservative than many believe.

Patterns are usually shunned, with charcoal and navy the staple for the well-dressed leaders of industry and commerce. Unlike their colleagues in Savile Row, Italian sarti love unlined or selflined suits to create a sense of lightness and softness. Omitting the lining also allows them to use slightly heavier cloths, even for summer suits.

Nevertheless Italians have pioneered the use of extra lightweight fabrics, which are still used with some reluctance by English tailors.

A very special suit for spring is favoured by businessmen in Northern Italy. Connoisseurs know the weave as Solaro. It was invented for the British troops in hot climates and has a tan, khaki or greenish colour on the outside, with red or yellow inside.

Milanese gentlemen love to don half lined Solaro suits in spring – in London, this would probably lead to raised eyebrows but well-dressed men in the US or on the continent give much credit to this sartorial extravagance.

In private life, one should be under rather than overdressed – in the business world, the opposite is advisable. Always dress your very best, because your clothes show where you are coming from and where you are heading. However, it is wise not to outshine one’s superiors, particularly at job interviews. Fortunately, no business suit is overtly costly and any classic suit would be right for an interview, as long as the colour chosen is dark and the pattern discreet.

Again, I would recommend sharkskin, because it appears business-like, while the actual quality of the material could be anything from a Super 100’s Merino to a Super 150’s Cashmere.

Bespoken

I

43

THE BESPOKE COACH

BESPOKE BUSINESS Formal or relaxed, with stripes, wool or cotton, jacket on jeans or three-piece suit, light or dark…it’s difficult to choose the perfect suit to wear to work, particularly as one has to select first thing in the morning! One thing is for sure – a well-made suit is a must for any businessman. For those who combine work with style, our Bespoke Coach offers invaluable advice to set you apart from colleagues and competitors.

H

ow uncomfortable does a man feel wearing a suit that doesn’t fit properly? But, on the other hand, what a joy it is to open one’s wardrobe in the morning, leaf through your suits, to ponder on whether to don the navy double-breasted tailored in soft, lightweight flannel or perhaps the dove-grey three piece in crisp mohair? What a horror it is to rush to a suit department during your lunch break, hoping for something for an upcoming sales meeting, but finding nothing that fits, but what pleasure to select from hundreds of possible fabrics, before finally choosing a cloth that’s just right. It is, after all, the great advantage of bespoke clothes – they fit body and soul so well, one can concentrate without distraction.

When business meets bespoke tailoring tradition Bespoke tailoring and business attire have been synonymous for some time – the office has always been the central arena for well-cut suits. Thus, tailors have long feared the day when a customer retires, because orders for dark two-piece suits tend to dry up soon afterwards. Fortunately, wearing individually made garments normally becomes such an important part of such men’s lives that they remain faithful to bespoke tailors for retirement wardrobes. Tailors, on the other hand, are also noticing changes in the nature of business dress – it is no longer restricted to classic dark shades or stripes, with gentlemen sporting a much broader variety of weights, colours and patterns than previously. Business wear now comprises the CEO’s navy super lightweight single-breasted power suit, the gallery owner’s grey check threepiece tweed and the custom-made red velvet jacket paired with black serge drainpipes for the editorial director of a men’s magazine.

© Scabal

Scabal AW 09-10, suit ‘Mandarin’, ref. 751577

42

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Bespoken

Many fabrics, many styles The higher the ladder a man climbs, the more important his clothes become. The value of a suit must not be expressed ostentatiously with designer suits that may indeed be expensive, but are not at all stylish – understated elegance is required in

high circles. Only the initiated will notice the exquisite cut of the suit, and no one but the tailor and the wearer will know the price of the fabric.

Those not in the know will simply have the impression of a suit that looks just right. Dark blue and grey remain the standard colours – patterns should be chosen with great care. The first choice in fibres is fine Merino wool – Mohair may be more resistant to creases (and thus a good choice for the frequent traveller), Cashmere lighter and softer, Vicuna even more luxurious and cotton or linen cooler in summer, but none of these will perform better than Merino in the boardroom when the suit has to be as tough and resilient as its wearer.

My personal favourite for business is grey sharkskin. It looks matter-offact, tough, very understated and timeless.

The weight of the cloth depends on the season but, as most offices are now air conditioned, many executives will select something between 240280 grammes. If one commutes to work, which is often the case, even for high-ranking executives in London, cloths should be picked accordingly.

Midweights that are woven from nottoo-fine fibres would be best suited to a train’s upholstery, while getting in and out of cabs also puts a strain on excessively light worsteds, so a midweight Super 130’s would be the best choice for an everyday suit.

Stripes are a business classic in London, with Brits tending to choose from slightly bolder varieties.

Pinstripes and ropestripes are also very well respected, but chalkstripes are worn on worsted only, as on flannel they are considered too continental. Windowpane checks too are a good alternative, though they are rarely used for business suits outside the US. Pick and pick, birds eye, nailhead, pinhead or herringbone are other well-worn standard suitings and small Shepherd checks or glenchchecks are popular business patterns in the US and France, with the Italians and British

preferring them for weekend wear or travel. Grey flannel has never ranked highly in Savile Row business suits, but in the US it has always been part of the executive’s wardrobe, as was immortalized in the title of the Sloan Wilson novel The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit. My personal favourite for business is grey sharkskin. It looks matter-of-fact, tough, very understated and timeless. It’s popular with tailors worldwide, and one can never tell whether a grey sharkskin has been cut in Vienna, Paris or New York.

In Italy, business suits are in fact more conservative than many believe.

Patterns are usually shunned, with charcoal and navy the staple for the well-dressed leaders of industry and commerce. Unlike their colleagues in Savile Row, Italian sarti love unlined or selflined suits to create a sense of lightness and softness. Omitting the lining also allows them to use slightly heavier cloths, even for summer suits.

Nevertheless Italians have pioneered the use of extra lightweight fabrics, which are still used with some reluctance by English tailors.

A very special suit for spring is favoured by businessmen in Northern Italy. Connoisseurs know the weave as Solaro. It was invented for the British troops in hot climates and has a tan, khaki or greenish colour on the outside, with red or yellow inside.

Milanese gentlemen love to don half lined Solaro suits in spring – in London, this would probably lead to raised eyebrows but well-dressed men in the US or on the continent give much credit to this sartorial extravagance.

In private life, one should be under rather than overdressed – in the business world, the opposite is advisable. Always dress your very best, because your clothes show where you are coming from and where you are heading. However, it is wise not to outshine one’s superiors, particularly at job interviews. Fortunately, no business suit is overtly costly and any classic suit would be right for an interview, as long as the colour chosen is dark and the pattern discreet.

Again, I would recommend sharkskin, because it appears business-like, while the actual quality of the material could be anything from a Super 100’s Merino to a Super 150’s Cashmere.

Bespoken

I

43

1.

2.

3.

5.

6.

4.

7.

8.

Your style reveals your personality and business approach 1. Sir Richard Branson (Virgin): Cool and crazy 2. Basketball player Tony Parker (NBA-San Antonio Spurs): Smart and trendy 3. Steve Jobs (Apple) & Bill Gates (Microsoft): Creative and rational 4. Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (Fiat-Ferrari): Dandy 5. Hamid Karzai, President of Afghanistan: Powerful 6. Satoru Iwata (Nintendo): Young and avant-garde 7. Russian businessman Roman Abramovitch: Rich and mysterious 8. Famous journalist Larry King (CNN): Experienced and professional

More adrenaline. Less fuel.

The luxurious new XF Diesel S powers from 0-100 in 6.4 seconds and delivers an astonishing 6,8l/100 km. Jaguar’s 3.0 Litre sequential twin-turbo engine and acclaimed 6-speed ZF automatic transmission set new standards for power and efficiency, emitting just 179g/km of CO 2 . Add in the XF’s outstanding dynamics, and there’s a new leader in

Tell me your job, I’ll find you a suit Different workplaces require different cloths. An architect who visits building sites several times a day might leave the worsteds aside and go for woolen cloths instead. Nowadays, worsteds have become the standard cloth for business and formal wear, whereas in the past, woolen cloth was what serious and trustworthy men wore. Woolen cloths are made of thicker and shorter fibres, they are softer, heavier and sometimes even a bit coarse but, on the other hand, they are much easier to tailor and very 44

I

Bespoken

comfortable to wear. As some of them are fairly soft, they are mainly used for jackets. A mix of wool and silk could be a good pick for a sports jacket. A pair of light cotton gabardine pants would be a good match, for a rather casual appearance. For a single-breasted navy blazer, one could choose an open weave, such as a hopsack paired with a pair of charcoal-grey trousers in a light worsted weave, for a slightly more formal look.

The more creative the job, the more freedom of choice it offers with regards to cloth and style. A journalist may

choose a fine corduroy in a pale peach colour for an unlined summer suit, while a photographer might have his khaki chinos custom tailored from silk gabardine. Arty professions also offer much freedom of choice – a gallery owner might await his customers in a pink and white seersucker suit or in a white shirt, blue cashmere denim pants and an off-white linen sahariana.

As with the business world, bespoke garments offer limitless possibilities.

Bernhard Roetzel

the race to be the best performance diesel in the world.

J A G U A R. B E

6,8 l/100 km. CO : 179 g/km. 0-100 km/u : 6,4 sec.

Average consumption Jaguar XF Diesel S : 2 Environmental information (KB 19/03/04): www.jaguar.be. Model shown features optional equipment. Give way to safety.

1.

2.

3.

5.

6.

4.

7.

8.

Your style reveals your personality and business approach 1. Sir Richard Branson (Virgin): Cool and crazy 2. Basketball player Tony Parker (NBA-San Antonio Spurs): Smart and trendy 3. Steve Jobs (Apple) & Bill Gates (Microsoft): Creative and rational 4. Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (Fiat-Ferrari): Dandy 5. Hamid Karzai, President of Afghanistan: Powerful 6. Satoru Iwata (Nintendo): Young and avant-garde 7. Russian businessman Roman Abramovitch: Rich and mysterious 8. Famous journalist Larry King (CNN): Experienced and professional

More adrenaline. Less fuel.

The luxurious new XF Diesel S powers from 0-100 in 6.4 seconds and delivers an astonishing 6,8l/100 km. Jaguar’s 3.0 Litre sequential twin-turbo engine and acclaimed 6-speed ZF automatic transmission set new standards for power and efficiency, emitting just 179g/km of CO 2 . Add in the XF’s outstanding dynamics, and there’s a new leader in

Tell me your job, I’ll find you a suit Different workplaces require different cloths. An architect who visits building sites several times a day might leave the worsteds aside and go for woolen cloths instead. Nowadays, worsteds have become the standard cloth for business and formal wear, whereas in the past, woolen cloth was what serious and trustworthy men wore. Woolen cloths are made of thicker and shorter fibres, they are softer, heavier and sometimes even a bit coarse but, on the other hand, they are much easier to tailor and very 44

I

Bespoken

comfortable to wear. As some of them are fairly soft, they are mainly used for jackets. A mix of wool and silk could be a good pick for a sports jacket. A pair of light cotton gabardine pants would be a good match, for a rather casual appearance. For a single-breasted navy blazer, one could choose an open weave, such as a hopsack paired with a pair of charcoal-grey trousers in a light worsted weave, for a slightly more formal look.

The more creative the job, the more freedom of choice it offers with regards to cloth and style. A journalist may

choose a fine corduroy in a pale peach colour for an unlined summer suit, while a photographer might have his khaki chinos custom tailored from silk gabardine. Arty professions also offer much freedom of choice – a gallery owner might await his customers in a pink and white seersucker suit or in a white shirt, blue cashmere denim pants and an off-white linen sahariana.

As with the business world, bespoke garments offer limitless possibilities.

Bernhard Roetzel

the race to be the best performance diesel in the world.

J A G U A R. B E

6,8 l/100 km. CO : 179 g/km. 0-100 km/u : 6,4 sec.

Average consumption Jaguar XF Diesel S : 2 Environmental information (KB 19/03/04): www.jaguar.be. Model shown features optional equipment. Give way to safety.

MY DREAM JOB

A QUESTION OF PASSION As children, some of us dreamed of being astronauts, others singers – few wished for the traditional ‘9 to 5’, moody colleagues and early-morning traffic jams. Here, then, speaking exclusively to Bespoken, are eight passionate men who are living their childhood dreams.

IDENTITY

IDENTITY

First name: Nelson Surname: Piquet Jr Profession: Formula 1 driver Date of birth: 25th July, 1985 Nationality: Brazilian

First name: Pierre Surname: Marcolini Profession: Chocolatier Date of birth: 12th July, 1964 Nationality: Belgian

CAREER

CAREER

The son of three-time Formula 1 World Champion Nelson Piquet, Nelson Piquet Jr discovered his passion for racing thanks to karting, before he becoming Formula 3 South American champion in 2002 and Formula 3 champion of Great Britain in 2004. In 2008, he began his Formula 1 career with the ING Renault F1 team. Coached by Flavio Briatore, he becomes a team-mate of world champion Fernando Alonso, in one of the world’s most prestigious teams, aged just 23. As young, handsome, rich and renowned icon, Piquet was quickly offered advertising contracts with international brands, such as with the very much in-vogue Pepe Jeans. But Nelson has kept his feet on the ground – he knows only too well how much work he has ahead of him to reach the level of the F1 greats…

When, aged just 14, Pierre Marcoloni declared to his mother that ‘traditional school’ no longer interested him and that he wanted to become a chocolatier, he could have had no idea of the empire that he was destined to create.

Voted World Champion Pastry-maker in 1995, Marcolini has revitalized the traditional image of Belgian chocolates with his mixture of quality, creativity and prestige.

In just ten years, he has opened outlets in the world’s most beautiful cities, from Brussels to New York, Paris, Tokyo and London. And Marcolini is not only an impassioned creative artist, he is also gifted with great management and marketing sense. Always looking to push the frontiers of his profession, he has recently launched ‘Marcolini Evolution’ – delightfully flavoured chocolates weighing only 6 grammes. Internationally recognized, it is even rumoured that he needs bodyguards in Japan…

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Nelson Piquet: Sometime

a pain... most times a pleasure.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being…

What I am – an F1 driver.

Monday morning at 9h, I… Would like to sleep, but I am in the gym.

Define the economic crisis…

If I had to choose a picture to illustrate the financial crisis and make a comparison with F1, I would say that the crisis is like making a mistake on your fast lap.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Too quiet.

My next project is…

Scoring points and making up for lost time this season.

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Bespoken

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Pierre Marcolini: Passion

and pleasure. No constraints – discovering new people and products.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being…

I always wanted to work as a cake- and chocolate-maker. When I was small, I was always trying to steal my brother’s dessert – I even used to offer him my toys in exchange…

Monday morning, 9h, I… I have already been up for three hours – I do stock-taking with my teams on how the weekend’s sales have gone. For me, in fact, the most important time of the week is not Monday, but Saturday morning. Along with my closest colleagues, we devote two hours to our upcoming projects. I enjoy Saturday, because everything is much calmer, and you can work twice as quickly!

A crisis is…

It is a good opportunity to ask questions of ourselves and to prepare for the future, particularly for a company such as ours, which has always enjoyed double-digit growth. A chance to work out long-term solutions and effective, durable strategies.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

A tireless perfectionist nutcase! They often say of me: “We don’t know what he eats or drinks, but he has endless energy!”

My next project is…

My work is ongoing. I do not want to be simply the world’s bestselling chocolate-maker; I want to be true to myself, to also choose the best raw materials, to make the chocolate that speaks of me.

IDENTITY First name: Paul-Loup Surname: Sulitzer Profession: Writer Date of birth: 22nd July, 1946 Nationality: French

capitalism has moved away from its original purpose. To earn money is a noble objective – but to speculate, I believe, is foolish.

I fully support the idea of anyone becoming rich thanks to his or her talent, but banks and financial institutions must be transparent.

In my opinion, this crisis will be overcome only when we remove technocracy – institutions must make way for creative talent. In the environment that has been created in the past 15 years, only the gangster bosses have security. However, since the early days of business, true economic capacity belongs only to the talented, because it is they who can change the world. My next book, which will deal with this very subject, will be called The Swindler.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Someone who’s reliable, open and creative, and who has a good business sense.

My next project is…

The book that I told you about before.

IDENTITY First name: Omar Surname: Munie Profession: Made-tomeasure handbags designer Date of birth: 1st July, 1986 Nationality: Dutch

CAREER A successful businessman and writer, Paul-Loup Sulitzer is at present the most popular living French writer. His works have been translated into more than 40 languages, and have sold more than 50 million copies worldwide. As a young man, Sulitzer already had great ambitions – at the age of just 21, he became France’s youngest company chairman, selling gadgets made in the UK to Middle-East markets. His books Money, King Vert, Cash! and Fortune were his most successful and launched a new literary genre – the financial western.

Certain media have attempted to taint Sulitzer’s reputation, with rumblings concerning alleged weapons sales Angola, unpaid taxes and even suggestions that he does not write his own books, but to little effect – the author has held his head high as he continues to live the dream…

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Paul-Loup Sulitzer: A

and passion.

never-ending source of pleasure

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

As a little boy, I always wanted to be an explorer. Today, I am satisfied, because I have lived like a multi-millionaire explore.

Who could ask for more?

Monday morning, 9h, I… …take an ice-cold shower, which wakes me up! I’ve done it every morning for years.

The economic crisis is… …very real because it is structural, what has happened is very serious. The world is currently experiencing this slum because

CAREER What man has never been curious as to the contents of women’s handbags? Omar Munie would be the man to ask.

This talented young designer has developed handbags, wallets and laptop cases in limited editions of 25 examples – better yet, he also organizes workshops in which ladies can work with him to create their own made-to-measure bags, and to personalize them to their heart’s content!

His absolute discretion is of course assured – his customers trust him with the details of their invaluable accessories.

All Munie’s creations are made with the finest-quality leathers from a tannery in the south of France. Available first in the Netherlands, Munie’s bags are now on sale in New York, Paris and Madrid.

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Omar Munie: Doing what

you love. Work for me is not seen as ‘work’, but the transformation of passion into tangible results.

This can be seen in my handmade bags that are made with the utmost care – even down to the smallest detail.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

A professional football player. I even made my own football shirts!

Monday morning, 9h, I… …make sure I am the first one in the office, ready for another day in which I plan to work every hour to its fullest, to keep my team happy and motivated.

Bespoken

I

47

MY DREAM JOB

A QUESTION OF PASSION As children, some of us dreamed of being astronauts, others singers – few wished for the traditional ‘9 to 5’, moody colleagues and early-morning traffic jams. Here, then, speaking exclusively to Bespoken, are eight passionate men who are living their childhood dreams.

IDENTITY

IDENTITY

First name: Nelson Surname: Piquet Jr Profession: Formula 1 driver Date of birth: 25th July, 1985 Nationality: Brazilian

First name: Pierre Surname: Marcolini Profession: Chocolatier Date of birth: 12th July, 1964 Nationality: Belgian

CAREER

CAREER

The son of three-time Formula 1 World Champion Nelson Piquet, Nelson Piquet Jr discovered his passion for racing thanks to karting, before he becoming Formula 3 South American champion in 2002 and Formula 3 champion of Great Britain in 2004. In 2008, he began his Formula 1 career with the ING Renault F1 team. Coached by Flavio Briatore, he becomes a team-mate of world champion Fernando Alonso, in one of the world’s most prestigious teams, aged just 23. As young, handsome, rich and renowned icon, Piquet was quickly offered advertising contracts with international brands, such as with the very much in-vogue Pepe Jeans. But Nelson has kept his feet on the ground – he knows only too well how much work he has ahead of him to reach the level of the F1 greats…

When, aged just 14, Pierre Marcoloni declared to his mother that ‘traditional school’ no longer interested him and that he wanted to become a chocolatier, he could have had no idea of the empire that he was destined to create.

Voted World Champion Pastry-maker in 1995, Marcolini has revitalized the traditional image of Belgian chocolates with his mixture of quality, creativity and prestige.

In just ten years, he has opened outlets in the world’s most beautiful cities, from Brussels to New York, Paris, Tokyo and London. And Marcolini is not only an impassioned creative artist, he is also gifted with great management and marketing sense. Always looking to push the frontiers of his profession, he has recently launched ‘Marcolini Evolution’ – delightfully flavoured chocolates weighing only 6 grammes. Internationally recognized, it is even rumoured that he needs bodyguards in Japan…

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Nelson Piquet: Sometime

a pain... most times a pleasure.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being…

What I am – an F1 driver.

Monday morning at 9h, I… Would like to sleep, but I am in the gym.

Define the economic crisis…

If I had to choose a picture to illustrate the financial crisis and make a comparison with F1, I would say that the crisis is like making a mistake on your fast lap.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Too quiet.

My next project is…

Scoring points and making up for lost time this season.

46

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Bespoken

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Pierre Marcolini: Passion

and pleasure. No constraints – discovering new people and products.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being…

I always wanted to work as a cake- and chocolate-maker. When I was small, I was always trying to steal my brother’s dessert – I even used to offer him my toys in exchange…

Monday morning, 9h, I… I have already been up for three hours – I do stock-taking with my teams on how the weekend’s sales have gone. For me, in fact, the most important time of the week is not Monday, but Saturday morning. Along with my closest colleagues, we devote two hours to our upcoming projects. I enjoy Saturday, because everything is much calmer, and you can work twice as quickly!

A crisis is…

It is a good opportunity to ask questions of ourselves and to prepare for the future, particularly for a company such as ours, which has always enjoyed double-digit growth. A chance to work out long-term solutions and effective, durable strategies.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

A tireless perfectionist nutcase! They often say of me: “We don’t know what he eats or drinks, but he has endless energy!”

My next project is…

My work is ongoing. I do not want to be simply the world’s bestselling chocolate-maker; I want to be true to myself, to also choose the best raw materials, to make the chocolate that speaks of me.

IDENTITY First name: Paul-Loup Surname: Sulitzer Profession: Writer Date of birth: 22nd July, 1946 Nationality: French

capitalism has moved away from its original purpose. To earn money is a noble objective – but to speculate, I believe, is foolish.

I fully support the idea of anyone becoming rich thanks to his or her talent, but banks and financial institutions must be transparent.

In my opinion, this crisis will be overcome only when we remove technocracy – institutions must make way for creative talent. In the environment that has been created in the past 15 years, only the gangster bosses have security. However, since the early days of business, true economic capacity belongs only to the talented, because it is they who can change the world. My next book, which will deal with this very subject, will be called The Swindler.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Someone who’s reliable, open and creative, and who has a good business sense.

My next project is…

The book that I told you about before.

IDENTITY First name: Omar Surname: Munie Profession: Made-tomeasure handbags designer Date of birth: 1st July, 1986 Nationality: Dutch

CAREER A successful businessman and writer, Paul-Loup Sulitzer is at present the most popular living French writer. His works have been translated into more than 40 languages, and have sold more than 50 million copies worldwide. As a young man, Sulitzer already had great ambitions – at the age of just 21, he became France’s youngest company chairman, selling gadgets made in the UK to Middle-East markets. His books Money, King Vert, Cash! and Fortune were his most successful and launched a new literary genre – the financial western.

Certain media have attempted to taint Sulitzer’s reputation, with rumblings concerning alleged weapons sales Angola, unpaid taxes and even suggestions that he does not write his own books, but to little effect – the author has held his head high as he continues to live the dream…

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Paul-Loup Sulitzer: A

and passion.

never-ending source of pleasure

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

As a little boy, I always wanted to be an explorer. Today, I am satisfied, because I have lived like a multi-millionaire explore.

Who could ask for more?

Monday morning, 9h, I… …take an ice-cold shower, which wakes me up! I’ve done it every morning for years.

The economic crisis is… …very real because it is structural, what has happened is very serious. The world is currently experiencing this slum because

CAREER What man has never been curious as to the contents of women’s handbags? Omar Munie would be the man to ask.

This talented young designer has developed handbags, wallets and laptop cases in limited editions of 25 examples – better yet, he also organizes workshops in which ladies can work with him to create their own made-to-measure bags, and to personalize them to their heart’s content!

His absolute discretion is of course assured – his customers trust him with the details of their invaluable accessories.

All Munie’s creations are made with the finest-quality leathers from a tannery in the south of France. Available first in the Netherlands, Munie’s bags are now on sale in New York, Paris and Madrid.

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Omar Munie: Doing what

you love. Work for me is not seen as ‘work’, but the transformation of passion into tangible results.

This can be seen in my handmade bags that are made with the utmost care – even down to the smallest detail.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

A professional football player. I even made my own football shirts!

Monday morning, 9h, I… …make sure I am the first one in the office, ready for another day in which I plan to work every hour to its fullest, to keep my team happy and motivated.

Bespoken

I

47

A crisis is…

If I don’t know what else to do. But, it’s a good thing that there’s always enough to do. I always remind myself that if I ever come to the point of standing still, then in reality I would be moving backwards. Thus, moving forwards is the only way to go.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am… …along the lines of driven and an all-round entrepreneur, I would say. Lately, they have been quoting my favorite Dutch battle cry: “We gaan knallen mensen!” (Roughly translated: Let’s make it happen, people!)

My next project is…

Adding more to the list of cities where my bags are currently sold.

I’m looking to establish more ties in Asia, since the demand there for exclusive bags is sky-high. So, Shang Hai, watch out for Omar Munie bags!

IDENTITY First name: Bernard Surname: Julémont Profession: Raidillon Watches founder Date of birth: 7th April, 1966 Nationality: Belgian

A crisis is…

We have not yet suffered a crisis, for several reasons. Raidillon operates with very few fixed overheads – our office and our shop is the same address. With a series that’s limited just 55 specimens, there will always be those people who are looking for individuality, scarcity and quality.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Since mid-March 2009, I have been in business with a financial investor, who is a sleeping partner. We each own 50% of the shares, so thus we must find agreement on everything. He is very passionate about watches as well and we need to be flexible and listen to each other’s ideas. We’re always brainstorming!

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Bernard Julémont: A

passion. I live the passion that’s borne of creativity and teamwork.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being … …a car designer. I particularly admire the work of Giugiaro, Michelotti, Frua and Pininfarina. I fell in love with watches when Swatch’s limited series ranges, drawn by artists, were on sale at the end of the 1980s.

Monday morning, 9h, I… There are no rules. I could be in front of my computer or on the telephone, on the way to a customer, supplier, a clock- and watchmaker or an event organizer.

48

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Bespoken

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am… …focused, determined, hard-working, passionate about what I do, highly professional and above all a perfectionist.

My next project is…

My next project is to prepare for a series of wine lectures in Sao Paulo-Brazil and Santiago-Chile in a few months time.

My next project is…

We are launching new Swiss-manufactured cases with clock technology which we are buying from independent craftsmen.

In particular, we are investing in the development of a new movement automatic stopwatch, which will be ready by 2010.

Raidillon will be thus a manufacturer with it own movementhouse, which will give us credibility at the high-end of the market, improve exports and allow us to return to the most beautiful outlets.

CAREER Created and designed by Bernard Julémont, Raidillon watches have been a huge success since their launch in 2001. The Raidillon name is already renowned among the world’s most elegant roadracing fraternity, Spa-Francorchamps. On this circuit, only 55 cars can begin each international race – for this reason, each Raidillon watch model is limited to only 55 invaluable specimens and, as in the racing racing-car world, there is no model number 13. The marque takes its inspiration from in the world of automobile racing, with a vintage spirit that bestows a timeless character to each watch made. They are based on Swiss movement, with both manual and automatic winding available, and enjoy an exceptional reputation.

Universal timepieces…

Define a crisis…

A crisis is something that happens to people who do not prepare for eventualities, lack organizational skills or do not plan things adequately. Obviously there are setbacks, but a crisis is something that has not and hopefully will never happen to me.

First name: Michel Surname: Perry Profession: J.M. Weston creative director Date of birth: 1st January, 1952 Nationality: French CAREER

First name: Junior Surname: Dirceu Vianna Profession: Master of Wine Nationality: Brazilian

As a young boy, Michel Perry always dreamed of becoming a painter, but what his parents really wanted, above all else, was for him to takeover their small company selling Bata shoes. At 23, he joined the Académie des Beaux-Arts, but could not resist family pressure for long and came to work at the Bata factories a few months later, where he learned the trade from an experience shoemaker in just six months. From the 1960s onwards he created several models for famous Italian brands, before launching his own marque in 1987. In 2001, the legendary J.M Weston brand takes him on to revitalize their image. The results are swift — from tormented artist, Michel Perry is transformed into enlightened businessman and, today, continues to develop his own brand’s key outlet, located in Paris’ prestigious Rue Saint-Honore.

Being paid to drink wine – what man has never dreamed of such an exiting job? Our Brazilian friend arrived in the UK 20 years ago, where he discovered his passion while working at the Arches Wine Bar in Hampstead. Six years later, he began his oenology studies, which he has now pursued for 14 years.

A true workaholic, Junior gained his profession’s highest honour in 2008 when he became a Master of Wine – the first South American to earn such an accolade. The Master of Wine Institute was founded in 1953 and, to date, there are only 277 men and women who have demonstrated the highest standards of professional knowledge and are allowed to use the fabled MW after their name. Cheers!

Bespoken : Work is…

Junior Dirceu Vianna: Work

is where time flies. It is place where I get to share my knowledge and passion and get paid to taste, on average, one hundred wines per week.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

Like most little boys in Brazil, I always dreamed of being a world class footballer or a racing car driver.

Monday morning at 9h, I… …am leaving the gym and looking forward to my work. Job satisfaction means that I never get the ‘Monday morning blues’.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

I think they have respect for me and are also perhaps a little jealous…

My next project is… …to continue making the most beautiful collections for the great shoe brand that is J.M. Weston!

IDENTITY

IDENTITY

IDENTITY

CAREER

any pressure, and my goal is always to express what I want. I think that the economic crisis has imposed a return to legitimate values, particularly in luxury goods, that makes it possible to distinguish the fakes from the genuine article…

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Michel Perry: Passion

and art, art and passion.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

I wanted to follow an artistic path, in fashion, decoration or painting. I was particularly ‘ fond’ of women, and I quickly realized that shoemaking made it possible for me to approach women from a very sensual, intimate angle…

Monday morning, 9h, I… For me, Monday is a day like any other. I have a horror of work rituals, and I can work on Sunday, because, for me, work doesn’t stop because I am living my passion, and it’s difficult to assign timetables to passion. In fact, I don’t make any distinction between work and leisure…

A crisis is…

I do not feel any crisis in my work – I do not feel like I am under

First name: Jean-Louis Surname: Poiroux Profession: Spa des Cinq Mondes founder Date of birth: 1st October, 1965 Nationality: French CAREER Some ten years ago, at the time an international manager for L’Oreal, Jean-Louis Poiroux decided to devote himself to a long-imagined personal project. He had two passions that he shared with his wife – massage and the aromatherapy. For two years, the couple travelled the world, seeking out ancestral, ancient cosmetic formulas and becoming experts in the art of Eastern massage techniques. From India to Thailand, taking in Indonesia and Maghreb, they learned at the very best massage schools. In 2001, the couple returned to Paris and launch Spa des Cinq Mondes, a 500 square-metre spa devoted to relaxation in the centre of Paris. It was an immediate success – today, Spa des Cinq Mondes can now be found worldwide.

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Jean-Louis Poiroux: Invigorating.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being … …older, but now my age feels just right. But for how long?

Monday morning, 9h, I… …practice 30 minutes of Krya Yoga (a breathing-Yoga, taught by ONG – www.artofliving.org).

A crisis is… …a chance to get things in perspective, to take care of oneself, for once.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Exactly as they would want me to be, of course!

My next project is…

A partnership with a renowned Shiatsu Master who lives in New York.

Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

I

49

A crisis is…

If I don’t know what else to do. But, it’s a good thing that there’s always enough to do. I always remind myself that if I ever come to the point of standing still, then in reality I would be moving backwards. Thus, moving forwards is the only way to go.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am… …along the lines of driven and an all-round entrepreneur, I would say. Lately, they have been quoting my favorite Dutch battle cry: “We gaan knallen mensen!” (Roughly translated: Let’s make it happen, people!)

My next project is…

Adding more to the list of cities where my bags are currently sold.

I’m looking to establish more ties in Asia, since the demand there for exclusive bags is sky-high. So, Shang Hai, watch out for Omar Munie bags!

IDENTITY First name: Bernard Surname: Julémont Profession: Raidillon Watches founder Date of birth: 7th April, 1966 Nationality: Belgian

A crisis is…

We have not yet suffered a crisis, for several reasons. Raidillon operates with very few fixed overheads – our office and our shop is the same address. With a series that’s limited just 55 specimens, there will always be those people who are looking for individuality, scarcity and quality.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Since mid-March 2009, I have been in business with a financial investor, who is a sleeping partner. We each own 50% of the shares, so thus we must find agreement on everything. He is very passionate about watches as well and we need to be flexible and listen to each other’s ideas. We’re always brainstorming!

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Bernard Julémont: A

passion. I live the passion that’s borne of creativity and teamwork.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being … …a car designer. I particularly admire the work of Giugiaro, Michelotti, Frua and Pininfarina. I fell in love with watches when Swatch’s limited series ranges, drawn by artists, were on sale at the end of the 1980s.

Monday morning, 9h, I… There are no rules. I could be in front of my computer or on the telephone, on the way to a customer, supplier, a clock- and watchmaker or an event organizer.

48

I

Bespoken

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am… …focused, determined, hard-working, passionate about what I do, highly professional and above all a perfectionist.

My next project is…

My next project is to prepare for a series of wine lectures in Sao Paulo-Brazil and Santiago-Chile in a few months time.

My next project is…

We are launching new Swiss-manufactured cases with clock technology which we are buying from independent craftsmen.

In particular, we are investing in the development of a new movement automatic stopwatch, which will be ready by 2010.

Raidillon will be thus a manufacturer with it own movementhouse, which will give us credibility at the high-end of the market, improve exports and allow us to return to the most beautiful outlets.

CAREER Created and designed by Bernard Julémont, Raidillon watches have been a huge success since their launch in 2001. The Raidillon name is already renowned among the world’s most elegant roadracing fraternity, Spa-Francorchamps. On this circuit, only 55 cars can begin each international race – for this reason, each Raidillon watch model is limited to only 55 invaluable specimens and, as in the racing racing-car world, there is no model number 13. The marque takes its inspiration from in the world of automobile racing, with a vintage spirit that bestows a timeless character to each watch made. They are based on Swiss movement, with both manual and automatic winding available, and enjoy an exceptional reputation.

Universal timepieces…

Define a crisis…

A crisis is something that happens to people who do not prepare for eventualities, lack organizational skills or do not plan things adequately. Obviously there are setbacks, but a crisis is something that has not and hopefully will never happen to me.

First name: Michel Surname: Perry Profession: J.M. Weston creative director Date of birth: 1st January, 1952 Nationality: French CAREER

First name: Junior Surname: Dirceu Vianna Profession: Master of Wine Nationality: Brazilian

As a young boy, Michel Perry always dreamed of becoming a painter, but what his parents really wanted, above all else, was for him to takeover their small company selling Bata shoes. At 23, he joined the Académie des Beaux-Arts, but could not resist family pressure for long and came to work at the Bata factories a few months later, where he learned the trade from an experience shoemaker in just six months. From the 1960s onwards he created several models for famous Italian brands, before launching his own marque in 1987. In 2001, the legendary J.M Weston brand takes him on to revitalize their image. The results are swift — from tormented artist, Michel Perry is transformed into enlightened businessman and, today, continues to develop his own brand’s key outlet, located in Paris’ prestigious Rue Saint-Honore.

Being paid to drink wine – what man has never dreamed of such an exiting job? Our Brazilian friend arrived in the UK 20 years ago, where he discovered his passion while working at the Arches Wine Bar in Hampstead. Six years later, he began his oenology studies, which he has now pursued for 14 years.

A true workaholic, Junior gained his profession’s highest honour in 2008 when he became a Master of Wine – the first South American to earn such an accolade. The Master of Wine Institute was founded in 1953 and, to date, there are only 277 men and women who have demonstrated the highest standards of professional knowledge and are allowed to use the fabled MW after their name. Cheers!

Bespoken : Work is…

Junior Dirceu Vianna: Work

is where time flies. It is place where I get to share my knowledge and passion and get paid to taste, on average, one hundred wines per week.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

Like most little boys in Brazil, I always dreamed of being a world class footballer or a racing car driver.

Monday morning at 9h, I… …am leaving the gym and looking forward to my work. Job satisfaction means that I never get the ‘Monday morning blues’.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

I think they have respect for me and are also perhaps a little jealous…

My next project is… …to continue making the most beautiful collections for the great shoe brand that is J.M. Weston!

IDENTITY

IDENTITY

IDENTITY

CAREER

any pressure, and my goal is always to express what I want. I think that the economic crisis has imposed a return to legitimate values, particularly in luxury goods, that makes it possible to distinguish the fakes from the genuine article…

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Michel Perry: Passion

and art, art and passion.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being …

I wanted to follow an artistic path, in fashion, decoration or painting. I was particularly ‘ fond’ of women, and I quickly realized that shoemaking made it possible for me to approach women from a very sensual, intimate angle…

Monday morning, 9h, I… For me, Monday is a day like any other. I have a horror of work rituals, and I can work on Sunday, because, for me, work doesn’t stop because I am living my passion, and it’s difficult to assign timetables to passion. In fact, I don’t make any distinction between work and leisure…

A crisis is…

I do not feel any crisis in my work – I do not feel like I am under

First name: Jean-Louis Surname: Poiroux Profession: Spa des Cinq Mondes founder Date of birth: 1st October, 1965 Nationality: French CAREER Some ten years ago, at the time an international manager for L’Oreal, Jean-Louis Poiroux decided to devote himself to a long-imagined personal project. He had two passions that he shared with his wife – massage and the aromatherapy. For two years, the couple travelled the world, seeking out ancestral, ancient cosmetic formulas and becoming experts in the art of Eastern massage techniques. From India to Thailand, taking in Indonesia and Maghreb, they learned at the very best massage schools. In 2001, the couple returned to Paris and launch Spa des Cinq Mondes, a 500 square-metre spa devoted to relaxation in the centre of Paris. It was an immediate success – today, Spa des Cinq Mondes can now be found worldwide.

VISION Bespoken : Work is…

Jean-Louis Poiroux: Invigorating.

When I was little, I always dreamed of being … …older, but now my age feels just right. But for how long?

Monday morning, 9h, I… …practice 30 minutes of Krya Yoga (a breathing-Yoga, taught by ONG – www.artofliving.org).

A crisis is… …a chance to get things in perspective, to take care of oneself, for once.

My work colleagues and partners would say that I am…

Exactly as they would want me to be, of course!

My next project is…

A partnership with a renowned Shiatsu Master who lives in New York.

Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

I

49

AGENDA

THE GOURMET PLACE

SHOW TIME!

WHEELING AND MEALING

A made-to-measure lifestyle is big business – these shows and conventions will take you around the world of luxury.

It’s easy to assume that business happens only behind the heavy doors of a boardroom, but executives around the world concur that meeting over a meal can provide an added opportunity to cultivate important relationships and discuss high-level business matters in a less-formal setting.

Here, then, are five of the world’s top business-district dining spots for your next gourmet deal.

Salon Privé Haute Joaillerie Dubai 18-22 October 2009 Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Dubai www.diamondworld.net This invitation-only event gathers luxury retail companies and CEOs to meet with exhibitors of high-end jewellery and timepiece manufacturers from around the globe.

Salon nautique de Paris

Gourmet Food & Wine Expo 19-22 November 2009 Toronto, Canada www.foodandwineexpo.ca

Tefaf

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Bespoken

12-21 March 2010 Maastricht, The Netherlands www.tefaf.com

Baselworld

5-13 December 2009 Paris, France www.salonnautiqueparis.com Amateurs, enthusiasts and trade professionals will once again make their annual pilgrimage to this ultimate world of boating and water sports.

Art Brussels

The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF)

Luxury Travel Expo

Salon Nautique de Paris

New York, Harry’s Café

When the Michelin Guide bestowed three stars on this landmark Tokyo restaurant, it came as no surprise to the captains of industry and who had been frequenting the former Geisha house for years. The Japanese like to conduct business behind closed doors and Hamadaya, which opened in 1912, offers several private tatami-mat rooms for intimate or high-powered affairs.

Opened in 1972 by its namesake, a Greek immigrant Harry Poulakakos, Harry’s quickly became a gathering spot for Wall Street financiers who wanted to celebrate (or commiserate) over the market’s ebbs and flows. Harry’s was immortalized in novels such as Tom Wolfe’s Bonfire of the Vanities and Brett Easton Ellis’s American Psycho and is still the watering hole of choice for Wall Street warriors.

Expect thought-provoking technologies and innovative designs from international and domestic manufacturers alike at one of the world’s most prestigious auto shows.

The tiny Dutch town plays host to the world’s leading art and antiques fair where those in the field of fine art mingle among the thousands of masterpieces on display.

1-3 December 2009 Las Vegas, NV USA www.luxurytravelwest.com

Tokyo, Hamadaya

16-24 January 2010 Detroit, MI USA www.naias.com

The annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo offers enthusiasts a delicious opportunity to sample some of the world’s best wines, foods, beers and spirits.

This signature event for the luxury travel industry is the most established and influential event in North America and the only one that is solely dedicated to luxury travel.

Baselworld

The North American International Motor Show

18-25 March 2010 Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com

Nihonbashi Ningyo-cho, 3-13-5 Ningyo-cho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Tel: +81 (0)3 3661 5940 www.hamadaya.info

London, Coq d’Argent

Some 2,000 exhibitors present their latest products, innovations and trends at the world’s most important event for the watch and jewelry industry.

Art Brussels April 2010 Brussels, Belgium www.artbrussels.be Every year in April, Art Brussels welcomes more than 30 000 professionals, collectors and art lovers from all over the world. The fair is the European platform for upcoming talents in the field of contemporary art and focuses as well on strong established galleries representing a selection of their highest-quality paintings, sculptures, photography, video and installations.

From its penthouse position, Coq d’Argent is a London favourite and the place for power breakfasts, banker lunches and working dinners. When the day is bright, either financially or weather-wise, secure a spot on the rooftop garden offering optimistic views over the Square Mile.

1 Poultry London, UK EC2R 8EJ Tel: +44 (0)20 7395 5000 www.coqdargent.co.uk

Parkhuus is located in the luxury fivestar Park Hyatt Hotel and sits at the crossroads of Zurich’s financial and commercial district and the Bahnhofstrasse, one of the world’s most expensive and exclusive shopping avenues. Floor-to-ceiling glass puts the restaurant’s kitchen on display, in which frenzied chefs serve up international gourmet fare. Equally impressive is the two-storey wine library, which houses 3,000 bottles of the world’s finest and is available for high-stakes business meetings.

Beethovenstrasse 21 8002 Zürich, Switzerland Tel: +41 43 883 1234 www.zurich.park.hyatt.com

Buenos Aires, The Plaza Grill

One Hanover Square New York, NY 10004 USA Tel: +1 (0)212-785-9200 www.harrysnyc.com

Zurich, Parkhuus

The historic Plaza Hotel was the grande dame of Buenos Aires for most of the 20th century and its restaurant, the Plaza Grill, is the top choice for visiting dignitaries, local politicians and executives looking to eat while talking shop. Within walking distance of the city’s banking and business districts, the Plaza Grill, with its dark oak furniture and blue and white Dutch porcelain collection, is still the landmark location where power players come to lunch.

Marriott Plaza Hotel Calle Florida 1005 Buenos Aires, Argentina Tel: +11 (0)4590-8974 www.marriott.com Kimberley Lovato Bespoken

I

51

AGENDA

THE GOURMET PLACE

SHOW TIME!

WHEELING AND MEALING

A made-to-measure lifestyle is big business – these shows and conventions will take you around the world of luxury.

It’s easy to assume that business happens only behind the heavy doors of a boardroom, but executives around the world concur that meeting over a meal can provide an added opportunity to cultivate important relationships and discuss high-level business matters in a less-formal setting.

Here, then, are five of the world’s top business-district dining spots for your next gourmet deal.

Salon Privé Haute Joaillerie Dubai 18-22 October 2009 Madinat Jumeirah Resort, Dubai www.diamondworld.net This invitation-only event gathers luxury retail companies and CEOs to meet with exhibitors of high-end jewellery and timepiece manufacturers from around the globe.

Salon nautique de Paris

Gourmet Food & Wine Expo 19-22 November 2009 Toronto, Canada www.foodandwineexpo.ca

Tefaf

50

I

Bespoken

12-21 March 2010 Maastricht, The Netherlands www.tefaf.com

Baselworld

5-13 December 2009 Paris, France www.salonnautiqueparis.com Amateurs, enthusiasts and trade professionals will once again make their annual pilgrimage to this ultimate world of boating and water sports.

Art Brussels

The European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF)

Luxury Travel Expo

Salon Nautique de Paris

New York, Harry’s Café

When the Michelin Guide bestowed three stars on this landmark Tokyo restaurant, it came as no surprise to the captains of industry and who had been frequenting the former Geisha house for years. The Japanese like to conduct business behind closed doors and Hamadaya, which opened in 1912, offers several private tatami-mat rooms for intimate or high-powered affairs.

Opened in 1972 by its namesake, a Greek immigrant Harry Poulakakos, Harry’s quickly became a gathering spot for Wall Street financiers who wanted to celebrate (or commiserate) over the market’s ebbs and flows. Harry’s was immortalized in novels such as Tom Wolfe’s Bonfire of the Vanities and Brett Easton Ellis’s American Psycho and is still the watering hole of choice for Wall Street warriors.

Expect thought-provoking technologies and innovative designs from international and domestic manufacturers alike at one of the world’s most prestigious auto shows.

The tiny Dutch town plays host to the world’s leading art and antiques fair where those in the field of fine art mingle among the thousands of masterpieces on display.

1-3 December 2009 Las Vegas, NV USA www.luxurytravelwest.com

Tokyo, Hamadaya

16-24 January 2010 Detroit, MI USA www.naias.com

The annual Gourmet Food & Wine Expo offers enthusiasts a delicious opportunity to sample some of the world’s best wines, foods, beers and spirits.

This signature event for the luxury travel industry is the most established and influential event in North America and the only one that is solely dedicated to luxury travel.

Baselworld

The North American International Motor Show

18-25 March 2010 Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com

Nihonbashi Ningyo-cho, 3-13-5 Ningyo-cho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan Tel: +81 (0)3 3661 5940 www.hamadaya.info

London, Coq d’Argent

Some 2,000 exhibitors present their latest products, innovations and trends at the world’s most important event for the watch and jewelry industry.

Art Brussels April 2010 Brussels, Belgium www.artbrussels.be Every year in April, Art Brussels welcomes more than 30 000 professionals, collectors and art lovers from all over the world. The fair is the European platform for upcoming talents in the field of contemporary art and focuses as well on strong established galleries representing a selection of their highest-quality paintings, sculptures, photography, video and installations.

From its penthouse position, Coq d’Argent is a London favourite and the place for power breakfasts, banker lunches and working dinners. When the day is bright, either financially or weather-wise, secure a spot on the rooftop garden offering optimistic views over the Square Mile.

1 Poultry London, UK EC2R 8EJ Tel: +44 (0)20 7395 5000 www.coqdargent.co.uk

Parkhuus is located in the luxury fivestar Park Hyatt Hotel and sits at the crossroads of Zurich’s financial and commercial district and the Bahnhofstrasse, one of the world’s most expensive and exclusive shopping avenues. Floor-to-ceiling glass puts the restaurant’s kitchen on display, in which frenzied chefs serve up international gourmet fare. Equally impressive is the two-storey wine library, which houses 3,000 bottles of the world’s finest and is available for high-stakes business meetings.

Beethovenstrasse 21 8002 Zürich, Switzerland Tel: +41 43 883 1234 www.zurich.park.hyatt.com

Buenos Aires, The Plaza Grill

One Hanover Square New York, NY 10004 USA Tel: +1 (0)212-785-9200 www.harrysnyc.com

Zurich, Parkhuus

The historic Plaza Hotel was the grande dame of Buenos Aires for most of the 20th century and its restaurant, the Plaza Grill, is the top choice for visiting dignitaries, local politicians and executives looking to eat while talking shop. Within walking distance of the city’s banking and business districts, the Plaza Grill, with its dark oak furniture and blue and white Dutch porcelain collection, is still the landmark location where power players come to lunch.

Marriott Plaza Hotel Calle Florida 1005 Buenos Aires, Argentina Tel: +11 (0)4590-8974 www.marriott.com Kimberley Lovato Bespoken

I

51

IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

WE ARE FAMILY!

W

It is difficult to overestimate the value to a business of retaining experienced staff in terms of their overall contribution to profit, longevity and image. We meet the Scabal Sales Department, a perfect example of a team that has stayed together.

hilst for some the retention of such staff may not be possible, relevant or even crucial, it is something that Scabal highly prizes and is proud of. There will not be many companies that can boast an average length of employment service of 25 years. And yet, whilst keeping employees within the group is crucial to Scabal it is as important for the company to develop a sense of a family.

As CEO Gregor Thissen says: “It has always been of great importance to Scabal that we have established and maintain a sense of family within the structure of the group.”

The Sales Department This feeling of family can very much be seen in Scabal’s Sales Department.

Consisting of a core of six people, they are living proof that when it comes to being part of a vibrant, happy atmosphere the years just roll by. It might come as a great surprise to learn that, between them, they have around 157 years of experience.

© S. Papandropoulos

Scabal’s Sales Department: Luigi Manzone, Chantal Lambert, Christa Jacobs (back), Ana Cordeira (front), Muriel Vanhamme and Patrick Oderno

52

I

Bespoken

As a ‘junior’ member of staff with a mere 21 years of experience, Luigi Manzone affectionately refers to the team as ‘Jurassic Park’. Naturally alluding to the amount of knowledge situated in just one department, it is this that allows the company to provide to the client an experienced and efficient service, which in turn matches the very quality of the product.

within this the staff we have working at Scabal are an integral and essential part of the process.”

But it is not just the number of years that guarantees a unit works well, it is the individual members that make up that team. Within the context of the 120 staff, 19 different departments and more than 11 nationalities that constitute Scabal’s headquarters in Brussels, the Sales Department reflects the internationalism of the group.

People first The most experienced staff member is Ana Cordeiro, with 41 years of service.

Originating from Portugal, and dealing with such diverse markets as Argentina and Turkey, she encapsulates the family atmosphere that exists between them.

Citing this very ambiance as a crucial reason why she has enjoyed working at Scabal for such a long time, it is the common answer given by all of the department as to why its pleasure to work there.

However, other reasons also come forward. Both Christa Jacobs and Muriel Vanhamme, with 19 years each of service both enjoy being able to use their languages in their work. This very international aspect (the team speaks seven languages) and diversity of the work each day is of key importance to them, and with the other members of the team, ensure that any client from Russia to South East Asia to Japan is catered for.

This is at the very heart of Scabal’s philosophy in the way it conducts its business. The concept of a quality service for a quality product is paramount in the company’s thinking and as often the first port of call for a client, the Sales Department are absolutely key in this operation.

This view is echoed by the other two members of the team, Chantal Lambert and Patrick Oderno. Also being responsible for different geographical market areas, they are able to enjoy the nature of the work of which changes on a daily basis. While the premise of the team stays the same, every client enquiry is different. However, the overriding philosophy of Scabal, which is evident in everything the department represents, centres on the notion that a quality product deserves a quality service.

Thissen adds: “In the same way we take pride in our product, we place as much emphasis on the service we provide and

This is very evident when speaking to the Sales Department as is their sense of team spirit. They all answer questions

about their roles in the company and their thoughts on the working environment more or less in the same way but this is not due to any pressure or dictated corporate messages hung up in reception. It is because they all genuinely feel the same way and that this philosophy of which echoes the company is one that they appreciate and perhaps more importantly, believe in.

“We give a positive service which in turn gets a positive reaction from our clients,” says Patrick Oderno.

But of course with any regular family, it is made up of individuals. At Scabal they all share a common mindset and work process in providing a first-class service but lead varied lives outside of the office. Whilst horse-riding, cooking, embroidery and motorcycling are of interest to some, football is the one passion that is commonly shared

by Luigi and Christa although perhaps her love of Belgian soccer arguably sets her apart.

Their individual sides also crept into the workplace in that they all, when asked to choose one, named a specific product line that they particularly liked. Whilst Luigi identified the Saville Row influence of the No.12 suits and jackets, Ana the Lapis Lazuli cloth, Christa the Dali scarfs, Muriel the Capri fabrics and Patrick the complexity of the Gold Treasure range, it was Chantal who perhaps understandably identified the luxurious feel of the Vicuna range of fabrics as her favourite.

Without doubt, having 157 years of experience at a clients’ disposal, be it via the telephone, telefax or internet is an incredible resource not just for the customer but for the company itself. The loyalty shown and ultimately appreciated philosophy in how the business should be conducted is a credit to the atmosphere and work ethic of the Sales Department. One has the feeling that Scabal’s family atmosphere will continue for a long time to come…

Stephen Papandropoulos Bespoken

I

53

IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

WE ARE FAMILY!

W

It is difficult to overestimate the value to a business of retaining experienced staff in terms of their overall contribution to profit, longevity and image. We meet the Scabal Sales Department, a perfect example of a team that has stayed together.

hilst for some the retention of such staff may not be possible, relevant or even crucial, it is something that Scabal highly prizes and is proud of. There will not be many companies that can boast an average length of employment service of 25 years. And yet, whilst keeping employees within the group is crucial to Scabal it is as important for the company to develop a sense of a family.

As CEO Gregor Thissen says: “It has always been of great importance to Scabal that we have established and maintain a sense of family within the structure of the group.”

The Sales Department This feeling of family can very much be seen in Scabal’s Sales Department.

Consisting of a core of six people, they are living proof that when it comes to being part of a vibrant, happy atmosphere the years just roll by. It might come as a great surprise to learn that, between them, they have around 157 years of experience.

© S. Papandropoulos

Scabal’s Sales Department: Luigi Manzone, Chantal Lambert, Christa Jacobs (back), Ana Cordeira (front), Muriel Vanhamme and Patrick Oderno

52

I

Bespoken

As a ‘junior’ member of staff with a mere 21 years of experience, Luigi Manzone affectionately refers to the team as ‘Jurassic Park’. Naturally alluding to the amount of knowledge situated in just one department, it is this that allows the company to provide to the client an experienced and efficient service, which in turn matches the very quality of the product.

within this the staff we have working at Scabal are an integral and essential part of the process.”

But it is not just the number of years that guarantees a unit works well, it is the individual members that make up that team. Within the context of the 120 staff, 19 different departments and more than 11 nationalities that constitute Scabal’s headquarters in Brussels, the Sales Department reflects the internationalism of the group.

People first The most experienced staff member is Ana Cordeiro, with 41 years of service.

Originating from Portugal, and dealing with such diverse markets as Argentina and Turkey, she encapsulates the family atmosphere that exists between them.

Citing this very ambiance as a crucial reason why she has enjoyed working at Scabal for such a long time, it is the common answer given by all of the department as to why its pleasure to work there.

However, other reasons also come forward. Both Christa Jacobs and Muriel Vanhamme, with 19 years each of service both enjoy being able to use their languages in their work. This very international aspect (the team speaks seven languages) and diversity of the work each day is of key importance to them, and with the other members of the team, ensure that any client from Russia to South East Asia to Japan is catered for.

This is at the very heart of Scabal’s philosophy in the way it conducts its business. The concept of a quality service for a quality product is paramount in the company’s thinking and as often the first port of call for a client, the Sales Department are absolutely key in this operation.

This view is echoed by the other two members of the team, Chantal Lambert and Patrick Oderno. Also being responsible for different geographical market areas, they are able to enjoy the nature of the work of which changes on a daily basis. While the premise of the team stays the same, every client enquiry is different. However, the overriding philosophy of Scabal, which is evident in everything the department represents, centres on the notion that a quality product deserves a quality service.

Thissen adds: “In the same way we take pride in our product, we place as much emphasis on the service we provide and

This is very evident when speaking to the Sales Department as is their sense of team spirit. They all answer questions

about their roles in the company and their thoughts on the working environment more or less in the same way but this is not due to any pressure or dictated corporate messages hung up in reception. It is because they all genuinely feel the same way and that this philosophy of which echoes the company is one that they appreciate and perhaps more importantly, believe in.

“We give a positive service which in turn gets a positive reaction from our clients,” says Patrick Oderno.

But of course with any regular family, it is made up of individuals. At Scabal they all share a common mindset and work process in providing a first-class service but lead varied lives outside of the office. Whilst horse-riding, cooking, embroidery and motorcycling are of interest to some, football is the one passion that is commonly shared

by Luigi and Christa although perhaps her love of Belgian soccer arguably sets her apart.

Their individual sides also crept into the workplace in that they all, when asked to choose one, named a specific product line that they particularly liked. Whilst Luigi identified the Saville Row influence of the No.12 suits and jackets, Ana the Lapis Lazuli cloth, Christa the Dali scarfs, Muriel the Capri fabrics and Patrick the complexity of the Gold Treasure range, it was Chantal who perhaps understandably identified the luxurious feel of the Vicuna range of fabrics as her favourite.

Without doubt, having 157 years of experience at a clients’ disposal, be it via the telephone, telefax or internet is an incredible resource not just for the customer but for the company itself. The loyalty shown and ultimately appreciated philosophy in how the business should be conducted is a credit to the atmosphere and work ethic of the Sales Department. One has the feeling that Scabal’s family atmosphere will continue for a long time to come…

Stephen Papandropoulos Bespoken

I

53

SUIT THERAPY

caring for autumn and winter woolens

cleaning advice

One must consider that many overcoats are now lined with special protective films to create a moisture barrier. If your wool or cashmere overcoat states that it is waterproof, or has a ‘Storm System’, your garment more than likely has such a protective film. The technology used has improved greatly over the years, but care should be taken to ensure that it is not damaged. Only a specialist dry cleaner has the knowledge and ability to recognize this design component and great care must be taken to maintain its integrity.

possible insect damage. Even if you have used cedar treatments or moth balls during storage, deterioration is still possible. Typically, the damage is not noticeable until the garment is cleaned and the loose wool fibres are removed – you must always be sure to have all of your garments cleaned before and after long-term seasonal storage to ensure that the garment is free of moth larvae and damage. The type that damage clothing are small and difficult to spot – if you feel that you may have a moth problem, you must have all of your garments from that storage area properly cleaned and the closet must be thoroughly wiped down and treated by an exterminator. These pests can wreak havoc on the best of wardrobes.

Sweaters

Static Cling

Knitted tops or sweaters are particularly susceptible to wear under the arms, at the elbows, and around the collar and cuffs. A light brushing will remove the small balls – called ‘pills’ or ‘pilling’ – that are formed. The sooner you take care of these the better; the more ‘pills’ that are created, the faster they will enlarge and weaken that section of the garment. Be sure to keep your sweaters free of these pesky little pellets as they look poor and telegraph to others that your garment is deteriorating.

When temperatures drop the moisture or humidity in the air does likewise. When this occurs, static electricity from friction cannot move freely through the air, so it accumulates and creates a charge in your wools, in effect transforming your garment into a magnet. Skilled dry cleaners are aware of this and take care to ensure that the detergent used is properly calibrated, and texturizers are increased to minimize static cling. If you find yourself collecting lint and hairs from your pets and friends, you may want to keep a lint brush handy. There are also products such as Static Guard, a spray applied directly onto your garments to reduce the cling effect.

However, use such products with caution – with any spray-on agent,

Overcoats

As the colder months approach, the effects of the changing of the seasons become more apparent. Leaves change their colour, gas bills go up and, most significantly for the style-conscious, wardrobes by necessity become darker and heavier.

For casual wear, it’s far easier to grab a sweater or a comfortable jacket but, for the professional man, there is more to consider.

Storage

© Scabal

It is best to remove your winter garments from storage and have them cleaned and inspected thoroughly for

the possibility of leaving spots or stains is increased. Still, these products tend to be very successful at reducing the chances of getting a shock when putting on your wool trousers or favourite cashmere sweater.

Accessories You must always be cautious and insist that your dry cleaner remove all belts, collar straps, horn buttons and leather trims before treatment.

These items are susceptible to damage in the dry-cleaning process.

The cost of removing these items and replacing for cleaning is well worth it, as many are very difficult to replace and should be protected at all costs.

Stain Removal As with any garment, a stain should not be treated by the owner. You can dab the area with a dry cloth to remove the excess stain, then use cold water to dab the rest of the mark until most of the stain is removed. Note – do not rub it!

Many of the heavier wools used in the winter are short staple fibres, and rubbing will cause the area to wear and embed the stain into the weave. For what remains, go to a professional dry cleaner for treatment, which will increase the likelihood of a safe and successful removal of the stain.

Take care of your overcoat

T

ypically, professionals are likely to wear suits and overcoats with a wool and cashmere blend because of wool’s ability to trap hot air and keep warmth within the suit. Also, wool has excellent ‘moisture-wicking’ properties, pulling moisture into the core of the fibre so that it doesn’t feel wet or soggy. Wool pulls moisture away from the skin as well, 54

I

Bespoken

and is worn by people who prefer dry air next to the skin as opposed to clammy perspiration.

Wool should be dried flat at room temperature, not exposed directly to heat

WOOL GUIDES There are certain risks and points of note with regard to maintenance, of which it is important to be aware. To begin, one should select suits made from a winter wool or heavier weight flannels and, in general, wool should be allowed to rest between wearings, to retain its shape. Knitted wool should never be compressed or stored on hangers, which will stretch it.

Brushing wool will remove surface soil and stains before they are ground in,

and a slightly damp cloth will remove deeper stains. Wool should be dried flat at room temperature, not exposed directly to heat. Wool is a fabric perfectly suited for autumn and winter wear. With proper maintenance, your favourite woolen garments can last as long as they remain fashionable, probably longer.

World’s Best Cleaners’ Director of Business Development Christopher White, states: “It is vital to take your

fine garments to what we refer to as Couture Care Specialists – professional dry cleaners with years of experience and the technical know-how to deal with highend fabrics and styles. Everything from the cleaning to the finishing can make or break a good suit over time. Your suit is an investment, and we like to think of dry cleaners as akin to service departments in the automotive industry. As with mechanics, you get what you pay for.“

A list of Certified Couture Care Specialists can be found at the WBC site: www.worldsbestcleaners.com.

Christopher White

Bespoken

I

55

SUIT THERAPY

caring for autumn and winter woolens

cleaning advice

One must consider that many overcoats are now lined with special protective films to create a moisture barrier. If your wool or cashmere overcoat states that it is waterproof, or has a ‘Storm System’, your garment more than likely has such a protective film. The technology used has improved greatly over the years, but care should be taken to ensure that it is not damaged. Only a specialist dry cleaner has the knowledge and ability to recognize this design component and great care must be taken to maintain its integrity.

possible insect damage. Even if you have used cedar treatments or moth balls during storage, deterioration is still possible. Typically, the damage is not noticeable until the garment is cleaned and the loose wool fibres are removed – you must always be sure to have all of your garments cleaned before and after long-term seasonal storage to ensure that the garment is free of moth larvae and damage. The type that damage clothing are small and difficult to spot – if you feel that you may have a moth problem, you must have all of your garments from that storage area properly cleaned and the closet must be thoroughly wiped down and treated by an exterminator. These pests can wreak havoc on the best of wardrobes.

Sweaters

Static Cling

Knitted tops or sweaters are particularly susceptible to wear under the arms, at the elbows, and around the collar and cuffs. A light brushing will remove the small balls – called ‘pills’ or ‘pilling’ – that are formed. The sooner you take care of these the better; the more ‘pills’ that are created, the faster they will enlarge and weaken that section of the garment. Be sure to keep your sweaters free of these pesky little pellets as they look poor and telegraph to others that your garment is deteriorating.

When temperatures drop the moisture or humidity in the air does likewise. When this occurs, static electricity from friction cannot move freely through the air, so it accumulates and creates a charge in your wools, in effect transforming your garment into a magnet. Skilled dry cleaners are aware of this and take care to ensure that the detergent used is properly calibrated, and texturizers are increased to minimize static cling. If you find yourself collecting lint and hairs from your pets and friends, you may want to keep a lint brush handy. There are also products such as Static Guard, a spray applied directly onto your garments to reduce the cling effect.

However, use such products with caution – with any spray-on agent,

Overcoats

As the colder months approach, the effects of the changing of the seasons become more apparent. Leaves change their colour, gas bills go up and, most significantly for the style-conscious, wardrobes by necessity become darker and heavier.

For casual wear, it’s far easier to grab a sweater or a comfortable jacket but, for the professional man, there is more to consider.

Storage

© Scabal

It is best to remove your winter garments from storage and have them cleaned and inspected thoroughly for

the possibility of leaving spots or stains is increased. Still, these products tend to be very successful at reducing the chances of getting a shock when putting on your wool trousers or favourite cashmere sweater.

Accessories You must always be cautious and insist that your dry cleaner remove all belts, collar straps, horn buttons and leather trims before treatment.

These items are susceptible to damage in the dry-cleaning process.

The cost of removing these items and replacing for cleaning is well worth it, as many are very difficult to replace and should be protected at all costs.

Stain Removal As with any garment, a stain should not be treated by the owner. You can dab the area with a dry cloth to remove the excess stain, then use cold water to dab the rest of the mark until most of the stain is removed. Note – do not rub it!

Many of the heavier wools used in the winter are short staple fibres, and rubbing will cause the area to wear and embed the stain into the weave. For what remains, go to a professional dry cleaner for treatment, which will increase the likelihood of a safe and successful removal of the stain.

Take care of your overcoat

T

ypically, professionals are likely to wear suits and overcoats with a wool and cashmere blend because of wool’s ability to trap hot air and keep warmth within the suit. Also, wool has excellent ‘moisture-wicking’ properties, pulling moisture into the core of the fibre so that it doesn’t feel wet or soggy. Wool pulls moisture away from the skin as well, 54

I

Bespoken

and is worn by people who prefer dry air next to the skin as opposed to clammy perspiration.

Wool should be dried flat at room temperature, not exposed directly to heat

WOOL GUIDES There are certain risks and points of note with regard to maintenance, of which it is important to be aware. To begin, one should select suits made from a winter wool or heavier weight flannels and, in general, wool should be allowed to rest between wearings, to retain its shape. Knitted wool should never be compressed or stored on hangers, which will stretch it.

Brushing wool will remove surface soil and stains before they are ground in,

and a slightly damp cloth will remove deeper stains. Wool should be dried flat at room temperature, not exposed directly to heat. Wool is a fabric perfectly suited for autumn and winter wear. With proper maintenance, your favourite woolen garments can last as long as they remain fashionable, probably longer.

World’s Best Cleaners’ Director of Business Development Christopher White, states: “It is vital to take your

fine garments to what we refer to as Couture Care Specialists – professional dry cleaners with years of experience and the technical know-how to deal with highend fabrics and styles. Everything from the cleaning to the finishing can make or break a good suit over time. Your suit is an investment, and we like to think of dry cleaners as akin to service departments in the automotive industry. As with mechanics, you get what you pay for.“

A list of Certified Couture Care Specialists can be found at the WBC site: www.worldsbestcleaners.com.

Christopher White

Bespoken

I

55

DESIGNER IN VOGUE

with no energy. The 80s were an energetic time: lots of energy coming from the fashion industry and none from the Row. It needed something.

Ozwald Boateng: between craftsmanship and showmanship

Do you think Savile Row put you down as a fashion man with no tailoring background?

There will always be a tension between the creative person who doesn’t cut and the craftsman. The craftsman is thinking in mathematical proportions: working from the measurements. The creative person can see when those rules need to be broken in order to make a more handsome suit.

I’ve got a way of taking inches off the waistline from the way I cut. I can give you longer legs and a shorter torso, hide your stomach and even give you the illusion of a ‘six-pack’ stomach.

© Alex Sargison

As Independent writer John Walsh described him: “In the British fashion world, Boateng sticks out like a giant African flamingo in a field of discreetly competent thrushes and crows.” For Bespoken, celebrated journalist James Sherwood meets him.

Ozwald Boateng: Stylish visionary

INTERVIEW © E. Reeves

Boateng’s fashion show for Africa Rising

O

zwald Boateng is an easy target on Savile Row. At 6ft 4in, the statuesque London-born Ghanaian walks the Row like a male counterpoint to Naomi Campbell.

His destination? The 6500sq ft flagship he opened in December 2007 on the former site of Anderson & Sheppard: hallowed ground in the Row’s bespoke history.

When Boateng opened his first Vigo street store in 1995, the ‘thrushes and crows’ who had served the craft of bespoke tailoring humbly and quietly for generations were understandably sceptical. Who was this messianic giant describing his ‘Bespoke Couture’ concept as “the rebirth of the Row”?

Boateng’s showmanship is as dazzling as the acid yellow, lime green or shocking pink silk linings that were the early signature of his Bespoke Couture suits.

56

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Bespoken

His impressive store in Savile Row

But his showmanship tends to obscure Boateng’s profound significance on Savile Row. When he arrived on the Row, British bespoke hadn’t been relevant to anyone outside the establishment for more than a decade. It took creative minds such as Richard James, Timothy Everest and Boateng – men who worked with the tension between fashion design and bespoke craft – to re-energize (if not revolutionize) the street. When all three were photographed for Vanity Fair’s Cool Britannia issue in 1997, Boateng and Co. placed Savile Row firmly in the consciousness of a new generation as a youthful, optimistic and cool destination for sharp suits that contradicted the minimal philosophy of Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Miuccia Prada.

Boateng thinks and works on a grand scale. He has weathered the inevitable busts and booms that accompany such an approach. Other tailors may match a client list including Jagger, Bowie, Jamie Foxx, Jude Law, Keanu Reeves, Will Smith, Tony Blair, Samuel L Jackson, Spike Lee, Russell Crowe and President

Obama, but none could be as at ease heading a major LVMH brand like Givenchy Homme (Spring 2005-Spring 2007), working the Vanity Fair Oscar party with Elle MacPherson on his arm, or discussing global economics with Africa’s political leaders.

Like fellow international player Tom Ford, Boateng’s image dominates the label that bears his name — Who doesn’t want to be in his gang when OB and his Bespoke Couture peacocks strut around the Row? – but his darker, richer cloths of late distract the eye less from his unique cut than his earlier experiments with primary colours. The palette on show at No 30 Savile Row still has flashes of lemon, lime and aquamarine but suit cloths are more of a smoulder than a lightning flash. Over 80% of his cloths are developed exclusively for Bespoke Couture with his distinctive two-tone wool/cashmeres at the heart of each collection.

Boateng’s relevance to the Row rests as much in his cut and cloth as those legendary colours.

‘There will always be a tension between the creative person who doesn’t cut and the craftsman.

But design can be inspired by bespoke tailoring and vice versa.’

James Sherwood for Bespoken:

Ozwald, we’ve known each other for more than a decade and one thing was always clear to me — your passion for Savile Row. Ozwald Boateng: I love that street.

I love its history, the fact that it’s got a new life and I’m loving the fact that there’s been more international press for the Row than there ever has been. It’s an exciting time. One thing I hope is that we’re all able to seize the moment. That means a lot of working together.

Not something Savile Row was noted for up until the relatively recent past…

No, but I am very positive about Savile Row. As I’ve said for many years, the Row is where it’s at. It wasn’t always. In the late 80s Savile Row was truly a street

You’ve moved your design studio and cutting room into the bunker beneath 30 Savile Row. How’s the dynamic now that both teams work nose-to-tail?

Design can be inspired by bespoke tailoring and vice versa. It’s the way forward for us. I’m about modernizing tradition in what I do creatively. I went to Savile Row to modernize it because I really believed in it. Why would I want to be there if I didn’t have total respect for the heritage? I am completely correct.

I am one million% correct. Even the cloth I use is correct. It’s just that I’ve translated it, I’ve made it a little more modern. If you can just get past the colour and look at the style of my suits, they are incredibly traditional. A designer will look at a suit and say “I’d like to create this look” or “I’d like to make that lapel wider”. A tailor will look at a suit and say “The shoulder line needs more balance” or “How’s that roll on the shoulder working?” “Is it abiding by the rules of balance?” I use my tailoring skills to make those rules work and then I use my designer side to refine and modernize.

‘Savile Row could be the first luxury street for menswear in the world’ You can’t have too much hands-on time for bespoke customers now.

Only the ones I’ve had relationships with from way back or new clients that I want to be involved with. You’ve got to

keep it sharp and it’s good to always be in contact with your clients. When you make a handmade suit for a man it’s very personal. You get to know so much. You get to know about men. What’s on men’s minds? You find a common thread.

I think what’s been christened the ‘flight to luxury’ has served Savile Row bespoke tailoring well. No. 30 is set up to meet the demand for craft, quality, longevity and personal service. That said, did you have moments of doubt about opening No. 30 while the world was in the jaws of an unprecedented financial crisis?

I have invested everything in this store to demonstrate what can be achieved on Savile Row. What we could have here is the first luxury street for menswear in the world. I’ve been saying that to you since we met. The world –our world as well as other industries – has been turned upside down by the credit crunch. We are entering a new era and the old values will have to be reassessed. If you’re offering something new at what is literally a crunch time you are establishing yourself as part of the new world. Besides, I am a great believer in destiny. A seed was planted the first time I walked down Savile Row and saw the Anderson & Sheppard shop. It was where I wanted to be.

And what was your first experience on Savile Row? I first visited Savile Row in my early 20s when I already had a business in Portobello. I was walking past a big, double-fronted shop with spectacular window displays opposite Anderson & Sheppard and a guy came out to check out what I was wearing. It was a threequarter length grey flannel suit: very high closing. The waist was sculpted, cut like an hourglass. In those days the shoulder line was wider and I was wearing a white shirt and a polka dot tie with highly polished Church’s shoes. I’d made the suit. That’s how I started — selftaught and selling clothes off my back literally. The guy was Tommy Nutter.

He invited me inside to show me around.

Tommy was definitely an inspiration and a reason for me wanting to be on that street. It’s a shame he wasn’t around to see me open on the Row. I hope he’d have been proud.

James Sherwood

Bespoken

I

57

DESIGNER IN VOGUE

with no energy. The 80s were an energetic time: lots of energy coming from the fashion industry and none from the Row. It needed something.

Ozwald Boateng: between craftsmanship and showmanship

Do you think Savile Row put you down as a fashion man with no tailoring background?

There will always be a tension between the creative person who doesn’t cut and the craftsman. The craftsman is thinking in mathematical proportions: working from the measurements. The creative person can see when those rules need to be broken in order to make a more handsome suit.

I’ve got a way of taking inches off the waistline from the way I cut. I can give you longer legs and a shorter torso, hide your stomach and even give you the illusion of a ‘six-pack’ stomach.

© Alex Sargison

As Independent writer John Walsh described him: “In the British fashion world, Boateng sticks out like a giant African flamingo in a field of discreetly competent thrushes and crows.” For Bespoken, celebrated journalist James Sherwood meets him.

Ozwald Boateng: Stylish visionary

INTERVIEW © E. Reeves

Boateng’s fashion show for Africa Rising

O

zwald Boateng is an easy target on Savile Row. At 6ft 4in, the statuesque London-born Ghanaian walks the Row like a male counterpoint to Naomi Campbell.

His destination? The 6500sq ft flagship he opened in December 2007 on the former site of Anderson & Sheppard: hallowed ground in the Row’s bespoke history.

When Boateng opened his first Vigo street store in 1995, the ‘thrushes and crows’ who had served the craft of bespoke tailoring humbly and quietly for generations were understandably sceptical. Who was this messianic giant describing his ‘Bespoke Couture’ concept as “the rebirth of the Row”?

Boateng’s showmanship is as dazzling as the acid yellow, lime green or shocking pink silk linings that were the early signature of his Bespoke Couture suits.

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His impressive store in Savile Row

But his showmanship tends to obscure Boateng’s profound significance on Savile Row. When he arrived on the Row, British bespoke hadn’t been relevant to anyone outside the establishment for more than a decade. It took creative minds such as Richard James, Timothy Everest and Boateng – men who worked with the tension between fashion design and bespoke craft – to re-energize (if not revolutionize) the street. When all three were photographed for Vanity Fair’s Cool Britannia issue in 1997, Boateng and Co. placed Savile Row firmly in the consciousness of a new generation as a youthful, optimistic and cool destination for sharp suits that contradicted the minimal philosophy of Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Miuccia Prada.

Boateng thinks and works on a grand scale. He has weathered the inevitable busts and booms that accompany such an approach. Other tailors may match a client list including Jagger, Bowie, Jamie Foxx, Jude Law, Keanu Reeves, Will Smith, Tony Blair, Samuel L Jackson, Spike Lee, Russell Crowe and President

Obama, but none could be as at ease heading a major LVMH brand like Givenchy Homme (Spring 2005-Spring 2007), working the Vanity Fair Oscar party with Elle MacPherson on his arm, or discussing global economics with Africa’s political leaders.

Like fellow international player Tom Ford, Boateng’s image dominates the label that bears his name — Who doesn’t want to be in his gang when OB and his Bespoke Couture peacocks strut around the Row? – but his darker, richer cloths of late distract the eye less from his unique cut than his earlier experiments with primary colours. The palette on show at No 30 Savile Row still has flashes of lemon, lime and aquamarine but suit cloths are more of a smoulder than a lightning flash. Over 80% of his cloths are developed exclusively for Bespoke Couture with his distinctive two-tone wool/cashmeres at the heart of each collection.

Boateng’s relevance to the Row rests as much in his cut and cloth as those legendary colours.

‘There will always be a tension between the creative person who doesn’t cut and the craftsman.

But design can be inspired by bespoke tailoring and vice versa.’

James Sherwood for Bespoken:

Ozwald, we’ve known each other for more than a decade and one thing was always clear to me — your passion for Savile Row. Ozwald Boateng: I love that street.

I love its history, the fact that it’s got a new life and I’m loving the fact that there’s been more international press for the Row than there ever has been. It’s an exciting time. One thing I hope is that we’re all able to seize the moment. That means a lot of working together.

Not something Savile Row was noted for up until the relatively recent past…

No, but I am very positive about Savile Row. As I’ve said for many years, the Row is where it’s at. It wasn’t always. In the late 80s Savile Row was truly a street

You’ve moved your design studio and cutting room into the bunker beneath 30 Savile Row. How’s the dynamic now that both teams work nose-to-tail?

Design can be inspired by bespoke tailoring and vice versa. It’s the way forward for us. I’m about modernizing tradition in what I do creatively. I went to Savile Row to modernize it because I really believed in it. Why would I want to be there if I didn’t have total respect for the heritage? I am completely correct.

I am one million% correct. Even the cloth I use is correct. It’s just that I’ve translated it, I’ve made it a little more modern. If you can just get past the colour and look at the style of my suits, they are incredibly traditional. A designer will look at a suit and say “I’d like to create this look” or “I’d like to make that lapel wider”. A tailor will look at a suit and say “The shoulder line needs more balance” or “How’s that roll on the shoulder working?” “Is it abiding by the rules of balance?” I use my tailoring skills to make those rules work and then I use my designer side to refine and modernize.

‘Savile Row could be the first luxury street for menswear in the world’ You can’t have too much hands-on time for bespoke customers now.

Only the ones I’ve had relationships with from way back or new clients that I want to be involved with. You’ve got to

keep it sharp and it’s good to always be in contact with your clients. When you make a handmade suit for a man it’s very personal. You get to know so much. You get to know about men. What’s on men’s minds? You find a common thread.

I think what’s been christened the ‘flight to luxury’ has served Savile Row bespoke tailoring well. No. 30 is set up to meet the demand for craft, quality, longevity and personal service. That said, did you have moments of doubt about opening No. 30 while the world was in the jaws of an unprecedented financial crisis?

I have invested everything in this store to demonstrate what can be achieved on Savile Row. What we could have here is the first luxury street for menswear in the world. I’ve been saying that to you since we met. The world –our world as well as other industries – has been turned upside down by the credit crunch. We are entering a new era and the old values will have to be reassessed. If you’re offering something new at what is literally a crunch time you are establishing yourself as part of the new world. Besides, I am a great believer in destiny. A seed was planted the first time I walked down Savile Row and saw the Anderson & Sheppard shop. It was where I wanted to be.

And what was your first experience on Savile Row? I first visited Savile Row in my early 20s when I already had a business in Portobello. I was walking past a big, double-fronted shop with spectacular window displays opposite Anderson & Sheppard and a guy came out to check out what I was wearing. It was a threequarter length grey flannel suit: very high closing. The waist was sculpted, cut like an hourglass. In those days the shoulder line was wider and I was wearing a white shirt and a polka dot tie with highly polished Church’s shoes. I’d made the suit. That’s how I started — selftaught and selling clothes off my back literally. The guy was Tommy Nutter.

He invited me inside to show me around.

Tommy was definitely an inspiration and a reason for me wanting to be on that street. It’s a shame he wasn’t around to see me open on the Row. I hope he’d have been proud.

James Sherwood

Bespoken

I

57

SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

relationship that benefits both partners.

The ‘power two’, represented by the logo is more than merely symbolic – the partnership can only reinforce the respective brand images.

A family with vision in Europe’s capital

By partnering with a leading supplier that shares the same values and vision, De Vlaminck has injected new life into the tailor-made concept and expanded its customer base.

© S. Papandropoulos

How do you keep a family business growing for three generations?

Stay focused on your values, never compromise on quality, and employ creative marketing.

Welcome to De Vlaminck – one of Brussels’ leading menswear stores!

Jacques De Vlaminck

C

alm, luxurious, discreet…the De Vlaminck men’s clothing store on the fashionable Boulevard de Waterloo in Brussels looks like many other traditional up-market retailers when you go in for the first time. But looks can be deceptive. After a chat in the upstairs office with the charming and attentive Jacques de Vlaminck, it’s clear that this is no ordinary family firm.

For a start, the core product – men’s made-to-measure suits – could easily have died years ago, drowned by a wave of stylish off-the-peg Italian brands supported by heavy international marketing. And yet made-to-measure at De Vlaminck is alive and kicking; thriving on the unique ability of visionary marketing and customization to deliver perfection.

© De Vlaminck

De Vlaminck: A third-generation family business

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Partnering works Part of De Vlaminck’s success has come from its link-up with Scabal, capitalizing on its range of fabrics and customized production facilities in Europe. When two sure values decide to unite their destinies, the resulting product is bound to be of a higher order. Quality and completion ‘squared’, that is the story of (personal)², the collaboration between De Vlaminck and Scabal. The garments marketed under (personal) ² are designed exclusively for De Vlaminck – a working

“Made-to-measure creates customer loyalty,” De Vlaminck explains, “because we give them something they cannot easily buy elsewhere. It has always been our niche – tailoring has been in our family for more than 100 years – and it is a very difficult service for others to offer. Now, by using Scabal’s fabric and production skills, we are able to offer our customers the perfection of made-to-measure suits…with the ease and price of off-the-peg.”

Imagination This vision of the market is no surprise; it runs in the family. In 1958, year of the Universal Exposition in Brussels, Jacques’ father, Harry, opened a shop to complement his tailoring business.

He chose the current site in the Boulevard de Waterloo, even though there was no other store in the vicinity.

But it was prime real estate, with a view over the old city and, at the time, they were building tunnels for the inner ring road – and a large car park. “My father said that if they’re building a car park, people will follow,” De Vlaminck explains.

And how right his father was. Luxury shops sprung up, couture houses moved in, the Hilton was built, and the area soon became the top fashion-shopping locale in Europe’s capital city.

‘Made-tomeasure creates customer loyalty because we give them something they cannot easily buy elsewhere’ Customizing youth But what about younger men?

Intelligent marketing with a product adapted to consumer needs is converting a new generation to made-to-measure at De Vlaminck.

The programme is called ‘665’ – a choice of six of the latest fabrics, six young suit styles and five options for personalization such as inner linings, collars and buttons, all for an affordable price. ‘665’ is exclusively reserved for young men aged 28 and under.

This is textbook classical marketing – retain existing customers by offering them a unique service with added value, and recruit new clients to the sector by offering a product adapted to their needs at an attractive price.

“We are also proactive with existing customers and mail them twice each season,” says De Vlaminck. “Firstly, we offer an exclusive new fabric for made-to-measure business suits, then we follow it up two months later with an offer for a customized jacket for relaxation. We strive to maintain interest with co-ordinated innovations and offers.”

Soft touch…

What about the future? Which direction will De Vlaminck’s marketing take?

Short term, he sees two distinct trends in his Belgian customers, both towards more formal wear.

“There is a clear move back to businesslike suits for the office. One customer told me just a few weeks ago that his bank had issued new rules for dress code – suits and white shirts only! This is no doubt a reaction to the financial market crisis and a desire for more rigour in company values.

In casual wear too, customers who used to wear sweaters now want to look a bit more dressy and are turning to soft, comfortable jackets.”

“Longer term, the big trend is towards lighter, refined cloth that feels soft to the touch. Fine quality wools, cashmere. I would describe it as a feeling of well-being. There is less demand in this country for the shiny look; it’s more about softness than sheen.”

“The other trend takes us to plain patterns; sober and darker shades for suits. Customers want to add their own colour through accessories, shirts and ties. Except, of course, that bank in Brussels...”

Nigel Bishop

De Vlaminck Boulevard de Waterloo, 32 1000 Brussels Belgium T. +32(0)2 512 42 03 www.devlaminck.com Bespoken

I

59

SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

relationship that benefits both partners.

The ‘power two’, represented by the logo is more than merely symbolic – the partnership can only reinforce the respective brand images.

A family with vision in Europe’s capital

By partnering with a leading supplier that shares the same values and vision, De Vlaminck has injected new life into the tailor-made concept and expanded its customer base.

© S. Papandropoulos

How do you keep a family business growing for three generations?

Stay focused on your values, never compromise on quality, and employ creative marketing.

Welcome to De Vlaminck – one of Brussels’ leading menswear stores!

Jacques De Vlaminck

C

alm, luxurious, discreet…the De Vlaminck men’s clothing store on the fashionable Boulevard de Waterloo in Brussels looks like many other traditional up-market retailers when you go in for the first time. But looks can be deceptive. After a chat in the upstairs office with the charming and attentive Jacques de Vlaminck, it’s clear that this is no ordinary family firm.

For a start, the core product – men’s made-to-measure suits – could easily have died years ago, drowned by a wave of stylish off-the-peg Italian brands supported by heavy international marketing. And yet made-to-measure at De Vlaminck is alive and kicking; thriving on the unique ability of visionary marketing and customization to deliver perfection.

© De Vlaminck

De Vlaminck: A third-generation family business

58

I

Bespoken

Partnering works Part of De Vlaminck’s success has come from its link-up with Scabal, capitalizing on its range of fabrics and customized production facilities in Europe. When two sure values decide to unite their destinies, the resulting product is bound to be of a higher order. Quality and completion ‘squared’, that is the story of (personal)², the collaboration between De Vlaminck and Scabal. The garments marketed under (personal) ² are designed exclusively for De Vlaminck – a working

“Made-to-measure creates customer loyalty,” De Vlaminck explains, “because we give them something they cannot easily buy elsewhere. It has always been our niche – tailoring has been in our family for more than 100 years – and it is a very difficult service for others to offer. Now, by using Scabal’s fabric and production skills, we are able to offer our customers the perfection of made-to-measure suits…with the ease and price of off-the-peg.”

Imagination This vision of the market is no surprise; it runs in the family. In 1958, year of the Universal Exposition in Brussels, Jacques’ father, Harry, opened a shop to complement his tailoring business.

He chose the current site in the Boulevard de Waterloo, even though there was no other store in the vicinity.

But it was prime real estate, with a view over the old city and, at the time, they were building tunnels for the inner ring road – and a large car park. “My father said that if they’re building a car park, people will follow,” De Vlaminck explains.

And how right his father was. Luxury shops sprung up, couture houses moved in, the Hilton was built, and the area soon became the top fashion-shopping locale in Europe’s capital city.

‘Made-tomeasure creates customer loyalty because we give them something they cannot easily buy elsewhere’ Customizing youth But what about younger men?

Intelligent marketing with a product adapted to consumer needs is converting a new generation to made-to-measure at De Vlaminck.

The programme is called ‘665’ – a choice of six of the latest fabrics, six young suit styles and five options for personalization such as inner linings, collars and buttons, all for an affordable price. ‘665’ is exclusively reserved for young men aged 28 and under.

This is textbook classical marketing – retain existing customers by offering them a unique service with added value, and recruit new clients to the sector by offering a product adapted to their needs at an attractive price.

“We are also proactive with existing customers and mail them twice each season,” says De Vlaminck. “Firstly, we offer an exclusive new fabric for made-to-measure business suits, then we follow it up two months later with an offer for a customized jacket for relaxation. We strive to maintain interest with co-ordinated innovations and offers.”

Soft touch…

What about the future? Which direction will De Vlaminck’s marketing take?

Short term, he sees two distinct trends in his Belgian customers, both towards more formal wear.

“There is a clear move back to businesslike suits for the office. One customer told me just a few weeks ago that his bank had issued new rules for dress code – suits and white shirts only! This is no doubt a reaction to the financial market crisis and a desire for more rigour in company values.

In casual wear too, customers who used to wear sweaters now want to look a bit more dressy and are turning to soft, comfortable jackets.”

“Longer term, the big trend is towards lighter, refined cloth that feels soft to the touch. Fine quality wools, cashmere. I would describe it as a feeling of well-being. There is less demand in this country for the shiny look; it’s more about softness than sheen.”

“The other trend takes us to plain patterns; sober and darker shades for suits. Customers want to add their own colour through accessories, shirts and ties. Except, of course, that bank in Brussels...”

Nigel Bishop

De Vlaminck Boulevard de Waterloo, 32 1000 Brussels Belgium T. +32(0)2 512 42 03 www.devlaminck.com Bespoken

I

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Spring-Summer 2010 trends

Under the British sky What will we find in men’s wardrobes next summer? Bespoken asks Scabal Design & Creation Director Michael Day to reveal the fabrics and Scabal Sales & Product Director Olivier Vander Slock to tell us about styles.

© C. Levêcque

– It is not only stain resistant and water repellent, keeping a nice clean appearance even in very humid conditions – it also makes the cloth more stable and easier to tailor. So, Monza Pole Position makes a popular Super 100’s even better!

Huddersfield, England: Here, Scabal’s mill produces the world finest fabrics

FABRICS Checks are back Michael, what will be your top innovations for the Scabal 2010 summer collection?

Michael Day: Let’s start with a very summery mood: Riviera! Our new collection of this popular line offers a wide range of choices, with 35 articles in linen, wool-linen, seersucker stripes, 25% cotton and 25% silk. We also have summer checks, some of them bold. As we have noticed in our winter collection already, checks are back in a big way.

Bespoken :

Secondly, we have upgraded our mohairs into a luxury mohair collection. Mercury Bay, which is a traditional English mohair with 35% kid mohair and Montego Bay, now with 60% kid mohair for an exceptionally soft and luxurious cloth, all in classical patterns, stripes and plains.

What about your Super 140’s and 150’s?

Scabal will be offering a new collection of Super 140’s wool called Appeal in no less than 67 designs, and we have made a deliberate effort to offer this at a competitive price. We expect Appeal to sell well; it is a very complete range incorporating light, dark and classical shades.

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Bespoken

Looking fine Moving even higher up the quality scale, our new Perception collection is a Super 150’s 240g and 250g cloth in 35 designs.

This is a very fine-looking cloth with a modern aspect in the ‘Bowater’ weave construction. The Bowater appearance reverses the traditional darker horizontal weft and lighter vertical warp, giving a stronger colour contrast with a shimmering reflection. Perception is an exceptionally fine-looking collection.

‘We expect Appeal to sell well; it is a very complete range incorporating light, dark and classical shades’

CUTS & COLOURS Soft, light and tailored Bespoken :

Pink & Grey

What about jacket fabrics next summer?

We see three trends in jacket fabrics: classical designs including soft, quiet checks; plain patterns; and bold checks. Our new Mosaic jacketing line includes Nobility wool and silk – an old favourite with new shine.

This shiny, silky trend died down a while ago but seems to be coming back, so we have created a new collection with some medium-strength checks and false plains (those that look plain from a distance and patterned from close up). This is quite a dressy jacket, even when it’s plain, because of its lovely silky shine.

Mint

Nano technology

This brings us to one of our biggest and most important collections – the Super 100’s Royal. As the name suggests, it is classical and has no less than 95 articles, so there is something for everybody. It’s a beautiful cloth that offers great value for money.

Do you have any new technologies that have been used in the collection?

Yes, we do. Monza is one of our global bestsellers, but this time we have added a special finish and called it Monza Pole Position. Motor sports enthusiasts will understand the significance! The finish is provided by a type of nano technology

And, lastly, we have Zenith, a brand new line of exceptionally soft and fine Super 180’s and cashmere. We have had this quality before, but now we have had a request to make a new collection. It features a lot of light shades and semi-fancy designs and some very fine-looking checks, which we did not have before.

The British style is a statement of tradition – classic, formal, timeless, rather serious – expressed for years by London icons such as Burberry, Daks and Austin Reed. It is not only in the quality and structure of the cloth; it follows through into patterns and designs: classic window-panes, checks and stripes.

Jackets offer choice

Colourful, light yarns What other novelties are on offer?

We had Image once before – the Super 100’s with a Prunell weave is well known – but now we have re-introduced a collection of 41 articles. Around 20% of these have a ‘solaro’ look: colourful, fancy yarns that counter-balance each other in a twill-type weave to give a ‘gentleman’s’ appearance.

It is a well-balanced collection mixing classical with semi-fancy designs.

Olivier, how will discerning men be dressed next summer?

Olivier Vander Slock: The British are back. There are several trends and, in suiting, I think the move back to the British look is very strong. All fabric designers are offering British-look collections in 2010, even the Italians!

Navy

At the same time, we are seeing a trend towards jackets, whether worn with classic trousers in the week or with jeans for relaxation at the weekend – again, a British touch! Jackets give you flexibility, depending on how you feel.

You can also play more with colour on jackets because they tend to be worn on less formal occasions. Both can be personalized with the lining but outside, a suit always stays formal, whereas a jacket doesn’t have to. This fondness for colourful jackets is reflected in the Scabal 2010 summer collection.

Pastel Orange

Ochre

The Scabal 2010 summer collection is divided into five colour themes: Mint: Pale greens and browns, with a mix of cool linen, cotton and wool fabrics.

Pastel orange: Checks and stripes in grey, brown and dark blue – with a touch of orange adding summer freshness.

Navy: Sky blue and brown. Try navy with white stripes in 100% Sea Island cotton! Worn as a suit or as a jacket with white trousers.

Pink and grey: Suit and jackets, including a cool white and pink seersucker jacket.

Ochre: With electric blue and dark grey. Glen checks, window panes and the solaro effect.

More softness We also see that more men are looking for softness and comfort in their clothing today.

It is a global trend and you can see it in our new fabric and suit collections. Of course, some customers want the more traditional, formal style and this is why Scabal offers a choice of soft, medium and hard interlinings. It is another way the customer can personalize his clothes.

We also offer a choice of fused and unfused linings. Fused linings give more stability, so the garment is more rigid and has a more fitted look. Unfused means that the garment is looser on the canvas. The Scabal standard was fully fused, even for the lapels, but now we offer semi-traditional garments – with the front panels fused and the lapel stitched, giving a nice rolled look.

In terms of the cut, trousers stay slim and jackets are still as short as in 2009, with two buttons and wide lapels. Scabal is however offering a ‘ false’ three-button style in Europe next year, for the first time. Three buttons are still popular in Italy but elsewhere two buttons are the norm. With our ‘ false’ three-button style, the lapel rolls over the higher button.

There are also two styles for the shoulder cut – narrow and constructed, or softer and un-constructed.

Scabal personalization We should always remember that our collection is just an illustration of the possibilities of personalization.

We offer a menu, but serve à la carte.

Nigel Bishop

Bespoken

I

61

Spring-Summer 2010 trends

Under the British sky What will we find in men’s wardrobes next summer? Bespoken asks Scabal Design & Creation Director Michael Day to reveal the fabrics and Scabal Sales & Product Director Olivier Vander Slock to tell us about styles.

© C. Levêcque

– It is not only stain resistant and water repellent, keeping a nice clean appearance even in very humid conditions – it also makes the cloth more stable and easier to tailor. So, Monza Pole Position makes a popular Super 100’s even better!

Huddersfield, England: Here, Scabal’s mill produces the world finest fabrics

FABRICS Checks are back Michael, what will be your top innovations for the Scabal 2010 summer collection?

Michael Day: Let’s start with a very summery mood: Riviera! Our new collection of this popular line offers a wide range of choices, with 35 articles in linen, wool-linen, seersucker stripes, 25% cotton and 25% silk. We also have summer checks, some of them bold. As we have noticed in our winter collection already, checks are back in a big way.

Bespoken :

Secondly, we have upgraded our mohairs into a luxury mohair collection. Mercury Bay, which is a traditional English mohair with 35% kid mohair and Montego Bay, now with 60% kid mohair for an exceptionally soft and luxurious cloth, all in classical patterns, stripes and plains.

What about your Super 140’s and 150’s?

Scabal will be offering a new collection of Super 140’s wool called Appeal in no less than 67 designs, and we have made a deliberate effort to offer this at a competitive price. We expect Appeal to sell well; it is a very complete range incorporating light, dark and classical shades.

60

I

Bespoken

Looking fine Moving even higher up the quality scale, our new Perception collection is a Super 150’s 240g and 250g cloth in 35 designs.

This is a very fine-looking cloth with a modern aspect in the ‘Bowater’ weave construction. The Bowater appearance reverses the traditional darker horizontal weft and lighter vertical warp, giving a stronger colour contrast with a shimmering reflection. Perception is an exceptionally fine-looking collection.

‘We expect Appeal to sell well; it is a very complete range incorporating light, dark and classical shades’

CUTS & COLOURS Soft, light and tailored Bespoken :

Pink & Grey

What about jacket fabrics next summer?

We see three trends in jacket fabrics: classical designs including soft, quiet checks; plain patterns; and bold checks. Our new Mosaic jacketing line includes Nobility wool and silk – an old favourite with new shine.

This shiny, silky trend died down a while ago but seems to be coming back, so we have created a new collection with some medium-strength checks and false plains (those that look plain from a distance and patterned from close up). This is quite a dressy jacket, even when it’s plain, because of its lovely silky shine.

Mint

Nano technology

This brings us to one of our biggest and most important collections – the Super 100’s Royal. As the name suggests, it is classical and has no less than 95 articles, so there is something for everybody. It’s a beautiful cloth that offers great value for money.

Do you have any new technologies that have been used in the collection?

Yes, we do. Monza is one of our global bestsellers, but this time we have added a special finish and called it Monza Pole Position. Motor sports enthusiasts will understand the significance! The finish is provided by a type of nano technology

And, lastly, we have Zenith, a brand new line of exceptionally soft and fine Super 180’s and cashmere. We have had this quality before, but now we have had a request to make a new collection. It features a lot of light shades and semi-fancy designs and some very fine-looking checks, which we did not have before.

The British style is a statement of tradition – classic, formal, timeless, rather serious – expressed for years by London icons such as Burberry, Daks and Austin Reed. It is not only in the quality and structure of the cloth; it follows through into patterns and designs: classic window-panes, checks and stripes.

Jackets offer choice

Colourful, light yarns What other novelties are on offer?

We had Image once before – the Super 100’s with a Prunell weave is well known – but now we have re-introduced a collection of 41 articles. Around 20% of these have a ‘solaro’ look: colourful, fancy yarns that counter-balance each other in a twill-type weave to give a ‘gentleman’s’ appearance.

It is a well-balanced collection mixing classical with semi-fancy designs.

Olivier, how will discerning men be dressed next summer?

Olivier Vander Slock: The British are back. There are several trends and, in suiting, I think the move back to the British look is very strong. All fabric designers are offering British-look collections in 2010, even the Italians!

Navy

At the same time, we are seeing a trend towards jackets, whether worn with classic trousers in the week or with jeans for relaxation at the weekend – again, a British touch! Jackets give you flexibility, depending on how you feel.

You can also play more with colour on jackets because they tend to be worn on less formal occasions. Both can be personalized with the lining but outside, a suit always stays formal, whereas a jacket doesn’t have to. This fondness for colourful jackets is reflected in the Scabal 2010 summer collection.

Pastel Orange

Ochre

The Scabal 2010 summer collection is divided into five colour themes: Mint: Pale greens and browns, with a mix of cool linen, cotton and wool fabrics.

Pastel orange: Checks and stripes in grey, brown and dark blue – with a touch of orange adding summer freshness.

Navy: Sky blue and brown. Try navy with white stripes in 100% Sea Island cotton! Worn as a suit or as a jacket with white trousers.

Pink and grey: Suit and jackets, including a cool white and pink seersucker jacket.

Ochre: With electric blue and dark grey. Glen checks, window panes and the solaro effect.

More softness We also see that more men are looking for softness and comfort in their clothing today.

It is a global trend and you can see it in our new fabric and suit collections. Of course, some customers want the more traditional, formal style and this is why Scabal offers a choice of soft, medium and hard interlinings. It is another way the customer can personalize his clothes.

We also offer a choice of fused and unfused linings. Fused linings give more stability, so the garment is more rigid and has a more fitted look. Unfused means that the garment is looser on the canvas. The Scabal standard was fully fused, even for the lapels, but now we offer semi-traditional garments – with the front panels fused and the lapel stitched, giving a nice rolled look.

In terms of the cut, trousers stay slim and jackets are still as short as in 2009, with two buttons and wide lapels. Scabal is however offering a ‘ false’ three-button style in Europe next year, for the first time. Three buttons are still popular in Italy but elsewhere two buttons are the norm. With our ‘ false’ three-button style, the lapel rolls over the higher button.

There are also two styles for the shoulder cut – narrow and constructed, or softer and un-constructed.

Scabal personalization We should always remember that our collection is just an illustration of the possibilities of personalization.

We offer a menu, but serve à la carte.

Nigel Bishop

Bespoken

I

61

PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

Mirelli goes Slovak – Obama bets on black

blue. Why not do as the president does, and discover the Eton and Fanfare ranges, along with all the Scabal fabrics available in the online fabrics catalogue? www.scabal.com

Bespoke luxury becomes ‘N° 12 by Scabal-Delvaux’

Handmade

Taking in Bratislava and Washington, via Beijing and Switzerland, a round-up of the latest Scabal initiatives.

© The Swank 62

I

Bespoken

Scabal announces the launch of its first gift voucher! As you would expect, it’s fully customizable and very chic, and it can be ordered from all Scabal stockists worldwide. There is no limit to the voucher’s value – it is left entirely to the customer’s discretion. The gift voucher can be exchanged for anything in the Scabal range – made-to-measure suits, accessories, prêt à porter outfits, etc. To be kept in mind as the holiday season approaches… www.scabal.com Obama chooses Eton and Fanfare

Prestigious publisher Tectum’s latest work is dedicated to the most beautiful luxury ranges. Entitled Handmade, the book will be available from the end of 2009, with a first print-run of 25,000 copies. It will be available in three languages and will be distributed worldwide in bookstores, galleries and via the Internet. No less than 12 pages will be dedicated to Scabal, alongside sections on Delvaux leather accessories, Santoni shoes, Steinway pianos and Glashütte Original watches. www.tectum.be Nicholas Jones goes Mobile

Der groSSe Kater

© Claudio Asquini

The Swank: Grand opening

It’s a gift…

Scabal is proud to have provided the outfits for famous Swiss actor Bruno Ganz, in his latest film Der große Kater (2009), which is based on the novel by Thomas Hürlimann, one of Switzerland‘s most acclaimed contemporary authors.

The book was an immediate bestseller in Switzerland and Germany, and the movie was directed by the renowned Swiss filmmaker Wolfgang Panzer. www.barryfilms.com

What? So you seriously thought of finding a magazine in which his name didn’t appear? Sorry. And he, for it is US President Barack Obama of whom we speak, of course, like all American presidents from Lyndon B. Johnson in 1961 onwards, has his suits cut by the world-famous Washington-based tailor Georges de Paris. Scabal is honoured to announce that it has recently supplied Georges de Paris with two cuts of fabric, to dress Mr. President in person! The man of the moment chose comfort and subtle style, with a fabric from the Eton Super 130’s range in black, and cloth from the Super Fanfare 120’s, in dark

Manchester client Nicholas Jones has created a funky Fiat 500, suited and booted to scoot around the streets and motorways of the UK. The vehicle was wrapped in cloth from Scabal’s Triple A Super 120’s and Cashmere suiting range.

“It not only offers effective advertising for our brand but it’s also a great way of catering for our clients though our travelling service which we offer both by seeing them for new orders and delivering their garments to them.

It brings a smile to their faces,” says Jones.

The car also appears on Twitter, the social networking site, where you can follow all her movements on a daily basis! www.nicholasjonesbespoke.co.uk Jérôme Stéfanski Veerle Windels

© Delvaux

Marco Mirelli, the Bratislavan menswear specialist, has chosen the successful Slovak actor Tomáš Maštalír as its latest brand ambassador. The recent spring campaign depicts Maštalír in social situations for which Marco Mirelli can create made-to-measure clothes – formal and informal business, casual, social occassions and weddings. In each photo, the woman accompanying the actor is Marco Mirelli Executive Image Consultant Miriam Lisová Marcineková who is, along with her husband, the group‘s majority owner. A daring and creative advertising campaign for this valuable Scabal client...

Marco Mirelli Sv. Vincenta, 1 821 03 Bratislava Slovakia T. +421 910 920 240 www.marcomirelli.sk

Hong Kong’s leading luxury fashion house The Swank has proudly announced the opening of its first Mainland China flagship store in Jinbao Place Shopping Center, Beijing. Sporting state-of-the-art international fashion brands such as Scabal, The Swank held a ‘Breaking of Cocoon’ fashion party in Beijing earlier this year – following a fashion show, at which more than 500 guests and 70 media organizations were present. Lucky prize winners were also announced – the prizes from various European fashion brands included a Scabal N° 12 made-tomeasure suit.

The Swank Shop 210-211, Jinbao Place Shopping Center, 88 Jinbao Street, Dong Cheng District, Beijing, China T. +8610 8522 1398 www.swank.com

© Scabal

© Marco Mirelli

Tomáš Maštalír for Marco Mirelli

When Scabal meets Delvaux

This autumn, ‘N° 12 by ScabalDelvaux’ will be launched, a luxury label for men featuring suits and leather accessories. It’s not just another collection, but well-chosen designs to capture the heart of every demanding customer. An international premiere.

Luxury, craftsmanship, authenticity and common sense – Scabal and Delvaux have these values in common.

Moreover, both luxury houses have their headquarters in Brussels. For the past 70 years, Scabal has been creating quality fabrics for the menswear fashion industry – the brand has added collections of its own and even ventured into the customized market, opening up a store on London’s Savile Row. Delvaux, on the other hand, is the oldest leather accessories firm in the world – its origins date as far back as 1829 – and is also offering a limited series of new collections.

Representatives of both firms sat down to discuss luxury leather goods and customized menswear. What do men really want – those men who already have everything? How high are their expectations? Well, it was decided, they’ll probably love quality leather and beautiful colours. They’ll love a perfect finish on a briefcase, wallet or other well-crafted leather

goods. But there’s more – every item is handmade and can be 100% personalized.

Your initials are just the beginning.

Needless to say, ‘N° 12 by ScabalDelvaux’ will also feature made-tomeasure menswear. This collection, handcrafted according to strict tailoring traditions, is the ultimate Scabal range. A ‘N° 12’ suit is the epitome of natural, contemporary elegance and is the perfect blend of modern comfort and tailored finesse. “We do think there’s a tremendous potential for bespoke and for customization,” said Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen. “Moreover, both Scabal and Delvaux share so many values that a collaboration of this kind is totally in line with our strategy. It’s a premiere for the industry, but it can take both labels much further.”

The co-branded ‘N° 12 by ScabalDelvaux’ collection will be available later in autumn. It will be on view at the Delvaux store in Antwerp and at London’s Scabal flagship store in Savile Row – which is found at number 12, obviously – and at several other special events. More information will be available in the next Bespoken. www.delvaux.com www.scabal.com Bespoken

I

63

PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

Mirelli goes Slovak – Obama bets on black

blue. Why not do as the president does, and discover the Eton and Fanfare ranges, along with all the Scabal fabrics available in the online fabrics catalogue? www.scabal.com

Bespoke luxury becomes ‘N° 12 by Scabal-Delvaux’

Handmade

Taking in Bratislava and Washington, via Beijing and Switzerland, a round-up of the latest Scabal initiatives.

© The Swank 62

I

Bespoken

Scabal announces the launch of its first gift voucher! As you would expect, it’s fully customizable and very chic, and it can be ordered from all Scabal stockists worldwide. There is no limit to the voucher’s value – it is left entirely to the customer’s discretion. The gift voucher can be exchanged for anything in the Scabal range – made-to-measure suits, accessories, prêt à porter outfits, etc. To be kept in mind as the holiday season approaches… www.scabal.com Obama chooses Eton and Fanfare

Prestigious publisher Tectum’s latest work is dedicated to the most beautiful luxury ranges. Entitled Handmade, the book will be available from the end of 2009, with a first print-run of 25,000 copies. It will be available in three languages and will be distributed worldwide in bookstores, galleries and via the Internet. No less than 12 pages will be dedicated to Scabal, alongside sections on Delvaux leather accessories, Santoni shoes, Steinway pianos and Glashütte Original watches. www.tectum.be Nicholas Jones goes Mobile

Der groSSe Kater

© Claudio Asquini

The Swank: Grand opening

It’s a gift…

Scabal is proud to have provided the outfits for famous Swiss actor Bruno Ganz, in his latest film Der große Kater (2009), which is based on the novel by Thomas Hürlimann, one of Switzerland‘s most acclaimed contemporary authors.

The book was an immediate bestseller in Switzerland and Germany, and the movie was directed by the renowned Swiss filmmaker Wolfgang Panzer. www.barryfilms.com

What? So you seriously thought of finding a magazine in which his name didn’t appear? Sorry. And he, for it is US President Barack Obama of whom we speak, of course, like all American presidents from Lyndon B. Johnson in 1961 onwards, has his suits cut by the world-famous Washington-based tailor Georges de Paris. Scabal is honoured to announce that it has recently supplied Georges de Paris with two cuts of fabric, to dress Mr. President in person! The man of the moment chose comfort and subtle style, with a fabric from the Eton Super 130’s range in black, and cloth from the Super Fanfare 120’s, in dark

Manchester client Nicholas Jones has created a funky Fiat 500, suited and booted to scoot around the streets and motorways of the UK. The vehicle was wrapped in cloth from Scabal’s Triple A Super 120’s and Cashmere suiting range.

“It not only offers effective advertising for our brand but it’s also a great way of catering for our clients though our travelling service which we offer both by seeing them for new orders and delivering their garments to them.

It brings a smile to their faces,” says Jones.

The car also appears on Twitter, the social networking site, where you can follow all her movements on a daily basis! www.nicholasjonesbespoke.co.uk Jérôme Stéfanski Veerle Windels

© Delvaux

Marco Mirelli, the Bratislavan menswear specialist, has chosen the successful Slovak actor Tomáš Maštalír as its latest brand ambassador. The recent spring campaign depicts Maštalír in social situations for which Marco Mirelli can create made-to-measure clothes – formal and informal business, casual, social occassions and weddings. In each photo, the woman accompanying the actor is Marco Mirelli Executive Image Consultant Miriam Lisová Marcineková who is, along with her husband, the group‘s majority owner. A daring and creative advertising campaign for this valuable Scabal client...

Marco Mirelli Sv. Vincenta, 1 821 03 Bratislava Slovakia T. +421 910 920 240 www.marcomirelli.sk

Hong Kong’s leading luxury fashion house The Swank has proudly announced the opening of its first Mainland China flagship store in Jinbao Place Shopping Center, Beijing. Sporting state-of-the-art international fashion brands such as Scabal, The Swank held a ‘Breaking of Cocoon’ fashion party in Beijing earlier this year – following a fashion show, at which more than 500 guests and 70 media organizations were present. Lucky prize winners were also announced – the prizes from various European fashion brands included a Scabal N° 12 made-tomeasure suit.

The Swank Shop 210-211, Jinbao Place Shopping Center, 88 Jinbao Street, Dong Cheng District, Beijing, China T. +8610 8522 1398 www.swank.com

© Scabal

© Marco Mirelli

Tomáš Maštalír for Marco Mirelli

When Scabal meets Delvaux

This autumn, ‘N° 12 by ScabalDelvaux’ will be launched, a luxury label for men featuring suits and leather accessories. It’s not just another collection, but well-chosen designs to capture the heart of every demanding customer. An international premiere.

Luxury, craftsmanship, authenticity and common sense – Scabal and Delvaux have these values in common.

Moreover, both luxury houses have their headquarters in Brussels. For the past 70 years, Scabal has been creating quality fabrics for the menswear fashion industry – the brand has added collections of its own and even ventured into the customized market, opening up a store on London’s Savile Row. Delvaux, on the other hand, is the oldest leather accessories firm in the world – its origins date as far back as 1829 – and is also offering a limited series of new collections.

Representatives of both firms sat down to discuss luxury leather goods and customized menswear. What do men really want – those men who already have everything? How high are their expectations? Well, it was decided, they’ll probably love quality leather and beautiful colours. They’ll love a perfect finish on a briefcase, wallet or other well-crafted leather

goods. But there’s more – every item is handmade and can be 100% personalized.

Your initials are just the beginning.

Needless to say, ‘N° 12 by ScabalDelvaux’ will also feature made-tomeasure menswear. This collection, handcrafted according to strict tailoring traditions, is the ultimate Scabal range. A ‘N° 12’ suit is the epitome of natural, contemporary elegance and is the perfect blend of modern comfort and tailored finesse. “We do think there’s a tremendous potential for bespoke and for customization,” said Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen. “Moreover, both Scabal and Delvaux share so many values that a collaboration of this kind is totally in line with our strategy. It’s a premiere for the industry, but it can take both labels much further.”

The co-branded ‘N° 12 by ScabalDelvaux’ collection will be available later in autumn. It will be on view at the Delvaux store in Antwerp and at London’s Scabal flagship store in Savile Row – which is found at number 12, obviously – and at several other special events. More information will be available in the next Bespoken. www.delvaux.com www.scabal.com Bespoken

I

63

SCABAL WORLDWIDE CLOTH

GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES

viSit SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At 12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London, pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com or tHe SCABAL CornerS in Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, 61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, scabal.printemps@scabal.com KAdeWe, 1St fLoor, tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin, pHone +49-30-219 18 530, ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.de OBERPOLLINGER, NEUHAUSER STRASSE 18, 80331 Munich, GERMANY phone +49-89-290 240 40, dagmar.dueh@scabal.de for otHer LoCAtionS, viSit tHe Store LoCAtor on WWW.SCABAL.Com

EUROPE SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com AUSTRIA +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at FRANCE +33-1-42 33 08 93 SCABALfrAnCe@WAnAdoo.fr GERMANY +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de GREAT BRITAIN +44-207-734 1867 HAZEL.EDMONDS@SCABAL.COM +44-777-591 64 53 rsointernational@hotmail.com GREECE +30-210-67 27 431 DCON@OTENET.GR +30-210-3618 668 ELLI@stamataki.gr ITALY +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com CYPRUS +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com Scabal Spring – Summer 2010

POLAND +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl PORTUGAL +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt ROMANIA +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro RUSSIA +7-495-660-7163 ag@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2010 sol@solstudio.RU SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com +49-171-651 08 29 hans-peter.wichert@t-online.de TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr AMERICA ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar BRAZIL +55-11-362 041 044 erlutecidos@sti.com.br CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com CHILI +56-2-638 14 72 c.rubio@holmes.cl COLOMBIA +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@etb.net.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do MEXICO +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx

Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx U.S.A. +1-212-4756 666 fabricczar@aol.com VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com ASIA & OCEANIA AZERBAIJAN +99-412-382.214 salamzade@rambler.ru AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 A.WAIN@BIGPOND.NET.au BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS– MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-6336 0070 heefabricagencies@hee.sg HONG KONG +852-25-433 694 INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net IRAN +98 55611469-55614137 tehranivahid@hotmail.com JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan @scabal.co.jp KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-140-375 27 16 FARIS@FMMERCIE.com south korea +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com AFRICA SOUTH-AFRICA +27-21-794 67 27 jb.elder@iBURST.co.za

NEXT ISSUE: FEBRUARY 2010

THE WORLD OF TAILORING In the next edition of Bespoken, we pay tribute to the tailor’s craft. History, know-how, authenticity, service – terms that define these artists of masculine elegance.

The spirit of Savile Row thus inspires the Scabal SpringSummer 2010 Collection – a world in which, between fabrics and needles, ancestral expertise blends perfectly with contemporary creativity. Reserve your copy, which will be delivered to your home, at WWW.BESPOKEN.COM 64

I

Bespoken

this fifth edition of bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of:

SCABAL WORLDWIDE CLOTH

GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES

viSit SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At 12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London, pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com or tHe SCABAL CornerS in Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, 61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, scabal.printemps@scabal.com KAdeWe, 1St fLoor, tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin, pHone +49-30-219 18 530, ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.de OBERPOLLINGER, NEUHAUSER STRASSE 18, 80331 Munich, GERMANY phone +49-89-290 240 40, dagmar.dueh@scabal.de for otHer LoCAtionS, viSit tHe Store LoCAtor on WWW.SCABAL.Com

EUROPE SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com AUSTRIA +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at FRANCE +33-1-42 33 08 93 SCABALfrAnCe@WAnAdoo.fr GERMANY +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de GREAT BRITAIN +44-207-734 1867 HAZEL.EDMONDS@SCABAL.COM +44-777-591 64 53 rsointernational@hotmail.com GREECE +30-210-67 27 431 DCON@OTENET.GR +30-210-3618 668 ELLI@stamataki.gr ITALY +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com CYPRUS +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com Scabal Spring – Summer 2010

POLAND +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl PORTUGAL +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt ROMANIA +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro RUSSIA +7-495-660-7163 ag@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2010 sol@solstudio.RU SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com +49-171-651 08 29 hans-peter.wichert@t-online.de TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr AMERICA ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar BRAZIL +55-11-362 041 044 erlutecidos@sti.com.br CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com CHILI +56-2-638 14 72 c.rubio@holmes.cl COLOMBIA +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@etb.net.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do MEXICO +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx

Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx U.S.A. +1-212-4756 666 fabricczar@aol.com VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com ASIA & OCEANIA AZERBAIJAN +99-412-382.214 salamzade@rambler.ru AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 A.WAIN@BIGPOND.NET.au BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS– MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-6336 0070 heefabricagencies@hee.sg HONG KONG +852-25-433 694 INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net IRAN +98 55611469-55614137 tehranivahid@hotmail.com JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan @scabal.co.jp KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-140-375 27 16 FARIS@FMMERCIE.com south korea +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com AFRICA SOUTH-AFRICA +27-21-794 67 27 jb.elder@iBURST.co.za

NEXT ISSUE: FEBRUARY 2010

THE WORLD OF TAILORING In the next edition of Bespoken, we pay tribute to the tailor’s craft. History, know-how, authenticity, service – terms that define these artists of masculine elegance.

The spirit of Savile Row thus inspires the Scabal SpringSummer 2010 Collection – a world in which, between fabrics and needles, ancestral expertise blends perfectly with contemporary creativity. Reserve your copy, which will be delivered to your home, at WWW.BESPOKEN.COM 64

I

Bespoken

this fifth edition of bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of:

Request your next copy of Scabal’s magazine Bespoken on Bespoken.com 6

I

Bespoken