BESPOKEN 6 by Scabal

Bespoken

SPRING-SUMMER 2010 TRENDS

THE WORLD OF TAILORING

CONFESSION The ‘slow suit’ world FROM SHEEP TO SHOP Treasure Box GENTLEMEN’S MEETING Oliver Stone Spring – Summer 2010 6th Edition

SPR I NG – SU M M E R 2 0 10 www.bespoken.com

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A SCABAL init iati ve to promote A taIlor -made lifesty le

The pleasure of mechanics

this sixth edition of bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of:

HightStreet Bobsleigh

Official Partner

w w w. l a m o nt re.ch

THE HEART OF COGNAC

We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material. Editor: Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher: Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator: Kristel Geets Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design: BaseDESIGN Writers: Nigel Bishop Alan Cannon-Jones Nino Cerruti Federico Grandesso William Kissel Kimberley Lovato Andrew Marshall Eric Musgrave Stephen Papandropoulos Bernhard Roetzel Jérôme Stéfanski Proofreading: ReadRight.be

Editorial COMMENT

Bright future for tailoring Dear Reader, Since its creation in 1938 as a merchant of fine fabrics, Scabal has been closely associated with the tailoring trade. Even though ready-to-wear and modern made-to-measure have taken a substantial share of the international clothing market, the art of fine tailoring is still very much alive. Some countries are even enjoying a revival of this form of craftsmanship. By featuring a few of the world’s young tailors starting in the business – and family enterprises still flourishing – we hope to illustrate that the future is bright for ‘the trade’. There are certainly many opportunities in the market place. Consumers today want to understand the product they buy and know its origins. What clearer message can you give than: “It’s all been made in our workshop.”? Personalization is a global trend and it requires real expertise to be able to give advice on fabric choice and style. But it’s certainly a competence that the tailor can offer. In order to show our ongoing support of fine tailoring and to contribute to growing public awareness, we are dedicating this edition to the history, traditions and future of tailoring. Not only do we want to show our gratitude to our loyal customers and ambassadors, we also hope to provide readers with fascinating insights into a world that sometimes lacks the recognition it deserves. Happy reading! Gregor Thissen

Photographers: David Hughes Paul Marshall Stephen Papandropoulos Filip Vanzieleghem Fotostudio Uyttebroeck Illustrator: Jean-Baptiste Biche Hormazad Narielwalla Cover Credits: Sxc.hu: Float SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback? Let us know at www.bespoken.com Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper

Taste our know-how wisely.

J. Peter Thissen, Scabal Group Chairman and his son Gregor, CEO

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com Bespoken

THE HEART OF COGNAC

Editorial COMMENT

Taste our know-how wisely.

J. Peter Thissen, Scabal Group Chairman and his son Gregor, CEO

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com Bespoken

CONTRIBUTORS

DREAM TEAM

03 05 06 07 08 12 14 16 22 28 32 4

editorial comment

Bright future for tailoring DREAM TEAM

Contributors confession

The ‘slow suit’ world TEMPTATIONS

Bespoke gifts for all IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

In control of quality tailor’s dictionary

From M to O from sheep to shop

Scabal’s closely guarded secret SPRING-summer must-haves by scabal

Style symmetry History of tailoring

Suits through the centuries SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Old traditions meet a new generation LEGENDARY WORKSHOP

The bespoke suit process

Bespoken

35 37 38 50 54 56 59 60 62 64

THE GOURMET PLACE

Tailors’ tips

ERIC MUSGRAVE Eric Musgrave has been writing about fashion for nearly 30 years and is the author of the recently-published Sharp Suits, a 200-page celebration of men’s tailoring. An award-winning editor-in-chief while at Drapers, the UK’s top fashion business weekly, he has also held senior positions at Men’s Wear, Fashion Weekly, International Textiles (based in Amsterdam) and Sportswear International (based in Milan), as well as writing for numerous other publications, including Financial Times, The Observer and Vogue. He was the launch editor of one of the first men’s style titles, For Him Magazine (now FHM ) in 1985–86. As well as writing about the industry, he is also a consultant to the fashion business. Eric got his first proper suit aged 13 and now has 11 suits hanging in his wardrobe.

FEDERICO GRANDESSO Federico Grandesso began covering the Venice Film Festival in 1992. In 2003, he had the chance to report on the Milan Fashion Week, the Rome Film Festival, and to interview famous fashion designers. Very interested in the relationship between cinema and fashion, he also started following the Cannes Film Festival and Paris Fashion Week. During his period in Italy, he was a press officer for an Italian designer and had the chance to organize various fashion shows and fashion events during the Milan Fashion Week. For Bespoken, he talks to film director Oliver Stone.

Kimberley Lovato Kimberley Lovato is a freelance journalist whose articles about travel and lifestyle have appeared in the St. Petersburg Times, Tampa Bay Illustrated, BThere Magazine, Conde Nast Traveller, Together Magazine and various online media. Her culinary travel book, Walnut Wine & Truffle Groves, about the Dordogne region of France, will be released by Running Press in April 2010. Her passion for travel and gastronomy is ideally suited to Bespoken’s sections on fine dining and prestigious events around the globe.

BernHArd roetZeL Author of the popular Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design, Bernhard Roetzel has studied classic men’s fashion for more than ten years. Aside from his work as an author and editor, he also holds lectures and seminars on style issues. In this edition of Bespoken, he looks at the latest trends in jackets.

THE CLASSICS

When tailoring inspires culture spring-summer 2010-2011 trends

Tailoring with a twist TERRA INCOGNITA

‘King of the castle’ GentlEmen's meeting

Stone: Back on Wall Street The bespoke coach

Dressy and relaxed: Jacket required It makes the difference

The tools of the trade PAST-Present-future

Fresh news

Autumn-winter 2010-2011 trends

The new model: More colour, more casual

Scabal worldwide

Andrew Marshall Andrew Marshall is a freelance travel photojournalist born in England who attended a Fine Arts course in Newcastle and various photographic courses in Australia. For the past 20 years, he has travelled to more than 50 countries around the world including Sri Lanka, the Solomon Islands, Barbados, Panama and Hungary to cover a diverse range of lifestyle, travel, golf, and food and wine features for various magazines around the world. He also supplies photographs for Lonely Planet Images, he often works with his photographer brother, Paul. Andrew is based in West Yorkshire, England.

WILLIAM KISSEL William Kissel is a men’s fashion editor who has been writing about the worldwide luxury menswear industry for more than three decades. A three-time recipient of both the Men’s Fashion Association’s Aldo Award and the prestigious Atrium Award for outstanding reporting on the American garment industry, Kissel’s work has appeared in more than 20 national magazines and daily newspapers across the United States. For the past 13 years, he has served as the fashion editor for the Robb Report, the US magazine devoted to luxury lifestyles, and at the same time, for nearly 20 years, Kissel has been the editor-at-large for MR, an American trade magazine for the menswear industry.

NINO CERRUTI Hailing from the Piedmont region in Italy, Nino Cerruti is a renowned designer who established the muchloved ready-to-wear luxury and perfume range Cerruti 1881 in 1957. In 1950, aged just 20, Nino took over the reins of the family business, a weaving firm that was founded in 1881 by Lanificio Cerruti, from his father and grandfather. In 1967, he opened his flagship store and head offices Place de la Madeleine in Paris. During the 1990s, the company dressed prestigious actors in hit films, such as Richard Gere and Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. In 1999, their first US outlet opened on Madison Avenue in New York, then in Asia in 2000 with a shop in Hong Kong, followed by Saint-Tropez, Antibes and Munich. Quite simply, it’s one of the world’s most prestigious ready-to-wear/luxury perfume marques. Nino knows whereof he speaks!

ALAn CAnnon-JoneS Alan Cannon-Jones is a course director and principal lecturer in the graduate school at the London College of Fashion and works as a consultant for tailoring, menswear and fashion design technology in the industry. He had more than 20 years’ experience working in the tailoring industry for a number of companies, including Chester Barrie, before taking up a position at the London College of Fashion. He is also a regular contributor to conferences on the subjects of menswear, bespoke tailoring and mass customization. He is the author of Bespoken’s much-appreciated ‘Tailor’s Dictionary’.

Text: Jérôme Stéfanski Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Bespoken

CONTRIBUTORS

DREAM TEAM

03 05 06 07 08 12 14 16 22 28 32 4

editorial comment

Bright future for tailoring DREAM TEAM

Contributors confession

The ‘slow suit’ world TEMPTATIONS

Bespoke gifts for all IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

In control of quality tailor’s dictionary

From M to O from sheep to shop

Scabal’s closely guarded secret SPRING-summer must-haves by scabal

Style symmetry History of tailoring

Suits through the centuries SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Old traditions meet a new generation LEGENDARY WORKSHOP

The bespoke suit process

Bespoken

35 37 38 50 54 56 59 60 62 64

THE GOURMET PLACE

Tailors’ tips

THE CLASSICS

When tailoring inspires culture spring-summer 2010-2011 trends

Tailoring with a twist TERRA INCOGNITA

‘King of the castle’ GentlEmen's meeting

Stone: Back on Wall Street The bespoke coach

Dressy and relaxed: Jacket required It makes the difference

The tools of the trade PAST-Present-future

Fresh news

Autumn-winter 2010-2011 trends

The new model: More colour, more casual

Scabal worldwide

Text: Jérôme Stéfanski Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

Bespoken

CONFESSION

TEMPTATIONS

THE ‘SLOW SUIT’ WORLD

BESPOKE GIFTS FOR ALL

At a time when new technologies increasingly allow us to have ‘everything at once’, certain goods seem to have lost some of their former allure. But some luxury items are desirable simply because it is impossible to have them immediately. Nino Cerruti offers his point of view…

Isn’t it the family to whom we always turn to give us shelter from the storms? So why wait until Christmas to show your appreciation for your loved one – isn’t any time a good time? And, of course, Bespoken is on hand to help.

For Dad: Customized cufflinks

entered the world of bespoke tailoring at the very beginning of my career – at the end of the 1940s. At that time, the woollen mill did not work directly with tailors, but with tailoring firms from all over the world. I spent some time in Rome and in Milan, not just for business, but also for pleasure. On these occasions, I had the chance to meet the renowned names of tailoring, and had the chance to learn much from them.

I have treasured every piece of work that I have done in collaboration with these talented people, all of whom have very different ways of working. They are the ambassadors for beautiful fabrics that produce clothes that are a pleasure to wear, as well as an aesthetic joy. Nino Cerruti

Tailoring is an art that is learned only gradually, which one never controls completely, because every man to be tailored is different. It is not an exact science, and that is what makes the craft so beautiful. Therefore, much time is needed to learn a tailor’s skills.

And much time is also necessary to produce a bespoke suit. This is the work of skillful hands – this is the ‘slowsuit’ world. Thus, when a man wears a bespoke suit, it is not merely an attractive portion of well-cut fabric, it speaks also of the innumerable hours that it will have taken the skilled, passionate tailor to make the suit – beyond price.

This is the work of skillful hands – this is the ‘slow-suit’ world I think that ‘slow-suit’ is the perfect contemporary name for bespoke – a world in which tailoring and design combine to provide life and style choices. Time is a luxury, and luxury is time.

Nino Cerruti

Bespoke cufflinks are becoming increasingly popular. So much so, if you type ‘customized cufflinks’ in Google, nearly 600,000 results appear. A difficult jungle to negotiate, then? Not at all – let JSL Berlin be your reference point. Entirely hand-made, from a huge range of beautiful materials including gold, enamel, silver, titanium and precious stones, the possibilities for personalization are limitless. Inspired by Scabal’s Lapis Lazuli fabrics collection, JSL has recently released a limitededition collection of ten exclusive cufflinks made from 18-carat white gold, lapis lazuli and blue sapphires. A gift that the old man will be proud to show off at the office… Bespoke handmade cufflinks in 18K gold or white gold from 2,500€ € www.jslberlin.com

For your daughter: A Personalized teddy bear Thanks to Build-A-Bear Workshop, your little one can create the cuddly toy of her dreams. After having chosen their animal (dog, cat, crocodile, lion, tiger, elephant, bear, rabbit…) your child, helped by a shop assistant, fills their new friend up themselves – how fat or trim is entirely their choice. Then, a small fabric heart, carrying your daughter’s most special wish, is sewn into the toy. And why not select some cool accessories? There are T-shirts, smart jackets, trousers, skirts, shoes, sunglasses, socks, caps – even cellphones and mp3 players are available! And the icing on the cake? A passport for the teddy is also provided, so your child knows that their new best friend can go anywhere with them. And it’s a present for grown-ups too, apparently. Around 35€€ for a personalized bear with accessories www.buildabear.com

For Mum: Bespoke shoes Times Online recently revealed that, according to their survey, 8 per cent of British women own more than 100 pairs of shoes! But, along with such famous names as Jimmy Choo, Prada, Christian Louboutin, or Bottega Veneta, there are artists offering bespoke shoemaking services, rather than merely seasonal collections. A case in point is London shoemaker Caroline Groves, who creates individualized footwear in close co-operation with her clients: “My shoes are often whimsical, quixotic, and are made using only the finest available leather.” Doubtless mum will find a place of honour among her 100 pairs for such shoes! Prices range from 1,850€ to 2,850€ www.carolinegroves.co.uk

For your son: A hand-made pedal car So, you drive an Aston Martin and at the weekend love sailing in your Riva. And what about your son? Well, he’s not old enough yet for the real thing but, with Violetta Toys, he can come pretty close! Located in beautiful Cannes, Violetta can reproduce any model of car or boat, adapted to your child’s exact specifications. The vehicles run on a very efficient power-pedal engine, and are made from the same high-quality materials as their grown-up equivalents (aluminum, wood, bronze, stainless steel). Identical engineering techniques are also employed in the replicas’ manufacture, and each model is produced in a limited series – you can even order a unique model! Prices available on request www.prestigetoygift.com Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken

CONFESSION

TEMPTATIONS

THE ‘SLOW SUIT’ WORLD

BESPOKE GIFTS FOR ALL

For Dad: Customized cufflinks

Nino Cerruti

Bespoken

IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

IN CONTRol OF QUALITY The creation of fabrics and made-to-measure garments is a complex, painstaking process – at Scabal's headquarters, we meet five employees who play key roles in ensuring quality control.

“

Without our dedication to the finest quality materials, inspection processes and production techniques, Scabal would not be in a position to offer to its clients the level of workmanship and finish that have established our name as a market leader in the world of fine fabrics and personalized clothing.” So says Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen, immortalizing the philosophy that is echoed throughout the company in its perpetual pursuit of quality. This attention to detail is applied across every section of the business, be it selecting the finest fabrics, or daily interaction with old or new clients. Without maintaining and improving the standards of quality, reputations are lost. Great emphasis is placed on quality control. To ensure this, there is a total reliance on people who have the knowledge, skill and enthusiasm to make quality a reality.

Lino Fanello, Fabrics Quality Controller

Nora KraËmer, Fabrics Design Assistant

“It is incredibly important that the systems set up to manage the high number of fabrics passing through the department work smoothly and efficiently. With these in place, my team and I can concentrate on ensuring that the product sent forward to the next stage has already met with the high standards demanded by Scabal”

“The opportunity to keep learning on a day-to-day basis, and thus gain a greater knowledge of all aspects of the supply process, places me in a position whereby I can, with confidence, guarantee that the standards set by the company are met, and where possible, improved.”

With some 37 years’ experience and a staff of ten, Lino is in charge of an area of the business that is rarely seen by clients. Some 10,000 rolls of fabric pass through his control every year and, while this can be logistically and bureaucratically intensive, it is a key part of quality control. Checking for imperfections is a daily ritual that is crucial to ensuring that each fabric meets Scabal standards. Many are rejected – the very nature of this labour-intensive work means the fabrics are subjected to the closest scrutiny, and this is where Lino and his team apply the quality controls that are needed. Working closely with the fabricbuying department, Lino’s wealth of experience and knowledge are crucial.

As assistant buyer in the fabric department, Nora is in daily contact with Lino. This continuous chain of quality control extends to her dealings in the supply of a multitude of fabrics to various markets, from Russia to the Mexico. As it is often the first point of call for production sites, the aspect of a quality service extends not only to that of the correct fabrics being chosen, presented, recommended and delivered, but also that partners are dealt with in a polite and courteous manner. With more than 5,000 fabrics in the collection, an organized and knowledgeable approach is required. This knowledge, gained from the wide experience that Kraëmer has in her work and in conjunction with an ongoing product-knowledge development, puts her in a position where she has an important part to play in the overall process of quality control. From top, left to right: Lino Fanello, Danny Terrijn, Nora Kraëmer, Nadia Droyers and Roxane Van Maldegem

Bespoken

IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

“

Lino Fanello, Fabrics Quality Controller

Nora KraËmer, Fabrics Design Assistant

Bespoken

Danny Terrijn, Master Tailor “Some clients will not be fully aware of the degree of quality control that goes into their new suit. But, for me, I very much enjoy being part of the overall process that delivers the finished product and being in a position whereby I can have a direct impact on our customers’ satisfaction.” Having worked for Scabal for 19 years, and with some 37 years’ overall experience in the world of tailoring, Danny’s knowledge is invaluable. As a master tailor within the company, he often has direct contact with customers worldwide. While this may mean dealing with different languages and cultures, his philosophy does not change – every suit is individual, and deserves the exacting standards necessary to carry the Scabal name. In Brussels, Danny ensures that strict quality guidelines are met concerning the overall finish of the garment, which includes lining, buttons and threads, before the finished articles are sent for international distribution to countries such as the UK and Canada. Should a minor adjustment be needed, he is on hand to ensure the work is completed. Danny enjoys the interactive processes involved, and fully adheres to the maxim that ‘Quality is King’.

Bespoken

Nadia Droyers, Made-To-Measure Development Roxane Van Maldegem, Product Development “We both enjoy the diversity and challenge of our work and the opportunity to then pass on this knowledge to others, both here and abroad. In being part of the quality control team and individually responsible for two different product ranges, we see immediately the importance of maintaining the very high standards necessary to ensure a top-quality product.” While Nadia’s role is made-to-measure development and Roxane’s product development, they both ensure that activities under their control meet the necessary exacting standards. Both provide in-house seminars on how to measure for a garment and also visit Scabal retailers worldwide to provide their expertise. In doing so, they ensure that the standards adhered to by the company are maintained. Nadia predominantly deals with the Scabal No.12 collection – hand-made suits using traditional work methods. In this, she is responsible for any day-to-day enquiries, concerning cut, workmanship and patterns. She oversees a team whose responsibility is to analyse and process each individual made-to-measure order from customers around the world – this is absolutely

essential to ensure that a suit fits a client perfectly. Roxane has a similar quality-control role for garments made in Scabal’s German factory. This requires her to regularly visit the factory, to ensure stringent quality control. In any company where quality is the key aspect, it is absolutely vital to ensure that the people and systems are in place to ensure its delivery. As individuals, they all have very different roles, expertise, knowledge and experience but it is this very mixture, when they are working as a team, which ensures that the process runs efficiently. This in turn guarantees that a client is provided with a product that, via the very nature of the journey it has taken to arrive, has undergone and passed the many rigorous quality tests set by the company. As Gregor Thissen explains: “The knowledge, expertise and enthusiasm of Scabal’s staff in the quality control department and their ability to interact and work as a team, ensure that the highest standards associated with the brand are maintained, and wherever possible, improved upon.”

Baunat kindly invites you to its online boutique Discover our high quality diamond jewellery collections at home and find out why Baunat can guarantee you the best possible prices www.baunat.com

Long may this continue.

Text and photographs: Stephen Papandropoulos

Baunat guarantees : Top quality in matter of design, manufacture and materials – 20 years quality guarantee, supported by the unique Responsibility Mark and diamond certificate – fast, insured and free deliveries – 30 day return policy – a fully secured payment thanks to SSL technology.

Bespoken

Baunat kindly invites you to its online boutique Discover our high quality diamond jewellery collections at home and find out why Baunat can guarantee you the best possible prices www.baunat.com

Long may this continue.

Text and photographs: Stephen Papandropoulos

Tailor’s Dictionary

From M to O Bespoke-suits specialist Alan-Cannon Jones once again provides the definitions of tailors’ technical terms.

Machine Twist A thread processed for use on a sewing machine.

Model

The original garment made up from a design. The original sample.

Needle

Openness USE OF THE NEEDLE

pocket

needle

hand sewing

Monofilament Thread

A thread comprising only one continuous filament, which could be gut or man-made nylon.

fly the gap

thread passes through the eye shaft

eye open leg angle

point

Magyar Sleeve

A sleeve that is cut integrally with the body of the garment and the two sections being joined from the neck to wrist over the shoulder and from the side seam to wrist under the sleeve. Wedge-shaped pieces of fabric are inserted under the arm to allow freedom of movement.

Make Through

The traditional method of garment manufacture, in which one person makes a complete garment one at a time.

Making Up

The process of converting fabric into garments.

Marker

The drawing (manually or on screen – CAD/CAM) of the final arrangement of patterns for the component parts of a garment or garments in the form of a master plan for making the best use of the material. The marker is placed on the lay prior to cutting. With CAD/CAM this process is carried out digitally.

Marking In

Marking around all the component patterns with chalk (bespoke) or other means (pen or pencil, digitally with CAD/CAM) to indicate where the fabric is to be cut. The term also applies to paper markers.

Measure Cutting

The cutting of a garment to individual measurements.

Bespoken

Moulding

The application of heat and/or pressure to a fabric on a pre-shaped mould to shape a garment or garment parts. This process can be used in the production of a full-chested jacket.

front crease

sewing machine needle

point

eye

shaft

groove to carry the thread

Multifilament Thread

A thread consisting of a number of individual continuous filaments. This is the most common process for producing sewing thread.

N Nap

A fibrous surface to the fabric which is raised from the basic structure. This may have a different feel to the touch, being rough in one direction and smooth the other. Fabrics with a nap should be cut only in one direction, smooth for cashmere, camel-hair and rough for velvet and corduroy.

Neatening

Finishing a cut edge to prevent fraying. Various methods include turning the edge, pinking, overlocking and taping.

pocket

needle & thread

sewing the edges of the jacket

A thin shaft of steel used for sewing, pointed at one end, with an eye to carry the thread.

Non-woven fabric

A fabric made by the bonding of fibres via chemical or mechanical means. Some under-collar fabrics are constructed in this way.

Notches

The allowance for the leg stance in the angle of the leg seams on trousers.

Overall

Workwear, usually designed to be worn over everyday clothes to give protection. Workwear includes the original design of jeans.

Over-edging

front crease

trouser front

Small cuts made in the edges of a garment part during the cutting process, which act as guides during the assembly operations.

Off-pressing

The final pressing operations on a garment after assembly. Also known as pressing off.

OR zig-zag stitch

T-shape stitch

An overedge stitch, made either by hand or machine, to bind the edge of the fabric to avoid fraying. This can also be used as a decorative stitch. This is also known as overlocking or an overlocked edge. Text: Alan Cannon-Jones Illustrations: Hormazad Narielwalla

Bespoken

Tailor’s Dictionary

From M to O Bespoke-suits specialist Alan-Cannon Jones once again provides the definitions of tailors’ technical terms.

Machine Twist A thread processed for use on a sewing machine.

Model

The original garment made up from a design. The original sample.

Needle

Openness USE OF THE NEEDLE

pocket

needle

hand sewing

Monofilament Thread

A thread comprising only one continuous filament, which could be gut or man-made nylon.

fly the gap

thread passes through the eye shaft

eye open leg angle

point

Magyar Sleeve

Make Through

The traditional method of garment manufacture, in which one person makes a complete garment one at a time.

Making Up

The process of converting fabric into garments.

Marker

Marking In

Measure Cutting

The cutting of a garment to individual measurements.

Bespoken

Moulding

The application of heat and/or pressure to a fabric on a pre-shaped mould to shape a garment or garment parts. This process can be used in the production of a full-chested jacket.

front crease

sewing machine needle

point

eye

shaft

groove to carry the thread

Multifilament Thread

A thread consisting of a number of individual continuous filaments. This is the most common process for producing sewing thread.

N Nap

Neatening

Finishing a cut edge to prevent fraying. Various methods include turning the edge, pinking, overlocking and taping.

pocket

needle & thread

sewing the edges of the jacket

A thin shaft of steel used for sewing, pointed at one end, with an eye to carry the thread.

Non-woven fabric

A fabric made by the bonding of fibres via chemical or mechanical means. Some under-collar fabrics are constructed in this way.

Notches

The allowance for the leg stance in the angle of the leg seams on trousers.

Overall

Workwear, usually designed to be worn over everyday clothes to give protection. Workwear includes the original design of jeans.

Over-edging

front crease

trouser front

Small cuts made in the edges of a garment part during the cutting process, which act as guides during the assembly operations.

Off-pressing

The final pressing operations on a garment after assembly. Also known as pressing off.

OR zig-zag stitch

T-shape stitch

Bespoken

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

Scabal’s CLOSELY GUARDED SECRET For sheer luxury and exclusiveness, one item in Scabal’s new collection stands out: Treasure Box.

The first golden threads from Scabal went onto the market in 2000, with a 22-carat collection called Gold Treasure. Now Scabal has raised the bar even higher – using advanced processing techniques, the company has added thread with platinum, a metal that is harder than gold and even more precious (see panel). This breakthrough, combining craftsmanship with high technology, is another ‘first’ for Scabal.

15 precious fabrics The Scabal Treasure Box contains a collection of 15 exquisite Super 150’s with precious metals – three new fabrics with platinum stripes; three that mix platinum and 24-carat gold in alternate stripes; seven top sellers from the Gold Treasure 22-carat range, and two new 24-carat gold cloths with a stronger, thicker stripe. All the fabrics are in dark blues, greys and black, enhancing the refined metallic shimmer of gold and platinum. They are designed by Scabal and produced in the heart of England’s traditional cloth-manufacturing region. “We introduced Treasure Box recently,” says J. Peter Thissen. “Although there is not much seasonality, demand peaks at the end of the year with its festivities and gift occasions.”

Flair, not flash But who wears suits with gold or platinum thread? And in times such as these? “We aim for the gentleman look,” explains Scabal President J. Peter Thissen, “using the finest materials to create exclusive products. Our preciousmetal collection is more flair than flash; an inspiring fabric for a special occasion.

Technical challenge Making metal thread for suiting is a difficult process. In fact, the thread has a cotton core around which the decorative metal is wrapped, so the metal must be soft and malleable, but strong enough to be woven.

“Top brands should always stimulate the market with new ideas. That’s the role of leaders, even in difficult times. The Scabal Treasure Box is something special – a unique limited edition for the world’s top tailors, retailers and their customers.”

Weave tension is key. Too slack and the yarn won’t weave straight, too tight and it will break. The decoration yarn is fed in at a different tension from the cloth, adding to the difficulty – getting the tension-balance right with platinum has proved particularly difficult.

Bespoken

‘TOP BRANDS should always stimulate the market with ideas’ Precious stones The precious-metal threads in The Treasure Box contrast with Scabal’s precious-stone fabrics: Diamond Chip and Lapis Lazuli. Here, the stones are ground up and incorporated within the wool, giving a luxurious sheen to the whole fabric. Diamond Chip is a Super 150’s with 20 per cent silk mixed with diamond fragments before the wool is spun. The renowned Lapis Lazuli cloth is an exclusive Scabal range of ultra-fine 150’s wool with 14 blueon-blue designs. Microscopic particles of the precious stone – revered for its therapeutic and decorative properties for more than 6,000 years – are evenly distributed by hand at the end of the weaving process. They are then captured by the straightened fibres, giving a discreet and harmonious blue sheen to the cloth. If you’re looking for a truly exclusive suit for that special occasion, Scabal’s Treasure Box could be the solution. And with the price of precious metals rising again, it might also prove a smart investment…

Platinum thread Every company has its secrets. High on the list at Scabal is the process of combining precious metals with yarn to create prestigious striped suiting fabric. It’s a jealously guarded secret… and it’s unique to Scabal.

Treasure Box by Scabal

Platinum At more than $1,300 per troy ounce, platinum is more precious than gold or silver. Its lustrous, whitesilvery colour combined with high malleability and resistance to wear make it an ideal material for fine jewellery, in addition to its industrial uses that range from precision electronics to dentistry. Platinum is extremely rare, but apparently

abundant on the moon, which explains why it is found in higher concentrations at sites of bolide impact on our planet. Gold A symbol of luxury and standard of payment for almost 5,000 years, gold has been the most sought-after and fought-over precious metal since history began. On the practical side,

it is not only dense, soft and shiny, but also the most malleable and ductile pure metal known. A single gram of gold can be beaten into a square-metre sheet. Herein lie gold’s possibilities for making jewellery. South Africa is the world’s largest producer, while India is the primary consumer. The gold price recently hit a new record at $1,068 per troy ounce.

Nigel Bishop Bespoken

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

Scabal’s CLOSELY GUARDED SECRET For sheer luxury and exclusiveness, one item in Scabal’s new collection stands out: Treasure Box.

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Treasure Box by Scabal

Nigel Bishop Bespoken

Spring-Summer must-haves by scabal

Style symmetry

“The woman is the belt that holds up the man’s trousers.” – African proverb

“The knot is to the tie what the mind is to the man.” – François de la Rochefoucauld 100 per cent pure-silk tie, Cambridge Collection 16

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Genuine leather navy-blue belt: Sydney II Collection Genuine plaited leather white and blue belt: Townsville II Collection Genuine deerskin light-brown belt: Adelaide II Collection Genuine ostrich-leather red belt: Mackay II Collection 98 per cent cotton/2 per cent lycra trousers from Saint-Raphaël Collection White and orange pocket handkerchief from Kensington Collection Bespoken

Spring-Summer must-haves by scabal

Style symmetry

“The woman is the belt that holds up the man’s trousers.” – African proverb

“The knot is to the tie what the mind is to the man.” – François de la Rochefoucauld 100 per cent pure-silk tie, Cambridge Collection 16

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Photographer: Filip Vanzieleghem Production: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski

Who are the

54 others ?

Eric van de Poele - 5 time winner of the 24 Hours of Spa-Francorchamps N° 01/55

55 and no one more.

Power reserve, second time zone, 42 mm.

“Beware of the bear when he tucks in his shirt.” – English proverb 100 per cent silk bow ties from Brighton Collection 100 per cent linen and 100 per cent cotton shirts from Scabal’s collection 18

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www.raidillon.com

Photographer: Filip Vanzieleghem Production: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski

Who are the

54 others ?

Eric van de Poele - 5 time winner of the 24 Hours of Spa-Francorchamps N° 01/55

55 and no one more.

Power reserve, second time zone, 42 mm.

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www.raidillon.com

SPECIAL FEATURE

THE WORLD OF TAILORING

A BREAKTHROUGH TO THE 21ST CENTURY

HISTORY OF TAILORING

Suits through the centuries

TURBINE TITANIUM A5006/1

Page 22 SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Old traditions meet a new generation Page 28 LEGENDARY WORKSHOP

The Bespoke suit process Page 32 THE GOURMET PLACE

TAILORS’ TIPS Page 35 THE CLASSICS

When tailoring inspires culture Page 37

www.perrelet.com

SPECIAL FEATURE

THE WORLD OF TAILORING

A BREAKTHROUGH TO THE 21ST CENTURY

HISTORY OF TAILORING

Suits through the centuries

TURBINE TITANIUM A5006/1

Page 22 SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Old traditions meet a new generation Page 28 LEGENDARY WORKSHOP

The Bespoke suit process Page 32 THE GOURMET PLACE

TAILORS’ TIPS Page 35 THE CLASSICS

When tailoring inspires culture Page 37

www.perrelet.com

SUITS THROUGH THE CENTURIES Bespoken takes you on trip back in time to trace the evolution of tailoring. Remember, the future is built in the past.

History of tailoring

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra bring a taste of American swagger to the UK as they land at Heathrow in August 1961. Hollywood tailor Sy Devore is reputed to have been their stylist.

n this age of globalization, it is useful to recall that the international stories of tailoring have been interlinked for many centuries. Like a 3-D representation of the structure of DNA, the heritage of tailoring comprises a series of centres that are linked in a self-supporting network. The roots of the cross-border relationships are often to be found far back in history, but we remember them today in the specialist terminology of the bespoke tailoring world. Worsted, one of the best-known types of cloth, takes its name from a village in Norfolk, England, that was the centre of the medieval wool trade. Saxonies were named after the merino sheep raised in Saxony, a south-eastern part of modern-day Germany. Cheviot wools originally came from the Cheviot Hills in the Scottish Borders. Damask, the richly decorated silk fabric, was brought to Europe from Damascus.

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Donegal tweeds were originally hand-woven in County Donegal in north-west Ireland, while the country-oriented cloth melton was first woven for hunting clothes in Melton Mowbray, in Leicestershire, England. Birth of tailoring To track the development of men’s tailoring is to follow the major pathways of European history. According to the eminent American writer on menswear, G. Bruce Boyer, the Oxford English Dictionary’s first reference to the word “tailor” gives the specific date of 1297. Afficionados of bespoke tailoring will know that the word originates from the Old French taillour, or “cutter”, which itself is derived from the Latin taliare, meaning “to cut”. It is also worth remembering that the first industrial sewing machine was not patented until 1830, when a French tailor, Barthélemy Thimonnier, registered

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SUITS THROUGH THE CENTURIES Bespoken takes you on trip back in time to trace the evolution of tailoring. Remember, the future is built in the past.

History of tailoring

Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra bring a taste of American swagger to the UK as they land at Heathrow in August 1961. Hollywood tailor Sy Devore is reputed to have been their stylist.

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William Shakespeare had highlighted in his play Richard II the stylistic power of the ruling classes of Italy. In the play — which was set in the late 1300s — the Duke of York critically remarks that the unimaginative English court — “tardy” and “apish” are a couple of his adjectives — “limps after in base imitation” the “fashions in proud Italy”. International rivalry in the style wars, then, is nothing new. The fact that the English tailoring tradition, still thriving in the spotlight that shines on Savile Row, is pre-eminent today is due to the peculiar behaviour of the British aristocracy. While their French cousins were required to remain in the enclosed and unreal world of Versailles, from the late 17th century onwards the British ruling classes spent large parts of the year away from court on their country estates. There, the main pastimes were riding and hunting on horseback and necessity required that the long coats or jackets they wore at court were adapted for equestrian pursuits.

First sewing machines by Thimonier (left) and Howe (right) marked the birth of tailoring

the design of one that sewed straight seams using chain stitch. Walter Hunt developed one in the US in 1833, but declined to patent it. In 1842, John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in the United States, followed in 1845 by Elias Howe, who patented a machine that sewed lock stitch. The implication of these developments, of course, is that prior to the 1840, all clothes were made by hand. It follows, therefore, that tailors were numerous and were, unsurprisingly, an essential part of the social and commercial structure of a community. As early as the 12th century, tailors were forming guilds across Europe to set and monitor standards, to protect business interests and to organize apprenticeships. In 1351, the clothing craftsmen of Naples founded the Confraternita dell’arte dei Giubbonai e dei Cositori (the Brotherhood of the Jacket Makers and of the Tailors). The Merchant Taylors’ Company, one of the 12 great Livery Companies of the City of London, can trace its origins back to 1327, when it was a religious and social fraternity that brought together tailors and linen armourers, who made the padded tunics worn under armour. By the end of the 1400s, the company controlled the tailoring trade in London, but 200 years later its association with tailoring is limited. (The Merchant Taylors’ Company exists today, as is the case with more than 100 other London Livery companies, as an association devoted to education, charitable activities and the promotion of fine tailoring). influence of the European ruling classes Taylor (rather than tailor) is among the most commonly found surnames in the English-speaking world, due to tailoring’s frequency as a medieval occupation. In other languages, it is also widely found, such as Schneider (German), Shnaydor (Yiddish), Krawiec or Kravitz (Polish), Szabó (Hungarian), Sastre (Spanish), Portnoy (Russian), Krejčí (Czech) and Kleermaker (Dutch).

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Advertisement for Howe’s sewing machine in 1845, humbly underlined ‘The grandest production of inventive genius’

In the history of men’s tailoring, the defining influence of the Dutch is often overlooked. But the mastery of the northern seas enjoyed by the Dutch navy in the 1660s was instrumental in the development of that menswear keystone, the three-piece suit. England’s naval war with the Netherlands was a disaster for King Charles II, whose reign had already been blighted by the Great Plague of 1665 and the catastrophic Great Fire of London the following year. To reflect the sombre mood of 1666, in October that year the English monarch decreed that court dress had to be simplified, rejecting the prevailing decorative excesses. The knee-length jacket or coat, the equally long waistcoat and the knee breeches — all in the same simple dark cloth — formed what many costume historians regard as the first three-piece suit. What today might be regarded as a PR stunt to allay public opinion did not last long, however, and the Stuart court soon returned to its displays of finery. The fact that Charles II had spent 11 years in exile, mainly in France, following the execution of his father Charles I in 1649, brought an interesting creative tension between the two major powers in Europe, interesting at least to students of menswear. The courts in London and Paris vied for the ascendancy in setting the agenda among the ruling aristocracy for dressing properly. Alongside England and France, Italy has cast a long shadow of influence on menswear. As early as 1598,

While silk was a desirable fabric for court dress, wool cloth was a more practical alternative for riding clothes. As costume historian Norah Waugh has observed: “By the end of the eighteenth century, English tailors became the leaders of men’s fashions because their long experience of the subtleties of cloth had developed their skill and they gave style and elegance to the practical country coats and so made them acceptable for fashion wear”. The first dandies Between 1789 and 1820 the English Prince Regent (later King George IV) was the first in series of princes to be what we would now call a trend-setter. The Prince was for a time accepted into the circle of George ‘Beau’ Brummell, the legendary menswear style icon. Often wrongly described as a dandy or flamboyant dresser, the Beau’s credo was all about simplicity, elegance and correctness, not peacock-like showiness. It is important to note that ‘The Beau’ had his clothes tailored to fit him closely. At the time, most of the clothes worn by the aristocracy were poorly made and fitted loosely. Beau Brummell ensured that his clothes were without a wrinkle. Although the look of men’s clothes is very different today, Brummell’s obsession with correctness permeates the finest modern menswear. Looking back, it is impossible to over-exaggerate the influence of the ruling classes on what polite society wore. Kings, emperors and their aristocratic courtiers were the templates against which other less-exalted mortals compared themselves. By the mid-1800s, the global reach of the British Empire — “the empire on which the sun never sets” — meant that London was the undisputed source of stylistic guidance for men. The ultimate arbiter of men’s style between the 19 th and 20 th centuries was Edward, Prince of Wales, the oldest son and heir to Queen Victoria. As he had to wait until 1901, when he was 59, for his mother to die,

The Merchant Taylors’ Hall, at 30 Threadneedle Street, London

this king-in-waiting lived the life of a playboy, enjoying regular visits to European resorts such as Marienbad, Homburg, Biarritz and Cannes, and travelling further afield to India, Egypt and the US. Born on 9 November 1841, just two years after the first daguerreotype had been unveiled to the public, Edward was the first menswear pin-up, pursued wherever he went by 19 thcentury paparazzi who wanted to photograph what the Prince of Style was wearing. As Edward patronised Savile Row — often but not only the house of Henry Poole — the Mayfair district became internationally accepted as the rightful destination of any man wishing to dress correctly. When Edward — by then King Edward VII — died on 6 May 1910, the German Chancellor, Prince von Bulow, remarked: “In the country in which unquestionably the gentlemen dressed best, he was the best-dressed gentleman.” And even three decades after his death on 28 May 1972, another prince, who was christened Edward Albert Christian George Andrew Patrick David, is still regarded as the most influential menswear style icon of the past 100 years. He made this reputation while the Prince of Wales, and following his short spell as King Edward VIII in 1936, continued it as the Duke of Windsor. Born on 23 June 1894, Prince Edward was a champion of wearing bright colours, clashing patterns and of “dressing soft”. He liked comfort in his clothes and he popularised the now-classic ‘English Drape’ look, on which jackets are cut with an inch or so of spare cloth in the chest and shoulder blades. With the shoulders sloped and unpadded, a fullness in the chest combined with a slim waist and hips, the Drape both looks and feels natural. Today Anderson & Sheppard in London is the most prestigious exponent of the Drape and Prince Charles, the current Prince of Wales, is its most high-profile champion. As a globe-trotting champion for British trade and international relations, in the 1920s and early 1930s, Edward, Prince of Wales, found his style emulated in Japan and the US. (Such was his influence in Japan that the name of his battleship, HMS Renown, was adopted by a Japanese clothing company. The modern-day

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First sewing machines by Thimonier (left) and Howe (right) marked the birth of tailoring

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Advertisement for Howe’s sewing machine in 1845, humbly underlined ‘The grandest production of inventive genius’

The Merchant Taylors’ Hall, at 30 Threadneedle Street, London

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The first trend-setters: Edward Prince of Wales (left), Beau Brummell (centre) and George IV (right)

Renown has many menswear interests and only recently sold the British firm Aquascutum). In America, the Prince of Wales’s high-profile image helped cement the reputation of London as the home of the finest tailors and suppliers of men’s furnishings and accessories. Even today, a large portion of Savile Row’s customers are American — a valuable reminder of the globalization of luxury dressing. influence of the Row As we have already noted, other countries had their own distinct tailoring traditions, but such was the reputation of Savile Row that others were eager to learn from the English masters. Among those that did so were the tailors of Naples. The nearby historic site of Pompeii was a regular stop on the ‘Grand Tour’ of Europe conducted by artistically inclined British aristocrats well into the early years of 20 th century. Finding that their clothes were too heavy for the blistering climate of southern Italy, they left their English suits with Neapolitan tailors, so lighter copies could be made. The Neapolitans were not slow in dissecting the Savile Row creations and learning a lot from the Mayfair style of construction.

bespoke tailoring have been the result of the EnglandItaly axis. As befits a country that was created from different aristocratic states during the 1860s and 1870s, Italy has had distinct regional variations in tailoring styles for centuries. Today the three centres for bespoke tailoring are Milan, Rome and Naples. The seriousminded economic centre of Milan largely has kept close to the British template, offering discreet, unshowy, even sober tailoring.

To the north-east of Naples, across the Apennines, the tailors in the region of Abruzzo also learned much from Savile Row, thanks, so legend has it, to a locally born musician, Francesco Paolo Tosti. The singing master to the British royal family around the turn of the 20 th century, Tosti sent his unwanted Savile Row suits to his relations in Abruzzo, where local tailors expertly unpicked them to learn their secrets.

The reputation of Rome was secured in the immediate post-war period by Brioni, a company created in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli, a tailor from Penne in Abruzzo, and Gaetano Savini, his partner who proved to be an excellent salesman and publicist. The Roman emphasis is on a lean but comfortable silhouette. The cloth sits close to the body yet does not bind or pull. The well proportioned shoulders, typically square or concave, go only to the natural shoulderline (English suits extend just a fraction beyond it). The gorge, the point where the lapels, meet is high, as is the waist. Called Lo Stilo Italiano, this look became internationally renowned through Brioni’s tireless and innovative international marketing activities in the 1950s and from the exposure provided by Federico Fellini’s film, La Dolce Vita in 1960, in which all the main male characters projected the cool image. The steady flow of Hollywood stars coming to film at the Cinecittà studios in Rome helped Brioni and the ‘Roman look’ build an international clientele and reputation. Today, as well as Brioni, the branches of Caraceni in the Italian capital encapsulate the Roman style, which is sometimes regarded as the ‘power look’.

ITALIAN STYLES In the modern era, and certainly since the 1950s, the most significant influences on the development of

Roman tailoring is in contrast with the more easygoing, somewhat relaxed attitude of the Neapolitan tailors. Deriving its name from the Greek Nea Polis,

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Marcello Mastroianni wearing Brioni in La Dolce Vita (1960) by Fellini

or “new city”, Naples was for centuries a hugely wealthy trading port as well as the capital of the Kingdom of Naples and the Two Sicilies. In 1611, reportedly, there were 607 registered tailors in the city attending to the needs of wealthy clients. After the unification of Italy in the 1870s Naples retained its reputation as a city of style. In the 1920s, Gennaro Rubinacci, whose family had made its considerable fortune from trading silks from the Far East, opened a tailoring shop, which in homage to the recognised centre of excellence he called London House. But like the Neapolitan tailors in earlier decades that had made lightweight clothes for English aristocrats, Rubinacci favoured a style that used lightweight fabrics and incorporated as little padding and interlining as possible. Today the firm of Rubinacci — now run by Gennaro’s son Mariano and grandson Luca — is recognized as one of the finest exponents of classic Neapolitan style. Sometimes only half-lined or totally unlined, with a soft shoulder line, a Rubinacci jacket often carries a slightly curved breast pocket whose line echoes that of a sailing boat, the barchetta. Also enjoying an internationally reputation as a skilled exponent of the Neapolitan style is Kiton, which was established in 1968 by Ciro Paone and Antonio Carola. Having taken its name from the ‘chiton’, the traditional tunic of ancient Greece, Kiton has built its reputation on using very rare and expensive fabrics. Appropriately, Paone’s family had traded in textiles for four generations. Underlining even Naples’ obsession

with English style, Kiton bought 11 items from the Duke of Windsor’s wardrobe was auctioned in 1998. MAIN EVOLUTIONS With the look of the modern lounge suit dating back to around the 1860s, we have had almost a century and a half of refinements to bring us to where we are today. While cutting and sewing have improved in that period, the most significant change has been in the weight of the cloths and the corresponding linings, canvases, padding and other unseen essentials. Even the threat of global warming cannot change the fact that to do a sensible job, tailoring fabrics require a certain weight. While some weavers have become apparently obsessed with finer and finer qualities and superlight cloths, most tailors of repute guide their clients to the established favourites of between 9oz and 13oz cloths simply because they are proven to work — they can be pressed into the required shape and relied upon to maintain that shape. The renewed interest in bespoke tailoring as a form of luxury dressing is encouraging. Having one’s clothes made by craftsmen (and a growing number of craftswomen) in exquisite fabrics is expensive, but overall it represents superb value and it has the desirable attraction that a custom-made outfit is unique to the owner. In a world that seems ever smaller and more crowded with sameness and uniformity, personal uniqueness is a very valuable commodity.

Eric Musgrave

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The first trend-setters: Edward Prince of Wales (left), Beau Brummell (centre) and George IV (right)

ITALIAN STYLES In the modern era, and certainly since the 1950s, the most significant influences on the development of

Roman tailoring is in contrast with the more easygoing, somewhat relaxed attitude of the Neapolitan tailors. Deriving its name from the Greek Nea Polis,

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Marcello Mastroianni wearing Brioni in La Dolce Vita (1960) by Fellini

Eric Musgrave

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SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

OLD TRADITIONS MEET A NEW GENERATION The next generation of bespoke tailors cut the world’s finest suits with precision and passion. The proof is to be found with these three renowned Scabal clients.

CAMPS DE LUCA, PARIS, France

Father and son work together on a pattern

Most fathers dream that their sons will follow in their footsteps. But third-generation Parisian tailor Charles de Luca didn’t receive that kind of encouragement when he initially suggested to his father, French master tailor Marc de Luca, and grandfather, the late Mario de Luca, that he might want to enter the family

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tailoring business, known as Camps de Luca. The atelier’s name is a contraction of Joseph Camps and Mario de Luca, friends and master tailors who formed a partnership in 1968 that was acquired outright two years later by the latter.

Schoichiro Kamiya at work (left) and Hiroyuki, his father who allowed him to learn tailoring in London

“Since I was a baby playing hide and seek in the atelier with my big brother Julian, I was surrounded by people who measure and cut fabric for a living,” explains 27-year-old Charles, whose tenure as a working tailor is now in its fifth year. “When I was 16, I asked my grandfather if I could quit school and come to work with him. But it wasn’t a good period [business wise] so I went to work in the restaurant business,” he says.

‘Today we are working in the same style because we need to be one spirit; you can’t have two spirits competing in one company’ Frustrated by his work as a waiter – “I was always explaining the dish but it wasn’t me creating it,” he says – Charles once again plucked up the courage to ask for lessons in tailoring. While his father hesitated, his grandfather, whose words held sway over the family, ultimately convinced his son, Marc, to take young Charles under his tutelage. “In the beginning there was conflict, mostly because I was a little bit pretentious,” recalls Charles, who has since yielded to his father’s sartorial wisdom. “Today, we are working in the same style because we need to be one spirit; you can’t have two spirits competing in one company.” Both father and son describe Camps de Luca’s ‘Parisian style’ as a mix of English and Italian. “The English part is the structure of the chest; we work a lot to define the volume on the chest, but in a much lighter way,” says Charles. “After that, we try to make the shoulders a bit more Italian. The English shoulder is very high, very strict and a little heavy whereas the Italian shoulder is very soft, so we prefer the latter.” Nevertheless, father and son took different paths to reach the same destination. “When my grandfather and father became tailors, they just did things by feeling; they

TAILOR KAMIYA, NAGOYA, JAPAN There was never any doubt in Shoichiro Kamiya’s mind that he would one day become a tailor, like his father and grandfather before him. “I grew up as the heir to this company,” says Shoichiro, the youngest tailor at Japan’s hugely-successful Tailor Kamiya, the business started by his grandfather more than seven decades ago. Nevertheless, not many sons would literally retrace the footsteps of their predecessor, the way Shoichiro did, in order to achieve his goal.

ith ready-made clothing now in prodigious supply, bespoke suit makers are sometimes regarded as a vanishing breed – holdovers from a bygone era when men had standing appointments with their personal tailors to eye the latest fabrics and be fitted for the upcoming season. Times may have changed, but some traditions never go out of style. Today, a new generation of tailors, all of whom grew up “eating bread and jackets”, as one young tailor insists, are taking up the centuries-old craft and making it their own. Like their fathers and grandfathers who practised the tailor’s art before them and have since become their teachers, the new generation of tailors is learning that the future of custom-suit making is inherently linked to the time-honoured lessons of the past.

Camps de Luca is considered one of the best French tailors in Paris

understood that to be in this work, you have to be able to see the problems with your eyes,” says Charles, who recognizes that strategy isn’t enough today. “The problem is sometimes you need some mathematics, geometry, to help you to make a nice suit.” To better understand the dynamics of suit construction, the young tailor, at the suggestion of his father, enrolled in a three-month course in pattern-making at the Academy International de Coup de Paris. “I’m learning now to take measurements from customers in three dimensions and put them into two dimensions on paper. So it’s work of theory and feelings that you have to record,” says Charles, noting how his father doesn’t always have the patience such teaching demands. “It’s quite difficult to learn with him because he always expects me to be the best, which is good,” he says. “But now he’s much more calm.” CAMPS DE LUCA FACTS: Company launched: 1968 Generation: Third Employees: 20, five of whom are tailors Suits per week: Between four and five www.camps-de-luca.fr

‘I studied on Savile Row and when I came back to Japan I adopted the patterns of Kilgour’ For example, after graduating from Tokyo’s Rikkyo University with a degree in economics–the same university where his father, master tailor Hiroyuki Kamiya, accepted his economics degree more than 40 years earlier–Shoichiro went to work for Onward Kashiyama, Japan’s largest apparel manufacturer and retailer. Coincidentally, Kashiyama is the same fashion conglomerate where Hiroyuki worked straight out of school. “Like me, my son worked at Kashiyama for three years and then he decided, like me, he wanted to be a tailor,” says Hiroyuki, adding how Shoichiro’s choice to succeed him was one of the proudest days of his life. To guarantee young Shoichiro’s success, Hiroyuki made a call to a friend at Kilgour, French & Stanbury in London, where Hiroyuki did his own apprenticeship, and inquired about a similar post for his son. Kilgour wasn’t hiring, but the Savile Row tailor suggested a similar position across the street at Gieves & Hawkes, where Shoichiro was welcomed into the family.

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SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

CAMPS DE LUCA, PARIS, France

Father and son work together on a pattern

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Schoichiro Kamiya at work (left) and Hiroyuki, his father who allowed him to learn tailoring in London

Camps de Luca is considered one of the best French tailors in Paris

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Tailor Kamiya: Store and workshop

“I studied at Gieves & Hawkes as a cutter last year,” explains Shoichiro, who says the cutters and tailors at G&H gave him a basic understanding of the mechanics of English tailoring. As one might expect from two generations studying suit making in London, the clothing at Tailor Kamiya has the same very narrow shoulder, broad chest and streamlined shape as those found in England. So it was essential that Shoichiro learn at the source. “Of course I studied on Savile Row and when I came back to Japan I adopted the patterns of Kilgour, French & Stanbury,” explains Hiroyuki, who subsequently brought one of the British tailors at KF&S to Japan to instruct his own tailoring team in the art of British style. Now learning the trade for himself, Shoichiro says there isn’t a single part of the process that hasn’t been a challenge. “Rome was not built in a day; everything is still difficult for me,” offers the young tailor, who says he’s fortunate to have a father who is also an extremely patient teacher. “My father is not such a difficult man,” he insists with a smile. Be that as it may, Shoichiro hopes to one day put his own stamp on the family business, the same way his father did when he joined the company in 1985. After

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all, it was Hiroyuki who added a made-to-measure collection called Roy Kamiya and built the nine-story building in Nagoya where both custom tailoring and retail now co-exist. Although he doesn’t expect the construction of Tailor Kamiya’s suits to ever change, Shoichiro imagines the style someday will. “Every generation has a different sense of proportion and taste,” he says before adding how it’s every student’s dream “to someday outshine his master”.

TAILOR KAMIYA FACTS: Company birth: 1937 Generation: Third Employees: 15 tailors in a staff of 30 Suits per week: Around ten bespoke suits www.t-kamiya.co.jp

Antonio and Roberto working on a suit in their workshop

LA CORUNA, SANTO DOMINGO, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Antonio Iglesias and his younger brother Roberto weren’t even born when their uncle Santiago Iglesias made the long journey from his home in Spain’s Basque country to the Dominican Republic, the Caribbean island where, in 1958, he founded his own tailor’s shop named after his beloved birthplace, La Coruna. Following the untimely death of their father in 1970, the Iglesias brothers went to live with their uncle in Santo Domingo, the island’s capital, and spent their teenage years working in the tiny shop where Santiago toiled at the same antique Singer sewing machine his own mother, a fashion designer named Carmen, had used many years before.

‘You have to love this job and do it well if the client is to get any satisfaction from the work you do’ Although Antonio, whom friends call Tonito, later earned a degree in economics and Roberto went on to study law, their uncle’s tiny tailors shop long held an unexpected

allure. It was here that the brothers came to know the island’s most prestigious political and social figures, most of whom had been having their clothing hand made at La Coruna for years. “And so, after we finished at the university, we both preferred to stay here because this was the work we had grown to truly love,” says Antonio, who initially studied the craft at his uncle’s side before later deciding to hone his tailoring skills at schools in Barcelona, Milan, Frankfurt and Paris. Later, when Roberto, who is four years younger, decided to trade in his law degree for a turn at the scissors, Antonio taught him everything he knew. “It’s not always about the money, or lack thereof,” says Antonio who, along with his brother, acquired La Coruna outright from their uncle upon his retirement two years ago. “You have to love this job and do it well if the client is to get any satisfaction from the work you do,” he says. “You can only make it as a tailor if the people, your clients, approve of you in that position.” What clients at La Coruna have come to expect, say the brothers, is a classic-fitting suit that fits like a second skin. “For us, the most important element is the initial cut,” says Antonio, noting how the quality of the finished suit is always a reflection of the skill of the cutter. La Coruna’s founder, Santiago, didn’t believe in a signature shape and neither do the Iglesias brothers. Instead they cut their suits in the image of the client – “not too full, not too tight,” says Antonio, “but always well-balanced. Aplomar (Spanish for balance) is the key,” offers the tailor, who has learned to rely on his eyes more than the numbers. Says Antonio: “The tailor who doesn’t balance the suit is not a good tailor.”

LA CORUNA FACTS: Company launched: 1958 Generation: Second Employees: 12, including Antonio and Roberto Iglesias who cut and sew all the bespoke suits Suits per week: Between ten and 12 aiglesias@codetel.net.do William Kissel

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Tailor Kamiya: Store and workshop

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TAILOR KAMIYA FACTS: Company birth: 1937 Generation: Third Employees: 15 tailors in a staff of 30 Suits per week: Around ten bespoke suits www.t-kamiya.co.jp

Antonio and Roberto working on a suit in their workshop

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LEGENDARY WORKSHOP

THE BESPOKE SUIT PROCESS For many, the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure garments may not be readily apparent, but for those who understand the process, the difference is clear. We present an exclusive guided tour of one of the world most famous workshops: Gieves & Hawkes, Savile Row.

aving a bespoke suit made is a very personal experience, not only because the garment is an investment, but also because of the relationship that is developed along the way. Patiently handcrafted from the paper pattern to the final finishing stitches, a bespoke garment is made entirely to individual requirements. Being on a street that is renowned for producing the very finest tailoring is a big responsibility but, for Gieves & Hawkes, it is all in a day’s work. Having occupied the same building since 1912 and being in business since 1771, Gieves & Hawkes are well placed, no question.

Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row

for the chance to train alongside our tailors, because they are the best in the world.” Each tailor specializes in one garment; trousers, waistcoats or jackets (known as coats in the trade). At Gieves & Hawkes, they have four Master Coat Makers and a Master Trouser Maker who between them have more than 85 years’ experience in the company’s workshop. Yet these tailors will not meet the customer or even see the garment that they make being worn. It is the cutter who consults with the customer, so it is their responsibility to provide requirements feedback to the tailors. Unique process The bespoke process begins with a consultation with a cutter, which will take around an hour for a new customer, slightly less if the client has had a previous bespoke garment made. The customer will always be seen by the same person and so will usually develop

Upon entering the bespoke workshop, it is immediately noticeable what a unique space it is, situated in the basement of No.1 Savile Row with tailors practicing a craft that has not altered in hundreds of years. Yet it is alive with the constant exchange of knowledge and experience. Gieves & Hawkes have worked very hard over the past six years to ensure that they support young apprentices, so that the craft does not pass away. Apprentices work alongside their Master Tailor every day and, perhaps surprisingly, there are more young people who wish to learn than there are spaces available. “Over the past few years, interest in tailoring has increased dramatically,” says Tailoring General Manager Andrew Goldberg “and I now receive around four to five letters per week from people from all over the world asking

The team Crafting these handmade garments is a team of 30 tailors, including five apprentices. Proving the diversity of the industry, their ages range from 1870, yet all share the same enthusiasm and passion for bespoke tailoring. Indeed, the passion has to be strong, as an apprenticeship usually takes around five years to complete. Even Andrew Gomez, a Master Coat Maker who has worked for Gieves & Hawkes for more than 35 years, told me that he is still learning every day. With new technology, comes new cloth that handles and drapes differently, so tailors must adapt how they work with them in order to achieve the perfect garment.

30 tailors and 5 apprentices work at Gieves & Hawkes – each tailor specializes in one garment 32

Bespoken

LEGENDARY WORKSHOP

Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row

30 tailors and 5 apprentices work at Gieves & Hawkes – each tailor specializes in one garment 32

Bespoken

The gourmet place

a very good relationship with them. This is important, because the cutter must understand the customer’s lifestyle in order to be able to provide the correct advice and direction on what cloth and cut to choose. Gieves & Hawkes’ Head Bespoke Cutter Peter O’Neill is retiring at the end of the year: “Many customers find it hard when their cutter moves on. A lot of my customers have been with me for years and we have become friends. They trust me to produce a garment that makes them look and feel good, and value my opinion”. Gieves & Hawkes have, however, planned for this emotional departure and Peter will be handing down his shears to two of the finest newgeneration cutters, Lee Webb and Kathryn Sargent. Lee and Kathryn both trained on Savile Row and have already accomplished much. Lee has worked with fashion designers such as Kim Jones and Henry Holland who called on Lee’s expertise within tailoring to develop their clothing collections. Equally, Kathryn served her apprenticeship at Gieves & Hawkes and is the first female senior cutter on Savile Row, being nominated for the Women of the Year Awards this year in recognition of her work, a nomination that was originally suggested by one of her customers.

As a bespoke customer, it is very exciting to be so involved in the construction process and be able to customize a product to your exact needs In the first bespoke consultation, the cutter will measure the customer, taking into account the contours of the body and various frame types, which enables them to create a pattern so perfect that it will fit like no other garment has before. A decision must then be made over the cut and style of the suit…this is where the imagination runs wild! With close to 10,000 cloths to choose from, and a pattern cut just for you, Andrew assures me that whatever you desire is possible: “ ‘No’, is not an answer that you will hear here.” Once this is complete the cutter will return to the workshop to draft a paper pattern, based upon individual measurements, and will cut the garment. This is then handed to a Master Tailor and their apprentice to assemble. The tailor is responsible for the hand rendering of the item, starting with the horsehair canvas, which provides the internal structure of the garment. These are washed, softened and hand-shaped over the knee, following the cutter’s specific fitting instructions.

Bespoken

Once the canvas is complete, the garment is loosely stitched together without any finishing details – this is known as a ‘1st Baste’, which is then ready to try on in a first fitting. Here, the customer is able to provide feedback on the suit’s look and feel. Although the 1st Baste has taken more than five hours to create, it is now ripped apart, the canvas destroyed and the pattern altered to accommodate the feedback from the fitting. A new canvas for the internal structure is reworked, and the 2 nd Baste is presented. This time-intensive process ensures that the garment will fit perfectly. As a bespoke customer, it is very exciting to be so involved in the construction process and be able to customize a product to exact needs. The 2nd Baste is again ripped down, alterations are made to both the pattern and the garment before a pocket Baste fitting is made. This time, the garment looks more like a finished product, with pockets and other details now included, and it is then refitted for a third time. Any final amendments required may now be indicated, before it the final garment is handcrafted. All finishing is also completed by hand, including edge stitching, padding of lapels, individual button holes and the application of buttons. All linings are felled by hand, linen is used to reinforce pockets and gorge, sleeves are stitched in place and shoulder pads are cut and shaped. The tailors will then ensure that the garments are finished to the highest quality level; even pressing is completed by a separate finisher, whose job is only to iron. The garment is normally ready in around 10-12 weeks, which equates to 65 man hours. The patterns are kept so that further orders can be completed more quickly, and usually only require two fittings.

Tailors’ TIps Bespoke garments are the ultimate personal expression of the gentleman who knows better. So why should his dining experience be anything less than tasteful and elegant? Here are a few suggested restaurants to make your tailoring experience the perfect fit.

New York

Baan Khanitha 36/1 Soi 23, Sukhumvit Road Watthana 10110 Thailand T. +66 2 258 4181 www.baan-khanitha.com

London Named as an ode to the skills of a seasoned craftsman, Tailor is a contemporary dining and cocktail parlor located in Soho, New York City. Like any good craftsman will do, Tailor challenges pre-conceived notions about what a dish or drink (or bespoke suit) should be, and captures the true spirit of being an original.

Gieves & Hawkes still produce around 900 bespoke suits per year, which equates to more than 3,000 metres of cloth, roughly 5½ million hand stitches and a minimum of 54,000 man hours!

Natalie Sykes and Katherine Green

at Design House Restaurant. It is an ultra-modern design-centric eatery in steel and etched glass, with furniture by Philippe Starck. Still, a relaxed atmosphere prevails with food by award winning chefs and an extensive beer and wine list. Located only 20 kilometres from Leeds and 35 from Manchester, in a region well-known for its fabrics mills, Design House Restaurant is a perfect choice for a post fitting lunch or dinner. Design House Restaurant Halifax, West Yorkshire HX3 5AX United Kingdom T. +44 1422 383242 www.designhouserestaurant.co.uk

Melbourne

Tailor 525 Broome Street New York, NY, 10013 T. +1 (212) 334-5182 United States www.tailornyc.com

Bangkok

For those who may be wondering, what is Gieves & Hawkes ‘house style’? Andrew Goldberg explains: “It is very English, with a high arm hole that creates greater movement with a moulded and shaped chest, suppression over the waist and a slight flair to the skirt of the coat.”

The garment is normally ready in around 10-12 weeks, which equates to 65 man hours

of warm wood, dinner at Baan Khanita is custom made for intimate meals with friends and family.

Baan Khanitha is the award-winning Thai restaurant and the brainchild of the elegant Khanitha Akaranitikul who once made her name as a fashion designer at her ‘Khanitha Thai Silk’ boutiques. Frequented for years by in-the-know locals, it is slowly being discovered by savvy travellers who head to nearby Soi (street) Nana, an enclave for tailors who make bespoke items, from cashmere coats to silk ties. In hues

Mayfair is the heart of London’s gastronomic culture and of course, home to Savile Row, world renowned for traditional men’s tailoring and artisans to have mastered their craft. The perfect fit then for a quiet meal in sumptuous surroundings is Artisan. Located just minutes from Savile Row, the elegant dining room is tucked away inside The Westbury — one of Mayfair’s most elegant hotels. Artisan Bond Street House 14 Clifford St, London, United Kingdom T. +44 20 7629 7755 www.westburymayfair.com

Halifax West Yorkshire is well-known among tailors as one of the regions in which the finest cloths are produced. You can not visit the region without dining

The old four-storey building was once a garment factory and the name, Seamstress, is an ode to this history. There are spools of coloured thread and sewing machines, as well as wafting fabrics hanging in the bar and first floor restaurant. The scene is casual – contemporary with a menu of smart Cantonese dishes. Food & Wine Magazine voted the Sweatshop bar one of the top seven bars of the world in 2009. Seamstress Restaurant & Sweatshop Bar 113 Lonsdale Street 3000 Melbourne Australia T. +61 3 9663 6363 www.seamstress.com.au

Kimberley Lovato

Bespoken

The gourmet place

Bespoken

New York

Baan Khanitha 36/1 Soi 23, Sukhumvit Road Watthana 10110 Thailand T. +66 2 258 4181 www.baan-khanitha.com

Gieves & Hawkes still produce around 900 bespoke suits per year, which equates to more than 3,000 metres of cloth, roughly 5½ million hand stitches and a minimum of 54,000 man hours!

Natalie Sykes and Katherine Green

Melbourne

Tailor 525 Broome Street New York, NY, 10013 T. +1 (212) 334-5182 United States www.tailornyc.com

Bangkok

The garment is normally ready in around 10-12 weeks, which equates to 65 man hours

of warm wood, dinner at Baan Khanita is custom made for intimate meals with friends and family.

Halifax West Yorkshire is well-known among tailors as one of the regions in which the finest cloths are produced. You can not visit the region without dining

Kimberley Lovato

Bespoken

THE CLASSICS

WHEN TAILORING INSPIRES CULTURE An excellent book, like a classically tailored suit, never goes out of style. Bespoken recommends a few that make the cut, for young and old alike.

century, this is a fascinating collection of curious and frequently amusing facts, from the arcane mysteries of button replacement to the remarkable influence of royalty. 120 pages, 15€

Anderson, Simon & Schuster, 2009) This is a witty and enlightening look into the traditional world of tailoring.

Henry Poole: Founders of Savile Row — The Making of a Legend (Stephen Howarth, Bene Factum Publishing Ltd, 2003) A chronicle of the evolution of Savile Row and the emergence of Henry Poole as its premier tailor, with his fascinating client roster.

Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion (Alan Flusser, It Books, 2002) This has dominated the men’s-style reference field since its release – a superb reference work, in which the author combines the role of fashion coach and fashion historian. 320 pages, 35€

159 pages 14.90€

320 pages, 12.50€

Gentleman: A Timeless Guide to Fashion (Ullmann, 2009) This is a completely revised and updated version of German author (and Bespoken contributor) Bernhard Roetzel’s work. With more than 700 illustrations, this is all there is to know about fabric, cut, patterns, colour and optimum care techniques for men’s clothing, as well as invaluable style tips. 360 pages, 35€

Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide For Men’s Wear (Roberto Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty, Fairchild Books, 1983) A step-by-step guide to classic tailoring, with wellillustrated explanations of cutting, stitching, pocketmaking, finishing a tailored jacket, trousers and vest and which materials to buy. The ideal guide for those who really want to understand how their suit is made. 245 pages, 40€

Handmade, The Timeless Character of Classic Craftsmanship (Gerben Bijpost, Tectum, 2009) This book is totally dedicated to handmade products and luxury brands which produce them. Among these notables craftsmen: Scabal, Delvaux, Santoni, Steinway, etc. This puts handmade products in a class apart, incomparable in terms of quality and superior as far as character is concerned. 224 pages, 49.95€

For children

The London Cut: Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring (James Sherwood, Marsilio, Italy 2007) The story of more than 200 years’ undisputed elegance, and the contemporary cut of a British style that still represents the pinnacle of male fashion. 256 pages, 15.50€

Bespoken

Several versions exist, but this keepsake version is our favourite. 32 pages, 65€

224 pages, 15€

For gentlemen

Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed ( Richard

flicking, combing, carding and other preparation methods as well as spinning and plying a variety of yarn styles. Knitting, crochet, weaving, and other techniques illustrate the importance of matching wool type to end use.

Sharp Suits (Eric Musgrave, Pavilion, 2009) A well-illustrated book that begins with a foreword from Richard James, before recounting the history of the suit, from Charles II adopting the Persian vest (and hence the three-piece suit) to Armani and Prada. The modern gentleman’s bible… 200 pages, 25€

The Handbook of Style: A Man’s Guide to Looking Good (Hearst, 2009) A recent publication from the famous international men’s magazine Esquire, which offers vital information on every aspect of man’s wardrobe, from suits and shirts, shoes and neckties, to watches and accessories. Useful advice for many years to come... 224 pages, 12.95€

The Englishman’s Suit (Hardy Amies, Quartet Books, 2009) This classic text, first published in 1994, offers the reader a charming and entertaining account of the suit’s development, from the 17th century to the end of the 20th. In print once again for the 21st

In Sheep’s Clothing: A Handspinner’s Guide to Wool (Nola and Jane Fournier, Interweave Press Inc, 2003) A comprehensive look at the characteristics of wool from 100 breeds of sheep, with expert advice on selecting top-quality fleeces, cleaning wool efficiently, teasing,

A House of Tailors (Patricia Riley Giff, Yearling Books, 2006) The story of a little girl who loathes working in her family’s dressmaking business but who, in trying to escape from it, discovers a wonderful talent of her own.

The Tailor’s Daughter (Janice Graham, St. Martin’s Press, 2006) A classic that reveals the world of Victorian England and tells the story of Veda Grenfell, the daughter of one of the tailors to England’s aristocracy. 400 pages. 14.90€

160 pages. 8.95€

The Emperor’s New Clothes (Hans Christian Anderson, North-South Books, 2005) The classic fairy tale about an emperor who unwittingly hires two swindlers (posing as tailors) to create a new suit for him has been entertaining readers for more than 170 years. Michael Neugebauer’s illustrations are simply superb.

The Tailor of Gloucester (Beatrix Potter, Warne, 2002) First published in 1908, this classic children’s book tells of a group of mice who helping a tailor finish his work in time for Christmas. 59 pages, 7.50€

32 pages, 5.50€

The Brave Little Tailor (The Brothers Grimm, Harry N. Abrams, 2000) The story of a tailor who kills seven flies with one blow and becomes king.

Kimberley Lovato & Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken

THE CLASSICS

WHEN TAILORING INSPIRES CULTURE An excellent book, like a classically tailored suit, never goes out of style. Bespoken recommends a few that make the cut, for young and old alike.

century, this is a fascinating collection of curious and frequently amusing facts, from the arcane mysteries of button replacement to the remarkable influence of royalty. 120 pages, 15€

Anderson, Simon & Schuster, 2009) This is a witty and enlightening look into the traditional world of tailoring.

159 pages 14.90€

320 pages, 12.50€

For children

Bespoken

Several versions exist, but this keepsake version is our favourite. 32 pages, 65€

224 pages, 15€

For gentlemen

Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed ( Richard

160 pages. 8.95€

32 pages, 5.50€

The Brave Little Tailor (The Brothers Grimm, Harry N. Abrams, 2000) The story of a tailor who kills seven flies with one blow and becomes king.

Kimberley Lovato & Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken

Spring-SUMMER 2010 TRENDS

TAILORING WITH A TWIST This season, Scabal pays tribute to the tailor’s craft. Think Savile Row, a world in which ancestral expertise blends perfectly with contemporary creativity.

The Ti-Bridge, an unprecedented timepiece. Case in titanium. Exclusive Corum manufactured CO007 in-line baguette movement with titanium bridges and three day power reserve. www.corum.ch

Appeal is a new range of Super 140’s that comes in no fewer than 67 designs and shades

Suit ‘Appeal’, ref. 751703

Spring-SUMMER 2010 TRENDS

TAILORING WITH A TWIST This season, Scabal pays tribute to the tailor’s craft. Think Savile Row, a world in which ancestral expertise blends perfectly with contemporary creativity.

The Ti-Bridge, an unprecedented timepiece. Case in titanium. Exclusive Corum manufactured CO007 in-line baguette movement with titanium bridges and three day power reserve. www.corum.ch

Appeal is a new range of Super 140’s that comes in no fewer than 67 designs and shades

Suit ‘Appeal’, ref. 751703

Looks can be deceptive. And sometimes, intentionally so. New in the Scabal collection this season is the ‘false three-button’ jacket. Thanks to its rolling lapel that covers the top button, the jacket has three buttons but appears though it only sports two.

Shoulders take on two different styles this summer – narrow and constructed, or soft and deconstructed. Scabal offers several types of interlining, giving you the choice between a sharp, tight-fitting suit and a looser, more comfortable style. Dress the way you feel.

‘False’ three button jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801254 Trousers, Cashmere Cotton, ref. 500415

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801234 Trousers, Pure Cotton (Cashmere Cotton), ref. 500437

‘False’ three button jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801254 Trousers, Cashmere Cotton, ref. 500415

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801234 Trousers, Pure Cotton (Cashmere Cotton), ref. 500437

The cut is British too. Timeless, stylish and formal but with endless opportunities for personalization and eccentricity. In other words, classic with an endearing touch of individualism. Like the nation itself.

No deception here, however – what you see is exactly what you get, namely one button. This elegant, youthful style draws the bodyline upwards, accentuating the tall, slim look.

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801253

Suit ‘Riviera’, ref. 801245

No deception here, however – what you see is exactly what you get, namely one button. This elegant, youthful style draws the bodyline upwards, accentuating the tall, slim look.

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801253

Suit ‘Riviera’, ref. 801245

Bespoken? This cloth certainly seems to be. The word ‘bespoke’ in fact comes from the verb ‘bespeak’ which means to ‘speak for something’. In London’s Savile Row, a cloth was said to “be spoken for” when it had been ordered by a customer, prior to being hand-tailored from an individual pattern.

With a choice of more than 5,000 fabrics and almost limitless options for personalization, Scabal offers you an exclusive garment that’s tailored to your body and your mind.

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801234 Trousers ‘Pure Cotton’ (Cashmere Cotton), ref. 500437

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801228 Trousers ‘Pure Linen’, ref. 800933

With a choice of more than 5,000 fabrics and almost limitless options for personalization, Scabal offers you an exclusive garment that’s tailored to your body and your mind.

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801234 Trousers ‘Pure Cotton’ (Cashmere Cotton), ref. 500437

Jacket ‘Riviera’, ref. 801228 Trousers ‘Pure Linen’, ref. 800933

New summer fabrics from the Riviera collection include 35 interpretations in pure linen, linen and wool and linen, cotton and silk.

Suit â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Rivieraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, ref. 801232

New summer fabrics from the Riviera collection include 35 interpretations in pure linen, linen and wool and linen, cotton and silk.

Suit â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Rivieraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, ref. 801232

Jackets and jeans feature strongly this year. Colourful jackets with accents in pink, orange, lavender and purple, and an extended line of jeans. Scabal has always believed that men should be as stylish at the weekend as they are at the office. Mosaic line is a classic jacketing of wool and silk with a new shine. Glossy, silky fabrics had almost disappeared but are now making a comeback. The gloss gives the fabrics a luxurious, dressy radiance, and Scabal offers them in checks, false plain and plain.

Jacket ‘Mosaic’, ref. 801197 Trousers ‘Cashmere Cotton, ref. 500428

Text: Nigel Bishop Photographs: David Hughes Design: Pierre Daras@BaseDesign

Jacket ‘Mosaic’, ref. 801197 Trousers ‘Cashmere Cotton, ref. 500428

Text: Nigel Bishop Photographs: David Hughes Design: Pierre Daras@BaseDesign

TERRA INCOGNITA

here’s no more Scottish an image than that of a castle surrounded by swirling mist, and most of Scotland’s castles ooze a colourful and turbulent history — the stuff of swashbucklers, legends and ghost stories. All the classic imagery can be found in abundance – secret passageways, spiral staircases, dungeons, haunted rooms, four-poster beds, aged oil paintings, chandeliers, suits of armour, stuffed game and roaring log fires — and the good news is that you can spend the night at many of these castles.

‘KING OF THE CAsTLE’ Six Scotland locations that might be recommended by your favourite tailor, where you simply could not arrive without your tweed hunting jacket!

Generally there are two types of castle hotels – those operated as regular hotels with rooms rented individually by the night and castles that must be rented on an exclusive basis, where your group will have sole occupancy. These are usually smaller luxury castles, with several guest bedrooms, and that perhaps offer the most personal castle experience of all.

Turnberry golf course

Bespoken

Most castles have classic outdoor activities such as golfing, deer stalking, game shooting and fly fishing right on their doorstep or a short drive away Most castles have classic outdoor activities such as golfing, deer stalking, game shooting and fly fishing right on their doorstep or a short drive away. Here are six recommendations for a made-to-measure stay in Scotland:

coast commanding views across the sea to the mountains of Arran and the Mull of Kintyre. Designed by noted Scottish architect Robert Adam, Culzean is considered one of the finest examples of a Georgian castle in the country, the Oval Staircase and Circular Saloon being standout features of his work. The castle has strong US connections, and the Scottish people donated the top floor to General Dwight D. Eisenhower after World War II, as a token of their appreciation for his role in the victory. Besides Eisenhower memorabilia and fine 18th-century furniture, there’s an extensive collection of armour and weapons dating from the 17th century. The luxury Eisenhower apartment has six double/twin bedrooms that are available as either individual accommodation or for groups of up to 12. Fine Scottish cuisine is served in the dining room and guests can relax in the drawing room, which offers dramatic sea views. Culzean is a unique choice for the discerning traveller. A few miles down the coast awaits the world-class links of Turnberry, home to the British Open Championship 2009, and polls now regularly acknowledge the ‘Ailsa’ as one of Britain’s top three courses, with regular rankings within the world’s top 20. The ninth (Bruce’s Castle) is a contender for Turnberry’s trademark hole. Adjacent to the famous lighthouse and the remains of Robert the Bruce’s Castle (Scottish King from 1306-1329), this 452-yard par-4 has no bunkers, yet is a daunting par-4, especially from the Championship tee which is perched on a rocky promontory on the edge of the sea. Culzean Castle & Country Park Maybole Ayrshire KA19 8LE T. +44(0) 8444 932149 www.culzeanexperience.org

Culzean Castle/Ayrshire

Fenton Tower/Edinburgh Region

There’s a sense of anticipation as you drive along the twisting wooded lane towards the front door of this storybook castle. In a truly spectacular setting, Culzean stands dramatically on a rocky promontory on the Ayrshire

Originally built in the mid-16th century, this ancient monument was in virtual ruins when Ian Simpson and his life-long friend John Macaskill, decided to start the Tower’s restoration in 1998. Because it’s a listed ancient

monument and a Grade A-listed building, Historic Scotland supervised the meticulous restoration, which included using materials identical to those with which it was originally built. Today, the tower combines five-star luxury and sophistication with the informality of a private home and is available for exclusive rental for 8 to 12 guests, or individually rented rooms on a nightly basis. Located just 20 miles east of Edinburgh, Fenton Tower is the castle of choice if you are interested in playing Muirfield or any of the fifteen or so other courses within a ten-mile drive. If game shooting or fishing is more your thing, then goose, partridge and pheasant shoots (when in season) for up to eight guns and river and loch fishing including salmon fishing on the famous River Tweed can also be arranged. Fenton Tower Kingston North Berwick EH39 5JH T. +44(0) 1620 890089 www.fentontower.co.uk

Ethie Castle/East Coast An ancient sandstone keep dating from the 14th Century, Ethie Castle is reputed to be Scotland’s second oldest permanently inhabited castle, and was immortalized by Sir Walter Scott as ‘Knockwinnoch’ in the novel The Antiquary. In recent years it has been meticulously restored and maintained and is currently the residence of the de Morgan family. “First and foremost, this is a family home, but we have three rooms available and can accommodate up to eight people,” says Kirtsin de Morgan. “We are well positioned for outdoor pursuits and when it comes to fly fishing for salmon and brown trout you can take you pick from the North Esk and South Esk rivers and there’s plenty of estates in the area where we can also arrange shooting trips,” she adds. Golf is also well catered for, and a 30-minute drive down the Angus coastline is the town of Carnoustie and home to the renowned Championship Course. There’s nothing to match the experience of playing one of the most famous and challenging courses in world Bespoken

TERRA INCOGNITA

‘KING OF THE CAsTLE’ Six Scotland locations that might be recommended by your favourite tailor, where you simply could not arrive without your tweed hunting jacket!

Turnberry golf course

Bespoken

Culzean Castle/Ayrshire

Fenton Tower/Edinburgh Region

Ethie Castle Inverkeilor, by Arbroath Angus DD11 5SP T. +44(0) 1241 830434 www.ethiecastle.com

Dornoch Castle Hotel/ Highlands The 15th century Dornoch Castle Hotel is situated in private and beautifully manicured gardens opposite the inspiring 12th century Dornoch Cathedral. Steeped in Scottish history with stories of witchcraft, a secret underground passageway connecting the Castle and Cathedral and a harmless ghost– an unhappy sheep-rustler by the name of Andrew McCornish who was imprisoned in the vaulted dungeons below the Tower and was reputedly seen by the Minister of Avoch towards the end of the last century. The 24 en-suite bedrooms are tastefully decorated with four deluxe rooms located in the original 15th century castle, together with the bar and reception. Dornoch Castle Hotel is still magnificent, and is perfectly situated for playing the hallowed links of Royal Dornoch, which is only a well-struck drive and a 5-iron away. Golf was first played here as far back as 1616, when the Earl of Sutherland ordered clubs and balls to take up the game that was becoming so popular further south, which makes Royal Dornoch the third-oldest golfing community in Scotland. 52

Bespoken

“After the second hole, you round a corner, pass a hedge and golfing heaven breaks loose.” These words on the club’s website are temptation enough, but once you go around the said corner, everything about this world top 20 course is right in front of you. Framed between the hills and mountains to the left and the wild North Sea is a rich tapestry of undulating fairways and plateau greens interspersed with flowering yellow gorse. Magical. Other top courses in the area worth playing include Brora, Nairn and Castle Stuart. Dornoch Castle Hotel Castle Street Dornoch Sutherland IV253SD T. +44(0) 1862 810216 www.dornochcastlehotel.com

Myres Castle/Fife This is a five-star exclusive-use castle only a 45-minute drive from Edinburgh in the Kingdom of Fife. Set within a 44-acre estate of gardens and parkland, the original Myres Castle was a Z-plan fortress dating from around 1530 and has been altered and extended over the years. The square-tower top of grey ashlar was added in 1616, providing a striking contrast to the ochre harling of the rest of the castle. There are nine guest bedrooms in all, and groups as small as 12 may rent the castle and all it contains for a minimum two-night stay. The fulltime staff includes an award-winning chef, who is equally adept at rustling up a casual supper around the solid oak table of the cosy Victorian Kitchen to something grander in the formal setting of the magnificent dining room. Guests can enjoy clay pigeon shooting, croquet on the front lawn, fishing, cooking lessons, a falconry display, or simply relax in the library with a good book and a glass of single malt. Myres is also well situated for playing the collection of top-drawer golf courses in the St Andrews area including the

Old Course, Kingsbarns and the Castle Course. Myres Castle Auchtermuchty Fife KY14 7EW T. +44(0) 1337 828350 www.myrescastle.com

Mar Hall/Glasgow Region Although it doesn’t really count as a castle, this 19 th-century Gothic Mansion (built in 1828) contains as much history and romance as any ancient fortress, and holds many fascinating stories, with references made to the likes of Mary Queen of Scots and Robert the Bruce. Looking at the breathtaking views that surround Mar Hall, it’s difficult to believe that it’s only a short drive from Glasgow city centre and the International Airport. Featuring 53 lavishly designed bedrooms (many with four-poster beds), and fine dining, five-star Mar Hall also introduces the first Aveda Concept Spa in the United Kingdom. The Spa has 12 treatment rooms, Vichy showers, hair and nail salon, swimming pool and a relaxation lounge serving healthy snacks and organic juices. Mar Hall Hotel Bishopton Renfrewshire PA7 5NW T. +44(0) 1418 129999 www.marhall.com

Andrew Marshall

FURTHER INFORMATION & USEFUL WEBSITES www.visitscotland.com www.deerstalkingscotland.co.uk www.safariinscotland.com www.flyfishing-scotland.net

golf, and the finishing hole with the clubhouse in the background is a highlight. A scene of major drama in the 99 and 07 British Opens, this 510-yard par-4 will play as a par-5 for the majority of golfers, even from the front markers. Faced with a tee shot most likely into the wind, you must negotiate the notorious Barry Burn that winds across the fairway like an agitated snake.

Scottish snapshots

Bespoken

Ethie Castle Inverkeilor, by Arbroath Angus DD11 5SP T. +44(0) 1241 830434 www.ethiecastle.com

Bespoken

Old Course, Kingsbarns and the Castle Course. Myres Castle Auchtermuchty Fife KY14 7EW T. +44(0) 1337 828350 www.myrescastle.com

Andrew Marshall

FURTHER INFORMATION & USEFUL WEBSITES www.visitscotland.com www.deerstalkingscotland.co.uk www.safariinscotland.com www.flyfishing-scotland.net

Scottish snapshots

Bespoken

GENTLEMEN’S MEETING

uring La Mostra 2009 (Venice’s annual film festival) Bespoken met distinguished US director Oliver Stone, who was presenting South Of The Border (2009), accompanied by none other than Venezuela President Hugo Chavez, the subject of Stone’s much-acclaimed (but controversial) documentary. Previously, whether his subject has been the Vietnam War, controversies surrounding former US Presidents (JFK (1991), Nixon (1995) and W. (2008)), the 11 September 2001 attacks (World Trade Center (2006)) or doping in sports (Any Given Sunday (1999)), Stone has always provided an incisive, topical perspective. Idolized by some, hated by others (in particular for his leanings towards the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia), one thing is certain – this cinematic genius knows how to get people talking. So, time to turn the tables.

Stone: BACK ON WALL STREET In Oliver Stone’s 1987 film, Machiavellian high-roller Gordon Gekko (Michael Douglas) wore a suit made from Scabal fabric. Now, more than 20 years later, the world-famous director is making the sequel, Wall Street 2: Money Never Sleeps, which is set for release in 2010. A perfect time, then, for a chat with Bespoken.

INTERVIEW

Oliver Stone

Bespoken

Bespoken : You are set to shoot the sequel to Wall Street (1987). How are the cast and story shaping up? Oliver Stone: I have my hands full. Michael Douglas is back, playing Gordon Gekko twenty three years after the events of the first film. This time, Shia LaBeouf plays Gekko’s young protege Jake Moore, and Frank Langella (Oscar nominee for Frost/Nixon (2008)) plays Moore’s mentor. We also have Josh Brolin, who plays an investment banker, Charlie Sheen returns, and Susan Sarandon plays Moore’s mother. We have talked with a lot of bankers and financial insiders, including Dr. Rubini, James Cheno and Elliot Spritzer who led the investigations against the American International Group. It’s a movie that’s very much current, because it develops on various theories such as what is the ‘bail-out’ or the ‘deep fix’ ? Or will we have to face another economic crisis? It’s a story about the big investment banks and the federal reserve board, which is a very complex situation that most people don’t know about – we tried to look behind capitalism. This is a story about Wall Street insiders, and the irony is that Gekko is an outsider at the beginning, but he manages to re-enter the system. In the movie, we want to show the financial system in New York, and how it controls the world.

Can you tell us more? The film will be called Money Never Sleeps. It’s a story all about 2008 and the financial meltdown. Gekko is back on the outside, having served his prison time. He is writing a book that condemns the easy-credit policy, but he cannot get back into the system. He is no longer a player, and it’s about how he finds a way back in. Then, on the other side, we have Josh Brolin, who plays the part of an investment banker and, during the story, we are also introduced to Gekko’s estranged daughter, played by Carey Mulligan, who takes a pivotal role in the story. How would you define your own political outlook? Probably the best terminology would be independent, but this is not a political position. Maybe I would define myself as social democrat, but not Christian democratic, that’s for sure. Perhaps a stoic democrat – stoicism is a very valuable principle, and it’s based on kindness. Would you run for the next presidential campaign? As you know, our system in the US would oblige me to find several billion dollars to run. And my record is not unblemished [laughs]. I would love to run and win and have my way, but I don’t know if I could take it with the everyday battles. When you know Chavez, as I do, you understand what it takes to have to negotiate with people all the time, and it’s hard. I’m a dramatist – I need to work more in the field of the imagination.

‘our news media are terrible, they don’t analyze well and have no real function’ Did you not discuss the possibilities of political engagement with your fellow director Michael Moore? We both agreed that America is facing tremendous challenges and, as he says at the end of his own movie Capitalism: A Love Story: “I don’t want to be cynic, I want to stay in America and fight for it.” I admire this attitude – he is like Chavez, a fighter. Me, I’m older, I have already fought a lot of battles for which I was criticized, so I don’t know if I could take it. I would like to retire and get some time to myself, there are so many books

I would love to read. For example, I didn’t really want to do Wall Street II until I got the script, and it hit me like a freight train. However, I am a little bit nervous about our country being involved in the Afghanistan war, it is going to be a disaster. In addition our news media are terrible, they don’t analyze well and have no real function. I admire politicians because they have to fight every day for their point of view while a dramatist can be always free to invent characters; I love my freedom, so it’s hard for me to imagine being in straight-jacket. In South of the Border, you present your take on how the American media have to a large extent caricatured Chavez. How have they reacted ? First of all I hope to be seen – with US TV, we have reached a ‘Babel’ stage, there is no real news, even on the best channels. The news in America is for profit, it’s superficial, it’s only entertainment. All my movies about the South have encountered problems – Comandante (2003) was censored and not shown, and my movie Salvador (1986) only received limited distribution. I hope in the future that there will be a niche for these documentaries – I don’t make these films for profits or for big US openings, but I really hope that the message that Chavez is not a bad guy reaches a lot of people. Oliver Stone’s fact and figures Full Name: William Oliver Stone Date of birth: 15 September 1946 Notable movies (as director): Platoon (1986), Wall Street (1987), Born on the Fourth of July (1989), JFK (1991), Natural Born Killers (1994) Notable movies (as writer): Midnight Express (1978), Scarface (1983), Evita (1996) Awards: Best Director Oscar: Platoon, Born on the Fourth of July Best Adapted Screenplay Oscar: Midnight Express Golden Globe Awards: Midnight Express, Platoon, Born on the Fourth of July, JFK

Federico Grandesso & Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

GENTLEMEN’S MEETING

INTERVIEW

Oliver Stone

Bespoken

Federico Grandesso & Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

THE BESPOKE COACH

DRESSY AND RELAXED: JACKET REQUIRED The suit has reigned supreme in menswear for quite some time, but the long-awaited comeback of the jacket can be seen everywhere.

The jacket, on the other hand, has two ancestors – the Norfolk jacket, which was designed for shooting in Scotland and the waisted riding coat. 56

Bespoken

Summer jackets by Scabal

The jacket is usually worn with a dress shirt but, since the 1920s, knitted shirts in the polo style or turtle neck sweaters are seen as natural companions Jacket or suit? While the suit has a strong egalitarian air, the jacket always has an aristocratic touch. The reason is because the office worker was always required to wear formal dress, while the gentleman who was not a slave to any kind of work could afford to don a more comfortable garment. Thus, jackets are indispensable for any gentleman’s wardrobe – the fact that no trousers are tied to the jacket is not a drawback but rather a great advantage. The suit is a fixed ensemble, while the jacket is like a single person who can turn up in different company on every occasion.

It must be stressed that jackets are always casual wear – in business, jackets are not a replacement for the suit if the suit is customary, but if these are are not worn in a profession, then jackets may be chosen. For formal occasions, jackets are not normally worn either, but they are perfect for when a suit is too much and a blazer is too flashy. With a jacket, a gentleman is always well-dressed but relaxed. Even for the evening, a jacket may be just right if a tie and black shoes are worn as well. Of course, it won’t replace a dinner suit, but for occasions such as gallery openings, drinks in a bar or dinner in a restaurant, it is just right. Styles The number of fabrics that may be used to tailor a jacket appears limitless, so it helps to define the most important styles. The most traditional is the classic tweed – it is never made with leather patches on the elbows, which must be earned by years of wear. For this jacket, rough and heavy cloths are the traditional choice, such as the so-called thornproofs. Checks of all sizes are the typical pattern, but smaller variations such as herringbone

or dog’s tooth are also classics, and not forgetting the melange of lovat. The weight may become a problem indoors, however, because tweeds were designed to be worn outside in autumn and winter, or in cold houses. Thankfully, lighter versions with a similar appearance are available – the tweed jacket is traditionally cut with two side vents, a three-button front and pocket flaps. A ticket pocket is optional. Closely related to the tweed jacket is the hacking style, which is the riding coat’s direct descendant and is cut skirty with a high waist, long centre vent and slanted pockets. It is made from checked tweed, but also with more equestrian fabrics such as whipcords or twills.

While the suit has a strong egalitarian air, the jacket always has an aristocratic touch The American sports coat was immortalized by George Peppard in the film Breakfast At Tiffany’s (1961). Its grey herringbone pattern was more urban than English checks – other typical details of the style include the half-lined inside, patch pockets and soft-shouldered construction. It is as American as the cotton chino and button-down shirts, and is more relaxed than the English sport coat – less aristocratic, but just as timeless. The jacket is also perfect for summer, too, if the cloth is light enough – the traditional choice is Irish linen, which is fairly heavy but creases less. Other typical summer jacketings are mixtures

of wool, silk and cashmere or linen, silk and wool or pure cashmere. Highly twisted wool is also a good choice for everyday wear on hot days, and some tailors will make a summer jacket without lining. How to match it? Trousers are chosen according to the jacket’s fabric, the season and the occasion. The most formal match is the grey wool trouser. Flannel, typically, goes best with heavier jacketings – it shouldn’t be too light, however, to prevent the trousers from going baggy at the knees – grey cavalry twill is a better choice in this respect. Less formal cloths that go well with thicker jackets are corduroy, cotton twill and moleskin. Summer jackets are paired with light worsted or gabardine trousers in various colours from traditional grey to crazy pinks, light blues or lobster for resort wear. Linen jackets in strong solid colours, with or without a windowpane check, look great with cotton trousers in loud tones such as tomato red, emerald green or bright yellow. The jacket is usually worn with a dress shirt but, since the 1920s, knitted shirts in the polo style or turtle neck sweaters are seen as natural companions. Shortsleeved polo shirts are fine in summer, although long sleeves are compulsory with any other style of shirt. In the autumn, a rugby shirt goes well with the jacket for casual wear. T-shirts are no match for the jacket, at least in a traditional context, because a collar lends a minimum amount of formality to a shirt and also prevents the jacket from having direct contact with the skin. A simple white T-shirt might work with a pair of chinos in boat shoes and a light, unlined jacket, as were worn by college boys in the 1950s. A gentleman, however, will always prefer a shirt even in a very casual context, although in the US

Origins Whether you call it the “odd jacket”, as the Americans do, or sport coat or simply jacket, it is always a garment without a matching pair of trousers. Don’t confuse it with the blazer, which usually comes in navy or other solid colours and has brass buttons. A look at the blazer’s origins demonstrates why it is not a jacket as its forefather, the naval uniform, was worn with matching trousers. The difference also lies in the fabric, because the jacket was initially made in tweed. And, last but not least, the blazer was originally designed as a double-breasted garment, while the jacket is usually cut singlebreasted. Single-breasted blazers are rooted in 19 th-century sports clubs – they come in various colours as well as stripes, which shows their relationship to school uniforms.

In the process of the two styles being mingled. the Norfolk’s four- or fivebutton front, its belt and patch pockets have disappeared, while the fitted waist and long skirts of the riding coat jacket have transformed into a more relaxed outline. The jacket became very popular in the 1920s, perfect for the more relaxed lifestyle of just after the war, when social barriers were softened and men threw out the stiff collars and starched-shirt fronts of the pre-war era. The jacket was particularly popular with students and teachers, and this close association of the garment with scholarship is still one of its bestknown characteristics.

t seems that men have rediscovered the advantages of a garment that is dressy and relaxed, classy and casual, ageless and elegant. In addition, the jacket is made to suit occasions that require more than casual clothes and less formality than the suit offers. The jacket is what the Americans describe as ‘semi-dress’, which is exactly what men today want, both outside and inside the office. Yet there is one issue that still keeps some men away from the jacket – it is only ‘half a suit’ and therefore requires more decision-making when an outfit is put together. Which trousers go best? Is a tie required? Can I wear the jacket with a sweater? What type of fabric is best? Should I wear it for business? Follow the guide…

Classy and relaxed

even well-dressed men did experiment with T-shirts as early as the 1940s. A button-down collar would go well, a look inspired by the Ivy League style. As much as the jacket is a gentleman’s wardrobe classic, it has changed over the decades. The influence of the soft, Italian tailoring style has affected the jacket as much as it has the suit – jackets have become softer, less structured and, at the same time, slimmer. No longer do we have the old fitted look of the English-tailoring tradition but, rather, the naturalshouldered shape of Italian origin, with jackets cut shorter to create the impression of longer legs. Of course, fashions will change sooner or later but the current formula for the jacket is so flattering and comfortable to wear that, frankly, it is hard to imagine what will be altered.

Bernhard Roetzel Bespoken

THE BESPOKE COACH

DRESSY AND RELAXED: JACKET REQUIRED The suit has reigned supreme in menswear for quite some time, but the long-awaited comeback of the jacket can be seen everywhere.

The jacket, on the other hand, has two ancestors – the Norfolk jacket, which was designed for shooting in Scotland and the waisted riding coat. 56

Bespoken

Summer jackets by Scabal

Classy and relaxed

Bernhard Roetzel Bespoken

IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE The creation of a made-to-measure garment involves taking many variables into account. To organize these elements of ‘personalization’, Scabal has created an aesthetic and practical kit.

Scabal Kit

o less than nine months’ development has gone into the design and creation of Scabal’s Kit. Made entirely by hand in French workshops, this box of delights is the perfect support package for anyone selling customized clothes. We talk to Marketing and Sales Assistant Celine Van Cauwelaert, who has been responsible for the project.

more practical and more luxurious. The quality of its finish and design make it a real ‘made-to-measure motif’ that’s immediately recognizable by our clients in their outlets. It is an original creation, which is at the same time very practical. For example, the linings, felt fabrics and buttons are organized in such a way as to make it simple and easy to select each element individually, position it on the selected fabric and thus to concretely visualise how the made-tomeasure suit will look.

POINT OF VIEW

‘It is an original creation, Which is at the same time very practical’

Bespoken : What are the reasons behind the ‘Scabal Kit’? Celine Van Cauwelaert: One of the main reasons was that we wanted to modernize our measurements tool, to make it both

Jérôme Stéfanski

Scabal’s Tailoring Kit Content: — Tape-measure with leather crotch hook — Pin cushion with adjustable leather strap — Linings — Buttons — Felt fabrics — Model book — Measurements table — Price list — Order forms — ‘How to take measurements’ guide — Post-Its — Pencil (Scissors and chalk not included) Dimensions: — 47cm x 36cm x 28cm

Bespoken

IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

Scabal Kit

POINT OF VIEW

‘It is an original creation, Which is at the same time very practical’

Bespoken : What are the reasons behind the ‘Scabal Kit’? Celine Van Cauwelaert: One of the main reasons was that we wanted to modernize our measurements tool, to make it both

Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken

PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

FRESH NEWS

With more than 100 years of charter experience between them, Camper & Nicholsons International’s charter agents will provide you with an exceptional and luxurious vacation on your ideal yacht; whether you are looking for fine cuisine, family fun, a relaxing time, extreme adventures or a unique cultural experience

As ever, the Scabal scene is buzzing. Bespoken offers a selection of the most exciting events… CELEBRATING DALI

style (cotton and lycra) is available in six colours: beige, caramel, mid brown, brown, chocolate, khaki and grey. Each pair of jeans sports a brand, on the right back pocket, of a blue pinstripe fabric from Scabal’s ‘Flannel’ collection, as well as Scabal’s logo. www.scabal.com

As we announced in our previous edition, Scabal launched an international exhibition dedicated to legendary artist Salvador Dali, in collaboration with the bespoke tailoring students of the London College of Fashion. The expo’s theme was the 12 works that Scabal commissioned Dali to produce in 1971, which offered his vision of how the 21st-century man might dress. The exhibition took place during the second half of 2009, a year that has marked the 20 th anniversary of Dali’s death. Renowned cities worldwide played host to the event, including Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Barcelona, Salzburg, Berlin, Bucharest and Tokyo. dali.scabal.com

jeans by Scabal

BY SCABAL FOR BAUNAT Baunat is a brand that offers diamond jewellery of exceptional quality, for sale uniquely on the internet. Belgium’s talented designers and skilled artisans create unique and timeless pieces, and hand-craft every piece of jewellery from the finest materials. For Baunat, Scabal has created an exclusive collection of 50 ties made from our ‘Diamond Chip’ fabric, which contains real fragments of the precious stones! The ties will be made available to Baunat’s clients, to say ‘Thank You’ for their custom.

aristocracy and businessmen worldwide. By limiting production to 20 suits per day, Syed ensures that each garment receives the same level of rigorous attention. And of course, the finest fabrics are used, many of which are supplied by Scabal. www.syedbawkher.com

Scabal makes a wish

In 2009, Scabal did not send its traditional New Year’s cards, but rather emails to save on printing costs. As a result, the money saved has been donated to the Make-A-Wish Foundation. A generous way to start the New Year… www.wish.org

Cheers!

onboard therapy

www.baunat.com

Pretty man

Today, more and more men wear a smart jacket with jeans. This trend has not escaped Scabal’s attention, hence the creation of our own brand of jeans. A slim-look, five pocket model, available in two styles – the first, made of jeans cloth (cotton, cashmere and lycra) is available in blue, grey, black, while ‘cotton rib’ 60

Bespoken

Renowned US actor Richard Gere was recently in Chennai, India, and didn’t forget to pay a visit to his favourite tailor, Syed Bawkher. Offering fine tailoring for more than 90 years, Syed Bawkher & Co. has catered for the sartorial needs of

Scabal’s latest ‘decopack’ for spring and summer is really fresh and original. And its purpose? To herald the return of elbow patches on jackets in an original and stylish fashion. Our ‘winesleeves’ will bring pleasure during beautiful summer days, spent enjoying aperitifs with friends. www.scabal.com

www.camperandnicholsons.com

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Sale & Purchase I New Construction I Yacht Charter I Charter Marketing I Yacht Management I Crew Placement Jérôme Stéfanski

PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

FRESH NEWS

As ever, the Scabal scene is buzzing. Bespoken offers a selection of the most exciting events… CELEBRATING DALI

jeans by Scabal

Scabal makes a wish

Cheers!

onboard therapy

www.baunat.com

Pretty man

Bespoken

www.camperandnicholsons.com

London +44 (0)20 7009 1950

New York +1 212 829 5652

Antibes +33 (0)4 92 912 912

Palma de Mallorca +34 971 40 33 11

Newport +1 401 619 00 75

Monaco +377 9797 7700

Puerto Portals +34 971 67 92 47

Palm Beach +1 561 655 2121

Geneva +41 22 347 27 08

Fort Lauderdale +1 954 524 4250

Miami +1 305 604 9191

Sale & Purchase I New Construction I Yacht Charter I Charter Marketing I Yacht Management I Crew Placement Jérôme Stéfanski

AUTUMN-WINTER 2010/2011 trends

the NEW MODEL: MORE COLOUR, MORE CASUAL It’s not a seismic shift, but there’s a distinct move towards casual wear in Scabal’s Winter Collection.

s the 2010 Winter Collection shows, Scabal is expanding its men’s casual-wear business. Five of the eight new winter fabrics are for jackets and trousers, while in finished clothing there’s an exciting new line of ‘soft jackets’ in addition to cardigans and jumpers. New way of wearing a jacket “Without doubt the big news in our winter collection is the new soft jacket line” says Olivier Vander Slock, Scabal’s Sales & Collection Manager. “The garment gives you a soft, natural fit – there’s no lining, no interlining and no shoulder padding. It feels like you’re wearing a shirt.” Exclusive and personalized “Our soft jacket will be presented as a false three-button with three patch-pockets initially. We’ve kept the Scabal values: although the look is casual, it’s very elegant with an exclusive feel through personalization. “This means that the buyer can choose his own individual fabric for details, such as nice suiting cloth on the under-collar or elbow patches. With Scabal you can always choose – it’s not just made-to-measure, it’s also about personalization.” With jackets making a strong comeback, trousers are an important part of the new Scabal winter lineup. The collection includes classical models, cashmere-denim jeans in a five-pocket style, corduroys and winter cottons that go beautifully with soft jackets and knitwear. Green winter Colours next autumn will be just a shade brighter and greens are making a 62

Bespoken

comeback. The Scabal collection features four colour themes: beige-brown and purple, blue with earl grey, green shades, and beige-cream with dark red. The trend to a more casual style stands out in Scabal’s fabric collection too. Three new jacketing lines define the relaxed, elegant look with colourful designs: Finest Jacketings with a wide range of timeless classics (herring bones, plains, hopsacks and checks) in Super 120’s and cashmere; the Colorado cotton line with a leisure, sporty look; and Gallery, a fancy jacketing collection in check designs. Deft mix of checks With 34 articles and a large mix of qualities from pure wool to Super 120’s with cashmere, Gallery combines colourful choice with casual elegance. Its range of checks stretches from tiny Vichy designs in shades of lilac-brown and red-beige to glen checks and bold tartans in brown and blue. Three new suiting lines are presented. The more structured and livelier ground weaves of St. James are expressed as fancy checks and elegant stripes in a 58-piece new collection of the popular 320g pure wool, Made in England. Soft flannel Flannel and Saxony offers five different qualities of soft winter flannel, from a light 290g Super 130’s through to a heavier 360g with a very woollen, slightly rough Saxony look. Lastly, Noble House with a Super 150’s and 10 per cent silk twill weaved in England, creating a most luxurious feel and slightly shiny appearance, and a 100 per cent Super 150’s quality with a satin weave and fine, sophisticated stripes.

Scabal’s next winter moodboard

Corduroy comfort In trousers, the new winter Scabal collection presents Centurion – a wool/ polyester cloth made in England offering a heavy 430g twill line and a classic 320g plain weave – and Corduroy. The Corduroy line offers four qualities, starting with an ultra light and velvety soft 300g fine-rib cotton in both classic and fancy shades. The second line aims for total comfort – with 2 per cent Lycra added to 390g superfine cotton giving a slight stretch – and is available in deep, rich colours such as plum and Bordeaux. The line is completed by a wider-ribbed 380g cotton quality and a very heavy 500g cloth with wide rib in classical shades.

More adrenaline. Less fuel. The luxurious new XF Diesel S powers from 0-100 in 6.4 seconds and delivers an astonishing 6,8l/100 km. Jaguar’s 3.0 Litre sequential twin-turbo engine and acclaimed 6-speed ZF automatic transmission set new standards for power and efficiency, emitting just 179g/km of CO 2 . Add in the XF’s outstanding dynamics, and there’s a new leader in the race to be the best performance diesel in the world.

“Our cloth designs bring out more colour than last year – brighter blues, reds from Bordeaux to berry, a comeback for green, and a wider palette of colours in our checks,” says Nora Kraëmer, assistant to Scabal’s chief fabrics designer, Michael Day. Nigel Bishop

J A G U A R. B E

6,8 l/100 km. CO : 179 g/km. 0-100 km/u : 6,4 sec.

Average consumption Jaguar XF Diesel S : 2 Environmental information (RD 19/03/04) : www.jaguar.be. Model shown features optional equipment. Give way to safety.

AUTUMN-WINTER 2010/2011 trends

the NEW MODEL: MORE COLOUR, MORE CASUAL It’s not a seismic shift, but there’s a distinct move towards casual wear in Scabal’s Winter Collection.

Bespoken

Scabal’s next winter moodboard

J A G U A R. B E

6,8 l/100 km. CO : 179 g/km. 0-100 km/u : 6,4 sec.

Average consumption Jaguar XF Diesel S : 2 Environmental information (RD 19/03/04) : www.jaguar.be. Model shown features optional equipment. Give way to safety.

SCABAL WORLDWIDE viSit SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At 12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London, pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com or tHe SCABAL CornerS in Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, 61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, scabal.printemps@scabal.com KAdeWe, 1St fLoor, tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin, pHone +49-30-219 18 530, ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.de OBERPOLLINGER, NEUHAUSER STRASSE 18, 80331 Munich, GERMANY phone +49-89-290 240 40, dagmar.dueh@scabal.de

CLOTH

GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES

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Scabal Autumn – Winter 2010/2011

NEXT ISSUE: AUGUST 2010

IT’S ALL DONE WITH MIRRORS… In the autumn-winter 2010-2011 issue of bespoken, scabal gives you the chance to discover its new creations and welcomes you to a magical appartment, where mirrors and light play a mysterious game. Reserve your copy, wHich will be delivered to your home, at www.bespoken.com 64

Bespoken

The pleasure of mechanics

this sixth edition of bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of:

HightStreet Bobsleigh

Official Partner

w w w. l a m o nt re.ch

Bespoken

SPRING-SUMMER 2010 TRENDS

THE WORLD OF TAILORING

CONFESSION The ‘slow suit’ world FROM SHEEP TO SHOP Treasure Box GENTLEMEN’S MEETING Oliver Stone Spring – Summer 2010 6th Edition

SPR I NG – SU M M E R 2 0 10 www.bespoken.com

Request your next copy of Scabal’s magazine Bespoken at Bespoken.com

A SCABAL init iati ve to promote A taIlor -made lifesty le