BESPOKEN 7

autumn-WINTER 2010-2011 TRENDS

‘MADE BY YOU’

Interviews Jimmy Wales Ewan Mc Gregor

THE BESPOKE COACH Make the right choice FROM SHEEP TO SHOP Constant innovation Autumn ­– Winter 2010-2011 7th Edition

A SCABAL i n itiati ve to promote A taIlor -made lifesty le

www.lamontre.ch

Official Partner

M o nt r e S k el et o n

We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact Jérôme Stéfanski, jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher.

The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors.

Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages.

Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor: Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher: Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator: Kristel Geets Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design: BaseDESIGN Writers: Nigel Bishop Alan Cannon-Jones Federico Grandesso William Kissel David Manoukian Colin Moors Eric Musgrave Stephen Papandropoulos Emma Portier Davis Jérôme Stéfanski Proofreading: ReadRight.be James Drew Colin Moors

Editorial COMMENT

declare your independence

H

istory is a great indicator of how people or ideas were represented in their own time. Take, for example, style icons of the past such as Cary Grant and the Duke of Windsor, or of the present such as Charles, Prince of Wales. The very personal style that each had (and has) is striking. Today, one’s image is open to a much larger audience and, as we have described in previous editions, the sartorial expression of one’s personality is now widely achievable. The idea of being your own designer is central to Scabal’s new madeto-measure concept, ‘Made By You’. Of course, we rely on our staff and retail partners and tailors to act as guides and to advise in the process of creating the clothing that epitomizes your personality. We place great importance on the continued communication between Scabal and its distribution network, and contributors such as the well-known fashion author Eric Musgrave are invaluable, without being dictatorial.

After having taken a beating during the financial crisis, the luxury industry is making strident efforts to re-define what ‘luxury’ means. There is much talk of ‘genuine’ products and ‘authentic’ brands – well, customization has always represented the ultimate in luxury and authenticity to Scabal, and product focus has always been at the centre of our strategy. Therefore, we welcome this new interpretation, as it will help us to achieve our company's objectives in a socially responsible fashion.

We hope once more to provide inspiring, creative input for your individual lifestyle.

Happy reading, Gregor & Peter Thissen

Photographers: William Brawley Jean-François Carly Hélène Hody Stephen Papandropoulos Filip Vanzieleghem

Cover Credit: Scabal

© Scabal

Illustrator: Jean-Baptiste Biche Hormazad Narielwalla

Scabal Chairman Peter Thissen and his son, Scabal Group CEO Gregor Thissen

SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B-1000 Brussels Belgium Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55 www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback?

Let us know at www.bespoken.com Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper

2

I

Bespoken

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com

MASERATI QUATTROPORTE SPORT GT S. DRESS TO IMPRESS.

THE ROAD TO EXCELLENCE KNOWS NO LIMITS. The elegance of the new Maserati Quattroporte Sport GT S 4.7 reveals an extraordinary heart: the V8 440 HP engine. The search for perfection now reaches a new apex with the new gearbox software and with aesthetic innovations applied to each tiny detail. The sports set-up and the sound of the engine make this luxury sedan stand out from the crowd. Enjoy the adrenalin of a true grand tourer and the highest levels of reliability without compromising on the style and driving comfort of a flagship automobile.

Please contact your local Maserati Dealer for a Testdrive. A Dealer locator is available at www.maserati.com CONSUMPTION COMBINED CYCLE: 15,7 L/100 KM

CO2 EMISSIONS: 365 G/KM

FOR MORE INFORMATION WWW.MASERATI.COM

02 06 08 10 12 14 18 30 35 38 4

I

editorial comment

Declare your independence CONTRIBUTORS

Ask the experts confession

True luxury TEMPTATIONS

Not just a question of technology tailor’s dictionary

From P to R

from sheep to shop

Constant innovation autumn-winter 2010-2011 trends

Private tailoring stylish accesSories

Winter reflections IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

Own your look self expression

Jimmy Wales: the ‘Made By You’ encyclopedia

Bespoken

40 44 48 50 54 56 58 60 64

made-to-order ONLY

Extra touches THE BESPOKE COACH

Make the right choice THE GOURMET PLACE

Cooked by gentlemen IN PEOPLE WE TRUST

Market-led

GentlEmen's meeting

The man behind ‘The Ghost’ SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Born to be a tailor NEWS

Success stories SPRING-SUMMER 2011 TRENDS

A look on the bright side Scabal worldwide

• www.montblanc.com

timewriter.

In 1821 Nicolas Rieussec invented the first chronograph, a revolutionary device with two rotating discs beneath an index with an ink-filled tip that left a mark on the dials to indicate the time. Taking the essence of his invention, Montblanc has created a time-keeping masterpiece incorporating the rotating disc technique: the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec.

Monopusher chronograph, self-winding manufacture movement.

13 3/4 lines, large screw-balance of 9.7 mm, 4 Hz. Off-centre hour, minute and date display.

Second time-zone with day-night display. 30 min. and 60 sec. counters with rotating discs fixed on the counter bridge. Column wheel control, vertical disc clutch running virtually friction-free.

Special toothing for more efficient power transmission. Twin barrels enabling a 72-hour power reserve. Sapphire glass back, 43 mm stainless steel case, alligator-skin strap. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

CoNTriBUTorS

aSK tHE ExPERtS

eriC mUSGrAve Eric Musgrave has been writing about fashion for nearly 30 years and is the author of the recently published Sharp Suits, a 200-page celebration of men’s tailoring. an award-winning editor-in-chief while at Drapers, the UK’s top fashion business weekly, he has also held senior positions at Men’s Wear, Fashion Weekly, International Textiles (based in amsterdam) and Sportswear International (based in Milan), as well as writing for numerous other publications, including Financial Times, The Observer and Vogue. He was the launch editor of one of the first men’s style titles, For Him Magazine (now FHM) in 1985-86. as well as writing about the industry, he is also a consultant to the fashion business.

Eric got his first proper suit aged 13 and currently has 11 suits hanging in his wardrobe. in this edition, he offers useful advice on choosing the perfect made-to-measure suit.

federiCo GrAndeSSo Federico Grandesso first covered the Venice Film Festival in 1992. in 2003, he had the chance to cover the Milan Fashion Week and the rome Film Festival and to interview famous fashion designers. Becoming very interested in the relationship between cinema and fashion, he also started attending the Cannes Film Festival and Paris Fashion Week. during his period in italy, he was press officer for an italian designer and had the chance to organize various fashion shows and events during the Milan Fashion Week. in this edition, he talks to Scottish actor Ewan McGregor.

6

I

Bespoken

WiLLiAm KiSSeL William Kissel is a men’s fashion editor who has been writing about the worldwide luxury menswear industry for more than three decades. a three-time recipient of both the Men’s Fashion association’s aldo award and the prestigious atrium award for outstanding reporting on the american garment industry, Kissel’s work has appeared in more than two dozen national magazines and daily newspapers across the United States. For the past 13 years, he has served as the fashion editor for the Robb Report, the US magazine devoted to luxury lifestyles. at the same time, for nearly 20 years, Kissel has been the editor-at-large for MR, an american trade magazine for the menswear industry.

ALAn CAnnon-JoneS alan Cannon Jones is a course director and principal lecturer in the graduate school at the london College of Fashion and works as a consultant for tailoring, menswear and fashion design technology in the industry. He has had more than 20 years’ experience working in the tailoring industry for a number of companies, including Chester Barrie, before taking up a position at the london College of Fashion. He is also a regular contributor to conferences on the subjects of menswear, bespoke tailoring and mass customization.

He is the author of Bespoken’s muchrespected ‘Tailor’s dictionary’.

niGeL BiSHop For a large part of his career, Nigel Bishop worked in advertising in london, New York and Paris.

He has been a freelance writer for the past 15 years, working with multinational companies in B-to-B communications. Since 2006, Nigel has collaborated with Scabal’s Fabrics design department and, in this edition, he identifys the main fabric and made-to-measure suit trends to watch out for in the months to come.

Anne-KAtrin SUrA anne-Katrin Sura is a German writer who lives in Frankfurt. Her work encompasses the best recipes that international cuisine has to offer, with which she loves to entertain her friends and family. Besides being an excellent host, she also teaches the fine art of cooking to young and old. in 2007, she published the bestseller A Men’s Cookbook-Adventure in the Kitchen. For this edition for this edition, she teaches gentlemen how to cook in syle, beginning with tournedos polenta and salsa verde.

dAvid mAnoUKiAn david Manoukian is the 35-yearold founder of the very select social network The-Sphere.com. The clothing brand that bears his name, Manoukian, was founded by his father in 1970. after gaining a diploma in Business administration at Paris’s institut Supérieur de Gestion in 1997, he joined PricewaterhouseCoopers, before returning to the family business to promote alain Manoukian’s international development. in 2005, he was instrumental in the brand’s sale to american group BCBG Max azria.

For Bespoken, david Manoukian delivers a ‘Confession’...

StepHen pAndropoULoS Photographer Stephen Papandropoulos works predominantly on location for a variety of clients.

His images pinpoint individual moments within the ordinary and his work has received acclaim in various international photography competitions. in this edition, he treats us to his vision of Scabal’s young and dynamic marketing department.

Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

THE HEART OF COGNAC

Taste our know-how wisely.

CONFESSION

TRUE LUXURY For Bespoken, French-Belgian-Armenian businessman David Manoukian, who recently launched the luxury social network The-Sphere.com, offers his personal vision.

I

love luxury. But what I particularly adore, is the rare luxury that is time or, more accurately, time that can be enjoyed luxuriously.

I love those timeless moments, such as when I play with my children and I can see them growing up, when I take a walk with my dogs on my property, when I enjoy a good meal surrounded by loved ones and laughter… To take time to live, from time to time, this is the real luxury. And, on the other hand, real luxury, for me, is ‘ultraluxury’ – it is not just about creating top-of-the-range products, there are many established specialists in

that field. Indeed, my family has traditionally always worked in topof-the-range fashion (my grandfather was a renowned shoemaker, my father founded an acclaimed brand of readyto-wear clothes, and my mother was a famous designer) but, like Scabal, we have always been motivated first by our passion for work that is well done.

This is why I have a special admiration for the luxury-watch industry – these are real jewels, produced by the meticulous work of the world’s greatest craftsmen and designers. In my life, as in my businesses (my luxury social network website and real estate), quality will always take precedence over quantity.

And, to achieve this goal, I always strive to ensure that my family is an integral part of my company – we all work together, each adds his or her competences, his or her cornerstone, and we complement each other perfectly. I work in tandem with my father in managing the group, and my wife is my favourite consultant.

My children are still young, but I am impatient for them to take part in the adventure!

But my favourite luxuries? Those that are free in this life…

David Manoukian

© The Sphere

About The-Sphere.com The-Sphere.com is a new social network that connects people who live in the capitals “that count”, such as Paris, New York, London, Geneva and Hong Kong. Each new member is encouraged to bring “added value” from his or her own experiences of life and work, and are normally people working in “exciting” professions, such as finance, art, the media and fashion. The “added-value” is an essential criterion for membership, and it is for this reason that a committee decides who will stay and who will go. Actress Eva Longoria, basketball player Tony Parker and footballer Thierry Henry are all members of this ‘in vogue’ network… www.the-sphere.com The-Sphere.com, a luxury social network with a 2.000$ annual fee

8

I

Bespoken

A BREAKTHROUGH TO THE 21ST CENTURY

TURBINE A1047/1

PARTNER OF

www.perrelet.com

TEMPTATIONS

Not just a question of technology

Pick up your personalized phone!

New to the GSM industry, Gresso is giving you the opportunity to create your own mobile phone. A special titanium-alloy case with high-tech ceramic covering, various types of leather decoration and keyboard design, be it flat or made from polished steel, plus the engraving of your initials or an inscription on the inside of the device makes the Gresso an exceptional phone to mirror your own personality. Your personalized phone can be designed in Gresso’s interactive online boutique or in authorized dealers’ stores, before being made in Switzerland and delivered to you within 14 days.

Price from 2,200€ www.gresso.com

Drive in style on the fairway Launched in 2005, the Garia brand is en route to achieving its stated aim of becoming “the best golf car in the world”. Each car is made in Finland, at the Valmet Automotive Factory, where the Porsche Boxter and Porsche Cayman are also constructed.

To achieve their goal, the brand’s creators have called upon Dr. Heinrich Petra, renowned for his relaunch of the famous Mini for BMW. The result is more than surprising – an audacious, dazzling, state-of-the-art creation, the recently launched limited edition Soleil de Minuit, is the world’s most expensive golf car and features a carbon roof, is custom-painted and comes with two hand-stitched luxury seats, alcantara roof lining and numerous other hand-finished details.

It’s your very own unique luxury golf car.

Soleil de Minuit Golf Car: 39,000€ www.garia.com

10

I

Bespoken

When your iPhone becomes a valet iVIP is the first premium lifestyle application for the iPhone. Following a check on the reserves available in your bank account, iVIP offers access to a concierge service that provides you with absolutely anything your heart desires. There are three service levels available – Red (a functional demonstration), Blue (open to all) and Black (a minimum of $1 million must be in your account). The services and privileges available range from a bodyguard to trips to private islands – live the dream! iVIP Black: 750€ www.ivipworld.com

Luxury Asian touch Chinese luxury computer manufacturer Eazo combines western high-tech with the purest traditions of imperial China, with each computer personalized according to customers’ wishes. The casing of these digital jewels is constructed in rosewood combined with a magnesium-aluminium alloy and, for decoration, hand-painted Chinese symbols provide the finishing touch – just right for working in style.

From 10,000€ www.eazo.com

The sound of Perfection The Gramophone is an exclusive hi-fi speaker, hand-crafted in Sweden and developed by three of the companies behind Swedish super sports car manufacturer Koenigsegg – Ergonomidesign, Eker Design and Carbocomp, commissioned by Aesthesis. Standing 1.2 metres high and made from carbon fibre and stainless steel, this speaker is both impressive and original.

The attention to detail is immaculate, from the sound quality down to each and every component.

Only one hundred pairs of ‘The Gramophone’ speakers will be produced – order immediately.

Aesthesis: The Gramophone 60,000€ www.aesthesis.se Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

I

11

Tailor’s Dictionary

 From P to R Alan Cannon-Jones, principal lecturer at London College of Fashion and bespoke design specialist, continues with his explanation of the essential terms you need to talk to your tailor.

P

Pin Tuck A small sewn-in pleat often seen on the cuffs of Scottish tunics.

Piping

Pad

A form of wadding, usually felt, that’s used inside the jacket to provide shape or improve the fit of the garment.

A strip of material cut on the bias, applied folded, normally to the edges of a garment.

Pitch The balanced insertion of the sleeve into the garment controlled by balance marks in the scye (armhole area).

Placket An opening made in the garment to facilitate easier removal by the wearer. Usually associated with the shirt cuff.

Jacket showing padding on the lapel and collar

Padding Successive rows of stitching, usually inside the under collar and lapels, that improve and impart shape to the more structured areas of the jacket.

Pattern A template for the garment cut in card or paper and used for marking out the parts onto the fabric prior to cutting.

Picks The weft yarns in a fabric.

Pile A surface effect on a fabric introduced for purpose or effect, that stands proud from the body of the material.

Usually associated with velvets, corduroys and cashmere overcoatings.

Pinking A serrated edge in the form of V-shaped cuts made by a machine or scissors with a serrated blade to prevent fraying and achieve a decorative edge.

12

I

Bespoken

Pleats Folds of material introduced to allow for expansion or to provide style features such as below the waistband in the front of a pair of trousers.

Plugging The fastening of decorative buttons, usually on a blazer, by inserting a plug through the eye of the button shank on the inside of the garment. This facilitates the removal of the buttons for cleaning.

Ply (Fabric) This is a single thickness or layer of fabric.

Ply (Thread) An individual yarn in a thread. The number of plies in a thread is the number of yarns that are twisted together to form the thread.

Pocket A bag inserted into or attached to a garment for practical or decorative use. Pockets may have flaps, jettings or welts.

Tailor’s Dictionary

Cross Pocket: A pocket that lies horizontally.

Frog Pocket: A trouser pocket opening in the shape of a ‘frog’s mouth’.

Hare Pocket: An extra large pocket inside the lining.

Jetted Pocket: A pocket mouth formed by applying jettings to the edge of the fabric.

Liverpool Pocket: A ticket pocket backed by an inside welt – Double-breasted blazer showing patch pockets a secret pocket.

Patch Pocket: A pocket formed by attaching a piece of material to the surface of the garment.

Welt Pocket: A pocket formed by a folded piece of material which forms the finished edge of the pocket – the top pocket on a jacket.

Q Quilting

A raised or padded effect achieved by stitching two layers of fabric, usually lining and wadding, in the chest area of livery garments.

R

Prick Stitch A hand stitch, or imitation hand stitch, made by passing the needle straight through the material at right angles to the surface alternating from one side to the other on jacket edges.

Coat with raglan sleeve

Raglan A design of sleeve with the armhole line extending from the front and back scye to the neck point so that the shoulder section is joined to the sleeve crown, eliminating the conventional shoulder and sleeve head seams.

Trousers with PTU, permanent turn ups

P.T.U An abbreviation of ‘permanent turn up’ as a finish for trouser hems.

Puff A small wedge of material sewn into a ‘V’ cut at various positions in the chest canvas to accommodate prominence such as the shoulders.

Ruffling A form of gathering of the fabric for effect.

Running Stitch A continuous hand stitch formed by passing the thread through the material alternately from top to underside and vice versa.

Text: Alan Cannon-Jones Illustrations: Hormazad Narielwalla

Bespoken

I

13

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

constant Innovation Every year, Scabal introduces an innovative new quality that stands out among even the finest cloths. In 2009 it was the world’s first gold and platinum stripe in the Treasure Box collection. This year, there are no less than three exclusive qualities in the Scabal collection that break new ground: Expression, Vicuna Jacketing and Riverside.

Š Jerry Laker

Vicunas grazing

14

I

Bespoken

Expression: the luxury of rare fibres Responding to man’s current desire to look his most elegant but feel his most comfortable, Scabal has introduced Expression, a lightweight Super 200’s blended with Vicuna and Chinchilla. This fine-looking cloth – luxurious to handle and soft to touch – offers a natural drape that remains when it is worn, giving the wearer a feeling of absolute comfort.

The basis of the 240g cloth is ultra fine 13-micron Super 200’s Merino wool.

Using advanced spinning technology, Scabal has then blended the wool with vicuna and chinchilla fibres, highly valued for their rarity and exceptional softness.

Traditional weaving “These precious, delicate fibres have been blended by the best weavers in our own Yorkshire mill in the heart of England’s textile industry” says Michael Day, Chief Designer at Scabal. “Their work is still based on the traditional techniques used by our ancestors.”

“Not only is Expression one of the finest cloths available, it has also been developed to assist the tailor during the various stages of garment making. It offers tailors the support, versatility and drape required in the production of a luxury garment; attributes often forgotten in other fine cloths today.”

To complete the traditional processes, Scabal has applied a ‘London Shrunk’ finish followed by an original ‘Paper Press’ – a highly skilled pressing method applied as the final treatment – giving the cloth a rich lustrous finish.

Vicuna and chinchilla Scabal selected vicuna and chinchilla as the finishing touches to Expression because of their exceptional fineness and soft feel. In fact, many fabric experts believe that vicuna is the finest natural fabric they can provide a tailor.

‘Vicuna, the finest natural fibre you can give a tailor’ Scabal’s imported vicuna wool is supported by CITES (Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species) certification, guaranteeing that the wool is truly a licenced original product, a scarce quality in today’s competitive market.

Revered by Inca royalty, hollow, airfilled vicuna hair has always been sought for its delicate fleeciness – so much so, that the small and agile camel was almost hunted to extinction in its native Andes highlands. Now under protection, vicuna numbers have made a dramatic recovery, especially in Peru.

Chinchillas are animals that also live high up in the Andes region. They too were hunted almost to extinction for their exceptionally fine and valuable fur.

The prestigious Expression collection is available in 14 elegant soft-stripe and plain designs. In addition to classical dark shades of grey and blue, it’s also on offer in lighter shades of blue and beige.

Vicuna jacketing: Timeless luxury Scabal introduced the world’s firstever 100 per cent worsted spun vicuna suiting cloth in the winter of 2008.

Now it has continued the innovation and produced a vicuna jacketing line, a 97 per cent worsted vicuna and 3 per cent silk blend.

“We blended Vicuna with the silk to give the yarn more stability and strength in the spinning process” says Nora Kraemer of Scabal’s Fabric Design Department.

“Vicuna fibres are very short and fine, therefore difficult to spin.”

Sorted by hand “It is difficult to spin worsted vicuna because the tightly-twisted fibres in the yarn have to be long – and vicuna hair is mostly very short. So the fleecy hair is sorted by hand, selecting only the longest fibres for the hi-tech worsted spinning process.”

Previously, the 100 per cent vicuna jacketing fabric was only available in three colours – natural, black and blue.

Now, for the first time ever, Scabal has introduced different colours and designs.

This collection includes 10 designs, five herringbones and five windowpanecheck designs on a herringbone ground weave. All are in classical, timeless shades of brown, dark grey, green-grey, navy blue and black.

Bespoken

I

15

© F. Vanzieleghem

Riverside – like the flowing river in Huddersfield

Completing our review of new Scabal collections is Riverside, an elegant 290g Super 120’s suiting cloth with a beautiful touch. Produced in Scabal’s own mill in Huddersfield, England, Riverside is scoured in exceptionally soft water, giving it a natural finish and soft feel rarely achieved with Super 120’s wool.

“We have named this suiting cloth ‘Riverside’ because of the benefits of scouring in the natural water of the River Colne that flows past the Scabal mill,” explains Ronald Hall, Managing Director of Bower Roebuck, Scabal’s weaving plant.

“These soft acidic waters which drain the peat moors of the Pennines have enabled this region to produce some of the finest quality cloth in the world.”

16

I

Bespoken

Soft to the touch Designs for this lighter-weight winter cloth are both elegant and fancy, with 54 designs in formal medium and dark shades ranging from soft-coloured to hairline stripes.

The soft water allows Scabal to carry out a ‘natural finishing’ after weaving, using natural soaps without the need to pre-treat the water or soften it

artificially. This natural process leaves Riverside much softer to the touch than conventional Super 120’s fabrics as well as less prone to create allergic reactions on the skin.

“Weaving is a technical skill but creation of the finest cloths is an art using the natural resources around you,” says Ronald Hall.

Nigel Bishop

Huddersfield in Yorkshire has been a weaving centre for almost 500 years.

Handed down from generation to generation, many of the weavers’ skills and traditions live on today.

It is a region of natural beauty and outstanding water, generously provided by the rivers which flow down from the Pennines.

© Scabal

Riverside: the softness comes from the water

A view of Huddersfield

Admiral’s Cup name approved by the Royal Ocean Racing Club, London.

The Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 48 in titanium. Corum CO753 exclusive movement chronometer certified.

An exclusive automatic chronograph with unique locking pushers. www.corum.ch

Autumn-WINTER 2010-2011 TRENDS

‘made by you’ This winter, Scabal will create a suit that mirrors your style, like your own reflection. A suit that’s ‘Made By You’.

Suit ‘Flannel & Saxony’ ref. 702798

Suit ‘Flannel & Saxony’ ref. 702798

Newspaper Bag Cabas Fauve

by Delvaux www.delvaux-eshop.com

Jacket ‘Gallery’ ref. 801348 Trousers ‘Ascona’ ref. 500714

Mirrors can be illusory. Whichever way you see yourself, make sure it’s the real you, with a wardrobe that expresses your true personality. ‘Made By You’.

Jacket ‘Flannel’ ref. 702833 Trousers ‘Flannel’ ref. 702828

The economics of manufacturing dictate that most goods are made before being sold. But sometimes the economics allow you to change this around – to choose components first and assemble later. It’s called customization.

Jacket ‘Flannel’ ref. 702833 Trousers ‘Flannel’ ref. 702828

Jacket ‘Flannel’ ref. 702833 Trousers ‘Flannel’ ref. 702828

Suit & Fabric ‘Flannel’ ref. 702812

Would you let someone choose your partner? Or your career? Or your house?

Of course you wouldn’t. So why let someone else choose the way your clothes look?

When your clothes are made to measure, they’re your creation.

Fabric ‘Flannel’ ref. 702812

Suit ‘Flannel & Saxony’ ref. 702828

Thanks to the internet, many companies are starting to offer personalized products, from cars and computers to holidays and footwear. Of course, tailors have offered this service for centuries.

Jacket ‘Gallery’ ref. 801332 Trousers ‘Corduroy’ ref. 500764

Jacket ‘Gallery’ ref. 801330 Trousers ‘Flannel’ ref. 702828

Photographer: Jean-François Carly Design: Pierre Daras @BaseDesign Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne @Scabal Text: Nigel Bishop

Dinner Jacket ‘Flannel’ ref. 702826

Stylish accessories

Winter Reflections

“One need not look at things or other people – one need only look in the mirror, because the mirror reveals us without a mask” – Oscar Wilde 100 per cent Merino wool pullover by Scabal 30

I

Bespoken

“A novel is a mirror voyaging along a long road.” – Stendhal, extract from The Red and the Black 100 per cent cotton shirts by Scabal Bespoken

I

31

“Luck is a mirror of hard work.” – English proverb 100 per cent wool ties and 100 per cent wool scarf by Scabal 32

I

Bespoken

Photographer: Filip Vanzieleghem Production: Sylvain Gadeyne Text: Jérôme Stéfanski

“A friend’s eye is a good mirror.” – English proverb 100 per cent wool scarf, 100 per cent wool handkerchiefs and scarf by Scabal Bespoken

I

33

34

I

Bespoken

IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

OWN YOUR LOOK More and more gentlemen want to feel that products are uniquely ‘theirs’ – and the more important it is to them, the more they want to make it their own.

It’s called customization, and it is the driving force behind Scabal’s growth.

© Filip Vanzieleghem

The new Scabal label – it’s more than made to measure, it’s ‘Made By You’

Bespoken

I

35

F

or the past 40 years, while the fashion world has moved to standardization and decentralized off-shore production, Scabal has been busy building customization and vertical integration in Europe. Now, with high-quality fabrics woven in England, orders centralized in Brussels and garments assembled in Germany, Scabal provides made-to-measure clothing to men around the world.

Scabal edge “Scabal was the first clothing company to offer this customization on a global scale,” says Gregor Thissen, CEO of the Scabal Group. “We have the experience, infrastructure, availability of fabrics and flexible production to provide a global made-to-measure service. These assets give us an edge in performance and customer choice.”

Scabal started in the 1930s as a cloth merchant selling to bespoke tailors – the founding fathers of customization. Hence, the company knew what was involved in the service. As bespoke tailors gradually declined in numbers, Scabal took the concept and placed it at the heart of the company’s business.

Although Scabal continues to sell cloth from its English mill to tailors, as well as designers and boutiques around the world, and produces ready-to-wear garments at its made-to-measure facility in Germany, customization defines the character and direction of the company.

Be your own designer “Customization creates freedom from brand dictatorship and gives everyone the possibility to become his own designer,” explains Gregor. “We give consumers advice and guidelines, but it is he who chooses his cloth, style, cut and personal finishing touches that make the garment unique. At the end of the day, the customer is the designer.

That’s why we call it ‘Made by you’ .”

Broadening to casual Scabal largely built its initial success on made-tomeasure business suits, but now has expanded towards less formal wear, responding to the dual trends of more casual office dress and the desire for more personalized leisure wear.

The latest example is Scabal’s range of soft jackets – garments with no lining, underlining or shoulder padding, which one wears almost like a shirt.

Popularized in Italy for its laid-back chic and summer coolness, the giacca camicia offers a soft natural fit.

True to Scabal’s values, this new line looks casual and elegant, but is given an extra exclusive dimension thanks to personalization. This means the buyer can choose his own fabric for details, such as a suit cloth for the under-collar or elbow patch, personal embroidery, or many of the other options available.

36

I

Bespoken

This goes to show that customization is not only about measurements, but also personal choices.

Right through the chain Strategically, Scabal has always placed customization at the forefront of its activities and invested heavily in the process, from the production of cloth and its distribution through high-end boutiques to its production of garments.

In terms of cloth production, Scabal’s mill – located near Huddersfield in the heart of the British traditional textile region – has the capacity and flexibility to produce thousands of different fabrics, weights, weaves and designs. It can even weave a client’s name into the fabric.

Tailor-trained workforce Scabal’s made-to-measure facility in Saarbrücken, Germany, puts together every garment exactly as it is ordered. This is the power-house of Scabal customization – the driving force of personalization and quality control that is so vital to this worldwide operation, as Scabal’s Technical Director Mario Arcuri explains: “We undertake high-quality hand-cutting and finishing in Italy for the Scabal N° 12 collection, but the vast majority of our customized garments are produced here in Germany. Here we use highly skilled tailor-trained people who understand the complexities of producing a made-tomeasure garment. Indeed, it takes real expertise to sew hundreds of jacket sleeves onto suits every day, when each and every suit is different.”

IT driven It is of course advanced technology that makes customization viable on this scale. Each individual incoming order is encoded, dictating every cut, stitch and process in the garment’s production. Computer Aided Design (CAD) optimizes the cloth cut and usage, while an automated interface orders the cloth from Scabal stocks in Brussels.

“Scabal was one of the very first medium-sized companies in Europe to invest in SAP IT systems,” says Mario. “We have always invested in the best available industrial equipment and technology, including state-of-the-art construction and cutting technology.”

This IT system is continually upgraded to manage the variables in the customization ordering and assembling process. With a collection of more than 5,000 different cloths and almost unlimited possibilities for personalizing garments – from sizes and styles to collars and buttonholes – Scabal’s IT system manages millions of options.

“Clothing customization is a complex process and we are one of the very few who can manage it. The key task for customization is to translate requirements from the market

© Colin Levêcque

Scabal’s integrated production site in Germany – a place where customization dreams become reality

into effective production” Mario adds. “In addition to adapting basic ready-to-wear models in terms of size, scale and fit to meet made-to-measure needs, Scabal also provides the tools that enable retailers to order effectively – a seasonal book with sizes, shapes and options and a fixed production and delivery timetable.

“It is also important that we provide technical support to retailers for made-to-measure. All Scabal representatives have the capability to support our outlets around the world.” human touch But obviously, computers can not and should not be responsible for everything. True to Scabal's philosphy, there is a human factor embedded in the system – a team of technicians check every order, eliminate errors and add a human perspective to the process. For example, mathematically calculated lines will be manually corrected to guarantee a more elegant fit – after all it is people who will wear the clothes, not machines. customer profile Down the years, Scabal has been able to distinguish three basic types of 'Made By You' clients. There are those individuals that want to fine-tune their suit to make it fashionable by working on jacket-lengths, tighter waists and the width of the trousers, or by choosing very trendy fabrics, a category that one might label the 'Made-To-Fashion' customer. Other clients will emphasize the actual fit and will work with their

clothing advisor to make sure that the garment is comfortable and respects their body shape - this group might be termed the 'Made-To-Measure' aficionados.

For the third type of customer, the most important factor is to distinguish himself by choosing a specific fabric, lining, buttons, embroidery or contrasted undercollar to make a statement - gentlemen who could be characterised as 'Made-To-Choice'.

And, of course, combinations of all three types are eminently possible.

Steps to simplify customization “Customization will continue to be the centre-piece of our commercial approach in the future,” says Gregor Thissen.

“The challenge is to reduce the complexity of the system for the consumer.

“Firstly, Scabal is looking to perfect online ordering with an IT tool that gives retailers a universal order format. We have to ‘standardize’ the customization ordering process to ensure that the order is respected and treated correctly, first time around.

“Secondly, we need better tools to help the consumer make choices. Most of all, we are working to develop a tool that enables the customer to visualize what we are offering. Seeing what you look like with the end product will make the ‘Made

By You’ purchase process even easier.”

Nigel Bishop

Bespoken

I

37

SELF EXPRESSION

Jimmy Wales: The ‘Made By You’ encyclopedia ‘Made By You’ – an expression that relates directly to the concept of a made-to-measure garment, but even more so when it refers to a global knowledge that’s dependent on each individual contributor. Wikepedia is a perfect example, and we meet the man behind the revolution.

© William Brawley

Wikipedia founder Jimmy Wales

T

here’s a chance you may not have heard of Jimmy Wales (‘Jimbo’ to his online friends and colleagues), but if you have ever used the internet, you will no doubt be aware of his biggest success story to date – Wikipedia. This enormous repository of user-contributed information will tell you everything from the population of India to details on the music career of William Shatner. Bespoken asked him: “Who is Jimmy Wales, and what makes him get out of bed in the morning?”

38

I

Bespoken

in the beginning Jimmy Wales is a total-success story, with the Wikipedia name being known throughout the world – a feat only achieved historically by Coca-Cola, McDonald’s and maybe Nike. Even more astonishing, perhaps, is the fact that this product is free to anyone who can access the internet, and that Wales himself makes not a single cent from it. The philosophy of the system also allows anyone to change information that they feel is not accurate – this peer-review system is the very backbone of Wikipedia.

Wikipedia is his crowning glory – such success wasn’t always his, however, as he’s had his fair share of failures and disasters too. Rather than make him give up, these seem to have galvanized the man to bigger and better things.

Wales started life in a relatively small American town – Huntsville, Alabama – in 1966. Following his graduation from the University of Alabama, he went on to work for a commodities trading firm in Chicago, where he amassed a respectable personal fortune of several million dollars. Following a not-too-successful foray into online restaurant booking (remember, this was 1996 and the market may have simply not been ready) he turned his thoughts to the search-engine market. This was a better bet on paper but, again, he had problems making it work – hackers compromised the site and it was shut down soon after.

One of his ideas, though, sowed the seed for the Goliath of online encyclopedias we know today.

‘Newpedia’, as it was known, was an effort by Wales to produce a for-profit encyclopedia, one written by experts. Having spent in the region of 250,000$ and ending up with fewer than 20 articles completed, he had what he calls the “really dumb idea” of creating a not-for-profit encyclopedia, written and edited by

Bespoken: There is a raft of information available on the web – and, indeed – in the world. Why you? Why Wikipedia?

Jimmy Wales: Why not? One of the things that I always tell people is that I am a carpenter, not an architect. By this I mean that I believe one reason for my success is that I’m willing to sit down and start working on something without asking questions like “Why me?”

The working model of Wikipedia seems – if you will pardon the word – impossible. Yet, it works and works very well. Why do you think people don’t just log in and deface large portions of others’ hard work?

People do it in public, why not ‘anonymously’?

The key is in the expression “accountability, not gate keeping”. The software keeps track of who is doing what, and makes it easy for us to block troublemakers. Also, all past versions are kept, so it is easy to restore to the proper state if someone tries to cause harm. In a nutshell, the philosophy is to abandon the concept of “absolute security” and instead work to make it slightly more difficult to cause harm, and slightly easier to do good. And the result follows.

You refused to co-operate with China in anything less than a completely transparent way regarding the accessibility of Wikipedia in China. Was this a personally political or an egalitarian stance, or maybe a bit of both? What is the availability of Wikipedia

everybody, primarily as a means of driving content to his Newpedia project. The rest, as they say, is history.

His philosophy As the founder of a website that enjoys the status of being in the top ten most-visited in the whole world, Wales has had the chance to look back on his career thus far and distil it into a few nuggets of wisdom for would-be entrepreneurs, which he set out in an interview with Tampa Bay Online a few weeks ago: •• Fail faster. If a project is doomed,

shut it down quickly.

•• Don’t tie your ego to any one project.

If it stumbles, you’ll be unable to move forward.

•• Real entrepreneurs fail.

•• Fail a lot. But enjoy yourself along the way.

•• If you handle these things well, you will succeed.

With such a philosophical attitude, it would seem that, for Wales at least, failing is the new winning.

Colin Moors

behind the ‘Great Firewall of China’ at present?

For me, access to knowledge is a human right – a corollary of the right to freedom of expression. That is to say, it makes no sense to say that one person has the right to free speech, if others are not allowed to read or listen. As such, it is impossible to participate or compromise in human-rights violations. Currently, Wikipedia is mostly available but – outside our control – some pages are filtered. We hope to continue to work with the Chinese government to encourage them to abandon those filters in due course.

How many articles (in all languages) does Wikipedia carry at the moment, and what’s the target?

There are around 15 million entries today. There is no target in terms of number of articles total, though. The goal is stated in this way – to have a free encyclopedia for every single person on the planet in their own language. One way of looking at that is to say I want us to have 250,000 entries in every language spoken by at least 1 million people.

What is coming up in the next ten years of Wikipedia? Are we likely to see any radical changes?

We will see some big changes in the editing process making it easier for new editors. But I think the end result – the look of Wikipedia when you visit it – will be essentially the same. Perhaps up to date with the style of the times, but in terms of text plus pictures, it should be more or less the same.

Bespoken

I

39

made-to-order only

Extra touches Adding accessories will complete an outfit and can be used artfully to give a sense of personal flair. Bespoken profiles the best of the best.

© Edward Green

Edward Green: A passion for shoes

L

adies often justify their high-end accessories by saying they can make or break an outfit; these words of wisdom apply equally to gentlemen.

A custom-designed suit can be instantly cheapened with the wrong shoes, while a tatty, disorganized briefcase will destroy an otherwise polished look.

Gentlemen can stand out from the crowd for all the right reasons with well-chosen extras. Witness Sean Connery as James Bond in his trilby hat or Robert Downey Jr.’s bright blue bow-tie jazzing up a conservative tuxedo at this year’s Academy Awards.

And what about the ultimate in finishing touches, the high-end set of personalized cufflinks? Truly, it’s all about ‘joined-up’ personal style.

Fancy footwork Jermyn Street shoemaker Edward Green has been pairing its clients with perfectly crafted shoes since 1890. Starting out with a small factory in Northampton, the company quickly gained an outstanding reputation, attracting clientele including the Duke of Windsor and Ernest Hemingway.

Their shoes take several weeks to make but it’s easy to understand why. Edward Green uses only the best quality hand-cut calf skins, and an unfinished leather which requires a great deal of hand polishing.

40

I

Denholm. “The pig’s bristle allows us to provide a level of detail and finish quite impossible with a machined process.”

Edward Green is renowned for excellent classic shoe designs. Oxfords, Chelseas, Derbies, Monks, boots and country shoes all feature in their range. These are shoes that definitely add a dash of elegance to any outfit but aside from getting a perfect fit, there’s also some room for customization.

The biggest seller is the Chelsea, a classic lace-up shoe but this proved to be a problem for an Arsenal Football Club fan who associated the name of the shoe with a rival team. “He said that although he loved the shoes, there was no way he could have a pair called ‘Chelseas’,” said Denholm. Not put off entirely, the customer asked Edward Green for a pair lined in red, the colour of his team’s strip, and labelled Arsenals.

Aside from these quirky requests, Denholm said there’s a real interest from clients in mixing textures such as suede, leather and patent. He cited the example of the brand’s iconic Galway boot made in twilight blue leather and suede.

Undoubtedly, the core business for Edward Green is black shoes and yet it attracts a wide client base that “can be anyone from the wealthy fund manager on to his twentieth pair to a younger guy looking to buy his first pair of shoes for a wedding”.

The tiniest of holes are made with a tool known as an awl.

Thread rubbed in beeswax is passed through the holes with a fine pig’s bristle, transformed into a needle. All this ensures there are no gaps and the shoes are watertight.

The price tag (close to 1,000£ for the highest end) does little to put off discerning clients. “When you think you could be wearing them in 20 year’s time, during which time they’ve built up a character and authenticity it would be impossible to fake, they begin to look like far less of a luxury.”

“This attention to detail results in a shoe which is both elegant and a better fit,” said Marketing Manager Euan

www.edward-green.com

Bespoken

© Paramount

French actor Alain Delon wearing a Borsalino gangster hat in the movie Borsalino & Co (1974)

Mad hatters Italian hat maker Borsalino will be taking its customers on a trans-Siberian journey with its collection for Autumn/Winter 2010-2011, bringing rich textures such as velvet and brocade and a palette of dusky hues, ranging from grey to aubergine and turtle-dove.

Its eclectic collection shows the company is keeping up with this year’s Alice in Wonderland fad with an off-beat, patchwork array of designs. Indeed, Johnny Depp, who plays the Mad Hatter in this year’s film of the novel, is a Borsalino fan.

‘Nowadays hats are becoming very popular and you see them on the runways of most famous fashion designers’ He’s in good company, since the hat maker also boasts the likes of singers Prince and Justin Timberlake, actor John Malkovich, Mikhail Gorbachev, and the ultimate female style icon, Madonna, among its clientele.

Selling hats might not seem like a clever business model. Years ago, ladies and gentlemen were generally expected to wear hats by social convention, whereas these days they are used purely as a fashion accessory.

Thanks to the superstars, Borsalino is enjoying some heady times. “Hats are not as common as a few decades ago but nowadays, they are becoming very popular and you see them on the runways of most famous fashion designers,” said Ilaria Barnabei of Borsalino marketing.

A modern interpretation of the Borsalino hat

Aside from celebrity clients, Borsalino still has a core of older customers, whose desire for hats stems back to those bygone days when everyone wore them, but also a growing client base among younger men and women around about the 30-year age mark.

Borsalino, which prides itself on moving with the times, has also cottoned on to the latest trend for environmentally friendly materials. By launching a collection using natural dyes, with wild berry and cocoa hues emulating the Siberian steppe, it hopes to tap in to the eco-conscious market.

The collection features fresh designs in everything from trilbies to flat caps, sported by quirky young models, peeking out cheekily from under a Borsalino brim and breathing new life into this accessory, which appears to be far from having had its day.

The company is also far from the days when its founder Alessandro began making hats, back in 1857, and the trend for headgear was based around classic panama hats (a favourite of Theodore Roosevelt) and bowlers, as worn by Winston Churchill.

Since then, it has grown into a worldwide business, exporting about 70 per cent of its products, mostly to the United States. Borsalino hats can be found in the world’s most exclusive stores including Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods.

If you remain unconvinced by hats, Borsalino – unsurprisingly, given its Italian connection – has a range of alternative headgear. Its motorcycle and scooter helmets, largely retro in their design, will certainly add a quirky touch for any bike enthusiast. www.borsalino.com

Bespoken

I

41

Bespoke cufflinks

HOLDING IT TOGETHER Lear jets and Harley Davidson motorbikes are just some of the carefully crafted cufflink designs dreamed up by London-based silver and goldsmith Greg Dennis, whose bespoke pieces have been holding together the shirt cuffs of the rich and famous for the past 23 years.

Trained at Wakely and Wheeler (originally makers of silver spoons), Dennis moved on to spend 12 years working for luxury goods maker Asprey. He’s now in his 38th year of producing fine silver and gold accessories, including everything from engagement rings to sports trophies.

In his Mayfair premises, Dennis also makes cufflinks for a range of Savile Row tailors and plies his wares to the likes of Danish silver specialists Georg Jensen and accessories king Roland Cartier. He also boasts Holland & Holland, purveyor of goods to shooting enthusiasts, as a client.

He explained that the market place is tough these days as a lot of trade has moved out to countries like Thailand. “Labour is cheaper there which gives those producers an advantage. But the disadvantage with that is that you cannot come down to the workshop and see the product being made.”

Aside from the more quirky requests, including 18 carat silver cufflinks depicting the famous scene of Marilyn Monroe standing above a subway with her skirt blowing up (apparently, some of his clients are gentlemen who ‘like it hot’), the most common requests are knots and shackles.

“We can make something that is completely for you. You can also speak to the person who is making it and come into the workshop as our products are all made here in London,” said Dennis, who added that, by using different materials, he can craft products to suit different price ranges.

However, several clients of a juridical persuasion have demonstrated a fondness for gavels “A lot of judges go for these,” said Dennis, and many clients indeed choose a design that is related to their profession or hobby. The same goes for clients buying cufflinks as a present.

This, said Dennis, is the advantage of bespoke cufflinks. “I can make the cufflinks unique and to whatever a person has in his head. If you want flowerpots, I’ll make those. If you want a polo-theme, I can make those and if you want a shooting theme, I can do that too. All bespoken,” said Dennis.

42

I

Bespoken

His range to date, includes typical designs such as the Oxford oval, which Dennis recommends as a smart classic, gekkos, pheasants, bears and bulls, a salmon and fly linked by a silver chain for fishing enthusiasts, and a barrel and grapes for wine aficionados.

To date, Dennis’s most luxurious pair – for a client whose identity he could not disclose - were made of platinum. A hefty four carat of diamonds and four carat of sapphires, all princess cut, were set on an hexagonal mount. The price tag? 14,000£. www.savilerowcufflinks.co.uk

‘What men usually look for is blue with a bit of blue. They are not so fashion driven’

At the end of the day It’s hard to imagine from a fashion point of view what wizardry students, smouldering movie icon Marlon Brando, singing sensation John Lennon and sultry actress Angelina Jolie could possibly have in common; the answer is Derek Rose pyjamas.

Since 1926, the Rose family has been designing highend woven fabrics and traditional pyjamas for royalty and the aristocracy – Princess Diana was a fan – and Hollywood. They’ve also clothed actors for the Harry Potter movies, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001) and Valkyrie (2008).

In 2008, it launched the Naturally Collection, which includes woven trousers, t-shirts, and polo shirts. “For this, we’ve seen huge growth,” said Rose. “We already have 200 customers. This is a very sound growth opportunity.”

The t-shirt range was a challenge for a company specialized in woven materials other than jersies. After months of development, Sacha said they hit the right note.

“People appreciate its quality. It keeps its shape when you wash it and when you touch it, you understand it is stand-out quality.”

Lou Rose was joined by his son Derek in the 1950s, before Derek launched his own company. It’s still truly a family affair. While his son Sacha Rose regales with details of the latest business developments, his sister Nancy Rose-Pagani chips in.

Aside from famous movie pieces, Derek Rose has fulfilled a range of personal requests, including a gown made from the wool of a vicuna, a South American camelid, which may only be shorn once every three years, making the yarn extremely rare. The price tag for that gown was 10,000£.

To be sure, the core competence is in traditional pyjamas, especially for the male clientele. “A lot of the business is classic,” said Joint Managing Director, Sacha Rose, adding, jokingly: “What men usually look for is blue with a bit of blue. They are not so fashion driven.”

It’s not just about blue pyjamas. Although the company has weathered the global financial crisis well (apparently, high end clients are not prone to skimp on their nightwear purchases), it’s now branched out into lounge wear for men.

© Derek Rose

The collection is chiefly classic nightwear designed for people with a high net worth. The ready-towear range can be found in luxury shops such as Selfridges, Harrod’s, Barney’s, and Saks, and bespoke pieces are available by contacting the company directly.

Fancy or classic? Derek Rose offers a solution for every gentleman

The company has also sent out testers for a range of children’s nightwear, surely set to be a hit for the legions of Potter fans. “Logically, a lot of that market are wearing pyjamas,” said Rose, adding that there had been many requests for such a line, which will be launched in the Autumn.

Rose, unsurprisingly, is a devotee of his family’s brand and quickly reels off his favourite items. By day, he can be found decked out in a naturally collection T-shirt in either denim or white and by night in the blue flannel tie-waist pyjamas. “They’re snug and comfortable,” he said. www.derek-rose.com Emma Portier Davis

Bespoken

I

43

The bespoke coach

make the right choice Who better than Eric Musgrave, author of Sharp Suits, to advise on how to avoid mistakes when selecting a made-to-measure outfit?

Š Scabal

With Scabal’s Private Line collection, you can even personalize your fabric with your own name or message

44

I

Bespoken

© Scabal

Working buttonholes with kissing buttons and embroidered names are frequent indicators of made-to-measure suits, because such options are very rare in ready-to-wear Fabric: Velvets Corduroy ref. 580202

C

hoosing a ‘Made By You’ suit is a luxurious treat for any man. The whole process allows you to become a ‘designer for a day’, with you owning a unique outfit as a result, which should look good, wear well and make you feel special. Quite a list of benefits, isn’t it?

A brief definition The ‘Made By You’ (MBY) suit is an important step in graduating from the familiar territory of ready-to-wear tailoring to the rarefied world of personalization. More importantly, however, the process allows you, as the purchaser, to define a large number of variable options – cloth, lining, buttons, the number of pockets, the shape of the jacket and trousers, pleats, turn-ups and so on.

Take your time, look around The most important point about buying a ‘Made By You’ suit is to take your time. While it may be unusual to specify such a range of preferences, the experience should not be difficult or stressful. A good clothes advisor should be able to assist you in selecting the right options for your requirements, but it will pay dividends if you do your own homework before even arriving at the tailor’s.

Start by reviewing your own wardrobe. Which jackets and trousers are you particularly fond of? What are the styles in which you feel most comfortable? Which colours seem to work for you? Which of your suits often elicit complimentary comments from your partner, friends or work colleagues? Which details do you really appreciate – perhaps that inside pocket for your mobile phone, that button on the back trouser pocket, or that comfortably deep side pocket? Don’t hesitate to show your tailor the garments that you like.

You might also remember what you like about friends’ suits, or even go and look at other suits in stores to see if there are certain details that you’d like to try. Always remember to try on these other suits – how they appear on a hanger and what they look like on you might be significantly different.

Scabal offers more than 200 personalization options to make your suit unique.

A suit for every occasion Once you have drawn up a list of details, you must then consider for what purpose you require the suit for. Is it going to be mainly for work, needed perhaps twice a week for business meetings? Or perhaps for special social occasions, when you want to stand out from the crowd?

For most men, the former would probably require a

Bespoken

I

45

fairly sober choice of cloth, whereas the second offers more freedom for pattern and colour. A dark, simple business suit cloth would not necessarily result in a boring outfit – it would make a superb backcloth for an impressive shirt, tie and accessory combination.

Conversely, a bold cloth may make a strong initial impact but may become familiar and, perversely, ‘boring’ after only a few outings.

Work as a team For any successful ‘Made By You’ purchase, the salesman’s input is crucial. Firstly, he (or she) has to be well trained to measure you correctly – without correct measurements, no suit is going to look good. Most good providers are well organized, with good templates for the salesman to follow, so you should be in safe hands.

These days, you will also probably find that most style consultants are open to your ideas. Thirty years ago, I had a lot of trouble convincing one old-timer that it was acceptable to use a fancy Glen check for a doublebreasted formal suit; he was absolutely sure it could only be used for a sports jacket. Listen to the sales person’s advice, but remember that it’s your suit.

Choose the right fabric Cloth selection is a perhaps the most crucial element of the process. It’s the one thing that can’t be altered once the suit arrives. While I can marvel at the technical advances that provide cloths with such lightweight qualities, living as I do in the unreliable climate of England, I like my suits to have a nice weight and handle. I find that some of the modern lightweights do not offer a great deal of warmth on a cold autumn or winter day, and another factor to bear in mind is the fabric’s resistance to creasing and its ability to ‘bounce back’ after wearing, which is important if you spend a lot of time in a car or often travel on planes. Once again, most modern cloths are much better than they used to be, but discuss the performance qualities of whatever cloth you are considering carefully.

Notwithstanding all of Scabal’s strenuous efforts in terms of finesse and feel, the prime objective has always been to produce fabrics that are flexible, solid and stylish. It is for this reason that the 5,000 fabrics which make up Scabal’s permanent stocks are at the complete disposal of our clients.

If it’s your first time trying customized clothes, I would advise playing fairly safe with cloth and indeed with cut, but have fun with the ‘extras’. To select fancy lining is an obvious way to stamp your individuality, but this should not be limited just to a bright colour. Also, with both the cloth and lining, try and check the colour in natural light or at least on a large sample piece,

46

I

Bespoken

although I know this is often impossible when all you have is a small swatch of fabric as a reference. I once selected what I thought was a very impressive bright green for a jacket lining. Once it arrived, however, I found it a bit too strong even for my bold tastes, and realized that I should have gone for a less aggressive shade. One of the best ideas I’ve seen was the use of a typical Liberty floral cotton print as a lining – it looked very fresh and distinctive. I have even heard of Hermès silk scarves being used as jacket linings, but that will increase your budget! Another neat idea that is growing in popularity is to have just one buttonhole – perhaps on the cuff – sewn in a contrast thread. This offers a touch of individuality without being too outrageous.

Very important in the ‘Made By You’ experience – and indeed for any suit – is to buy two pairs of trousers, as these wear out much faster than jackets. I usually vary my trousers, so that, for example, one pair has turn-ups (or cuffs) and one has plain hems, and one has slant side and the other frogmouth pockets. This is part of the fun of the personalization process – you can experiment.

Listen to the sales person’s advice, but remember that it’s your suit Add accessories I also like to add a waistcoat to a ‘Made By You’ suit. A waistcoat (or vest if you are American) adds a very bespoke touch to a suit, but remember that a waistcoat should really not be worn with a belt on your trousers. You can always go for buttoned braces (don’t even think about clipon braces!), but a more flexible option would be to choose trousers with a plain waistband (that is, without belt loops), with side adjusters that can keep the trousers up on their own. The ‘Made By You’ shirt is also an accessory that is interesting to consider – numerous products exist, and I would advise choosing a ‘Made By You’ shirt from either Italy, France or England, as these countries offer an incontestable level of quality.

Stepping up from regular off-the-peg suits should not be daunting. It should be fun and, as I know from personal experience, once you have had a ‘Made By You’ experience, it is difficult to go back to buying regular ready-to-wear. The good thing is that the relatively small difference in price means that it should not be a problem to return for another go, to try out a few more of your own ideas.

Eric Musgrave

Cloud 9 [60m (196’7) CMN, 2009]

This 2009-built motoryacht from CMN, designed by Andrew Winch is one of the latest additions to the Camper & Nicholsons International fleet for charter.

www.camperandnicholsons.com Sale & Purchase I New Construction I Yacht Charter I Charter Marketing I Yacht Management I Crew Placement Antibes I Monaco I Geneva I London I Mallorca I Fort Lauderdale I New York I Newport I Palm Beach C&N marks are registered trademarks used under licence by CNI. Photos: All rights reserved

The gourmet place

COOKED BY THE GENTLEMEN For quite some time, cuisine has been synonymous with chic. Convivial and satisfying, even the most macho men have succumbed to cooking’s charms.

So, why not you?

© Anne-Katrin Sura for Walter Hädecke Verlag, Germany, taken from “Das Männerkochbuch”

It’s time to cook, gentlemen!

T

rue luxury – isn’t it all about offering pleasures that can’t be merely ‘bought’? Such refinements are not necessarily always the most expensive, but rather those into which one can put a little heart and soul. For example, a one-on-one dinner in an amazing restaurant is accessible to anyone with a credit card but, on the other hand, to don an apron, put your nose to the grindstone and offer a delectable meal of one’s own creation? Beyond price.

48

I

Bespoken

To be seated in a restaurant and order a meal: 10 minutes.

To do the shopping, commandeer the kitchen and serve up a meal: Two hours.

Time is a luxury, but it is so important to concentrate on the real value of cooking for yourself and your loved one.

As usual, it needs a woman to explain it to the men!

As Das Männerkochbuch (A Man’s Cookbook – Adventures in the Kitchen) author Anne-Katrin Sura says: “You can’t go wrong when you cook with love and passion – these are the ingredients for happiness, and this is what nurtures friendship and love. ‘Courage’ guys – this is the real art of loving!”

RECIPE

© Chris Meier, BFF, Stuttgart for Walter Hädecke Verlag, Germany, taken from “Das Männerkochbuch”

Tournedos with polenta and salsa verde: Where is the beef?

This is the perfect entrée for a memorable dinner and special night – the beef combines perfectly with the smoothness of the polenta and the aroma of mint, parsley and basil.

Meat 100g piece of tournedos per person 80ml beef stock Three tablespoons of dry Sherry or Madeira Salt, pepper Oil for frying Polenta 100 g instant polenta ½ cube of chicken stock Two tablespoons of freshly grated parmesan cheese 50g butter Salsa Verde One clove of very fresh garlic (not advisable on your first date!) ½ bunch of parsley ½ bunch basil- and/or mint-leaves One tablespoon capers (fine) ½ tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ tablespoon wine vinegar 75ml olive oil (extra virgin) 1. Cook the polenta with the chicken stock, add the parmesan and one tablespoon of butter and season to taste with salt and pepper when the polenta is ready. Spread on a baking tray (with baking paper) and allow to cool.

2. Meanwhile, chop all the herbs for salsa verde finely and add olive oil.

3. Choose a glass slightly larger than the tournedos slices and cut two to four rounds out of the polenta dough.

4. Fry the polenta in the rest of the butter and some oil in a frying pan for 10 minutes until they are crispy. Keep hot in the preheated oven on baking paper.

5. Fry the meat four minutes on each side (medium) on maximum heat, reduce the heat slowly when the meat looks well roasted.

Leave to cool for another five minutes.

6. Take the frying pan and add beef stock and sherry and let it simmer until the sauce reduces, then add the meat juice and the rest of the butter and stir well.

7. Serve the meat with sauce on a polenta round, and sprinkle with the salsa verde.

8. Enjoy your meal!

Tournedos with polenta and salsa

This recipe is an extract from the bestseller Das Männerkochbuch (A Man’s Cookbook – Adventures in the Kitchen)

by Anne-Katrin Sura, first published by Haedecke in 2007.

Bespoken

I

49

In people we trust

Market-led A big challenge for Bespoken – to inform you about the department that is at the heart of Scabal, without indulging in ‘self-promotion’. So, have we succeeded?

‘market-minded’. To begin with the product itself, focused on innovation, Scabal was the first to develop and market fabrics of the quality of Super 100’s and Super 120’s, for example.

These technical innovations were supported by innovative marketing, which consisted of, firstly, defining the quality in question and then promoting that quality. Other technological innovations followed, to strengthen Scabal’s position in the finest-fabrics market: Summit (Super 200’s and cashmere), Diamond Chip (diamond fragments woven into the fabric), Gold Treasure (gold thread woven into the fabric), 100 per cent vicuna, and not forgetting, of course, the ‘Made in England’ tradition.

Scabal’s young and dynamic marketing team: (L-R) Wilfried Redant, Jérôme Stéfanski, Tania Herregodts, Sylvain Gadeyne, Kristel Geets and Céline Van Cauwelaert

T

here was a time when the advertisers that spent the most in terms of media coverage were guaranteed to generate most sales. Regardless of the quality of the product being sold, the image being conveyed and media omnipresence were such a strong combination that consumers could only succumb. Unfortunately, there were many abuses of this position of power.

Today however, the brands with such a foundation have found it very difficult to survive the recent economic storm, while other brands that have flirted with such methods, while not going under, have found it very difficult to build their business levels back up.

50

I

Bespoken

In addition, other (more exclusive) brands re-declared their absolute faith in their companies’ founding values, frequently established before the term ‘marketing’ was even invented. Such is the case with clock and watchmaker Patek Philippe, Aston Martin and leather goods manufacturer Delvaux.

It is also the case with Scabal. So, what binds these brands? Well, it’s a question of an impeccable product, created in exemplary working conditions. Time for an explanation.

Marketing since the beginning Even at Scabal’s origins, particularly strong marketing concepts were involved. Whether these were conscious or intuitive is not completely clear, but one thing is certain – the choices made were

This is the current basis of Scabal’s strategy: to provide solid support to its retailers worldwide Scabal has also been innovative with garments, while consolidating its position at the very heart of the made-to-measure market. Whereas now most brands are battling for the edge in customization, Scabal made personalization its raison d’être from the very outset.

Useful and beautiful Having a superb product is one thing, knowing how to present, promote and package it is quite another. Need we remind you that Scabal was the creator of the now world-famous fabric ‘bunch’? Practical, aesthetic and very easy to transport, the bunch caused a real stir in the fabric trade when it was first introduced. A few years

© Scabal

Luxury fabrics packaging handcrafted by Scabal in Brussels

later, the first Scabal presentation cases containing its superfine fabrics appeared – and these are still handmade by Scabal’s experienced craftsmen in the heart of Brussels.

© Scabal

To advertise its products, Scabal places great emphasis on the human factor – campaigns are only launched as the result of ideas-exchange, debate and deliberation. Since 2000, the company’s communications strategy has been centred primarily on public relations, the internet and event-driven or direct marketing. The campaigns are entrusted to a traditional advertising agency, which is also responsible for Bespoken’s page layout. A perfect PR tool, Bespoken is very important to Scabal, because it allows the brand to impart its knowledge, experience and vision of luxury, which has been hardearned over generations.

With the passing of time, thanks to the renown and recognized expertise

that it has earned in the fabrics market, Scabal has acquired an enviable position in its respective markets.

God is in the retail To provide solid support to its retailers worldwide is the current basis of Scabal’s strategy. Identifying your market is vital and Scabal has seen a change in its client profile over the past five years. Arguably the biggest shift has been in its age range and, while traditionally this has been the 50+ group, it has now moved to the 35+ demographic. Consequently, the need to enhance the creativity and contemporary outlook of its products, but to remain linked to provision of a quality end product and service is paramount in both keeping existing customers and attracting new ones.

The desire to help Scabal retailers maximize promotion to their own client databases around the world requires

Bunches, invented by Scabal Bespoken

I

51

© Scabal

Left : Scabal’s Autumn-Winter 2001-2002 advertising campaign / Right: Scabal’s Autumn-Winter 2010-2011 advertising campaign. In less than 10 years, the product and the image have evolved a lot

a dedicated in-house team. Each person has their own specific duties but throughout the Scabal business all are inextricably linked and constitute the driving force behind delivering the necessary tools to promote the Scabal name to retailers worldwide.

Here, we take the opportunity to introduce them.

The marketing team Tania Herregodts Has worked for Scabal for nearly 20 years and is the key link between the activities of the marketing department and CEO Gregor Thissen.

Wilfried Redant Responsible for all Scabal’s websites, in particular the key role of content management. Initially joined Scabal for the specific task of creating the online fabrics catalogue (more than 5,000 items available), which has been particularly important in the US market. Wilfried is also responsible for the Scabal e-newsletter.

Jérôme Stéfanski Responsible for all aspects of Bespoken – editorial, images and advertising.

Jérôme is also the driving force behind Bespoken Club, a strong concept in which Scabal works in close collaboration with other luxury brands that share the same values, such as Maserati, Jaguar, Ruinart, Baunat Diamonds and Remy Martin to develop sales and marketing partnerships.

52

I

Bespoken

Celine Van Cauwelaert Sales & Marketing Assistant. Her role is to be the link between marketing, inhouse sales department and retail outlets.

On a day-to-day basis, she gives support in all aspects of marketing to Scabal’s retail partners. She is also involved with co-coordinating and organizing promotional material and its delivery to the retail outlets around the world.

Sylvain Gadeyne Visual Merchandiser – Sylvain travels extensively across Europe ensuring that the Scabal image is harmonious in terms of styling throughout all the shops network. He is also responsible for the main showrooms in terms of ‘look and feel’, and advises on photoshoots.

Kristel Geets As Communication Coordinator, she is the heart and soul of the marketing department. Her role includes the management of photoshoots, PR and advertising agencies, creation of pointof-sale material and all publicity and advertising campaigns. Fluent in five languages, Kristel is also responsible for all internal communications.

As with any company, communication and interactivity between all the members of the department is crucial.

Only if the team works well together, is the marketing department able to deliver the necessary tools to the retailers.

“Product and service is not only the difference between Scabal and its competitors but is also the emphasis of its message,” says Gregor

Thissen. This strong focus, which is at the core of their sales driven marketing, transcends across all aspects of Scabal’s activities worldwide, both internal and external. The importance placed on this and the involvement with retailers has led to some exciting and extremely successful partnerships in which both parties have shared a common goal.

Earlier this year, the company linked up with Maserati in Belgium in launching two events at local Scabal retailers, where both new and existing clients had the opportunity to see the tailormade options in both suits and cars.

That’s the main function of the Bespoken Club – to gather international brands on the same level that share the same values of authenticity and innovation and to organize events to which their respective customers are invited.

“An emphasis on style, design and discretion are synonymous with Maserati and formed an ideal partnership with Scabal, a brand that also shares these values,” said Maserati Marketing Manager Benelux Laurent De Backer, The success of these events confirmed and reinforced Scabal’s commitment to place the emphasis on, and work closely with, the local retailer.

But is the Scabal brand where it should be? “Never – it is a continual process to keep on improving and then to improve some more,” answers Thissen.

Stephen Papandropoulos

GENTLEMEN’S MEETING

The man behind ‘the ghost’ The star, alongside Scabal aficionado Pierce Brosnan, of Roman Polanski’s much-acclaimed The Ghost Writer (2010), Scottish actor and icon Ewan McGregor talks to Bespoken about his acting adventures.

K

nown across the galaxy since his role as the young Obi-Wan Kenobi in the Star Wars prequel trilogy, Ewan McGregor has gone from strength to strength as an actor. Moving from sharp, unforgiving interpretations in Shallow Grave (1994) and Trainspotting (1996) to seductive romantic roles in Moulin Rouge! (2001) and Down With Love (2003) he has seldom been off our screens, and has worked with some of the world’s finest directors, including Danny Boyle, Tim Burton, George Lucas, Woody Allen, Ron Howard and, most recently, Roman Polanski in The Ghost Writer (2010), adapted from the Robert Harris novel. McGregor plays ‘The Ghost’, the ghost writer of the title, who lands the opportunity to write the memoirs of renowned UK Prime Minister Adam Lang (any similarities to Tony Blair are mere coincidence, of course) played by Pierce Brosnan. But writing for a living can be very dangerous, as The Ghost is about to discover. Amid all the acclaim, Bespoken caught up with Ewan for a chat.

INTERVIEW Bespoken: Does the location of a prospective movie play an important part in your choice of scripts, as you are well known as a man who loves to travel? Also, what was your best recent on-set experience?

Ewan McGregor: I have never had the opportunity to choose the locations for my movies, and no, it’s other considerations that determine my choice. Yes, I love to travel, but I do have to say that I would be glad sometimes to have the opportunity to work at home, because it can be hard to be on location far away for so long. In The Men Who Stare At Goats (2009) the atmosphere on set was great because 54

I

Bespoken

Scottish actor Ewan Mc Gregor

the director Grant Heslov loves to work at a certain rhythm and doesn’t go for megatakes – two or three are enough, which is good, because I have had bad experiences in the past when I have had to work for an entire day on a very short scene. I loved working with George Clooney, Jeff Bridges and Kevin Spacey. We laughed a lot, had a lot of fun and, don’t forget, we also worked with professional goat actors, who were fantastic! [laughs] How do you feel about your profession?

I’ve always loved this job, and my passion for what I do is actually growing. What I don’t like are the moments when you have to wait – not only when we are actually working on set, when make-up has to be done or when a scene is being set up, but also the gaps between a great movie and the next one. You have to wait a long time to

achieve a perfect interpretation and, in our job, the chances to work on ambitious and interesting projects are rare. Sometimes, you have to wait for years.

Some of your fellow actors, such as Sean Penn, are politically engaged.

What about you?

Not really. To begin, I have never been in the army, but I have a brother who, until two years ago was in the RAF, flying Tornadoes in war-zones. My only experience of conflict was the 48 hours I once spent in Baghdad Airport. I met a lot of soldiers, and I was very surprised at how young they were, but I also left that airport feeling very proud, as these guys were doing something I could never have done. I didn’t want to stay in that place one minute more than was absolutely necessary.

so I realized that it was not a personal thing between him and me – it’s just how he directs.

Was there anything about Roman Polanski’s methods that particularly stood out?

One day on set, and we had been shooting for some weeks at this point, Roman came up to me and said: “I have an idea for the ending,” and he described it to me, and I thought it was just amazing. It’s a beautiful, very clever shot, in which I don’t think the camera moves apart from following my character through a door and then it’s static. It’s a beautiful piece of storytelling, classic filmmaking, classic Polanski. You can imagine other directors needing 50 shots for the sequence in question, and he just pans the camera and leaves us to imagine what’s going on offscreen, which is marvellous.

McGregor in The Ghost Writer (2010)

Tell us how it was to work with Roman Polanski I only spoke to Roman on the phone before I met him in Germany, because he was in Switzerland at the time and I was shooting The Men Who Stare at Goats in New Mexico and Puerto Rico, and I was unable to get to Europe, so we didn’t actually meet before I turned up. That day, I was doing costume fittings when he came in, and as you know he’s an iconic man and a legendary director so, for an actor, it was quite nerve-wracking to meet him. He’s like a perfect host before you get on set, but he’s two very different men [laughs]. When you’re off set, he’s preparing you coffee and making sure everyone’s alright and then when you start working, be it on the text or actually on set, he’s very direct. His direction is not guarded or sugar-coated in any way

– he’s really quite brusque with it. But his style is always very interesting, and it’s no coincidence that he’s considered to be a great movie director. On set, you just have to listen to him and, more often than not, in fact all the time, he is right.

It’s kind of annoying, but when you follow his instructions, it’s like ‘Oh, yeah, he’s right about that’. Actors are quite sensitive, myself included, and when I tried something out, if Polanski didn’t like it, he wouldn’t worry about hurting your feelings. But I have to say that I realized very quickly he’s like that with everybody – he directed the props guy, the painter and the set dresser in exactly the same way. In fact, all of our camera crew was Polish, he often hung out with them between scenes and you could hear them telling jokes in Polish. They were his buddies, but he was toughest with them when he was directing,

In The Ghost Writer, you also had the chance to work with Pierce Brosnan.

How was that?

Pierce is an actor I’ve always followed – there’s a handful of other actors that you wonder if one day you might work with, and Pierce was always one of those.

I’ve always enjoyed watching him. My experience in The Ghost Writer was unique, in that I was there from the beginning to the end, and I was always there – I was always on set. I became like one of the crew, really, whereas other actors would come in and out. But for the first week or so, I was mainly on my own.

I just did all the stuff with ‘The Ghost’ on my own, before Pierce arrived, and he was tremendous to work with, simple as that.

facts and figures Full Name: Ewan Gordon McGregor Date of birth: 31st March 1971 Notable movies: Shallow Grave (1994), Trainspotting (1996), Star Wars Episodes I, II & III (1999, 2002, 2005), Moulin Rouge!

(2001), Black Hawk Down (2001), Angels & Demons (2009), The Ghost Writer (2010)

Federico Grandesso Bespoken

I

55

SCABAL ACROSS THE WORLD

Born to be a tailor As a cloth supplier, Scabal has the chance to work with the world’s most prestigious tailors.

Among them is A. Caraceni, a fifth-generation traditional tailor’s boutique in Milan.

was more than an accomplished tailor; he was also a successful businessman who came to employ more than three dozen tailors during his fourdecade tenure. One of these, Carlo Andreacchio, eventually married Caraceni’s daughter, Rita Maria, and inherited the business upon Mario’s retirement in 1998. Now, more than a decade later, Carlo is passing his tailoring knowledge and skills onto his son, Massimiliano.

“I believe I was born to become a tailor,” says fifth-generation artist Massimiliano.

© Hélène Hody

“The shop was my school and all the tailors, particularly my father, were my teachers,” he adds, explaining that he always had a passion for the work, and never dreamed of doing anything else.

Carlo Andreacchio and his wife Rita Maria Caraceni with their son Massimiliano

A

mong the high points of Mario Caraceni’s distinguished 40-year career as a master tailor, or sarto in Italian, is the day in the summer of 2004 when his then 19-year-old grandson, Massimiliano Andreacchio, announced that he wanted to become a tailor. Caraceni was so delighted he couldn’t wait to contact the local media.

For young Massimiliano, now 24, the prospect of becoming a tailor was not so much a choice as a foregone conclusion. The name Caraceni has

56

I

Bespoken

been woven into the fabric of Italian tailoring since the late 19 th century, when Massimiliano’s great, great grandfather, Tommaso, opened the first eponymous tailor’s shop in Ortona a Mare, in the Abruzzi region of Italy, famous for its tailoring prowess. In turn, each of Tommaso’s three sons – Domenico, Galliano, and Agostino–also became tailors, establishing the Caraceni name in Rome in 1913. By the 1930s, Agostino was dispatched to Paris, where he operated a branch of the Caraceni atelier until WW II forced him to return home. After the war, in 1946, he set up his own atelier, A. Caraceni, in Milan and began training his own son Mario in the art of tailoring. Mario

Nevertheless, despite his bloodline, tailoring hasn’t always come easy to the young protégé. “I am left-handed, and I had to learn to sew with my right hand, which was very difficult,” says Massimiliano, who is now in the fifth year of his apprenticeship. “The most difficult sections of a suit to make are the shoulders and armholes,” he adds, indicating that the classic Caraceni suit is noted for its soft shoulders and lightweight interior construction.

“My grandfather says that the suit is so soft, and the shoulder so flexible you can actually fence while wearing it,” Massimiliano adds, pointing out that Caraceni’s precise cutting and construction methods would challenge even the most proficient tailor.

His grandfather Mario shares the family secret: “The stitches are loose, not tense, which gives the clothing a certain elasticity and helps it conform to the wearer’s shape.”

Mario insists that the tailors in his shop always wear their own jackets: “This tradition is perpetual, from generation to generation.”

William Kissel & Hélène Hody

© Hélène Hody

Inside Caraceni’s workshop. Since forever, a horseshoe has been used to hold the paper in place while the tailor draws the pattern…superstition?

INTERVIEW Bespoken: What is it that distinguishes Caraceni from other renowned tailors?

CA: Our style, the particular ways in which we have worked for generation after generation. We do not follow fashion, it is fashion that follows us. In this way, you can say that our creations have a smart, timeless and international style. We offer a passe partout style, a refined rather than ‘poke in the eye’ style!

‘I want our suits to last twenty years, at least’ What advice would you give to someone who had never ordered a bespoke suit, because he was happy with ready-to-wear ?

Everything depends on the circumstances in which the suit will be worn. Generally, I think that I would advise a grey or darkgrey suit for a first-time customer because it can be worn for any occasion. If he is looking for a suit for a special occasion, however, I would advise blue. For the choice of fabric, I would recommend a strong material without hesitation – after all, I want our suits to last twenty years, at least. The cut is obviously important too, as it is important that the suit hangs well and accentuates the movement of

the gentleman wearing it. For example, when a man sits, this should not raise his trousers or jacket, all must remain aligned to perfection. Without being snobbish, I must insist that new clients are only allowed on our premises by recommendation. Before we accept a new client, we make certain enquiries.The only exception is with young grooms – every time, I am so touched by their devotion, it is impossible to say no!

What are A. Caraceni’s main aims for the next ten years?

Certainly, the most important thing is to keep our regular clients and to guarantee perfect work. With the help of Massimiliano, I also want to reach out to younger clients and to train young tailors, who will be able to ensure the continuation of our company.

Which famous personalities would you like to make a suit for ?

Without any hesitation, French President Nicolas Sarkozy. Moreover, I know that since he married Carla Bruni, he has increasingly employed the services of Italian tailors. I would also like to tailor for US President Obama, because he has natural class, and Prince Charles of England, because with a man of his elegance, one can allow oneself to play with colours!

You are renowned across Italy as being the tailor to the stars. Could you name a few famous clients for us?

I could list some very famous names, but I make it a point that we do not differentiate between this type of client and our regular customers. It matters not a jot if you are ‘ famous’ or not – service and quality are guaranteed. For the record, however, it has been my pleasure to tailor to Karl Lagerfeld, Ralph Lauren, several Agnelli family members, the Moratti family, and the owners of Inter Milan FC. There are many others as well, but I will not reveal them to you, because privacy is paramount in our relationship with clients. People come here incognito – so much so that some do not even want to go on the balcony to look at fabrics in daylight, for fear the paparazzi will be waiting for them. At certain times, our workshop is also a venue for meetings — our customers are always made to feel at home.

A. CARACENI FACTS: Company launched: 1930 Generation: Fifth Employees: 35, of whom 33 are tailors Suits made per year: Around 700 T +39 (0) 2 655 19 72

Bespoken

I

57

NEWS

SUCCESS STORIES In recent months, Scabal’s agenda was filled with exiting and successful projects, of which we present a selection.

Happy Birthday, Mr Stark!

ONE MORE FOR THE ROAD

Following the success of its previous ‘decopack’, launched for SpringSummer 2009, Scabal has decided to create an Autumn-Winter version, made from fabrics in the upcoming collection, following clients’ requests.

A solid success. www.scabal.com

Located on the highly prestigious Rue de la Paix in Paris, just a short walk from the no-less renowned Place Vendôme and Opéra Garnier, Stark & Sons tailors is this year celebrating its 100th anniversary. A specialist in academic wear, Stark & Sons offers a wide range of bespoke and prêt-à-porter suits in the most beautiful fabrics, in which Scabal fabrics are of course included. Since 1910, three generations of tailors have worked in the luxurious fitting salons, where many famous men, including kings, princes, Bill Clinton, Nicholas Sarkozy and General Charles de Gaulle have been dressed to perfection. As the heir to this rich family tradition, Alain Stark has reigned here since 1970, driven by his own talent and pursuit of perfection. www.starkandsons.com 58

I

Bespoken

STYLISH ONLINE SHOPPING Scabal is proud to present six exclusive Diamond Chip ties that are only available online at www.scabal.com/ shop. The famous fabric consists of a Super 150’s wool (80 %) – into which diamond fragments have been blended – and pure silk (20 %). This extraordinary cloth is woven at Scabal’s own weavingmill in Huddersfield (UK), and is THE must-have this winter, available for just 180€ plus freight costs. With its luxurious fabric, the tie provides a rich and uplifting aspect to any suit, and can be knotted quite beautifully. Each tie is carefully packaged in a limitededition Diamond Chip hand-made box.

It is planned that in future, only certain accessories and other collector’s items will be sold online. www.scabal.com

American express, Brioni and Scabal’s treasure box

Brioni is proud to introduce American Express Platinum Card-holders to The Treasure Box, a prestigious fabric selection created by its long-standing partner Scabal.The Treasure Box collection is available in all European Brioni boutiques and offers 16 highquality Super 150’s wool fabrics weighing 230-300 grammess, all of which are designed by Scabal and produced in England. The collection was named Treasure Box because Scabal has made use of the latest techniques to incorporate platinum, 22-carat gold and 24-carat gold into the fabric – it’s the ultimate luxury in tailor-made menswear! www.scabal.com

YOUR FAVOURITE MAGAZINE, NOW ONLINE!

All previous editions of Bespoken can now be accessed online, with userfriendly features available that include zoom, search, browse, full screen, print and many more! www.bespoken.com

Scabal and Delvaux Women’S jackets and shirts

AND IT’S 12 points...for Scabal fabrics!

© Marc Ninghetto

For 54 years, the Eurovision Song Contest has been a huge European TV favourite, and is now viewed by more than 122 million people.

Young Belgian contestant Tom Dice has selected two blue fabrics from Scabal’s ‘Capri’ collection for his on-stage suits – the plain pure wool fabric was turned into a stunning suit by Scabal’s fabric customer LGD from Antwerp. This year, the Eurovision Song Contest was held in Oslo (Norway) and consisted of three live shows, broadcast on 25th, 27th and 29 th May. Thirty nine countries were represented in the Telenor Arena.

BEN AINSLIE IN BILAN

British sailor Ben Ainslie, triple Olympic-gold medallist, recently posed for renowned Swiss magazine Bilan.

Ainslie was pictured wearing a Scabal tuxedo and a Admiral’s Cup Competition 48 Black & Gold watch by Corum. www.benainslie.com

Wall Street style

www.eurovision.tv

On stage!

Earlier this year, the first Delvaux show was held at a magnificent private residence on Paris’s Avenue Foch.

For the presentation of its Winter 2010/2011 women’s accessories collection, Scabal dressed the models with made-to-measure jackets and shirts to perfectly accentuate the models’ shapely forms. Véronique Branquinho – one of the famous ‘Antwerp 6’ designers – chose 20 fabrics from Scabal collections ‘Flannel’, ‘Pegasus’, ‘Favorite’, ‘Donegal’, ‘Trend’, ‘Luxury Jackets’ and ‘Festival’. The result? Sexy and elegant. www.delvaux.com

Daniel Stuyven, leader of Flemish group Daan is one of Scabal’s brightest new lights. Well known thanks to his song Swedish Designer Drugs, he chose two suits in striking blue, from Scabal’s ‘Capri’ collection for a recent performance. www.daan.be

In Wall Street II: Money Never Sleeps, Oliver Stone's acclaimed sequel to his 1987 critical and box-office smash Wall Street, eagle-eyed viewers will be able to spot the amazing suits created using Scabal fabrics, with the wardrobe designers for Stone's film blending Lifestyle Wool & Cashmere 702410, Classics 701714, Classics 701727 and Classics 701760 to superb effect. For a closer look at the fabrics, go to Scabal's online catalogue at www.scabal.com www.wallstreetmoneyneversleeps.com Jérôme Stéfanski Bespoken

I

59

Spring-summer 2011 trends

a look on the bright side Men’s fashion is taking an upbeat view for 2011, with more confident styles and brighter summer colours – a trend that Scabal’s new collections of fabrics and ready-to-wear illustrate perfectly.

© F. Vanzieleghem and Seasons Paris

Scabal’s three main colour themes

60

I

Bespoken

FABRICS Suiting fabrics are always at the heart of Scabal’s products, and five new ranges have been introduced for the next Spring-Summer collection.

“Brighter colours are back,” says Nora Krämer of Scabal Fabric Design. “Light and mid-blues will be ever-present in 2011.”

Caravelle If you travel on business regularly, you’ll certainly appreciate this new lightweight, low-crease, wool and micro-fibre cloth. It’s 240g travel quality with plains and stripes in classic shades.

Heroic It’s back to basics with this 280g revival from the 1960s (when Scabal brought out the first-ever Super 100’s). No special finishes, no new effects, just plain good quality. The design of this bunch of 61 articles is more colourful too, with fancy checks, and strongly contrasting stripes in red, blue, yellow and dark brown, and a range of semi-plains.

Mirage This Super 130’s quality has now been upgraded to Super 140’s, and at 210g it is even lighter than before.

A hard-wearing summer fabric with a plain-weave construction presented in 31 articles, predominately beiges, greys and light blues.

Homer For the first time, Scabal has added the softness of mink. This luxurious 230g Super 150’s wool with a twill ground weave offers 34 articles in fancy checks, stripes and semiplains.

Eos To complete the suit innovations, Scabal has developed the Eos ‘Box Collection’ – the season’s exclusive luxury line. Blended with silk, this ultra-soft Super 180’s offers 16 articles in light fancy stripes of grey, light blue and beige, and a classic range of radiant mid and dark blues.

Jacket fabrics also feature strongly in the summer collection, reflecting the unmistakable trends towards more casual business attire and more stylish, flexible leisure wear.

Mosaic As in 2010, Mosaic contains three qualities – Super 130’s, Super 100’s and Cool Wool – but the new collection is brighter, fresher and more colourful. As the name implies, this line is all about fancy windowpane, Vichy and Glen checks, with high-contrast white-blue and black-blue designs.

St. Tropez A casual linen and cotton jacket line. The design is relaxed too, with strong windowpane and Vichy checks in a wide range of fancy shades, including pink and green. St. Tropez offers a range of different qualities mixing linen, denim, cotton, wool, silk and cashmere. Double-faced fabrics make it ideal for trendy soft jackets.

Plain fabrics Cashmere Cotton and Pure Cotton The 250g Cashmere quality provides natural shades of beige, brown and off-white. The Pure Cotton line has 3 qualities: a 220g satin weave in fancy shades of mint green, reds and light blue; a classical range in 260g; and a 300g collection with a wide range of colours including new dark green, red and dark brown.

Pure Linen A collection of three 100 per cent linen qualities. First, a very fashionable ‘delavé(used look) 250g line of 14 articles in orange, rose, red and blue. Second, a 260g line in classical shades. Thirdly, a heavy Irish Linen (200g on a traditional half-width 75cm) in a classical range of natural shades of beige, off-white, blue, black and grey.

CUTS & COLOURS The Scabal Spring-Summer 2011 ready-to-wear collection is inspired by three separate colour themes. Each one carries the selected palette through a range of suit or jacket designs with their complementary shirts and accessories.

Grey, blue and beige Firstly, the theme with the widest appeal will undoubtedly be the classy grey-sky blue and grey-beige selection.

It immediately takes us in two distinct directions – business and casual.

The business route is based solidly on wool suits in greys and blues, as classical as the mixed British summer sky. This is strong Scabal territory – timeless and elegant, in plains, stripes and checks.

The informal direction leads us to jackets, with a wider choice of materials such as linens and cottons. Checks predominate on ground shades of grey and blue, splashed with fresh whites and beiges.

Soft jackets appear throughout the 2011 collections after a successful first season – due in part to Scabal’s ability to personalize its attractive giacca camicia creations with a wide range of options, including under-collar, elbow patch and buttonhole features.

Pink and sky blue The second theme is a fresh, summery pink and sky-blue palette. More vibrant, more casual, the collection features jackets, soft jackets, shirts, ties, knitwear and scarves.

Playing with orange Scabal’s third direction is a semicasual beige and dark brown theme.

The main topic is mixing orange with suit and jacket ground shades of brown and beige, producing a warm, comfortable feel with splashes of intensity.

Both of these colour themes present double-faced designs for bomber-style jackets, accentuating the relaxed credentials of Scabal’s new summer collections.

Get knotted Women know instinctively how to wear scarves, and thankfully they’ve been educating their men. Instead of draping it like a sack over his shoulder or tucking it under his overcoat like a grandfather’s foulard, modern man is now knotting, twisting and looping his écharpe provocatively around his Bespoken

I

61

neck – often instead of a tie. Yes, man has finally realized that as a fashion statement and colourful accessory, the scarf cannot be beaten.

Staying slim “Last year the British were back and it looks like they’re here to stay for a while,” muses Olivier Vander Slock, Sales & Product Director at Scabal, on the

cuts we will see in 2011.

“But although the British style is classic, traditional, rather formal, our collections radiate summer colours and freshness.”

The slim (if not downright skinny) look stays with us, with short jackets and unpleated trousers (though if you look hard enough you may detect a discreet

re-apparition of pleats and wider shoulders on the far horizon).

“The slim look will be nicely presented again this year by the false three-button jacket,” affirms Olivier. “The wearer has three buttons but displays only two, thanks to the rolling lapel that covers the top button and gives a firm line down towards the waist – accentuating the slim, elegant look.”

© Scabal

Shoes, jacket and sleeves, shoulders – three crucial elements for the perfect look

SCABAL’S RECOMMENDATIONS Olivier Vander Slock offers advice on updating your own style.

Bespoken: What should the modern gentleman be wearing next summer?

Olivier Vander Slock: Light fabrics, such as flax or cotton, are very much la mode because of their relaxed feel. At the same time, 100 per cent wool is returning because ruffled clothing is not to everyone’s taste – bright colours, such as red and orange, will also be making their presence felt.

What are the sartorial errors that are most common nowadays?

To be fair, such ‘errors’ are almost nonexistent now – one can have playful combinations, and nobody will criticize if you wear a suit jacket with jeans or corduroy. On the other hand, a too broad jacket does not work, as is also true for trousers that are too short, too long or too wide. Have no fear – any good tailor will help you to avoid such slip-ups.

The jacket is an essential part of the well-tailored man. What do you consider to be the ideal jacket?

62

I

Bespoken

The best jacket is always the one in which you feel comfortable and which gives you an elegant outline. Even if current fashion supports adjusted shoulders, care should always be taken that the shoulders are not too narrow nor broad. Here, made-to-measure is important because it can correct any problems with fitting shoulders.

One of the elementary rules is to ensure that the jacket hangs well on its wearer – men who walk ramrod should wear a jacket without a back that is too long and, on the other hand, the jacket back must be longer to correspond to its front for people who are more stooped. An error that is still made very often and yet is very easy to correct is that of fastening all the buttons on a jacket that has two or three buttonholes – the bottom button must always remain open! In addition to being more elegant, this emphasizes the clothing’s proportions.

With or without a tie?

I am personally in favour of the tie, because it refines the look, especially when matched with a good pocket handkerchief.

However, care must be taken to choose the

correct width of tie, which should follow the same rules that apply to the jacket’s lapel. In general, the width of lapels and ties are narrow, but recently the tendency has been once again reversed with certain great sartorial artists – Tom Ford, for example, has recently begun making ties very wide once more. The standard width of a tie is 7.5cm at its base point, whereas ten years ago, it was 9.5cm. Ford now produces them at 11cm in width.

Of course, each designer has his own interpretation.

And what type of shoes should be worn?

It does not matter what you are wearing, your shoes must always be neat. In summer, one can combine a cotton suit with tennis shoes, so long as they are tasteful. Leather or suede shoes are always elegant, never exaggerated, and why not choose blue or grey? Previously, brown shoes were worn only with grey suits, never with blue – today, it is allowed, but with the proviso that such shoes match the colour of the tie, the pocket handkerchief and the belt.

Nigel Bishop

THE ICON REINVENTED. Look at the breathtaking design, the lightweight aluminium bodywork, the amazing contemporary interior and all the innovative technology.

The XJ is the new standard in luxury and durability. A beautiful and exciting car that will convince you in seconds.

From 造79,800 inc. VAT.

J A G U A R. B E

Average consumption Jaguar XJ:

7,0-12,1 L/100 L KM. CO2: 184-289 G/KM. Environmental information (RD 19/03/04): www.jaguar.be. Model shown features optional equipment. Give way to safety.

Bespoken

I

63

SCABAL WORLDWIDE viSit SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At 12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London, pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com or tHe SCABAL CornerS in Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, 61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, scabal.printemps@scabal.com KAdeWe, 1St fLoor, tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin, pHone +49-30-219 18 530, ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.de OBERPOLLINGER, NEUHAUSER STRASSE 18, 80331 Munich, GERMANY phone +49-89-290 240 40, dagmar.dueh@scabal.de CLOTH

GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES

EUROPE SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com AUSTRIA +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at FRANCE +33-1-42 33 08 93 scabal_france@scabal.com +33. 1.42.43.58.44 FRANCE +33 6.15.33.03.82 ars.imperial@hotmail.fr +33 6.07.80.02.50 (fabrics) info@conceptfbo.it GERMANY +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de GREAT BRITAIN +44-207-734 1867 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com GREECE +30-210-67 27 431 dcon@otenet.gr +30-210-3618 668 elli@stamataki.gr ITALY +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com

CYPRUS +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com POLAND +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl PORTUGAL +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt ROMANIA +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro RUSSIA – UkrainE +7-495-660-7163 ag@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2010 sol@solstudio.RU SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com +34-93 726 00 99 unikman@unikman.es SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 mehmet.gozen@scabalkanyon.com AMERICAs ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar

MEXICO +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx U.S.A. +1-212-4756 666 fabricczar@aol.com VENEZUELA +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS– MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-6336 0070 HeeFabricAgencies@Hee.sg HONG KONG +852-25-433 694 INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net IRAN +98 55611469-55614137 tehranivahid@hotmail.com JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp

BRAZIL +55-11-362 041 044 erlutecidos@sti.com.br

KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com

CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com

NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz

CHILe +56-2-717 39 22 c.rubio@holmes.cl

SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-140-375 27 16 faris@fmmercie.com

COLOMBIA +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@etb.net DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do

south korea +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com SYRIA + 963 - 11 2233986 + 963 - 11 2222784 akkad-sons@mail.sy

NEXT ISSUE: FEBRUARY 2011

BACK TO BASICS

© Scabal

The Spring-Summer edition of Bespoken will plunge you into the heart of fabrics, to pay tribute to the natural fibres that go into the very noblest of cloths. Because without a great fabric, it is impossible to create a great suit. So, It’s back to fabrics, back to basics.

Reserve your copy, which will be delivered to your home, at www.bespoken.com 64

I

Bespoken

this seventh edition of bespoken is presented to you with the compliments of:

Request your next copy of Scabal’s magazine Bespoken at Bespoken.com