BESPOKEN 14 English

Spring-Summer 2014 14th edition

SPRING-SUMMER

2014 TRENDS A SCABAL INITIATIVE TO PROMOTE A TAILOR-MADE LIFESTYLE

White Shadow

Art Luxury & Investment

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We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact : LEO bvba, Erik De Ridder edr@eventbox.be or +32 (0)486 13 13 13 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor WILFRIED REDANT Publisher LEO bvba Project Coordinator JP TALBOT Styling SYLVAIN GADEYNE Graphic Design BERT WAGEMANS Writers JAMES DREW JACQUES LEGROS JOANNA PAYS ANJA VAN DEN BORGHT JP TALBOT DAVE LACKIE SIMON CROMPTON Proofreading JAMES DREW & COLIN MOORS ReadRight.be

Photographers KRIS DE SMEDT SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 98 49 www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback ?

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E D I TOR I AL C O MMEN T

A HISTORY OF VALUES AND RESPECT

D

ear reader,

While working on the regular update of our corporate strategy, certain fundamental questions always arise. Where is our world going? Where is luxury consumption going? What are the upcoming trends? It is very hard, these days, to find the answers to these questions.

Two things seem to provide common ground, however – change and uncertainty are becoming the norm. With such uncertainty, values are the only substance that will hold things together.

Values have always been very important to Scabal, and this is not just a marketing phrase.

One of the values that we would like to underline in this particular issue is that of ‘Respect’.

Respectfulness is a character trait that typifies the ‘Gentleman’, one of the main themes of this 14th issue of Bespoken. Not only does he respect others, he also certainly respects himself. This shows in his clothing, and the way he adapts his attire to his personality and physical shape. Our new creative director has dedicated some very special attention to ‘the fit’, and will explain its theoretical background.

To some, the concept of ‘The Gentleman’– and we do feel that it is a concept – is outdated and old. On the contrary, we believe that the gentleman is back, and that this world of uncertainty and constant change requires men that defend values and have a style to go with it.

As part of his general attitude, the gentleman is also respectful of the environment. What is more ecological than a natural fibre? Obviously natural wool, silk and cashmere are very prominent in the Scabal Fabric collection, but linen has also become an increasingly important item of choice. We will talk about its origins, history and particularities.

Looking ahead, there are reasons to be optimistic. Even though things are certainly not moving forward as rapidly as they should, trend researchers are detecting a greater common awareness of global challenges. Thankfully, the luxury industry has embraced this feeling.

Sustainability is the new luxury! Some of the luxury car models that are being introduced by leading brands are a proof of this latest paradigm.

After 75 years in the business – yes, Scabal is proud to celebrate three quarters of a century in the trade – we can certainly say that our business model is sustainable, and we intend to continue this way.

As always, we wish you very pleasant and ‘gentlemanly’ reading, Peter & Gregor Thissen

Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper.

© Scabal

‘THE GENTLEMAN DOES NOT ONLY RESPECT OTHERS, HE ALSO CERTAINLY RESPECTS HIMSELF’

Scabal Executive Chairman Gregor Thissen and his father Honorary Chairman J. Peter Thissen YEARS

Gregor Thissen, Scabal Executive Chairman

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com 3

75 SCABAL I N F I GUR E S

A world of men and bespoken creativity

Scabal celebrated its 75th anniversary last year.

Here are some of the highlights of its extraordinary history.

By Wilfried Redant THE 1930’S

1938: German entrepreneur Otto Hertz (1903 – 1991) starts his business in Brussels, Belgium.

THE 1950’S

1964: At the traditional wool sale in Australia, a record is set for the purchase price of a bale of wool that was three times the previous price. Scabal obtained full ownership of this unique lot and gave the collection the name ‘Ultimus’, the 1953: Scabal buys Wainshiell, whose ori- most expensive cloth in the world.” gins date back to 1807 and who had by 1830 established an excellent reputation in Warwick Street, the centre of woollen merchanting in the West End of London.

From 1907 they were registered on Savile Row and Scabal have maintained a presence there ever since.

1950: A special ‘Export’ department was created at Scabal Headquarters to follow up the increasing demand for fabrics in several European countries.

Scabal invents the famous fabric bunches and introduces the Superlana collection.

THE 1940’S

THE 1970’S

In a difficult after-war climate, the Scabal brand and company name - Société Commerciale Anglo Belgo Allemande Luxembourgeoise - is officially launched on the 18th of June 1946.

1970: J.-Peter Thissen, Otto Hertz’s most valued associate, is elected to manage the company.

1971: Scabal commissions famous painter Salvador Dali to imagine what 1949: Opening of a Scabal office on Hed- 1958: Scabal, pioneers in the digital field, will be men’s fashion in the 21st century. don Street in London, while extending introduce IBM computers in a newly Dali produces 12 exclusive paintings presence on the German market thanks built and larger office (read more on for Scabal that are still owned by the to the acquisition of the Feintuch and pages 24-25). company.

Westtuch companies.

THE 1960’S 1972: Scabal opens a showroom on 1960: Scabal launches its “International Savile Row, London and introduces its conferences” in Knokke Le Zoute in fabrics range in the US. Belgium.

Scabal provides fabrics for several films 1962: First steps are made into the Japa- made in USA. A close and longstanding nese market. In 1966 Scabal introduces relationship thus commences with the its fabrics in Japan in collaboration with Hollywood film industry and Broadway, Itochu, who has remained our privileged for whom Scabal becomes a privileged fabrics provider. Scabal has notably partner till today.

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of Scabal fabrics. Exclusive cars such as Bentleys and Rolls Royce, as well as yachts, appear on window displays. Sensation, Nobility and Velours are only a few of the remarkable bunches that appeared during this flamboyant period in fashion history. provided fabrics for The Godfather, Casino, Men in Black, The Aviator and many more. In London, Scabal begins a close collaboration with theatres in the West End.

standards of quality and excellence and will later be followed by finer and finer wools that were previously thought to be beyond technology: Super 180’s and Super 200’s.

Son of Mr. Peter Thissen, Gregor Thissen joins the company.

1982: The Scabal descriptive labels on the fabrics are now printed. Up till then all had been hand written.

1989: Scabal builds its new warehouse of over 6000 m2 near the heart of Brussels.

Several accessories are made under Scabal acquires the Tailor Hoff factory the name “Scarab” to complement the at Saarbrücken, on the Franco-German fabrics range. In the eighties sweaters, border, and starts to develop its ‘madeshirts, belts, and many more items were to-measure’ system. added under the same name.

1973: Scabal acquires the Bower Roebuck fabrics mill in Huddersfield, Yorkshire.

The firm has produced exquisite fabrics since 1899, when Messrs Bower and Roebuck registered the company and renamed the mill as Glendale Mills.

1974: Scabal launches its first ready-towear range and supports it with the first advertising campaigns.

Scabal pioneered a finer wool than the standard “Super 100’s”. Scabal’s own mill in Yorkshire was the first company to manufacture cloth classified as Super 120’s - approximately one micron finer than the first Super 100’s - and called it “Jewel”.

THE 1980’S Leather and velvet packaging are used for luxurious bunches. Special boxes are made to introduce the top range

THE 1990’S

1994: Scabal launches a full range of accessories and achieves another breakthrough in textile technology by producing the lightest cashmere suiting ever made. “Fascination” is the result of a very close co-operation between spinners and weavers, with textile engineers having to adjust their machinery to spin cashmere at less than 15 microns.

1991: Scabal converts 12 Savile Row, 1997: Scabal creates Initials: a Super London into a flagship store carrying all 150’s fabric can be woven with the initials of yourself or a loved one in the clothing, fabrics and accessories. pinstripe.

The quest for ever finer wools is continued by being the first to launch a “Super 1999: Scabal launches its “Sartoriale” 150’s” under the bunch name “Golden line, a handmade product for the most Carat” using 15.3 micron wool. This demanding suit wearer. Later this line prestigious cloth is top of the line, with will be renamed N°12, the house number the weaving process exclusively at Sca- of the Scabal store on Savile Row in bal’s mill. These are now international London.

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THE 2000’S 2000: A partner store and shop-in-shop is opened in Turkey.

Scabal launches the first Dali fabrics collection in honour of the 12 paintings Dali had made in 1971, with his vision on men and fashion in the 21st century. To pay homage to Dali’s vision, Scabal have recreated fabrics for six of the works of art which are presented in a book and were available in a strictly limited quantity. To illustrate his future looks, historic fashion plates were put next to his most daring paintings.

2005: Scabal launches a comprehensive, unique online fabrics catalogue with photos of over 5,000 fabrics, including extensive search functionalities.

2006: Gregor Thissen becomes Scabal Co-CEO. From here onwards, father and son work together on a daily basis, in both a family and international spirit.

Scabal launches Yangir for suits, a fabric softer and finer than cashmere named after a wild, rare mountain goat which inhabits the Mongolian high mountains and is called “the golden fleece” by specialists.

In the summer Scabal launches Summit.

Highly skilled craftsmen have spun and woven this exceptional cloth and have called it themselves their lifetime achievement.

2001: Scabal launches the Diamond Chip range, a most innovative way to interpret the most exclusive collection. From there on more precious stones and metals such as gold, platinum and lapis lazuli are used to launch exquisite ranges gathered in a Treasure Box.

Scabal pushes the boundaries once more by introducing the possibility to weave a complete text into the stripe of a Super 180’s and cashmere cloth.

2007: Scabal launches its international magazine Bespoken.

In collaboration with London College of Fashion and Mr. Alan Cannon-Jones, its Director, the drawings that Dali made 2003: Scabal strenghtens its presence in in the seventies for Scabal come to life.

France by opening a shop-in-shop in the Twenty years after the master’s death they are reproduced by students in life famous Printemps department store. size outfits respecting the finest tailoring After incorporating both gold and dia- traditions. monds in its cloths, Scabal introduces Lapis Lazuli, an ancient stone that has 2010: Treasure Box was launched always appealed to man’s imagination. to mark the innovation of Scabal to include precious stones into fabrics. At 2004: In the continuous quest for softer and the same time Platinum was added in more luxurious fabric, Scabal has combined the range to meet the growing demand the softest wool in Super 200’s with Vicuna of the luxurious fabrics with exceptional look and feel. to create a sensational quality “The Star”.

2011: Scabal adopts a new logo, a mix between the historical lion monogram and the modern logo used for the clothing line, also known as finished products.

An iPad app is launched to read the Bespoken magazine digitally.

Scabal produces the most exclusive diamond cufflinks to celebrate 10 years of the Diamond Chip fabrics range.

A first monobrand store is opened in Germany, the chosen city is Frankfurt.

2012: Bespoken celebrates its 10th edition and is also published in Russian and Chinese.

2013: Opening of a flagship store in Brussels, Belgium, as well as a new store in Beijing, China.

Scabal launches the Peace Fund using the Private Line cloth to bring a message of peace and support to Doctors Without Borders.

Scabal shoes and bags ranges are born.

New headquarters are built in Brussels to modernize Scabal’s administrative and sales services.

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8

I NT ERVIEW

THE GENTLEMAN

Actor Simon Baker is one of Hollywood’s best-dressed leading men…and one of television’s most private actors. Here, The Mentalist star agrees to a rare interview and makes a case for the return of gentlemanly behavior.

By Dave Lackie

To start, you’ve been described as TV’s true gentleman. How do you respond to that compliment?

Simon Baker: Being a gentleman is an interesting concept. Most people think of it in a particularly old-fashioned way.

But I think a gentleman is a timeless concept. It used to be that you were born into being a gentleman, but these days you can become a gentleman. For me, it’s aspirational to be a gentleman. As a child, I was brought up being taught respect, manners, courtesy, humility and that was the way you approached life, what you aspired to be. I think that now the idea of fashion and masculinity successfully meld together. It’s acceptable to be masculine, independent, and strong, and at the same time to be socially aware of the way you carry yourself, the way you appear, your sense of style, your own sense of being.

I think we have come a long way in that regard. Now we have what can be referred to as the modern gentleman, someone that is aware of how they present themselves.

Are good manners a thing of the past?

What’s the most important thing you’ve learned in your career?

S.B.: I feel chivalry is a little lost these days. If you accidentally cut someone off in Los Angeles, you find someone hanging out the window swearing at you. But if you offer to help someone, it’s remarkable the reaction you get.

It’s so not expected. That said good manners are very important to me.

S.B.: The biggest lesson I’ve learned in Hollywood is fame is fleeting. I’ve been in this business long enough to know that all of this is fleeting. What’s important is that I’m comfortable with myself – that I’ve been straightforward and honest with everyone. My family is my focus and if it ends tomorrow, there are plenty of other things I’d like to pursue that the world doesn’t have to know about.

What gentlemen do you most admire?

S.R.: I admire how actors like Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart dealt with press and their image. It was a simpler time back then and actors could present an image of ease, elegance and grace. What I particularly liked about Jimmy is that he felt authentic all the time. You always felt that he was being true to himself.

That’s something I really appreciate. But I’d don’t fall for nostalgia. I never try to mold myself after anyone.

Tell us about your style on The Mentalist.

S.B.: The three-piece suit look that I wear on the show is something I came up with myself. My character, Patrick Jane, is a con man who practices sleight of hand. So I thought the idea of wearing a waistcoat lent to that nicely. I took the idea from a Charlie Chaplin character. The costume 9

‘BEING A GENTLEMAN IS A TIMELESS CONCEPT. IT USED TO BE THAT YOU WERE BORN INTO BEING A GENTLEMAN, BUT THESE DAYS YOU CAN BECOME A GENTLEMAN.’

© Givenchy

Simon Baker

designer on the show has all the suits made.

Tell us about your personal style.

S.B.: I appreciate beautiful things. I like a well-cut suit. I like things that look good to my eye. But I’m not a slave to it. I can appreciate the beauty of an Apple iPhone as much as a beautifully crafted pair of shoes. Of course, if I find a dress shirt that fits me well, I’ll buy a couple at once. I like to be efficient. I like classic things with a healthy dose of rebelliousness and audacity. I like to look presentable. There’s a sense of self-pride when you dress well. A man should wear his clothes, the clothes shouldn’t wear the man. He should find clothes that underlie the essence of who he is.

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Who are your film icons?

What was your worst fashion mistake?

S.B.: Marcello Mastroianni was the actor I most admired growing up. The guy was just so cool – even when he was being humiliated in a movie. Jean-Paul Belmondo is also innately cool. I looked to European actors for inspiration. I think part of the appeal here was an Australian lad watching a foreign film with subtitles.

S.B.: The worst fashion mistakes are always made out of nostalgia. I remember in 1991, I had landed some regular acting work and was making good money. There was this black Quicksilver leather jacket with the logo across the entire back that I spotted when I was 17. It looked so cool to me then. So I decided to buy it. When I got home, I was so excited to show my wife. She took one look at it and said, “What is that?” I never wore it.

What do you like to do when you aren’t working?

S.B.: When I’m not working (which is rare these days), I love to spend time with my family. My kids love to play tennis. And my youngest son is into making stuff so we spend a lot of time in the garage taking apart things. I love it.

What advice would you give guys today?

S.B.: The most important lesson I’ve learned so far in life is to be patient. I kind of feel like I spent most of my 20s being impatient.

Now that I’m in my 40s, I’m more accepting of the quiet times. It’s okay to be patient.

DRESSING WITH PERSONALITY It doesn’t do to look perfect. To borrow from Hardy Amies, it is good to look as if you have forgotten all about your clothes. Even if you have chosen them with care.

Simon Baker in his role as The Mentalist is a perfect example. He has a distinct style, instantly identifiable in his trademark three-piece suit and open collar. In the waistcoat on its own, particularly, he stands out from all around him without appearing to make any effort to do so. Style is subtle.

So how does one replicate that subtle air? Don’t just wear a waistcoat, obviously. It is about the attitude that the clothes present, rather than the clothes themselves.

For example, a dark tie and white linen handkerchief will always be correct. But it is also a touch formal and hard to harness as an expression of personality. Try mixing up the materials or textures. A wool handkerchief, for example – it has the same matte texture as the linen, and therefore compliments it in the same way, but has none of the formality. Usually such hanks work best in wool/silk mixes, to retain a little bit of body and lustre.

Mix up patterns too, always making sure to keep adjacent ones in radically different sizes. And add a little unexpected colour, always dark to start with – dark purple, deep green, burnt oranges, all so much easier to work in than primary colours.

In the end, it is about finding a language with which to express yourself. Just try and whisper rather than shout.

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S C ABAL SHOP S

SPREADING THE WORLD Thanks to additional locations, the spirit, style and unequalled quality of Savile Row are now accessible in other cities – the entire range of 5,000 fabrics, Made-To-Measure suits, N°12 and accessories are available to a wider audience.

By James Drew

S

BEIJING

cabal is proud to announce the opening of its first store in China. Located in the China World Mall in the Chaoyang District, Beijing, it offers all Scabal’s customary lines, fabrics and accessories. Based on the store concept that was recently launched for the new flagship store in Brussels, it is a comfortable and luxurious store that has been built to cater for the most demanding suit wearer.

and restaurant strips. Store manager Douglas Zhu told Bespoken: “I joined Scabal’s retail team in November 2011, when Scabal first indicated that it wanted to develop the China market – a potentially huge future market. I very much appreciate Mr. Thissen giving me the opportunity to join Scabal’s programme.”

PARIS

The Scabal Made-To-Measure store in Paris is set to move from Square de l’Opera to the prestigious Avenue George V. To provide customers with only the finest service and attention The store is located in Chaoyang which to detail, the store is accessible by is home to the majority of Beijing’s appointment only. Together with its many foreign embassies, the well-known presence at Le Bon Marché and through Sanlitun bar street, as well as Beijing’s our multi-brand resellers, Scabal is growing central business district. The now sure that Paris and its visitors can Olympic Green, built for the 2008 Sum- benefit from Scabal’s apparel to the mer Olympics, is also in Chaoyang, and fullest. Allow Laurent and Guillaume the area is also home to Silk Street, and to guide you and provide style advice many other market areas, shopping malls, with an exquisite French touch.

China World Mall No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue Chaoyang District, Beijing, P.R.China +86–10–59 611 105 scabal.store@scabalchina.com

LONDON

And, last but not least, Scabal is renovating its world-renowned Savile Row flagship store according to its latest shop concept. The address is unique – it is the playground of only the world’s finest tailors, and Scabal is proud to have a store that offers its entire range in a sophisticated but comfortable setting, with Ricky Sahota, store manager, able to tailor you to perfection with his many years of experience. Scabal has always been historically based in Savile Row, the famous street in London where bespoke tailoring first saw the light of day. Right in the heart of the city of London, Scabal dresses men of exceptional reputation.

As Retail Sales Manager Ricky Sahota told Bespoken last winter: “The renovation started on 25 November 2013 and we will be re-opening early February – the whole team is very excited!”

All stores: www.scabal.com/stores

19, Avenue George V 75008 Paris, France

12, Savile Row W1S 3PQ London, United Kingdom

+33–1–42 66 93 59 shopparis@scabal.com

+44–20–77 34 89 63 shoplondon@scabal.com 13

M R. VOY A GE R

Soft jacket, Chinos, Shirt, Shoes, Bag, Socks and Belt: Scabal

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FABRIC N°801943 AND MR. VOYAGER

Always cheerful and rarely seen without a smile, Mr. Voyager doesn’t like the grass to grow under his feet. A man of many parts, his entrepreneurial zeal is matched only by his stamina for a fulfilling social life. It’s often difficult to know where work ends and leisure time begins with this radiant and charming fellow. Central to his summertime wardrobe is fabric n° 801943, a pure linen cloth with an indigo ground shade and a clever double windowpane overcheck.

The natural finish and feel of this St. Tropez cloth are so well suited to the soft make of the slim-fitting jacket. The perfect complement is a pair of neat chinos. With his smart overnight bag, Mr. Voyager is all set to charm whoever he meets next.

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M R. VOY A GE R : H I S A CC E SSO R I E S

CASUAL SUMMERTIME

ACCESSORIES

Whether at home or on the road, Mr. Voyager appreciates the practicality of his chosen accessories - according to his own image and tastes, they represent a gentleman of “savoir-faire� and a businessman who knows how to enjoy the finer things in life.

Bag: Weekender briefcase in ultra-soft calfskin. Two-tone colour with contrast stitching. Adjustable shoulder strap with leather finish.

Shoes: Dynamic Derbies made of soft suede calf leather. Rubber sole for extreme lightness.

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Belts: Belts in French calfskin with brass buckle. Elk printed with stitching and edges in white contrast.

Polo: Polo shirt in fine crĂŞpe made from pure cotton Pima Peruvian dyed yarn.

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MR. VOYAGE R : H I S F A V OUR I T E D EST I N AT I O N

THE EVER CHANGING CITY During his frequent travels around the world, the Qatari capital of Doha has become Mr Voyager’s favourite city destination. In constant evolution, since his first visit a decade ago, Doha’s skyline has changed almost beyond recognition. Besides the new surprises that await him on each visit and its fascinating architecture, it is the city’s startling contrast between modernity and mystical that Mr Voyager finds so attractive.

By Joanna Pays Aspire Tower

R

ising out of the desert, on the coast of the Persian Gulf, Doha’s origins began centuries ago as a pearl fishing and trading centre.

Moored along the Cornish, Doha’s shoreline promenade, traditional Dhow boats as used by the pearl fishermen can still be found. The Dhows, in their reincarnation as floating restaurants, now make the ideal vantage point for admiring the mirage-like spectacle of Doha’s skyline reflected in the sea.

Besides billion dollar commercial and residential real estate ventures, Qatar’s energy revenues have been invested in

Souk Waqif

futuristic infrastructure projects. The Qatar Foundation has been spearheading the country’s drive to position itself as more than just a carbon-based economy, but as a major international player in education, sports excellence and the arts. Amongst these impressive initiatives is Doha Education City, a vast complex of educational institutions, including campuses of world leading universities.

being Doha Sports City, known as the Aspire Zone. Constructed prior to the 2006 Asian World Games, the Aspire Zone will again take centre stage in 2022, when it plays host to the FIFA World Cup. As a keen sportman, Mr Voyager appreciates Doha’s range of other state-of-the-art sporting venues such its championship level golf club, the Al Shaqab equestrian centre and the international motor-racing circuit. When time permits, Mr Voyager heads beyond WORLD CLASS the outskirts of the city in a 4-wheel SPORTING FACILITIES drive vehicle for an adrenaline-fuelled The Qatar Foundation has also been pro- adventure across the desert. moting the construction of championship level sporting facilities, the most visible Exotic and fascinating, Doha is a city of contrasts - from its deserts and palm trees, to shimmering skyscrapers. The city combines the most ambitious of architectural design with gracious oriental forms and labyrinth-like souks, where the sound of call to prayer echoes across the air. However of all of Doha’s wonders, it is the Aspire Tower that resonates the most with Mr. Voyager. A 300 metre torch-like structure, topped by a massive flame-shaped cauldron, its avant-gardiste architect Hadi Simaan describes the building as “a celebration of earth and sky”. From the tower’s observation desk with its 360 degree views over the city, the sea and the desert, Mr Voyager can only agree.

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White Shadow

Art Luxury & Investment presents

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MR. VOYAGE R : H I S W A TCH

OCEAN WATCH Mr. Voyager likes to vary the watch he wears depending on the occasion, or even his mood. He is particularly fond of one of the timepieces in his collection. Practical and resistant, it has accompanied him to the four corners of the world…and its oceans.

T

he Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT GoodPlanet is a very special watch for Mr. Voyager. Naturally, he appreciates it’s technological performance, as the descendant of the first true diving watch, created in 1932. Moreover, this wristwatch serves as a tribute to GoodPlanet Foundation and the work it does for the environment and underwater ecosystems. Mr. Voyager first discovered the Foundation when he was in Shanghai, during the screening of the Planet Ocean documentary by Yann Arthus-Bertrand and Michael Pitiot. These two French film makers and Swiss watchmaker OMEGA were making a stop in the city, as part of their world tour to bring ecology to the forefront of public awareness and encourage people to take action.

© Hugues Vitry

By JP Talbot

The film, which can be viewed for free on the internet, was made in the most extreme geographical locations.

Its objective is to advocate a greater respect for the world we live in. Since its premiere in June 2012, Planet Ocean has been presented to enthusiastic audiences in major cities around the world.

was designed with adventurers in mind and is water resistant to 60 bar (600 metres/2000 feet).

The timepiece features a bold blue lacquered dial with applied indexes. The bright orange GMT scale on the bezel ring and central GMT hand make it possible to track two separate time zones, ideal for Mr. Voyager who enjoys explorSEPARATE TIME ZONES ing the planet’s oceans, lakes and rivers The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M at first-hand. The caseback, engraved GMT GoodPlanet is clearly inspired with “GoodPlanet Foundation”, features by the diverse colours of the ocean, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and is available with a classic stainless making it possible to see the Co-Axial steel bracelet or a sporty blue rubber calibre 8605 mechanization within. strap. Like all of OMEGA’s Seamaster Planet Ocean timepieces, this model OMEGA has committed a portion of the proceeds from this model to fully funding a project for preserving the mangroves and seagrasses in south-east Asia. This project includes the education of the local population about the conservation of these important natural resources that are such a critical part of a balanced eco-system. www.goodplanet.org www.omegawatches.com 21

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MR. VOYAGE R : H I S C A R

POWER TO THE GREEN STATUS

PORSCHE CAYENNE HYBRID S 2013 To respond to his cravings elsewhere, both for work and relaxation, Mr. Voyager has decided to combine what is useful and pleasant with the eco-friendly. He has opted for the new Porsche Cayenne Hybrid S 2013, the perfect vehicle to go beam a legendary broad smile in the environs of Saint-Tropez, for example ...

By Jacques Legros

S

eeking new impetus, top-of-the-range SUV manufacturers have decided to gamble on hybrid technology, a movement that Porsche also adheres to with the launch of the Cayenne Hybrid S 2013.

Far from the previous restyling, this time Porsche has spared no stylistic effort and has refined the profile of the new model to obtain a silhouette that is simultaneously both more fluid and sharp, reminiscent of the 911 or of the Panamera. With a muscular bonnet, the rear wings are not to be outdone; the greatest novelty arising from the distinctive rear view with clustered light modules and a completely redesigned tailgate. Even if it seems smaller than the first generation, the new Cayenne has however been enlarged in three dimensions including an increased-volume luggage compartment. In addition, it is lighter, through the use

of lightweight materials. This benefits the hybrid version, which is made heavier by the batteries. The interior is also restyled with a central console inherited from the Panamera, while the space is structured following the extended powerful lines recalling the body design. Finally, for an even more sporty feel, the ‘cockpit’ design better envelops the driver, who will also appreciate the new sports wheel.

Another important innovation is that the hybrid version operates a V6 of 333 hp in tandem with 228 V batteries capable of providing an additional 47 hp. This electricity will be of great value and a source of economy, especially in urban areas. By contrast, in requesting the two sources of energy via the kick-down, Mr. Voyager will benefit from only 20 hp less acceleration than that with the Cayenne S V8 petrol version.

Consequently there will be accelerations worthy of its S acronym, but without having to draw on the mechanical ...

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IT SPEC I A L

NEW-LOOK WEBSITE

As is always the case when the New Year arrives, Scabal has not forgotten its endless batch of good resolutions. But the brand has not simply rested on its good intentions: after several months of preparation, it has now launched its completely redesigned website, and this is the occasion to remember that the brand has always been among the trend-setters in the IT sector…

By Jacques Legros

A

lthought very respective of its history GLOBAL EVOLUTION R A H B E R T O U N E S Q U E visual communication aux Briques 56, 1000 Bruxelles t +32 498 59 36 57 info@sarahbertounesque.be www.sarahbertounesque.be andS Aapproach to a traditional Quai product, Thanks to its management’s visionary spirit, Scabal underScabal has always been open to new stood the complete relevance of investing in computor science. technology. But let us return to the Its IT service has never ceased to develop, following in the prehistory of IT…it was in 1958 that wake of global computing developments. The first central the world discovered the ‘miracles’ of computor was joined by a second – a rare occurrence for a company of this size – then came the Windows generation. computer science.

Although the customized mainframe system met expectations, Among the forefathers in Belgium, Scabal was one of the need for external interactions and network technologies the first companies to obtain one of the first computors led Scabal to move to a more flexible standard system. flown in from across the Atlantic. This was in effect a central computer (mainframe) bearing the logo IBM, ADDED VALUE which required 30 m² space and provided a laughable True to its image as a computing pioneer, already back in 2000 performance compared with current facilities.

Scabal set its sights on SAP, a powerful ERP system with a 24

multitude of possible combinations and more customization and integration possibilities. As claimed in the saying “it’s not the technology that matters, but what you do with it”, and today this system can above all support new developments and projects with high added value. And all this, while eliminating to the highest degree internal operational needs, with a particular concern for transparency.

MORE ATTRACTIVE AND AESTHETIC

The visible interface of this hidden computing facet of Scabal, its website (www.scabal.com) has been treated as we have mentioned to a facelift. On the site, new technologies have been utilised to give Scabal an original and far more attractive and aesthetic image. You will also find the huge catalogue with its 5,000 fabrics launched in 2005. Its extended search possibilities and easy ordering for Business customers remain SERVICE PROVIDER unique in the fabrics trade up to today. In addition, Scabal Since the 1950’s, the biggest change has been that now the continues to be present on the social networks (cf. frame). In whole of society is connected. IT now affects all departments, short, a New Year which for Scabal already means increased and is no longer the unique preserve of the accounting visibility... department. The IT department has in fact become the service provider for those who manage the needs of the company, from the purchase of raw materials to billing, order processing and production, and from marketing to human resources.

REAL TIME

A characteristic that is specific to Scabal – the company has pushed the SAP system and its various modules to their limits, which is inherent not only to the complexity of Scabal’s projects and products, but also to their willingness to work as much as possible in real time. Each incoming order is immediately processed and integrated into the flow up until delivery and invoicing. This is a feat that once again multiplies their flexibility and performance. Without this powerful system Scabal could not carefully manage its wide range of 5,000 fabrics or its incredible range of options for a bespoke suit (embroidery, types of linings, buttons), which translates into endless combinations and therefore a 100% personalised suit of unparalleled quality.

FOLLOW SCABAL ON THE SOCIAL NETWORKS: www.facebook.com/scabal www.twitter.com/scabal www.youtube.com/scabalfashion www.vimeo.com/scabal www.pinterest.com/scabal www.foursquare.com/scabal www.linkedin.com/company/scabal www.google.com/+scabal www.instagram.com/scabal

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SCABAL C L OTH TR E N DS

SPRING-SUMMER

2014 CLOTHS

Technical expertise driven by contemporary creativity has produced an outstanding cloth collection for Spring-Summer 2014. From highly desirable entry-level suitings to the most luxurious and refined specialist qualities, Scabal’s discerning clientele will find much to delight them in the new season’s selections.

By Wilfried Redant

CAPRI 501081-501121

LONDONER 752641-752690

the cloth has an ideal weight. The weave construction gives nice fall, drape and a Colourful as a rainbow, the Capri shows This collection is made for real metropol- soft, elegant sheen. all shades you may wish for, including itan business men. Londoner presents the new fashionable shades flashy lime, a sophisticated Super 140’s cloth made ST. TROPEZ coral-red, turquoise, steel blue, dress in England with a light weight of 250g.

801921-801945 blue, berry, dark violet and sedge green, St. Tropez presents a big range of pure grey melange and bright navy.

Elegant, attractive window-pane checks linens, pure cottons as well as cool as well as soft pastel stripes introduce summer blends.

The fresh cool wool in a solid plain the collection of 50 articles. weave construction offers dependability With its comfortable wearing properties and variety and weighs 260g.

The range follows elegant stripes on these natural fibres are really essentials bright mid blue, grey, navy or brown for the hot summer season. The colour HEROIC ground weave and ends up with formal palette contains pastel shades as soft 703551-703621 blue, mint-green and light grey as well herringbones, self stripes and plains.

The Heroic answers the demands of as fashionable summer darks like brown, today’s man. A medium weight of 280g The choice of pleasing designs looks navy and brown-red/dark rust. makes the cloth suitable for all year again more attractive on this fine yarn YOUNG GENERATION round and the wide choice of the 71 count and gives an elegant appearance. articles offers variety in design and shade.

801951-801970 The sturdy twill weave of the Super 100’s COSMOPOLITAN Scabal’s Young Generation reflects the 752691-752699 actual trend for very casual jacketings Wool gives reliability, elegance and good A luxury summer blend of fine Super 150’s in plain and semi-plain designs. The wearing properties. with shiny Silk and cool Mohair is created collection shows therefore a variation NOBILITY under the name Cosmopolitan. As the of different composition and structures 852251-852270 name lets imagine, this is an ideal cloth for based on linen and cotton. Shades are A composition of silk and wool offers a elegant globetrotters maybe even fond of mainly more discreet: beige, brown and comfortable summer blend in a luxury the vintage red cocktail. The cloth offers a blue are most important. perfect, elegant look even in the hot sun. manner.

Stay cool and comfortable wherever you are.

COLIBRI Soft and pastel shades as mellow rosé, 802011-802022 sky blue and soft green underline the SHUTTLE This collection is really no “mainstream”. smooth character of the cloth. No less 752701-752712 Colibri shows 12 brand new jacketing important and elegant are mid to dark Elegant, urban suitings in a fine Super designs, 100% pure new Wool, woven in 120’s quality are offered by the Shuttle Scabal’s mill in Huddersfield, England blue designs. collection. With a reduced colour palette in unique and fascinating designs. That’s The collection of 20 new articles offers of blues, greys and browns the collection not a collection for the faint hearted fashionable checks, as well as hound- lives from its light- dark contrast which persons but for everybody who wants stooth, plains and semi-plains. makes it an exciting proposition. At 250g to make a statement in fashion.

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FRESH Fresh is Scabal’s new jacketing collection made out of fine pure new Wool.

In addition to the nice handle of the lightweight cloth, a special cool finish gives extra wearing properties.

This special finish leaves nearly no surface fibers which makes the fabric very clean allowing air to circulate more easily and therefore ventilate the wearer. The volume of the cloth is reduced with extra press. This thin fabric does not insulate the body and is therefore cooler as there is no trapped air. Both make the cloth feel lighter and more comfortable permanently.

On top of this the finish gives the fabric an advanced moisture management which means that sweat is conducted away from the body and dissipated through the fabric as one knows from the effect of outdoor clothing base layers. The quick drying properties offer comfort even during hot summer days.

Lusty shades as red, summery turquoise, pea-green and azure underline the fresh feeling of the cloth.

To view all new fabrics, visit www.scabal.com/fabricscat

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There is a reason why you have never seen this model, Raidillon is exclusively limited to 55 original Masterpieces.

S C ABAL SPR I N G- S UM M E R 2 0 1 4 T R EN D S

SUIT: Londoner, Super 140’s 100% wool, 2/2 twill stripe, 250 grams, made in England * fabric n° 752657 SHIRT: ref. E4 3079 Oxford-patterned shirt made from two-ply fabric in natté weave.

TIE: Brighton, 3100 Tie in silk satin weave.

SHOES: Classics collection, model L 506 00 Polished French calfskin with Goodyear welded sole.

SOCKS: Pacific Filoscozia socks made with the finest Egyptian cotton with reinforced heels and toes that are knitted by hand.

HANDKERCHIEF: York, 7255 Cotton and linen handkerchief with printed and hand-rolled edges.

MODERN BRITISH LUXURY 29

SUIT: Silver Cloud, Super 120’s 100% wool, 240 grams * fabric n° 703324 SHIRT: ref. F1 3099 Super-fine poplin shirt made from compact cotton.

TIE: Oxford, 2075 Refined summer tie in airy natté weave.

SHOES: Classics collection, model L 526 00 Classic moccasin from shiny polished French calfskin.

SOCKS: Pacific Filoscozia socks from finest Egyptian cotton with reinforced heels and toes that are knitted by hand.

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SOFT JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n째 801939 TROUSERS: Chino, model C 451 00 Pure cotton gaberdine chinos, piece dyed with sartorial details.

SHIRT: Ref. F2 3171 Patterned plain-weave shirt with soft button down collar.

TIE: Birmingham, 6092 Pure linen plain-weave tie, piece dyed.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L 533 01 Derby in ultra-light calf suede.

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SOFT JACKET: Young Generation, performance linen wool, 280 grams * fabric n째 801963 TROUSERS: Jeans, Weekend, J 402 00 Jeans made from precious original Japanese denim (Kuroki) with two different finishes, classic or sport.

SHIRT: Ref. E4 3090 Sportive shirt in plain pure linen, slim fit with soft collar.

SCARF: Chelsea, 8085 Superfine pure cotton voile scarf in multicolour print.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L532 01 Unlined sneaker from laser-cut calfskin nappa with ultra-light soles.

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JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n째 801937 JEANS: model J 401 00, 55514 Piece dyed five pocket jeans in pure cotton gaberdine.

SHIRT: Ref. F1 3107 Slim-fitting super-fine cotton shirt with soft collar.

TIE: Birmingham, 6091 Pure linen tie with multicolour print.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L530 01 Nubuck sneaker with contrast stitching.

HANDKERCHIEF: York 7256 Cotton and linen handkerchief with printed and hand-rolled edges BELT: Devonport 1 Nubuck belt with hand finished brass buckle.

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JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n° 801934 JEANS: Model J 401 00, 55513 Piece dyed five pocket jeans in pure cotton gaberdine.

SHIRT: Ref. E4 3072 Jacquard weave shirt with casually soft BD collar.

TIE: Oxford, 2075 Refined summer tie in airy nattĂŠ weave.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L531 01 Super lightweight moccasin, deerskin-printed calf leather, contrast colour stiching.

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WEEKEND JACKET: Model I 303 00 Slim-fitting unlined sweater jacket in cotton stretch piquet.

JEANS: Model J 401 00, 55513 Piece-dyed five pocket jeans in pure cotton gaberdine.

SCARF: Westminster, quality 8064 Jacquard weave cotton and linen scarf.

SHIRT: Ref. F1 3107 Superfine cotton shirt, slim fit, soft collar.

HANDKERCHIEF: Quality York Cotton and linen handkerchief with printed and hand-rolled edges.

BELT: Canberra 1 Elk print calfskin belt with stitching and edges in contrast color, covered buckle in brass.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L531 01 Super lightweight sport moccasin in derrskin print calf leather.

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WEEKEND JACKET: Model I 302 00 Piece-dyed stretch cotton sweater jacket.

SHIRT: F1 3107 Slim fit super-fine pure cotton shirt with soft collar.

SCARF: Westminster, quality 8064 Jacquard weave from fine linen and cotton.

JEANS: Model J 401 00, 55513 Cotton gaberdine 5 pocket jeans, piece dyed.

HANDKERCHIEF: Quality York Cotton and linen handkerchief with printed and hand-rolled edges.

RAINCOAT: Weekend collection, model I 322 00 Lightweight raincoat for casual use.

BELT: Canberra 1 Elk print French calfskin belt with stitching and edges in contrast colour, covered buckle in brass.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L531 01 Super lightweight sport mocassin in deer-skin print calf leather.

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JACKET: St. Tropez, pure striped linen, 240 grams * fabric n째 801945 TROUSERS: Pure Linen, made in England, 260 grams * fabric n째 801485 POLO: Arizona, model Phoenix Fine piquet polo shirt made from Egyptian cotton with Filoscozia yarns.

BAG: Model V 603 01, art. 666 22 Two-tone coloured briefcase made from very soft calfskin, contrast stitching.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L 533 01 Derby made from super-light calf suede.

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SOFT JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen, 2/2 twill check, 270 grams * fabric n째 801939 TROUSERS: Pure Linen, made in England, 260 grams * fabric n째 801485 POLO: Arizona, model Phoenix Fine piquet polo shirt made from Egyptian cotton Filoscozia yarns.

BAG: Model V 605 01, art. 666 22 Weekender in super-soft French calfskin.

SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L 533 01 Derby made from super-light calf suede.

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KNITWEAR: Dakota, model Chicago Cardigan in pure Pima Peruvian cotton mercerized.

TROUSERS: Pure Linen, made in England, 260 grams * fabric n째 801485 SHOES: Seasonal collection, model L531 01 Super lightweight sport moccasin in deerskin print calf leather.

INFORMATION: Filoscozia is a trademark for long fibred, naturally shiny, highly twisted, mercerized and flamed yarns which is the best summer cotton yarn for socks available.

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Drink our know-how wisely.

TH E BESPO K E C OA C H

MADETO-MEASURE A Made-To-Measure suit is largely dependent on the pattern and construction that it is based on. Many things can be changed to suit the wearer, from the proportions of the body to the slope of the shoulders but if the basic pattern and construction are not refined enough, the result will be simple and naive. Like a child’s drawing of an adult.

By Simon Crompton

S

cabal has reformed its Made-To-Measure system in several different ways this season, with the sleeve, armhole and shoulder among the aspects improved.

The sleeve has been widened around the upper arm, but the armhole kept to its existing size, therefore improving freedom of movement. The armhole itself is cut in a slightly new shape – flattened, so that there is more room at the front. One rarely feels the restriction of an armhole at the back, but everyone knows the sensation of pushing against it when reaching forward. And could we be romantic enough to suggest that we all want the freedom to reach for things in front of us?

Other areas of change include the line of the sleeve, which has been curved to aid that forward movement, and the space occupied by the shoulder. By enlarging this space slightly forward and back, this complex joint is given the room it needs to move in every direction.

other joint allows movement and equal exertion in so many directions. It is surrounded by collarbone, shoulder bone and shoulder blade. In between is a complex network of sinew and muscle. All of it must be covered seamlessly (ok, there are seams – but smoothly) with the lightest of cloths, which allows the joint to move and then, once movement is completed, returns unruffled to its original state.

Not easy. As well as increasing the space for the shoulder, as mentioned, the new Scabal made-to-measure system improves the suit’s structure by using a soft, malleable shoulder pad that is permitted to move as much as possible within the suit. It is often the misalignment of pad, canvas and cloth that leads to buckling and wrinkling around the shoulder, and the more freedom the pad has the better.

‘Freedom’ is a theme that seems to run through the whole system. Perhaps that is the ultimate aim of the contemporary suit – to retain tailoring’s timeless elegance, but permit the freedom demanded by a modern lifestyle. We all want to reach, Indeed, dealing with the movement required by the shoul- stretch and embrace; if we can look good while we do it, all der is perhaps the most complicated part of any suit. No the better.

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TH E BESPO K E C OA C H

THE IMPORTANCE OF MEASUREMENTS It’s all about communication. Made-To-Measure is a wonderful system and can achieve incredible results. Another key to the system are accurate measurements.

By Simon Crompton

C

onsider the tautness of a tape measure. A slight slackening will add a centimetre to the waist, perhaps two to the chest – the tension with which a tape measure is held therefore has to be consistent. If the tape is not quite level, if it is slightly lower at the back than in the front, this too can add to the measurement.

experienced measurement taker may start a conversation about things that could not even have to do with clothing – for the customer’s ease and the benefit of the final result.

Scabal chooses not to sell Made-To-Measure suits online, since nothing beats the personal touch of a true professional, nothing can substitute the experience of touching the fabrics and trying on real garments. To make it easy for even the These are just two examples of why taking measures is a job busiest amongst us, Scabal also offers its Made-To-Measure that needs to be carried out very carefully. Fortunately, your service at your office, your home, or even your hotel etc. An wardrobe adviser at Scabal is experienced and takes a lot of experienced partner is able to measure you efficiently in a care in getting your measurements right. He has seen many reasonable time, and some reassuring style advice is available suits and customers, and he knows how to play the system right. if requested.

For instance, he knows that many customers tend to stiffen up when they see themselves in a large mirror. If this posture is The major work is done now. So stand at ease, and enjoy your translated unfiltered into a suit, it may not fit perfectly. So the visit to Scabal.

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MR. F O C U S

Suit, Shirt, Tie, Raincoat, Shoes and Bag: Scabal

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FABRIC N°752658 AND MR. FOCUS

Mr. Focus does not wear a suit because he has to. He wears a suit because he wants to. For this confident and intelligent entrepreneur, a finely tailored suit is like a natural second skin. He is always busy with his many projects, so comfort is paramount, which is why he likes the easy reliability of fabric n° 752658 from Scabal’s Londoner collection. Weighing 250 grams, this is a versatile twill cloth in high-grade Super 140’s Australian Merino wool. Mr. Focus admires the honest qualities of this cloth, woven in Scabal’s own mill in Huddersfield, England. He prides himself in being upright and dependable in all his dealings and he likes the reliability of this excellent performer. The pinstripe is a classic business suit design but the assured Mr. Focus always looks for a contemporary angle.

The fresh approach of the bright blue ground never lets him down.

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M R. FO C US : H I S TA I L OR

HENRY POOLE & CO FOUNDING FATHER OF SAVILE ROW

An international connoisseur, Mr Focus accepts no less than the highest standards of comfort, elegance and performance in everything he chooses - whether it be his watch, his car or his suit.

Confident in his tastes and style, time is his most precious asset. When in London, Mr Focus always plans a visit to his preferred Savile Row tailor, Henry Poole & Co.

By Joanna Pays

F

or over two centuries, Henry completely comfortable and confident Poole & Co has dressed in the image they portray. Whether for royalty and celebrities from a business suit, or a complete wardrobe around the world. Such has for a hunting weekend, we offer a purely been the firm’s influence on bespoke product, service, and expertise. We gentlemen’s bespoke tailoring that it is take into account the customer’s morpholcurrently the subject of a major exhibition ogy and posture to achieve the best possible at the prestigious Bowes Museum. Henry balance and the most flattering form. Just Poole traces its history back to 1806, like a classic Patek Philippe watch, with when merchant James Poole opened his our garments, our customers will still feel London-based business in cloth trading. confident wearing them in ten years time.”

The firm established a reputation for the quality of its military regalia during the “For our clientele, time is of the essence.

Napoleonic wars, and when James’ son Outside of their business obligations, their Henry took over in 1846, he enlarged leisure time is precious to them. Shopping the premises. The front entrance became may not be their favourite pastime but they number 15 Savile Row, other tailoring do enjoy coming here, as they get to know establishments soon relocated to join the staff and the atmosphere is reminiscent them and the institution of Savile Row of a private members club. From the comfort tailoring was born. At around this time, of the lounge they can admire the precision Henry Poole & Co acquired the custom of the tailors in workshops below. They can of Napoleon III and Edward VII. Thus relax in one of the deep leather armchairs began Henry Poole’s association with by the fireplace, while they savour a glass some of Europe’s greatest dandies and of 25 year old Chivas and discuss their the first of its many Royal Warrants. wardrobes for the next season.”

By 1890, Henry Poole had become the largest bespoke tailoring firm in Europe, with over 300 staff at its headquarters.

PURELY BESPOKE PRODUCT, SERVICE AND EXPERTISE

Simon Cundey, Managing Director, is the seventh descendant of founder James Poole to assure the perenity of the firm’s heritage and tradition. “It has been said that Henry Poole does not have a particular ‘look’ and this is true. Our clients range from classical to ‘extravagant with taste’. We see clientele from all walks of life - from royalty and politicians to businessmen and entertainers. What they have in common is that they need to feel

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FINEST FABRICS

“When it comes to fabrics, our clients are often looking for lightweight attire, suitable for business travelling. For luxurious winter suits that hold their shape and are adaptable to day and evening, Scabal’s Eton super 130’s are a popular choice” says Simon Cundey. “For warmer climates, Super 100’s with a high twist factor, such as Monza are ideal. As to fabric design, I recommend that any businessman’s wardrobe contains at least one suit in Birdseye weave, one of my own personal favourites. For sports jackets, I have a preference for Saxony Tweeds and window check fabrics in blue-green lovat, which look great with flannels or blue jeans.

Amongst our neighbours on Saville Row are Scabal, at number 12. Our two firms have built up a special relationship, with a number of bolts exclusive to Henry Poole.

One example is the Legend range, based on designs especially made for Henry Poole’s customers of legend - such as the black-blue worsted chalk stripe created for Randolph Hearst.”

HENRY POOLE EXHIBITION AT THE BOWES MUSEUM

Savile Row tailoring and cloth from traditional British mills. Many of the historical and contemporary garments The Bowes Museum exhibition ‘Henry on display from Henry Poole’s archives Poole & Co Founder of Savile Row: The have never previously been exhibited Art of Bespoke Tailoring and Wool Cloth’ in public. These masterpieces are comis a major event in men’s tailoring. The plemented by examples of some of the museum itself is home to a magnificent finest fabrics used in men’s tailoring, permanent collection which includes including those from the famed Bower a world-renowned fashion and textile Roebuck mill in Huddersfield, a town gallery. The Henry Poole exhibition whose tradition in cloth making and is a celebration of the supremacy of weaving dates back to the middle ages.

“Being approached by the Bowes Museum for this exhibition is a great honour” says Simon Cundey. “Finally we have the opportunity to share the extent of our collection of garments in all their colour and history.”

The Henry Poole exhibition at the Bowes Museum will run through until 11 May 2014.

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THE NEW RaNgE RovER SpoRT landrover.be

6,4-12,8 L/100 KM – 169-298 G/KM CO2.

All use of the vehicle off-road must obey the traffic regulations and respect the environment at all times.

Environmental information [Belgian Royal Decree of 19 March 2004]: www.landrover.be..

MR. FO CUS: H I S W A TCH

LANGE 1 TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR HANDWERKSKUNST Irresistible... While travelling through Hong Kong last fall, Mr Focus could not resist the re-issue of this timepiece crafted by A. Lange & Sohne, a limited edition of just 15 pieces only.

By JP Talbot

T

he Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst combines two classic complications with the typical design of A. Lange & Söhne’s most famous wristwatch: the Lange 1. Intelligently arranged around the time indications, the calendar displays with the patented peripheral month ring deliver a host of information at a single glance: date, day, month, leap year, and moon phase. A decisive asset: all perpetual calendar displays advance instantaneously. They are so harmoniously integrated in the dial architecture that it takes a second look to grasp the technical complexity of this horological masterpiece. To assure crisp legibility, the refined tourbillon mechanism with the patented stop function can be observed only on the case back side.

The dial is crafted from solid white gold and in this special edition is decorated with a rare combination of tremblage and relief engraving techniques. The manual work involved extends into the realm of the smallest details: for the first time in a Lange timepiece, the blue numerals of the outsize date display are hand-painted.

The epithet Handwerkskunst also applies to the decorations of the manufacture calibre L082.1 without reservation. They are the traditional counterpoints to the avant-garde calibre design innovations.

The relief-engraved tourbillon and intermediate-wheel cocks frame the tourbillon ensemble with the patented stop-seconds feature. The same free-hand engraving technique is used to decorate the large central rotor in 21-carat gold with a platinum centrifugal mass. Each of the three train bridges is embellished with

solarisation. The specular polish on the upper side of the tourbillon cage is also a typical Lange quality hallmark. Four screwed gold chatons and a diamond endstone bearing for the tourbillion are the grand finale of Lange’s “Handwerkskunst” extravaganza.

A 41.9-millimetre platinum case is the fitting highlight of this composition of precious metals. The A. Lange & Söhne signature and the case and edition serial numbers on the case back are hand-engraved.

This exclusive collectors’ item came late 2013 in a limited edition of 15 watches that are available exclusively through the eleven international A. Lange & Söhne Boutiques.

www.alange-soehne.com 49

M R. FO C US : H I S CA R

THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS THE ALL-NEW RANGE ROVER SPORT Mr.Focus himself was in New York at the end of March, and there was absolutely no way he was going to miss his meeting on 8th Avenue. In a scene reminiscent of a Hollywood movie, actor Daniel Craig revealed the all-new Range Rover Sport as part of a dramatic drive through the Big Apple. The fastest, most agile and responsive Land Rover to date was put to the test by the British actor, who was entrusted to deliver the vehicle for its first unveiling to the world.

By JP Talbot

M

r.Focus had to forget everything he thought he knew about the old Range Rover Sport. While the 2013 model retains some similarities with its predecessor, it is now much more than simply the “Sport” version of the Discovery.

Instead, it takes its visual styling clues from its big brother, the new Range Rover, fresh off the Solihull production line just a few months ago. Equally at home in the back alleys of London and the winding roads of East Sussex, the “Sport” now offers better roadholding capabilities than any of the brand’s other models, as well as delivering superb performance off the beaten track. This versatility is one of the reasons why Mr.Focus has chosen this particular vehicle.

He still remembers that spring night, two years ago, when he had to give up and turn back in the Chiltern Hills. If only he had been driving a vehicle with genuine off-road capabilities.

He’d have been able to get around the land slide caused by heavy rain. And his hunting weekend wouldn’t have been disrupted.

DRIVEN TO ANOTHER LEVEL

The new Range Rover Sport isn’t just powerful and muscular.

It also features an unprecedented range of details and options.

The interior of the Sport perfectly reflects the evolution of the brand – a brand which was the first to introduce the concept of a luxury 4x4in 1970: a vehicle that combined the capabilities of the Land Rover’s comfort and off road performance. If the cigarette lighter was still an option on the first Range Rover at the time, right from its beginnings the vehicle had already adopted a deep sense of detail and British elegance thanks to its craftsmen and designers in Solihull. The 2014 version puts an emphasis on its sporty side, mainly through its front seats, which would not be out of place in a Jaguar. However, this sporty character does not detract from the elegance of the other elements. Designers of the new Range Rover Sport were obsessed with perfection, dictating every minutiae of detail, even down to the size and shape of needles used for stitching the high grade leather of the steering wheel. For a while, Mr. Focus thought he would opt for the Supercharged model and its Red Brembo brake callipers. But…

CO2 OFFSETTING In addition to the diesel hybrid version, Mr. Focus is sensitive to the brand’s carbon emissions offsetting progamme. Working with carbon offset experts Climate Care, the company invests in projects that avoid or reduce CO2 emissions. Such projects offset emissions made during the manufacturing and assembly of vehicles, as well as those emitted during the first 45,000 miles (72,000km) of their use.

Land Rover focuses its efforts on three main areas of sustainability: switching from fossil fuels to renewable energy, promoting renewable technology and improving energy efficiency within communities and industry alike. Its projects include two huge hydroelectricity generators in Tajikistan, technology leading wind-farms in Turkey and China, a combined heat and power plant in Russia, efficient stove distribution in Uganda, and fuel switch power generation in China. These ventures have the added benefits of reducing pollution and providing employment for local communities.

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DIESEL HYBRID

The introduction of new engine specifications quickly made him change his mind. Land Rover has indeed launched the first premium diesel SUV hybrids, featuring three driverselectable modes and combining Land Rover’s 3-litre SDV6 diesel engine with a 35kW electric motor integrated with the 8-speed ZF automatic transmission. The electric motor produces 170Nm torque to boost acceleration and drives the vehicle in EV Mode. In driver-selectable EV mode the Range Rover Hybrid can travel at speeds of up to 30mph for a range of up to one mile before the diesel engine seamlessly restarts.

Together, output of the diesel engine and electric motor is 340hp at 4,000rpm and a class-leading 700Nm torque between 1,500-3,000rpm. The model accelerates to 62mph (100 km/h) in under seven seconds, delivering strong transient and mid-range performance, with a top speed of 140mph (225 km/h). This is cumulated with a 26 percent reduction in CO2 emissions to 169g/km, equivalent to 44.1mpg on the combined cycle.

TECHNOLOGY FOR EVERY OCCASION

Inside, the new Range Rover Sport offers a comprehensive connectivity package for staying seamlessly connected to the vehicle, business and family life. ‘Connected car’ technology allows the driver to check the status of the vehicle via an App installed on his smartphone and also provides support features such as Stolen Vehicle Tracking, Emergency Call and Land Rover Assist Call. Another unique innovation on the Sport is the new Wade Sensing feature that provides ‘depth’ information when driving through water, made even more beneficial to the driver now that the Sport’s maximum wading depth has increased by 150mm over the previous model to 850mm. The most important thing is that Mr.Focus gets to his meetings on time. Whether they’re in the City or the hilly regions of the north.

www.landrover.co.uk 51

MR. C O O L

Jacket, Skinny jeans, Shirt, Shoes and Handkerchief: Scabal

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FABRIC N°801988 AND MR. COOL

You will never see a worry line on the brow of Mr. Cool. Life is a super adventure and he is enjoying every minute of it. He loves traditional values but believes in updating them for a contemporary lifestyle. It’s no surprise that he admires the technical advancement of fabric n° 801988, an open fresco-style weave that has been given a special cool finish in our own specialist Yorkshire mill in England.

Soft and sleek with a dry handle, the 230 grams cloth from the Fresh collection makes Mr. Cool’s half lined sports jacket actually feel cooler. The special finish leaves nearly no surface fibres which makes the fabric clean and reduces the volume. Both make the cloth feel lighter and more comfortable. In addition, the finish provides the fabric with advanced moisture management, taking moisture away from the body to dissipate through the fabric. The quick drying properties offer comfort even during hot summer days.

As he is rarely in one place for long, Mr. Cool enjoys the fact that this pure Australian Merino wool cloth is crease resistant.

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M R . COO L : H I S F A V OUR I T E D R I N K

IT’S GIN O’CLOCK

Gin and tonic is still the absolute style as far as cocktails are concerned. As a result, the market is being quenched by all sorts of new gins and tonic - some with more distinguished than others. For years, Mr. Cool has been an avid G & T drinker. Over this time he has built up an extensive fund of knowledge and has a very clear idea of what he wants in the way of gin. Learn about his preferences…

By Jeroen Coteur

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G

in is obtained by distilling fermented grain. The addition of juniper berries, along with a blend of other herbs and spices, gives this drink its specific flavour. The taste of classic gin is very dry, so it is rarely drunk neat. A distinction is made between the different kinds of gin, on the basis of the production method.

berries, resulting in a very fresh aroma of which Mr. Cool is especially fond of.

THE PERFECT PAIR

Despite the pronounced flavours of the various different gins, Mr. Cool DISTILLED GIN prefers to drink them as a Gin & Tonic Another gin category is Distilled Gin, in cocktail. He fills his glass almost to which other infusions are added after the the top with ice, pours 45 to 60 ml distillation process, or extra ingredients gin over this, and finally tops it up are included in the distillation. Mr. Cool with tonic – preferably from a single recently discovered Sloane’s Dry Gin. portion bottle, and definitely not For this Dutch gin, nine special botanical from a siphon. The mixing of the gin ingredients are distilled separately, and and tonic results in an explosion of LONDON DRY then blended in the perfect proportion fragrance in which the spicy aromas The best-known sort is undoubtedly and balance. The result is a smooth and of both waft towards him.

London Dry Gin. London Dry does not fresh taste. Caorunn is a Scottish gin refer to a place, but indicates a single which, as well as six traditional botani- THE RIGHT TONIC distillation in which all the ingredients cals, also includes a Scottish accent with, The choice of tonic is critical to the are included in the distillation at the among other things, wild Rowan berries, success of the cocktail. But here too, same time. Only water is allowed to be bell heather, dandelion, and Scottish Mr. Cool fortunately has all the necesadded after distillation. A London Dry apples. These give Caorunn its powerful sary prior knowledge. Thomas Henry that Mr. Cool particularly appreciates floral and citrus aromas. London N1 gin is a smooth tonic that only enhances is Broker’s Gin, a classic of its genre. has a very distinctive blue colour, arrived the gin, and allows the intense aromas This has a dry juniper berry taste that at through the use of Gardenia flowers. and flavours to come into their own. quickly develops subtle citrus over- The flavour is based on four elements: With less than 10 g of sugar per 100 tones of lemon and orange. With the Spring water from North London, the ml, Fever-Tree Tonic Water is a healthy aftertaste comes the additional flavour best grain from Suffolk and Norfolk, a addition to his gin. Indi & Co is a of black pepper. Fifty Pounds Gin is also meticulous distillation process, and 12 Spanish tonic from the Seville region. traditional London Dry of choice. Its herbs and spices from all over the world. Fentimans Tonic Water is less sweet ingredients are carefully selected from Hendrick’s Gin is also on Mr. Cool’s list than other tonics, and for this reason is suppliers around the world, including of favourites. This has a superb juniper a perfect match for the more spicy gins.

Africa, Southern Europe and the Middle berry flavour with touches of citrus Q Tonic Water is a Premium tonic from East. Fifty Pounds gin has a somewhat and cucumber, and is put into charac- Peru that contains quinine and uses oleaginous texture and a full bouquet teristic bottles with an old apothecary agave as a natural sweetener, rendering of citrus, mint, lavender, and juniper appearance. a very specific overtone.

PENHALIGON’S JUNIPER SLING EAU DE TOILETTE Mr. Cool not only drinks gin, but occasionally wears it as well… this perfect creation by Olivier Cresp was inspired by London Dry Gin. It is a crisp cocktail shot of gin with the freshness of juniper, cool measures of angelica and brandy, and a beating libertine heart of black pepper, cardamom, soft leather, and orris.

A gourmand base of brown sugar, black cherry, and amber add sensuality to the scent. A beloved and iconic tipple has been transformed into a complex and compulsive skin scent.

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White Shadow

Art Luxury & Investment presents

Georges Cuyvers WWW.WHITESHADOW.BE - ARTISTS

MR. FO CUS: H I S BE S T TR A V E L ME MO R Y

ORIENTAL EXPERIENCE

There exist as many different ways to travel as there are temperaments. When setting off to explore a small part of the immense continent of Asia, Mr. Focus opted for the Eastern & Oriental Express, reminiscent of the great trains of the early century.

By JP Talbot

E

leven days. That is the time the Orient Express proposes to make the trip between Singapore and Bagan, Mynamar.

A tranquil voyage, enabling the traveller to discover Southeast Asia to the rhythm of rail and river.

offers wood-panelled cabins – Pullman, State and Presidential Suites – all decorated with fine marquetry. Each of its air-conditioned cabins has an ensuite shower and lavatory, as well as large picture windows. The ultimate in luxury, Presidential Cabins are configured as a plush lounge during the day. At night, In the hustle and bustle of Singapore, they are converted into an intimate the journey begins in the calm and bedroom complete with two single beds. luxury of the Raffles Hotel, a local icon As the train gradually pulls away from renowned for its white colonnades and Singapore with its urban landscape, colonial style. For Mr. Focus, these first the countryside transforms into rice two days were an opportunity to shop paddies then rubber plantations, easily in the stores of Orchard Road, but also visible from the observation car. to take in the sea air near the Marina before rejoining the station, the real After a night in the Mandarin Oriental starting point of his Asian adventure. Hotel in Bangkok, it is time to take the plane to fly to Yangon, Myanmar, where The Eastern & Oriental Express is The Governor’s Residence awaits the a total break from everyday routine. travellers. A world which confirms the Sister train to Europe’s legendary words of Rudyard Kipling: “Burma is Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, it quite unlike any place you know about”.

Mr. Focus appreciated the colonial atmosphere of the town, but also the visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda and the impressive Karaweik, on the shore of Lake Kandawgyi.

Dedicated to river travel, the last four days of the voyage start in Bagan. This ancient city is an Indiana Jones film set of pagodas, sacked a millennium ago by Kublai Khan. The Road to Mandaly was waiting for Mr. Focus with a cruise in a Deluxe Cabin through mesmerising Myanmar. He admired the fascinating landscape as he cruised past small villages and farms dotted along the river bank. For Mr. Focus, experiencing this tranquil and exotic lifestyle will remain of his favorite memories. Nothing in common with his turbulent everyday life… www.orient-express.com

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M R. CO OL : H I S F A V OUR I T E T R AVE L D E ST I N AT I O N

SHANGHAI:

MORE THAN A BUSINESS TRIP Mr. Cool travels constantly around the world for his job. But he doesn’t mind, because on every business trip he also takes the time to explore the city. In this respect, one of his favourite destinations is, without question, Shanghai. In this mega-city he finds a unique combination of modernity and tradition: from the hectic activity of the commercial district Pudong to the authentic character of the Old City.

By Jeroen Coteur

Yu Yuan Garden

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The Bund

D

uring his visits to Shanghai, that has developed into the economic and financial centre of China, Mr. Cool spends quite some time in Pudong, the commercial district of Shanghai.

Therefore he usually books a hotel room in the Jin Mao Tower which, with its 421 metres, is one of the tallest buildings in the city. After freshening up at the end of a busy day filled with meetings, he makes his way to the 88th floor of the tower, where the Cloud 9 bar is located. Holding his favoured gin and tonic (check page 54) he enjoys the breathtaking view over the city.

THE BUND

But Mr. Cool also enjoys going into the old city. When he crosses the Huangpo river from Pudong, he comes to his favourite spot in Shanghai: The Bund. There he starts walking beside the river along the 1.5 km promenade, from the Waibaidu bridge to Yan’an Road. Along this promenade he passes several impressive buildings, largely of colonial origin: the former British Consulate, the Peace Hotel on both sides of the Nanjing Lu shopping street, the Customs House with its eye-catching, tall clock tower, the HSBC office with its enormous dome and magnificent lobby,… At the southern end of the promenade, he ends his walk at the former office of Royal Dutch Shell.

Oriental TV Pearl Tower

the clouds: the iconic Oriental Pearl Tower (1994, 468 m), the taller Jin Mao Tower already referred to, the Shanghai World Financial Center (2008, 492 m), and the Shanghai Tower (632 m) that will probably be completed in the course of this year.

HUXINTING TEA HOUSE

Because he is not yet ready to return to his hotel room, Mr. Cool ventures even deeper into the old centre, to the imposing old Yu Yuan Garden. This dates from the time of the Ming Dynasty. His favourite spot there is, without question, the Huxinting Tea House, a two-storey building in classic Chinese architectural style. Once darkness has fallen, with its illumination this building comes completely into its own. From inside, Mr. Cool enjoys the view of the nearby market, and each time experiments with a different variety of tea, a ritual that has never disappointed him.

BACK TO REALITY

After he gets back to his hotel room, he still spends several minutes looking out over the beautifully illuminated Bund, and makes out the various buildings that he has just passed.

Then he closes the curtains because he knows what the agenda of his smart phone has in store for him for tomorrow: a 7:30 breakfast meeting in the Shanghai World Financial Center…

THE SKY IS THE LIMIT

It is above all the superb illuminations that make an evening walk along The Bund so unique. Also, everything possible is done to keep the historic character of The Bund intact. For example, a limit has been set on the height of nearby buildings.

In addition, from The Bund, Mr. Cool has a magnificent view of the skyscrapers of Pudong where he has been working all day. At this spot on the other side of the river, up to 20 years ago the local farmers were still ploughing their fields.

Since then, the motto in Pudong has literally been “the sky is the limit”, with competing towers reaching ever higher into

HOW TO GET THERE Shanghai has two large airports. Hong Qiao – the former international airport – is at present still in use mainly for inland flights. International air travel has now been taken over

by Shanghai Pudong, which was opened in 1999 and is still in the throes of expansion, with a fourth and fifth runway and two additional terminals under construction. Some 90 airlines link Shanghai Pudong to almost 200 different destinations throughout the world.

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T EM PT A TI ON S

THESE UNEXPECTED GIFTS & ACCESSORIES There is no need to wait for an important occasion. Small gifts always have a very particular value when they are offered at an unexpected moment. Because it’s great to be able to offer something one might not normally buy. Something he or she can really use and enjoy on a daily basis. Regardless of the cost…

By JP Talbot

LE CHAMEAU This stylish and practical leather boot from Le Chameau is guaranteed to be 100% waterproof. The upper is created of full grain leather and nubuck in two attractively contrasting shades of brown. The boot is lined with a Gore-Tex membrane to completely waterproof the footwear. The Jameson proves that practicality need not be sacrificed for either comfort or style. www.lechameau.com

ROMANÉE-CONTI

CHINESE LACQUER

BY CARAND’ACHE

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Carand’Ache is one of the few Western manufacturers to use Chinese lacquer.

This subtle, precious material with its ivory colouring enhances the body of the Varius model. Made in Switzerland, the Varius China Ivory fountain writing instruments come with an international lifetime guarantee.

Great wine-lovers and lovers of great wine do not be deceived: the Romanée-Conti is considered one of the greatest wines of Burgundy, if not the best. The history of this vineyard dates back to the Middle Ages and its current production adhers to strict organic principles. With its rich ruby colour, this wine is wonderful when accompanying game. It can be cellared for between 20 and 40 years.

www.carandache.ch

www.romanee-conti.fr

THE SCENT OF SAVILE ROW

BOWERS & WILKINS P7 These over-ear headphones provide a truly immersive sound, combined with luxurious comfort and impeccable build quality. Thanks to its folding mechanism, P7 folds up like a pair of sunglasses, and comes with a soft-cover carry case for messenger bags or briefcases. P7’s cable comes with a remote/microphone attachment, so it works seamlessly with all smartphones.

Sartorial brings together the traditions of British perfumery and bespoke tailoring as the fragrance was inspired by the workshop of a tailor established on Savile Row. The modern thread running through this fragrance is beeswax; echoing the blocks of wax each thread is run across before stitching.

This sweet smudged note ties together the more traditional elements; the oiled flash of shears cutting cloth, the rub of fabric beneath fingers and tobacco tinted cabinetry. www.penhaligons.com

www.bowers-wilkins.co.uk

CONTINENTAL HANDBAG Luxury leather bag designer Vincent du Sartel brought to life The Continental, a wholly feminine interpretation of Bentley’s design concepts. Extensive attention has been dedicated to the execution of detail; the metal furniture with the classic knurled signature finish enhances the luxury and sense of craftsmanship in true Bentley style. To highlight the unique nature of the handbag, each contains a metal plaque that commemorates its individual number in the limited edition series, with the option to have this personalised to the owner and their car. www.bentleymotors.com 61

CLO TH G UI DE

A LINEN ATTITUDE With its unique qualities, linen is a material that has entered textile legend. Beneficial for the body and environmentally friendly to produce, linen is a textile fibre that has marked history and continues to offer challenges to designers.

By JP Talbot

T

he origins of linen as a material for clothing remain fairly mysterious. Archaeologists estimate that the first traces of its use date back 36,000 years. By Roman times, linen had reached a point of considerable importance in the economy. Flax - the raw material used to produce linen - was mainly cultivated in a region covering France and Belgium, which the Celts referred to by their name for linen, Bel’ch. The Romans re-christened it Belgae, which later became Belgium.

Used in the textile industry, linen’s properties are just as unique. It is no doubt best known for its ability to keep the body at a comfortable temperature, which has made it very popular in hot countries. Linen is also a comfortable, hypoallergenic fibre that does not irritate the skin. Several studies have even demonstrated that it helps promote sleep when used for bedding.

TRADITION AND ECOLOGY

The properties of flax are so well known not only because they have been studFlax is still mostly produced in Europe, and ied for millennia, but also because flax its qualities are not limited to its uses in the cultivation has been protected from textile industry. It is found in construction industrialization. This disposition to materials, sports equipment, car manufac- develop naturally means that flax is ture etc. And no wonder: the qualities of up to 50 times more environmentally flax in terms of insulation, lightness and friendly than other fibres. Flax’s high strength are decidedly exclusive. ecological score is based on its whole

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lifetime, starting in the fields. Here flax is distinguished by its extremely low requirements in terms of energy, water and pesticides. During its production, linen processing in Europe requires much less energy than textiles produced in countries that generate electricity from coal. Greenhouse gas emissions are thus much lower than in some other industries, for example. In terms of clothing production, linen is also the natural fibre that is easiest to dye, even though the fabric is better known in its natural ecru shade.

COLLECTIONS

Despite the fact that it dates back to well before the very idea of civilization, linen is a difficult material to work. It remains a challenge for designers, who see it as a symbol of true elegance. As it creases, linen clothing acquires the distinction

JACKET: St. Tropez, pure linen TIE: Birmingham, pure linen with multicolour print.

HANDKERCHIEF: York 7256, cotton and linen with printed and hand-rolled edges

and the touch of class that often give it pride of place in major fashion designers’ collections. Who could forget Hollywood’s legends strolling through the streets of Cairo or Casablanca in their white linen suits?...

Scabal has an extensive offer in linen.

From 100% linen in the Pure Linen and Vintage Linen bunches to combinations with cotton, silk, wool and elastane in the Riviera and Lagoon bunches or the newly created St. Tropez and Young Generation ranges for Spring and Summer 2014.

To discover these bunches, you can sign up on the site with your Facebook, Google or Twitter account or with your email address at www.scabal.com/vip.

In Bespoken’s 12th edition, we wrote about the material properties of flax and linen. Now we want to address this precious natural fibre in its relation to the person wearing it, in what we call ‘linen attitude’.

Wearing linen is more than just a choice of a particular jacket, shirt or trouser. When you choose linen as a material, you are also choosing a certain attitude towards clothing and culture in general. As everyone knows, linen creases, everyone knows that it is the least elastic of all natural fiberes.

So why choose it?

“Our opinion is clear: nothing is as clean, as crisp and as full of summer flair as a freshly ironed linen garment. We cherish the moment we put it on crease- free, and we cherish the time when, as it creases, it remembers our movements and becomes more and more soft and supple,” says Scabal’s Creative Director Detlev Diehm. “Then we cherish the moment we decide to start another splendid day, putting on a crisp, freshly ironed linen shirt, suit or jacket. It doesn’t matter that it will be crease free only for a short time. Isn’t every precious moment a bit like that?”

www.mastersoflinen.com 63

WHITE SEATING SYSTEM RODOLFO DORDONI DESIGN

www.minotti.com

SCABAL WORLDWIDE For all resellers, agents and distributors, please visit www.scabal.com/stores. To contact us, please visit www.scabal.com/contact

COMPANY-OWNED STORES

AGENTS AND DISTRIBUTORS

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32, Boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels +32–2–512 42 03 shopbrussels@scabal.com

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VISIT OUR STORE LOCATOR

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SolStudio +7-495-730 2033 solstudio@bk.ru

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TURKEY Imaj Tekstil +90-212-282 71 93 info@scabalkanyon.com AMERICAS

CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

OCEANIA AUSTRALIA Tony Wain +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au NEW ZEALAND Velvet Fabrics +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz ASIA BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS – MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM

Hee Fabric Agencies +65-6336 0133 heefabricagencies@hee.sg

HONG KONG Fielding Brown & Finch +852-23-762 535 fbfhk@fieldingbrownfinch.com.hk

ARGENTINA Cipaz +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar

INDIA T.S.B. Overseas +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net

BRAZIL Erlu Tecidos +55-11-3115 41 22 atendimento@erlu.com.br

IRAN Sanayei +98-21-8871 92 69 babaksanayei@yahoo.com

CANADA Scabal USA +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com CHILE Holmes +56-27 17 39 22 alan@holmes.cl

JAPAN Scabal Japan +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp KAZAKHSTAN – KYRGYSTAN – TAJIKISTAN – TURKMENISTAN – UZBEKISTAN

COLOMBIA Marsanti +57-1-621 6805 marsanti@etb.net.co DOMINICAN REPUBLIC Tejidos La Ronde +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do MEXICO Gilly e Hijos +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx

Distribuidor Made to Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

U.S.A. Scabal USA +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com

Tehrani Nekou +98-55-611 469 tehranivahid@hotmail.com

Kovalsky s.r.l. +39-389-185 00 54 oleg.kovalsky@gmail.com

KUWAIT Technical Development Co LTD +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

Faris Rahmatallah +44-7776-217 691 faris@fmmercie.com

SOUTH KOREA DNJ Corporation +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com

N EXT ISSUE : JUL Y 2 0 1 4 In the next edition of Bespoken, you will discover the new Scabal Autumn-Winter 2014-2015 collection. Subscribe on www.scabal.com/vip to get a reminder or check our iPad app at www.bespoken.com/ipad.

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The

Art of progress.

The new Audi A8 instantly intrigues with its impressive sculptural line and its exceptional charisma. Once inside, however, the art of perfection is sure to take your breath away, as high-tech innovation has been reconciled seamlessly with the warmth of a sober yet luxurious interior.

Model shown with options. Environmental information (RD 19/03/2004) : www.audi.be

5,9 - 9,2 L/100 KM â—† 155 - 216 G CO2/KM.

David’s favourite expression is The Balvenie PortWood.

He has a skill no machine has. He can smell the future. Evolved over half a century, this sense detects The Balvenie’s character years before it emerges. Without his nose, its distinctive traits would be lost in time, wood and spirit.

He helped pioneer the art of finishing, influencing the whisky by maturing it in more than one cask. He’s been nosing The Balvenie so long, he lives and breathes it.

It’s what he knows.

Ons vakmanschap drink je met verstand. Notre savoir-faire se déguste avec sagesse.

www.omegawatches.com

IN THEIR OWN LITTLE WORLDS The tiny precision components in our mechanical movements dance to the rhythm of our lives – and they have been with us on some of mankind’s greatest adventures.