BESPOKEN 13

AUTUMN–WINTER 2013–2014 TRENDS A SCABAL INITIATIVE TO PROMOTE A TAILOR-MADE LIFESTYLE

Autumn-Winter 2013-2014 13th edition

THE NEW JAGUAR F-TYPE.

YOUR TURN. It’s the sports car only Jaguar can make. Supercharged engines and supercharged emotions. Now it’s your turn.

JAGUAR.COM

HOW A LI V E A RE YOU ?

9,0-11,1 L/100 KM. CO2: 209-259 G/KM. Highly advanced engines – 3.0 V6 340PS, 3.0 V6 380PS and 5.0 V8 495PS.

We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact : LEO bvba, Erik De Ridder edr@eventbox.be or +32 (0)486 13 13 13 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material.

Editor Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher LEO bvba Project Coordinator Kristel Geets Styling Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design Bert Wagemans Writers JEAN-PAUL TALBOT James Drew Eric Musgrave Jérôme Stéfanski Joanna Pays Anja van den borght Proofreading james drew & colin moors ReadRight.be

Photographers Luk Vander Plaetse Stephen Papandropoulos Ronald Stoops SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 98 49

E D I TOR I AL C O MMEN T

THE LUCKY NUMBER

D

ear reader, You are holding the 13th edition of Bespoken in your hands, and we consider this to be a very lucky number. This version of our magazine has seen some changes – our editorial team have made great efforts to improve on readability – you will find a little less text and many more pictures and following our readers’ requests, we have included more ‘look and fashion’ tips. After all, this is what we are all about, providing the discerning man with the perfect platform to design his own inspiring wardrobe.

We want to take you even deeper into the world of the Scabal man, by giving you an insight into our ‘Misters’’ choice of cars, holiday destinations, accessories and, most importantly, tailors. While ‘Mr. Style’ is more classical, more British and more romantic, ‘Mr. Strategy’ is more business-minded, cerebral and lively – a gentleman who would find himself very much at ease in the monumental office towers we highlight in our architectural review. The Misters and the ‘look book’ obviously only highlight examples of what browsing through the Scabal collection can bring – many more examples can be found on our new website or, of course, in one of our numerous Scabal stores. This time, a strong emphasis has been placed on accessories, since they represent a very important element of style.

Building an international brand is a long-term project, and many steps need to be taken.

After opening our first flagship store in Brussels, we are now taking things much further a field. June saw the opening of our first Chinese retail location in Beijing, a milestone that will hopefully only be the beginning of a long adventure in this booming market.

As the little logo on the bottom of this page indicates, we are very proud to look back at 75 years of activity as a cloth merchant, from the first sales of our founder in 1938 to today.

You will find this logo on many of our communications throughout the rest of the year in order to commemorate this happy anniversary.

We wish you, as always, happy reading.

Peter & Gregor Thissen

www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback ?

Let us know at www.bespoken.com Read Bespoken on your iPad : www.bespoken.com/ipad

‘Our editorial team have made great efforts to improve on readability’

Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper.

© Scabal

Gregor Thissen, Scabal CEO

Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen and his father Group Chairman J. Peter Thissen

YEARS

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at Bespoken.com 3

Scabal in f i gures

5,000 The number of exclusive fabrics in Scabal’s permanent collections

© Scabal

By Jérôme Stéfanski

An invaluable reserve of fabrics is maintained at Scabal’s headquarters, in the centre of Brussels – more than 5,000 styles are permanently available and sold by the metre, with no minimum requirement. Clients who typically order Scabal fabrics are traditional tailors, renowned fashion designers, international luxury fashion brands and fashion stores, and costume designers for movies, operas and theatres. A large portion of these fabrics is also personally used by Scabal itself to create its own readyto-wear and made-to-measure garments. Scabal guarantees that all orders are prepared and dispatched within 24 hours. This is quite an achievement, but also a necessity for a company that exports to more than 65 countries throughout the world. Six expert cutters are responsible for the 800 lengths of fabric that are hand cut every day – a sophisticated stock system, based on a combination of computer statistics and human judgement, has been developed to manage this stock.

4

Some of the 5,000 references that make up the impressive fabrics stock in Brussels

GOLDEN

BRIDGE

Montre à remontage automatique linéaire, boîtier en or rouge 18 carats avec côtés et fond saphir.

Premier mouvement CORUM automatique de forme baguette en or gravé.

Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.

AUTOMATIC

Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

www.corum.ch

Drink our know-how wisely.

Special feature

________________

________________

His Personality His Wardrobe

His Travel Destination Irish break in Donegal County

12

22

8

________________

Mr. STYLE

10

________________ His convertibles British style during the Mille Miglia

________________ 14

18

________________ His Tailor Joseph Martin, bespoke tailor ______________________

His Favourite Drink The Balvenie

________________ 7

M r. Style

His personality Jacket, trousers, socks, shoes and turtleneck pullover: Scabal

8

Mr. STYLE and FABRIC N째801875

Mr. Style is a globetrotting cosmopolite. His attitude to life is a confluence of classic English courtesy, south-European flair and relaxed Americana. He loves to combine rugged menswear pieces and classic tailoring with an interesting twist. Everything he wears needs to be smart but casual, to smooth his demanding journeys. For special end-of-year trips, Mr. Style adheres to his beautiful winter jacket from the Shetland & Donegal collection. It is a traditionally woven fabric, n째 801875, a pleasantly warm wool made from the finest fibers. Its plain weave, natural finish and sturdy weight give the jacket the trendy rustic look and voluminous feel that Mr. Style is so fond of. With its subtly speckled shades of brown, this stylish country tweed can be worn on both casual and more dressed-up occasions. An original, all-round choice, if you want to perfect your contemporary winter look.

9

M r. Style : H is W ardro b e

Casual winter

accessories As often as his schedule permits, Mr. Style takes to the Scottish moors for the equally famous grouse hunting. Thus, he takes advantage of the Scabal collection to find chic and comfortable accessories..

Boots: brown genuine leather

Belt: brown nubuck

Cardigan shawl collar: 80% wool, 20% polyamide

10

M r. Style : H is conv erti b les

British style during the Mille Miglia Mr. Style has barely noted a test of the Bentley New Continental GTC V8 he will be enjoying together with Mrs Style when his telephone rings again. Will he put the Jaguar F-Type through its paces around Firenze and drive part of the Mille Miglia course with the same car? Yes indeed – he’s right in with the official participants of this iconic old-timer race. His tweed cap slips to the side as he tries to scratch his head. To test Jaguar’s first sportscar in 50 years in what Enzo Ferrari described as “La corsa più bella del Mondo” (the most beautiful course in the world); that’s what you call testing a car in style.

By Anja Van Der Borght

Jaguar F-TYPE

M

Jaguar F-TYPE

r. Style mentally reviews the engine sounds that he has exposed his ears to in recent years. Only a few Aston Martin models can compete with the glorious bellowing and exploding sound of the brand new Jaguar F-Type. He would consider an S version of the new Jaguar F-Type for this unique sound alone. The first real sports car in years from the British manufacturer will be available in three models – the F-Type, the F-Type S and the F-Type

12

V8 S – powered respectively by the new 3.0 litre V6 petrol engine of 340 and 380 bhp, and the 5.0 litre V8 petrol engine of 495 bhp (which Mr Style remembers from the XF and the XJ). With the combination of front engine and rear wheel drive, the F-Type provides the technical basis for pure dynamic driving pleasure.

And that is something that Mr. Style can experience first-hand when testing the three models. The chassis of the F-Type feels beautifully balanced, and the grip is amazing. Nevertheless, in the V8 (the

top model of the series), by accelerating hard around bends Mr. Style can create perfectly controlled oversteer. Heavenly!

So this V8 is a full-blooded sportscar that reaches 100kph (62mph) in 4.3 seconds.

Personally, our test pilote would actually recommend the V6 S. For everyday use it is just that little bit less restless than the V8. In all three versions, the eightspeed Quickshift gear box shifts equally quickly. In the inviting interior with its quality finish, Mr. Style’s attention is immediately attracted to the ingenious

Bentley New Continental GTC V8

ventilation vents that rise out of the dashboard like a state-of-the-art airco when the climate control is switched on.

He also admires the copper-coloured shift paddles and other accents. Wayne Burgess, responsible with Ian Callum for the elegant and clean lines of the F-Type, gained the inspiration for this from his copper-coloured watch. “An Arnold & Son” he wonders? No, it turns out to be a Diesel. Mr. Style gathers that Burgess’s favourite design feature is the hand-made centre-mounted double exhaust on the V6-models. These are at the same time the largest and the most striking exhaust pipes that have ever been mounted on a Jaguar. They are hand made in the workshops of the Italian Unifer (a company specialising in exhausts for premium engines). The V6 models have two centre-mounted exhaust pipes, a reference to Jaguar sportscars of earlier days; the V8 has a double exhaust on the left and another on the right. In this way, an onlooker knows immediately which model he is seeing.

Bentley New Continental GTC V8

Mr. Style’s wife has always been a fan of the Bentley Continental models. She loves the irresistible combination of luxury, everyday driving comfort, and sportiness. And this is just the same with the Bentley New Continental GTC V8, the second generation of the successful cabrio inspired by the GT. Mr. Style immediately notices the more powerful and somewhat more agressive look of the four seater cabrio, while Mrs. Style sees at first glance that the car provides more space, particularly for the rear seating. The more-agressive look was chosen deliberately because the 6 litre W12 twin-turbocharged engine is not only linked to a new QuickShift gear box that shifts even faster, but is also more powerful. Its power output has been increased from 552 bhp (412kW) to 567 bhp (423 kW) and the torque by 50 Nm to 700 Nm. An absolute plus is that, in contrast to the 50-50 division in the previous GTC,

the transmission of the new cabrio splits the torque 40-60. The result: less understeer when coming out of a bend (one of the points of criticism of the previous model, he remembers), and better roadholding. Mrs Style thinks that she has found the perfect Bentley cabrio, and really enjoys herself in the winding lanes of the German Eiffel.

At no moment does the cabrio fail to meet expectations, and the grip is phenomenal. Now to convince Mr. Style to manage without that Jag...

www.jaguar.com www.bentlymotors.com www.millemiglia.it 13

M r. Style : H is Fa v orite D rin k

Of malt and men

Mr. Style has a serious weakness for tradition and savoir-faire, especially in a region that he loves so much. Naturally, he chose a fabric from the Shetland and Donegal collection for his jacket and, likewise, he became very interested in the history of the Balvenie, the last distillery to control the entire process of making Scotch whisky.

By JP Talbot

14

Balvenie Castle

T

he Balvenie Distillery was founded in 1893 in Balvenie Castle, which once heard the echoing voice of Robert the Bruce. Here, in the heart of the fertile Speyside, the distillery began its operations. The castle’s basement became a warehouse, the first storey a maltings floor, and upstairs a loft for the barley from the thousand acres of Balvenie Mains, the adjacent farm. In the 1920s, a new maltings was built, using stone blocks. Little else has changed over the years. Today, 120 years after its creation, the Balvenie Single Malt is recognized for its exceptional quality, which is due to the fact that the distillery nurtures a high level of craftsmanship

David Stewart, fifth Balvenie Malt Master

that other malt whisky producers no longer employ. “Nowhere else will you find a distillery that still grows its own barley, still malts in its own traditional maltings, still employs coopers to tend all the casks and a coppersmith to maintain the stills”, say its happy employees.

and the evolution it goes through from newmake spirit fresh off the still to the complex alchemy of its maturation in oak casks.”

A few years after he took office, the Balvenie Classic was born. There followed several more whiskys, created of the know-how and precise craft that 12 years’ only around a dozen malt masters have apprenticeship yet mastered in Scotland. The business Behind this expertise lies David Stewart, is based primarily on the nose and fifth Balvenie Malt Master. He actually looking for the best blends – a matter of joined the distillery in 1962, aged 17, patience, passion and experience. “Being with 12 years of apprenticeship before a malt master is not an ordinary job, and him. “During that time, I learned about because the apprenticeship is so long, you every aspect of the job from my predecessor,” need to be patient and fully dedicated to the he recalls. “This included developing a craft. You obviously need to live in Scotland, deep understanding of the Balvenie whisky as by law Scotch can’t be made anywhere

The Balvenie Single Malt Scotch Whisky The Balvenie is a unique range of single malts. Each has a very individual taste, but each is rich, luxuriously smooth and underpinned by the distinctively honeyed character of the Balvenie.

Today, the Balvenie Distillery produces a multi-award-winning range of the Balvenie single malts, which includes the Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Year Old, the Balvenie Single Barrel 15 Year Old, the Balvenie PortWood 21 Year Old and the Balvenie Thirty. Limited editions are also bottled every year. www.thebalvenie.com Coppersmith tools

15

The Balvenie uses its own traditional floor malting

Six stages of excellence Whisky production always follows the same steps – the quality with which these steps are performed has a profound effect on the finished product.

Stage 1: Barley and malting Balvenie Mains provides some of the barley that is malted to convert starch into the sugar. The Balvenie has the last active floor maltings in the Scottish highlands.

Stage 2: Mashing Mashing takes place in a ‘mash tun’ to extract soluble sugars from the malted barley.

Stage 3: Fermentation Fermentation is the stage at which alcohol is first produced. Such are the similarities here with the beer-making process that it is also known as brewing.

Stage 4: Distillation Because the shape of Balvenie’s copper stills is so important in defining the flavours and character of the Balvenie, their upkeep is critical. This is why they are carefully maintained by a coppersmith of some fifty years’ experience.

Stage 5: Cooperage The cask is so important to the taste of the Balvenie that its preparation and maintenance are entrusted to their own coopers who are committed to preserving their time-honoured skills and traditions of their age-old craft.

Stage 6: Maturation The new-make spirit is filled into the oak casks in which it will mature for many years. Maturation has a profound influence upon the taste of the single malt, not just because of the type of cask used, but also because of the temperature changes in the warehouses and the cool highland climate beyond.

16

Coppersmith Dennis McBain at work

else, which means weathering some of the extreme temperatures that we get here.”

David Stewart claims to have nosed more than 400,000 casks during his career. “To give you an idea, just to create a single batch of the Balvenie Signature, I’d be looking at nosing around 300 casks and probably on average 30 whisky samples each day.”

Tradition

While all the whiskys he has created are special to him, he feels most proud of the Balvenie PortWood. “Having spent a long time working with sherry casks, my feeling was that port might enhance our maturing whisky well and the final product is one I’m exceptionally proud of,” he explains with great modesty, as this creation has earned him no fewer than 53 awards.

This master craftsmanship and love of tradition is reminiscent of Scabal’s Fabrics Designer Michael Day, who is also one of a rare breed able to bring masterpieces from the best natural ingredients. Here there is no malt, of course, but rather the finest natural fibres, which he has selected, blended and worked for 36 years to produce unique, inimitable fabrics. Like whisky connoisseurs, fabric artists know their craft at first glance.

Taste our know-how wisely

M r. Style : H is tra v el destination

Irish break in Donegal County

‘The northern precipice, which drops 1,500 feet into the coomb surrounding the Little Lough Agh, harbours the majority of the alpine plants of Slieve League, the most varied group of alpines to be found anywhere in Donegal.’

Robert Lloyd Praeger, in The way that I went: An Irishman in Ireland

© Istockphoto

18

Lough Eske Castle hotel and spa

Mr. Style wears a jacket made from Scabal’s Shetland and Donegal fabric collection – a perfect opportunity to discover the Irish county that gives the name to this stunning fabric.

By JP Talbot

D

onegal is ‘Dun na nGall’ in Gaelic, which translates as ‘the fort of the foreigners’.

who sip Guinness before an open fire of the Olde Castle Bar, a pub that is to be found in the shadow of one of Donegal’s main historical monuments, Red Hugh O’Donnell’s Castle. To go here is to be immersed in Old Ireland, with its authentic decor and atmosphere, and its discreet luxury. Excellent local cuisine is served here, particularly the fruits of the sea caught in nearby Donegal Bay, such as oysters, fresh crab meat and lobster.

Downtown is also very pleasant – several boutiques offer the famous Irish tweed, and of course the typical Irish caps, most of which are produced in the local ‘Magee of Donegal’ plant, which was founded in 1866.

Mr. Style does not feel like a stranger in the heart of this rugged, natural landscape. He loves the strong wind that whistles through the sweeping heather. He takes several hours to enjoy a walk along the rugged shores of the Atlantic, witnessing the spectacle of waves crashing against the huge cliff of Slieve League, at the western tip of Donegal. Some believe that it is the highest cliff in Europe, others say it is the second highest, but what is certain is that it rises to more than 600 metres at its peak – the view is breathtaking, and here Mr. Style feels the full force The Donegal effect Much further to the west, in Kilcar, the of the natural elements.

Donegal yarns wool spinning mill is to Old Ireland be found, which was also founded in the Here in Donegal, they do not do things 19th century. Twenty employees create by halves. Nature is like this, and people three product ranges, Donegal Aran too – strong, warm and noisy sometimes. Tweed, Soft Donegal Celtic Tweed and a Just like the three weathered Irish faces, traditional Irish Heather 3ply range. Here,

we can also learn about the history of this famously indestructible high-quality fabric which, in Donegal, is said to be an evocation of the local scenery: green valleys, grey stones, the golden glow of autumn, the red berries of trees and yellow flowers. The ‘Donegal effect’ consists of a base mixture of up to six individual colours, and contrasting fleck-solid dotted along the yarn. The skill and craft of producing the tweed lies in the ability to attach the fleck while keeping its solid contrasting features intact.

Irish village life

Irish tradition and spirit also abound in Lough Eske Castle, which is to be found a dozen miles north-east of Donegal.

This luxury castle hotel and spa sits within a forest, hugging the shores of Lough Eske, with the Blue Stack Mountains in the background. This imposing Tudor baronial castle traces its roots back to the late 15th century and the O’Donnell family, which founded Donegal. Beyond its facade, the hotel is an 19

Lough Eske

embodiment of casual country living.

The design and decor are elegant, with an inviting lobby featuring imposing stone floors and oak staircase, yet the mood is surprisingly easygoing – from its impressive sculptures in the courtyard fountain to the diverse abundance of outdoor pursuits, the hotel celebrates the pastoral charms of Irish village life.

Mr. Style will particularly appreciate the library and lobby lounge, with its exposed sandstone wall, open fireplace and leather Chesterfield sofas. Here, time stops with a glass of Balvenie PortWood – ice-free, of course...

Mountains, a green mountain range that cuts the county in half. At Donegal Bay, Mr. Style remembers when, as a child, his father first took him on a Waterbus, for more than an hour along the coast. It was not the first time they had come to Donegal – then, he was amazed by the impressive landscape of the coast, and his interest was captured by the Old Abbey, where the Annals of the Four Masters, the chronicles of medieval Irish history, are to be found.

Donegal is also home to many country leisure pursuits – there are several Blue Stack golf courses, including the Donegal Mountains Golf Club, in the south-west, while The landscape of south-west Done- to the north are the Rosapenna and gal is dominated by the Blue Stack Ballyliffin ranges. Nature lovers will

adore one of Ulster’s natural treasures, Glenveagh National Park, a nature reserve complete with spectacular mountain scenery, raised boglands, lakes and woodlands, not to mention the Glenveagh Castle, which lies hidden at his heart. The mountainous landscape of Donegal also lends itself to more physical sports such as climbing, hill-walking and rock traversing, on trails such as Poisoned Glen or Inishowen Peninsula. There is also surfing to be enjoyed on the Atlantic coast, especially in Bundoran and Rossnowlagh. The county of Donegal has preserved the values and heritage of Ireland – you will discover a multitude of gems, which are either gifts from nature or the result of centuries of traditional knowledge.

How to get there County Donegal is located in the northwest of Ireland, around three hours’ drive from Dublin and two from Belfast. The county also has its own airport, Donegal Airport, which is very well connected to Dublin and Glasgow. A codeshare agreement with Loganair provides links to London Heathrow, with connecting daily services from Dublin. Being a local airport, it is advisable to reserve a taxi or rental car in advance.

All practical travel information can be found at www.donegalairport.ie © Istockphoto

Other useful links

Golfing by the sea in Donegal 20

www.discoverdonegal.ie www.donegalhotels.ie www.solishotels.com/lougheskecastle www.oldecastlebar.com

M r. Style : H is Tailor

My Tailor is... Irish Mr. Style is particularly fond of Donegal tweed. It is to Donegal’s neighbouring county of Sligo that Mr. Style goes to meet his tailor. Over three generations and almost 120 years, Joseph Martin has been the quintessential representation of bespoke tailoring in Ireland.

By Joanna Pays

Joseph Martin, Tailor

I

n the magical landscape of the northwest of Ireland lies the town of Sligo, renowned for the excellence of its traditional craftsmen, such as Joseph Martin, bespoke tailor. The tradition of tailoring in Joseph’s family dates back several generations - but it was his grandfather, also Joseph Martin, who set up the family’s first tailor’s shop in 1895. His son, Joseph Henry, grew the reputation of the business, opening the current premises in Sligo and a fitting room in Dublin.

Joseph Martin was destined for tailoring. From an early age in his father’s workshop he would be given simple tasks with remnants of fabric and tailor’s chalk. Bespoke tailoring apprenticeships in Italy and London were followed by studies in fashion design in Belfast. He then returned to his native town of Sligo to work alongside his father - who cut his last suit at the age of 90. “The best advice he gave was ‘always use the finest fabric, recruit and train the best staff and through hands-on quality control ensure the best finish.”

“I live and work in an area of myth and legend that has inspired poet and artist” says Martin. “Looking north I can see the “We may be in a remote location but we mist shrouded hills of Donegal where, for are a team of highly skilled people. The generations, tweed has been woven that quality of our tailoring is equal to the best reflects the colours of land and sea.” Our worldwide. My passion for the craft is fed location means that our overheads are by the tremendous satisfaction I get from lower therefore we can deliver the high- making a customer look and feel good, in any situation.” est quality at a very competitive price.

22

Traditional and contemporary designs

Joseph Martin appreciates fine quality British fabrics, such as Scabal’s Triple A, a blend of Super 120’s wool and cashmere mix. “While luxurious to the touch it has an underlying strength and excellent crease recovery, making it ideal for both business and travel. I particularly like the broad scope of the Triple A range; with its traditional and contemporary fabric designs it suits any personality, from the conservative to the more flamboyant customer who wishes to make a personal statement in the way they dress. Among my first choice for relaxation, naturally, would be Donegal tweed or Loch Fyne jacketings teamed with vibrant Scabal corduroys.”

Besides weekly visits to his Dublin fitting room, Joseph often travels to meet customers in Paris, London

‘My passion for the craft is fed by the tremendous satisfaction I get from making a customer look and feel good, in any situation’ Joseph Martin, Tailor

Joseph Martin’s workshop

and Luxembourg. As result of client recommendations, his international business is growing. “Kieran Thompson, owner of Newport House, was complimented on his tailor by a guest from Luxembourg,” says Martin. “Through Kieran’s recommendation I have gained a large customer base in Luxembourg whom I visit regularly for fittings. A good tailor should minimize the number of fittings needed, if they measure and cut accurately and in particular assess the client in terms of his self-image. My suits are normally perfect by the second fitting -but of course more fittings are done if required.”

Martin has a cross section of clients, from international industrialists and public figures to musicians and writers.

All are extremely elegant gentlemen who are as relaxed and confident in the business world or in public life,

as on a country estate or socialising.

They value their appearance on every occasion and appreciate beautifully tailored clothes made from the finest fabrics.

James Hamilton, 5th Duke of Abercorn epitomizes the style of Joseph Martin’s clients. He sits in the House of Lords, is a business director, and is the owner of Barons Court sporting estate. “The Duke has portrayed me to his friends as the ‘finest representative of bespoke tailoring in Ireland,” says Martin. “Tailoring for the Duke brings me to Barons Court quite often, where my fishing friend George and I breakfast with the Duke and Duchess.

After breakfast I do fittings of the Duke’s suits in the library and then spend the day salmon fishing on the Barons Court fishery on the beautiful river Mourne. Going home with a wild Atlantic salmon makes it a wonderful day.”

Joseph Martin 1 Teeling Street Sligo, Republic of Ireland.

T +353 7191 62257 /+353 876 686 095 www.josephmartin.ie jmartintailors@eircom.net www.newporthouse.ie www.barons-court.com 23

EnginE capacity: 3799 cc - Max powEr: 530 hp @ 6500 rpM - Max torquE: 710 nM @ 2250 rpM (in ovErboost, othErwisE 650 nM @ 2000 rpM) - Max spEEd: 307 kM/h - 0-100 kM/h: 4.7 sEcs - FuEl

acg Maserati nv Ijzerweglaan 101, 9000 gent

consuMption (coMbinEd): 11.8 l/100kM (23.9 Mpg) - FuEl consuMption (urban): 17.4 l/100kM (16.2 Mpg) - FuEl consuMption (Extra urban): 8.5 l/100kM (33.2 Mpg) - co2 EMissions: 274 g/kM

F.M.a. ertBruggestraat 108 c, 2110 wIjnegem Francorchamps Motors brussels chaussĂŠe de Bruxelles 54, 1410 waterloo

S cabal Au t umn- W inter 2 0 1 3 - 2 0 1 4 T rends

Modern British Luxury Suit: Gallery, fabric n째 801897 Shirt: pure cotton Tie: pure wool Pocket-handkerchief: pure wool 25

Suit: Gallery, fabric n째 801897 Shoes: brown genuine leather Shirt: pure cotton Tie: pure wool Pocket-handkerchief: pure wool

26

Chino: Weekend Collection Cardigan: pure cashmere Shirt: pure cotton 27

Coat: nubuck (hamster interior) Shoes: brown genuine leather Scarf: pure cashmere Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째500766 Socks: Merino Wool Cardigan: pure cashmere 28

Suit: Flannel & Saxony, fabric n째 702802 Shirt: pure cotton Braces: 45% cotton, 40% viscose, 15% rubber fibres, genuine leather clips

29

Jacket: Loch Fyne, fabric n째 852229 Chino: Weekend Collection Messenger bag: dark brown genuine nappa leather Belt: genuine leather

30

Fall padded jacket, Outdoor Collection Chino: Weekend Collection Shoes: brown nubuck Tie: pure silk Shirt: pure cotton 31

Coat: Outdoor Collection Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째 500766 Shoes: brown genuine leather Scarf: pure cashmere 32

Jacket: pure sheepskin, Leather Outdoor Collection Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째 500766 Shoes: brown nubuck Shirt: pure cotton Pullover: pure cashmere

33

Cardigan shawl collar: 80% wool, 20% polyamide Jeans: Denim Nice 1 Bag: calf leather Shirt: pure winter cotton

34

Jacket: Gallery, fabric n째 801906 Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째 500761 Scarf: pure cashmere Tie: pure silk Shirt: pure cotton Gloves: genuine leather, 100% wool lined 35

Jacket: Weekend Collection Skinny jeans: Weekend Collection Shoes: cognac genuine leather Shirt: pure winter cotton Tie: pure wool Pullover: pure cashmere 36

Coat: Weekend Collection Jeans: Denim Nice 1 Belt: genuine leather Shirt: pure winter cotton Scarf: pure cashmere

37

Jacket: Noble Tweed, fabric n째 801825 Jeans: Denim Nice 1 Shirt: pure cotton Tie: pure wool Scarf: pure cashmere

38

Suit: Flannel & Saxony, fabric n째 702802 Coat: Gallery, fabric n째 801912 Shoes: dark brown genuine leather Tie: pure wool Shirt: pure cotton 39

Tuxedo: Monterey Bay, fabric n째 702386 Cummerband, bow tie: pure silk Shirt: pure cotton 40

LEXUS IS

223 hp 99 CO

g/km

Follow Lexus on www.facebook.com/lexusbelux

2

SEDUCTIVE DYNAMICS The brand new Lexus IS 300h is a surprising marriage of luxury, dynamic driving and lower emissions.

With 223 hp to call on, this first hybrid IS emits from just 99g/km of CO2, practically no fine particles and minimal NOx. This gives it amongst the lowest fiscal (BIK) rates. Diesel competitors are left standing!

A dynamic luxury car that respects the environment? Typical Lexus!

Drive a new Lexus IS 300h from € 36.900, inc. VAT. Come see for yourself at the Open Door Days on June 22 and 23. Find your nearest Lexus dealer on lexus.be Lexus. Big Luxury, small taxes.

AVERAGE CONSUMPTION AND CO2 EMISSIONS: 4,3 – 4,7 L/100 KM AND 99 – 109 G/KM Environmental informations (AR 19/03/2004): www.lexus.be Vehicle illustrated with options.

41

SCABAL A ut umn- W inter 2 0 1 3 - 2 0 1 4 C loth T rends

AUTUMNWINTER 2013-2014 CLOTHS

Technical expertise driven by contemporary creativity has produced an outstanding cloth collection for Autumn-Winter 2013-2014. From highly desirable entry-level suitings to the most luxurious and refined specialist qualities, Scabal’s discerning clientele will find much to delight them in the new season’s selections.

By Eric Musgrave

Ultra Silk Siberia

42

JUST IN TIME

SLEEK

With very fresh and modern designs, this is a pure wool bunch that represents a new entry-level price for Scabal. The 320g cloths are of traditional proven constructions, but with contemporary looks that belie their cost. The 36 options, woven in Scabal’s English mill, include many clever weave effects, with silver-grey being a strong colour story.

This is a very refined collection that weighs just 240g, making it suitable for all-year-round wear. A marvellous 150’s quality in an 85:15 pure wool/silk blend, Sleek offers 24 new designs that run from the light tones of grey and silver to medium blues and navy. The silk and wool yarns are spun together so the lustre and surface interest normally seen with silk is softer than usual.

GALAXY Woven at Scabal’s own mill in Huddersfield, England, the 44 patterns are dominated by fancy designs such as shadow checks, colour weave effects and spots. Even in the plainer fabrics, there is a high degree of movement in the ground. At 280g, these superb Super 110’s cloths are excellent value and make fine-looking suits.

SHETLAND & DONEGAL

for novelties. Like so much of Scabal’s Autumn-Winter 13-14 collection, this bunch is colourful – lovat green, medium blues, a sky blue pastel, light beige and light green are all present.

A 320g wool-cashmere blend is very refined. A 280g Super 120’s quality uses worsted-spun yarns for a smooth finish. A 350g woollen quality lends itself especially to checks.

LOCH FYNE The latest Loch Fyne bunch has a beautiful handle thanks to its exquisite 100% woollen-spun cashmere yarn.

Solid colours are a particularly strong element, with natural cashmere, natural brown, very light grey and medium blues all on offer. Patterning comes in glenchecks, very neat overchecks and herringbones. Blue-greys are typical of the calm, refined colour mix.

Two favourite traditional styles of jacketing are updated in this collection.

The feeling is definitely rustic across 14 Shetland patterns and 11 Donegals, all in pure new wool. The Shetland cloths are 340g, offered in colours from light beige-with-blue to bolder rust-with-brown. For the Donegals, at 420g, the shades run from neutral SALT AND PEPPER beige, medium grey and black-andCASHMERE CORDUROY Twisting two yarns together before white to stronger blues, mid-green Fine cotton is enhanced with 8% cashmere to give this cloth a soft and weaving produces the subtle tones and dark brown. of this versatile bunch, which has a luxurious handle. The corduroy wales slight retro feel. The 29 designs are NOBLE TWEED are either fine or of medium-to-large predominantly black and white, with Produced in England, the 30 designs width, making the cloth suitable for the plains and medium checks set to represent British traditions respected trousers or jackets. With typical Scabe highly popular. At 280g-320g, this and updated. All varieties of checks bal brio, the colour range is bright is a versatile selection of fine suitings are present and correct in the 390g and bold, including gold, purple, red, pure wool qualities. Alongside the medium blue, medium green and that can also be used for jacketings. often complex patterns, there are bottle green, as well as all the dark TRIPLE A plain hopsacks in a confident colour classics.

Made in England, this collection of Super palette that extends from light beige, 120’s suitings with cashmere is unasham- light grey and medium blue to light ULTRA SILK SIBERIA edly luxurious. Among the 40 designs green, two shades of rust, mid-grey Expert finishing gives a doeskin-like are semi-fancy patterns, shadow stripes, and dark navy. surface to this new and unique100% herringbones, false plains and subtly silk 430g cloth. Designed for jackets structured weaves. These 320g cloths are GALLERY and coats, this exclusive Scabal quality concentrated around conservative greys A mixed selection of winter cloths is is available in a palette that varies and blues but the construction provides brought together under the 23 patterns from black and light grey to sky blue of Gallery, which are especially good and yellow. interest in the ground shade.

43

TREASURE BOX Platinum and 24 carat gold are the precious decorations in the new collection for Scabal’s extraordinary Treasure Box collection of ultra-luxurious suitings. It was in 1999 that the brand unveiled its technically advanced creation that saw gold thread woven within extra fine wool cloth. Platinum thread, particles of diamond and particles of lapis lazuli have been included in these amazing cloths since then. It was four years since the last Treasure Box collection was released; the new collection is more luxurious than ever.

There are 11 exquisite designs included in the collection, all based upon a first-rate Super 150’s merino cloth. Two designs use only platinum thread. Five are decorated with 24 carat gold. Four cloths contain both platinum and 24 carat gold. In previous collections, Scabal offered 22 carat gold also, but this time round only 24 carat was deemed good enough. All the cloths are based on twill-like constructions, ranging from a straight twill decorated with a classic pinstripe in gold to a shadow-striped cloth that has alternate stripes of gold and platinum. There is even a real herringbone design in the selection.

Given the precious decoration, the ground shades are suitably classic and restrained – black, midnight blue and grey are the choices. Connoisseurs of the most individual and precious suitings will want to open this Treasure Box.

44

GALAXY Star gazing was part of the inspiration for Galaxy, a brand-new Super 110’s collection that offers superb value for money. While this is a starting-price bunch, it is at a very high level of quality.

Woven at Scabal’s own mill in Huddersfield, England, the 44 patterns are dominated by fancy designs such as shadow checks, micro geometric designs, colour weave effects and spots, many of which were inspired by the constellations in the night sky.

Even in the plainer fabrics, such as a pick-and-pick, there is a high degree of movement in the background, in keeping with the contemporary feel of the collection. The predominant colour palette is classic, offering black, navy blue, royal blue, anthracite and so on, but a number of designs include subtle touches of fresh colours such as lime, ochre, violet, red, sky blue and turquoise, usually used for stripes.

The Super 110’s Merino yarn is fine, so the cloth is light and breathable. At 280g, the excellent designs of this versatile bunch make fine-looking suits that can be worn all-year-round in many parts of the world.

45

In peo p le we tr ust

Summit, a lifetime achievement ‘A passion for cloth’ - this has been Scabal’s motto and slogan since 1938. If behind every great man there is always a great woman, it is similar for magnificent fabrics, behind which are still hiding several major artists. Among them is Ian Wade, who has been with Scabal for 37 years, and who had the chance to take part in the development of the most sumptuous fabric, Summit.

He tells us his story.

© Scabal

By Ian Wade

Ian Wade, cloth man at Scabal

“M

46

my career, but I’ve never had the chance to contribute to the creation of such an exceptional cloth.

y name is Ian Wade.

I have been a cloth man in Huddersfield for 37 years, virtually all my working life.

We have been weaving the world’s best cloths here in West Yorkshire for many decades.The soft water running off the limestone hills made this part of northern England the ideal place for spinning, weaving and finishing. I am proud to draw on centuries of heritage and craftsmanship but blend that with contemporary design and technical innovation.

With Summit we have reached a new pinnacle of fineness. Our work began with the strict raw material selection. We spent more than one year trying to find the very best wool ever seen, and have visited so many wool producers in England, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia.

Finally our efforts paid off when we found an exceptional Merino wool bale from South Australia. This wool is a special, rare combination of various characteristics such as fineness, volume, fibre length, crimp and colour, which places it in a league of its own.

Scabal is recognized as one of the founding fathers of the ‘Superfine’ fabrics and through its own weaving mill in Huddersfield has been at the forefront of the development of the first Super 120’s in 1971 and the first Super 150’s, twenty years later. Pushing the boundaries of technology is a part of our DNA.

With best wishes, Summit is an indescribable quality, woven from ultra-fine rare wool that has Ian Wade been spun, woven and finished by crafts- Cloth Man at Scabal for 37 years men who are as obsessive as I am about quality. I have seen so many technical innovations and fantastic fabrics during

When I look at its superb lustre, when I feel its super-soft handle and when I look at its marvellous, natural drape, I can only think: Summit is my lifetime achievement. It is a rare masterpiece that will be appreciated by customers who really want the best. Summit is already a legend. See it, touch it and feel it and you will understand why.”

Summit, the finest pure wool fabric ever produced by Scabal Š Scabal

47

LUFTHANSA FIRST CLASS - BEST IN CLASS Unhurried, elegant, integrated. The new Lufthansa First Class delivers an unforgettable experience for the elite traveler, which seamlessly unites luxury on the ground and comfort in the air.

Opulence in the air

a stylish amenity kit by Porsche Design with La Mer toiletries, pajamas by Van Laack of-

First Class guests are escorted into the

fered day or night, and other little details all

intimate, well-appointed upper deck area

combine to present the traveler with a new

of only eight seats on a new Airbus A380

generation of First Class service.

airliner or the ultra-quiet private nose section of a new Boeing 747-8, directly from

A MEAL TO LOOK FOWARD TO

an equally luxurious upper-level First Class Lounge…the clean, relaxing lines, colors

A cuisine experience to match your cabin

and other design cues blend into a single,

comfort awaits you onboard. First Class

uninterrupted experience. Even the quiet of

menus prepared by luminary chefs such

the First Class Lounge flows into your on-

as David Bouley, Thomas Keller and Anne

board experience. Welcome the new Luf-

Sophie-Pic (to name just a few) and inspired

thansa First Class. State of-the-art insulation

by the iconic restaurants like the Mandarin

ensure relaxing quiet. Cabin humidification

Oriental, Miami’s award-winning Azul, de-

systems mimic ground conditions. The lat-

fine. Lufthansa’s approach to in-flight din-

est in privacy screens and curtains ensure

ing, and that tradition continues. Top som-

an unmatched level of comfort. The new

melier Markus Del Monego delights with his

First Class seats are not only capable of a

“Vinothek

Discoveries,”

fully flat position,

china

Dibbern

they are 80 cm wide and extend to 2 m in

geous canvas for your meal. Expect the

length using the ottoman feature. A scientifi-

finest caviar and European coffees, but

cally designed ergonomic mattress relieves

also remember to expect the unexpected:

pressure and delivers hotel-like comfort.

Lufthansa’s “Surprising Moments” service

The chair’s armrests automatically lower to

offers up the real creative seasonal tasting

add even more room around your upper

experiences, from single malt whiskey to

body. The oversize First Class cabin bath-

Octoberfest specialties to mulled holiday

rooms (with separate changing and lava-

“Gluehwein.”

by

and

serves

as

fine the

bone gor-

tory areas),

The Frankfurt First Class Terminal Experience

AMENITIES INCLUDE: - valet parking

Lufthansa First Class out of Frankfurt sets a new standard in passenger comfort and luxury. All First Class passengers with travel originating in Frankfurt can take advantage

control areas - two floors of lounge area with exclusive dining and bar areas

of a completely separate airline terminal

- oversize office units with Internet access

that feels more like aboutique hotel than a

- rest area with leather daybeds

busy international gateway.

- Porsche, Mercedes-Benz or motorcoach

More info on: www.lufthansa.com

scabal_ad.indd 1

- private check-in, security and passport

chauffeur service to their flight

07-Jun-13 15:34:00

Special feature

________________

________________

His Personality 52

His Tailor A-Man Hing Cheong Beijing

________________

62

50

________________ His Wardrobe 54

Mr. STRATEGY

Mr. Strategy His Convertibles

________________ 56

His Offices Contemporary simplicity

60

________________ His Next Experience To infinity‌ and beyond!

________________

________________ 49

M r. Strate gy

His personality Suit, shirt, tie and pocket-handkerchief: Scabal

50

Mr. STRATEGY and FABRIC N°602035

When it comes to choosing business outfits with a presidential flair, Mr. Strategy is inimitable. Being a true intellectual polyglot, he dares to make the difference with a premium quality such as fabric n° 602035. Light but warm, this high-grade Super 150’s Australian Merino wool offers you the best of all worlds. The fine twill makes the fabric weigh barely 280 grammes, a semi-milled finish gives it all volume you need in wintertime. Mr.Strategy loves this subtle mix of elegant appearance and comfort to smooth his many negotiations.

Being a typical leader, he values exquisite quality and comfort more than fleeting fashion trends. Contemporary simplicity is perhaps the best way to describe his class. Timeless designs with a modern touch such as his suit’s fine chalk stripe, correspond best with his stripped down diplomatic style.

51

M r. Strate gy : H is W ardrob e

Classic Winter

Accessories Mr. Strategy loves simplicity and efficiency. For him, the boundaries of casual style stop with moccasins and plaid shirt - but he always matches his tie, of course.

Ties: pure wool

Shirts: pure cotton

Shoes: brown genuine leather (left) and brown nubuck (right)

52

The creation of your storage.

www.armadi.be DRESSINGS - CUSTOM CABINETS - SHUTTERS - LIBRARIES

M r. Strate gy: H is Con v ertib les

Porsche 918 Spyder: Hybrid racer That Mr. Strategy acquired his telling nickname in his twenties was not entirely a matter of chance – he thought that keeping your money in the bank was for softies. Mr. Strategy preferred to go for a risky investment, or to buy an exclusive car that he was always able to dispose of later at a profit. Porsche is one of those brands that is ideal for this purpose – so, at the beginning of 2013 when Mr. Strategy learned that the Porsche 918 Spyder – the very first hybrid sports car from the iconic manufacturer – could now be bought, the twinkle in his eyes became hyperactive.

By Anja Van Der Borght

I

t is not yet possible to actually get hold of your own Porsche 918 Spyder; the latest prototype is still being tested, but Mr. Strategy can already order this super sports car with its extremely efficient and powerful hybrid propulsion system.

Racing characteristics

Porsche 918 Spyder

RS Spyder derivative

Just like the present Porsche hybrid models, the 918 Spyder has been designed as a parallel hybrid. The main power source is the 4.6 litre V8 engine of 604 bhp (450 kW), capable to reach 9,150 rpm. The 918 Spyder is also provided with two electromotors of approximately 154 bhp (115 kW) and 127 bhp (95 kW).

Power is transmitted to the rear axle through a PDK seven-speed gear box with twin clutch.

The relationship of the 918 Spyder with auto sport is apparent in many ways. A prime example is the unique concept of the four wheel drive based on the experience gained by Porsche in competition, specifically with the 911 GT3 R Hybrid. The rear wheels are driven by both the internal combustion engine and an electromotor, and the front wheels are driven by a second electromotor. The separately controlled front wheel drive will enable you to Record breaker take bends at extremely high speed. Mr. In full electric mode, the 918 Spyder Strategy is already excited at the very sprints from 0 to 100 km/h (0 to 62 thought. mph) in less than seven seconds and 54

in normal mode it takes 2.8 seconds.

In short, the Porsche 918 Spyder is capable of breaking many records.

However, it is even more significant that the 918 Spyder beats the competition hands-down in terms of consumption.

As a plug-in hybrid, it combines the dynamics of a racing car with a total engine power of 875 bhp (652 kW), with a consumption that, at approximately 3 litres per 100 km, is even lower than that of most current small cars! In other words, a Porsche of historic significance that makes even Mr. Strategy’s wallet quiver in his pocket. www.porsche.com

McLaren 12C Spider: Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde About time McLaren aimed at producing ‘production-cars’ again, after the very last McLaren F1 rolled out the factory in 1998. A shame really, if you consider McLaren to be the only car-manufacturer, together with Ferrari, to have participated in every F1 season since 1966. Any brand with that amount of experience has to be able to produce fantastic production-sports cars, Mr. Strategy thinks...

By Anja Van Der Borght

McLaren 12C Spider

Not just an open version

A

fter the glowing praise given to the McLaren MP4-12C Mr. Strategy wondered whether its open top equivalent would demonstrate the same qualities. After all, the McLaren 12C Spider is built on the same chassis as the coupé and has the same 3.8 litre V8 engine. However it is anything but simply an open version of the coupé.

Not only has the engine been boosted to 616.5 bhp (459.7 kW), which is 25 bhp (18.4 kW) more than the coupé at its introduction, but the engine sound has been amplified thanks to a cross pipe linking the two exhausts.

It’s all in the details

Mr. Strategy notices nothing new in the interior with the exception of two control buttons on the transmission tunnel, one for the roof and one for the rear window. He tries out the buttons and immediately sees that the McLaren Spider is equipped with a glass rear window that he can operate independently from the roof. Fabulous. When driving, it is particularly the operation of the gear box that strikes you. Gear changing is even faster and smoother, not that Mr. Strategy had anything to complain about with the coupé! And the ‘click’ made by the gear shift paddles sounds less mechanical and feels more natural.

Furthermore, the Spider is fitted with new rims that are also available for the new MY2013 coupé; and for both

cars McLaren chose a traditional way of opening the wing doors. The gentle sliding movement with the fingertips past the sensors under the door bulge has been replaced by the pressing of a button under the same bulge.

Facts and figures

The roof can be retracted at speeds up to 18 mph (30 km/h), and in 17 seconds slides under a hard protective cover in the same colour as the bodywork. The space (52 litres) under this cover can be used as additional luggage space when the roof is closed. Handy for coats and bags, comments Mr. Strategy, and a useful addition to the 144 litre luggage space under the bonnet. www.mclarenautomotive.com 55

M ister S trategy: H is O ffices

Contemporary simplicity Mr. Strategy has a weakness for contemporary simplicity, including architecture. This is probably why he particularly appreciates three offices located in London, Frankfurt and Beijing – all designed by three of the biggest names in modern architecture.

By JP Talbot

R

enzo Piano, Norman Foster and Rem Koolhaas have much in common. Together, they designed some of the world’s most famous buildings, including museums, airports, stadiums, embassies, theaters, office buildings and also ships and interior designs – Foster even set out to design a space shuttle. The inventiveness, vision and creativity of these three architectural tenors of architecture have earned them an impressive series of awards around the world, including the renowned Pritzker Architecture Prize, which recognizes a career of achievement in the art of architecture. They even won the award, which is considered as architecture’s Nobel Prize, in succession – Piano in 1998, Foster in 1999 and Koolhaas in 2000.

We pay a visit to their world…

© Sellar Property Group

Mr. Strategy’s office overlooking London

56

© Sellar Property Group The London Bridge Tower, also known as ‘The Shard’

A new cathedral in London Yet it did not have to wait for its opening to hit the headlines – upon the presentation of the plans, the building brought much controversy, which quickly earned it the nickname ‘The Shard’. From the outside, the London Bridge Tower is characterized by its extremely original pyramid shape, inspired by cathedrals – Renzo Piano with 11,000 panes of glass on the façade; The Shard reflects the sky and the sun, which constantly change its appearance York Times tower, and the new Palais during the day, seasons and weather de Justice in Paris. conditions.

While some of his works have occasionInside, its 72 floors not only house ally been controversial, this brilliant offices, but also a hotel, luxury apart- architect has always strived to create the ments, restaurants and a spa. There best possible symbiosis between a buildis also a viewing gallery and open-air ing and its environment. From his office, observation deck on the 72nd floor, at a Mr. Strategy enjoys stunning views of height of 244.3 metres. Needless to say, the capital, including another building this provides one of the finest views of that featured heavily in the news in 2005 – 30 St Mary Axe, nicknamed the the city.

‘Gherkin’. A project by Norman Foster, Renzo Piano, a Genoese architect born who’s also behind the Commerzbank in the 1930s, is behind this new sym- Tower in Frankfurt. bol of London. Following graduation, the young man took his first steps alongside his father and worked in Philadelphia and London before setSCABAL IN LONDON tling in Paris. A part of the high-tech 12 Savile Row, movement after the war, the architect W1S 3PQ London is passionate about the rehabilitation of urban outskirts and suburbs. He United Kingdom has provided many public buildings T. +44 20 7734 8963 such as Kansai Airport, Japan, the New © imaselect.eu

In London, the architectural event of the year was undoubtedly the opening of the London Bridge Tower. Overlooking the Thames and the heart of London with its 310-metre spire, the structure is now the highest in the European Union, just above the Commerzbank Tower in Frankfurt.

57

© Cambridge Jones/Getty Images Entertainment/ Getty Images

© Istockphoto

Norman Foster

The Commerzbank Tower in Frankfurt, Germany

The symbol of European finance Of all Norman Foster’s achievements, Mr. Strategy has most affinity with the Commerzbank Tower in Frankfurt. When it opened in 1997, this building was the tallest skyscraper in the European Union, and soon became the symbol of Frankfurt and European finance. 53 floors high, the structure was one of the world’s first green office buildings, thanks to the façade’s natural ventilation and the exploitation of natural light, which reduced its overall energy consumption by 50% compared to similarly sized towers.

points for village-like clusters of offices, providing places to meet colleagues or relax during breaks. Depending on each garden’s orientation, planting is from one of three regions: North America, Asia or the Mediterranean.

Born in Manchester in 1935, Sir Norman Foster, like Piano, is one of the major players in high-tech architecture. After graduating from Manchester and Yale, Foster founded his first office in the 1960s with Richard Rogers and their respective wives. In the late 1960s, their Designed by Foster + Partners, the office firm was dissolved, and while Rogers tower includes gardens on four floors, worked with Renzo Piano, Norman which supply fresh air to its central atrium. Foster launched Foster + Partners These winter gardens spiral up around which now employs more than 500 the atrium to become the visual and employees around the world. Foster’s social focus for four-storey office clusters. practice is now responsible for dozens From the outside these gardens in the sky of projects per year. Since its creation, give the building a sense of transparency the firm is behind many high-profile and lightness. Socially, they form focal buildings, including work on the British 58

Museum, Wembley Stadium and 30 St Mary Axe in London, and the Millau Viaduct in France, which is the highest road bridge in the world. And these are to name but a few, because the name Norman Foster resonates in buildings all over the world!

Aside from large architectural projects, his firm also has furniture and interior design projects, for example during 2007, when he worked with Philippe Starck and Richard Branson on Virgin Galactic’s spacecrafts (read page 62).

SCABAL IN FRANKFURT Scabal @ Savile House Hochstraße 56, 60313 Frankfurt Germany T. +49 69 91395126

© imageselect.eu

© Istockphoto

Rem Koolhaas

The CCTV Headquarters in Beijing, China

Television at work On the other side of the planet, Mr. Strategy is to be found in one of Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas’s most fascinating achievements. In Beijing, he discovered an office building whose designers defied the skyscraper’s typical quest for ultimate height. Instead, Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren of OMA architects’ office abandoned a two-dimensional style to promote a fully three-dimensional approach.

less support. The CCTV headquarters also facilitates public access to the production of China’s media: a Public Loop takes visitors on a path through the building, revealing everyday studio work as well as the history of CCTV, and culminating at the edge of the cantilever, with spectacular views towards the CBD, the Forbidden City, and the rest of Beijing.

Seattle Central Library, the Guggenheim Museum in Las Vegas and the Prada Epicenter Stores in New York and Los Angeles.

A special feature of this great architect is his role as an architectural theorist.

Capable of extreme delicacy as much as great strength, the architect strives to celebrate the unexpected in urban planning. Koolhaas is also key to the impact At first, OMA’s founder Rem Koolhaas of commercial pressure on urban change Rising from a common platform, the mainly worked in Europe, particularly – with Harvard students, he has conducted CCTV main building is made of two in the Netherlands, where he was born remarkable anthropological work. towers leaning towards each other and in 1944. Shortly after the creation of eventually merging in a perpendicular, the Office for Metropolitan Archi75-metre cantilever. The forces at work tecture (OMA) in 1975, he designed SCABAL IN BEIJING within the structure are rendered visible several projects that established his China World Mall 3 on the façade: a web of triangulated reputation – an extension to the ParNo. 1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue steel tubes - diagrids - that, instead of liament in The Hague, the President Chaoyang District, Beijing forming a regular pattern of diamonds, of Ireland’s residence and the Parc China become dense in areas of greater stress, de la Villette in Paris. Koolhaas is also T. +86 10 59 61 11 105 looser and more open in areas requiring very much present in the US, with the 59

M r. Strate gy: his tailor

Style is a Many-Splendoured Thing When passing through Hong Kong for business, Mr. Strategy always seizes the opportunity to visit his tailor A-Man Hing Cheong. Master tailors since 1898, A-Man Hing Cheong’s skilled craftsmen are always ready to present him with the latest collections of fabrics from Scabal.

By Joanna Pays

A-Man Ming Cheong’s store, in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel

60

‘After so many years in the tailoring profession, I still find it immensely satisfying to see our clients enjoy wearing the remarkable garments that we make’ Mr Poon, Master tailor

Mr. Poon

W

here else would one expect to find one of Hong Kong’s oldest and most renowned bespoke tailors firms than in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel? In a city in constant evolution, some things remain constant – such as the desire for craftsmanship, quality and style by discerning customers. ‘A-Man’ was a thriving tailor shop well over a century ago. It was only in 1898, when it joined forces with neighbouring store Hing Cheong that it became A-Man Hing Cheong and a national institution in Hong Kong tailoring was born.

Distinct feeling

A-Man Hing Cheong counts not only the glitterati of international businessmen amongst its well suited customers, but politicians and movie stars. Although discretion decrees that Y K Poon, Managing Director, declines to give names of current clients, former customers have included Hong Kong Governors such as Sir Edward Youde and William Holden, star of the cinema masterpiece filmed in Hong Kong, Love is a Many-Splendored Thing (1955).

A-Man Hing Cheong’s designs are based on the classic, conservative style of English handmade suits, often favoured by senior business and legal professionals.

“Most of our clients prefer classic colour schemes with dark blue, dark grey and stripes for business occasions,” says Mr

Poon. “Sports jackets with pure cashmere, tweed and lambswool are popular for leisure wear. My favourite Scabal fabrics are Super 120’s and Super 130’s worsteds, as well as their range of high performance wools. These fabrics are a pleasure to work with, elegant and durable.”

Y K Poon joined A-Man Hing Cheong some sixty years ago, as an apprentice at the age of 15. Many of the firm’s tailors have been his colleagues for 50 years, bringing a distinct feeling of family tradition and heritage to this prestigious firm. “After so many years in the tailoring profession, I still find it immensely satisfying to see our clients enjoy wearing the remarkable garments that we make. Some of our customers have been coming here over forty years and they now bring their sons and grandchildren to have suits made.”

A-Man Hing Cheong Mandarin Oriental Hotel Connaught Road Central Central, Hong Kong amhcltd@netvigator.com T: +852 2522 3336 61

M r. Strate gy: H is next e x p erience

To infinity… and beyond!

The sky is the limit, but certainly not for Mr. Strategy, who is always looking for new experiences, nor Sir Richard Branson, who has worked for more than ten years to create the world’s first commercial spaceline.

F

or Mr. Strategy, it all began in September 2004. His attention was drawn to an event at the Royal Aeronautical Society in London. Richard Branson and Burt Rutan met the press to announce the imminent creation of spacecrafts that would be able to take tourists into the beyond. A fad? Not for those who know the business spirit and determination of the British billionaire. Of course, it would take years of development, testing and even failures before they take tourists across the stratosphere, but the two men have kept their promise that Virgin Galactic will go down in history as is the first commercial spaceline to offer regular sub-orbital flights.

© Virgin Galactic

By JP Talbot

Virgin Galactic astronauts enjoying zero gravity

the rocket motor and the eye-watering acceleration which will have all on board, in a matter of seconds, travelling at almost 2,500 mph, more than three times the speed of sound. Through the windows, the blue sky turns to purple and then to black space. It’s time to And in fact, at the end of April 2013, catch your breath. The silence is now Virgin Galactic reached a new milestone, total. Then comes the long-awaited with its first supersonic flight over the moment – the passengers leave their California desert. The next goal – which seats to experience what they will is imminent – is to reach an altitude probably never experience again, of 100 km and move even closer to the floating weightlessly for a few minutes. realization of a dream.

Then, the law of gravity will ensure the spacecraft’s descent back to Earth’s atmosphere and the Spaceport runway.

Who could see life and the world in the same way after such an experience?

At present, nearly 550 people are already registered for a suborbital flight, costing $ 200,000. Reservations can be made at the company’s website...what are you waiting for? www.virgingalactic.com

62

Reclining Astronauts

© Virgin Galactic

But before being propelled to 55,000 feet, each aspiring astronaut will follow a three-day preparation course with the Virgin Galactic team. Then it’s time to take their reclined seats in the spacecraft. A moment of silence, then the roar of the engines, and the crew are instantly pinned to their seats, overwhelmed and enthralled by the howl of

© Virgin Galactic

Weightless

The blue sky has turned into black space

Past-Present- F ut ure

From a Beatle to Robbie

By Jérôme Stéfanski

Paul McCartney

comfortable wearing properties and quality make this cloth a great favourite.

Want to know which colours McCartney chose? Have a look on the Business Fabrics Catalogue at Scabal.com and enter these fabric references: 500914, 500896 and 500892.

Made with pride in Saarbrucken, Germany

Recently, ex-Beatle Sir Paul McCartney ordered three fabric cuts from the New Deluxe collection through his personal tailor, Henry Rose, London. New Deluxe is an established, elegant Super 100’s prunelle quality that satisfies all chic requirements – its great versatility, www.henryrose.co.uk

Scabal’s new capsule collection strikes the perfect balance between contemporary manufacturing and traditional craftsmanship. Privilege’s key pieces, a jacket, waistcoat and trousers, capture both modern comfort and artisan subtlety. The result is an elegant, enduring outfit that will set you apart.

Privilege is made with pride by Scabal’s German atelier, with all details hand-crafted by its special tailoring team. On the inside, you’ll notice the 63

hand-stitched seams and the unfused front panel with canvas made from horse- and camel-hair assures softness and homogenity of the jacket – its shoulder pads are constructed to offer more freedom of movement. All these finishings lend Privilege a refined aesthetic and unusual suppleness, without compromising its rich and full handle.

in the five- star hotel Kempinski Zografski, which was in fact not large enough for all those who wanted to congratulate the biggest producer of male garments in Bulgaria.

The event had as its motto: ‘Remember the forgotten values!’ – this was why the decor was a retro library, full of comfort and warmth, and the invitations were Privilege can be tailored in your premium designed to resemble small books. On Scabal cloth of choice. A wonderful col- stage there was a saxophone player and lection for the connoisseur who values dancers, and models wore garments produced with Scabal fabrics. comfort and craftsmanship.

Privilege is only available in Scabal com- www.agressiagroup.eu pany-owned stores. www.scabal.com/stores

64

www.scabal.com

Introducing the world’s Beijing opening finest cotton

Scabal fabrics in Sofia, Bulgaria

The fashion house Agressia celebrated its 20th anniversary with a fashion show

representing only 0.4% of total world production. From one bale of Giza 45 cotton, only 2% is selected for spinning this precious and rare yarn with its extraordinary characteristics such as fibre length, fineness and brilliance.

Yarn counts include 330/3 (three-ply) for the twill and 300/2 (two-ply) for the popeline and other twills. Scabal offers Giza 45 cotton as part of the Luxury Shirtings collection, an exclusive bunch comprising 47 fabrics, both plain and with decoration (stripes, checks etc). Only available for Scabal’s made-to-measure shirting programme.

Scabal has recently opened its first Chinese store in Beijing. The shop is located in the renowned China

Scabal is pleased to present the new collection of super-fine cotton fabrics in exclusive designs for hand-made, prestigious shirts. As there are different varieties of wine, there are also different kinds of Egyptian cotton.

The Giza 45 is extremely difficult to grow, but produces extremely long, thin fibres. This cotton is one of the finest that exists and comes from the delta of the Nile in Egypt (Kafir S’Ad),

luxurious atmosphere of a traditional English gentlemen’s club.

Scabal Beijing China World Mall 3 N°1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue Chaoyang District Beijing, P.R. China www.scabal.cn T. +86 10 59 61 11 1 05

Tailoring Days

Robbie Williams on stage with Scabal!

Robbie Williams is back. With 70 million albums sold, 17 Brit awards, a co-owner of football team Port Vale and even a mention in the Guinness Book of Records, this enfant terrible has been in the spotlight for more than 20 years. From teenage idol in Take That to respected solo artist, he has proven to be a consistently topflight entertainer. At the Brit Awards 2013 in London, Robbie wore a purple Scabal fabric 500919 from the New Deluxe range, made by tailor Spencer Hart. The same night, on stage he wore another electric blue suit made

by A. Sauvage with the fabric 500896 from the same collection. Recently, he ordered a new cut of red fabric 500379 from the Capri collection. His third suit made with Scabal fabric has also been crafted by A. Sauvage.

th

Following the success of the first Tailoring Days last spring, Scabal is happy to World Mall and offers the full range announce its winter edition, from 9-19 of Scabal products and services, October 2013. Tailoring Days are ten days including ready-to-wear, made-to- dedicated to Scabal’s craftsmanship and measure, accessories and fabrics. passion for cloth. A limited range of This first shop should be followed selected fabrics is offered. The perfect by the opening of other stores across occasion to order your next made-toChina over the next three years. The measure suit. This exclusive offer is store’s interior has been completely available only at Scabal-owned stores renovated according to Scabal’s new in Berlin, Frankfurt, Brussels, Beijing, design standards. Off-white, dark gray Paris and London. and brown cognac colors have been www.spencerhart.com selected to recreate the peaceful and www.scabal.com/stores www.asauvage.com 65

SCABAL WORLDWIDE COMPANY-OWNED STORES

AGENTS AND DISTRIBUTORS

CLOTH

GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES

LONDON (Flagship Store) 12, Savile Row, W153PQ London + 44–20–77 34 89 63 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com PARIS Le Printemps de l’Homme, 4th floor 61, rue Caumartin, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 82 40 32 scabal.printemps@scabal.com Scabal @ Savile House, 2 floor 5, Square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 66 93 59 laurent.mancini@scabal.com www.savilehouse.fr nd

Le Bon Marché 24, rue de Sèvres 75007 Paris + 33–1–44 39 80 00 scabal.bonmarche@scabal.com FRANKFURT Scabal @ Savile House 56, Hochstrasse, 60313 Frankfurt + 49–69–91 39 51 26 holger-gustav.meyer@scabal.com www.savilehouse.de BERLIN Kadewe, 1 floor 21-24, Tauentzienstrasse, 10789 Berlin + 49–30–219 18 530 andreas.oltmanns@scabal.de st

BRUSSELS (Flagship Store)

32, Boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels + 32–2–512 42 03 shopbrussels@scabal.com

EUROPE SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +32-2-217 98 49 scabal@scabal.com AUSTRIA +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at bulgaria +359-2-936 03 70 votan@votan.eu CYPRUS +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com CZECH REPUBLIC +420 724 342 111 rtoumi@gentryrow.cz FRANCE +33-1-42 33 08 93 scfr@scabal.com GERMANY +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de GREAT BRITAIN +44-207-734 1867 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com GREECE +30-210-67 27 431 dcon@otenet.gr ITALY +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com POLAND +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl PORTUGAL +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt ROMANIA +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro

RUSSIA Fashionverdict +7-903-721 0241 fv.uomo@gmail.com +7-495-730 2033 solstudio@bk.ru

SPAIN +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com +34-93 726 00 99 unikman@unikman.es SWITZERLAND +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_ suisse@scabal.com TURKEY +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr AMERICAs ARGENTINA +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar BRAZIL +55-11-3115 41 22 atendimento@erlu.com.br CANADA +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com CHILe +56-27 17 39 22 contact@holmes.cl COLOMBIA +57-1-256 3077 marsanti@etb.net.co DOMINICAN REPUBLIC +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do MEXICO +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx Scabal Made-to-Measure +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

REST OF THE WORLD AUSTRALIA +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au BRUNEI – CAMBODIA – INDONESIA – LAOS– MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES – SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM +65-6336 0133 heefabricagencies@hee.sg HONG KONG +852-23-762 535 fbfhk@fieldingbrownfinch.com. hk INDIA +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net IRAN +98-2188719269 tehranivahid@hotmail.com babaksanayei@yahoo.com JAPAN +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp KUWAIT +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com NEW ZEALAND +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES +44-7776-217691 faris@fmmercie.com south korea +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com SYRIA +963-11 2233986 +963-11 2222784 akkad-sons@gmail.com

U.S.A. +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com

BEIJING China World Mall 3 Nº1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue Chaoyang District Beijing , P.R.China +86–10–59 611 105 MOSCOW Scabal @ Savile House Studencheskaya st. 20, Moscow, Russia +7–499–240 1001 scabal@savilehouse.ru www.savilehouse.ru 66

N E X T I SSU E : J AN U AR Y 2 0 1 4

In the next edition of Bespoken, you will discover the new Scabal Spring-Summer 2014 collection. Reserve your copy, which will be delivered to your home, at www.bespoken.com or read the magazine on your iPad at www.bespoken.com/ipad

Raidillon, always and exclusively limited to 55 original masterpieces.

www.raidillon.com

A V A N T- G A R D I S T I C P U R I T Y

Relais & Chateaux La Butte aux Bois - Paalsteenlaan 90 - 3620 Lanaken - Belgium

BESPOKE CONTEMPORARY OBJECTS MADE IN BELGIUM

www.jochenleen.net