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T H E P R E M I E R P E T & AV I A RY B I R D M AG A Z I N E VO L 3 0 I S S U E 10 • AU G -S E P 2017
Major Mitchell’s Cockatoos
Red-lored Amazons Rock Parrots
Auroras FOCUS ON
ENRICHMENT
regulars
628 BREEDING AUSTRALIAN PARROTS: Rock Parrots By Barry Blanch
630 PET PARROT BEHAVIOUR: Flighted Parrots in the Home By Hillary Hankey
CONTENTS Volume 30 Issue 10
T H E P R E M I E R P E T & AV I A RY B I R D M AG A Z I N E VO L 3 0 I S S U E 10 • AU G -S E P 2017
Major Mitchell’s Cockatoos
Red-lored Amazons Rock Parrots
Auroras
COVER: MAJOR MITCHELL’S COCKATOO BY PETER ODEKERKEN
FOCUS ON
ENRICHMENT
633 FINCH FOCUS: Auroras (Red-winged Pytilias) By Russell Kingston 639 AVIAN HEALTH
WITH DR BOB: Environmental Enrichment and Foraging Activities By Dr Bob Doneley
642 ABOUT BIRDS:
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628
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Backyard Chickens—Part 2 By Kit Prendergast
646 BREEDER PERSPECTIVE: Red-lored Amazons By Andrew Rankmore
650 HOOKBILL HOBBYIST:
Parrot Yoga: Achieving Athletic Conditioning in Small Habitats By EB Cravens
654 FINCH FUNDAMENTALS:
Starting Out—First Steps to Keeping Finches By Marcus Pollard
features
Urban Dwellers By Dr Milton Lewis
617 WHAT’S IN A NAME? PARROTS By Clancy Hall Clancy explores the diverse and at times perverse naming of some of Australia’s ‘true parrots’.
666 CONSERVATION:
624 BREEDING MAJOR MITCHELL’S COCKATOOS
657 THE WISE OWL:
• WPT: Bonaire Reforestation to Protect Wildlife By Carolyn Pradun • LPF: Conservation Successes for the Philippine Cockatoo By Dr David Waugh
671 WILD CORNER: Nemo, the Australian Magpie By Dr Claude Lacasse 671 LETTER TO THE EDITOR
By Ian Ward
672 LAST CHIRP • Orana Avicultural Society Annual Show By Geoff Wheeler • Australian Budgerigar Society Has a Home at Last by Wayne Robinson
By Bob Branston Bob takes a close look at the breeding habits of a pair of Major Mitchell’s Cockatoos with a four-egg clutch.
636 VALE
Russell Kingston OAM
652 NATURAL ENRICHMENT By Nathaniel Coen Simple ideas to keep your birds entertained. 660 THE GILDED BARBET By Weltvogelpark Walsrode These striking South American birds are breeding well at Germany’s Weltvogelpark Walsrode, the only European zoo where they can be seen in captivity. 662 ALOHA! LAID-BACK BIRDWATCHING IN WAIKIKI By Ivan Cindric Ivan discovers the joys of being a lazy laidback birdwatcher in Hawaiian paradise.
674 classifieds 615
WORDS BY CLANCY HALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE PARISH
The Twenty-eight Parrot Barnardius zonarius, a member of the Australian ringnecked species, was once grouped with the rosellas
In the first part of this series, in vol. 30 no.8, we explored the fascinating history of nomenclature and how it shaped the way we describe species today, focusing on native finches. In this issue, I will take you on a journey through the naming of what some may call Australia’s ‘true parrots’.
I
t must have been a remarkable time for the foreign naturalists to confront a land with birds that presented nothing short of a palate of flying colour. As a result, it was not long before Australia was nicknamed the ‘land of the parrots’. It is important to mention that these are species, of course, that Australia’s indigenous people had named and enjoyed for tens of thousands of years beforehand. Sadly, only one derivation of an indigenous name survives today in this group of birds. It is yet to be determined where and when the word ‘parrot’ first appeared. There are a few suggestions offered by Fraser & Gray1 suggesting it may be the derivation of the masculine ‘Pierrot’ or ‘little Peter’, or perhaps a version of papegai which was later translated into English as popinjay. Another clue is in the naming of an individual parrot Perroquet, yet another
version of Pierre or Peter in 1395. Your guess is as good as mine! However, before we go on, it seems appropriate to visit the contentious issue of ‘what really is a parrot?’ Is a cockatoo a parrot? How about a rosella or Budgerigar? If you answered yes to all three, you are (technically) correct. The word parrot may be used to describe all birds in the Order Psittaciformes, which is really just a ‘bird nerd’ version of the term ‘hookbill’. Where species fall after this classification and what they are called is another bag of worms entirely. The taxonomy and nomenclature of a species is intricately entwined and complex in its evolution. Changes in 20122, made principally through molecular research, split Psittaciformes into three major clades or superfamilies: Strigopoidea (New Zealand parrots), Cacatuoidea (Cockatoos) and Psittacoidea (all other parrots).
The following list of names is presented in the taxonomic groupings outlined in Joseph et al (2012) and highlights the major radiation of species that has occurred in this group of parrots. When viewing a sequential list of taxonomic order, however, it can be easily misinterpreted. For example, you would be forgiven for thinking that because a Scarlet-chested Parrot is listed immediately after the Turquoise Parrot that they were more closely related than say, an Elegant or Blue-winged Parrot. This is not necessarily true because they are all sister species. Christidis and Boles3 describe it well by suggesting that a one-dimensional taxonomic list is better thought of as a three-dimensional hanging mobile, where the nodes leading to each taxonomic rank can be rotated freely. The first group we’ll look at come from the subfamily Platycercinae, tribe
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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY BOB BRANSTON
SUBSPECIES AND HISTORY Our pair of Majors are from the nominate te subspecies Lophochroa leadbeateri leadbeateri, which display a narrow band of yellow in the elongated scarlet crest feathers, with white tips. The yellow band d in the crest is wider and more prominent in the female, and with the redder eye colouration of the female, enables reliable sexing. This subspecies covers a wide area of eastern Australia from south-western Queensland and western New South Wales es to north-western Victoria and centraleastern South Australia. The only other subspecies of the Major Mitchell’s is L. l. mollis, which is spread across much of the inland western and central regions of Australia from the Eyre Peninsula and Lake Eyre Basin in South Australia, westwards. This subspecies generally displays a darker red in the crest feathers but with very little or no yellow in the red band in the male crest and a narrow, ill-defined yellow band in the crest of the female. The Major Mitchell's Cockatoo is widely regarded as the most beautiful member of the cockatoo family and one of the most striking examples of parrots generally. It has been called many names in the past such as the Pink Cockatoo, for obvious reasons. It was named in honour of Sir Thomas Mitchell, explorer and surveyorgeneral of New South Wales, who led several explorations of inland Australia in the 1800s. John Gould, the famous English ornithologist, gave the following description in his Handbook to the Birds of Australia, published in 1865: ‘Few birds more enliven the monotonous hues of the Australian forest than this beautiful species whose pink-coloured wings
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24–28 day-old chicks
and flowing crest might have embellished the air of a more voluptuous region’. But this species has also been called the Desert Cockatoo, because of its preferred habitat, or the Leadbeater's Cockatoo (after the British naturalist, Benjamin Leadbeater, whose name is used in the species' scientific name) and the ‘Wee Juggler’. The latter is believed to have come from the Aboriginal name for the bird, ‘wijagala’, or ‘weejee galah’, as early Australian bushmen called it. Wijagala is from the language of the Wiridjuri people, the largest Aboriginal group in New South Wales, occupying an area from the Blue Mountains in the east to Hay in the west, north to Nyngan and south to Albury. BREEDING OBSERVATIONS Breeding aviary birds can be an exhilarating experience, although it can at times prove frustrating and demoralising. Regardless, the excitement that one feels when the chicks finally fledge and leave the nest is extremely rewarding. But what goes on between the female
disappearing into the nest box or log and the fledging of chicks? Obviously, eggs are laid and incubated and chicks hatch, grow and feather up prior to vacating the incubation and development chamber. However, most aviculturists rarely see what transpires during this often lengthy period. Too much interference in and around the nesting birds is generally not recommended and can prove disastrous, with deserted eggs or even chicks the sad result, particularly with nervous birds. Consequently, the best approach for maximum results of fledglings on the perch is to disturb the parent birds as little as possible and let nature take its course. Having said that, many species can become accustomed to regular nest inspections and provide an educational insight into the beginning of another life cycle of your treasured feathered friends. What follows is a descriptive and visual record of the egg-hatching and chick development cycle of our magnificent Major Mitchell's Cockatoos Lophochroa leadbeateri leadbeateri.
WHAT TO TRAIN The Recall Cue As mentioned earlier, the recall, or fly to hand, cue is one of the most important cues to teach a flighted te parrot. Whether it’s it to move the bird easily around th the house, retrieve it from an inappropriate place, build a trusting inappro relationship, maintain exercise, or keep the cue strong in case of emergency, it’s very important. It’s also important to keep in mind that every time you call the bird to the hand, it shouldn’t be to return the bird to the cage or playstand, but perhaps sometimes simply to give it a treat and allow the bird back to play where it had been enjoying itself. This way it associates the cue with positive outcomes. Stationing Another cue that was mentioned was stationing, such as on perches outside the kitchen to teach appropriate behaviour and what we want the bird to do instead of what not to do. Crate training and teaching the bird to enjoy going back to its cage are other important behaviours. Although not specific to flighted pets, this can be very important for maintaining good behaviour with full wings. A bird can learn to return to its cage on cue for a treat, especially if it learns there will be a new foraging toy (often something simple like goodies in a cereal box or baffle cage) or again, that it won’t be locked in, but asked to come back out for more fun occasionally. These behaviours are just a few basics meant to aid the companion parrot owner in keeping their flighted parrot on the path to success and health. When it comes to training, the sky is the limit, and more is more when it comes to building a positive, communicative relationship with your pet.
still arrange a supportive environment for appropriate behaviour. Offering several play gyms of varying heights will keep a flying parrot active and engaged. Many parrots that fly up and chew on woodwork can be kept busy with high hanging play gyms and enrichment that activate a similar behaviour. Keeping each play gym well
When a parrot has its full set of feathers, it can be allowed to expend energy in exercise, thus reducing the time available for, and need to resort to, less desirable behaviours
CONCLUSION Flighted birds can be iincredibly fun They do take to have in the home. T to train, extra care in the beginning begi and we need to learn lear to think about how we organise our o home and time. Each decision regarding the health welfare of our pets is very personal and welfa and deserving of our research and resources. The reward is a beautiful companion in the fullest expression of its natural state, encouraging us to enhance our own skills and abilities in the world of positive reinforcement.
SETTING UP A SUPPORTIVE ENVIRONMENT One of the final basic points to consider is how to set up the environment to keep the bird successful. After assessing and mitigating the major risks, one can
Play gyms can be store-bought or homemade. The key is stocking them with a variety of reinforcers, whether that is a novel enrichment, and/or the intermittent delivery of food and non-food reinforcers like contact calling, scratches, and interactive games
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stocked with enrichment that is easy to supply and fun for the bird will keep the bird from looking for ‘trouble’ in all the wrong places. Another important aspect of parrot keeping is an outdoor aviary. This tool cannot be understated in its enrichment and well-being value. From providing sunlight safely to your bird to an awesome full-on bathing experience, a proper aviary can be outfitted to maximise exercise and messy playtime. And finally, remember that a nobird day is better than a bad-bird day. What this means is that if one is feeling crummy after a rough day, but is still feeling obligated to let the bird out for snuggles and attention, if something goes wrong, the situation could end up with cross words or a stressful situation. Many times, in this instance, the best thing to do is leave the bird be. If an aviary is available, this is an ideal time for such a tool. But taking a bird out—any bird—can be a recipe for disaster, especially a flighted bird that can get into anything, particularly if we distracted from ensuring its safety are dis or want to be left alone. In situations like prepared foraging items, this, have some p and novel special toys, extra goodies, g items, and let the bird have a fun time by itself.
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FINCH FOCUS WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RUSSELL KINGSTON OAM
Auroras (Red-winged Pytilias)
A
ustralian breeders historically always knew the Pytilia phoenicoptera by its common name of Aurora or the Aurora Finch. It was not until the 1990s that people started using the correct common name of Redwinged Pytilia. This change was largely brought about by the sudden availability at that time of the Orange-winged Pytilia or Red-faced Aurora Pytilia afra and the Yellow-winged Pytilia Pytilia hypogrammica. The Melba Finch, or Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba, completes the Pytilia species available in Australia. While less colourful than Orange-winged or Green-winged Pytilias, Red-winged Pytilias are the most common in captivity in this country. So far as I am aware, the Red-billed Pytilia Pytilia lineata has not been available in Australia. Sexual differences in Red-winged Pytilias are easily identified. The red flight feathers of the female are less extensive than those of the male. It is the body colour however, that is more easily compared. Barring on the female is a brown-grey whereas barring on the male is steel blue-grey. It is virtually impossible to determine the gender of juveniles. IN THE WILD Distribution The fragmented natural distribution of the Red-winged Pytilia throughout Africa is restricted to isolated regions from Gambia, on the west coast, across central Africa to the borders of Kenya, Uganda and Sudan. Despite inhabiting areas around villages, it is essentially a shy bird that retires to thickets when approached by humans. The natural habitat varies from moist coastal areas on the west coast to dry savanna in the majority of its range. Acacia trees, thickets and tall grasses provide protection, roosting places and nest sites. When threatened, Red-winged Pytilias sit stock still with the tail raised (wren-like). One often sees this behaviour in captivity. Nesting Red-winged Pytilias are solitary nesters. Any interference with the nest usually results in its abandonment. The nesting period occurs from September through February. A dome-shaped nest is
Red-winged Pytilia male—note the steel blue-grey body barring
Red-winged Pytilia female—note the brown-grey body barring
constructed in the upper foliage of bushes, up to 2m in height. Various grasses and soft foliage form the outer walls, while the nest chamber is lined with feathers. When one of the parents leaves the nest, they often return with soft feathers that are used to reinforce the lining. This species tends to lay fewer eggs than the Green-winged species. Generally 3–4 white unmarked eggs are laid and incubated over a 13-day period. Both parents carry out incubation, with the female usually doing the night shift and the male the majority of the daylight hours. Chicks are darkskinned with pale down. Fledging occurs at
approximately 20 days old, by which time the youngsters are weaned. Juveniles are more brown in colour. Nest hygiene is not practised. Nonbreeding birds roost in a high position in trees. The Red-winged Pytilia is the specific host of the Exclamatory Paradise Whydah Vidua interjecta. Unlike most parasitic species, this whydah does not eject the Pytilia’s eggs but lays its eggs in with those of the Pytilia. The Red-winged Pytilia then raise both their own young and those of the Exclamatory Paradise Whydah.
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ABOUT BIRDS... WORDS BY KIT PRENDERGAST BA BSc (Hons) PHOTOGRAPHS BY www.backyardchickencoops.com.au
Backyard Chickens Part 2 In Part 1 of Backyard Chickens, Kit looked at the grim life and death of chickens in the poultry industry. In this issue she examines the benefits, to both you and the chickens, of keeping a backyard flock. HUSBANDRY Housing Hens naturally like to nest in secluded places. They are deprived of doing so in factory farms, but you can provide various discrete, private, enclosed nesting places, out of reach of foxes, rats, and the elements. Providing numerous locations around the yard is ideal, and also makes it a fun challenge, especially for children, to go on a ‘treasure hunt’ for eggs (an activity I fondly remember when I was a child, staying at my grandfather’s property in rural Tasmania). Having a number of safe places to nest keeps hens happy. (Battery hens are known to pace and display agitated behaviours owing to a lack of nesting opportunities.) Chickens are housed in coops (‘chook houses’). These are commercially available in a range of sizes and designs. Building a coop is also a fun activity for those keen on diy. Coops can also be created by ‘refurbishing’ backyard sheds or cubby houses. Locate the coop in a shaded spot out of direct sun and protected from the elements. An east-facing coop is recommended because it receives the morning warmth and the front does not face cold, wet westerly winds. Insulated walls are recommended. Coop size depends on the number of chickens. It is recommended that there should be 1.1sqm of floor space per chicken. Coops must be warm, dry and protected from draughts but also well-ventilated (with windows and one or two doors to prevent ‘traffic jams’). Line the floor with dry material like wood shavings, sawdust or straw to a depth of at least 8cm. Chickens like to perch at night, so having multiple levels or installing perches about 30cm off the ground is recommended. Perches can be made from old timber or sturdy tree branches, ideally 4–5cm wide. Nesting boxes are required for hens to lay eggs. These can be fashioned from wooden boxes or even old lawn mower
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A range of chicken coop designs are available for housing backyard chickens, as are the variety of chicken breeds
leaf-catchers, and lined with straw. Hens prefer to nest in safe, secluded locations. Make sure there are plenty of roosting and nesting spaces, as a chicken can become very attached to her particular roosting or nesting spot and will defend her territory against others. Coops should be cleaned (swept, bedding changed, hosed and disinfected) weekly. Soiled bedding must be removed and replaced, because damp bedding can cause pathogens to proliferate, and accumulated chicken droppings produce high levels of toxic ammonia, which can severely harm a chicken’s health. Chickens also need ample outdoor space. Having a fully enclosed predatorproof straw yard around the coop is highly recommended. This allows your chooks to forage without fear of being harmed when you are out for an extended period of time. Food scraps can be thrown directly into the straw yard as forage. By working the straw, chooks create a rich organic
matter that can be collected and used as mulch/compost on gardens. Chooks can be allowed full access to your garden, or you can limit where they range by creating a fenced 1.8m-high run. It is advisable to rotate chickens around different areas of the garden, especially if you have numerous chickens, to ensure that they do not overwork the soil. As they go about their daily activities, chooks will keep the grass down, fertilise the lawn and any plants, including fruit trees, and control weeds and insects. Bushes and trees are required to provide shade. Fruit trees are the best option, as they will be fertilised by the chickens’ excrement, and may provide food for the chickens when ripe fruits drop to the ground. Do not apply herbicides—these can be toxic to chickens. (Besides, chickens not only remove weeds, many weeds are highly nutritious for them.) Chickens should have access to an area of dry soil to dust-bathe, which not only do they love but also removes poultry lice.
BREEDER PERSPECTIVE WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW RANKMORE
Red-lored Amazons indiscriminately among or adjacent to other species of birds, affecting their willingness to breed. My own pair of birds was acquired as mature individuals and show signs of past housing issues, with a couple of nails/end of a toe missing, and ligament scars from fighting with other birds. This is confusing due to the extreme value of such birds in Australia, and goes to show that people’s attitudes and approach to this hobby can, and will, surprise you.
I
Red-lored Amazon pair
n the wild, the Red-lored Amazon Amazona autumnalis exists in the lowland forest areas of Eastern Mexico, with a range that extends towards Northern Nicaragua, following the Caribbean Coast of South America. Reports state that the species prefers broken forest and landscapes that are semi-open in nature, including agricultural land. In Australia the Red-lored Amazon represents one of the rarer and more attractive Amazons on the market. With its striking facial markings and medium size, it offers a unique and colourful addition to the collections of the relatively few breeders who keep it. These tend to be more serious facilities due to the Redlored Amazon’s commanding price, with few reports of regular breeding, and some difficulty being experienced in acquiring unrelated pairs. Surprisingly, this species has established feral populations within California in the United States, suggesting that the value of these birds in America is not high, with owners potentially releasing birds, and/or escapees not being of sufficient monetary value to justify recapture. DESCRIPTION The Red-lored Amazon can be identified by the blue feathers on the crown, sometimes extending down the nape,
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and the red forehead after which it was named. The yellow on the lores and cheeks varies between subspecies and the individual, as does the amount of blue on the crown and nape. Typically, the birds are 30–35cm in length and weigh 300–470g. The species is sexually monomorphic and therefore DNA or surgical sexing is required to definitively determine the sex of individuals. Juvenile birds have a dark iris and greyish beak. They show less defined head colour in the red and yellow components than a mature individual, leaving them a largely green bird that develops full colours progressively until mature. Sexual maturity is generally considered to be around three years of age but nesting and fertility success often does not occur until approximately the five-year mark, although there are exceptions. HOUSING Both suspended and conventional aviaries suit this species, and overseas experiences have indicated that the Redlored Amazon permits some flexibility in husbandry with successful results. Our successes in Australia are nowhere near those experienced in the USA or Europe, and I cannot definitively say why. I suspect that the constrained gene pool may result in a greater number of infertile eggs, and possibly many birds are being kept by high-end collectors who place them
DIET No special or unique diet is required for Amazons, with variety and quality of food the basis for any regime. The only detrimental diet is one that is limited, and although many have written about a seedonly diet being bad, one must consider a fruit or vegetable diet to be equally bad in the long term due to the lack of fat and protein. A balance must be struck and adhered to and, while taking a small amount of effort, this ensures the longterm health and longevity of your birds. BREEDING NOTES Members of the Amazona genus are seasonal breeders, with individual pairs tending to nest at the same time every year once established. For Australian aviculturists, the Amazon breeding season spans from August to November, with few exceptions. An extensive variety of cage sizes and designs has proven successful with most, if not all, species of Amazon. From personal experience and observation, the main key to success with Amazons appears to be the strength of the pair bond, or rather the compatibility the birds have with each other. Remaining husbandry factors primarily act to support breeding activities. Compatibility My Red-lored Amazons have demonstrated that the male can be extremely aggressive towards the female. Upon first introductions, I was lucky to get the female out of the aviary alive, with the male attempting to kill her as soon as I was absent from sight. Through consideration and using techniques adapted from aquarium experiences, I kept the male in a smaller pet cage within the larger aviary that housed the female.
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