Sneak preview python book

A Guide to…

Australian

PYTHONS

in Captivity

By Adam Elliott

SNEAK PREVIEW

J BATTAGLIA J POULSEN

Jungle Carpet x Green Tree Python

Green Tree Python x Jaguar Coastal Carpet Python

page 25

S EIPPER T KEOGAN

Jungle Carpet Python x Jaguar Coastal Carpet Python

Carpet Python x Boelen’s Python

page 26

S EIPPER

Albino Top End Carpet Python

Paradox albino Top End Carpet Python

page 35

NUYTEN REPTILES S EIPPER

Albino Black-headed Python

Gold Chin Black-headed Python

page 37

J WEIGEL J WEIGEL

Albino Spotted Python

Albino Spotted Python

page 39

SLOUGHING All animals, including pythons, shed skin as they grow. While most animals simply shed skin cells, pythons shed the whole outer layer of their skin in one piece. This process is known as sloughing.

Note the blue colour of this python's eye—a sign it is about to shed skin

All snakes should shed in a complete piece.

Failure to do so can indicate husbandry problems

This Stimson’s Python lost the end of its tail due to constriction from a bad skin shed

page 56

E ELLIOTT

Hooking a python to remove from an enclosure prior to free-handling

page 60

E ELLIOTT E ELLIOTT

Once the python is out of its enclosure, the aim of free-handling is to support as much of the body as possible. Pythons hate to be unsupported and you will find that by providing support it will quickly settle and usually remain calm.

When free-handling, avoid quick or jerky movements as you may startle the python, resulting in a defensive bite.

The python can be allowed to slide forward through the hands. By constantly moving your rear hand to the front, the python will have the sense that it is gaining ground and getting somewhere, while all the while it is really only travelling from one hand to the next. Most soon tire of this and will quickly settle into a relaxed position.

E ELLIOTT

E ELLIOTT

Large pythons can be supported over the shoulder

A python will quickly settle when you continuously move your rear hand to the front and run the snake through your hands

Melamine terrestrial enclosures

Plastic terrestrial enclosures—the bottom rack has been removed to show the heat cord placement

TERRESTRIAL ENCLOSURE A terrestrial enclosure is oriented to provide maximum floor space for species that spend the majority of their time on the ground. It is pointless to provide a ground dwelling python with a cage orientated to maximise height that will not be used.

Terrestrial enclosures can be made from a variety of materials including wood, perspex, plastic and glass.

Incandescent globes provide the most common form of heating, however this really comes down to personal preference with most heat sources being suitable. Radiant heat panels in particular are increasingly being used in these types of enclosures.

Suggested cage dimensions for individual pythons are included in the Species chapters. page 67

HEATING HEAT LIGHTS Heat lights allow a python which is housed inside to bask and raise its body temperature.

Most pythons bask to some degree, with some species spending considerable time doing so.

A heat light should be installed to shine directly onto a surface which has a good heat uptake, such as a large, flat rock or piece of slate. This will give the python a considerably warmer basking area with a temperature considerably higher than the surrounding ambient temperature.

The most widely used heat light is the incandescent globe in either a bulb or a small spot-style globe such as an R63. (R63 is the smallest of the spot-style globes and while larger globes such as the R80 or R100 may be used, care must be taken to ensure they do not overheat.) In most cases the R63 in a low wattage of 40–60W is ideal, but this will be governed by the size of the enclosure and the number of globes being used.

A reflector dome will greatly enhance the performance of any globe used by directing most of the heat, that would otherwise escape, downwards onto the basking area.

Dichroic globes, used in down lighting, are an alternative to incandescent globes, have a far longer usage life, and are available in 12 and 240 volts. A fan-forced dichroic light made by Reptile One™ is now available.

This uses a standard dichroic globe with a small fan mounted behind it to help distribute heat downwards.

Whatever heat light is used, it must be of sufficient wattage to provide a basking area of approximately 30ºC. Heat lights should be mounted at one end of an enclosure to provide a thermal gradient from a warm end to a cooler end. Care must be taken not to overheat the area—a thermostat can be used to regulate the temperature of the basking area.

Many commonly available globes are suitable for python heating

The use of a reflector dome greatly increases the performance of globes

Fan-forced dichroic light

page 81

Note the size of the stomach bulge in this Coastal Carpet Python. It had consumed a prey item many times the size of its own head—in this case most likely a wallaby

NUTRITIONAL CONTENT It is generally accepted that it is unnecessary to add vitamin or mineral supplements to python prey items because they are a complete food source in themselves. However, there is an element of truth in the old saying ‘you are what you eat’ and any prey item will only be as good as the food on which it has been fed, so only buy food items from a reliable source or, if raising your own feed prey animals, vary their diet as much as possible.

The nutritional content of prey items varies significantly between species and also depends on the type and quality of food on which they have been raised. Most commercial rodent breeders use a specially formulated rodent food designed to promote quick growth and good nutrition.

If you are breeding your own rodents—or in fact any other food source such as quail, chicken or pigeons—it is good practice to provide as much variety in the diet as possible. This will ensure your prey items are as nutritionally balanced as possible. Alternating the food items you feed your pythons will help to ensure they receive a balanced diet. However, some can become fussy and refuse to return to eating the previous food-type when switched to a new one. This can result in a python that, for example, only feeds on small chickens.

Feeding pythons can be expensive especially if you keep a large number of pythons, so it is important that whole food items are treated correctly to maximize and maintain their nutritional value. page 87

TOP END PYTHONS

BREEDING

Green Tree Pythons mating

S EIPPER

As more people are keeping and breeding pythons, once hard to obtain species are becoming relatively easy to acquire and at prices within the realm of most people.

The ultimate goal for many people when keeping animals in captivity is to achieve breeding success.

The increased availability of information published on breeding pythons has assisted many keepers in greater breeding success. Having said this, however, breeding pythons is not just a simple matter of placing a male and female together and hoping for the best—both need to be in peak physical condition in order to breed. Obviously accurate sexing must be used to determine that you actually have a male and female.

Most species of python need to be 2–3 years of age for breeding to take place, but size is often a major contributor. Age and size reflect sexual maturity. In most species males will reach sexual maturity at 18 months to three years of age. Females may take longer in some species, such as the Olive Python.

A clutch of healthy baby Murray/Darling Carpet Pythons—the ultimate goal of most keepers

Centralian Pythons hatching

page 97

PROCEDURE FOR DISINFECTING ENCLOSURES All faeces, urates, substrates and other organic matter should be removed from the enclosure before using a disinfectant. Scrubbing with hot water followed by the application of a 0.15% bleach solution will kill most pathogens. All materials and cages should be in contact with the disinfectant for at least 15 minutes.

After disinfection, the cages and contents should be thoroughly rinsed in clean hot water to remove any residual chemicals. Expose enclosures to several hours of direct sunlight where possible or heat the empty enclosure for several hours.

A variety of disinfectants are used by reptile keepers. Consult your reptile veterinarian regarding the best disinfectant for your needs.

SALMONELLOSIS Many reptiles carry Salmonella bacteria in their intestinal tract and may shed these bacteria in their faeces. Salmonella bacteria usually do not cause any illness in reptiles, but can cause serious illness in people.

Humans may become infected through contact with reptiles or reptile faeces. Salmonella bacteria cannot be eliminated from the intestinal tract of reptiles, with antibiotic treatment proving unsuccessful. Salmonella bacteria may develop resistance to antibiotics, making treatment of infections in people and animals much more difficult.

It is therefore important when handling any reptile to follow these basic rules— • Always wash hands after handling reptiles or cleaning the enclosure, tank or pond.

• Never eat, drink or smoke when handling reptiles.

• Do not kiss reptiles or share food with them.

• Dispose of waste in the toilet, not the bath or kitchen sink.

• Do not use kitchen or bathroom sinks for washing reptile water bowls or other cage or tank items.

• Do not allow reptiles to roam in the kitchen, dining room, bathroom sinks and baths, to any area where infants are bathed or any other area in which food is prepared.

• Do not allow children under five years of age contact with reptiles.

Some Salmonella infections in humans result in mild illness including diarrhoea, fever and abdominal cramps. In other cases, the infection can lead to more serious illness. These severe infections are more common in infants and individuals whose immune system is compromised.

Follow instructions from your reptile veterinarian concerning a proper diet and environment for your pet, because healthy reptiles living in stress-free environments are less likely to shed Salmonella bacteria.

Unusual coiling may be a sign of neurological disease

page 107

Black-headed Python

BLACK-HEADED PYTHON

Aspidites melanocephalus

DESCRIPTION The Black-headed Python is known by many common names across its range including Rock or Tar-pot Python, in reference to the fact the black head gives the appearance that the python has stuck its head in a pot of tar.

A boldly patterned python with a pale yellowish background overlaid with dark-brown bands.

These dark bands may be edged in orange. A dark vertebral stripe or saddle is sometimes present.

The head and neck is a dark glossy black.

The Black-headed Python reaches a length of 2.6m, but most individuals are smaller than this.

Along with the Woma Python, these are the only Australian pythons to lack externally visible heat sensing pits along the lower jaw. However, if you look inside the mouth a heat sensing pit is visible behind the rostral scale. page 152

B BUSH

STATUS

IN CAPTIVITY

S EIPPER

The Woma Python is considered secure, although some populations in south-west Western Australia and New South Wales are endangered. Those from the Brigalow Belt of South East Queensland are also endangered.

In some areas, numbers have been affected by practices such as land clearing and the introduction of cattle. Feral predators also impact this species. In areas that have been fenced and predators eradicated, such as Shark A rare site indeed—a Woma Python from the Bay in Western Australia, Woma Pythons may Laverton area of Western Australia once again be increasing in numbers.

HOUSING An enclosure measuring approximately 120cm x 60cm x 60cm is suitable for housing most adults of this species. Some very large individuals may require additional room.

Height is of little importance for housing this Captive Woma Python from Uluru mostly terrestrial species.

A daytime temperature of 32–35°C should be maintained with the aid of a thermostat. Heating may be turned off during the night, allowing the temperature to reach ambient levels, provided this is not below 20°C. In particularly cold areas, a constant day and night temperature can be maintained or a day/night thermostat may be used to allow a small overnight drop in temperature.

Heating should be positioned towards one end of the enclosure so as to maintain a temperature gradient.

Providing some low branches and multiple hides will allow the python to thermoregulate and maintain its body at a desired temperature, as well as providing foraging opportunities.

It is wise to choose a substrate that is non-abrasive as this species likes to burrow and can easily damage its nose leading to shedding problems.

Alternatively, a small aviary or cage with fine mesh may be used to house this species outside in areas where this species occurs naturally.

An outside aviary or cage may still be suitable in areas outside of the python’s natural range if similar climatic conditions exist.

Juveniles may be housed in smaller Click Clack™ style containers providing that all the essential husbandry requirements are met.

DIET In captivity, a diet that is as varied as possible will help to ensure that your python receives a healthy and balanced mix of essential vitamins and minerals.

Mice or rats of an appropriate size are generally the staple of the diet. Large individuals may accept small rabbits or guinea pigs. Birds such as chicks, pigeons and quail are readily accepted.

These pythons are known as the garbage disposals of the snake world, and they will eat just page 158