BREAK FOR BREAKFAST INSIDE
A Twist on Breakfast 8 Egg Ideas For Breakfast Eggs And Bubbly: A History Of Brunch In Search For the Best Kota Breakfast APR15 | volume 2, Issue 04 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
Be Naturally Beautiful “Being happy, healthy and beautiful is easy with Éternel Concept’s lifestyle treatments.” - Ina Thomas
É TERNEL CONCEP T Jalan Gunawarman No.16, 2nd floor Kebayoran Baru - Jakarta Selatan 021.722.9502 | 0821.1060.3082 info@eternelconcept.com
P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E
Publisher (TA)
BREAK FOR BREAKFAST I have to admit, I am not a breakfast person. In the morning, I usually get up and rush to work without having breakfast. But upon hearing Jocelyn Halim, director of Slim Gourmet, talk about the health benefits of eating breakfast, I have now slowly started to eat breakfast. (We feature Jocelyn’s recommendations for healthy breakfast options this issue). Well, sometimes we do know its good for us, but still don’t do it. Hopefully this time, I can keep to it. That said, there are so many interesting breakfast foods out there, it spans the whole spectrum of healthy dishes to the all time favorites of eggs and pancakes. Indonesia too has a myriad of breakfast ideas. This issue of The Foodie will try to shed some light to this most important meal of the day. We visited Chefs Fernando Sindu and Ivan Wibowo, at their recently opened Benedict at Grand Indonesia to sample some of their all day breakfast options and oh what a full morning it was. We also visited one of my personal favorites, Monolog Quality Coffee Co. at Pondok Indah Mall to try out some of their breakfast fare. And the dynamic duo of Gupta Sitorus and Primo Rizky do a walking tour of Kota in search for the best local breakfasts around the area. In other sections: We have a scrumptious breakfast at TWG Tea Salon & Boutique for Finer Things. We also profile Dade Akbar of Warteg Gourmet and yoga instructor Hendri in Confessions of a Foodie. And Katie Nagar of Diageo shares with us some interesting breakfast cocktails in Tried and Tipsied. Hopefully this issue has you wanting to wake up a little bit earlier in the morning to have breakfast. Enjoy the read and let us know what you think.
Richmond Blando
Publisher Jed V. Doble Managing Editor
Kyle Gregorio
Art Director
Juke Bachtiar
Photographer
Dennie Ramon
Contributors
Himawan Sutanto Adithya Pratama Gupta Sitorus Primo Rizky Sahiri Loing Rafael Reyes Rian Farisa Rani Djoeir Cinnamon Project
Administration
Boedy Astuti
Distribution
Mukti Pelupessy
Happy eating! JED V. DOBLE
PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI Jl. Gunawarman no. 16 • Kebayoran Baru South Jakarta • Indonesia Tel: +62 21 2905 3959 www.thefoodiemag.com
BREAK FOR BREAKFAST INSIDE
A Twist on Breakfast 8 Egg Ideas For Breakfast Eggs And Bubbly: A History Of Brunch In Search For the Best Kota Breakfast APR15 | volume 2, Issue 04 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00
Photograph by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
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The Foodie Magazine is published monthly by Bold Prints Publishing. Jalan Gunawarman No. 16, Jakarta, Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine and its logo are registered trademarks of Bold Prints Publishing. COPYRIGHT 2015. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved. ISSN: 2355-0198.
C O N T R I B U TO R S
HIMAWAN SUTANTO
ADITHYA PRATAMA
Photographer
THE GUEST LIST GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY Writers
This dynamic duo has always had a strong passion for food. They decided to enter the culinary industry in 2012 by launching their handcrafted gourmet ice cream brand, although none of them had prior culinary experience. Both have day jobs, Gupta works as country communications manager for the global leader in power and automation technologies, while Primo, heads Studio Geometry, an independent publishing house that focuses on creative culture.
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Writer
Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.
After two diplomas in pastry and bakery arts, Adithya left the kitchen and began writing and styling for magazines about his one and only passion: food. While still contributing for magazines in Indonesia, Adithya is now living in New York City pursuing a degree in Food Studies while queueing for Broadway shows every wednesday. Join his mouth-watering adventures on Instagram @adith1801
SAHIRI LOING
RIAN FARISA
RANI DJOEIR
CINNAMON PROJECT
Venturing outside his comfort zone of office life, Sahiri now spends his time working as a freelance writer for the fun part of life. His love of movies and dining out keeps him busy in his spare time.
Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomy-aficionado. com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife.
A law graduate with a passion for dessert. Rani is currently making her way as an R&D chef for food products. She loves to write and take snaps here and there with her mobile. But she can always be found in a corner of a hawker stall or cafe, enjoying some good food and coffee. During her spare time, she is on a continuous adventure to find the best lemon meringue pie and espresso. She also loves to put her travels in writing at a blog called lesacperdu. com
A food stylist and food writer who loves to travel and explore traditional markets. She loves street food, always seeking for authentic flavor. She normally spends the whole day on cooking projects, just to fulfill her culinary passion. For her, food and cooking are not only about passion, but is also about sharing with others.
Writer
Writer
Writer
Writer
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
The Foodie magazine volume 2, Issue 04
Things That Make You Go Yum 12 Break For Breakfast
Publisher’s (Ta) Corner 14 Guilty Pleasures: Pinoy Breakfasts
The Foodie’s List 16 18 19 20 21 22 24 28 30
Caffè Milano Savor Australian Cuisine Saturday Night’s “Cicchetti” Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards Paddock To Plate Melbourne Food & Wine Festival Melbourne’s World’s Longest Lunch Satoo’s Signature Dishes The Embroidery of Life
Cover Feature 32 40 44 50 52 56
A Twist on Breakfast 8 Egg Ideas For Breakfast Breakfast Away From Home Eggs And Bubbly: A History Of Brunch Delivering Health In Search For the Best Kota Breakfast
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Get more updates and news on the Australian Culinary Trails 2015 at Foodie magazine or www.thefoodiemag.com @TheFoodieMag
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
Went There Ate That 60 Asian Breakfast in New York
Finer Things 64 A TWG Breakfast
Tried And Tipsied 68 Breakfast Cocktails
Taking It To The Streets 72 Pecel Kantin Sheila 74 Bubur Ayam Haji Jewo 76 Surabi Tradisional Cihapit
Iconic 78 A Delightful Morning Treat
Confessions Of A Foodie 80 Dade Akbar Ramadhan 82 Hendri
Maya’s Musing 84 Quinoa Breakfast Porridge
Tried And Tested 88 Jalapeno Chili Chicken
Stuff Of Legends 92 Linda Adimidjaja – The Branding Expert
Pantry 101 96 Pancakes Galore
What Chef Eats 98 Gianluca Visciglia
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T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M
Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best
by JED DOBLE
food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag
@_ muschel
@alex _ srichaiyapruk @annyew @authentic _ baking
@balicateringcompany
@belindon
@ccarlamiel @caralluch
@chef _ thomas @emgetshappy
@dnessnidam 12 | www. thefoodiemag.com
@hedihearts
T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M A Foodie starts their day right, with a hearty and healthy (?) breakfast. This month we highlight some extremely creative breakfast photos from our Instagram friends.
@ilse386
@jomanyee87 @meresnuttykitchen @ronalyni
@sw _ hev
@missbee1990 @travelingjezz
@peggy_gregorio
@thehealthyindulger
@wemeal @vickyc007
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P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R
Guilty Pleasures:
Pinoy Breakfasts
by RICHMOND BLANDO
If breakfast is the most important meal of the day, shouldn’t it be delicious?”
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he alarm clock rang at 5:30 am; I woke up with my hair standing up as I slept with it slightly damp from the shower the night before. Staggering into the living room and into the kitchen, I got my coffee, after which I opened the fridge to look for my first meal of the day, I saw the bread, eggs, ovomaltine and some cheese, I was ready to settle for a simple breakfast, but something stopped me. Maybe because it was Saturday or maybe because it was so early in the morning, I felt like starting my day cooking something for the family or maybe it was after the fact that I just finished the Manila articles for Venture and I found myself craving for something a little closer to home or maybe a little bit of all of the above. I have been saving some longganisa (Filipino sausages) and tocino (cured pork) in the freezer for future cravings for a Filipino breakfast so I broke out the frying pans and knife and soon enough the aroma of garlic and other aromatics filled the kitchen and the rest of the house. My family
members have often teased me of being a “coconut”, brown on the outside but white on the inside, because I had more of an affinity to western breakfasts like bacon, eggs, toast and cereal. But every so often, latent genes kick in and the memories of hearty rice breakfasts turn into cravings that are a bit hard to resist. My parents have lived here since the late 70s and while I was growing up here, and I never thought of it as a point of fascination then as I do today, my mom was able to learn how to create these processed meats at home and later on made a modest business out of it is something, to her, I
would tip my proverbial hat and thank her for my current stash of these staple Pinoy breakfast items. Like most people in South East Asia, rice is part of every meal of the day, and most of the rice used for breakfast (other than porridge) actually comes from leftover rice from the night before and many a breakfast items in the Philippines were cured meats recipes that were passed on by the Spaniards and later on tweaked by the locals. The theory behind the curing of such meats was so that they would have a deeper flavor profile but more especially so they have a longer shelf life Filipino longganisa refers to sausages flavored with indigenous spices, with each region or province having its own variation. Lucban is known for
P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R its garlic-laden longanizas, Guagua for its salty, almost sour, variety. “Longganisang hamonado,” by contrast, is known for its distinctively sweet taste. Unlike Spanish chorizo, Filipino longganisa can also be made of chicken, beef, or even tuna. Tocino is bacon in Spanish, typically made from the pork belly. The meat is sliced into thin strips and then cured for three days with a mixture of Anise wine, annatto, water, sugar, and salt. Both of these meats are served as the popular breakfast combination tosilog and longgsilog whose name is a portmanteau of tocino or longganisa, sinangág (garlic rice) and itlóg (egg, which is cooked either sunny-side up or scrambled). Today however, the first viand is always interchangeable with anything like, tapa (cured beef, mutton or venison) is tapsilog, hotdog (yes Pinoys eat hotdogs with rice) is hotsilog… you get the idea. Personally, other than the fact that this makes for a very tasty and filling breakfast, the greasy breakfast is the natural hangover cure (for those who partied hard the night before) and the presence of garlic is actually a very good agent of metabolism for that great “regular” feeling (the only setback is having garlic breath in the morning). Please contact The Foodie Magazine for those interested in tasting homemade Tocinos and Longganisas (contains pork).
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F O O DI E L I S T S
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Caffè Milano by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
The Union Group scores another win with the opening of Caffe Milano at the ground floor of the East Mall of Grand Indonesia.
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et amidst the booming newly renovated East Mall of Grand Indonesia and just a few steps from sister restaurant Union Deli, Caffè Milano conjures up the dining culture of Milan and Northern Italy. Caffè Milano has that authentic trattoria feel, and serves hearty and rustic dishes, classic Italian cocktails and has an extensive wine list. Caffè Milano’s décor depicts a classic Milanese trattoria. It is an approachable, comfortable space and yet refined in terms of materials and detailing, with marble and terra-cotta floors, dark-wood paneling and a cozy alfresco dining area. It is designed to welcome guests throughout the day, for a casual lunch meet, a relaxing coffee and sweets in the afternoon, and a perfect dinner venue with a buzzing bar later in the evening. The décor is simple but works very well. For those who are photography foodies, beware of the bright yellow awning which sheds a yellow tint on everything. Another highlight I noticed was their pizza oven. Each pizza is freshly made from scratch and as the oven is opened, the sweet aroma wafts through the restaurant. The kitchen is headed by Chef Luca Pezzera, a native of Bergamo, a beautiful city Northeast of Milan. His concept is to create simple and authentic regional Italian dishes, using age-old recipes passed down by his own family. “My cooking style focuses on the art of simplicity, using only high quality and fresh ingredients. I prefer to retain the authenticity of the dishes, with a modern touch,” says Chef Luca, For instance, the classic Aglio Olio Spaghetti is topped with Bottarga (salted and cured mullet roe), resulting in a simple and yet tasty and luxurious dish. Meanwhile, Chef Luca’s Veal Ossobuco alla Milanese is perfected from his years of
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training in prestigious culinary institutions. The veal is slow-braised for four hours before it is served with Saffron risotto and Gremolata, a chopped herb condiment made of lemon zest, garlic and parsley. The dishes at Caffè Milano are simple and familiar, but the sophistication lies in the ingredients and execution. His style of cooking has won Chef Luca a loyal following, previously at Scusa in Jakarta and subsequently at Bonta and District 10 in Singapore. We were able to sample a few more dishes when we visited. My favorite has to be the Vongole Spaghetti with batik clams from Lampung. It was perfect in its simplicity, flavorful and filling. We also sampled the Veal Milanese. It was a huge serving and perfectly cooked. The drizzle of balsamic vinegar reduction served as a nice counter-balance to the meat. Of course to end the meal, we had the tiramisu and the panna cotta, both were very authentic and traditional but sublimely hit the spot, especially for a sweet tooth like me. The Italians love their wines and cocktails, and meals are wonderfully punctuated with drink. At Caffè Milano, start with a perfectly made Negroni or an Aperol Spritz, followed by a refreshing Pinot Grigio with your starter or a simple but delicious Chianti-Classico with pizza, topped with a deep and complex Barolo or Barbaresco with pasta or meat dish. And last but not least, a glass of Grappa or Amaro after dessert. Their team of mixologists have been working hard to create the best classic Italian cocktails this side of Via Montenapoleone. Meanwhile, the cellar has one of the most comprehensive Italian wine selections in Jakarta, ranging from simple everyday-drinking wines to vertical vintages of the most coveted Barolos and Super Tuscans.
F O O DI E L I S T S
CAFFĂˆ MILANO | Central Dept. Store Ground Floor, Grand Indonesia, East Mall, Jalan M.H. Thamrin No. 1, Jakarta T: +62 21 2358 0638 | www.caffemilanojkt.com
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Savor Australian Cuisine by KYLE GREGORIO
If you have never tried chef Scott’s dishes before then this is the right event for you. Celebrity Chef Scott Webster will be cooking up a storm in RIVA this coming April.
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n conjunction with the celebration of RIVA Grill Bar and Terrace 1st Anniversary, enjoy an exclusive experience with Celebrity Chef Scott Webster, Chef/ Co-Owner of Carrington Place (Australia’s Top 500 Restaurants by Australian Financial Review) New South Wales, Australia and Osia Bar and Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore. A successful entrepreneur, chef Scott epitomizes the face of eclectic Australian cuisine and is the main powerhouse behind Australian Culinary Consultants, which has planned and developed dining concepts for some of the world’s major hospitality projects in London and in Sydney. Composed of healthy, light seasonal dishes utilizing fresh Australian produce, Chef Scott will introduce his innovative contemporary Australian cuisine to diners in late April. During his Jakarta visit, The Park Lane Executive Chef Deden and the Riva crew will support Scott during this juncture. Be sure not to miss this special dining experience.
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23 APRIL – WINE DINNER 5 course menu with Australian wine pairing Rp. 825.000++ or Rp. 750.000++ for Club Riva members & early bird booking until April 18. 24 APRIL – LUNCH & DINNER A la carte & Tasting Menu options, featuring table magic by Romy Rafael. 26 APRIL – BRUNCH MENU 11AM – 4PM With non-alcoholic drinks Rp. 325.000++. Half price for children under the age of 12 years old. Club Riva members & early bird booking Rp. 298.000++ until April 21. Celebrity chef and successful entrepreneur Scott Webster has pursued his passion for fine food and wine for more than 30 years across the globe. Chef Scott Webster was raised in a family where cooking and dining were important rituals in everyday life. Epitomizing the face of eclectic Australian cuisine, Chef Scott is the main
powerhouse behind Australian Culinary Consultants (ACC), which has planned and developed dining concepts for some of the world’s major hospitality projects. As the founder behind ‘The Masters of Australian Food and Wine’, a leading bi-annual gastronomic event held at the Crown Casino Melbourne, Chef Scott is continually changing the landscape of the Australian culinary scene. As a chef, he had the privilege of working at the legendary Savoy Hotel in London, UK, in Leysin, Switzerland at the Grand Hotel, and the prestigious Beverly Hills Country Club on top of his impressive career track throughout Europe, the USA, Canada and Asia. “International would probably be the most accurate description of my food since I’ve developed my own style over the years as a result of cooking on every continent. Having said this, my food has a genuine Australian feel about it, since I have a passion for the wonderful produce we can source in this country and I love highlighting its flavors and textures.” Says chef Scott.
RIVA GRILL BAR AND TERRACE | The Park Lane Jakarta, Jalan Casablanca kav. 18, Jakarta T: +62 21 828 2000 ext. 2008 | E: riva@parklanejakarta.com | www.rivagrillnbar.com
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Saturday Night’s “Cicchetti” by KYLE GREGORIO
Indulge in your culinary journey with iL Mare’s freshly made Italian tapas’ to add a twist to your evening.
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ocated at the ground level of Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta, iL Mare serves authentic Italian cuisine and every Saturday night from 6pm to 11pm, experience their very own newly crafted menu offerings (Cicchetti) put together by their Resident Italian Chef. Their Saturday nights have now been certainly transformed to special ‘Cicchetti’ nights. Particularly popular in the city of Venice, ‘cicchetti’ are frequently served in special cicchetti bars that dot the watersoaked landscape, with or without an accompanying glass of wine. These dishes vary widely, from olive-laced seafood spreads smeared on different types of artisan breads to plates of fried vegetables and cheeses. Choose from a selection of eight (8), twelve (12) and fourteen (14) distinctive choice of tapas during your Saturday night visit at iL Mare. An assortment of tapas can be selected depending on what you are yearning for, be it pasta, deep-fried, vegetarian or different kinds of meat. From Basil chitarrine with fresh tomato coulis as your starter, Gratinated paccheri filled with broccoli, tomato and mozzarella for your pasta selection, Gratinated asparagus with butter and parmesan, truffle vinaigrette for your vegetable selection to Prime US short ribs grilled with king oyster mushrooms for your meat selection, iL Mare surely has cicchetti some would only find if they were in Italy. Special supplements such as Caviar d’ Aquitaine, Chilled Canadian lobster and roasted scallops can be chosen as your cicchetti. You can even choose different kinds of cheese to accompany your tapas such as Gorgonzola, Taleggio and Fontina. And for those with sweet teeth, you can choose from Tiramisu, Bailey’s Panna Cotta and White and dark chocolate mousse, alchermes liqueur sponge cake. Longing for authentic Italian ‘Cicchetti’? Head on over to iL Mare at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta and satisfy your cravings. IL MARE | Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta Jl. Asia Afrika Senayan Jakarta | T. +62 21 574 7777 www.hotelmulia.com | E. info@hotelmulia.com |
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Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards by KYLE GREGORIO
Organized by William Reed Business Media, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list is an annual snapshot of the opinions and experiences of over 300 restaurant industry experts in Asia.
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sia’s 50 Best Restaurants is created by The Diners Club® Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, an influential group of over 300 leaders in the restaurant industry across Asia, each selected for their expert opinion of Asia’s restaurant scene. The Academy is divided into six voting regions: India & Subcontinent; South-East Asia – South; South-East Asia – North; Hong Kong, Taiwan & Macau; mainland China & Korea; Japan. The divisions are designed to represent the Asian restaurant scene as fairly as possible at the current time and are agreed with the Academy Chairs. Gaggan in Bangkok has secured the No.1 spot at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 awards in Singapore. Now in its third year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, revealed the 2015 list of winners at an awards ceremony at Capella Hotel, Singapore. Chef Gaggan Anand opened his eponymous Bangkok restaurant in 2010 with a vision to reinvigorate Indian cuisine by
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incorporating modernist cooking techniques. His passion, energy and creativity are evident in every aspect of the dining experience, from the colonial-style setting to the molecular twists added to traditional Indian dishes. Ranked No.3 at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards last year, Gaggan debuted on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2014 at No.17. Thailand is also represented by 2014 winner Nahm (No.7), Eat Me (No.25), Bo.lan (No.37) and Issaya Siamese Club (No.39). The 2015 list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants features eight new entries, including first- time entries from the Philippines (Antonio’s, No.48) and Cambodia (Cuisine Wat Damnak, No.50). China boasts 16 restaurants on the list, followed by Singapore and Japan with 10 and eight respectively. Ten Singapore restaurants were honored at the awards, including returning favorites Waku Ghin (No.9), Jaan (No.11), Les Amis (No.13) and Iggy’s (No.18). 2015 also marks the debut of Burnt Ends (No.30) and the
return of Osteria Mozza (No.45) to the list. Chef Tetsuya Wakuda has double reason to celebrate: aside from Waku Ghin’s spot in the top 10, he is the worthy recipient of The Diners Club® Lifetime Achievement Award. Congratulations to all the restaurants that have been included in this prestigious list. We foodies look forward to visiting as much restaurants as we can in the list and trying their world-class dishes.
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Paddock To Plate by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Alila Jakarta introduces a new range of dining experiences as Executive Chef Alex Ensor takes the helm.
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lex Ensor was recently named the new executive chef of the Central Jakarta property and was introduced to the media at an energetic five-course dinner. Ensor brings over 20 years experience in globally renowned properties to the role, including positions at New Zealand’s Huka Lodge; being named as one of the top 50 Australian Chefs during his time at Sydney’s Salon Blanc and working as Executive Chef with Master Chef Guillaume Brahimi’s award-winning Guillaume @Bennelong, Opera House, where he received his first Hat award and Australian Gourmet Pages ‘Dish of the month’ feature. Alex is no stranger to the Jakarta dining scene, having headed up the team at SHY Fine Dining Restaurant, the Buddha Bar and Potato Head Garage in the city. Alex joins from his native New Zealand where he has taken the boutique Theatre Royal Hotel in Kumara to new heights, becoming nationally acclaimed for its cuisine. At the dinner, hosted by Alila Jakarta General Manager, Patrick Murray, Chef Alex showcased his interpretations of 2015 food trends. The dinner also featured the comeback of Chef Alex’s signature duck breast dish, which is my personal favorite from his long repertoire of dishes. He also staged some new dishes including a Ponzu compressed watermelon carpaccio, Scallops with yellow curried cauliflower espuma and a Lemon curd with yoghurt foam. Chef Alex will be introducing new initiatives at the hotel, including his Paddock to Plate concept at Buzz restaurant, where he works with local farmers to source seasonal produce from around the Indonesian archipelago. Alila Jakarta will also soon launch its own
vegetable garden, growing everything from chilies and ginger to lemongrass in the hotel grounds, a sustainable approach that follows the Alila ethos. Signature dishes at Buzz range from braised oxtail terrine with cauliflower, scallops, edamame, shallots, chilli lime dressing and oxtail essence, sourced from Madura in East Java, to traditional Laksa of chicken, noodles and coriander from
ALILA JAKARTA | Jalan Pecenongan Kav 7-17, Jakarta | T: +62 21 231 6008 www.alilahotels.com/jakarta
Sukabumi in West Java. At Shanghai Storm restaurant, Chef Alex has introduced a new small plates concept, offering a Chinese tapas experience to guests, whilst Indonesian favorites will focus on providing a truly authentic gourmet experience. With Chef Alex’ return to Jakarta, we are excited to see more innovative and creative cooking in the coming months.
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Melbourne Food & Wine Festival by JED DOBLE photographs by DANIEL MAHON AND COLIN PAGE
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rom 27 February to 15 March, Melbourne was the capital of food and drink, as it was transformed into an enticing celebration of flavor, as some of the world’s best chefs, innovative winemakers and producers came together to pay homage to the city’s culinary spirit. Foodies gathered in laneways, restaurants, wineries, tastings, masterclasses and special events throughout Melbourne and Victoria to revel in food and drink. To toast the first day of the Festival, Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch gathered a record 1604 diners, including over 200 international visitors, at a 530 metre table for a three-course lunch in the leafy shade of the Fitzroy Gardens. The menu, designed by top local chefs Shane Delia and Adriano Zumbo showcased the exceptional produce that Victoria has to offer and featured 450kg beef and 4800 radishes, served on by 140 hardworking wait staff. This year’s festival hub was the Festival Artisan Bakery and Bar, a purpose-built popup venue at Queensbridge Square on the banks of the Yarra River. Each morning a team of top local and foreign bakers, including such superstars as Justin Gellatly, co-founder of London’s acclaimed Bread Ahead bakery and Eric Kayser of Maison Keyser in Paris, prepared an ever changing selection of baked loaves and goodies, available to eat in or take out. We were lucky enough to taste some of their salted caramel and honeycomb donuts, which were divine! The venue was a perfect spot to meet friends and have a cup of coffee from the city’s best roasters or a glass of wine from the best local winemakers. There were also an array of bread related workshops which made guests roll up their sleeves and start to knead. The Langham Melbourne Masterclasses hosted some of the world’s most inspirational chefs where participants could
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listen to, learn from and taste the creations of these masters. Justin Gellatly and Singapore’s Janice Wong both wowed their participants with breads and desserts. While Ruth Rogers of River Café London shared her Simple Pleasures concept of using the finest ingredients to make the simplest dishes shine and Jeremy Charles of Raymonds St. John’s Canada, shared his Taste of the Wild, a terroir driven menu based on foraging and hunting deep in the wilds of Newfoundland. Chef George Calombaris, of MasterChef fame, shared his secrets of the best souva which participants can recreate in their own back yard. The Acqua Panna Perfect Match series let participants to embrace exceptional and adventurous food and wine matches shared by the experts. Most of the matches were out of the ordinary and were pairs you would never have imagined before, each one, making the audience oh and ah in approval. There were also a number of international guest chefs who joined forces with some of Melbourne’s hottest restaurants for a series of never-to-berepeated dining experiences. Notable chefs included Rodney Scott, Eric Werner, Lorenzo Cogo and Ryan Clift, Jeremy Charles, Simon Rogan and many more. On closing the 2015 Festival, Natalie O’Brien, CEO of Melbourne Food & Wine said: “As we farewell our last visitors over the coming days we reflect on the incredible conversations, learning, memories and tastes that have consumed us and rejoice in the fact that this incredible industry lives, breathes and flourishes here in Melbourne, Victoria.” And indeed, my brief but fun-filled days at the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival put to fore the awesome produce and tremendous culinary talent of Melbourne and in my eyes, makes it truly deserving of the title Australia’s food capital.
Now on it’s 23rd year, the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival has been bringing together local and foreign chefs, amazing Victorian produce and guests from all over Australia and the globe to sample the best food and wine.
F O O DI E L I S T S
www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au
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Melbourne’s World’s Longest Lunch by JED DOBLE photographs by DANIEL MAHON AND COLIN PAGE
The 2015 Melbourne Food & Wine Festival was kicked off by the Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch, bringing together 1604 diners at the beautiful Fitzroy Gardens.
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hen it was launched in 1993, the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival had only a handful of events. The first World’s Longest Lunch was held at the Melbourne Cricket Grounds. Since then, the lunch has been held at different iconic Melbourne venues every year, from the National Gallery of Victoria to the Royal Botanic Gardens. To add fanfare to the first day of the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival, Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch gathered a record 1604 diners, including over 200 international visitors, me included, at a 530 metre long table for a three-course lunch in the leafy shade of the Fitzroy Gardens. The atmosphere was festive, with guest coming in their summer best, donning hats and sunglasses. The menu, designed by top local chefs Shane Delia and Adriano Zumbo showcased the exceptional produce that Victoria has to offer. Staffers took seven hours to set up the 530 meter table. A total of 70 kitchen staff worked 350 hours to prepare the meal, which was served by 140 service staff, using 5,394 glasses, 9,024 pieces of cutlery. Guests consumed 1,824 bottles of wine, 450 kgs of beef were used, together with 80 kgs of salmon, 4,800 radishes and 10kgs
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of poppy seeds. Malta born Chef Shane Delia created the Tassal salmon kibbeh neya, with harissa mayo, zartar and Tunisian brik, starter and the Roasted sliced grass-fed scotch fillet with smoked eggplant, preserved lemon and almond jus, radish and onion borek main dish. Shane credits his Mediterranean upbringing as being his inspiration for his fresh take on ancient Middle Eastern recipes. Chef Adriano Zumbo, one of Australia’s most well known patissiers, has five dessert stores in New South Wales and Victoria, but his infamous croquembouche which he created on the first season of Masterchef helped to make him a household name. Adriano created a flourless apple cake and kaffir lime rice pudding mousse, with yuzu syrup, honey, almond and apple tuile with fresh soaked apples for dessert. Now there are over 23 regional world’s longest lunches staged all over Victoria with people coming together to share local produce, local wine and local stories. Each year the Bank of Melbourne World’s Longest Lunch prides itself on partnering with star chefs who are skilled to serve a tantalizing and locally sourced menu. I can’t wait to see what they have in store next year.
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www.melbournefoodandwine.com.au
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Satoo’s Signature Dishes by RAFAEL REYES photographes by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
Shangri-La Jakarta’s SATOO all day dining restaurant has recently launched the signature dishes for each of their interactive live action kitchen stations.
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opular in the city for its wide buffet selection, SATOO has now released signature dishes for each of their interactive action kitchen stations. Chef de Cuisine Roxanne Castillo shares that the signature dishes are something to look forward to at each of the stations. “SATOO is a show kitchen and there has to be more action cooking, more a la minute cooking with more fresh options,” said the lovely chef. “Like going to your favorite restaurant for your favorite dish, we want our diners to come to SATOO and sample these specials at every station. They also remind our patrons that we have a wide variety of quality products per station.” These signature dishes were formulated by Chef Roxanne together with Executive Chef Marc Cibrowius. Chef Roxanne comes from a family of foodies. Her childhood was filled with great family feasts every Sunday. This experience has nurtured her love for culinary art and inspired her to be a chef. As a Filipino, she grew up with the rich and versatile Filipino cuisine. She studied at the Culinary Institute of America and trained in the Philippines’ well-known kitchens and restaurants. Chef Roxanne does not box herself to a certain type of cuisine. She likes to be creative and play with ingredients to create an exquisite cuisine, that’s why she is perfectly placed, helming the over 70 chefs at SATOO. “Being in the kitchen is my element, because I enjoy every single moment I’m in it,” said Chef Roxanne.
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Offering a culinary exploration of Asian and international cuisines, SATOO is an excellent buffet restaurant which attracts large crowds for lunch and dinner, especially on the weekends and holidays. The open kitchen stations offer a festive yet relaxed vibe which is popular with families and business people a like. The live action stations and their signature dishes include: Sop Buntut for the Indonesian Station, Prime Rib for their Carving Station, Herb-scented Baked Snapper for the Fish Station and Tiger Prawn Tandoori for their Indian Station, SATOO signature Dragon Roll and Miso Salmon Cornet for the Japanese Station, Marinated Wagyu Beef Satay for the Asian Specialties Station, Scallop, Tiger Prawn Vongole for the Pasta Station and Filipino Crispy Pork Belly (Lechon Kawali) for the Barbecue Pork Station. Aside from these stations, there are the popular Western, Noodle, Teppanyaki, Seafood, Salad, Cheese Station, Pork Cold Cuts Station, Grill Station and of course, the Dessert Station. They also have a Jamu lady on site, to prepare the traditional Indonesian herbal concoctions for diners to have. SATOO indeed has something for everyone. With its wide assortment of dishes and signature dishes upgrade, SATOO proves to be a great value proposition for a buffet meal because they have not increased prices. So if you are raring for a big meal and want to satiate a particular craving, head over to SATOO for the city’s best buffet selection.
F O O DI E L I S T S
SATOO | Shangri-La Hotel Jakarta, Jalan Jendral Sudirman Kav. 1, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2939 9562 www.shangri-la.com/jakarta
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The Embroidery of Life by KYLE GREGORIO
In line with Oscar’s cultural heritage preservation mission, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta appreciates Indonesia’s culinary through Peranakan cuisine.
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he Dharmawangsa Jakarta, in collaboration with renowned Indonesian fashion designer, Oscar Lawalata presented “The Embroidery of Life. Oscar presented his collection of Kebaya Kurung Peranakan, an ode to the life and social structures of the early Peranakan culture in Indonesia that began in the late 15th and 16th century. The Embroidery of Life showed the tapestry that was woven through the threads of past cultural legacy exploration shown in the present time. In keeping with the theme of the event, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta offered a wide variety of distinctive Peranakan delicacies, which infuse Chinese, Malay, and Indonesian influences into a unique blend and flavors. It blends the ingredients and wok cooking techniques of the Chinese,
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combining herbs and spices such as lemongrass, chilies, belacan (shrimp paste) and coconut milk to create tangy, aromatic and spicy dishes. Guests savored on tantalizing hot and cold Peranakan canapés including Sapi Chin (fragrant braised beef beef in dark soy sauce) or Laksa Lemak (rice noodle in spicy coconut sauce). There was a live station of Nasi Kunyit (turmeric glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk) served with Ikan Parang Sambal Belacan (fried wolf herring fish with shrimp paste chili), Beef Rendang, Udang Serundeng (dried shrimp and grated coconut), Ayam Goreng Lengkuas (galangal fried chicken), Telur Puyuh Sambal (chili quail egg), and Urap Sayur (Mixed Vegetable Salad with Spiced Grated Coconut) as well as live cooking of Kapitan Chicken Roti Jala (Malay
curry chicken with net bread), which was available throughout the event. For dessert and sweets, guests sampled their selection of Peranakan kuih (cake) such as Ang Ku Kuih (red tortoise cake), Kuih Bolu Madelaine (Malay sponge cake), as well as live station of Ice Kacang Merah (red bean with shaved ice). To conclude the dining experience, there was a Kopitiam (coffee stall) station and Wedang Ronde (traditional ginger drink with glutinous rice flour balls with peanut and brown sugar filling. “Our hotel is designed to celebrate the unique style of the Indonesian art and culture. We want to be uniquely Indonesian in character, and it is our desire to uphold Indonesian culture by preserving the richness of Indonesian culinary heritage,” said Novi Samodro, Assistant Managing Director of The Dharmawangsa Jakarta.
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THE DHARMAWANGSA, JAKARTA | Jalan Brawijaya Raya no. 36, Jakarta | T: +62 21 725 8181 www.the-dharmawangsa.com
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A Twist on Breakfast by SAHIRI LOING photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO
Who says you can’t have fun with your breakfast? We join chefs Fernando Sindu and Ivan Wibowo one morning to talk about their spin on the often touted most important meal of the day.
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here’s a tendency to position breakfast as the obligatory healthy meal of the day. Naturally you must start your activity with something energizing to keep your spirits up throughout the day like cereal or a bowl of—gasp!—fruit. It’s a coin toss for chef Ivan Wibowo: if he’s in the mood for something healthy, he’ll snack on a granola bar or muesli, which he now makes on his own since in Jakarta he can’t find his favorite brand from Denmark. “But if I want something a bit greasy, I’ll go for an omelette or french toast,” says Ivan with a boyish grin. Ivan is one-half of the dynamic duo behind the private dining service and pop-up group, Good for Eats. The other half is chef Fernando Sindu, whose love for bubur ayam or chicken porridge has made it into his staple breakfast menu. If on the run, “I’ll settle for a breakfast burritto.” There’s a bit of an yin and yang mixture radiating from these two when The Foodie Magazine got the chance to meet up with them again. Ivan is more reserved, and Fernando seems to be more the talkative type. And they certainly complemented each other, discussing food details—like the panna cotta with creamy soy and banana slices—like tech engineers tweaking a machine they just created.
Fernando and Ivan became good friends when they were studying at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in New York. After graduation, they both went their separate ways—Fernando worked as a sous chef at posh restaurants in New York and Bali while Ivan interned at the twoMichelin-starred Noma in Copenhagen— until they were reacquainted at a restaurant opening event. And thus the idea to cook up a pop-up brunch emerged, mostly because they feel that the brunch scene is criminally underserved in Jakarta. “We just thought that brunch is like a missing link here, and we wanted to bridge that gap,” says Fernando. They’re now busy running Benedict, the recently opened gourmet cafe slash restaurant at Grand Indonesia East Mall that specializes in all-day breakfast and brunch menu. “We’re not positioning Benedict as a breakfast place although we do mainly try to serve breakfast dishes,” says Fernando. “And of course we try to bring a twist to it in terms of flavour and texture. For instance the Mexican Benedict which we serve not with the commonly used tortilla, but with the bottom part using perkedel jagung or corn fritters.” Their other signature breakfast dish is the Egg in a Jar that has become a customer’s favorite. “Yeah, we’re just
BENEDICT | Grand Indonesia Shopping Town, East Mall, LG | Jalan MH Thamrin No. 1, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2358 1238 www.benedictjakarta.com | Instagram: @benedictjakarta
trying to give our customers a difference experience,” says the Semarang-born Ivan, “a different technique, different texture, and even a different temperature.” Just like an actor who doesn’t like to be typecast into one specific role, so do the two chefs. They dislike labels. “I mean, I like making a fine dining experience—there are emotions and pride that goes into it,” explains Fernando, “but I want to be able to do everything. Personally I prefer making what I call comfort food: food that when you eat it, tastes familiar while at the same time it tickles your taste buds.” “Basically we want to make all kinds of food,” concurs Ivan. When asked if they have plans to make breakfast dishes that are more rooted to Indonesian recipes, apparently the plan is already underway. “We plan to do a twist on the bubur tiga rasa (three-flavoured porridge) dish: a duck porridge with sous vide egg, truffle, and foie gras,” says Fernando. “And also soto ayam but with Mexican flavours.” Unfortunately he’s keeping mum on further details of these two dishes and when they will be available on the Benedict menu. Well, whatever breakfast delight he’s got up his sleeve in the future, we’re pretty sure that comfort food will be at the top of these two talented chef’s mind.
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French Toast with Bacon, Wild Berries, Maple Syrup and Salted Caramel Custard Ice Cream.
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BAKED EGGS WITH SPICY HABANERO SAUCE AND CHORIZO Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS:
2 pcs Eggs 150 gr Crushed whole canned tomatoes 10 gr Habanero chilies or birds-eye chilies, sliced
1 pc Garlic clove, sliced STEPS: 10 gr Onion, chopped • Heat up oil in a cast-iron pan. Sautee 1/4 tsp Dried oregano the onions, garlic and chilies until 50 gr Chorizo sausage, fragrant. Season with salt and pepper. crumbled • Add in the crumbled chorizo, cook 30 gr Canned garbanzo beans, until brown. Mix in crushed tomatoes fried and season accordingly. Cook for 3 1 tsp Fresh parsley, minutes. chopped • Crack in the two eggs into the pan 30 gr Feta cheese, and bake in the oven at 200 C for 5 crumbled minutes. 1/2 pc Baguette, sliced • Crumbled the feta cheese, garbanzo lengthwise beans and parsley on top of the dish. and toasted with • Serve immediately with toasted butter baguette. Salt and pepper, to taste Olive oil
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Soy Panna Cotta, Chocolate Pot de Creme, Mix Nut Brittle and Brulee Banana
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8 EGG IDEAS FOR BREAKFAST by CINNAMON PROJECT.
Even egg lovers need different sensations to enjoy their morning booster .
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ery easy to cook, inexpensive, and high on protein, eggs can be virtually found anywhere. Eggs can be cooked in many ways such as sunny side up, scrambled eggs or omelets, to versions flavored with bacon, onion, chili, and more. I’m such a big fan of enjoying the moist texture of egg yolks and the silkiness of the whites. Some of you probably still stick to the old way of having those egg dish for your breakfast. Trust me, there are infinite opportunities to use eggs with twist of different ingredients and cooking method. Start from these 8 ideas‌
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Denver Omelet
Egg Muffins
This folded telur dadar has been known as Southwest omelet or Western omelet (US). Sauté diced ham, onion, and green bell pepper in medium heat, stirring frequently. Quickly pour beaten eggs, cook for few seconds. Stir with wooden spatula to split the egg, cook in low heat. Twist with 1 tablespoon of grated Cheddar cheese before folding.
Experiment with muffin molds by combining beaten eggs with minced meat and match ingredients like chopped button mushrooms, spring onions, and grated parmesan cheese. Grease each muffin mold with olive oil, add 1/3 cup of muffin mixture into each mold. Bake until muffins are set. Serve with green salad and your favorite dressing.
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Scotch Egg
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Imagine a medium boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat and coated in bread crumbs. Cooking method? Deep fried! This is what I call a guilty ‘morning’ pleasure. Start with boiling the eggs, stir while cooking to make sure egg yolk stay in the center. Combine the ground meat, spice mix (thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper). For each scotch egg: Wrap the sausage meat around each egg. Make sure the coating is smooth and completely covers each egg. Dip each sausage meat-coated egg in the beaten egg, rolling to coat completely, then dip and roll into the breadcrumbs until completely cover. Heat the oil in a deep heavy-bottomed pan, until a breadcrumb sizzles and turns brown when dropped into it.
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Baked Egg with Vegetable
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Place 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small ovenproof pot. Fill with two eggs and any kind of vegetable available (asparagus, diced tomatoes, or spinach). Flavor with 1 tablespoon of chopped ham and sprinkle some spring onion, and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Bake at 200°C until the whites are firm, 10-12 minutes.
Egg Tortilla Sandwich If you’re spending a bit of time in the kitchen daily, and want to make something spectacular for your morning meal, try this challenge. A Tortilla Sandwich with scrambled egg, ham and tomatoes inside. Pan-fry a slice of ham or smoked beef on both sides, set a side. Melt 1/2 tablespoon of butter or olive oil, sauté 1 tablespoon onion until crisp golden brown. Pour 2 beaten eggs, quick stir, season with salt and pepper, make scramble eggs. To serve, spread 1/2 tablespoon of mayonnaise or thousand islands onto warm tortilla. Arrange ham, scrambled eggs, and few slices of tomato, roll up.
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Egg Ramekins Collect all your rarely used ramekins to make this extra ordinary dish. With the addition of cream, any kind of meat (sausage, bacon, ham), chopped button mushrooms, and of course, sprinkle of herbs. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until the white eggs firm.
7 Poached Egg in Tomato Sauce Heat 1 tablespoon of oil, add 3 tablespoons of a combination of onion, garlic, and jalapeños (could be 1 1/2: 1/2: 1/2) cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft. Add 1 cup of crushed tomatoes and their juices. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Crack eggs one at a time and place over sauce, spacing evenly apart. Cover and cook for another 5 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped basil and parmesan cheese.
Stuffed Egg Breakfast How will you be using up your bread tomorrow morning? Imagine a sunny side up with beef bacon, and herbs cooked inside a bowl made from bun. Using a small bread knife, make a round deep bowl in the center surface of the buns. Melt butter or olive oil, sauté ham or bacon and bell peppers, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add 1 tablespoon of mixed bacon into the ‘bowl’, crack an egg and top with spring onion or chives. Finishing, sprinkle with some grated cheese. Bake until the white egg set.
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Breakfast Away From Home by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Since opening their flagship branch in Plaza Senaya in 2011, Monolog Quality Coffee Co. has slowly become one of a favorite hang out spot for the city’s urban collective.
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have to admit, I have long been a fan. I fell in love with Monolog since the first time I entered and had a coffee. The sleek, warm and casual interiors transports you out of Jakarta. I felt shielded from the traffic chaos just meters away, outside the mall. It quickly became my office away from the office. I would have work meetings there, hang out with friends and would regularly come back for coffee and my favorite macarons. Over the years I have introduced Monolog to more and more friends, who in turn have made it their favorite café-diner. Because of its interiors, which pay homage to the easy open spaces commonly found in other urban cities such as Melbourne and London, I feel momentarily transported out of Jakarta, when I am there. I would come on the weekends for breakfast or brunch. Their hearty breakfast dishes are perfect to start your day with, or would be ideal as you chat the morning away into the afternoon. Monolog has become my go to place to enjoy great coffee and food, where I can feel relaxed and comfortable. As more and more people have come to love Monolog, the opening of their second branch at Street Gallery Pondok Indah Mall 3 came as no surprise. Located on the first floor, the larger venue, which can sit 170 people, boasts an outdoor patio and beautifully decorated island bar which emits a casual yet intimate social setting where
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fellow patrons can interact and have a good time. Monolog continues to evolve and provide more ways for us patrons to have a good time there. At the PIM branch on weekends, they light up the night with a cool mix of indie and funk music through the carefully crafted playlist at their DJ booth. Guests are welcome to hang out and unwind amidst great music until the wee hours of midnight, preferably with one of their signature cocktails. So when it came to finding a place to feature for our Breakfast issue, it was a no brainer. I promptly asked if we could come and visit Monolog. They serve breakfast all day, one of the reasons I adore them. I love breakfast food, but sometimes I am not up very early for it. At Monolog, I can have it all day! The selection is wide, they have a few sets which are big plates and can be a mouthful, but that’s the main reason we eat breakfast, is to stay nourished all day. I prefer their Countryside Breakfast Set, you get two eggs (any style), I like mine sunny side up, baked beans, sweet carrots, grilled veggies, beef bockwurst and whole wheat farmer’s bread. As I break into the egg yolks, I love how they run on the plate and I just mop them up with pieces of the bread. Sometimes, I like a sweet breakfast, so I usually order pancakes. When I was a kid, pancakes were a weekend treat. And
as I got older, I started to make my own pancakes on the weekends too. Now, I have to admit, I am lazy to get up and make my own pancakes. But they are still a treat I like having. The easiest is to head over to my favorite place. I order their Mixed Berry Yogurt Pancakes. This is reminiscent of the blueberry pancakes I would have at a local Manila pancake place when I was a kid. The Monolog version has a variety of berries plus comes with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and yogurt. Decadent and delicious. Another of my favorites are their croques. The Croque Monsieur is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich topped with béchamel. While the Croque Madame is the same grilled ham and cheese sandwich topped with a poached or slightly fried. I particularly like Monolog’s Croque Madame. Again, I love it as the egg yolk falls onto the sandwich, which I again mop up with the bread. Yummy! Monolog also has a wide variety of baked goods, French pastries and cakes. Special mention has to go to their interesting donuts. These are perfect options for those who are in a rush in the morning but must have something to eat. So for those who haven’t been to Monolog Quality Coffee Co., this is your chance to visit them at either their Plaza Senayan or Pondok Indah Mall branches. All day hearty breakfasts as well as some of the best coffees in town, how can anyone resist.
MONOLOG QUALITY COFFEE CO. | Street Gallery, Lantai 2, Jl. Metro Pondok Indah, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2952977 www.monolog-coffee.com | Instagram: @monologcoffee
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Countryside Breakfast Set
Mixed Berries And Yogurt Pancakes
Monolog Mimosa Bloody Mary
Monolog Croque Madame
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“What is the first thing you think about when you wake up in the morning? Breakfast, of course�. -Anonymous
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EGGS AND BUBBLY: A HISTORY OF BRUNCH by ADITHYA PRATAMA
From French Toast to Egg Benedict, Farha Ternikar guides us through the history and ritual of one of the most celebrated meals of all time: Brunch.
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runch is a term we are familiarized with for having eggs during lunchtime while conducting daytime drinking through sips from a flute of mimosa. Brunch has become more than a mere mealtime for many of us, but rather defines a ritual and a lifestyle practiced closely by us who live in a big cosmopolitan city like Jakarta. Farha Ternikar, a professor at Le Moyne College in Syracuse, NY had recently published her book “Brunch: A History” that deciphers brunch through the sociological and historical approach that makes it one of the most popular meals over the decades. As a sociologist, Farha started her study with the way gender shapes food practices, and along the way, she found greater interest towards brunch as it was shaped not only by gender, but also class, colonialism and globalization. FROM A HUNTER’S MEAL TO WEDDING AFFAIRS Although it began as a carnivorous affair of a post-hunting meal for posh English families or a luxurious meal for varsity students in the 1800s, the culture of having late
C O V E R F E AT U R E breakfast during the weekend spread in the United States during the 1900s as strong brunch traditions were established in New York City and New Orleans in the 1920s as a form of a gracious entertaining. By the 1950s, brunch had become a ritual every Sunday as a post-church meal or as an alternative to church. Brunch quickly developed into a leisurely social,
cheerful and compelling meal that allows working mothers and wives to have a more relaxed and minimized preparation for a meal. The laid back setting often allowed women to be more creative and experiment with dishes in the kitchen. The mealtime itself was considered to be a social time where families or friends and relatives gathered. The inclining interest for having home bars in the early 20th century had also contributed to the addition of cocktails in the brunch menu and promoting daytime drinking. As a meal of leisure and comfort as well as decadence, brunch then developed into a meal of festivity. Easter brunch and Christmas brunch became a common affair to celebrate the holidays, while Mother’s Day brunch was a moment to splurge and treat women to a luxurious meal they did not cook. By the 1920s, bridal brunch became a popular or rather a compulsory activity to do during the bridal weekend as a way to host out-oftown guests. The 20th century marked the popularity of brunch and it was officially declared by The New York Times in the 1939 that Sunday is a day to cut down work from three meals to two meals a day. Which quickly developed further into a rather more relaxed affair as brunch was often conducted by potluck or fondue parties in the 60s and 70s as a simpler form of entertaining. In the 1980s, brunch had developed and found a new form as a symbol of class status again through the giant buffets and hotel brunches that created the peak of popularity for brunch in many cosmopolitan cities. This consumption trend then followed and spread around the world through new money culture that was socially constructed as wealth status in many parts of the world. By the early 2000s, western brunch had been widely practiced through trends outside of America.
AN EFFEMINATE AFFAIR The popularity of brunch also originated during the Gilded age in the 19th century America when women started to host breakfast parties. The Gilded age, an era of a rapid economic growth and increase in industrialization of America, led to a display of wealth via conspicuous consumption. Women hosted breakfast parties and extravagant brunches as a sign of wealth as only the rich were able to serve courses of food during breakfast. In the 1930s, brunch was marketed mainly for working women through cookbooks with recipes for breakfast and brunch menus. The trend continued until the 1950s where brunch cookbooks were seen as in vogue and the industrialization of food started as food producers introduced convenience products in the market (canned, mix and premix) and making brunch as a rather humble and convenient way to entertain for working women. In 1967, Poppy Cannon –an American cookbook author in the 50s, introduced “The Can-Opener Cookbook” that promoted time saving and inexpensive meals, including a whole chapter on brunch, through the usage of mix and premix food. Also, Cosmopolitan magazine Editor-in-Chief in the 60s, Helen Gurley Brown’s “Single Girl’s Cookbook” that introduced an idea of a brunch to allure single men and even gentrifying the view of daytime drinking for ladies in the 60s. A recent example would be the portrait of brunch as a feminine affair through the eyes of television and pop culture. “Sex and The City” regularly featured Carrie Bradshaw and her girlfriends having brunch at popular Manhattan spots like Pastis or Balthazar’s at the series. Brunch was seen as an occasion for female to socialize and exchange news, stories and recent occurrence through the week at the series. The reference continued as popular shows like “30 Rock”, “Desperate Housewives” and “Gossip Girl” introduced brunch as a woman’s social ritual.
Farha Ternikar is an associate professor of Sociology at Le Moyne College where she teaches Food and Culture, Gender and Society and the Sociology of Food. She wrote articles on ethnicity and immigrant identity for few journal studies and had debut her book “Brunch: A History” last year.
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Delivering Health by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON
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ating healthy is actually easy, but try telling that to the people working at an office building near you. Constantly pressured by time they would take up any meal available nearby, sometimes consuming more than they needed due to skipping breakfast. “It takes a good 15 minutes for the gut to inform the brain that they are full,” says Jocelyn Halim, director of Slim Gourmet, “so that’s why people who eat too fast— and too much—can have episodes of ‘food coma’.” And thus the idea for delivering nutritious and calorie-conscious meals was born for those executives who are constantly on the go. One of the top players in Jakarta is Slim Gourmet that started in 2008, but the effervescent director just came on board about a year ago. The term ‘food coma’ might sound like an exaggeration, but Jocelyn certainly knows what she’s talking about. When we came to meet her at the Slim Gourmet central kitchen at Kebayoran Lama, she conversed passionately on the topic of healthy food, giving detailed information about the nutritional value of certain foods as well as giving us health advice based on her observations of her guests. (Noticing my slim frame she advises me to exercise after breakfast if I want to build muscles.) Well, no wonder—she earned her Masters in Nutrition and Dietetics at The University of Sydney (she got her Bachelor’s degree in biochemistry at Tufts University, Boston), a decision that stemmed from her experience as an overweight child. “I was basically obese throughout my childhood because of my sweet tooth—all that chocolate!, “ she continues. “I tried lots of
Do you worry about health or weight but just don’t have time to fuss about what you eat on a day to day basis? Take a peek at what the brains behind Slim Gourmet can offer you. dieting methods but was not able to stick to them. It wasn’t until I was 19 years old, weighing at 75 kilogram—and pre-diabetic— that I hit my turning point. And so I felt like I had to do something about my life— enough is enough!” And thus after completing her studies and working as, among others, a research dietitian in Sydney, she came back to Jakarta last year and, as luck would have it, she found a company that shared her passion for healthy eating: Slim Gourmet, the catering service that today sends out around 400 nutritious meals a day. “For me, healthy eating does make a difference,” says the self-described “girl next door.” “And what I love about what I’m doing now is that we’re not just in the business of cooking and delivering healthy meals, but we also focus on the specific needs of our customers. With the help of our own nutritionist, we provide additional guidance if customers would like to, say, lose or even gain weight.” Slim Gourmet currently has five chefs whose specialty range from Western, Asian, Indonesian, Mediterranean, to Japanese food. Naturally certain standards are maintained to ensure that the food stays fresh and clean. “We definitely prioritize hygiene: our staff are obligated to wear protective apparel like hair net and gloves that are changed everyday,” says Jocelyn. “And we never let our food be out in room temperature for more than six hours.” The need to eat healthy now seems to be part of her DNA: when eating out with friends at a restaurant Jocelyn would scan the menu to see which dishes meet her healthy standard, and it’s not uncommon for friends and clients to contact her whenever
SLIM GOURMET JAKARTA | Jalan Kramat Raya No. 19 D, Kebayoran Lama, Jakarta | T: + 62 21 723 1198, 723 6229, 739 5752 www.slimgourmet.net | Instagram: @slimgourmetjakarta
they needed “guidance”. In conjuction with The Foodie Magazine’s Breakfast theme, Jocelyn served up a simple delicious treat which contains the essential ingredients that the body needs to face the day. “We have poached eggs as it offers protein that will make you feel full longer, then we have vegetables and wheat bread for fibre, and low-fat milk for calcium,” as she explains the food on the table. She especially highlighted the importance of milk consumption for adults. “My biggest concern these days is the lack of consuming calcium from milk by adults, which could lead to osteoporosis. In Indonesia I think adults dont drink milk that much.” There are also fruits and juice to accompany other meals, including oatmeals topped with blueberries, homemade muesli cereal and yoghurt, but she warns that juice actually has more calories than the real deal. “My own favorite breakfast are oatmeal and yoghurt, and that would be enough for me,” she says. “The important thing to remember about your food is color—the more varied the better. The best source of course are fruits and vegetables that contain phytonutrients, which will help protect us from disease and prevent degeneration of our eyes.” But, fortunately, all is not serious. “I say when it comes to food, you’re allowed to be ‘only’ 70 percent healthy,” she says. “You’re allowed to have your ‘cheat day’, otherwise you would not enjoy life.” She mentioned her guilty pleasure includes gelato in a crispy wafer cone, “But I still often remind myself that it’s dairy so I still get calcium out of it, hahaha.”
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In Search For the Best Kota Breakfast by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY
One lazy Saturday, we decided to wake up early and head over to Kota to scour the streets for the best breakfast, that side of town.
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either of us are food critics, in fact, we may never be considered food critics. But we both love food! Although we are not too picky, one thing is for sure, breakfast is our favorite meal of the day. Not only that, it should also taste good! With this in mind, we have listed down our best finds that morning.
Nasi Tim Ayauw
Finding this place alone would be a challenge, because you have to go on foot through the hustle bustle of the market – which is actually a road loaded with people selling goods on both sides. Making your way through may be a bit stressful but trust us, it’s worth the effort. The tiny stall is located on the second floor of Pasar Pagi Lama has been operating for fifty years now. As the name suggests, here you can find nothing but the glorious nasi tim or steamed chicken rice. What makes Nasi Tim Ayauw different from other chicken rice is that the rice still retains its firm texture, yet every single grain of rice in a bowl of Nasi Tim Ayauw beautifully absorbs the rich flavor that comes from the homemade chicken stock that is used to cook the rice. On top of that you will get a bowl heaping with chopped, cooked chicken that is all juicy and savory. You may want to try the special version of this nasi tim with an extra topping of a fresh egg yolk directly cracked over the hot steamy rice. Go ahead stir the yolk into the rice while it’s hot, and soon you will indulge in creamy and oh so delicious steamed chicken rice like you never tasted before. And although the stall only serves nasi tim, they also provide selections of appetizing side dishes such as our favorite fried meatballs, chicken liver and gizzard braised in sweet soy sauce, and a warm, satisfying fish ball soup. Jalan Proyek Pasar Pagi Lama Lt. 2 Los No. U 21 & 18, Jakarta Barat Opens every day from 6.00 AM to 3.00 PM
Ketupat Cap Go Me Gloria 65
The signature Peranakan dish was initially only available during the Cap Go Me festival celebrated by the Indonesian Chinese communities on the 15th day after the
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Lunar New Year. Now, you can enjoy this delectable one-dish meal anytime, from this stall on Gang Gloria Petak Sembilan. They serve this special dish as their mainstay. Ketupat Cap Go Me according to Gloria 65 is a dish that consist of cubes of ketupat (steamed rice cake) topped with sayur labu siam (chayote squash cooked in coconut milk), opor soup, yellow curry, and sambal ebi (spicy sauce made of dried small shrimps). To go with your basic Ketupat
Cap Go Me, you can choose among the available toppings such as the opor chicken, braised potatoes, tofu, tempe and egg. The combination of opor soup that is quite bold and the subtle curry creates the distinctive taste of this dish, while the sambal ebi gives the kick that complements the rich flavor of Ketupat Cap Go Me. Gang Gloria, Jalan Pancoran, Jakarta Barat Opens everyday from 9.00 AM to 6.00 PM
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Mie Belitong Kedai Lao Hoe
The Lao Hoe restaurant at Petak Pasar Sembilan is like a time capsule that will instantly throw you back to the past, because the owner maintains the old Chinese style of the interior design. You will have no idea that you were actually sitting in a restaurant in the middle of a busy market. This small restaurant serves authentic Mie Belitong, a noodle dish originating from the
Eastern Sumatera region, which features thick egg noodles topped with prawns and slices of potatoes and cucumber, all soaked in thick gravy that is made from shrimp stock. Don’t forget the extra topping of rempeyek and emping. The gravy is loaded with the rich flavor of shrimp stock that has been balanced by sweetness from palm sugar. You can also can add a dash of lime juice or sambal, which are available as condiments, to round out the flavor. In
addition to its signature Mie Belitong, Lao Hoe restaurant also serves tempting fritters such as uyan (savory taro ball fritter) and fried cempedak (a close relative of jackfruit) served with honey on top. This fried cempedak is definitely one of our favorite fritters of all time! Pasar Petak Sembilan, Jalan Pancoran Raya, Jakarta Barat Opens every day from 8.00 AM to 6.00 PM
Nasi Campur Hosana
Taking a stroll along the Gang Gloria for a culinary trip is indeed a delightful experience. The area is famous for offering various kinds of Chinese culinary items, such as char siew noodle, fried meatballs, kuo tieh, mixed rice, Hainan rice, pi oh, bektim sekba, and many others. However, many say your visit to Gang Gloria will not be complete without trying the one-dish meal Nasi Campur (rice served with various choices of side dishes). Nasi Campur Hosana has become our favorite for its juicy and rich grilled pork. You have to try the other side dishes, such as chasiu, ngohiong, lapchiong, and pork satay, all of which are equally tasty. In addition, you can choose to have regular white rice or Hainan rice as the base of your nasi campur. Gang Gloria, Jalan Pancoran Raya, Jakarta Barat Opens every day from 6.00 AM to 6.30 PM
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Santung Kuo Tieh 68
Kuo tieh, also known as potstickers in Northern America or gyoza in Japan, are a kind of dumpling with minced pork and vegetable stuffing that was originated from the Shandong, or Shantung, as some people address it, region in China. Worry not, for you don’t have to travel all the way to China to taste kuo tieh¸ because we happen
Soto Betawi Afung
Despite its Chinese name, the restaurant that is located at Gang Gloria actually serves classic Soto Betawi that is commonly served at other places in Jakarta – only this one is special. Not long after you are seated, you will be presented with a bowl of steaming coconut milk soup that sends delicious aroma that no one can resist, especially when you are hungry. One slurp of the soup and you’ll know why we call it special. The broth smoothly slides down your throat and over your taste buds, sending a complex yet satisfying taste that comes from the savory beefy broth (made from meat and bones), mild creaminess from the coconut milk, and tangy lime juice. The flavor is so intense and rich, which apparently comes from the bone marrow that the restaurant’s owner adds to the broth. In addition, you will find that the meat and jeroan (offal), such as beef tripe and lungs, in the soup is blissfully tender because they are cooked for a long time in the broth. Don’t forget to ask for the additional emping (melinjo nut crackers) for extra crunch and tastiness of the Soto Betawi! Gang Gloria, Jalan Pancoran Raya, Jakarta Barat Opens every day from 6.00 AM to 4.00 PM
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to know that a small restaurant in Pancoran, named Santung Kuo Tieh 68, serves an authentic version of this dish. Kuo tieh served at this restaurant comes in just the right thickness of the dumpling wrapping and the right amount of stuffing. It is cooked with a special technique that combines pan-frying and steaming, but with only a small amount of water, which results in a dumpling with
crispy texture at the bottom and pleasant chewiness of the skin. The cooking method also seals the juices of pork and vegetable inside the dumpling, so when you bite into it, you will get the rich-flavored broth oozing out from the dumpling. Amazingly delicious. Jalan Pancoran Raya, Jakarta Barat Opens everyday from 10.00 AM to 7.00 PM
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Rujak Shanghai Encim Stand 68
Rujak is a general term for a light dish that is made by combining several kinds of fruits with a thick sauce made of shrimp paste and palm sugar. Unlike other usual rujak, the Kedai 68 offers a different version of rujak they called Rujak Shanghai, which is a result of a genius merger between the Betawi culinary heritage and Chinese influence. A serving of Rujak Shanghai consists of kangkung (water spinach), jicama, boiled octopus, and shreds of dried squid, also known as juhi. On top of that, a dollop of sweet and sour thick sauce and
bits of crushed ground nuts complement the dish. Judging Rujak Shanghai by its appearance, we agree that it may take a real foodie spirit to appreciate the dish with its ‘challenging’ bright red, gooey sauce. But do try it, and you will be amazed by the wonderful texture and taste of the crunchy water spinach doing a tango with the chewy octopus. Before you dig in to the Rujak Shanghai, you will have to mix all that is placed on the plate to make sure that the sauce covers everything in it. You may want to add a bit of chili sauce to intensify the flavor. Go take a spoonful of the Rujak Shanghai, and you will immediately recognize different tastes - sour from the
tomato, sweet from the sweet tomato, the saltiness of juhi, and the spicy red shallot that masks any remaining fishy aroma of the octopus and juhi. You will notice that the octopus texture is similar to the cartilage that is not too soft and not too tough, while the juhi absorbs the sauce and turns into something more like beef cracklings in texture. Rujak Shanghai can be enjoyed warm or cold according to your liking. To wash everything down, you can try iced sugarcane juice (es tebu) that is commonly sold at this area. Jalan Pancoran Raya, Jakarta Barat Opens every day from 8.00 AM to 4.00 PM
Bubur Teddy Pancoran
For the sweet tooth, you can choose Bubur Tedy Pancoran, which is located at the food court of Gedung Chandra in Pancoran. This humble stall provides delectable choices of sweet porridges, from mung bean porridge, ground nut porridge, to kidney bean porridge. You can still see and taste the nut bits in the porridge, which is not too thick but smooth to the tongue. Surprisingly, you will get citrusy hints in each mouthful of these porridges, unlike common dish that is usually dominant with spicy flavor contributed by ginger. You do have to spend more money for a bowl of porridge at Bubur Teddy, because it is relatively more expensive than the average bean porridge. But believe us, once you taste the porridge here, you won’t even regret spending that extra pennies. Plus, if you are lucky, you may get entertained by seniors staging karaoke session at the food court. Gedung Chandra Foodcourt Area Jalan Pancoran Raya, Jakarta Barat Opens everyday from 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM
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ASIAN BREAKFAST IN NEW YORK by ADITHYA PRATAMA
Migrants from all over the world have made New York City a huge melting pot of different cultures and cuisines. Thus, it is not a surprise to have some of the best Japanese and Vietnamese breakfasts in the Big Apple.
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t always amazes me that New York’s vibrant culinary scene is dotted with lots of Asian flavors that are very dear to any asian palates. Venturing out from a mere ramen and dumpling craze, few establishments start to introduce breakfast into their daily offerings. Here’s two of my favorite breakfasts in The Big Apple. WAKING UP TO THE ICHIJU SANSAI Imagine waking up to a steaming bowl of miso soup dressed with thinly sliced radishes, generous portions of grilled fish alongside pickled vegetables and a warm bowl of rice. Starting your day right with a satisfying meal was the idea behind Yuji Haraguchi and Tara Norvell’s neighborhood restaurant, Okonomi in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. “It is the kind of breakfast that you will be served with when staying at a bed and breakfast in Japan or while you are staying at a Japanese friend’s house,” explained Tara during my visit to the restaurant. The Japanese breakfast concept had been inside their heads while doing the Yuji Ramen pop-up with Whole Foods Market in two of their Brooklyn locations two years ago. When the partnership ended, Yuji and Tara started the 13-seater Okonomi, serving Japanese style breakfast during the day and hearty ramen at night from the heart of Williamsburg in Brooklyn. A regular breakfast set in Okonomi was referred to in Japanese as Ichiju Sansai, which directly translated to “one soup and three dishes” plus an addition of konomono –pickles, and bowl of rice. The Ichiju Sansai meal in Okonomi includes a portion of fresh-off-the-boat fish, house pickled root vegetables, steamed greens with tofu cream and creamy square of tamagoyaki –oven baked egg omelet, a hearty bowl of miso soup with thin slices of radish and a warm bowl of brown rice. Options of condiments, including onsen tamago and a portion of sea urchins, are available alongside regularly changed appetizers that may include slices of sashimi or –often enough, monkfish liver. None of the components in the meal were overly seasoned, a simple and rather
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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT healthier side of a breakfast. I was served with porgy (sea breams) upon our visit, filet and grilled with hints of salt to highlight the freshness of the fish. The porgy was rather lean with a thin skin that was mildly charred, adding the subtle smokiness to every bite. Steamed collard green and pickled vegetables did wonders eaten as it is or with the rice, but the tamagoyaki was indeed out of this world; creamy custardlike texture with very thin crust from the low-temperature baking complemented its mildly sweet and savory taste, I would love a whole pan of the tamagoyaki alone. It was pretty odd about the brown rice knowing how fussy Japanese can be with their rice. But surprisingly the brown rice was moist and rather sticky, just like regular
Japanese rice. I was told to make a cavity to pour the 70°C egg, the onsen tamago, into the rice and stirred all together with bonito flakes that the rice was served with. The egg added a wholesome breakfast mood into the rice with hints of saltiness and heat from the soy sauce and togarashi –dried chili powder. I continued dibbing on the sea urchin while enjoying my bowl of rice and savored the rather unique breakfast experience at Okonomi. Fish was the heart and soul of Okonomi, from the main protein during breakfast and lunch to the hearty broth in the evening. All of the parts were utilized as they also served the fish belly or the collar for breakfast while using the bones and the heads to compose the ramen broth
OKONOMI // YUJI RAMEN | 150 Ainslie Street, Brooklyn, New York www.okonomibk.com | Twitter: @YujiRamen | Instagram: @okonomibk
together with other meat bones that they sourced from the local butcher –The Meathook. “Many Americans are more familiar with common fish like salmon, cod, bass or tuna, so those fish were priced higher while the more exotic ones were exported to Japan,” shared Tara; “Yuji used to work for a fish supplier and that is why we get good source of other exotic type of fish for Okonomi. Even with the small size restaurant, we use about two to three whole fish for a day.” Within such a small space, Tara and Yuji had indeed do wonders from the 10-feet long kitchen. The efficiency of the kitchen were one of the many things Tara had learned from all of her kitchen experiences with April Bloomfield at The Spotted Pig, London’s Trullo and Roberta’s Pizza where she met Yuji. “I have to say that the space is a fun obstacle that we have to overcome in order to be more creative. Otherwise, we would probably be stuck with doing the same menu over and over again just like any regular restaurants.” Explained Tara. Tara’s regular breakfast is now composed of a plate of sashimi, rice and soup in the morning as opposed to her favorite ham and cheese sandwich. “I am pretty much spoiled with great healthy meals now,” giggled Tara; “and it’s absolutely hard to go back anymore.”
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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT TRIBUTE TO THE EAST I fell in love with their catfish burrito and dinner at Mission Cantina was such a hearty fare of fantastically done Mexican food with homemade tortillas. But for those early risers, Mission Cantina serves hearty and satisfying Vietnamese-inspired breakfast dishes to start the day with. The 2013 James Beard Award Rising Star Chef, Danny Bowien is one of America’s restaurant moguls with his restaurant Mission Chinese Food in San Francisco famed as one of America’s best restaurants by medias and foodies alike. In 2013, Mission Cantina stormed New York City’s SoHo with Danny’s house made cheese and tortillas filled with chicken liver, beef tripe and houseroasted pork –a whimsical Mexican cuisine as described on their website. Getting back to many of his Asian-inspired dishes, Danny composed a breakfast menu with his halfVietnamese, half-Mexican head chef to give Mission Cantina a fresh touch in the scene. From the conventional pho to the daring beef tartare (raw meat in the morning? Yes please!), Mission Cantina serves breakfast as early as 9 in the morning until 11 or all
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the way to 4 pm on the weekend. Upon ordering, a plateful of shrimp cracker was served alongside an in-vogue fried egg (crispy brown edges with runny yolk in the middle) dressed with black pepper and Maggi seasoning. My Indonesian blood was overjoyed upon the sight of the crunchy crackers sprinkled with cracked black pepper and lime to squeeze on to. The lamb pho came in a big bowl and a generous side of Thai basil, coriander and mint with beansprouts, hoisin and hot sauce as condiments. I enjoyed the hearty broth that was well flavored with slices of onions in it. The lamb meat was tender and flavorful providing the necessary fattiness that completed the whole bowl. Strips of rice noodles were cooked al dente¬ style letting me savor each and every bite of it. A rendition of Vietnamese Banh Mi came in a huge slab of a baguette –Vietnamese style thin crust and fluffy inside, slathered generously with duck liver paté and two fried eggs also dressed with Maggi. Unlike the usual julienned pickled carrot and radish, Mission Cantina thinly slices their pickles and serves it on a side. The fatty paté
was the true soul of the dish that went perfectly well with the crunchy crust of the baguette, but the runny egg yolk gave the extra flavor, a little bit of boldness and declared that it’s okay to have duck liver in your breakfast –as long as there’s the presence of eggs on it. But the ultimately satisfying breakfast from Mission Cantina was the duck porridge. A bowl of congee with big chunks of duck meat and spring onions topped with fried egg, served with peanuts and ginger sauce with fried shrimp toast to dip into the porridge. I poured all the ginger and peanuts to give the needed zing and tang to the congee and create the ultimate hangover food: greasy, salty with a mild kick into it. The toast was savory, packed with aromatic shrimp and was a perfect dipper for the congee. Forget about your usual pho and spring roll, Mission Cantina’s breakfast is one of the good reasons to wake up early in the city that never sleeps. In the hands of Danny Bowien, a simple Vietnamese style breakfast had transformed itself into a trendy brunch fare at the trendiest part of lower Manhattan.
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MISSION CANTINA | 172 Orchard St., New York, NY www.missioncantinany.com | Twitter: @cantinaburrito | Instagram: @missioncantinanyc
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T H E FI N E R T H I N G S
A TWG Breakfast by JED DOBLE photographer by DENNIE RAMON
T H E FI N E R T H I N G S
Fancy an elegant and delectable breakfast with friends? The TWG Tea Salon & Boutique serves up delightful tea flavored dishes partnered with their best teas.
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WG Tea, the finest luxury tea brand in the world, was established in Singapore and celebrates the year 1837 when the island became a trading post for teas, spices and fine epicurean products. TWG Tea is a luxury concept that incorporates unique and original retail outlets, exquisite tea rooms and an international distribution network to professionals. A veritable tea institution, TWG Tea is passionate about sharing its expertise and has become a point of reference for tea lovers thirsty for knowledge. Aside from their extensive tea selection, TWG Tea is also on the forefront of tea gastronomy. They continue to draw from their vast collection of fine harvest teas and exclusive blends, integrating a myriad of these signature teas into savoury recipes as a most precious component, imparting unique flavors, toying with taste buds, tantalizing the palate, and introducing a whole new world of sensations and flavors to gourmands and tea lovers when they dine at TWG Tea. With breakfast, brunch, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner specialties, as well as trendsetting tea beverages and cocktails, tea is woven into every aspect of the meal - an unmistakable taste that deliciously enhances each dish. We visited the TWG Tea Salon & Boutique at Pacific Place to sample their bespoke tea flavored breakfast fare. Walking into TWG is always a delight, each tea boutique is carefully designed with the utmost sophistication and elegance. Looking through the breakfast menu, we zeroed in on a few specialties. I ordered the Eggs Benedict. Homemade English muffins are topped with two poached farmhouse eggs served with a hollandaise sauce and smoked chicken ham. As I cut into the eggs, they are perfectly poached, their bright yolk spilling onto the plate. Lovely! I was also served some matcha financiers and a chocolate & raspberry muffin which came with TWG Tea Jelly and whipped cream. The matcha permeated the financiers and gave it an earthy and appetizing flavor. The choco raspberry muffin on the other hand was rich and fun eat, paired with the tea jelly, it was heavenly. Of course the meal would not be complete without a tea pairing. They recommended the Royal Darjeeling FTGFOP1* - This is the king of Indian teas, this TWG first flush black tea boasts of an exquisite fragrance and a vibrant, sparkling
taste that develops remarkable overtones of ripe apricots and is perfect as a breakfast tea. Other recommended teas are the Imperial Lapsang Souchong, which goes well with the smoked chicken and a China oolong tea such as Kwai Flower Superior Tea which is a tea blended with the pollen of osmanthus blossoms which gives off the aromatic fragrance of ripe Tuscan peaches. We also ordered the Imperial Matcha Eggs, which are scrambled farmhouse eggs with Matcha green tea powder sprinkled on them, and drizzled with truffle oil accompanied by smoked salmon, asparagus and a toasted brioche. This was paired with the Gyokuro Samurai – Several weeks before the harvest, the plantation is shaded to infuse the leaves with chlorophyll, which gives a unique and verdant taste, recognized by connoisseurs worldwide. This intoxicating TWG green tea yields an exquisite nectar,
TWG TEA SALON & BOUTIQUE | Pacific Place, Level 1, SCBD, Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, Jakarta | T: +62 21 5797 3272
boasting a tannin-free infusion with the sweet scent of fresh grass. We also had scones and Earl Grey Fortune Madelaines which were again served with TWG Tea Jelly and whipped cream. The last dish was the TWG Summer Quiche. A Warm baked rustic French- style vegetarian quiche served with seven-leaf salad tossed in 1837 Green Tea infused vinaigrette. And croissant and canelĂŠs served with TWG Tea Jelly and whipped cream. This was paired with an Iced Lemon Bush Tea, red tea from South Africa blended with wild citrus fruits. This refreshing TWG theine-free tea can be served warm or iced at any time of the day. It was a very delightful breakfast and with the added sensation of tea gastronomy, we learned more about teas and the flavors they impart when infused with food. A truly exceptional experience.
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Breakfast Cocktails by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
It may seem unusual to some to have a cocktail at breakfast. It doesn’t necessarily mean a sign of alcoholism or a broken heart, but the morning cocktail can be a hangover restorative or eye opening wake up call.
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th century America saw the rise of the cocktail. This all came about from the habit of drinking bitters (alcoholic herbal cure-alls) in the morning. Then, it was not unusual to have a breakfast cocktail. Of course, now, we would down a glass of orange juice or an espresso to perk us up in the morning. Very different indeed. But I have to admit, I am a fan of the breakfast or brunch cocktail. I have attended many boozy brunches and have survived them all, with flying colors! This month, Katie Nagar, Brand Ambassador for Diageo Reserve Spirits shares with us three of her breakfast cocktails which you can try at home. Katie tells me that she is definitely a brunch person. “In the morning I’m actually not that hungry. But I love breakfast food as a category. So at around 11am or noon, that’s when I like having pastry, eggs, the usual breakfast stuff,” Katie shares. “I like the combination of savory and sweet. That’s why I love scones. Traditional scones are not sweet, they are more savory and have a buttery-salty flavor. Pair those with some fresh whipped cream, and some strawberries, that’s really nice.” Another combination Katie likes is egg and avocado. She says that she likes having some poached eggs with some nice ripe avocado and a little bit of citrus sprinkled on top and some salt. She even shares with us a friend’s recipe: “If you cut an avocado in
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half, take the pit out, and crack an egg into it, the little pit hollow makes for a perfect cradle. Then bake it in the oven at very low temperature for 30-45 minutes. The egg will be perfectly cooked and the avocado warm and gooey.” That sounded amazing, I will have to try it at home some time. Katie is brand ambassador for Diageo Nava+ Indonesia, specializing in fine whiskey. She was born and raised in Kentucky, and her passion for whiskey began with local Bourbon and quickly grew to include Scotch and other world whiskies. Before joining the Diageo Indonesia team, Katie worked in the beverage industry for over six years, cultivating her skills in cocktail creations, craft beer, and coffee. As brand ambassador, Katie tells me that her job has three facets. First is consumer interface, here she attends events, runs tastings, helps increase product knowledge, explains about products. Second is her involvement with media, wherein she works with magazines and other outlets to help bring forward the different brands. And last is work with trade outlets, here she works with bar management and staff to raise the quality of drink service and all around brand education. The first cocktail, Bloody Bulleit is an homage to the traditional Bloody Mary. When people think of breakfast cocktails, their thoughts immediately go to a Bloody Mary. Katie gives the traditional cocktail a twist by using Bulleit Bourbon instead
of vodka. “The Bulleit has a lot of spice qualities thus it pairs well with the paprika, the Tabasco and the other spices you would normally find in a Bloody Mary,” Katie explains. She recommends pairing the Bloody Bulleit with something savory, like eggs, hash browns or maybe a breakfast burrito. The second drink was the Breakfast Beer. Katie explains: “In America, before coffee came to the U.S., beer was the most popular breakfast drink. And everyone who has had a big night knows that the day after drinking can sort of relieve a hangover. So a beer around breakfast or brunch may be acceptable.” She wanted to incorporate that idea into a cocktail, hence the Breakfast Beer. She chose to use Guinness beer because it is not too boozy and has a nice dark stout creamy quality about it and paired it with Tanqueray 10 gin. She recommends pairing it with something salty, like bacon or baked beans. Lastly, the Strawberries and Cream. “The idea behind that was that it would easily pair well with pastry, it is light, fruity and easy for the morning, with a nice frothy, creamy texture as well,” Katie describes. These three cocktails by Katie would be a great starting point if you ever wanted to host a boozy brunch at home. As I mentioned above, day after drinking is a traditional way of easing a hangover. So whether you are looking for a morning pickme-up or a hangover cure, make sure to try these delicious breakfast cocktails.
T R I E D A N D TI P S I E D
BLOODY BULLEIT Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS:
50 ml Bulleit Bourbon 15 ml Freshly squeezed lemon juice 150 ml Tomato juice 5 ml Balsamic vinegar 6 dashes Tabasco sauce 5 dashes Worcester sauce 1 pinch Spice mix: paprika, garlic, rock salt
STEPS
• Place all ingredients except tomato juice into a shaker and shake briefly. • Strain over highball glass filled with ice. • Top with tomato juice and stir.
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
BEER FOR BREAKFAST Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS:
50 ml Tanqueray 10 gin 35 ml Guinness syrup (combine equal parts Guinness and sugar to saucepan and gently heat until sugar has dissolved) 25 ml Freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 pcs Thumbnails ginger 50 ml Guinness Beer
STEPS
• Muddle ginger in the base of a shaker. • Add all ingredients except Guinness beer and shake. • Double strain into chilled coupette glass. • Top with Guinness beer.
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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D
STRAWBERRIES & CREAM Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS: 50 ml 25 ml 15 ml 10 ml 1 pc 2 pcs
Ketel One Vodka Freshly squeezed lemon juice Simple syrup Heavy whipping cream Egg white Strawberries
STEPS
• Muddle strawberries in the base of a shaker. • Add all ingredients and dry shake. • Add ice and hard shake. • Double strain into highball glass with ice. • Add soda water to top.
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
PECEL KANTIN SHEILA by RANI DJOEIR
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his is felt more for those who work in the business district where traffic can be a pain. But somewhere in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Jakarta, there is always an oasis filled with delicious food in forms of warungs, canteens, cafes, and restaurants. For many who work in Gatot Subroto business district, the back roads of their office buildings are a favorite place to hunt for delicious food. Just behind the Jamsostek Building, there is one modest building decorated with wooden tables and benches. A long table with a vast array of food is located at the side of the canteen. Unlike your normal canteen, Kantin Sheila is open during the weekdays from early in the morning until office hour ends. The canteen itself is commanded by a group of middle-aged ladies who are in charge of, not only the kitchen, but also the front part of the canteen and the cashier. Chatting while preparing the meals, you can find that they are extremely friendly and so proud of their cooking. You can even see them ngobrol with the regulars. It’s no wonder that Kantin Sheila is a favorite of the workers in the area. If you are expecting a normal canteen, then you are wrong. This one is a self-service place known for its Pecel. This has been a staple on their menu for years, unlike other dishes that they change from time to time. Pecel itself is a traditional Javanese salad served with a light peanut sauce accompanied with steamed rice or ketupat. Since it is a self-service canteen, the guests are welcome to take as many as they want. On the table, a tampah is mounted with spinach that has been blanched until wilted, long beans, and bean sprouts, although cucumber can also be added, but not a must. After piling those veggies on a plastic plate, a few lugs of watery peanut sauce are poured on top. Similar to gado-gado, grinding fried peanuts with coconut or palm sugar, chili, galangal, a splash of tamarind juice, garlic, and a few kafir lime leaves makes the peanut sauce. It is made watery by adding hot water to the paste and whisk until its homogenized. Although chili is added to the dish, it does not over power the sauce. It’s only to make it have this sort of kick and balance the sweetness of the sugar. The sauce is more on the savory side with a fresh and zingy citrusy after taste. A
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Many of us are still lucky to be able to eat breakfast at home. But for the rest of the crowd, we need to grab a bite on the way or when we get to the office.
Pecel dish will not be complete without peyek. Peyek is freshly made peanut crackers seasoned with coriander and kafir lime leaf. But that is not all that is available there. Some of us are there to get their gorengan as well. Start of with a few slices of piping hot tempe mendoan served with extra hot chili paddy. Move over to the next tray, and there are two types of tahu goreng. Some like it plain and many love it filled
with vegetables. Coated with a thin layer of batter and deep fried until golden brown, another favorite is the mini Martabak Tahu. The tofu is mixed with some spring onion, garlic, and shallots. Just before frying, the tahu mixture is added on to a spring roll sheet and shaped into a square. It can be eaten as it is or slathered with some peanut sauce. Kantin Sheila has perfect breakfast dishes that can keep us going for the rest of the day.
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
PECEL KANTIN SHEILA | Jalan Komp. Polri, Gatot Subroto, Jakarta
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
BUBUR AYAM HAJI JEWO by CINNAMON PROJECT
Hailing the heritage of Chinese cuisine in Indonesia, porridge has been known as one of the most favorite breakfast in the city. While a much-loved favorite is chicken porridge with soto ingredients, this famous Bubur Ayam Haji Jewo has its own style to please the member of Cendana family.
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f you love good food and the interesting stories behind it, then you will surely love to meet Sujewo, the founder of Bubur Ayam Haji Jewo. This is the man who made the former President and his family (also called Cendana Family) bewitched with his concoction of chicken porridge. Considering this popular breakfast was the favorite bubur ayam of a ‘royal family’, it may lead you to think that this bowl of chicken porridge will be expensive. But the fact is, Pak Jewo is a street food vendor who sells bubur ayam from his gerobak around exclusive residences at Jalan Tanjung, Menteng, Central Jakarta since 1985. My curiosity to this bubur ayam was even more elevated when I heard that President Jokowi visited to taste a bowl from Pak Jewo. When I arrived at Jalan Tanjung,
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it’s not difficult to find this bubur ayam. A crowd of people sitting on the sidewalk enjoying their breakfast or patiently waiting for Tejo’s waiters to deliver their bubur ayam was a sign for me that I have found it. Unlike the chicken porridge with yellow sauce or kuah soto (made from shallots, garlic, coriander, and turmeric) as a version from Sukabumi, or soya sauce as with the version from Cianjur, this old man just simply makes chicken porridge without any flavoring sauces. The rice grains are boiled in deep pot of ayam kampung stock until they become tasty rice porridge and are topped with shredded chicken, chopped celery, and of course kerupuk. At least 12 kilos of rice and 30 pieces of ayam kampung are cooked and served daily with the help of 15 assistants.
When the vendors are prohibited to sell their food around the residences, another vendor called Bubur Ayam Tanjung is the one and the only vendor found selling his bubur ayam in this area. Small space behind fence of a house who owned by one of the son of Soeharto at Jalan Tanjung no.29 provide to park his gerobak every morning. If you come late, (I suggest you to come there at 7 am) you might have no chance to have additional topping like chicken liver or gizzard and fried chicken skin. Some of his fanatic fans even order extra bowl of chicken bones as a side dish. A bowl of bubur ayam without additional topping cost Rp 16.000. Eventhough its quite overprice for a streetfood chicken porridge, but at least I know why the ex- first person in Indonesia fall in love with this bubur ayam.
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
BUBUR AYAM HAJI JEWO | Jalan Tanjung, Menteng, Jakarta
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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
SURABI TRADISIONAL CIHAPIT by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Who says Indonesians don’t eat pancakes for breakfast and even queue for it? You will find that this is true and can be seen early in the morning at Jalan Cihapit, Bandung.
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aking up as early as 5.30am just to get good breakfast may be too much for many, especially in the icy cold early mornings of Bandung. But for some, they manage to do just that and getting the first cream of the crop for this particular breakfast item gives them bragging rights. You will find that the busy Jalan Cihapit is as drowsy as everyone else is early in morning, but the same does not go for this particular serabi stall found in this road. It is, by the way, called surabi in Bandung and technically quite different than Solo’s version of serabi. Upon seeing how it is made and the characters found on them, this is clearly what we call as Indonesianstyle pancakes. It is suitable for breakfast and comes with many flavors with cheese, meat, or egg. However if you ask me, I’d go for the traditional flavors. So queue up and ask the person-incharge for packaging to jot down your order in the queue list. The traditional types would be the plain and simple surabi as well as the ones topped with oncom – the fermented soybean leftovers from making
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tempe. The process is relatively simple as the rice flour batter has already been made and all they need is to pour it on a customized shaped griddle, grilled upon charcoals. The grilling process probably takes around a couple of minutes for each serabi, but since everyone usually orders around a dozen for takeaways, you can do the math on when they next customer receives their bag of goodies. That’s why patience becomes the tested virtue for any of us
who queue for these delicious small treats. Of course, the wait was worth it. I had probably the best time of my life enjoying them and began to think that all those pancakes that my mother had bought me since I was a kid was something that I took for granted. It was a newfound spirit of appreciation for this lovely yet simple, traditional creation. Not only it is flavorful, but you also can’t resist its fluffiness and how tempting it is when served hot. Oh how I miss Bandung now…
TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S
OPENING HOURS: Daily, 6am – 12pm SPEND: IDR 3,000 – 6,000 / pc
SURABI CIHAPIT | Jalan Cihapit (in front of Toko Djitu), Bandung | T: +62 22 7619 3947, +62 813 9416 9449
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I CO N I C
A Delightful Morning Treat by SAHIRI LOING
Stroll down to Pasar Senen in Central Jakarta and discover a sight filled with tasty treats early in the morning.
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isiting this early morning market in the Senen area must be heaven for those with a sweet tooth. Rows of tables display sumptuous offerings of traditional cakes of different colors, as well as local snacks and delicacies with many different fillings wrapped in green packages made out of banana leaves. For those searching for breakfast, this may be a perfect spot to explore, just make you are not tempted to dangerously binge eat here. But, like other forms of temptation, there’s a catch: the market only opens from 3:00 am up to 8:00am — that’s why the market is popularly known as Pasar Kue Subuh or dawn cake market. The place has been around since the 1960s, ever since the Indonesian government started developing the Senen market. Since then the market has been kind of a local attraction, listed by some travellers as a must-visit spot in Jakarta even only to experience the colorful and delectable sight. But on a dayto-day basis the market’s regular visitors are mostly housewives, wholesale buyers (who will then resell these in their own shops), party organizers, and breakfast seekers who live or work nearby. “I’ve been visiting pasar kue subuh since college in the 90s,” says Lisa Panjaitan, 35, housewife. “I think it’s a great place to be if you haven’t had breakfast yet because it also sells an assortments of breads and traditional delicacies such as lemper or
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bakpau. I went there the first time with a friend to pick up some cakes and breads for an event that morning and it was really crowded. But I love the atmosphere of the market—I felt like I was drowning in a sea of cakes!” It was a quiet morning when we visited Pasar Kue Subuh Senen on a Wednesday. We passed through hallways where on each side merchants already had their cakes on full display; a few buyers eagerly picking out their favorites. Looking at the choices it sometimes brings back memories of childhood: there were the sweet and sticky steamed layered cake (or kue lapis); the green coconut-based putu ayu with a sprinkle of grated coconut on top; and my personal favorite, the appetizing bolu kukus which is like the traditional version of cupcakes. Beyond cakes, there were also traditional snacks which can usually be found on our table in the morning such as the all-time favorite lemper (sticky rice with chicken filling wrapped in banana leaves), bacang (borrowed from a Chinese dish that was made with pork filling), and the savory risoles (breaded egg rolls with chicken and vegetable filling) that is perfect to munch on with chili sauce. The choices are endless. Based on the few samples that we tried, the tastes can vary, which according to one customer may depend on the pricing. “Sometimes the more expensive ones tasted better,” says Sulis. But, mind you, nominally
the higher price range are actually not that high as IDR2000 can already be described as “expensive”. One pineapple tart costing us IDR1000 tasted very bland as there are no traces of the tropical fruit whatsoever. But, again, it didn’t cost us much so we can’t complain. We’ve mentioned before that the market was unusually empty when we got there at 5AM and the location of the sellers were a bit spread out, but as it turns out the reason for that was last year’s fire that ravaged part of Pasar Senen as it forces the sellers to move out from their centralized spot. “But workdays are usually quiet for us anyway,” says Amir, one of the cake sellers. “You should come on weekends—that’s when it’s really crowded and cars will be parked all the way down the street.” I’m not a morning person but visiting Pasar Kue Subuh has definitely worth the effort of waking up at the crack of dawn. And I’m glad I came here with a empty stomach—my breakfast menu was made more lavish with the selection I picked. By the way, there are also duplicates of pasar kue subuh available elsewhere in Jakarta, with the equally famous one located at Blok M, South Jakarta, but so far Pasar Kue Subuh Senen still remains the top drawer for locals and tourists alike. This question brought forth by Lisa is an interesting one: “Is there anything quite like it in other countries?”. Honestly, we couldn’t think of any.
I CO N I C
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
DADE AKBAR RAMADHAN by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON & WARTEG GOURMET’S PERSONAL COLLECTION
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
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e’ve heard of many individuals pursuing their passions and end up exploring uncharted territories. Some incorporate their passions with patriotic duty and want to are inspired by patriotic duties and incorporate their passions with see the country move forward, in their small way. Dade Akbar is one of these individuals. “The way I see it, friends and social media enthusiasts alike are enjoying gourmet food at a whole new level, but mostly these are from foreign cuisines. I was wondered, why can’t we do the same thing for Indonesian food?” said Dade. Like any Indonesian, he likes to appease his food cravings with hearty yet affordable fare from the local warteg (warung tegal). With Warteg Gourmet, he wanted to elevate warteg food, to refine it, and plate it stylishly. Although he is a talented home cook, he had no background in culinary whatsoever, Dade decided to
DADE AKBAR RAMADHAN | Instagram: @warteggourmet
We first chanced upon Warteg Gourmet on Instagram. We were amazed at the artfully done plating of simple warung tegal or warteg food. So we sought out the man behind this successful venture, Dade Akbar. push the limits on this by solely relying on his artistic forte. Dade works as an art director of a prominent advertising agency in Jakarta, after previous stints in Singapore for several years in the same industry. As an arts major, Dade is no stranger when it comes with designing or illustrating things. Thus he incorporated his talents and passions to his new venture. “I cater private dinners during weekends, doing almost everything from the cooking, styling, and setting up of the whole mood and interiors myself. Sometimes, luckily, my wife and friends come to the rescue, and I can concentrate with the dishes”, he said. On what will happen next, Dade diplomatically answered that he will continue to do his best juggling between his two worlds. He wants to feel fulfilled from his arty side as a maker of things and somebody who is currently infatuated with the culinary world.
Of course we cannot let him go without first asking him about his favorite foods, both his guilty pleasure and about something in line with our Breakfast theme. “Bubur ayam is still my number one choice for breakfast. I like the Betawi-style that uses the extra soup”, said Dade. Next, he took his time pondering his guilty pleasure until he came up with the ultimate answer. “There’s no other treat better than the chicken skin satay from Sate Sambas. Of course, I like the meat too but the chicken skin is just totally irresistible for me. I’d have the skin more than the meat whenever I’m there. Sometimes we have two or three plates of it!” said Dade, For now we look forward to more exciting Warteg Gourmet photos on Instagram and more private dinner events for Dade, we wish him luck on this passionate endeavor of his to uplift Indonesian food.
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
HENDRI by SAHIRI LOING photographs by DENNIE RAMON
A combination of nerve-calming yoga and a penchant for herbal drinks seems to be the prescribed way of life for our featured foodie this month
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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E
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ou can always depend on an exercise enthusiast to have a serving of breakfast which in the eyes of the common people— including us— might be perceived as “exotic”. Exhibit A: chia seed pudding mixed with strawberry sauce then sprinkled with a generous amount of raisins and almonds, which is the normal breakfast for the single-named yoga instructor, Hendri. “Ever since I practiced yoga, my eating habits have definitely changed,” says Hendri. “But if I don’t have time to fix a full breakfast, I usually just eat havermouth or three poached eggs.” Yup, most of the time exercise enthusiasts and healthy eating goes hand-in-hand. Why would you bother spending precious hours at the gym burning calories only to splurge on fat-laden food afterwards, right? The same case goes to the 29-yearold Hendri, or Take amongst his friends (a nickname deriving from the Japanese actor, Takeshi Kaneshiro—which he does kind of resembles). He’s been immersing himself in the art of yoga since college (London School of Public Relations), which in the beginning he tried just for fun but ended up loving so much that he agreed to take advanced training sessions in order to become an instructor. But, first of all, let’s get one thing straight: “I actually eat everything,” he says, “except... gorengan or fried food. I would literally get sick if I ate something that is cooked with bad quality oil.” Talk about your body giving out a clear signal, huh? (We secretly wish that we own this
HENDRI | Instagram: @hendri _ take
particular “gift”.) His body would go into full “breakdown” mode upon munching on gorengan: sore throat, coughing, flu, even fever! That’s why he rarely eats it, and if he does use oil in his food it’s olive oil, which he pours to cook chicken or his favorite fish, dori. He seldom eats junkfood (“perhaps only once a month”), preferring to feed his lean body with a healthy mixture of vegetable juice (“cold-pressed, and I mix in fruit as well but only a little because juicing fruits releases more sugar”), and basically ensuring that his meal contains a lot of proteins and fibre. He said it’s actually okay to consume eggs everyday, “I know people worry about cholesterol in eggs, but it actually depends on your body condition. If you’re perfectly healthy then it’s fine to consume eggs every day.” Hendri might, at first, seem reserved and calm, so of course we asked whether this is his true character or a byproduct of doing yoga. “Definitely because of doing yoga, “ he answers. “When I was a teenager I’ve been known to get into a lot of fights, but I never got involved with tawuran [or mass fighting between students from different schools] though. Doing yoga has made my emotions more stable and, mentally, I am able to be much more focused in what I want to do in life.” And these days, Hendri has a lot on his plate: not only as a yoga instructor four times a week at Fitness First, but he’s also honing on his business skills (something he got from his family) by creating his own brand of jamu, or Indonesian herbal drink. But why jamu in particular? “I actually
liked drinking jamu ever since I was a kid,” he says. “I think I took it from my grandmother who loves to drink all kinds of jamu made from beras kencur, kunyit [turmeric], asam jawa [tamarind], jahe [ginger], and many others. And if we’re feeling sick, our solution is not to immediately take pills but we prefer the herbal way first.” And so jamu has become a permanent fixture in his day-to-day menu, including for breakfast. He’s already made samples of his own jamu, catered specifically to his personal taste, and all he needs to do now is decide on the perfect packaging and, most importanly, a name. “I want to make jamu that the young people of today might like,” he continues. “I feel like there’s a growing market for it right now since, these days, people like trying out new things.” We had the pleasure of sipping a few of his jamu, such as the beras kencur mixed ginger, and we’re happy to say that it doesn’t have the normally bitter taste that jamu is usually associated with—in fact, it’s milky and sweet. “We don’t use sugar in our jamu, but we use the much healthier brown sugar or gula jawa to make it sweet,” he says. His 10-year-experience practicing yoga will undoubtedly give him the much-needed focus on the business at hand. But on a more personal level, he’s got nothing to complain about. “Doing yoga made me feel fresher, I sleep comfortably, waking up in the morning becomes very easy,” he says. “My life definitely has become more disciplined. And, of course, my choice of food has become healthier.” So shall we start doing yoga, now?
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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G
Quinoa Breakfast Porridge by MAYA ALDY photographs by DENNIE RAMON
A lot of chefs might cook it a little different compared to others. Chef Maya wants to share with you what quinoa is and how to use it. Most quinoa is used for salads; chef Maya will be using it as a breakfast item.
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see a growing trend in eating healthy everywhere, not just in America and Europe, but also in Indonesia. You can really tell this by the mushrooming of healthy juice companies and home delivery services for healthy cooking in Jakarta. So I think the reason why I chose quinoa is because it’s a super food. It does a lot of good for you. It’s a good source of protein, having three times the protein content compared to chicken or eggs. Quinoa can actually be used in a lot of dishes and not just in salads. That’s why in this breakfast issue I want to use quinoa as the main ingredient in this recipe. It’s very easy to make and it’s very good for you. Quinoa is also a good antioxidant. It has an agent in it that is good in lowering blood sugar. It’s gluten free and is low on Glycemic Index. So for people who are into healthy diets or are sensitive with gluten, it’s a good ingredient that can be added to your daily intake. I make a lot of dishes with quinoa and I want to share my quinoa breakfast porridge with you. People are familiar with oatmeal porridges for breakfast. I have substituted the oatmeal with quinoa and instead of milk I used apple juice. You can eat this quinoa breakfast porridge in the morning and it will last you until lunchtime. With this quinoa breakfast porridge, I mark the start of sharing healthier dishes to you, our beloved readers. I want this column to promote healthy and clean eating and cooking. Whatever the theme, I want to take it to the healthier side without it being a dry recipe. It will still be wholesome, flavorful and healthy at the same time. Love,
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Instagram and Twitter: @maya _ aldy | E: maya _ aldy@otellobby.com
M AYA ’ S M U S I N G
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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G
QUINOA PORRIDGE WITH BANANA AND PEANUT BUTTER Serves 4
INGREDIENTS: Spice Infusion 1 cup 180 ml 1 pc 2 tbs
Cooked Quinoa Apple Juice Honey, to taste Banana, mashed Peanut Butter Chopped Almond Raisins Cinnamon Stick
STEPS
• In a medium saucepan bring the water to a boil, stir in quinoa. Return to a boil, reduce heat. Simmer, covered, about 15 min or until water is absorbed. • Stir in apple juice and peanut butter until combined. Stir in Banana. • Dived Quinoa mixture among four serving bowls. Top with your chopped almond and raisins. Grate some cinnamon on top. Serve with milk, fresh fruit or other nuts, if desired.
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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G
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TRIED AND TESTED
DE DI ET RICH ><
Jalapeno Chili Chicken
T H E FOODIE by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON
Chef Vindex Tengker shares with us a hearty and healthy breakfast dish which is easy to do at home.
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hef Vindex is no stranger to The Foodie Magazine. We have done a number of features with him, in fact, we featured him in our first Foodie’s Life section back in December 2013. Renowned throughout Indonesia and abroad, Chef Vindex is always ready to impart his culinary know-how with those eager to listen. A professional chef for the past 26 years, Chef Vindex has spent a large part of his career working in hotel kitchens. He worked for the Four Seasons group for 18 years, and was the executive chef of the Four Seasons Jakarta for ten years. Most recently, he was executive chef of The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, holding the position for three and a half years. Now that he has left hotel life, you’d think that he’d slow down, apparently not. He has a number of restaurant projects ongoing, in Jakarta and around the country, as well as a project brewing up in New York. He is also busy preparing his own cooking studio, where he plans to do most of his research and development. For our Breakfast issue, although his favorite breakfast dish is Eggs Benedict, Vindex shares with us a chicken dish. Using the De Dietrich Multifunction Plus Oven, Chef Vindex prepares his Jalapeno Chili Chicken with Cream Cheese and Bacon Sauce. Using the oven’s low temperature settings, the chicken is cooked slowly and evenly. During the cooking process, Chef Vindex recommends pouring chicken stock over the chicken, to ensure that it remains moist. The dish is served with flour tortillas, which you can make into a breakfast burrito or wrap. Like any recipe, Chef Vindex
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suggests that you tweak it to suit your taste and you can even replace the chicken with other proteins. After seeing the finished product, we were all eager to taste it. Please try the recipe at home.
Le Galerie De Dietrich conducts regular cooking classes each month. To inquire about the schedule, reach out to them at +62 21 2171 80349 or email at marketing@ kitchenatalier.co.id Facebook: Vindex-Tengker
B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y D E D I E T R I C H
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TRIED AND TESTED
GRILLED CHICKEN AND AVOCADO SANDWICH Serves: 1
INGREDIENTS: Chicken leg
8 pc Boneless chicken legs 1 tsp Salt and Mixed Pepper 1 tbsp Chili powder 3 tbsp Olive oil
Potatoes and Vegetables
2 cups Baby Potatoes, cut in half 1/2 pc each Red and Green Bell Pepper, cut into cubes 1 pcs Medium Onion, sliced 3 pc Tomatoes, cut into wedges 2 tbsp Olive oil 2 pcs Limes, zested and juice squeezed 1/2 cup Chicken stock 1/3 cup Sliced Pickled Jalapeno Chile Peppers, drained
STEPS
• Heat oil in frying pan. Sprinkle chicken with chili powder, mixed pepper and salt. Arrange chicken, skin side down, and cooked until skin side are golden brown in color. Set aside.
Cream cheese and bacon sauce 1 tbsp 8 pc 1/2 cup 150 g 2 tbsp
Condiment 4 pc 1 tsp
Olive oil Bacon, sliced Chicken stock Cream Cheese, softened and cut into cubes Corn Starch mix with 1-2 tbsp. of cold water Flour Tortillas Chili powder
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• Keep the frying pan on a medium heat, cook the onions without browning them. Sweat until they become soft. Set aside. • In a bowl, mix potatoes and bell pepper with olive oil and arrange in an oven proof bowl or container. Top with the seared chicken, skin side up. Squeeze some lime juice and sprinkle with the zest together with the jalapenos on every chicken including the jalapenos juice. Spread the onions around. • Pre heat the Low Temperature Oven to 150 degree Celsius. Slowly cook the chicken.
B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y D E D I E T R I C H • When first 45 minutes are done, add some chicken stock to moisten the dish. A little at a time. Put it back in the oven and press the button on the oven to brown the chicken. Continue cooking for another 15- 20 minutes until chicken is done and all the vegetables are perfectly cooked. • Transfer the jalapenos chicken together with the potatoes and vegetables onto a platter. Reserving cooking liquid. Cover chicken and keep warm. • For sauce, use the existing pan used to brown the chicken. Add olive oil and cook the bacon for 2- 3 minutes. Add broth and let it boil. Season with salt and pepper. Thicken with cornstarch that already combine with water; stir into cooking liquid. When thick, add cream cheese, whisking until well combined. Cook about 15 minutes.
De Dietrich DOP1190W – Multifunction Plus Oven NEW BOLD AND INTUITIVE INTERFACE TO ACCESS THE BEST OF COOKING Providing a fully-interactive wide screen TFT full colours panel with 16 million colours, the new Tactilium Control Screen offers user-friendly and intuitive navigation through the various menus. Be impressed by the touch screen that navigates both vertically and horizontally! Watch the selection of dishes and recipes on different user modes come alive in full colours as you select from the various user modes : Expert, Culinary Guide, Intelligent Cooking System or Low Temperature Cooking! MULTIFUNCTION PLUS OR FAN COOKING – THE ART OF CREATING GASTROMONIC WONDERS! Among the various cooking function on the De Dietrich Multifunction Plus Oven, fan cooking is the ideal cooking method to express your culinary talents. The fan uniformly diffuses the heat produced by the heating elements ; thus allowing simultaneous cooking of different dishes on various shelf positions without transforming flavors and aromas. The delicate texture of white meat is preserved; while the aroma and flavor of crème brulee are maintained both are prepared at the same time. COMBINED HEAT, NATURAL CONVECTION, TURBO-GRILL, OR DEFROSTING... Multifunction Plus offers you full culinary possibilities to prepare meats, pastries, and vegetables, any way you like them. For more information on stock list, visit La Galerie De Dietrich today! LA GALERIE DE DIETRICH Jl. Kemang Raya No. 17 , Jakarta 12730 Tel: +62 2171 80349 marketing@kitchenatelier.co.id • Pour the sauce on the Jalapenos chicken and served with warmed Flour tortillas. Sprinkle with some chili powder on top of the flour tortilla.
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STUFF OF LEGENDS
Linda Adimidjaja â&#x20AC;&#x201C; THE BRANDING EXPERT by RIAN FARISA
Known for many years as a journalist and a branding expert, Ibu Linda Adimidjaja shares her experience that may be able to help the businesses of entreprenuers in Indonesia.
STUFF OF LEGENDS
A
mongst the academics and professionals who attended the focus group discussions at the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy last year, there was a lady who was not only revered by the high ranking officials of the ministry but whose words were also sought upon by all of us. Ibu Linda Adimidjaja stood out and was clearly well-versed regarding food. Fearlessly she plunged into the heated discussions, bluntly speaking about the nation’s current situation and the urgent need to improve our culinary world. The government finally established the creative economy blue print that included Culinary among other vital subjects in the plan. It has now become a foundation for further development, relying heavily on what the incumbent regime will do next. Months after the FGD, I was graced by an opportunity to visit Ibu Linda’s beautiful house in this verdant suburbs, south of Jakarta. Upon finding out that I have befriended a journalist who’s also, at that time, interviewing her, we quickly gathered and enjoyed that long awaited conversation. Ibu Linda always welcomes everyone who would like to hear her two cents in fields of her expertise such as food, journalism, and marketing. Even so, she started it all as a bachelor of French literature first. “Indecisive with what I will major on in uni, me and my father met a French tourist during one of our trips. His English was just sexy and I immediately wanted to learn French literature”, she reminisced and also credited her father’s openness in regards to what she wishes to achieve in her life. Ten years of college was not a short time. It was commonly known that literature
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took the longest time to graduate with, but not only that, Ibu Linda married at a tender age and took breaks in-between for her family as well. Despite her unusual background with that degree, she owed her years of knowing food from her mother’s immense talents in the kitchen, as a journo for Femina and also with Nestle. During her early years with Femina, she’s assigned from one section to another. Unable to find which part of the magazine served her skills best, she’s then assigned to write about interiors. “I was enjoying my part here so much and benefitted from my pastime back then when arranging my home for my parents parties”, excitingly she told us the story. Not long after that, she’s assigned to head the culinary section of the magazine. “I was told to replace the previous editor who resigned for reasons unknown”, Ibu Linda said. It was evident that without the need for any explanation, it became an assignment that will change her future forever. Motivated with more responsibilities, she also made bold moves in Femina to bring the food section into prominence within the magazine. “While Femina thrives from our recipe books, our bright journalists’ creativities were halted with so little portion about food in the magazine. I pushed the top brass with this idea and finally we got ourselves that much-deserved weekly column, all about food!” she said sharing the collective, monumental move for the magazine during her second tenure there as managing editor after some 16 years with Nestle in-between. Meanwhile, her term in Nestle gave her insights about consumer goods business. Her extensive experience were gained on
not just by testing the recipes of various products but also at how to develop, brand, promote, and to deal with consumer complaints and inquiries. Even now as she has reached her retirement age, she never stops traveling on behest of the government, such as the ministries of tourism, trade, and education, to help others in need. “I travel so often to the countryside and help small scale businesses to promote their products in the best way possible”, she explained. When she’s assigned for her provincial duties, she always brings a goodie bag filled with sophisticated product packages. “I teach everyone to always design their products appealingly and equip it with detailed information. I told them that if they don’t do this, then consider your product left forsaken on some forgotten corner in a market”, she said bluntly but also giving the people she’s teaching to some values as well. “If you can make it as attractive as possible, then you are more than ready to compete even with imported goods”, she continued. Even with this, it is a long way to go. But guess what? Probably the local food product that you randomly see on the market was designed well because of one of her many good deeds. If you or anyone else like it and feel that everything’s getting better, then it’s a good sign that Indonesian products may be ready to compete in an all out manner. As we go to sleep, oftentimes anxiously thinking about what will happen in the future with our pride as a big nation, the concerted actions of people that come from many expertise are what that drives this country for a better tomorrow. Ibu Linda Adimidjaja is one of them.
STUFF OF LEGENDS
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PA N T R Y 1 0 1
Pancakes Galore by KYLE GREGORIO
Pancakes are not just for Pancake Day (Shrove Tuesday). As you can see in our collection of pancakes from around the world, almost every country has their style and certainly do not keep them for simply one day of the year.
Crêpes – France A crêpe is a type of very thin, cooked pancake usually made from wheat flour. The word, like the pancake itself, is of French origin, deriving from the Latin word crispa, meaning “curled.” While crêpes originate from Brittany, a region in the northwest of France, their consumption is nowadays widespread in France and is considered the national dish. Crêpes can be compared to the African injera, the tortilla, the Indian dosa and the Mexican sope. Crêpes often have a fruit filling of syrup, mixed berries, fresh fruit or lemon cream.
Poffertjes – Netherlands Poffertjes are a Dutch batter treat, similar to small pancakes. These little morsels are slightly round and puffy and are made with buckwheat flour and yeast. A special pan is used to make poffertjes, and special forks are used to turn them in the pan. Poffertjes are popular at summer festivals and other outdoor events, where they typically are served on little paper or cardboard containers with various toppings. Traditionally, the dish is served with melted butter and powdered sugar.
These pancakes have a light and spongy texture and their flavor only hints of the richness and tanginess that buttermilk offers. You begin these pancakes as you would any regular pancake batter; by whisking together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar. Only instead of using milk, eggs, and melted butter to bind the dry ingredients together, you replace the milk with buttermilk. The buttermilk pancakes are so good with pure maple syrup, but also try them with butter and jam.
Buttermilk Pancakes – USA
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Pikelets – Australia Pikelets are basically a mini pancake. They are not served with maple syrup, however; they are generally eaten with jam and whipped cream. And you can eat them either cold or warm, whereas for pancakes, it’s definitely best to eat them warm. You’ll only need 4 ingredients - flour, sugar, milk and eggs (plus some melted butter to grease the pan) to make pikelets.
Traditional Russian blini are made with a yeast-raised buckwheat flour batter and have a nutty flavor. They symbolize the sun and take center stage at maslenitsa (also known as Butter Week, Pancake Week or Cheesefare Week), a spring festival marking the end of winter. Today, blini are prepared hundreds of ways - with white flour only, cornmeal, sweet, savory, you name it. And their accompaniments have gone beyond the traditional caviar, smoked salmon, minced onion and chopped eggs.
Blini – Russia
Surabi are flat roundish pancakes that are the Indonesian version of western pancakes. It can be found all around Indonesia and is served in many different styles, depending on its origin. It is basically made from rice flour with coconut milk or just plain shredded coconut as an emulsifier. Commonly in Bandung, surabi can be enjoyed plain, with egg added into it, sprinkled with oncom - a traditional Sundanese ingredient - or with a sauce made from palm sugar. Famous surabi variant from Solo is called surabi notosuman.
Surabi – Indonesia
W H AT C H E F E AT S
GIANLUCA VISCIGLIA by RIAN FARISA
“R
isotto alla Milanese!”, he decisively answered. Chef Gianluca Visciglia, the recently appointed executive chef for Intercontinental Midplaza Jakarta, was never hesitatant to admit that when asked about his favorite dish ever. Among the countless dishes spanning from the northern, central, and southern part of the country; the simple but sure risotto alla Milanese is always a good choice in any given Italian restaurant. But for him, it’s more than just that. “First of all, my hometown is Merate, a beautiful small town situated perfectly between Milan and Como. That’s why Lombardy cuisine became so influential in my family”, he said. During wintertime, the chef and his family usually have risotto, ossobuco, as well as cassoeula – a kind of pork stew with vegetables. “Both of my parents are wonderful home cooks and I got a lot of influence from my dad. I observed him, I learned from him, and decided that my passion
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Some Italian chefs that I know usually have something in common aside from their unparalleled cooking skills. They’re all bubbly, friendly, but also sentimental at the same time. Let us see how this chef shares the whimsicality of his beloved favorite dish from home.
was to become a chef. However when it comes to risotto, I am siding with my mother. My dad never likes it for some reason”, shared the chef jovially. How does it differ from the rest? I asked the chef. “Well, when my mom cooks the risotto, she always does it properly. Starting from scratch with fresh ingredients, she then uses the bone marrow, good chicken stock, and saffron with a bit of gremolata on top. I just love everything about it. The consistency and the creaminess was just perfect”, answered Chef Gianluca. I was honored with the opportunity to taste the recreation of his mother’s risotto and I must admit that even a stranger like me could fall in love immediately with the dish. Chef Gianluca himself is already familiar with Indonesia. He was once appointed as a head chef around ten years ago for a renowned
Italian restaurant chain in Jakarta. Afterwards, he had his spell at five-star hotels in Oman and The Philippines at Boracay and Cebu totaling for around seven years. “So when I first came to Asia, I was sincerely happy. I’m an Italian that loves rice a lot!” again he remarked it enthusiastically. Just around two months ago, he returned to Jakarta to helm this iconic Italian restaurant. With this kind of spirit, expect to enjoy hearty Italian fares here.