THE FOODIE MAGAZINE MAY 2014

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TRIED AND TESTED

FRUITS OF THE SEA

INSIDE

Chef Matt Demery of C’s Ocean by Real Food Concept Craving for Crustaceans Wine and Seafood

MAY 14 | volume 1, Issue 05

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TRIED AND TESTED

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TRIED AND TESTED

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P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E

Publisher Richmond Blando Editor-at-Large Jed V. Doble Art Director Juke Bachtiar

LOVE – HATE Food is funny at times, well, maybe it’s more appropriate to say that people are funny. I don’t remember the exact time when I started liking a particular food, unless it was a recent discovery, but I remember when the exact time I chose not to like a dish, liver steak to be exact (but that is another story). The thing about food and people is that there will ALWAYS be a story behind it. A love story begins with a “meet-cuteâ€? or a magical moment of how two people meet, through serendipity, hateful encounters or awkward setups like online dating, then from there a relationship develops and blossoms. So it is with our stories with food. Seafood however, is probably the only food group I know that I grew up hating and loving at the same time. My mom always categorized me as a “lazy eaterâ€?. I disliked digging through crab claws because I got a small cut in my finger, but I love crab-fried rice. I hated peeling shrimps or prawns because of the mess, but I love it in dishes when it is served peeled already like thermidor and, yes, you guessed it, shrimp fried rice. I hate combing through fish meat for bones because there was a time when a bone got stuck in my throat for days, but I love the fish fillets or types of fish with very few bones. You get the picture. Of course, as I got older, the need to impress dates who loved seafood forced me to evolve from a bratty, picky and lazy eater to the messy, finger-licking, sauce-dipping eater of seafood. I use “eaterâ€? because I still would not consider myself a lover of seafood. Meaning if there was a chicken wing next to a seafood dish, I will most definitely pick the drumstick. The ironic part is that, if I look at a menu and see Bouillabaisse or tuna salad vs a Wagyu steak or roasted chicken, the fish would win. Don’t ask me to explain why, I don’t even understand it myself. From the “meet-cuteâ€? to what it is today, I can consider myself to be married to seafood for this reason‌ I love it even when I hate it. If you’re married you’ll know what I mean.

Editor

Rafael Reyes

Photographer

Dennie Benedict

Contributors

Himawan Sutanto Rian Farisa Akhmad Baihaki (Aki) Adithya Pratama Amit Kar Tiko Sukarso

Administration

Distribution

Boedy Astuti

Mukti Pelupessy

‘Nuff said. RICHMOND BLANDO

PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI 7Y 4b[NdN_ZN[ [\ # { 8RONf\_N[ /N_b @\baU 7NXN_aN { 6[Q\[R`VN Tel: +62 21 2905 3959 www.thefoodiemag.com

Photograph by ALEXANDER SHERSTOBITOV

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E D I TO R ’ S N OT E

Fruits of the Sea I would have to say that seafood is not my go-to for a ‘happy’ meal. Although, I genuinely love eating seafood. The sheer variety of seafood available in the markets and restaurants, ultimately deserved an issue devoted to it. The copiousness of the sea, cannot be taken lightly. 6 dVYY UNcR a\ NT_RR dVaU 0URS 8RcV[ 0Ub[T \S D /NYV dUR[ UR says that seafood, particularly crabs, which are his favorite, have to be eaten with your hands. You have to get down and dirty, to get into the cavities of the crab to release its sweet flesh. I was the lazy one, I had to coerce my mom or grandma to do the de-shelling for me! Hmmmm‌ Maybe now I know why seafood isn’t my go-to food, I didn’t want to work for my food! All that said, I have to say, I really enjoy eating seafood in its many forms. Shellfish and clams are my big favorite. Oysters especially, with the green clams following second. I relish eating fresh oysters, dipping them in a bit of vinegar, with shallots and garlic. The acidity slowly cleansing my palate from the fishy flavor of the oysters. Same with the green clams, which I enjoy steamed or baked. This issue mirrors the abundance of the sea with it’s variety. Our article on crustaceans names our five favorite places to get your fix. Jakarta newcomer, Chef Matt Demery of C’s Steak and Seafood at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta shares some of his gorgeously ]YNaRQ `RNS\\Q QV`UR` 0URS 8RcV[ a\\ \S D /NYV `UN_R` _RPV]R` \S his favorite crustacean dishes. We have a colorful feature on the seafood markets of Dubai and Sydney by Chef Adith Pratama. And my dear friend, Haseena Bharata helps us figure out seafood wine pairings with the delicious food created by Chef Guillermo Varela Mata of The Hermitage Hotel. Our resident foodie, Rian Farisa picks his favorite seafood hawker places too. This issue is net-ful of seafood in different shapes, flavors and prices. All enjoyable and extremely delicious! Happy reading and eating! JED V. DOBLE Editor at Large

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C O N T R I B U TO R S

THE GUEST LIST

HIMAWAN SUTANTO

RIAN FARISA

AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI)

Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.

Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomyaficionado.com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife.

Entusiastic and dedicated Aki has been a proffesional photographer for over 10 years now. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time, he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.

Photographer

Writer

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Photographer

ADITHYA PRATAMA

Amit Kar

TIKO SUKARS0

With two diplomas in pastry & bakery arts, Adithya finds himself engulfed with chocolate and butter all the time. Out of the kitchen, he’s an aspiring food and travel writer, food stylist and an avid scuba diver. When no one is looking, he will concede to a bar of Valrhona’s Araguani.

Amit is a freelance semi-pro photographer who will take on any excuse to forget about his day job and get his camera out. Amit’s photograph have been on display in little corners of the world, from a literary festival in the US to small exhibitions in Muscat, Oman, and have punched above their weight in international competition. His very understanding wife and two sons have trailed him around the world to Dubai, where they now all live.

Tiko is extremely creative and always bursting with energy. His joie de vivre is immediately palpable and this shows in all his creations and endeavors. He is in the process of designing his home in Jogjakarta so don’t be surprised if you see him jetting off every weekend. A reminder though, to the uninitiated, it may be hard to get a word in during a conversation, this guy can talk!

Writer

Photographer

Illustrator

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

The Foodie magazine volume 1, Issue 05

Things That Make You Go Yum 12

Fruits Of The Sea

The Foodie’s List 14 16 18

Riva Grill Bar And Terrace Three Buns Hawker House Heats Up W Bali’s Fire

Cover Feature: Fruits Of The Sea 20 26 32 38

Savoring Seafood Craving For Crustaceans Edible Art A Vision For Real Food

Special 44 Leading With My Palate

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Went There Ate That 48 A Tale Of Two Markets

Tried And Tipsied 54 A Perfect Pair

The Finer Things 60 Into The Bloo

Culture 62 Foodology: Choco Facts

Taking It To The Streets 64 Ikan Bakar Nila 8UN` =NQN[T /N[T AURZZf 66 Santiga Seafood Benhil

Iconic 68 Mandala

Confessions Of A Foodie 70 Ade Andrini

A Foodie’s Life 72 Sandra Djohan

Maya’s Musings 76

The Island Getaway

Tried And Tested 80 Seabass In The Sky 84 Do Try This At Home

Stuff Of Legends 86 Yono Purnomo – The Frontier Indonesian Chef

Pantry 101 90 Pearly Shells

What Chef Eats 92 Slamet “Uki” Basuki www.thefoodiemag.com | 11

A 5 6 ; 4 @ A 5 .A : . 8 2 F < B 4 < F B : by RIAN FARISA

Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best

food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag

@antzl33

@fennysiawijaya

@billyoscar

@cc _ oysterfest

@gastroficionado

@jaimymccarthy

@joefed94

@june _ bbi

@mrdenys

@nosydog

@omardjorghi @prakaiyally 12 | www. thefoodiemag.com

A 5 6 ; 4 @ A 5 .A : . 8 2 F < B 4 < F B : Seafood can be savored fresh like sashimi or sushi. Or do you like them made into a royal treat like in paella or having it the expensive way like with uni or oysters? These guys sure know how to have their seafood enjoyed in so many ways. How about you then?

@redwackyx

@petite _ konomi

@rezaeats @starvingsilvy

@theparking

@winawilanisa

@woywoyfishermenswharf @chefantoniopark

@anjaarmic

@chefkappa

@markmollica

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F O O DI E L I S T S

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RIVA GRILL BAR AND TERRACE by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

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I might be missing the original Riva as one of the old guards of French cuisine in Jakarta, but I am also excited at the same time with the huge effort The Park Lane Hotel has done to rejuvenate the restaurant into something fresh and inviting.

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iva is after all a magical name that the hotel will not replace despite of the restaurant’s new concept. We all have to admit that the name bears a charm in it and it is actually, simply irreplaceable after all. So, after the (long) wait of several months, what used to be a retro-looking French restaurant has now become different, in a really good way. Riva has turned itself into both a restaurant and a bar at the same time. The French restaurant is no longer there but the blast from the past is kept dearly as you can see from the menu, where you can find its legendary Côte de Boeuf, Duck Magret, and also the Grand Marnier SoufflÊ that has a taste so elegant that I can still remember until this moment. There’s a clear separation between the restaurant, the bar, and also the outdoor lounge overlooking The Park Lane Hotel’s also recently revamped swimming pool. It’s a sentimental moment for me to see the restaurant side on the left upon entering Riva, because it still retains the open kitchen with several old paintings that Riva had back then. Aside from that, it has become a stylish restaurant with a contemporary touch with a jazzy theme and plenty of natural light, making it vigorous but also romantic. What makes the new Riva interesting also is the menu itself. A wide array of cuisines from around the world await everyone’s visit to be savored and being a fan of Executive Chef Deden Gumilar’s cooking skills, exploring Riva was a task that I carried on happily. For the small bites, we started from a really appetizing crab meat salad with

apple, artichoke, semi sundried tomato, and with pineapple dressing. While for the hot appetizer, then came the Moroccan lamb kofta with fresh tomato, garlic, and basil sauce. The mains selections are probably one of the most exciting parts. The prime cut steaks, which are actually the heritage of The Park Lane Hotel’s Stix steakhouse, came from different farmers and have a wide range of marbling grades for you to choose from. However if you’re in doubt, again I recommend you to try the good old CĂ´te de Boeuf for your romantic date. If at times you’d like to rather have something casual, Riva’s gourmet pizza is also a wonderful alternative especially because last time, we had a really delicious duck and hoisin sauce pizza – something that you won’t find anywhere else! It’s definitely something really suitable for you to try while hanging out at the new bar and enjoying their signature cocktails or the classic ones. The desserts are definitely not short in creativity. Among the French heritage Riva still retains such as the soufflĂŠ, crème brulee, and also the cheese, the restaurant now presents the colorful fruits gellee with two sorbets or the flourless chocolate cake from the sweet side. While the concept was thoroughly thought of from start to finish, Riva bravely shows up having everything that a crowd needs from a fancy restaurant and also a lively bar under one roof. But for a five star hotel, you’d be surprised that Riva promotes its menu for an affordable price but with a guaranteed high-end quality.

?6C. 4?699 /.? .;1 A2??.02 i AUR =N_X 9N[R 5\aRY 7NYN[ 0N`NOYN[PN 8Nc % 7NXN_aN i # % % www.rivagrillnbar | Facebook: Riva Grill Bar Terrace

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THREE BUNS by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

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For quite some time now, Jakartans have been eagerly awaiting for a cool burger joint to open in the city. Thanks to the Potato Head family, the wait is over, with the opening recently of Three Buns.

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hree Buns opened with a bang and is a shot in the arm for the Jakarta culinary scene. It is a prime example of how a fresh eatery concept, or in this case – a burger joint, can get all the rage! The first visual you see when you arrive at Three Buns is the old van at the façade, which doubles as the order counter. The space is actually designed as a warehouse filled with wooden block furniture and has a multi tier design. Green plants and focused lighting add to the mood and feel. Since it is not your typical burger place, the bustling open kitchen wherein the staff is busy preparing the burgers becomes a focal point. Their long bar towards the right of the space is where their creative nostalgic sodas and bottled cocktails are dispensed. The heart and soul of the burger-making operation is Chef Adam Penney, who has been brought in from London specifically for Three Buns. A veteran of some of the B8x` SV[R`a _R`aNb_N[a XVaPUR[` .QNZ dN` previously behind the enormous critical success of London’s ‘Patty & Bun’–a burger restaurant described by Time Out as having “a reputation for London’s finest burgers” and the “burger supremo.” His cooking marries his rigorous classical training with a deep passion for simple and honest food with hard hitting flavors. The gourmet burgers and sides demonstrate Chef Adam’s talent, love of

high quality meat and sauces and years of research to create the perfect burger. Using the finest Australian Brahman beef and a bespoke artisan bun, and cooked precisely to medium unless otherwise requested. The ‘Baby Huey’–a classic cheeseburger with slow cooked ketchup, smoky mustard and paprika mayo–and the ‘Burning Man’ garnished with roasted jalapeno peppers, cheese and a Japanese mayonnaise made with shaved bonito and seaweed kombu are the highlights. For sides, you can choose from their ‘Naughty Fries’–twice cooked, hand cut potatoes smothered in a gojuchang aUR 8\_RN[ P\[QVZR[a _VPU dVaU `]VPf umami flavor) béarnaise and beef chilli–or the ‘Wing Its’–twice fried yoghurt milk breaded chicken wings in a spicy sauce. The individual dessert puddings of ‘Spiced Chocolate’ or ‘Lemon Posset’ are a perfect ending to a great meal. World-renowned mixologist Dre Masso creates cocktails which reflect the restaurant’s philosophy of simplicity, innovation and quality. House-made natural sodas, craft bottled cocktails as well as frozen coladas are perfectly paired with the burgers. You may want to say that the crowds queuing outside before opening hours may be exaggerated, but I would want to believe that there is a reason why everyone is flocking to Three Buns. Give it a try and tell us what you think.

THREE BUNS | Jalan Senopati no. 90, Jakarta | +62 21 2930 7780 www.threebuns.com | Facebook: Three Buns | Instagram: @burgerandheads

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Hawker House Heats Up W Bali’s Fire by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

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W Bali has transformed it’s popular FIRE Sunday brunch into a bustling Southeast Asian marketplace via it’s Hawker House Street Feast.

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8 PURS =RaR_ 9Y\fQ dU\ V` 2eRPbaVcR Chef of W London - Leicester Square and Spice Market London visited Bali to collaborate with Richard Millar, Director of Cuisine W Bali for the launch. The pair created dishes and unique culinary concepts that put a spin on the traditional brunch. Taking inspiration from the colorful hawker food of Southeast Asia, the two chefs have created a delectable array of specialty dishes for FIRE. Richard with his local experience has added a unique Balinese twist while Peter, an expert in Thai

and Malaysian cuisines, notably shares his Taste of London 2012 award winning dish, Black Pepper Shrimp with Sundried Pineapple. With colorful trader stalls and food carts, Hawker House heightens the senses and brings together flavors from all over the region into a brunch experience guests will not easily forget. There are Asian noodle yum boxes, steamed buns, mixed satays, gourmet popcorn, and desserts like Es Campur with live ice shavings and fruit carvings. Designed to encourage diners to experiment, share and savour, Hawker House is a great way to spend your Sunday.

FIRE, W Retreat & Spa Bali, Seminyak | Jalan Petitenget ·∙ Seminyak, Bali | +62 361 3000 106 www.wretreatbali.com | Facebook: W Retreat & Spa, Bali | Twitter: @WBali | Instagram: @WBaliSeminyak

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Savoring Seafood by JED DOBLE photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO illustrations by TIKO SUKARSO

Missouri native, Matt Demery is the new chef de cuisine at C’s Steak and Seafood Restaurant of the Grand Hyatt Jakarta. He recently showed off some excellent seafood dishes for us, for this month’s issue.

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hef Matt knew that he wanted to be a chef from a very young age. He chose to pursue a job which he was very passionate about and that was food. He studied at the New England Culinary Institute then later on took his first job as a chef in 2003 at The Home Ranch, a Relais & Chateaux dude ranch property in Colorado. In 2007, after having enough of the cowboy’s life, Chef Matt moved to the Blue Duck Tavern Restaurant at the Park Hyatt Washington, DC. The restaurant has won many notable accolades and awards with the help of Chef Matt, including being ranked #7 (3 out of 4 stars) in the prestigious Washingtonian’s list of the “100 Very Best Restaurants� in January 2014. In addition the Blue Duck Tavern was named a “Notable Hotel Restaurant� in the “Outstanding Hotel Restaurant, greater than 100 rooms� category by Saveur magazine in December 2013. The next big leap for Chef Matt has been his move to Jakarta, where he is ready to showcase his innovative and creative style of cooking. “My initial impression of Jakarta is that it is a huge city and I love being here.� A far cry from the cities Matt

has lived in, but also very interesting, he says. “The people are great and I am looking forward to getting to know the city more.� We recently caught up with Matt for some fish talk. “I love eating seafood!� he exclaims. He says that he will never pass up the opportunity to eat his seafood favorites, which include oysters, clams and sea urchin. He then goes on to describe one of his most memorable seafood dishes he has ever had: a scallop crudo, with sea urchin and chili. He tells us that his favorite seafood to cook with is fresh fish. “I like the flavor profiles of different fish species and find it challenging to match them with different ingredients to come up with dishes.� He continues: “I like cooking with flavors that compliment the delicate flavor of seafood and not overpower it. I like to use a lot of citrus flavors like lime and lemon as well as fresh herbs which go great with seafood.� This is clearly seen in the Spotted Sea Trout Crudo with smoked roe, citrus and chili which Chef Matt prepared for us, wherein the citrus and chili highlighted the sweetness of the fish. Matt also prepared a Spiny lobster salad with lychee, coconut and coriander, Pan roasted scallop with

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carrot puree, raisins, celery leaf and cashews and a Crispy skin snapper with charred eggplant puree, lemon and edamame. All perfect examples of his creativity in combining subtle flavors to emphasize the main ingredients. After talking about the fishy stuff, we discuss Chef Matt’s life outside the kitchen. He tells us that he likes to get out and spend time outdoors. Probably this comes from his living in a dude ranch, our chef is a cowboy, it seems. I tell him that Indonesia, albeit very different from the wilderness and excitement of the West, also has its great outdoors, with volcanoes, mountain ranges, forests, beaches and islands. To close, I ask Matt, my favorite question when it comes to interviewing foodies, what is his food guilty pleasure. He gives in and says that it is anything sweet, apparently the charming chef has a sweet tooth. Sample Chef Matt’s new menu at C’s Steak and Seafood Restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta if you have the chance. If you spy the handsome young chef, do say hi, he is quite friendly and will definitely ensure that you have a great meal.

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PAN ROASTED SCALLOP CARROT PUREE, RAISINS, CELERY LEAF, CASHEW

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SPOTTED SEA TROUT CRUDO SMOKED ROE, CITRUS, CHILI

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SPINY LOBSTER SALAD LYCHEE, COCONUT, CORIANDER

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CRISPY SKIN SNAPPER CHARRED EGGPLANT PUREE, LEMON, EDAMAME

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CRAVING FOR CRUSTACEANS by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT & RIAN FARISA

You have to admit that the best way to enjoy seafood is by getting down and dirty with your hands and eat as you please! Crack the shell, break the joints, pull the luscious meat out and dip them into spicy sauces, with crustaceans it is all simply worth the effort. This month, we choose some of the best places around town where you can really have the best crustaceans be it from the bustling street side shack and up to the comfy seat restaurants.

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hile still considered as a relatively new player, The Holy Crab has quickly risen to prominence with its fancy crab selection, the Louisiana-style hot sauce and the traditional way of having it all! Located conveniently at Jalan Gunawarman, The Holy Crab conjures up a comfortable atmosphere that intertwines the traditional fisherman’s wharf feel complemented with a ship’s bell and dominated by wooden décor, and during dining hours, it becomes very lively with the scene of customers enjoying their loot and hard core blues tunes playing. Their crab selection is to die for. The Holy Crab provides an assortment of local blue crab, mud crab and prawns, plus their one and only premium Dungeness Crab, flown directly from Washington State. Weighing between 1 to 1.5 kgs per crab, they are exquisitely sweet and combine well with the Cajun sauce that is made up of cayenne pepper, bell peppers, lemon, and garlic. Additionally, we enjoyed so much the accompaniment of the fulfilling yet juicy SYR`U \S .YN`XN[ 8V[T 0_NO YRT` NY\[T`VQR sweet corn and fantastic local prawns. The whole idea of getting your hands dirty is reinforced by the crab boil-style, no plates or utensils way eating, wherein the food is served directly onto the paper lined table.

THE HOLY CRAB | Jalan Gunawarman no. 55, Jakarta | +62 21 2923 6155 | www.theholycrab.co.id Opens for dinners only, except in weekends (lunch & dinner)

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he innovative chef Afit Purwanto who is known from his highly successful Holycow! Steakhouse venture, started another initiative that involves lobsters and shrimps that goes by the name Loobie just last year. Continuing his same recipe of success, Loobie presents the customers with affordably-priced lobsters and its other crustacean family such as shrimps and crabs. Grilling the crustaceans is the style here, you will find the lobsters are grilled yet they keep the sweet and savory flavors intact. Lobster platters in Loobie usually involve prawns and fried calamari alongside with rice and the much-loved sambal matah but they all come with a highly reasonable price, even for their imported Maine lobsters! While both the Maine lobsters and local are good in their own way and really worth the try, we were impressed with one of the latest Loobie additions on the menu, the baby lobsters with Singaporeanstyle chili sauce, which we all know usually applied for crabs. The baby lobsters are just too good to be true and especially if combined with the ginger-y sweet and spicy sauce, it was simply awesome! Be sure to try the black pepper version for the crabs as well. This is the reason people seemed to be okay with waiting and queuing at their first outlet on Jalan Gunawarman. Lucky for us, they now they have a bigger outlet on Jalan Panglima Polim.

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LOOBIE LOBSTERS & SHRIMPS | Jalan Gunawarman no. 32 & Jalan Panglima Polim no. 21, Jakarta +62 21 527 0673 | www.loobielobster.com | Opens for dinners only, except in weekends (lunch & dinner)

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s a Singapore franchise, Manhattan Fish Market was launched in Jakarta a few years ago. Since their restaurant concept was all about serving the diversity of seafood and having the freshest catch of the day, their name is inspired by New York’s famed Fulton Fish Market. Seafood has always been known to be colorful in presentation and they should always be. That’s why one should not dare to miss the seafood platters that have become the signature dishes at MFM. With so many combinations of the platters, the flaming lobster set for us is the biggest treat, complete with fish fingers, garlic herb mussels, and fried calamari, it will definitely end the hunt for great seafood lovers. Another MFM delight is the Manhattan Flaming Prawns which made us fall in love instantly. The fancy dish is all about perfectly grilled tiger prawns and fries blanketed with a rich and special mayonnaise sauce, flamed with the torch, you can enjoy sweetness from the caramelization. Even before that, MFM will make you excited with the whole torching process. Surely you can imagine what happens to the dish after thoroughly served to you? Squeaky clean!

:.;5.AA.; 36@5 :.?82A i @U\]]V[T ZNYY` Na 7NXN_aN N[Q /NYV i ddd ZN[UNaaN[SV`UZN_XRa P\Z Opens all day (mall opening hours)

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hen first D’Cost opened less than a decade ago, many people were amazed at how affordable they made seafood even if it was served in a restaurant. This has made them extremely popular and as a testament to that, you may always have to queue to eat at one of their branches, now found in most cities in Indonesia. Yes, they have grown so huge! Probably it’s just a personal soft spot but I suppose everybody will agree when it comes to the prawns at D’Cost. Be it my favorite grilled variety served with sweet soy sauce, the salted egg prawns or the fusion kind that involves mayonnaise and Indonesians’ favorite with saos Padang (Padangnese-style spicy sauce). The price gap of D’Cost compared with hawker stalls is very small, making it a reasonable option, plus the portions are also bountifully fulfilling. Other crustaceans on the menu include bamboo crabs and the sought after soft shell crabs. You might not find lobsters or crawfishes, but certainly you will satiate your crustacean cravings. Be sure also to utilize D’Cost’s crazy promotions for your benefit, from their pay-as-you-like promotion to wedding promotion where you will only need to pay when the wife’s get pregnant! Fun and affordable!

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et’s call it, splurging economically, wanting to spend a bigger budget but still not breaking the bank. I’m sure you can relate to this. Seafood hawkers are among the best choices to splurge economically. They are lively, have plenty of dish options, and of course, have crustaceans every day! Among the top favorites, people may go for are boiled shrimps. You may even witness people who only eat so many shrimps without rice! Crab is of course, are a highlyprized treat that people reserve for special occasions. For that, we decided to savor the crab dish with Padang sauce from Seafood 45, just a few hundred meters away before Cipete intersection if you’re coming from Blok M. Considering the moderate size, the flesh was pretty abundant for two people, especially if you’re the type who fancies sucking it down from the tiny crevices. In addition, the sweet and savory butter-sauce stir-fry prawns were also a delectable option. We all do love to have something rather sweet in nature especially after the fiery Padang sauce of the crab. Complement it all with the vegetables and warm rice, and that’s pretty much it - your once-in-a-while luxury right down in the neighborhood on the side of the street.

SEAFOOD 45 | Jalan R.S. Fatmawati no. 45, Jakarta | +62 21 9530 5999 Opens everyday from 6pm until finish

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EDible Art by RICHMOND BLANDO photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT & TAKUMI

Art is found everywhere and anything that instills emotion is, by definition, art. Paintings, music, acting and food are all forms of art. The word “artisan”, in Japanese is … Takumi.

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estled in the heart of Senayan’s busiest area, in between the two malls, is the iconic Senayan Golf Course and in the city’s popular Golf Course is the Japanese Robata themed restaurant – Takumi. While many normally elect to look for a Japanese dining experience in malls and hotels, Takumi offers a perfect ambience for meetings and casual dining. Gracefully designed in soft wood motif, the interior has a high ceiling and a view that is overlooking the greenery of the golf course. Every time I come here, the laidback atmosphere easily changes any foul day into a place of refuge and comfort. Their food brings to mind the Northern Japanese cuisine that is known for simple yet elegant dishes. While their name suggests that they boast of a robata grill, which does

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a very traditional cooking technique, the other items on the menu can easily become the star of your dining experience. Takumi offers more of a high end Japanese fusion food in its repertoire, however, traditional dishes like Sashimi Moriawase (assorted raw fish cuts) and Chawanmushi (savory egg custard) can still be found in the menu. I have eaten in there about five to eight times since they opened so this is not some flash-in-pan review. While a lot of good restaurants are on the receiving end of a good fad or a trendy viral social tweet or status, newfound fame can be short lived. Later on, others find themselves losing on their quality to keep up with the sudden influx of diners. Takumi, on the other hand, seems to go on an opposite direction, and that’s a good thing.

Though I do not share the views of these would-be critics and bloggers who came only once (and they do have a right to their own opinion) as they make snap judgments like “I will never eat there again.” I, on the other hand, have witnessed (and tasted) the progression of Takumi’s dishes. Call it a “changing of the guard” or “being under new management”, whatever the reason, the result is only one… the food got better. From the simplicity of their Salmon donburi, the sweet and tangy of the Salmon Teriyaki, the light and yet filling Wagyu Yakiniku salad and their smoky Robata Fishes. The key to any good dish is the quality and freshness of the ingredients, that’s 60% of the battle won and having a great chef who understands the customer makes a home run.

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C O V E R F E AT U R E 6 Q_\]]RQ Of ANXbZV a\ PUNa dVaU 0URS 8bQ\ Masakazu about his story and his journey as a chef in Indonesia. As most Japanese nationals I’ve grown to know and respect, 0URS 8bQ\ UN` YRN_[RQ a\ `]RNX /NUN`N Indonesia (albeit the accent) better than I ever have. This gives me a clue to how much of a dedication he gives his craft, not just as a chef, but as a business man in the culinary industry.

RB: Can you explain what Robata is traditionally?

Richmond Blando (RB): When and why did you become a chef? What do you specialize in?

RB: What is the most important thing about making Sashimi/Sushi?

Chef Kudo Masakazu (CKM): I started when I was 18. After school, I went to work at different restaurants in Tokyo and Nagoya. Though my father was a chef and restaurateur he did not allow me to work under him because he didn’t want people to see any favoritism of any kind. He told me that I have to get the experience the hard way in order for me to appreciate this business. But I mainly get my inspiration to cook from my mom. In our family, she only fed us home cooked meals. Nothing was bought that was already baked or precooked. RB: How are you adjusting to Takumi? CKM: Everyone has been very kind to me. People here may not understand Japanese cuisine as good as the other restaurants, but their heart to learn makes them invaluable to me.

CKM: Robata is a style of cooking from Hokkaido. The way we grill the fish, gives the fish a crispy exterior while the fish meat itself remains juicy. We serve fish that are in season, since it is Spring, we serve the Ayu fish, which is a fresh water fish that is found only in Japan.

CKM: Freshness. Japanese cuisine, unlike French does not rely on sauces, so if the ingredients are good, the dish will speak for itself. Also, for sushi and sashimi, it has to be served and eaten right away. That’s why I encourage people to sit at the bar if all they will eat is sushi or sashimi. RB: DUNa V` N QNf V[ aUR YVSR \S 0URS 8bQ\, CKM: The very first thing I do when I arrive at the restaurant is I taste every sauce and ingredients that come. I check and make corrections. After this, I make sure I call suppliers from Tsukiji to see what is new and fresh, after that I also call people I know in the business to seek their input. During lunch or dinner, I go out and entertain customers; I do this to get feedback. RB: What is your most important cooking tool? CKM: My knives and my “heart.� When I say “heart�, it just means I need to always

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be willing to listen to my customers first, then my staff next. Then be willing to make necessary changes to the food and to my style of management. RB: What is your favorite food outside of Takumi? CKM: Definitely Padang food, especially beef rendang. RB: What do you cook at home? CKM: When I go home to Japan, my mom does not allow me to cook, she insists on cooking for me. It makes her happy. RB: What is your favorite cookbook? CKM: Believe it or not, I read more business and economic books, because it makes my customers happy that I can talk to them about their world. Like I said, the customer comes first, if the customer wants to talk about food I talk about food, but if the CEO of a company comes and talks to me about current politics and economics, I have to be knowledgeable about that also. If I were to describe my encounter with 0URS 8bQ\ y_RS_R`UV[Tz d\bYQ P\ZR a\ ZV[Q There are people in this profession that needs to be cut down a peg or two every now and then, but those humble enough to see things in the right perspective and be open enough to see the changes that need be, it can only mean that Takumi as a restaurant will only get better if the people behind it strives to be better also.

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TWG TEA SALON & BOUTIQUE | Plaza Senayan, Level 1, Jalan Asia Afrika, Jakarta | +62 21 572 5276 www.twgtea.com

C O V E R F E AT U R E

A Vision for Real Food by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

Arnold Poernomo, Talita Setyadi and Angela Stasia have banded together to create Real Food Concepts. These young and visionary chefs want to change the dining landscape of Jakarta, and after their first dinner, its seems, it just might work.

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ost of us who live in Jakarta are often craving for unique dining experiences in the city. I personally have come to the conclusion that many restaurants end up as hang out places and not as dining establishments. Thus when I got to know about the Real Food Concept, I was quite impressed. The vision of the group is clear, they want to challenge the status quo of the Jakarta dining scene. They intend to pioneer changes in the Indonesian F&B industry by challenging the norm. After attending their first dinner a few weeks ago, my first impressions were correctly founded. RFC wants to do themed popup dinners where they strive to use local ingredients and respect established cooking techniques. These dinners will be venues for these young guns to express their passion and excitement for food. The group’s big brother is Arnold Poernomo. Groomed and bred in Sydney, he is one of the current judges of MasterChef Indonesia. Having been exposed to the kitchen from a very young age, he decided when he was 14 that he wanted to embark on a culinary journey. Regarded as one of the best young chefs in Indonesia, Arnold is a creative force, pushing the boundaries of flavor and food concepts. Talita Setyadi is a pastry genius. She was best patisserie graduate at Le Cordon Bleu Paris in 2012. We featured her healthy Coco Mango Lassi Entremet in our January issue. She is also set to open her own patisserie later this year. Angela Stasia has worked in a number of top-ranked restaurants around the world. After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu London in 2012, she took a job at Ledbury in London, then at Quay in Sydney. Her Marylebone Fine Dining specializes in fine French cuisine. With a joint resume like that, one would not doubt the capabilities of these young chefs. Their first dinner, #01 Ocean, fit perfectly with our Fruits of the Sea theme this for this issue. After sampling the meal, my resolve is firm to help support them reach their goals of a better Jakarta dining scene. If you have the chance, do try their upcoming reprise of #01 Ocean on Friday, 17 May at the 1/15 Coffee Shop in Gandaria. Here’s wishing the Real Food Concept success in all their endeavors! Instagram: @realfoodconcept

01 Ocean

#

SNACKS Tuna, roe, jalapenos, anchovy mayo Escabeche, kaffir lime, turmeric foam and savory sand

ENTREE Tuna belly, foie gras mousse, caviar, yuzu and soy Sea consommé, scallops, octopus, shrimp, clams and sea urchin

MAINS Poached chicken, sweet shrimps, ebi, cauliflower puree and dashi Squid ink gnocchi, beef ribs, squid, red wine, and bok choy leaves

DESSERT “Maki” Spinach “nori”, vanilla rice pudding, baked pumpkin, palm sugar caramel, coconut pandan puree “Fishbowl” Dulse seaweed ice cream, Valrhona Caramelia and saba ganache purple sweet potato, raw cacao liquor, canary nut crumble, lime foam “Depth” Charcoal brioche, squid ink ice cream, honeycomb, black rice, black quinoa cous cous, black sesame puree, black sea salt

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SPECIAL

Leading with My Palate by RICHMOND BLANDO

My father has always taught me “…respecting food is equal to respecting people and in turn we are respecting and giving honor to God.” I mention this little tidbit because when I attended the World Gourmet Summit 2014, which was held from March 26 to April 5, it was entitled as “Back to the Classics,” it made me think of the first lesson about food that remains etched in my mind.

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ailed as “one of the six best gourmet events in the world” by Sydney Morning Herald, the 18th World Gourmet Summit showcased the great culinary talents all over the world through the various lineups of different classes, dinners and small conferences all led and held by renowned and award winning Masterchefs. The WGS reached a wide range of individuals in the culinary industry definitely poised to impress and delight gourmands, from eager children to curious foodies to stay at home moms to restaurateurs and those who just came along with their significant other. I was only able to catch the tail end

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of this two-week event, not knowing what to expect, deciding which event to go to was a bit daunting. As a traveler, I believe that experiencing culture has always been equated with experiencing local flavors. Gourmet food is no different, it tells us the story of how that culture has changed or evolved or it has even stayed the same despite the ever-changing times. I attended the class of Eu Yan Sang Four - Hands Culinary Workshop Featuring International Masterchef Arron Huang & Hosting Chef Yong Bing Ngen, since I always had a growing fascination for herbs and using herbs in cooking. Both chefs combined their experience to showcase the exuberant flavors of Eu Yan Sang’s

premium herbs. As fascinating as it was, I left it with the resolve of being satisfied with the experience of being there rather than leaving the ambition to learn the complexities of this particular cuisine. However, the event the next day was something I looked forward to in the WGS and that was the lecture and dinner held by Telmo Rodriguez and Masterchef Sergi Arola. Telmo Rodriguez is the wine maker ORUV[Q aUR 4NON Q\ E66 :R[PVN N[Q 9N[gNTN which had become one of my favorite Spanish wines in recent months. I am far from being an expert, but I know what I like. Sitting at the table was Chef Sergi’s and Telmo which allowed me to pick their mind the entire night.

SPECIAL

www.worldgourmetsummit.com

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SPECIAL Richmond Blando (RB): Telmo, what do you consider the best part of your job? Telmo Rodriguez (TR): I think it would be discovering the new location for a Vineyard. RB: Do you have a special technique? Or have a set of criteria to follow before you consider the area? TR: I am part of a family of winemakers; so fellow winemakers might understand this more. I smell the land and I know. RB: Really? TR: What most people fail to see is that a grape’s complexity is not in the flesh of the fruit but in the skin. The minerals from the soil, the branches and the leaves contribute to the flavor of the wine. So those who attempt to make wine from just the flesh will never make great wines, because there is no love.

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RB: Chef Sergi, many have said that molecular gastronomy is a fad and not a cuisine do you agree? Sergi Arola (SA): *#$%! What are you talking about? EVERYTHING is molecular, heating a piece of meat, mixing flavors and even eating raw food will give you a molecular reaction. That name is just coined by people who experiment with food, but in truth, it has been something in the middle of every cuisine, food evolves at a molecular level first. RB: So how do you best describe your profession? SA: Well, to be short and blunt, I aim to give immediate pleasure. I can only think of another profession who does that, but I won’t mention it here. RB: What do you feel like is the best part of the World Gourmet Summit?

TR: It’s great that they have something like this in Asia, wine was not that appreciated by the masses here for a long time, unlike Europe and it is nice to see that more and more Asians appreciate it today. SA: I have always loved Asia, I have a restaurant in Mumbai, so I spend a great deal of time in this part of the world, I am grateful for the W in hosting me and letting me showcase my cuisine. Singapore is the melting pot of many cultures and they are very appreciative of the world’s cuisine. For me it has been two days out of ten. Two short days of great food, people and culinary experiences. It could have been longer, but sometimes, the brief encounters are the ones you remember the most. All I know is, I have to go again next year.

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A Tale of Two Markets by ADITHYA PRATAMA photographs by AMIT KAR & JOHN PACITTO

Markets are always an interesting destination for any trip. Not only do they display a great range of products and goods that might not be found domestically, markets also give the cultural background of the locals’ lives through their daily bread. Chef Adithya Pratama recalls two of his most favorite markets, both of which happen to be fish markets.

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umor has it that Coenraad Johannes van Houten visited Java prior to his world-changing discovery that changed the world’s way of consuming chocolate in the early 19th century. Unfortunately, there are no historical records of such a visit. However, the history of Cocoa in Indonesia has dated almost a century before Van Houten’s discovery. DUBAI The taxi drove me across the Dubai Creek – the distinct separator between Old and New Dubai, and stopped by the Palm Deira Metro on that balmy winter morning. The gawking flock of seagulls and penetrating smell of the sea greeted me from in between crowds of haggling locals just as the freshest catch arrived at the big hollowed warehouse filled with lines of tables specifically designed to hold large amounts of ice to keep the goods fresh through the day. Dubai Fish Market is a cacophony of over 80 vendors that offer fresh catch from the Arabian Gulf that comes in every dawn. It opens as early as 6:00am and closes at noon, and then resumes at 4:00pm until 11:00pm with auctions being held for retailers and restaurants in the early morning. Piles of freshly caught carp and mackerel inside iceboxes were first to be seen as I walked into the complex. Followed by stacks of flounder, tuna and even baby barracuda were many of the common fish found alongside some lobster and prawns of all shapes and sizes, shiny white clams, baby octopus and stacks of blue wwimmers ready for purchase. Bargaining locals and uniformed vendors filled the room as they exchanged for the

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best price and creating the real market ambience that I longed for after spending few days trapped inside Dubai’s concrete jungle. The smell of fish guts and blood on the concrete floor eventually lead me to the small room with counters upfront: fish cleaning area. Housewives and buyers alike swarmed these counters, taking numbers for their bargains’ turn to be descaled and cleaned. For a few extra Dirhams, fish will also be portioned into desired cuts. Up for a last minute purchase? Packs of fresh salmon roe, sea cucumber and fish innards were sold by the counter. The strong iodine odor invited me over to the next part of the market where they sold some of the most amazing assortment of dried, cured, salted and smoked sea produce. From the common whitebaits to slices of salmon, all the produced were sold preserved in this area. I immediately imagined how salted salmon would taste if it was eaten alongside piping hot rice and a spoonful of sambal terasi. Craving for those fresh fruits of the sea? I opted for The Fish Basket at Oud Metha within the Bur Dubai vicinity. Serving Lebanese delicacies, the restaurant provides a wide selection of fresh seafood from the Fish Market that are spiced with Mediterranean flavors to give a distinct flavor and to wash off the fishy aroma. Don’t miss out on the fried Fish Roe, so fresh it tasted just like the sea with rough textures of the eggs that were pretty addictive. The juicy grilled shrimps and fried Sultan Ibrahim (red mullet) fish were also favored by many of the patrons alongside a classic Arabic Mezze of hummus, fatoush and muhammra.

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SYDNEY I used spend at least two Sundays a month at the pier by Blackwattle Bay slurping down freshly shucked oysters and sipping a good Semillon from The Hunter with couple of friends. I could easily call myself a regular at The Sydney Fish Market back then. As tourists, many would opt for Doyles right at the entrance of the market. As fancy as the view and as shiny as the plates, the $110 Seafood Platter didn’t impress me much compared to the simpler Platter for Two at Peter’s Fish Market a few doors inside the complex. At a mere $43, Peter’s Platter comes with crispy battered fish, barbecued octopus, breaded calamari, blushing pink prawns, kilpatrick and mornay oysters with chips loaded heavily with Aussie style chicken salt. Though they may say it was good for two, several times, I savored it with two or three friends. That’s amazing value! An order of a dozen oysters is compulsory too when I visit Sydney Fish Market. They come as far as New Zealand,

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the shellfish were served freshly shucked, au naturel on a bed of rock salt with lemon wedges. A distinct fresh sea aroma with just the right note of creaminess on the palate hits all the right spots and even better when paired with a good white wine. I would take the outdoor benches or would sit around the grassy patch on sun-drenched days to eat my spread while chasing hungry seagulls away. As the plates and glasses emptied, the Blackwattle Deli right across Peter’s was what I aimed for. Serving Toby’s Estate finest coffee, the deli also offers a good selections of Australian cheeses (Brie lined with black truffle? Yes, please!) and Pat & Stick’s Ice Cream Sandwich –I settled for the Vanilla Chocolate for the best of both worlds. A few cups later, I would find myself walking up the hilly road of Pyrmont towards Darling Harbor to head home thinking that a happy stomach would be a good reason why I should be ready for the upcoming Monday. I usually found out otherwise the next morning.

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A Perfect Pair by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT location L’AVENUE RESTAURANT, THE HERMITAGE HOTEL, JAKARTA

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

May of us often find it hard to pair food with wine. I wouldn’t want to presume to know much about wine, so I usually defer to the experts. A dear friend and woman about town, Haseena Bharata, helps us pair wine with these excellent seafood dishes.

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will assume that many people know Haseena Bharata. She can often be seen circulating about the social scene in Jakarta and Bali. She wears many hats. She is Vice President for Sales and Marketing of PT Maxima Realty and PT Mugie Bali, which are developing a few luxury properties around the country. She is a fashion personality, always impeccably dressed and groomed whenever I see her. She is an actress, her first movie was released earlier this year. But I guess, the most admirable title she would always wear proudly is her being a mom to her two loveable children, Raul and Pareeza. When I first broached the idea for this article to Haseena, she was immediately game for it. “It could be a great way to introduce wines to your readers,” she said

enthusiastically. When I asked where she wanted to go for the food, she immediately put forward L’Avenue at the newly opened Hermitage Hotel. In the heart of Jakarta’s most prestigious district, Menteng, The Hermitage rises above tree-lined streets and lush parks as a true haven from the bustling city. Originally the Dutch Telecommunications office, built in 1923, the Menteng “Telefoongebouw” now has a new life and meaning as The Hermitage, a luxury hotel blending old world elegance, ultra-modern amenities and the most gracious Indonesian hospitality. As I met Haseena for this distinct privilege of an expertly crafted and paired gourmet meal, I was introduced to the other half of the equation, Chef Guillermo Varela Mata, who created the exquisite

seafood dishes at the L’Avenue Restaurant. Chef Guillermo had prepared the menu in advance and sent it to Haseena, who in turn chose the wines to pair with them. “Wines should not be intimidating,” Haseena says. “I have chose some very good yet affordable wines, which easily pair with the dishes Chef Guillermo prepared with us today.” Some may know the basics about wine, that red wines usually go with heavier meat dishes and wine goes well with seafood or chicken dishes. In the end, I think it really all boils down to personal preference and taste. But of course, it would help if we had tips from an expert like Haseena. We are imparting the tasting notes of the wines and their different characteristics to help you in the future when you pick your wines.

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

Amuse Bouche House-cured Smoked Salmon, apple chutney, mint oil, beetroot powder --Astrolabe Province Marlborough Pinot Gris 2012

Coquilles Saint Jacques Scallops, fennel, leeks, Champagne sauce --Fantini Farnese Pinot Grigio 2013

Pinot Gris is a white wine grape variety and is thought to be a mutant of the Pinot Noir variety. Astrolabe grows their grapes in the Marlborough wine region of New Zealand. Their Pinot Gris has a mid-gold color, with a white flesh stonefruit and fresh pear aroma, with a little bit of vanilla pod and citrus rind. It is pure and focussed to the palate, a delicate structure, with a crisp and dry finish. This wine is perfectly paired with poultry, fish, light game, mushrooms and pasta.

Pinot Gris is called Pinot Grigio by the Italians. Grown in the coastal town of Ortona, in the Province of Chieti in the Italian region of Abruzzo, this is an excellent wine for beginners. It is a straw-yellow color with golden highlights. The taste is complex, with fruit and herbal aromas, hints of oak, vanilla, nutmeg. Also fruity, with peach, grapefruit, lemon-lime and mineral flavours, a medium body with roundness and a pleasant mouthfeel, good balance, finish is long, clean, spicy yet delicate. It is best served with rich first courses, white meat and cheese. Excellent with fish soups, roast fish and shellfish.

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

Langouste Grillée Grilled lobster tail, black risotto, coconut, lemongrass foam --Bernard Magrez Oustric Rosé 2011

L’Oasis Coconut sago, white chocolate, mango gel, azuki bean crumbs --Freixenet Metodo Tradicional Cordon Negro

Bernard Magrez, presents a range of wines from his winemaking partners in the Pays d’Oc. Oustric is a 100% Grenache rosé. Produced exclusively from this quintessentially Mediterranean variety, this wine is wonderfully fruity with a beautiful pale colour. Its elegance and freshness make it an ideal aperitif, or a perfect accompaniment for meats, grilled fish and summer salads.

A blend of the Parellada, Macabeo and EN_RY Y\ T_N]R` S_\Z 0NaNY\[VN @]NV[ dR`a of Barcelona. This sparkling wine is light and very modern. The fruity character allow the natural grape aromas to be retained in the finished wine. It is pale yellow in color, with bright hints of green. Fine, delicate aromas, combining tones of green apple and pear, with light resonances of Mediterranean fruits – peach, melon and pineapple, over a base of citrus, all beautifully balanced by light toasty aromas from bottle maturation. This wine pairs well with a wide range of food from shrimp salad to olive and tomato bruschetta to cheese appetizers and desserts.

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FI N E R T H I N G S

Into The Bloo by JED DOBLE photographs by AKI

0URS 8RcV[ 0Ub[T PURS QR PbV`V[R at W Retreat & Spa Bali’s Starfish Bloo, is stirring up the waters with a new menu at the popular Seminyak eatery. He shares his tails (lobster) and tales with us this month.

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FI N E R T H I N G S

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xcR X[\d[ 8RcV[ S\_ ad\ fRN_` [\d 6 first met him when he had just moved to Bali. I was quickly smitten by his play with flavors, he always makes sure to focus on the produce to enrich his dishes. So on a recent visit to Bali, I sought him out for a chat and some good seafood. 8RcV[ dN` O\_[ V[ :Nb_VaVb` N[Q `]R[a his first few years there, before his family QRPVQRQ a\ `RaaYR V[ .b`a_NYVN 8RcV[ UNQ always wanted to cook even at a very young age and he has always loved food. .SaR_ `PU\\Y 8RcV[ QVQ N U\`]VaNYVaf traineeship in Sydney, then started working at restaurants. A few years later, he landed at job working at Rockpool, Neil Perry’s famous Sydney restaurant and bar. Here, 8RcV[ U\[RQ UV` `XVYY` N[Q T\a N SV_ZR_ T_N`] of flavors. The competition was stiff in the kitchen, so he had to be on top of his game. He later took on a job at another famous Sydney restaurant, Longrain and then later, headed to work at the Westin Hotel before moving to Bali. y6 YVXR a\ TRa Zf UN[Q` QV_af z 8RcV[

says. Saying that of eating crabs, his favorite seafood. “I am a big fan of the most popular of all crab dishes, Singapore chili crab! I like it best with mantou (steamed Chinese buns).� Mud crabs are great fun to cook with a\\ z <OcV\b`Yf 8RcV[ Y\cR` UV` `RNS\\Q .[Q continue to tells me about his best seafood meals. One memorable meal in particular was at Chef David Thompson’s Nahm in Bangkok, which coincidentally, is on top of 2014 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Starters such as smoked fish, peanut and tapioca dumpling. Cured ‘hiramasa’ kingfish salad, Coconut and turmeric curry of blue swimmer crab with calamansi lime come to mind. Another \S 8RcV[x` SNc\_VaR` V` aUR 4\YQR[ 0R[ab_f Seafood restaurant in Sydney which has the best live seafood in Sydney. Lobster meat with wasabi and soy, Steamed abalone with ginger and shallots and 9VcR ]V]R` dVaU E< `NbPR 5VZ Wb`a `NfV[T these dishes make my mouth water. 0URS 8RcV[ `UN_R` dVaU b` aU_RR wonderfully delicious, get your hands dirty dishes this month. Starfish Bloo Chilli Crab,

STARFISH BLOO, W Retreat & Spa Bali, Seminyak | Jalan Petitenget ¡âˆ™ Seminyak, Bali | +62 361 3000 106 www.wretreatbali.com | Facebook: W Retreat & Spa, Bali | Twitter: @WBali | Instagram: @WBaliSeminyak

is of course his rendition of his favorite Singapore dish. He also shares Grilled Giant River Prawns and Lobster in Yellow curry, both lip smacking good dishes, with good spice in them, which I have to admit, are best eaten with piping hot rice. Starfish Bloo also recently launched their new menu which showcases the best \S /NYV ]_\QbPR dVaU 8RcV[x` V[[\cNaVcR SYNc\_ combinations. “The new menu is Southeast Asian inspired. Food that is meant to be fun, with an easy vibe for good times. Our signature dishes like our braised beef cheeks in an open steam buns are still very popular.� Other dishes include: Steamed black cod with black bean sauce, Organic Sichuan chicken and grilled prawn salad, a Thai-inspired Bouillabaisse of red snapper, prawns, squid and baby octopus and Green curry of marbled Australian beef. Literally a mouthful. This makes Starfish Bloo a perfect dining destination in Bali, with the constant crashing of the waves nearby, a great vibe and excellent food by Chef 8RcV[ N[Q UV` aRNZ U\d PN[ f\b T\ d_\[T

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FI N E R T H I N G S

GRILLED GIANT RIVER PRAWNS WITH TOMATO SAMBAL Serves 1 portion

INGREDIENTS: 2pcs 4pcs 2pcs 3pcs 6pcs 3pcs 1tsp 4pcs Sea Salt Fresh Lime

Giant River Prawns Long Red Chillies Small Red Chillies Red Shallots Garlic Cloves Tomatoes Shrimp Paste Candle Nut

STEPS

{ 0ba N[Q PYRN[ ]_Nd[` V[ UNYS { /YVag aUR PUVYYVR` `UNYY\a` TN_YVP a\ZNa\R` shrimp paste, candlenuts and salt in a food processor to make a paste. { 5RNa \VY V[ d\X S_f a\ZNa\ ZVeab_R b[aVY reduces by nearly half and the oil rises to the surface. { :N_V[NaR aUR ]_Nd[` N[Q T_VYYRQ S\_ # % minutes. { .QQ Z\_R a\ZNa\ `NZONY \[ a\] \S aUR prawns. { @R_cR dVaU N dRQTR \S YVZR

LOBSTER IN YELLOW CURRY Serves 1 portion

INGREDIENTS: 1pc 4tbs 6tbs 1tsp 1can !]P`

STEPS

Lobster Vegetable Oil Yellow Curry Paste Curry Powder Coconut Cream 8NSSV_ 9VZR 9RNcR`

{ =\b_ \VY V[ d\X NQQ fRYY\d ]N`aR N[Q coconut cream. { @aV_ aUR ]N`aR b[aVY Va` YVTUaYf O_\d[RQ N[Q the oil has separated from the coconut in the cream. { .QQ aUR Pb__f ]\dQR_ N[Q `aV_ { .QQ NO\ba UNYS Pb] \S dNaR_ a\ aUV[ Va \ba Add the kaffir lime leaves. { =ba V[ aUR PYRN[RQ Y\O`aR_ ]VRPR` `aV_ gently. { @VZZR_ N[Q P\\X S\_ NO\ba % ZV[baR` take great care not to over cook the lobster.

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FI N E R T H I N G S

STARFISH BLOO CHILLI CRAB Serves 1 portion

INGREDIENTS:

1pc Large Mud Crab (900g) 2pcs Brown Onions 8pcs Small Red Chillies 125ml Vegetable Oil 3tsp Shrimp Paste 250ml Tomato Puree 60ml Light Soy 55g White Sugar 1tbsp Tomato Paste 2tsp White Vinegar 1/2tsp Salt 1/4tsp Corn Starch Mixed With Water 1pc Egg, Lightly Beaten Coriander Leaves, To Serve

STEPS

{ 0YRN[ N[Q Pba P_NO` V[a\ ^bN_aR_` { =YNPR aUR \[V\[ N[Q PUVYYV V[ N S\\Q processor and process to a puree. { 5RNa \VY V[ d\X NQQ \[V\[ N[Q PUVYYV ]N`aR { .QQ aUR `UV_Z] ]N`aR N[Q S_f S\_ # % minutes. { .QQ a\ZNa\ ]b_RR `\f `NbPR a\ZNa\ sauce, tomato paste, vinegar, sugar and salt. { .QQ P\_[ SY\b_ N[Q O_V[T a\ O\VY { .QQ aUR P_NO ]VRPR` N[Q P\\X P\cR_RQ over medium heat for 8-10mins. { @aV_ aU_\bTU aUR RTT N[Q a\`` YVTUaYf a\ coat. { 4N_[V`U dVaU P\__VN[QR_

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C U LT U R E

FOODOLOGY:

abundant waters The seas and oceans are abundant with fish and seafood. But recently, overfishing is causing a sharp decline in SV`UR_ZR[x` PNaPUR` 8[\d dUNa f\b `U\bYQ N[Q `U\bYQ[xa eat to save the diversity of seafood in our waters.

135 million lbs.

0 ,00 36 $7

Bluefin tuna (TORO)

One 593-LB. Bluefin in Japan sold for

65 million lbs. 22 million lbs.

Scientist recommended catch (2008)

Legal catch limit

Actual catch

SHARK

32% Up to 73 million sharks each year have their fins cut off while alive and are thrown back to die.

32% of Pelagic sharks are threatened with extinction.

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C U LT U R E

halibut

SALMON

Catch limit 20% of population.

Leaving 80% in the water to produce.

ALASKAN SALM ON Limit based on how many fish return to breed each year, NOT harvest goal for fishermen.

fish caught per boat more than doubled since 1982, a sign of growing popilation.

FARMED SHELLFISH

Mussels clean the water of particles down to a hundred thousandth of an inch, like a commercial water filter.

SARDINE

1 oyster can filter 50 gallons per day.

Bycatch in 1967:

15%

Bycatch today:

1 oyster

50 gallons

1%

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IKAN BAKAR NILA KHAS PADANG BANG THEMMY by RIAN FARISA photographs by RIAN FARISA

I

XN[ /NXN_ ;VYN 8UN` =NQN[T /N[T AURZZf or Ikan Bakar Bang Themmy is a grilled fish shack but in a different way. Yes, we often find grilled fish hawkers mostly around nighttime and basically they serve just a few types of fish, grilled, and then served with sambal kecap or simple sweet soybean sauce and bird-eye chilies. However, Bang Themmy does it differently and even much better. Firstly, he concentrates on only one type of fish and for that he chose ikan nila or tilapia, specifically from the rapid streams of Subang in West Java. The rapid current is believed to develop the big bones inside the fish, making it easy for us to devour it completely, unlike the common carp (ikan mas) that has smaller bones all over its body. Secondly, Bang Themmy has devised a new way to make the fish even tastier and he concocted Padangnese yellow sauce that consists of garlic, shallot, turmeric, galangal, ginger, chilies, coconut milk, and other specific ingredients. He smears the yellow sauce during the grilling process and while Bang Themmy’s grilling technique may appear easy but he does it carefully to maintain the right moisture. Afterwards, he serves the fish with traditional lado mudo (green sambal made from green chilies), making it even more flavorful. It’s a guaranteed squeaky clean plate for everyone who savors this beauty and I will always ask for more of those scrumptiously thick bumbu kuning and I’ll even use the Padangnese phrase for asking for seconds, “Tambo ciek!” (or “One more dish please!”) at times. Additionally, Bang Themmy also serves the grilled chicken as the substitute for the fish. If you’re lucky, he has more surprises that you have to try such as the super spicy gulai itiak lado mudo (duck with green chilies), pucuak ubi tigo jam (steamed cassava leaves with a lot of spices and fish cooked for three hours – if with firewood), and traditional delicacies like ayam pop or dendeng paru. That is, ladies and gentlemen, an unlikely beautiful scene found only in a humble, clean shack run by a really skillful and modest man alongside his lovely wife.

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With his Bukittinggi heritage and grilling forte, Bang Themmy decided to embark on a warung venture a few years ago by serving grilled fish unlike any other and not just that, he invites his guests to sample the traditional Minangnese cuisine like we often find in Padang restaurants!

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OPENING HOURS: Everyday, 12 pm – 10 pm (closed on Sunday) SPEND: IDR 25,000 – IDR 50,000 / person

68.; /.8.? ;69. 85.@ =.1.;4 /.;4 A52::F i 7NYN[ AR_b`N[ 7NXN_aN [\ % UNdXR_` N_RN /N[Qb[T

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SANTIGA SEAFOOD BENHIL by RIAN FARISA

I

t feels like ages, but actually, it hasn’t been that long. In a previous life, I was part of one of those banking enterprises around the Jalan Sudirman. My officemates and I used to have dinner at street food stalls around the office or head north for the shopping malls. One of the options they asked me back then was to have a dinner at Santiga Seafood in Benhil, a portmanteau for Jalan Bendungan Hilir. It was a nay that time for me as I was rushing for a prior engagement somewhere else and the chance never came again until quite recently after all those years. Much to my dismay, my personal tour around the street made me realize that Santiga was no longer there to be found, aside from another hawker of slightly the

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While it proved to be elusive, at least for me, I successfully traced the whereabouts of this legendary seafood hawker after it moved out from its original neighborhood. The result for the hardship was a dining experience worth its weight in gold! same name took over the old place where Santiga used to be. Finally, I discovered that they moved permanently out of the neighborhood two years ago further south to Jalan Fatmawati. It’s a strange move considering they had hardcore fans around the area but I assume that if the food was that good, then people will follow them wherever they go. So there I was on Jalan Fatmawati, in front of a closed ceramic store where Santiga had relocated. They set up a huge tent and were open for Jakarta’s seafood fans all night long. Business was good that night as patrons filled most of the seats even if it was already past 10pm on a weekday. The cooks were busy in front of their hot woks, the large flames bursting underneath, the fish griller in front of the

shack commanded the wafting smokes that surely signaled for everybody to come. Street musicians were playing on the side, accompanying those who were waiting in anticipation of the great food coming their way. Usually, seafood hawkers cook their meals Chinese-style, with basic dishes such as fried rice, fried noodle and stir-fry vegetables present on the menu too. The cooks were ready to serve the rich catch from the sea in various types of cooking, as varied as the seafood available. From gourami to snapper are available to be fried or grilled. But before that, be sure to try the boiled cockles, or known locally as kerang rebus, as the opener served with appetizing pineapple sambal. That night, I enjoyed the prawns stir-fried in oyster sauce, and the crispy calamari. I found it rather inconsistent for some restaurants and side-street hawkers to be able to bread the cuttlefish well and fried it evenly, but Santiga clearly achieved it successfully. While enjoying all these goodness, I spied a bit on other tables only to find the customers are all happy and enjoying their loot as well. The highlight that night was a guy eating so many steamed prawns all by his own and a family of three sharing a really good looking black pepper crab. That view alone made me want to visit the place again! When are you going?

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OPENING HOURS: Everyday, 6 pm – 2 am SPEND: IDR 50,000 – IDR 100,000 / person

SANTIGA SEAFOOD BENHIL | Jalan R.S. Fatmawati no. 42, Jakarta | +62 21 9122 1555, +62 815 1410 4327

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I CO N I C

MANDALA by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

While so many other Chinese restaurants battle their way for hegemony in shopping malls or exclusively around the northern part of the city, Mandala appears content and flourishes around the Jalan Wolter Monginsidi strip in-between other restaurants of so many genres in South Jakarta.

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I CO N I C

C

olorful answers are what you will hear whenever you ask about Mandala. Testimonials like “Yeah, they have a really good sop tahu (tofu soup)” or wonderful descriptions for the rest of Mandala’s dishes will definitely intrigue those have only heard about their reputation. Another noteworthy part of Mandala is that people would also talk about the restaurant’s eclectic décor and the use of practically anything kitschy they would find to decorate every conceivable angle inside the restaurant. That makes Mandala a bit out of ordinary for a Chinese restaurant. I remember something about a Chinese restaurant back in my hometown that gave me the same impression when I first encountered Mandala. You know, an officelike exterior, with huge tinted glass doors and old style square-shaped door knobs aUNa SRRY YVXR f\bx_R R[aR_V[T aUR 5\[T 8\[T soap opera restaurant scenes - something that I remember watching regularly when I was little. How Mandala became successful like this was actually a long journey for the late owner, Mr. Samuel Darius, and it started during his teenage years in the 50s. Mr. Samuel started the business alongside his brother at Jalan Sabang area, which is now famed as the hawkers center in Jakarta, selling noodles from his pushcart. Aside from the fried noodles, they are also known for their delicious chicken porridge and nasi tim (Chinese-style steamed chicken rice), even until this very day! In 1978, Mr. Samuel opened Mandala, as

what we know today, and actively took care of it every day, until his last years only from home. It was said that the staff usually brought several dishes for him to sample each day as a standard measurement. As of this day, Mandala successfully maintains around 200 dishes available every day from early morning until late night service. People will come and go in the morning for a bowl of hot porridge or nasi tim, but for lunch and dinner, you might want to arrive a tad earlier because it gets full so quickly. Alternatively though, it seems that some customers usually opt for take away or delivery instead. Even one of their loyal customers from as far as Condet in the outskirts of Jakarta chooses to have a single portion of nasi tim delivered there! During our visit and in accordance to our seafood theme for this issue, Mandala presented us with some of the best from their frutti di mare collections – such as their savory seafood fried rice and ifumie (crispy noodles showered with seafood and vegetables). On another occasion I particularly enjoyed their unparalleled tofu soup that has a powerful flavor from salted cuttlefish and sea cucumber that blend well with the broth, as well as the use of silk squash to give it a more Chinese-style flavor. Those dishes are simply a fraction from other abundant options that you can explore every day from Mandala and a fruit of labor from the late owner for so many decades. Even though a year has passed, Mr. Samuel’s legacy keeps going strong and Mandala will always be the dear of so many of its fans in Jakarta and far beyond.

MANDALA | Jalan Wolter Monginsidi no. 80, Jakarta | +62 21 739 8537 Opens Wed-Mon (closes on Tue) from 8 am – 10 pm.

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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

ADE ANDRINI by RIAN FARISA photograph by DENNIE BENEDICT

Showbiz personality and multi-talented lady, Ade Andrini, shares with us her guilty pleasures, which she enjoys in-between her busy days. She cannot get enough of this special dish. And that’s the rice, ladies and gentlemen!

L

iving a really busy showbiz life doesn’t mean that Ade Andrini can easily skip meals. One sunny Jakarta afternoon, we met at a leafy restaurant in the southern part of town that she currently manages. When we arrive, we catch her enjoying her chicken and rice dish for lunch. After a brief introduction, quickly she said to me, “Make no mistake, I love rice very much and the thought of not having it even for a single day makes me faint. But I have to keep up my figure, since it is part of my career.” That’s why she had to share some of the rice with her friend who shared the same table with us. During light days, she would finish a whole bowl of rice at a favorite local restaurant with her bestie Tracy Trinita, a well-known model and actress. Despite her soft spot for rice, she appears trim and slim. Even her friend

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swore that he never sees her gaining weight knowing full well that she is a real foodie. “Lately, I have been rather busy being a presenter for so many events, but during free days, I’d go around with my friends to eat!”, she said admitting also that she could eat five times a day whenever she visits Makassar, a famous destinations for foodies. Andrini, as everyone calls her, started her career as a TV presenter, she later on starred in several soap operas and even does some modeling. “I remember that my first role as a TV presenter paired me with Anjasmara. From there, my confidence grew and my efforts always lead me to the right place,” said Andrini who at one phase of her career even tried out being a singer. Her current venture now stars her as a presenter of a fashion TV show on Indonesia’s latest English language TV channel. Through her journeys to so many

countries, Andrini also discovers that a career in F&B is something that she excels as well and truth be told, restaurants under her guidance thrive and can cope well against the competition, especially for the one she’s running now. I decided to dig a bit deeper to what she really likes about food and found out that during every journey she takes abroad, she would go to Japanese or Chinese restaurants because of the rice factor. “If possible, I’d ask for a plate of rice to go along with any Western dish I’m encountering, even for steaks!” she said honestly. “Even so, I’m cutting some slack for this one particular restaurant on the mountaintop of a ski resort in Austria. I’d go there for the ribs whereas people are coming for the skiing!” she told us and our abrupt laughing brought cheer to the lunch we had that day.

Twitter: @adeandrini

CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E

CHEF SANDRA DJOHAN

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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E

CHEF SANDRA DJOHAN by RIAN FARISA photograph by DENNIE BENEDICT

Meet bubbly and bouncy chef, Sandra Djohan, as she takes us for a stroll down memory lane with her immense love for food, travel, and photography.

B

ehind the façade of Epilogue - a homey French restaurant with its joglo façade, lies a story of immense life experience from its chef and owner, Sandra Djohan. Despite the Javanese influence seen from the architecture and its classic tiles often found in colonial houses in the restaurant, you will also see traces of French mementos from trinkets and personal photos taken personally by the owner. “Photography is my other hobby aside from traveling and cooking, and these used to be what I cling dearly during my rebellious adolescent years abroad”, confessed Sandra. During her initial years in the USA of being ‘disciplined’ in an academy, she developed her experience working in the school’s kitchen and also in her pastimes for traveling around America as much as possible. Her thirst for adventure continued to strengthen as she reached her college years in London. “There was one time when I skipped the whole semester just to assist my lecturer for his photography project in South Africa. Without hesitation, I accepted the job right away!” said Sandra. She admits that wherever she goes, not only that she savors her day in taking photographs or merely enjoys the travel, but she mingles with the locals as well to learn how they cook their food. How could she travel a lot back then as a college student? Sandra admits that she used to cook and sell Mexican lunchboxes to her friends while also doing the laundry and dishwashing as well for extra cash. “I topped up my allowances with these incomes so that I could travel around Europe. During which, I enjoyed my stay with the locals weekly in different places and learn a lot about them”, said the chef who excels in at least five languages. Sandra’s many months in South Africa finally took its toll as her father Robby Djohan, the brilliant CEO of prominent companies in Indonesia, suddenly decided to visit Europe and also to attend her graduation ceremony in England. “You can’t imagine what it was like when my father found out that I was skipped uni!” shouted Sandra still horrified imagining how furious her father was back then. Back home, she survived her years working and traveling locally until she would be given another opportunity to go abroad by her parents to take care of her

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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E

younger sibling who was about to enter college in Australia. There, Sandra became more and more attached to cooking and finally after so many years of convincing her father, she displayed her real talent with it - still studying wherever she can, opened up restaurants, and just recently, published UR_ \d[ P\\X O\\X PNYYRQ y3_\Z :f 8VaPUR[ To Yours”. “The book is basically about everyday recipes that you can follow easily”, announced Sandra during her book launching event on a separate occasion. Currently she’s also preparing for another book based on her inspiration drawn from the travels. “One of the most exciting things I still do on my weekends is the Sunday Drunk!”

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says Sandra explaining this particular inspiration she got when back in France. During Sunday Drunk, usually she teams up with other 20 or 30 chefs and they cook all day at a friend’s house or anybody who got a good kitchen. “We take turns cooking, eating, and sharing the secrets about our recipes. Some of them even came from Michelin-starred restaurants and they don’t mind sharing the techniques with everyone!” admitted Sandra. Here, she tried also to reenact that moment almost every Sunday with her closest friends and family members. “One rule of thumb is that you cannot take a shower to start your day and just go straight to the kitchen to cook and eat

together!” she said merrily laughing. For her, sharing the ideas and recipes on this kind of occasion will educate and inspire everyone to cook better. When asked about her future plans, she said, “I used to live by the moment when I was younger, but now I’d love to study more to become a better chef and one day I will open up my own cooking school and have my skillful chef friends as the tutors there!” For that she just acquired herself a good place to start on an undisclosed area in Jakarta. Upon her return next year from her study which she will start around November this year, we might see great things coming up from our effervescent chef, Sandra Djohan.

A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E

EPILOGUE | Jalan Cipete Raya no. 18-19, Jakarta | +62 21 7590 2451 www.epiloguefrenchrestaurant.com

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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G

THE ISLAND GETAWAY by MAYA ALDY

Is there anything better than eating fresh and delicious seafood right at the source, while lounging by a pristine beaches? Our good friend, chef Maya Aldy shares how exciting her travels to the island of Belitung were recently, and from what she writes, it seems like it is heaven on earth.

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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G

N

ow that the rainy days are almost over and that the Jakarta seems even more bustling with life during warm weather, I found time to grab an opportunity for a short trip with friends to a beautiful island just a stone’s throw away from Jakarta. As you have all probably noticed before, the beach is an integral part of my life, but don’t you guys also love hanging around the beach -- swimming, eating, and waiting for the sunset. We all do right? So, there I was, making my way down to Belitung, in less than an hour’s journey, only to find that it’s a whole peaceful world compared with Jakarta. Upon arriving, of course, food and coffee were among the particulars that I really want to explore aside from spending time by the beach. For first timers, I’d

recommend Timpo Duluk as a one-stop restaurant for many Belitung delicacies like sop gangan (spicy fish soup), brego (rolled bread served with curry), and Belitungstyle of nasi lemak. In Belitung, there are plenty of South Asian, Melayu, and Chinese influences, especially with the kopitiamstyle coffee shop that I visited for my breakfast on the second day. Even though we decided not to go as far as Manggar in the east - nicknamed The City of One-Thousand Coffee Shops, we were actually lucky because our driver knew his way around and took us to a humble P\SSRR `U\] PNYYRQ 8\]V .XRU V[`VQR aUV` narrow alley, which by the way, happened to be a renowned coffee shop in Tanjung Pandan. Being a coffee aficionado myself, the V[TR[bVaf \S 8\ .XRUx` aRPU[V^bR V[ O_RdV[T

coffee blew my mind away. Firstly, he put an egg yolk and condensed milk inside a glass, and then he tempered the egg by pouring three batches of coffee with different intensities so that the egg won’t get scrambled. I swear the coffee was so good and it even tasted like a srikaya (sugarapple fruit)! Heading out to the north, the R[PUN[aV[T AN[Wb[T 8RYNfN[T ORNPU dVaU Va` surrounding islands awaited us. But before heading out for island hopping, it’s best to leave a message to the restaurant’s proprietress by the beach to welcome you back with an exquisite half-smoked halfgrilled ikan ilak (blue-spot mullet). Imagine having it with perfectly fried calamari, sop gangan, and sayur genjer (stir-fry velvetleaf), sambal terasi, and jeruk kunci juice (Belitung orange juice). The fish was

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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G

so good so that I decided to make my own interpretation for my restaurant! There are so many things that I’d love to share with you about the food but you really have to experience it for yourself. However before we part, be sure to also enjoy suto Belitung (Belitung-style laksa) and some ketam isi (crab cakes) for takeaway while you’re there. I had my share brought to the plane as my snacks and enjoyed it so much. Last but not least, apart from visiting the hippest beaches in Belitung like Tanjung 8RYNfN[T N[Q AN[Wb[T AV[TTV aUR Y\PNY ORNPU at the town of Tanjung Pandan is also good place to view the sunset and mingle with the locals. It was a really a relaxing moment enjoying the remainder of the day by the beach at a warung there with a bowl of empek-empek Belitung (fish cakes fried with tofu skin served with a soup) and a glass of ice cold coconut water. Oh dear, look what I did! I just can’t stop talking about the food. I hope you enjoyed my reports about this lovely island filled with great beaches, great food, and some of the nicest people I have ever found during all my travels. I’ll be sure to catch you guys up again next time with more exciting stories or recipes. Until next time! Ciao,

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M AYA ’ S M U S I N G

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SEA BASS FROM THE SKY by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

Young and spirited Nalendra Anindita has come full circle. After his tenure in Dubai for several years he is back in his native Bandung and is now the creative power behind the inspired dishes at The Trans Hotel. During our visit there, the chef shared an elegant recipe involving delicious sea bass cooked with a stunning view behind him!

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A52 A?.;@ 9BEB?F 5<A29 i 7NYN[ 7R[QR_NY 4Na\a @bO_\a\ /N[Qb[T i # %$ ! %%%% www.thetranshotel.com | Twitter: @TRANSluxuryHTL

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orking in hospitality is something that runs in the family of Chef Nalendra Anindita. Initially, he wanted was to become a doctor, but fate spoke differently and he ultimately decided to follow the footsteps of his father and enrolled at a cookery course at one of Indonesia’s most prominent tourism schools in Bandung. After he graduated, Nalendra started his career modestly at local restaurants and slowly moved to hotels in Jakarta. After two years of experience locally, he finally seized a chance to further his career by working in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Affectionately called Chef Nal by his coworkers at The Trans Hotel, started a

fresh page by working at restaurants at the famed Burj al Arab and Jumeirah Emirates Tower Hotel until he became the Chef de Partie at the Roberto Cavalli Club. “Before I had the chance to work in a five star hotel in the middle of Dubai’s famous F1 circuit and afterwards at Roberto Cavalli’s, I had the experience of hosting VIPs like the owner himself, prominent sheikhs and even US President Bill Clinton,” said Chef Nal. Being a family man, Chef Nal decided to return home after his venture at the Roberto Cavalli. “I went back home to meet my newly born baby and in turn, I started a fascinating career at this hotel,” said Chef Nal about his initial post as Sous Chef with The Trans Hotel.

Just within a span of two years, he has been entrusted with bigger responsibilities as chef de cuisine for The 18th Restaurant & Lounge and now as the Executive Sous Chef of the hotel. “To be able to conceptualize and nurture The 18th since the beginning was such a joyous experience, especially watching it grow until now,” Chef Nal confesses. Chef Nal took us to up to The 18th, the highest restaurant in Bandung, and cooked for us a Japanese-influenced sea bass recipe with a modernist touch. Even with its sophisticated look, the recipe is actually a fairly easy one for you all to try at home. So buckle up and enjoy the ride under Chef Nal’s simple guidance.

TRIED AND TESTED

MARINATED SEA BASS WITH MANGO CAVIAR AND MISO FOAM Serves 1

INGREDIENTS: Sea Bass Marinade 160gr 100gr 500ml 20gr 50gr

Sea bass Miso paste Dashi stock Konbu Katsuobushi

Coffee spaghetti 250ml 2gr

Espresso Alginate

Miso foam 250ml

Miso stock Lecithin

Squid ink veloute 100ml 100ml 50gr

Squid ink Fish stock Roux

Condiments 20gr 5gr 5gr 5gr 5gr

Carrot Snow peas Green pea puree Frisee lettuce Red pepper marmalade

STEPS

{ 3VYYRa aUR dU\YR SV`U N[Q ]\_aV\[ Va S\_ 160gr. { =_R]N_R aUR ZN_V[NQR Of ZVeV[T NYY aUR ingredients and bring it to a boil then simmer. { @Ra N`VQR aUR ZVeab_R N[Q YRa Va P\\Y down. Once the temperature comes back to room temperature, put in the fish to marinade and leave it for a day. { A\ ZNXR aUR `]NTURaaV ZVe NYY \S aUR ingredients up, strain it all, and put it in the refrigerator overnight. { .SaR_dN_Q` ]ba aUR YV^bVQ V[a\ N `f_V[TR and press it through a small and elastic straw. Let it rest for about two minutes and then strain it up and rinse by putting the spaghetti in mineral water. { ?RZ\cR aUR SVYYRa S_\Z aUR ZN_V[NQR N[Q put it into the oven for about 13 minutes on 180oC. { DUVYR dNVaV[T S\_ aUR SV`U OYR[Q aUR mixture of miso foam in a bowl by using a hand blender until it is foamy. { 0\\X aUR veloute by using a fish stock as the base and infused with squid ink then thicken it with roux (if needed). { =YNaR aUR SV`U N[Q TN_[V`U Va dVaU fRYY\d frisee lettuce, red pepper marmalade, & miso sauce.

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TRIED AND TESTED

Do Not Try This At Home by RIAN FARISA

FISH & CHIPS WITH TARTAR SAUCE Serves 4 portions

INGREDIENTS: Fish & Chips 8 ounces 4 pcs 2 cups 1 tsp 1 tsp 3/4 tsp 1 pc 1 can Tartar Sauce 1 cup 1/2 pc 1/2 cup 2 tbsp 2 tsp to taste

Fillets of fish of your choice (dory, snapper, cod, or haddock) Potatoes, big ones All-purpose flour Salt, a bit more is okay Baking powder Pepper (preferably black pepper) Egg, lightly beaten Soda water (or ice cold water) Mayonnaise Lemon, juiced Capers, chopped Parsley, finely chopped Shallots, chopped (optional) Salt and pepper

STEPS

{ :Ve aUR ONXV[T ]\dQR_ SY\b_ RTT `NYa N[Q ]R]]R_ V[ \[R YN_TR mixing bowl. { =\b_ aUR `\QN dNaR_ V[a\ aUR O\dY N[Q dUV`X { 1_RQTR aUR SV`U V[ SY\b_ N[Q QV] Va a\ aUR ONaaR_ { 3_f aUR SV`U ]_RSR_NOYf V[ QRR] S_fR_ b[aVY O_\d[ N_\b[Q " minutes). { .a aUR `NZR aVZR f\b PN[ NY`\ S_f aUR ]\aNa\R` `\ aUNa aURf PN[ be served altogether. { 3\_ aUR aN_aN_ `NbPR `VZ]Yf P\ZOV[R NYY V[ N ZVeV[T O\dY N[Q YRa Va chill before serving.

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STUFF OF LEGENDS

YONO PURNOMO – The Frontier Indonesian Chef by RIAN FARISA photographs by YONO PURNOMO’S COLLECTION

For all my life, I have never heard of an Indonesian chef who successfully opened his own restaurant abroad for several decades now and flourishes still! That chef is none other than Yono Purnomo and his fine-dining restaurant in Albany, New York engraved with his own first name, Yono’s.

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STUFF OF LEGENDS

Photo by Carolyn Purnomo

Photos by Doug Liebig

A

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lthough probably only a handful of us Indonesian have ever been to his restaurant, his own reputation is unarguably the thing that precedes him for so many years. Chef Yono occasionally travels back to Indonesia to contribute his vast experience for seminars or culinary events, but in truth, he actually already gave so much to promote Indonesian cuisine from as far as the 1970s abroad. The young and spirited Yono Purnomo, having graduated from tourism school in Bandung in 1971, embarked on a career journey with the Dutch’s famous cruise ship, SS Rotterdam. After several years of working there, seven trips around the globe, and meeting up with luminaries traveling on board like Jerry Lewis, Omar Sharif and Dizzy Gillespie, a fateful romantic meeting with his future wife Donna aboard the ship brought him back ashore. After some time working with the country’s high profile restaurants, he finally found the real opportunity to start his own venture in Albany, New York. Yono’s, his flagship restaurant that he runs with his wife and family features a majestic blend of contemporary Western cuisine with Indonesian influence in the menu. For that, the restaurant has been garnering critical acclaim, accolades, and even the chef himself appears on television shows and participates in preparing dinners on important occasions, such as for James Beard Foundation and many fundraising events. Aside from his many achievements, the chef strives to always introduce his Indonesian heritage through cooking demonstrations, classes, lectures, and also through the community and fellow chefs.

The chef is described as someone who would share his knowledge without any hesitation and William Wongso himself said that he’d take some of his time to visit Chef Yono’s restaurant whenever he’s in the States and that the two of them would converse about how to promote Indonesian cuisine for the world. Among the refined dishes at Yono’s, the chef features the heart and soul of his own country from lumpia (spring roll), bakmi goreng (fried noodles), nasi goreng (fried rice), gado-gado (mixed vegetables with peanut sauce), and even kolak pisang (banana in palm sugar and coconut milk soup). These dishes alone would make anybody staying in the US for so long healed from their homesickness and Chef Yono Purnomo is to be credited for bringing the Indonesian dishes up to the gourmet level. For Chef Yono and his wife, it appears that nothing would make them happier than seeing Dominick, their eldest son, becomes so connected with his parents’ way of running the business and even started his own brasserie on the same establishment with his father’s restaurant. The brasserie that he runs, dp An American Brasserie, features dishes for lunch, dinner, and late night menus fit for sharing, has an American touch to it with its burgers, and provides the staples of typical French brasserie also. It seems there’s no stopping for Chef Yono Purnomo and his family to influence the community with their hard work and talent. In the chef’s case however, his contribution to promote Indonesian cuisine continues still and energetic as ever, as described heartwarmingly from his wide and honest smile.

YONO’S | 25 Chapel Street, Albany, New York, USA | +1 518 436 7747 www.yonos.com

STUFF OF LEGENDS Photo by Doug Liebig

Photo by Randall Parry

Photo by Randall Parry

dp AN AMERICAN BRASSERIE | 25 Chapel Street, Albany, New York, USA | +1 518 436 3737 www.dpbrasserie.com

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PA N T R Y 1 0 1

PEARLY SHELLS

“He was a bold man that first ate an oyster” – Jonathan Swift

by RIAN FARISA

Blood Cockle (Kerang darah)

Jackknife Clam (Kerang Bambu)

Asian/Philippine Green Mussel (Kerang Hijau)

Blood cockles are quite known as the staple of many seafood stalls in Indonesia. The blood cockle is small, with sizes ranging between 2-5cm, and possesses a unique red haemoglobin liquid that resembles ‘blood’ in the body. Finding these cockles may not seem easy because they burrow down into sand and mud, but once found, they are abundant in numbers. With its delicate yet sweet taste, this type of cockle is usually served in a straightforward way, commonly raw, roasted or steamed. However in Indonesia, it is commonly boiled and served with a fruity-tasting sambal. Moreover, due to Chinese cuisine influence, these cockles are commonly stir-fried with garlic or with oyster sauce. I n the West, blood cockles are used in salads, soups, chowders, pasta, and in Southern-style seafood gumbo.

Also known in Asia as the bamboo clam for its distinct shell resembling a bamboo, hence popularly known as kerang bambu in Indonesia. These tube-like clams with a sweet taste and firm texture have only recently made it to Western restaurants in the United States, unlike their Asian counterparts which have been serving them for many years. Like the cockles, these clams burrow deep and move fast, thus making them hard to catch. They are quite popular in Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Korean cooking. Moreover, they are highly prized in Italy and many tapas bars in Spain.

The green mussel may have its notorious side in some cases, but it still is edible and people can never get enough of these green beauties. As they are abundant in number and particularly cheap, oftentimes you will see street hawkers selling steamed green mussels in residential neighborhoods in Indonesia. Like oysters with its juice, the sea water inside the mussel shell is rich in umami and usually contributes additional taste and aroma to the dish. While it is commonly just steamed in Asian countries, the French often add garlic, shallots, and white wine to it. Baked mussels is also a popular dish to be found in Western and Italian restaurants.

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PA N T R Y 1 0 1

Although Indonesia is an archipelago and a maritime country, many Indonesians do not really pay attention to the distinct characteristics of the shellfish that they eat every day, they rather generalize everything as kerang only. In truth, these lovely bivalve creatures are divided into many types from cockles, clams, scallops, oysters, and mussels. Let’s get to know these tasty bounty from the sea.

Scallops (Kerang Simping)

Oysters (Tiram)

Abalone (Abalon/Kerang Mata Tujuh/Siput Balik Batu)

Known as escalope in French, scallops are highly prized although they are found in all the world’s oceans. Making it even more exotic, wild fisheries on specific oceans employ divers to directly harvest the scallops from the ocean bed as it is considered to be more environmental friendly. Even so, both fresh and frozen scallops are available all year round. Despite the fact that scallops may be more popular in Western cuisines and Japanese, Indonesia has a growing interest with this particular edible mollusk. It is probably because scallops doesn’t feel too seafood-ish like the rest of the shellfish thanks to its appearance, fleshy texture, sweet flavor, and its versatility to be cooked in many ways. Popular scallop dishes in the West require serve them seared or grilled. In the East, the scallops are often made into sushi or sashimi – known as hotategai in Japan, and dried or steamed in China and Taiwan.

There’s nothing sexier than oysters, right? Not only are they delicious and highly flexible when it comes to cooking, several members of the oyster family are inedible species that produce pearls as well! Raw oysters have complex flavors in accord with the characteristics of the water that nurtures them as they may become sweet, earthy, salty, and sometimes melon-y. Other methods of cooking them involve smoking, baking, frying, roasting, stewing, steaming, and you name it – so many! Although it is still less popular in Indonesia, oysters are more popular in many tapas bars, Mediterranean seafood shacks, and haute restaurants. They are often served freshly shucked, still possessing the sea water they were harvested from. The simplest serving usually allows only a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of pepper or salt, to savor it’s juice. Or in a more elaborate way but still according to the purists way, with shallot vinegar or cocktail sauce aside from the usual lemon juice.

Spared from the rest of bivalve family we featured in this article, the abalone is actually classified as one of the edible gastropods among others like the conches or whelks. Highly exquisite and considered as delicacy in certain parts of the world, the dried abalone is even prized higher than even shark’s fin or sea cucumber. In Chinese cuisine, abalone is considered as a luxury item and even reserved only special occasions, while Japanese cuisine utilizes live, raw abalone for sushi. Apart from these, abalone is made into Korean-style stew, braised, grilled, and fermented with salt. However, it is relatively unheard of in Indonesia except when found in expensive restaurants. Even so, overfishing has been the real issue that causes the threat of the extinction of abalone despite fishing permits are issued specifically for this species in certain countries.

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W H AT C H E F E AT S

SLAMET “UKI” BASUKI by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

I consider Umaku as the one and only local sushi haunt that I really like and my friends even fancy their omakase for its reasonable price. However, I will keep the restaurant story for some other time and instead, let us focus on its chef and co-owner, Slamet “Uki” Basuki.

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C

hef Uki is an accomplished sushi chef and a restaurateur, but that not was not how it all started for him. Aside from his home cooking background during his school days, he originally wanted to work out on the sea. “I used to think that studying seamanship would land you a really good paying job, but on the contrary, it wasn’t at all for me for some reason. However, to make ends meet during my student years, I worked as an apprentice at a sushi restaurant,” he says. That was probably the time when he realized that running a sushi restaurant could be a promising business he thought in the back of his mind, since you could only find a handful of sushi joints then. What’s favorable for him was that he can learn about the business directly under the tutelage of a Japanese sushi chef there. “I was simply inspired by his work and I always wanted to learn about everything that he does. I jotted down every recipe and practiced a lot. Not long after, he gave me more responsibility”, Chef Uki reminisced. During the period, Chef Uki encountered a loyal customer in the late Gatot Purwoko who was fond of his work. Chef Uki shared with us their conversation, “He said that we should work together after he retires sometime. Several years later he called and told me that the deal was on!” From there, they started Umaku together and Chef Uki went to the length of learning more on how to appreciate sushi in its authentic way and trained his palate by going to Japan, guided by his former mentors. Despite the exquisite ingredients he often works with on a daily basis, he confessed that eventually, what he really fancies most are his wife’s cooking. “I can never get enough of my wife’s tempe. She can fry it straight, or dices it into orek tempe, or anything, me and my family will never get tired of it!” said the chef. There we were then, while exchanging our thoughts about sushi and sashimi altogether on the same dining table, we savored the best from his wife’s home dishes. Everything was impeccably delicious, starting from the tempe, salted fish, lalapan, sayur asem, and a really good yet spicy sambal. “You can’t beat this with something else for us Indonesians, right?” challenged the chef.

Twitter: @chef_ uki.

TRIED AND TESTED

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