VENTURE BY TRAVELERS FOR TRAVELERS
CULTURE SHOCK
MELBOURNE | UBUD | KANSAI SEPTEMBER 2014 Vol. 5 | No. 4 IDR 55.000 | S$8.00
FOUNDER’S NOTE
Founder
Publisher
Managing Editor
HOW DO YOU LIKE ME NOW? Welcome to the New Venture Travel Magazine! Milestones are moments we celebrate. It is an event that we share with our family and friends. This is one of those moments. Last May, I had an epiphany. I picked up the latest Venture Magazine and realized that we are quickly reaching our 4th year as a publication. I took a deep breath and sighed like a proud father, we have had many ups and downs, encountered the kindness of strangers, learned lessons from different teachers and criticism and praises from our growing readership. It came to me that most stages in life are in increments of 4 to 6 years, i.e. elementary, high school and college. It was at that moment that I realized… it was time for a change. One of the major highlights that I am proud of is the “Venture Focus,” which features a particular destination with more in-depth articles. A destination is more than a pin on the map or buildings and pavements, but the culture, the history, the flavors and most of all, the people make a city what it is. This month we focus on Ubud, Kansai and Melbourne, three destinations with vibrant cultures, breathtaking landscapes and incredible cuisines. Read about the uniqueness of Ubud’s Green School and also about the growing Yoga community in this town made famous by Elizabeth Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love.” Travel with us to the prefecture of Kansai as Jed Doble takes you up close and personal to the new Harry Potter ride in Universal Studios as well as to the Kyoto’s magnificent temples and through the unique experience of Communal Baths. Not to be outdone, travel with us through the eye-popping landscapes of Victoria. From Cycling around Melbourne’s streets and parks with Bowie Holiday or to Travel the Great Ocean Road with Kristie Hayden and all the way to seeing the march of the fairy penguins in Phillip Islands. Lastly, I want to say a heartfelt “Thank You” to you, our readers. The past four years was a heck of a ride, but the journey is not over and we look forward in passing more milestones with you, Venture after all is a magazine that is not only for travelers but also by travelers.
Art Director
Photographer
Contributors
Richmond Blando
Jed V. Doble
Kyle Gregorio
Juke Bachtiar
Dennie Benedict
Bowie Holiday Kristie Hayden Deri Jindhar Rachel Love Cynthia Rosenfeld Megan Snedden
Administration
Distribution
Boedy Astuti
Mukti Pelupessy
Happy Travels, Richmond Blando
VENTURE BY TRAVELERS FOR TRAVELERS
CULTURE
PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI Jl. Gunawarman no. 16 • Kebayoran Baru South Jakarta • Indonesia Tel: +62 21 2905 3959
SHOCK
MELBOURNE | UBUD | KANSAI SEPTEMBER 2014 Vol. 5 | No. 4 IDR 55.000 | S$8.00
PHOTOGRAPH PERATI KOMSON/Shutterstock LOCATION DOTONBORI, OSAKA, JAPAN
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
MELBOURNE UBUD
KANSAI
From glorious food, to the world’s best street art, unique rooftop bars and cafes and incredible road trips will more than likely cement their reputation as the most livable city in the world.
Ubud is flocked by tourists for its arts & crafts, restaurants and sceneries. Ubud was recently voted as the most fascinating city of Asia for a variety of reasons.
Modernity and ancient, fast and slow, these contrasts highlight the beauty and magnificence of the Kansai region. Join us as we give you a quick visit.
16 Street Art
36 A World of Green
60 Kyoto’s Splendid Shrines
18 On The Fly
40 From POD to Bar
62 Communal Baths
22 A Walk On The Wild Side
42 Balinese Food
26 Victoria’s Food Culture
44 Ubud Writer Festival
30 On The Wheels
46 Balinese Art
33 Concierge
50 Yoga Love 54 Taking The Plunge 56 Concierge
78
GEAR GUIDE
Your must haves when traveling.
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80
STAYCATION
Vacation need not be so far from home.
& Temples
64 Fill My Tummy 68 The Wizarding World Of Harry Potter
70 Shopper’s Paradise 74 A Place To Rest Your Head 76 Concierge
84
WILD ABOUT TRAVEL
Your breathtaking travel photos.
CONTRIBUTORS Growing up to be one of many 3rd Culture Kids around, Deri Jindhar is now based in Jakarta settling into the uncertainties that he’s been used to with half of his life. Has a love hate relationship with the question “Where are you from?” because everywhere he travels, may just be called his home, yet gets nervous whenever a form needs him to enter a “permanent address.”
OUR
For one year Bowie Holiday traveled around Indonesia visiting remote locations in Sumatra, Java, Bali, Borneo, Sulawesi, West Nusa Tenggara, East Nusa Tenggara, Maluku, and Papua. Moved by his travels, Bowie started the www. traveljunkieindonesia.com travel blog with the goal of inspiring more people to care about the planet.
VENTURERS
Kristie Hayden is a writer,
traveler and mum who enjoys photography, fashion, and nosing about street-markets. Be it intrepid or five-star holidays, she believes that an inspiring travel story develops as much from conversations with locals as it does from sightseeing. Kristie lives on Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula, has an Associate Diploma in Travel & Tourism / Business and is a graduate of the Australian Writers’ Centre.
Rachel Love’s childhood
dream was to live on a tropical island and become a travel writer, but she spent 19 years working for a corporate company in the UK before making the momentous decision, in 1998, to move to Bali and change her life. She is now living her dream: exploring some of the remotest islands of the Indonesian archipelago, while writing for magazines and guidebooks.
Cynthia Rosenfeld began her travel-writing career in New York City on September 7, 2001. These days, from bases on three continents, the Yale educated, Ashtanga practicing American writer covers the most memorable and decadent destinations around the world for publications including The New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler and How To Spend It.
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Travel journalist and photographer, Megan Snedden helps people find their freedom and uncover their passion for adventure by sharing inspirational stories from around the world. Her work regularly appears in such publications as BBC, National Geographic Traveler, and the Huffington Post. She also teaches travel photography workshops in New York City.
TRAVEL TALES
FLYING
“HIGH” A
seasoned traveler knows that there are a few things that are essential to have: a carry-on bag that fits in the overhead bin, comfortable shoes, passport (if you travel abroad) but more than anything else, a sense of humor is probably one of the most important of all. Most of us have experienced forgotten items at the gate, lost luggage, bad weather, unbearable seatmates, tasteless or worse, unpalatable food, bizarre local customs and the immigration guard who looks at you rather suspiciously. The saying, “Comedy is equals tragedy plus time,” rings true, because at the end of the day as you sit at the dinner table with friends and you retell these stories eliciting hearty laughter. I asked my friends from the travel industry and then some to recall some of their best stories and here are a few:
FROM A TICKET COUNTER AT THE SINGAPORE AIRPORT
Someone once asked for an aisle seat so that her hair wouldn’t get messed up by being near the window.
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FROM A TRAVEL AGENT FROM ORLANDO
Customer: Hello, I want to book a fight to Capetown. I started to explain the length of the flight and the passport information when she interrupted me. Customer: I’m not trying to make you look stupid, but Capetown is in Massachusetts. Me: Capecod is in Massachusetts, Capetown is in Africa.” Customer: ... click. Me: “Hello, *** Travel. How may I help you?” Caller: “Hello I have a question.” Me: “Sure, go ahead.” Caller: “Do you offer cruise packages?” Me: “Yes sir, we do.” Caller: “Would that be on a ship?” Me: “…”
FROM PASSENGERS
Occasionally, airline attendants make an effort to make the “in-flight safety lecture,” and their other announcements, a bit more entertaining. Here are some real examples that have been heard or reported:
“Your seat cushions can be used for flotation, and in the event of an emergency water landing, please take them with our compliments.” “Smoking in the lavatories is prohibited. Any person caught smoking in the lavatories will be asked to leave the plane immediately.” Pilot - after landing: “Thank you for flying Delta Business Express. We hope you enjoyed giving us the business as much as we enjoyed taking you for a ride.” “Should the cabin lose pressure, oxygen masks will drop from the overhead area. Please place the bag over your own mouth and nose before assisting children or adults acting like children.” And from the pilot during his welcome message: “We are pleased to have some of the best flight attendants in the industry... Unfortunately, none of them are on this flight...! Heard on Southwest Airlines just after a very hard landing in Salt Lake City: The flight attendant came on the intercom and said, “That was quite a bump and I know what ya’ll are thinking. I’m here to tell you it wasn’t the airline’s fault, it wasn’t the pilot’s fault, it wasn’t the flight attendants’ fault...it was the asphalt!” From a Southwest Airlines employee.... “In the event of a sudden loss of cabin pressure, oxygen masks will drop from the ceiling. Stop screaming, grab the mask, and pull it over your face. If you have a small child traveling with you, secure your mask before assisting with theirs. If you are traveling with two small children, decide now which one you love more.”
THERE HAS NEVER BEEN ONE QUITE LIKE THIS This is a claim that we promise to deliver. Venture and The Foodie are purveyors of tongue-in-cheek articles, from the quirky to the other of points of view that come from the major players and leaders in the food and travel industry.
VENTURE
Sept 2014
MELBOURNE Introduction From glorious food, to the world’s best street art, unique rooftop bars and cafés and incredible road trips will more than likely cement their reputation as the most livable city in the world.
01 Street Art It is a gallery of artistic expression and it contributes to a vibrant urban environment and can change continually on a day to day to basis.
02 On The Fly The Great Ocean Road and beyond is one of the world’s most scenic coastal drives.
03 A Walk On The Wild Side Spend a day with the family and discover what Phillip Island can offer. Featuring the parade of the blue penguins.
04 Victoria’s Food Culture If food reflects the people, then it would be safe to say that Victoria is as diverse as it gets.
05 On The Wheels Join Indonesian blogger, Bowie, from TravelJunkieIndonesia.com as he proves that Melbourne is also one of the most bicycle friendly streets in the world.
06 Concierge Interested in paying Melbourne a visit, take a look at our tips on how to get around.
MELBOURNE
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MELBOURNE
STREET
ART
STORY RICHMOND BLANDO PHOTOGRAPHS RICHMOND BLANDO
What started out as vandalism and an irreverent disrespect to property evolved into an astute expression of individuals and later on, as the buzz got louder, street artists found a haven in the streets of Melbourne, namely from Hosier and Rutledge Lanes opposite Federation Square to ACDC Lane off Flinders Lane.
I
t began approximately at the turn of the millennium, as something organic grew and blossomed from stencils sprayed into bluestone laneways and massive murals transformed dirty rubble-strewn city spaces into huge canvases of masterpieces. Steve, our guide, a thirty something gentleman, who was a very eccentric dresser and gives off a very weird and yet pleasant “I’m-an-artist” vibe, says that by definition, “Art is any product on any medium that will create an emotion to the viewer and the creator, be it in music, film, poetry, on a canvas, and yes even in the walls of these buildings and on these streets.” I couldn’t agree more, as the saying goes, “One man’s junk is another man’s treasure,” street artists in general have either been viewed as a subcultural hero or a public menace. To those who innocently pass by and admire the masterful strokes of spray paint and appreciate the fact that these artists create for the sake of art and their individualism, there is a sense of awe that overtakes you, property owners, of course treat it as a violation of their establishments. But over
the years, despite the howls of protests, these colorful laneways have become the cultural ‘Calling Card’ of Melbourne as described by Lonely Planet when it stated this as one of the top tourist destinations of Melbourne. For me personally, skepticism was the default attitude before the tour started. Coming from a country where it is considered illegal and plagued with distasteful phallic symbols and endless tagging (spray-painting of names and cuss-words) on walls, I had not seen any street art that stirred an emotion in me other than thinking that this person has nothing better to do with his time. This changed in an instant with the sheer visual bombardment of colors. While there are some works that focuses on the roots of street-art, which is the punk attitude of anti-establishment, there are those that were strokes of genius and unparalleled talents through carvings, stencils and other forms or mediums. While some locations have been deemed as the legal designated spots, most locations in Melbourne, street art (unless commissioned by the owner) is still
considered illegal and steep penalties can go as high as AUD 26,000 and two years imprisonment. More information about Melbourne Street Art Tours, visit melbournestreettours.com.
STREET ART FORMS AND MEDIUMS: TRADITIONAL - Painting on the surfaces of public or private property that is visible to the public, commonly with a can of spray paint or roll-on paint. Wood blocking- Artwork painted on a small portion of plywood or similar inexpensive material and attached to street signs with bolts. STREET INSTALLATION - this incorporates the use of 3-D objects and space to interfere with the urban environment. Once the object or sculpture is installed, the artist leaves it there.
STICKER - propagates an image or message in public spaces using homemade stickers. These stickers commonly promote a political agenda, or comprise an avant-garde art campaign. Sticker art is considered a subcategory of postmodern art. STENCIL - painting with the use of a homemade stencil, usually a paper or cardboard cutout. The desired design is cut out of a selected medium, and the image is transferred to a surface through the use of spray paint or roll-on paint.
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MELBOURNE
ON THE
FLY
STORY KRISTIE HAYDEN PHOTOGRAPHS MELBOURNE TOURISM BOARD
Zipping through the rain and treetops in Victoria, Australia gives Kristie Hayden a thrilling perspective of the Otway Ranges rainforest.
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MELBOURNE
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MELBOURNE bark gracefully falling away. Ben describes the wet open forest to the left. Thanks to logging and re-seeding in the seventies, these fast-growing trees stand at only 40 to 50 meters, a third of their potential height. Look right and an imaginary line separates the wet sclerophyll forest from the abutting cool temperate forest, with ancient Myrtle Beech, giant Blackwood, and a dense canopy of tree fern. “Legs up, lean back,” we’re instructed and one by one we zip smoothly and quickly, 35 meters to cloud station two. The zip-line is too high and fast for me to see any of the wildlife below. From curious flying marsupials to koalas and glowworms, wildlife thrives in the towering forest and ferny gullies. There are over fifty species of land mammals here. The carnivorous Black Snail is endemic in the Otway Ranges, feeding on other snails, slugs, and earthworms. More interesting, though, is tiny carnivorous Dusky Antechinus. A bold and voracious feeder on spiders, insects, even frogs and lizards. All the females are ‘on heat’ at exactly the same time and the males die from stress within weeks of furious mating. The Zipline Eco-Tour takes 2.5 hours and includes nine cloud stations, six flights, and two suspension bridges. Back on the ground, I wanted to go again.
The Otway Fly Treetop Walk is the longest, tallest walkway of its type in the world
T 01
he foggy forest gives way to misty green farmland and the Otway Fly looms near. This part of Southern Victoria is most famous for the Great Ocean Road and shipwreck coast where the sun sparkles over Bass Straight and some of Australia’s most magnificent waterfalls and rainforests soar. The Great Otway National Park reaches from Torquay to Princetown and up through the hinterland towards lakeside Colac, the most exciting part of which is home to Otway Fly Treetop Adventures. “The line is running really fast today,” says senior guide Linda. A self-confessed wimp, I assure myself it will be OK. They let four-year-olds do it. Open since 2010, The Zipline Eco-Tour is a continuous pulley system spanning nine tree platforms, or cloud stations, up to 30 meters above the forest floor. Harnesses checked, two guides Ben and Matt give a safety briefing and list of ‘do nots’. The mechanism that clips participants to the zip-line is called a cat. Do not touch the cat or risk squashed fingers in the ‘ouchy’ holes (a technical term). Do not hold the cable. Do not depart from a cloud station until instructed. Do not use a cloud station as a trampoline. Each cloud station is attached to a host tree, the Mountain Ash. Do not touch the tree. Ten meters up on cloud station one, the Mountain Ash soar in a sea of swaying white trunks with ribbons of red and brown
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MELBOURNE
01
Otway Fly,
Zip Line
02 Otway Fly,
Tree Top Walk
03 Great Ocean Road Drive 04 12 Apostles 04
03
GREAT OCEAN ROAD AND SHIPWRECK COAST
The Great Ocean Road is a 151-mile ocean drive east from Warrnambool to Torquay in Southwest Victoria. It skims Shipwreck Coast, Surf Coast, seaside villages, and the Great Otway National Park, and overlooks the limestone pillars of the Twelve Apostles and Bells Beach – home to Rip Curl Pro, the world’s longest-running surfing competition. Surfers have been competing on the Bells Beach swells since 1962. This year, the coveted Bells Trophy was won by Mick “White Lightning” Fanning and Hawaii’s Carissa Moore. The Great Ocean Road was hand-built by around 3,000 Australian soldiers and sailors on their return from the battlegrounds of World War I. Construction began in 1918 and the road was officially opened in 1932 – as a memorial to those killed at war. This year marks the 100-year anniversary of the outbreak of WWI and the opening of the Great Ocean Road Heritage Centre in Lorne which tells the story of the servicemen’s work. History takes a dramatic turn along Shipwreck Coast. There are known to have been around 630 shipwrecks on the Victoria coast between Cape Otway and Peterborough, one of the most famous being the wreck of Loch Ard in 1878 on the reef at Mutton Bird Island (in Port Campbell National Park). Of the 54 crew and passengers, only two survived – young crewman Tom Pearce and passenger Eva Carmichael. Activities along the trail include whale watching at Apollo Bay, trekking along old timber tramways, horse and mountain bike riding, kayaking, and wildlife spotting. Sharp eyes can spot koalas in the manna gums, platypus at Lake Elizabeth, kangaroos in the Great Otway National Park, wallabies, hooded plovers and rufous bristlebirds. Try Anglesea Heath just south DON’T LOOK DOWN! of Torquay for bird life and rare orchids. The Treetop Walk is the longest, tallest walkway Foodies should head inland to the old of its type in the world. Covering two kilometers, logging and railway town of Timboon for the one-hour walk includes an elevated 600-meter locally-made whisky, limoncello, cheese, steel walkway passing right through the rainforest canopy. honey, and ice cream.
TRAVEL NOTES
The all-weather Zipline Eco-Tour is classed as a ‘medium’ adrenalin activity and visitors practice on a zip line simulator before beginning the tour. Eco-clips attach the cloud stations to their host trees. These clips do not penetrate the tree or interfere with the tree’s growth. The Otway Fly is around three hours from state capital Melbourne.
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MELBOURNE
A WALK ON
THE WILD SIDE STORY RICHMOND BLANDO PHOTOGRAPHS RICHMOND BLANDO AND MELBOURNE TOURISM BOARD
It’s 8am on a Thursday, coffee in hand and seated in the front passenger side of a van, admiring the morning scene and looking forward to spending the day at Philip Island which is approximately a 90 minute ride from the city of Melbourne.
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MELBOURNE
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MELBOURNE
I
t’s 8am on a Thursday, coffee in hand and seated in the front passenger side of a van, admiring the morning scene and looking forward to spending the day at Philip Island which is approximately a 90 minute ride from the city of Melbourne. Many have said, and by ‘many’, I mean the travel books I’ve read and also the concierge at the hotel, that a day is enough to enjoy Philip Island and that most locals from Melbourne treat the island as a quick family getaway. The first inhabitants of Phillip Island were the aboriginal Bunurong tribe. They were not permanent residents but most likely visited during the mutton bird season to feast on the abundant eggs and young birds. It was originally named Western Port because it was located on the west of Port Jackson. Several attractions cater to families with young children like Panny’s Chocolate Factory and the A maze’N Things fun-park, I had a great time letting my inner child cut loose. Other attractions worth mentioning here are the Koala Conservation Park where you can encounter Koalas up close and personal and the Phillip Island Circuit which is home to the Moto GP and the Grand Prix, this unique go kart track is strung along some of the most breathtaking coastlines on the Island with rolling hills, rugged cliffs, and ocean to horizon.
01
A maze’N Things Photo Illusions
02 Go Kart at Moto GP Grand Prix 03 Koala Conservation Centre 04 Churchill Island 05 The Nobbies Centre 06 Penguin Parade 02
03
01
A MAZE’N THINGS
A Maze’N Things is located on the Phillip Island Road, opposite the Koala Conservation Centre. In a nutshell, it is a giant funhouse. An hour passed by quickly as I went though the Illusions Rooms, the Mirror Maze and Rotating Room. My personal highlight was the “LOOK OUT!!!!” Slide, which is
24 | September 2014
the highest indoor vertical slide in the Southern Hemisphere…not for the fainthearted.
WHAT ARE THE PHILLIP ISLAND NATURE PARKS?
COST - The parks each have a different focus and are all worth a visit when you are on Phillip Island. You can buy a great pass, which covers all parks, or individual tickets at each attraction. Currently, a family pass costs $101 and you can buy tickets online.
The Phillip Island Nature Parks are non profit organisation with four parks: the Penguin Parade; Nobbies Centre; Churchill Island Heritage Farm; and the Koala Conservation Centre. All revenue is invested into conservation and research endeavors on the island.
MELBOURNE But the Coup de grâce to any Phillip Island visit is witnessing the Penguin Parade after sundown, where hundreds of the Blue Penguins or as the locals would call them, the Fairy Penguins travel from the sea to their burrows inland. The caretaker said that they march inland during sundown to avoid the birds of prey and even from cats, dogs, rats, foxes, large reptiles and ferrets. If you are going for just a day to see the Phillip Island Nature Parks, I recommend you visit the Koala Conservation Centre in the morning, Churchill Island Heritage Farm in the early afternoon (and perhaps have lunch here too), then visit Nobbies Centre before finishing up at the Penguin Parade. My tip would be to move forward once people start moving (assuming you don’t get front seats to start with). It did not take long for us to get great seats near the front after moving forward when people left. After you have seen enough at the beach, take your time walking back to the information centre – it is awesome!
05
04
06
PANNY’S CHOCOLATE FACTORY
Panny’s Chocolate Factory is located almost 5 minutes away from the Island’s entry point. Panny, a Malaysian immigrant greeted us and showed us around the facility’s’ attractions which is a story of how chocolate is made through its fun-house-esque contraptions and exhibitions. It is not easy to maintain an adult demeanor as I found myself running around and touching things that I am not suppose to, almost like a… well, a kid in a candy store.
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MELBOURNE
VICTORIA’S
FOOD CULTURE STORY RICHMOND BLANDO PHOTOGRAPHS RICHMOND BLANDO AND MELBOURNE TOURISM BOARD
It is obvious to any visitor that Melbourne has such an open-mind when it comes to its food.
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MELBOURNE
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MELBOURNE
W
hen in Melbourne, plan out a few restaurants you would want to visit, because the choices are endless, if I’d stopped every time I smelled something delicious cooking I’d never have gotten anywhere. I love the Melbourne food scene. The battle to stay relevant is relentless. Her diversity is well reflected in her culinary offerings - the city excels in offering every kind of world cuisine with authenticity, whilst also demonstrating a strong and vibrant local food scene of its own. The coffee “people” always discuss which the best flat whites are in the world, connoisseurs flock to its many cafés to seek out that extra-special single-origin roast, and locals love nothing more than soaking up the sun and watching the world go by from the alfresco tables of a coffee shop, or curling up with a good book and latte in any number of cozy retreats. Being a melting pot of cultures also means you’ll always find the best of world food in Melbourne, everything from Indonesian specialties, Spanish tapas to contemporary fusion cooking. Of course, no great meal would be complete without wines to match. There are also a number of food markets taking place in Melbourne, a great way to spend a morning browsing for local produce, soaking up the sights, sounds and smells and buying fresh ingredients for a picnic lunch. One of many vibrant markets selling local, organic produce and delicacies, the South Melbourne Market is a busy, popular market selling not only food but with a number of coffee and pastry stalls, wine merchants stalls and liqueurs.
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01 01
02 Stuffed Peppers at Bar Nacional
02 Macaroons at Lux Bites at the South Yarra Valey 03 The Grub Restaurant 04 The Restaurant at the Chandon Winery 05 Sparkling Wine Tasting at the Chandon Winery
03
MELBOURNE Melbourne lies within close proximity of five very diverse and incredibly prolific winemaking regions and it would only take a day to visit the neighboring regions for experiencing firsthand the beautiful wines produced from these vineyards. The Yarra Valley is the region where Victoria winemaking all began, home to some prestigious caves. Not to be missed is a trip to Domaine Chandon, which was established by the French Champagne house, Moët & Chandon in 1986. Only an hour’s drive from Melbourne, it is considered to be one of the world’s most outstanding wine tourism experiences and is one of only five outside of France. Be inspired by the food She offers. But whatever you do, don’t make people wait for dinner. They’ve been known to get grumpy…. See you at the bar. 04 05
MELBOURNE FOOD CRAZE
From hipster cafés to rooftop bars, from food trucks to hidden eateries in the laneways, the food culture of Melbourne is vibrant and continuously growing.
GAZI (FORMERLY PRESS CLUB)
George Calombaris, the famed MasterChef judge, has reinvented the Press Club as a casual Greek canteen. The fist thing I noticed is the ceiling festooned with hundreds of upturned terracotta pots and fluorescent pink floodlit toilets. The souvlaki is a winner – a pillowy flatbread enveloping the likes of juicy charred chicken, with plenty of mustardy mayo, wisps of red onion, parsley, and a bundle of salty French fries. 2 Exhibition St +61 3 9207 7444 11:30 am – 11:00 pm www.gazirestaurant.com.au
D.O.C
It is short for ‘’denominazione di origine controllata’’, which denotes food and wine produced within certain regions of Italy. Opened in 2007 by Tony Nicolini as a place to find great pizza and artisan mozzarella. The pizza, which is among Melbourne’s best, no joke - thin crusts with the right balance of crisp and chew and pared-back toppings, it arrives on wooden boards, maybe keeping good company with San Daniele prosciutto, or in an insalata caprese (with tomato, whole leaf basil and goodquality olive oil). For me, all I can say is that the food is unpretentious for a discerning audience that knows the good stuff from the ordinary. 295 Drummond Street, Carlton +613 9347 2998 www.docgroup.net
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MELBOURNE
ON
TWO WHEELS STORY BOWIE HOLIDAY PHOTOGRAPHS RICHMOND BLANDO
I grew up in the kampung (village) of Blanciran - Central Java, so biking has always been an activity that is a part of me but unlike the daredevils of Jakarta’s large two-wheel communities, Melbourne does not only seem tame, but such a pleasure to bike around in.
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MELBOURNE
01
James Cook’s house. This is not a cottage that James Cook, the great explorer and discoverer of Australia, actually lived in himself. His parents moved there after he had left home to begin his life of adventure.
02 St. Patrick’s Cathedral is built from bluestone and sandstone and was constructed from 1858 to 1940, it is a leading example of Gothic-revival architecture. 02
01
B
icycles are easily accessed in designated spots around Melbourne (for a price of AUD 2.60 for 30 minutes and AUD 10.00 for the whole day), but I opted to get a guide with me so I can get the most of the experience. Murray Johnson of Rentabike@Federation Square combines the unique experience of sights, flavors and people around the city, taking his guests into some of the most interesting places one might otherwise ignore. We started at Vault Federation Wharf, riverside level below Federation Square, the weather report said to expect showers but it was a sunny morning so I was confident about the activity that day. Our trip’s itinerary would take us to explore the bohemian backstreets, lively markets, cafes, hidden arcades, bike paths and bluestone laneways and then be back for lunch. But as soon as we started, the weather betrayed us, not enough to stop us as it was only a slight drizzle that was sporadic though the wind chills made the temperature (8°C) feel a whole lot colder. 31 | September 2014
MELBOURNE Fifteen minutes into the tour the rain started to get heavier, I didn’t listen to the logic side of my brain that morning and ended up suffering for the decision to wear shorts that day. My shoes were filled with water, my arms were shaking from the cold, and there was a moment where I thought to myself, “Just cheer the hell up and enjoy the ride!” We went into the cafés that were completely hidden and obscure, like the Grub Food van (which is closed for the winter) and Grub hole in Fitzroy St., which had a hippie vibe as it was growing, its own herbs (at least, that’s what they portray it to be). It was such a remarkable experience to be part of something like this, it was just EPIC! The one thing I would wish for was that we had more time allocated for this tour during our stay. I would totally recommend this even if you are not an experienced biker.
03 The Grub café is of those well-known yet hidden cafes in Fitzroy 04 The grand Royal Exhibition Building is the world’s only surviving Great Hall, constructed as an exhibition space
For more information about the tours, visit www.rentabike.net.au.
and still used for that purpose.
03
04
SAFETY TIPS
• When you see a car that just stopped, be cautious as the door might open when you least expect it. • Never align your wheels to the Tram’s track, as it would cause a nasty spill.
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• Aussie bicycles orientation of rear brakes is on the left side, unlike in Indonesia where it is on the right side. • When going uphill, there is no shame in walking the bike uphill.
MELBOURNE
CONCIERGE
MELBOURNE
M
elbourne is Australia’s second largest city, and the capital of the southeastern state of Victoria, located at the head of Port Phillip Bay. Melbourne is Australia’s cultural capital, with Victorian-era architecture, extensive shopping, museums, galleries, theatres, and large parks and gardens. Its 4-million residents are both multicultural and sports-mad. Reasons to visit Melbourne include exploring surrounding regions such as Grampians National Park, The Great Ocean Road, and to visit Phillip Island to view the penguin parade.
GETTING THERE BY PLANE
Most International airlines are primarily serviced in Melbourne Airport, also referred to as Tullamarine Airport. The airport is a hub for Qantas, Virgin Australia, Regional Express and low-cost carriers Jetstar Airways and Tigerair Australia. Direct flights from Jakarta are available with Garuda Airlines.
GETTING AROUND BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT MYKI
To use the Myki system, with a Myki card, which costs $6. It does not have any travel credit. You will then need to top it up
either online, or at one of the outlets that has a special Myki machine installed. It can be used for the train, tram and buses.
MELBOURNE CITY TOURIST SHUTTLE
The Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle is a free hop-on/hop-off bus service, stopping off at 15 key points around the city. It runs every 15 minutes from 10:00am till 4:00pm daily, taking 45 minutes to complete the full trip.
BY TAXI
Cabs are plentiful in Melbourne and easily identified by their standard yellow color. The base flagfall rate is $3.20, with an extra $1.617 charged per kilometer and an extra 56.6 cents charged per minute if the speed drops below 21km/h. Here are some of the main cab companies in Melbourne. 13 CABS - Phone: 13 22 27 Silver Top Taxis - Phone: 13 10 08 Arrow Taxis - Phone: 13 22 11 Embassy Taxis - Phone: 13 17 55
BY CAR
Car hire is available at Melbourne Airport and throughout the city. There are plenty of companies you could choose to hire a car from, including Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, Thrifty, Network and Turnbulls. If you are going to be driving in Melbourne’s CBD, take particular note of a rare road rule that is used on quite a few of the major intersections; the “hook turn”. Essentially, it involves making a right turn from the left lane, which helps improve the flow of traffic in the right hand lane. 1. When the light goes green, right turning traffic queues up in front of the waiting cross-traffic, pulled over as far as possible to the left, essentially joining their lane. 2. When the cross traffic’s lane turns green, queued right-turners can make their turn 3. The cross traffic should wait until all the right turns have been made.
BY BICYCLE
Melbourne is increasingly becoming a more cycling-friendly city, with many improvements being made to cycling routes throughout the city. Cycling participation rates have grown exponentially in recent times, leading to more demand for better infrastructure. Cycling can be a great way to get around the city quickly and at a very affordable price. 33 | September 2014
VENTURE
Sept 2014
UBUD Introduction Ubud is flocked by tourists for its arts & crafts, restaurants and sceneries. Ubud was recently voted as the most fascinating city of Asia for a variety of reasons.
01 A World of Green A facility that integrates traditional academic education with environmentally sustainable practices.
02 From POD to Bar Supporting local farmers to grow organic cocoa beans, Pod produces high quality single origin chocolates.
03 Balinese Food Experience three iconic dishes that made Ubud a popular culinary destination.
04 Ubud Writer Festival Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is routinely ranked as the world’s most prestigious literary gathering.
05 Balinese Art Art-enthusiast Rachel Love explores the birth of modern Balinese art in a town beloved by artists.
07 Yoga Love For travelers looking to heal, Yoga in Ubud is a place you must try.
08 Taking The Plunge Check out the home of one of the best swimming pools in the world, the Hanging Gardens Ubud.
09 Concierge Our list of what to do and where to eat at a town in the middle of the island of Bali, Ubud.
UBUD
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A WORLD OF
GREEN STORY CYNTHIA ROSENFELD PHOTOGRAPHS GREEN SCHOOL BALI
Set amid the rice terraces of Bali, Indonesia is Green School – a groundbreaking facility integrating traditional academic education with environmentally sustainable practices. And it welcomes visitors from around the world.
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UBUD
“M
ud wrestling at school?” Crossing the all-bamboo 42-meter Sibang Bridge over the holy Ayung River near Ubud in central Bali, I followed Canadian entrepreneur John Hardy to Green School (www. greenschool.org), the photogenic bamboo facility he built with his American wife Cynthia between 2006 and 2008. The school offers environmentally-oriented education for children from prekindergarten through high school. The world’s first sustainable school built entirely of bamboo and mud sprawls across eight tropical hectares with nary a nail to hold up its structures. Ecofriendly gravel paths eliminate the need for concrete in this pedestrian-only campus. The use of bamboo is a response to the global depletion of forests; highlyregenerative, bamboo also offers a tensile strength that out performs even steel. Aromatic scents like lemongrass permeated the air, that is, until we approached the school’s five strapping water buffaloes. Their excrement, as the students already know, gets fed to red tiger worms that act as nature’s processing facility, digesting and extracting the methane that fuels the school’s biogas system. Other sustainable energy solutions visible around campus include microhydro power, solar power, and natural air-conditioning. During lesson breaks, visitors may enter the open-air classrooms. The roofs are made from local alang-alang grass and the walls from mud. Even the chalkboards have been fashioned from bamboo. 02
01 01
John Hardy was inspired by Al Gore’s 2006 film An Inconvenient Truth
02 The school is attracting green industries, green restaurants, and green homes in nearby villages 03/ Students learn 04 Balinese arts, how to build with bamboo, and how to plant, harvest, and cook organic rice
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03
When not taking notes on recycled paper at their ergonomic all-bamboo desks, students grow bananas, corn, tapioca, and chilies, among other edibles. Even the kindergarteners grown eggplants which, on the day I visited, they learned to turn into a delicious, all organic baba ganoush. Visitors can plant a handful of bamboo seedlings in the grounds alongside the school while villagers get into the act through a guaranteed buyback program to encourage the planting of seedlings around Bali. “Unlike wood from felled trees which must grow 30 years or more to be a viable building material,” explained John Hardy with an enthusiasm that belied the number of times he has already shared this fact, “Bamboo comes out of the ground like a train. It can be harvested for timber after just three to five years of growth!” I’d been advised to plan my visit to Green School according to the lunar calendar because on the first night of every full moon, students, parents and plenty of others gather around the
04
school’s custom-built mud pit. Here, as the tropical sun sank behind the soaring coconut palm fringed landscape, I took a seat alongside Hardy for what turned out to be truly eye-opening and highly entertaining. Created by Indonesian black belt taekwondo champion, Putu Witsen Widjaya, the Mepantigan is the realization of his dream to integrate judo, taekwondo, Brazilian capoeira, Korean self-defense, Balinese folklore, and shadow puppetry with mud wrestling and fire eating. “Throw down to the ground” is the literal translation, Hardy explained as mud flew through the humid Bali air. Yet what I observed had less in common with contact sports than performance art, starting with the traditional Balinese clothing Widjaya and his crew were wearing, accessorized with intricate Indonesian headdresses, ornamental spears, and the occasional python or fighting cock. Early variations, Hardy continued, took place on the beach with dancers lathered in coconut oil but “everyone got too slippery to throw one
another. Mud works much better.” Mud also reflects Green School’s emphasis on the environment. The gamelan music became louder as the dancers moved out of the mud pit and began fire eating close to Heart of School, an awe-inspiring structure comprising 2,630 bamboo poles in two spirals linked by a central double helix that rises to 18 meters at its highest point. Behind a makeshift scrim, dancers jerked themselves about like Indonesian shadow puppets before jumping back in the mud to turn each other upside down while simultaneously acting out a classic Balinese love story. Eager for more, I learned that there are three Mepantigan troupes which perform regularly around Bali: in Ubud, Denpasar and at Green School, the only purpose built arena. All three groups practice together every Saturday. Widjaya opens these practices to new students of any age, because, as he explains to me after the show, “Mepantigan can help anyone cultivate compassion.”
VISIT GREEN SCHOOL
The school is open to visitors between Monday and Friday at 9:30 and 13:30. Groups of more than 10 are asked to contact tours@greenschool.org All tour proceeds contribute to the Local Scholar Program – a program enabling Indonesian students to study at the Green School.
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FROM POD
TO BAR
STORY JED DOBLE PHOTOGRAPHS JED DOBLE AND POD CHOCOLATE
Indonesian chocolate producers are few and far between. Quite an irony since Indonesia is the third largest producer of cacao. Bali based Pod supports local farmers to grow organic cocoa beans to produce a selection of high quality single origin chocolates.
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I
met Toby Garritt, owner and main man behind Pod, by coincidence at the lobby of the W Bali. He was wide eyed and smiling when he was introduced to me. He showed me his products and I was immediately impressed. Only then did I realize that ,unknown to me, I had already been enjoying the chocolates Pod was producing at some of Bali’s hotels. I told Toby that I had to visit his factory. And a few weeks later, I did come to visit. I ask Toby how he got into the chocolate business. “We were driving along and we saw some cocoa trees. I’d never tasted cocoa before and never even knew what a cocoa tree looked like. A friend picked a cocoa pod off the tree, cut it open and then asked us to try some. We were amazed by the flavor, we were not expecting it to taste like that, part mangosteen, part soursop.” But the next thing that popped into their heads was, how does one make chocolate for this. Toby later discovered that there was no place really to go to learn how to make chocolate. You had to discover it by yourself. It was clear from early on that the process at the farm level was critical to make consistent and high quality chocolate. After a huge number of tests on roasting times and recipes, Toby finally thought that he had it. But when they repeated the process, the outcome would be totally different. The reason for this was that farmers they were sourcing their beans from were doing different things to the beans. After the farmers have harvested the
UBUD cocoa pods from the trees, some of the most crucial work begins to make fine, high-grade chocolate. The beans must be carefully fermented to bring out the very best flavors. It is unfortunate that the process of proper fermentation is underappreciated. Most farmers in Bali don’t ferment their beans, there is no tradition of fermenting in Indonesia. Countries that have big production capacity need to use fermented beans. To the artisanal chocolatier, proper cocoa fermentation is critically important. Chocolate made from unfermented cocoa beans does not have the body and richness as chocolate made from fermented cocoa beans. Thus finding fermented beans in Bali was not easy. Toby had to help the 200 or so farmers they work with understand the value of fermentation. Another area Pod works with the farmer is in pest control. Across Indonesia, the biggest pest to the cacao pods is the pod boarer. It is a mosquito-like insect that drills a hole into the cocoa pod and lays thousands of eggs inside. These hatch inside the pod and destroy it from the inside out. At least 50% of harvests are
POD CHOCOLATE | Jalan Tukad Ayung, Carangsari, Petang, Bali | +62 361 837 0888 | +62 361 239 440 www.podchocolate.com | Facebook: podchocolate
destroyed. Using pesticides doesn’t help, aside from being expensive and unhealthy, pesticides kill all the insects, including the good insects, like ants and aphids which help pollinate the trees. Toby told me that they work with a young agronomist, and she came up with the idea of using pheromones of the female pod boarer to attract the male pod boarer. Essentially, they try to kill the male pod boarers so that they cannot breed. This is a method of pest control called improved pest management, which doesn’t focus on just killing insects but focuses on the breeding cycle of the insects. “This connection with the land and respect and support for its farmers that forms the heart of Pod’s chocolate making philosophy,” Toby says. As Toby speaks, his passion for the business, their partners and the chocolate is palpable. If you are in Bali, be conscious of the chocolate desserts you consume, I am quite sure, they may be made from Pod chocolates. Who knows soon, Pod may reach Jakarta and other cities in Indonesia or abroad. Passion drives success, and that is what we wish for Pod.
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FUSHIMA INARI-TAISHA SHRINE | 68 Yabunouchi-cho, Fukakusa Fushimi-ku, Kyoto | +81 75-641-7331
UBUD
BALINESE
FOOD STORY RICHMOND BLANDO
A trip to Ubud is not complete without experiencing the three iconic dishes that made this Balinese town a culinary buzzword. Interestingly enough, most of the dishes that originated in Ubud is also available in the restaurants that actually share the same name as the dish itself.
F
orget the fact for a while, that Ubud is the home of great restaurants like Mozaic, 3 monkeys or Locavore. They are places to visit no doubt, but first thing is first and head on to the places that locals have deemed the food as iconic as the temples themselves. These are not pretentious and posh places, in fact, it is most likely that you will sit on the floor lined with mats and you will also find yourself eating with your hands. How is that for “an authentic Balinese experience?”
WARUNG IBU OKA
BEBEK BENGIL
Jl Suweta, Ubud, Bali
Jl. Hanoman, Ubud, Bali +62 361 975 489
IDR 30,000 - 50,000 Opening hours: 1am-4pm
IDR 70,000 - 200,000 Opening hours: 11am-10pm
Ask any Ubud local about the best Babi Guling there is, chances are they will point you the Warung Ibu Oka. There, you’ll see lunchtime crowds waiting for the suckling pig that has been roasting for four hours that morning. For me, it is one of the most authentic meals you’ll have in Ubud. Order a spesial to get the best cut.
Loosely translated means “Dirty Duck”. There is a story on how they got the name, but what it is synonymous to, is the famous Crispy Balinese Duck dish, which is marinated for 36 hours in spices and then fried up hot giving a crispy skin exterior but a very tended and flavorful meat.
NASI AYAM KEDEWATAN
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The star is sate lilit (minced chicken satay). Chicken is minced, combined with an array of spices including lemongrass, then moulded onto bamboo skewers and grilled. Simple, yet flavorful comfort food. Jl Raya Kedewatan +62 361 742 7168 IDR 15,000 average Opening hours: 9am-6pm 01
Babi guling at Warung Ibu Oka.
02 Bebek Bengil. 03 Nasi Ayam Kedewatan.
TIPS
• Ibu Oka opens at 11, I suggest you skip breakfast or at least take a very light one if you intend avoid the day-tripping bus tours because come 12:00 the lines may not only be long but you might find yourself settling for the less than popular cuts of meat.
• If you can take the heat, make it a point to order your meal with “sambal”. Sure, it will make your lips burn a bit, but trust me, that’s a sexy look on you.
KIYOMIZU-DERA | 1-294 Kiyomizu Higashiyama-ku Kyoto, Japan | +81 75-551-1234
• Finally, if you have eaten your fill and find yourself looking for other authentic food from Ubud, try the infamous “Naughty Nuris”. The demand of this fall-off-the-bone ribs made this restaurant branch out in Seminyak, Kelapa Gading and Pantai Indah Kapuk.
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UBUD
WRITERS & READERS FESTIVAL 2014 STORY RICHMOND BLANDO PHOTOGRAPHS MATT OLDFIELD
I had wondered when the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival started in 2002, if any of them believed then that it would be a much-anticipated yearly event today.
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ver the years, 25,000 have attended the festival since the first year it was incepted in 2002. The UWRF is now routinely ranked among the world’s most prestigious literary gatherings. Janet De Neefe, founder and director of UWRF, has modeled the Ubud event on famous and successful fairs like the Sydney and Byron Bay Writers Festivals in which she participated as a guest author. The endresult of the event is that when you walk away after four days, you will be in a state of awe. It is because of that reason that the actual festival is limited to 4 days, with 9 to 5 sessions, plus nighttime events. The schedule is consciously designed to be very intense with several simultaneous events happening. The 2014 theme Saraswati: Wisdom & Knowledge unites the program in an energizing exploration of how we learn and the wisdom to be gained by creative expression. With over 150 writers from more than 30 countries it’s truly a celebration of global issues, big ideas, and extraordinary stories. Sir VS Naipaul leads the lineup, a Trinidad-born, UK-based writer, with a knighthood, a Booker Prize and Nobel Laureateship under his belt, this is a rare, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness one of the literary legends of the 20th century. From Indonesia, UWRF has invited publishing pioneer, Goenawan Mohamad, intellectual and Islamic scholar Azyumardi Azra, respected Ubud-based art patron and gallerist, Agung Rai, indie rocking artists Made Bayak Muliana, and award-winning documentary maker Dwitra J Ariana. ‘Truman Capote with a machete’ and acclaimed architect, 44 | September 2014
garden designer and columnist Made Wijaya joins the line-up, as does How to act Indonesian YouTube hit sensation Sacha Stevenson. Culturally diverse - The festival celebrates great writing in whatever format it is found: in books, on screen, in journalism, songs or on stage. It is culturally diverse in the sense of artistic expressions that are not restricted to the written word, but are based on the art of words. The only challenge might actually be is picking the events you want to go to since one cannot attend all of them. But
the goal is to actually keep you moving so you will not lose interest or momentum as Ubud can be a very tempting place to just stay behind in your hotel room and relax for the whole day. To top it off, it will also have literary lunches which are in-depth conversations, intriguing panel discussions with some of the world’s leading thinkers and writers, twilight performances, film screenings, poetry slams, street parties, cultural master classes, art exhibitions, book launches and more, be sure not to miss this world class event set in Bali’s cultural heartland.
UBUD
BALINESE
ART STORY RACHEL LOVE
In the central foothills of Bali is the town of Ubud, beloved by artists. Bali-resident and art-enthusiast Rachel Love explores the birth of modern Balinese art and advises on how to buy.
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A
rt is omnipresent in Bali, Indonesia. Inseparable from the cultural and religious life of the communities, it plays an intense role in daily life, and can be seen everywhere from elaborately-carved doorways, stone statues, and wood sculptures, to temple architecture, fabulous paintings, masks, textiles, jewellery, and beautifully-crafted offerings to the gods. For centuries, artists, artisans, and craftsmen in Bali worked under the
ART-BUYING TIPS DO’s
Take your time If you find a piece that you like, put it on hold and go back for another look before buying.
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patronage of the priests and the ruling classes, decorating the royal courts. These artists of old never signed their work; paintings were produced collaboratively and therefore anonymously, and the men usually lived close together in artists’ villages. Generally they had little room for personal expression as their rendering of figures and ornamentations had to follow strictly-prescribed religious rules and aesthetic guidelines. Things began to change, however, with the arrival of avant-garde foreign artists in the 1920s and ‘30s, such as
Walter Spies from Germany, Dutchman Rudolf Bonnet, and the Belgian AdrienJean Le Mayeur, who based themselves in Ubud and encouraged individual freedom of expression. These artists also promoted departure from the confining traditions by providing painting media and introducing western painting concepts – notably perspective techniques, picture and colour composition, and human anatomy. The result was an explosion of highly individualist artwork that led to the birth of the modern traditional style of Balinese painting. A second movement,
Research Browse the galleries and check out some exhibitions to get a feel for your taste.
won’t be wasted. Remember, you are the one who has to look at it every day.
Buy what you like Follow your heart. As long as you are drawn to a painting, and as long as you like it, your money
Buy from up-and-coming artists Find quality pieces by Bali’s art school graduates, or new artists who haven’t been featured in an exhibition before and therefore still sell their work for a reasonable price.
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A Balinese painter at work
02 Painting choices at an Ubud art gallery
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born of European influence, occurred in the early ‘60s, with the arrival of Arie Smit to the village of Penestanan near Ubud. He encouraged the artists in this area to explore and experiment with vivid colours and more simple abstract forms. The paintings in this style are much more expressionist, with little attention to detail or perspective. If you wish to buy a painting, the town of Ubud in central Bali is the most obvious place to conduct your search. Artwork here is incredibly accessible and often remarkably inexpensive. If you are a newcomer to the art world and feel intimidated about making a purchase, it is best to go into the process armed with some knowledge, and then start looking for a piece within your budget. A good idea is to first learn a little bit about Bali’s classical artwork by visiting some of Ubud’s museums of art, such as Neka Art Museum on Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Museum Puri Lukisan on Jl. Raya Ubud, and Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) in Pengosekan, all of which showcase collections of traditional and modern Balinese paintings as well as works of foreigners who have lived in Bali, dating from the late 1920s up to the present. The famous Pita Maha style of painting
depicts human figures and scenes from everyday Balinese life, while other classical works feature wayang figures, rich floral designs, and flame-and-mountain motifs. Also of interest is the Blanco Renaissance Museum on Jl. Raya Campuhan, which is a memorial to the work and life of the eccentric Catalan expatriate artist Don Antonio Blanco. Inside you can view his collection of erotic paintings and collages. When you are ready to buy, classic, contemporary, and abstract paintings, fine art, folk art, framed photographs, and decorative wall panels can all be found in Ubud’s numerous galleries, studios, art shops, and markets. An excellent place to start is Purpa Gallery on Monkey Forest Road. Pak Nyoman Purpa has been selling paintings for 45 years; you’ll more than likely find him at the gallery, drinking sweet black coffee, smoking clove kretek cigarettes, and talking. His massive art space is stacked haphazardly with a multitude of original paintings. If it speaks to you – buy it. Meet the artist – the person who knows the artwork better than anybody else. Commission a painting! Prices may not be negotiable in the fine art galleries, but for commercial artwork figures are always ‘open to discussion’. Good luck and have fun! 02
DON’TS
Overspend Stick to your budget so that you won’t have regrets. Be scared to ask Galleries can be daunting places but the staff will
help you. If you like a piece, find out about it. If you don’t know where to start, ask for advice. Be pressured into buying Just because someone gives you the hard sell, it doesn’t mean you have to buy.
Be swayed by trends or fame The work of an award-winning artist or the latest trend in abstract expressionism might be the last thing you want on your wall, so don’t feel you have to pursue the idea.
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YOGA
LOVE STORY MEGAN SNEDDEN PHOTOGRAPHS MEGAN SNEDDEN
Elizabeth Gilbert’s 2006 memoir Eat, Pray, Love has caused a tourism spike in Ubud, Bali among travelers looking to heal or have tropical love affairs
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UBUD neighboring Balinese family that played music most days before 7am. They said they wanted the sounds to awaken the spirit of the neighborhood by letting Macklemore’s Thrift Shop blast louder than their crowing roosters. Although shocking as a cold shower, I was happy for the music because it got me out of bed in time for early classes. Typically, I’d plan for just one session and end up taking several. When in Ubud, my life flowed like the rivers that run through town. I would start the day at Yoga Barn — one of the most popular establishments in town — with power Vinyasa then would drink a whole coconut in their Garden Kafe. This usually led to an afternoon class by confluence of other yogis who ebbed in and out of the locale, pouring over the plethora of exciting options. My favorite session ended up being Long Slow and Deep with Les Leventhal, an American expat who coaxes his students into positions that require clay-like elasticity. The biggest challenge, however, was trying to maintain the poses during his lightning rounds of jokes. He is one of hundreds of 01
O
n the second floor of a bamboo-stilted bungalow, electronica beats and stomping feet resound across the surrounding tropics. A crowd of one hundred yogis hop, sway, and glide about slick cherry-wood floors, assigning themselves individual rhythms, their eyes closed, their arms flailing. As no one is allowed to talk to one another, the focus stays on uninhibited movement. This is the culture of the Yoga Barn’s ecstatic dance class in Ubud. The point is to experience the freedom of your body in a supportive community. It’s the yang to yin yoga: instead of holding postures, you move everything everywhere. It’s also an important facet of the yoga culture in Ubud. If you’re going to practice here, then you must dance – and be willing to stretch your bounds by exploring different yoga styles. When traveling, or even living, in Ubud, there is freedom to experiment not only with dance but also with endless styles of yoga. There’s Hatha Flow at Taksu, Tibetan bowl meditation at Yoga Barn, Roll and Release at Radiantly Alive, but the selection doesn’t stop there — festivals and workshops from teachers regularly make an appearance. And then there are the even more unusual workshops: astrology, a Mayan cocoa ceremony, or chakra alignment. I stayed in Ubud for two months and rented a bungalow settled between glowing green rice paddies and a 52 | September 2014
01
Walking through
02 USA Yoga
02
03 A Balinese lady
the rice paddy
Instructor at Yoga
performing her
fields of Ubud
Barn, Ubud
daily offering
04 The quaint tile rooftops of Ubud
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teachers who come and go from Ubud. Local Balinese seem to define their hometown in terms of pre and post Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat, Pray, Love: since 2010, the book-to-movie’s popularity has caused a tourism spike among travelers looking to heal or have tropical love affairs. It’s common to spot someone
cozying up to the book over warm turmeric milk or a cool chlorophyll drink at Soma Café on Jl. Gautama: one of a few main yogi hangouts. Indeed, the town’s broken sidewalks reflect the weathered nature of the place. Skilled at observing foreigners, roaming monkeys easily distinguish their favorite treats and
will leap to snatch them up. Beyond dealing with primates and sampling different forms of Hatha, the thing that stretched me farther than yoga was a spiritual reading with a Cherokee mystic named White Star, a pseudocelebrity healer in town. After a deep tissue massage and Reiki at Karsa Spa, I took a motorbike over to White Star’s house. Her healing room was filled with vestiges of sacred geometry like crystal prisms and depictions of spirit animals. After granting me a Native American blessing, she called upon her guides to bring me messages from the past and future. Among telling me I used to be a Greek philosopher in another life and I am destined to be a healer, she closed with, “Oh, and you must try Kundalini Yoga, it will suit you perfectly.” I thought that living in Bali for two months I had tried everything, but I will never deny a message from the beyond, so I suppose I still have more stretching to do.
KUNDALINI TANTRA KRIYAS
The Yoga Barn (www.theyogabarn.com) is in central Ubud on Jl. Raya Pengosekan. A three-hour Kundalini Yoga class is held weekly on Sunday mornings between 7.00 and 10.00 for Rp 220,000. Liberate your energy!
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TAKING
THE PLUNGE STORY JED DOBLE PHOTOGRAPHS HANGING GARDENS UBUD
Home of one of the best swimming pools in the world, Hanging Gardens Ubud is your perfect destination to relax and recharge right in the middle of the Ubud rainforest.
H
anging Gardens, Ubud is nestled deep in the heart of Ubud’s rich rainforest preserve. This enchanting five star luxury hotel, set on 3.2 hectares of lush foliage with the Ayung River rushing below it. The property has 36 private villas and two suites, each enhanced by its own granite infinity pool, offering complete privacy and seclusion. Each villa is designed with traditional Alang Alang thatched roofs in complete harmony with nature. The property boasts of its stunning and much-lauded twin-level cascading pools, which overlooks lush jungle landscapes. Named as one of the best swimming pools in the world, it offers stunning views as you settle in for a dip, with monkeys chattering in the coconut palms nearby and the fast-flowing river coursing below, while facing the magical Hindu Dalem Segara Temple across the spectacular plunging gorge. A pair of funiculars gently glide through the canopied jungle to the terraced levels of the property. The verdant gardens incorporate indigenous flora and fauna such as cocoa and coffee trees, which blend serenely with bamboo, flame trees and orchids to create a unique tropical paradise. Each villa has a spacious bathroom with hand finished terrazzo bath and rain shower-heads, expansive outdoor bath and shower, private terrace with
granite-lined infinity pool and a lounge area under a traditional bale. If you are in search for an escape, this is your ideal destination. For families or friends traveling together, the Family Villa is ideal. It features two luxurious bedrooms and two spacious bathrooms. The upper level includes a masters bedroom, an indoor/ outdoor bathroom, a large terrace, an infinity pool and poolside gazebo. A second bedroom is located on the lower level, along with an additional bathroom and a second terrace. With floor to ceiling windows on both floors, these villas offer guests sweeping views across the valley. The Family Pool Villa can accommodate four adults or two adults and two children
in superior luxury The resort also has a luxurious spa which combines natural local ingredients and ancient techniques to create beauty therapies and treatments that soothe the mind, rejuvenate the body and energize the soul. The hotel’s renowned restaurant serves innovative Indonesian dishes with regional Asian flare and Western and Mediterranean influences. They use local herbs and spices grown on the estate and in the neighboring village and freshlycaught fish from Jimbaran Bay. The epitome of luxury in a stunning rainforest setting, the Hanging Gardens, Ubud is an idyllic setting for a getaway or a holiday in the Island of the Gods.
HANGING GARDENS UBUD Desa Buahan Payangan, Gianyar, Bali Tel. +62 361 982700 reservations@hanginggardensubud.com www.hanginggardensubud.com
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CONCIERGE
UBUD U
bud is a remarkable town in the middle of the island of Bali. For more than a century, it has been the island’s preeminent center for fine arts, dance and music. While it once was a haven for scruffy backpackers, cosmic seekers, artists and bohemians, Ubud is now a hot spot for literati, glitterati, art collectors and connoisseurs. Famous names walk its busy sidewalks everyday. Elegant five star hotels and sprawling mansions now stand on its outskirts, overlooking the most prized views in Bali.
GETTING THERE
If you want to take a taxi to Ubud from South Bali, it is best to charter the vehicle for a return trip. Otherwise, you’ll be hit with a 30% fee for going out-of-town. Metered fares, one-way and not including surcharge are around Rp 150,000 from Denpasar and Rp 200,000 from Kuta.
GETTING AROUND
No metered taxis operate in Ubud, and any you see will be dropping off passengers from further afield. Most local transport comes in the form of SUVs or minivans that can be hired with a driver for specific trips. Look for the circular yellow “E” logo on
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the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. Drivers wait along the busy streets holding “TAXI” signs, calling out and offering their taxis as you walk by. You can (and should) haggle a bit over the price, and pay less than for the equivalent journey in a metered taxi. There are guys on motorbikes that also offer bike rides (ojek) and are about half the price of those in a car.
WHAT TO DO
Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewelry shops. Head for the boutique type stores on Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud for higher quality goods (with appropriately higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.
UBUD MARKET
Located at the corner of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud, this is a double story warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs, and all manner of other souvenirs aimed specifically at tourists. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living, and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in to buy. Most of the merchants downstairs will lose interest if you try to get a reasonable price. It is better to try the shops upstairs where you will find the same products often for sale at lower prices. You will still need to use your best bargaining skills of course. Try to avoid the period from 11AM-2PM when tour buses from further afield tend to arrive en-masse.
UBUD PURI SAREN UBUD (UBUD PALACE)
An Ubud Kingdom Palace with beautiful Balinese traditional houses as a residence of Ubud King. It is set in the center of Ubud Bali with traditional art market just in front of it. This palace is an artistic cultural life center, while the traditional market is the symbol of local economics resident. The tourists who go to Ubud will visit this place and they will feel that their trip is incomplete if they don’t visit the Puri Saren (Ubud Palace) and traditional market, because both
UBUD MONKEY FOREST
This is a nature reserve and temple complex in Ubud, Bali. The complex houses approximately 605 Crab-eating Macaque monkeys. Over 10,000 tourists a month visit the Sacred Monkey Forest. The Monkey Forest contains the Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal temple as well as a “Holy Spring” bathing temple and another temple used for cremation ceremonies. Visitors will notice the interesting phenomenon of numerous obese monkeys, a testament to the almost unbounded food supply the huge number of tourists entering in and near the forest provide. There are also 115 separate species of trees, some of which are considered holy and are used in various Balinese spiritual practices.
PURA SARASWATI TEMPLE
Just a bit west of Pura Desa Ubud is the very picturesque Pura Taman Saraswati . Waters from the temple at the rear of the site feed the pond in the front which overflows with pretty lotus blossoms. There are carvings that honour Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom and the arts, who has clearly given her blessing to Ubud. This temple is not only decorated with so many fine carvings and inside the Padmasana shrine located in the northeast, but it also contains statues of Goddess Saraswati and the statue of the devil Jero Gede Mecaling as high as 3 meters in front of the temple.
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The Foundation for Kansai Region Promotion (Kansai International Tourism Promotion Center) www.facebook.com/Visit.Kansai
VENTURE
Sept 2014
KANSAI Introduction Modern and ancient, fast and slow, these contrasts highlight the beauty and magnificence of the Kansai region. Join us as we give you a quick visit.
01 Kyoto’s Splendid Shrines & Temples
Be mesmerized by the exquisite religious architecture of Kyoto at the same time be enthralled by the humility and piousness of pilgrims visiting holy sites.
02 Communal Baths Take a dip into a very traditional yet personal ritual of the Japanese and soak your cares away.
03 Fill My Tummy A trip to Japan would not be complete without the tales of the food we ate. Join us as we eat through Kansai.
04 The Wizarding World Of Harry Potter
Universal Studios Japan has recently unveiled their newest fantasy land, join us for a ride!
05 Shopper’s Paradise The Hankyu Umeda Main Store is a jewel box full of precious finds any avid shopper would want to explore.
06 A Place To Rest Your Head You’ll need adequate rest in order to continue your exciting jaunt around Kansai, read some of our recommendations on where to stay.
07 Concierge Some fast facts which may be useful on your trip to Kansai.
KANSAI
01
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FUSHIMI INARI-TAISHA SHRINE | 68 Yabunouchi-cho, Fukakusa Fushimi-ku, Kyoto | +81 75-641-7331
KANSAI
KYOTO’S SPLENDID
SHRINES & TEMPLES STORY JED DOBLE
Any visitor to the ancient city of Kyoto will marvel at its beauty and scenic vistas. The city was the capital of Japan from 794 to 1868, hence it still retains a certain charm and traditional demeanor about it.
B
eing a city steeped in tradition and history, it is no wonder that Kyoto still keeps its old ways. It is fairly common to see Kyoto ladies emerge in full kimono attire to do their daily chores. The various colorful temples and shrines are a fitting backdrop to such daily scenes. Being an ancient city, traveling to Kyoto affords you a glimpse of the past while being firmly planted in the present. The city is home to over 1,000 Buddhist temples and numerous Shinto shrines (Japan’s indigenous faith). These masterpieces of religious architecture are found all over the city and draw many tourist and faithful all year round. The famed Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) and the huge expanse of Higashi Honganji are some of the most visited Kyoto landmarks. I got to visit two sites, which peaked my attention, although they are equally as popular as the former. The most popular shrine, Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, with its mesmerizing arcades of vermillion torii (shrine gates) spread across a mountainside; and the UNESCO World Heritage site, Kiyomizu-dera in eastern Kyoto. My visit to the two sites were made possible through the help of the Tourism Division of the Kyoto Prefectural Government.
01
Fushimi Inari Shrine.
02 Kiyomizu Temple.
FUSHIMI INARI SHRINE
This intriguing shrine was dedicated to the God of rice and sake by the Hata clan in the 8th century. As the role of agriculture diminished, deities were enrolled to ensure prosperity in business enterprises. The magical, seemingly unending path of over 10,000 vibrant orange torii gates that wind through the hills behind Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine makes it one of the most popular shrines in Japan. The walk around the upper precincts is a pleasant day hike. It also makes for a delightfully eerie stroll in the late afternoon and early evening, when the various graveyards and miniature shrines along the path take on a mysterious air. This shrine is the central location for some 30,000 Inari shrines throughout the entirety of Japan.
KIYOMIZU TEMPLE
Located halfway up Otowa Mountain in the eastern part of Kyoto City, Kiyomizudera is a historic temple that was established in 778, even before Kyoto
became the capital of Japan. Since its foundation, the temple has burned down many times. The third Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu rebuilt most of the current buildings in the early Edo period (1631 to 1633). The Main Hall (Hondo) of the temple is designated as a national treasure. The two most famous places of the temple are the Main Hall, where the Eleven Headed and Thousand Armed Kannon Bodhisattva - which is famous for the power of answering prayers - is enshrined and Kiyomizu Stage, which is the veranda of the Main Hall extended over a precipice. Kiyomizu Stage was built using a special method; huge 12-meter high keyaki (Japanese Zelkova) pillars were assembled without using a single nail and the floor was installed using more than 410 cypress boards. Kiyomizu-dera (the temple of clear water) was named after Otowa Waterfall. Water from a spring in the mountain has been falling there since its foundation. The cherry blossoms enhance the beauty of Kiyomizu-dera and fresh verdure in spring and colored leaves in autumn. It is well known as a landscape that represents Kyoto. It would be our pleasure if you took the time to visit and deepen your understanding of the Japanese culture and spirit.
FRIENDLY FOX
The Inari shrine also features dozens of statues of foxes. The fox is seen as the messenger of the God of grain, Inari, and the stone foxes are often known by the same name. The keys often depicted in the fox mouths are keys to granaries. Fox shaped prayer cards are often used by the faithful.
KIYOMIZU-DERA | 1-294 Kiyomizu Higashiyama-ku Kyoto, Japan | +81 75-551-1234
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KANSAI 01
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KANSAI
COMMUNAL
BATHS STORY JED DOBLE
Enjoying a Japanese bath is a unique cultural experience. For first timers it may be a little intimidating, but once you get used to it, the Japanese bath often becomes an addiction; relaxing, healing, and regenerating its followers.
“N
oren” curtains often mark the entrance to a bath or a ‘sento’, blue for male and red for female. Most baths require you to take off your shoes or slippers before entering. Sometimes accommodations switch baths, the bath that is for men in the evening may be for women the next morning, so confirm the correct one before entering. There are a multitude of styles of baths including indoor and outdoor. The washing area and bathing areas are separate. Clean yourself in the washing area and soak in the bathing area. Be observant. Watch the people around you so that you know what is going on. Most places follow these general guidelines but some do differ slightly. The main thing to remember is to keep the bath water separate from the washing water, and be polite and courteous to other bathers. The Japanese are very traditional,
01
hence knowing the bathing routine is very important. 1. Take off your clothes in the change room, walk into the bath naked taking with you only a small wash cloth or face towel 2. Wash your body 3. Soak in the bath 4. Relax and enjoy! First stop: the showers. Use plenty of soap. The objective is to become clean enough to share the baths with others. Use the wash cloth or face towel to scrub yourself clean. I found that other patrons were vigorously scrubbing themselves. This may have been a signal to show that they were clean. When it’s time to soak yourself,
just proceed into the bath, carry the face towel with you. Soap, used liberally in the showers, mustn’t enter the bath itself. The face towel, like swimwear, is regarded as potentially polluting. Friends, workmates and family members chat between themselves, but it’s not done to make small-talk with strangers. I found the experience quite liberating and relaxing. The temperature of the water will be a very warm 38 degrees Celsius. The water is soothing and calming, perfect after a whole day of sightseeing and walking around. 02
The shower station.
02 The communal bath, time for a dip.
NO DOUBLE DIPPING
Never soak the face towel into the bath, this is a big no no. Drape it on your head or on your shoulder. Once in the bath, place your neatly folded face towel on your head or at the edge of the pool near where you’re soaking. You can remove it from your head occasionally to mop your face, but don’t rinse it in the water.
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KANSAI
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KANSAI
FILL
MY TUMMY STORY JED DOBLE
My trip to Japan was highlighted by the fact that I love Japanese food. A huge part of my excitement of going to Japan came from the food. And heading to Kansai added to my excitement. Many famous Japanese foods originate in this region and I was raring to sample them all.
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KANSAI
I
n Kyoto, one of my first meals was a kaiseki, which is a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner. It also refers to the collection of skills and techniques that are needed to produce such dishes and is almost the same as a Western degustation dinner. The Kaiseki I had was a set menu which came together with the Ryokan or traditional style inn I was staying at. The meal consisted of selected food served on individual trays. It was a wonderful event which I relished partaking in. This is where it sinks in that the Japanese really take food preparation and plating into a higher level of art. Factors like balance, taste, appearance and color all play an integral factor in the meal. To this end, only fresh seasonal ingredients are used and are prepared in ways that aim to enhance their flavor. Local ingredients are often included as well. Finished dishes are carefully presented on plates that are chosen to enhance both the appearance and the seasonal theme of the meal. Dishes are beautifully arranged and garnished, often with real leaves and flowers, as well as edible garnishes designed to resemble natural plants and animals. It was not just a feast for the stomach but also a feast for the eyes. The term Kushiage may not sound familiar to many, but once you see them, you will know what they are. These are the famous tasty panko (breadcrumb) covered, deep-fried morsels of meat, seafood and vegetables dipped in juicy sauces that you may see in izakayas. Kushiage is widely known as kushikatsu in Osaka, where there are many streets lines with restaurants serving kushiage. Osakans love their food and they are known to spend their last penny just to have a good meal. Often prepared and cooked by the dinner table, kushiage is the perfect party food, barbecue platter or communal social dining experience.
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KANSAI OKONOMIYAKI
Known as a kind of Japanese-style pancakes or pizza, okonomiyaki can be fast and there are lots of food venders sell okonomiyaki in Japan. As the name indicates (okonomi means favorites in Japanese), you can add desired ingredients in it. The most common ingredient is cabbage, and meat, seafood, corn, and bean sprouts are often used. It’s typically served with okonomiyaki sauce, mayonnaise, and toppings, such as katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes), green onion, pickled red ginger, aonori (dried seaweed powder), tenkasu (tempura crumbs), and so on. In Japan, there are mainly two areas where okonomiyaki is very popular: Osaka and Hiroshima. Okonomiyaki is cooked differently in the two regions. In Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, chopped cabbage is usually cooked on top of thinly spread batter. Also, yakisoba noodles are typically added. In Osaka-style okonomiyaki, chopped cabbage is mixed with the batter and cooked together. It might be easier for beginners to cook Osaka-style okonomiyaki than to cook Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.
TAKOYAKI
Takoyaki is the small, round cousin of okonomiyaki, and like okonomiyaki it originated in Osaka. It’s basically a flavored batter with a tiny piece of octopus (tako) inside, and is a quintessential street food snack. It is made with a batter that has a wheat flour base and is commonly filled with minced octopus, scraps of tempura, green onions, and pickled ginger. It is usually served with a sauce that is similar to Worcestershire sauce and mayonnaise. The creation of Takoyaki dates back to 1935 and its creation is credited to a street vendor named Tomekichi Endo. It quickly became popular in the Kansai region of Japan and then it spread to other areas as well. Today, Takoyaki can be found in many areas of Japan being sold by street vendors, and in specialty restaurants, and it can even be found in supermarkets and convenience stores.
TIPS
• The pointed ends of the chopsticks should be placed on a chopstick rest when the chopsticks are not being used. • Chopsticks should not be crossed on a table, as this symbolizes death, or vertically stuck in the rice, which is done during a funeral.
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KANSAI
UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN
THE WIZARDING WORLD OF
HARRY POTTER STORY JED DOBLE PHOTOGRAPH PROVIDER: UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN
Universal Studios Japan unveiled their much awaited attraction, a land of fantasy and magic, The Wizarding World of Harry Potter
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™ & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry PotterPublishing Rights © JKR. (s14)
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KANSAI 01 Hogwarts ™ Castle 02 Hogwarts ™ Express 03 Honeydukes
™ & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s14)
02
™ & © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s14)
03
A
sia’s version of The Wizarding World of Harry Potter opened in July to long queues and satisfied Harry Potter fans. Biggest favorites were Hogwarts Castle, Hogsmeade Village and the Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ride. Step into the world of Harry Potter and be like him, a student of wizardry. The Hogwarts castle is one of the most
iconic features of The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, inside you can explore the classrooms and corridors of Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, including Dumbledore’s Office and the Defence Against the Dark Arts classroom, where you will feel like you are truly a student of the school like Harry, Hermione and Ron. Moving portraits and the Sorting Hat may speak to you as you journey through the castle.
Not to be missed is the Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey ride, where you will embark on a magical journey through the skies, flying above the Hogwarts grounds with Harry Potter. You can also fly through the skies on the Flight of the Hippogriff ride, a familyfriendly rollercoaster that swoops and dives past Hagrid’s hut. In Hogsmeade Village, where wizards reside, there is an array of shops frequented by students of Hogwarts. The Three Broomsticks, a long-established tavern in Hogsmeade, is favored by teachers and students of Hogwarts. As a student of the wizarding school, your preferred beverage should be one favored by your other wizards. Butterbeer, a popular drink in the wizarding world, is a sweet, non-alcoholic beverage, reminiscent of shortbread and butterscotch, which can be enjoyed by children and adults alike. It is available at the Three Broomsticks and the Hog’s Head. Remember the sweets from the Harry Potter stories? In Honeydukes, you’ll find Bertie Bott’s Every-Flavor Beans and Chocolate Frogs. Step inside Ollivanders, a small, dusty shop, and choose from a full array of wands, or purchase replicas of the Harry Potter film characters’ wands. You can also find unique novelty items in Zonko’s Joke Shop as well as Hogwarts school uniforms and clothing. No attraction would be complete without live music soothing your ears as your day winds down. A choir of Hogwarts students is present on the grounds to serenade you, in tune to familiar wizarding songs, while you plan your next endeavor. A colorful procession of students from Beauxbatons and Durmstrang demonstrate their skill through enchanting performances. For die-hard Harry Potter fans out there, make your way to Universal Studios Japan in Osaka to experience the Wizarding World for yourself.
HARRY POTTER TRAINS
For many, the experience of The Wizarding World of Harry Potter starts even before they get to Universal Studios Japan . A Harry Potter trains run on the JR Sakurajima line. It provides easy access to Universal Studios Japan from Nishikujo Station in Osaka. The train wrap, made by West Japan Railway Company, features images of Hogwarts Castle, as well as the trio of Harry, Hermione, and Ron, the three main characters of Harry Potter film series.
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HANKYU DEPARTMENT STORE >< VENTURE
SHOPPERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S
PARADISE The first railway-terminal department store in the world, Hankyu Umeda Main Store has been overwhelmingly popular due to their lineup of the latest fashion and luxury brands.
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HANKYU DEPARTMENT STORE >< VENTURE
E
stablished in 1929, the Hankyu Umeda Main Store reopened in 2012 after an extensive seven-year rebuilding project. One of Japan’s largest department stores, their flagship store is a hub for sophisticated fashion and lifestyle trends. With accessories, domestic and overseas delicacies, a plethora of miscellaneous items, artwork and household articles as well brought in from all over the globe, the whole building is filled with the joys of shopping, filling over 80,000 square meters of retail space. With events held on each floor almost every day, Hankyu Umeda Main Store is like an “arena” packed with thrilling experiences. Hankyu caters very well to their foreign customers as reflected through their Foreign Customer Services department. They provide services such as Tax Refund, Free Hotel Delivery where you can have your purchases delivered to the front desk of selected hotels and Overseas Delivery Service is also available with additonal charges. Be sure to visit their Foreign Customer Service Counter where they can make your shopping more comfortable and go more smoothly with support for tax refund procedures, foreign currency exchange, as well as guidance in English, Chinese and Korean translation. There are also free wifi services, free delivery service for selected hotels and overseas delivery (with additional charges) all provided on the 1st basement floor at Hankyu Umeda Main Store. At Hankyu Department Store, shoppers can enjoy the best of shopping from around the world.
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HANKYU DEPARTMENT STORE >< VENTURE D.EDIT A special section at Hankyu Department Store is D.EDIT. Here, a curated list of specialty clothing brands are displayed. The most stylish and most famous fashion brands from all over the fashion world are brought together in one area for customers to shop from. Brands include: Helmut Lang, Sacai, Marni Edition and Isabel Marant.
TANEYA MOCHI Mochi is a traditional Japanese rice cake made from a short-grain glutinous rice variety. The cooked rice is pounded into a paste using a mortar and pestle and is molded into various shapes. There are numerous ways of enjoying mochi, it can be eaten sweet or savory with many different flavors and fillings commonly added. A new way of eating mochi was
recently introduced by Taneya Mochi. Partnering with Monte Vibiano Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the mochi is drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and eaten with some grains of salt. The olive oil gives an added fragrant aroma and flavor to the otherwise common taste of the mochi. A new and exciting way to savor a traditional rice cake.
HANKYU MENS (OSAKA & TOKYO) The largest specialty store of men’s fashion in Japan, Hankyu Men’s Osaka has a sales area of approximately 16,000 square meters, Men’s Store features a wide selection of shops including signature designers and trendiest fashion. Hankyu Men’s Tokyo has everything from the world’s big-name brands to labels by Japanese designers on offer. They are the only specialty men’s fashion store in Ginza, Tokyo and Yurakucho neighborhood. 72 | September 2014
KANSAI
A PLACE
TO REST D YOUR HEAD One cannot travel around Kansai and not be enticed to visit its many beautiful cities. Typical itineraries will always include Osaka and Kyoto. Check out a few of our hotel recommendations around Kansai.
uring my few trips to Japan, I had tried to maximize my time by seeing as many sights and attractions as I could. Up early in the morning, a quick and nourishing breakfast, and I was off! My main concern was location when I decided on hotels to stay. My best bets were always on hotels near train stations, since I would be out all day anyways. Plus I love food at train stations, but that’s another story. Here are a few of my favorites during this trip.
HIRASHIN RYOKAN KYOTO
During your visit to Kyoto, it is a must to stay at a ryokan. A ryokan is a type of traditional Japanese inn that originated in the Edo period, when such inns served travelers along Japan’s highways. They usually feature tatamimatted rooms, communal baths, and other public areas where visitors may wear yukata and converse with other travelers and the inn’s owner. Located in the heart of Kyoto, Hirashin Ryokan is very near to the Kyoto Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, Rokkakudo Temple, Nishiki Market and many popular historical and cultural sites. With its convenient location, it is the best place to stay at in Kyoto. They offer 27 guest rooms, with traditional tatami mats which give you a taste of ancient Japan. Run by the fifth generation owner, the property has been in the family for 148 years. Its original wooden structure was destroyed and a new building put in its place. Takeo Endo, son of the fifth generation owner, Toshio Endo, tells us that more foreigners visit and stay in Hirasin. Being one of the oldest ryokans in Kyoto, Hirashin was bestowed a citation as a heritage business, being over 100 years old by the Kyoto prefecture government.
HIRASHIN RYOKAN KYOTO Takakura-nishi-iru Takoyakushi-dori Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto Japan 604-8141 +81 75 221 0121 www.hirashin.co.jp/e
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KANSAI hotel AGORA REGENCY SAKAI
The AGORA Regency Sakai is an urban hotel that satisfies your taste for refinement and style. Designed for mature and sophisticated customers, one can enjoy refinements that extend to every aspect of the property. It is perfect for tourists and business travelers because of its convenient location and also serves as a town square for nearby residents. Its top-quality hospitality and service is worthy of any discerning traveler. Its west-facing rooms overlook Osaka Bay, with the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge and Awaji Island at the distance, while east-facing rooms offer views of the historic Sakai cityscape, ancient burial mounds and the KongoIkoma mountain range beyond. This property is a great base to see the beautiful and interesting sites around Sakai.
HEARTON HOTEL SHINSAIBASHI
This is the first hotel in the Hearton Hotel Group, a Japanese hotel chain with branches in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Atami. Their Shinsaibashi hotel has an excellent location in Osaka, with easy access to transport leading to many locations in the city. Set in the bustling Shinsaibashi neighborhood and very near Namba, both of which are known for the many things you can do there, including shopping, dining and entertainment. The Hearton is just minutes away from these tourist hotspots as well as train stations. A modern business hotel with everything you would need for both business and leisure travel. The rooms are comfortable
hotel AGORA Regency Sakai 4-45-1 Ebisujima-cho Sakai-ku, Sakai Osaka 590-0985 Japan +81 72 224 1121 www.agoraregency-sakai.com
and free wifi is available at the lobby. One of the main shopping spots of Osaka and the main road in front of the hotel boasts some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top brands, which we are sure everyone will enjoy.
HEARTON HOTEL SHINSAIBASHI 1-5-24 Nishi Shinsaibashi Chuo-Ku Osaka 542-0086 Japan +81 66251 3711 www.hearton.co.jp
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KANSAI
CONCIERGE
KANSAI T
he Kansai region or the Kinki region lies in the southern-central region of Japan’s main island Honshu. The region includes the prefectures of Mie, Nara, Wakayama, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, and Shiga. The urban region of Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto is the second most populated area in Japan after Greater Tokyo. The Kansai region is a wonderful destination for any tourist. The area has the best of both worlds. From the modern streets and neon lights of Osaka, to the quaint old-town feel of Kyoto. There is something for everyone.
GETTING THERE BY AIR
International flights are serviced through Kansai International Airport (KIX). The primary domestic airport is Osaka’s Itami Airport (Osaka International Airport although international flights no longer land there). Many major international carriers land in Kansai including Garuda Indonesia, Singapore Airlines, Malaysian Airlines, Cathay Pacific and many more.
BY TRAIN
The Tokaido Shinkansen (bullet train) line from Tokyo serves Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe. The San’yo Shinkansen connects to Okayama, Hiroshima and Hakata.
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GETTING AROUND HANKYU TOURIST PASS
The Hankyu Tourist Pass is an exclusive offer for foreigners traveling in Kansai. It offers unlimited travel on all Hankyu train lines connecting Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe. You can opt for a 1 day pass or 2 day pass and enjoy unlimited trips
on the Hankyu railways. This is perfect for sightseeing around the region. For an additional amount, you can also get a Limousine Bus Ticket from Osaka (Umeda) Station through to Kansai International Airport with the 1 day or 2 day Hankyu Tourist Pass. Tickets must be purchased at Hankyu Tourist Center, OSAKA-UMEDA.
KANSAI WHAT TO DO SAGANO BAMBOO FOREST
The Bamboo Forest in Sagano is an amazingly beautiful natural wonder. Located in Arashiyama, a district on the western outskirts of Kyoto, a nationallydesignated Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty. Sagano was known for its resort villas for the aristocrats in olden days. It is surrounded by low mountains and the Oi River. Take a leisurely stroll through this stunning bamboo forest with the wind flowing through it. You will be enthralled by the tall and majestic bamboo trees which slowly sway with the breeze. The area is also gorgeous in photos and of course, perfect for a selfie.
KNIFE MAKING IN SAKAI
Known for its beauty and traditional industries, the City of Sakai, in the south part of Osaka, is a must-visit area when coming to Kansai. Sakai blades originated in the 5th century, the city gained its fame as a tobacco knife manufacturer during the Edo Period. The Mizuno family started making knives in 1872, presently, fifth generation Jun Mizuno manages and creates knives from their small factory in Sakai. Each knife is carefully fashioned out from a steel block. It is fired and pounded many times and may take one month to finish.
BICYCLE MUSEUM
There are a lot of ancient tombs in Sakai, the reason that Sakai is known as the Bicycle City is actually related to this. Iron processing technology was needed to construct these ancient tombs. Skilled craftsmen developed ways to produce cutlery and knives. These craftsmen turned to gun production in the 16th century. Bicycle making evolved from the gun-making. In the Meiji Era, when imported bicycles were coming in from Europe, the gun craftsmen turned their skills to bicycle repair and later on bicycle making. See the wonderful world of bicycles at the Bicycle Museum Cycle Center in Sakai City. Run by the Shimano Foundation, you will see hundreds of bicycles plus one of a kind samples, including a bicycle which the present Emperor rode 77 | September 2014
GEAR GUIDE
TRAVEL
ESSENTIALS STORY KYLE GREGORIO
Ready for your adventure? Be sure to bring these essentials that are not only practical but also plush and contemporary. AMERICAN TOURISTER VIVOLITE
Vivolite is American Touristerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strongest and lightest hard side suitcase. With its modern and contemporary design, Vivolite luggage not only looks good but is also strong and functional. Using PressPro technology the shell is light, strong and the first of its kind for American Tourister. Whether traveling for business or
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pleasure, the one thing you definitely need is something to hold your belongings in. A luggage. Showcasing American Touristerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s continuous innovation and dedication to challenging luggage-making conventions, the newest Vivolite collection is poised to exceed expectations with its latest ultralightweight yet strong material infused in
its sturdy outer shell. All American Tourister luggages undergo extremely stringent and rigorous quality tests on a continuous basis to ensure that they are in line with the tough guidelines set by the company. www.americantourister.co.id
GEAR GUIDE
TORTUE MULTIPLE TIME ZONE
With its striking design and high legibility, the Tortue multiple time zone watch provides a large amount of time information and a level of ease of use that will greatly appeal to world travellers. Their priority is to see the time in the place they are going without losing track of the time at their starting point and, above all, to be able to read this information without performing a tortuous series of operations. Combining the simple lines of its tortoise-shaped case, available in pink or white gold and a version set with diamonds, with the clarity of an elaborate dial on several levels, the Tortue multiple time zone watch is an imposing timepiece that discreetly shows its interesting sophistication. What is immediately striking however, are its fluid lines, its signature codes so dear to Cartier such as the facetted sapphire on the winding crown, the engraved multi-level dial and the finely cut-out, blue lacquered centerpiece representing a part of the world map. This delicate decoration seems like an invitation to travel and even less experienced watch connoisseurs can see from a distance that this instrument for keeping time is ultimately intended for world travellers. www.cartier.com/collections/timepieces/mens-watches/tortue
SONY CYBER-SHOT RX100 III
The sleek all-in-one Cyber-shot RX100 III is a premium compact camera that features the large-aperture ZEISS lens with 24mm wide-angle and a high-resolution viewfinder. The advanced lens expands your range of expression with the enhanced perspective of a wide 24mm focal length, 70mm lens with bright F2.8 telephoto shooting, allowing you to produce outstanding close-up performance as well as produce beautiful portraits with stunning background defocusing. The ZEISS optics ensure superb edge-to-edge depiction, while a ZEISS T coating reduces flare and ghosting, aspherical lens elements reduce aberrations as well as lens size, and a built-in 1/8 ND filter expands shooting freedom in bright scenes. You are able to see more detail with a larger 20.1 effective MP 1.0type Exmor R CMOS sensor and BIONZ X image processing engine that ensure bright, high-definition details and textures in all your photos and videos. Get four times better light capture with a back-illuminated sensor and three times more processing power. With seamless built-in Wi-Fi and NFC capabilities, simply touch your RX100 III to instantly transfer a photo or movie to your Android smartphone or tablet. Alternatively, activate Smart Remote Embedded to enable remote control of the camera from a mobile device. www.sony.co.id 79 | September 2014
STAYCATION
THE ALAYA UBUD Ubud is an area that has fully embraced tourism yet still maintains the traditional roots of a bygone era. The Alaya Hotel is a marriage of both, embracing the demands of Hospitality and Tradition.
T
here are times when I just shoot the moon and choose a hotel based on location. After all, we see the hotel room only twice a day most of the time, when you get up in the morning and when you come back at night. The downside to most of these hotels is the fact that there can be a trade off. A good location normally means it is either pricy or lousy. Then there is The Alaya in Ubud… the exception to the rule.
THE LOCATION
The Alaya located in the heart of Ubud, a ten minute walk from the Monkey Forest and just a stones’ throw away from the Yoga Barn, I can literally throw a stone from my room and hit somebody from the Yoga Barn. I have stayed in the remote parts of Ubud before and as beautiful as it was, I hated relying on a taxi or even going around using a car, as you have to contend with parking. Walking, for the most part, is the ideal mode of transportation, unless you plan to go further up to Blanco’s Museum and other attractions.
THE VIEW
A small working rice paddy sits aside the resort, and all rooms’ balconies face out to it, giving a countryside air to this central hotel.
THE SERVICE
Bali in itself is a service-oriented region. It is not uncommon to receive a welcome drink of fresh juice and a wet towel to mark the start of an incredible stay. 80 | September 2014
STAYCATION
The staff was accommodating and helpful with all of my requests, like an extra adapter for my phone and laptop. I loved this personal touch. No standing in front of a big impersonal check-in desk. It felt like I just arrived at my friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s luscious living room.
THE ROOMS
Upon entering, I was taken aback by the chic open bathroom (meaning, it had no doors) on the left, while a spacious built-in closet is on the right. Ahead, a heavenly bed and a desk area sit in front of floor to ceiling glass doors leading out to a private terrace.
THE DALA SPA
After experiencing so many treatments over the years from spas in Bali and other places in Indonesia and felt rather disappointed and wanting more so I was a bit apprehensive booking for a treatment during my stay. But I still wanted to see what made this Spa win their accolades. First of all, the spa is spotless clean and the way I was treated rendered me
speechless. It is indeed a luxury spa. For the level of service, the value is incredible. For the price in Bali, it might seem expensive but the value is well worth it. Overall, my stay was not what I expected but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good thing. In fact, I was so pleasantly surprised that this would be my hotel of choice each time I visit Ubud.
Tip: Because of the long,
skinny layout of the hotel, the rooms furthest from the reception provide the most peace and isolation from the road. However, they are also a decent walk from the reception and the restaurant. It would be advisable to decide on your preference, a closer walk to the lobby or a more peaceful area of the hotel.
81 | September 2014
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WILD ABOUT TRAVEL
AS THE SUN SETS Notre Dame, Paris
PHOTOGRAPH BY DEXTER PASTOUR
GUARDIANS OF THE CITY GARGOYLES AT NOTRE DAME Notre Dame, Paris
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE CHEN
84 | September 2014
WILD ABOUT TRAVEL
THE OTHER SIDE Notre Dame, Paris
PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE CHEN
85 | September 2014
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