Boulevard Magazine Victoria, 2024 ISSUE 4

Page 1


VICTORIA LIFE AT ITS FINEST

VICTORIA LIFE AT ITS FINEST

OLD WORLD CHARM

exhale

ROAD TRIP SURVIVAL

Bringing Europe’s culinary culture back home BRIGHT AND LUXURIOUS Homey elegance meets beach-house vibe

building design, interior design & landscape design

Designing with two-tone or tri-tone cabinetry not only adds interest and depth to any size kitchen, it also allows for an individualized expression of style. While the all-wood kitchen look may be frowned upon by many designers, it has made a comeback in multi-tonal designs. This tri-toned kitchen uses black painted wall cabinets, maple-stained island, and natural white oak open shelving and range hood detail. A beautifully unique space that won't go out of style.

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Outdoor living has evolved from a passing trend to a lifestyle embraced by homeowners globally. At the heart of this lifestyle is the outdoor kitchen—a welcoming and practical space that combines cooking, dining, and entertaining in the beauty of nature. More than just visually appealing, an outdoor kitchen offers numerous benefits that enhance the homeowner's lifestyle and increase property value.

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Expanding Living Space

An outdoor kitchen extends your living area beyond the home’s interior, providing a versatile space for cooking, dining, and socializing. Whether hosting a casual family dinner, a lively barbecue with friends, or a romantic evening under the stars, an outdoor kitchen offers countless opportunities for al fresco enjoyment, seamlessly integrating with your indoor living space.

Increasing Property Value

An outdoor kitchen is a sought-after feature that significantly boosts property value. In today’s real estate market, homebuyers are willing to pay a premium for homes with outdoor living spaces, including fully equipped kitchens.

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On the Cover
Photo by Tony Colangelo
Dining area of a home built by GT Mann, and featuring the work of Hoyt Design Co. and interior designer Kimberly Lewis-Manning.

contributors

ANGELA M. COWAN WRITER

INHABITING LANDSCAPES

PAGE 94

KIM GRAY WRITER

KEEPERS OF THE LAND PAGE 30

LAUREN KRAMER

WRITER

PACK A SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE

PAGE 86

“I admittedly had reservations about embarking on a nine-day road trip with two young children—their first time being more than a few hours from home!— but then that wondrous thing happened: we saw everything through their eyes, and became infused with their excitement at seeing the big skies, the endless fields, the prairie grasses, even the magpies! Travel became magical in an entirely new way as I watched my kids marvel at it all.”

Angela M. Cowan is a freelance writer, developmental editor and writing coach who contributes regularly to magazines throughout BC and works with writers of all skill and experience levels. Find her at angelamcowan.com.

“I still dream of my time observing spirit bears and humpback whales with guides at Spirit Bear Lodge, located in Klemtu on BC’s central coast and owned by the Kitasoo Xai’xais First Nation. Experiences like this are transformative and can deepen your sense of country—plus, you can count on making incredible friends along the way.” A travel writer and fellow at the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, Kim publishes the Canadian travel blog “Toque & Canoe” and, over the last decade, she has been advocating for all Canadians to support Indigenous tourism in Canada.

BOULEVARD GROUP Mario Gedicke PUBLISHER 250.891.5627

info@blvdmag.ca

MANAGING EDITOR Susan Lundy

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lia Crowe

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lily Chan

DESIGN Nel Pallay

Tammy Robinson

Maria Lobano va Crea Zhang

ADVERTISING Mario Gedicke

Vicki Clark

CONTRIBUTING Angela M. Cowan WRITERS Lia Crowe

Kim Gray

Lauren Kramer

Janice Louise

Susan Lundy

Kaisha Scofield

Ellie Shortt

Chloe Sjuberg

Tess van Straaten

ILLUSTRATION Sierra Lundy

CONTRIBUTING Tony Colangelo

PHOTOGRAPHERS Lia Crowe

Joshua La wrence

Spartan Media Group

Lance Sullivan

CIRCULATION & Marilou Pasion DISTRIBUTION 604.542.7411

“I loved exploring the nooks and crannies of Puerto Rico, an island filled with history, vibrant culture and its own unique identity as an American territory. My favorite part of the trip was visiting El Yunque National Rainforest, a mass of green jungle filled with incredible biodiversity and literally buzzing with life.” An award-winning writer based in Richmond, Lauren feels privileged to write about fascinating individuals and magnificent travel destinations. Born in Cape Town, she has pursued her passion for travel writing for the past 27 years—but has much more to explore and discover.

2024 ISSUE 4 Victoria Boulevard® is a registered trademark of Black Press Group Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Ideas and opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily reflect the views of Black Press Group Ltd. or its affiliates; no official endorsement should be inferred. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents, both implied or assumed, of any advertisement in this publication. Printed in Canada. Canada Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #42109519.

Tel: 250.381.3484 Fax: 250.386.2624 info@blvdmag.ca boulevardmagazines.com

With a theme built around travel in this edition of Boulevard, there are many stories I could tell. But here’s a road-trip tale from years ago, when my daughters were in their teens. It offers a little travel lesson—something about going in the right direction, despite the obstacles, as you navigate life’s freeways.

In my years on the road of sports parenting, my daughters’ soccer team tryouts usually took place in Victoria or Nanaimo—an easy ferry ride from our home on Salt Spring Island. But occasionally, we had to pack up the soccer bags and head into the maze of Vancouver for tryouts at various soccer fields, usually located in the most obscure places. On this weekend we were heading to Burnaby, where Sierra’s soccer tryout was set for 6 pm on Friday, and Danica’s started at 8 pm the following evening. Sierra also had a game in Burnaby on Sunday.

It would be a mom-and-daughters bonding time: we’d explore the city and I’d take them to my favourite sushi spot. But Danica was 15 and when something very important came up at home, I agreed to take Sierra into Vancouver first and then drive back to Tsawwassen Saturday morning to pick up Danica.

Things didn’t start out well. The 1 pm ferry was overloaded, pushing Sierra and me onto the 3 pm ferry and launching a mad drive through rush-hour traffic on the other side. These were the days before GPS and Siri, so, of course, I got lost (16th Street is not the same as 16th Avenue). We made it to the field, but we were 20 minutes late. Later, to get to the hotel, I pulled out my pre-Google-era MapQuest directions; however, the roads didn’t match the directions, and I became particularly confounded by an intersection that said Cariboo Road on all four street signs. Eventually, we merged onto the freeway—but in the wrong direction. I took the first exit, drove for a block or two and by making a few random turns, I landed right back at the field.

Day two. We wove through traffic—stress building as a light snowfall started— to my favourite sushi restaurant, parked, got the goods, placed the bag and my wallet on the hood of the car, while I unlocked the car doors. I grabbed the sushi but left the wallet on the hood, a fact I didn’t discover until I had driven all around Richmond looking for a mall where Sierra could purchase a new sweatshirt. I finally found a mall, but no parking. I found a second mall and parking, but quickly discovered I had no wallet.

the

right

way on the freeway

As we drove back onto the highway, I tried to figure out how we’d get home without a credit card, debit card, cash or ID. Now waiting to pick up Danica at the Tsawwassen ferry terminal, the snow continued to fall as I cancelled my credit card. I collected Danica and made it back to Burnaby, navigating the slow-moving, snow-wary traffic, which turned out to be much heavier than usual as thousands of people headed downtown for a Rolling Stones concert. My angst grew as I considered the pending drive in the snow from our hotel to Danica’s tryout in North Van.

Once at the hotel, I called our home voicemail—and there it was! Mr. Shen had my wallet. I loved Mr. Shen. Unfortunately, he lived in the bowels of downtown Vancouver, and I didn’t have time before the tryout to drive all the way back there. But never mind, five minutes before Danica and I left for North Van, her tryout was cancelled due to the snow. Five minutes later, Sierra’s Sunday game was cancelled.

Not wanting to get stuck by the snowfall in Vancouver, we decided to pack up and dash back to Tsawwassen for the late ferry home and pick up my wallet en route.

Back on Salt Spring, now shortly after 11 pm, we arrived home to discover the power was out. I found a few random candles, started a fire in the wood stove and the three of us cuddled into bed under four blankets.

“I’m sorry it was such a disastrous weekend,” I murmured as we started to fall asleep.

“I had fun,” whispered Sierra. “And I’ll never forget it.”

The lesson? Despite it all, I discovered saints like Mr. Shen still exist and, ultimately, we created some memories and spent a weekend together. We were going the right way on the freeway.

Susan Lundy is a former journalist who now works as an editor, author and freelance writer. Her latest book on humour columns, Home on the Strange, was published in 2021 via Heritage House Publishing.

design notes

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life.style.etc.

WHERE WERE YOU BORN AND WHERE DID YOU GROW UP?

I was born in Kitsilano, Vancouver, and ultimately settled in Victoria in 2006.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER PATH?

I decided to pursue a career in real estate sales shortly after my third son was born. He is 25 today.

WHAT IS THE ONE ASPECT OF YOUR WORK THAT REALLY GETS YOU FIRED UP?

It’s never the house; and it’s always the people. I love listening to understand, and then crafting a strategic plan to achieve the goals. I have a competitive spirit with an empathetic heart and a drive for my clients’ success. Also, my fountain of youth: I began teaching fitness in my early 20s “by accident” and fell in love. I was later recognized as one of Canada’s top instructors, selected to be a fitness assessor for Les Mills International and a team leader in Victoria. I love my fitness family.

WHAT ARE YOU PASSIONATE ABOUT OUTSIDE OF WORK?

I love to plan and host get-togethers for local women of all ages with a goal of facilitating a community of sisterhood. Also: serving on the BC Cancer Advisory Council and VREB Community Relations Committee, as well as a local business advisory panel.

WHAT FILLS MY CUP:

Time with family and friends 100 per cent of the time.

HOBBIES:

Road cycling, a renovation project, thrifting, board games, travel.

WHAT’S THE BEST LIFE LESSON YOU’VE LEARNED IN THE LAST FIVE YEARS?

This is a threefold answer. In life: confidence is a discipline which grows roots through practice based on intention, focus and commitment. We are our own masters of confidence. In fashion: whether new or pre-used, buy quality. In menopause: linen, silk and natural fibres are game-changers.

WHICH OF YOUR INNATE QUALITIES OR DAILY PRACTICES HAS LED TO YOUR SUCCESS?

I’m an eternal optimist, believing in goodness and magic. I have a relentless work ethic driven by a passion to make a difference. I aim to laugh out loud daily.

WHAT IS GOOD STYLE TO YOU?

Clean lines, monotone palette. I like to mix masculine and feminine elements: a necktie with a strand of pearls; French cuffs and cuff links with floral tie.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?

Classic elegance with a hint of fun.

FASHION & BEAUTY

Uniform: Simple and fast. My wardrobe is 99 per cent black. I have a basic skincare and makeup routine: nude matte lip, waterproof mascara, tinted moisturizer and sunscreen.

All-time favourite piece: My black On the Go handbag.

Favourite shoes: Multi-tone mules by Lodi Love, from Hughes Shoes.

New addition: Adult luggage, lol. I ditched the cheap and unreliable and replaced with a two-piece set by Briggs and Riley from Adventure Clothing on Yates. Game-changer!

Most important work tool: My ears! Second to that is my car. It is my backup office, closet, kitchen and moving truck all in one. When a client requests driving together, I immediately start calculating how I will make it happen without too much awkward shuffling, lol.

Favourite jewellery piece: I was gifted a tennis bracelet, which I promptly went to return.

The jeweller suggested I keep it and wear it every day. I did, and use it as a reminder to view every day as a special occasion.

Fashion obsession: Tina Martel: Not_In_The_Pink_ on instagram.

She is outrageously fabulous!

Closet confession: My closet is a mix of new, pre-used and hand-me-downs from my sister (who loves to shop).

Scent: Day: Tenue De Soiree by Annick Goutal. Evening: Eau Du Soir by Sisley. Favourite fashion designer: Randi Barry, Max Mara and Vintage Chanel.

Favourite musician: Mitchell Hahn of OK Charlie band—a Victoria local (and my son). Film that you just love the style of: Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Cinderella’s ball gown.

Best wine to date: Organic Dingač Reserva Barrique 2012 by Matusko Winery, from Peljesac, Croatia.

Favourite flower: Hand-picked wild daffodils and forget-menots.

One thing that consistently lifts your spirits during hard times: A bike ride into the hills with my husband, or a workout with my gym-sisters.

First Hollywood crush: Steve Martin.

Favourite treat: Chocolate cake from Mon Petit Treat. Gluten-free perfection.

Shop online or in store: I’m not an online shopper. I need to see it, touch it and try before I buy.

READING MATERIAL:

Favourite book: Talent is Never Enough by John C. Maxwell.

Favourite magazine: Boulevard and vintage Vogue Book currently reading: Never Enough: From Barista to Billionaire by Andrew Wilkinson

Reap the vacation benefits without the post-holiday remorse

WORDS KAISHA SCOFIELD

Vacations are the best; lounging poolside, getting a sunburn, going for long walks on cobblestones in flip-flops, sleeping in hammocks, eating your weight in queso, only hydrating with coffee and margaritas, and watching your body slowly slip into sloth mode. What happens on vacation stays on vacation, right? Well, not exactly.

Have you ever lapsed into vacation mode, maybe indulging in some of the activities listed above, only to find that after a while, maybe even during your vacation, you start to feel an unrelenting sense of grogginess, digestive upset, fatigue, stiffness and kind of overall grossness? This is because even though your mind wants full vacation mode, your body might be resistant to the daily diet of lounging, sunburns, beer and poolside nachos.

Of course, vacations are about de-stressing. It’s extra important to fully kick back and cut loose, but maybe there is room for a bit of balance, some planning and a splash of movement, so you can still engage in holiday mode while also looking after your energy levels, digestive health and mobility gains.

This means practicing some self-care and compassion, taking some reality checks and making preparations to assess how you can balance your pre/mid/post-holiday self and avoid the after-holiday remorse.

Self-care and compassion are about ensuring that you aren’t holding your breath throughout the year and only exhaling during your brief scheduled holiday. We need breaks and mini-indulgences throughout the year.

When we ball up all our stress, holding out for that sliver of vacation peace, it makes the relaxation time so urgent that we risk starting the vacation at a near frenzied state. Taking care of stress throughout the year, in whatever form feels available, allows for a fuller appreciation of the longer-scheduled vacations. In the meantime, mini vacations can be as small as scheduling in a peaceful walk every day or planning a trip to the beach a couple of times per month.

Holiday prep times can be a great opportunity for reality checks. For example, we can fall into some tricky behaviours as we get ready to vacation, like problematic eating patterns. Many people will restrict their eating habits in order to try and achieve a holiday ready look, only to overdo it once they hit the poolside buffet. This behaviour can be problematic, especially when the return home means regret and self-judgment, often leading to continued restricted eating patterns. This is a tough cycle to get into and requires a considerable amount of compassion and self-awareness.

There is, however, an easy way to avoid this cycle that creates a freedom to enjoy holiday indulgences without a sense of disorder. The first step is to check in when things feel out of control and simply acknowledge times when eating certain foods and, with compassion, remind yourself that being out of control doesn’t feel very good.

Sometimes reactions to overindulgence can come from a feeling of over-restriction. An example of this would be only allowing yourself to eat in a carefree way during holiday time, thus limiting your ability to fully enjoy your food to this short

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By balancing your relaxation and recharging with intentional self-care, dietary compassion and preparation, alongside some supportive movement, your holiday experience will deepen, and you can reap the vacation benefits long after the holiday has ended.

window. This sense of urgent indulgence is removed when food freedom is permitted.

This may feel like an invitation to go overboard with food but for most people, simply giving themselves permission to access all foods removes the impulse to overindulge in any of them. It also allows us to be honest about how these foods or potential overindulgence of them makes us feel. As an example, once you allow yourself to eat an entire plate of nachos or drink seven margaritas, regardless of whether or not you’re on vacation, you realize quite quickly that it actually feels pretty gross.

Acknowledging and preparing for these occurrences is the easiest way to ensure you support your mental, physical and digestive health while travelling and beyond. If you know you have an exciting culinary experience planned, be sure to follow your satiety signals throughout the meal and avoid overeating, but also include foods that aid in digestion, like vegetables. Starting your meal with a small leafy side salad and vinaigrette will aid in the digestion of larger or richer meals.

Commit to eating as many fruits and vegetables as possible throughout your holiday to ensure you are getting adequate fibre and nutrient density. This will help to fill you up and to combat richer or less nutritionally optimal meals. Keep yourself armed with healthy snacks and try not to skip meals to keep your blood sugars balanced. Importantly, be sure to stay hydrated throughout the day. Yes, this means more pee breaks but it also means more energy, less brain fog and better digestion.

Exercising while on holiday may not sound appealing, but it can be an excellent way to keep your mind and body supported, making adventurous activities more accessible while limiting the post-holiday blahs. Something as simple as five sun salutations first thing in the morning or a 15- to 30-minute walk on a hotel treadmill (in supportive shoes) can make all the difference to your physical comfort.

You may even want to add some physical adventuring into your itinerary, like mountain biking, scuba diving, or hiking. Keeping the body active will promote further relaxation, create energy and reduce daily aches and pains.

Vacations are an excellent way to promote relaxation and recharge your energy, all while offering a refreshing pause to the daily grind. But when holiday activities and indulgences become problematic, it can leave you strung out and even have you returning home in worse shape than when you left. By balancing your relaxation and recharging with intentional self-care, dietary compassion and preparation, alongside some supportive movement, your holiday experience will deepen, and you can reap the vacation benefits long after the holiday has ended.

Ola: life and health; Kino: body
The state of health and wellbeing.

A culinary retreat

Connecting to nature is the new luxury

WORDS + PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE

immo Bay is one of those places that inspires the saying, “those who know, know.” Either you are not aware of its existence, or you are one of “those who know,” those who have heard of this legendary eco-wilderness resort that has a reputation for unrivalled guest experiences set in the most stunning, remote wilderness location, and dream of visiting one day. I had the pleasure of attending a Savour the Coast Culinary Retreat at Nimmo Bay, and I can attest that some legends do live up to their hype and, in this case, go far beyond.

Pictured: 386 Newport Avenue, Oak Bay, BC

Located on the lower edge of the southern Great Bear Rainforest, Nimmo Bay is only accessible by air or sea. So our entry comes with a big splash in an amphibious aircraft that took off from the Port Hardy airport. The resort comes into view, with its row of red-roofed cabins overlooking the bay and backed by complete wilderness, and soon, we are warmly greeted by Nimmo Bay staff on the main dock.

We are a mixed group of people who love the outdoors and, even more than that, love to eat. In this day and age, qualities such as sustainable, local, wild and seasonal play a part in the enjoyment of food, and we have come to the best place for this. Nimmo Bay is intimately rooted in a sense of place, and the resort’s culinary offerings incorporate wild-foraged ingredients, such as nodding onions, spruce tips, seaweeds pulled from the surrounding waters, and a bounty of fresh-caught seafood. For the Savour the Coast retreat, Nimmo Bay has brought in chef Benjamin Wood and guide Lorie Penton from Newfoundland’s Fogo Island Inn; and the owners of Bella Wines in Naramata (whose wines we will soon be drinking).

Once relaxing in my cabin, I review the retreat itinerary, which includes a forest forage walk, an ocean snorkelling and seaweed tour, and most importantly, many culinary experiences.

On the first day, our small group is guided by Irvin Speck, a Hereditary Chief and guardian of nearby Hopetown, a village of the Gwawa’enuxw First Nation. Along with Lorie and Nimmo Bay guide Damien Janney, we are led through a rainforest trail where we learn what plants are traditionally foraged—and start tasting them. Lorie cuts down a liquorice fern and hands out samples of its inner core, which really does taste just like liquorice!

Irvin punctures a bulbous spot on a balsam fir tree, and as gooey sap starts to run out, he talks about all the ways this sap is used in Indigenous medicinal practices. I ask if it can help with some bothersome eczema on my hand. He gives me a dollop to spread on and I’m shocked to feel the inflammation immediately go down.

As we emerge at the far end of the trail, we are met by a boat that brings us towards what looks like a floating dock with a large canvas tent on it. As we get closer, sounds of delight and awe ensue from our group as the Nimmo Bay culinary team has prepared a beautiful lunch of warm, brothy, Asian-flavoured noodle soup in the tent.

As our trip progresses, it becomes clear that dining at Nimmo Bay is an adventure. Not only is the food crafted from the freshest, most thoughtfully curated ingredients, but it is also experienced in numerous wild places outside of the resort.

That evening, back at the resort, we are treated to a scavenger hunt of appetizers.

On day two, we head out on the boat again, and Nimmo Bay staff pull up traps full of spot prawns and crabs. We watch a black bear ambling along the shoreline, and visit the Indigenous village of Hopetown, guided again by Irvin.

After a richly fulfilling morning on the boat, we glide toward a little beach, only to find a barbeque lunch and a long table set beautifully in the forest beyond. Again, every morsel of food is delightful, including a panzanella salad with roasted vegetables and fresh basil.

That evening, back at the resort, the morning’s freshly caught prawns are skewered on long sticks for us to roast ourselves over an open fire on the main dock, and immediately devour.

I have always found life underwater to be a magical sanctuary, so

our snorkelling excursion on day three was something I was eagerly awaiting. Guided by sustainable seaweed harvester and expert (and mermaid) Amanda Swinimer, we suit up in wetsuits, masks and snorkels and follow the flick of her fins into the depths. The strong current sweeps us along a fantastical journey of iridescent kelps and curly seaweeds that she taught us about ahead of our plunge.

When finally surfacing from the dream depths, we find the mother ship waiting to bring us back aboard and quickly ferry us to a small island. Shivering in my wetsuit, I see on this little island a fire on the rocks waiting to warm us up. Once stripped of my neoprene and beginning to warm up, I follow a little pathway that reveals a circle of chairs and blankets set up for us. Cups of warm soup and a beautiful lunch are handed out to each of us, tucked like babies into our blankets. This is the ultimate wilderness experience, but with all the luxuries possible, and more than I could have even imagined, at our fingertips.

Back at Nimmo, we replay the day’s events in the outdoor hot tubs situated adjacent to a steep waterfall that cuts right through the resort, providing water, hydro power and, in our case, a refreshing and powerful shower in between soaks in the hot tub.

The conversation turns toward marveling at the experience of the resort itself.

“Every time I come back to our cabin, it seems like it has been

tidied. My swimsuit that I left on the floor has been hung up, a shirt that I left flung on the bed has been folded and put in a drawer, and yet I never see anyone! The staff are like magical fairies!”

Our last night at the resort is bittersweet. Our group, now bonded by deeply soulful and wildly adventurous experiences, will soon have to part ways, but we are also sitting down to what will be the most memorable meal of my lifetime.

Nimmo Bay Chef Rob Boland and guest chef Benjamin Wood have pulled out all the stops for our final tasting menu. It starts with a rockfish ceviche in rhubarb tiger’s milk with chive flowers, a tempura shiso leaf, albacore tuna belly, kaboza aioli, and sesame-breaded salsify flavoured with orange and marjoram, paired with a 2022 sparkling Muscat from Bella Wines. The meal continues with something like 10 or 11 courses, each one more delightful than the last, eliciting oohs and ahhs from the group and finally outright applause when the chefs emerge from the kitchen.

Among the courses are Dungeness crab with sea urchin, squid ink sopressini pasta with a wild morel “cafe au lait,” chickpea tofu with sea lettuce and spruce tips, and for dessert, a fireweed tea crémeux with wild rose meringue, wildflower honey sorbet, toasted tree pollen and oat crumb. A second dessert is nori in caramel with wild-harvested huckleberry pate de fruits, paired with Bella Wines’ sparkling Chinato.

As our amphibious plane begins to putter out of Nimmo Bay and back to our normal world, we reflect and appreciate that life really doesn’t get better than this. Growing up in Victoria, British Columbia has always been a special place in my heart. This retreat was an incredible opportunity to enjoy some of its magnificent wilderness, and to learn about an Indigenous community and some of its plant wisdom, all with the most exceptional guest experience. The trip will remain a highlight of my whole life, and my taste buds agree.

250-361-2413 | dwayne.dyson@nbpcd.com Austin Louden, B. Sc, Senior Wealth Associate Tel.: 250-361-2483 | austin.louden@nbpcd.com Fiona MacDonald, B.Comm., Senior Client Service Associate Tel.: 250-361-2436 | fiona1.macdonald@nbpcd.com

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Keepers of the Land

Images

BY

PHOTO CAPTIONS BY DEIRDRE LEOWINATA
White plumose anemones, red and green urchins, scallops and multicoloured sponges decorate a boulder topped with kelp in Kitasoo Xai’xais territory. The waters of the BC.coast are some of the richest in the world, hosting an explosive diversity of marine life.
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY

Doug Neasloss is the elected chief councillor of the Kitasoo Xai’xais Nation. Neasloss—the visionary behind the documentary film Keepers of the Land— carries the Xai’xais name Muq’vas Glaw, which means “White Bear.”

I’ve often heard people refer to the remote west coast of Canada as our country’s “Galapagos.”

Now that I’ve travelled here, I can tell you with certainty why this is, and why a visit to the wildlife-rich region can leave you gobsmacked.

I certainly was a few years back when I visited Spirit Bear Lodge, owned by the Kitasoo Xai’xais First Nation, and located in Klemtu on BC’s central coast.

Lodge guides, while generously sharing their culture, introduced me and fellow guests to local wildlife—both by foot in lush, ancient forests (where we observed a spirit bear splashing and fishing in

Tavish Campbell is a cinematographer specializing in the underwater world. He pursued this career as a way to advocate for Canada’s West Coast, with which he has a deep personal connection. He and film co-director Deirdre Leowinata (both make up Moonfish Media) began shooting Keepers of the Land in 2021, spending the majority of the year collecting footage from under and above the water.

a waterfall) and by boat on the ocean (where we had an intimate encounter with a giant humpback whale).

For most people, experiences like this in the natural world are rare. When they do happen, though, individuals are changed by the knowledge that a world so remarkable exists at all. They’re also left wondering about what’s being done to protect this world into the future.

Enter Keepers of the Land, a new, multiple-award-winning documentary co-produced by the Kitasoo Xai’xais Stewardship Authority and Moonfish Media.

Film visionary Douglas Neasloss, also the elected chief councillor

Filmmaker Deirdre Leowinata, with her background in visual communication and ecology, is committed to evocative, evidence-based storytelling. She and her partner Tavish Campbell run Moonfish Media, which is focussed on the world of environmental justice.
Filmmaker
PHOTO:

Hereditary chief Ernest “Charlie” Mason Jr. —a central character in the documentary Keepers of the Land— pilots his herring skiff during the harvest. One of Chief Mason’s hereditary chief names is Nismuutk, meaning “a person who helps, a person who gives.”

PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO

A pacific herring looks out at the rest of his spawning school from within a bed of fucus seaweed. The herring spawn is the first major natural history event of the year, infusing the entire BC coast with an important and abundant source of food for a multitude of species after a long winter.

PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY

The waters of Gitdisdzu Lugyeks (Kitasu Bay) swirl with a milky blue colour during the herring spawn. In 2022, the Kitasoo Xai’xais Nation declared the bay a marine protected area. On April 17, 2024, the area was announced by the Marine Conservation Institute in Athens, Greece as Canada’s first “Blue Park”—a globally recognized example of outstanding marine protection.

PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY

of the Kitasoo Xai’xais Nation, says he dreamed about making a film like Keepers of the Land

His goal with the documentary is to promote his nation’s ap proach to stewardship.

“I wanted to highlight what our little community has done. We punch way above our weight,” says Neasloss, whose Xai’xais name is Muq’vas Glaw, which means “White Bear.”

“I also wanted to highlight the underwater world. The marine environment, which we’ve taken measures to protect, is very im portant to us. We’re an ocean people. We depend on the ocean for food and transportation,” he says.

“Finally, I wanted a film that highlighted the elders talking about our stewardship responsibilities, something future generations would be able to watch. Now, here they are, captured forever.”

During the pandemic, Neasloss connected with Moonfish Me dia’s Deirdre Leowinata and Tavish Campbell about bringing his dream to life in a cinematic way. The pair jumped at the opportu nity for a number of reasons, including Moonfish Media’s focus on environmental justice.

“This film is about a nation on the remote central coast of BC

Klemtu, home to the Kitasoo Xai’xais Nation, is a small community of 350 people located on Swindle Island off the central coast of British Columbia in the Great Bear Rainforest. The documentary “Keepers of the Land” features the community’s impressive efforts to steward their territory for future generations.
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY
Silver, ocean-phase sockeye salmon Kitasoo Xai’xais territory on their return home to spawn. The ecosystems and inhabitants of the Pacific Northwest are heavily reliant on the return of this iconic fish for food.
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY

field technician Vernon

looks up at a towering red cedar. The nation, which is taking the management and protection of its territory into its own hands, is conducting close to 30 research and monitoring programs involving everything from trees and wildlife to language and blue carbon.

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A black bear and its white cousin, the spirit bear, sit by a waterfall in Kitasoo Xai’xais territory searching for returning salmon in a raging river after early fall rains. The white fur of a spirit bear is the result of a recessive colour gene in black bears found exclusively in a small region of the BC coast, making the spirit bear one of the rarest bears in the world.

Kitasoo Xai’xais
Brown
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS STEWARDSHIP AUTHORITY

coming into its power and taking control of its resources after 150 years of oppression and trauma,” says Leowinata. “The conservation policy that the Kitasoo Xai’xais Nation is driving offers solutions that are missing in the conservation world. These are solutions that I want to help uplift.”

Meanwhile, the spectacularly beautiful short documentary—a reassuring and inspiring film in countless ways—continues to win accolades at film festivals everywhere.

“It’s been cool to see us alongside big hitters like National Geographic and the BBC. Our little community!” says Neasloss. “I hope that people around the world will watch Keepers of the Land and see that Indigenous communities like ours can get the job done. We’re not talking about the work. We’re actually doing it.”

A spirit bear holds tight as he feasts on a pink salmon. The fall salmon run is a critical part of the spirit bear’s diet before the animal’s long winter hibernation.
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA/KITASOO XAI’XAIS
AUTHORITY
PHOTO: MOONFISH MEDIA

hot properties

Bright

Homey elegance meets beach-house vibe in Sidney-area home

WORDS ANGELA M. COWAN
PHOTOGRAPHY LANCE SULLIVAN, TONY COLANGELO AND SPARTAN MEDIA GROUP

QUICK FACTS:

Square Feet: 5,960

Bedrooms: 4

Bathrooms: 6

Street-level garage and attached art room

Multi-tiered deck with pool

Overlooking a sparkling expanse of the ocean a few minutes south of Sidney-by-the-Sea sits a breathtaking three-level home that evokes the feeling of a luxurious seaside resort in nearly every facet of its design.

Moving past the street-level garage and attached art studio, a long staircase descends into a sheltered courtyard surround ed by terraced garden beds, creating the perfect hideaway vibe. The home rises up against the seaside backdrop with

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shingle siding, dormer windows and thick columns bracketing the front entrance. The expansive windows reveal what promises to be an utterly spectacular view of the ocean through the back of the house, and even before stepping inside, everything feels breezy and calm and elegant, with abundant light colour tones and gently weathered textures.

“I chose to ground the house in a traditional style, providing it with the staying power it would need to last the test of time,” says interior designer Kimberly Lewis-Manning, adding, “The overall look remained young and current by layering in textures and interesting palettes, while trending details were left for the finishing touches that could easily be swapped out as desired.”

Kim helmed the design process with the homeowners, seamlessly melding classic foundations with fun elements as they collaborated on everything from the overall layout to the finest details.

“Kim was amazing in terms of making everything super functional and beautiful,” says the homeowner. “And GT Mann made it all happen. Graeme and his team did a previous house for us as well—a big renovation—and we had such a great experience with them the first time around that we knew we wanted to work with them again.”

Once inside, the cathedral ceiling, panelled walls up the stairs and exposed balcony ringing the top floor make the front entrance feel grand and spacious, while the deep green of the family office just behind glass doors grounds the eye.

Straight ahead, a grand double arch, accented with tonguein-groove slats, creates the sense of walking through a portal into a serene and welcoming space as you enter the main living area, where the wall-to-wall view is enough to stop anyone in their tracks. Just outside, sandstone porcelain pavers brighten the deck, and a gleaming pool several steps down shimmers with shards of sunlight as a salt breeze flows in from the beach. If the essence of summer

LOCALLY CRAFTED MODERN – TIMELESS

PHOTOS BY TONY COLANGELO
photo: Lia Crowe
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PHOTO BY SPARTAN MEDIA GROUP

could be encapsulated in one place and one moment, it would be here.

But as captivating as the view is, the house itself is a wonder to behold. Subtle visual cues delineate the different spaces, retaining the high-ceilinged and breezy vibe, while keeping it homey. White oak engineered floors are done in a herringbone pattern leading from the front door, under the dining room table and through to the patio, while more traditional horizontal slats lead off into the kitchen and main living areas.

Above, the tongue-in-groove ceiling is accented with exposed beams to create a coffered look over the living room and kitchen, separated by a narrow x-pattern over the table. Tucked around the corner in the living room is what’s been affectionately named the “celebration room,” where the owners can celebrate all life’s great moments together. (Particularly fun in here are the snakeskin-inspired cabinet fronts!)

The kitchen is replete with fantastic details that evoke that elegant beach house feel, and for good reason.

“Our kitchen actually started from a piece of driftwood we found on the beach,” explains the homeowner. “We pulled all our tones and textures from it.”

There’s Venetian plaster on the wall above the stovetop, white oak cabinetry with a gently ridged grain and quartzite countertops done in a leather finish.

Another archway leads off the kitchen into a spacious pantry backed with gorgeous sea-toned subway tiles, and further into a mudroom accented with porcelain floor tiles (installed in herringbone pattern) and tall closets (and the ceiling!) painted in Benjamin Moore’s Wolf Grey. It’s a space that sees daily use from the family, explains the homeowner.

“These tiles are virtually indestructible,” the homeowner adds, with a laugh. “And it’s so nice to be able to have everything tucked away.”

PHOTO BY TONY COLANGELO
“The layout of a home is intentionally planned to work with the way the homeowners want to live their lives. So, flow was made to match the way the family entered, took off outer layers, dropped bags and groceries and then gathered. And of course, we were always moving toward the view as well.”

“The layout of a home is intentionally planned to work with the way the homeowners want to live their lives,” says Kim. “So, flow was made to match the way the family entered, took off outer layers, dropped bags and groceries and then gathered. And of course, we were always moving toward the view as well.”

Upstairs, enormous thought was put into the layout and usability of the space. As the homeowners planned this house to be their forever home, the children’s bedrooms were designed to be adaptable as the family grew older, with large closet spaces and shower en suites to allow for increasing independence as the years go by.

Stepping into the primary suite, it would be easy to mistake the space for that of an exclusive island resort. Huge, panelled windows showcase an unbroken sea of blue, and soak the bedroom in natural light. The en suite boasts a serene soaker tub, and a rainfall shower is glassed in behind another arched doorway. And everywhere it’s bright and smooth and luxurious.

Down on the lowest floor, the media room is set up with a chic integrated bar and extra games table, and just beyond is a separate gym space. The “bunk room” is easily set up for slumber parties or out-of-town guests, and there’s a full bathroom down here as well for convenience. And then down the back hallway to a side door that leads up to the pool deck is what the homeowner refers to jokingly as their “pool house.” The floor is laid with the same porcelain tiles as the upstairs mudroom, a fully tiled bathroom stands ready to wash off sunscreen and sand from the beach, and an extra stacker washer and dryer takes care of all the bathing suits and towels.

Having lived here for nearly two years now, the homeowner says the house has been a dream come true.

“I really love the layout. It works perfectly for our family,” they say. “The collective team was so thoughtful about all the fine details. It has been a truly great experience designing and building with both Graeme and Kim.”

PHOTO BY SPARTAN MEDIA GROUP

CAPTURE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

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Site Acquisition: Dane Kingsbury Real Estate helijet.com | @helijet 1.800.665.4354

SUPPLIER LIST

Designer: Hoyt Design Co.

General Contractor: GT Mann Contracting Ltd.

Interior Designer: Kimberly Lewis-Manning Design

Structural Engineer: Farhill Engineering Ltd.

Environmental: Corvidae Environmental Consulting, Inc.

Site Excavation & Seawall: Don Mann Excavating Ltd.

Plumbing and Gas: Specialized Plumbing & Gasworks Ltd.

Electrical: Citadel Electrical Systems

Cabinetry and Millwork: South Shore Cabinetry Ltd.

Finishing Carpentry: Ground Up Custom Carpentry Ltd.

Home Automation: Wired Up Technologies Inc.

Plumbing Fixtures: Bartle & Gibson Co. Ltd.

Hard Surfaces: Colonial Countertops

Flooring Supply: Percy John Flooring

Tile Supply: Pacific Coast Floors

Tile Install: Mark’s Quality Tiling

Tempered Glass / Exterior Railings / Ornamental Fencing: Royal Oak

Glass Ltd.

Interior Railings: Westshore Welding & Fabricating Ltd.

Lighting: Mclaren Lighting

Appliances: Trail Appliances

Doors: Slegg Building Materials / Calibre Doors & Millwork

Fireplaces: Enviro Fireplaces / InFlame Heating & Mechanical

Exterior Siding Supply: Jain Building Products

Exterior Siding Install: Island Villas

Concrete Finishing and Retaining Walls: Pacific Shore Builders

Hardscaping: Alliston Stoneworks

Landscaping: Listco Landscape & Irrigation / SYNLawn Vancouver Island Kilo Pools

PHOTO BY SPARTAN MEDIA GROUP

fashion

Alexandra Catrina wears a dress that was created from 100 reusable grocery bags, and includes 100 flowers handcrafted from reusable grocery bags and 100 vintage buttons.

Impact

SUSTAINABILITY MEETS HIGH FASHION

PHOTOGRAPHY + WORDS LIA CROWE

MAKEUP AND HAIR FOR ERIKKA JENNY MCKINNEY

Pushing the boundaries of sustainability and style! Boulevard travels to the Okanagan for the first annual Kelowna Fashion Weekend, a showcase of innovative designs from both emerging and established designers across BC. The event featured a blend of new fashion, upcycled designs, and artistic expression, all focusing on sustainability in fashion and set against the backdrop of Kelowna’s Cultural District. Here is fashion from one of the designers, AesthetiKs Lab by host Erikka Moojelsky.

Models: Patrick Mensah Kane, Rochelle Kurian, Alexandra Catrina, Navy Kaur Brar and Tegbir Singh Brar

Hair and makeup for Alexandra, Rochelle and Navy: Makeup by Isabela Stein

Hair by Mya Wagner and Lisa Burke

All fashion is designed and made by Erikka Moojelsky and available to purchase at AesthetiKsAtelier.com

Patrick Mensah Kane wears clothing created from upcycled bedsheets and a denim duvet cover ($349).
Rochelle Kurian wears an outfit that was created from an upcycled bedsheet ($249).
Navy Kaur Brar wears a dress that was created from an upcycled bedsheet and two recycled zippers ($249), while Tegbir Singh Brar wears an outfit (for Erikka’s youngest model ever) that was created from Erikka’s oldest fabric, an upcycled 1977 justice league bedsheet ($218).

Erikka Moojelsky

Designer/Owner AesthetiKs Atelier

Creator of Kelowna Fashion Weekend

Erikka started sewing at the age of six and has been working at the craft for over 30 years. After graduating from fashion design school in 2009, she started her own label which is now AesthetiKs Atelier.

“I have been using recycled fabrics since I started sewing as a child.” Erikka says. “I used to make Barbie clothes out of the socks that had lost their counterparts. In high school, I began buying fabrics at thrift stores and using my grandmother’s sewing scraps. To this day, I use recycled fabrics, and repurpose items into clothing. I do it in a way that isn’t kitschy; it’s wearable streetwear.”

Erikka is also the creator of Kelowna Fashion Weekend, which is an inclusive fashion event for anyone who loves the art form that is fashion. Erikka felt it was important to create a safe space for local models, photographers, social media enthusiasts and illustrators to learn about the industry.

Asked about the future of her brand, Erikka says, “My brand has and always will be for those who want a piece that embodies their inner child. You’ve become someone your younger self would look up to. My pieces honour that.”

Vintage jumpsuit from Lost Together Vintage & Modern, in Kelowna. Earrings by Louis Vuitton (Eriikka’s own), necklace (thrifted), shoes from Aldo.

Back in BUSINESS

Fred Aram resurrects iconic Capital Iron

WORDS TESS VAN STRAATEN PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE

Taking risks is nothing new for entrepreneur Fred Aram, who saved Victoria’s iconic Capital Iron store from bankruptcy.

“I’ve taken risks quite a few times in my life and with risk, there is definitely a lot of reward,” the 51-year-old says. “There’s risk in any business venture, but with the business concept for Capital Iron, I’m very optimistic that it will be a success story.”

The new, renovated, revitalized and rebranded Capital Iron opened in May with an official grand opening planned for September. Fred’s vision for the 90-year-old Store Street business—which started operating in 1934 as an iron salvaging and scrapping company—was to not only save it, but to transform it.

“Capital Iron has been many things over the years and it was a viable option to keep changing it,” says Fred, who also owns WestCoast Appliance Gallery, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. “Change is a necessity for survival and the prior format obviously wasn’t sustainable because it went out of business. So, it needed to change in order to be rejuvenated and successful.”

While the old Capital Iron, which was shuttered in December of 2022 along with its Langford location, sold thousands of different products—from clothing and camping supplies to hardware and hot tubs—the rejuvenated Capital Iron is a home store focusing on key product categories.

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“I’ve always had an entrepreneurial spirit and I’ve always wanted to be my own boss. I’ve always wanted to create jobs for others and contribute to the economy.”

“My background in business has not been in smaller items and I wanted to stay in the business I know. So, instead of a general store trying to be everything to everybody, we have a more focused approach to the business,” Fred explains. “We’re focusing on indoor and outdoor furniture, indoor and outdoor appliances, outdoor kitchens, fireplaces, hot tubs, saunas and barbeques. At some point, most of these products have been a part of Capital Iron in the past.”

Capital Iron’s history is important to Fred, who purchased the company’s name and intellectual property.

“It’s so iconic and it was such a shame letting a name like Capital Iron and this historic element of the city disappear,” he says. “I was shocked that nobody else had thought about buying it because it’s a very well-known business name and location, and it just makes sense to take the name and revitalize it.”

Fred started working in the appliance industry, in both retail and wholesale, after immigrating to Canada from Iran by himself when he was 27 years old. It was another well-calculated risk that’s had very big rewards.

“Canada is the best country in the world and the fact that I am where I am, that just says it all,” he says. “There’s opportunity and

there’s no order or limit for anybody who wants to progress in life. You can just do it. All you need is the will and desire to work hard and use your imagination and creativity and build something.”

Fred has done just that and after moving to Victoria from Vancouver in 2016 to purchase WestCoast Appliance Gallery with a partner who he’s since bought out, he hasn’t looked back.

“I’ve always had an entrepreneurial spirit and I’ve always wanted to be my own boss,” he says. “I’ve always wanted to create jobs for others and contribute to the economy.”

As any entrepreneur knows, it takes a lot of hard work to be successful, and Fred says his biggest business lesson has been patience.

“It takes a lot of patience and perseverance, and the best advice I’ve ever been given is to be patient and pursue opportunities.”

Patience also comes in handy while dealing with government bureaucracy—something Fred says has become much worse over the years. It’s the biggest challenge he’s faced in business and he believes all the red tape is a huge hindrance to economic growth.

“Whether it’s provincial or federal government, their policies are not really business-friendly and what they’re doing is unfriendly to the growth of the business,” he explains. “They don’t realistically see the impact new policies will have on business, the impact

they have on the day-to-day operation of a business, and how it not only causes a lot of extra and unnecessary work, but also prevents growth.”

Capital Iron’s opening was delayed more than seven months due to financing hold-ups and while it’s still early days, Fred says, the overall response has been great.

“We’ve had a lot of visitors come see the new store and most are extremely happy to see the business continuing to exist,” he says. “There are some people who didn’t want to see anything change, but the old business model wasn’t sustainable. We also still cater to every budget, so in pretty much every category we carry we have items from the least expensive to the most expensive—from a $299 barbeque to a $22,000 stove and everything in between.”

While Fred’s first passion is business—he’s a self-proclaimed workaholic—his other passion is rescuing animals, and he’s saved hundreds over the years from the Middle East, Cyprus and Korea.

“I’m an animal lover and I rescue animals from overseas and find them homes,” he says with a smile. “I’ve always loved animals, but when I got my first dog, I just got drawn into it and all of my five dogs are rescues.”

As for what keeps him up at night running two separate businesses, Fred is quick to answer.

“Nothing!” he laughs. “If I don’t get a good night’s sleep, I can’t function the next day, so I try not to think about it, and I wake up in the morning and fight the battle one day at a time.”

And a visit to see Molly is a

9719 First Street, Sidney | 250.896.6540

The Shop, a boutique emporium born in Sidney by the Sea. It started as a dream and has since blossomed into a artistic genius of vendors who are dedicated to their craft, creating various forms of art, pottery, driftwood sculptures, pictures, lamps, the list is extensive, it is a must see to believe place - we invite you to the splendour of - The Shop!
must.
Meet Molly

Is Egg Freezing Right for You?

Fertility expert Dr Riki Dayan MD explains egg freezing

PHOTOGRAPHY Jen Steele Photography

Dr. Riki Dayan MD FRCS is a Reproductive Endocrinologist and Infertility specialist at Olive Fertility Victoria.

If you are in your 30’s and not ready to start a family yet you might want to consider freezing your eggs.

We are born with all the eggs we will ever have and start losing eggs the minute we are born. This loss is significant by our late thirties. However, not only does egg quantity decline but egg quality declines as well. Poor egg quality leads to a higher rate of infertility, more frequent miscarriages, and a greater risk for chromosomal disorders in the offspring.

Egg freezing involves the same process as IVF (in vitro fertilization) where you inject medication to stimulate the ovaries to grow multiple eggs. Eggs are then removed from the body with a needle (that goes through the vagina into the ovaries), with the eggs being flash-frozen for later use. In the future when you use those eggs, the chance of a healthy pregnancy is reflected in the age of the eggs when they were frozen (not your age when you use them)!

1. When should you freeze your eggs?

You will never have better quality eggs than you have at this moment. We recommend that people freeze their eggs before the age of 38 if possible. Egg freezing after the age of 38 has a lower success rate and that rate plummets after the age of 42.

2. How successful is egg freezing?

For patients under 35 who freeze between 15-20 eggs, it is safe to say that the chance of having at least 1 child is ~ 70-75%. However, freezing your eggs does not a guarantee that a healthy pregnancy will occur. Plan to start your family sooner than later!

3. Choosing a fertility clinic for egg freezing.

In addition to a knowledgeable and experienced fertility doctor, the embryology lab is key to successful egg freezing and future egg thawing when you decide to fertilize your eggs. The freezing and thawing of eggs are delicate processes that take a high level of skill. It is important that the embryology team has many hours of experience with egg freezing specifically. You want to choose a fertility centre that performs 200 or more cycles per year.

4. How much does it cost?

Fertility consultations and most tests are covered by MSP in British Columbia with a referral from a family physician. At the moment MSP does not cover the egg freezing process but increasingly private health plans will cover part or all the treatment. Check your plan. At Olive, the treatment costs $9,050 including orientation, egg retrieval, egg freezing and 1 year of egg storage.

5. Getting started

To learn more about your fertility and whether egg or embryo freezing are good options for you, talk to a fertility specialist who can help assess your current and future fertility.

VIRTUAL REFERRAL PARTNER

Olive Fertility offers patients the option to book a same-day, no-fee, virtual referral appointment with our referral partner, Rocket Doctor (rocketdoctor.ca/olive-fertility). The referral will be automatically sent to Olive Fertility and a member of our intake team will contact you shortly thereafter to book your fertility appointment.

Road

WORDS + PHOTOGRAPHY SUSAN LUNDY
On the road near the border of Idaho and Utah.

Two adults, aged 58 and 63. One fouryear-old, 20-pound dog. An older-version Honda CR-V. Twenty-nine states. Fifteen thousand kilometres. One new starter; four new tires.

Last November, my husband, Bruce, our dog, Zorro, and I took off from the West Coast of Canada and over the next nine days cut across Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Utah to Santa Fe in New Mexico, where we turned and headed east. The Texas panhandle, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Tennessee, Washington, DC, Virginia, New York...Eventually, we landed in Connecticut, where our daughter had recently birthed our first grandchild.

Three months later, now February, we headed home, giving ourselves two weeks and averaging six hours of driving per day. Hugging the US coast, we drove through Virginia, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana, and then followed the US/Mexican border through Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California.

It was an epic adventure.

Road trips have always been our happy place, and this was no exception. In a perfect world, we would have had more time to experience the flavours of each destination; as it was, the trip served up an appetizer tray. There were a lot of spots—Savannah, San Antonio, Santa Fe—where, hopefully, we can return one day to experience the full-meal deal.

But in the meantime, we learned a lot about preparing for a road trip and living on the road. So, here are our some of our survival tips.

Choosing the wheels

We explored ideas around taking our ‘78 VW van or our ’03 Delica, or selling both and buying a newer, more reliable RV. We also looked at a conversion kit that transforms an SUV into a sleeping unit and considered mixing camping with hotel stays. But adding up fuel economy, comfort and easy-to-access car parts should a breakdown occur, we ultimately decided to take our trusty CR-V.

Prepping the wheels

We put a lot of thought into car organization and purchased several items.

• We invested in a cushy, dog-specific car seat for Zorro. It attached to the back backseat and to his harness, giving him a comfortable spot for spending hours in the car and keeping him safer should an accident occur.

WHERE STYLE IS OUR LANGUAGE

Bernstein & Gold est. 1992 now open on Oak Bay Avenue (free parking in the back)

608 Yates Street / 1967 Oak Bay Ave. 250. 384. 7899 www.bernsteinandgold.com

bernstein_goldbernstein_gold

• We bought a travel tray that sat between us just below the dashboard. Attached to one of the console’s cupholders, it gave us a total of three cupholders instead of two and provided a useful area to put things as we drove: snacks, phones, keys, coins….

• Rest stops are great—stop when you see one! But a lot of the time on the road there is simply no place to pee, and that is when your hand-held unisex urinal becomes the most beloved item in

• Trail mix in the glove box. On the road, you spend a lot of time hungry, often with few dining options. We travelled with a small cooler for Zorro’s food and a few canned drinks, plus a bag in the backseat of the car with additional snacks. But what we dove into most often was that trail mix in the glove box.

Our initial plan was to go economy level on the hotels—after all, we’d be arriving in the early evening and leaving in the early morning. But after our first night in a motel that had thin walls and questionable bedding, we upgraded that plan. We also discovered what is probably obvious; better hotel deals are found in smaller areas outside urban centres.

We booked through a third-party app because it was super easy

Often when paying for gas with a credit card in the US, you’ll be asked to enter a ZIP code—creating a conundrum for Canadian travellers. To solve this, enter the three numerical digits contained in your postal code followed by two zeros. It took us a few stops to learn this, so another hot tip is to carry cash.

to use, filtered out non-pet-friendly hotels, gave us essential information and reviews, and rewarded us with a couple of free stays. (However, there are risks booking with third-party apps; for example, when I booked a hotel for the wrong night, I was unable to get a refund.) We looked for pet-friendly hotels with fridges and free parking, often choosing suites with kitchens. We loved the Home2 Suites by Hilton line; although the pet fee was sometimes hefty.

Most of the hotels we selected early in the trip had a pet fee of around $25 USD, so we were shocked to walk into a Sonesta Royal in Nashville and fork over $100 USD for Zorro. It turned out that the $25 pet fees were the exception, not the norm, and it became essential when booking hotels to check the pet fee in advance. Some hotel can charge up to $150 USD for a pet—sometimes close to the price of the hotel room itself.

Here is another hotel hot tip: if you are using a cooler and your hotel room doesn’t have a freezer compartment in the fridge, use the ice machine to keep your cooler cool.

Gastronomy

As usually happens with us on the road, we quickly settled into a routine of eating breakfast, a midday snack and a larger, late-afternoon or early-evening meal. The biggest tip here is: American

restaurants serve up huge portions, so we helped our budget by ordering one entree to share, or a main and a side dish—and always had enough food for the two of us.

Travelling with a dog complicates eating out. Breweries, we discovered, are the best place to find pet-friendly dining and in warmer climes, of course, pet-friendly patios abound.

Morning coffee is very important to me. And because I have a dairy allergy, I seek out oat milk for my java-on-the-road. Most coffee shops these days have oat milk, especially in larger centres, but to be honest, many of the local coffee shops we checked out poured substandard brew (especially in the US south). Ulitmately, for coffee on the road, I found that to have the perfect, consistently good, oatmilk java, I needed to beeline it straight to the nearest Starbucks.

Fuelling up

We stopped for gas at least once a day. Often, when paying for gas with a credit card in the US, you’ll be asked to enter a ZIP code—creating a conundrum for Canadian travellers. To solve this, enter the three numerical digits contained in your postal code followed by two zeros. (So, our postal became 82200.) It took us a few stops to learn this, so another hot tip is to carry cash. Our credit cards didn’t always work, and my debit card rarely worked, so we used a lot of cash.

Getting cash out of a bank machine? Look for Toronto Dominion or Wells Fargo, as a lot of other banks are hit and miss for accessing funds with Canadian debit cards.

The Sophia bed reshapes the sleep experience, combining comfort, functionality, and elegance to create a place for rest and a destination for relaxation.

Idaho.

Navigation

Bruce, bless his heart (as they say in the deep south), loves his maps, and at the start of the trip he spent considerable time looking at the maze of highways in our map book, trying to remember exit numbers, while I basically rolled my eyes and opened the Maps app on my phone.

We were really impressed with the US highway system. You could get anywhere you wanted with about 10 route options. But when it comes to exiting one highway for another highway again and again, there is nothing like having Siri guide you through it. We used the Maps app on our iPhones, which kept distance prompts in kilometres, leading to more instinctual timing estimations.

Our friend Siri also let us know if there were road condition issues (accidents, flooding, debris on the road), offering to change our route on the fly, and alerted us to speed traps.

Ultimately, road trips benefit from what I consider the four cornerstones of happy travel: forethought, flexibility, spontaneity and acceptance. Be thorough in your planning but prepare to change it on the fly and accept that things might go differently than anticipated.

But there’s nothing quite like being on the road, and we can’t wait to pack up the car again and hit the highway for further adventures.

Virginia.
Photos: Lance Sullivan | Concept Photography

VICTORIA’S

Victoria BC

4585 Leyns Road

$7,900,000

Exquisite custom-built estate in the desirable Gordon Head community. Perched on the ocean’s edge, this architecturally stunning home was masterfully designed to capitalize on the world class ocean and mountain views. With dramatic vaulted ceilings, gleaming hardwood floors, spacious open concept design and a gorgeous custom kitchen, this 5 bedroom, 7 bathroom property captivates at every glance.

8338 West Saanich Road

Victoria BC

$13,800,000

The setting at Ocean Enclave between the sculptured gardens and the sparkling sea, transmits a sense of peace that washes over all who are fortunate enough to arrive. This low bank ocean front property encompasses 6.8 acres and captivates at every glance. This exquisite custom built home was commissioned in 1996 and is a masterful work of West Coast Architecture that incorporates natural building materials throughout.

Victoria, BC

2990 Beach Drive

$7,288,000

Perched on a hill overlooking the ocean is this epitome of grand estate excellence, architecturally stunning & custom built on 0.8 acres with manicured gardens. A grand entry showcases the designer interior which is flooded with natural light, soaring ceilings grace this 5,300sqft home. Outdoor living at its finest with patios, outdoor fireplace & a covered, heated pool. Prime location with walking trails, beaches and world class amenities.

$6,999,000

Elite urban living in this prestigious PH in the World Class Customs House. Victoria’s finest views from every room, with panoramic Inner Harbour, Mountain & City skylines. Designer kitchen with Italian cabinetry, Wolf and Sub-Zero appliances, glass encased wine storage & island with waterfall stone counters. Regal primary suite with lavish ensuite, walk-in closet & balcony. 1,500sqft rooftop terrace provides year round enjoyment.

LEBLANC PIERCY GROUP

3525 Upper Terrace

$4,888,000

Exquisite family home nestled in the heart of Uplands, boasting elegance and modern comfort. This 6 bedroom, 7 bath home has been meticulously updated and transformed throughout, blending historic charm and luxury, perfect for entertaining and enjoying family time. Serenely situated on a tranquil street, the property offers an abundance of outdoor living spaces with gardens, patios, and fireplaces. This is a true West Coast gem!

Sooke, BC

$2,588,000

Stunning Oceanside estate on a 1 acre lot, offering complete peace & privacy! Extensive gardens, patios and deep water dock make for the perfect West Coast retreat. Interior is flooded with natural light from large picture windows framing ocean & mountain views. This 5 bed, 3 bath home features a gourmet kitchen, living and dining rooms with patio access and a hot tub on a private deck off the primary bedroom. Sooke living at its finest!

2600 Queenswood Drive

Victoria BC

$8,900,000

Email scott.piercy@evrealestate.com 5957 Sooke Road

605 Senanus Drive

$13,995,000

Masterpiece of architecture! Waterfront estate on 5+ acres. Sweeping water views from all principle rooms. Nearly 10,000 sq ft of breathtaking living space. Exceptional outdoor living including a swimming pool, lots of patio spaces, trails & gardens. Workshop with 12ft garage, plus a garage, tool shed & chicken coop. Explore the surrounding waters from your yacht, with the convenience of a boathouse with a mechanized marine way.

The local real estate advisor with the international network. www.luxurybchomes.com

Private gated estate with 2.78 acres of unobstructed waterfront with views of Mt Baker & the Gulf Islands. Hampton Style Manor, with a grand 22’ ceiling foyer. Rich Maple hardwood flooring throughout, with a mixture of timeless design elements & modern luxuries. Enviable outdoor living with wrap around patios & stone walkways to your private dock, launch your kayak/paddle board & explore. Scott Piercy PREC*, Private Office Advisor

Engel & Volkers Vancouver Island

2249 Oak Bay Avenue | Victoria BC | V8R 1G4

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Broadmead Updated Sunny Rancher prepped for In-law suite
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Old World charm

Bringing Europe’s culinary culture back home

WORDS ELLIE SHORTT X PHOTOGRAPHY LIA CROWE

When I worked as a clinical nutritionist, many clients shared with me that when travelling throughout Europe, they could enjoy several foods that might otherwise be challenging. They would eat bread without belly bloat, or consume copious quantities of dairy without stomach cramps. All food seemed to sit better, and their digestion and overall sense of wellness around mealtimes improved. I’ve had similar experiences when I found myself travelling, cooking and studying in dreamy distant places.

There are some solid explanations for the phenomenon: the types of ingredients, mealtime sentiments and philosophies around food that seem to feed the body, and even the soul, in ways that can be missed in the more fast-paced, convenience-based North American approaches to what and how we eat.

The following are a few tips and concepts that explore these very approaches, in the hopes that by incorporating some elements of food-based travel bliss into your at-home, day-to-day consumption you notice shifts and changes in your digestion, mealtime satisfaction and overall sense of wellbeing.

It’s worth mentioning that “Europhilia”—admiration for Europe and Europeans—can be problematic, and the overly romantic ideal of how others eat (and live) throughout the world is often reductive, selective, limited or simply inaccurate. With that said, the following is a collection of concepts I’ve come across on my own or discovered from folks I know who are from places like Italy, France, Spain and Portugal, and who confirm that these old-world European approaches are often the prevailing ethos when it comes to gastronomy.

INGREDIENTS OVER PRODUCTS

Fresh herbs, extra virgin olive oil, butter, freshly squeezed lemon juice, good garlic and high-quality sea salt: many chefs and European cooks will say that it’s not as much the recipe that matters as it is the ingredients that go into the dish, and beyond even these basics, you don’t need much else to create a sensational meal. Combined with some freshly caught seafood, a quality cut of meat or some seasonal veggies, you’re most of the way to making a masterpiece. The fresher and higher-quality the ingredients, the greater the nutrient density. The greater the nutrient density, the greater the sense of satisfaction from a cellular level; and this affects us physically, mentally and even emotionally. Start focusing on fresh, in-season, high-quality and thoughtfully sourced ingredients over ultra-processed and mega-mass-made products and you’ll notice a difference in how things taste, and perhaps how you feel.

1 tin Finest at Sea crab boil spice

¼ lb butter

1 lemon, cut into wedges

¼ cup sea salt

2 cloves garlic

¼ lb nugget potatoes

1 ear BC corn, shucked and cut into 4

Method:

Bring a large pot of water to a boil with sea salt and crab boil spice. When the water boils add the potatoes and corn and cook until tender (5-10 minutes). Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon or strainer and keep warm. Do not discard the water. Add crab to the boiling water and cook for 2 minutes. Add the clams and mussels and cook for another 6-8 minutes or until the shells have popped open indicating they are cooked. While your seafood is cooking, melt the butter in a small saucepan with the whole cloves of garlic. When the shellfish has cooked, turn off the heat. Return the corn and potatoes to the pot with the spot prawns. Allow everything to sit for 2 minutes then strain the whole shebang! Serve warm, with garlic butter and lemon wedges and share with the ones you love. If you love lots of people, this recipe is easily multiplied.

Dungeness Crab Boil for Two
There are some solid explanations for the phenomenon: the types of ingredients, mealtime sentiments and philosophies around food that seem to feed the body, and even the soul, in ways that can be missed in the more fast-paced, conveniencebased North American approaches to what and how we eat.

SLOW IT DOWN

There’s a prevailing old-world priority of elongated and enjoyable food-based experiences. It begins with the mindful selection of ingredients, perhaps from a farm-fresh market. After this comes the cooking. Literally getting your hands involved in the process has been shown to benefit body and mind on many levels. Once the meal is made and the table is set, sitting down and savouring each bite allows your body to do its thing digestively, which can make a massive difference in how it reacts to food.

The European tradition of sitting for what sometimes seems like an exceptionally long time is a great way to relax and enjoy, and offer the body ample time to rest, digest and integrate the meal. I say all this as a mother of two small children, where mealtimes often feel chaotic, and the idea of an elongated dining experience seems unattainable most days. What I remind myself is that it doesn’t have to be every meal—having even one meal a week that is intentionally set as a special sit-down take-it-slow occasion may make a difference.

A FAMILY (AND FRIEND) AFFAIR

Classic old-world culture emphasizes community at mealtimes, featuring multiple generations, with young children running around, babies on laps, friends stopping by—it’s an open-table and open-heart policy where there’s always room for one more. These collective culinary experiences don’t just take the pressure off in terms of cooking load and clean-up (many hands make light work, after all), but having loved ones around brightens the mood, enlivens the conversation and creates a culture of food joy from an early age. The warm, loving atmosphere boosts feel-good hormones, which has a positive effect on digestion and nutrient absorption. Once again, the calmer and happier you are around mealtimes, the better your body can integrate the nourishment, and the less likelihood of digestive upset.

Chorizo al Vino Tinto with Orange and Honey

Much like apéro in France, tapas are a fixture in Spain. While sometimes offered as a way to warm up the belly before a meal, it is just as common to have an entire meal made of tapas. Enjoy this on slices of rustic bread, or just as is, for a satisfying start to your meal.

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 20 minutes

Makes about 4 servings

Ingredients

Extra virgin olive oil

6 oz cured chorizo

1 cup red wine (for example, Rioja or Tempranillo)

1 tbsp honey

1-2 bay leaves

1-2 large orange peel strips (you can use a vegetable peeler to shave off a couple slices of rind)

2-4 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole Chopped parsley to garnish

Cut the chorizo into even slices (around one-quarter-inch thick). Heat a medium-sized frying pan on medium heat and coat the bottom with olive oil. Arrange the chorizo slices in a single layer and cook for 1 to 3 minutes, until starting to crisp, and then turn over. Cook for a couple minutes on the other side, then add the wine and honey to the pan. Tuck the bay leaf, orange rind and garlic in between or under the chorizo slices.

Once the wine comes to the boil, reduce the heat slightly and simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the wine becomes more syrup-like. Remove from the heat and serve topped with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.

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Simple Bouillabaisse with Roasted Red Pepper Rouille

Bouillabaisse is one of those recipes that seem intimidating at first, but once you’ve given it a try, it might quickly become a staple in your summertime rotation. I make the base ahead of time, and then reheat and add in the fresh seafood before serving. Even if you don’t make the bouillabaisse, you might want to give the rouille a try. Traditionally served with bread as a side to bouillabaisse, it’s one of those magic sauces that enhances almost every meal. This rouille is a fantastic flavour-forward mayo substitute in sandwiches.

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 30 minutes

Makes about 4 servings

Ingredients for the bouillabaisse

Extra virgin olive oil and/or unsalted butter (I use a combination of both, about ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ cup butter)

3-4 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced

1-2 leeks, white parts only, washed and thinly sliced

1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced

2 tbsp tomato paste

1 (14-ounce) can plum tomatoes, chopped

3-4 cups fish broth

2 orange peel strips

Pinch of saffron

1-2 bay leaves

3-4 sprigs fresh thyme

Salt and pepper to taste

1 ounce Pernod (or other pastis)

1 lb white fish, skinned and cut into 2-inch pieces

1 lb clams and/or mussels cleaned and scrubbed well

About ½ lb prawns

About ½ lb scallops

Fresh herbs for garnish (parsley, dill, etc.)

Honey Orange Panna Cotta with Cherry Port Compote

and Crumbled Pistachio

Panna cotta is another recipe that is simpler and easier than you might realize. Make it even easier on yourself by serving it directly in the dish it sets in and thereby bypassing the sometimes scary process of removing it from a mould and hoping it maintains its shape. In fact, it’s essentially a must with this particular recipe, as the addition of the honey gives it a creamier texture, reminiscent of a crème brûlée.

Prep time: 15 minutes

Chilling time: 3 hours

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients for the panna cotta

¼ cup cold water

1 ¼ tsp unflavoured powdered gelatin

2 cups heavy cream

2 tbsp granulated sugar

1 tbsp honey

1 vanilla bean, sliced in half with the seeds scraped out and set aside Zest of one large orange ¼ cup raw shelled pistachios

Ingredients for the compote

1 pint fresh dark cherries, pitted and left whole or sliced in half

1 oz port

1 tbsp honey

Orange zest and vanilla discards from panna cotta

Place water in a small mixing bowl and sprinkle gelatin over the surface in an even, single layer. Leave for 5-10 minutes to bloom. If the gelatin isn’t fully absorbing into the water after this time, you can separate it using a very fine sieve and discard the excess water.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the cream with the sugar, honey, vanilla seeds and orange zest on medium heat and bring just to a boil until the sugar and honey dissolves. Remove from heat and strain out the orange zest and larger vanilla seeds using a very fine sieve (do not discard though—keep this for the compote). Stir in the gelatin and immediately whisk until smooth and dissolved. If the gelatin hasn’t fully dissolved, return the saucepan to the stove and heat gently over low heat. Stir constantly and don’t let the mixture boil.

Pour into 4 individual serving dishes. Refrigerate for at least 2-4 hours, or until completely set.

Meanwhile, combine all the compote ingredients in medium saucepan, and give it a good stir to integrate.

Bring to a slight boil on high heat, and then turn the heat down and let it simmer away for at least 20 minutes, until all the cherries have softened completely and the juices are thick. Let sit and cool at room temperature or in the fridge before serving.

While simmering or cooling you can prepare the pistachios. Simply place about ¼ cup of raw shelled pistachios in a blender and pulse until finely crumbled. You can also do this by hand.

To assemble, remove the set panna cotta from the fridge. Top one side with the berry compote, and using a small spoon, sprinkle the pistachio crumble in a line between the edge of the compote and the other side of the panna cotta. 250.384.1550

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Pack a spirit of Adventure

Puerto Rico is a distinctly un-American American destination

WORDS LAUREN KRAMER

We are kayaking around a large, man-made lagoon in San Juan, Puerto Rico, admiring the new high-rise condominiums, when my guide points to the banks of the lagoon, where mangrove trees dip their nubby, mussel-encrusted fingers into the water.

“Not long ago the lagoon banks were completely covered in green iguanas,” he says, of the six-foot reptiles that were released into the wild by pet owners back in the 1970s. “They were invasive and caused so much damage that the government gave us permission to hunt them. I don’t eat them. But people who do say they taste quite good, like chicken.”

“a play about coming to terms with identity, be it social, political, sexual…”

There’s not a single iguana sunning itself on the lagoon banks now, and the once-polluted waters have been cleaned up. Today kayakers and paddle boarders glide around the lagoon and swimmers wear masks and snorkels in hopes of seeing the manatees, lobster, fish and sea turtles that now swim freely between the ocean and the lagoon.

Just across the road lies the golden sand of the Isla Verde beaches, where cruise ship and resort travellers spend their free time sipping piña coladas as they soak up the sun.

Here is some advice: when given the choice between days of sun-baked lethargy or heading out to explore Puerto Rico, don’t think twice. Rent a car, pack a spirit of adventure and hit the road. This American territory is completely un-American, an island with a fascinating history and a rich cultural identity. Head on hikes into its lush, tropical rainforests, and take a snorkeling trip to see its brilliantly iridescent marine life in the Caribbean Sea. In short, say no to the fog of beach days defined by alcohol and suntanning. There’s just too much else to see and do in Puerto Rico.

You can’t leave San Juan without exploring Old San Juan, and one of the best ways to do this is with Spoon, a boutique food and history company. Our guide, Pablo Garcia, is a mixture of performer, history buff and culinary connoisseur, and he starts our tour in the Plaza del Quinto Centenario, where fortifications more than 500 years old lie before us.

La Fortaleza and El Morro were built in the 1500s, and their thick, stone walls, 185 feet above sea level, guarded the city’s harbour from invaders. The walls are punctuated by “garritas,” domeshaped sentry booths located shouting distance from each other, so when one sentry perceived a threat on the horizon, he simply yelled a warning to his cohorts.

We stop for coffee at Don Ruiz, a coffee shop located in Ballajá Barracks, a historic building and former military housing. The coffee beans are from a four-generation family farm specializing in single-harvest, hand-picked beans.

“In the 1700s, coffee was big business in Puerto Rico and one in every six cups of coffee worldwide was made with beans grown on

the island,” Pablo says. “Coffee money built our roads and sealed our dams.”

It also caused the deforestation of 95 per cent of Puerto Rico.

Spain maintained a stronghold on the island until 1898, when it became the US territory it is to this day. But the Spanish influence remains pervasive, easily perceptible in the mother tongue, the cuisine and the islanders’ distinct cultural identity.

Over the next three hours, we wander between restaurants in beautifully preserved, colourful buildings in Old San Juan’s narrow, brick-laid streets. We sip soursop juice, a local hangover cure with a pear-like taste, and sample mofongo, a pastry made from mashed, fried green plantains.

We stop outside a local bank where Spanish history is boldly declared in a circular symbol above the door.

“That’s the seal of Puerto Rico, still used to stamp new laws to this day,” Pablo says. The seal depicts a tower representing Queen Isabella of Castile, a lion representing King Ferdinand II of Aragon and a cross symbolizing the Spanish Inquisition and Spain’s “discovery” of the New World.

The next day we head east to El Yunque National Forest, a tropical rainforest 40 minutes and a world away from the bustle and traffic of San Juan. The 28,000-acre forest is a fragrant tangle of lush greens where every leaf is wet with moisture and the pulsing flow of water can be seen everywhere. We inhale the rich, earthy aroma and listen to the musical mating calls of the coqui frogs.

Our guide, Franki Battistini, leads us to the Pimenta racemosa, a plant whose leaves numb aches and pains, and points out the taro, whose roots are an island carbohydrate staple. We see the calabash tree, whose fruit, once dried out, becomes a bowl for future meals, and the ylang-ylang, whose fragrance is found in Chanel No. 5.

He gestures at trees colonized by bromeliads, ferns and moss, and says, “These plants are full of medicinal properties that we’re still discovering. The cure for cancer could be right here.”

The forest didn’t look this verdant seven years ago, when Hurricane Maria struck the island, battering it with winds of up to 200

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miles per hour for more than 30 hours. Franki lived through it and remembers its howl like a terrifying wolf at the door. When it finally receded, the trees that remained were bare, and the once thick canopy in El Yunque was decimated.

As it happens, that was a good thing.

“We don’t have a dormant season in Puerto Rico, so hurricanes are our natural landscapers—they clean things up,” he says. Within three months, the ferns, grasses and vines were back, stimulated by the loss of canopy cover and the higher temperatures.

We see massive tree ferns, bamboo forests and the Ceiba, Puerto Rico’s national tree, whose roots create the dam they need to sustain their growth for up to 300 years.

We climb a tower leading to a view of El Yunque’s cloud-shrouded peaks, 3,500 feet above sea level. The rainforest tumbles towards the ocean and on a clear day you can see all the way to the island of Saint Thomas, 179 kilometres away in the Caribbean Sea. It’s an average day on the island, with the mercury hovering around 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and the prospect of playing in that sea is just irresistible.

Within 15 minutes we are at the marina, boarding a vessel destined for the coral reef. And 20 minutes later, we’re in the warm Caribbean water, surrounded by schools of iridescent fish and mesmerized by an underwater world swirling with vibrant colour.

It’s not what comes to mind when you think about domestic travel in the United States, but Puerto Rico is a uniquely un-American American destination. This is an island whose appeal lies in its deep historical roots, its rich cultural tapestry and its exquisite natural beauty, both above and below sea level.

Oh, and don’t leave without trying its national drink, that heady mix of coconut cream and pineapple juice fondly known as the piña colada.

IF YOU GO:

Getting there: There are no direct flights to Puerto Rico from Vancouver. The commute requires a stopover and around eight hours of flying time.

While many of the big-brand hotels have a strong presence on the island and high price tags for accommodation, there are also many small inns and “paradores,” family-owned properties offering a more intimate hospitality experience. To explore them and find more information on Puerto Rico, visit DiscoverPuertoRico.com.

The Spoon Experience (thespoonexperience.com) offers boutique food and history tours of Old San Juan.

To eat like a local, visit Loiza, where a selection of kiosks and restaurants on the cusp of the boardwalk offer stuffed mofongos (mashed plantains), alcapurrias (fritters) and fresh-caught seafood with rice and beans.

To get a meaningful glimpse at the forest’s vegetation, El Yunque is best explored in hiking boots, with or without a guided tour. Tours with varying levels of adventure are available. fs.usda.gov/elyunque

Book a snorkeling trip to the coral reef from the Luquillo Marina, where many operators offer half-day excursions.

secrets and lives — AND THE 7 SINS with CHRIS WALKER

Chris Walker, owner of the residential construction business Christopher Developments, has been building homes in Victoria for more than three decades. Throughout his journey from aircraft mechanic to award-winning custom homebuilder, Chris’s attention to detail and commitment to quality have been the cornerstones of his success.

Chris was born in Churchill, Manitoba. His dad was in the RCMP Air Services, so Chris and his parents moved around Canada during his childhood—to Regina, the Northwest Territories and then Victoria in 1974, where he’s been ever since.

“The RCMP transferred my dad here to Victoria, and we all thought we came to heaven. And we never left,” says Chris.

After high school, Chris followed in his dad’s footsteps into the aviation field, getting his commercial pilot’s license and his aircraft maintenance license, and working at Victoria International Airport (YYJ) for several years before pursuing his lifelong goal of starting his own business.

“In 1992, I got out of aircraft maintenance, and I decided to call myself a builder.”

And that’s when Christopher Developments was born. Chris’s aviation career enabled him to hone skills that were equally valuable in construction, including precise attention to detail and clear communication.

“In aviation, especially as an aircraft mechanic,

attention to detail is extremely important. I’ve always been detail-oriented and organized, and I really think that’s helped with my customers at Christopher Developments,” Chris says.

Creativity, honesty and transparency are some of the other key qualities that Chris strives to uphold in his work.

“I mean what I say, and I say what I mean,” he says. “You always know where I stand.”

Chris started by working on small infill developments around Victoria, but over time he began designing and building custom homes, which is now Christopher Developments’ bread and butter.

“For the past 10 years or so, we’ve really focused on homes, and we’ve developed a very good reputation here as one of the premier homebuilders,” he says.

This is evidenced by Christopher Developments’ impressive portfolio of projects (showcased on his website, christopherdevelopments.com) and the many industry awards they’ve scooped up at the Victoria Residential Builders Association’s Construction Achievements and Renovations of Excellence (CARE) Awards.

Chris says a recent highlight is the Lands End Road project, a beautiful waterfront home that won multiple 2022 CARE Awards, including Project of the Year—the third time Christopher Developments has won that prestigious title—as well as the People’s Choice Award and gold-medal wins in eight other categories.

Waterfront properties like the Lands End Road project have been a particular specialty for Christopher Developments.

“I love getting to work on some of the most beautiful properties in Victoria, arguably in Canada,” he reflects. “We’ve built about 18 waterfront homes in the past seven or eight years, so we’re often around the waterfront. It’s a great place to work.”

Chris’s wife, Joan Gandza, is “the other side of the business” as Christopher Developments’ office manager, taking care of client invoicing and accounts, and he says he couldn’t do it without her. When he’s not out on his daily visits to his job sites, Chris works along with Joan in their home office building.

And in his free time, Chris is still an avid pilot. He flies his Nanchang CJ-6A with a local group called Yak Flight, made up of professional pilots who are also members of the US-based Red Star Pilots Association. You’re likely to spot them flying in formation over the water if you’re walking along Dallas Road on a sunny Sunday afternoon. They’re also known for their annual Remembrance Day flyover ceremony over the parliament buildings.

“We usually have veterans in our cockpits with us. It’s a big honour.”

Chris has also started a new joint venture with architect Chris Foyd. Their new company is called 2XC Developments (named for the two Chrises). For their first project, they’ve purchased a beautiful waterfront property on King George Terrace to develop three waterfront homes.

Chris feels incredibly grateful for the city he calls home and the rewarding career he’s built here.

“What don’t I love about my work?” he muses. “I love living in Victoria and getting to build beautiful homes. In a nutshell, the creativity is what I love most. And, at the end of the day, to have a customer go into their new house, to be invited for a housewarming party or to visit them, and to see how you’ve been able to help create a dream for them.”

The 7 Sins

ENVY:

Whose shoes would you like to walk in?

Without exception, Steve Hinton. For warbird geeks like myself, his name is held in high esteem. Steve is a world champion air racer, and owner of the Planes of Fame Air Museum in Chino, California. I’ve had the honour of meeting him on a few occasions. He’s an absolute gentleman, who has lived the aviator’s dream.

GLUTTONY:

What is the food you could eat over and over again?

I’m absolutely spoiled when it comes to my wife’s cooking. Her Ukrainian heritage ensures our fridge is always stocked with some of the most amazing food you could possibly imagine, but my absolute favourite is kapusta (sauerkraut-stuffed) pierogis. She cringes when I layer on my special sauce (Dijon mustard).

GREED:

You’re given $1 million that you have to spend selfishly. What would you spend it on?

I would charter a yacht with a professional skipper to sail around the world with my family and a few select friends, and spend the rest on another airplane.

WRATH:

Pet peeves?

Small talk and procrastination. I’m not very good at either.

SLOTH:

Where would you spend a long time doing nothing?

One of my favourite beaches in Costa Rica with a good book and a bottomless glass of cranberry and soda (I really know how to party).

PRIDE:

What is the one thing you’re secretly proud of?

The ability to conceive a concept and execute with precision. That, and the fact that I can tell any potential customer that they’re welcome to speak to anyone we’ve built for.

LUST:

What makes your heart beat faster?

When not flying in formation, I enjoy practicing aerobatics. It’s very exciting, and the thought of flying a routine at the Abbotsford Airshow one day definitely makes my heart beat faster… who knows, maybe in my “retirement years.”

INHABITING LANDSCAPES

narrative WORDS ANGELA COWAN X ILLUSTRATION SIERRA LUNDY

it’s raining when we step off the plane in Edmonton. Big, fat, lovely drops that spatter the puddles against our shoes and sneak down the backs of our necks. This is mid-May, and it’s our first family trip to Alberta with our two young children, having flown in with a plan to drive back, exploring their family’s history and playing tourist along the way.

After the requisite trips to West Edmonton Mall (where we picked up new Lego sets and Build-A-Bear creations), Fort Edmonton Park (where we all squealed with excitement as we rode the steam train and the trolleys) and the Telus World of Science (where we pretended to feed our kids to the enormous animatronic T. rex) we began the three-hour journey out to Slave Lake, where my husband’s family has had a cabin for more than 40 years.

Though I’ve made maybe a dozen trips to the province over my lifetime, I haven’t been to Alberta in nearly a decade, and I realize how much I’ve forgotten about this wide-open space as we drive.

In Sharon Blackie’s The Enchanted Life, there’s a chapter where she writes about how our environments and our surroundings influence who we are at a deep level. We inhabit our landscapes, but our landscapes also inhabit us, she explains. Those who live in the mountains have an energy that’s distinct from those who live in the desert, or on a small island. And it’s those pages that come back to me as we drive north through Alberta, and then further north, travelling along a highway that’s so arrow-straight it feels surreal. The horizon is far enough away on either side that it shifts and blurs before I can make out the edges, while the endless sky overhead is heavy with ominous clouds broken by swaths of the deepest blue.

A through-and-through coastal gal, I’m feeling the brine in my blood keenly, here where I’m more than 1,000 kilometres from the ocean, and the landscape greens are muddied with browns and greys, and the very smell of the dirt is so different.

Unexpectedly, it takes two solid days for the prickling at the back of my neck to ease, too. With no mountains hemming in the horizon, or trees stretching up to the sky, or even hills rolling through the landscape, some instinctual part of my brain feels as exposed as a vole in a freshly turned field. Up at the lake, we settle into the cabin and one overcast evening we trek out to the beach where the water undulates in a false tide and smells like deep earth and rain. And although our only wildlife sightings so far have been magpies and grawking ravens, we still head back as the light starts to fail, remembering an account in the cabin’s journals about a mountain lion recently stalking some of our cousins.

Campfire and cabin traditions satisfied, a few days later we begin the homeward leg of our road trip and drive on to Drumheller and the Royal Tyrrell Museum. It’s been 25 years since I was last here, on a road trip with my mom, who was born in the small town. The dinosaurs are a major draw, but the landscape itself feels like a homecoming for me, despite never having lived here. Our road cuts through the hills as they grow taller, and dips down into steep valleys before climbing out again. The striations layering the distant hills gleam in a sudden shaft of sunlight—a rare break from the rain that will follow us through our entire trip—and we stop by the hoodoos, where my mother used to play when she was small, and an old cemetery where a number of my great-removed relatives are buried.

Driving on, there’s a storm so furious as we approach the Rockies that we can barely see the other side of the road, let alone the majesty of the mountains, but we slide into Banff amid a lighter mist and a small herd of elk grazing at the welcome sign. The sky clears and we wander the main street, purchasing entirely too many kitschy souvenirs, and I stop more than once to marvel at the snow-capped peaks surrounding us. They’re so much bigger than what we have on Vancouver Island, and I can’t get enough of it. It feels like being cradled in enormous, ancient arms. Thinking back to Blackie’s words, this landscape resonates somewhere deep inside of me, and for long moments as we travel, I can imagine how my roots would stretch and thrive in a place like this.

We take a side trip to Lake Louise where the water is so clear and calm it reflects a perfect mirror image of the mountains. It’s gorgeous here and our kids waste no time playing in the piles of snow that borders the pathway, but the real excitement is when I hear—and feel—a deep rumbling beyond the lake. Directly across the water, we spy a massive cloud of snow pluming into the air and watch an avalanche spill down in the far distance.

We’re all sad to leave the mountains behind as we make our way across the provincial border and descend farther into BC, but I notice myself breathing deeper and cranking our windows down as we go. The forest creeps up until it leans out over the highway, with trees that reach for the cotton-ball clouds overhead. Hours pass and the greens outside grow vibrant with undertones of gold and blue. I watch the unbroken wall of undergrowth tangle between the trunks and the sharp, green smell of moss and leaf fills a hole that I’ve been missing in myself since we left home. I feel stretched, bigger on the inside with everything we’ve seen and done and explored, and I am so thankful that we had the chance to share this trip with our kids.

But also...it’s good to be home.

Here is more from Boulevard food writer Ellie Shortt on experiencing old-world cuisine culture here at home.

“Whether you’re starting a meal with an aperitif, finishing it off with a digestif or glugging some wine into a big pot of something stewy, old-world European culture has a way with alcohol when it comes to culinary experiences. Incorporating alcoholic additions mindfully and thoughtfully throughout your meal isn’t just about flavour. The purpose of an aperitif or digestif is to aid in digestion, signaling to your body to secrete digestive enzymes, and encouraging peristalsis. When used properly in certain dishes, alcohol helps begin the breakdown process of harder-to-digest elements.”

Aperitif spritzer

If you’ve ever travelled to France, you’ll no doubt have come across the cultural institution that is “apéro”— the early evening act of grabbing a drink or some light food before gradually making your way to dinner. While an aperitif may just be a sip of vermouth, pastis, sherry, amaro or even Champagne, here is a cocktail that combines elements of two of my personal favourites, Aperol spritz and Negroni.

Makes 1 cocktail

Ingredients

1 ounce sweet vermouth

1 ounce Campari

Drizzle of honey

Sparkling rosé

1 navel orange peel twist

Ice

Fill a rocks glass halfway with ice and set aside. In a cocktail shaker, combine the vermouth, Campari, honey and a bit of ice. Shake gently and pour into the rocks glass. Top with the sparkling rosé, stir and garnish with the orange peel twist.

behind the story

PHOTO BY LIA CROWE

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