14 oz. Book

Copyright 2008 by Fourteen Ounce Berlin GmbH

foreword Dear readers, I am happy to present this book to you in order to mark the occasion of the opening of 14 oz. Berlin.

Many see me as the initiator of BREAD & BUTTER, those among you, who have known me longer, are aware that I am a retailer at heart. More than nine years ago now I opened the first 14 oz. in Cologne’s Ehrenstraße. From a natural self-appreciation I presented the brands there that I personally liked. The emphasis was on premium denim already back then. It was about “quality first“, good service and a harmonious collective concept – none of that has changed up until today. This book reminds of my store in Cologne, tells the exceptional story of the unique location in Berlin-Mitte and shows our visions of the new 14 oz., which has found a worthy home in this historic building. Not least we are introducing all the labels and the extraordinary people behind them, because they deserve it. All of them are strong characters, who are driven by their passion for the product, their work but also their environment. They motivate and inspire me – they are portrayed here, in very personal, fascinating stories.

The new 14 oz. should demonstrate my own feeling about the contemporary culture of dressing. In short: it is the quintessence of all that I personally like. So it’s no coincidence that words such as quality, tradition, manufacturing and authenticity are a reoccurring theme of the company profiles. It is my priority to dress our customers well. Style matters more to me than fashion. The “dernier cri“ is not important in the choice of the collections. Rather we want to contribute to our customers buying something in our store that they will be able to enjoy for a long time.

I wish you a great deal of pleasure while reading, and at this point would like to thank all those, who have made the formation of 14 oz. and this book possible.

Yours truly,

Karl-Heinz Müller

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14 oz. › 005 ‹

contents history

› 088 ‹

wrangler BLUE BELLA

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› 092 ‹

7 for all mankind

› 096 ‹

citizens of humanitiy

› 098 ‹

notify jeans

› 102 ‹

hollywood trading company

› 106 ‹

earnest sewn

the building

› 014 ‹ 14 oz. cologne

concept › 018 ‹

14 oz. berlin

› 110 ‹

denham

› 020 ‹

Architecture & Interior

› 114 ‹

jean shop

› 116 ‹

gilded age

› 118 ‹

Blue Blood

› 122 ‹

double m

› 124 ‹

dondup

exhibition › 030 ‹

f.c. gundlach

denim

menswear & ladies fashion

› 042 ‹

LEVI’S

› 130 ‹

DUNDERDON

› 056 ‹

kohzo

› 134 ‹

WHYSZECK

› 062 ‹

G-star

› 136 ‹

JOHNSON MOTORS

› 068 ‹

atelier LaDurance

› 140 ‹

NIGEL CABOURN

› 072 ‹

nudie JEANS

› 146 ‹

MAURO GRIFONI

› 078 ‹

prps

› 148 ‹

WHAT COMES AROUND GOES AROUND

› 084 ‹

Kuyichi

› 152 ‹

FIFTH AVENUE SHOE REPAIR

› 006 ‹

WHYRED

› 212 ‹

blundstone

› 160 ‹

PAUL & JOE SISTER

› 214 ‹

n.d.c. made by hand

› 164 ‹

CACHAREL

› 218 ‹

tricker‘s

› 168 ‹

CHAPTER TWO

› 220 ‹

bloch

› 170 ‹

PARKVOGEL

› 226 ‹

rubber duck

› 174 ‹

VIBE JOHANSSON

› 230 ‹

hunter

› 176 ‹

VELVET / GRAHAM & SPENCER

› 232 ‹

warmbat

› 178 ‹

ALICE SAN DIEGO / VENTI CAPPOTTI / VENTI CAPPELLI

› 180 ‹

ROBERTO COLLINA

sneakers

outerwear

› 236 ‹

converse

› 242 ‹

bensimon

› 184 ‹

woolrich

› 246 ‹

creative recreation

› 188 ‹

the north face

› 250 ‹

spring court

› 192 ‹

canada goose

› 252 ‹

tretorn

› 256 ‹

pf flyers

shoes › 196 ‹

red wing

accessories

› 202 ‹

alden

› 262 ‹

filson

› 206 ‹

clarks originals

› 264 ‹

gallo

› 210 ‹

shoo

› 266 ‹

piet breinholm

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14 oz.

› 156 ‹

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BUILDING 14 oz. COLOGNE

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history -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Back in the days ›› the building ‹‹ ››› The area of Berlin’s “Mitte” district today counts as one of the world’s hipster hotspots. Just as the whole city does, it looks back on an eventful past and the location of the 14 oz. store has had its fare share of “experiences” over time. A journey back into history begins... ‹‹‹

In the year 1737 Friedrich Wilhelm I. commands all Jews without a permanent home to move to the Scheunenviertel. The Jewish cemetery or the synagogue around Oranienburger Strasse still testify of the large, active community today.

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It is the year 1672. The “Alexanderplatz” of today is a cattle market and in order to house the hay for the animals, twentyseven barns are erected within its immediate vicinity. The area North of what is now “Dircksenstrasse” is given the name “Scheunenviertel”, meaning barn quarter. The simple buildings are primarily inhabited by farm workers and day labourers.

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During the period of industrialisation the number of residents in the quarter explodes. The small sectioned old buildings, narrow alleys and tiny courtyards become very crowded and due to being coordinated with the work shifts, are lived in by several parties at one time. Whoever is not working or sleeping lingers around the streets or spends their time in one of the numerous public houses.

The conditions in the area become catastrophic, the city commences the first rebuilding sanctions, and the social provisions are also to be improved.

An initiative is launched by the merchant Emil Minlos at the end of the 19th century. He is well

the building

› 011 ‹ “Architekturmuseum TU Berlin, Inv. Nr. 11902”

14 oz. history

connected with socio-political officials and politicians, who want to improve the conditions of the extremely poor inhabitants of the area. In Hamburg he has already erected several soup kitchens for the poor, and plans a public coffee house for Berlin to “promote the beneficial use of brandy and to give an example of an inexpensive and well balanced diet.”

He assigns Alfred Messel with the duty of conception. Born in 1853 as the son of a Jewish banker in Darmstadt, Messel studied at the Berlin Bauakademie (Berlin Building Academy) and is just gaining his first experiences as an architect. Later on, at the start of the 20th century, he is famously credited for having build the great “Wertheim” department stores.

By 1890 the time has come for Messel’s design of the Neue Schönhauser Strasse 13, a four-story house in the Renaissance style with two story bays, balustrades, two courtyards and an eatery on the ground floor, to evolve. The public coffee house is open all day, every day and on busily frequented days there are up to 2,000 guests. Separated into a men’s and women’s section warm lunches and dinners, as well as coffee and sandwiches are sold for a few pennies.

The coffee house is converted into Berlin’s first reading hall in 1895 and is free for all. The social concept does not survive the First World War and during the early 1920’s the once dignified house

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is renamed “Café Dalles” and begins to deteriorate into a racketeer’s den, henceforth it regularly delves into police records. The area is occupied by the underworld for many years as prostitution and crime become part of the daily grind in the “Scheunenviertel” area.

14 oz. history

After the Second World War the building in the Neue Schönhauser Strasse 13 is for a long period used as a warehouse, and during the GDR it reaches the verge of total decay, as does most of the area. By the demise of the socialist era the building has acquired memorial status and is elaborately renovated in the mid 1990’s.

As the first tenant the Italian restaurant “Schwarzen rabe” moves in, and number thirteen rapidly turns into an institution for Mitte hipsters, celebrities and tourists.

At the start of the new millennium the structural change within the area continues and more and more designer boutiques, mono label or flagship stores from the jeans and sportswear segment take over. Today Mitte is seen as one of the most inspiring and creative fashion hotspots in the world, the German capital has established its “new centre” – “Neue Mitte”.

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THE STORY BEGINS ›› 14 oz. Cologne ‹‹ ››› In the year 1999 a shop for denim and urbanwear is launched on Cologne’s Ehrenstrasse, a shopping mile for a young, creative audience from the areas of fashion, music and the media. Within a short time 14 oz. advances to Germany’s first address for lovers of high quality jeans, advanced streetwear and timeless classics and is among the top league of Europe’s stores in the blink of an eye. ‹‹‹

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The colourful mix of street fashion stores and small cafés, bars and cosy restaurants, in accord with sophisticated book- and furniture stores, is at this point almost unique in Germany. Fashion and lifestyle magazines quickly pronounce the Ehrenstrasse as “Germany’s number one trend mile”.

In the building number 66-68, where the store is based, most passers-by pronounce the name the way it is written on the sign above the entrance – “Vierzehn O Z”. Customers and aficionados know that it is called “Fourteen Ounce“ and that its name derives from the term for the material strength of denim. In the store itself everything revolves around trousers made of the indigo material –

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denim. With the opening of the 14 oz store KarlHeinz Müller finally fulfils the dream of opening his own store. After 15 years in the textiles business he changes over within the industry and moves into the realm of retail, previously having been at “Levi’s”, “Big Star”, “Marc O´Polo” and “Pepe Jeans London”. 14 oz. carries his unmistakable signature.

He arranges the interior and selection with his personal ideas of a good multi label store. “I wanted to create a shop, which I liked, where service and atmosphere were right and that reflected my love for denim and jeans brands,” Karl-Heinz Müller explains looking back.

Even back then he did not orientate himself ac-

14 oz. history

cording to fast paced trends and so led the way for a new consciousness of quality. “Levi’s Vintage Clothing”, “Red Wing”, “Dunderdon”, “Duffer of St. George”, “Evisu”, “Lee Originals”, “Pepe Jeans London”, “Maharishi”, “Woolrich”, “Converse” or “Blundstone” define the sharp profile. Terms such as “concept store” or “premium denim” have not yet manifested themselves at this time and Müller trusts his ’gut feeling’. “I didn’t follow a strict plan, everything developed naturally. The music that we enjoyed was played, concerning the service we realised our own definition of good employees and the best consultation. Very instinctively high grade jeans determined the selection, primarily raw qual-

ity denim.” These unwashed trousers were at the time what evoked one of many sensational stories about the 14 oz. store. Karl-Heinz Müller had bought up a dead stock lot and taken it to the Italian laundry “Martelli”, in order to have them finished according to his own concept. “Levi’s Red” and “Evisu” were among those brands that were doubtful in the beginning, which later however incorporated some of the washes into their collections. Animated by such successes, the thought of transmitting the philosophy and spirit of the 14 oz. to an industry platform and an off-show for selected brands, develops in a back room of the shop – thus the BREAD & BUTTER is born!

history › 015 ‹

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14 oz. berlin ARCHITECTURE & INTERIOR

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concept -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Welcome to a new dimension ›› 14 oz. Berlin ‹‹ ››› For Karl-Heinz Müller and his team service, consistency and quality are not a trend but have for years come naturally. 14 oz. offers its customers an overall concept, a shopping experience and invites a feeling of comfort and understanding. ‹‹‹

The wish to revive the old 14 oz., had long been in the back of Karl-Heinz Müller’s mind, and when the space became available, he didn’t hesitate for long. The timing was right, his passion and motivation were anyway. He contacted Marco Hartmann, who had previously managed 14 oz. in Cologne. He was immediately enthusiastic and moved from the Rhine to the Spree. “I was interested in the challenge of transferring the concept of the old 14 oz. to the capital in a new dimension.” As in Cologne quality and service are not empty words here, but have the upmost priority. The space, the trained employees, the collections – all these factors have the goal of conveying a certain feeling. “We cater

for customers who value a well-kept wardrobe and continuity. A piece from 14 oz. should become a natural favourite, a staple that will be worn for more than just one or two seasons,” explains Managing Director Marco Hartmann.

For the choice of brands care has been taken to offer options, which support an individual styling.

This is why the portfolio incorporates democratic brands as well as those in the higher price segment. For every area specialists were found, whose products combine authenticity and know how, labels with tradition and a demand for sustainability are given a high significance. The respect for

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she chooses their favourite style, matched by the patternmaker. The entire result will then be rounded off through the individual wash, pocket shapes, lining material, rivets and buttons. The fabrics stem from the best European and Japanese denim mills.

A “14 oz.” collection featuring timeless basics for men and women such as knits, jerseys and underwear is already being planned.

Individualism is supported and desired at 14 oz.

Thus in the near future a small factory will be built in the garden belonging to the store, in which tailormade jeans will be individually produced. The customer can experience an ambience between sewing machines and cutting tables where he or

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14 oz. Berlin › 019 ‹

14 oz. concept

Portrait marco hartmann, PHOTO BY UGUR ORHANOGLU

the value of the merchandise always being the focus, Hartmann and his team recommend specialist shoemakers and an alteration service for a whole carefree package. “Amongst other things we are cooperating with a dry cleaner that uses frozen nitrate on textiles. Soiling is virtually blasted away and the method is very gentle on the material.”

traditionally modern ›› Architecture & Interior ‹‹ ››› The location on the Neue Schönhauser Strasse 13 may well be described as the dream of every store creator.

In taking on such a project the history of the building demands the adequate respect for substance and matter, the short renovation period of three months adding a further challenge for Karl-Heinz Müller and his team. ‹‹‹

The overall concept has been contrived under the notion of the “new bourgeoisie”, meaning the return to values, precious materials and the charm of

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For the planning and implementation of the Berlin 14 oz. store the architects Ansgar Schmidt and Henning Ziepke were assigned, who have realised projects for Bread & Butter Holding for many years with their office “S1 Architektur” “It was important for us to maintain the dignity and character of the house. The high quality of the existing structure of the building and of the shop will be underlined by the value of the materials,” explains Henning Ziepke.

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authenticity. Thus the existing asphalt floor on the ground level was renewed and for the former “Engelsclub” on the lower ground floor, where today the vintage denim section is housed, original blue stone- and stately wooden flooring was imported from a specialist in Belgium. From The Netherlands the architects ordered hand finished “Hollandse Witte“ tiling, for the composition of the walls traditional silicate colours.

“We have created a specific room experience, where light plays a pivotal role,” Schmidt knows.

“We work with warm, indirect light everywhere, only the merchandise is accentuated by LED spots,

able to view herself without being disturbed, before presenting herself to her accompanier. For special guests there is a suite-like VIP area.

One of the particular highlights of the store is the sea water aquarium, which encompasses 6,000 liters of water and will hold fascinating jellyfish. As novelty that can only be marvelled in some zoos and aquariums. Specific pumps and water motion systems provide the necessary flow and dispense plankton. To guarantee the delicate animals’ safety and to see to it that everything is in order, an expert is immediately informed per SMS when the water’s quality changes.

Architecture & Interior › 021 ‹

14 oz. concept

Portrait Henning ZIEPKE, PHOTO BY UGUR ORHANOGLU

Portrait Ansgar Schmidt, PHOTO BY UGUR ORHANOGLU

which are integrated into the interior. An atmosphere of well-being and service are the focus at 14 oz.. Thus the locker room offers the opportunity to safely store shopping bags and coats in a personal compartment, during a visit to the store. The luxurious restrooms, which are available for customers to use on enquiry fulfil the highest standards, and on entering through the “Golden Room”, offer the viewer an almost illustrious touch. Special attention to detail was also emphasised when designing the spacious dressing rooms. They are all fitted with flattering side lighting and huge wall mirrors, the main attraction of the ladies’ being a hidden mirrored colonnade. Here the female customer is

For the interior of the 450 square meter large location several different approaches were experimented with. It wasn’t supposed to be sterile and standardised, but seem natural as if it had always been there. The hot tip ultimately came from the English designer Nigel Cabourn and so Karl-Heinz Müller, his family, Ansgar Schmidt and part of the team travelled to Paris, to the “Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen” in the North of the city to be exact.

tionately finished “récamiere” from the 18th century, a number of unfold able Triptyque mirrors, and as a special gem an oyster shaped basin with carp feet for the “Golden Room”.

At the stall of Radovan Haltuf the goal was reached a little closer. The native of Prague specialised in the restoration of antique lamps early on, his hobby being those from the Art Deco era. Twelve valuable pieces were selected, which have today found their place in the individual columns within the space.

One lamp inspired Karl-Heinz Müller especially: “Le Muller et ses danceuses” – “The miller and his dancers”, the beautiful piece today inhabits the home of the man in charge.

The largest market of the city holds over 2,000 stalls all in all and offers a walking distance of at least 15 kilometres. Where if not here should one not discover suitable items for the store? Between masses of bric-a-brac and junk the Berlin hunters and gatherers found valuable bits and pieces aplenty, such as American flags from the 19th century, heavy wooden tables with wheels, an affec-

In the flea market café “Chez Louisette” the group settled for a break and listened to chansonette

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14 oz. concept Architecture & Interior › 023 ‹

Manuela, who sang Edith Piaf songs enthusiastically and caused high spirits all round. Those who know Karl-Heinz Müller are aware that when he likes something, he doesn’t rest until he has turned an idea into practice. And so the charming mid fifty year old and her accordion accompaniment were hired on the spot to play at the 14 oz. opening.

and made an appointment. Sometimes life itself writes the most beautiful and touching stories. And so it happened that the Berliners found the perfect interior in the Rue d’Argenteuil, a small side street of the pretentious fashion mile Rue Saint-Honoré.

Monsieur Agabeyan, the master of this picturesque world, in which time seemed to have stood still, had taken over the shop from his three cousins.

Since the 1950’s the trio had sold their luxurious Couture fabrics, among them real treasures, to the spoiled clientele. Fashion greats such as Yves Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel and Louis Féraud had at one point frequented the shop.

The search went on to the antique dealer “Ghislain”.

Two leather armchairs from the 1920’s, a few glass cabinets and a huge church tower clock, however the great handle or grip had not yet been found.

The dealer Ghislain turned out to be extremely ambitious and would not let up. He had an idea, which concerned an elderly couple that had a fabric shop in the first arrondissement and were forced to give it up on account of their age. Karl-Heinz Müller saw a few photographs, was immediately enthusiastic

Fabric shelves and positioning tables showed themselves in remarkably good shape. The 14 oz. team bought the shop in its entirety. Although the

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14 oz. concept Architecture & Interior › 025 ‹

couple were at first gloomy about the farewell, they were eventually overjoyed about having their life’s work live on in a fashion context in Berlin. Without further ado, Karl-Heinz Müller invited the pair to the opening in Berlin, and the Paris shop sign “Agabeyan Frères” has found a place of honour at the 14 oz. premises.

in the Provence, and now lends the Berlin courtyard a Southern European flair.

“It was important to me that the store felt like it had always been there,” explains Karl-Heinz Müller.

“I want customers to feel comfortable and enjoy spending time here, that they are entertained and take a positive experience back home with them.”

All shelves and tables from Paris were carefully replenished and now cover the walls of the new 14 oz.

The shop sign was produced with the Agabeyan’s company sign in mind in an Art Deco style. Thus inspiration was found en masse on the trip to France.

And so the terrace lined with box trees and white shrubs, belonging to the store, reminds a little of the city by the Seine. The crowning centre of the almost 600 square meter large garden is a three meter high fountain, which Karl-Heinz Müller found

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14 oz. concept Architecture & Interior › 027 ‹

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F.C. GUNDLACH

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exhibition -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Berlin Chic ›› BY F.c. Gundlach ‹‹ ››› After 50 years Franz Christian Gundlach the photographer, collector, founder and curator is regarded as one of the most outstanding people within the contemporary arts. His sensitive portraits and especially his fashion photography made him world-renowned. For the opening of the 14 oz. store in Berlin the veteran and icon of German fashion photography presents some of his most beautiful work and at this point reminisces back to his beginnings in 1950’s Berlin. ‹‹‹

Fashion designers such as Gehringer & Glupp, Staebe-Seger, Heinz Oestergaard, Uli Richter, Hermann Schwichtenberg, Lindenstaedt & Brettschneider as well as the House of Horn were the popular kings of the fashion world. Star manne-

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“During the 1950’s the ‘Durchreise’ – meaning the ‘journey through’ – was the fifth season in Berlin.

All the fashion houses of the city presented their new collections to the world. Fashion designers, fashion editors, models and fashion photographers populated the Kurfürstendamm and the Avus for weeks on end, and shoots were photographed in the studios day and night.

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quins such as Susanne Erichsen, who was the first Miss Germany and would promenade up and down the Ku’damm with her Afghan dogs, were its uncrowned queens.

In the salons of the grand villas premieres were celebrated before a selected audience on delicate golden chairs and red silk sofas behind heavy velvet curtains. As in the golden 1920’s when the Hausvogteiplatz was the centre of the German fashion industry - by the end of the decade Berlin fashion had gained a reputation the world over and its own elegant, cool style – ‘Berlin chic’.

However, then came the Nazis: the influence of

f.c. gundlach

› 031 ‹ “Neue Perspektiven”, suit by S&E – Uli Richter, Berlin 1957, in “Film und Frau Modeheft H/W 1957/58”

14 oz. exhibition

› 032 ‹ Biene, summer dress by Horn, Berlin 1955, in: “Film und Frau 13/1955”

tributed parts of them to seamstresses, who then completed elaborate tailoring at home. They had an unbelievable quality. The seamstresses could embroider an entire dress with pearl beads and sewed the finest seams by hand, all elements that are essential to haute couture.

Naturally Paris reassumed its position as the fashion capital after the war, yet the Berlin fashion industry also quickly returned, ‘this decorative and powerful industry, which serves beauty, without factories, chimneys or railway siding,’ as Heinz Mohr, chairman of the West-Berlin women’s appar-

Only its infrastructure remained: the ‘overseers companies’, an original Berlin concept. The fashion designers gave assignments to overseers, who dis-

f.c. gundlach › 033 ‹

14 oz. exhibition

“Christa im Abendkleid vor dem SchloSS Charlottenburg”, model by Lindenstaedt & Brettschneider, Berlin 1959

“P – RankestraSSe” Biggi, suit with mink trim by Uli Richter, Berlin

the ‘Parisian prostitute’ and the German ‘Textile Jew’ were to be gotten rid of, and instead traditional costume such as the ‘Trachtenkleid’ and the ‘Haarkranz’ – coiled hair plaits - were decreed. As early as 1933 the big exodus occurred. All the Berlin fashion houses, eighty percent of which were Jewish businesses, were Arianised, the owners dispossessed, banished and murdered. Berlin fashion no longer existed.

“Im Fahrerlager auf der Avus”, Ingeborg Prinz, Berlin 1962

Judy Dent, dark mink coat by Saga, Avus Berlin 1962

el industry, describes. The decentralised production was its main strength and the guarantee for individual couture of the highest level. The fashion designers settled around the Ku’damm once again and immediately began with the production for the occupant soldiers and their ladies. The photographs returned, as did the salons – and the quality was soon on a par with Paris.

In 1947 Christian Dior created the ‘New Look’ and became world famous over night. His defiant return to a very feminine vision of a woman with a narrow waist and wide skirt fell on fertile ground after such barren times, and resulted in the most splendid flowers.

I sometimes felt like a storyteller then, as a fashion photographer in post-war Germany: I knew that the readers of the fashion magazines couldn’t afford the dresses. However, they liked looking at them, they dreamed of beauty and elegance and took them as a source of inspiration. They visited seamstresses and had the dresses copied. But on

My teacher Rolf Werner Nehrdich belonged to the photographers who were based around the Ku’damm before the war. He always told me about what he had experienced. As a result he injected me with a Berlin as well as a fashion virus.

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f.c. gundlach

› 035 ‹ “Apés Ski auf der Avus”, trouser suit by Staebe-Seger, Berlin 1956, in “Film und Frau Modeheft F/S 1956”

14 oz. exhibition

› 036 ‹ “Cary Grant. Ein Star geht zum Ball”, Berlin 1960, in “Film und Frau 16/1960”

specialist employees – and that was the end of Haute Couture in Berlin.

I photographed for ‘Film und Frau’ at the time, and we also moved to Berlin twice a year for three weeks with our editorial team, producing our larger editions there during the fashion shows – up until the building of the wall. This meant a loss of 7,000

F.C. Gundlach, Hamburg, June 2008.

Edited by Sebastian Lux.

Nonetheless, it was a magnificent time and a very important chapter in Berlin’s fashion history!”

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f.c. gundlach › 037 ‹

14 oz. exhibition

Grit Hübscher with white fox stole by Staebe-Seger, Berlin 1955, in “Film und Frau 18/1955”

“Die Abendsilhouette”, Antonia, model by Schwichtenberg – Berlin, Hamburg 1963, in: Film und Frau Modeheft H/W 1963/64

the other hand the Berlin fashion houses quickly managed to export overseas again. Their customers came from Switzerland, Sweden, Norway and sometimes bought half a collection at once. It was quite exclusive in that way, as no dress was sold to two different cities.

ARTIST BIOGRAPHY

Starting in 1949 he releases mainly theatre and film reportages in magazines such as “FunkIllustrierte“,“Film-Revue“ and “Gong“, as a freelance photographer. Later he moves on to star portraits, reportages and fashion spreads for the illustrated magazines “Elegante Welt“,“Deutsche Illustrierte“,“Quick“ and “Stern“. In 1950 his first trip takes him to Paris and one year later he has his first exhibtiion there at the “Librairie Jean Robert“.

Within the same year F.C. Gundlach starts an intensive working relationship with the magazine “Film und Frau” in Hamburg and fashion becomes the centre of his work. For this magazine, a “Dream in Brown and Gold”, he photographs the creations of German fashion designers especially during the Berlin “Durchreise” - the “journey through” - and the Paris Haute Couture. His photographs amount to more than one hundred covers and 2,500 fashion pages until 1966. Within the category “Filmstars in Mode” he photographs multi-faceted fashion reports and portraits of Romy Schneider, Jean-Luc Godard, Dieter Borsche and many others.

Over the following years F.C. Gundlach especially photographs the work of German fashion design-

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F.C. Gundlach is born in Heinebach/Hessen in 1926 and attends the „Private Lehranstalt für Moderne Lichtbildkunst“ under Rolf W. Nehrdich in Kassel from 1947 to 1949.

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ers, the Berlin “Durchreise” – the “journey through”– and the Paris Haute Couture. Particularly post-war Berlin is a source of inspiration for him and defines the focus of the young fashion photographer time and again. Within the scope of his magazine work F.C. Gundlach travels to the Middle and Far East as well as South America and Africa. In 1963 he signs an exclusive contract with the magazine “Brigitte” and photographs more than 180 covers and 5,000 fashion pages until 1983.

In 1975 F.C. Gundlach founds the “PPS. Galerie“ where he presents more than 100 exhibitions by highly renowned photographers such as Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Nan Goldin and Wolfgang Tillmans. In 1986 F.C. Gundlach turns to primarily mediating photography as a curator, publisher and collector. In 2000 he establishes the “Stiftung F.C. Gundlach“ with the goal of preserving and presenting his collection “Das Bild des Menschen in der Photographie“ as well as his own work.

Since September 2003 F.C. Gundlach is the founding director of the “Haus der Photographie, Deichtorhallen Hamburg“, which has taken on his collection as a permanent loan. The current exhibition there, curated by Klaus Honnef, Hans-Michael Koetzle, Sebastian Lux and Ulrich Rüter, is “F.C. Gundlach. Das fotografische Werk“, the most extensive retrospective of F.C. Gundlach’s accomplishment to date.

f.c. gundlach

› 039 ‚ portrait F.C. Gundlach, Hamburg 2002 Photo by Esther Haase

14 oz. exhibition

LEVI’S kohzo G-star atelier LaDurance nudie JEANS prps Kuyichi wrangler BLUE BELLA 7 for all mankind citizens of humanity notify jeans hollywood trading company earnest sewn denham jean shop gilded age Blue Blood double m dondup

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A legend lives on ›› Levi’s ‹‹ ››› How does one get closer to an icon? Very simple, you slip inside, fasten a few buttons and become a part of it.

There are not many brands in the world that can look back on such an eventful past as Levi’s can. The mother of all jeans is still up to date, versatile and manages to surprise in its third century. How everything began... ‹‹‹

Initially concentrating on workwear, Levi’s expands its concepts at the turn of the 20th Century and directs its attention to new target groups. Inspired by the heroes of the Western hype, the label designs the first pants for women in 1930. This revolution of female fashion consciousness also triggers a huge buzz within the media. Vogue entitles

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In the year 1873 the company founder Levi Strauss invents rough pants made of denim – the blue jean is born. Seventeen years later the finished items of clothing are given production numbers for the first time, and “501” is used as the identifying feature of the famous copper-riveted “Waist Overalls”.

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the new women’s jean an absolute “must have”.

Musicians and actors of the 1950’s such as James Dean and Marlon Brando advance to symbols of non-conformity with their jeans-shades-turtleneckstyle, and so create the picture of the anti-establishment. Levi’s becomes a symbol of the teenager revolution over night and in the 1960’s the “MakeLove-Not-War”-generation combines the Levi’s bellbottom with their insubordinate mood.

By the legendary “Woodstock Festival” the pathos of rebellion is firmly interwoven into every single piece of blue fabric. Punks, skaters and surfers interpret the pants individually, sometimes with

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a ripped string vest, a Hawaiian shirt or worn out “Converse Chucks”.

The jeans have long since become socially acceptable and are today a staple part of every wardrobe – the myth of freedom seemingly sticking with it into eternity. At any rate Levi’s is well prepared to be a part of that eternity.

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From Rogue to Vogue ›› Levi’s Vintage Clothing ‹‹ ››› At the end of the 19th century hard working miners and gold washers, but also rogues, day labourers and all manner of dubious characters were among the first customers of the then still young business Levi’s. Today the majority of in the know denim fans are enthusiastic about replicas of the most original pieces of the brand. ‹‹‹

In 1999 Levi’s decided to render homage to exactly these models, thereby reviving the beginnings of the brand, and so “Levi’s Vintage Clothing” was

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The Levi’s archive in San Francisco is legendary.

Since 1989 old pieces have been collected meticulously, “new” vintage styles are acquired consistently, their history researched, fakes are analysed and finally treasures are locked away in fire resistant safes. Lynn Downey and her team, who have been looking after the collection for years, never get bored, as there are always new pieces cropping up in garages, mines or flea markets, which have an exciting story to tell.

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launched. Season after season one to one replicas of classic work pants, shirts and jackets are redesigned in small limited edition numbers, and small details such as rivets, buttons, seams or patches are painstakingly reproduced. The valuable fabric crafted on original looms and later brought to Italy to be washed or alternatively consigned as rigid models “made in the US”.

The styles, whose dedicated fanbase of collectors is constantly growing, give a witness account of long gone days. For example, the models produced during the world economic crisis, saved on the denim in the inside of the pockets, and due to the

thread sparseness the arcuate stitching was replaced with a painted on eagle’s wing. However the reanimated styles of “Levi’s Vintage Clothing” do not only give information about the decades, but allow for speculation about the previous wearer as well. Sometimes a hole is mended, a tear underlayed with a piece of denim, at times the pockets are baggy, and at others the knees are grazed.

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Additionally within the frame of every collection the Celebration Package encompassing very special customary finds in a quantity of “501” pieces is released. Recently a pair of jeans was reproduced, which was found in 2001 and estimated as dating back to 1875. The pants come as a package with a reproduced shirt from the 1920’s. At the time produced by the Levi’s subbrand Sunset, the current model features the original logo, classic button stay and shopworn used look. The combination is completed with the reproduction of a weathered canvas rucksack, a “Levi’s Vintage Clothing” look which once again illustrates how timelessly hip subtlety and authenticity can be even in our trend focused times.

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An original stays original ›› Levi’s 501 Jeans ‹‹ ››› It is not just for any reason that “501’s” are the most copied piece of any clothing brand in the world. They are ultimately the oldest, and the first to ever place a logo in the spotlight, and surely one of the few, that several generations and tastes could agree on simultaneously. And that although the recipe to success is not witchcraft. ‹‹‹

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As everybody knows, what you cannot see but can imagine is sexier than what is on display. Holding the impression of the body within, yet revealing the body without express intention, Levi’s “501” jeans have and always had an uncanny ability to silhouette sensuality. This is all thanks to their unique cut. The ultimate straight leg jean, “501” are tailored in what experts call an “anti-fit” pattern.

In essence, the rise is cut in a straight line, which makes the jean wrap around the butt effortlessly even if paradoxically, not in a perfect way. Levi’s “501” jeans are shrink-to-fit. This means that they are cut into a pattern and sewn before they are washed in order to obtain the desired end result.

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The more you wear them, the better they suit you.

By now more than four billion Levi’s “501” jeans have been sold throughout the world, making it the garment worn by the largest number of people in the world across generations and continents.

And a new, young crowd of denim aficionados is on its way to discovering the timeless style of “501” for themselves. The 2008 Levi’s “501” jeans collection features over 50 different shades - from dark rigid to light sun-faded. This Autumn/Winter season Nicola Formichetti, Creative Director of magazines “Dazed and Confused” and “Another”, gave his very own emotional interpretation of “501’s” in the now.

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The result is sleak, unpretentious and pure by nature. And as in past generations “501’s” probably match the zeitgeist so perfectly for that exact reason. Because really it is very easy to play along in the upper leagues: just stay true to your Original!

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Stay different ›› Levi’s Red Tab ‹‹ ››› When Marilyn Monroe swung her hip lasciviously in a pair of “501’s” for the first time walking down the street, it caused some of the passers-by to hold their breath - some out of awe and others out of dismay. Coco Chanel, Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo also wore the orginally male trouser with a coquettish subtlety and sexiness, thereby defying current conventions of the time. Today “Red Tab” proves that rebellion never goes out of fashion... ‹‹‹

“Levi’s Red Tab” fabricates influences of the most varied subcultures, be it mod, punk, rock, disco, skate or grunge. The casual jeans, jackets, tees and shirts reflect the voice of a generation, which is in constant movement and creates its very own “now” out of the multifaceted offerings of the present and the achievements of the past.

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Today the modern versions of these first lateral thinkers stand for the “Red Tab Girls” line. The line orientates itself towards all the investigating, passionate, ever rebellious ladies of the world. And its male counterpart “Red Tab Guys” is no less spontanious, experimental and obstinate.

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Flexibility and freespirited-ness are essential to this, clique dogmas and most of all the individual, unprejudiced creativity and attitude awake a customary style of living.

One of the highlights of each collection are the collaborations with young, up and coming graphic artists from all over the world, whose T-shirt prints inspire this lifestyle. Thus Klaus Haapaniemi, Lennard Schuurmans in the past, or currently the London based graphic artist Danny Sangra prove that it will always be possible to break unconventional new ground.

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The music sounds better with you ›› Levi’s ‹‹ ››› Elvis Presley wore the brand in his first name and swung his hips in blue jeans, Kurt Cobain died in his 501’s and Bruce Springsteen was probably born in his – the correlation between the cult brand and the world of music is not merely a flirt – it is a larger than life love story. ‹‹‹

Thus the “Levi’s Club Tour” in Germany, Austria and Switzerland caters for packed venues and sweaty

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Who doesn’t remember the wildly teetering Flat Eric aka Mr. Oizo or the move-your-ass sounds of Shaggy’s “Mr.Boombastic”? Also “Underwater Love” by Smoke City or “Spaceman” by Babylon Zoo were made into lasting guests of the international billboard charts through their presence in Levi’s television ads. For decades the Levi’s music liaison has stood in full bloom. Since television ads have reverted into the background during the course of the 21st century, the American label has focused more on real world activities.

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dance excesses. With acts such as “Uffie”, “Punks Jump Up” or “Shitdisco” the makers of the tour demonstrate a sure bet. Last year Levi’s Scandinavia organised a band contest in collaboration with VICE Magazine. “La Puma” from Sweden managed to win against 350 other contestants, ended up with a contract under “Nightlife/Universal”, and is now touring around the globe with a fresh album.

On the British Isles – renowned as the number one band hotbed – Levi’s is involving themselves with the project “Levi’s Ones to Watch”, regularly organising contests and gigs. Established names such as “The Pigeon Detectives”, “Editors”, “The Wom-

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bats”, “Arctic Monkeys” or “Foals” contended their first live gigs aided by Levi’s.

In the future the gateway between live and web is to be real world activities and Internet platforms.

Analogue and digital are being pushed further.

Since 2007 the homepage www.red-tab.com is used as an online magazine and info-source. Here up to date news about artists, as well as interviews, tour dates and games are available. Levi’s knows how to disco, rock, and electrify.

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Feeling good in feeling blue ›› Levi’s Blue ‹‹ ››› Even for the most hard-boiled fashionistas there comes a point when understatement replaces over the top styling and in your face looks. Since 2005 Levi’s has dedicated the premium concept “Blue” to this demand, with a quintessential denim aesthetic for consumers who have discovered the quiet luxury for themselves. ‹‹‹

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Extravagant cashmere cardigans, razor-sharp cut leather jackets, soft jersey shirts and nonchalant bottoms are just as easily found in the biannual released line, as much as timeless basics and multi-interpretable accessories. Levi’s Blue defines itself through a grown-up and subtle approach, which allows for breaks, without celebrating loudly. The items of clothing unveil their impact through the personality and the styling know how of their wearer. You Nguyen, Senior Vice President of “Levi’s Product”, explains the line as follows: “‘Levi’s Blue’ unites the constant search for the ultimate, contemporary style with a confident, utilitarian appreciation – a contrast, which in my opinion

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reflects perfectly the wishes of young Europeans for a characteristically but at the same time tough and urban fashion style.”

The cuts of the range for women and men are primarily simple and casual, abstaining from being too striking. High wearing comfort, exclusive quality and soft bestowing of colour are the focus.

That the origin and experiences of the brand are woven into every single piece of clothing, goes without saying. The sophisticated positioning of the range is reflected in the choice of exclusive retailers not least due to the sleekly conceptualised communication of the line. Thus top models

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such as Eddie Klint, Anna Marija Urajevskaya or Roc Montandon are posing for the cameras, who regularly lend their beautiful images to “Prada”, “Chanel” or “Jil Sander”. In the past seasons Josh Olins, who previously gave a new shine to brands such as “Burberry” and “Aquascutum” photographed the look books.

In order to underpin the independence of the “Blue” concept, the temporary “Levi’s Blue” stores opened in Stockholm, Amsterdam, Antwerp and Cologne, and were used as a rink for the ideology LEVI’S BLUE

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of the line. In Cologne for instance, the synergy of the local art scene was sought out under the theme “fashion meets art”. In Stockholm a concept store with books, cosmetics and records was created in collaboration with the top dog fashion collective “Nitty Gritty”. And they arrived to all openings, the desired “Blue” customers – cosmopolitan nomads for who art, music, architecture and literature are every day elements, and who are looking for clothing, not a costume – those in the know!

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THINKING DENIM DIFFERENTLY ›› kohzo ‹‹ ››› Modesty is a virtue and we were almost inclined to do Shauket Imam a favour and not to mention him in the text, as he had desired. “I am nobody, it’s all about the product”, he accentuates continuously in conversation. But how do you explain an ingenious product without the genius behind it? ‹‹‹

Born into a multicultural industrialist family, with Persian, Asian and European roots, he graduated in textile engineering and fashion design in the UK, his passion for the blue fabric starting from a very early age. There could be several reasons, but his education during the “Flower Power” period, which he calls the “denim revolution”, as well as having

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Shauket is an exceptional person, which should quickly become clear to anyone who has ever heard the charismatic self made man speak about his visions and experiences. Having worked in the fashion industry for over 35 years, he seems to be obsessed by his work.

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parents involved in the textiles industry have undoubtedly played a big role in his career.

After completing his education he was selected by the giants of denim production “Cone Mills”, “Burlington” as well as European machine manufacturers in cooperation with “Levi’s”. He was to research and freshen up the new era of “501’s” in the late 1970’s, keeping the traditional value of the 1922 “501”, in combination with the modern technology of the time. This was when Shauket realised that this blue uniform fascinated him more than any other fabric.

After completing this project and learning every-

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thing about the product from the fibre to the completed jeans, he advanced to a consultant and product developer for various companies from South America via Europe to Taiwan, always having the idea of his own brand in the back of his mind.

population have at least one pair of jeans and it’s growing every day.”

However, denim is also the most poisonous fabric in the world, with no other fabric being comparable.

The reasons are as Shauket explains: “When mass producing, we become very greedy, and try to make the product as cheap as possible, but its value is forgotten, respect, tradition and so called environmental, ecological and human health are ignored.

Denim uses maximum energy, maximum consumption of water, produces maximum water waste and maximum chemicals are used for the washing and treatments of the fabric. When we realised all this and the cost to overcome it, we started to push this product to the so-called Third world or undeveloped countries, instead of teaching them our mistakes we are using this knowledge to educate them. If I am not wrong 60-70 percent of denim is produced in South America, Asia and Africa.”

When he finally began with the concept of Kohzo in the late 1990’s, it was very difficult to find backers, who would understand his vision and philosophy and share his ways of thinking. Shauket’s idea: high grade designer jeans with the most exclusive and unusual finishes and entirely “eco”, or as the designer likes to phrase it “natural”.

From the cotton plant to the finishing everything should have one credo: caring about nature and human rights and above all to treat all things with due respect. He wanted to take into consideration all the things he had seen and learnt during his work and prove to himself that it is possible to make a product, take care of tradition, nature, the environment, health, abstain from the use of sweat shop- or child labour, all whilst using tomorrow’s technology.

That explains why Shauket has based his company in the two most critical countries of the world, Switzerland and Japan: “First of all I want to be sure that what I am doing is controlled and my vision and statement is followed without having any doubts. Secondly, I want to prove to myself and to my friends that it is possible to mass produce in a respectful way, whilst being able to make a living at the same time.”

“For me it was always important to do something that satisfied me, and do something globally for today’s world,” he mentioned during our conversation and adds: “Denim today is a pair of trousers, which has become the leading dress code of the world and the most popular fashion trend, regardless of rich or poor, young or old. According to the current world statistic about 67.8 percent of the world

Until today Shauket has not lost any of his enthusiasm. With the founding of Kohzo it was his goal

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to produce 10,000 jeans per season, by now it is over 20,000. The citizen of the world spends half of the year in the introspective “Frauenfeld” near Zurich in Switzerland, where the family business and Shauket’s family are based, and the logistics and some creation and development take place.

For all production operations and material developments he travels to Kyoto, where all pieces of the collection are manufactured. The cotton that is used grows in controlled crops in Zimbabwe on high land, no chemicals are used for fertilisation, and all cotton is naturally ripened and hand picked.

The development period of a new product is about two years until it is finally ready to go on the market, and every detail and treatment is carefully thought through.

The company and the brand got its name from the mulberry tree, which translates as “Kohzo” in Japanese. Among other materials, the heavy-duty paper “Washi” is produced from it, which was used hundreds of years ago for making Kimonos. A combination of 70% cotton and 30% Washi is used for one design, which is permanently available in the Kohzo collection. However, this is not enough for Shauket.

All kinds of natural and high tech materials, as well as environmentally safe fibres can also be found in the range, some of the examples being bamboo, cannabis, linen and hibiscus, to name a few.

For dyeing Kohzo uses natural leaf indigo from Japan, traditional hand- and rope dye, natural pig-

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ment, vegetables, minerals, fruits and mud. For finishing and treatment, natural resin, salt and many kinds of local natural ingredients are utilised. Most of the denim is sun dried to save energy.

Shauket Imam loves to experiment. He finds his ideas and inspirations for Kohzo outdoors, in gardens, temples and on the road. Think of cowboys deep in meditation. Imagine a Buddhist temple in the Wild West.

In this way, the denim label combines Western and Eastern tradition.

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Not to mention the fact that his jeans are quite famous among top celebrities the world over, intellectuals, writers, singers, royal families, politicians and athletes. Nonetheless, Shauket does not think much of the hype of VIP’s, and in his view Kohzo should not become a celebrity jean.

The 62 years old explains the reason of why he chose the absolute luxury segment to launch the brand as follows. “If you want to change people’s thinking and you want to get your message across you have to start from the top.”

It is not hard to believe the man with a master plan, as ultimately it has always been the lateral thinkers who have changed the world.

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Some like it Raw ›› G-Star ‹‹ ››› Over the years there has hardly been a label in the areas of streetwear and denim, which has succeeded in installing such a strong and significant corporate identity as G-Star has. For the Dutch brand it is all about functionality, design, pureness and an unmistakable style. ‹‹‹

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From its conception in 1989, G-Star has been known for its innovative and cutting edge style in the world of denim. Pushing the boundaries, continuous experimentation and product development have lead to a strong following worldwide. “Just the product” has always been G-Star’s philosophy. The key to success? Their very own design language and aesthetic, that can be found in all aspects of the brand; starting from the impressive headquarters in Amsterdam, to the extraordinary fashion shows, the mono brand stores and of course the clothes themselves. “Raw” and above all raw denim are the focal point of the collection, with seasonal themes and capsule collections completing the

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offer. That form must follow function has always been the evident device for head of design Pierre Morisset and his team.

Over a period of nearly 20 years, multiple product breakthroughs resulted in G-Star evergreens such as the “Elwood”, numerous fashion awards and an ambition that is larger than ever before.

Being a denim brand rooted in streetwear and driven by the mission to add luxury to the street, G-Star launched the “NY Raw” special edition last year. This capsule collection, inspired by the runway pieces shown during “New York Fashion Week”

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consists of around twelve selected couture denim pieces that are available in-store.

and intent within a variety of mind style areas the brand is passionate about: from product reengineering to “RAW” art installations and from “RAW” music nights to infotainment fashion shows.

In-house graphic and interior designers define the uniform G-Star signature. More than 5,300 points of sale in 70 countries already transmit the concept, leading to the 100th G-Star mono brand store opening in Moscow in February 2008. More store launches are set to follow over the course of the next few years.

DNA design experiments such as “RAW Defender” in cooperation with “Land Rover”, “RAW Ferry” – the 1927 “Central Station” ferry that was given a complete makeover by G-Star’s interior team and is now the luxury canal boat “RAW Ferry 01” - and the “RAW Cannondale”, which was launched this January with the American premium bike producer - are examples of G-Star’s passion for product craftsmanship. Musical activities such as G-Star “RAW Nights” on the other hand form entertainment platforms that offer emotional value to people. The careful selection of curators involved in G-Star’s

What most consumers do not know is that G-Star’s philosophy and approach towards design goes far beyond fashion, resulting in interesting collaborations with brands that share G-Star’s core values: “pure”, “original” and “unexpected”. These “RAW Crossover” concepts convey G-Star’s expertise

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brand activities - from Hiromix and Dennis Hopper to Duran Duran - are an open invitation to G-Star’s global audience to share mental values and have an original and open dialogue with the brand.

saw, a shovel, an old-fashioned floor lamp, a fire extinguisher and even a concrete mixer. These handcrafted objects are used in G-Star fashion shows, at events, collection presentations and for window dressing in all G-Star stores worldwide. For the opening of the first mono brand store in New York for example, models with handcrafted objects wandered the streets of the Big Apple wearing 1920’s style denim costumes. The “handcrafted costumes” are created as an homage to designers, to past times and to the influence both have had on fashion. Made from raw denim, the dresses,

The special series of “handcrafted objects” are yet another way for G-Star to display their expertise and craftsmanship skills as well as their challenge to continuously explore the richness of the most pure and functional material: denim. The series consists of several expressive, non-fashion related objects, wrapped in raw denim including a chain-

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uniforms and accessories are inspired by fashion icons such as “Coco Chanel”, “Pierre Cardin”, and “Christian Dior”, or by a certain era or theme with a direct relation to fashion.

est styles from the “NY Raw Special Edition” and some collection highlights made the fair visitor familiar with G-Star’s unique signature style.

And what’s new on the product side? To complete the range G-Star launched “Raw Footwear” in collaboration with “Overland Shoes” last year, and a small capsule underwear collection for women and men will be introduced in July 2008. Never one to follow the crowd. Head to toe – just the product…

Whoever is now thinking, wow! That should all be presented in an exhibition, it already happened...

For their launch on the Japanese market G-Star physically showcased its passion for product craftsmanship, among an international design oriented audience from different fields, during “Tokyo Designer’s Week” in November 2007. Entering into its in-house made pavilion, exhibitors, press and visitors stepped into an infotainment environment.

The immediate visual impact generated by the glass pavilion symbolised accessibility. It triggered the visitor’s curiosity and communicated openness.

Handcrafted objects, waxed denim coats, the new-

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Les Baux de Provence ›› Atelier LaDurance ‹‹ ››› For all denim demoniacs this will probably be an old hat, but for all the less blue blooded we would herewith like to abduct to the picturesque French Provence, to be exact, to Saint-Remy-de-Provence. Here, amid lavender fields and vineyards, design studio Atelier LaDurance was founded in 2002, since when all employees can affirm that they work in an environment where other people usually spend their holiday. ‹‹‹

As a vintage denim collector, Atelier LaDurance founder Gerard Backx gained an enormous expertise over time. Living in “Le massive des Alpilles”

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The village is located not far from the city of Nîmes – famous for manufacturing the “Serge de Nîmes” cloth that was used during the Californian gold rush of the 1850’s to make durable trousers for the miners. And which later became known as denims or jeans. So it is actually no surprise that the styles coming from this delightful spot show a strong know-how in denim aesthetics besides the sereneness, tranquillity and spirit the French sum up with the expression “laissez-faire”.

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in Provence, he is not influenced by the trends and flows of the big city. “It usually all starts with a factory sending me a fabric swatch of a newly developed high level Japanese fabric and a trip to the atelier to work on some new stitch colours and it just rolls on from there”, he explains.

Articulating a well-considered choice the smallscale brand capitalises on quality, instead of quantity and cultivates the passionate drive by creating top crafted products based upon stylistic durability and emotion. And the concept is as simple as can be: the best is barely good enough!

As in architecture, tailoring is about proportions,

materials and functionality. Atelier LaDurance only offers unwashed denim products in 11oz and 14oz that get a natural weathered appearance over time and stand out by rich and distinctive detailing. The very limited number of pieces that are all hand made are mostly designed in a clean, reduced 1940’s workwear look. All styles are produced in rare first choice quality denim, manufactured in the century old weaving process and indigo dyed.

All Atelier LaDurance denim products are designed with the legendary ‘crosspatch’ pocket, consisting of four individual pieces of denim stitched together with dual-coloured thread. A refined detail that only becomes visible through frequent wear, giving the garment its own individual character and unique personality.

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Most of the details are developed purely as a practical point with the kind of logical simplicity one

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will find deeply rooted in the French aesthetic of every day life. Keeping it “très français” all men’s jeans are equipped with blue Vichy check lining, and the girl’s with the red equivalent. On each Atelier LaDurance denim product you will find a ‘Repair Capsule’, containing two original 2-color brass buttons, a small piece of denim, a small piece of pocket lining plus a thimble – exactly what you need to carry out your own emergency repairs. Cashmere sweaters, hoodies, tees, leather belts and bags, not to forget a children’s line, complete the fine range.

The Atelier LaDurance concept is developed without the use of marketing strategies or with target groups in mind. It is this specific small-scale context based upon passion that builds, a personal relationship directly with the shops that sell and the people who buy the product. Or as Gerard puts it: “There are, were and always will be people who can judge a product purely on its initial qualifications and the skilled craftsmanship it is built with.”

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The Naked Truth about Denim ›› Nudie jeans ‹‹ ››› The jeans from the house of Nudie Jeans do not want to reveal any less than the truth, and the whole truth about the life of their carrier. ‚Here I always carry my cigarettes, there my keychain, here I got caught on a fence...’

Anyone who has ever repaired their favourite jeans a thousand times until finally having to carry them to their grave, will understand the philosophy. ‹‹‹

Since Maria started Nudie Jeans in 2001, the turnover from year to year has gone from double to five-

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Maria Levin does not have to voice her opinion loudly, she speaks quietly, thoughtfully, and perhaps this is the reason she comes across as so genuine and her words seem unrehearsed. Success makes one relaxed, and the 45 year old founder of Nudie Jeans and the female counterpart Denimbirds, makes us believe that she would undoubtedly be content with far less. “It is a gift to be able to do what one wants and to know that there are people all over the world who share our philosophy and aesthetic.”

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fold. The niche in which the brand sees itself, is obviously greater than expected. During her work stations with the textile conglomerate J&C and as design manager for Lee, Maria was able to sharpen her intuition and her approach towards the industry in general and for denim, in detail.

Today she likes to compare the fashion industry with the music business. There are musicians who have a preference for one style of music their whole life, be it Jazz, Punk or Rock. They love the sound, are constantly striving to become better in their field, and constantly meet different people who share their passion. “In the fashion industry I feel

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as if one season everyone is into Punk, the next Hip Hop, then Classical - figuratively speaking. My passion is denim and that will never change.”

Similarly to forming a rock band, is how she went about founding Nudie Jeans. Back in her home of Sweden she looked for individuals who shared her approach and perfection, who sensed the same vibe. Nudie Jeans was never meant to be raucous or “hip”, and still today assumes a more subtle appreciation for fashion.

Because jeans always had a male connotation to them, Nudie Jeans was exclusively concipated for boys. The fits are today as in the past universal and relaxed, the branding subtle, the main focus being on the wash. A large part of the jeans are delivered unwashed and untreated. Small brochures, which are hidden in the back pocket of each pair, inform about the origin of the item. Furthermore there are suggestions on how to wear the item, for example not to wash the pants at all in the first six months, or just to dry clean them, in order to increase the authenticity of the product. The concept has been well received, and by now fans compete with one another on blogs about how long they have managed to hold out until their best piece has undergone the first wash.

Having their feet firmly on the ground and being authentic are a foundation of the Nudie Jeans universe. In their campaigns they consciously show normal types in normal situations, heavily made up

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models are not needed – the product is always in the foreground. And into this optimisation is where a large part of the budget goes. At least half of the denim is made from Japanese denim, the finishing is done in the best laundrettes in Italy. “I don’t abstain from a particular wash or a detail, just because the production would be a few cents more expensive. In large companies everything revolves around margins and profits – eventhough most of them are already sitting on a large amount of money. For me the quality and the passion is important,” explains Levin. But not just for these reasons are Nudie Jeans and Denimbird produced exclusively in Italy and Portugal. The compliance with human rights and fair trade rules were a premise of the brand from the beginning and are communicated on labels and handtags. “Of course it is cheaper to produce in China for instance, but they have no democracy and the working conditions are not sound.

There are a thousand ways of talking yourself out of this responsibility. For me it is clear: if someone is producing my clothes, he is part of my company, my family and I want to be able to take on responsibility for the basic framework.”

With the “Human Rights Gallery” Nudie Jeans initiated a campaign in the past in cooperation with Amnesty International, asking questions such as “What effects does the UN declaration of Human Rights have on our relation to other people?”, “What has happened in the 60 years since those 30 articles were laid down?” and “How familiar are

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we with their content?” 30 international performers, artists and photographers were asked to think about these questions and, based on their answers, each illustrated an article from the UN declaration that was used for a T-Shirt print. For every T-Shirt sold 11 euros in full is donated for Amnesty’s work.

Nudie Jeans also deals with the problems of garbage production. For the project “Nudie Jeans Recycle Denim Maniacs” young designers were last year commissioned to bring old denim back to life, and set an effective example for the future.

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Efficient thinking, fear of competition, optimisation of resources at the cost of passion or even the environment or humans are detested by Maria Levin and inapprehensible: “The people at the big corporations are scared most of the time, so they are always looking at what the others are doing, buy other label’s samples, go to trade shows, send their trend scouts all over the world. In my opinion one should rely on one’s own identity and intuition.”

Maria has for many years not stepped on a plane and saves herself the time of wandering around looking for trends. Instead she spends the time with her two children or in her garden to “scrabble around in the dirt”. That she is wearing jeans while doing so, which reveal the truth of this later on, almost goes without saying.

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A product with a purpose ›› Prps ‹‹ ››› “Authenticity is our first priority,” says Donwan Harrell founder and Creative Director of the brand Prps. When he designs an item for his collection he always has a specific purpose and function in mind. In the pursuit of delivering perfect garments to the most discerning denim enthusiast, no detail is overlooked. Prps is designed to be worn and utilised. ‹‹‹

The Prps collections repeatedly reference a wealth of detail from the worlds of authentic military uniform, workwear and hunting apparel. “We are continually in the research and development process; from taking note of a painter’s stains, to observing

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“I grew up in North Carolina and in Virginia Beach and experienced the simpler things in life. Coming from a logging and hunting family, I appreciated the clothes that went hand in hand with these jobs.

There was always a form and function to every detail in the garment - no room for luxury expenditures. A product with a purpose,” explains Prps’s Creative Director Donwan Harrell.

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wrinkles on a mechanic’s knees,” Donwan explains.

His outfit is typically a pair of loose selvedge jeans, a pair of white Chuck Taylor sneakers and a vintage raglan sleeved T-shirt with a car brand logo on the front such as “STP” or “Exxon”. “My father exposed me to the 1970’s ‘Dragstrip’ scene early on, and cars are a hobby that I still actively pursue.

Working on race cars and participating in that community provides endless influence for the tattered holes, oil stains, and wrinkled, creased effects you see on our product each season,” he describes. And when asked from where he takes the inspiration for his styles, he answers: “I spend a lot of time at the drag racing strip and I am continually inspired

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by watching the guys with their cars. I see the way they work, move and live in the product they wear.

My designs reflect this with the authentic placement of detailing like stains, whiskers and creases that you find in each pair of jeans. All are done by hand which also keeps the look fresh because no two pairs are ever alike.”

perfect pair of jeans. By recruiting the most qualified denim specialists to assist in every stage of the development and manufacturing process, and discovering innovations in reproducing elements that inspire us, we’ve raised the bar each season with more diversity.” This is why for him, as for a race car driver or a master chef only the best ingredients and experts will do and are applied. “For the Prps pants we use African cotton combined with expert Japanese construction to create what we believe to be the finest product available. We began our quest to find the finest organic cotton in the world and found it on the African continent.”

The fabrics are finished in Japan.

One of the most characteristic criteria of Prps jeans is the folded back pocket. Next to the small purple coloured tag, this is one of the details that at first sight catches one’s attention. However, Donwan does not aim to create a high recognition effect. “Our constant pursuit is authenticity in the prps

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It took two years until Donwan Harrell could bring a small group of craftsmen to trust in him and realise the project with. “The wait was worth it. The small, insular community of artisans lend their expertise to the creation of our garments, producing one-ofa-kind masterpieces. Throughout Japan, there are a few select, family-run denim manufacturers, in small towns who possess a deep understanding of craft and expertise to rival the tailors on Savile Row. Prps is the only American brand for which they create, which makes our offerings truly second to none,” he proudly explains.

Prps denim is woven on vintage Levi’s shuttle looms that are wholly unlike the mass, projectile looms commonly used around the world today. It is woven in small batches with a signature purple selvedge. This process is much slower and deliberate, produces less material and more waste, but the end result is denim that is superior in durability, texture and touch.

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Prps’ evolution reflects that of Harrell himself – his life experiences, both personal and professional push the collection forward. “The conceptualisation and outcome of Prps encompasses the blueprint of who I am, where I came from, where I’ve been and where I’m going. And as long as I continue to evolve as a person, so will my product,” says the founder and Creative Director Donwan Harrell.

›››› How did you become involved in the fashion business? ‹‹‹‹ My mother worked at the Osh Kosh factory and she would make clothes at home to sell at the flea market. She taught me how to sew on a Singer home sewing machine and I also learned how to use a serger or overlock machine. ›››› What makes a label interesting for you? ‹‹‹‹ A label has to have a viewpoint. It must target a specific market share that doesn’t exist at that moment and time. ›››› How would you describe the typical Prps style? ‹‹‹‹ Layered tops and loose jeans. A perfect example is a plain white T-shirt under a black leather A-2 jacket with dark jeans and a pair of white “Converse Chuck Taylor All Star” sneakers. ›››› What particularly inspired the Prps Autumn 2008/09 collection? ‹‹‹‹ The Prps Autumn/Winter 2008/09 collection is inspired by the film “Dirty Mary Crazy Larry”. ›››› What part does music play in your work? ‹‹‹‹ Music plays a huge part in my work and in my life. I love British indie rock. I’m a huge fan of Bloc Party, Arctic Monkeys, The Kooks, Constantine, The Libertines, The Black Alps, British Sea Power and Kings of Leon, they’re not British but I like them a lot!

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›››› Besides denim, what are the most exciting fabrics you work with? ‹‹‹‹ Lightweight canvas is the most exciting fabric I am working with right now. It’s great because it looks great when it’s garment dyed or sulfur dyed, and it reacts well to treatments.

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›››› What do the ultimate jeans have to look like? ‹‹‹‹ The ultimate jeans are the original “Levi’s Big E‘s” preWorld War II. “Levi’s” really got it right with those.

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Being fair, being real ›› Kuyichi ‹‹

››› Almost not a single day goes by when a label is not about to launch an organic cotton jean, and brands are not throwing around terms such as ‚corporate social “responsibility” or “ethical fashion”. At Kuyichi these values are a solid part of the company philosophy. And on top of all the political correctness the styles of the pioneers of social wear look great as well. ‹‹‹ -----------------------------------------------------------

Since its founding in the year 2000 the Dutch label has developed the use of ecologically grown, pesticide free cotton and fosters fair trade guidelines. Initiated with the help of organisation “Solidaridad”, four other NGOs and a bank for ethical investments Kuyichi profits from the chair holders long time experience. The fair contact with the producing countries has upmost priority. Kuyichi manufactures in Tunisia and India, but mainly in Peru, the country that lent its name to the brand.

Kuyichi is the Peruvian word for rainbow and also the description of a god.

According to a legend the Native Indio tribe of the “Taquilas” upset this god, whereupon he took away

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their colour. Through their creativity and ability to weave it was possible for the Indians to repossess their colours. Even if the truthfulness of such legends is questionable, it is a nice story nonetheless.

And when looking at the colourful designs of the womens- and menswear, it is clearly a source for inspiration. Respect goes out to the workers, further the interest for social and ecological matters in the country of production are solid elements of the Kuyichi company philosophy.

This means that the producers are given the opportunity to be shareowners of the company, which increases the interest in the success of the product from both sides. The spirit of not only being

the party that is taking, is reflected in the company logo. A circle with a plus sign combines the symbol of our earth and the sign for “positive” and also “addition”, thus demonstrating Kuyichi’s stance on trying to make the world a little more positive.

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Denim has been at the epicentre of all the Kuyichi collections from the start, whereby it is not only the aim of the designers to present new and exciting styles season after season, the company mantra of “style consciousness” is omnipresent.

The jeans from the subline “Recycled Denim” consist of extra unused cotton and thread residue.

Through the process of reusing leftover material Kuyichi puts less of a strain on the cotton resour-

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ces. The scrap products are chopped up, dyed and woven. The remarkable thing about the recycled denim is the multicoloured indigo game. The more intensely it is viewed, the more versatile its appearance becomes.

In the line “Spare Denim” on the other hand remnants from previous productions are reused, reconstituted and turned into new products once again.

These leftovers remained unused before the implementation of the spare material.

In the “Pure Premium Denim”-line, another limited edition, Kuyichi uses the most prime organic denim fabrics with an authentic construction. This dura-

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ble fabrication is dyed with the authentic deep indigo used for traditional Japanese denims in dry and Italian saturated finishes making it a true luxury good. Trusting in their own vision has proven successful – the innovative Kuyichi collection is today available in more than 15 countries and 850 shops, with an upwardly mobile tendency. Kuyichi

offers jeans you want to wear for the rest of your life while saving the planet in style.

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Blue is beautiful ›› wrangler blue bella ‹‹ ››› The bell bottom is a piece of jeans history. In the 1970’s Wrangler set the tone with its flare fits and is today creating an authentic vintage look based on its experiences filled with tradition for female denim fans. ‹‹‹

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In the year 1897 C.C Hudson leaves his home town, to work as a button sewer for 25 cents per hour in an overall factory in Greensboro, North Carolina. However the factory has to close, so as a result he buys several sewing machines together with his brother Homer and founds the “Hudson Overall Company”. Initially a loft above a grocery store serves as a production facility. Fifteen years later the Hudson brothers build their first own factory on the grounds of the same place and call it the “Blue Bell Overall Company”. According to legend, the new name for the company comes from a railway train bell, which Hudson receives as a present from the locomotive drivers and railway

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workers, who buy overalls from him. He has it hung in the workshop, and after a while it is covered in blue dust from the denim material. The business booms and in 1926 the company is sold to “Big Ben Manufacturing Company”, Kentucky, but the name “Blue Bell Overall Company” remains. In 1936 the “Super Big Ben Overalls” made of sanforised material are introduced, which shrink less than one percent when washed. Before this it was acceptable for denim to shrink by ten percent. With the process of sanforising Blue Bell a great sensation is caused within the textile business and a new industry standard is set, which is still used in the manufacturing of denim material today. The com-

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pany continues to grow and by 1943 Blue Bell buys the “Work Clothes Company” from Casey Jones as well as the rights to the up until this point hardly used name: Wrangler. In 1945 Blue Bell starts the development on a jeans line for cowboys. After a personnel contest in order to find a name for the new denim line, Wrangler asserts itself as a synonym for the hard working cowboy.

The first Wrangler jeans are designed by the tailor Ben Lichtenstein from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. By the 1930’s and 1940’s he has created tailor made outfits for Western film stars such as Gene Autry, Roy Rogers and Hopalong Cassidy under the name of “Rodeo Ben”. His clients being Country mu-

sic stars Hawkshaw Hawkins and Jimmy Dean, who trust in him, as do the Rock ’n’ Roll icon Bill Haley and all of his Comets some time later. However the predilection of the tailor are the cowboys and the rodeo. For the design of his jeans line he seeks the advice of the most renowned rodeo riders, in order to perfect every detail of the pants according to the demands of the cowboys. In the year 1947 the first pair of jeans under the name Wrangler is launched. The model “Cowboy Cut”, a straight cut five pocket jean, advances as the Western jeans of the rodeo scene.

When “Newsweek” coins the term “Teenager” in 1963 and displaces a girl in Wrangler jeans along

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with it on the front page, the great jeans boom explodes. Particularly in the 1970’s in Europe, the Wrangler bell bottoms become the cult jeans of an entire generation.

leather patch with branding, as well as through its fit, and the excellent vintage denim quality and indigo or worn look washes. The flare fit models Joni and Farrah with a very wide trapeze shape, are available in a feminine 1970’s silhouette. Furthermore the models Maddison, a straight cut five pocket jean, and Megan, a bootcut variant with a slightly outward leg, undermine the heritage character, for example through the typical Wrangler ”W”-stitching on the back pocket.

Today, more than 100 years after founding the Blue Bell Company, the women’s collection by Wrangler draws on the legendary history of the brand and carries the name Blue Bella. The pants are convincing, through the authentic details such as the

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With its womens collection Blue Bella, Wrangler combines its authentic denim past with the fashionable design aesthetic of today and presents a classic line in new stretch denim quality, the range of which is characterised through ideal and comfortable fits, contemporary appearance and durable materials.

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Luxury, glamour, Seven ›› 7 for all mankind ‹‹ ››› At the beginning of the new millennium there was a commotion among the pages of the international celebrity and fashion gazettes: “There are these VIP-jeans from L.A. that give you the perfect behind.” For weeks on end paparazzi shots were printed with celebs such as Drew Barrymore, Beyoncé or Gwyneth Paltrow shopping in their “7 for all mankind” jeans – hence the “luxury jeans” were born. ‹‹‹

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Everything began with the idea of the American Peter Koral to establish “cool jeans in a high end finish within the promising luxury segment”.

Sophisticated but yet with just the right pinch of understatement in order to create a well-groomed look coordinated with the blazer and polo shirt.

With years of experience gained from his apparel business “L‘Koral” founded in 1972, Koral went on to start the brand “7 for all Mankind” in 2000, which rapidly became the darling of many American stars. Previously unthinkable on the European market, 200 Euros for a basic model did not create any price resistance, but instead it became a “must have desire”, which had not existed before.

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The mindset of gaining a piece of lifestyle “made in the US” when buying a pair of “Seven‘s” opened the premium market. Countless copies followed and a flood of American wonder brands with VIP-habitus took the market by storm over night.

Not only in the case of “7 for All Mankind” has something that was at one time a democratic, but simultaneously cult cotton basic, long since advanced to becoming designer goods. Logically so one has consequently gone after an elitist position, and from the very beginning “Seven‘s” have only ever been exclusively available in renowned designer boutiques and not in mediocre denim stores.

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The finances were enjoyable from the beginning – enabling a quick structural expansion of the company. In the year 2008 “7 for all Mankind” was represented in over 60 countries – the content was extended accordingly: in addition to the women‘s denim line a cashmere-apparel-line rapidly joined, followed by a menswear collection in 2002 and an edition for children in 2005. Since than a sportswear-, handbag- and shoe collection have been launched as well.

The non failing support of celebrities are today just as self-evident as collaborations with renowned fashion labels, counting as popular marketing strategies. Thus in the past there have been confined liaisons with “The Great China Wall”, “Zac Posen”, “Azzedine Alaïa” and “Pucci”. That there are no upward price limits is proven by the limited edition models made in coop with the crystal manufacturers “Swarovski” – the sparkling luxury pants were forcefully marked at several thousand dollars.

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Currently a considerable ambition is displayed at “7 for all Mankind”, where the aim is to rapidly capture up-to-the-minute trends and professionally convert and market them. In doing so the scope of the current collection convinces, especially the use of the new flare- and high waist, as well as the constant favourite - the skinny fit. The sheer exhaustless choice of colours, washes, styles, details

are avowedly aimed at the trend conscious woman, who likes to express herself in the most diverse fashionably striking ways. Very “West Coast” and very “glam” indeed.

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The sunny side of California ›› citizens of humanity ‹‹ ››› Before Jerome Dahan founded the label Citizens of Humanity he was co-founder and designer of “7 for all Mankind” and head of design at “Lucky Brand Jeans”. The rapid breakthrough of his youngest baby shows: success is never forgotten! ‹‹‹

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Just as his first born label, Citizens of Humanity became a favourite amongst several stars within the blink of an eye. Cameron Diaz, Drew Barrymore, Kate Winslet and Nicole Kidman swear by the fits and love the Californian effortlessness, which each piece of the collection from Huntington Beach encompasses. Jerome Dahan’s secret to success?

To simply do what is fun and what you are good at. All of Jerome’s passion and personal interests merge into the collection: his weakness for vintage clothing, furniture and photography; the St. Tropez glamour of the 1950’s and 1960’s; women with iconic character such as Jackie O, Catherine Deneuve, Jean Seberg and Kate Moss; and the clas-

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sic lines of the marine and the military style. His unbroken creativity and energy in the development of washing techniques and new cuts stem from his unweakened strive for perfection within the constantly changing world of denim.

The Citizens of Humanity style appeals to the adventurous streak in a girl, to a love for freedom and a joy of experimentation. The lightly faded materials of the collection remind of the relaxed luxury of the Californian lifestyle. Jerome’s vision for COH is very clear: to create a timeless product that is constant in quality, design and detail. Dahan expands his vision from season to season through the care-

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ful extension of his collection. What started out as a small but strong, basic denim collection today encompasses a knitwear line as well as seasonal and extensive product groups.

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Quality in cup size ›› Notify Jeans ‹‹ ››› After 25 years spent at the sewing table the designer Maurice Ohayon fulfilled his dream in 2003: He made his great passion, denim, into his profession and founded the jeans label Notify. The superior success and the collaborations with other designers have entitled him the right of choosing his own materials. Thus the secret is in the detail. ‹‹‹

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Maurice Ohayon was born in 1959 in Casablanca, Morocco. His mother worked as a men’s tailor from home, measuring her customers and advising them on the styles best suited for their body types, and cutting muslin patterns for their fittings. The huge family dining room table was transformed into a cutting surface during the day around which employees and apprentices bustled, creating buttonholes, setting linings, and sewing on pockets. The entire house lived according to the rhythm of the suits, their fittings, and the stress of last-minute alterations. From early on Maurice Ohayon started to base the fundamentals of his craft on his childhood memories.

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After his studies in Paris in the late 1970‘s he and a colleague found their first label: Fetiche. An apartment in the eleventh arondissement and a sewing machine are enough in the beginning. A few months later a friend shows denim to him for the first time.

This meeting is to change his life. From then on he obsessively busies himself with the characteristics and possibilities of the material.

In 2003 it is finally time: Matured to an expert Ohayon begins selling jeans himself under his label Notify. It goes without saying that the best is just good enough. With Notify Ohayon seeks to apply to jeans the tailoring techniques that he learned from his mother.

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He favours exact cuts as well as traditional handmade details, and superb craftsmanship. Ohayon believes that pockets are very important—his mother would often say, “the air of a man depends upon the right balance of his pocket’s shape and positioning”. The brand name is embroidered on the inside waistband of each pair of jeans, just like Ohayon’s mother used to do with the name of her clients inside their suits.

One of the big themes is androgyny, thus the amalgamation of traditional gender traits. Taking inspiration from icons such as Greta Garbo or Marlene Dietrich he presents his first designs in 2004, which integrate the classic style of a men’s line into a women’s wardrobe. In 2005 Ohayon launches a sub brand with NFY, which is to transmit the premium approach to products beyond jeans.

The collection reflects an assertive style: modern with pictorial prints. Made of denims, trousers, jackets, shirts and T-shirts, each season is more exhaustive offering an array of various styles, colours and fabrics. Its success is eventually assigned to the mother brand and respectively for Autumn/ Winter 2005/06 the first ready-to-wear collection is launched.

Again inspired by the concept of androgyny, which also gives the line its name, it offers a style that evokes the mystery of ambiguity, the elegance of a custom-made savoir-faire and the constant research of details. For Autumn/Winter 2008/09, the collection is renamed the “Wardrobe” and gathers together the key pieces of the masculine and feminine dressing room.

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Nevertheless Ohayon’s focus is still on jeans. They are at the core of his creative work. As “the Yves Saint Laurent of denim” the master lends his years of experience to the renowned stars of the industry such as “Lagerfeld” (for his label “K Karl Lagerfeld”) or “Stella McCartney”.

What makes Notify jeans so exciting is the fact that on the one hand they are highly fashionable and on the other a luxury version of the phenomenon that is denim, for which only the best materials are used. For Maurice Ohayon not only the product but also the individual is in the focus. The circumstance that jeans size does not necessarily mean jeans size is something that Notify incorporates into its range. As a result Ohayon has developed a measurement, the name of which he derives from the tailoring craft “sculpt sizing”. It sounds advanced yet means something very banal: The measurement of the behind. Next to the regular waist sizes, Notify offers its jeans in the three curve sizes from A (slight curve) to C (full curve), as a measurement the distance from the base of the spine through to the curve of the butt is used.

However, more choice does not instantly mean inflation, the value of this exclusive garment remains the same. Maurice Ohayon has made it his task in life to guarantee jeans with elegance and class for women of different ages, without compromising on quality or precision of fit.

Vintage Recreations ›› Hollywood Trading Company ‹‹ ››› Zip Stevenson founded the brand “Hollywood Trading Company” in Santa Monica starting with a range of handcrafted leather belts. Over the years HTC became a completely vintage inspired collection including boots, apparel and a range of very special denim bottoms. ‹‹‹

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The vision of HTC is based on Zip Stevenson’s passion for vintage workwear, overalls, leather goods and denim items. He entered the fashion business completely by chance: “I was finishing college and working part-time at a small business finance company in the sales department. One day I approached a potential client on the Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica. The store was selling used “Levi’s” for more money than new jeans cost and it really captured my interest and curiosity! I asked for a job at the company and worked there for about one year before starting my own shop called “The Denim Doctors.” In his store he sold vintage jeans, leather jackets and accessories. Additionally

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customers had their beloved jeans customised or repaired. Rips and holes were not nearly capacitated, but also professionally mended. On his travels across the country he searched for well-preserved vintage pieces. Especially leather belts with elaborate buckles and detailing or beautiful patina were always difficult to find. For this reason Zip Stevenson decided to have a range produced by artisans according to samples of old belts. With the goal of satisfying the growing number of customers falling in love with these replicas, he launched the label HTC in 2000.

Over the last few years Zip as creative director, extended the HTC collection to T-shirts, knitwear,

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boots, leather jackets and denim pants inspired by vintage classics. They are reinterpretations with a modern touch that have an aged look and time honoured feel. Zip describes the HTC style as basically free and easy. “I like to call it ‘California casual’. It is never too tricky or too clever. We attempt to make things that remind our customers of their favourite old clothes, like their most beloved old jeans, sweatshirt or vintage leather belt.”

The focus is on quality. This is why the collection is produced by Andrea Brà’s LCB Company in Italy.

The choice of fabrics is a mix of vintage and luxury materials. The denim range is produced from a selection of American, Japanese and Italian last generation denims, either rinsed or nicely washed and in some cases with original vintage denim from the 1970’s. The new HTC collection is inspired by the famous American movie “Deliverance” about four men from the city - Jon Voight, Burt Reynolds, Ned Beatty, Ronny Cox - as they encounter unforeseen trouble on a weekend canoeing trip in John Boorman’s classic from 1972.

Fast-moving trends and dictating runway fashions are not of high importance for Zip. “There are plenty of great brands that make amazing modern clothing. We make vintage inspired, comfortable clothing that makes you smile and feel good when wearing it. Think of your most treasured restaurant at the beach that you visit every summer. You might look forward to your favourite breakfast and lunch and the ambiance of the place. You might

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be very sad to find it not there one summer and replaced by a ‘McDonald’s’ or ‘Starbucks’ or even finding a drastic change to the menu and interior or completely new staff. Our clothes are like that little restaurant, something that you trust year after year...,” Zip explains. In a way it is like the materials he likes to work with. “I love the way leather wears in and looks better and better the more you use it, like jeans.”

The first pair of jeans he bought from his first earned money was the basic shrink to fit “501” from “Levi’s”. Later he began to wear vintage “Levi‘s 501’s” made between the 1930’s and the 1960’s. For him the ultimate jeans have to be simple and well made, which he sums up with the sentence “I am not a fan of overdone, over designed anything - including jeans.”

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a Product sewn in earnest ›› Earnest Sewn ‹‹ ››› This is the company philosophy, which lies behind the denim brand Earnest Sewn. Launched by the former “Paper, Denim & Cloth” founder and designer Scott Morrison, the concept combines the Japanese beauty aesthetic of Wabi-Sabi, with denim’s origin. Wabi-Sabi is the beauty of all things that are imperfect, impermanent and incomplete. Though not being a new concept, but one that is thousands of years old, when combined with distinctly American products such as jeans, it takes on a fresh and unexpected meaning. ‹‹‹

One thing Earnest Sewn takes great pride in is steering clear of assembly line production, instead having one sewer working on a piece at a time, wherever possible. Adding to authentic craftsman-

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The focus of the label is on workmanship, pride and a commitment to authenticity, through the individual garments that are created. This is ensured by the manufacturing of each piece being overseen by three people, who monitor a garment’s progress from start to finish, at every stage from design, sourcing, cutting, manufacturing, dry processing, wet processing, trim, inspection, packaging and ultimately shipping.

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ship the wash processes of the denim incorporate hand-drawn techniques, the result being unique, one of a kind garments, which diverge from widely available mass-produced denim. For example, one hand-sanding artisan will work on a single pair of jeans, thereby achieving the desired amount of shading, texture and contrast.

The three people overseeing each pair’s production, along with the president and designer Scott Morrison, hand stamp the jean after each step of the process is complete. “By signing our names we are committing our reputation to the product and validating its authenticity and quality. Every pair sewn in earnest.”

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The styles of Earnest Sewn jeans aim to flatter and compliment the silhouette of the wearer for both men and women. Front and back pocket designs, as well as placement, add to the shape and elongate the leg. Especially in the women’s collection many styles have a two piece contour waistband providing a significantly better fit for curvier shapes through thinning out the waistline and helping to eliminate gapping while seated. One of the styles currently available in the women’s range is the “Harlan” fit, a low rise cigarette leg fit. The “Nadine” wash is on Italian stretch denim, made of 98 percent cotton and 2 percent elastane, the total weight being 10oz. This wash is a great mid range optic blue wash with an amazing hand feel and super soft drape to it. Playing off a more mainstream approach, “Nadine” has very subtle top block whiskering and a 3D pattern with slightly stronger thigh sanding. The true beauty of this finish is in

the hand and rich optic blue shade. The “Fulton” Fit is Earnest Sewn’s classic straight leg fit for men.

The “Martin” wash is on an Italian Denim, consisting of 100 percent cotton and weighing 12.5oz. It is a saturated dark finish, drawing from the idea of a jean that has been worn in from its rigid state for around one year. It is processed with top block 3D, whiskering and thigh sanding. A nice dark jean for Autumn, its special feature being the side seam scratches from the original wearer’s dog scratching at his leg. When founder Scott Morrison is asked

about whether jeans are a must for his own outfit he answers, “I live in jeans, and recently I am living in our ‘ACE’ fit, which is a slim, subtle bootcut.” On how he came to the fashion and denim business he speaks of living in jeans and T-shirts as a child, like all American kids. When growing older he began to appreciate the iconic place of denim in a person’s wardrobe. “I love the way it was epitomized in film

by Marlon Brando, James Dean, Steve McQueen, and that it represented something rugged, tough and classic not to mention timeless. When looked at from a designer’s point of view, it’s an amazingly

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durable fabric, and the ideal ‘blank canvas’. You can recreate the past, tell stories, and constantly experiment with it – all through the treatment and design of a pair of jeans.” His stance on what the ultimate jeans should look like, for him is defined through three main concerns, namely fit, fabric and finish. He thinks about them each separately and then as a whole pertaining to every pair he designs. Here he comes back to the philosophy of the brand: “Obviously we also have some parameters that make each product distinctly ‘Earnest Sewn’, and those relate more to craftsmanship, authenticity and whenever possible, the use of innovative techniques or processes to make the jeans appear more vintage.”

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Blue-balanced ›› Denham ‹‹ ››› Not only is Jason Denham’s last name properly pronounced Denim, the man behind the new brand from Amsterdam is also an icon in the field of jeanswear. After having spent years in all sectors of the industry Jason decided it was about time to call things by their name. Voila: here is Denham Jeans! We are very proud that the official brand launch is taking place at 14 oz. ‹‹‹

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Jason Denham cut his first denim cloth working for Joe Casely Hayford, making jeans for U2‘s, Bono & The Edge. For 8 years he product managed all denim for “Pepe Jeans” in London, Amsterdam and Madrid. After this he set up “Clinic+” a consulting agency, which advised on all aspects of the creative denim business.

Including developments with the leading denim mills, brand creation, product design, pattern cutting, graphic art direction and global factory sourcing. Clients included “LVMH”, “Swift Denim Europe” & “Kuyichi”. In 2002 the designer created and founded the premium denim brand “Blue Blood”, which is today sold in 32 countries worldwide.

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No more proof is needed to show that Jason Denham knows what he’s doing. We had the pleasure to conduct a very inspiring interview, in which he explains the idea of Denham Jeans. ›››› When and why did you decide to start your own brand? ‹‹‹‹ At the beginning of 2008 I travelled around Europe, US and Japan and I realised that the denim market is missing some excitement. I have a strong feeling that the market is waiting for a new denim story. The market leaders get bigger and more corporate, which I believe creates an opening for small, inspiring creative new brands.

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›››› What’s the Denham concept? ‹‹‹‹ It’s about making “mouth watering, must have exciting denim”. Our passion is building jeans that give you goose bumps and the… “I gotta get me one of those jeans feelings”. Denham is positioned at the medium to high level market; retail prices will start at 150 up to 500 Euros, all produced in Japan and Italy. We have a great jeans maker called Hiro who is also a sake maker. To celebrate the launch of the Denham Brand Hiro has gifted 100 bottles of the finest sake, which is the first export of his family sake outside of Japan in seven generations. Denham is for early adopters who know denim.

›››› Why does the world need Denham? ‹‹‹‹ The Denham unique selling point is “balance”. The collection and concept is born out of experience, passion and knowledge of vintage denim, except we twist it with the perfect equilibrium of modern styling – packaging and understanding of fits and materials. In the end it is very simple, it is balanced. The Denham signature collection is called “the truth is in the details”; these details are the foundation and the unique selling point of the brand. ›››› So what makes the perfect pair of jeans? ‹‹‹‹ “Balance”. A good denim designer understands the measures of the ingredients and knows which ones to use. Making jeans is like cooking; one small mistake and the denim is ruined. Understanding the correct balance of ingredients is the secret to making the perfect pair of jeans. ›››› What projects are coming up next? ‹‹‹‹ We are currently working on a collaboration with Jack Purcell. Denham will restyle the iconic 1939 – “happiest shoe in the world”. We are also discussing a collaboration with Nigel Cabourn for the Winter 2009 collection. Denham will open a gallery boutique denim store in Amsterdam at the end of this year. The store will be a celebration of the Denham brand with unique pieces and presentation. The Denham Boutique store will be joined with the creative design studio and showrooms, encompassing the total brand spirit.

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›››› What’s your vision of Denham in 10 years from now? ‹‹‹‹ My dream in ten years is to be working with the same inspirational and passionate like-minded team. The team is everything. Together we can build the Denham brand with passion, integrity and a smile!

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Raw, uncut and personal! ›› Jean Shop ‹‹ ››› Who doesn’t wish for a bit more individuality? Today where every exclusive product makes it from Tokyo to Moscow within two weeks, one is pleased by a remaining effort of singularity. For who haute couture or a customised Maserati are too much, should try jeans directly from New York’s Meat Packing District. ‹‹‹

From the beginning the goal of founder Eric Goldstein was to go back to basics: simple blue jeans made from good materials with a subtle hint of authenticity. Only premium selvedge Japanese denim

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The number of small, exclusive jeans brands has not decreased over the past years. How fortunate then that there are still originals such as Jean Shop in the South West of Manhattan. No large advertising, a simple neon sign at the entrance and inside there is more of the flair of a store from Montana than one in the Big Apple. Nevertheless, Jean Shop has been selling one of the most covetable denims on the planet for more than four years now.

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is used for this. From the material the final pants are produced in the US and made by hand. There is a choice between two cuts: the classic straight cut and the relaxed fit. If the jeans are bought straight from the mother store instead of at one of the many worldwide retailers, there is a feature on top: the jeans can be made to measure! A bit of extra width in the knee, a patch here, an extra button there – at the in-house tailoring facility the jeans can be altered to taste and the customer is king!

As a result no two pairs are the same, every one being unique. Perhaps it is in this simple approach that their secret to success lies.

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By now Goldstein and his colleagues sell everything in their store, which deserves the name vintage – from a leather jacket to hand finished shoes.

A second store has even been opened in Soho and currently a collaboration with the shirt makers Turnbull & Asser from London is set to happen. One principle stands all tests of time: Quality first!

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Traditions reloaded ›› Gilded Age ‹‹ ››› Gilded Age is basically an expression for an economical and associated artistic bonanza period. It is part of Greek mythology and in the United States it denotes the era from 1877 to 1900, a time of wealth and excess amongst America’s upper-class. Gilded Age is also the name of a New York luxury, mostly denim brand that is definitely worthy of its name. ‹‹‹

For their upcoming Autumn 2008 collection, Gilded Age were inspired by the lives and achievements of great pioneers of the fin-de-siècle such as Frank

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Founded by principal designer and creative director Stefan Miljanic, Gilded Age focuses on organic, handcrafted, and artisan approaches to fabric and product development. Inspiration is drawn from the early industrial revolution’s textile production techniques at the turn of the 20th century. The result is a well balanced, socially conscious mix of luxury sportswear and premium selvedge jeans, mostly made of Japanese high end denim and woven on old narrow looms.

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Woolworth, Andrew Carnegie and Benjamin Altman, whose high impact did not only touch the American economics but also left permanent marks on NYC’s architecture. The range is a brilliant mixture of saturated colours such as blacks, greys, indigos, and slate blues, mixed with lighter greens and burgundies, subtle yet standing out at the same time.

Obviously the denim line plays a prominent role in this collection, a key item is the hand made 1950’s inspired “Levi’s” jean done in an organic “Supima” cotton with natural indigo dye.

Gilded Age’s outerwear range consists of wool pea coats, plaid bomber style jackets and Mongolian

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cashmere sweaters. A novelty of the collection will be the “Gild Collection”, including a wool and cotton suit, made from fine Japanese and Italian wools. This season’s range is completed by some accessories such as hand crafted vintage duffel, weekender and shoulder bags.

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Style flowing through the veins ›› blue blood ‹‹ ››› Amsterdam is without a doubt the denim capital of Europe. Nearly all of the large brands have settled in the canal city and from here dominate the denim industry, innovations always being aboard. In 2002, a new Dutch luxury denim brand appeared on the scene. Its name: Blue Blood. ‹‹‹

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One of the advantages of being a journalist is that sometimes we can play “Wikipedia” and teach our readers some facts. Or did you already know that lobsters, amongst some other arthropods, have blue blood? Well, that’s because usually we as writers get our incredible knowledge second hand, and in this case Blue Blood told us so. They must know, as the lobster is their mascot and logo. The Blue Blood team states: “We have denim in our blood.”

Also the name was chosen to underline the reverence to aristocracy, tradition and superior quality, but in the same way to indigo, the colour of denim.

When starting Blue Blood the idea of the two founders Jason Denham and Steve te Pas was to take

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the “fast” out of fashion and “just say no to all the hype and hoopla”, and that hasn’t changed up until today. Blue Blood’s intention is to bring back the passion and pride and grant no more concessions to style and quality.

Blue Blood is a luxury denim and fashion brand, so on the one hand its position in the market lies somewhere between the major jeans and sportswear brands, and the more luxurious designer fashion labels on the other. Co-founder Steve te Pas explains: “We love denim and its heritage. At the same time we don’t sit still and look at the past.

We create unique fits and exciting washes because

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that’s what we like to wear. Our motto is ‘for our friends’; the people around us are the inspiration for what we do. The first collection was inspired by special pieces we created for friends. Blue Blood is for people like ourselves. That is why we strive to make the very best and most stylish products we can. Much like home cooking for friends and family: you make that extra effort.”

50 separate manual steps to create the innovative finishes that keep the jeans on the leading edge of denim development.

The new collection presents a number of fresh denim designs, very feminine and sophisticated, and a super smart line of sartorial tailoring. Additionally the choice of leatherwear and accessories has also been expanded. Overall the first signs of an increased emphasis on design are apparent, and the development towards a slightly more mature, stylish look. It is obvious that it runs in the blood.

The brand is separated into two lines. The main collection of jeans, fashion garments and accessories, which is called Blue Blood and a premium line of tailoring and luxury iconic pieces called Avelon.

With “MIJ” – for Made in Japan - a special range was launched for hardcore jeans lovers, entirely made in Japan. Its attributes: the selvedge fabric, cut, construction, indigo dyeing, finishing, haberdasheries - all made in association with some of the finest craftsmen in Japan and to the highest production standards.

Another peculiarity of the label is its “cooked denim”. This is one of the many different ways the Blue Blood designers treat the denim to get precisely the look they want. The laundry takes up to

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Accessible Luxury ›› Double M ‹‹ ››› Over 20 years on, the denim connoisseur Mille Monferin launched a compact and well-balanced Autumn/Winter 2008/09 collection with his own label Double M. The native Swede‘s passion for the blue material ignited early on in the two denim stores belonging to his father, leading to years of stationing at large jeans labels such as “Levi’s”, “Lee” and “Edwin”. Not only do the Double M jeans epitomise years of experience, knowledge and unparalleled passion for denim but they also reflect its independent-thinking, true-talking approach to all of the company‘s activities. ‹‹‹

Its Titanium jeans line manufactured in Japan, positioned in the upper price segment, boasts of a new, innovative 12oz selvedge denim cloth sourced from the South of Japan. The appearance of the titanium metal worn-out sundried finish is very particular.

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Double M are a tripart operation with their feet firmly on the ground in London for Design and Marketing, its headquarter in Zurich and Research and Development in Tokyo, making the best use of these city’s ingredients. Double M’s message is quite straight-forward offering two fits for women and two for men, which are available in an array of fabrics and washes.

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The weft thread has a subtle tea tinted look while the denim is purple casted. Its eminent attention to details in subtleties are spot on: handmade embroideries and details such as the titanium buttons and rivets, a tailor-made waistband, with no stitching visible on the outside, to name a few.

Its trademark line intended for the medium high price segment is produced in Europe. The model “New Slim M1”, made of 14oz Konbu denim is a newly interpreted slim fit version with lower positioned back pockets, which can be worn skin tight as well as slightly looser. The pant comes in the wrinkle rinse, a worn in look with a 3D effect, moustaches

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on the leg and inside-knee, as well as in the orange used finish, for which the dark and raw denim garment is tinted with an orange colour before it is washed. When the pant is worn in it will have a nice vintage look. The collection is completed by an A2 aviator and a motorcycle leather jacket both in a used look.

The pure concept of Double M jeans mixing innovation and vintage resulting in a feeling of contemporariness, as well as the attention for subtleties are what make it an accessible luxury.

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The denim magicians ›› Dondup ‹‹ ››› Dondup got its name from a Tibetan lama called Mingyar Dondup, who professed, “All men are equal and race, colour and religion mean nothing. All that counts are the intentions and actions of each of us.” Well then let us take it into our own hands, thought the Italian label Dondup, thereby swearing on the soul of jeans. ‹‹‹

The modern jean has a thousand souls. Almost like a sculpture, a work of art. A sculpture, which is exposed to the influences of the weather, gains

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A pair of jeans is just like a good bottle of Chianti; the secret lies in the aging process. But sometimes it is not as it seems, and sometimes this is a good thing. For fashion should seduce and fool us.

And since denim does not rest in wooden barrels, “Dondup’s ultra low-rise jeans are treated to gain a vintage patina, which can make them look up to five years old,” says Massimo Berloni, who runs the Italian based label together with Manuela Mariotti, as a husband-and-wife team.

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a unique, attractive surface through these diverse influences. Patina is often wished for in this circumstance. And when applied to denim, interesting alternatives to the stone wash can arise.

Dondup was founded in 1999. Originally created as a denim label, the brand has expanded into a full range of upscale men’s and women’s designs.

But of the firm’s annual production of 350,000 garments, 40 percent is denim derived.

“I believe that today there are two distinct interpretations of denim: either with a fashion focus or a vintage one. We believe in the latter,” said Mas-

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simo Berloni, who, after years spent working with the icon of denim, Adriano Goldschmied, gave birth to a brand with a mystical name, a fondness for artificial surface alteration and many ideas in his jeans pocket.

The company generated a wholesale volume of $18 million last year, and projects a 20 percent increase this year. In addition to the owners, there are 38 people in the team, for a production that annually reaches nearly one million pieces. And in the Northern Italian factories where Dondup’s collections are produced, it is standard procedure to see workers punching holes into a pair of pants with bric-a-brac utensils. The handcrafted details lend a one-of-a-kind aspect to each garment.

They are now preparing to launch a dye process onto the market that has a history: the ford, a plant used for dying in the 15th century, which was then abandoned for the cheaper alternative indigo. As a result the first series of dyed jeans with ford extracts was created by the Dondup label, in collaboration with the University of Pisa and the Lamoli Museum of Colour.

Dondup expanded quickly with a series of lifestyle products and launched their first menswear collection in 2003, followed by a kidswear line, accessories as well as a number of cashmere products. In 2005 they presented limited edition diamond jeans – all pieces were created uniquely and adorned with diamonds. However, Berloni is sure: “Our jeans are sexy but never vulgar, and I believe that denim connoisseurs and vintage fans want their jeans without stretch.”

The intentions of Manuela Mariotti, creative partner of the business, were of forging jeans that “were well-fitting on Mediterranean women.”

Therefore she begun a morphological study of the body: hips, knees, and pelvis. Moreover, the trick of lowering the pockets was born within the confines of the company Arcadia, which creates, produces and distributes Dondup. Not only the surface, but also the shape of the jeans allowed for previously unthought-of possibilities. The result of this attention was the “Music Hero” model, a perfect archetype that still remains the best selling piece of the company today. Additionally there is the washing technique, using champagne enzymes, and spices, blended denim cashmere, which was born four seasons ago. All Dondup pieces are finished in Sant’Ippolito from 100 percent Italian materials.

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DUNDERDON WHYSZECK JOHNSON MOTORS NIGEL CABOURN MAURO GRIFONI WHAT COMES AROUND GOES AROUND FIFTH AVENUE SHOE REPAIR WHYRED PAUL & JOE SISTER CACHAREL CHAPTER TWO PARKVOGEL VIBE JOHANSSON VELVET / GRAHAM & SPENCER ALICE SAN DIEGO / VENTI CAPPOTTI / VENTI CAPPELLI ROBERTO COLLINA

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Worn by workers ›› Dunderdon ‹‹ ››› The history of the Swedish workwear brand Dunderdon begins in the industrial port town of Gothenburg. PerIvan Hagberg, originally a trained carpenter is looking for a new pair of work trousers. Yet he cannot find one, which is in accordance with his uncompromising standard of perfection. Without further ado he sews the trousers himself and pragmatically gives them the name “pant number one – P1”. This pant is simple, functional and very smart. Per-Ivan decides to lay down hatchet and hammer and founds Dunderon on the 6th of June 1997. ‹‹‹ -----------------------------------------------------------

Since then it has always been Per-Ivans mission to create clothing for craftsmen who appreciate superior construction and smart design. With a couple of poly cotton, panama canvas and denim pants he sets up the first range with the models “P2”, “P3” and “P4”. In 1998 a range of more functional corduroy pants for the real worker are released with a widened and more utalitarian, adjustable snap pocket system. The feedback received toward the pants is good and the bottoms quickly become the standard for the country’s artisans, builders and craftsmen, not only because of the five year warranty given in accordance to the strength of the seams. Even urbanwear retailers start to sell them.

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The range of pants grow from season to season and in 1999 besides the model “P10”, Dunderdon has developed into a real professional collection, featuring a small range of jackets, knits, shirts, polos and bags. New materials from “Gore” such as “Windstopper” and “Goretex” are used in the jacket collection. The lines are split into two different categories. One for the modern basic clothing inspired by workwear and the other for the technical styles, which still today generate half of the turnover in their home market of Sweden.

In the year 2001 vintage washed army pants are bestsellers in fashion and streetwear shops around

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the world. Dunderdon’s Rip Stop Army Pant “P21” are a big success and generate more attention to the jackets, knit jackets and sweatshirts from customers. The vintage look continues, but in a slightly cleaner way. In 2006 eco fabrics become a part of the collection. The first item is the “J42” jacket with a high quality membrane manufactured from shell-fabric, where eco hemp is mixed with garments from recycled pet bottles. Since the tenyear company anniversary in 2007 a small ladies collection by the designer Lina Hellden has also been available. “The women’s clothing is conservative yet relaxed, functional and fashionable and has a feminine touch. It is added to the brand’s guiding design principles of utility and workwear. However, dresses are a mainstay of the collection: featuring charmingly demure school dresses, a gardening smock and an alluring little waitress dress. The old-fashioned double breasted wool cape with a charming peter pan collar is the quintessential staple for Autumn. A shrunken boiled wool jacket with ¾ sleeves and taffeta lining along with ¾ length wool coats are included in the range as well as an

array of knit sweaters, vests and a selection of cotton blouses,” Linda says.

Per-Ivan and his team always work on the jackets and pants to make them in a new way, with a contemporary look and style. “Honest, simple designs are timeless and products should represent the highest craftsmanship and innovation, while never compromising fit and style. Respect the past, but don’t rely on it,” he explains his nearly dogmatic philosophy. “With its updated definition of the term ‘workwear’ each product has a reason for being, satisfies specific needs, whether for a blue-collar professional, or a no-collar creative, every design has to have a purpose,” adds the founder und giver

of ideas of Swedens most successful workwear brand, which is sold in more than 300 shops worldwide and has stand alone shops in Gothenburg, Copenhagen and New York. On Dunderdon’s website the hero of the day has his own category. Under “work space – a journal of workers working” exciting portraits and interviews can be found. “This is something we like a lot,” explains Per-Ivan. “We always present new articles with interesting workers from all over the world who simply love their work as much as we do.”

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Never look back if you want to move forward ›› WHYSZECK ‹‹ ››› Sometimes egoism is the best motor for driving a project forward. The two fashion crazed Swedes Christian Cerna und Fredrik Pira originally just wanted to create the perfect T-shirt for themselves and their friends. The response was so good that they are now able to call an internationally operating label their own. ‹‹‹

Staying true to the Scandinavian look, one search-

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“The word Whyszeck actually means nothing, it’s a fantasy term, which evolved during drunkenness when we were teenagers. That’s what we called our band at the time. Though we actually only had the band to pick up chicks,” laughs Christian. “Now thirteen years on, the name reminds us of a damn good time.” The style that characterises Whyszeck today, after four years of label existence, is quite grown up. The borrowings from the arrays of streetwear are still recognisable, yet the slim shirts, classic chinos and blouson jackets are in line with a serious occasion.

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es for loud details in vain: the cuts are simple, the colours usually muted – minimal details such as angular seams make the crucial difference, which the spoiled design affinitive target consumer especially appreciates. “We have started this year with a definite upgrade, the logo is new and we have placed our distribution in safe hands,” explains Christian about the status quo. In Sweden alone, 45 shops are selling the brand from the South of Stockholm. Japan and Italy are the strongest international markets.

At the moment the boys are searching for a location for the first official Whyszeck-flagship store.

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It seems as if the likeable contemporaries are wasting no time.

“I used to work for a pharmaceutical company before, Fredrik for the truck manufacturer Scania.

I think the reason that we always put in 150% effort with Whyszeck is because we don’t want to go back to our previous lives at any cost. That was just terribly boring.” And boredom is generally known to be a bad drive.

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Turning motors into t-shirts ›› johnson motors ‹‹ ››› Men and motors - a nexus that is probably rooted somewhere deep in the male DNA on the Y chromosome.

A kick, a thrill, a passion that takes adults back to their childhood, as they hear the roar of an engine. If this impression also attracts you, then Californian biker inspired clothing brand Johnson Motors has the right apparel for you to extravert these feelings. ‹‹‹

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Originally Johnson Motors wasn’t a clothing label, it started as a motorbike store in the 1930’s.

This is why it is better to speak of two histories of the company, a new one and an old one. But let’s start ab initio: The astute businessman Bill Johnson and his partner Wilbur Cedar started purchasing British and American motors in Pasadena in 1936. To be exact, they mostly imported the English “Ariel” and “Triumph” motorcycles into Southern California. Due to concentrated marketing of advertisements in motorcycle magazines throughout the state, they enjoyed a raving success from almost day one, when the small store became swamped with thousands

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of visitors. A short time later they changed their name into Johnson Motors Inc., or for short JoMo. During and after the Second World War they steadily grew and became involved in motorcycle racing. Their achievements gave rise to the UK based “Triumph” factory releasing new US market-only models. Johnson Motor’s success continued over decades, as Susan Carpenter reported: “There was a time back in the 1940’s, 1950’s, and 1960’s when you didn’t race motorcycles in California without a stop at Johnson Motors in Pasadena. Not only did the shop sponsor many of the top desert races – it was also the largest distributor of ‘Triumph’s’ West of the Mississippi.”

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However, at the end of the 1960’s business got worse because of Japanese motorbikes conquering the US market, and so Johnson Motors was forced to close in 1968.

long sleeves, caps and jackets as well as books, magazines, art toys and memorabilia. The designs are redolent of Johnson Motor’s history, legendary logos and styles of the 1960’s that reinterpret the styles of icons like James Dean or Steve McQueen.

Nothing happened at JoMo for 36 years, and then its second history began. British vintage motorcycle collector Sean Kelly reanimated the brand’s name in 2004 in a Pasadena alley, just a stone’s throw from its original location. Kelly previously shipped classical American cars to Europe until he landed himself the trademark rights to Johnson Motors. Its reincarnation neither builds nor sells bikes – the store offers bike related retro T-shirts,

Although founder Sean Kelly studied art not fashion and therefore admits “I don’t know what I am doing,” he does things more than well. With his sure feeling of authenticity from way back and a love for detail, his styles are absolutely unique: short and form-fitting cuts, authentic materials like East German camouflage fabrics for the inner linings and back pockets of his jackets, or the classic arm-

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pockets, where Steve McQueen used to keep his beloved soft pack cigarettes.

The collections are cool and distinct without any hokum, so they are sought after in and around Hollywood. That’s probably why Sean Kelly recently opened up a second location on Melrose Avenue.

As male genes probably won’t mutate that fast, Johnson Motor’s styles will have good prospects, Sean explains: “There is a little bit of Steve McQueen in every man. You’ve just got to let it out.”

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Ain’t No Mountain High Enough ›› Nigel Cabourn ‹‹ ››› Probably the most impressive collection by ­Nigel Cabourn emerged in 2003 in homage to the New Zealand mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary, for the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest.

The parkas and pullovers of the expedition team from back then, were used as a guideline. To commemorate the death of the adventurer who died at the beginning of this year, some of the styles were updated under the Authentic Black Label by Nigel Cabourn. A percentage of the profits will be donated to the Himalayan Trust set up by Sir Edmund Hillary. ‹‹‹

Many of the jackets, trousers and shirts are from the 1940’s and 1950’s. Primarily items from the arrays of military, hunting, fishing, mountaineer-

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The British designer Nigel Cabourn has been in the textile business for more than 40 years. He was born in 1949 and lives and works in the North East town of Newcastle. From there he is drawn all over the world, due to one of his penchants being travelling. And while he is on his trips he further interests goes after one of his further penchants: he searches vintage stores and flea markets for significant pieces, which stem predominantly from the first half of the past century.

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ing and flying are of interest to him. In Cabourn’s archive there are by now more than 2000 pieces with a total worth of over 1.5 Million Euros to be found, among them some treasures of historic textile value. During our visit to his studio he showed us one of his rarest and oldest pieces: a navy blue “Burberry” coat from 1914, which was produced for officers of the French army.

How did he find this out? Well, he sent a photograph of the coat to “Burberry” and not only received the information on the year of production but also old pictures of these officers wearing exactly these coats. “The curator of ‘Burberry’s’ archive would

In addition he opens the Japanese “Free & Easy Magazine” at a page where the faded brown jacket is shown. He has lent several more pieces from his compiled collection to the “Free & Easy Rugged Museum” in Tokyo for an exhibition. Some of these exhibits have served as inspiration for Nigel’s collections. “First I buy the piece, then we photograph it and later when we are going to use something from it, like a pocket or collar detail, we take it from the digital picture and redesign it on the computer,” he explains and adds “I am not interested in copying styles or producing one to one replicas from the items. We put all of them in a pot and sometimes we take out a special detail, a form or use the material as a rack to develop our own fabric. We use the vintage pieces for inspiration and do a complete new interpretation in different colours and fabrics.” Ventile cotton, which is one of Nigel’s favorite materials, has been used for many items in his collections.

This ultimately long-lasting and resistant material was used for the dark navy cold weather parka. All NIGEL CABOURN

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like to buy it back, but I am not going to sell it,” says Nigel Cabourn. For the very well preserved coat he paid a few thousand Euros at the legendary “Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen” flea market in Paris. And his collection encompasses many other rare pieces, whose origin and intention for use is for example defined by military history books or books for film and theatre costumes. “This is one of Ralph Lauren’s favourite jackets,” says Nigel and places a dryback canvas hunting coat with a corduroy collar and two large poacher pockets, in which hunters store their slain wild animals, on the large wooden table.

these reworked authentic heritage garments and items of clothing are produced in the UK. For example the “Harris Tweed” for the “Tenzing Jacket”, which was named after the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, which accompanied Sir E. Hillary on his Mount Everest climb. Further expedition inspired highlights from the Authentic Line for Autumn/Winter 2008/09, are the 1943 “Mackintosh Coat” made of rubber coated cotton with very concise naval clip fastenings and the infantry jacket with plaid lining, made on an old hand loom.

the line contains cotton two tone jackets based on fits from A2 leather flight jackets, hooded summer parkas in light colours with brown wooden component details and an unlined trench coat made in a mix of herringbone at the top and on the arms and a gabardine main body. Nigel ends with the sentence “a coat like this you will have for the rest of your life and you can pass it on to your son”.

Nigel Cabourn and his team already showed us the first designs from the Spring/Summer 2009 collection. The inspiration for this came from the original Royal Air Force logbook belonging to his 88-yearold uncle Pete. Besides several shirts and blazers

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Nigel Cabourn studied Fashion Design in Newcastle in the 1960’s. In his final year at the University he already started his own label. He worked as a consultant and designer for brands like “Alpha”, “Barbour”, “Berghaus”, “Ellesse”, “Rohan” and many others. Today he also teaches at “Manchester University of Paper and Textile” and Fashion Design at “Newcastle University”. He is currently working on new projects and gave us the opportunity to ask him a few personal questions.

›››› What is your favourite piece in your wardrobe and how would you describe one of your typical outfits? What is your own style? ‹‹‹‹ Definitely my green army pants, American combat pants from 1951. I have three pairs of exactly the same ones. I usually buy them in a vintage store in Japan that do original ones from the 1950’s. I wear them nearly every day. Comfort is key for me. I am not so interested in something looking fashionable. I like to feel myself and wear a nice tweed jacket combined with a checked shirt. I never changed my look, I am wearing the same things now as I was 30 years ago. ›››› How would you describe the typical style of your collections? ‹‹‹‹ My style is authentically inspired. It has to come from the real thing; it never comes from a magazine. It may start with an old book, if I read some books based on Everest or Antarctica the inspiration comes out of there. Everything I do has a real functional detail. A jacket has to be functional. It has to work and it has to do what it says. My style is time­less like a pair of “501 Levi’s”; you know it’s just there ­­­forever. ›››› What characterises the brand Nigel Cabourn? ‹‹‹‹ Attention to details, authenticity and its long durability. I am very much into fabric, that’s the first thing I am inspired by. I have got a lot of friends who are fabric designers. Fabric is important to me as well as the details like zippers and buttons. Most people don’t care about this. The brand is not for trend based fashion. I am still getting phone calls from people trying to buy my Everest jacket from 2003.

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›››› Your first limited edition was released with a book that documented the philosophy, concept and product – when can we expect a second one and what will be the theme? ‹‹‹‹ It comes out next summer and we will dedicate it to Michael Hawthorn, Britain’s First Formula One world champion. He was a style icon and drove with Stirling Moss and Juan Manuel Fangio. He died in a traffic accident in 1959 only six months after he won the championship with Ferrari. ›››› Where is your favourite shopping area and which places do you consider as the most exciting and creative? ‹‹‹‹ I love Harajuku and Koiji in Tokyo the most. They are the two best shopping districts for vintage and new clothing. My favourite shopping area in Paris for vintage clothing and furniture is Clignancourt flea market. And besides New York and Paris I like the whole area of Melbourne with its beaches and the vibrant city life on the coast. ›››› How do you spend your free time and relax after work? ‹‹‹‹ Sometimes I play tennis, table tennis or do some work in the garden. Well you know I made my hobby my job and so I work most of the time. But all this business is nothing without a good family background, and I am very happy that I have a wonderful family.

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artigianato artistico ›› Mauro Grifoni ‹‹ ››› Somehow it is mysterious why the Italians produce such chic and elegant clothes. Clear proof that this preconception is absolutely true is the timeless elegance and classical design brand by Mauro Grifoni from Caldogno. ‹‹‹

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It all started with a series of handmade shirts in 1992 designed by founder Mauro Grifoni in a small village near Vincenza. Encouraged by its success, other products were soon designed until finally a complete male look had taken shape. In 1997 a women’s collection was launched, followed by the first jeans line in 2001. The brand’s collection is safe from any mass-marketed trends. Mauro Grifoni produces a sophisticated, metropolitan wardrobe made of the best materials around, finished by first-class tailoring finesse. Their own description of the styles fits perfectly: “Unexpected classicism, playful understatement and new tradition meet up in a subdued but precious recipe conceived for a

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demanding palate.” Their ladies’ collection is a mixture of bold contrasts and homogeneous, classical designs, while being charmingly elegant and sensual. M.G.’s men’s range is characterised by relaxed old-school elegance, is rich in iconic and classic details, light, understated, nonchalant but not too perfect, and always with a twist. Slim, short trousers or comfy slacks, slender stripy shirts with embroidered crests matched with washed Shetland jackets, rural parkas or abbreviated trench coats.

The silhouettes are slim and fit close to the body.

The denim section mixes college-style jackets with Oxford or washed cotton shirts, striped sweaters

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and chinos. Another highlight of the Grifoni collection is the Super-vintage denim section, which is made entirely in Japan. Classical five-pocket jeans with clean lines, skinny fits and individual finishings dominate men’s and women’s casual wear.

The entire range is completed by different accessories such as shoes, belts, bags, scarves and ties.

Additionally, to make the juniors reflect the typically Italian chic as well, a kidswear line is on its way, too.

----------------------------------------------------www.maurogrifoni.com ----------------------------------------------------mauro grifoni

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New York’s Vintage Specialists ›› what comes around goes around ‹‹ ››› The college friends Gerard Maione and Seth Weisser founded a vintage boutique named “What Comes Around Goes Around” in 1993, situated in New York City’s Soho district. In Spring 2006 they launched the What Comes Around Goes Around collection, a vintage inspired contemporary line for men and women. ‹‹‹

When Gerard Maione and Seth Weisser began searching for vintage pieces for their boutique 15 years ago in Japan, Europe, Canada and the US, time and again they discovered rare and unique historically valuable pieces and textiles. The two fourty year olds have over the years built up one of

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The What Comes Around Goes Around shop on West Broadway is best known for its extensive collection of vintage items such as high end designer, concert T-shirts, leather jackets, western wear, boots and one of the largest collections of denim apparel on the East Coast. However this is not all that is behind the label.

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the largest and most notable collections of vintage in the world. “One of my personal favourites is a Tshirt with printed artwork by Andy Warhol from the Rolling Stones album cover ‘Love You Live’, which was handed out during the release party in LA 1977.

It carries a personal autograph from Warhol and is limited to 100 pieces.” Seth Weisser, the President of What Comes Around Goes Around explains, when asked which piece is his favourite.

Since then the worldwide vintage network and their own collection have grown further and further. The over 100,000 items of clothing are kept in a 650 square meter loft in Manhattan, not far

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from the subway stop Canal Street. Here designers and stylists can find an inventory of vintage clothing, accessories, fashion collectibles and museum quality children’s wear dating from the 1860’s to the 1980’s, for design inspiration, editorials and costuming. “Our collection includes all genres of vintage including designer, denim, sportswear, western, military and period clothing,” explains Seth Weisser.

tos Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdales and Harvey Nichols. Since 2005 the “Antique Textile and Swatch Library” is housed in the loft style showroom on Laight Street, where designers can let themselves be amply inspired for their collections.

“What comes around goes around is one of the nation’s premier vintage destinations for the public and fashion industry alike.” Says Seth Weisser and he adds “Our ‘Antique Textile Library’ offers a wide range of vintage garments and accessories, dating back to the Victorian era.” So naturally on this basis the opportunity presented itself to design their own collection.

The inspiration of the WCAGA collection for Au-

Additionally Gerard and Seth have set up a wholesale business that supplies vintage clothing and accessories to upscale retailers all over the world such as Barney‘s, Polo Ralph Lauren, John Varva-

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tumn 2008 is a glamorous blend of classic modern design details from the late 1920’s combined with early 1970’s silhouettes.

while designing this season.” The result is sexy and sophisticated. The line carries silk blouses made of luxurious fabrics such as crepe de chine or silk charmeuse, tweed pencil skirts, mini and maxi-dresses with scaled geometric prints as well as coats in leather and satin blazers.

“As with every season, the core design theme is the late 1960’s to early 1970’s,” Creative Director Gerard Maione says. “But this season, we decided to incorporate the glamour of the Art Deco era to make the collection really elegant. We had style icons Greta Garbo and Claudette Colbert in mind

Additionally the men’s collection is designed with a vintage aesthetic and lifestyle in mind and reflects a sophisticated blend of English nobility, 1930’s

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American collegiate prep and late 1960’s rock ‘n roll edginess. Menswear designer and co-owner Gerard Maione says: “I was inspired by the dandy meets rocker style of the early ‘Rolling Stones’ and antique English tapestries embroidered with noble crests. These guys are wearing preppy shirts and blazers, but with most of the buttons undone. They are mixing elegant pinstripe pants with a rough leather motorcycle jacket - it’s English nobility gone rock star.”

The What Comes Around Goes Around collection is available in upscale and specialty department stores worldwide and now in 14 oz. Berlin.

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The Fifth Element ›› Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair ‹‹ ››› When Astrid Olsson and Lee Cotter set up their label‚ Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair in 2004, the name caused a great deal of bewilderment. A shoe repair service from Stockholm? And why Fifth Avenue? The styles of the duo have for a long time been speaking their own clear language and a bit of bewilderment at best adds to their unruly joy at experimentation. ‹‹‹

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A dynamic dress with padded skirt seams and a huge draped rosette, a puffball skirt, reminiscent of a lampshade, a rainwear ensemble made of transparent PVC - on first inspection the majority of the Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair Autumn-Wintershow outfits dispersed a great deal from the minimalist Scandinavian look. However on second inspection they are present, the perfectly fitted suit trousers, tailored blouson jackets and nonchalant cardigans in primarily muted colours – wearable yet still elaborate, classic, but interpretable in a versatile manner. Precisely, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair. “In our shows we present our main collections, but also pieces from our more experimental

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line ‘by the No.’,” explains Astrid Olsson.

“We don’t want to separate the couture and prêtà-porter approach. Many of the findings we draw from the hand made work from ‘by the No.’ flow into the collection. Sometimes this is just a certain type of bag or the course of a seam.” Craftsmanship, attention to detail and a love of fabrics are something Astrid and her partner Lee honour, and for which they are prepared to walk the extra mile in order to achieve it. In fact the label is inspired by an old shoemaker’s shop in London that has gone from generation to generation, passing on knowledge in craftsmanship of this old profession. Since classic tailoring and pattern making was a priority

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when building the brand the duo decided to name it Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair.

Their first store was opened in January of 2006 in the popular Stockholm area of Södermalm. In just under 18 square meters were located a studio, showroom and point of sale – the fans of the brand shouldn’t have been put off by this and by now there are over 150 shops in Europe, Asia and the United States, which stock them. Astrid recalls: “The beginning was exciting because we had 16 year old hipster girls in cheeky stilettos, slim boys in oversized T-shirts, but also elegant Italian tourists in their pensioner years, who came to us.

Even today there is not a typical Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair customer, everyone interprets the clothes differently. Often the gender boundaries disappear, women are interested in a men’s jumper and men on the other hand will buy a women’s top.”

A breath of androgyny is to be found in every collection by the duo. Whilst Astrid adds her weakness for kimonos and the classic Japanese design approach, where the focus is on draping and deconstruction, Lee often works memories from his childhood in the United Kingdom and the school uniforms associated with this into his menswear line. Further inspiration comes from architecture, cubism and sculpture. Especially the pieces from the ‘by the No.’ line remind strongly of sculpture and are each a small work of art – as for the current key piece “No 2/5 Tulle Dress”, where believe it or not 100 meters of tulle were used.

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“Naturally we must break down our wild ideas a bit for the main line, but the quality of the materials and the production meet our requirements at all times. The clothing should be affordable and yet still expensive enough to be valued for what it is worth and looked after accordingly.”

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Astrid and Lee do not care too much for fastmoving trends and throw away mentalities, and as with their design approach their label philosophy orientates itself on an “old school” way of doing things.

“We follow a kind of ethical code of honour with our clients and suppliers. It is based on trust, punctual payments and deliveries. We also try to create a healthy working atmosphere in our own studio, and actually finish work at 6 o clock.” The good old world, and yet so “very Scandinavian”.

----------------------------------------------------www.shoerepair.se ----------------------------------------------------Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

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Whyred – why not? ›› WHYRED ‹‹ ››› For several seasons a wave of Scandinavian ­labels has been taking the textile market by storm. To throw them all in one basket is not possible anymore, there being specific differences by now - as the wheat separates itself from the chaff. With ten years of successful company experience Whyred has raised its profile and status enough to be beyond the hype of being “just another Scando brand”. ‹‹‹

Responsible for the design and the accompanying sophisticated brand world are Roland Hjort, Jonas Clason and Lena Patriksson. After the three

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It was the colourful, perfectly fitted Five-Pocketjeans that opened the doors of retail for the Stockholm based label and paved its way to success.

Primarily producing menswear basics and denim in the beginning, today the 300 piece collection encompasses shoes as well as textiles, accessories and sunglasses – also for ladies. 230 shops in 21 countries sell the reduced yet concise look from up north and praise from the international press is not about to stop.

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friends spent years gathering experiences separately in the most diverse areas with brands such as “J.Lindeberg”, “H&M”, “All Saints” and several high fashion designers, it became clear what they did and did not want. Whyred was supposed to be designed, but not aloof, suitable for the everyday but not streetwear. It is the post-modern simplistic aesthetics that characterise Whyred, the collections pay homage to the subtle beauty in what is seemingly humdrum, but also the complexity of multifaceted humanity.

“We are moving within a very subtle world of design, in which small details define the inspiration,”

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explains head designer Roland Hjort. For every collection film stars and their characters are the inspiration, for example Woody Allen’s “New York” film or Roman Polanski’s “Rosemary’s Baby”. For Autumn 08 Marilyn Monroe is the ideal muse, being the ultimate symbol of a paradox character.

The fabricated Hollywood image of a glamorous sex symbol stands in complete contrast to her private saddened and dishevelled self. Inspiration is also found in strong and complex Hitchcock-figures, and the type of character presented in the new look are ballsy go-ahead heroines and heroes with the ability to reinvent themselves for everyday adventures.

And Roland Hjort is already eagerly working on the upcoming season, which is to take on a particularly special significance for Whyred. “In 2009 we are celebrating our 10 year existence. Our motto will be ‘Whyred in love’ and lovers from the history of film will be our source of ideas. I am thinking about Vanessa Paradis and Johnny Depp with their very headstrong sense of style. I cannot reveal much WHYRED

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more for the moment, just this: red will play a key part in the collection.”

The beautiful art was also what gave the brand its name. Roland’s grandfather Sven X:et Erixon, one of the most successful Scandinavian artists, was once asked for his favourite colour in an interview.

Unsure he answered “red”. The journalist then asked him “Why red”? To which he replied, “Well then blue.” In any case better than merely black or white. The Whyred makers are not able to make sense of this way of thinking and lifestyle. And this is reflected in their clothes.

Matters of the heart have always had a high rank in the house of Whyred, an important one being art, specifically cooperations with artists. This is how enchanting underwear featuring illustrations by Jockum Nordström or bags with leather embossed sketches evolved by the artist Roger Andersson.

Most recently Malin Petterson Öberg adorned the walls of the Stockholm Whyred-Flagship store with her artwork. “It is good for the soul to work with artists because there are no rules at all to adhere to,” Roland Hjort says enthusiastically.

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Lightness of Being ›› Paul & Joe Sister ‹‹ ››› Sir Peter Ustinov once said: “Parisian women are really elegant. They don’t even get nervous turning 30.” The myth about the effortless chic of the French capital’s inhabitants is not just a myth, it is simply the truth. The “Paul & Joe”-label was founded in the 1990’s and translates this matchless attitude of “joie de vivre” – the joy of life - into clothing. ‹‹‹

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Paul and Joe must be amazingly well dressed; they are, in fact, the first names of the two sons of the designer, Sophie Albou, and the inspiration behind the brand name. Born into a family of Parisian shirt makers she studied at the French Institute of Fashion. Barely awarded a diploma, she had the opportunity to begin her career with one of the most talented Parisian designers, Azzedine Alaïa. For six years, Sophie Albou brought her talent to the service of several French prêt-à-porter labels, before deciding to create her own. And so in 1995, the first collection for men of Paul & Joe was launched. The elegant but relaxed style captivated her first customers. In 1996, Sophie Albou took a

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new step with a collection for women. Today the Paul & Joe collection includes womenswear, menswear, children’s fashion and accessories, as well as beauty and lingerie collections. Success was quickly achieved and the designer opened shops from Pa-ris to Tokyo, and New York to Sydney, London to St Tropez.

But Sophie Albou cultivates a certain art of living and remains, wherever she goes, an inveterate bargain hunter. The creator shares her passion with all her customers by decorating her shops with her latest finds: furniture, accessories, objects bought during her travels, bringing a unique and friendly atmosphere to shops and showrooms.

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In 2005 the company created the “Paul & Joe Sister” line to answer to a clear demand from many markets and those women in love with the style of the Paul & Joe brand, though still dreaming of being able to afford the product. The dream is now achievable thanks to Paul & Joe Sister targeting a wider clientele. The same coolness can be found there - silhouettes a little retro, carefully chosen fabrics; colours and brightly printed material are the key to the collection. Paul & Joe Sister embodies a style that is bold, sparkling and slightly retro; the collections are light and definitely have a light-hearted feel as well. “I like women to have a presence that’s always fun and beautiful, and I’d like men to be gentle, positive and a little bit wild,” Sophie Albou explains.

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The main ideas of Sophie’s designs come from her everyday life as not only a creator but also a mother and a working woman. With “Accessible Luxury” as the guiding concept, her creative approach is based on cherishing both the freedom of creativity in fashion and the personality of the wearer. Sophie Albou adores the chic, retro details of the 1920’s and 1930’s, and has a knack for crafting those details into contemporary, modern styles.

Amongst many celebrity clients is Vanessa Paradis, one of the brand’s biggest aficionados - embodying the perfect stereotype of the beautiful, strong and enchanting French woman.

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the patron saints of print “en franÇais” ›› CACHAREL ‹‹ ››› In times where trends are short lived and the term “retro” has become a cover word, it may seem inflationary when a fashion label suddenly goes back to its roots. That the French traditional fashion house Cacharel is about much more than nostalgia is shown by the commitment of the designer duo Eley Kishimoto. Bringing on board an excellent reputation and great taste they are getting ready to reconquer a first league position within the high fashion stakes. ‹‹‹

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Jean Bousquet is a self-made man by the book.

At just 30 years old he founded the label Cacharel in his home town of Nîmes in 1962. In order to highlight the close connection to his origins Bousquet helped himself to the story behind the name of the local dialect of the Provence. “Salle d’été” is what the French call a kind of duck, which as its name reveals, settles in the ceaseless pastures of the Rhône during the warmer months. In and around the Camargue, which this area south of Nîmes is called, the bird is simply called “cacharel”.

Accordingly subtle and simple is how the son of the sewing machine dealer kept things in his first designs. Even back then it was all about uncompli-

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cated clothing, which was to set trends for exactly that reason. Bousquet’s secret recipe: materials in bright colours, as he was used to from his home.

The designer aimed at a new, very French picture of a woman, natural femininity, elegance and vitality. With his women’s blouses Bousquet hit the nerve of the time, and so Cacharel had arrived on the global fashion scene by 1963 when the legendary seersucker blouse graced the coverpage of “Elle” Magazine.

Until today Cacharel is a brand that stands for transition: transition from the “flower-girl” to the “flower-girl-woman”, transition from the “tenderness/romanticism” to the “claimed greediness rock’n’roll”.

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If a traditional fashion house works together with a team such as Eley Kishimoto, change naturally plays a role, even if the two seemingly fit together almost too well on first inspection. On the one hand the fashion house that made its name with prints, and on the other the designer duo with the industry stamp as the “patron saints of print”. “Eley and Kishimoto are perfect for us,” said Philippe Cardon, Cacharel’s Chief Executive Officer. “They have the house’s spirit in their blood.” Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto have next to their own designs made a name for themselves with work for “Alexander McQueen” or “Marc Jacobs” and “Louis Vuitton”. At present, they have partnerships with “Mitsui” for

a line of licensed products in Japan, and they also work with “Ratti”, the Italian textile company, on textile design. Apart from this the two create prints for everything from tea sets to just about anything that they can get their hands on. In this respect it is also their goal to loosen the up until now quite “tight corset” of the fashion world.

Still Eley Kishimoto want to go back to the essence of their ideas at Cacharel, in order to underline the traditional trademark of the house. “We want it to be fresh and go back to its roots,” says Kishimoto.

“It should be joyful, but not overly flamboyant.” So here too: bright colours, high quality materials, accentuated femininity in the design approach and

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natural products, for all it’s worth. New patterns such as “Camouflage Sky” or “Cable Jacquard” consciously try to combine tradition with modernity.

As Mark Eley likes to underline, the two of them see their duty as clearly living up to the “sophisticated French spirit” even today, while at the same time presenting a youthful, liberal image.

Just as the aim is to harmonise a rich inheritance with a modern vision, a perfect match seems to have been found in Eley Kishimoto and Cacharel.

The first joint show for the Autumn/Winter 2008 collection in Paris was a great success. Eley and Kishimoto, who are privately also an item, are even considering moving to Paris – at least for a few months a year. Pourquois pas?

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Telling stories ›› chapter two ‹‹ ››› The Frenchmen David Feder and David Hadida have been friends since they were 12 years old, and early on both were clear about what they wanted to do together in their adult life. They initially realised themselves in art- and street art projects, and after a while they felt it was time to open up a new chapter. In 2008 Chapter Two was launched. ‹‹‹

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The goal of their fashion label is the redefinition of “basic”, they aim to create easy to wear pieces with a fresh spirit in high quality materials and with a strong focus on prints. And the boys are certainly no greenhorns. David Feder previously worked as a denim designer for labels such as “Pepe Jeans” and “Blue Cult”, and David Hadida concentrated on the streetwear business and co-founded the brand “Criminal” in London.

With Chapter Two they assimilate their fascination with the aesthetics of the early 19th Century, especially their love for books, advertising and posters from this epoch. All other inspiration is easily found in their home surroundings of Saint Paul – Le

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Marais, where the historical “Glorie Paris” as well as the progressive meet.

All products are hand-made on old machines in a small family run factories in Morocco. The collection for women and men is manageable, consisting of 20 pieces mainly in jersey and knit, of mostly tops and leggings.

Whilst their Autumn/Winter 2008/09 collection features mainly grey and black, the two David’s promise that for the warmer season they will launch a very colourful collection. Looking forward to the next chapter!

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Like a bird ›› ParkVogel ‹‹ ››› T-shirts are often quite happily declared as the most democratic of all pieces of clothing. That this is not the case, is known to everyone who has ever slipped into a comfortable cashmere T-shirt. A real luxury tee needs an elaborate cut, the right colour and the perfect material. A tip for all those who are still searching: just ask ParkVogel! ‹‹‹

Vanessa, who worked on many high profile films throughout her 15 years as a costume designer, including “Good Will Hunting”, “Indecent Proposal” and “Lovely and Amazing”, spent so much time looking for just the right T-shirts that she wanted to start her own line. Julie, who had been designing her own collections for years, was interested in

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The moniker comes from the last names of the two women who began the clothing line out of their L.A. home in 2004. Julie Park, a graphic artist turned fashion designer, and Vanessa Vogel, a costume designer, both wanted to create one essential but versatile piece, the perfect T-shirt.

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simplifying her focus to more basic pieces. When they first met, both were working on other projects but would meet after hours at a Little Tokyo noodle shop in Los Angeles to discuss their plans.

They quickly forged a close bond and got to work combining their creative talents. They had a tiny swatch of fabric from Italy and a few vintage Tshirts that they would pass back and forth imagining how their first T-shirt would look and feel.

In October of 2004 ParkVogel launched a limited edition of their first collection from Julie’s home/ garage. This was made possible in part by Vanessa taking out an equity loan from a home she had re-

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cently purchased, taking a huge risk on a company where the market was extremely competitive.

But obviously there was no need to worry. With collective ambition, creativity and ingenuity, ParkVogel has become more than just a T-shirt company.

The label has grown to include a luxurious cashmere line and cosy intimates along with a range of T-shirt must-haves. Dresses, jumpers, cardigans, pants and sweaters, not to forget the wide selection of accessories in an unimagined range of silhouettes and colours complete the range. Made from the finest fabrics and yarns, ParkVogel pieces are affordable without compromising quality; the 100% mercerised cotton is ultra soft and feminine yet durable, the look always laid-back.

Even more importantly: Julie and Vanessa have researched ways to produce their line without harming the environment. They have turned to an eco-friendly mill in Australia that knits the environmentally considerate Swiss and Italian cotton in compliance with strict European standards by saving energy, reducing emissions and recycling the water treatment process, to produce the colourful array of yarns for their shirts.

Speaking of colours: for this Autumn Vanessa and Julie have created a wonderful palette of granite, sapphire, pebble, black, carob, crimson, nickle und magenta that are predestined to become long term wardrobe essentials.

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----------------------------------------------------www.parkvogel.com ----------------------------------------------------ParkVogel

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And what would a label from LA be without the glamour factor and name dropping? Here we go: The line is a favourite amongst Hollywood’s costume designers and will be seen on Charlize Theron in the upcoming release of “Aeon Flux” and is in heavy rotation with the cast members of “ER”, “The O.C.” and “Joan of Arcadia”. Further the label has become an “off red carpet favourite” and stars such as Halle Berry, Angelina Jolie, Nicole Richie, Eva Longoria, Kate Hudson, Katherine Heigl and Scarlett Johannson are amongst their fans.

Maybe their big success comes from Julie and Vanessa’s example of serving as an inspiration to women. Proving that anyone with a dream, courage, planning and a strong belief can indeed accomplish great things.

Individuality for the postmodern female ›› vibe johansson ‹‹ ››› The Danish designer Vibe Johansson creates clothing for strong, assertive women and describes her style as confident and long-lasting, where quality is an essential. She is trying to create a different type of femininity with her clothes, which is not girly or silly but strong and individual. ‹‹‹

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Having trained at the “Polimoda Fashion Institute” in Florence as well as the “BEC Designteknologist” in Copenhagen she presented her first collection for Autumn/Winter 2008/09 in February of 2008.

Vibe’s influences are taken from the postmodern Japanese history of style, as well as the legacy of rock music and deconstructive architecture and design. Thus she prefers to be inspired by shapes and textures, rather than specific themes and trends and she values the concept of simplicity, both in the sensible choice of colours as well as the simple geometrical shapes of squares and circles she experiments with in her patternmaking. The materials she uses are of high quality and the pieces are

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produced in the same Italian factories as “Miu Miu” and “Stella McCartney”, with high fashion production expertise. Even though there has been a distinct Danish style emerging from a group of young designers over the last few years, Vibe Johansson does not want to limit herself to the stamp “Danish” but rather enjoys taking inspiration and work drive from different fields and parts of the world.

The type of femininity she is trying to create is for a customer who is strong-minded and individual and who knows and appreciates good quality and materials. She says of herself that she will keep on trying to explore new ways and methods to carry this philosophy and that she is especially fascinat-

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ed with the techniques and never-ending possibilities of draping.

On future plans Vibe clarifies: “I like the idea of creating a continuous look; something that compliments people’s existing wardrobes, and doesn’t try to compensate it. I would be happy to see my designs lasting longer than the usual fashion and trend cycle, which I don’t care much about.” Vibe Johansson’s customers carry their sexiness from

within. The designer is not very interested in the overtly sexual idea of clothing - sexiness to her is about allure, not exposure. “When I see this reflected in my pieces and the women who wear them, I feel that I have achieved my goal.” she explains.

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vibe johansson

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Perfectly basic ›› velvet / Graham & Spencer ‹‹ ››› From the simple to the complex: the American designers Jenny Graham and Toni Spencer launched a second label next to their T-shirt line Velvet, whose feminine easy to wear pieces have a clever idea behind them: due to their subtle beauty they are combinable with all imaginable accessories. ‹‹‹

As a result Velvet was created by Graham and Spencer, a contemporary T-shirt collection that offers a fresh approach for women, which demand more than just novelty from fashion. It is almost 10 years since the girls launched the successful line. And

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Sometimes nothing is more evident than the classic path. The entrepreneur duo from Los Angeles concentrated on the essential things at the beginning of their career. They didn’t ponder for long, took a deep breath and were sure: We want a basis. Something beautiful, to be able to build on.

Simple and subtle, an initial point to start from, the particular foundation for styling.

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while Velvet remains a private company, primarily manufactured in LA, in 2006 a new luxury collection was introduced, which was named after them: Graham and Spencer. From the foundation the main collection evolved, which softly and elaborately amplifies their idea further. The collection includes an array of dresses, skirts, tunics, leggings, jackets and coats. The palette is entirely and deliberately neutral: black, charcoal, ink and chocolate informed by touches of butter and snow.

The two creators have styled “Red Hot Chilli Peppers” videos and written articles for fashion insider’s forecasting service “WGSN”. Salma Hayek and

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Charlize Theron are among their many Hollywood fans. It is particularly the way their dresses fall, the girlishness and subtleness, which made them popular. It seems as if an eternal air of spring flows

through all their designs, whereby all their collections are characterised by sophisticated elegance and effortlessness, but captivate through their luxurious materials.

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velvet / Graham & Spencer

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Time travel ›› alice san diego / venti cappotti / venti cappelli ‹‹ ››› Massimo Sorgenti’s stock room may well bring tears to the eyes of die-hard vintage fans. The man from Parma is not only the master of one of the largest collections of clothing from the 1950’s and 1960’s in Italy, but also has one of the most remarkable magazine archives at his disposal. ‹‹‹

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For many years stylists and fashion designers from renowned Italian fashion houses borrowed original pieces from Sorgenti’s resources, until he decided to utilise his treasure for himself and restore the historical designs for the new millennium. Together with his son Simone, Massimo gave life to his own clothing line Alice San Diego. Until today the slightly modified original cuts deliver the perfect basis for an elegant look. The “generationduo” finds further inspiration in old magazines, especially old issues of “Vogue”. From these the two copy decade old prints, reproduce these and have the most luxurious silks or wools imprinted with them. The designs of Alice San Diego play-

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fully entice to travel back in time, and icons such as Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O. would surely have fallen head over heals for the mini dresses in A- or trapeze lines, with precious embellished buttons or pretty revers.

And because a ladylike dress should always have an entire look to complete it, the businessman Sorgenti decided to launch the labels Venti Cappotti und Venti Cappelli additionally. As the name suggests, the concept is simple and compelling: per season twenty coats and twenty hats are presented, all encompassing the vintage look and perfectly combinable among each other – as if time had just stood still.

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A close-knit family ›› Roberto Collina ‹‹ ››› It is known that “La Familia” is of the highest importance for Italians. Especially in the textiles sector the family band is tightly woven and experiences are passed down from generation to generation. If you ask Roberto Collina about when he started in this milieu he would say, in a genuinely Bolognese way, that he was actually born and raised among the knits.. ‹‹‹

After his graduation in the early 1980’s, Roberto’s presence in the company strengthened as he injected new life into the business with an innovative concept, uniting tradition and the new marketing impulses. The Roberto Collina brand was initially established in January of 1983, and since then has

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His presently well-established, eponymous label boasts a knitwear family tradition dating back to the late 1950’s. The family run company, in fact, has been producing for almost 50 years now, showing and giving Roberto’s passion and knowledge of the product as for the materials and production techniques from his first steps in the fashion industry.

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stood as a synonym for knitwear quality, combining knowledge of the product and a constant strive for improvement. What first started out as simply menswear, was soon completed by womens styles, both consistently translating current trends into knitwear. Based in Crevalcore, close to Bologna, the company is proud to declare that all the products, which leave their production deserve the precious certification “100% made in Italy”.

Presently, the Roberto Collina Company is distributed throughout the important international fashion markets and currently sold at 300 retailers, amongst them heavyweights such as Bergdorf

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Goodman NYC, Harvey Nichols London, Ships Tokyo and last but not least 14 oz. Berlin. Welcome!

----------------------------------------------------www.robertocollina.com ----------------------------------------------------roberto collina

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Still workin’! ›› woolrich ‹‹ ››› Woolrich has a long history as an outerwear brand to look back on. From simple workwear in the 19th century to the famous “Arctic Parka” of today: the company’s style remains close to its original values, yet giving them a modern interpretation: comfort, durability, resistance, warmth and simplicity. ‹‹‹

Initially the boss himself sold the materials, socks or blankets to the lumberjacks in the area. Success finally arrived along with the economic boom, and out of the small wool mill emerged an entire town – carrying the name Woolrich! John Rich knew that he did

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It all began in the contemplative Pennsylvania: In Germantown, around the corner from Philadelphia, the young John Rich began earning his first dollars as a wool carder in 1811. Just twenty years later he had saved enough money to buy his first own wool factory. And so in 1830 Woolrich was founded, which is until today the oldest outdoor clothing brand in the United States.

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not only want to produce to help but also for society as a whole. As a result a give-and-take system developed, due to the fact that the workers at Woolrich often knew best themselves what type of clothing their colleagues who worked on the fields and in the new industrial facilities required. At the very peak of this industrial revolution was the railway. As the railroads penetrated every corner of Pennsylvania, railroad men needed vests with watch pockets. Form followed function, and the Woolrich mill developed what has become known as the “Railroad Vest”.

Addressing the community also had an effect on the years that followed. The company was the town and

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the town was the company; next to jobs the successor of the business John Rich II took care of not only clothing, but also the societal infrastructure in the mid 19th century: schools, streets and even churches were built with the help of Woolrich.

through Pennsylvania. When he stopped over at a fish factory he noticed that all the workers were wearing the same jacket, in order to shield themselves from the cold in the freezer building. The idea that emerged as a result, of creating a jacket, which was warm as well as comfortable and weather resilient as well as stylish, made an especially huge impact in Europe.

The tradition of interpreting the needs of those who wear the collection is cultivated by the company still today. Just as the “Railroad Vest” had emerged more than 150 years prior, Woolrich’s biggest success in the 20th century developed out of field studies.

The “Original Arctic Parka” fundamentally changed the idea of elegant yet warm winter clothing, and so set the foundation for several followers. The jacket was particularly successful in Italy.

At the beginning of the 1990‘s a representative of the new European distribution for Woolrich travelled

With their experience and consequent philosophy

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of quality and utility the company is inimitably able to know today what will be worn tomorrow. In the last decades this stance has also been transmitted to aesthetic criteria. Next to high quality materials, which endure every kind of weather, Woolrich’s designs also bear the charm of the American countryside. The fascinating thing being that this working mens approach does not become dowdy or boring at any point. Whether a cardigan or leather jacket, fashion or functionality undergo a symbiosis, without either one of them having to compromise: clothing in all its possibilities.

Today Woolrich tries to be more open to trend requirements. Naturally the quality of the products may not suffer as a result. For the Winter 2008 collection the colour chart has been enriched by stronger shades of red, blue, green and new hues of grey and beige.

Top items come in different versions, with detachable hoods and furs, woollen collars instead of fur collars, authentic sheepskin collars replaceable with hoods that are provided as standard with the jackets. The classic parka has been revisited as an “Arctic Field” jacket, with a city life look, intermediate length and various types of wearability. A new winter nylon parka version is also available.

That this combination of stylish, warm and sportive design is available for women as well goes without saying. Especially for them techniques such as the 60/40 layering concept have been developed, using the expertise of Japanese produced Nylon with thermo padding, guaranteeing a constant temperature.

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Whether on holiday, on the way to work or whilst working outdoors: Woolrich knows what looks good and still keeps you warm. It is hardly surprising then that other products from the brand, whether they are summer dresses or shorts, display the same good taste. The experience with highest-quality fabrics as well as serving customer needs over two centuries has proven: tradition and zeitgeist can work together very well indeed.

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Never Stop Exploring ›› The North Face ‹‹ ››› For more than fourty years adventurers and extreme athletes have relied on highly functional clothing, tents and backpacks from The North Face on their expeditions. The white stripes of the logo on a red background symbolise the world famous northern wall of the half dome in the climbing Mecca Yosemite in California. ‹‹‹

The new head Kenneth Klopp, who was simply called “Hap” by all, turned an outdoor shop with a team of fourteen people into one of the most notable manufacturers of outdoor products with over 1,000 employ-

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The North Face was founded in 1966 by the passionate mountain climber Douglas Tompkins, who led an outdoor shop in San Francisco under this name.

Having laid the foundation for the world renowned brand of today within just two years, Douglas Tompkins handed over The North Face to Kenneth “Hap” Klopp. Afterwards Tomkins invented another brand, imparted with it and later bought huge plots of land in Chile and pronounced them a national park.

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ees. Initially innovative items of equipment for mountaineers were produced in a back room, and then sold at the front in the shop. The abundance of ideas from Klopp’s team quickly spread through word of mouth and other outdoor retailers took on The North Face equipment into their range. Within only two years the demand increased so much that the production was moved to a factory in Berkeley. The brand developed further and further along with the products. Thus the abbreviation of the brandname TNF became a synonym for sturdy and reliable equipment. In the year 1975 The North Face revolutionised the world of tent design in collaboration with the architect Buckminster Fuller. The head of TNF asked Fuller, who had

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already constructed extremely stable half circular tents in the 1950’s, to remove a tent with minimal material effort. The result was the oval intention tent, where the principle of crossing over tent poles was employed. The North Face was the first manufacturer to use flexible aluminium rods in order to realise this design. Just one year later TNF devised the “Big Foot” sleeping bag with a synthetic polarguard filling. This type of construction was also totally new: The pockets of the sleeping bag filled with fleece, overlapped like pantiles. As a result less coldness was able to break in, and accordingly less heat could escape. The principle became standard procedure for high quality synthetic sleeping bags.

In the Californian San Leandro, time was increasingly devoted to the production of winter suitable equipment. In 1978 the first American women‘s expedition in the Himalayas was sponsored under the command of Arlene Blum. Up until today the list of attendees of the TNF sponsored expeditions reads like a who-iswho of mountain sport royalty: Jim Bridwell, Jeff und Alex Lowe, David Breshears, Greg Child, Doug Scott,

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Jon Krakauer, Lynn Hill, Conrad Anker – just to name a few. Up until today the product development profits from the experiences and ideas of such extreme athletes. This became very obvious in the early 1980‘s when The North Face began developing skiwear. In order to find out which requirements the jackets and pants needed to maintain their position, numerous ski teachers were hired impromptu, who tested the TNF prototypes in accordance with the heart and lungs for endurance. The success can today be inspected on every tour summit and in every ski lift queue – the brand‘s logo is omnipresent.

who have to go outdoors in every kind of weather or must be prepared for weather changes on their bicycle tour, whilst working on a building site or walking their dog, should not leave the house without the almost totally water resistant, breathable, ultra light and resilient “Goretex” jackets from the Summit Series by The North Face. The jackets are improved year by year so that recreational athletes can be just as well equipped as those involved in extreme sports.

The secret of the company lies in not saving on quality or details – independent of whether a product is meant for hiking or for the eight thousand meters.

But not only adventurers and extreme athletes appreciate the value of the highly functional jackets. Those

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the north face

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Arctic Equipment ›› canada goose ‹‹ ››› The expedition parkas from Canada Goose satisfy the highest needs in heat insulation and wearing comfort.

Polar explorers, coastal guards and the military have been trusting the styles of the Canadian winter coat brand, who are in a position to look back on fifty years of history, for a long time. ‹‹‹

Next to excellent quality and premium materials, the responsible company policy is above all the reason for the success of the brand from Toronto.

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Canada Goose have been producing extremely winter resistant jackets for half a century and use mostly duck and goose down, which are approved by the Canadian “Down & Feather Products Association”. But not only the fillings of the jackets are of selected quality: on the outside most of the models are encased in “Arctic Tech”, an extremely robust and weather resistant mixture made of 85 percent polyester and 15 percent cotton, or other upper materials such as hard wearing rip-stop-nylon, cordura, g-tech or dry-release.

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Dani Reiss, the CEO of Canada Goose, clarifies how important this authenticity is: “After fifty successful years the future development of Canada Goose is dependant on how close we follow our core statements and values.” One of these values is that the brand produces in Canada, which is extremely convenient for some of the larger clients such as the Canadian military, the US coastal guards or polar explorers, due to the fact that in their own countries perfect testing conditions are available.

Made in Canada, worn on the North and South Pole, on Mount Everest, in Siberia, or wherever else it at least gets to feel very cold. The classic CG parkas feature

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a coyote fur trimmed hood, which fends off the worst weather. The timeless, subtle and luxurious jackets are therefore ideally suited for New York, Tokyo, Milan, Berlin or Chamonix to fight off the cold. The women’s models are cut femininely and waisted, while features such as a fleece filled chin cup or handwarming pockets warm up every day.

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warmbat hunter rubber duck bloch tricker‘s n.d.c. made by hand blundstone shoo clarks originals alden red wing

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the world class workboot ›› Red Wing ‹‹ ››› Red Wing boots are named after a small town close to the Mississippi River in the Southeast of the state of Minnesota. The workboot company was born in this town more than 100 years ago and still manufactures its boots from the Heritage Work collection by hand on antique sewing machines from the 1920’s and 1930’s. ‹‹‹

One of them was the German Charles Beckmann, who at the age of 17 came to Red Wing with the

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In the second half of the 19th century the first settlers came to the small town of Red Wing, which was named after a fearless and resistant great chieftain of the Dakota Sioux Indians by trappers.

The early inhabitants grew wheat, erected smaller mills and handicraft businesses, similar to those in New England, where many of them came from.

Immigrants from Germany, Ireland and Sweden brought the first industries to Red Wing and specialised in the production of agricultural machines, bricks, barrels, boots, furniture, leather and shoes.

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dream of a new world and found a job in the local leather factory. He became interested in shoes and their manufacturing and opened his own shoe shop in 1883. “I want to sell the real good shoes,” he was known as always saying, and the legend goes that he was so committed that he sometimes stubbornly refused to sell shoes, when there were none that fit the customer’s feet precisely. His passion eventually proved to be so big that he decided to make his own, which were to be better than those sold in his shop. In 1905 he founded the Red Wing Shoe Company and built his first factory. There was a lot of work in front of him, but thanks to his unstoppable will power he managed to make his vision come

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true. Unfortunately Beckmann did not witness the big break of his own company in 1912, as he passed away the year before.

On the brink of success Red Wing launched the Brown Chief series with extremely durable and easy to wear shoes made of thick leather, such as their working boots that had to withstand the farms and hard labour. The great chieftain Hazen Wakute Red Wing who was the leader of the Dakota Sioux at the time, was featured in an advertisement for the “Brown Chief”, spreading the name of the brand with the claim “ends shoe troubles” all over the USA. In the 1930’s Red Wing used gro-cord

Some of the first motorcycle policemen in Minneapolis, H. Larson, MN Historical Society

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soles made of resin for their work boots, which was groundbreaking at this time. Until World War II Red Wing was making a wide variety of footwear for men, women and children suitable for outdoor labour. Since then many work boot masterpieces were created based on the reputation of the toughly manufactured shoes by Red Wing.

were all created for men engaging in hard manual labour. Details of that time such as the two straps for a better hold and the non slip cord sole, that firmly grips the floor when wet with oil or water, have been kept that way until now.

In the 1950’s the engineer boots were also constructed with the legendary “Traction-Tread Sole”, the distinctive white rubber sole which gives a better cushion and make the boots easier to wear.

They were reintroduced in the year 2006 and are still one of the best sellers in Europe today. Most of the models are made in the “Goodyear welt construction” manner, which requires great effort but guarantees supreme durability and foot comfort.

This method combines the upper boot with bottom outsole using a welt. It is stitched to the upper and

The toughest style among the boots representing Red Wing at present, is the Engineer boot with the product number “2268”. It appeared in the company catalogue in 1938 and the basic design has been left unchanged since then. It used to be the safety boot for people engaging in dangerous labour, such as railroad engineering work or that at the mechanical factories. The black chrome leather with its high abrasion, heat and fire resistance,

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through the inner sole, then stitched again to the outsole, locking the entire boot together and forming a narrow leather band surrounding the outside of the shoe.

The most significant styles by Red Wing are the classic work boots with the white soles available in different shapes and height. The moccasin toe styles named “877” and “875” were introduced in the early 1950’s, and originally made as hunting boots. The “Traction-Tread Sole” is best for hunting because it does not make the sound of footsteps and its cushioning guarantees a soft feel for the wearer, without being affected by the condition of road surface. Both edges of the tongue are sewn to the upper creating a gusset that prevents sand, pebbles and water from entering into them. Due to the good feeling of wearing and robustness the shoes are worn not only for hunting and work, but also for the everyday.

For example, the basic style with the round toe, the “Low Weight Chukka” with leather lining or the “Lineman Boots” which adjust more to the foot than any other model. Each style is available in three or four colours and in a different leather and finish.

The range contains ten kinds of leather, which Red Wing produces in its own tannery. The steer hide leather is used for the Red Wing work boots, which is thicker and more durable leather, than the kip and calf. “Oro Russet” is the name of one of the most unmistakable colours in the line. This kind of leather was first used for the “Hunting Boots”. The flexible oiled leather and the name of “Irish Setter” describe the colouring of the leather that resembles the hunting dog. This unique material, that increases in style the longer it is worn, is one of the biggest attractions of the boots.

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The tanning factory that manufactures all the different leathers have worked with Red Wing over the last 100 years and became their affiliate about 30 years ago. It is the same factory where Charles Beckmann the passionate founder of Red Wing had been working, before he opened his shop. This passion for shoe making is still alive within the company, in the form of the quest for quality without compromise. At present, there is no other manufacturer with Red Wing’s size that have their main production base in the USA itself. They have three factories in the US with 1,700 employees altogether, and a management that keeps their somewhat stubborn attitude of “Made in USA” and “Hand Made” as a long term focus.

There are only a few other brands, which stand for the American dream as Red Wing does. Many loyal fans in Asia, the USA and Europe wear and collect these authentic and durable shoes with dedication and out of conviction, so rendering homage to a piece of American industry culture: the shoes America was built in.

----------------------------------------------------www.redwingshoes.com ----------------------------------------------------RED WING

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Gentleman’s footwear ›› alden ‹‹ ››› Massachusetts: Founding state of the USA and until today the conservation site of the all-American cultural cornerstone such as Harvard University, the Kennedys, prep schools or tea parties. From here stems a family owned company that has carried the seal of approval of New England for over 130 years - American quality, based on good old British tradition. ‹‹‹

Everything began in 1844, when Charles H. Alden started the business in Middleborough, Massachusetts. The production of footwear was not an easy craft back then. It especially took time to achieve good results. Early New England shoemaking was a trade based upon one craftsman making a pair per day in one-room cottages, called “ten footers”.

However, the industrial revolution was not to be

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The development of the “Alden Shoe Company” is closely tied in with the history of the East Coast region. Tradition plays a large part, and not just for this reason does the company produce in New England up until today.

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stopped and the production had rapidly grown by the middle of the 19th century. New machinery did not only increase the quantities: It also simplified the abidance of certain standards and allowed for a higher quality of all products as a result. During this time Charles Alden’s factory also prospered and expanded, even adding children’s footwear to their offering of shoes and custom boots.

By 1933, at Charles Alden’s retirement, operations moved to Brockton, Massachusetts and joined with the “Old Colony Factory”. Naturally, the Great Depression had taken a severe toll on the countless shoe companies in New England. Yet, the business

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situation did not become easier after the end of World War II. The growing population called for quantity instead of quality: Especially with every day objects such as shoes the demand rose quickly so that most manufacturers started to specialize in materials that were fast to produce, in order to answer to the growing want for low cost products.

Yet Alden relied on high quality dress shoes, even excelling in special designs such as orthopaedic and medical footwear.

quality today. One of their trade mark’s is the distinct processing, which joins the frame, the sole and the composition. The idea of such an adjoining part developed out of a historical necessity. Due to the fact that footwear was still a luxury a hundred years ago, it was only possible for some to buy new models regularly. Alternatively a new sole was sewn onto the leather upper, as soon as the old one was tread through. Naturally, the regular periodical stitching did not do much good to the leather.

The invention of the welt evaded this problem. That Alden places a great importance on the construction of the shoe frame was never and is not now an advantage for one’s wallet. The strength of a welt

The success was a privilege for the company and the premium leather shoes from the house “Alden of New England” still represent good style and high

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construction is also superior in maintaining the proper balancing and support of the foot. You can feel that improvement up the backs of your legs and in your lower back. In combination with the excellent fit and support of Alden’s lasts, the Goodyear welt construction is far superior to any other shoemaking method for long term wear and comfort. For the covers of a pair Alden uses the finest shell cordovan leather, which is vegetable tanned and hand finished after the centuries-old method.

The single tannery still produces genuine shell cordovan today and is indeed practising a rare art. The tanning process takes a full six months to complete and produces leather that is soft, supple, and very durable. This way, Alden’s classic patterns take on a unique character.

Whether the slippers, fine Dress Oxfords or the comfortable Flex Welts, Alden offers models with the highest requirements for every occasion. Customers around the world value the high quality. No wonder then that the “Alden Shoe Company” is one of the few shoemaker businesses that still resides in its birthplace New England. Having remained a family owned business, carrying forward a tradition of quality genuine-welted shoemaking throughout that is exceptional in every way. The result of this being shoes that look like made to measure and at the same time offer the wearing comfort of modern times. Tradition, improved everyday.

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The off beat casual ›› Clarks Originals ‹‹ ››› The legendary Desert Boot was the first shoe model from the Clarks Originals line. Quite nearly the shoe and with it the line almost never came to be. In 1949 Nathan Clark the great grandson of one of the founding brothers of Clarks, presented his idea of a creped sole rough suede boot like the ones the officers from the British Eight Army in Burma were wearing, which they had bought at a bazaar in Cairo. ‹‹‹

“The ‘Desert Boot’ is certainly one of the most versatile men’s footwear styles available,” wrote Josh

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The idea and the first sample were not of great appeal to the family Clark. Yet this did not discourage Nathan, who at the time was responsible for overseas development at Clarks. In 1950 he presented the “Desert Boot” at the Chicago Shoe Fair to industry professionals and received great interest. An editor of Esquire magazine wrote an article about the shoe afterwards, and promptly its sales figures rose. As a result of this the shoes were later sold in Europe. In France, shoes that resembled the style of the boot were “Les Clarks”.

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Sims in an article for the “Financial Times”. And so it is not remarkable that today almost 60 years on from the launch of the Clarks “Desert Boot”, numerous reinterpretations of a variation of the tropical army boot can be found in the shoe collections of “Gucci” and “Prada” to “Martin Margiela” to “Marc Jacobs” and “John Varvatos”.

In the 1960’s the “Desert Boot” got company.

Clarks innovated the breakthrough process of directly vulcanising rubber soles onto leather uppers and Lance Clark designed the “Wallabee” model, a moccasin built on a nature-formed last. The shoe with the raised forefront seam and the soft crepe

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sole is today a modern and at the same time undated classic, comparable with the legendary lounge chair with ottoman by Ray & Charles Eames. And so the shoes made of the finest antique, smooth and velour leather presented themselves in their pure and pristine state. “Clarks Originals are a genuine British institution. And an institution must not be tampered with,” explains Originals Range Manager Sebastian Edwards.

The half-high variant of the “Wallabee” from the Originals line is one of the most well-known and popular “Chukka Boots” of all time. Time and again, the “Desert Boot”, the ankle-high “Wallabee Boot”,

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as well as the flat “Wallabee” version were adapted by various youth movements for their look. The Mods were the first in the 1960’s and 1970’s, before the Hip Hop crews of the late 1980’s rediscov-

proud to be able to say, that more and more people

ered the style for themselves.

the globe. The company was founded in 1825 by the brothers Cyrus and James Clark in the village Street, very near the town Glastonbury in the South Western county of Somerset. Since its foundation over 180 years ago Clarks has stood for innovation, seminal designs and excellent quality, and has been able to develop into the largest shoe brand for street shoes in the world.

Today Clarks are sold in over 150 countries around

Eventually the Clarks Originals established themselves again during the Brit Pop boom in the mid nineties and still today serve a great many protagonists of the electronic and Indie Rock music scene as a welcome alternative to sporty trainers.

The significant thing is that the traditional British shoe manufacturer never really strove to have a specific impact on these developments or to direct its marketing activities towards such trends. This is probably also a reason why the succinct “Wallabee ” and “Desert Boot” models equally became an all time favourite for businessmen as well as academics, artists and students. A very poignant quote referring to this stems from Nathan Clark

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himself, the great grandson of the founder of the company, who once said: “We love shoes and are

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around the world are choosing Clarks.”

Do it yourself ›› Shoo ‹‹ ››› The retailer Tommy Rasmussen was searching for shoes, which answered his idea of a high quality, sportive and fashionably reserved shoe for women and men. But to no avail. Without further ado he decided to produce them himself to sell in his own store. For Autumn/Winter 2008/09 he delivered an entire collection of his own footwear label Shoo. ‹‹‹

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For 18 years now Tommy Rasmussen has been a successful retailer in Denmark. In his 400 squaremeters sized multibrand store “ei’kon” in Århus he sells primarily high end denim and designer brands.

During this time he helped to build up many brands and labels in Denmark and to establish them on the market. Unfortunately, he says, he has often been disappointed by failed distribution strategies of brands or the last minute ways of thinking and working of some agents. “That was the reason why I started with the Shoo project. A colleague of mine asked me one day ‘why don’t you make your own shoes?’ and invited me to visit some factories.

That was the beginning of my first small collection,

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which was only sold in my own store,” Tommy Rasmussen explains.

And because he knew exactly what his customers were looking for, the footwear sold very well.

Promptly befriended retailers of his wanted to take on Tommy’s shoes into their range. “The whole idea about my product is to make a really basic main line for men and women as well as a sports and casual line. Many shoebrands are selling their products at such a high price, when the quality is not on a par with the what it is retailed at. I’m trying to do it in a different way. To build quality has always matched the refined Shoo aesthetic. The designs

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have already carved out a niche in Scandinavia and are set to emerge into the pan-continental market.

Produced and handcrafted with tradition in Europe, our range is exclusive while managing to maintain a very well formed foot on the ground,” says Tommy. He is being supported in this by his art director James Greenhow from London and the artist Sergie Sviatchenco. Even now the shoes are primarily being produced in Portugal and Italy, and distributed in the US, Canada and Europe.

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The Australian all terrain boot ›› Blundstone ‹‹ ››› Whether it be during a Sunday stroll, in full working mode on a building site or on the way through the urban jungle of a big city, the Chelsea boots from Blundstone render themselves as a multifunctional and long-lasting everyday companion anywhere and everywhere. ‹‹‹

The classic Chelsea boots with the round toe shape have only changed slightly over the decades. The choice of materials and finishing on the other hand were permanently optimised. The shoes made from premium tanned leather featuring the distinctive side stitching are by now available in almost every size for all the family. The particular thing about these robust and comfortable boots is the compar-

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Since 1870 the boots originally thought of as workwear, have been produced in Hobart, Tasmania. After 138 years the company is still family owned and is run by the descendants of the founders James Cuthbertson II and John Blundstone.

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atively low weight. After sometime the soft upper material adapts to the shape of the wearers foot and gives the impression that the shoe has been made to measure. A crucial factor for the comfortable feeling of wearing is the elaborately developed EVA footbed with a soft polyurethane micro cell midsole, which gently caresses the foot from below.

For a massage of the ball of the foot whilst walking, the “Dual Density” shock absorption system, which is incorporated into the heel, lets your feet bounce back all day long. The tough polyurethane outsole is heat-proof up to 140 degrees, acid and oil resistant, slip-proof, breathable and water-resistant.

Every shoe is equipped with two legendary loops,

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to be used in the typical Aussie way of wearing: “Pull ‘em on and chuck ‘em off”. In the year 1979 Blundstone became the first Australian footwear manufacturer to receive a Design Award from the Industrial Design Council of Australia. The Blundstone Group places a great amount of value on the abidance of environmental and social standards and they encourage their suppliers to do likewise.

Apart from the use of recycled and recyclable materials this encompasses the reduced use of raw materials, chemicals and fossil fuels.

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Individuality beyond trends ›› n.d.c. made by hand ‹‹ ››› The name n.d.c. stands for nom de code, which means code name and reflects the philosophy of the two founders, which is that the most important part of the Belgian brand n.d.c. made by hand is the product itself. The range offers classic shoes and accessorises all hand-made from luxurious materials with an individualist twist in an understated and elegant look. ‹‹‹

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The brand n.d.c. was founded in 2001 by the two friends Arnaud Zannier and Enrique Corbi, who both worked for more than a decade in the footwear business previously. With the launch of their own label they realised their dream of creating shoe collections with their own indelible stamp.

Enrique Corbi, the designer explains: “Our collections are appealing to a wide range of customers: trendsetters, classic dressers, luxury lovers and quality freaks who are in pursuit of understated individualism.” The key factors in every n.d.c. collection are simplicity, quality, originality and constructional know-how. The shoes are artisan hand-crafted in Portugal and Spain with selected

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premium leather from Europe’s best tanneries. The duo have shunned away from marketing and advertising their footwear in huge campaigns, preferring to let the product speak for itself. Arnaud Zannier, who also takes care of the production describes the philosophy behind n.d.c.: “We are passionate about shoes and try to work with a wide variety of traditional constructions, materials and finishing techniques every season. We see our products as ‘works of art’.”

The elaborately manufactured shoe collection is subdivided into four lines for women and men. For women there are a range of extravagant high heels

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The men’s collection also encompasses a multitude of versions made of soft washed leather in classic and timeless designs. The scope of the silhouettes and materials reaches as far as the pointed Derby models made of soft suede or shiny calf skins to 1950’s style high worker lace-up boots featuring a chunky rubber tread sole. Further, the range extends from heavy used pull motorcycle boots to comfortable half-boots with a side zipper in a subtle vintage design. A considerable amount of value is set on the finishing process of n.d.c shoes. Thus for some of the models washed leather is used. In order to end up with a really authentic and individual look, at the end the finished sewn shoes undergo a specific process of washing. This method guarantees an unmistakable “worn in” look.

est leather and men’s briefcases, small travel bags and weekenders, wallets and credit card holders in discreet shades of brown are available. Next to a line of their own socks, which was launched recently, Arnaud and Enrique have also released several special editions, such as a collaboration with the French knife manufacturer Forge de Lagiuole, whose folding pocket knives are known for their premium wooden and horn handles and their hand forged blades. For the first time in the history of the traditional company a handle made of leather was included through the collaboration with n.d.c.

Appropriately fitting with the theme of the two: “We produce timeless classics that out-live trends or fashions.”

A few seasons ago the product portfolio of n.d.c was extended with a range of accessories. Since then hand or sling bags for women made of the fin-

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and feminine stilettos made of plant based tanned calf leather and patent leathers in exotic python, crocodile and iguana appearance, a line with just classic men’s shoe silhouettes, which have been modified onto feminine lasts. This range of masculine ladies shoes contains models such as traditionally constructed heavy leather Oxford shoes, tassel-loafers and Chelsea boots in the colours black, dark brown, cognac and London-sky grey.

The women’s range carries a line with lace up, zip and pull on slouchy boots in heavy oiled calf leather and rough brushed reverse leathers, as well as a selection of elegant ballerinas, comfortable Mary Jane‘s and ankle boots made of soft washed calf leather or brushed suede, with mid-high heels in black and brown.

constant classics ›› tricker’s ‹‹ ››› The classic British look has celebrated a comeback of late, its winners being checks, trenches, fine polo shirts and perfectly fitted shirts. And what complements the clean cut look? A pair of shoes from the traditional manufacturer Tricker’s, who has stood firm as a rock for two centuries. ‹‹‹

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Two hundred years ago women had to squeeze themselves into tight corsets and the gentleman wore long trousers for the first time. Especially in England a new, stylised defining culture emerged, who prided themselves in dressing immaculately: the Dandy’s. Around the same time in 1829 Joseph Tricker founded the company “R.E. Tricker Ltd.” in Northampton, the heart of English shoemaking.

Five generations later a great deal has occurred in the fashion industry, but his family still continue to apply the same traditional crafts and skills in the production of the world-renowned Tricker’s shoes.

Since the very beginning Tricker’s have encompassed what British fashion stands for: consist-

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ency and tradition. Apart from featuring all the classics of men’s shoes the collection also offers hand-sewn boots. With their company policy and their mixture of hand-made and bench-made, they reach surprisingly varied plies of customers. Even today Tricker’s is making boots for the cavalry officers of the regiments of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. They carry the Royal Warrant “By Appointment to His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales Shoe Manufacturers” and even Prince Harry’s regiment wears them.

However, he is not alone - by offering a wide range of footwear including the famous handmade be-

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spoke service and a comprehensive selection of classic styles for immediate wear, Tricker’s is also making shoes for a couple of European celebrities from Milan to Copenhagen.

Tricker’s captivate through their elegance, which is made up of omittance and the reflection of what is essential. A superb individual and informed look either for boot cut jeans, slim fitting suits or to create the perfect new age gent.

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Dance your own Steps ›› Bloch ‹‹ ››› Ballerinas are a constant trend hit. That a girl’s dream can quickly turn into a nightmare, is known by every woman who has ever worn an ill fitting shoe and ended up slipping in it. Therefore it is always the best to trust the professionals - the traditional house of Bloch, which has helped dancers “pointe” to the top since 1932. ‹‹‹

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The Russian Jacob Bloch loved ballett. In his new home Australia he observed dancers and realised something: even though showing a professional smile whilst performing, this often turned to a grimace of pain when practising. The trained shoemaker wanted to help. For weeks on end he modelled obsessively on the perfect pointe shoe, and his mission was eventually showered with praise.

Professional dancers such as Tamara Toumanova or David Lichine were enthusiastic about his creations, and even the world famous “Ballet Russe” quickly became part of his client base. Over the decades Bloch advanced to the number one position amongst the dance attire suppliers.

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Today Jacob Bloch’s family continues to listen to dancers. “We work with professionals” says David Wilkenfeld, Jacob’s grandson, who is Managing Director of Bloch International. “The most important part of the design phase is combining both function and aesthetic to meet the dancers needs.” In addition to shoes, Bloch makes a comprehensive range of dance apparel and accessories designed specifically for dancers. Tutus, stockings, leotards, in short everything the heart of a dancer could want for, is by now part of the range. “Working with the dancers is an essential part of designing garments that will perform well, enhance movement and feel comfortable,” Wilkenfeld adds. “Our great-

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est pleasure is when dancers tell us they love our products.” Even when the dancers express their wishes and suggestions, Bloch lends an open ear.

Inspired by fashion trends more and more professionals began asking for a casual ballerina at the beginning of the millennium, one that was more comfortable than the dance shoe but at the same time more stylish. Within the company an answer was eagerly and meticulously worked at, until in 2006 the Bloch fashion line was launched.

For the position of designer the ambitious, young Australian talent Jozette Hazzouri was enlisted.

“Creation is my life, pressure is my adrenalin and fashion my drug,” she states. Obsessed with experimenting, her work is about perfection, fantasy and possibility, all within the confines of wearability.

For Bloch she creates masterpieces, which amalgamate the know how of the brand with a current zeitgeist. Each pair of ballerinas has a padded arch

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support and an enhancement inside the shoe. The result: walking is softer, and the shoe more comfortable. Furthermore the plimsolls are equipped with velour leather, which prevents perspiration.

Also no compromises are made during the production process: the leather for all shoes is specially imported from Italy to the companies owned production facility. If that does not give you reason enough to engage in pirouetting, then it will certainly be the engulfing designs: Budapest-pattern, gathering, metallic appearance, lace trimmings or velvet applications – Bloch proves once again that the only problem women should face is essentially

the limitations of their shoe cabinet. Not surprisingly then that fashionable celebrities take a fancy to the chic little slip-ons. For instance the two tone black and white patent ballerina is the declared favourite of VIP’s such as Sienna Miller, Nicky Hilton or Kate Moss.

Even amongst ladies who tend to favour higher shoes, Bloch thinks of dance when taking its inspiration for high heels and wedges. Alongside trendy tango slingpumps the borrowings are found in Latin dance. The repertoire reaches from wedges with separated heels to classic pumps, for colder Au-

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tumn weather there are ankle boots and half boots, and cute jazz shoes round off the palette.

under their belt Bloch can pleasure themselves on the positive response they have had so far, and the brand is already represented in eleven countries.

Ready for any Pas-de-deux!

And because it is known that every young girl dreams of floating across a great stage in pointed shoes and a pink tutu, the little ones are not forgotten. With “Baby Bloch” a line featuring miniature versions of the grown up range has been on its way this year, which does not only animate mothers to screeches of enticement. Especially adorable is a picturesque pair “Alice in Wonderland” - tiny shoes of red patent leather in elaborate packaging for babys up to 18 months. In the summer of 2009 “Bloch Girl” fills the gap for the older ones by presenting models for six to twelve year olds. It is a sure thing that the fanbase will grow. With just two seasons

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Feel-good-hip ›› Rubber Duck ‹‹ ››› Sneakers have become a global hipster phenomenon. From New York to Melbourne, Paris to Tokyo, there is no trend consuming without sneakers. But what does one do when it‘s snowing? Feet get cold and shoes get ruined.

It is not the right occasion for wearing your fancy Italian pair, and boots are no use in a club. The solution for this styling dilemma now comes from Denmark! ‹‹‹

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Moonboots! One of the few style icons, which have accompanied one on Ski trips since the earliest days of childhood. No matter if six or twenty six years old, the brightly coloured, striking “big feet” have always been subconsciously anchored as “wants”. The fact that they belonged to those things that from early on were only for adults such as alcohol, cars and other toys, and one was not allowed to have, also added to this. Even after your parent’s advice that the boots are only for snow and not for asphalt. The discreet advice that the boots were also abused as shopping boots by just about every older lady from Courchevel to Cortina d’Ampezzo, did not help either. When arriving at

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adulthood there are suddenly other problems that one has to deal with. Step by step one has built up their own shoe collection and is seemingly prepared for all adversities and eventualities. Suddenly winter comes with a bang and one realises that classic moonboots are not that chic after all.

The Dane Eik Braun Ottosen had the same problem and helped himself: he created the snowjogger – a shoe that had the comfort and cool attitude of a sneaker, combined with the robustness of a moonboot. For Ottosen this is not the first strike of genius. At the beginning of his career the designer already proved a grasp for small details and

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the spoilt gusto of the consumer. When he found a pair of espadrilles (colloquially referred to as “espandrillos”) in the closet of his then girlfriend, he came up with the idea of creating his own design.

And so a customised design object was made out of the ever popular hemp fibre sole with a cotton upper part that can be bought at every kiosk in the Mediterranean. The message that it was okay to wear very relaxed shoes without being a slacker travelled all the way to Southern California. The shoes from Copenhagen quickly became a hit in Hollywood. In this respect it was only consistent that Ottosen assigned his idea to other models and to the cold seasons.

By now the Snowjogger can be admired on the beautiful legs of starlets such as Liv Tyler or Jessica Alba. The fact that the hinterland of Los Angeles is more or less weather resistant, points to the decisive attribute of the shoes. Similarly to the original Italian moonboots the Danish grandson is not as interested in necessity but rather in a subjective sensibility. Snowjoggers look good and are comfortable!

Thanks to back velcro fasteners they are fast and easy to take on and off. The narrowly cut rubber sole in the jogging shoe style provides well-being on the one hand and on the other the Snowjogger

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comes across as sportier than any other winter resistant shoe. A reinforced rear panel adds to its support. The colours that have been chosen are relatively dirt resistant but still everything but boring. Ultimately the choice of high quality materials guarantees what the Snowjoggers name promises.

These shoes combine components, which rarely understand each other well, especially when it comes to fashion: functionality and feeling, comfort and style suddenly work together.

The wearer proves that Rubber Duck gives a dis-

service: rationality and feeling – at least when buying the shoe – no more contradictions, the discussions with one’s own conscience come to an end.

Less trend stress means more sleep this summer, one can look forward to the colder months relaxed and in a good mood: Bring on winter!

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The Royal Wellie Warrant ›› Hunter ‹‹ ››› When Arthur Wellesley, the first Duke of Wellington, assigned his shoemaker with making a pair of comfortable boots, little did he know that as a result his name would become a synonym for rubber rain boots. The British company Hunter has hand produced its Wellington boots – affectionately called Wellies - for over 150 years in Edinburgh the capital of Scotland. ‹‹‹

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As with the finishing of leather boots, for Hunter custom-tailored pieces made of natural rubber are worked around one strip. The boot sleeve is then strengthened in a secret latex-immersion. Subsequently the body is vulcanised in the oven. The two-ply sole of the Wellies feature a tread corrugation in different angles, which guarantees slip proofness. It is additionally strengthened in the instep and a nylon lining and padded insole provide the corresponding comfort of wearing. If required the width can be regulated through the shaft in the upper area through the signature Hunter buckle.

The model Green Hunter is today described as the unmistakable original and the symbol of British

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country life, the first orthopaedic boots to be produced by the company in the year 1955. At the end of the 1970’s Hunter is appointed the Royal Warrant from HRH The Duke of Edinburgh. In 1981 a pair of Hunter Originals is worn by Lady Diana Spencer in her engagement photographs, sparking a fashion spurge and in 1986 Hunter is awarded a warrant from HM The Queen.

Today the traditionally knee-high boot suits Wellie wearers all over the world - from the Royal Family to festival-goers, working farmers and landed gentry alike. The collection is divided into several lines to fulfil everyone’s needs for wet weather in terms

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of surface, form and colour for men, women and of course also kids.

And because water has alwasy been an elementary constituent for Hunter, the brand launched a new charity partnership with Water Aid, a relief organisation fighting poverty through the provision of clean drinking water - at the last Glastonbury Music Festival.

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Aussie Attitude ›› warmbat ‹‹ ››› Australia’s footwear generally has an excellent reputation concerning quality and workmanship. Designed to resist against any kind of natural challenge in the Outback, boots from down under are in demand for their durability and excellent materials. An epitome of Aussie shoe handcraft is the brand Warmbat, which has been manufacturing sheepskin boots since 1969. ‹‹‹

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Although their logo features a neat little wombat, Warmbat uses nothing but 100 percent Australian Merino sheepskin for the uppers of their boots. One might wonder, why such warm boots in such a hot country, but in fact sheepskin is a proof that nature is probably the best engineer: It is naturally thermostatic and keeps feet warm in winter and cool in summer. The organic wool’s fibres are hollow and so they absorb up to 30 percent of their own weight in moisture and the humidity in the shoe and keep your feet perfectly dry. And you probably know how warm they are in winter. This organic material is very light, keeps its shape, is wind-proof, flameand water resistant and extremely durable.

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But it’s not just the material that makes Warmbat’s footwear so outstanding, it’s also the unique and perfectly fitting design. “Feet first” is their credo, because “any other apparel item can make concessions to style, but in shoes if the fit isn’t right your feet will know it.” So a cosy fit and a comfortable feeling is the first priority of every boot, slipper, casual or sandal.

Warmbat’s footwear styles are as unique as their comfort, subtle, elegant, traditional and contemporary colours, accented by a braid of authentic Australian Aboriginal artwork and embroidered with their distinctive Warmbat wombat logo.

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The brand’s products have for a long time only been available in Australia, but meanwhile people all around the world can derive benefit from the legendary comfort styles that delighted Aussies‘ feet for decades.

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Fixed star on your foot ›› Converse ‹‹ ››› Originally designed for basketball in 1917 the canvas shoe with the star and the simple rubber sole quickly left its home at the court to become an omnipresent lifestyle object. About a cultural phenomenon... ‹‹‹

Founded by Marquis Converse in Massachusetts in 1908 the “Converse Rubber Shoe Company” will most likely forever stay connected with its famous model and has already written fashion history. Whilst other styles have been struggling with

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Carine Roitfeld, Editor in Chief of French Vogue, looked especially “brilliant” in her front row position during last summer’s shows in Milan and Paris.

Instead of her signature feature – the “angry” high heels – the style institution presented a golden Chuck Taylor All Star – a styling statement that once again underlined the meaning of the probably best-known shoe model of all time.

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trend waves, it always found its niche; and often quite a spacious one. Even though the one billionth Chuck will be sold this year and despite the fact that Nike took over the company in 2003, it surprisingly never depraved to a mainstream item.

Whether it is punks, skaters, ravers, fashionistas, rockers or Mister average – the Chuck was and is cult for any type of youth culture – the Coca Cola of sneakers!

Not long ago, the monthly magazine “Smithsonian” of the museum of the same name recognised the famous Converse shoe as a piece of Americana, of the US cultural heritage, if you will. How ancestral-

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ly American Converse is, was already proven at an earlier stage: during the Second World War, when the magazine “Converse/ations” was brought to life. Through the magazine GI’s who had worked for Converse before the war, were able to stay in close and intensive contact with their family members and former colleagues.

In the 1950’s James Dean and Elvis created an aura of rebellion as the first prominent supporters of the shoe, a stamp the Chuck has kept until today.

“They have always been a little different – simply because they were black and bold,” explains Gene Sculatti, author of the book “The Catalog of Cool - the popularity of Converse sneakers“. Perhaps it is their resolute simplicity, which makes them so attractive, the fact that they are so unadorned and unpretentious.” In a world that is ever changing – and overburdens some people at times – Converse are not just a constant, but also proof that less is sometimes more.

Always relatively cheap in price the “canvas” also functioned as a projection screen for individual interpretations. The flower-power-kids decorated it with peace signs and stuck flowers in the lacing eyes, members of the punk movement covered them with anarchy symbols and patched and taped them till they finally met their maker.

Though initially started as a company for basketball shoes, they were quickly discovered by surfers and skaters – both sports which stand for an

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alternative lifestyle. By hard boys with scratches on their tattooed arms, who also added to the image of the brand for outsiders, demure rebels and maladjusted free spirits. Johnny Knoxville the exstuntman skater who became world famous with his MTV Show “Jackass”, is something like the prototype of this subculture – and has of course long since had his own Converse All Star model with the all-telling Jackass logo, consisting of a skull and two crossed crutches.

Incidentally Converse already started customising in the 1980’s, long before most other brands recognised the demand for personalisation and made it a line of business. The right look for every foot!

The typical silhouette – whether the flat Oxford version or as a high top – always stayed untouched Converse

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whilst the variety of colours and materials seems limitless. Denim-, camouflage- and patchworkappearances were launched and felt, leather and fleece made the shoe suitable for the winter. Since 2005 Converse aficionados have even been able to become designers themselves and choose their favourite colour combinations by using the Internet tool “design your own”. Even hard-boiled fashion addicts will find their number one Chuck in the brand’s several premium ranges. Recent collaborations have been with Japanese star designer Junya Watanabe, as well as the American John Varvatos who has created high-class fashion styles for the sportswear specialist for the fourth time. Additonally for Spring/Summer 2008 a limited edition Hiroshi Fujiwara Chuck was launched.

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The agility and joy of experimentation is not only good for sales figures of the brand but also for its image. In countless Internet forums and fan homepages discussions are held, from which attributes Asian or former American production facilities can be identified, and which pair is the coolest style. Now and again old stock crop up, which are then dealt at high prices. The high point of the fanbase and the true encyclopaedia to the topic of the Chuck is the website chucksconnection.com.

A newsroom constantly announces current new releases, which musicians are wearing Chucks during their performances and videos, and in which films and TV shows the shoes are seen on-screen.

For the 100th jubilee of the company in 2008, Converse created the image campaign ”Connectivity”,

placing the heroes of the company’s history in the spotlight. Artists such as James Dean, Sid Vicious, Billie Joe Armstrong, Hunter S. Thompson, Dwyane Wade or Joan Jet have been tied together on posters and banners by the Chucks on their feet. In Berlin countless passers-by joined the Connectivity row and were photographed next to the Converse icons. The hype around the campaign was almost impossible to slow down, so much so that the heroes were cut out of advertising panels and now probably adorn private homes. Thus it seems rebellion was and evidently still is an aspect of the Converse every foot’s darling...

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Savoir vivre ›› Bensimon ‹‹ ››› More than 25 years ago the Bensimon brothers Serge and Yves founded the company, whose designs are today a staple part of many women’s wardrobe. Among their fans in the early days were Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin and Sophie Marceau, and today celebrities such as Naomi Watts, Jade Jagger, Cameron Diaz and Natalie Portman as well as HRH Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall are some of their exclusive customers. ‹‹‹

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The concept behind the label evolved out of the Bensimon brother’s grandfather importing American second hand clothing to France after the Second World War. The brothers took this idea further and in 1980 began their line with customised uniforms and work clothes, adding a personal touch of their own. However, it was the “Bensimon tennis shoe”, which really brought the label into the spotlight. The shoe, which was based on a simple American army canvas design with a rubber sole, immediately found a cult following within the fashion community and is still the best seller amongst women of all age groups today. In 1984 the first official Bensimon range was launched, consisting of

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men’s and women’s designs inspired by the military and travel. Featuring colourful, casual yet elegant, glamorous as well as functional safari jackets, jodhpurs and zip-up pullovers, which instantly became a hit. Two years later in 1986 the first “Autour du Monde” Bensimon store was opened in the Marais in Paris, and twenty more have followed up until the present day. The design of the stores always being colourful and contemporary, yet natural, timeless and above all authentic. In 1992 the first “Home - Autour du Monde” concept store was launched, being the first of its kind in Paris, and presenting the combination of decorational items, textile collections, art exhibitions as well as mu-

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sic, perfume and cosmetics altogether in an open space for the first time. In 2006 “La Tennis Bensimon”, the classic shoe available in a vast array of colours and at an affordable price, sold over one million pairs in France alone. In addition the tennis shoe received the highly coveted “shoe of the year” title in France, recognised by a jury of fashion editors, retailers and consumers as the most successful, desirable and iconic shoe of the year.

collection are the limited editions: printed fabrics, ballerinas with crossover bands and ribbons, hole patterns or spikes – nothing is impossible. Bensimon has also been involved in several collaborations with fashion houses such as “Chanel”, “A.P.C”, “Michel Klein”, “Jean Paul Gaultier” and “Cacharel”.

The materials used in the design process of Bensimon’s apparel collection are authentics, elegants and naturals. The Bensimon collection wants to enhance the personality of everyone in offering the possibility to express themselves through endless colourful combinations, where black has no place.

It is aimed at all generations. Furthermore the collections are sewn with transparent thread: a subtle signature that gives them a timeless and contem-

Today it is available at the most prestigious and hip stores in more than thirty countries worldwide.

Some of the shoe designs available from the “Basic collection” for example, encompass models such as a classic lace-up, as well as a ballerina with and without an elastic band. The highlights of every

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porary soul. The founder Serge Bensimon describes his brand as follows: “For me, the creation is a sensitive and eclectic dialogue between art, literature and travel. The Bensimon spirit is open to the world, is simple and authentic and that generates constant emotions. My concept of fashion is not to transform people or to print a brand. I want to give them trust in themselves and enhance their own personality.” Though having been copied over and over, Bensimon still manages to stay unique, even today - when classic becomes luxury.

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The cosmopolitan sneaker ›› Creative Recreation ‹‹ ››› Noticing a void in the footwear market the founders of the brand Creative Recreation have sampled the best aspects of the comfortable athletic sneaker combined with the materialisation of a dress shoe, and created the ultimate crossbreed. ‹‹‹

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“We don’t want to be put into any category, we are a footwear company! We make shoes for our lifestyle, rather we make shoes for life with style,” explain long term friends Robert Nand and Ricardo Confinco, who founded Creative Recreation in the Autumn of 2002 in Orange County, California. Both worked for various sports and skateboard brands prior to this and wanted to create a real alternative to the luxury sneakers of the renowned design houses or the prevalent styles of the big sports shoe brands. “No one was offering footwear to young professionals with style. Being successful in this generation does not require wearing a suit and tie; rather it is just the opposite. This generation is

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more in control of its destiny and its careers. This genre has become known for its entrepreneurial drive,” they explain their idea. Both simply set out to design shoes that they wanted to wear.

“Our goal is to outfit people with a unique blend of colours, style, comfort and exclusivity. We have found that in today’s market you can find all types of independent clothing and accessories collections but everyone has overlooked the hybrid comfort casual sneaker. When starting Creative Recreation we noticed that no one was making shoes for today’s fashion trailblazers. With this in the back of our minds we set out to design a collection

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that we would be proud to have in our own closets and share with the rest of the like minded people around the world,” says Robert and adds: “We aim to help outfit the individual who wants to step out in a clean outfit with shoes to match and feel confident that they will be original without worrying about anyone else rocking the same gear they have on.” They strive to keep Creative Recreation as limited as possible. “We want our clientele to know that when they buy a pair of Creative Recreation‘s the chances of seeing someone else rocking the same shoes are highly unlikely. For each colour and style in our line we only make an average of 90 to 500 pairs worldwide.”

The Fall-Winter 2008 collection for women and men mirrors the influence of the international fashion runways. In the foreground are the patent and metallic looks in navy blue, red, gold or silver. Next to a range of leather models a multitude of shoes in material mixes of mesh, canvas and leather in alligator pattern are available, and there are classic high versions with elaborate velcro fastenings, whose silhouettes can be associated particularly with basketball. When Robert and Confinco sit down together and design a new collection they do not read the latest forecasting books or magazines.

“Rather we look to our world travels and personal everyday experiences for inspirations. We also

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look to our aspirations of living a life of Creative Recreation where every day you have the ability to creatively do something in a recreational form,” the designer Duo says. Creative Recreation is currently selling in Japan, the UK, Australia, Korea, Germany, Finland, Norway, Sweden and Canada. They have kept there US distribution very limited to about 150 of the best boutiques such as Atrium in New York, Fred Segal in LA, as well as some sneaker specialty accounts. Since 2005 there has been an exclusive collection twice per year for the luxury department store in New York. Just recently Nand and Confinco have also designed a special collection for Saks Fifth Avenue. “Our definition of the

brand is characterised by originality and imagination, a refreshment of one’s mind or body through activity that amuses and stimulates play,” the duo explains. The two revolutionaries of the sneaker business have within a small space of time created a real alternative to the products of the large sports article manufacturers and designer labels with their small independent footwear company, and have since then found increasingly more fans of the label all over the world.

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Game, set, match ›› Spring Court ‹‹ ››› In the 1930’s tennis rapidly developed from a favourite pastime of the wealthy to a veritable, profitable business. The Frenchman Georges Grimmeisen was one of the first to incorporate an elaborate air circulation system into his cotton lace-up shoes in 1936. He called his tennis shoes Spring Court and they were raced across the lawns of Wimbledon by tennis legends such as Don Budge. ‹‹‹

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The best players of the period such as René Lacoste or Fred Perry became world famous stars and role models within a short space of time. What the greats of the white sport once wore on the court, turned into a fashion classic over the years. Next to the polo shirt this also encompasses the canvas shoe with the rubber sole. In the 1960’s the shoes were worn by the generation with the will power to rearrange society. As can still be seen today, on the cover of the Beatles’ Abbey Road album, John Lennon is walking in front wearing Spring Court’s.

Some time later he turned up at the altar with Yoko Ono also in Spring Court’s.

Principally in France and England trend setters and

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style icons such as Alain Delon and Roger Moore helped the shoes in reaching cult status. Over the years the kicks have not lost any of their appeal.

The washable inner sole and the distinctive and highly visible holes on the outsole, which provide the feet with ventilation, were far ahead of their time and are today produced almost unchanged.

The shoe’s resurrection is credited to the traditional French house “Rautureau Apple Shoes”. As if Spring Court had always been part of the collective style consciousness and one had only waited for the right moment, it was relaunched in 2001.

Naturally the classic original is no longer merely available in white but in an array of different col-

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ours and prints. And how else should it be, the new versions have already been able to win over new prominent fans such as Kate Moss and Jude Law to name just a few.

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whispering rubber ›› Tretorn ‹‹ ››› Over one hundred years ago Henry Dunker launched the venture Tretorn in Helsingborg. Since then country workers, hunting enthusiasts, tennis cracks and preppy college kids have found their personal show favourites in the collections of the Swedes. In 2001 the company was bought by Puma and the focus is now on style. ‹‹‹

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As with many of the traditional brands, which have undergone fulminant revivals in recent years, Tretorn also began with workwear. The first rain boots, which left their companies at the end of the 19th century could not be considered as especially “chic” by any means. Sturdy, stable and hard-wearing as the shoes were, they initially convinced the Scandinavian soldiers and farmers. Sales agents in Vienna, Budapest and Berlin made sure that over 200,000 pairs of the shoe were sold by 1896 and that the circle of followers continually grew.

In 1902 Tretorn presented the first canvas sports shoe with a rubber sole and began with the production of tennis balls.

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The foundation for positioning itself as a sports and leisure brand was laid.

In a land in which tennis has always been one of the most popular sports and the ruling monarch King Carl Gustav competes in matches twice daily, the direction towards the white sport became a consistent one for Tretorn. In the 1970’s icons such as Björn Borg or Martina Navratilova competed in shoes and with balls of the northern lights, and the international reputation continued to rise. In the 1980’s pop culture rediscovered the understated, timeless look, and Tretorn belonged to this decade just as much as “Benetton” backpacks and “Lacoste” polo shirts.

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Many of the fans of the time have rediscovered the brand for themselves today, in their marketing, design, PR and sales new target groups are constantly developed. In doing so Tretorn does not put their emphasis on loud product placement but rather on the communication of the heritage and know how they have accumulated over the past decades. The sections “Tennis” and “Original” follow the classic look of the brand stringently, and in the line “Gullwing” the rather traditional sneaker and some of the rain boot models receive a contemporary and fresh testimony by Head of Design Tony Bertone.

“I like to describe the Tretorn approach like this: it’s fashion for guys who like to fix things, an outdoor brand with easily wearable pieces and roots in rugged workwear. We are not interested in extreme sports, people should get out, out, out,” demands Bertone resolutely. “Even if it’s just a picnic or a trip to the beer garden.”

During a visit to Japan the American with Italian roots noticed the amount of young, well dressed families. “This babyboom is global, everywhere in the world there are suddenly these modern families with a sophisticated background. They are interested in design, they live a balanced life, take responsibility for their health, eat well. I see Tretorn as a brand for exactly this target group.”

After launching a small apparel line in 2007, since June a women’s capsule collection and prescription glasses have also been part of the portfolio.

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“Tretorn is developing into a full lifestyle brand.

Somehow I imagine that our typical customer is a smart, sophisticated glasses wearer,” laughs Bertone. Among the female customers the rubber boots with their inimitable colour and pattern palette create the majority of the turnover, whereas the men are becoming more and more enthusiastic about the tennis shoe, especially the model T56.

The “Classic Nylite” is currently developing into one of the strongest shoes in the range. “The sneaker is originally from the 1960’s. We have worked on the design for three years, bought old vintage pieces and experimented. Now the look is relevant. It’s a nice, really elegant, minimalist sneaker.” Very Tretorn, indeed - sometimes people listen even more when you whisper…

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TRETORN

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Fundament For Posture ›› PF flyers ‹‹ ››› As the first fitness boom in the US emerged at the beginning of the 1930’s, the tyre manufacturer B.F. Goodrich decided to use his material components for a new purpose. The history of the PF Flyers sport shoes began with the idea of using tyre rubber for producing shoe soles. Last year the label celebrated its 70th anniversary. ‹‹‹

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The label from Boston has been manufacturing shoes since 1937, which have been renowned especially in the USA for their expansion systems and comfortable sole construction. The letters P and F stand for posture foundation, which translates to as much as a fundament for posture. Through a slight enhancement of the inner sole in the middle of the insole, the so-called “rigid PF wedge” Goodrich was able to distribute the weight of the body ideally to the outside of the outer sole in order to reduce the leg strain. And so the brand is considered to be one of the pioneers of integrating orthopedic technology with sport shoes, which today is regarded as standard of any sneaker. The brand PF Flyers

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mirrors a part of American cult history. Numerous football, baseball and basketball stars wore the shoes in the 1940’s and 1950’s and thereby raised the profile of the shoe considerably. Over the years the comfortable, durable and affordable canvas sport shoe established itself into a coveted every day companion for many American youths well into the 1960’s. And not least due to its ever expanding range of new colours and distinct grasp for design. However in 1962 the company B.F. Goodrich gave up the shoe business and sold PF Flyers to the then mother affiliated group of Converse, who continued to carry PF Flyers successfully for many years to come. Due to syndicate concerns of the US

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concept and the collection of PF Flyers was completely rethought. As one of the oldest shoe brands of America the new PF Flyers collection is aimed at individuals who are unimpressed by hightech sneaker hysteria and prefer shoes which are based on historic originality.

Today the range encompasses diverse styles for women and men, as well as a few classic unisex models. The model “Center Hi” is a high top basket-

Department of Justice the mother affiliation sold the brand to different companies later on. By the mid 1980’s the canvas sport shoe celebrated its first big comeback and PF Flyers even created limited edition models in cooperation with the Swiss watch makers Swatch. However further changes in ownerhip left the PF Flyers being forgotten. Enthusiasts stayed true to their PF’s and as a result they slowly but surely established themselves into an insider tip. The label nearly went into the hall of fame of no longer existing sport brands unnoticed.

However in the year 2001 the sport shoe manufacturer New Balance from Boston, bought the trademark rights to PF Flyers with the strong intention of reviving the spirit of the pulsating and historic brand once again. In the foreground stands the well tried company ideology of advancing quality, comfort of wearing and design. In order to combine tradition and modernity with one another, the

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show a certain understatement from the elaborate finishing. The “Number 5” is a subtle allround sneaker with a good stability and surefootedness, whose design inspiration is a take on the sportive success of the brand within the basketball sector.

Thanks to its sophisticated sole construction the casual sneaker possesses almost all the wearer attributes of a modern shoe, as well as undermining sportive and casual looks equally.

As one of the original American sneaker brands PF Flyers has a long tradition to look back on. With the strategy of bringing modern reinterpretations of the PF classic onto the market, PF Flyers reverts back to its valuable heritage and is on the sure path to reclaiming the cult status, which it relished especially in the 1960’s, once more.

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ball boot from the 1930’s. This model is in the seasonally reworked collection, has advanced to evergreen by now, and is easily combined with jeans or shorts. The authentic classic is available in various colour combinations and optionally in premium leather or firm canvas and with a light or dark rubber sole. The obsession with detail of the “Center”, with its rib structure in the toe area of the vulcanised rubber sole, makes this relaunched classic an absolute eye-catcher. Distinctly more filigree are the silhouettes of the PF Flyers newly developed models: “Number 5”. This style assured and shapely interpretation of the full leather shoe with a rubber sole impresses especially through its toe cap adorned with contrast stripes made of rough leather. Also the entire insole is made of leather and so ensures an even more comfortable feeling of wearing. The fastening band is decorated with fine metal eyelets. The subtle side applications as well as the partly three times stitched seams,

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Rugged quality ›› Filson ‹‹ ››› By 1897, the great Klondike gold rush had begun, and thousands of gold-diggers were stampeding into Seattle, headed North. It was in the same year that the 47 year old Clinton C. Filson launched the “Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers”, specialising in goods to outfit the stampeders. ‹‹‹

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Today the brand Filson is best known for its legendary virgin wool Mackinaw jacket and a luggage line made out of oil finished cotton twill. Back in the days the stampeders depended on Filson, not as a matter of choice, but of survival. Filson inherited his father’s pioneer spirit and love of the outdoors.

After he had quit his job as a railroad conductor he moved to Seattle and worked in a small loggers outfitting store for several years, before he started his own business. His strong work ethic and reputation for honesty as well as the close contact with his customers and improving his goods to meet their specific needs, was the main thing that made him so successful. Filson owned a mill and manu-

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factured Mackinaw clothing, blankets and knitted goods. He also sold boots, shoes and sleeping bags designed for the frigid North.

After the gold rush had faded away outdoorsmen still came to Filson for rugged clothes. He soon added clothing for the timber industry, including the Filson Cruiser, the garment that earnt Filson a place in history. Designed, named and patented by C.C. Filson in 1914, the Cruiser jacket has remained Filson’s best selling item. “The goods we quote must not be confounded with the cheap and vastly inferior grade with which the market is over-run.

Such goods are not only useless for the purpose

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for which they are intended, but the person wearing them would be better off without them.” Clinton C. Filson wrote in his catalogue in 1914. Later he also became the supplier of tough, comfortable outdoor clothing for hunters and fishermen, engineers and explorers, mariners and miners. By the 1960’s, Filson’s reputation as the premier outfitter for outdoorsmen had spread around the globe and his products had been stocked by other retailers as well.

travel luggage. Everything is produced in Seattle.

The styles are mostly equipped with a removable and adjustable bridle leather shoulder strap with a shoulder pad, double layer of fabric on the bottom, two-way brass zipper with leather pulls and handles or handgrips out of vegetable tanned bridle leather. The heavy and thick paraffin treated cotton twill is extremely water repellent. Filson products are synonymous with reliability, satisfaction and honest values.

In 1991 the luggage line made of rugged twill and bridle leather was reintroduced. It contains briefcases, laptop, carry-on and field bags as well as

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The distinctive mark of personality ›› gallo ‹‹ ››› The Italian sock manufacturer Gallo has placed emphasis on maximum quality, tradition and innovation for over 80 years. For its sock collection the brand uses exclusively first class materials, which are strictly “doubled” and “twined”: extra fine Merino wool, pure mercerised cotton- as well as very fine cashmere- and silk threads, processing almost 10 km of thread for one pair of men’s socks. ‹‹‹

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“Looking at the foot, in order to express the heart,” is the credo of the brand bearing the emblem of the rooster’s head. However, the real hallmark of Gallo is the characteristically white kettel thread of every sock. This wafer-thin adornment allows for maximum comfort of wearing and replaces the often bothersome seam. The kettel thread locks the tip of the toe with the sole of the sock and thereby avoids unpleasant pressure marks from developing. Almost like a relic the procedure of ketteling by hand is still used today: experts match stitch courses exactly to each other sock for sock, from the tip to the liner. Many of the 70 odd employees are already working in the third generation for the

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company, which has had its headquarters south of the Lake Garda since 1927. And so many of the skilful finishing techniques have virtually been passed on from father to son. Traditional craftsmanship has been combined with industrial innovation for a long time, and so still today next to the Italian weaving machines the historical Bentley looms, which have been in use for over 50 years, are applied for particular manufacturing processes.

The careful selection of raw materials as well as the compliance with unusually strict production standards, enable the finishing of the highest possible 150.000/2 fineness degree, which is crucial

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for the comfort and fit of the socks. Whether made of Egyptian cotton for the day or wafer-thin chiffon for the evening, rhombus- or patterned inlays on ribbed woven materials for sport and leisure, Gallo offers numerous variations of long and short stockings and socks in simple and fashionable colours and patterns. Ultimately socks are not a mundane item of clothing any more, but a distinctive mark of personality.

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The Last Bag – Made in Denmark ›› Piet Breinholm ‹‹ ››› Piet Breinholm’s background could easily be entitled “such is life”. At the beginning of the millennium the drummer of the band “18th Dye” toured through the USA, always carrying with him his battered “old school” briefcase.

No matter whether in a thrift store or a designer boutique, time and again he was asked about it. ‹‹‹

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“It was like a call from above. On the flight back I played around with some Excel files thinking about production volumes and so on. To be honest with you - I had no idea.” Initially he produced in Turkey and then quickly decided on one of the last traditional leather manufacturers from his home in Denmark, who were able to implement the vintage styles designed by him. “I can’t compete with the price, but the quality makes all the difference,” explains the 37 year old. By now Piet has his own shop in Copenhagen and first class, international retailers, who cater to a variety of completely different customers. “It’s funny how varied the bags are interpreted, the skatekids make the strap re-

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ally long and wear them very low, hanging down by their knees, whereas business people combine them more conventionally.”

Piet Breinholm’s declared goal is no less than to create a “classic” and done in the “right” way. “Of course I’ve read Naomi Klein’s “No Logo”. Our logo is elegantly placed in the inside pocket. I consciously chose a Brazilian tannery, which belongs to the five most eco-friendly in the world.”

The father of a six year old girl does not think much of the constant search for the newest “new”, particular of this trade. “I don’t want to come up with twenty to thirty new styles every season because a distributor thinks that it is important. We show

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two to three improvements, variate the models and that needs to be sufficient. I don’t want to participate in this terror, but only launch new styles that have a specific meaning to me.”

The small collection is growing consistently nonetheless. Customised models such as the Python bags, which are being presented in the 14 oz. store for the first time appeal to an exclusive customer, while the Canvas Range, which appears next summer, offers more affordable styles. How much time will be left over for the music career, remains to be seen. Momentarily Piet is in actual fact devoting half of his time to the band. Music was his first love, but thank God it won’t be his last...

acknowledgement

The 14 oz. team would like to express special thanks for the great support to the following Madame & Monsieur Agabeyan, Paris Architekturmuseum der TU, Berlin Atelier A.E.Bidal, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Gerard Backx, Saint-R émy-de-Provence Boy Bastiaens, Maastricht Nadia Benyebka, Berlin Luc Bonnefond, La Tasque Nigel Cabourn, Newcastle Ghislain Antiques, Paris Virginie Glustin, Antiques des Grandes Demeures, Paris

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F.C. Gundlach, Hamburg Radovan Haltuf, Art-Déco Luminaires, Paris Madame Françoise Janssens, Paris Kempische Antieke Bouwmaterialen, Turnhout Ludovic Messager, Quintessence, Paris MN Historical Society, Minneapolis Harm Müller-Spreer, Hamburg Manfred Schmidt, Hofgrün, Berlin Tanja Tawakkoli, Berlin Carsten-Oliver Voss, Berlin

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... as well as all brands and their sales and public relations agencies, also for the provision of image material.

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imprint

Publisher Fourteen Ounce Berlin GmbH Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany Phone: +49 (0)30 400 44 0 Fax: +49 (0)30 400 44 101 www.14oz-berlin.com

store address 14 oz. Berlin Neue Schönhauser Straße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany Phone: +49 (0)30 280 40 514 Opening hours: Mon–Sat 10:00 a.m.–08:00 p.m. www.14oz-berlin.com

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Creative Director Robert Dizdarević Editors Romy Uebel Kay Alexander Plonka

Graphic Designer Tobias Menze Producer Kathleen Hiller Production consultant begeisterte Synapsen GmbH Image processing Bildpunkt Berlin Printing Medialis Offsetdruck GmbH, Berlin Binding Leipziger Kunst- und Verlagsbuchbinderei GmbH

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Translator Fiona Bryson

Disclaimer The contents of this book have been thoroughly considered and verified. However, no guarantee will be assumed. The liability of the publisher for personal-, material- or financial damages is excluded. Court of jurisdiction is Berlin.

Copyright All rights reserved by Fourteen Ounce Berlin GmbH. The copying of information with regard to the use of texts, fragments of texts or image material demands prior written consent from the publisher. Changes to the design or layout of the products shown here are prohibited.

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Print run 4,000 copies / 1st circulation, July 2008 Cover material red linen Brillianta from Gebr. Schabert Paper printed on 120 g/m2 LeseboDesign natural with 1,3 vol. from Geese Papier, Hamburg

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