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l.o .c.k. Labels of common Kin BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN winter 2012
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winter 2012 ---------------
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PUBLISHER BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany EDITORIAL OFFICE BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG Corporate Publishing Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany Tel. +49 (0)30 400 44 0 Fax +49 (0)30 400 44 101 www.breadandbutter.com DISCLAIMER The L.O.C.K. Book is published by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions in which the author or company is named, do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Place of jurisdiction is Berlin, Germany. COPYRIGHT All rights reserved by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG. The copying of graphic design or information with regard to the use of texts fragments of texts or image material demands prior written consent from the publisher. Images & Logotypes Delivered by and property of the respective L.O.C.K. brands.
MANAGING EDITOR Jenny Boers CREATIVE DIRECTION Robert Dizdarevi´ c Graphic Design & IMAGE EDITING Anja Decker ADVERTISING Jenny Boers Alex Kernlinger PRODUCTION Kathleen Hiller PRINTING Druckhaus Schöneweide GmbH Ballinstraße 15 12359 Berlin, Germany CIRCULATION 4.000 copies
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CONTENT --------------WELCOME by Alex Kernlinger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08 special features Nigel Cabourn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 The Heritage Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Blauer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Dukes Finest Artisan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
L.O.C.K. - Labels of Common Kin Winter 2012 Brands: AG Adriano Goldschmied Jeans. . . . . . . . . . . 26 Aigle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Armor Lux. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Bailey of Hollywood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Barbour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Blauer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 B.D. Baggies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Bleu de Chauffe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Blue de Gênes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Brooklyn Motors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Buttero. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Canada Goose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Carhartt Work in Progress . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic. . 52 Clip & Rope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Danner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Dehen 1920. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Denham the jeanmaker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Dr. Martens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Driza-Bone. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Dukes Finest Artisan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Dunderdon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Edwin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Etiquette Clothiers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Farah Vintage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Fidelity. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Filson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Fred Perry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Frye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 G.R.P. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Gloverall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Goorin Bros. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Grenson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Halcyon Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Hartford. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Heschung. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Holubar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Inis Meáin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 John Partridge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
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Johnson Motors, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 K.O.I. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 K-Way. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Laco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Levi’s® Made & Crafted. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Levi’s® Vintage Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Ludwig Reiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Lyle & Scott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Makr Carry Goods. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Meindl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Merz b. Schwanen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Millican. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 n.d.c. made by hand .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Natural Selection Denim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Nigel Cabourn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. . . . . . . . . 134 Nudie Jeans co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 One True Saxon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Pace Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Pantherella. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Penfield. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Preventi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Primeboots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Prps Japan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Prps Goods & Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Quoddy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 R.M. Williams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 RE: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Redux. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Red Wing Shoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Roy Rogers Rugged. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Saint James . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Salvatore Piccolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Schiesser Revival. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Schott N.Y.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Seil Marschall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Sorel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Sportswear. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Stetson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Stockman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Tellason. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Ten c. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 the last conspiracy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Tricker’s. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 TST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Viberg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Wiggys. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 windsor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Wolsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Wolverine 1000 Mile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Woolrich. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
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WELCOME
l.o .c.k. Labels of common Kin ---------------
Growth means more, development means getting better. The L.O.C.K. has been working on this challenge every single season. The community is growing; fine tuning is on our daily agenda. The main target still remains to offer a unique and concentrated trading platform, where a selection of authentic exhibitors meet the adequate buyers and press from all over the globe. For those who believe in quality, the 6th season of L.O.C.K. will serve you well: more than 90 Labels of Common Kin proudly showcase their individual USP at the Winter 2012 show. Due to the huge demand from upcoming authentic labels we expanded the L.O.C.K.’s main hall with the former fire station of Airport Berlin-Tempelhof. A careful selection of those who are travelling around the globe, showing their passionate creations, generating their orders locally and move on globally,
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come together at the new FIRE DEPT. at the head of the L.O.C.K. hall. This new spot also features the Halligan’s, a coffee bar on the first floor, where you can experience coffee roasting the L.O.C.K. way. The heart of the main L.O.C.K. hall remains the place to recharge and take a break for good food and beverages: The Craftsman’s Canteen. At the L.O.C.K., we are very proud to serve you with new big players and the niche offspring. But beside this strong upgrade of the L.O.C.K. by the new ones, the solid fundament is run by those who committed their participation every single season; some of them already since the very first L.O.C.K. I want to cordially thank you for supporting us in any decision we made so far. This sustainable partnership is the core for prosperous business, the mission statement of L.O.C.K. As
Victorian philanthropist John Ruskin put it: “There is hardly anything in the world that someone cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person’s lawful prey. It is unwise to pay too much, but it is also unwise to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything because the thing you bought is incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a
lot…it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.” In this 5th edition of the L.O.C.K. book we proudly present the Labels of Common Kin at BREAD & BUTTER in Winter 2012. Enjoy exploring!
Alex.ander Kernlinger
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nigel cabourn
DEDICATED T O A FANTASTIC FEAT On January 18th 1912, Captain Robert Falcon Scott, along with four fellow comrades, became the first British explorers to reach the South Pole. Along the way they endured -40째c temperatures and crippling winds. On their return from the Pole, Scott and his comrades all perished from exhaustion, starvation and extreme cold. 10.
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The Nigel Cabourn Authentic Winter 2012 Collection is inspired by the 100th Anniversary of this historic event. In preparation for this monumental celebration, Nigel Cabourn visited the Scott Polar Research Institute at the University of Cambridge. Founded in 1920 to honour the achievements of Captain R.F. Scott and his colleagues, the Scott PolarResearch Institute is dedicated to perpetuating
the legacy of polar exploration and science through research, education and public outreach activities. The Institute investigates thesignificance of the polar regions in a changing world and continues topreserve and make accessible its world-leading collections of polar books, archival manuscripts, artworks and artefacts. Nigel Cabourn: “As a designer whose collections are inspired by history and real vintage
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Interview Uwe van Afferden
The Herita ge Post --------------In my first life, I worked as an illustrator and graphic designer. Due to lucky circumstances, I became a furniture designer and interior decorator.
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In the course of my work, I furnished two stores in the Lorettostrasse in Duesseldorf, and I soon had the chance to rent one of the stores there – an offer
I just couldn’t refuse. This is how I became a retailer, a completely uncharted territory for me at the time, and started with using the store as a showroom for my own furniture, and old industrial design. Since I hadn’t found anything proper to wear in Duesseldorf in the past 20 years, I thought it might make sense to include my favourite brands, which I knew from Amsterdam, Paris
and Antwerpen, in the portfolio of my new store. However, with these labels I soon had to learn how strenuous it can be to swim against the tide. For example, the first jeans that I included were Levi’s Vintage. The price difference between a regular Levi’s and an original Levi’s from 1901 or 1947 was hard to understand for most customers at the time, just as they found it hard to understand why
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Japanese Jeans are more expensive than Chinese. The fact that Harris Tweed itches, welted shoes are stiff, horse leather is expensive and cravats do not necessarily have to have a tip is something that has to be explained to customers again and again. In my opinion, this results from the fact that they lack all information regarding products such as these, and thus are insecure. One day, I came across the Free & Easy magazine from Japan. As a passionate viewer of this magazine (unfortunately I can’t read it), I was reminded of my former
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life’s competences as illustrator and graphic designer, and decided to publish a magazine for men, since there are but a few in Germany so far. In one of the German magazines for men, they write about muscles that I have never used in my whole life. In another, a young football player tests the new luxury sportscar. These negative examples in the German press for men furthered my idea to make a magazine for men that appreciate real quality. For those who prefer authentic products over the fashion creations. In any way, “The Heritage Post” is not a magazine for
people who are only interested in distinguishing themselves through a big car or an expensive watch and who at the same time have spider webs in their fridge and an outlet mattress in their bed. The approach of my magazine is a more didactic one. It is supposed to further the appreciation of products; that the customer knows what he wants, that he gets to know labels that he didn’t know before, and that production techniques and prices are understood. Then he can form his own opinion and style. In this sense, “The Heritage Post” includes all areas of
life, from clothing to hobbies, interesting vehicles, cooking and living: new products, but also already past vintage products that become more beautiful, and develop their individuality with time. Just like us men do... sometimes. Uwe van Afferden Lorettostrasse 35 40219 Düsseldorf uwe@van-afferden.com www.van-afferden.com
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Interview with Enzo Fusco, President and designer of FGF Industry Spa
“no risk, no gl ory” the st ory of an expected success --------------Ten years ago, Enzo Fusco, President of FGF Industry Spa and designer of Blauer, C.P.Company and BPD, had the intuition to import the US Blauer brand in Italy: “I have always loved the military style and, as soon as I knew
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that the company wished to go into the European market, I grasped the opportunity. They were looking for someone familiar with the job and were offering a brand which was surely American in style, but had nothing to do with the
Enzo Fusco
classic war-style. It seemed to me that a very interesting and free space was joining the market. And so it was. I had the right product at the right time. This happened ten years ago. I created the first collection with very few items, and transformed the style of American police into a typically Italian style which was characterized by soft lines and materials. I immediately focused on the originality of both product and brand, paying great attention to the current market trends. Introducing our women collection proved to be a winning move: it nowadays accounts for 45% of our sales. In
short, we have never missed a trick: we have always offered the right garment just when the market needed it. Year after year, we have always updated and reinvented our products, by adding new types every season, from shirts to knitwear. Next winter, at last, we will start selling in U.S.A. and Canada as well: the last missing countries to complete a truly global distribution. Outerwear and leather garments still represent the strengths of the Blauer collection. We are leading the sector also because we offer great innovations every year, from materials to colours and trends”.
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Feature DUKES Finest Artisan
The sustainable leather manufact ory with artistic ambition --------------Ursula Klein und Michael Herzog started out with bringing original vintage T-shirts from L.A. to Europe im 2001. They loved browsing warehouses and extremely enjoyed to restore and
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refine old and special things. On their search for vintage T-shirts, old Levi’s and used leather jackets, they dis‑ covered up to 30 year old military belts. They were sure that something that survives over decades in today’s
throwaway society had to fascinate many others just like it fascinated them. Driven by idealism, the love for craftsmanship and vintage armyclothes and leather, Ursula and Michael started the first Dukes collection, consisting of 10 different belts painted by hand, in their living room in August 2008. It is Ursula’s and Michael’s ambition to create unique items with an artistic character. Their designs are inspired by pop culture, music, Street-Art, nature or the general spirit of life: a combination of the afflicted with the beautiful
and lovely; the sweet with the bitter. A worldwide network of selected partners is looking at markets, in barracks and vintage-warehouses specifically for leather belts, bags and other paraphernalia. In the Dukes workshop, these items are then carefully cleaned, and the belts and bags are exclusively sewn by hand. In case the leather is too dried out, organic oils and lotions made in Austria especially for Dukes are used to revive the leather. A highly motivated team consisting of six skilled workers realizes the high ambitions of Dukes with a lot of
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sensitivity and love. The imprint technique on leather is not a conventional imprint process: just like an oldtimer, old leather has to be handled with a lot of care, for example it burns easily when the heat is too intense. Dukes works with a 120 year old bookbinder hand press with a very high pressure. For one belt, at least six imprint processes are necessary. Former “Augarten” porcelain painters paint the Dukes products by hand, the painting process can take up to three hours, for custom made orders even longer. For special refinement processes, Dukes
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uses selected materials such as exotic leather, reindeer leather, stannic threads or decorative rivets. Their suppliers for more exotic materials are mainly traditional small businesses already existing for many generations. Due to the big success as well as the demand for new leather products with the typical Dukes Finest Artisan character, they started their Heritage Line in 2010. Through the reducing of the ageing process, they have come up with a refinement procedure which makes new leather appear almost used. One of Sweden’s oldest tanneries
supplies Dukes with the best vegetal leather. In the manufactory, the leather is then processed with natural materials and natural essences and with the use of traditional manual skills cut, sewn, coloured and refined by hand to become unique items. Highest priority for AW 12: the further development of the Dukes bags and accessory collection “Travel Essentials”, as well as the introduction of the Dukes jacket collection. The unisex models are custom made items, individually refined, timeless, functional and heavy-duty. The Dukes Finest Artisan jackets are
newly interpreted classics. Exceptional leather variations as well as the Dukes refinement details make every jacket a collector’s item. DUKES Finest Artisan office@dukes-artisan.com www.dukes-artisan.com
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winter 2012 ---------------
B R A N D S
HANDCRAFTED & PERFECTLY A G-ED ----------------
AG Adriano Goldschmied Jeans ---------------
Starting out as a small boutique line in 2000, AG Jeans has since become synonymous with great quality, design and state-of-the-art washes. The ultimate goal for any denim brand is to create jeans with genuine vintage appeal, while maintaining a modern silhouette and authentic washes. The AG brand is dedicated to the continued development of the brand and a commitment to the Made in the USA label. AG is a brand that is centered on recreating vintage denim washes. They pride themselves on offering the most beautiful and true vintage washes in impeccable fits. They always look to vintage jeans when looking for inspiration. Every jean really does tell a story, and
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no two are alike. There’s always a reason why a particular jean has a certain wear pattern depending on the wearer’s lifestyle, job, etc, and that is something the brand pays attention to when creating new washes and fits. The Fall‘12 collection was inspired by iconic silhouettes updated with the fundamentals of good design. Both men’s and women’s top and bottom collections will reflect subtle and refined detailing alongside classic styling. Bottoms will showcase authentic washes with a relaxed feel as well as a wide range of novelty prints and colors. The knit tops will exhibit fine detailing, texture and pop’s of color for women, and clean, practical sophistication for men.
FRENCH RUBBER CRAFTSMAN SINCE 1853 ----------------
Aigle --------------In 1853 the American Hiram Hutchinson created the brand „A l‘aigle“ in France. He obtained the patent from Charles Goodyear for the vulcanisation of rubber, previously used exclusively for tyre manufacturing, in order to make boots and shoes. To this day, this expertise remains concentrated in a single workshop in France, where, from the initial preparation of the rubber to the final touches, every boot is hand made under the attentive control of craftsmen, guaranteeing the waterproofness, durability and comfort of every product. In tradition with this experience and know-how, Aigle launched, in the late eighties, its first clothing and footwear collection. The Aigle range dresses the whole family from head to toe with authentic and durable clothing and footwear combining style and function; all built around one mission: to live at one with nature. In keeping as ever with its inherent nature, and without losing its
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authenticity, this winter, Aigle is taking us along the trail beaten by the European pioneers in their quest to find a new world. Iconic pieces inspired by the brand‘s heritage have been created in high quality materials, which over time develop a beautiful patina. The genuine outdoor piece, the Sixtyfourty parka, becomes a smart jacket to be worn all season long. When the first frost appears, wear it with a down jacket, which can also be worn on its own. The army surplus items have been updated and reinterpreted in keeping with the brand‘s DNA. The Fishtail parka comes in MTD cotton for the beginning of the season, but becomes a down version for winter. The expedition parka range in down has been expanded and now has a choice of cut and length in different materials. An authentic wardrobe including a new range of workboots that crosses the generations and encapsulates the Aigle style.
HERITA GE „MADE IN BRITTANY” ----------------
Armor Lux ---------------
The Bonneterie d‘Armor was founded in 1938 by Swiss-German businessman Walter Hubacher. He started with creating a production of high quality underwear under the brand „Armor Lux“. In 1965 the company bought its first dying facility making it thus fully vertical. In 1970 the company created its first real prêt-à-porter collection, at that time consisting of underwear, striped mariner shirts and mariner jumpers. In 1982 Armor Lux started its first brand shops and after Jean-Guy Le Floc‘h and Michel Gueguen took over in 1993, a total of 35 shops has been installed all over France. Today Bonneterie d‘Armor includes three production facilities in France,
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650 employees and more than 70 years of experience in high quality wear. Armor Lux has always been a company committed to sustainable development and has thus been deeply involved in the local life of the beautiful region of Brittany. Armor Lux supports the 10 principles of the United Nations Global Pact. The company takes part in sustainable development actions implemented by NGO´s, is licensed by Max Havelaar for Fairtrade Cotton and is today the biggest buyer of Fairtrade Cotton Yarns in France. Discover the real Armor Lux heritage „Made in Brittany“: Duffle Coats, Reefer Jackets, Mariner Sweaters and Breton shirts.
GENUINE AMERICAN HAT TRADITION ----------------
Bailey of Hollywood ---------------
In the early 20’s, Southern California’s economy was growing at a breakneck pace. Los Angeles-based film studios accounted for nearly one-fifth of California’s annual manufacturing business, and it was there that George Bailey would start his business in 1922: the Bailey Hat Company. He catered directly to the needs of the ‘New West’, outfitting southern California ranchers, businessmen, oil tycoons and, the newest segment of the population, movie stars, with ‘the best hat possible’. George Bailey understood Hollywood’s leading men as arbiters of taste and style, and from its very early days, Bailey of Hollywood was chosen as a regular supplier to the Hollywood cinema industry – with customers such as Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper or Bing Cosby. Bailey of Hollywood has earned an exceptional reputation by continually
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providing its customers with the same unparalleled quality and craftsmanship as well as sophisticated industry-leading designs. The collections maintain this heritage - a combination of Hollywood and Western-alive by revising classic styles from their archives, as well as creating new contemporary designs, as now designed by the famed Victor Osborne. During the last five years, Bailey of Hollywood hats have been taken in by hat lovers in London’s Shoreditch and Camden, Paris’ Belle‑ ville and Le Marais and Madrid’s La Latina and Chueca. Bailey’s “traditionalAmerican-flavour-with-a-twist” has proved to be a successful recipe with the new generation of hat wearers that make Bailey of Hollywood as fresh and happening as in the heyday of the cinema mecca: Keeping the genuine American hat tradition alive!
RICH HERITA GE ----------------
Barbour ---------------
Quality, durability and fitness for purpose have been the guiding principles of the iconic British brand since 1894. Family owned, Barbour is sold in over 40 countries worldwide offering a wardrobe of clothes for the style conscious. Autumn Winter 12 sees a fusion of country, motorbike and military inspired styles from the archives, interpreting the future through Barbour’s rich heritage: Beacon Heritage, Barbour’s premium menswear collection, expands to include shirts and knits alongside Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida’s deeply detailed coats. The Barbour Steve McQueen® collection evokes a spirit of camaraderie, the toughest riding with mates and chewing over the spoils afterwards. Highlights include weathered iconic photos
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of Steve McQueen, mud splatter effects and stars and stripes on buttons and linings. The International range combines functional, form fitting, authentic jackets styled on Barbour’s biking history. The Trophy collection is a must for purists while Black Streak features monochromatic styles. In contrast, Barbour Man applies subtle colour to rugged motorcycling cuts. The Heritage collection updates perennial favourites with a modern approach. Country Vintage is Barbour Country at its’ most directional with soft structured blazers, fishing inspired jackets and Fair Isle and cable knits. Military Services takes navy and olive as base colours in wax, waterproof breathables, quilt and wool fabrics.
Uncompromising Performance ----------------
Blauer. ---------------
For over 60 years, Blauer has been the leading brand in the U.S. for supplying technical garments to all Law Enforcement and to some select sectors of the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy officers or the Commando guarding the White House. Under its motto “Uncompromising Performance”, Blauer equips its customers with outerwear protecting them against heat and cold, water and danger. In the U.S., Blauer garments are only sold through specialized channels such as Police Agencies. In 2001, FGF Industry SpA CEO and Art Director, Enzo Fusco was inspired to create the first Blauer USA Collection for the worldwide fashion market. A licensing agreement was in fact signed for production and global distribution of Blauer clothing which manages to be at the cutting edge and in total align-
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ment with the medium-high level, top quality fashion market trend based on the genuine spirit of the brand, while retaining all of the essential, technical and constructive features of the pieces and original fabrics. Blauer products are aimed at consumers who love traditional USA-made brands and technical clothing with real history and a total handle on the genuine, original article despite being reworked and often innovated in its comfort, styling and wearability, and also brought up to date with the right “fit” for the international fashion market. The Blauer brand has developed two main kinds of products: Blauer Helmets, under the Blauer HT logo and Blauer Shoes for shoes and accessories. Both are distributed by a specialized network that is ruled by FGF Industry Spa.
NEW FINE AMERICAN B ASIC ----------------
B. D. Baggies --------------According to legend the origin of B.D. Baggies dates back to 1919, when young Bradford Dexter Bagg discovered a trunk full of his father‘s old clothes, very well made and comfortable. Bradford‘s friends admired his new wardrobe and soon the clothes with that air of being „lived in“ were called B.D. Baggies in honour of the first person to wear them. In 2009 WP Lavori in Corso re-launched the brand worldwide by completely modernizing concept, style and product. Under the creative direction and design of David Mullen, the B.D. Baggies project returns to the American origins of the brand. Designed in the USA, from 100% pre-laundered cloth with a lived-in look and an unmistakable appeal, the collection contains original styles, innovative fabrics and designs and a new fit. Women’s FW12 features light weight flannel shirts, brushed and washed for a super soft hand, in melange yarn dye colours, and references back to the
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‘blouse’ with feminine details such as a neck tie and elastic smocking in silk and silk blends, but laundered to give it that laid back, casual ease. Silhouettes are generous to exploit the movement and drape of the fabrics. Highlights include the Empire Tunic and beautiful sweaters in mohair blends, and a cotton silk shirt dress with a fluid fit. A boiled wool shirt jacket, light yet warm, and a classic denim jacket trimmed with (faux) shearling continue the ‘borrowed from the boys’ theme. Men s FW12 plays on striped poplin shirts in mélange yarn dye colours, whilst the flannel fabrics focus on check patterns, completed with other more dressy styles. Furthermore, 5-pocket trousers; playful mélange flannel blazers; warm wool shirt jackets and a compelling array of mixed-cashmere, wool and alpaca knitwear complement FW12 men s that stays true to B.D. Baggies fine America basic heritage but with a more refined twist.
100% MADE IN FRANCE ----------------
Bleu de Chauffe ---------------
Inspired by the industrial universe of the 20th century, Bleu de Chauffe produces work bags reinvented in a contemporary and urban way, with a clear and sharp design. The name Bleu de Chauffe derives from the blue jacket worn by French factory workers and locomotive drivers in the late 19th and early 20th century – “mettre son bleu de chauffe” is a popular French expression for getting to work. These products are simple, practical and stylish. Bleu de Chauffe pride themselves in the fact that their bags are made 100% in France, following their motto savoir-faire de proximité : The Bleu de Chauffe workshop is located in La Vallée de la Saure near the Larzac province (France). The cutting, fabrication and stitching are hand-made by qualified local artisans renowned for their skills, experience and expertise.
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Social and environmental values are at the centre of the Bleu de Chauffe approach and guide all their actions. Proximity and traceability of all components help to reduce the Bleu de Chauffe carbon footprint. The Bleu de Chauffe leathers are organic, natural leathers. In the tanning process, only vegetal tanning agents such as mimosa, chestnut, and acacia are used. The Bleu de Chauffe tannery in Aveyron takes huge precautions in its water treatment: After use, the water is left to settle, then clarified and released into the river just as pure as it was before being used. A special Bleu de Chauffe feature is the traceability label: the artisan signs and dates each bag he has made, underlining the handcrafted aspect and uniqueness of each of these beautiful products.
MANY THINGS PERISH, FEW SURVIVE. ----------------
Blue de Gênes ---------------
Founded in 2010 in Kolding, Denmark by Ole Madesen, Bleu de Gênes is a Danish denim label taking its inspiration from the origin of jeans: the history of jeans started in Genova, Italy, more than 400 years ago. At that time, the harbour workers in Genova used a robust fabric called „Geanes fustian“, made of Arab cotton, for working clothes and sailcloth. The material was dyed blue with indigo, very strong and thus well suited for work pants for these hardworking dockers and sailors. This fabric was exported to other countries, and eventually known as the Blue from Genova, or in French „Bleu de Gênes“ since Genova at that time belonged to France. The English adaptation of the
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expression then became „Blue Jeans“. The story behind the blue jeans and Blue de Gênes is the starting point of this collection, a clothing line with an authentic look and high quality materials, featuring hand knitted sweaters, and Japanese selvage fabrics. Blue de Gênes jeans are produced in Italy, and just as Blue de Gênes is a family run business, the suppliers are small family run factories. The quality of these rough jeans is never being compromised. All styles have a strong and unique identity and a design that will last for several years. Claiming that it is indigo that is „flowing in their veins“, Blue de Gênes promise to continue the legacy of Genova.
AN A UTHENTIC EXPERIENCE ----------------
Brooklyn Motors ---------------
The Authentic New York T-shirt brand BROOKLYN MOTORS’ inspiration dates back to the early 1900’s in Brooklyn, New York and the evolution of motorcyclists. In 1903 the Kings County Wheelman of Brooklyn established the federation of American Motorcyclists, the forerunner for the AMA (American Motorcyclist Association). In the same year New York inaugurated laws for proper registration of motorcycles and all motor vehicles. These events, along with the early motorcycle culture inspire Brooklyn Motors to develop products with a sense of nostalgia. Brooklyn’s landmarks, history and deep culture
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has helped cultivate Brooklyn Motors. Brooklyn Motors philosophy is simple, “It’s all about the experience within the ride”, cruising at a steady smooth pace and enjoying life. Riding in the early 1900’s was not about racing and speed, more about relaxing and enjoying the journey. Brooklyn Motors reflects the sense of riding in comfort, having an edgy sensibility and creating fun along the way. The T-shirts are made of soft 100% slub cotton, finished with a technique to create a worn in vintage feel. Each unique graphic reflects an icon, moment or object from the past. All products are designed in Brooklyn, produced in the United States of America and made for you.
REFINED TUSCAN SHOEMAKING ----------------
Buttero ---------------
Buttero emerges from the sun beaten hills of Tuscany: the best traditions of Italian shoemaking refined into leather footwear of premium quality. Named after Tuscany’s old-time cowboys, the Buttero brand is renowned around the world for its superior leather riding and casual boots. Handmade by craftsmen in StabbiaTuscany, the production company honors as of today the Tuscan recipe book with simple, honest, and quality local ingredients. Buttero uses only the best local vegetable-tanned leathers named Vachetta, which will age beautifully with usage, like the region’s famous wines.
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A special sewing construction binds the upper to the sole unit. The silhouettes of the shoes and boots benefit from the Italian eye for form, proportion and style. The result: a fusion of delicate rawness and timeless elegance. Founded in 1974 by Mauro Sani, who set out to make the best riding boots in the world, Buttero remains owned and run by the Sani family. Buttero’s soul – and sole – is bound to Tuscany. The footwear has and always will be made in this enchanted region of Italy. Buttero manufactures shoes with a passion for tradition, creativity and authenticity: the Buttero mark is a symbol of quality. Il Profumo della pelle.
ASK ANY ONE WHO KNO WS™ ----------------
Canada Goose ---------------
For more than 50 years, Canada Goose has been producing authentic extreme weather gear born of purpose and function, designed for those who need the confidence that come from quality. Beginning with a modest line of jackets and woolen shirts created in a small warehouse in Toronto, Canada Goose today has grown to be recognized internationally as the leading manufacturer of extreme weather outerwear in the world. Canada Goose has kept the production at home in Canada,
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believing that no one can do it better – but the products enjoy a truly global reach. Canada Goose is born of purpose and function - equally at home in the weather research stations of the frigid South Pole as it is on the windswept Iditarod dog sledding trail in Alaska, on movie sets in remote locations around the world, and in the most exclusive high-fashion centers. Wherever people need protection from the elements, top quality and iconic style, you’ll find Canada Goose.
FROM DETROIT WITH L O VE ----------------
Carhartt Work in Progress --------------In 1889, Hamilton Carhartt founded the Carhartt company in Detroit, starting with four sewing machines and five employees. His first products were workman¹s overalls made of denim fabric and duck, commonly called canvas, that later became Carhartt’¹ s trademark fabric. Since the early days the brand was dedicated to a mission of providing “Best In Class” apparel, tailored to meet the highest standards of quality, durability, and comfort. Inventions like triple-stitched seams, the usage of copper rivets at stress points and strengthened buttonholes guaranteed extra durability and a whole other list of extras made Carhartt products the best choice of hard working men. Today, Carhartt is one of the largest outfitters for tradespeople in the US where it enjoys a legendary reputation as the garment of choice for craftsmen from every field. Carhartt¹’s success story in Europe begins in 1994, when
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selected products were authorized outside of the US for the first time under distribution by Work in Progress. The authentic Carhartt workwear products quickly became popular with both fans of traditional US heritage garments and people from to the nascent urban culture and urban sports scene in Europe. The success was immediate. European riders, graffiti writers, and MCs recognised Carhartt’¹ s straightforward and rugged clothing as an authentic expression of their style. The first product range designed exclusively for Europe followed in 1997. The original workwear cuts were re-interpreted and re-fitted for the demands of an active life in the urban environment true to Carhartt’¹ s core values: outstanding design combined with exceptional quality, durability and comfort, allowing a sophisticated style and clean aesthetic due to a modern interpretation of Carhartt‘s legendary workwear legacy.
REINTERPRETED ICONIC PIECES ----------------
CHEVIGNON HERITAGE by Milan Vukmirovic ---------------
Launched in 1979, the Chevignon brand was a reinterpretation of the American dream of the fifties. Two years later it took wing with the creation of a distressed leather aviator jacket. In no time this model became a must have in school yards. In 1984 the label won a similar following with the Togs Unlimited Puffer Jacket. This incredible success encouraged the simultaneous launch of the Kids and then the Girl line in 1989. Since 2007, Chevignon is owned by the French Vivarte group. Chevignon, the dream brand of all eighties teenagers and the French artistic director Milan Vukmirovic, who belongs to that generation, are joining up to launch a new line, Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic, for AW 12. Milan gives a modern and trendy twist to this collection, as the young
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successful and hip Artistic Director he is, both as a renowned stylist and photographer. Made up of eight outfits for men and women, this collection will reinterpret the codes and iconic pieces of the label inspired by the American dream since it began in 1979. Chevignon Heritage by Milan Vukmirovic is for all those who wore a distressed leather aviator jacket or a Togs Unlimited puffer jacket in their younger days. As life has not diminished their deep attachment to this cult label, the idea is to entice them once more with contemporary models that evoke that fabulous past. Their price position will be slightly higher than the traditional Chevignon ranges, because of the special care taken over the choice of materials and the exceptional manufacturing quality.
HARVEY‘S FALL ----------------
Clip & Rope ---------------
He lived off his land. He took advantage of what nature had to offer him. His design was inspired by his experiences with the forest, the mountains and the rivers of Wisconsin. 1932 was the year when Clip & Rope was created in John Harvey‘s log cabin deep within the woods of Wisconsin. The unique design of his hiking boots captured the attention of the local residents for whom he produced them in small quantity, until one fall in the late 70‘s when he passed away together with his Clip & Rope boots. In the beginning of the 21st century his designs was discovered in the abandoned log
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cabin. Clip & Rope was brought back to life and today Harvey‘s story is being told in all corners of the world. For the current collection, Clip & Rope has chosen the wild nature of Wisconsin as an inspiration source. Harvey died in the fall, a time when the trees begin to change colour, bringing a beautiful array of different coloured foliage. It is a time where these warm, thick enticing colours dominate one’s vision. The trees‘ dark shadows of orange, brown, green and yellow evoke the notion of the merciless and unimaginable force of nature.
DISTANT PAST, NEAR FUTURE ---------------
Denham the jeanmaker --------------Since the label’s onset, Denham has both worshipped tradition as well as destroyed convention. That impulse has led to the combining of historical research with an equal dedication to modern design. For Winter 12, the design team has spread its reach even wider, incorporating more ancient design traditions while also focussing even more keenly on the future of utility garment design. Highlands High Altitude to Shetland Suborbital: The atmosphere of the Winter 12 collection draws on the colours, fabrics and print inspirations from northernmost reaches of the UK: Scotland, The Shetland Islands, the Orkneys and the Hebrides, injected with a dynamic current of modernity, influenced partly by Denham’s recent involvement in the development of limited edition flight gear for the S.X.C. (Space Expedition Curacao) suborbital travel program. Colours for the season’s earlier deliveries are warm autumnal tones, convert-
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ing to a cooler pallet of tarnished grays and icy blues as winter approaches. Fabrics for men mix deep tradition with bold futurism, including waterproof/ breathable camel leather from Danna Tanneries, Fox Brothers wool, two-tone red & navy mackintosh, indigo-dipped vintage linen, re-purposed Italian Navy blankets and glow-in-the-dark, memory and pigment-printed nylons. The women’s fabric range includes “pure-touch” leathers from Danna Tan– neries, cashmere meltonblends, indigodipped vintage linen, silk-mixes and cupra cotton. Both collections feature a range of grafting techniques whereby nylon sleeves are mixed with melton bodies, heavy-knit collars are grafted to military twill jackets, tweed and leather are pieced together to compliment the anatomy of a jacket design and stretch rib panels are inserted into designs to increase comfort and mobility.
a british classic ----------------
Dr. Martens ---------------
Dr. Martens air-cushioned sole, designed by German inventor Dr. Klaus Maertens, was engineered to meet the specific need of providing additional support and comfort for a broken foot. Through an ad in the British Shoe & Leather News, Dr. Maertens met British boot makers R Griggs and Co, and in 1960, the first Dr. Martens boot was manufactured, with its trademark yellow stitch, grooved sole and heel-loop. It was a boot for workers: comfortable, durable and lightweight in comparison to its competitors at the time. Initially worn by postmen, policemen and everyday workers, the boots were adopted, customised and used as a tribal emblem by successive subcultures, decade after decade. Over the past 50 years, the Dr. Martens 1460 boot hasn’t changed. The original boot is still simple, versatile, functional and stylish all at the same time – yet still
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associated with individuality, creativity and rebellion. Dr. Martens continue to make the Made In England collection at the unique Cobb’s Lane factory, which has been producing footwear for the Griggs family since 1901. Within this modest factory walls work a close-knit family of people steeped in traditional shoemaking methods. In amongst the smell of freshly cut leather and the noisy backdrop of pristinely preserved machinery, the unmistakable shape of a Dr. Martens boot begins to form: travelling the short length of the factory floor beginning with a small pile of tanned leather hides. The process takes the boot through various highly skilled stages of evolution until its final arrival – laced up and spotless – in a box, ready for a life of being cherished. Dr. Martens 1460 - an immediately recognisable, British product classic.
A USTRALIAN HERITA GE ----------------
Driza-Bone ---------------
In the 1890s, a Scottish sailor by the name of Edward Le Roy who sailed the great southern oceans discovered that the torn sails on his ship could be recycled into long coats and sou’westers by painting the fabric with a mixture of oils. Subsequently, Le Roy opened a small factory in Sydney Australia, transforming his ideas into excellent wet weather coats. The word spread about the effectiveness of Le Roy’s coats and they were adopted for work on the land with the fantail to protect the horse rider’s saddle and the leg straps to protect from high winds. For over 110 years now, Driza-Bone has been an important part of Australia’s
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rural heritage, the great industry of wool, livestock and grain production. It has clothed the men who built the railways, roads and highways of Australia. Driza-Bone served the two world wars and travelled with the explorers from the Antarctic to the mountains of the Himalayas, making the brand an intrinsic part of Australian history. Today the company continues to use fabrics, finishes and manufacturing techniques that have instilled the philosophy of simple, comfortable, hardwearing, outdoor apparel which remains authentic and understated clothing from work to weekend for the city, coast and country.
Antarctic Expedition 1929-31 Image Credit: National Library of Australia
PACIFIC HEROES ----------------
Dukes – Finest Vintage Artisan --------------Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan is a luxury leather manufactory and stands for traditional craftsmanship, functionality, art and stable value. The vintage-collection consists of a passionately restored exclusive range of unique and extremely rare up to 30 years old army leather belts and bags. The heritage-collection is made of naturally grained heavy duty bullleather from one of the oldest Swedish tanneries. Dukes developed a process to age the leathers and give them a unique authentic character by using natural ingredients. The collection is inspired by the appeal to combine the afflicted with the beautiful and lovely; sweet and bitter, like the spirit of life. The products are elaborately adorned: embossed, riveted and painted by the skilled hands of former members of Vienna´s Augarten porcelain manufactory. Every processing step is done by hand. Each style is a unique and authentic
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collector´s item with heart and history. The current collection is inspired by the United States Army Air Force (USAAF), the United States Marine Corps (USMC) and the Imperial Japanese Airforce (IPA) of the 40´s. Besides the Dukes basics: belts, bags and accessories, the highlights are U.S. pilot jackets B3, B7 and A2, U.S. marine HBT heringbone utility jackets, and Japanese and USMC field caps. Furthermore, Dukes introduces Dieter Boecksteiner, one of the most enthusiastic conservators of original U.S. uniforms. He is the first address for collectors to restore original US flight jackets. Thanks to his knowledge of restoring and repairing, Dieter Boecksteiner handcrafts and reproduces flight jackets with original patterns for Dukes. The jackets are then refined with vintage leather, handpainted details and rivets.
SUPERIOR CONSTRUCTION, SMART DESIGN. ----------------
Dunderdon ---------------
Innovative Swedish workwear brand Dunderdon was born a decade ago in the Swedish port town of Gothenburg. Founded by carpenter Per-Ivan Hagberg, the mission at Dunderdon has always been to create clothing for craftsmen who appreciate superior construction and smart design. Per-Ivan has always been driven by a vision that there would be no filler designs in the Dunderdon line, that each product would have a reason of being and would satisfy specific needs. This remains a guiding credo until today. Dunderdon products should represent the highest craftsmanship and innovation, while never compromising on fit and style. They respect the past, but don’t rely on it. For Fall 2012, Dunderdon makes no compromise. The quality standard has
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been raised once more to satisfy their customers’ highest expectations while being affordable. Traditional and very reliable fabrics like heavyweight „Trenkercord“ or „Duvetine moleskin“ from an old German factory are used. Traditional German carpenters have been using these fabrics since 1804. Another highlight is the use of „Vantage twill“- this Cordura/cotton fabric, issued from the workwear, feels like cotton, but is six times stronger against abrasion. In addition to these fabric innovations, Dunderdon offers basic work jackets with coated canvas like a J25, parachute poplins with down filling, regular chinos, a wide range of heavy wool knits and supersoft warm duvetine and moleskin plain shirts.
HERITA GE PURITY WITH MODERN UTILITY ----------------
Edwin ---------------
In 1947, Edwin Denim Company was established in Tokyo, by K.K. Tsunemi, the company name playing on the word “denim” with the “m” turned upside down. At first, Mr. Tsunemi had to import used denim from the U.S. since no denim was manufactured in Japan at the time: worn-out and dirty denim which had to be laundered and mended by hand in order to sell on to his customers. In 1951, domestically manufactured, but poor quality denim was available for the first time in Japan. Mr Tsumeni was driven to create his own denims, with greater sophistication in fits, washes and quality. He crafted the first pair of Japanese made five pocket, signature 16oz Rainbow selvage denim in 1961. With genuine craftsmanship, quality and innovation at the heart of its identity, Edwin uses exclusive fabrics while employing unique technology,
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hand wash processes and continual progression in design and fit, while remaining close to its Japanese roots and gaining inspiration from its historical denim archive dating back to 1947: Fusing heritage purity and manufacturing experience with modern utility. AW 12 is inspired by nature, isolation, big space: an outdoor feeling, featuring heavy fabrics such as 500 grams jersey, heavy canvas and blanket lined, brushed wool denim. A new rainbow listed selvage Japanese denim of 12 oz was exclusively developed for Edwin. Again on offer: a range of new washes, mostly based on natural worn patterns. For the first time, Edwin has dyed the existing heavy black denim to offer coloured denim with Olive , Tobacco, and Chocolate as fall colours. In Europe, Edwin has teamed up with Lavenham to produce timeless pieces, made of a brushed wool denim.
THE W ORLD‘S MOST PROPER BASICS ----------------
Etiquette Clothiers --------------Dedicated to perfecting basics socks, underwear and tops - for men, women, children and babies alike. The Etiquette Clothiers collection is made of the highest quality materials, combining the traditions of classic craftsmanship and artisanship with modern design. Founded in 2011 by marketing maven Benjamin G. Vergnion, Etiquette Clothiers offers luxurious and accessible basics that are fashionable, but always wearable for a timeless sophistication. Vergnion used resources and clever designs rarely seen in this field: 40/1 organic, supima & sea Island cottons, French-made custom three hole mother of pearl buttons, cotton waist bands, inside front slip boxer shorts, or 240 needle sock machines with a steamed & pressed finish. But what would be the „The World‘s Most Proper Basics“ without loving care? After all, basics are the first layer of clothing to touch your skin, the first layer of clothing you
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put on. So Etiquette Clothiers also provides products and advices needed for a long lasting relationship between you and your „innerwear“, from soft soap, to socks clips, from darning eggs to packing advice. In celebration of the launch of their first collection, Etiquette Clothiers published the book: „The Basics of Etiquette - Vol.1“, from a joyful history of underwear and socks to very practical tips about how to take care of your most cherished basics, the book has it all: „underwear personality index“, „underwear do‘s and don‘ts“, „darning a hole in socks“, „How to fold“, and much more. Collaborations include: The „Koi Clouds“ suitcase line with Globe-Trotter, the „Unscented Basics Laundry Detergent“ with The Laundress New York, the „Ultimate Sock Garter“ with J.P Graytok, and the „Positive/Negative Spaces“ Delft-inspired limited edition collection designed by Dutch pop artist Jonny Detiger.
SHARP SILHOUETTES ----------------
Farah Vintage ---------------
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FARAH was born in 1920 in the US, but it was not until the 1970’s in the UK that it reached the cult status it holds today. The original, slim cut and sharply tailored FARAH slack made from hopsack canvas became an immediate hit with the youth of Britain. Momentum for FARAH grew and in the 1980’s the brand became a must have label amongst fashion savvy hipsters. Today the FARAH label still holds the heritage, quality and vigour it stood for then. Drawing on its long history and heritage, Farah Vintage focuses on functional outdoor garments for AW12, continuing to reference the early days of polar exploration and pre-technology sport and adventure. Traditional rough weather garments meet the sharp silhouettes of 80s British youth culture, softened and loosened for a fresh and modern silhouette. Outerwear continues to be a focus, with typical Farah attention to detail: branded snaps, leather football and new chalky white buttons, lift and
accentuate waxed cottons and warm wool bombers. The 80s return, updated, as a new look slim fit donkey jacket, and a waxed cotton sleeveless gilet with flannel lining. Trousers maintain their edge with the new dropped crotch, slim leg engineered Hunter style, and welcome the return of the Albany and Chester chino. Colour is rich and mellow, with forest greens and burnt rust tones, soft and warming reds with pops of Satsuma orange and dusty yellow. Navys and classic midnight are joined by rich petrol and flashes of turquoise. For Farah 1920, workwear influences and attention to detail mark AW 12. Highlights: an officer Melton shirt and the snorkel Parka . Mélange flecks and dye finishes add a new crafted dimension to the range that is enhanced by simple details such as wooden buttons, leather patches and branded press studs. Colours include forest shades, deep reds, deep blues and natural light shades.
REW ORKING THE CLASSIC PEA CO AT ----------------
Fidelity by Gerald & Stewart ---------------
In 1941, Fidelity Sportswear was founded in Boston as a family business, first supplying the US Navy, and then American army navy stores with high quality bomber jackets and pea coats. The brothers Gerald and Stewart, today the owners of Fidelity, joined the business as teenagers, learning all there is to know about scissors, sewing and shipping on the job. Gerald and Stewart are still in the factory, an 85,000 sq ft building in Boston, reviewing production and personally supervising with their staff all aspects of production. For the last 30 years, Fidelity has made quality coats, sourcing all wool in North America from long-standing suppliers. In the last 10 years, Fidelity
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has shipped thousands of coats made in the U.S.A. to high-end stores around the world. Customers include fine shops in Japan and Europe as well as many Army Navy Stores where Fidelity pea coats can be had to replace the coats many service men and women have been issued by the US Navy over the years. Fidelity has its association with the US Dept of Defense through Homeland Security. The classic pea coat is GSA certified. Fidelity by Gerald & Stewart goes beyond the Navy pea coat with a collection for men and women. Highlights are the fitted CPO shirts and reworked classic pea coats. The concept: to honour historical military garments with mo‑ dern styling and outstanding quality.
made for a lifetime ----------------
Filson ---------------
When the Great Clondike Gold Rush started in 1897, C.C. Filson outfitted the fortune hunters rushing through Seattle on their way north. The men were in need of a barrier against temperatures up to -50 °C. At the time, clothing was a matter of survival. Filson had the solution: best handcrafted, tough protective wear, comfortable, functional outdoor clothing. “If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit.” was the Filson claim in those days. Since then, Filson products made in Seattle, U.S.A., have earned a worldwide reputation for their quality and durability. Hunters, fishermen, engineers, explorers, mariners, and miners have valued the rugged quality duffle bags, tote bags, sweaters, jackets, and belts. Today, adventurers in the business world can carry their laptop in a reliable Filson
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bag throughout their various quests. The attention to detail is apparent everywhere: “Cover”, “Shelter” and “Tin” cloths are made of extremely dense woven cotton, soaked in a special, paraffin-based wax. The leather used by Filson is cut from the strongest parts of the cow skin, and tanned vegetal. Only 100 percent Virgin wool is used, for the fibres come straight from the sheep and have ideal isolating and water absorbing qualities. Filson bags are the toughest luggage you’ll ever own: Filson claim to have once even lifted a 230 pounds heavy 1968, 1,500 c,c, Single Port Volkswagen engine in one of their Extra Large Duffle bags, six feet in the air. Both bag and engine survived the experiment. These unique, all-natural products are truly made for a lifetime.
BRITISH W ORKWEAR ----------------
Fred Perry ---------------
Fred Perry was formed in 1952 by the British tennis legend and table tennis champion of the same name. The iconic Laurel Wreath was introduced and still stands as a symbol of excellence, paying homage to the man who rose from humble beginnings to conquer Wimbledon three times. Fred Perry has influenced and introduced some of the most iconic styles of the last century, which continue to be relevant today. Building on a unique history based on both sports and streetwear, Fred Perry continues to successfully fuse heritage with contemporary product design. For AW11 Fred Perry returns to its roots, with a collection that references
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the styles and fabrics of classic British factory and workshop wear of the 1930‘s and 40‘s. The son of a Stockport cotton spinner; Fred Perry’s drive and determination was born from a culture of hard work and perfecting your craft. The collection sees rich wool flannel jackets sit alongside heavy down coats; layered over textured knits and tri-colour marl sweats. Taking inspiration from both the factory floor and the working man’s club, the collection features refined but heardwearing pieces alongside traditional tartan and Oxford shirtings, tipped and plain pique jerseys and fine gauge merino knits.
FINELY CRAFTED HERITA GE ----------------
Frye ---------------
Founded in 1863 by John A Frye, The Frye Company is the oldest continuously operated shoe company in the United States. Frye’s footwear has a long and illustrious history: when homesteading sparked adventurous New England families to go West in the mid and late 1800’s, many of those pioneers wore Frye Boots along the journey. Frye’s Harness Boot is rooted in tradition and continues to draw inspiration from the American Cavalry. During a 1938 trip to Washington, DC, John A Frye’s grandson and namesake, a US Navy Admiral, noted his difficulty in finding the Wellington styles he liked so much. As a favor, John agreed to make him a pair. Frye continued to fill these requests for boots through WW II. By mail order, the company supplied thousands of servicemen with Frye Wellingtons, known as Jet Boots. The
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boots traveled the world on the feet of US soldiers during the war – even General Patton wore a pair. Today, their classic Harness Boot holds a treasured place in American culture. In the 1960’s, Frye re-introduced the Campus Boot based on its 1860’s original. The style featured a bulky toe and chunky heel that came to epitomize the attitude and the styles of the 60’s and 70’s. There was nothing like a “new” Frye Boot on the market, and consumers began to demand “Original Frye’s.” The Smithsonian Institute, in their search for items to best represent 1970’s America, chose a pair of Frye Boots, which proudly remain on display today. The Frye brand remains true to its heritage and vintage American roots with finely crafted, fashionable boots, shoes, and leather goods featuring rich leathers and quality hardware.
ARTFULLY MANUFACTURED IN TUSCANY ----------------
G.R.P. ---------------
Founded in Tuscany in 1973, the knitting factory G.R.P. has developed working methods that combine traditional manufacturing with a modern sense for classics. The design and production of the G.R.P. knitwear take place in Carmignano in the Tuscan hills of the Medici, a location steeped in history, with a long tradition in the areas of art, agriculture and food production. The highly qualified G.R.P specialists work with the same passion that a craftsman feels for any of his products, thereby proving his love for his native region. In its knitting factory in the Tuscan Carmignano hills, G.R.P. produces high quality products for its international customers. For the G.R.P. knitwear, the world’s best yarns are chosen: Australian Super-Geelong wool, merino and lamb wool, American and Peruvian Pima cotton or linen. The precise work and ambition in stylistic decisions is
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also apparent in details such as buttons with four drill holes from four different kinds of wood, which are hand-sewn with a special technique, the “Florence Lily”. In this Italian region, where the best agricultural products are produced and processed - the so-called slow food -, the traditional vocation to work with selected raw materials by hand, and throughout generations, is part of the G.R.P. company culture. The love for a naturalness that satisfies the body, and for a holiness that enlightens the spirit, is the daily inspiration for the work of G.R.P., in a magic atmosphere that has also inspired the painter Pontormo for his painting “La Visitazione” (1528), which was preserved in the local church of San Michele. For these reasons, the G.R.P. tags are not labelled “100 % Made in Italy”, but… artfully manufactured in Tuscany.
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A DESIGN CLASSIC ----------------
Gloverall ---------------
In 1951, Freda and Harold Morris, specialised in selling cotton, leather, plastic-coated chain-mail, industrial gloves and also cotton overalls out of sheer necessity, were approached by the British Ministry of Defence to help dispose of their surplus supplies of World War II duffle coats. It was then that Harold Morris conceived the name Gloverall: a brand was born. When the supply of the ex War Duffle coats was exhausted and the demand was still there, Mr Morris promptly got hold of some cloth and had new Duffle coats made, with leather thongs in place of rope and Horn Toggles: the very first Gloveralls. Today, Gloverall has become one of the most respected and loved British brands, recognised worldwide as pro-
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ducers of the foremost Original Duffle Coat. The Gloverall has gained truly iconic status as a design classic. AW12 features a classic English Country look that is second nature to the Gloverall Duffle Coat. Shearling fleece lined cord styles meet classic tartans and modern tweeds that also feature in a rich blend of colours from the autumnal landscape. Inspiration for AW12 comes from industrial and Military design. Utilitarian garments like the donkey jacket and the duffle coat were originally created not to be aesthetically pleasing but out of necessity. The simplicity and adaptability of these garments is what has given them an enduring longevity and makes them the design classics that no complete wardrobe should be without.
BOLD HAT MAKING ----------------
Goorin Bros. ---------------
This is the story of Goorin Brothers, the bold hat makers. It all started in 1895 with Cassel Goorin, who sold his first hat off the back of a horse cart in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. These hats embodied individuality, integrity, and grand craftsmanship, the hallmarks of Cassel’s vision. Passion and dedication in the hands of an original thinker formed the Goorin tradition that redefined the art of hat making. Old-world craft has evolved into a timeless trade and this devotion has made Goorin Brothers the bold hat making company that it is today. These dynamic hats have allowed individuals, one by one, to tell their stories without ever having to say a word. Cassel began each of his distinctive hats on custom wooden hat-blocks, each block having its own soul, its own personality. Cassel considered these blocks and patterns his secret recipes and he
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kept them safely guarded from his competitors’ constant gaze. He measured his clients’ heads, sized up their features, looked deeply into their interests and personalities and crafted a custom hat to fit their character. Each hat was truly inspired by the individual. Adding the right feather, sewing the right lining, and often changing the block or pattern entirely, he set out to make each hat one of a kind. Cassel rejected the impersonal methods of mass production, preferring instead to hand deliver each of his hats, often making a custom hatbox to complete the package. Today, Cassel Goorin’s great-grandson takes the lead of the company with an eye to the future and a strong foundation in his heritage. By bringing back Cassel’s secret recipes and adding modern twists, Goorin Brothers hats once again stands out as a company representing authenticity and creativity.
HERITA GE IS B ACK ----------------
Grenson ---------------
This season, Grenson presents its 289th collection since the company began in 1866. Operating from the original Victorian factory in Northamptonshire, England, Grenson is a Goodyear Welted shoemaker with many generations of experience. The mainline collection is called G1 and is handmade in the factory using the ultimate in luxury materials and handmade techniques, to produce their
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prototype collection in Limited Edition form. The diffusion line is called G2 and is the replica collection of similar styles made from the original G1 prototypes but in more affordable materials. The Grenson factory also works on a limited number of collaborations with like-minded retailers, brands and other designers to produce unique dual branded shoes, in small quantities.
STYLISH BUT NEVER TRENDY ----------------
Hartford --------------NYC, 1979: Yves Chareton founded the Hartford collection, following his vision to recreate 40’s and 50’s vintage shirts he had found at Parisian Porte de Clignancourt flea markets in the late 60’s - ubiquitous button-downs in faded plaids or bright oxford, westerns in raw denim and work shirts in chambray. Thanks to a manufacturer who believed in his vision, Yves was able to launch a casual and cool line of vintageinspired shirts. Hartford was an instant success, and fans such as Bruce Springsteen ordered dozens of shirts to wear in concert. Hartford became synonymous with quality fabrics, rich colours, and above all, with authenticity. Yves had an eye for refined prints, and for mixing fabrics in perfect harmony. Within a few years, the Hartford collection became a complete menswear line, inspired by classics: Military coats cut from Savile Row tailors, fatigue pants borrowed from the US Navy, an
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old school shirt in faded oxford stripe, a Fair Isle sweater freshly recreated - all examples of classic styles that Hartford reinvented to become contemporary, stylish but never trendy. In 2000, Yves launched a vintage-inspired beachwear collection, a womens line, and a children’s collection. Today, Hartford is available in 11 Hartford boutiques in France as well as in the best department stores and in hundreds of high-end, contemporary shops worldwide. The AW 12 collection is inspired by two themes: 1.Military Surplus: working classics such as the peacoat and the fishtail parka, oversized shirts and chinos, all made from robust materials and featuring authentic details; and Preppy Heritage: Ivy League style from the 60s and recreated for the new millenium. Favorites such as flannel, tweed, oxford and cashmere will have new modern silhouettes and new proportions.
FOOTWEAR FOR THE MODERN W ORLD ----------------
Heschung ---------------
From the creation of the first ski boots at the end of the 1940s to HESCHUNG’s consecration, when it became the official supplier to the French skiing team at the Grenoble Winter Olympics in 1968 (8 gold medals), an intimate relationship with the mountains has grown, which far exceeds the realm of sports alone and shows a true love of nature. The consumer is cultivated, perceiving the consistency and sincerity of a policy based on the unique expertise that the brand has inherited from its very beginnings: genuine reverse welt and Goodyear stitching. These techniques ensure that the Heschung footwear is perfectly watertight and extremely hard-wearing, something it would be inappropriate to sacrifice
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to the mere fads of fashion. In phase with the legitimate aspirations of its contemporaries, HESCHUNG positions itself as a purveyor of footwear that expresses a sensibility for the sober, deluxe and elegant product. To reconcile the aesthetics of former times and current preoccupations, the brand relies on its passion for noble materials, architecture, design and fashion. Very selectively, HESCHUNG picks up on and filters current trends in order to interpret them according to the brand’s values of authenticity. HESCHUNG footwear comes into being through this subtle compromise, which allies tradition and modernity, whilst demonstrating true respect for the environment. In this, it is very much footwear for the modern world.
PIONEERS OF AMERICAN OUTDOOR CL O THING ----------------
Holubar --------------Born in Colorado in 1947 to supply technical garments to professional climbers and the Alpine Rescue Team, Holubar built a reputation over the years with the general public as one of the most important North-Americanclothing brands for all outdoor activities and every-day city use. Holubar gained recognition thanks to a number of visionary technical and design innovations, inspiring many of the other important outdoor clothing brands in the United States, most notably through the use of extra light nylon with down filling in the early ‘50s or the adoption of 60/40 fabric, a blend of fine Egyptian cotton and nylon. The invention and evolution of the famous “Mountain parka”, one of the most popular garments ever in North America, has also to be ascribed to Holubar. Holubar continues to revive the historic styles from its archive of patterns and images, taken from old mail-order catalogs and Backpacker magazine ads. Along with
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these styles, deriving strictly from the archive, among which the Ridgemark 60/40 parka and the Sven waxed cotton parka should be mentioned, Holubar will present more jackets that are an evolution of classic Holubar styles but developed with an eye to urban uses and modern functionality: the Royal series of lighter-weight jackets with Holufill insulation that follow the success of the Royalight jacket launched for Winter 2011 completing the range with a RoyaLONG, a RoyalSHORTY and a RoyalVEST. „Function + Fashion“ was in fact the motto of Holubar when the brand decided to expand from the technical field to the recreational market, as stated in an old press advertisment of the early 70s Essential part of the collection are the continuing styles like the 60/40 Parka and the Mountain Parka, the Winter version of the jacket worn by Robert De Niro in Michael Cimino’s “Deer Hunter”.
ENGLISH CL OTHING ----------------
John Partridge ---------------
For nearly 50 years John Partridge has thought differently about English Country Clothing. Practical needs, always fashionable, led by design. John Partridge, today as always, continue to make clothing which is practical, quirky and English. They still use long staple, two-ply Egyptian cotton to make their waxed jackets and coats. The fabric produces a uniquely individual look. This technical part of the collection is very accomplished and the wax jackets fit together
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well with advanced fabrics designed into the DNA of their styling. Highlights for Autumn/Winter 2012 are John Partridge’s traditional wax, tweed and quilt fabrics but also in exciting new materials, as well as new definitions of the classic lines. Feted for innovative use of traditional materials and craftsmanship in the 1960’s, the brand continues to develop iconic garments such and is an established brand in the British heritage clothing scene.
HANDCRAFTED IN L OS ANGELES ----------------
Johnson Motors, Inc. ---------------
In 1938 two entrepreneurs came together to start a Californian distribution company of the finest British and American motorcycles and motorcycle clothing, delivering them to a new wanderlust-starved American teenager. That company would be called Johnson Motors. Through racing their motorcycles in the barren deserts of Death Valley and the dry lakes of El Mirage, they pitted themselves against nature in the true American tradition of “All or nothing, death or glory” in jeans, a t-shirt and leather jacket. Johnson Motors clothing is built on that same ethos, that same enduring spirit of those pioneers of utility clothing. Johnson Motors is a small company, in the cottage-industry style, untouched by
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corporate decision making. They simply make what they love, for the discerning wearer. Using only the finest American yarns and denim, they struggle above all else to keep age-old traditions of excellence alive in the heart of downtown Los Angeles, having truly earned the right to bear the mark “Made in USA”. This season Johnson Motors is proud to debut their long-awaited denim line, offering a range of traditional and slim fit selvedge jeans. They make blue jeans, pure and simple, in which you will have to earn the holes and marks that will tell your story and capture your memories. Johnson Motors Jeans. Hard wearing, tough and durable… Made the way you remember them.
NEW CLASSICS ----------------
K.O.I - Kings of Indigo ---------------
Kings Of Indigo’ or just K.O.I, was launched for SS ’12 and now introduces its AW collection. Inspiration for the brand is original American denim wear, the authentic jeans. K.O.I takes all-time favorite styles in both wash and fit, mixes them with a Japanese eye for detail and then develops them according to modern ways of green production: K.O.I creates New Classics. The look might be timeless, the production process is very 2012. Focusing on sustainable denim K.O.I produces ‘every garment with a conscience’ by launching a Triple-R concept: RecycleRepair-Reuse. Using recycled material simply saves resources and the fact that K.O.I offers a repair kit for your
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damaged jeans helps you enjoy them longer. Then when you’re ready for a fresh pair, you can leave your oldies and the Kings will reuse them for one of their new collections. In this new fall collection K.O.I has developed a bunch of new denim fabrics such as stretch denim with recycled cotton in the weft and recycled black denim in several washes. A fresh look, created with a clean production process. The denim offer is completed with a small selection of vegetable tanned leather belts, iPhone covers and good old fashioned key rings in natural and indigo, washed and unwashed, just like the jeans.
LET IT RAIN! ----------------
K-Way ---------------
The K-Way® brand was created in Paris in 1965. On a rainy day, clothes retailer Léon-Claude Duhamel observed as people rushed by in soaking wet clothes, with uncomfortable umbrellas in their hands. And he had an insight: creating a waterproof object that could be carried all times, but which was neither an umbrella nor a raincoat. Therefore a revolutionary jacket was born: lightweight, comfortable and completely waterproof, that could be folded in a small hip bag. This product was soon launched on the market and proved to be successful from the beginning: in the first year, 250,000 pieces were sold. In the 1970s, numerous partnerships between K-Way® and various ski teams
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took place. In 1990 the brand was purchased by Superga and in 1993 it was transferred to So.PA.F. merchant bank. In 1999, it was acquired by Milan-based Multimoda Network. In February 2004 K-Way® was included in the BasicNet Group s brand portfolio. K-Way® has reached such a popularity that today it can be defined as one of the few very well-known and legally recognised brands, included as an entry in the Italian dictionary. The K-Way® key words are coloured, technological, functional, classic, contemporary. K-Way® co-brandings include: Marc Jacobs, Kristina Ti, Walt Disney, Cerutti, Corso Como, Elio Fiorucci, Limoland.
ORIGIN AL GERMAN WATCHMAKING ----------------
LACO ---------------
In the German city of Pforzheim, on the edge of the beautiful Black Forest, the LACO watch manufactory is situated, looking back on a history of nearly 90 years. In these years, the company has always met the demands of the continuous changes it was confronted with. New designs and models are constantly developed in the LACO watch manufactory, such as the Marine_44 crème with the mechanical manual winding UNITAS 6497 and a casing width of 44 mm. Typical trait of these Marine watches: the subsidiary second. All classic watches to be found in the LACO collection are handmade by master watchmakers employing highest precision, with quality and a clear design always in the focus of the
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manufacturing process. The world of watches can also not be imagined without the unmistakable design of the aviator watches, originated in the 1940s. LACO aviator watches with the A and B types of construction clock faces where and still are reliable partners. In the construction of the original LACO aviator watches, special techniques are employed that are exclusive to LACO. Therefore, the current aviator watch collection still looks exactly like the original from the 1940s. Meeting the technical challenges and those of the increasingly evolving market is not only self-evident for the LACO team – they are excited and glad to be able to lead LACO into the future of watch manufacturing.
FOR US, AND PEOPLE WE KNO W. ----------------
Levi’s® Made & Crafted™ ---------------
Exceptional Levi’s® product using the best tools and technology available today.
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it all started here. ----------------
Levi’s® Vintage Clothing ---------------
Levi’s® authentic, dedicated American faithfully
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Vintage Clothing is an comprehensive assortment to capture the spirit of workwear. Each garment reproduces the fit, fabrics
and characteristics of the period. The history of Levi’s® is kept alive through Levi’s® Vintage Clothing by staying true to those garments kept in the Levi’s® archive dating back to the 1880’s.
THE FUTURE OF TRADITION ----------------
Ludwig Reiter ---------------
The Ludwig Reiter shoe manufactory was founded in Vienna in 1885 as a shoemaker’s workshop and is still run by the family, today in its fourth generation. Worldwide, Ludwig Reiter is one of the few remaining shoe manufactories to produce according to the traditional Goodyear welting method. The traditional welted shoes are made by hand. Today Ludwig Reiter is also wellknown for its high quality sport and ladies shoes as well as accessories, com-
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bining the experience and tradition of fine craftsmanship with contemporary requirements and style, resulting in the company’s vision statement “The Future of Tradition”. With designs such as the “Trainer”, the “Bowling” or the most prized creation, the legendary “Maronibrater”, Ludwig Reiter became an international fashion pioneer that has initialized cooperations with designers such as Helmut Lang, Wolfgang Joop, Paul Smith and Werner Baldessarini.
MODERN, INDEPENDENT AND RESOL UTELY SCOTTISH ----------------
Lyle & Scott ---------------
Modern, independent and resolutely Scottish, Lyle & Scott is a brand whose iconic Eagle acts as a symbol for both quality and exclusivity. Established in 1874, Lyle & Scott’s rich history and long-term experience come together with a contemporary aesthetic to offer originality, authenticity and a refusal to compromise. The Vintage Collection for AW 12 continues with the long established counter-culture spirit of Lyle & Scott with a diverse mixture of the bold youthful, Vintage style mixed with a
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bohemian free-willed look with added elements of ‘Into the Wild’ outdoor styling. The range has an eclectic, yet stylish and directional feel to it with surplus inspired pieces, twisted classics such as flecked chambrays, chainstitch stripe jerseys and cable/jacquard knit mixes. Driven by a single-minded sense of purpose and integrity and supported by the highest levels of expertise, quality and know-how, Lyle & Scott continues to be a wardrobe stable for those who strive for a bold confident approach.
The B avarian original ----------------
Meindl ---------------
With a history of more than 300 years, Meindl produces mens and womens leatherwear collections and outdoor shoes in Kirchanschรถring, a small borough in the Bavarian province of Traunstein. The Meindl signature pieces are the traditional Bavarian short leather pants and rough jackets made of leather and lambskin, first tailored by Lukas Meindl in 1935. Elaborately manufactured and artfully embroidered, the high-quality Meindl leather pants and garments are made of the best buckskin and with perfected craftsmanship, providing the best possible wearing comfort. The Meindl style is inspired by the life in
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the Alps, and Meindl products convey this characteristic lifestyle throughout the world. The unrestricted Meindl strive for best quality materials and timeless design, lasting for over three centuries now, continues to pay off: today, nearly 500 workers are producing Meindl outdoor boots and leatherwear, always respecting the Meindl tradition of craftsmanship and dedication to quality and service. Notwithstanding the traditional attitude, increasing attention is paid to environmental aspects such as the recyclability of the manufactured materials. Meindl: a true Bavarian original keeping up with the times.
SOLVING CARRY NEEDS ----------------
Millican ---------------
Keswick, Lake District National Park, England, 1903. Cycle camper, rock climber and true eccentric Millican Dalton trades life as a London insurance clerk for wild adventures in the great outdoors. Way ahead of his time, this self-styled “Professor of Adventure” lived a life of simplicity and self-sufficiency, in a cave. Millican salvaged old Jaeger blankets, moleskin fabrics, cords, denim, canvas and leather to make his own clothes, rucksacks, tents and sleeping bags. A local legend was born. Keswick, Lake District National Park, England, 2008. Inspired by Millican Dalton’s values, Millican the company creates its first travel and outdoor bag collection. Millican’s tight 2012 collec-
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tion is based on proven utility shapes, with modern functionality for the contemporary traveller and largely made from sustainable materials - organic canvas, recycled polyester, vegetable tanned leather and Lakeland wool. James the Duffle, Bob the Holdall and a new range of Felt Wool accessories join the main collection of rucksacks, shoulder bags and overnighters. For AW12, Millican has partnered with British clothing brand Universal Works to create a new collaborative collection of travel bags. Sharing Millican’s passion for clean lines, simple details and functionality, Universal Works brings their speciality of well-cut and craftsman-made menswear to Millican’s organic canvas bags.
W ORKS OF ART ----------------
n.d.c. made by hand ---------------
It has been just over 10 years since n.d.c. made by hand was created by Enrique Corbi & Arnaud Zannier- two friends passionate about shoes. The brand name n.d.c. – nom de code/code name – reflects their conviction that the strength of the brand is the product itself, where simplicity, quality, originality and constructional know-how are king. Not interested in following the ever-changing whims of fashion, they believe in style, in class, in strong personality, in understated grace, in subtle humour, in tradition and evolution, in fusion and harmony, but above all, in individuality. In 2001, after working for over 10 years in the shoe business, they felt that it was time to break free of the corporate machine and create their own story. They had seen a gap in the market for the kind of shoes that they wanted to wear. Without restrictions to creativity or budget, they brought the
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best leathers from Tuscany to the finest artisans in Europe and created shoes for people like them who are in pursuit of authenticity and understated individualism. Since then they have been developing their repertoire of unique styles with comfortable lasts, interesting constructions and finishing techniques that include top-secret concoctions of natural waxes and oils. n.d.c. is now available in over 350 of the world’s finest boutiques, including their own flagship stores in Brussels and Paris. To Enrique and Arnaud, a good shoe is a work of art. The leather, the craftsmanship… good shoes are made by good people who are passionate about what they do despite profit. They are still independent in controlling their business and creating their product from a to z which makes sense for a brand who’s priority and ultimate objective is the product itself.
THE EVOL UTION PROCESS ----------------
Natural Selection Denim ---------------
Natural Selection Denim was founded in 2009 with the aim to create a British denim brand, dedicated to delivering authentic workmanship of the highest standard. Natural Selection Denim focuses on the evolution process of a raw jean as it ages, using the finest selvedge and non-selvedge denim. Natural Selection Denim’s AW12 collection reflects on the brand’s origins
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with a focus on the evolution of its denim, alongside a capsule collection of upper apparel. A new offering of inventive washes; The Chowa, Otaku & Garage, to name a few, available in the classic fits: the ‘Smith Straight’ & ‘Smith Narrow’. AW12 will see Natural Selection Denim embark upon its first product collaboration, with American heritage brand Filson.
NIGEL CABOURN LOGO
SCO TT‘S LAST EXPEDITION ----------------
Nigel Cabourn ---------------
Nigel Cabourn, a true outerwear specialist, is driven by a long standing passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details. His vintage archive of over 4,000 pieces is his inspiration: each collection has a real story, and a sense of history underpinned by the highest level of quality. On January 18th 1912, Captain Robert Falcon Scott and four accompanying explorers reached the South Pole, becoming the first British explorers to achieve this, enduring along the way -40°c temperatures and crippling winds. The Nigel Cabourn Authentic Winter 2012 Collection, produced in the United Kingdom with British fabrics where possible, is inspired by this year‘s
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100th Anniversary of this historic event. Although all five explorers perished due to extreme weather conditions, their courage and persistence was inspiration to dedicate the collection of Nigel Cabourn Authentic Winter 2012 clothing to this incredible historic achievement. LIMITED EDITION 2: This is Nigel Cabourns Authentic Limited Edition 2 which follows the success of Limited Edition 1, The Ascent Of Cabourn in 2003. The collection consists of 12 pieces produced in about 100 pieces each on the outerwear and 300 pieces on the accessories. Each garment has its individual sequenced number to show the authenticity of the Limited Edition collection.
THE PASSION FOR DENIM ----------------
Nudie Jeans co ---------------
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The Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans, started in 2001, is not interested in short-term trends. Moreover, they are continuously striving for the evolvement of their design and production, and express their passion for denim. The Nudie Jeans Dry Selvage is a special concept with the best selvage denim from Japan, Italy and Turkey, selected high quality denim blended with cashmere, hemp and organic cotton. This line is the core and heart of the Nudie Jeans brand, made for all lovers of Nudie Jeans and dry denims, for all those impassioned fans who understand and embrace the passion for denim. As a distinctive feature, all dry selvage jeans have the selvage edge coin pockets and silver trims. THE BACKBONE CONCEPT dovetails perfectly with Nudie Jeans’ dry denims in terms of simplicity and sustainability. Quite simply, this is everyday clothing that fits perfectly with dry or worn jeans. For spring 2012 deliv-
eries, all Backbone garments will be made from 100% Fairtrade certified organic cotton. Further on, Nudie Jeans’ Backbone concept is a part of a textile pilot project initiated by Fairtrade International. This means that every step from the organic cotton growing and harvesting, through ginning, spinning, knitting, cutting and sewing to the final manufactured product is part of this project which aims to investigate how Fairtrade elements can be added for textile workers and not only for cotton farmers. This project has been made possible by a unique co-operation between Fairtrade, Fair Wear Foundation, Armstrong Knitting Mills and Nudie Jeans. The goal is to increase social compliance through third party verification not only on farming level but also along the full chain of production. The project will be evaluated in 2012 to see if Fairtrade standards for textiles can be developed.
CASUAL T O THE CORE ----------------
OneTrueSaxon --------------For more than a decade now, deep in the heart of Mercia, England, ONETrueSaxon have been producing casual clothing, footwear and general paraphernalia for discerning gents everywhere. Obsessed with style as opposed to fashion, the brand has become synonymous with quality, integrity, honesty and a good dose of British humour. Pride in their craft is central, and sticking strictly to the principles of “Modern Manners and Casual Etiquette” has and will always be key. AW12 is a celebration of growing up in Mercia: casual apparel and footwear with all the detailing you’d expect to find in a traditional tailored product.This season, inspiration is drawn from fishing the canals, rivers and lakes of Mercia, places like The Anchor, The Trent and Seeswood Pool, places where you were as likely to catch a cold as you were to land a Bream worth bragging about. Places where your kit needs to do the job. Therefore, ONETrueSaxon
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once again enlisted the services of the finest craftsmen of Middle England to realise their MADE in Gt.BRITAIN outerwear. Jacketing that will service outdoor manoeuvres as well as being smart enough for the evening celebration of “who caught nowt again?!” Waxed cottons feature heavily as well as the introduction of Thorn Proof Tweeds this season. The main range is again “Casual to the Core”. A strong denim offering is complimented by shirting and overshirting, fisherman knits and footwear both formal and casual. They have also added to their arsenal by introducing an accessories range, luggage, headwear and small leather goods, all the stuff the ‘modernist sartorial gent’ requires for the rigours of the modern world. You need to make choices in life: are you someone who’s interested in fashion or someone who’s interested in clothing. The chaps at ONETrueSaxon, they tread their own path. Tight lines all the way.
NEW GENT REVIVAL ----------------
Pantherella --------------AW 12 encapsulates Pantherella’s expertise, quality and heritage with stylish classic designs and exquisite yarns. City Business is not only part of Pantherella’s DNA but it’s an essential look for the AW12, focusing on yarns and textures, designing styles which perfectly compliment the well heeled city gent including Birdseye, Pip, Tartan and Stripes in the finest Merino wool yarns in Graphite, Sepia, Greengage, Kiwi, Damsons and of course traditional blacks. This season, the City Business collection includes the distinguished Vintage range, embracing British classic shapes and patterns in Old navy, Bold charcoal, strong dark greys mixed with light camels, rich taupe’s and deep conker, whilst the Retro Heritage designs have taken the ‘vintage era’ and evolved them into a modern iconic collection. For AW12, Pantherella has taken urban modern shapes such as checks, diamonds, stripes and florals and combining
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a contemporary retro ‘Shoreditch’ edge in Buttercup, Heather, Purple, Sweet Pea and Petrol Blues. City Business weekender offers Marl Boot socks, bright’s and autumnal colours, complimentary stripes and stitchy texture. For the ultimate weekend luxury, the Pantherella Cotton Cashmere in Terracotta, Navy, Khaki, Petrols and light greys offers the hardest working business feet a well deserved treat. Along with the leisure weight cashmere in Birdseye and Fairisle styles Creating designs for our distinguished customers, the Pantherella Mature Prep collection highlights the key looks of the season but moulds them into the right balance of design and function for the Pantherella customer. The Mature Prep collections showcases classically strong block colours of Royal Red, Sweet Pea, Deep Turquoise, Charcoal, Navy and Black and argyles of Dark Olive Mix, Dark Camel and Navy.
FOR LIFE IN THE OPEN. ----------------
Penfield ---------------
Penfield was established in 1975 in Massachusetts and has built a reputation for making the highest quality downfilled jackets and outerwear. Penfield garments are designed to stand up to the demands of the New England climate, yet are equally at home sheltering you from the storm, anywhere wind blows or rain falls! These garments are made by people who know and love the outdoors, and
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Penfield is always committed to bringing you the best of fashion, function, practicality and durability in every design they manufacture. Penfield works constantly to improve and develop new fabric and garment innovations to keep you warm and comfortable in the most varied and extreme conditions. Whatever the situation calls for, there is a perfect Penfield for every need.
FOR GL OB AL NOMADS ----------------
Preventi ---------------
Preventi is a community of “great people with better ideas”. Inspired by contemporary craftsmanship, the Spanish Preventi brand produces a mix of everyday accessories designed for genuine people who love fashion and to play with it. Preventi is a tribute to the cult fashion. Nearly all of the models are natural colour leather shoes, “tinto in capo” with a natural peened leather sole, machine washed, naturally dried and hand finished, with Goodyear stitching. Sneakers and boots complete the line, giving this timeless brand a more urban and casual feel and touch. In 2009, Preventi launched “The Global Nomads Project”, a trip around cities throughout the world, meeting people who share Preventi’s way of working, travelling and dreaming, and a challenge: them personally and letting them choose
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their favourite pair from the collection. Felice Limosani (Digital Storyteller and creative director of Luisaviaroma), Peter Thonet (From the legendary German manufacturer Thonet furniture), Simon Jacomet (CEO of Zai Skis) or Mark Tungate (Freelance journalist) were the first to choose their favorite model, which since then bears their names printed on the sole. With a slow marketing and recommendation of its own Global Nomads, Preventi is present since then in boutiques like Luisaviaroma, Isetan Japan or Le Marché aux Puces in Madrid. After ten years of existence, Preventi launched the first collection The Donna in 2011: Inspired by, designed for her. With the slogan “In her shoes”, models like Elisabeth, Macbeth, Sofy, Celine, Taylor and Barbour have been designed for cosmopolite women all over the globe.
K RO N E
est.1984
Valverde classics ----------------
Primeboots --------------Valverde del Camino in Andalusia, Spain has been an old silver mining district for centuries already, its name derived from its green fields and its proximity to the „Silver Street“. Since the 19th century, the “banquilleros” of Valverde traditionally produce robust, resistant boots and shoes for hard work in the fields, the mountains or in the silver mine. In 1989, the company Valverdeña del Calzado S.L. created the Primeboots brand in Valverde. The Primeboots are still hand-crafted in the traditional Valverde style in two stages:
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first, the shaft, insole and leather welt are stitched together by the Goodyear seam. The second step in the production: welt and outsole are stitched together using the welt seam. This production process unites breathability and adaptation in a perfect fit. Mens and womens Primeboots come in BikerUrban, Engineer, Western, Ranch Work, and Mountain-Adventure lines. They all share the high-quality hand made manufacturing and the classic, timeless look that is typical for Primeboots.
BRUISED BUT NEVER BROKEN ----------------
Prps Japan ---------------
Prps, short for ‘Purpose’, was created in 2003 by Founder and Creative Director, Donwan Harrell, with the philosophy that authenticity is the first priority. Each item in the collection is conceived with a specific purpose and function in mind. The distressing and ageing process and signs of a well-used jean simply validates the richness and quality of that particular garment. ‘Breaking in’ a jean does not represent deterioration, but the contrary – it is what we strive to attain. It is the visual result we jean enthusiasts so admire – a jean which
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looks ‘bruised but never broken’. Prps uses African cotton combined with expert Japanese construction to create what we believe to be the finest product available. In 2011, Prps launched ‘Noir’, an exclusive collection of Japanese, often selvedge, denim washed with varying degrees of black dye and resin. This Noir technique is used to create a darker, more contemporary aesthetic and is available in 5 shades, from overdyed pure black to the faintest hint of black worked into a vintage blue jean selvedge jean.
TREAT EM ROUGH ----------------
Prps Goods & Co. ---------------
Prps Goods & Co. is designed and crafted with unparalleled quality. While each garment is inspired by authentic vintage Americana, each collection will offer a complete brand experience that speaks to the modern man’s desire for functional, purposeful and innovative clothing. Accessible and affordable, Goods & Co. captures the essence of Prps without sacrificing the ethos of the brand. In keeping with the company’s history, each seasonal offering will be built around a strong foundation
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of denim and paired with meticulously assembled separates making Prps Goods & Co. one of the most sought after brands in the market. Constructed from exquisite Japanese pieced goods and finished with elaborate detailing, as all Prps garments are, Goods & Co. remains true to the brand’s legacy. The collection encompasses an early American outdoor lifestyle and is an aesthetic reflection of the personality behind the brand.
A ustralian boots since 1932 ----------------
R.M. Williams ---------------
Born in 1908 on a farm in South Australia, Reginald Murray Williams crossed the Australian central western deserts while working as a camel boy for a missionary. During their trips, he learned valuable bush lore and survival skills from the aboriginal people and stockman skills from the stockmen of the desert fringe cattle stations. But it was meeting an itinerant saddler named Dollar Mick, who taught him the skills in leather working and crafting, that marked the true beginning of young R.M. Williams’ life’s work. He set up his first small shoe factory in 1932, and over the following decades, the company grew rapidly, diversifying, apart from boots, into bush saddlery, equipment, moleskins, jeans and bush shirts: R.M. Williams became the bush
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outfitter, supplying everything essential to Australian life. The first R.M. Williams stores opened in 1978. Today, the oil-impregnated riding, work and elastic boots are the backbone of the R.M. Williams business. For theirboots, only the best leathers are used, such as cowhide, “willow” (chrome tanned oxhide), yearling, and suede leather, just to name a few. Undergoing 80 handheld processes, each R.M. Williams boot is comfortable, supple, and easily moulds to the foot. These high-quality, strong and durable boots feature welt soles with 21 defined features, and vegetable-tanned leather insoles. The uppers of the R.M. Williams boots are made from only one piece of leather, thereby producing the typical clean and classic lines.
ESPRIT DE FINESSE ----------------
REDUX ---------------
Redux was launched by Italian designer Dario Marangon, and is based on his passion for denim and the workwear tradition. The idea of Redux arose from the need to perpetuate the unique characteristics of jeans from the material to the production. The word Redux means to restore or to return. Redux realizes this “esprit de finesse� (intuition) and a unique aesthetic vision: the love for the basic and the simplicity of creating a new and fresh philosophy. Redux have a special interest in denim, the only material in the world that
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moulds to the shape of your body with use and the passage of time. In the production, Redux is guided by an ethic of respect for nature. Quality, simplicity and continuity lie at the heart of these beautiful jeans. The styles are inspired by the tradition of workwear and the classic five pockets; inspiration is also drawn from their archive of original vintage clothing. Redux are jeans in limited production, and only for men: genuine quality products which will stand the test of time.
American Classics Timeless quality and craftsmanship ----------------
Red Wing Shoes ---------------
Red Wing’s Heritage Work Collection is originally made to withstand the rigors of hard work and the brutality of harsh weather; this footwear earned its name on the farms and in the prairies of America’s heartland. Committed to the basic principles of style, quality, craftsmanship and comfort, Red Wing Shoes continues to stay true to the original idea of Charles Beckman who established the brand in 1905. As a work-boot brand, it prospered for over a century and today is sold in over 100 countries around the globe. The Red Wing product lines range from functional boots that have been the staple of skilled workers for the past century, to the Heritage Collection with
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footwear based on classic American styles. Red Wing Shoe Company – still located in Red Wing, Minnesota – offers a unique blend of quality, tradition and American style. Red Wing’s leather is crafted in their 140 years old tannery, located 1 mile down the road from the factory in Red Wing Minnesota. The leather possesses a natural beauty and unmatched durability. This Fall, among others Red Wing introduces a classic Brogue Round Toe – once originated as a hunter’s boot – today well suited as a gentlemen’s style, a classic Pecos boot honoring one of Red Wing’s most loyal shoemakers and a collaboration with British designer Nigel Cabourn.
NO FUTURE WITHOUT A REAL HIST ORY ----------------
Roy Roger‘s Rugged ---------------
Manifatture 7 Bell S.p.A., born in 1949, is the first Italian blue jeans manu‑ facturer. The first pieces were work garments crafted with a very resistant denim purchased from the American Cone Mills, the first denim producer in the world. A long-term cooperation lasting till today. The original Roy Roger’s jeans introduced some features that never changed over the years: zippers on back pockets (patented and registered since 1950) to make them safer at work, for the pocket money a coin pocket on the front and the black triangular label on back pockets. Through decades of history the brand maintained its originality and preserved a high quality in raw materials, exclusively American, Japanese and European denims, with a constant
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research on special washings, on different lines for woman and man strictly hand-made in Italy. RUGGED is the vintage collection of Roy Roger’s inspired by the American world of the 40-50’s and by the vintage clothing of the private historical archive. This new denim collection is based on the search of the “new vintage”. In concurrence with the construction of the new Roy Roger’s head offices, the historical brand went back to the origin of its jeans as worker pant dressing the builders with the historical 5-pockets raw denim. Six months of incessant and extreme use transformed it in an authentic vintage without using any industrial process. The final result inspired this collection and the future ones.
NÉ DE LA MER ----------------
Saint James ---------------
Around 1850, Saint-James, a commune in the French Lower Normandy located 20 km from Mont Saint-Michel, experienced a real industrial adventure: the Legallais family started to spin and dye locally produced wool. Mr Legallais, who was also the Mayor of Saint James then transformed a workshop into a real industry. When Mr Julien BONTE took over the company in 1950, the traditional activity was given up to concentrate on the manufacture of cardigans and sweaters, including the famous «Real Breton Fisherman’s Sweaters» knitted in pure wool. With such thick and tight knitwear, they were considered almost waterproof... Knitted very close to the body, this sweater becomes «the seafarers’ second skin». Saint James became famous for this „genuine nautical Breton sweater», now worn by
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sailors, yachtsmen, tourists and the fashion-conscious alike. Today, the Saint James «seashore lines» in either pure wool, or pure cotton appeal to a greater and more diversified customer base. The mens, ladies and childrens collections consist of a range of classic and fashion knitwear, combined with a selection of T-shirts, in both plain and striped styles. In addition to that, Saint James offers co-ordinated blouses, casual shirts, slacks, jeans, jackets and skirts. The Saint James range also includes knitted hats and scarves, as well as rainwear and duffle coats, with a very strong nautical theme prevailing. These days, the Saint James company is acknowledged as a leading French manufacturer of quality garments: a model for authenticity and French tradition.
TRADITION AL STYLE, MODERN FABRICS ----------------
Salvatore Piccolo ---------------
The Autumn/Winter2012 collection of Salvatore Piccolo is divided into several smaller sections that differ in their type of product : 1) SPECIAL WHITE , proposed also in the last two seasons, this time including the new White Patchwork shirt; the 2) DENIM section : with some edging fabrics and some Japanese fabrics; 3) CANVAS : proposed last season too but expanded with other exclusive fabrics of different type of textures ; 4) the RESEARCHED LINE which includes double-face
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fabrics, exclusive oxford fabrics with a flannel touch and over shirts in plain felted wool and cotton fabrics ; and 5) the VINTAGE LINE which includes Scottish tartan shirts in pure cotton. Furthermore, Salvatore offers a series of classic and vintage scarves and ties matching these beautiful shirts. Like the last Salvatore Piccolo collection, AW 12 is again inspired by the old traditional style but mixed with modern and sophisticated fabrics.
REDEFINED TRADITION ----------------
Schiesser Revival ---------------
The unique and exclusive Schiesser Revival collection is an eloquent testimony to Schiesser’s long and rich tradition. Indeed, Schiesser Revival is the epitome of quality and craftsmanship, blended with natural elegance, eternal beauty and contemporary aesthetics. Schiesser’s inspired fashions redefine “tradition”, proving that firmly established values and quality have their place in the 21st century. Schiesser Revival – more than a fleeting impression. The AW 12 collection conveys a truly unique fashion statement in combining traditional values, quality and pioneering modernism. The women’s and men’s collections embrace zeitgeist and smartness in both the styles and high-
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trend colours selected for this exquisite range. The new AW12 product line is complemented by stylish loungewear and various high-fashion outerwear styles featuring exclusive piece-dyed or garment-washed jersey fabrics in a superb colour range. Underwear, shirts, blouses, cardigans and sophisticated nightwear are the must-haves of the women’s collection. Among the highlights in the men’s collection are cardigans, shirts, pullovers, long johns and – as a new addition to the range – exquisite pyjamas. The Schiesser Revival collection has once again clearly succeeded in transposing the charisma and purism associated with the Schiesser name.
American icon ----------------
Schott N.Y.C. ---------------
Nearly a century ago in 1913, back when the world was still in black and white and sounded kinda tinny, two brothers in a little shop on New York’s Lower East Side started a simple jacket company that would become an icon of American culture. Their mantra was simple: forget the trends, ignore fickle fashions, just make the best damn product possible. The next hundred years proved to be a doozy, and as America marched on, through two World Wars, the rise of cinema, and birth of Rock n’ Roll, America did so wearing Schott, with quality, individuality and innovation infused in every jacket. Schott NYC’s 2012 collection harks
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back to a simpler time when deals were done with a handshake and a smile. Motorcycle jackets have been treated with an aging process that treats both the leather and the entire jacket once it is constructed to give it a worn-in look and feel, bypassing years of wear and tear required for achieving that perfect appearance. Military bomber jackets, duffle coats and peacoats have all been carefully selected from Schott’s extensive archives. What makes a Schott jacket isn’t just a cut or style that was once popular some decades ago, it’s the jacket’s own heritage, a character that only comes from years of refinement and a lifetime of ingenuity.
handmade in germany since 189 6 ----------------
Seil Marschall ---------------
For over a century already, Seil Marschall produces finest quality ropes, extending their range to outdoor clothing, shoes and accessories. Takingpride in its hand made quality, the small company from Bad Waldsee, Germany claims that their best machines are still their hands. Seil Marschall invests a lot of time in the production, with quality and sustainability as the main principles. Their outdoor clothing for hunting, leisure and adventure is made of loden from finest natural materials: wool or cashmere, Swiss cotton poplin or waxed cotton. In the production of the hand-sewn moccasins and outdoor boots, the Seil Marschall shoe manufacture uses
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strictly vegetal tanned leather, real lambskin, and wool felt. The moccasins are completely lined with real lamb fur and have a natural crepe sole. Every stitch is hand sewn without any compromises regarding quality and comfort. This principle also applies to the bags, produced in the Seil Marschall saddlery: only linen from the best wea‑ ving mills, vegetal tanned leather, wool felt pads and brazen metal fittings are used. This exceptional craftsmanship quality cannot be produced in great quantities due to its time consuming dedication to detail, making the Seil Marschall products exclusive and valuable: Timeless products for a lifelong use, not for waste.
BOLD AND BEA UTIFUL ----------------
Sorel --------------Originally founded by William H. Kaufman Inc. in Kitchener, Canada, Sorel has long been associated with the development of durable, comfortable, cold-weather footwear. Launched in 1962, the Sorel line was the first to combine leather uppers, handcrafted vulcanized rubber shells and removable felt liners with iconic styles such as the Caribou and Pac boots. For its 50th anniversary, Sorel will feature two limited editions of the original Caribou and Sentry boots. Born from the desire to make a boot that would deliver explorers comfortably into the beauty of the great unknown, SOREL has been creating footwear for the fearless since 1962: fashionably bold, unapologetically daring and beautifully brave. Luxurious materials and flawless construction are brought to life by designs that challenge, invigorate and surprise. From sweet sneakers for sultry summer days to boots that turn heads while taking on
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the tundra, SOREL inspires fashion-forward feet for every season. In addition to its iconic styles, SOREL developed two new collections for fall 12: the Dwell and New Icons collections. DWELL: Meet the softer side of SOREL. The Dwell collection is all about creating a blissful retreat for feet, a place to escape the rigors of everyday life. Supple leathers, cozy wool and soft felt create a plush cocoon of warmth. Comfortable style, casual vibe at its best. NEW ICONS: The New Icons are pieces of the Sorel past taken into a new direction with trend forward designs and a fearless spirit. Sorel’s rich DNA dialed up with a modern aesthetic. Sleek and captivating silhouettes, confident attitude and a modern flair that’s equal parts bold and beautiful. The New Icons are riding inspired boots, sleek and stylish with premium full-grain leather upper, spat overlay, stacked leather heel on rubber shell, and adorned with buckles.
Expedition Collection ----------------
Stetson ---------------
In 1865, John B. Stetson fashioned the hat that would become the symbol of American independence, individuality, integrity and strength. Today everything that carries the Stetson brand, from authentic Westernwear to rugged Actionwear to contemporary Streetwear and timeless classics, stays true to these American values: Make things right and the best they can be. Over 145 years later, Stetson is proud to have maintained a focus on lasting style and legendary quality. This season Stetson invites you to join an Arctic dog sledding expedition! The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection is inspired by the spirit of adventure, the bond between man & man s best friend , and the untamable great outdoors. Along with some notable new styles in authentic Woolrich® checks and organic Etaproof® all-weather cotton fabrics, Stetson s range of premium-quality hats
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& caps will keep you warm, protected, and fashionable on your journey. No Arctic expedition would be complete without the proper trapper hat. Stetson offers a range of these perfect cold-weather hats in multiple styles, color combinations, and qualities. Highlights of this season are the rugged “American Bison” leather trapper, the incredibly soft rex-rabbit lined trapper, and the smooth vintage goatskin bomber style. The winter collection has been expanded to include classic Fair Isles knits, chunky pearl-knits, vintage flannels, and our signature premium cashmere and cashmere-blend caps. All hats in this new theme collection come marked with a special dog sledding inspired pin, an expedition patch branding inside and a custom carabiner hang tag. Also the Stetson basics offer a variety of innovations.
FRENCH SAVOIR FAIRE ----------------
Stockman ---------------
Stockman is the French creator of busts, dummies and accessories stands with a tradition reaching back as far as 1867, when Fredric Stockman was the first to think it should be possible to standardize the shapes of the human body, and so he categorized the sizes in cloth: 8, 10, 12,‌ and more. Back then, at a time when only the rich had their tailors and dressmakers, Stockman was a precursor in believing in the burgeoning democratization of clothes and, together with his associate and designer Siegel, he started to manufacture busts and dummies to be
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used in the ready-to wear trade and by couturiers. Today, Stockman is the supplier of the most important fashion brands, with a worldwide reputation for producing the most beautiful busts and dummies. Most of the Stockman products, such as dressforms, mannequins, accessories stands, are handmade in Paris. This year, new products like new metal bases, new fabrics and new accessories stands are introduced, all of them representing the Stockman philosophy of French tradition, French savoir faire and French spirit.
JACKETS THAT LAST FOREVER ----------------
Ten ---------------
Ten c, The Emperors New Clothes, introduces the forever collection. The original fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen tells of looking beyond what you are told to see and to value what is truly there. The ability too see past the fashion media barrage is a new interpretation of the original fairy tale. Ten c. Seven pieces that wear no labels either inside or out. They ask to be loved for what they are. Pieces that last forever. These timeless and iconic jackets are created to live and age with you, and the incredible Japanese jersey will, with time, mould itself almost imperceptibly to you. It will become part of your life’s story like the dented wristwatch from
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when the Bungy broke and would have broken your arm had you not being wearing that watch. The tent that wears the scars of every event it has ever been to with you. That pair of jeans you just cannot throw away. They will become exclusively yours. Ten c believe that by applying the true values of craftsmanship and creating garments that are conceived to last all your life, they can in some way help, and this comes from the bible of real environmentalists, in the elimination of waste. They are talking about caring. And quality. Ten c is designed by Alessandro Pungetti and Paul Harvey and is made exclusively in Italy.
L O VE FOR QUALITY AND DESIGN ----------------
the last conspiracy ---------------
A shoe can be fashionable, but only when you wear it, it becomes stylish. In connection with your personality and your look, a new whole is created. A whole more sophisticated, more complete than the sum of its parts. That’s style. the last conspiracy was founded in 2010 in Copenhagen, Denmark, by the principle of being made to meet the highest standards of fine shoemaking. The brand is a joint venture of fine shoemakers and their friends, with more than 35 years of experience in
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producing handcrafted shoes.the last conspiracy creates simple yet sophisticated shoes, using specially selected leathers, and most of the shoes are either blake stitched, Norwegian Stitched or Goodyear-welted with triple-layered soles for ultimate comfort. Designed in Denmark and produced with pride in Portugal, the last conspiracy is a great unity of Scandinavian sense of design meeting the traditional Portuguese craft of high quality shoemaking: a very rare perspective on the world of shoe design.
LEGENDARY SKILLS ----------------
Tricker's --------------Tricker’s, founded in 1829 by master shoemaker Joseph Tricker, is one of the oldest family run shoe businesses in the UK. Today the fifth generation of his family still manages to apply the same traditional crafts in the production of the Tricker’s shoes. Originally coming from a background of boot making for army and country purposes, the boot production is still the backbone of the factory. Tricker’s holds the Royal warrant: “By Appointment To His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales Shoe Manufacturers”, and has since the 70s become popular among musicians as well, turning it into the boot maker for kings, pop- and punk stars alike. For over 180 years now, all Tricker’s shoes have been hand made in St. Michael’s Road in Northampton. Here, craftsmen apply their legendary skills to produce both hand-made and benchmade shoes which maintain a standard seldom equalled in the world of Good-
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year welted footwear, using only the best available materials, including calf upper leather and oak bark tanned soles to produce their boots, fine dress- and street footwear. The Tricker’s core principles of quality, innovation, durability, skill, style, adventure and success are stitched into every single pair of shoes, no matter if worn on the dance floor, in the Royal household, in the highlands, at festivals or in the saddle! R.E. Tricker’s is a craftsman‘s firm, feeling much obliged to manufacture sustainable products: no „synthetic vintage“ only the finest calfskins and cowhides secure the wonderful aging process of the Tricker’s products. For AW12, suedes, cordovans and oiled leathers are favourites, complemented by soles in contrasting colours. Coloured leather linings are a „must have“ for this urban shoe and boot collection. For girls and boys, Tricker’s offers round toecaps.
THE ESSENCE OF VINTAGE CRAFTMANSHIP ----------------
TST ---------------
TST Footwear is designed by the esteemed footwear designer Seisi Tanaka. The shoes incorporate the purity of both manufacturing and design philosophy of this Japanese shoemaker. The shoes have inspired many other designers over the years, as Tanaka captures the artisanal essence of vin‑ tage craftsmanship with superb uncompromising materials. His shoes feature horse leather on the upper, cow leather in the trims and soles, and cabretta leather in the insoles, finished with linen lining for the precise scientific behaviour of these
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natural components. Tanaka’s inspiration comes from his life experiences combined with his technical knowledge of shoe making. As a teenager, he completed a scholar‑ship studying golf at North Carolina University in the USA. He then returned to Japan at the age of twenty-four to work for his family shoe making business. Since branching out on his own, Tanaka has worked with leading basketball companies designing technical footwear, and has collaborated with fashion brands of the highest level.
HANDCRAFTED IN CAN ADA ----------------
Viberg Boot ---------------
Viberg was founded in 1931, during ‘The Great Depression’, when Swedish immigrant Edwin Viberg started making horse harnesses and other farming tools. During the Depression and ensuing decline in farming, Edwin learned the craft of shoe making, adapting his leather skills. Originally, Viberg supplied farm and construction workers with boots, along with army boots during the war. Glen Viberg, Ed‘s son, has been involved with the company since 1970, and it is now a 3rd generation, family owned business. Viberg uses two methods of boot construction, Nailed down, and Stitch down. Nailed down construction is used for logging and heavy work boots. It is one of the pioneers of boot making, a timeless method. Stitchdown construction is used on all of the Viberg street collection, and it allows for a more flexible and comfortable fit. Both types of con-
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struction are very durable and strong, allowing for years of use, with proper care and resoling of the sole. Viberg is one of the last boot companies who use all brass nails and tacks, which don’t allow the leather to rot when wet. The philosophy of Viberg originally and still is to make the strongest, long lasting boots with the best materials that can be sourced. To this day, Viberg remains one of the only shoe and boot makers in the world to use all brass nails and tacks throughout their shoes. This AW12 season, Viberg is launching a capsule clothing collection off of its 80 years heritage. A five piece, vintage- inspired collection, drawing on its origins during the Great Depression era and farm work wear. Included in this collection are new complementing leather colours for the boots. To make a Viberg Boot from start to finish, it takes 218 steps, all made by hand in Canada.
GLOBAL INC.
FINEST OUTDOOR GEAR ----------------
Wiggys ---------------
In 1995 in a local pub in NYC Johan chats with a former U.S. Air Force combat pilot who had been rescued from a river in a bailout mission in the Rocky Mountains on high altitude during a blizzard. According to him, the jacket he was wearing saved his life because of its insulation called Lamilite. This material is developed in Colorado by Wiggys Inc., a producer of outdoor garments and sleeping bags designed for extreme conditions. What sets Lamilite apart from other insulations is the fact that every fiber is silicone treated which gives the Lamilite two unique qualifications: first, the fibers are extremely water repellent which gives you an insulation that will keep you warm even if water penetrates its shell fabric. Second, the silicone treatment makes the Lamilite antistatic. The superior performance and quality of the Lamilite insulated Wiggy’s prod-
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ucts have been celebrated among both outdoor users and the U.S. Military and have made them the choice for the U.S. Air Force, the U.S. Navy, and the Alaska State Troopers for several years. The Wiggy’s sleeping bags are used as part of the Air Force and Navy survival kit, since they can be compressed to a minimum size but still regain their original loft. The pilot s story left a big impression on Johan and as a consequence he later launched the Wiggys Global Inc. project in 2007, producing a lifestyle collection of warm winter jackets based on the unique insulation. Johan s partner is Mr. Wigutow, the founder of Wiggy s Inc. and producer of Lamilite. The inspiration for the collection is drawn from the world where the insulation has been used before; the U.S. Military and as work wear in the cold temperatures on the North American continent.
FOR THE PERFECT MOMENT ----------------
windsor. ---------------
windsor. crafts tomorrow’s design for people who live today, for those who don’t need a mirror to see that they have arrived. The windsor. brand combines self-confidence with understatement, for those who appreciate quality and a contemporary style – the classical combined with a feeling for the times in which we live. The result: a distinctive and absolutely timeless look. For over a century, windsor has worked with the best designers, tailors and fabric suppliers, making it a premium brand for men and women. Having internalized the knowledge that apparel must not only be a visual sensation but also a sensuous pleasure,
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the windsor. collections captivate with the elegant ease of their premium Italian fabrics and their distinctive cuts, rounded off by confident tailoring perfection and craftsmanship. It is the windsor. philosophy not to be fashion, but style – a value, a principle that has always been far removed from ephemeral trends. The unmistakable character of the brand includes confident style, tradition and quality. windsor. is already well known throughout Europe, now continuing its worldwide expansion and widening their offer by adding new product groups. The windsor. journey has just begun!
A TRULY DEMOCRATIC HERITAGE ----------------
Wolsey ---------------
Inspired by an authentic heritage spanning over 250 years, Wolsey is a contemporary brand influenced by classic design. Established in 1755, Wolsey is the original Great British fashion brand, one with an impressive aesthetic to match its otherwise unrivalled credentials. Wolsey features two collections – the heritage inspired, detail focused and technically brilliant Wolsey collection, and the Wolsey 1755 collection, a premium line of soft tailoring and sharp apparel. Both ranges draw on Wolsey’s extensive archive, an abundance of garments that mirror modern British experiences, from military clothing to the foundations of contemporary sportswear. Wolsey was one of the early pioneers of the Industrial Revolution
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and has clothed some of Britain’s bravest and most inspirational men. These include arctic explorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott, Britain’s soldiers in World War I and II, Olympians and British royalty. Autumn/Winter 2012 sees the brand blend traditional British style with outdoor and military influences. A rich offering of heritage inspired classics in the Wolsey collection is partnered with a range of deconstructed tailoring separates in the 1755 collection, a light sportswear influence finished in a contrasting colour palette of muted lights and deep tones. Wolsey has re-invented British classics to craft a stand out collection, distinguishing it as a genuinely contemporary British heritage brand.
A Classic Revisited ----------------
Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection --------------In 1883, G.A. Krause founded the Hirth-Krause Company in Rockford, Michigan. Krause was a third generation leather tanner and boot maker who prided himself on creating finely tanned leathers which in turn created comfortable and durable footwear. Inspired by hard-working men of the time, the company would soon innovate the industry. Krause’s best selling model: the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe. The first of its kind, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe was created in a time when men were looking for authentic craftsmanship and footwear that would last. Crafted from a special tanning process using shell horsehide, the 1000 Mile Shoe offered superior comfort and durability. Advertised as comfortable enough to “give you 1,000 miles of wear,” the shoe became a wardrobe staple for men of the 20th century. The ideals and practices of Wolverine as a brand have remained the same since its inception. Paying homage
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to the company’s beginnings, the 1000 Mile Collection is based on original designs from the Wolverine archives. Composed of four key collections, the cornerstone Original collection including the 1000 Mile Boot, the Gentlemen Collection inspired by original workingman designs from the 1930s and 1940s, the Garrison Collection inspired by work and military boot design and the Gentry collection that showcases Wolverines history of creating high-end boots for the outdoorsmen, the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection continues Wolverine’s century-long heritage of providing comfort and durability. AW12 highlights include a collaboration with renowned outdoor brand Filson for a 6” and 8” boot. The new line also features the Courtland, a moctoe version of the Original 1000 Mile Boot with a rubber outsole pad, and the Watson, a cap-toe oxford. All styles feature Horween leather uppers and Good‑ year Welt construction.
ORIGINAL OUTDOOR CL O THING ----------------
Woolrich ---------------
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For FW12 Woolrich John Rich & Bros returns to the story of the founder, John Rich, an Englishman who came to America to make a new life and founded the Woolen Mill with traditional British methods. The company quickly evolved to meet the necessities of this pioneer environment, making goods for fur traders, train conductors, lumberjacks and carpenters. Any work that had to be done, Woolrich developed a product to keep those workers safe and warm, with pockets for their tools. This thread runs through the whole history of the brand to the Arctic Parka, created for the men working on the Alaskan pipeline. It has come full circle with the 2012 John Rich & Bros collection. Mens FW12 pre fall collection, “Makers and Tradesmen”, refers to companies like Woolrich, and people like John Rich, and to men performing skilled manual work, represented by items such as the archival “Conductor Vest” - a strong combination of tailored, traditional English clothing
with utilitarian workwear. Mens FW12, “Trappers and Traders”, focuses on cold weather pioneer activities in the North, where trapping was lucrative and trading goods for goods between Europeans and the native people resulted in the strong mix of cultures, with blankets and furs being the most valuable commodities of the time: a mix of “frontier” type of garments with more traditional tailored and functional, working garments in a more classic colour palette. Womens FW12 shows the interaction of European fabrics and fashion with the needs of pioneer American women in the 19th and early 20th century, playing with the combination of utilitarian elements and work garments mixed with super feminine/European fabrics and styles, with the “Trade and Handmade” line as a combination of traditional English elements and traditional native shapes in more classic and contrasting colours.
l.o .c.k. Labels of common Kin BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN see y ou in Summer 2012!
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www.aigle.com
THE BOYFRIEND BOOT
FOR THE REINTRODUCTION OF MAN INTO NATURE
NOTES ---------------
www.breadandbutter.com/lock ---------------