L.O.C.K. Book

B O O K ---------------

l.o .c.k.

Labels of common Kin BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN WINTER 2010

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WINTER 2010 ---------------

B O O K

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IMPRINT ---------------

PUBLISHER BREAD & butter GmbH Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany EDITORIAL OFFICE BREAD & butter GmbH Corporate Publishing Münzstraße 13 10178 Berlin, Germany Tel. +49 (0)30 400 44 0 Fax +49 (0)30 400 44 101 www.breadandbutter.com DISCLAIMER The L.O.C.K. Book is published by BREAD & butter GmbH, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions, in which the author or company is named, do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher.

Place of jurisdiction is Berlin, Germany.

COPYRIGHT All rights reserved by BREAD & butter GmbH. The copying of graphic design or information with regard to the use of texts fragments of texts or image material demands prior written consent from the publisher.

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CREATIVE DIRECTION Robert Dizdarevi´ c ART DIRECTION & ILLUSTRATION Katrin Friedmann Alexander Groth MANAGING EDITOR Jenny Boers PROOF READING Andreas Ljungström FINAL DRAWING Anja Decker PROJECT COORDINATION Urte Peter SUPPORT Franka Schuster ADVERTISING Jenny Boers PRODUCTION Kathleen Hiller

Images & Logotypes Delivered by and property of the respective L.O.C.K. brands.

PRINTING Druckhaus Schöneweide GmbH Ballinstraße 15 12359 Berlin, Germany

SPECIAL THANKS TO the team of pool magazine

CIRCULATION 10.000 copies

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CONTENT ---------------

WELCOME

by Karl-Heinz Müller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 The Jeanmaker Interview with Jason Denham

by Helmut Wolf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Emotional Design Interview with Don Norman

by Helmut Wolf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

L.O.C.K. Labels of Common Kin Winter 2010 brands: Alan Paine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Alejandro Ingelmo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 April 77. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Armor Lux. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Barbour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Blauer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Brooks England. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Buco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Canada Goose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Clarks Originals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Crust. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Dayton Boots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Delan/Latini/Moriano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 DENHAM the Jeanmaker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Dockers K-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Double-M . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 DUKES Finest Vintage Artisan. . . . . . . . . . 54 Edsor Kronen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Edwin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Evisu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Filson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

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Fred de la Bretonière. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Fred Perry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Gilded Age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Hell’s Kitchen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 HTC Hollywood Trading Company. . . . . . . . 72 Inis Meáin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Lee 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Lee The Archives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Levi’s ® Made & Crafted. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Levi’s ® Vintage Clothing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Lost Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Ludwig Reiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Lyle & Scott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Marithé + François Girbaud . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Master Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Ma.Strum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Meindl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Morrison/Howlin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 n.d.c. made by hand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Nudie Jeans Co.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 PACE Jeans. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Primeboots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Prps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Red Wing Shoes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 R.M. Williams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Schott NYC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Seil Marschall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Shabbies Amsterdam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Spiewak. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Stetson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Steven Alan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 T.K. Garment Supply. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Ten C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Velour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 windsor.men. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection. . . . . . . . . . . 134

The Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot ®

More than 127 years ago, Wolverine founderclearly G.A. Krause builtwork a company on a dream of don’t anymore.

Times of The concentration of cities towards creating finely crafted footwear using the best materials of the time. Wolverine is honoring crisis are generally also very creative the centre, parallelism of physical its heritage with a one-of-a-kind collection of boots and shoes crafted with the same in Collection the sense of thethe creative and virtual spaces, niche economies attention to detail found in the originals. Thetimes, 1000 Mile combines pillars ofpower ofand destruction.

Of course we have as antithesis to heritage “economic frenzy”, Wolverine’s – comfort, durability, function style. to differentiate here, because there are changes in consumer behaviour due many people who are not blessed with to demographic developments, a more creativity and who are now standing in liberal approach to fashion, the creafront of their shattered existence. tive scene’s neo-liberalism trap ... CitIn the creative scene however, certain ies and societies are in the process of current career plans might not work a great transformation - and for the anymore, but instead, the formerly most part, the outcome is still open says curbed, narrowly channelled creativity Friedrich von Borries, professor for can now unfold much more freely. We design theory at the University of Fine can also see this in fashion, where sudArts in Hamburg, who has spent many denly there is more tailoring, altering years researching the developments in and combining going on again... things architecture and urbanism and their are simply used more liberally than in relation to processes in economy and the previous times of prosperity. When everyday culture. In conversation with changes make room for freedom and Helmut Wolf, he explains why. the same old roads turn into dead-end streets, transformation processes are ---------------occurring.

Berlin for example is very experiH.W.: Dear Friedrich, to which exenced when it comes to change. This tent do you think that economically is why people here were not as shocked turbulent times have an effect on the by the economic changes. In fact, Bervitality and the attitude to life of city lin is permanently in an unstable situaresidents? tion, a seeking state - more so than cities like Paris, London and Milan, where F.v.B.: On the one hand, it certainly people have more difficulty adapting to causes a feeling of insecurity, which this indefiniteness. has negative effects. On the other hand, there is a positive side to such situations H.W.: Over half of the world’s populaas well - in the sense that this insecurition already lives in big cities, and this ties force people to face alternatives. is still an upward trend. In your opinWhat else is there? What is new? Inion, which effects will this increasing sofar, economically turbulent times concentration in urban areas have on lead to dynamization, greater variety, the structure of society in general? new experiments, since people have to try new things because the old ones

www.wol verine1000mile.com

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WELCOME

l.o .c.k.

Labels of common Kin ---------------

With this book, we are proud to present the authentic brands exhibiting at the L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin area at BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN in January 2010.

I am convinced that these brands are the representation of the “new luxury”: in my opinion, the dedication to highquality manufacturing is the luxury of the future.

Selection criteria for the brands

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presented in the L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin are the use of traditional methods of manufacturing, and, above all, the passion and love for detail with which their high-quality products are manufactured.

Many of the collections shown here are distinctive originals, others are to be understood as design-technical interpretations of popular classics or homages to great products from

epochs of the past. However, it is neither the age of the brands nor the duration of their products’ market presence that is decisive for the brands to be shown at the L.O.C.K. Moreover, the L.O.C.K. exhibitors are united in their affinity to their craftsmanship and their valuing of originality, tradition and authenticity.

We will continue to follow the objective of gathering these brands in our

L.O.C.K. – Labels of Common Kin area, and of presenting them in a publication, the L.O.C.K. BOOK, in order to provide the retail with a comprehensive overview of the “new luxury”.

The product comes first!

Karl-Heinz Müller

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Interview with JASON DENHAM

THE JEANMAKER

by Helmut Wolf pool Magazine ---------------

Every piece of clothing by Denham the jeanmaker conveys the brand’s passion and dedication for denim and jeans. The tailor’s scissors in their logo stand for their love of craftsmanship and attention to detail that guides all their interpretations of the classic denim look. In the following interview, Jason “the jeanmaker” Denham explains why denim has been fascinating him for years and why jeans have the power to eliminate social differences.

---------------H.W.: Dear Jason, what is it that fascinates you about denim?

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J.D.: There simply is no other material that is as fascinating as denim. When I studied fabrics back in university and learned about the holistic process and story behind the material, I simply fell in love with it. My biggest passion is the versatility of indigo in combination with wool. I’m sure there’ll always be denim jeans because every pair has its very own personality.

H.W.: You could say that jeans adapt to the person wearing them. They have the power to eliminate all social differences. Actually, jeans are the most democratic product of the clothing industry, wouldn’t you say so?

J.D.: Jeans indeed have the power to eliminate all social differences. Jeans are worn by convicts, rebels, bikers, ravers, shakers, makers, star chasers, toe gazers, idols, idles, militants, heroes and most importantly, the real guy on the street. And as jeans are an organic product, they change and get better the more you wear them.

They adapt to our body and are a means of expressing our personality and lifestyle.

revival of small, individual craftsman’s workshops and manufacturers?

H.W.: Elaborate craftsmanship stands in contrast to our fast-paced world of cheap goods. Do you think that our turbulent times could lead to

H.W.: Each one of your products seems to convey the brand’s passion and dedication. Do you think that this “tangible” passion can affect consumers and influence them?

J.D.: I do, absolutely! I don’t think cutting down on quality and prices is an efficient way to deal with the economic crisis. I’m convinced that consumer attitudes will change and that cheap “throw-away fashion” will be replaced by quality brands. We believe in honest pricing and innovative, highquality products.

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J.D.: We act by the guideline that “the truth lies in the detail”. We want all our products to convey this kind of passion and dedication. Our collections are based on two principles: Firstly, we understand history. We collect vintage clothing and have already amassed more than 1,000 pieces of used clothing, radiating inspiration, history and integrity. Secondly, we love to reinvent.

Although we admire traditions, we disapprove of unquestionable principles.

H.W.: Do you have a certain type of person in mind when you create a product?

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J.D.: Yes, I do. I imagine someone who shares our passion for originality, quality and modernity. Our products are timeless and stand for a certain attitude.

H.W.: What do you think of this statement: “Without the old, there would be nothing new”?

J.D.: I believe that quality takes time to evolve. And I think that the old can inspire the new. Before you create a pair of jeans, you have to understand their history. In our studio we have a huge archive that keeps track of these

developments. We follow our passion for modern design and combine it with history. In a way, this leads to a balance of admiring traditions and destroying conventions …

J.D.: Genuineness, quality.

H.W.: Would you say that timelessness is the new avant-garde?

J.D.: I love what I do. I know, it’s a cliché - but I haven’t worked one day in my life. What I do every day is my hobby, my passion. I like to get up early, often at 5 a.m., and go to the studio.

These quiet hours, where I can do my own thing, are my biggest source of inspiration. Every collection is a step ahead, which gives me new energy and brings me forward ...

J.D.: Yes and no. Timelessness is good, but I’m also thrilled about breaking conventions and reintroducing certain techniques, details and outlines.

H.W.: What means authenticity to you?

originality,

H.W.: What’s your daily source of motivation?

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Interview with DON NORMAN

Emo tional Design

by Helmut Wolf pool Magazine ---------------

What makes a product comprehensible, useable? Is it true that we work more efficiently with a device that we enjoy using? And: Do computers obstruct our creative thinking?

US scientist Don Norman, one of the world’s leading specialists in the field of design usability and “emotionally functioning designs”, has been providing answers to all these questions for many years.

An email here, a website there; a new update here, something that needs improving and restructuring there: Computers continuously demand our attention. Like a small animal,

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the computer challenges us - and causes us to lose a lot of time, energy and creative potential in the process.

In his role as a “usability consultant”, Don Norman, cognitive scientist, computer visionary and design consultant, has dealt extensively with the comprehensibility and usability of products.

During this, he has repeatedly found that many technologies are simply not useful in everyday life - and they take the fun and joy away from us.

“I believe that many people don’t really need complex technology. People would rather do things the natural way, and enjoy doing them!”, the Professor Emeritus for Computer Science

at Northwestern University said in an interview with Spiegel Online. In his multifaceted occupation, Norman, who has worked for brands such as Hewlett Packard and Apple, has for many years advocated the integration of emotional character into products. Regarding Emotional Design, a term defined by Don Norman and also the title of one of his many books, studies have proven that it clearly leads to more effective work. Things that are well thought out and well designed put us in a better mood, which in turn leads to increased productivity and satisfaction.

In the following interview, Donald A. Norman defines his perception of good

design, and declares that it definitely has the power to change our view of the world.

---------------H.W.: Dear Don Norman, perfection can quickly become boring - in life, as well as in fashion and design. How do you explain people’s affinity for perfection and a lack of “liveliness”?

D.N.: I think that something like perfection doesn’t exist. Personally, I am not seeking perfection, but I am always looking for new knowledge and findings ...

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H.W.: Legendary Braun designer Dieter Rams once said: “Good design means as little design as possible.”

What do you think about this quote?

D.N.: Dieter Rams is both right and wrong: Good design is difficult. Yes, a good design often appears simpler than others, with less rather than more. But simplicity is often deceiving.

To design an object that is well made, reliable, robust and functional, as well as cost-effective, easy to comprehend and on top of that enjoyable - yes, to achieve all these things is very, very difficult. However, to implement all of this is exactly what I am striving for (note: Don Norman is also a co-found-

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er of the usability consulting company “Nielsen Norman Group”). But it certainly requires an enormous amount of thinking, a lot of work and many attempts.

What Dieter Rams is essentially trying to say is that he condemns the unnecessary debauchery in design.

In order to achieve “more”, designers have to reduce. But simplification is much more challenging and difficult than adding something on top.

To create good design is quite honestly very difficult.

H.W.: For many years, you have been an advocate of “emotional design”. Can the joyful use of a product change our

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Donald A. Norman is considered to be one of the world’s leading experts in the field of design usability.

He is a professor for Design and Computer Science at Northwestern University, and has worked among others for companies such as Hewlett-Packard and Apple.

He also is a co-founder of the usability consulting company “Nielsen Norman Group” and the author of numerous books, e.g.

“Emotional Design: Why we love (or hate) everyday things” (2003) or “The Design of Future Things” (2007).

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feelings, or maybe even our view of the world?

D.N.: For me personally, the most important part of a design is the experience you are having with it. And yes, this experience and perception certainly are setting in because of emotional design. But positive experiences are also synonymous with good craftsmanship, wonderful, satisfactory results, and an object that we enjoy using over and over again.

Do they change our feelings? Do they change our view of the world? Hah ... of course they do! Just think about how badly designed or poorly manufactured products affect your feelings in

a negative way. These things frustrate us, annoy us, and make us angry. They literally transform us into monsters that are difficult to deal with. Yes, they in fact make us angry with everything that surrounds us.

Fantastic design on the other hand does the exact opposite to us: It makes us smile, relax, and simply feel good.

We are smiling and are seeing the world in a positive light. So, clearly, design does influence our feelings. The trademark of good design is its positive influence on our experiences, feelings, and especially that it evokes joy.

This is one of the most important effects of emotional design ...

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WINTER 2010 ---------------

B R A N D S

English quality knitwear since 19 0 7 ----------------

Alan Paine ---------------

At the beginning of the 20th century, Godalming in Surrey, England, was a small town with a long history of wool knitwear production. When William Paine, a struggling tailor, discovered old hand knitting machines in a timbered warehouse, he put them to use developing some of the first cable stitch sweaters. The popularity of his cable sweaters grew with sportsmen and women and, before long, the club colour trim was introduced.

After WWII, William’s son Alan Paine took over the company, re-launching the business with such success that it became one of the first UK government sponsored companies to embark on a post-war export scheme. During the

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1950s and 1960s, Alan Paine saw rapid business growth in Europe and North America. The company remained in the Paine family until the early 1990s.

Today, Alan Paine produces mens, womens and kids collections of classic and contemporary knitwear. Their new line, AP1907, is inspired by vintage Alan Paine pieces; the range includes contemporary slim-fitting lightweight knits with intricate stitch detail and innovative styling in luxury Merino, Lambswool, Geelong and washdown Geelong.

Alan Paine, proud of its English heritage and worldwide recognition, remains committed to the traditional values and the high quality standards of its early years

Reinvented classic silhouettes ----------------

Alejandro Ingelmo ---------------

Educated at Parsons, and based in New York City, shoe and accessories designer Alejandro Ingelmo debuted his first women’s shoe collection for the Fall/Winter 2006 season. Born and raised with Cuban influences, his signature maintains, the sexy allure of his heritage, while incorporating a powerfully directional New York edge.

Ingelmo reinvents classic women’s silhouettes while utilizing contemporary materials, providing the designer customer with a unique, and progressive perspective on heels, platforms and ballerinas.

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Based on the success of the women’s line, Ingelmo added a men’s collection to his resume for the Spring/Summer 2007 season.

The collection features luxury trainers and dress shoes in futuristic fabrications such as mirrored metallics and bronzed pythons. “AI’s” have a cult following and are worn by the likes of Jay Z and Kanye West.

In 2008, Alejandro was one of the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Top Ten candidates, and has been nominated for the 2009 Swarovski Award for Accessory Design.

Dance t onight, revol ution t omorro w.

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April 77 ---------------

Guitarist and drummer Brice Partouche created APRIL77® in 2002.

APRIL77® opened their first office in Paris in 2004, and in 2008, the APRIL77RECORDS® label was born: everyone who buys APRIL77® jeans can download exclusive songs, with new releases each month.

As an artist, Brice Partouche has his roots in underground movements. This authenticity is mirrored in the cuttingedge style of their jeans with names such as “Dictator Heart Attack Black” or “Joey Nightrider Grey”, and tops such as the jacket called “Distortion Kennedy”.

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The look is decidedly masculine and neo-dandy, and clearly created with a downtown lifestyle in mind. For APRIL77®, urban modernity and a rebellious Rock’n’Roll lifestyle are not just a fake posture, but a real attitude: their principle is “no compromising in the name of trends”.

Today, APRIL77® is sold in 400 boutiques in more than 20 countries, spreading their philosophy of the APRIL77® DIY and Underground.

A womens collection launch and collaborations with major music and fashion artists are highlights for 2010.

Bret on quality ----------------

Armor Lux ---------------

In 1938, Swiss-German businessman Walter Hubacher founded The Bonneterie d’Armor in Quimper, Brittany, and started producing high quality underwear under the name “Armor Lux”.

Since the early 1970s, the Armor Lux range has been expanded to fully designed ready-to-wear collections: shirts, jackets, and skirts. In 1997, Armor Lux introduced its children line Armor kids.

Today, Armor Lux stands for quality leisure garments with a navy style inspired by the Breton heritage, with around 9,000 items manufactured each day. But the Armor Lux principle is not only profit: as an active member of the “Produit en Bretagne” association, Armor Lux is deeply involved in

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the economic and cultural life of Brittany and its nature. Therefore, Armor Lux is also committed to sustainable development, supports the 10 principals of the United Nations Global Compact, and is France’s biggest buyer of fairtrade cotton yarn.

Inspired by the colours of the sea, the Armor Lux style is chic and decidedly maritime, with the traditional Breton stripe shirt as a classic highlight.

With the production of the Breton shirt, Armor Lux continues a French Breton clothing tradition: the Breton shirt was officially created for the uniform of French seamen in 1858, since the stripes allowed to more easily locate a man fallen into the sea.

Ro yal pro tection ----------------

Barbour ---------------

In the North East of England, days can be uninviting, wet and cold. That’s why shepherds, dockworkers, fishermen and sailors in that region consider their clothing as something like a ‘protective skin’. Hailing from the Scottish village of Galloway, draper and former shepherd John Barbour knew this and in 1894 opened a shop in South Shields selling ‘oilskin’ jackets that protected men against the weather. From then on, his company Barbour sold their products with growing success, continuously extending their range.

In 1908, they produced their first wax cotton motorbike suit, and then the iconic motorbike jacket ‘Barbour International’ in 1936. Barbour included

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waxed jackets for fishermen, hunters and equestrians, and received the first Royal Warrant from the Duke of Edinburgh in 1974. This was followed by those of Queen Elizabeth II and her son Prince Charles.

Since the mid 1980’s, the brand, that still has its headquarters at the original location in South Shields, has expanded its product range to incorporate knitwear, shirts, sports jackets, trousers and a special women’s collection, while the waxed cotton jacket still remains the heart and soul of Barbour. Collaborations, such as the current one with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida, add an inspirational touch to the brand’s traditional style.

Uncompromising Performance ----------------

Blauer ---------------

For over 60 years, Blauer has been the leading brand in the U.S. for supplying technical garments to all Law Enforcement and to some select sectors of the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy officers or the Commando guarding the White House. Under its motto “Uncompromising Performance”, Blauer equips its customers with outerwear protecting them against heat and cold, water and danger. In the U.S., Blauer garments are only sold through specialized channels such as Police Agencies.

Since shortly, Blauer garments are also available in Italy thanks to a licence agreement with FGF INDUSTRY S.P.A. Company, addressed to a public keen on “made in U.S.A.” brands and on technical items with a rich history, that are “authentic-original” even if improved in comfort and fitting, having adopted characteristics

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and shapes necessary for the European Market.

Inspired by the American police world, the European Fall/Winter 2010 collection features the Blauer down jackets as the collection’s key pieces, offering maximum comfort while being nicely lightweight.

Top quality techno materials such as nylon and micronylon are used for the outerwear, combined with cotton and wool to create weight and texture contrasts. Leatherwear is presented with new colours and vintage treatments, and womens models are increasingly sophisticated, with new ultra feminine lines. Men’s classic bombers are replaced by the reefer or jacket line, with detachable down or fur linings to ensure the ”uncompromising performance” that Blauer products have provided for more than 60 years now.

Est. 18 66 ----------------

Brooks England ---------------

Brooks England is well-known for manufacturing traditional high-quality leather bicycle saddles. The company is steeped in history: it all began in 1866, when John Boultbee Brooks established a business in Great Charles Street in Birmingham, England, producing horse harnesses and general leather goods under the name JB Brooks & Co. When the death of his horse and his inability to afford a new one forced Mr. Brooks to commute to work by bike, inspiration struck him: unsatisfied with the comfort provided by the bicycle saddle, he developed a new one, and on 28 October 1882, Mr. Brooks filed his first saddle patent.

The beautiful leather handcrafted Brooks England bicycle saddles

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became a great success, and JB Brooks & Co soon started to add cycle and motorcycle bags and other accessories to their range.

Traditional techniques in manufacturing leather saddles were passed down from generation to generation of craftsmen as the company grew from a small Birmingham workshop to a byword in quality craftsmanship.

In the last decade, Brooks England followed a new course honouring the company’s heritage: reviving the original slogan “Saddles, Bags, Etc”, a range of cycle bags and other accessories was introduced, inspired by the timelessness of the old Brooks England patents combined with contemporary design.

Inspired b y a Detroit classic ----------------

Buco ---------------

Buco: a brand name that simply sounds “STRONG”!

The very first Buco product was created in the early 1930’s, right in the middle of the US city that is wellknown for manufacturing quality and durable products: Detroit, Michigan.

Aiming at perpetuating the tradition, Buco developed and created first of all the legendary “J24” leather jacket, made and shaped for the Detroit Motorcycle Police department. The “J24”, hailed as “the coolest motorcycle jacket ever” by those in the know, inspired the current Buco line with the original spirit, and provided inspiration to find the authentic vintage details that bring on every Buco product

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the quality and care hardly expected by people who enjoy exclusive brands.

All Buco fabrics come from the original denim weaver’s looms, and dark and pure triple dyed indigo gives the Buco products a real half-century life effect.

Buttons and rivets are especially chosen for their long durability, and the selected yarns are of a great thickness to support heavy washing treatments.

But above everything, Buco paid special attention to working on the tailor made fits. The result: the Buco products feature an exceptionally comfortable fit.

Quality, authenticity, durability, a great fit, and inspiration from a Detroit classic: these are the core elements of the Buco brand philosophy!

ASK ANYONE WHO KNOWS™ ----------------

Canada Goose ---------------

Founded in 1957, Canada Goose has been committed to producing the best extreme weather outerwear in the world. Initially making a small number of jackets and woolen shirts to a large factory in the heart of Toronto’s design district, Canada Goose is an authentic Canadian success story of hard work and determination. Today the collection includes Arctic Down, Multi-Zone, Special Collections and accessories for men, women and youth.

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Canada Goose products are rooted in remote northern communities, on Arctic expeditions and ascents of Mount Everest. They are considered a survival tool at South Pole Research stations and on oil rigs where punishing, damp cold can at times be mind-numbing.

They are born of purpose and function.

And every single element in a Canada Goose is crafted to meet the demands of those who know what “extreme” really means.

Contemporary reinterpretations of an origin al ----------------

Clarks Originals ---------------

1825 in Street, a village in Somerset, England: while working at his brother Cyrus‘ tannery, James Clark invented the first Clarks shoe: the “Brown Petersburg”, a sheepskin slipper that turned out to be a huge success. By 1842, James and Cyrus Clark, now trading as C&J Clark Limited, were selling an average of 1,000 pairs of slippers a month! The 20th century saw business booming for C&J Clark Limited. Today, Clarks is the world’s largest casual and smart shoe company, and the fourth largest footwear company on the planet, having produced stylish court shoes, winkle-pickers, wedges, sandals and sneakers for crooners, rockers, Mods, Britpoppers and Hip Hoppers, while always staying committed to their main principle: quality.

The Clarks Original range was started with the soft, ankle high, crepe

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soled Desert Boot, originally invented

by Nathan Clark in a Burmese military outpost in 1949. Apart from variations of the Desert Boot, the Clarks Originals range features new styles and contemporary versions of classics such as the Wallabee, originally introduced in 1965, or the Desert Trek, introduced in 1974.

All Clarks Originals are made of only natural materials, feature handcrafted simplicity with a great attention to detail, and unite comfort with stylish, timeless yet contemporary design.

In 2009, Clarks celebrated the 60th anniversary of the Desert Boot with six new designs, inspired by each of the six decades. The Desert Boot: a global icon, an original that, in its contemporary reinterpretations, unites the typical Clarks combination of innovation and traditional influences.

Reinterpreted Ski Vinta ge ----------------

Crust ---------------

Every wintersport addict or inhabitant of the world’s colder regions is familiar with it: crust, the crisp, firm, outer surface layer of ice crystals covering the snow. Just like snow, the down jackets of the Italian Sportswear brand Crust have a layer and a surface, combining contemporary urban style with over 40 years of down jacket production know-how of Cinellistudio.

The Crust Ski Vintage concept is a modern, innovative reinterpretation of Crust archive pieces, 1970s and 1980s ski wear. Reknowned sportswear designer Gionata Malagodi designed

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the Crust Fall/Winter 2010 collection.

His approach is to extend the Crust Ski Vintage concept to jackets, blazers, coats, and raincoats with a reversible ski duvet on the inside. Main stylistic feature of the current Crust collection is the use of overdyed, evocative prints, with the legendary Val d’Isère, a versatile down jacket, as the highlight.

Crust is very innovative when it comes to combining garments: the line features coats with a ski jacket inside, or innovations such as a down jacket assembled with a hoodie: genuine down clothing for urban kings and queens.

A Vancouver origin al ----------------

Dayton Boots ---------------

In the winter of 1946, Charlie Wohlford founded Dayton Boots in East Vancouver, British Columbia, wanting to answer the needs of workers who had to cope with tough conditions in mining, logging or farming industries.

Dayton Boots quickly gained a reputation for producing the best logging boots in the world. Not only loggers, but construction workers as well as fire and police departments came to appreciate the tough durability of Dayton boots. The Dayton western boot, introduced in 1962, was the first with outside seams. The Black Beauty double-soled motorcycle boot, introduced in 1965, is still one of the Dayton classics, in its popularity with motorcyclists only beaten by the double-soled

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Engineer boot, known as “the toughest motorcycle boot ever made”.

Lovingly designed and handcrafted, Dayton boots combine comfort, durability and classic styling. No cardboard or glue is used, the boots are either Goodyear welted or fully nailed. Only the finest and most durable premium leather, two times thicker than the one of most premium leather boots, is processed. The result: a durability that leads to some of these boots being still in use after 25-40 years.

Manufactured in Vancouver for over 60 years with the same attention to detail as in 1946, Dayton quality work, leisure and motorcycle boots offer a lifetime warranty, and enjoy a growing popularity.

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Delan --------------Since 1974, the “Del Duca” family from Tuscany/Italy has been specialising in mens and womens leather fashion with their label Delan.

The secret behind the unique Delan price-efficiency is the union of tannery, production and laundry in one

house. The leather is of an excellent naturalness due to the careful tanning process steps and high-tech washing.

Delan stands for washed lamb nappa that unites the most advanced technology and highest-quality fashion.

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Latini --------------Latini has been a manufacturer of the finest handmade leather in Tuscany, Italy for 60 years, combing style and skilled hand manufacturing.

Latini is committed to setting and following the highest service standards in procuring, selling and, above all, production: The Latini first-class

leather fashion is processed in the world’s best quality-tanneries with the finest raw material from Spain and Italy, resulting in a success that has been sustained for decades. The Latini highlight is the unique combination of their leather with cashmere from the prestigious Loro Piana manufacture.

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Moriano --------------Moriano Studio in Florence, Italy: since 1963, the Moriano family has been providing its expertise not only in lambskin, but also in winery and olive oil, everything “Made in Tuscany”.

Processed in the world’s best tanneries and thanks to the finest raw materials imported from Spain, the Moriano

leather products have been a success for nearly 50 years now. Every season, Moriano provides exclusive outlooks for men and women.

For Fall/Winter 2010, Moriano has designed light and innovative compositions such as feather features for their leather clothing.

W orship tradition, destro y convention.

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Denham the Jeanmaker ---------------

When it comes to making jeans, it’s all about the right balance for DENHAM the Jeanmaker: they show that the commitment to progressive design and an obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition don’t contradict, but result in timeless quality products conveying great passion and a dedication to honest craftsmanship.

Since 2009, Jason Denham and the DENHAM design team have focused on the balance between worshipping tradition and constant reinvention.

That’s what they mean when they say “Denham Design Denim Integrity”.

In their DENHAM HOUSE in Amsterdam’s Prinsengracht, the team

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follows this philosophy, gaining design inspiration from the DENHAM Garment library, a manifestation of Jason Denham’s obsession for jeans craft tradition. He has been building this archive for over 15 years, amassing more than 1,000 items.

Here, the DENHAM design team created, with their passion for originality, quality and modernity, the highlights for AW 10, featuring a highly restrained mix of colour, a focus on texture contradictions, Midlayer-Outerlayer Reversals, Unspoiled Denim and Denham Virgin. The truth is in the details!

The definitive khaki brand.

----------------

Dockers® K-1 --------------The cloth Khaki was first invented by the British in India more than 150 years ago. Initially worn as military wear, it quickly became the standard garment for international explorers and adventurers. Khaki started to become fashionable when film stars like Greta Garbo, Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart began wearing Khakis both on and off Hollywood screens. Since then, the distinctive khaki fabric became the embodiment of casual cool.

Since their introduction in 1986 in San Francisco by Levi Strauss & Co., the Dockers® brand has been perfecting Khakis. During the mid-1980s, Dockers® Khakis became the fastest growing apparel brand in history. Research then showed that Dockers® Khakis were found in the wardrobes of eight out of ten American men, becoming the definite Khaki pant brand for more than two decades. From the mid-1990s,

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Khakis became synonymous with effortless style suitable for leisurely getalways and business casual wear.

In 2009 Dockers® introduced a comfortable yet stylish Limited Edition Dockers® K-1 Khakis, encapsulating the mood of half a century of Khaki history which combines utility and comfort with style and tailored design.

Staying true to the brands authenticity, the new Dockers® K-1 - Made in San Francisco Khakis for Spring Summer 2010 will be manufactured in San Francisco, California, with the same level of craftsmanship which went into producing the original Cramerton Army cloth over seven decades ago, only with slight alterations to make the material relevant for the modern consumer. This deluxe all-purpose industrial uniform fabric with premium materials and the highest attention to detail, guarantees superior quality and authenticity.

Indie thinking , true-talking & unparalleled passion ----------------

Double -M ---------------

After having worked for the world’s leading denim brands for two decades, Swedish denim legend Mille Monferin decided to launch his own premium denim brand: Double-M, the name a reference to his initials, and to his spiritual guru.

Gaining inspiration from his denim archive that includes over 1,300 pairs of jeans, Mille’s influences are both 1940s workwear and 1960s vintage denim. His love for detail is apparent in each of the womens and mens high quality slim fitted premium denims and beautifully treated leather jackets.

Apart from his denim brand Double-M, Mille continues to work as a

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consultant for jeans brands in both Western and Eastern Europe, Russia and Japan, seeing his company as a new platform between Japan and Europe. The Double-M company and brand philosophy and keywords: indie thinking, true-talking & unparalleled passion, handstitched, well-sewn, and socially conscious.

The Double-M team is spread out in the cities that Mille’s heart beats for: London, Zurich and Tokyo. The Double-M style mirrors Mille’s geographically widespread inspirations by blending the best creative ingredients of these cities, resulting in unique but affordable luxury products for demanding experts.

Arts and Crafts ----------------

Dukes - Finest Vintage Artisan ---------------

Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan was established by a creative collective of ambitious vintage lovers. Their commitment to sustainability, passion for art, crafts and very rare original vintage clothes and accessories built the basis of their work. The Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan collection consists of a lovingly restored exclusive range of unique and extremely rare up to 30-years-old army leather belts and bags.

After the vintage products have been cleaned with special detergents that preserve the patina, and polished with

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special leather lotions, they are elaborately adorned: embossed, riveted and painted by the skilled hands of former members of Vienna’s Augarten Porcelain Manufactory. Every processing step is done by hand.

The Dukes Finest Vintage Artisan collection style is inspired by contemporary art, music and pop culture, as well as historical and cultural influences from all over the world.

An individual serial number makes each style a unique and authentic collector’s item with heart and history.

Exl usive Berlin handmade quality since 19 09 ----------------

Edsor Kronen ---------------

Established in 1909, the Berlin tie manufactory KRONEN had its first heyday in the pulsating life of the Golden Twenties in Berlin. Style and elegance were highly valued, quality was the main objective and KRONEN found international recognition when the first filmstars became idols and enjoyed flaunting their KRONEN ties.

Today, EDSOR KRONEN creates three collections each year that are designed by Creative Director Günther H. Stelly together with the most prestigious Italian silk weavers. The EDSOR range includes accessories for people that appreciate style and quality: exclusive hand-sewn ties, bows, pockets squares, hand-stitched scarves, shawls, traditional as well as fashionable narrower cummerbunds, Ascot ties, ascots and made-to-measure silk dressing gowns.

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In their manufactory in a 100-yearsold industrial building in Berlin Kreuzberg, the 30 EDSOR KRONEN employees are surrounded by Art Déco furniture, Modern Art and huge paisley scarves – the perfect atmosphere for artistic inspiration for the employees, who deploy their craftsmanship skills to create the hand-sewn EDSOR collections with the finest Italian silk, luxurious cashmere and high quality wool.

Since 2009, CEO Jan-Henrik M. Scheper-Stuke, younger than the EDSOR KRONEN manufactory by three quarters of a century, brings a breath of fresh air to the traditionsteeped company, extending the EDSOR KRONEN collections by combining the tradition of Berlin handmade production with numerous creative collaborations. EDSOR KRONEN: your companion on the return to style.

Japanese craftsmanship since 19 47 ----------------

Edwin ---------------

When K.K. Tsunemi wanted to follow his passion for denim in Tokyo, Japan in 1947, he had no choice but to import used denim directly from the U.S. since no denim was manufactured in Japan at the time. In 1961, he crafted the first pair of Edwin denim Jeans, the name playing on the word “denim” with the “m” turned upside down, creating the word “EDWIN”.

In 1963, Edwin produced the world’s heaviest ringspun denim (16 oz), featuring the famous tri-colour “Rainbow” listed selvage. These jeans were so heavy and rigid that they were reputed for standing by themselves.

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During the 1970s, Edwin developed “Old Wash” that replicated worn denim, and introduced their “Stone Washing” technique in the 1970s, commonly used in today’s denim manufacturing.

In the 1990s, Edwin created the “New Vintage” concept, producing hand replications of original vintage washes.

With craftsmanship and innovation at the heart of their identity, Edwin use exclusive fabrics while employing unique technology, hand wash processes and continual progression in design and fit. Edwin always stayed close to the Japanese roots, gaining inspiration from their historical denim archive dating back to 1947.

COMPLETELY RENEWED ----------------

Evisu ---------------

As a member of the “Osaka Five”, Evisu is considered one of the five most influential Japanese brands in denim history.

Hidehiko Yamane, Japanese denim collector, importer, and trained tailor, founded the denim brand and manufacturer Evisu in 1991 in Osaka, Japan, naming it after the Japanese god of prosperity. Yamane had set out to reproduce the perfect pair of vintage jeans on original shuttle looms, his model being the classic 1944 Levi’s® 501xx. The back pocket logo is represented by a hand painted, stylized seagull which many consider one of the most recognizable logos in the world.

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Evisu, and Yamane, are credited with initiating the revival of vintage denim Since mid-2009, Scott Morrison, founder and designer of both Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn, has taken the reigns as Evisu’s CEO and Creative Director, determined to reestablish the brand’s focus on product quality and craftsmanship, and to maintain the authenticity by returning to Evisu’s iconic heritage.

The new collection of denim, clothing, outerwear and bags are an updated reference to classic clothing, denim and workwear style for both men and women. This is completely renewed Evisu.

Made for a lifetime ----------------

Filson ---------------

When the Great Clondike Gold Rush started in 1897, C.C. Filson outfitted the fortune hunters rushing through Seattle on their way north. The men were in need of a barrier against temperatures up to -50 °C. At the time, clothing was a matter of survival. Filson had the solution: best handcrafted, tough protective wear, comfortable, functional outdoor clothing. “If a man is going North, he should come to us for his outfit.” was the Filson claim in those days.

Since then, Filson products made in U.S.A. have earned a worldwide reputation for their quality and durability.

Hunters, fishermen, engineers, explorers, mariners, and miners have valued the rugged quality duffle bags, tote bags, sweaters, jackets, and belts. Today, adventurers in the business world can carry their laptop in a reliable

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Filson bag throughout their various quests. The attention to detail is apparent everywhere: “Cover”, “Shelter” and “Tin” cloths are made of extremely dense woven cotton, soaked in a special, paraffin-based wax. The leather used

by Filson is cut from the strongest parts of the cow skin, and tanned vegetal.

Only 100 percent Virgin wool is used, for the fibres come straight from the sheep and have ideal insolating and water absorbing qualities.

Filson bags are the toughest luggage you’ll ever own: Filson claim to have once even lifted a 230 pounds heavy 1968, 1,500 c,c, Single Port Volkswagen engine in one of their Extra Large Duffle bags, six feet in the air. Both bag and engine survived the experiment.

These unique, all-natural products are truly made for a lifetime.

For every sole a soul ----------------

Fred de la Bretonière ---------------

Educated at the Art Academy in The Hague, Amsterdam artist Fred de la Bretonière soon discovered his passion for shoe and bag designs and founded his label Fred de la Bretonière 40 years ago. The strength of the brand is the use of natural materials to create timeless designs.

Fred’s initial inspiration was to design shoes and bags that would enhance a woman’s personality and that they would love and want to wear year after year. His motto: designed to make you feel better with every step you take. For his products, only vegetable-tanned leather is used, looking better the more it is worn – just like jeans do.

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In his unique bag and shoes collections, now including men and children shoes as well, the individualistic designer continues to combine quality with durability and a pure sense of style.

The current collection features rich and valuable materials, a colourful, spicy winter cocktail with perfect proportions, careful leather selections and fine detailing. It is a robust collection with an elegant touch, a journey through space and time, inspired

by Roman as well as Indian styles.

A selection of shoes, bracelets and bags carries the celebration tag, honouring 40 years of classic, yet nonchalant and sturdy Fred de la Bretonière design.

Herita ge w o ven in ----------------

Fred Perry ---------------

2009 marked the year of the Fred Perry centenary: its founder, charismatic British tennis legend and table tennis champion Frederick John Perry, was born in 1909 in Stockport, Great Britain. After winning Wimbledon and the Davis Cup several times, gaining him international fame, in 1952 Perry created innovative sweatbands and handed them out to the best tennis players who wore them on court: the Fred Perry sportswear brand was born. He chose the laurel wreath, victorious sign on the Wimbledon medal and Davis Cup blazers he owned, as the logo for his stylish casual wear.

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Over the past decades, Fred Perry became not only a global fashion brand, but also synonymous with subcultures driven by musical influences, the most famous ones being the British Mods, who adopted the Fred Perry shirts as their favourites. Today, Fred Perry still is the epitome of British streetwear.

Although the Fred Perry range today includes menswear, womenswear, footwear and accessories, and collaborations as part of its Laurel concept collection, its signature piece remains the classic, slim piquÊ cotton shirt – the Fred Perry shirt.

Bidding farewell t o mass production ----------------

Gilded Age ---------------

When founding casual luxury label Gilded Age, principal designer and creative director Stefan Miljanic was inspired by the craftsmanship of the early industrial revolution around the turn of 20th century: an era known as the “Gilded Age”.

The “Gilded Age” was a time of economic revival and technological progress, inventions and immigration: over 25 million immigrants from Northern, Western and Eastern Europe came to the USA drawn by the promise of prosperity, many of them skilled craftsmen. Deeply committed to this era’s craftsmanship and textile production techniques predating mass production, Gilded Age follows organic, handcrafted and artisanal approaches to fabric and product development.

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The Gilded Age men’s line is a mix of premium selvage jeans and luxury sportswear, made of organic materials, natural dyes and artisanal fabrics, giving them a rugged, industrial look and natural feel.

The range includes selvage, natural indigo dyed jeans, shirts and sweaters hand knitted with the finest Mongolian cashmere yarns, authentic wool and cotton outerwear, bags made of the most durable materials, organic and natural knits produced on the oldest looms still in use, and natural and hand dyed pants and shorts.

All Gilded Age products are handcrafted using vintage machinery: detailed craftsmanship instead of mass production.

100% Chic Recycle ----------------

Hell’s Kitchen ---------------

Infamous New York City district Hell’s Kitchen is a symbol of reinvention: from the city’s most rundown area, an underworld district with a gritty reputation from the 19th century on, when Irish immigrants lived there under horrible conditions – depicted in Scorsese’s film “Gangs of New York”, the Hell’s Kitchen district developed into a creative hotspot.

When Marco Lai, a young Italian fashion designer from Verona, founded his recycled fashion label in 2006, he named it “Hell’s Kitchen” as a reference to the general ability of trans-

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formation and metamorphosis.

Inspiration struck Lai when he was repairing a flat tyre on his bike, asking himself: Why not use the tyre itself as if it were a type of leather or cloth? Subsequently, Lai’s Hell’s Kitchen brand takes used materials such as inner car tubes, car seat belts and old shirts, and recycles them into unique urban accessories: bags, helmets, wallets and the papermills collection with notebooks, all made of strictly recycled materials brought back to life.

Ecological and resistant: 100 % chic recycle!

HOLLYWOOD TRADING COMPANY ----------------

HTC ---------------

In 1993, Zip Stevenson started collecting authentic vintage leather belts at flea markets all over the USA. Stevenson quickly learned about people’s love affair with classic, handmade accessories, the most intricately designed ones proved to be the most popular. Recognising this, Stevenson decided to launch a limited edition collection of replicas of the old vintage belts he had discovered at the flea markets, and founded his brand HTC Hollywood Trading Company in Santa Monica, California in 2000.

In the same year, Stevenson started a collaboration with Andrea Brà, who, with his LCB Company, produces ar-

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tisan Made in Italy accessories and shares a passion for vintage with Stevenson. Later, it’s up to Chicco Barina with Home Made Company to repeat the same operation creating the HTC denim line: today HTC is one of the main brands in the casual deluxe field worn by the most famous people in the Hollywood star system and it’s distributed on all five continents.

The HTC great variety of belts, mostly beautifully studded, the jeans, shirts with vintage L.A. style graphics, leather jackets and bags, are inspired by vintage classics, each product possessing a rough-hewn, time-honoured feel and an aged, vintage look.

Live Aran Tradition ----------------

Inis Meá in ---------------

Inis Meáin (Gaelic for Middle Island) is one of the Aran Islands which lie at the mouth of Galway Bay on the west coast of Ireland. It is just 3 miles across, and has a population of 200 people.

Here, Inis Meáin Knitting Company is the main employer, keeping the Aran tradition of practical fishermen’s garments alive while continuously improving and developing it in terms of design and quality.

Those cabled and patterned knits that have kept island fishermen warm for generations come in cowl necks, shawl collars, hoodies and zippers. Then there are simpler knits – GANSEYS – after the style of the sweaters that islanders wore every day with plain crew necks and button necks.

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But Aran knits are more than just cables and diamonds: the Inis Meáin collections show that island knitters were always remarkably versatile with their knitting pins.

For AW 2010, Inis Meáin have taken two very distinctive patterns from the knitters archives on the island to introduce colours inspired by the Aran landscape and the sea in a beautiful and subtle way: the FAROESE pattern blended with the FAIRISLE stitch, and the three-colour TWEED stitch.

Apart from this, the AW collection shows beautiful Donegal knits in the classic jersey stitch and in classic shapes. Bright and soft mufflers and hats complete the collection: Aran atmosphere translated into fashion!

A modern celebration of the Lee icons ----------------

Lee 101 ---------------

The Lee 101 collection is a rousing celebration of Lee’s incredible heritage, designed to appeal to the modern denim lover.

This collection revisits Authentic Lee Classics like the legendary 101B and 101Z jeans or even the iconic Storm Rider Jacket to result in a stunning contemporary collection.

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With the same tribute to quality and attention to detail as since 1911 when the company started to make highquality work wear and iconic cowboy jeans, this collection is moving Lee into the future for another generation of denim lovers.

It is a collection of noble heritage & fresh modernity, guaranteed to appeal to both fashion-seekers and purists.

Iconic origin als ----------------

Lee The Archives ---------------

Lee The Archives is a range of superior selvage denim that exactly replicates a selection of the company’s iconic originals.

Exclusively produced in Japan, all pieces are passionately reproduced by the same vintage sewing, cutting and weaving machines as in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s.

The Archives collection is fashioned from the companies trademark 13 ounce indigo selvage denim and employs exactly the same zips, labels, buttons, stitches and rivets that so marked the originals.

Gleaned from Lee’s magnificent 120 year old archive, each item is a piece of history, originally engineered for railroad workers, cowboys and farmers who all had a demand for clothing

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that was strong and protective. They combine comfort, durability and function with a no nonsense design ethic since 1889.

Lee The Archives simply allows the company’s distinguished history to speak for itself and comprises unique pieces like the famous mechanic’s overall known as the Union-All, invented by H.D. Lee himself in 1913, the legendary Lee Cowboy 101B jean from 1924, the revolutionary first ever zip fly 101Z jean from 1926 and the thoroughly essential blanket lined Storm Rider Jacket.

Brought out in a limited edition as a celebration of our roots, Lee The Archives are true collector’s items for the real denim devotee.

Quality, versatility, simplicity ----------------

Levi’s® Made & Crafted ---------------

In an increasingly fast-moving world, authenticity becomes more essential. Designed and distributed by Levi’s® XX, the newly created global Levi Strauss & Co. division, Levi’s® Made & Crafted answers the growing demand for consistency and timeless clothes. Quality, versatility, and simplicity are the main elements of the

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brand, reflected in fine natural fibers and ultra tactile mixed materials.

Combining today’s modern lifestyle with a commitment to craftsmanship, Levi’s® Made & Crafted provides an everyday wardrobe for pavementpounding urbanites as well as those who prefer being barefoot in the grass.

B ack t o the roo ts ----------------

Levi’s® Vintage Clothing ---------------

As the “heart and soul” of the Levi’s® brand, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing keeps the history of Levi’s® denim alive: since 1999, the famous historical originals from the Levi’s® archives in San Francisco, dating back to 1880, are faithfully reincarnated in this limited edition range.

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The rigid jeans are handcrafted reproductions made in U.S.A. – the ring-denim is woven on 29” wide old vintage shuttle looms by Cone Mills, with whom Levi Strauss & Co have been working for 100 years.

Coming from the birthplace of Japanese denim ----------------

Lost Angle ---------------

The new denim brand Lost Angle, whose name hints at reviving people’s lost angle with their vintage style collection, debuted in Japan in 2008, instantly enjoying great success there. On offer: “luxury at affordable prices”.

100 % designed and produced in Japan, Lost Angle combines high quality Japanese denim with the stylistic influences of Tokyo’s raw creativity: for Lost Angle, designers of the Grangy company in Tokyo cooperate with the traditional denim producers of Okatomo Textile from Ibara city.

Okatomo Textile has been producing denim in Ibara city for over 40 years.

Ibara city, located in the Okayama prefecture of Japan, is a town well-known

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for its superb textile industry, taking pride in their top-of-the-line manufacturing techniques. The town is known as “the birthplace of Japanese denim”, with its craftsmen’s experience stemming from their tradition of high-quality denim manufacturing for generations, fusing avant-garde and nostalgia in their fabrics. Ibara city is one of the few places where indigo dye works from the Edo period (16031868) can still be found.

Apart from its high-quality denim products, the Lost Angle range includes T-Shirts, hoodies, blazers, vintage leather jackets and boots.

For Fall/Winter 2010, Lost Angle launches distribution in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the UK.

The Future of tradition ----------------

Ludwig Reiter ---------------

Established in Vienna, Austria in 1885, the Ludwig Reiter shoe manufactory is a family run company producing top quality handmade shoes and leather goods in the fourth generation.

Particular Ludwig Reiter tradition is the handmade production of Goodyear-welted shoes in the classic Viennese style. Additionally, Ludwig Reiter has developed a wide range of highgrade casual shoes, fine leather goods and other accessories. The shoes are carefully made by hand, and most of the styles can be individually produced as customized orders.

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The Ludwig Reiter production is presently being relocated to the newly renovated historical castle Schloss S端ssenbrunn in the north of Vienna.

The beautiful, listed castle originates in a medieval knights estate that was first redesigned into a noble Renaissance castle in the 16th century and then in the Early Romantic architectural style around 1830.

Today, Ludwig Reiter combines an experience of more than 120 years of fine craftsmanship with contemporary requirements and style: the future of tradition.

Modern, a uthentic, iconic ----------------

Lyle & Scott ---------------

In 1874, William Lyle and Walter Scott began a knitwear company instantly creating a reputation for wellrespected, high quality garments manufactured in Hawick, Scotland.

From humble beginnings selling well-constructed hosiery and undergarments, Lyle and Scott branched out into knitted outerwear for golf twin sets, sweaters, cardigans and jackets.

Soon after, the company expanded into other markets around the world with the help of Y-front underpants for men and even a cashmere collection designed by Christian Dior in the early 1960s. This was also the time when the Golden Eagle was established as the Lyle & Scott motif. Over the years, numerous golfers wore the Lyle & Scott golf range to victory, and in 1975, Lyle

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& Scott obtained the Royal Warrant by HRH the Duke of Edinburgh, reinforcing the brand’s heritage and quality up to today.

In 2001, paying homage to the brand’s past success, the Lyle & Scott Vintage range was created – an authentic trend range inspired by the colourful designs of the 70s and 80s. The current collection features smart sophisticated sportswear references with undertones of modernism and abstract design, slim indie silhouettes, Aran and Guernsey fisherman-inspired styles as well as preppy French Breton style stripe tops. Lyle & Scott Vintage won the Drapers Award for “Young Fashion Brand of the Year” in 2009, showing the brand’s reputation that has been growing for 136 years now.

Construct ors of intelligent garments ----------------

Marithé + François Girbaud ---------------

Marithé and François Girbaud are unrelenting seekers of new fabrics, washes and treatments. For the last 40 years, they have worked from stone to light, from STONEWASH to WATTWASH™, from industrial wash to laser treatment. Their name and reputation are internationally established and their works are recognized and appreciated worldwide. Constantly experimenting with raw materials and reviewing both structures and shapes, Marithé and François Girbaud discovered new fabrics which enabled them to created innovative garments in a constant state of evolution.

“Use the light, save the water” is the motto of the WATTWASH™ treatment.

The result: 97.5% waterfree jeans.

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The WattWash™ is a laser treatment that revolutionizes all fabrics using artificial light and economizing more than 700 litres of water per jeans.

Combining the WattWash and the textile effects realized by the laser, the final product is revolutionary.

Today, it is fundamental to focus on economizing water and on communicating the evolution between the StoneWash and the WattWash™. If the industry continues to faithfully follow Marithé + François Girbaud as it has for decades, they suggest saving millions of litres of water to be used in other ways than creating a “shabby look”.

There is still time to invent a new tomorrow.

The mysterious tale of Master Smith ----------------

Master Smith

Now, who was – or better – who is this fellow Master Smith?

Master Smith is a legend, a strange occurrence, a mystery – inscrutable and misty like some sort of specter.

Legend has it that his name can be found on the payrolls of the whalers Essex’ and Peqoud’s penultimate journeys. He searched with the British for the sources of the Nile, and some say he accompanied Mallory and Irvine on their famous lost expedition to conquer Mount Everest. Others claimed to have seen him onboard the Norge as he flew over the north pole with admiral Nobile and R. Amundsen.

Master Smith was allegedly one of the international airmail pilots who traveled over the Pacific Ocean in their infamous China Clipper. He was one of few break-neck pilots who risked it all at the Cleveland Air Races. His red and white GeeBee is a testament

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to his guts until this very day. During the years of the Great Depression, he brought home the bacon by starring in a death-defying motorcycle stunt show at a traveling carnival. He amazed the folks with his display of courage and fearlessness, being the first man to ride a frame-stripped Indian on the vertical planks of the Wall of Death – backwards and free-hand!

No ocean too deep, no breeze too stiff, no mountain too high, no flight too far, or in short: no adventure too daring. Master Smith was forever young like Peter Pan and always out on the move like the legendary Flying Dutchman.

He was the strong silent type.

But all folks who traveled by his side remember his gritty smile and his witty mantra: “Mind the details, man.

Mind the details!”

Don’t miss Master Smith!

©olaftamm.de

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The Massimo Osti legacy ----------------

Ma . Strum ---------------

Massimo Osti, designer and creator of brands such as CP Company, Stone Island, Bonneville and Left Hand, founded Osti Studio in 1970. With the results of his experiments and new methods of fabric treatment, Massimo Osti revolutionized the industry until his death in 2005.

Now, Osti’s daughter Agata and his son Lorenzo do their utmost to continue their father’s legacy by collaborating with Donrad Duncan, former Creative Director at the Victorinox/Swiss Army line. The result of this collaboration: the highly innovative menswear collection MA.STRUM. MA.STRUM, which debuted in Fall/ Winter 09, features pieces inspired by

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the Massimo Osti Archive – a combination of the traditional Massimo Osti style with groundbreaking high-tech fabrics and high-tech design. In parts of the MA.STRUM collection, wearable technology is integrated into the fabrics or the embedded accessories.

The MA.STRUM principle is to provide products that combine qualities such as timelessness, functionality and beauty, and on the other hand to create cuts and styles that apply to a broad audience. With MA.STRUM, Donrad Duncan creates high-quality, functional clothes that are comfortable yet stylish, and continues the Massimo Osti legacy.

The B avarian origin al ----------------

Meindl ---------------

With a history of more than 300 years, Meindl produces mens and womens leatherwear collections and outdoor shoes in Kirchanschรถring, a small borough in the Bavarian province of Traunstein. The Meindl signature piece are the traditional Bavarian short leather pants, first tailored by Lukas Meindl in 1935.

Elaborately manufactured and artfully embroidered, the high-quality Meindl leather pants and garments are made of the best buckskin and with perfected craftsmanship, providing the best possible wearing comfort.

The Meindl style is inspired by the life in the Bavarian Alps, and Meindl prod-

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ucts convey this characteristic lifestyle throughout the world.

The unrestricted Meindl strive for best quality materials and timeless design, lasting for over three centuries now, continues to pay off: today, nearly 500 workers are producing Meindl outdoor boots and leatherwear, always respecting the Meindl tradition of craftsmanship and dedication to quality and service. Notwithstanding the traditional attitude, increasing attention is paid to environmental aspects such as the recyclability of the manufactured materials.

Meindl: a true Bavarian original keeping up with the times.

Knitwear design excellence ----------------

Morrison and Howlin’ ---------------

Ever since 1981, Morrison is reknown for producing high-quality knitwear, manufactured with great care by traditionally skilled craftsmen in the Scottish highlands. Each garment is handled individually and tenderly throughout its entire production, from the first precise stitch to the delicate pressing and folding.

Now, the second generation respects the tradition of the hand crafted finishing technique, but in order to

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innovate, they have created a new line: Howlin’. While the Morrison label will stay unaltered, the younger Howlin’ offers more room for fantasy in terms of shape and patterns.

From the design stage through to each area of manufacture, both Morrison and Howlin’ strive for the best, and successfully combine tradition with modern techniques to produce garments unparalleled in design excellence.

W orks of art ----------------

n.d.c. made by hand ---------------

In 2001, Arnaud Zannier and Enrique Corbi, who had both been in the shoe business for ten years already, decided to set out on their mission to provide the footwear industry with a new dimension in men’s and ladies footwear: n.d.c. made by hand. n.d.c., the French abbreviation for code name, nome de code, refers to the core element of the footwear and accessories brand’s philosophy: the product itself, artisan handcrafted with luxurious leathers carefully selected from the best tanneries in Europe.

Each n.d.c. made by hand collection is produced by employing a great variety of traditional materials and finishing techniques.

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The n.d.c. made by hand passion for shoes is reflected in their indispensable, rejuvenated classics for footwear enthusiasts that can truly be referred to as timeless works of art – these shoes are collector’s items out-living fashions, for all those seeking a style of understated individualism beyond trends.

The range was extended from shoes to bags, wallets, and accessories, all of them handmade, and sold in a number of the finest stores worldwide.

The n.d.c. made by hand success story proves that following the main principles of simplicity, quality, originality and constructional know-how result in true works of art.

The n aked truth about denim ----------------

Nudie Jeans Co ---------------

Nudie Jeans is a Swedish denim brand that started in 2001. They love jeans, a passion they share with everyone who mourns a pair of worn out jeans as a close friend. Besides denim, only leather has the ability to age so beautifully - formed by its user into a second skin. Your jeans live your lifestyle. The longer you wear them, the more character and attitude they get.

The Dry Selvage program is a special concept with Nudie Jeans’ best selvage denim. They have selected their highest denim qualities, denim with cashmere, with hemp and with organic cotton. These fabrics are made on old, narrow looms.

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All dry selvage jeans have the selvage edge coin pocket and silver trims.

Nudie Jeans’ four top-of-the-line qualities are delivered in handmade wooden boxes, containing the Nudie Jeans selvage book. Nudie Jeans Selvage Lab has focused on the washes where Nudie Jeans has a strong reputation: washes with a genuine feeling for the real authentic look of naturally worn in garments.

The Nudie Jeans Selvage Lab range is growing each season. This season, they offer two new washes, both of them replicas of old worn in jeans.

They will be delivered in a stone washed selvage denim bag with a book.

Inspired b y a gold miner ----------------

Pace Jeans ---------------

It is a small, yellowed photo, taken in 1913: two Swedish men in dirty gold miner clothes in Colorado, USA. One of them is Erik Svensson. He is wearing demin trousers and jacket, just as most gold miners did in those days.

Inspired by Erik Svensson’s workwear and life story, his grandsons Klas and Joakim Bonér were part of the Swedish team that founded the jeans label Pace Jeans in 2003. Their first range was launched in spring 2004.

Pace Jeans denim is produced the traditional vintage way on original shuttle looms in small mills around Osaka, Japan. The denim is a right hand twill, ring spun in warp and weft. Significant details include split side seams, chainstitching on hem, tab and patch in real leather, buttons with the Pace Jeans gearwheel logo in

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steel finish, antique copper YKK zippers, strengthened pocket openings on all models and rivets in real genuine copper. All denims are pre-shrunk.

The Pace Jeans design team is frequently joined by varying artists, including collaborations with Swedish painter John E Franzén or tattoo artist Sebastian, who contributed the Pace Jeans icon: a cartoon magpie.

Current highlight is the Pace Jeans limited premium line, in collaboration with the denim nerds Blue highway, featuring high quality retro fits in a very “goldminerish“ style with buckle backs and denim woven on traditional 29 inch looms with selvedge and hand casted rivets: a tribute to Klas’ and Joakim’s grandfather Erik Svensson, the gold miner.

Valverde classics ----------------

Primeboots ---------------

Valverde del Camino in Andalusia, Spain has been an old silver mining district for centuries already, its name derived from its green fields and its proximity to the “Silver Street”. Since the 19th century, the “banquilleros” of Valverde traditionally produce robust, resistant boots and shoes for hard work in the field, the mountains or in the silver mine.

In 1989, the company Valverdeña del Calzado S.L. created the Primeboots brand in Valverde. The Primeboots are still hand-crafted in the traditional Valverde style in two stages:

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first, the shaft, insole and leather welt are stitched together by the Goodyear seam. The second step in the production: welt and outsole are stitched together using the welt seam. This production process unites breathability and adaptation in a perfect fit.

Mens and womens Primeboots come in BikerUrban, Engineer, Western, Ranch Work, and Mountain-Adventure lines. They all share the high-quality hand-made manufacturing and the classic, timeless look that is typical of Primeboots.

Product with a purpose ----------------

Prps ---------------

Prps founder and creative director Donwan Harrell grew up in North Carolina and Virginia Beach, USA, in a logging and hunting family, appreciating the practical attire his family wore at work: every garment detail had its function, the clothes were products with a purpose. This inspired Harrell, so that when he founded his denim label in 2003, he named it Prps, short for product with a purpose, and continues to put great emphasis on the functionality of the jeans.

For the Prps jeans, only the finest organic cotton of the African continent is used, since it has a great capability of soaking up the indigo due to its crisp handle and irregular slub pattern.

The cotton is then shipped to Japan:

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admiring the Japanese for their craftsmanship, Harrell decided to have the Prps jeans produced by select Japanese denim manufacturers in small towns throughout Japan – master craftsmen whose experience has been passed down from generations before them. They produce the denim exclusively on vintage shuttle looms, resulting in what Prps proudly calls “the finest product available”.

Prps jeans are “bruised, not broken”: the distressing and aging process is regarded with immaculate attention to detail, and no two pairs of Prps jeans are alike. The result is as natural and authentic as possible, since it is the Prps objective to obtain the most realistically aged washed jean.

Timeless classics ----------------

Red Wing Shoes ---------------

Established by Charles H. Beckman in 1905 in the quiet river town of Red Wing, Minnesota, the Red Wing Shoes Company initially produced boots for soldiers and workers on farms, in oil fields and factories. The company soon developed a reputation for making tough and comfortable boots for tough and hard-working people: by 1915, production had reached 200,000 pairs of Red Wing Shoes annually. As working conditions evolved, and denim became more than workwear, so did the Red Wing Shoes styles. By 1985, production had reached 2 million pairs per year.

Today, Red Wing Shoes are sold in more than 100 countries. Thousands of pairs are produced each day mainly

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by hand with the Red Wing Leathers as signature components: only finest quality leather is used, every inch of it thoroughly inspected. Production still takes place in the town of Red Wing, Minnesota.

Red Wing Shoes have become authentic and genuine timeless classics, such as the Red Wing Engineer Boot that has stayed unchanged for decades.

The boots and shoes are both workwear and fashion: Red Wings work best with denim!

For over a century now, the Red Wing Shoes Company has stayed true to its strict commitment to the basic principles of style, quality, craftsmanship, durability and comfort.

A ustralian boo ts since 1932 ----------------

R.M. Williams ---------------

Born in 1908 on a farm in South Australia, Reginald Murray Williams crossed the Australian central western deserts while working as a camel boy for a missionary. During their trips, he learned valuable bush lore and survival skills from the aboriginal people and stockman skills from the stockmen of the desert fringe cattle stations. But it was meeting an itinerant saddler named Dollar Mick, who taught him the skills in leather working and crafting, that marked the true beginning of young R.M. Williams’ life’s work.

He set up his first small shoe factory in 1932, and over the following decades, the company grew rapidly, diversifying, apart from boots, into bush saddlery, equipment, moleskins, jeans and bush shirts: R.M. Williams became the bush outfitter, supplying

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everything essential to Australian life. The first R.M. Williams stores opened in 1978.

Today, the oil-impregnated riding, work and elastic boots are the backbone of the R.M. Williams business.

For their boots, only the best leathers are used, such as cowhide, “willow” (chrome tanned oxhide), yearling, and suede leather, just to name a few.

Undergoing 80 handheld processes, each R.M. Williams boot is comfortable, supple, and easily moulds to the foot. These high-quality, strong and durable boots feature welt soles with 21 defined features, and vegetabletanned leather insoles.

The uppers of the R.M. Williams boots are made from only one piece of leather, thereby producing the typical clean and classic lines.

A true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana ----------------

Schott NYC ---------------

A classic American success story: in 1913, Irving and Jack Schott, sons of Russian immigrants, started producing raincoats in a basement in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. After only two years, they opened a factory in Staten Island, NY, and soon Schott NYC claimed to be the first brand to “put a zipper on a jacket”. In 1928, Irving Schott designed and produced the first leather motorcycle jacket: the Perfecto, named after Irving Schott’s favourite cigar. The Perfecto was initially sold for $5.50 at a Long Island Harley Davidson distributor, When legendary actor Marlon Brando wore his Schott Perfecto in “The Wild Ones” in 1954, he turned the jacket

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into the favourite of a whole generation. It was associated with danger and excitement. Later, James Dean and his Perfecto became inseparable, furthering its iconic status – the Perfecto became a symbol of rebellion, and was temporarily even banned by schools.

Today, the fourth generation of the Schott family still produces the core of its range - now including, among leather jackets and motorcycle apparel, also a large range of cloth products and accessories - in the nearly 100 year old factory right of outside of New York City. Quality, innovation, and individuality remain the main principles of Schott NYC – a real American original.

Handmade in Germany since 189 6 ----------------

Seil Marshall ---------------

For over a century, Seil Marschall has been producing finest quality ropes, their range was gradualy extended to incorporate outdoor clothing, shoes and accessories. Taking pride in its hand-made quality, the small company from Bad Waldsee, Germany claims that their best machines are still their hands.

Seil Marschall invests a lot of time in the production, with quality and sustainability as the main principles.

Their outdoor clothing for hunting, leisure and adventure is made of loden from finest natural materials: wool or cashmere, Swiss cotton poplin or waxed cotton.

In the production of the hand-sewn moccasins and outdoor boots, the Seil Marschall shoe manufacture uses

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strictly vegetal tanned leather, real lambskin, and wool felt. The moccasins are completely lined with real lamb fur and have a natural crepe sole.

Every stitch is hand sewn without any compromises regarding quality and comfort.

This principle also applies to the bags, produced in the Seil Marschall saddlery: only linen from the best weaving mills, vegetal tanned leather, wool felt pads and brazen metal fittings are used.

This exceptional craftsmanship quality cannot be produced in great quantities due to the time-consuming dedication to detail, making the Seil Marschall products exclusive and valuable: timeless products for a lifelong use, not for waste.

Classic simplicity ----------------

Shabbies Amsterdam ---------------

For years, the Shabbies Amsterdam line has been a successful constant in the Fred de la Bretonière range. With its clear silhouettes, distinct profile and no-frills-style, this line enjoys growing success while constantly evolving.

Pure, strong and sturdy - the Shabbies Amsterdam style is characterized by classic simplicity.

Fred de la Bretonière has stayed true to the rugged look and robust and comfortable fit while experimenting with natural materials and colours each season.

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The current Shabbies Amsterdam series is the perfect balance of new shapes as well as timeless classics, and has been enriched with sturdy commando heels and wedged leather soles.

With Shabbies Amsterdam, Fred de la Bretonière shows his social responsibility as well: a part of the proceeds of each pair of Shabbies Amsterdam goes to Elvira’s Children Home in Nepal, which supports orphans in Kathmandu.

Since 19 0 4 ----------------

Spiewak ---------------

In 1904, Isaac Spiewak started selling handmade sheepskin vests in the streets of New York to the dock workers of Brooklyn and Manhattan.

When business grew, his sons joined him, and soon I. Spiewak & Sons Inc. became one of the premier names in uniform workwear for soldiers, police and firemen.

In 1919, the golden fleeced flying ram logo was introduced, playing on the sheepskin used and inspired by the “Quest for the Golden Fleece� from Greek mythology. The logo proved to be fitting, since the Spiewak quest was crowned with success: in the course of the last century, Spiewak became one

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of the biggest US workwear brands, known for its tough, enduring, and functional outerwear that shows maximum weather resistance even in the most unforgiving terrains on the globe.

Spiewak produces everything from arctic wear to military garments, and has stayed true to its authentic design, with the Spiewak Snorkel Parka remaining at the heart of the collection.

Today, Spiewak continues to sell its performance wear to industrial workers and its smart stylish fashion outerwear to a growing loyal community of Spiewak worshippers. The technical expertise of over 105 years has earned Spiewak a status that is truly iconic.

it’s no t just a hat, it’s the hat.

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Stetson ---------------

With just $60 in his pocket, John B. Stetson started hat manufacturing in Philadelphia in 1865. Trained by his father, a famous hatter, Stetson followed his motto “make things right and the best they can be” and produced felt hats such as his now legendary “Boss of the Plains” hat with growing success: Stetson hats became so popular among cowboys that the word Stetson became synonymous for cowboy hat.

No other hat embodied the rugged American Western spirit better.

Soon, sales exploded, and at the beginning of the 20th century, Stetson belonged to the world’s most popular hat brands.

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Until to today, Stetson has been able to keep its renowned reputation for legendary premium quality hats and has also extended the range. While earlier, Stetson represented the cowboy hat, nowadays, the collection includes not only authentic Westernwear, but also rugged Actionwear, contemporary Streetwear and elegant classics.

For over 140 years now, Stetson has stayed true to its authentic roots and the rugged image, while always innovating products and yet adhering to the core characteristics of the brand: authentic, honest, American, quality, rugged and individual.

The perfect shirt ----------------

Steven Alan ---------------

The native New Yorker Steven Alan has been a leader in the fashion world on different levels: starting in 1994 as a retailer with stores in downtown Manhattan, he quickly earned a reputation as the curator of new, edgy fashion among his artistic young customers that were looking for original and unique clothing.

Since 1999, Steven Alan has been creating menswear - his shirts are a twist on the classic button down but with subtle details, perfect tailoring and an intricate washing process.

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Only limited edition fine cotton fabrics, handpicked by Steven himself, are used.

Apart from the famous button down shirts, the Steven Alan range is now extended to mens and womens collections and includes cashmere sweaters as well as suiting, shoes, dresses, outerwear, and accessories, and is sold in the best shops worldwide.

Call it what you want, the Reverse Seam Button Down, Steven Alan’s signature piece, is just that: the perfect shirt!

The richness of hist ory ----------------

T.K. Garment Supply ---------------

Together with Japanese designers Hiroyuki Tange and Yasuhiro Matsuo, Hiroyuki Takeuchi, owner and founder of Takeuchi-Shoten Co LTD, created T.K. Garment Supply in Fukui, Japan, in 2005.

The designers meticulously collect vintage materials from all over the world, such as delicate silk trimmed from parachutes or vintage leather riding reigns. With these exceptional, 100% vintage materials steeped in history, they create the unique T.K. Garment supply products in their exclusive handmade artisan process.

The result: a trench made of weathered canvas, sheltering its wearer from the rain just as it once provided shelter

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as an army tent in the mid-century, or tote bags made of weathered cotton with historical buckhorn details and aged wood culled from fallen ancient buildings.

The quality of the T.K. Garment Supply items can be felt, every seam is an inventive work of art. No machine can reproduce the richness of history, character and charm that the expert craftsmen fashion into every T.K. Garment Supply piece.

The T.K. Garment Supply products are a perfect balance between tradition, reinvention and imagination: every piece has a story of its “first life� to tell, a poetic dimension to be discovered.

The Emperor’s New Cl o thes ----------------

Ten C ---------------

An Emperor who cares for nothing but his wardrobe hires two weavers who promise him the finest suit of clothes from a fabric invisible to anyone who is unfit for his position or just hopelessly stupid.

The Emperor cannot see the cloth himself, but pretends that he can for fear of appearing unfit for his position or stupid; his ministers do the same.

When the swindlers report that the

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suit is finished, they dress him in mime and the Emperor then marches in procession before his subjects. A child in the crowd calls out that the Emperor is wearing nothing at all and the cry is taken up by others. The Emperor cringes, suspecting the assertion is true, but holds himself up proudly and continues the procession.

(A short tale by Hans Christian Andersen)

Feel good Preppy ----------------

Velour ---------------

Gothenburg, Sweden, in 1997: Per Andersson rummaged through the old ready-to-wears of his grandmother’s store, which had closed in the mid1980s after 50 years of business.

Convinced that the clothes were too beautiful to simply gather dust in the corner of a warehouse, Per opened the vintage shop Nostalgi in Gothenburg together with his friends to sell his grandmother’s stock.

Nostalgi quickly became the forum for the Gothenburg art scene, selling, along with the garments from Per’s grandmother’s ready-to-wear store, also re-makes, art, and design objects.

Inspired by their creative customers, Per Andersson and his friends decided to design their own clothes under the

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name “Velour” in 2002. In 2005, the first Velour collection was launched.

The Velour style is a classic preppy look with traditional garments redesigned in a new stylish yet effortless way: Velour calls it “Feelgood Preppy”, inspired by Gothenburg’s main influences: the sea, the harbour and the underground music scene.

Velour mens and womens cardigans, check shirts, parkas and waxed coats come in muted colours with daring accents. Many of the Velour shirts and cotton dresses are made from organic cotton. Beautiful bags and shoes complete the range, addressed to curious, reflective customers who value individually reinterpreted trends.

Confident understatement ----------------

windsor. men ---------------

If you are an individualist, freespirited but level-headed, windsor. is your choice.

Style, not fashion, is the value principle of the German premium brand, originally set up in 1889 as the Roos & Kahn gentlemen’s clothing factory in Bielefeld, Germany by the two businessmen Leo Roos and Isidor Kahn.

For over a century now, the brand has continued to create its high-quality, elegant men’s collections for discerning, confident connoisseurs who value distinctive cuts. The name windsor., paying homage to English luxury fabrics, was established in 1960.

In 1977, the range was extended by a windsor. women collection that quickly

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established itself as an independent superior label.

The result of windsor.’s strive for perfection and best quality: innovative and exclusive products, created with premium Italian fabrics, timeless yet modern classics with a causal touch.

The windsor. coats, trousers, jackets, suits and sports jackets stand out due to their tailoring perfection and attention to detail.

Throughout the years, windsor. has always stayed true to its original philosophy of combining craftsmanship with design, roots with progress, and quality with aesthetics. windsor. is not a fashion label but a lifestyle statement.

Since 18 83 ----------------

Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection ---------------

In 1883 G.A. Krause, coming from a long line of leather tanners and boot makers, built the company Wolverine World Wide, Inc. in Rockford, Michigan on his dream of producing finely crafted footwear using the best materials.

His best seller was the Wolverine 1000 Mile Shoe introduced in 1914, which combined classic design and function.

Soon, the company became one of the first nationally advertised boot brands of the USA, telling “gentlemen and farmers” of their shell-horsehide boots comfortable enough to walk 1,000 miles in them.

With the 1000 Mile Collection, Wolverine now honours its heritage, based on the objectives of comfort, durability, function and style. Vintage

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inspiration and distinctive detailing are main features of the welt constructed 1000 Mile Boots, the cornerstone of the collection. Also featured in the 1000 Mile Collection are the Gentleman collection, inspired by “original workingman” designs from the early 1930’s and 1940s, the Garrison Collection, inspired by work and military boot designs, and the Gentry Collection, inspired by traditional field boots, showcasing Wolverine’s history of creating high-end hunting and outdoor boots.

All 1000 Mile Collection models are based on original designs from the Wolverine archives, and continue Wolverine’s century-long heritage of providing comfort and durability.

NOTES ---------------

l.o .c.k.

Labels of common Kin BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN SEE YOU IN SUMMER 2010!

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www.breadandbutter.com/lock ---------------