Tradeshow Guide BIG TIME by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG

Issue Nº 1 — BREAD & BUTTER, 15–17 January 2013

big time b r a n d s ˙ T r e n d s ˙ P e o p l e ˙ C u lt u r e

tradeshow Guide

welcome BREAD & BUTTER â&#x20AC;&#x201C; tradeshow for selected brands

to the bold & the brave

bread & Beur Airport b

HALL 1

HALL 2

legend Restaur ant

Cash point

Café

Shut tle Stop

Bar

Visitor Shut tle 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.

Wardrobe Metro Massage B&B Publications Info Point Toilets Toilets for disabled Main Entr ance/Exit Ticket Scan Exhibitor Entr ance

Parking fixed prices &B Airport & B Cit y Shut tle 3.30 p.m. – 7.30 p.m. Destinations: TXL Tegel, SXF Schönefeld, S+U Alexanderplatz every 30 minutes Ta xi T. +49 (0)30 26 10 26 T. +49 (0)30 44 33 22 T. +49 (0)30 20 20 20

Technical Office Gener al Aviation Terminal

PL LUF

First Aid/Erste Hilfe T. +49 (0)30 816 90 13 90

U-Bhf. Pl atz der Luftb

utter berlin

rlin-tempelhof

NTRANCE EXIT

LATZ DER FTBRÜCKE

brücke

opening times Tuesday, 15 January 2013 Wednesday, 16 January 2013 Thursday, 17 January 2013

10 a.m. – 7 p.m. 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.

wi-fi connection Get online with B&B Wi-Fi! Wireless internet access throughout the B&B exhibition area. Login: WiFi network: BIG TIME Username: bbb Password: berlin

welcome

A BOLD & A BRAVE WELCOME For some of the B&B Community 2013 marks an important year: iconic brand Schott NYC reaches its centenary, Fred Perry just turned sixty, Pepe Jeans London celebrates its fortieth birthday, Bologna based WP Lavori In Corso proudly looks back on thirty years and so does G-Shock. Not to forget our friends from WAD Magazine — the “Frenchies” turn fifteen and have prepared for a stunning issue Nº 55 on this occasion. We’d like to say CONGRATULATIONS to all of you! In addition to these special features the B&B Tradeshow Guide provides you with background information, trend highlights for fall/winter 2013 and other relevant topics around BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN and this beautiful community who “the tradeshow for selected brands” is so proud of. Thus… sit back, read and enjoy BIG TIME!

for the bold & Brave brands

5 Karl-Heinz Müller President BREAD & BUTTER

BIG TIME

fter an eventful season BREAD & BUTTER welcomes you to its BIG TIME edition which is dedicated to the bold & the brave. Boldness and braveness — essential qualities in times like these. In accordance with this seasonal motto B&B has seen considerable changes — necessary changes to resist the challenges of a market which moves as fast as never: overall concept, brand portfolio as well as the hall layouts have been significantly modified to the benefit of all parties involved. The result is a strong international offer of leading brands and promising concepts and labels — focused, substantial and rich in content. The areas UPPER STREET, D.O.C.K., URBAN FASHION, URBAN BASE, TREASURY, URBAN SUPERIOR, L.O.C.K. and Fire Department at L.O.C.K. have prepared for the best in street & urban wear overall. As every season the B&B Tradeshow Guide provides its readers with information and news about the “tradeshow for selected brands”. B&B in a nutshell — it’s a comprehensive overview on what’s hot in the contemporary clothing culture. Being an inexhaustible source of inspiration the B&B Community has many stories to tell — remarkable stories about street & urban, about brands, companies and people. Please join us in meeting remarkable personalities like WP’s Creative Director, passionate Andrea Canè, the influential streetwear designer Hiroshi Fujiwara or denim weaver Alberto Candiani who runs the family business in the 4th generation. The B&B Tradeshow Guide takes you to Japan to make you discover some of the most coveted brands and labels which are the incarnation of high-end manufacturing. At this point I’d like to take the opportunity to thank the team of Clutch magazine for contributing to this piece. Clutch is also the curator of a B&B’s latest brainchild: Concept Room has its premiere this January. Dedicated to Japan it will present ten Japanese brands being the epitome of supreme workmanship. Don’t miss the opportunity to dive into this world of perfection!

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DISCLAIMER The B&B Tradeshow Guide is published by BREAD & butter GmbH & Co. KG, Münzstraße 13, 10178 Berlin, Germany. Contributions, in which the author or company is named, do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. Place of jurisdiction is Berlin, Germany.

Editor in chief Danielle De Bie executive EDITOR Henrik Kürschner CREATIVE DIRECTion Robert Dizdarevic´ ART DIRECTion Alexander Groth GRAPHIC DESIGN & Layout Bettina Lommatzsch, Diana Sanusi, Bruno Kolberg, Tobias Wenig

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PHOTOS Ingo Robin

BIG TIME

PR & COMMUNICATION Danielle De Bie BREAD & BUTTER FOR CHARITY Christoph Berger ADVERTISING SALES Christoph Berger, Sebastian Hennecke, Mika Moriyama JOB ADVERTISING Mika Moriyama ADVERTISING SERVICES Christine Gerlach

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content bread & butter berlin BIG TIME

e tradeshow guid

t n e t n o c Welcome 5 Partners & Imprint 6 Culture Hustle & Bustle at Kudamm 10 BRANDS Gitta Plotnicki 16 BRANDS Ludwig Reiter 18 BRANDS Roeckl 19 BRANDS WP Lavori 20 BRANDS Clarks 22 BRANDS Aigle 23 BRANDS Barbour 24 BRANDS Dickies 26 BRANDS Eastpack 27 BRANDS adidas originals 28 BRANDS New Balance 30 BRANDS Carhartt 31 BRANDS G-Shock 32 BRANDS Fred Perry 34 Culture Superior Quality — The foundation of made in Japan products Brands & Culture Pedaled 38 Brands & Culture Evisu 40 Brands & Culture Midori 41 Brands & Culture Cledran 42 Brands & Culture Brown’s Beach Jacket 43 Brands & Culture Superior Labor 44 Brands & Culture Rocky Mountain Featherbed 45 Brands & Culture The Real Mc’Coys 46 Brands & Culture One Green Elephant 47 People Hiroshi Fujiwara 48 Brands Edwin 52 Brands The Flathead 54 Brands Prps 55 Brands Pepe Jeans London 56 Brands AG Adriano Goldschmied 58 Brands Levi’s Vintage Clothing 59 Brands Hilfiger Denim 60 Brands Napapijri 62 Brands Care Label 63 Brands Candiani 64 BreaD & Butter for Charity 66 Culture *folorunsho 70

content

Little Marcel 72 Brands Paperwallet 73 Brands Tiger of Sweden 74 Brands Minus Minimum 76 Brands Modström 77 Brands Kaffe 78 Brands Samsøe Samsøe 79 Brands Urbane Looks 80 Brands Liu Jo 88 Brands Lili Radu 89 Brands ESK Cashmere 90 Brands Armor Lux 91 Brands Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. Brands Schott NYC x American College USA Culture The Mission Manx 96 Brands Canada Goose 100 Brands Pendleton Woolen Mills 101 Brands Rising Sun 102 TRENDS Steampunk 104 TRENDS Trend forecast Autumn/Winter 2013 Brands Pijama 112 Brands Nice Things 113 Brands FTC Cashmere 114 Brands La Fée Maraboutée 115 Brands Quayeyewear Australia 116 Brands Popup Paris 117 Culture WAD Magazine 118 Brands Underground 120 Brands Rascals’ 121 Brands Camel Active 122 Brands Redgreen 124 Brands Massif Collection 125 Brands Gestuz 126 Brands Confezioni Crosby 128 Brands Juju Shoes 130 Brands Cuckoos Nest 132 Brands Buffalo 133 Job Recruitments 136 Brands

Enclosed booklet

for the bold & Brave brands

106

9 BIG TIME

Areas, Brands & Maps

92 94

culture

Ku’damm is an avenue of exaggeration, a place with no room for moderation. Everything displays its extreme side here.

hustle & bustle at ku’damm By ulf poschardt

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

ven on sunny days, the most famous, most dubious boulevard in Berlin (if not Germany) is a mix of the most elegant and the most horrific, the most subtle and the most vulgar. This is where elegant women in Yves-Saint-Laurent outfits walk past earnestly gawking Eastern European-looking car dealers whose jeans are so ripped, dyed and covered with Gucci-PradaSport-whatever labels, that you could mistake them for a damaged advertising billboard. On Georg-Grosz-Platz at the heart of the boulevard, its architecturally prettiest and sweetest spot, the street is populated by a parallel world of figures whose physiognomy lie in the tradition of the caricatures who made the square’s namesake so famous as the chronicler of the wild, dark and evil Berlin. Here you can see rough faces, bad manners and noisy banter in every language of the world and if it wasn’t all so overdone, one would be more shocked than entertained. Here the flaneur immediately recognises the garish face of contemporary capitalism: rapidly earned money meets badly earned money and, in a rather comic fashion, mingles with a scene that wants to look as if it came from old money.

brands

gitta plotnicki

WISHING ON A STAR By danielle de bie

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

o-called “rugged wear” has long been talked about — the erstwhile utilitarian clothes of long-gone days have made it into the wardrobes of the style-conscious. Adopted early and strongly influenced by the Japanese, this particular style is becoming more and more popular amongst sophisticated aficionados in the Western world. A new generation is paying attention to quality and detail and wants more than just a fancy label in the collar to show off or an off-the-peg suit. “Suit”… it’s exactly in this term that the devil’s in the detail; this style was first and foremost reserved to the “gentlemen of the creation”. It was in summer 2012 that a lady from Berlin set out to prove that “rugged vintage wear” is for women too and has all the right qualities to be feminine! With her first signature collection, Gitta Plotnicki succeeded in creating the female counterpart to the supposed men’s style by showing how feminine masculinity could be. Above all stands Gitta’s appreciation for the finer things of life, which is ex-

brands

☛ Find us at fire dept. at l.o.c.k. — fd 11

for the bold & Brave brands

swank. Away from crude and bold logos, Gitta Plotnicki represents this new, subtle kind of luxury. It’s the preferred luxury of self-confident women who don’t need to show off. In winter 2013 Gitta Plotnicki’s second collection sees the light of day. Once again she shows how well opposites attract: the rough and the tough in perfect combination with delicate and gentle elements. The result is a small and comprehensive collection of twenty-six garments which represent everything Gitta stands for: the finer things in life. The heart of the fall/ winter collection is a midnight blue suit — blazer and waistcoat in combination with pants or skirt — made of solid wool from Japan. A woollen waistcoat and blazer in traditional Rugby stripes, one jacket, four shirts, two shirt dresses, several knits as well as some accessories as perfect complements. Not to be forgotten: the ten t-shirt styles in collaboration with Merz b. Schwanen — knits and jerseys traditionally made in Swabia on original circular knitting machines dating back to the mid19th century — “made in Germany” as a crucial feature to guarantee the maximum quality. There are so many reasons to fall in love with Gitta Plotnicki’s collection. Stars guided mankind for many thousands of years, and they still do so today. So if you look for Gitta Plotnicki, watch out for her signature feature, the little red star. It can be found in the collar label — woven on traditional Jaquard looms from the 19th century… what else would you expect?

17 BIG TIME

pressed in her collection as perfection itself. The secret lies in the details: precious materials, handiwork and meti culous workmanship — qualities that far exceed the usual standards and that represent true values. Her painstaking search for the choicest fabrics often takes her to Japan or to Lyon, the former French stronghold of silk production and weaving. The fabrics originate almost exclusively from traditional manufacturers; some are made using the “red selvage” process in family run businesses. Gitta Plotnicki revives several production methods, like the 350-year-old blueprint which was used on her beautiful silk scarves. The scarves bear stars. And, just as expected, these were printed by hand. A star also adorns her fine leather belts which resulted from the collaboration with “Dukes — Finest Vintage Artisan” — a red star painted by hand on vegetable-tanned leather. It’s these details that make the difference. Gitta Plotnicki is synonymous for high-class workmanship. Her beautiful garments are timeless and free of any

brands

Ludwig reiter

n o i t i d a r t f o e r futu By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

radition is like a lantern. The dumb ones cling to it, while the bright ones are enlightend.” A saying by the late George Bernard Shaw, which is one of the key sentences in the company of Ludwig Reiter. It is as ever so often a company where quality ist he key to everything, it is their style as well as everything handmade with Love and Soul that distinguishes them from their competitors. Having started out in the late eighteen hundreds Ludwig Reiter is still Family owned. With great success. Welt-sewn shoes will always outlast other “normal” and will always bring that special feeling that you get from something made just for you. Besides all that they have a wonderful line of high end leather goods and accessoires that look

for competition in the back mirror as they are second to almost none. Vienna, the home of Ludwig Reiter, is and always was a City with loads of history and they are here just to contribute to the rich past oft hat wonderful city that has a slight morbid touch to itself, but in a very artistic and said enlightening way. Tradition is not something you think they would file into Museum and keep it the way it always was, they are always working on their manual production techniques, new interpretations and adaptions for the very Zeitgeist. Always put the customer first and adapt to his needs and keep the Ludwig Reiter Motto always high as it says: The future of tradition.

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 25.2

e l b a s n e p s i d n i e r a s e v o Gl

brands

roeckl

interview By thomas Klein

Annette Roeckl

How do you keep those standards? Most of our products are made in our own production facilities, that guarantees that traditional techniques and the knowhow required is used, kept

Gloves have been a sign of status, a fashion statement, a functional accessory. Where are they right now? Nowadays, accessories are becoming more and more important again in creating a unique, individual look, in adding a truly personal touch. We are quite happy with this renaissance of sorts; since the Seventies gloves were long perceived in strictly functional terms. But accessories have regained their importance in a fashion context. Gloves today are an important, indispensable styling element again. What’s next for Roeckl in 2013? Apart from classic products we’re adding new, innovative items like our “Roeckl Intelligence” or “Bottle Bag” lines that were created with pioneering materials and with sustainability in mind. Inspired by the mystical landscapes of Iceland we managed to create an Autumn collection characterized by powerful colors and shapes, reflecting both the beauty of Icelandic nature and their hidden world of elves and fairies.

☛ Find us at Urban superior hall 1 — H5 23.2

for the bold & Brave brands

Roeckl has been around since 1839. What made the company endure this long? That the company is still owneroperated after six generations definitely plays an important role. But it’s also about the bridging tradition and modernity, our products combine timeless design, creativity and innovation with over 170 years of craftsmanship. What defines us as a brand is passion and a commitment never to compromise on quality. That is the unifying characteristic in all areas, from design to production and distribution.Therefore, Roeckl enjoys an excellent reputation on an international level — for producing items that are special, of superior quality, perfectly manufactured and highly reliable.

alive and passed on. Roeckl has always been synonymous with authenticity and craftsmanship.

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ounded in the 19th century by Jakob Roeckl, Munich-based company Roeckl is well known for it’s high-quality gloves, bags and other fashion accessories. Annette Roeckl took over the family business in 2003: Under her as CEO the company continues to grow as a brand at home as well as abroad but keeps traditional manufacturing techniques alive.

Brands

wp lavori in corso

Steve McQueen in his Barbour jacket

heritage IDOLS AL DENTe Paul Weller in his Baracuta jacket

By danielle de bie

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

ade in Italy“ is a seal of quality to this date; more than ever when it comes to fashion. There couldn’t be any better example than the Bologna based WP Lavori In Corso to show to what extend this term can be taken seriously. Established in 1982 by Giuseppe Calori and his daughter Cristina, today’s president of the company, WP set out to enter new territories. Determined and driven by their ever pioneering spirit, passion and their conviction WP took the risk to walk aside the common fashion sense. Their success proves them right: WP Lavori In Corso celebrates its 30 years; three decades - just a snatch in a lifetime but an eternity in the fast moving fashion business where change is a golden rule. They’ve known it better!

WP have perfectly understood to give change a new notion and proved many times that alterations, used in the right way, represent a constant value indeed. A search for traces… The early eighties mark the start of a new era in Italian clothing culture: functional elements that were previously reserved to outdoor and athletic wear found their way into fashion. And thanks to the notorious Italian sense of style a new look was born; a look blending a taste of Americana with this typical Italian chic. Alongside this development Giuseppe and Cristina Calori founded WP in 1982. Three years of continuous travelling are at the beginning: researching the right international collections, securing the licensing rights to seve

Brands Above: WP Anniversary book – 30 Years of Research in Style

ral key brands, creating new distribution and retail channels. Their stated aim: make the finest international brands accessible throughout Italy and Europe. Woolrich John Rich & Bros., Woolen Mills, Penn-Rich, B.D. Baggies, Babour, Bluntstone, and their latest acquisition, the iconic brand British Baracuta are just a few examples to be named here. By opening their first store in Bologna in 1985 WP made history: the store is a milestone — not only in their own success story but also when it comes to what we call “concept stores” today. High-end fashion was shown alongside functional and work inspired heritage brands — many of them totally unknown in Europe at that time. The brands were displayed in their particular universe — outdoor, adventure, safari… each brand in the right context. Second-hand furniture enhanced the histo-

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 3.1

21 BIG TIME

Vintage Blundstone advertisement

ry aspect and the warmth of the heritage brands — WP’s heart and soul. Heart and soul. And passion — essential ingredients in everything they do at WP. It’s their lifeblood. Andrea Canè’s too. WP’s Creative Director has been with the company from the very start. Like Giuseppe and his daughter Cristina, he used to be a “jack of all trades” until he became WP’s buyer, the job he still likes most. Being a buyer made him travel the world and let him discover different cultures and interesting people — fundamental influences, crucial role models. He’s a learner — never tired and always curious he listens, observes and absorbs impressions like a sponge. And he’s a teacher — he always has his finger on the pulse of time, develops strategies and concepts to provide his customers access to the beauty of WP’s products. Some of these products have become fashion icons, like the world-famous Woolrich Arctic Parka — a winter without it is hardly imaginable! When WP started selling it in 1985 a mere six pieces were sold — Andrea Canè himself bought one. He still wears the same beige Parka today, but… meanwhile app. 50.000 pieces pass over the world’s shop counters each season, the men’s version only. It takes a lot to make a supposed utilitarian garment such a success! WP, these treasure hunters from Bologna, had everything that’s needed: a strong understanding and a clear vision about authenticity, relevance and quality to bridge this gap between heritage and fashion. WP has the talent to find the right recipe and to perfectly balance the main ingredients: traditional qualities and features which correspond to today’s tendencies — to be served “al dente”, at the very perfect moment.

for the bold & Brave brands

Left: Andrea Canè in his 30 year old Arctic Parka

brands

clarks

e s o h t t e g u o y d i d e r e h w By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

istening on the iPod to some classic tunes played by Martha Reeeves and the Vandellas, Lynn Collins, Syl Johnson and some Don Thomas, wearing a wonderful M65 Fishtail Parka with Wigan Casino Patches. The Hair is Slick and I am on my way out, wearing the finest shoes England has to offer. Clarks desert boots. It is heaven to wear a pair and I feel more comfortable than ever and as I pour the Talcum on the dancefloor I know I will be the dancer that I want to be, looking as sharp as I probably could and as I spin my Clarks sit right on my feet and everybody knows I am on fire tonight. Clarks are more than a shoe, they are a revolution. They are “the off-beat casual for up-beat intellectuals.” Nathan Clark’s family said it would hardly ever sell: but the suede boot he came up with in 1949 has

sold more than twelve million times already and it is still going. Nathan Clark is now 92 and is still trying new things with shoes, stating that maybe “I will get another one like the desert boot” and maybe, just maybe, he will. Also maybe he will get someone to tell him that he created what only few people can and will do, a wearable time caspule. A time capsule that has survived unaltered to this very day. It is a huge burden to have on your shoulders, a really huge one to keep going with this heritage in mind but Clarks always rises to the task at hand and keeps upping the ante. New colours keep on coming, leathers are treated in different ways and even flourescent colours play a role these days, because growing up also means keeping it alive. KTF, as the Mods like to say, keep the faith.

☛ Find us at Upper street — H2 10.2

h s i t e F r Ru b b e

brands

Aigle

parisiennes, the then fashionable raincoat. A jump into the seventies and we see a big Brand that is about to offer more tahn just rubber boots, as they climb into sports fashion with the now classic white striped sailor boot which sailors are wearing still today. Another step ahead close into the now, Aigle a well known Brand and they are doing things different these day. With Campagains that still raise eyebrows and Photoshoots that are so very something else since they come with the slogan that if you wear Aigle you are in Nature as if you are a part oft he scene. Which is too true, as you can experience everything in Aigle and wont get wet, don’t catch a cold but still are a integral part of your surrounding. Aigle has maybe one oft he longest histories of making rubber boots but they put all their knowledge into it, which is good fort he future and us the guys that wear it.

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 23.2

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t is an old tale and it as fun as your age, it will always be fun. You know what we are talking about? Not yet? Well, let us tell you. Jumping into a puddle, with both legs straight into it, no holds barred. See how the puddle empties and it splashes all over the place, everybody around you will see how much fun you have and be disgruntled as they have to live with splashes on themselves. Why? Because you are wearing rubber boots, the ones that keep your feet dry and warm, in weather like this. Rubber boots have always been around but Aigle manages put the special into the special boot. Since the mid eigtheenhundreds, when Hiram Hutchinson and Charles Goodyear are talking business. They want to make Clothes from one of their favorite plants, the weeping tree, or as we come to know it the rubber tree. Their idea is to produce waterproof shoes and as they come to france in 1853 they are all over it. Waterproof shoes and their Trademark “A L’Aigle” soon are becoming the mentioined Trademark for chique

for the bold & Brave brands

By henrik Kürschner

brands

Barbour

A British brand to the core By sebastian schmid

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

he highest quality production, the association to the British countryside with charm, wit, glamour and more than 100 years of tradition to boot — united in a functional, stylish clothing line. That’s how you could crudely summarise what’s special about the Barbour brand. The brand is a textbook example of the English style of life. Whenever things get essentially British, Barbour’s not far away — not surprising since the company was appointed official supplier to the Royal family for the first time in 1974. And on the big screen, Barbour jackets are an important artefact in the portrayal of British culture: whether it’s Helen Mirren as Queen Elisabeth II or Daniel Craig as James Bond in Skyfall.

brands

These jackets won’t leave anyone out in the rain It probably has something to do with the mixture of longevity, functionality but also a certain restraint that plays a role with Barbour, without ever losing its aura of sophistication. Or as journalist Violetta Simon from Süddeutsche Zeitung explained, regarding the legendary wax jacket, one of the most prestigious articles of clothing from the traditional British label: “What’s special about the wax jacket with the corduroy collar? Nothing. And everything. That’s the secret. With its earthy tones, it’s got its feet on the ground and doesn’t scream: ‘Look at how great I am.’ Instead, it concentrates on its main function and won’t let its wearer get wet in the rain. And it’s attractive as ever. And so elegant. Even though it comes straight from the village.”

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 23.1 (Menswear) & URBAN SUPERIOR HALL 1 — H5 29 (Ladieswear)

25 BIG TIME

Iconic designs, materials and patterns The company, now in its fifth Barbour generation, has been fulfilling these standards of longevity and style since its foun-ding in 1894 in the northern English harbour city of South Shields by John Barbour. In more than 100 years of company history, Barbour has brought out many models that went on to become true classics — whether in traditional British countrywear, motorcycle clothing or uniforms. A document of this history and an endless source of inspiration for new developments is the brand’s vast archive. Here one finds all of treasures such as the Riding Cape from 1920, the International Motorcycle All In One Suit from 1936 that was specially designed for the International Six Day Trails (ISDT), or the Original Green International Jacket from 1951. Of course the current product line is no longer restricted to iconic jacket designs. Every year Barbour introduces more than 2000 items in its two collections. Alongside jackets and coats, one also finds trousers, shirts, blouses, knitwear as well as a broad selection of accessories that are presented in the various collections — from classic and heritage to the lifestyle and the sporting segment.

for the bold & Brave brands

“Rewax it like a faithful friend” Then take the example of the Classic Beaufort Jacket: the threads are impregnated, the stitches double rolled and secured, the buttons made of solid brass and covered in a weather-proof coating and the zip is corrosion-proof — the relationship between a Barbour jacket and its wearer is all about longevity. Which is how the Barbour wax jackets came to embody English tradition. As did the ritual of rewaxing, the recoating of a wax jacket. Because if you want something to last for a long time, whether a friendship, a marriage or a jacket, you need to take care of it. And if you do it the right way, you can enjoy it for a lifetime Or in the words of Barbour: “Rewax your jacket regularly and like a faithful friend, it will remain with you for a lifetime.” A jacket like that will never leave you out in the rain — whether you're out on the hunt or anywhere else.

brands

DICKIES

r a e w k r o W m o Fr r a e w t e to Stre By Sebastian Schmid

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

hen really tough men from almost all branches of industry wear certain pieces of clothing for their demanding work, it’s the best assurance of quality a brand can hope for. The simplicity, the timeless, classic forms, the robust workmanship and the functionality — these are the things that define workwear by Dickies — and explain its popularity that extends far beyond oil companies and auto repair shops. Because at the end of the day, through the blend of toughness and classic cuts, the Dickies brand was one of the trailblazers of the introduction of classic workwear into so many fields of popular culture — from music to skateboarding. The foundation for Dickies’ status was laid by the workwear pioneers C.N. Williamson and E.E. “Colonel” Dickie in the year 1918 when they launched the U.S. Overall Company. Four years later the Williamson family bought all of the compa-

ny’s shares and renamed the firm the WilliamsonDickie Manufacturing Company. From that point on the company was able to enjoy continual growth in the workwear segment, only temporarily slowed by the Great Depression and the Second World War. Since the 1950s, with its expansion into Europe and the Middle East, the firm has been active internationally and has developed into the worldwide number one provider of branded work apparel. The brand’s product line has introduced many timeless classics that have been adopted by all kinds of subcultures and paved the way for Dickies’ relevance in the streetwear scene today — from its classic work shirt with or without name tag as we know from American auto repair shops to the legendary Eisenhower Jacket or the tough-as-nails, unbreakable Original 874® Workpant.

☛ Find us at Upper street — H2 21.3

k c a p d a o r e h t Hit

brands

EASTPAK

after all of these years, Eastpak products still carry a 30 year guarantee. Right now, more and more interesting cooperations are coming on the market, including one with Wood Wood, a design conglomerate from Denmark, and one with Kris van Assche, a Belgian designer who caused a stir at the side of Hedi Slimane. Eastpak has never rested on its laurels, but always made a point of moving forward, propelling the brand ahead, allowing it to occupy one of the premiere positions in the world of bags and backpacks. This is what sets Eastpak apart from other bags: an idea and the courage to carry out the idea. Eastpak was born to go the extra mile.

☛ Find us at Urban base — A 56

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anting and having are couple who like to go hand-in-hand. Wanting is one thing and I usually don’t want what I can have. When it comes to Eastpak products it’s no different, because I can have them and I want to have them because the bags last forever and you usually buy a new one because there’s a new trend and not because the bag fell to pieces. Here different worlds come together: artists, designers and people from public life meet Eastpak in order to explore new paths, without ever losing sight of quality. The label was born in 1960 and first manufactured rucksacks for military use. Around 15 years later they began making backpacks for normal consumers, always with an eye on quality which is why,

for the bold & Brave brands

By henrik Kürschner

brands

adidas originals

Originals Blue

Interview By Thomas klein

Originals BLUE

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

aving operated his own label for five years before joining Joop! in 2007, Dirk Schönberger started working for adidas in the summer of 2010. The 46 years old designer handles a variety of the company’s brands and sub departments, including the popular Originals line, but also Y3, adidas SLVR, Porsche Design Sport und Neo collections. His approach to mixing classic styles with high fashion can best seen in the adidas Originals BLUE collection that brings some serious runway fashion heft to traditional adidas styles with its straightforward cuts and patterned fabrics. Pioneering retro designs with the Originals line had a serious impact on the business, with almost all competitors today having similar themed product lines. Is the old-skool pie big

enough for all business-wise? Is there a danger of saturation? There is always a danger of saturation if we keep on only riding the heritage/retro wave. We have been evolving for a while now… and will continue to do so. With our Originals BLUE collection we target a much more fashion forward consumer. Generally, within Originals we don’t only rely on the past, but develop new looks, true to the brand and not from our archives… and still: we are the original. We are proud of our heritage — in a sense, we started sportswear as we know it today. BTW — what’s the timeline for a product how long does it take from conception and design to production? How does the selection process for a product work? It varies from product to product and collection to collection. And the end of the day, we are always striving to be ahead of the curve in terms of conception, design and production, mixing archival silhouettes with contemporary design.

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The Originals Blue collection for spring/summer with it’s patterned fabrics and straightforward cuts and designs looks less sporty/clubby and more like a fashion statement to be taken seriously. How did that aesthetic come about, what was the inspiration for that look? We decided that besides a more sports related look we want to present the more fashionable side of originals. As always, we got inspired by bringing sport and fashion together in that collection and the look on the street is much purer and modern and less “vintage” then before. That and the great mix of camouflage and animal prints gives the collection a great twist and takes it out of other minimalist approaches in sportswear. I believe that sportswear has evolved through the years and our Originals Blue Collection is the answer to that. It’s a full circle: when sportswear became fashion in the late 80s, it obviously inspired high fashion. Then, you saw sport as an inspiration on every catwalk. Now, fashion influences sportswear and will evolve the look as well. We have created this capsule to spearhead and to evolve adidas Originals in general.

Is there a key product, a personal favorite of yours in the Originals Blue line? Any preference what i should push or highlight? For me, the TECH SUPER is a favourite, footwear wise. Will Adidas diversify more, offering anything from tried&tested Originals favorites to high-tech gear and new, fresh styles (like the Blue collection) or is there a general direction, an overriding aesthetic concept for all products right now? I think we are a very unique company. I don’t know of any other company that is so diverse already: from our innovative performance collections, through to the authentic sports inspired Originals collection to Y-3 where we clash high fashion with sports or SLVR where we mix a modernist tailoring silhouette with sportswear. And don’t forget about NEO, launched in 2012 with 10 standalone stores in Germany and already a huge commercial success in Asia. The core of everything we do is sport, but it comes in many variations. I don’t believe we need to diversify more, but we will have some really great collaborations coming up in 2013. What’s next for adidas? Any new lines or products to look forward to for? What is important for adidas is that, despite our huge archive and heritage, we are one of the, if not the, most innovative company in sport and we always look forward. It was amazing for me to join the company and see all the great technologies that, sometimes take seasons to develop to technical perfection before they are launched. So expect some really exciting things from adidas this year. From fashion to streetwear to really amazing athletic high performance gear.

☛ Find us at URBAN BASE — A 30

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Was the re-introduction of the Torsion system just a style-based idea or actually a revival of the engineering concept? Both: the torsion system is a technology with a technical benefit for those who wear the shoe and it had an archival style component that we believed was great to bring back. But again, we use an archival style to create totally new footwear for a more modern feel.

Dirk Schönberger

29 BIG TIME

Original BLUE Hiking Boot

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new balance

s n e k c i h c f o e l A ta By sebastian Schmid

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

hat do you think of when you see these numbers? 574, 577, 998, 1300 or 1500. Maths? Probably not, right? Anyone who is even slightly interested in sneaker culture will recognize the numbers instantly as some of the most important milestones in the history of New Balance. What began over 100 years ago in a tiny orthopaedic workshop in Boston has since become a worldfamous shoe manufacturer. In 1906, a 33-year-old immigrant called William J. Riley set himself the goal of helping people suffering from orthopedic foot problems by producing special inserts and shoes with a tailor-made fit. The name New Balance was born when Riley became impressed while observing the balance of chickens in his garden even though they were standing on just three claws. As a result of this observation he designed his inserts on the basis of a threepronged model. It became the starting signal for a long history of success with constant innovations from the first pair of running shoes with grooved

soles in the Sixties to the introduction of several widths for each model for an optimal fit. New Balance has also become a front runner in popular sneaker culture. Their long history in the business has created a huge portfolio of classic shapes. While the aspect of style was never the main focus, as opposed to the functionality and comfort of a shoe, the aesthetic aspects were never neglected either. This is hinted at in the claim of the legendary New Balance 990 series in the 1980s: “We don’t live by fashion. Then again, we don’t die by it either.” This perspective is appreciated by New Balance fans to this day. It also led to cooperation with some of the hippest streetwear labels and the most successful sneaker stores. Many a classic design from the 577 to the 1500 series became a canvas for the wildest sneaker fantasies, making the hearts of sneaker fans beat faster and making the lines outside sneaker shops even longer.

☛ Find us at Upper street — H2 23.1

o t s d a o r l i a R m Fro d n o y e b d n a s e p i Half-P

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carhartt

ditional workwear and choice items — sturdy jeans, jackets and the company’s trademark “Siberian Parka” — led to the introduction of the “Work In Progress” (WIP) in 1994. Originally a distribution network for the Carhartt US products in Europe (November saw the opening of the company’s first Russian store in Moscow), WIP in 1997 began to re-interprete classic designs in a new context, “under strict license and never without the expressed consent of the company headquarters in Dearborn, Michigan”. Sticking with the Carhartt’s core style and brand values this company spin-off added a fresh street culture twist with new items, designs and numerous collaborations, catering to both male and female customers (Carhartt in the US only recently started a women’s line). Shirts, jeans, chinos and jackets in straightforward cuts and simple but noticeably tweaked styles has Carhartt’s bring oldschool attitude into the 21st century, with items like the “Tramp Backpack” or the women’s “Accent Sweater” continuing traditions both old and new.

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 34

31 BIG TIME

ich in tradition, Carhartt keeps setting high standards in workwear and streetwear alike.In clothing and fashion, tradition can be a double-edged sword: stick to the classics too much and it becomes bland and boring, stray to far from original concepts and designs and you’ll dilute your core corporate and style elements. That was an obvious problem for Carhartt in the last three decades. Founded by Hamilton Carhartt back in 1889, the Dearborn, Michigan company quickly gained an excellent reputation for it’s tough, durable workwear, no-nonsense clothing for railroad and construction workers. To this day, Carhartt continues to produce premium outerwear, jackets, work boots, flame resistant clothing and durable workwear for even the toughest jobs, with some key items like the “Chore Coat” (introduced in 1923) becoming iconic design classics. In the Eighties the appeal of Carhartt made an unexpected, but very successful transition to the streets, becoming the new urban chic, popping up in Hip Hop and skateboarding circles first in the US, but also abroad. The popularity of the company’s tra-

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By Thomas Klein

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G-Shock

Shell Shock By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

t has been thirty years since a man in Japan had a vision of a watch different to all others. More than all else, a watch that could never break. Thirty years ago this was a real challenge, particularly in the segment of different looking digital watches, that almost looked like they could control gigantic robots — and the watch that you needed to do so was a one made of rubber, hard rubber. Countless prototypes were thrown out, because they didn’t work or were just total crap from the beginning, until, according to the legend, the inventor of the G-Shock passed a playground one day and saw kids playing with a bouncy ball and the watch materialised before his inner eye. Mr. Kikuo Ibe had been searching for the answer for so long, so this was a big coup which quickly led to success. In 1983, the watch was ready for serial production. The miraculous product inspired wonder far beyond the borders of Japan. It wasn’t a watch in the usual sense, it exuded an understanding of the zeitgeist of an entire generation, and even better, the next generation as well. Fans around the world got together to check out different models, to swap and just to show each other their collections. Thirty years ago everything at Casio was small, but today G-Shock is its own world-famous brand that works together with artists like HAZE to produce limited editions that set the hearts of collectors racing. Creative musical greats like Redman and the just released Wu Tang Clan G-Shock were part of the artists editions, always working with the “ancient” idea of Mr Kikuo Ibe, reconfirming a

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watch that is more than a watch that tells the time for 10 years, more than a watch that stops at whenever which time, more than a watch that is waterproof. I remember when a famous DJ in Berlin had a G-Shock watch and I knew instantly that I needed the same thing as in now not later, he let me see it and was a now old G-Shock Titanium Frogman, I was in love. Hip Hop was big these days and the DJ was brandname in our town, DJ Alex was his name and the watch was one of his trademark symbols, next to a cap he always wore, we became friends through that watch and I got it the same afternoon, rent I had to pay later, sometimes you need set your priorities. The G-Shock is always more than the sum of its parts, because a watch can’t embody anything more than the spirit of the times and the feeling that you’ll always possess something that’s in motion and you will always be reminded of what once was and what is still to come.

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☛ Find us at d.o.c.k. — C 2

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Fred Perry

s d o m r e The ub By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

t is completly understandable that all the young Mods had a shirt like this one, at least one. As when you went out to a Club and under your Mohair Suit was a shirt like this even though you sweated like a pro Tennis player, you still looked like fresh out the wash. This was a part of the young man’s Uniform, a part of his Soul the laurel on his breast showed who he was, as he was one of them, and even the girls on a great night out at the local all nighter, and not so local all nighter over at the Wigan Casino would wear it as it showed a sign of belonging. The slim cut of just this simple shirt always will remind people who knew about Fred Perry the Tennis player and the playboy who for who he was. A man that stood up for his values and his beliefs. A Mod needed that as he was part of the same tribe as he was working by day and a playboy by night, always. Fred Perry pays homage to all this in sixty years of rebellion in a most beautiful way with one of the classic heroes of our youths: DON LETTS!

Don Letts has been joining the countercultural dots for almost forty years, coming to notoriety in London during the late 1970s, running Acme Attractions and introducing an entire generation of punks to reggae as DJ at the Roxy Club. Now, as Fred Perry approaches its 60th anniversary, back in 2012, he will celebrate the integral part that the brand continues to play in shaping youth culture. Drawn towards musical projects, he created the band Basement Five, released a single with members of John Lydon’s P.I.L., managed The Slits and formed Big Audio Dynamite with Mick Jones (formerly of The Clash). B.A.D. enjoyed success on both sides of the Atlantic into the early 1990s, including the top ten hit “E=Mc2”. It is where class meets the young guns of today, to give them a hint of what was going on back then and to make them, and also form into new young originals. Sons of guns all the way.

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 33

WORKS FOR ME! info@dickies.eu

Br ands & Culture

en’s fashion has been growing around the world each drew public attention on European runways, causing a new year. With this trend on the rise, we tend to hear more “Designer Brand” movement — a movement that once again references made about “Japanese Fashion” than we did stood counter to the larger casual apparel market. This rise in in the past. Before going in depth about the production aspect the new designer brand movement coincided with Japan’s exof Japanese industries, a brief history of Japanese fashion panding economic power. trends must be told. After World War II, Japan lost much of its Casual wear was taken to an extreme level when so-called traditional culture that had been built up for generations. “vintage fashion” became known from abroad in the early Along with democracy, many Japanese traditions were Ameri- 90s. In the late 80s, it started off within a small group of canized. In the late 40s to early 50s, SCAP (Supreme Com- fashion conscious people at flea markets obsessing over the mander of Allied Forces) made restrictions against raw materi- unique features and details of vintage American garments als such as cotton and silk, forcing the Japanese to wear that had once been overlooked. It drew massive attention affordable and durable garments that were passed down from when dead-stock Levi’s 501 XX were sold around 1,000,000 the American Army. This triggered the start of the Japanese yen a pair. The vintage fashion market grew even bigger when obsession with blue jeans. Jeans in Japan are many companies started to reproduce vintage commonly known as “Gee-Pan”. This style jeans using selvedge denims. Not started off when people began abonly jeans, but also other items such breviating “G.I. pants” as “Geeas vintage sweatshirts and miliPants”. Many army surplus tary flight jackets, were reprogoods were sold at “Ameduced creating a new and yoko”, a place that, to refined market of Amerithis day, continues to can casual apparel sell many American called “AME-KAJI”. This “AME-KAJI” culcasual apparel brands in Tokyo. ture, which originaJapan, attempted in Japan, is now ting to get back on ironically an interits feet financially, nationally growing was given an oppormarket in the fashtunity to subcontract ion world. (OEM) American FROM DISTRESSED everyday garments using its historical TO RAW: JAPANESE backbone in the textile DENIM industry. Kojima, a city in Kojima, a city in OkaB y ATSUS H I M ATSUS H I M A Okayama, was known for yama is probably the most for Clutch Magazine making Japanese military and well known city for denim in school uniforms before World War Japan. There was a big change II. While under the American Occupain 1970s when Big John manufaction, this industrial town started manufactured the first jeans in Japan using Japaturing western garments, such as jeans — which nese selvedge denim. From small family owned was the start of “Okayama Denim” we know today. manufacturers, to big corporate denim companies, people in In the 1950s, with the economy on the rise, many Japanese this town are constantly thinking of new ways to improve for were inspired by the American culture. One of the first popular the future. When the vintage denim reproduction boom hit, menswear movements was the “Outlaw” style, with Elvis Presley the city worked as one to get as many vintage shuttle looms up as it symbolic icon. The counter-culture created by this move- and running as possible to keep up with the high demand of ment was the “Ivy Look”. The Ivy look created the first menswear quality seeking customers. What started off as replicating magazine, making a huge impact in the fashion scene, since American manufacturing methods has now reached to a point magazines were the only source of information at the time. of creating a Japanese take, on new and higher quality jeans. By the 1970s denim jeans were very popular and many This is something that the Japanese have done successfully magazines started featuring other American fashion trends. not only in jeans, but also in automobiles and cameras. With “Made in U.S.A. Catalog” was a breakthrough magazine that a rising international market and appreciation for high quality introduced many American brands and products that caught denim, American brands are now putting time and effort into the attention of eclectic minds. Fashion retail stores started to reviving “Made in U.S.A.” jeans also. heavily import American products, changing the needs of fashManually distressing denim is also an under-rated specialty of Japan. The natural fades and aging we see done by the ion consumers in Japan forever. Simultaneously, Japanese fashion designers successfully Japanese are simply beautiful. Many may not know, but dis-

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Superior Quality

BIG TIME

mecca of eyewear manufacturing in Japan. This city mostly made up of agricultural land, farmers would travel to the biggest nearby city, Osaka in the cold winter season to learn eyewear manufacturing to make extra money. After years of manufacturing under multiple eyewear companies, farmers would take what they have learned and start their own workshops in Sabae, which eventually turned into manufacturing companies. In recent years, the comeback of acetate and celluloid eyeglass frames has brought attention to Sabae for its beautiful hand made frames. Japanese eyewear has always taken pride in metal frames, with it’s easy-to-wear wear and strong firm shape, even after years of wearing. The materials used such as titanium alloy and sun platinum metal took time and experience to be structured with perfection. With exact measurements down to micro units, it is considered an art that could only be done right by the precise hands of the experienced craftsmen of Sabae. If this technique was more commonly known and accepted internationally, it could easily reroute the map of eyewear manufacturing around the world. A TIMELESS DESIGN: NEW MENSWEAR MOVEMENT Now that people have access to more information than ever before, Japan rarely sees sudden explosive fads like it did in the past. Many characteristics that we see in fashion today feature durable use and a timeless look that grows better with age and use. Finer quality is expected, and products or traits that are popular at a given moment are beginning to be avoided. This new movement has started to change the way we once valued distinctive luxurious designer brands, as today seeking true quality, authenticity and a history behind a garment has become more important. This can also be said in the world of women's fashion. With the “standard look” on its comeback, people are expressing themselves through smaller details, showing a big growth in the accessory market as a result. The production aspect in menswear has been creating a buzz, causing Japanese brands to gain international attention. As this contemporary standard of menswear develops into a new international market, made in Japan products will be widely accepted, and push the boundaries helping to create a whole new dimension for the future of fashion.

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tressed jeans have been done in Kojima since the 1960s. Considering that the first jeans the Japanese fell in love with are second hand denim worn out by Americans, they must have felt a sense of awkwardness putting on their first pair of stiff raw denim. After noticing the uncomfortable fit, the Japanese have gone through countless trial and error of washing their new jeans to look like the pants they bought from the Army surplus store. Now after decades of experimenting, top quality distressing is hand done by experienced craftsmen. The ambition behind the desire of the perfect used jeans is now widely accepted as part of a design. THE NEXT BIG “MADE IN JAPAN”: JAPANESE LEATHER PRODUCTS The quality of Japanese leather has drawn a lot of attention in recent years. For the Japanese, leather is considered a material rich in history. Deerskin, washable and able to endure humidity, was said to have been used for more than ten centuries ago. The high humidity and the cultural tradition of low animal meat consumption delayed the use of cow and horse-hide, which has only been accepted recently in Japan within the past one hundred years. Not only has deerskin attracted attention, but the tanning technique used on leather is praised as well. The traditional tanning methods passed down from Americans and the detail-oriented minds of the Japanese have helped Japan reach their high level in leather production they are currently in, with their leather tanneries showing massive improvements every year. The high valued shell cordovan leather in Japan is becoming one of the best in the world. With its still young history in leather, the reality of the situation is that unlike denim, leather cannot fully be supplied from Japan alone yet. Now that many Japanese brands producing leather products have started to gain popularity, we hope to see this industry take the next step. The leather products of the “The Real McCoy’s” are a prime example of top quality Japanese leather, holding a huge potential to becoming the next big material to represent the “Made in Japan” brand internationally. HAND MADE PERFECTION: JAPANESE EYEWEAR Sabae, a small city in Fukui prefecture, is considered to be the

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the foundation of made in japan products

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Br ands & Culture

Pedaled

PEDALING TO A BETTER WORLD IN STYLE

bread & butter berlin

By TJ B r u d e r

BIG TIME

tional design, all its garments allow for freedom of movement, at the same time pushing the cycling experience to new heights. PEdALED A/W 2013 features a collection that is mixed up to seamlessly connect varying cycling styles and needs. As your friendly companion on a lonely cycling tour around the world or as a functional style guide on your local commute, PEdALED designs will pull their weight. Some key styles are a warm Hacking Jacket made of wool that can be worn together with a Rainfrog Jacket on top during rainy days, even able to protect a backpack from the elements. A Gufo Jacket can be taken out of the Adventure vest pocket when the cold wind is blowing making life a bit difficult. Proper ventilation and style are provided by the Kabuto Vest or Jacket with a Koala Jersey underneath. Comfortable, stylish without any concessions in quality for your ride to personal freedom, in touch with nature and the more important values in life.

☛ Find us at Fire dept. at l.o.c.k. — FD 7

ashion, a deeper meaning and care for the environment might be tough to unite in most cases but PEdALED is giving it its best shot. Years ago, its pedaler in chief, Hideto Suzuki, disillusioned by the predominantly shallow commercial agenda of the fashion scene, gave up his role as designer for a well known brand to look for something more sustainable. Traveling, he met builders of log houses that were leading a life so close to nature. Hideto was impressed and inspired enough to spend 4 years living in nature learning to build log houses borrowing materials from nature. Having found a new sense of balance in the woods, he was now able to formulate his new vision for the future, fusing nature with fashion. Shortly after, Hideto discovered the bicycle for himself and along with it the lack of fashionable yet functional bicycle wear — PEdALED in its conceptual stage was born. Leaning on the recently acquired expertise of building log houses, Hideto Suzuki wanted his newly launched stylish bicycle brand to show the right level of respect for nature and sustainable living; not merely focus on the sporty aspect of biking. Key characteristics of PEdALED are the fusion of heritage and modern, nature and technology as well as casual and sporty. It lives off the synergy of mixing contrarian traits — a potent yet calming blend. PEdALED items are manufactured in Japan and Italy and commonly attract customers that are looking for stylish performance in a community that respects the environment. Through PEdALED’s unique approach, outstanding materials and func-

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Br ands & Culture

Evisu

NAME OF A GOD, SPIRIT OF A SEAGULL By TJ B r u d e r

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

owerful ingredients of Japan’s denim icon Evisu — a charismatic designer, traditional labor-intensive methods resulting in premium denim and white paint giving wings to the kamome (seagull), its visual ambassador and official seal of authenticity. Founded in 1991 in Osaka during Japan’s “Replica Movement”, Hidehiko Yamane had a plan. Running a vintage clothing business and not finding the premium vintage-style jeans he was looking for he decided to put his tailoring background and venturing spirit to work — the now almost legendary Evisu brand was born. Evisu denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms resulting in a smooth edge, its particular selvedge usually being red and white. In the early hours of Evisu, only 14 pairs of jeans were created per day, each one a vintage denim piece of art wearing the hand-painted kamome with pride. Next to Evisu being a selvedge denim, the raw denim is classifiedinto No. 1, No. 2 and No.3 — depending on the intensity of its pre-shrink processing and place of origin. The hand-painted logo chips and fades over time, making it a true original, reminiscent of its original American brothers and sisters during World War II, which at the time had to be printed instead of sewn due to restrictions on thread and other materials essential to the war effort. Now over 20 years have

passed and Evisu’s blue legacy continues. Last year’s 20th anniversary celebrations showcased 20 hero pieces of heritage denim through the ages as well as high profile designer collaborations in the form of a competition based on the Evisu brand ideology “Make the Rules”. It featured creative high-flyers such as Pete Fowler, Jeremy Ville and others. The 20th anniversary festivities may have ended but the creative spirit stomps on with “Shooting & Shooting”, Evisu’s A/W 2013 collection theme. All about Military & Hunting, the Heritage collection sees a mixing of fabric & color choices. Its fusion style of rugged and timeless wraps around highlighted pieces such as hunting jackets, jacquard denim and original camouflage styling. For its Genes collection, the shots are being fired from another conceptual angle, here the inspiration is dictated by shots taken through the lens of a camera, the photo-shoot. Bold bright checks and great graphics take the men’s line fashion forward, while animal prints run wild throughout the women’s collection, with looser silhouettes creating a sexy yet comfortable look. A solid collection ready to take European denim aficionados by storm. With its name borrowed from the Japanese god of prosperity, the craftsmanship engrained in its genes and with the hand-painted seagull prominently protruding from its threads, Evisu has matured into a denim icon that has stood the test of time — through highs and lows — and will undoubtedly keep flying the streets for many years to come.

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — h7 38

A PAPER FOR YOUR THOUGHTS

By TJ B r u d e r

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 8.1

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MiDori

41 BIG TIME

n the land of tablets, smartphones, apps and digital gadgets, paper is king, or isn’t it? Taking a close look at the Japanese stationery manufacturer Midori’s products line up, paper deserves to be at least a queen! Minimalistic, aesthetically “pure” products mixed with some colorful and kawaii (cute) elements round up the Japanese cultural visual spectrum. Around the concept of a Traveler’s Notebook in various finishes (leather, kraft paper and more) coupled with genuine accessories to allow for customization of use, efficiency and looks. From package to product, Midori products instantly convey a strong feeling of “Extraordinaire”. Not surprising, since dedicated design teams for each individual line work in sync with local production facilities that are straight out of history books. All items have little perks that one grows to love and the more they are being used, the more they will be loved. Just like a good pair of premium denim, Midori’s products age beautifully taking on the personality of the one using it, literally carrying memories on and off paper. But why paper when we have our little digital buddies on our side 24/7? Why not! — and because there are many memories which are so real that they deserve some tactile attention, real feeling and exclamation. Midori makes sure that its premium stationery line gets the same attention. The production process is made up of seemingly endless steps, using many machines operated by knowing hands and hearts beating with dedication and pride. Most items are made in Japan — papers at Midori’s factory in Chiba (east of Tokyo), and the Midori Traveler’s notebook’s leather cover is tanned in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Everything is then assembled in Japan. For the A/W 2013 season, Midori teamed up with Nigel Cabourn to conceptualize and create a custom-made set. “Made in Japan” has something mystic, something abstract, and often filled with dedication and respect for purity. The digital way is in but giving true memories its well deserved space is anything but out.

Br ands & Culture bread & butter berlin BIG TIME

Cledran

atching fashion retail prices over the last decades is like watching the ball drop on Times Square in New York City, slowly but surely going down, down, down. That cool shirt, pair of pants, shoes, bag etc... in general has just become so much more affordable and as a result, people buy a lot but also dump a lot. This vicious cycle has become a ring of fire, instant gratification but not for long because that next brick needs to be thrown in the fire to keep it ablaze. The Japanese bag and accessories label Cledran appeals to customers of opposite style orientation and conviction with its tag line “something that we cannot part with”. Launched in 2008 by designer Kazuhiko Yoshitake, Cledran doesn’t follow trends like a dog with its drooling tongue dangling from its mouth. With its base and production facilities all based in Osaka, a few hours away from Tokyo, Cledran has a strong focus on leather bags and accessories but a wide variety of simple, easy to understand designs and blend of materials fire up this special mix. For Bread & Butter, Cledran will have mostly bags and accessories made from tanned leather and fabrics with borderless designs. Kazuhiko Yoshitake invites everyone with open arms to experience and feel for themselves the ‘something that we cannot part with’ style flavor, something that goes way beyond instant gratification.

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 8.6

NOT FOR THE SHALLOW MINDED By TJ B r u d e r

FISHERMEN’S FRIEND

Br ands & Culture

Brown’s Beach jacket

By TJ B r u d e r

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — h7 8.4

43 BIG TIME

All made in Japan, the approach is very product driven with style names No. 524 “High Neck Vest” and No. 7624 “13 Start P- Coat”. This very focused and dedicated style of production guarantees supreme quality true to its original. Having obtained all the original Brown’s Beach Jacket advertisements from the early 1920’s, it is not only the actual items but also the overall “image” that takes a dynamic time travel on this Japanese fashion rocket ship.

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e are writing the year 1901 in Worcester, Massachusetts (USA ). A fine outdoor brand with the name of Brown’s Beach Jacket is born. Using its proprietary fabric, the “Beach Cloth”, durable jackets are being produced. Consisting of the magic potion, 27% cotton and 73% wool, the fabric which ends up bringing the brand great success, protects the wearer from wind, rain and cold weather. It was those exact properties which made Brown’s Beach Jackets must-have items for fishermen, hunters and lumber jacks. Not exactly a short brand history but in the late 1960s, Brown’s Beach Jacket’s run came to a screeching halt, mostly due to the rise of synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon. However, half a century later, a used clothing shop from Tokyo’s famous fashion district Harajuku came to the rescue and kickstarted the successful comeback of this very specialized brand. To make sure that the original nostalgia and feeling of Brown’s Beach Jacket was being preserved, three “sacred imperial treasures” were decided on: 1) 100% cotton herringbone twill piping 2) Original nipple snap button (from 1901) with brand name inscribed 3) Salt & Pepper fabric with the magic potion combination of 73% wool/27% cotton

Br ands & Culture

superior Labor

WHAT’S IN THE BAG ? By TJ B r u d e r

bread & butter berlin

hat answer might seem a bit abstract at first or surprising but the name of this Japanese bag and accessories brand also contains its biggest asset: (The) Superior Labor. Hidden away in southwestern Japan’s picturesque Okayama, The Superior Labor team has plenty of fresh air and scenery to focus on fresh ideas and superior attention to detail in manufacturing — all made in its own studio never leaving the premises, never leaving quality up to coincidences. From the president, Makoto Kawai, all the way to the sales division, every employee at The Superior Labor is a craftsman and all of them used to be The Superior Labor’s customer at first. The love and care for the product can easily be imagined as

BIG TIME

it is conceptualized and created by craftsmen that are its biggest fan. The Superior Labor kicked off its labor of love for S/S 2007 with leather accessories and canvas bags. Makoto Kawai, who ran a pet supply store before, had acquired very special skills in leather crafts when he was young and now was the time to put them to use. The first collection featured leather accessories and canvas bags of the finest quality and touch. Fine equipment like a grand piano played by a virtuoso uniting and treating leather and cloth, true to the brand concept of “Pride and craftsmanship — never an easy way out”. Not only never an easy way out but also no road too long: half way around the world from Okayama to Berlin with the quest of letting The Superior Labor product line-up do the talking. Having grown into a mature collection including a line-up of various clothing items as well, the lineup at Bread & Butter is going back to its roots: canvas and leather bags and accessories. This is how it had all begun and this is how the European appetite for quality and simple style will be triggered in an oh so smooth fashion. What’s in the bag, on the bag, around the bag, holding the bag, decorating the bag, giving it color? Easy — (The) Superior Labor.

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — h7 8.7

Br ands & Culture

rocky mountain featherbed

JACKSON HOLE (WYOMING) OR BUST!

RMFB’s latest collection is called ‘Grand Teton’, named after Wyoming’s unbelievably beautiful national park. It makes use of a lot of vintage material and is supposed to honor the intentions of RMFB’s original founder going back to the good old Jackson Hole days. History certainly plays a huge role with a resurrected brand like RMFB, and hoping that the European market will take to RMFB as it once did in the 80’s, Kinji Teramoto is strongly motivated to introduce it once again on Berlin turf under Japanese terms — filled to the hilt with vintage passion!

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 11

for the bold & Brave brands

By TJ B r u d e r

45 BIG TIME

iving the life of a cowboy ain’t easy! Rain or shine, the weather gods either friends or foes, no choice but to become part of the rugged life protecting yourself with equally rugged wear and spirits. The Rocky Mountain Featherbed (RMFB) is the right armor for cowboys in and of all walks of life. Its uniquely developed down parkas and vests with a single piece leather yoke bear the same cold proof and heat retaining characteristics as a feather bed. Born in the late 1960s in Jackson Hole, Wyoming (nicknamed “the cowboy state”) in the U.S.A., faded away in the late 1980s and was resurrected in the 21st century in Japan by a man with endless passion & patience: Kinji Teramoto. Around the time of RMFB’s disappearance, the avid vintage collector and fan of this particular brand, Kinji, started collecting its items. Following the initial RMFB collection project was a thorough research and development phase. Blood and tears were shed in succeeding with a RMFB reproduction that in 2005 was finally worth its original — and then some! The key feature of it was of course still the one piece leather yoke, next to specially developed nylon fabrics and yarns. Through a patent attorney the original brand holder in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, was approached and the rest is modern history. 100% Made in Japan, 100% Cowboy Spirit, RMFB got a new chance and was more than warmly welcomed by the Japanese vintage community. Japanese in general welcome the old as well as its modern interpretations. However, today’s RMFB customers come from all walks of life, showing appreciations for its items’ functionality, style, quality and history alike.

Br ands & Culture

The Real MCcoy’s

By TJ B r u d e r

DON’T MESS WITH THE REAL DEAL !

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

he Japanese label “The Real McCoy’s” is an ode to integrity, quality, the painstaking quest for perfection and of course the passion for American vintage — it just cannot get much more REAL than that. The Real McCoy’s collection ranges from replica vintage leather jackets to denim as well as sports and workwear. On fashion globe “Americana” there certainly is a lot of vintage to be devoured. However, The Real McCoy’s serves it up since the year 2000 with so much more perceivable perfection than the usual grub. The perfection in quality and style is of course largely thanks to skilled craftsmen working with the finest machinery in local Japanese factories, many years of experience under their belt, BUT the passion behind it all is the true engine and needed icing on the vintage cake. It all started when back in the 70s, The Real McCoy’s guru of vintage, Hitoshi Tsujimoto, took a 40-day trip through America sniffing the rugged air of American vintage. After his return he started the vintage store NYLON and, thereby, paving the way for eventually creating stunning reproduction vintage items such as military flight jackets, BUCO motorcycle jackets, Japanese selvedge jeans and loopwheel sweatshirts. The following that ensued has an almost cultish appeal. Real McCoy’s venture to Europe is driven by the desire to bring the fusion of vintage Americana and Japanese craftsmanship to the people that care for the “real deal”. The materials used in this “made-to-last-generations” product mix consist of only the finest leathers, Japanese selvedge denim and many others which undergo special processes such as vegetable tanning in exclusive factories, by highly skilled craftsmen with a vintage pride that is unbreakable. Another secret of the Real McCoy’s

vintage soup is its non-pretentious approach to concept, design & production. The concept of reproducing and bringing back to life iconic items, such as the BUCO J-31 riders and type B-6 jacket, is driven by a passionate team with a vintage heart, relying on its own passion and knowledge, yet always listening closely to their customers’ feedback as well. After thoroughly examining the original vintage garment, all materials are selected, processed and manufactured to perfectly mimic the original — down to the last zipper and button! In a day and age where style behavior often equals “quick, cheap & dirty”, the real deal is coming on like an unstoppable bulldozer. McCoy’s style, not McDxxxxx’s style, because after all, REAL is the BEST DEAL!

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 4

MOVE INTO A FURTHER ATMOSPHERE

Br ands & Culture

one green elephant

By TJ B r u d e r

☛ Find us at Urban Base — A 8

47 BIG TIME

that time no other labels were producing successfully, since then we have kept our focus always ahead of the market, concentrating on our own philosophy and not looking to following trends. We have invented in the last 2 years new technical washings that have forced us to be recognized and brought the brand to market break through. Today I still have the same inspiration as I did 10 years ago and innovation will always be the driver of One Green Elephant.” Worldwide thousands of satisfied retailers confirm the continuous development and they are proud to be part of the One Green Elephant denim community.

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ne Green Elephant is a denim and street wear label that has been inspired by Japanese and European fashion, art and the most influential music cities in the world such as Berlin, New York, London and Tokyo. Founder and creative director, Tarkan Salar started his company in Hong Kong 10 years ago and nowadays he can look back on an exciting and emotional denim journey. Mr. Salar explains: “I knew Japan was well known for producing premium quality for reasonable prices and I was inspired to do something different for the rest of the world. The market all looked the same, same ideas, same quality standards, same fabrics, same trends… which was boring for me. On a trip to Japan where I sourced new fabrics, I chose to start a denim brand with the concept innovation, premium quality, perfect fit that is value for money. Once I had been introduced to the concept of Japanese fashion I saw potential in Europe and brought it forward with my Japanese Joint Venture partner. The Japanese/European collaboration was born. From there a motivated innovative denim brand was in development. Fittings we kept perfect and stable although its the washings, treatments, fabrics and techniques were innovating. We started with 3D baked denims which at

people

HIROSHI By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

ho is this man? And why is he so important? Why have you never heard of him and why is he the most important thing your life will ever know? These are just some important questions about Hiroshi Fujiwara, why? Because he changed the game as you know it and also he created a game, that you take part in every day and participate and make your money with on occasion. That game is called Urban Fashion and he is the man that created that very game and also is the main man ingredient in that game, still. It all started a good while back when Hiroshi was still a little kid. Without the internet and no such thing as modern media he went on on to become the most influential person on the planet. How? He was everywhere, he went everywhere and he knew everyone and still does today! At a time when for most, well basically all of us, Japan was somewhat compared to another planet and nobody felt compelled to go there because of the language and the signs, he just took it the other way! He came to Europe, to be more precise to England. In the days of Punk’s Heyday he was inbewteen everything that would change our core beliefs. Vivian Westwood opened shop and it was called SEX, Hiroshi was there, the Sex Pistols played, Hiroshi was there, Malcom Mclaren founded the Buffalo Gals, Hiroshi was there. It would take days and would use a real amount of paper to tell you where he was, but you get the picture. This does not leave you without any marks, this is life, this is what happens when you live it and you live it well. Without any regrets and without holding back he pushed on but never in a way that was in a way that anybody felt uncomfortable by

BIG TIME

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people

BIG TIME

bread & butter berlin

people

bags but the very best japan has to offer in that scenery. And it goes on, for long. As Hiroshi does not only dig in the archive of a time long gone but he also tries to push the envelope towards a new kind of things. As he engages in music and pushes his guitar play with musicians like Eric Clapton and even though you think he is never doing anything he has invented more things than you will ever probably, if your name is not Errolson Hugh, well the small tag on a sleeve that every T-shirt has these days, ever wondered who came up with it? Wonder no more, it was Hiroshi. He and Takashi Murakami (of international artist fame) came up with a new cosmetic line that is spelled “retaW”, Water backwards and you know what, it is the best there is, one up on par with “comme des garcons” wonderful eau de parfums. Never do anything half assed could be one of his credos, and it shows, always full throttle! So here we are having a brainiac that seems to know what he wants all of the time and seems to do it at exactly the right one as well. And as time will tell we will be with him and follow his moves, even though we dont know that he will come up with, he will be on the right side since the power is strong in this one.

51 BIG TIME

any means. He was there and was curious and sucked up information like a sponge, to keep it to himself, never to spill the beans. If you would be a comic book artist for Marvel Comics Frgmnt Design Dunks and had to draw Hiroshi, he would be one of the Watchers, a big guy watching everything that happens and being there just hanging out. He would be the one that never interferes but one day comes with his own goods, and that day all hell will break loose. Why? Because you want it, you need it and you cannot live without it, that’s why. The guy who just recently sold “A Bathing Ape” to a Hong Kong Firm is called Nigo, which means roughly translated the second, as to why that is because there is one guy before him, guess who! He never planned any of this, it s just a case of always being at the right spot at the exact right time and being a solid guy! Hiroshi is a Skateboarder by heart and always will be one, which also explains his die hard and anarchistic moves. He will always be there and he will make it! Not to be underestimated since his empire is still growing. Having thought up “Head Porter”, a brand first only to be had in Japan and creating something that he always was a fan of, bags. Not any kind of

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e never planned any of this, it’s just a case of always being at the right spot at the exact right time and being a solid guy!

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edwin

the rubik’s Cube of denim

bread & butter berlin

By TJ b r u d e r

BIG TIME

hat is there to be said about Edwin which hasn’t been said already? A company history dating back over 60 years shows endurance and that somewhere along the way many things were done right. Not too long after WWII , in 1947, Edwin started off as a Japanese fledgling in the denim business, at that time a U.S. domain. Mr. Tsunemi with his strong passion for denim made the first beginnings, initially importing from the U.S.

and finally producing original Edwin jeans with the still to this day legendary rainbow selvedge. Throughout its history, Edwin has broken quite a few records along the way, in 1963 with the world’s heaviest ringspun denim (16 oz.), in the 70s as the first to develop “old wash” replicating worn denim and in the 80s with the revolutionary “stone wash” process. Many more highlights followed, thereafter, and to this day it is a rock in the industry with count-

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☛ Find us at L.o.c.k. — H7 7.2

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A/W 2013 are any indication, it’s gonna be a collection with lots of impact. “Fuck Your Heroes / Ignore Your Haters” was boldly proclaimed in big white letters on the back of one of the Edwin team member’s jacket! It’s a denim brand with a strong heritage, pride and commitment and like a stocky line-backer will not hide its potential. What can we expect from Edwin in the future? Certainly a continuation of its no compromise craftsmanship, utilizing exclusive fabrics and fabrication, unique technology, hand wash processes, and continual progression in design and fit. Its traceability feature where every item can be traced back to “when”, “where”, “who” and “how” shows great transparency — and just like all roads lead to Rome, all traces will lead to passion & commitment, the Edwin way.

53 BIG TIME

less collections, special collaborations, special editions and new innovative developments along the way. However, denim is such a complex fabric and new innovations coupled with authentic original processes can still result in the most exciting and surprising results. As Edwin’s creative director Rey Gautier states in a recent profile on Edwin’s video journal “Save the date”: “There still is a lot to learn!”. Many combinations have already been explored but Edwin, the Rubik’s cube of denim keeps rattling at lightning speeds. If some of the documentary images shot during the most recent photo shoot for

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the flat head

M EA R D S I H & N A M A By tj B r u d e r

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

agano, Japan, 1993, a vintage store, a denim and vintage crazed designer and collector, Masayoshi Kobayashi spent 3 years on creating one pair of original vintage inspired jeans wich equals the beginning of THE FLAT HEAD (TFH). Japanese are known to give it their all and when it comes to quality, basically never settle for less than perfect. TFH designer and president Kobayashi is no different and compared to many other vintage brands alive today, TFH is not just reproducing a particular style but about keeping old techniques alive and making it fit for the 21st century. Kobayashi didn’t shy any efforts to come up with the answers to uncountable vintage questions. From weaving to dyeing, all of the TFH denim processes are authentic and followed through with utmost care and skill. All items are made in Japan, with all denim woven on rare old shuttle looms producing the finest selvedge denim. Color and the ability of it fading in an authentic vintage way is achieved by very cumbersome loop dyeing, dipping the yarn over 20 times (often this is done only 9–14 times). However, it is not only the number of dips that is responsible for perfect dyeing which leaves the core white. Over time all of TFH’s denim gain real character and beauty

— at the point of purchase, denim’s life has only just begun and is only 50% ready, as Kobayashi explains. Initially, when TFH released its original denim, some comments were made about its vertical fading being excessive. However, so much effort goes into the weaving and dyeing process as well as applying old school sewing techniques, allowing every customer to turn his denim armor into a unique pair of jeans through wear and tear with just the right amount of color fade. At Bread & Butter, it is especially the denim range which will be presented. TFH is not about clothes but a lifestyle... NO!... even more than that — an era in which things were made with a purpose, to be durable and appreciated for a long period of time. It was a time when everybody knew your name and mingled in bright colored neon lit diners with shiny seats. So it comes as no surprise that even to this day the following and interest in this way of life is very strong, in Japan and beyond. Thanks to TFH & its vintage chief Kobayashi, we can keep living the vintage dream and not worry ’bout a thang!

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 8.2

N E K O R B R E V E N BRUISED

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PRPS

ly lower but brings on all the bells & whistles of the PRPS experience at full throttle. PRPS Japan presents denim on an exquisite Japanese platter of craftsmanship to the utter hilt. The distressing and aging process of PRPS rivals the best in the field and as all denim enthusiasts know well, the rest of the breakin’ in will be done by the lucky owner of this special jean. Last but not least, when you thought it cannot get any more premium, PRPS Noir appears on stage. With even more techniques used, including tearing, repairing and staining, PRPS Noir jeans replicate actual jeans worn by miners during the American gold rush era. All three lines stay true to the core of the brand, the “purpose” and its passion. Whether it’s denim, work wear or military inspired garments, the signature of PRPS is clearly visible in all, as in the above military shirt which depicts war scenes of heroism, strong emotions and the human element — that’s PRPS!

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 8.9

55 BIG TIME

or all blue blooded ladies and fellas, the tag line already rings a big temple size gong — PRPS — super premium denim, military and work wear inspired label from NYC. PRPS stands for “purpose” and was started about a decade ago by ex Nike designer Donwan Harrel. The mission is simple, its execution isn’t: to create the best and most authentic denim as well as military and work wear inspired collection out there. Everything in PRPS’s process is premium, from the organic Zimbabwe cotton all the way to the entire denim collection being produced in Japan using original looms from back when. PRPS jeans can be easily spotted by its folded back pocket, purple tab, different colored buttons on the fly and its purple line selvage. All PRPS items are distributed over 3 distinct lines: PRPS, PRPS Japan and PRPS Goods & Co. The latter is inspired by authentic vintage Americana, and will offer a complete brand experience that speaks to the modern man’s desire for functional, purposeful and innovative clothing. The price point is slight-

for the bold & Brave brands

By tj B r u d e r

brands

pepe jeans london

40 years of denim history By sebastian schmid

bread & butter berlin

Bridget Hall by Bruce Weber

BIG TIME

orty years in the fashion biz is half an eternity — nearly everyone agrees that no other industry is so subject to rapid change. This year Pepe Jeans London turns that almost biblical (in this industry at least) age of 40. What qualities do you need to carry with you to survive the fashion carousel for such a long time? If you look at the history of Pepe Jeans, it becomes clear: a knack for recognising the trends of the time and propelling them forward with plenty of love for detail. But let’s go back to the beginning... A cold February day on a weekend in London in the 1970s. Anyone who braves their way onto the street is whipped in the face by brutal mixture of drizzle and snow. Why go out at all? Simple: it’s market time. And not just any old market, but the world famous Portobello Market — a mecca for almost everything and on weekends it attracts herds of the city’s fashionistas. Portobello Market: A cauldron of creative energy A lot of the people out that day go to take a look at a particular stall at the Portobello Road Market. A crowd has gathered under a railway bridge. They’ve come from the farthest corners of London by bike or by Tube and they’ve got their sights on a pair of jeans. Behind the stall in the centre of all the attention stand the three brothers Nitin, Arun and Milan Shah. They’re flogging self-designed jeans that have been finished with a love for detail. The customers practically rip their creations out of their hands.

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It’s the year 1973, a time in which fashion is becoming more and more a medium of self realisation. The kids are sick and tired of the boring, anonymous denim products that are everywhere. And for exactly this reason the hippest clothing market of the city, the Portobello Market, is one of the most important sources of creative energy. Here people are crafting, collaging, designing and inspiring. A melting pot of ideas, in the middle of which the Shah brothers sell their jeans. The enthusiasm of their customers gives them the idea of starting their own company — on one winter day in the year 1973. Who would have guessed that this idea born in the microcosm of Portobello Market would grow into a company that nearly forty years later operates more than 300 shops and whose products are sold in more than 60 countries?

who is just on the cusp of becoming a real supermodel. The ads set new standards of production and aesthetics and belong to the annals of advertising history. Yet the campaign wih Bridget Hall isn’t a one-hit wonder. Over and over, the brand displays its talent for discovering authentic faces who are on the threshold of fame. Who knows which brand first booked Kate Moss for a campaign? Pepe Jeans London! And the list of names that lines the brand’s path is long — stretching from Sienna Miller, Ashton Kutcher and Laetitia Casta to the young Cristiano Ronaldo as he still played for Manchester United, to Alexa Chung. Armed for the next 40 years Despite all the glamour, the original character of the brand remains intact, as reflected in the new creations in their portfolio. Whether it’s the children’s collection named “Portobello” in memory of the brand’s origins on London’s Portobello Market or through the “1973” premium line, which refers to the label’s year of birth — the story of the brand’s beginnings seems to be deeply woven into everything it does. Now, in the year 2013, when Pepe Jeans London turns 40, two things still seem to have just as much relevance as in 1973: on the one hand, no one is interested in boring, anonymous denim, and on the other hand, success in the fashion business is still determined by the capability to rapidly trigger and develop trends. It looks as if Pepe is armed and ready for the next 40 years!

☛ Find us at URBan base — A 34

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Interfaces with photography and music This direct, rapid ascent is largely due to the fact that Pepe Jeans quickly understands that the brand’s intuition for trends isn’t limited to the company’s products. This competence is expressed in various advertising campaigns and cooperations. Pepe swiftly indentifies the interfaces between fashion and other cultural products — from photography to music, film and televisions. These are the critical points where synergies are produced, that, along with the products themselves, contribute to the creation of a successful brand in terms of communication. A sample? One of their early ads from 1987 features an ethnographic mix of a Nottinghill love story and an Indian rain dance shot with wild camera angles. Not only visually captivating: with the atmospheric hymn “How Soon is Now” by The Smiths, the commercial even captures the sound of an entire generation. The video penetrates the memory of its audience through several senses. One of the biggest coups comes in the early 1990s, when they are able to recruit one of the era’s most renowned and style-defining fashion photographers to shoot Pepe’s first big advertising campaign. Bruce Weber photographs Bridget Hall,

Ashton Kutcher

57 BIG TIME

From market stall to 25,000m² One thing after another: the Shahs first expand their activities from one to four market stands. But the enthusiasm doesn’t subside. The Shahs are convinved that their cutting edge, detail-obsessed denim designs form a counterpoint to the widespread fashion conformity of the era. In the year 1975 their first boutique opens in London’s Kings Road — first under the name St. Tropez Trading Company. But soon the company name seems akward and shortly thereafter the brand that we still know today as Pepe Jeans London is brought to life. A brand whose founders Nitin, Arun and Milan Shah, by the end of the 1970s, more or less overnight, find themselves in headquarters measuring 25,000 m². Soon Pepe Jeans is competing with all the big US denim brands that had dominated the English market up to that point. The brand becomes the most successful British actor on the world denim stage. Soon they’re looking beyond the borders of their home market. In the year 1984, they open their first showroom in Los Angeles, USA.

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ied m h c s d l o G o n ia AG Adr

e l y St f o x i M t c e f r e p e h T y t i l i b a n i ta s u S and By sebastian schmid

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

n times of climate change, sustainable business and environmentally friendly production are at least as sexy as a perfectly tailored pair of jeans. All the better when both come together — as in the Premium Denim Label AG Adriano Goldschmied, a label that enjoys plenty of celebrity fans, including Naomi Campbell, Charlize Theron, Kate Hudson and Gavin Rossdale. Founded in 2000 by denim expert Adriano Goldschmied and Yul Ku, the owner of Koos Manufacturing, in South Gate, California, the brand stands for designer jeans made entirely the USA. Outerwear for men and women was added to the product portfolio in 2010. Driven by the need to always create an authentic denim look, in the upcoming FW 13/14 collection AG plays with material innovations, such as fabrics with nearly 100% elasticity and various finishes, from coatings to sprays to overdyes.

Besides all their know-how in manufacturing, distribution and design, AG has another competency: environmentally friendly, sustainable production. Washing jeans usually requires large quantities of water in order to rinse away the unneeded indigo dye. With the help of ozone technology, AG can achieve this step in a dry process, saving considerable amounts of water, chemicals and energy. Apart from that, various fibres are used during manufacturing, such as TENCEL® and Lenzing Modal®, which are made out of the natural resource wood and are entirely biodegradable. It’s nice when you don’t just feel great in your clothes because they look so good or fit so well, but because they’ve been produced in such a sustainable way. Right?

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 10.1

y l n o s i It y e n o h , n o i t u l o rev

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in g h t o l c e tag n i V Levi’s

world that clean, simple design can also reflect the free spirit and the freedom of time. The younger generation that extends into the late thirties doesn’t want anything more than simple, well-fitting jeans and a shirt in order to express what it wants: freedom and lightness, total simplicity. And all of that in a price segment that makes revolution possible and leaves a little something to feed spouse and child, because revolution for one person alone never works out. All in a slim fitting look, a synonym for the simple life on the road, always one revolution ahead.

☛ Find us at l.o.c.k. — H7 6

59 BIG TIME

t’s always the small things that cause change and even smaller things that trigger something like a little revolution. And sometimes it’s not that small at all, sometimes it occupies more minds than was originally intended and later becomes a cult. That’s the best thing that can happen to a brand. Levi’s is a jeans manufacturer of the old school and that's great because they can access knowledge and things that many competitors don’t have access to every day. They’ve been supplying new generations and revolutionaries with their casual look for as long as anyone can remember. Since the 1960s and 1970s, Levi’s have put a little orange label on their trousers and jackets to signal to the

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By henrik Kürschner

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Hilfiger Denim

The Prep way of life

bread & butter berlin

By Sebastian schmid

BIG TIME

urely it was Tommy Hilfiger’s unbridled enthusiasm that laid the foundation for his success. Right after high school, in the year 1969, he founded a small chain of shops at the gates of New York — with a mere 150 dollars start-up capital. But beyond that it was a style phenomenon that is deeply engrained in American culture that inspired Hilfiger and which defined the elegant yet subtle charm of his sportswear and denim creations. From the early days in the Eighties till this day, preppy style is one of Hilfiger’s leitmotifs that is firmly anchored in the DNA of the brand. But what exactly is preppy style and what are its defining qualities?

Origins in American prep schools The term prep comes from the US and derives from prepartory schools. These renowned schools, many located on the East Coast, prepare students for entrance into (elite) universities and have a long tradition stateside. From the very beginning, these schools followed certain fashion conventions. On the one hand, there were the traditional school uniforms of the prep schools which were often made up of classic blue blazers and khaki trousers. On the other hand, the types of sports popular among privileged circles influenced the development of the preppy style — from

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riding and polo to sailing. Which is why, from the very beginning, the polo and rugby shirt embossed with school emblems, as well as pullovers and varsity style cardigans, defined the origins of this look. From the classic to the conservative, the sportwear-inspired clothing style became the trademark of the prep schools and found many followers beyond the schools themselves. Former president John F. Kennedy and his wife Jackie were famous proponents of this style. In the Sixties, prep became a term for a way of dressing for the first time. Penny loafers or boat shoes with rolled up chinos, striped Oxford shirts under a navy blue blazer or cableknit cardigans became some of the characteristic key styles of prep that still define the look today.

The Prep World Tour As a pioneer of preppy style, Hilfiger went on an international tour in the year 2011. “The Prep World Tour” aimed to celebrate the individual, one-of-a-kind interpreation of the Tommy Hilfiger “preppy classics with a twist” style at diverse locations

around the world. Preppy has long become a global phenomenon. You’ll find proponents of the style the world over — from the beaches of Sylt to the concrete canyons of New York City. The tour began in Paris and continued through various American and European cities — from Stockholm and Amsterdam to Madrid. And to lend the whole thing the necessary prep flair, the “Prep World Capsule Collection” was launched at the same time, which brought together American motifs with European cuts. Also on the tour, was the “Prep World Pop-up Store”, based on an East Hampton vacation house — complete with mansard roof and dog house for the obligatory basset hound. Surely one of the preppiest places in the world. Still today, one finds prep heritage in every Hilfiger creation. The classic womens and mens collections offer “all-American prep style”, while Hilfiger Denim represents the “preppy with an edge” side of the brand. The sportswear collection presents elegant classics with modern twists and details, while the Hilfiger denim collection boasts forward-looking designs with modern finishing which are inspired by American fashion classics. The Hilfiger denim collection titled “The Modern Prep” for Autumn/Winter 2013 brings together the return to college with adventures in nature. Current themes include “Bookworm” and “Homecoming”, with campus-inspired reinterpreations of the classic college looks of the Fifties, Sixties and Seventies. A return to a time when a new look developed somewhere between the school library and the beach house, the country club and the tennis court — the preppy style.

☛ Find us at Urban Base — A 65

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Spread the prep With the arrival of the Eighties came a time when the preppy style finally broke out of elite schools and country clubs and became accessible to a broader public. In 1985, Hilfiger introduced a men’s collection with new interpretations of classic button down shirts and khaki trousers. Under the slogan “Preppy with a twist”, it was never just about reintroducing classic clothing, it was about transferring it to the fashion of the moment: “We took everything that was stiff, and we beat it, we wanted to make it worn and salty. And I think that that’s what people gravitated towards, because it wasn’t like their parents.” Hilfiger’s approach of reinterpreting classics and embuing them with an aura of youth, proved popular and runs like a thread through all of the brand's designs. Ever since Hilfiger Sportswear has been considered equal parts sporty and elegant. A trendy esprit and a latent conservative chic come together — a formula that has lasted for more than 25 years. A “Classic American Cool” look under a logo in the American national colours.

Tommy Hilfiger

61 BIG TIME

The prep way of life But preppy was and is not just a fashion phenomenon. The term has also become synonymous with an attitude, an entire lifestyle — as evidenced by a handbook on preppy culture. In 1980 the American writer Lisa Birnbach, who defined herself as preppy, published the “Official Preppy Handbook”, a huge success that remained at the top the New York Times bestseller list for 38 weeks.

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Napapijri

s p e t s t o In the fo rer o l p x e e of th By sebastian Schmid

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

xpeditions to icey glaciers or trips through vast natural expanses and distant lands — that is the world that has inspired the products of the Napapijri brand. The company name derives from the Finnish for “Arctic Circle”. And yet, other than you would first assume, the company was founded in Aosta, Italy in 1987. Since then, Napapijri has embodied a fresh, Nordic image, despite its southern roots. Fundamental to the brand is a deep connection to nature that is closely tied to the strong emotions evoked by dreams of adventure, endless expanses of sky and breathtaking landscapes. But the brand not only speaks to outdoorsy types. It’s more about appealing to individualists who are driven by a desire to travel to faraway places — but who can also live this passion in an urban context. To convey these complex ideas of adventure

and travel, the clothing items by Napapijri, which have carried a Norwegian flag as a trademark since 1990, incorporate the most diverse materials, colours and patterns. In the current collection for the coming winter season, one finds the motif of the journey as a treasure trove of cultural experiences, but also travelling as stylistic evolution. With these two perspectives as a starting point — they have always informed the philosophy of the Napapijri brand — two design realms, “Geographic” and “Authentic”, were conceived. Here the scenarios range from “Urban Cycling” to outdoor adventure and cover a vast range of products, from classic jersey polos and sweatshirts to warm wool jackets with fleece fill all the way to “Napa-tech”, the highperformance segment of the collection.

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? ARE C DO YOU

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Care label

Care label does not focus on a highly visible, ostentatious logo or trademark. Au contraire, in some models in the collection, the label on the back is covered by a ribbed paper patch, and the Care label mark shows up only after prolonged wear or a few machine washes. Another key mood maker are the rivets and buttons in pure copper. Once oxidized, they start showing the cotton flower icon. Care label creates the finest Italian denim with its trademark red and blue selvage for the selvage line. In addition to that, its premium line features a personalized back and fifth pocket. The inside of each jean shows fine silk-screen printing including the access password for the official Care label online blog: heritage meets the digital age! For the A/W 2013 collection, Care label is inspired by the sea, using greys and blues, the military color combinations of the Navy. Owning a pair of these threads, if anything, shows one thing: You Care !

☛ Find us at L.o.c.k. — H7 29.2

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nyone who buys a pair of jeans SHOULD care. He or she should care about the actual care of them as much as the way they are made. Care label, a very special denim label, certainly cares a lot. Down to the finest detail of a pair of Care label denim pants, care is at the forefront of the production process. The catchiness of the name bears a dual meaning: a “careful” brand and a “care” label. It oozes attention to detail and utmost focus on selecting the best materials for the best result for the most caring customers in Europe and beyond. The label’s foundation was built in 2007, when Leopoldo Durante, a man with over 20 years of blue spirit in his blood, met trend and media expert Lapo Elkann. Its concept was based on a “European Denim Line”, mix between tradition and innovation, classic style with modern influences. Character development, the final touch, of each pair of jeans is as always up to the very individual wear and tear of its owner. Care label is a young but special player on global “Team Blue”. Typical for its nonpretentious ways,

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By Tj b r u d e r

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candiani

THE CRADLE OF TRUE BLUE I

bread & butter berlin

By Danielle De bie

BIG TIME

t’s the colour of faith, reliability and commitment: blue. And there’s this deeper blue, symbolizing depth and calm, one which makes our hearts beat faster: indigo, the colour of denim, our all-time-favourite. Since its beginnings in the mid-19th century denim has witnessed eventful times. Countless myths and legends surround the blue fabric which has experienced ups and downs and many transformations. And so has the denim manufacturing industry. While Italy used to be the stronghold in the Nineties, Turkey took the helm in the new millennium, only to hand it over to South Asia — just a matter of pricing policy. And the story is far from over. Events of the past few months have triggered a rethink and could turn the whole story inside out again… While Italy seems to have lost its pioneering role in denim weaving, one milestone has remained completely unaffected by the Exodus: Tessitura di Robecchetto Candiani, better known as Candiani. Based in Robecchetto, a little town situated a stone’s throw from the fashion capital Milan, Candiani today do what they’ve always done best: weaving the world’s finest denim fabrics. Their products belong to the most soughtafter fabrics in the world. Today, Alberto Candiani stands at the top of the family-run enterprise which was founded by his great-grandfather in 1938. Candiani produced fabrics for work clothes in the beginning — a classic in denim. It’s with the installation of the first indigo dyeing range in 1976 that the company turned its back on boiler suits and focused fully on the production that lead to their success: denim fabric. Their innovative and pioneering spirit inspired Candiani to a take daring step at the end of the Eighties: they completely stopped open end production to fully focus on ring spun — a true revolution that involved evolution. They have since been producing for the

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Laboratorio For the 3rd time, Candiani present their Laboratorio at BBB’s January 2013 edition. The denim workshop provides visitors insight into the denim culture and manufacturing. They are invited to purchase a pair of jeans, made by hand and individualized in the prestigious “Candiani way”. The proceeds will be donated to Valemour and Laughing Hearts, two nonprofit organizations. Valemour helps people with intellectual disability to find work while Laughing Hearts supports orphans and socially disadvantaged children in Berlin in a long-term partnership.

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most prestigious names in the world. Asking Alberto who they produce for makes him smile — you’d better ask for whom they don’t produce, to make the response a bit easier and faster. It was not his choice to take over from his father Gianluigi. As a kid he was into hockey and crazy about music but… blood is thicker than water: the day he graduated from high school he had to learn that he’s blue blooded. After the graduation ceremony he went “home”, to the Candiani site. The rest is history. Alberto cannot imagine his life without denim, without the company or the 670 employees whom he’s so proud of. He knows nearly all of them by name and many of them have known him for more than 30 years. Continuous growth, improvement and evolution are essential to Candiani; the most advanced machinery is as important to them as the most experienced operators — fundamental know-how are key elements since denim has transformed from its orginal nature, simple and basic, into a sophisticated and refined fashion object. At Candiani 35 million metres leave the warehouse each year! Solid as a rock Candiani stood strong amidst the crisis of the past few years, 2011 being the worst year that the denim industry had seen for a long time. There can only be one good way to remain successful in difficult times: quality! The qualities of blue: faith, reliability and commitment, depth and calm.

bread & Butter for charity

bearhug big & bold from the Heart Case Scenario iPhone 5 Case EUR 25.–

bread & butter berlin

☛ Find us at the entrance!

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e’re bold, we’re brave and… we’re blessed, we’re standing on the bright side of life. Since the beginning BREAD & BUTTER encourages its guests to help those who are standing on the other side. For several years B&B supports the non-profit organization Laughing Hearts taking care of socially disadvantaged children in Berlin, B&B’s home town, in a long-term partnership. Sometimes it’s just these little things that make children laugh: Laughing Hearts takes care of clothes,

new braces, a visit to the movie theatre or the zoo, the membership of a sports club, an internship where they can learn about their skills, and so much more. By purchasing one of the rare items of the B&B charity collection which each season is created with the help of bold & brave brands YOU CAN HELP TOO! The limited editions are available throughout the three days at the B&B Charity booth. Be bold, be brave and… Make children smile!

bread & Butter for charity

Codello Scarf EUR 39.–

Pa p e rwa l l e t Wallet EUR 17.–

P o p u p Pa r i s Candle EUR 40.–

Eton Tie EUR 85.–

Austr alia Luxe Collec tive Slipper EUR 49.–

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Stetson Cashmere Beanie EUR 79.–

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bread & Butter for charity bread & butter berlin

Samsøe & Samsøe Men T-Shirt EUR 35.–

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E l e v e n Pa r i s Women T-Shirt EUR 35.–

le petit Marcel Kids T-Shirt EUR 20.–

Anvil T-Shirt / EUR 29.– Kids T-Shirt / EUR 15.–

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than k yo u al l for making this world a lit tle bet teR.

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Armor Lux Caban EUR 269.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

culture

Bridging the Gap Doing good & looking great: With *folorunsho, Mallence Bart-Williams is helping street kids help themselves by creating unique high-end shoes and apparel. By Thomas klein

bread & butter berlin

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ike every good story, this one involves a bit of coincidence, luck, maybe even fate. It goes like this: In 2008 Mallence Bart-Williams travelled to Freetown, the capitol of Sierra Leone, at a local tailor she wanted to get a jacket for her brother, musician Patrice. Noticing a group of rough and tough looking teenagers in the street, Bart-Williams did not let anyone discourage her from meeting them. When they got talking, she found the teenagers to be literally in a very bad place. Victims of 11 years of civil war that had devastated the country, some were orphaned but all were left to fend for themselves, living on the street and in the gutter, under a bridge at a place called “Lion Base”. Necessity and desperation drove them, but there was more to them than posturing, violence, petty crime: Coming up with their respective street personas

and making their own clothes, combining international mainstream streetwear designs with traditional techniques and styles, Bart-Williams quickly realized their impressive, untapped creative potential. Thus, with twenty of the young Sierra Leonean men aged between 14 and 22 she created the “Folorunsho Design Project” (“Folorunshu” being Bart-Williams middle name and meaning “born under the eye of God” in the Yoruba language). Roughly four years later, the *folorunsho has turned into an unlikely success story. Having studied finance and economics in Paris, Singapore and the UK, Mallence Bart-Williams managed to have the fresh, authentic designs by the Lion Base men end up in high-street boutiques around the world from Colette in Paris to Berlin’s 14 oz. store at the Haus Cumberland. Collaborations with major

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Freetown, it’s “giving something back to the community” on a global scale. That has enabled the project to pay for the young ex-Lion Base men, who were able to leave the streets in November 2011 and rent a house, attend private school or hire a private teacher for the ones that have never learned how to read and write. Therefore, they are not only perfecting their design and production skills but also getting fresh, new perspectives away from the street. Helping them help themselves and creating a stable, sustainable long-term concept that might (and should) inspire similar endeavors is important to Mallence Bart-Williams. To keep the Sierra Leonean street kids/streetwear producers in the foreground of the project, there’s already been a „Lion Base“ book accompanying the k1x collab; at the moment, BartWilliams’ brother is putting finishing touches on the short film “The Rising Of The Son” he shot with the *folorunsho members late last year. As the *folorunsho project puts it: “The more you give the more you get! Whenever you share with others you realise how much you have. When you give, you feel rich. We want to share with you all we have, especially our joy, strength, passion and creativity.”

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players helped the project gain attention and business reach. One of the earliest partners of *folorunsho was k1x and the collab produced a limited edition, hand-made batik sneaker that uses the Ankara model’s clean-cut outline to showcase traditional Sierra Leonean color work. Since then, other things have followed: Working with LEE, *folorunsho produced hand-embroidered jeans shirts made in Freetown, in addition the project’s I’M POSSIBLE jewelry added a nifty twist on classic bling. Next up is a collab with CYBEX for a *folorunsho baby stroller. But while business is booming for *folorunsho, this is not just about business. As much as Mallence Bart-Williams likes the idea that the project is promoting traditional styles and techniques from Sierra Leone and creating international awareness for African arts and crafts and designs both old and new, she still puts the social component of the project front and center. Bart-Williams doesn’t believe in charity (*folorunsho being about sharing and not hand-outs, she coined the term “sharity”) and refuses donations. Operating *folorunsho as a financially self-sufficient enterprise with all proceeds from collabs and sales going straight back to

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little marcel

e z e e r b h c n e r f a By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

rance, a place that is very similar with all that we find beautiful and soothing. As one looks out onto the Atlantic, a fresh breeze, sitting in the sand and touching the reeds as the get blown over. Just being here makes you want that this will never be over, ever. Being one with nature and being conscious about your place in the world. A wonderful moment of bliss, embedded in the french Carmargue. Could it ever get better ? It could ! France is as Europe as it gets and here the brand Little Marcel saw the light of day on one beautiful morning. When in twothousandandfive Lynda Leseigneur and Eric Schieven were exactly here in the Carmargue, by the the seaside. It started out with a classic shirt, a typical thing from France, the “marcel.” A classic tank top kind of shirt which soon let to a much bigger prospect, a real brand. It comes with the whole range of basically everything: womens apparel, accessories

and shoes, kids and shoes, baby born collection and finally the Men Collection, with many licensees around the globe. This is the way it is living in a globalized world it, it grows fast when you a have a vision and can focus on what you want and where you want it — marcel is a child that came into a fun adolescence and kept it that way, the way it should be, and it has grown up to be some responsible young adult to take care of things, not only business. It has the ring of a modern fairy tale, from rags to riches in a mere 7–8 years and here they are with bold colorblocking and cuts straight from the fifties, bright red stockings and most of fun in what they could put into theses garments. They have a vision and they wont stray away from that and that is, why they are successful.

☛ Find us at urban fashion hall 2 — H4 28.2

y l e v i t a e r C h s a C Carry

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paperwallet

flavour to his wallet design, Apple Jelly’s SLip going all xerox-collage-retro with his lion astronaut or Marzini Oliveira’s maze of highly detailed vector art on a card holder, Paperwallet takes art and artists out of the street and galleries and puts the good stuff into people’s hands and pockets. Anyone who ever scribbled merrily away — on a piece of paper, a pencase or what have you — has to appreciate this combo of material and style. And Paperwallet is actually very interested in people’s DIY work and encourages both yet overlooked pros as well as talented outsiders to send in their designs. With a just released Ladies Clutch Series, Series 4 Artist Wallets and some very exiting future collabs already set up with international artists both wellknow as well as yet to be properly discovered, Paperwallet keeps going strong. That the company and B&B collaborate on a product for B&B for Charity seems only fitting: Paperwallet may be about carrying cash, but it sure ain’t all about the money.

☛ Find us at Treasury — T 3.1

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efore we get started: The name is a bit of a misnomer. While there’s a high percentage of actual paper in Paperwallet’s products, the material they use is actually flashspun high-density PE called Tyvek. This lightweight, paper-thin mix of paper and PE fibres not only makes for surprisingly strong, durable, tear-resistant and waterproof material but is also 100 percent recyclable. Eco-friendliness is very important for the company: In addition to using only recycled and recyclable materials, Paperwallet is offering people who send in their old product a 15 percent discount on a new one. A great deal for all involved, including good old mother nature. But following modern-day concepts of sustainability is only a pleasant side effect with Paperwallet’s business model and design approach. Apart from some delightfully simple, monochromatic items in spicy orange or classic black, almost all of Paperwallet’s products sport fresh, original graphics in limited editions. Whether it’s Venezuelan-born artist and illustrator Masa bringing some heavy, colorful pop-art

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By Thomas klein

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tiger of sweden

By henrik kürschner

the eye of the tiger bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

ather time is a strange comrade because he changes things that you can’t actually change and he goes to places which are impossible to get to. If you can make time your friend, then you’ve got it very good, but as we all know: time waits for no-one. And because that’s the way things are, the lads from Tiger of Sweden have used time, subdued it and always made what they loved. Suits. But let’s start from the beginning, because Tiger has existed for more than a hundred years — and there’s a reason for that. Schwarzmann and Nordström was the actual name of the company, but the company was a thoroughly novel idea, it wanted to offer consumers a new experience. They went to their customers — they didn’t wait for them to come to them — a totally new undertaking. They came with a “difference cut”, something that hadn’t existed before, a “state of mind”. Even the Second World War didn’t dim the lights for the Tigers, because they worked for the Swedish army,

☛ Find us at Urban superior Hall 2 — H6 19

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75 BIG TIME

bringing their knowledge and striking cuts to the common man. The war ended and Tiger of Sweden went straight back to work with one of the most modern factories in Europe — sending out a signal and getting men back into suits. All that could happen now was for society to change. Everyone — or let’s say nearly everyone — was riding the Flower Power wave. Nothing was more frowned upon than a suit. Taking the long view, they even managed to survive this. The 1970s drifted by, a lot happened in the pop art scene, until the 1980s came along, a time when absolutely everything was turned on its head, and when a music revolution made everything different again in the 1990s, things weren’t really ideal for a company that makes suits. But here, again, things are as they are. If you’d made friends with time and then bet on the right horse, because back when Kurt Cobain was the measure of all things, the suit was on the verge of extinction. And then, with the first collection, came the real bombshell, inspired by the Mods of the 1960s: sharp silhouettes and staight cuts, trousers hinting at the greatest jeans icons in history. Everything seemed perfectly planned towards this moment, because now they’re coming, with all the force, stepping on the accelerator — and they’re right. Suits come out of the banks onto the streets, back into the middle of life. The blazer is worn combined with anything and everything, contributing to the liberation of the suit. Suddenly the blazer is a relaxed article that you can wear, which even underscores the relaxed touch in everything. A new trend was born and today the trend has become a positive touch. Every thread of the company seems connected to the statement “A Different Cut“ and to this means everyone, from the worker in the factory to the pattern cutter, they all have a “different view”, to give the company what it needs, diversification and charm. As a company, Tiger of Sweden never did what people expected of it, but what was good for itself.

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M i n us M i n i m u m

e d a M — Fall By henrik kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

enmark, it seems that everything that is anything these days is coming from Denmark and for a good reason. The Danes are very well different from others in Europe as they have mindset that differs from others as the DIY is a whole different game up there. When in 1997 Peder Tang opened his small retail shop in the centre of Aarhus he did not know what would become of MINIMUM but something seemed to put him before his competitors. Maybe it was his attention to detail, even to the name is the concept of the Brand but it is also the most important thing. Isn’t it always the hardest part to make something look easy, yes it is, very much so. When they launched the female production in 2007 they undermined the stronghold of the company. They had managed to grow the small shop into a big company that is stocked throughout the globe.

The MINIMUM collections are characterized by a interesting mixture of materials, shapes and colours creating a desirable collection for him and her. Based on the seasonal trends minimum continues to present stylish and functional collections season after season, creating the link between denim and designer fashion. The annual collections are divided into four main collections and six express collections, guaranteeing the best selection of current tendencies maybe even finding some trends on their own. It is the small things that make the difference and so they will try to conceive and develop progressive, young designs with undertones of scandinavian coolness and metropolitan edge to young women and men on the international stage, less became more and MINIMAL became maximal.

☛ Find us at URBan fashion Hall 1 — H3 15.1

o g e r a s a t s i n o i fash

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ModstrÖm

namics and acute fashion of high quality. A brand that shows a flair and unusual sense for design. Varying in look and style adapting to a constantly changing fashion industry as well as to the needs for renewal on the market. Their philosophy is to create new styles by constantly presenting season specific collections. Modström is born to fulfill the present’s needs for new express fashion. With the short-term delivery we get closer to the fashion tendencies of the future. This encourages a close dialogue with the retailers and provides them with improved cash flow due to the speedy product turn-around time which the concept enables.

☛ Find us at URBan fashion Hall 1 — H3 26.2

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odström was founded in 2004 and has now achieved great success in the Danish and international fashion industry with 6 yearly express collections. They are a team of young fashionistas with backgrounds in retail, sales, branding and design. They aim to be innovative, impulsive and differentiating. The concept with more and shorter termed collections is being carefully prepared and groundbreaking whilst adding the Danish fashion industry with something new and thoroughly considered with 6 yearly collections spiced up with extra seasonal drops in between the main collections. Already Modström is gaining success on both the Danish and international fashion scene. The look signals femininity but with a raw touch. The style reflects dy-

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By henrik kürschner

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kaffe

M A E R D S I H & N A M A By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

tree is one of natures most and effective living beings. As it can be strong and big it can also be thin and flexible but most important is how its roots are integrated into the ground to give the tree. Everything about a tree symbolizes organic growth, a slow and steady process but neverending. If you have a company and look at it that way that you would think about a flower or tree you would need to take most care of the people that work for you as they are the ones that make you flower or tree grow, if any of these guys is not working for you he is influencing your whole system with something you do not want in your business, tree rot which can spread like a wildfire. So believing in your company is always a plus and the win-win from there on up is also a good thing to

have. When Jens Poulsen bought KAFFE in 2004 he just had the best in mind as he is living by standards that are basically the same as nourishing a flower up or said tree into a healthy big ecological being. Once you would have understood that, it is easy, because you live your whole life after this concept and you have it floating into your fashion as well. Kaffe is more than just fashion, it is more like a family that is taking care of each other and every time you buy an item of them you are becoming a part of the family and here you are sticking together, looking good in what you wear, since KAFFE is more than a promise to look good in, it is the promise that you will be looked after.

☛ Find us at Upper street — H2 15.1

he c ni l u f success

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e Samsøe & samSø

you find the small niches, inside this market has to offer, it will grant you opportunities beyond belief and even more it will lead you to what you have always thought impossible to find, real freedom. With great success and experience Samsøe & Samsøe has taken on Scandinavia and is today acknowledged as a successful, progressive brand throughout Scandinavia promoting modern design for an international market. The brand is available far and wide and reflects personality, identity, credibility, innovation and quality with attention to detail. The leadership style, the freedom and a democratic approach to design are some of the driving forces behind the company. Samsøe & Samsøe is a force to be reckoned with, for the long haul.

☛ Find us at urban superior hall 1 — H5 10

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t is the North again, Denmark, one more time to be exact and we find again some people who make their own luck. The identity of Samsøe & Samsøe is based upon unique and recognizable Scandinavian design. The clean look that the world loves and embraced over. The look is built on ideas of freedom and simplicity. With raw details, denim as well as tailored details the collections are designed to match current trends and meet the market where he is at right now.The ambition is to develop an attractive, market-oriented and international design based on Scandinavian design tradition. The current portfolio consists of clothes, shoes and accessories for both women and men. With their concept and design they aim to be a leading brand within their area of operating. Clothes, which is a vast field as we all know but if

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By henrik Kürschner

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URBAN{e} LOOKS T

he so called urban wear has its origins in New York’s Bronx — the birth of hip hop in 1975 is at the same time the genesis of what’s called urban style. With MTV going on air in 1981 the style of stars like RUN D.M.C. and Beastie Boys jumped right into our living rooms and to our wardrobes.

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By danielle de bie I l l u s t r at i o n s by m o n ja g e n t s ch ow

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These looks that were inspired by the streets have very much changed since then: the street has remained the urban wear’s role model but the looks are different. No longer limited to baggy pants and baseball cap today, urban wear has a broader meaning: denim, sportswear, casual, street wear, upper casual… by crossing segments this style is as versatile as never before. The streets are proof of these many faces. And BREAD & BUTTER is. The next pages show to what extend urban has become urbane.

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BLACK TIE

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WHITE NOISE

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☛ Look by AQUAVERDE

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school

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â&#x2DC;&#x203A; Look by CLOSED

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â&#x2DC;&#x203A; Look by DRYKORN

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areas

access all

â&#x2DC;&#x203A; Look by JOOP!

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s ta n d i n g

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☛ Look by MARC O’POLO

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Liu Jo

! p u t i e c Spi By Thomas klein

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

he collections of Liu Jo pack some serious street glam. Thinking of Italian fashion conjures up images of the heyday of classic fashion in the 1950’s and 1960’s, of to-die-for signorinas modelling very expensive, cutting-edge chic from the biggest designers on the runways of Milan, Rome or Florence. The long and rich heritage of Italian fashion can be quite intimitading and a heavy burden for the country’s modern designers who constantly have to work with or against customers’ perceptions. That makes the success of Liu Jo based in Carpi (Modena) all the more noteworthy. Founded in 1995 by the Marchi brothers, Marco and Vannis, the company started modestly but quickly became known for its’ high-quality knitwear and cardigans. Today it’s a highly diversified brand catering to a broad customerbase with a wide variety of sub labels like Liu Jeans, Liu Jo Accessories, Liu Jo Shoes, Liu Jo Home, Liu Jo Luxury, Liu Jo Ju-nior Baby Honey and Ajay. Establishing itself as a serious but not boring fashion house, Liu Jo managed to distinguish the

brand by marrying runway ideas with streetwear cool. Whether you want to spice up your no-nonsense outfit with choice items or give your laidback, urban look a touch of elegance by adding some fashion magic (their numerous bags collection, ranging from clutch to notebook bag, being classy, popular standouts), Liu Jo supplies just what you need. Call it “street glam”. While managing to use Kate Moss as a face for advertising the brand definitely didn’t hurt, it’s Liu Jo’s dedication to quality and an eye for detail that convinces customers looking for an elegant, slighty dangerous, but fun aesthetic. The new Spring collection continues Liu Jo’s succesful approach with long printed skirts, inventively used dots and prints, noticeably tweaked timeless silhouettes heavy on silvery greys, black and white with some turquoise and rose items for maximum effect. Combined with denim and the right attitude, it’s magical. It’s street glam.

☛ Find us at urban Base — A 26

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lili radu

ety of colors the make up clutch combines the best of both worlds. As the clutch serves as a make up bag with all the needed compartments, it also offers all the things a wallet needs, as to hold your cards and even your iphone. It is a wonderful gadget that you need to show up with at the next thing you are invited to. It sure will turn heads, a few necks will be broken. Lili Radu is the Label of said Lili Radu as she and her young label stands for classic, timeless elegance and as every piece is impeccable in their finishing every piece can be used as a beautiful evening accessoire or also as a business bag. Always on point with Lili Radu.

☛ Find us at Treasury — T 1.1

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elcome to a world where it is not usual to be the one with the make up loose in her handbag. Welcome to be organized, welcome to Lili Radu. Since the early days when women were out and about they had the neverending quest of where to stash their make up AND their other personal belongings but fret no more, as Lili Radu has come to your rescue. She is the one that makes you feel wonderful as it is her accessoiries that come like a Bat Belt, the very belt that Batman has and helps him in any given situation, and for you it will be the one that will give you also the extra mile you need in the game. May it be party or personal. Made from finest calfskin and coming in a vari-

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By henrik kürschner

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ESK CASHMERE

e v i t ec l l o c y t i l a u q By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

uality is never an accident, it is always the result of intelligent effort is a thing John Ruskin once said. While coming from Scotland quality would be something you absolutely need in everything you produce, you need an eye for quality and attention to detail as your product should live long in these hard conditions that Scotland has to offer. When needed the best brands come out from these hard conditions up in the north, because here it is where nature lets you see beauty in it’s most rare from, naked and raw, and you have to be a nature’s boy to fully grasp it. And this is where ESK , the collective, comes into play. They are creatives who are all backed up by a wide range of artisans and highly skilled craftspeole and they all have one common goal: to make the best knitwear you can find. Not even only the best but the most beautiful as well an as Scotland is a land of people who are not in it for

the money, but for the art of making something beautiful. Under the same roof in Scotland everything will be done, yarns are carefully chosen and they try to use the very small but rich spinners of the very said country. Only natural and the very most noble fibres are used as it is a feeling that is natural to use only the best as the design and inspiration is gathered by looking around into the landscape surrounding them. Hand thrown ceramics, printmaking and crafted furniture are another source of ideas, they are always in awe of the work of the artist. They aspire to be the knitwear destination for the discerning eye of creatives and professionals in every field. A best kept secret passed on by friends. ESK, honest, considered and uncompromised.

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 13.2

mariner

Brands

Armor Lux

more than 70 years of experience in high quality wear. Armor Lux has always been a company committed to sustainable development and-has-thus been deeply involved in the local life of the beautiful region of Brittany. Armor Lux supports the 10 principles of the United Nations Global Pact. The company takes part in sustainable development actions implemented by NGO’s, is licensed by Max Havelaar for Fairtrade Cotton and is today the biggest buyer of FairtradeCotton-Yarn in France. About 2 years ago Armor lux has started its “Heritage Collection” and presented it for the first time on the BBB show. This collection tells the history of the beautiful and unique garments of Brittany and at the same time it tells our story through the different old knitting techniques that we let live again in some selected pieces. And in the center of this all stands there iconic product: the Breton striped shirt.

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 27.2

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here Titans clash, and where the sky meets the Ocean is were exceptional things happen and also extraordinary brands are born. Brittany is where all this happens and this is also where the magic happened and ideas got real. The Bonneterie d’Armor was founded in 1938 by Swiss-German businessman and engineer Walter Hubacher as he started with creating a production of high quality underwear and Breton striped shirts under the brand “Armor Lux”. In 1965 the company bought its first dying facility making it thus fully functional and therfore vertical.In the seventies the company created its first real prêt-à-porter collection, at that time consisting of underwear, striped mariner shirts and mariner jumpers, all around now to be considered classics. In 1982 Armor Lux started its first brand shops and after Jean-Guy Le Floch and Michel Gueguen took over in 1993, a total of 35 shops have been installed allover France. Today Bonneterie d’Armor includes three production facilities in France, 650 employees and

for the bold & Brave brands

By henrik Kürschner

brands

Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp.

TRUE

bread & butter berlin

1984

BIG TIME

“Once Upon A Time In America,” a legendary gangster epic and final film by Sergio Leone conquers cinemas. It's a story of protection-money extortion, alcohol smuggling and organised crime; of power, wealth, greed, bravery and betrayal. But also one of unconditional freindship and solidarity. In the centre of it all: James Woods in the role of Maximilian “Max” Bercovicz and Robert de Niro as David Aaronson aka “Noodles”. Skip to the early 1990s. Three guys from Neuss shake up the Cologne party and fashion scene. With a preference for the “industrial romantic” aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s, they hold events in abandoned workshops and shuttered factories — industrial orphans, that contain treasures; the furniture of earlier times: steel safes, tables, chairs, lamps, carelessly abadoned and condemned to the scrapyard by Generation Ikea. In a secret studio, a former honey filling plant,the steel orphans became solid, vintage furniture — a business idea is born. The name for the manufacturer comes to them quickly: Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. — an expression of their deep connectedness and friendship — all for one, one for all. 1991. A Levis commercial goes around the world. Brad Pitt plays a freed convict. How sexy can a steel brace be?! The hour of birth of Noodles Noodles & Noodles’ first own

AS STEEL By Danielle De bie

brands

The two founders Kristyan Geyr (far left) and Wolfgang Ahlers (second from right) with their crew

are a permanent fixure of BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN : The Fire Department at L.O.C.K . is completely decked out with furniture by Noodles Noodles & Noodles, underscoring the dominant spirit of subtantial, everlasting quality. The Berlin company has also equipped various stores, including Fott in Moscow. For mere mortals, individual items of furniture can be purchased at selected dealers such as Exil in Berlin and Mobitare in Zürich. One more question to end with: What do Robert de Niro and Brad Pitt have in common? The answer is right in front of you: Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp.

☛ Find us at L.o.c.k. — H7 23.4

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project: a bed made from steel. The name spreads like wildfire: Jailhousefuck. More monument than bedstead. The essential accessory, a pair of Smith & Wesson handcuffs, comes free with delivery. The steel bed quickly obtained cult status in the fashion and design scene. Noodles Noodles & Noodles becomes a household name — the bed stars in all kinds of photography and video productions. 2013. Brad Pitt’s greying. But the Jailhousefuck is as cool as ever. Steel doesn’t deteriorate. And Noodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. has a lot more to offer than a bed with the provocative name. Besides beds whose names “Rendezvous” and “Heavensgate” sound equally promising, sideboards, cupboards, clothes racks, shelves, tables and stools round out their furniture line. The company, having since moved from Neuss to Berlin, is a force to be reckoned with — and is specialised only in steel furniture. The robust, high-quality pieces have character and they’re made to last forever. Shunning constant changing trends, they stand for old-fashioned values — honest products with substance, a step up from the usual “better living” mishmash. Manufactured by hand using traditional craft techniques, the furniture made from steel and wood — the most primal of all materials — is built to last for generations. Lasting values. Fashion is and remains an important pillar of their business: for several seasons, the unusual, charismatic elements

for the bold & Brave brands

oodles Noodles & Noodles Corp. — an expression of their deep connectedness and friendship — all for one, one for all.

brands

Schott Nyc x American college usa

By sebastian Schmid

remake of a classic bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

hen innovation and history come together, synergies are created that allow iconic styles to appear with new brilliance. The best example is the latest collaboration between American College and Schott NYC, who together have given the classic bomber jacket a stylish update. Style elements from military clothing have often found their way into civilian closets — from cargo pants to the Pea Coat, to all kinds of accessories like glasses and watches. Anyhow, the classic nylon bomber jacket is, in its original form as the MA-1, an undisputed milestone of military style. The nylon bomber jacket first appeared in the late Fifties when they were issued to pilots in the US Air Force. But far away from the military arena, the jacket established itself in many fashion contexts of everyday civilian life, thanks to its light weight, robust nylon material and timeless design. This long tradition and the iconic status of the bomber jacket was reason enough for the guys at

American College to decide to shine the spotlight on the jacket once again which a new edition. The question of “how?” and “with whom?” “What does this jacket need for the year 2013?” was the first question. AC didn’t want to look for the answer by themselves. While searching for a potential partner, the people at American College soon realised that only one brand came in question: Schott NYC — and the collaboration was quickly sealed, as Laurent of AC recalls: “We took the phone and asked them to make it together and both of us were certain at the first sight that it would work great!” No sooner said than done! The starting gun for a collaboration in which two stories complement one another perfectly — because they couldn’t be more different from one another. On one side is Schott NYC, an icon in all things authentic, enduring clothing. Managed by

brands

Classic style with a new fit The result of the collaboration shows what happens when two very different perspectives come together: a new version of the classic bomber jacket. Every one of the jacket’s characteristic features remain. From the ribbed cuffs, the nylon outer material, the inside padding in contrasting colours to the small pocket with zipper in the left upper arm. Made with the only the best, most robust workmanship, in an iconic style — and yet

with a new, fashionable close fit as well as cobranding on the chest and sleeves. Not only the cut and details were reworked, but the colour range of the bomber jacket is wider than ever before. In the Fifties, only the original colours “Sage Green” and “Midnight Blue” existed. The new edition by American College and Schott NYC will be available in more than 16 colours. If you add it all up — the classic style, the characteristic details, the new “fitted” cut and the huge assortment of colours — it becomes clear that this bomber has everything a jacket needs in the year 2013.

☛ Find us at Upper Street — H2 14.1

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the third and fourth generations of the Schott family, the company invented the “Perfecto”, the first biker jacket with a zipper which even legends like Marlon Brando wore. A company whose headquarters have been located in an old-fashioned brick building in the middle of New York City for nearly 100 years and which, in the Forties, supplied the US Army with flying jackets and Pea Coats. On the other side is a young enterprise named American College. The story of two school friends who came up with the idea of reinventing the classic varsity jacket while sitting in a pavement café. After the jacket came a whole collection of college-inspired clothing. In the three years since, the company has grown into a flourishing, trendy brand, one that is distributed in more than 20 countries.

for the bold & Brave brands

t becomes clear that this bomber has everything a jacket needs in the year 2013.

Culture

The Mission Manx

big Bikes big times

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

n invitation into the clubroom. Despite what the name suggests, there aren’t any elderly gentlemen surrounded by green velvet, playing billiards and savouring cigars while discussing the share prices of their companies. No, in this men’s club it’s about something completely different. Here in the cellar, there’s the faint whiff of gasoline and oil, though you can’t be sure whether the smell is really coming from the BMW 1978 R100/7 in the next room or directly from out of the veins of those present. In the hallway it still reeks of exhaust fumes, because “Brown Sugar” next door was idling for a moment. While the phase “he’s got gasoline in his blood” might have become bit of a platitude, here it’s pure reality. Johnny Cash is playing on the stereo and there’s a bottle of whiskey on the table.

By sebastian schmid

Clichés? No, just passion. It’s all for real. This is an epicentre of motorcycle passion and today it’s all about hearing more about an experience that might become one of the most important journeys of their lives: a motorcycle tour from Berlin to the Isle of Man. You can see the joy in the eyes of Marc, Lemmi and Christoph as they talk about a long-anticipated dream that is beginning to become a reality. From Berlin to the Isle of Man. 3,000 kilometres. Next summer a group of five or six friends wants to set out on their mission — “Mission Manx”. They’re sales managers, building contractors or publishers by trade. But besides their friendship, they are united by their passion for motorcycles. They ride old café racer style bikes and have been working on

culture

The Manx Grand Prix and the legacy of “Schorsch” The actual goal of the Berlin bikers, however, isn’t the Tourist Trophy, but a second renowned race event that takes places annually on the Isle of Man and has become at least as important as the TT in the history of the island. The “Manx Grand Prix” (the word “Manx” refers to the now-extinct language of the Isle of Man) has taken place since 1930 on the same 60 km circuit as the Trophy, with its unbelievable 250 curves. The difference is that this race includes various classic competitions with many historical motorcycles. The perfect place for the Berlin bikers to get inspired and meet other passionate enthusiasts, or else just soak up the nostalgia And follow in the footsteps of one of their great motorsport idols.

for the bold & Brave brands

From a tour to “Manx Grand Prix” A few points about the route are already fixed in place: from Berlin “Mission Manx” heads towards Paris. And of course in England there’ll be a visit to the legendary biker hangout “Ace Café” — one of the cornerstones of modern motorcycle culture — an absolute must. But why should the tour end at a small island in the Irish Sea that you can only reach by ferry? Simple: the Isle of Man is a true Mecca for motorcyclists. Located between England and Ireland, the island is barely 15 km wide

and 40 km long. While the Queen is the head of state of the island’s 75,000 inhabitants, the Isle of Man is nonetheless an independent country and has its own laws, in the truest sense of the word. Namely laws, that around the turn of the century, laid the groundwork for the island to develop into a motorcycling Mecca. With growing motorisation at the time in Europe, more and more road races took place, leading to plenty of deaths. As a consequence, such races were banned by law in most places. Instead of enacting such a law, the Isle of Man created the world-famous “Tourist Trophy” in order to boost tourism on the island. Since 1907, the TT has been considered one of the most dangerous, most prestigious motorcycle races in the world.

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their babies for years. The result is individualised gems, each a unique machine customised for its owner. The motorcycles are from the Seventies and Eighties — one is even from 1955 — and have names like “Bomber Doll”, “Earl Grey” and “Emma Opitz” in honour of a much-loved grandma. These details already say a lot about the origins of “Mission Manx”: four passionate bikers, some of whom have already toured Australia or participated in a rally through Africa, sit in their men’s clubroom, and feel drawn back to the road. The men want to ride to the Isle of Man. A plan for their biggest shared adventure yet quickly takes shape. That was the spark and in the meantime it’s not just the lads who love the idea. While looking for a reliable partner for their enterprise, they encountered the head honchos at BMW Motorcycles at BMW Motorcycle Days. They were more than enthusiastic about the idea of authentic, passionate riders embarking on such a traditional tour on classic street bikes. Since then, the company has been a solid partner and sponsor of the project.

Culture bread & butter berlin

In 1939 the legendary Georg “Schorsch” Meier become the first non-Briton to win the 264 mile TT race in the 500 class. Marc, Lemmi and Christoph make clear that BMW freaks like them are perfectly suited for the “Manx Grand Prix” with their historical bikes. There simply aren’t that many “yoghurt pots” — at they refer, with raised eyebrows, to the newer racing bikes with their plastic chassis. These men prefer a more raw style: “At the Manx you have plenty of exposed pipes and it just smells like nostalgia, it’s just awesome.” There it’s all about solid materials, classic forms and a raucous racket as opposed to plastic coverings and heated grips. ’Nuff said.

BIG TIME

From road trip to road movie Beyond the lads’ experiences and what will probably be some great personal memories, the “Mission Manx” experience will also be made accessible to others. A documentary is planned — a film about the passion, historical places, exciting encounters, the eternal call of the road and, more than anything, authentic motorcycles and their riders. The lads will be accompanied by two cameramen who are also motorcycle freaks. “You should take a look, and anyone who has anything at all to do with motorcycles will feel a rising passion to get on his bike and head out on a tour,” says Lemmi. The film will go for 30-45 exciting minutes. A script is in the works, though you can’t plan every little detail of a tour like this. Christoph knows this only too well: “We’ll have to work on our bikes, make repairs, ride through bad weather. We’ll meet people and experience 1,000 things which we have no idea about — and we want to capture just that and make a cool story out of it. We want to communicate an attitude.”

Only the good stuff But there’s one more thing about this trip. Because not only the bikes transport the style of this tour. The “Mission Manx” is also the ideal context for authentic brands. No, not a barrage of advertising or onslaught of tasteless marketing. The magic formula is “Use” and “Back to the origins”! “We’re trying to get a few selected brands on board: denim, leather — just the stuff we wear every day anyway. And to be really honest: is there any better opportunity than a tour like ours to return truly great products back to their original purpose?” explains Christoph. Marc jumps in: “True, what were all these things made for in the first place? They surely weren’t just sewn together to go on a leisurely stroll. But rather to kick the gear-shifter of my “Emma Opitz” several thousand times. And if a drop of oil gets on it, then at least the shoe won’t get dirty, it will gain some character. With 14 ounce denims or more, it’s no different. And so “Mission Manx” is also about tough guys on big machines, men who are living the spirit that so many of the brands in this area embody — whether in the from of robust denim, quality leather jackets or solid biker boots. Things that are just well crafted. Just like the motorcycles on “Mission Manx”. A Visit to Nigel Cabourn and a special edition by Laco. The lads know what they’re talking about. Not only because they themselves all have a developed sense of the style and quality of their equipment. But also because with Marc, Senior Sales Manager of the 14oz store in Berlin Mitte, they have a real expert in their midst. In the 14 oz. store, Marc started talking about the project to one of the greats of nocompromise menswear with a functional focus: Nigel Cabourn. The Brit was absolutely convinced.

culture for the bold & Brave brands

Other brands have expressed interest in “Mission Manx” and have been talking with Marc, Lemmi, Christoph and Co. It will be exciting to see who else the lads manage to get on board by the summer. Before I go, I ask one more time: how would you sum up the essence of the whole thing if you had to? Again, there is that sense of eager anticipation, as expressed by Marc: “Real guys on powerful rides. This tour is all about freedom and authenticity. We want to share this unspeakable sense of happiness that you feel when you have a powerful machine under your butt, when you’re blazing over asphalt with your mates and living your true destiny.” I’m no motorbike nut, but I think now at least I get what the hell he means by that! Stay tuned.

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Ever since, Newcastle is a fixed point on the “Mission Manx” tour. After London, the lads want to head straight north to visit Nigel in his home town where they’ve been warmly invited. Together, they hope to pay a visit to Aero Leather in Scotland, one of the top addresses for leather clothing. The project is also being supported by the traditional watchmaker Laco. The company from Pforzheim has since 1925 stood for classic, robust watches: from the pilot and sailor watches of the Forties to the classics of the Laco Sport series. For “Mission Manx”, Laco will launch a limited edition, for which the bikers will be encouraged to input their own ideas. The planning and exchange of ideas surrounding the collaboration are speeding ahead.

Brands

canada goose

e s i m o r p a n o m r a w g n i keep By Sebastian Schmid

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

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ade in Canada — not a slogan, a promise. “My coat and I live comfortably together. I only feel its presence because it keeps me warm.” This quote from Victor Hugo about his relationship with his coat couldn’t apply better to a brand than it it does to Canada Goose. Because the Canadian company’s products are all about this perfect symbiosis between a well-produced coat and its wearer. Since 1957, Canada Goose has grown to become the world’s leading manufacturer of outerwear for extreme weather conditions. From the urban winter to polar exhibition — Canada Goose is worn everywhere that it’s needed. Add to that, the qualities of conscientiousness, diligence, and an indepensible love of detail are firmly anchored in the company philosophy. Besides, its deep roots in its home country of Canada, in which till this day 100% of Canada Goose products are manufactured, play a decisive role. Because in Canada, cold and the extremely cold weather are a part of the national identity, a fact that transforms the “Made in Canada” label stitched into every piece from a slogan into a pro-

mise that ensures every customer that here people are at work who know the conditions for which this clothing is manufactured better than anyone else. In order for Canada Goose outerwear to really match the highest standards, not only excellent production techniques but also the use of the highest quality materials is essential. The traditional Canadian company uses a trim made from coyote fur on its hoods because this material never freezes and it does not absorb moisture. The company also has more than 40 years of expertise of creating the perfectly balanced down fill. In order for the wearer, product and intended use to be perfectly harmonised, Canada Goose developed the Thermal Experience Index (TEI), which provides information about which area of use a product is suitable for. The TEI ranges from “Lightweight” (to –5°) to “Extreme” for the coldest places on earth. In whatever conditions you find yourself, you’ll be able to remember the words of Victor Hugo: “My coat and I live comfortably together.”

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 37

t s a o c c i t n a l t a e h t g n o l a

Brands

lls i m n e l o o w n o t Pendle

symbol for the best woven woolen textiles. In order to relive the heritage and boundless pioneer spirit of the company founder, Pendleton Woolen Mills is launching the “Thomas Kay Collection” as the company’s signature brand in autumn 2013. The collection embodies Thomas Kay’s idea of weaving the best woolen products, meeting the highest possible standards. The portfolio will encompass classic-traditional clothing as well as accessories for her and him. Everything will be produced from the best Pendleton tweed, check and Jaquard fabrics. English refinement, harking back to the founder’s country of birth, and the style of the country in which he made his career, are perfectly blended in this collection. For the brand, the route ahead is always determined by one motto stemming from the depths of the Pendleton-Archive: “Where quality decides, we always win.”

☛ Find us at L.O.c.k. — H7 12.2

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n the middle of the 19th century, a young adventurous weaver left his home in Yorkshire, England for a long trip through America. When he arrived on the new continent, he first travelled along the Atlantic coast. He learned the skills of his trade in various textile factories — progressing from bobbin boy to master weaver. With the best training, he moved to America’s newest state in 1863. There, where the weather was mild and conditions were optimal for raising sheep: Oregon. His unbelievable talent for manufacturing fabrics enabled him to quickly build a company that soon became one of the most important sites for worsted wool west of the Mississippi. We’re talking about Thomas Lister Kay, the founder of the legendary Pendleton Woolen Mills, whose history goes back 150 years. Time to celebrate an anniverary! Kay’s legacy lives on till this day in the sixth generation, and still stands for honesty, authenticity and craftsmanship. Through the company’s absolute adherence to quality, Pendleton has become a

for the bold & Brave brands

By sebastian schmid

brands

Rising sun

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

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ith nothing more than the clothes on his back, Mike Hodis came to the USA in 1982. Hodis is the founder and designer of Rising Sun & Co. His first “new” threads evolved out of a second-hand clothing collection, a classic cord jacket with leather elbow patches: his pride and joy — with this blazer, he belonged; he looked like those people that he’d seen in the American TV shows he had watched in Romania before his family emigrated. The blazer felt like the ligitimisation of life in this new, foreign world in which style and identity played such an important role. He inherited his passion for fabrics and tailoring from his grandmother, a trained seamstress. As a kid, he watched on as she sewed clothing for him and his siblings. But his first love was another craft altogether: graphic design — and it is exactly this talent that makes him a more complete designer. Directly after graduating from design school, he worked as a graphic designer for a surf-wear manufacturer. He encountered denim for the first time at the second station on his journey: as a graphic designer he was responsible for the graphic designs of the denim division of a leading sportswear brand. He came up with the idea of designing a pair of jeans very different to those on the market at the time. They were produced... and just a few days later he was holding his first pair of self-designed jeans in his hands. He was hooked: indigo blue… a world of unlimited possibilities! He’s never let go of the blue fabric since!

ONCE UPON A TIME… By Danielle de bie

☛ Find us at L.O.C.K. — H7 23.3

brands for the bold & Brave brands

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After various other stops on the journey, he founded… Rising Sun & Co. and fulfilled the dream of a pair of jeans that harked back to time when “well-made things” were standard, a standard that is a luxury today. In June 2008, he opened his store on Fair Park Avenue, Los Angeles. The store is a tribute to the era of good things — store and workshop in one place. Walking in you feel transported back to the early 20th century when jeans — the workwear of the time — weren’t “produced” but were sewn. Here, step by step, stitch for stitch, a piece of clothing is made the same way as 80, 90 years ago, following traditional patterns, on parchment paper. The “indigo goods” are not sewn by factory workers, but by craftspeople: trained master tailors working on more than 80-year-old Singer one-needle backstitch machines. These authentic pieces of clothing are created with a huge amount of care and lots of love for detail and based on the workwear designs of yesteryear. The Rising Sun is a slice of modern history: jeans, jackets, vests and shirts evoke America’s pioneer years. They tell the creation story of the “New World”, and evoke the trailblazing spirit and optimism of its cowboys, farmers, track layers, workers and golddiggers. The tradition of American tailoring is reawakened, and under adept hands, firstclass, timeless denim wear takes shape out of high-quality Selvage fabrics and Chambrays. “Hand-made by qualified American workers” — more than a slogan, it’s a promise. Mike Hodis’ maxim: less is more. For him, the beauty of the fabric lies in its authenticity which gives the jeans their special touch. The so-called “whiskers”, the creases, traces of an identity, a storyteller... Show me how you wear your jeans and I’ll tell you who you are. For Mike Hodis, the versatile fabric has an equalising nature, it builds bridges. Everyone wears jeans, from millionaire to worker. Denim makes no class distinctions. Again and again, the blue fabric with its unbelievable wealth of characteristics, its depth and warmth, surprises Hodis. Denim is a part of who he is and he feels best when he’s surrounded by blue.

trends

steampunk

THE GHOST OF A STEAMTRAIN ECHOES DOWN MY TRACK { Pau l W e l l e r i n “A Tow n C a l l e d M a l i ce ”}

By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

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he world has ended. We can see it before our eyes. Every day it gets worse and every day there are a few people with an undying greed who want to munch a little more off this peculiar cake. They’re the people who argue over printed words, the small print — all day long. People with no vision, no imagination — all they believe in is a small, printed note. What if we all came together, pulled together to turn the world into what was promised to us back in the 1950s. Flying cars, floating apartment buildings and lakes that are so clean we can swim in them again. People who have ideal measurements and who haven’t been degraded into immoveable lumps of cellular matter by fast food chains. Can’t we sort all of this out again, can’t we just join forces to get a grip on everything again?

trends for the bold & Brave brands

Turning back the clock, making things by hand again, filtering and arriving at better results, and more than anything, doing it yourself. Reintroducing quality to show that more really is less, that this is what defines us, because we’ve long since arrived in the post-apocalypse and all that’s missing is the return of the steam engine, great and small, to our everyday lives. From the steam-powered pocket watch to the mainframe computer. It’s time to reflect. Not on those little printed notes, but upon the essence of what we produce — the work of our hands. High-quality in the fashion and denim sector. The small labels express their uniqueness through craftsmanship, not through factories that are far away from their customers. It’s time to reestablish contact to the customers. We can’t allow people to be neglected by the producers.

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ull speed ahead on the draisine! Just like we said, there’s only one way back, into the future.

Individuality must be written large enough for everyone to be able to read it and so that everyone can learn something from everyone else, which doesn’t mean equalising everyone’s individuality, it means trying everything out and finding the best solutions, creating something new. In short, new all around, but inspired by old role models. The oldest role models that we have, people who made things by hand, who infused things with a portion of their soul, who injected them with life. We’re fed up with dead, cold material. We want it to live, to radiate warmth! That's what we want — and to take the right path, we need to keep one eye on the past and one eye on the future. And it will work if we finally comprehend that not everything old is bad and not everything new is just exploitative, because these days of plenty are numbered and everyone’s going to have to pull together! That said, you can sit down and ponder about whether or not it would be simple or not, but you don’t really have to think about it for long, because there is only one simple solution: there is no other alternative! And whether things get tough or not, things have to change, and we’re doing our part. Many have already made the shift, recognised the trend and gotten on the road back to the future, a future in which it’s worth doing something, something that contributes to life, because people will value it. Let’s pour some oil into our little engines and fill up the water level so that we can make enough steam. Let’s set our clocks to the future, because with enough good from the past we should manage to move forward, all of us together, to where we all belong, at the forefront. Full speed ahead on the draisine! Just like we said, there’s only one way back, into the future.

trends bread & butter berlin BIG TIME

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A glance at a modern interpretation of the past — hand crafted is the new luxury: for a traditional bespoke suit, sewn-welted shoes as is for tough boots or made-byhand jeans. The inspiration is clearly British. The ladies’ and lords’ elegance meets the rawness of industrial workers — it’s just a matter of individual style and taste. Fine materials like corduroy, brocade and tweed velvet

for the bold & Brave brands

trends Colour chart

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are as welcome as rugged fabrics like Donegal and distressed denim. Checks come on all versions â&#x20AC;&#x201D; upperclass or proletarian style. Tomboy tapered pants, Jodhpur pants and breeches are as important as made to measure jackets and traditional coats. Details such as matted metal, worn-out finishes, leather patches and suspenders create the perfect individual look.

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bread & butter berlin

trends

Surprise your opposite — with black humour, surrealistic pictures and a glance at the dark side of life. Blade Runner meets Grimm’s fairy tales, the heroes of Marvel Comics run into the protagonists of Twilight.

for the bold & Brave brands

Domestic forests provide an endless source of inspiration — populated by spooky figures or apocalyptic sceneries. A gritty, minimalistic and futuristic look with distinct allusions to Robocalypse, Rock ‘n Roll and uniforms fits this image perfectly. Favoured colours are black, shades of grey and midnight-blue. These come in biker and army jackets, dark denim, leather outfits, tough tweed and minimalistic oversized androgynous coats. Boiled wool, neoprene, lacquered and waxed finishes, futuristic graphics are as important as metal and camouflage elements.

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Colour chart

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bread & butter berlin

trends

trends for the bold & Brave brands

jackets and waistcoats are must-haves just like track pants, denim joggers or casual pants with draw cord details. Slouchy, tapered and cuffed shapes are proof of active wear dominating denim styling too. Sport caps make it to everyday fashion. Hi-Tech, coated and lacquered fabrics as well as holograms, fluorescent prints, polka dots and 3-D visuals set humorous and surprising tones.

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Play with me â&#x20AC;&#x201D; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a colourful, bright and cheerful look which brings many active sports elements into everyday life. Modern computer game effects are mixed with surreal elements and determine the flashy and irritating prints. Silhouettes inspired by casual sports are easy and loose. Comfortable sweat-shirts and hoodies, crew neck shirts, varsity jackets, raglan jumpers, patchwork-vests, padded

Colour chart

brands

pijama

y t e f a s italian By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

112

eeping our stuff safe is a major issue as we all tend to get more and more technical along the way and we want to keep our babies safe from any harm that could come along. Pijama is perfect for what we want, as we do not want to be one of them, as we want to be us and that only means we want to stand out in the crowd, thanks Pijama for coming to our aid. Pijama was born in 2006 from an idea by Monica Battistella, fashion designer, and Sergio Gobbi, architect. Initially as a brand of scratchproof soft cases for computers and ipods, and later for ipads and iphones, the Pijama family is now growing with backpacks, tote bags, pockets with zips and slippers, enriched by new wool fabrics in the AW2013/14 collection. As it always is, great ideas come from different personas to create something greater as the sum of the two. Pijama is easy and simple, just what you need to

protect, carry and keep warm your precious everyday objects. The material used for all the products is a neoprene layer combined with a wide selection of fabrics taken from the world of textile, from dandy and tartan wool to classic denim. Pijama is 100% designed and made in Italy, manufactured by local sewers in the area surrounding Milano with heart and soul, from Italians by Italians. Pijama is always renewing its look by experimenting new prints, using new colours and inventing new accessories. A simple but ambitious project distributed worldwide, from Europe to Japan, from New Zealand to the US. The brand is clearly open to start new collaborations with other designers, music and fashion brands as it has already done in the past. Pijama is “colourful soft cases made in Milano”.

☛ Find us at Treasury — T 1.3

s g n i h t e c i n y r e v

brands

Nice Things

multi-brand stores. Today the company is already represented in 55 single-brand shops and 1,000 multi-brand points of sale in countries such as France, Italy, Germany, United Kingdom and Greece. While the company originally started with women’s clothing, the fashion brand keeps diversifying and branching out: In addition to its’ impressive accessories catalogue, there’s the “nice things mini” collection aimed at young ones between 0 and 12, including a line of stationery and school supplies; In 2012 “nice things” launched the “nice things mini” e-shop. And that years’ Spring/Summer collection saw the launch of “Paloma Wool’s catalogue”, overseen by Paloma Lanna, daughter of Paloma and Miguel, which is bringing a new, youthful twist to the company’s fashion portfolio. Conveying optimism and cheer, “nice things” tries to help customers with convinient fashion and feminine designs “to go on making it a nice day” every day.

☛ Find us at Urban fashion hall 2 — H4 22.2

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hether for work, a proper social event or a leisurely evening at home, “nice things” seem always like a good idea. Supplying women of all ages with fairly priced but high quality, comfortable clothing, apparel, jewelry, accessories and complements, the Barcelona-based company offers original fashion. Founded in 1995 by Paloma Santaolalla and Miquel Lanna as “Nice Day” and operating since 2008 under the name “nice things Paloma S”, the brand brings a dash of class and a laidback, Mediterranean vibe to the wardrobe with fascinating plays with fabrics and textures, with dots, patterns, prints and a fresh, positive color scheme. Uniquely designed but thoroughly wearable, the company’s style philosophy is simple and powerful and draws on over 25 years of experience in the design, manufacture and distribution of textiles. That helped turn the Barcelona family business into an ever-growing brand and a true success story. “nice things” markets its products through three distribution channels, in its own shops, franchises and

for the bold & Brave brands

By thomas klein

brands

FTC CASHMERE

l l a them f o the fairest By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

114

air, it seems to be a strange word, as we are not really used to it any more. Fair is a state of mind, one that is not always easily transcended into ones mind, since you are only one person and being fair means that you occupy your mind with the mind of others in a way. Being Fair is the opposite of what you normally do it is hanging together with your buddies and pushing together on one project towards the goal and because you push together you overcome yourselves and thus become a better person. Being fair should be the ultimate goal in life. FTC are the Initials for “Fair Trade Cashmere” and at first you might startle as the word Cashmere is included in this Fair Trade thing. But lets start at the begining when owners Jutta and Andreas Knezovic are trying to build up a company that is next to a high quality and great efficiency and classic economic growth, also the company will not ever lets their guard down when it comes to morals and human values. A very rare concept, but one that is all worth it.

Predominately it was the idea to create a Cashmere collection that did not only guarnteed best quality but also the manufacturing process would be ethically correct. Since the brands launch in twothousandandthree they are still looking that all the production is sustainable, ecological and economic all in order and that the growth is all in order but a conscious descision was made for the people and against exploiting people. Joint projects with farmes and employees are also the return to key values such as tradition, environmental awareness and ethics are basic requirements. This awareness, as in our company and also over at our partners, ensures that the exceptional valubale raw material consistently high quality and social standards can be met. FTC Cashmere is more than a product, it is guaranteed one thing that is more than only that, it is an morally correct statement in this decaying world. Take a stand !

☛ Find us at Urban superior Hall 1 — H5 21.1

Y R I A F E H T O T P U LEAVE IT

brands

la fee maraboutee

Underneath this strong core lies a definite bond with the cool and timely spirit, blending in with overall developments without losing its mission: to seduce and be seduced. La Fée Maraboutée has been casting its spell since 1996 and is going stronger than ever. Under the reigns of its founder and current head designer, Jean-Pierre Braillard, La Fée Maraboutée is distributed by approximately 1,700 French and international wholesale partners. Its French urban fashionista style with dressy as well as playful and basic items and designs allow for an endless set of style codes and outfits. Various accessories round off this very mature collection ready to cast a spell at first sight. In this day and age where style consciousness is certainly tied to budget consciousness, this brand does not disappoint. Leave it up to the fairy to transform the feminine will into the feminine way, in style and with seductive force.

☛ Find us at Urban superior Hall 1 — H5 15.2

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or the woman with beauty and brains, La Fée Maraboutée draws its inspiration from the eternal feminine spirit, the secret weapon of every woman that has the confidence to carry her powerful human silhouette and style forward with class. With the will to conquer and seduce, she isn’t enslaved to trends and fads; she goes her own way enlisting the help of the mystic fairy, La Fée Maraboutée, mirroring her beauty and elegant force as a perfect partner in crime. Every collection of La Fée Maraboutée works from this feminine core, playing with the female silhouette as well as with fine materials and prints. Retro-Urban-Elegance with a modern twist gives it that “something new, something old” look and feel, never losing its power. Making an instant connection with women of all ages that are able to give in to their own style calling, La Fée Maraboutée is playful and surprising in the way symbols of feminine virtues are (re)interpreted, adapted to and transformed — timeless eye candies that suck you in time and time again.

for the bold & Brave brands

By tj b r u d e r

brands

lia a r t s u A e r a W e y Quaye

h c n u b the wild By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

116

t is winter, hell, it is. But like Albert Camus said “In the midst of winter, I found there was, within me, an invincible summer.” But it is always darkest before the dawn as they say, and coldest before it gets to be spring, so we have the guys from Down Under here, with their enigmatic smiles and their wonderful way of life towards everything. As Australia is somewhat of a magical place that draws energy and the people are most creative. The crew of Quaye is somewhat, you know who they are, they’re that weird kid in high school who determines their own style and doesn’t care what anyone thinks. If you were that same kid in High School with checkerboard shoes and crazy shirts which got laughed at, you know what we mean. The thing what they do is they do not listen to others and what they think is cool is cool because they think it is, it is a thing of lead or get the fragg out of

my way. The Nerds, as they were called in school, the ones that had the crazy ideas that nobody seemed to appreciate, the ones that later on became famous while the others became what was the Entrepreneurs of our Generation. With their wit and their own taste they create what is one wonderful and breathtaking new company with a special take on sunglasses. These reflect the carefree attitude that seems to be a given in Australia as the Surfer mentallity seems to ooze into all aspects of life and reflects a laid back attitude. You need to see some of the Glasses to realizes what is happening if you are one of these. Quayeyeware ist he shortest way to get to Australia and it is an immediate drug that keeps you hooked until you get there. Surfs up.

☛ Find us at URBan fashion Hall 1 — H3 20.1

d n o m a i d a e k i l t b ri g h

brands

popup paris

Created by two childhood friends with atypical careers, Popup is an authentic and original concept Gauthier Malard, passionate about design and Victor Van De Rosieren, a young diamond broker, decided to start Popup in 2010 with one idea in mind: Transcending the everyday life with surprising designed products, and what could be more surprinsing than finding a real diamond in your well scented candle. In 2011, Samuel Guez, a young financier who was looking for an entrepreneurial adventure, joined them in their Task to bring Joy around the World. And Joy is always had as they have received many pictures of people with their diamonds and you better believe that it was had as you see smiling faces and wonderful gem in their hands.

☛ Find us at Treasury — T 3.3

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s we all are prone to being romantic from time to time, the most wunderful thing is not only to bring flowers back home to your girl, wife or friend but to bring him or her a token of your appreciation from time to time. May it be something that you just found, or something that reminds you of said person it will always be that the person will look back and think about you. It’s that easy. The thing to bring back is maybe more than you bargained for this time and the candle you are holding is more than just a candle perhaps as this Candle may contain a real diamond. Combining the french savoir-faire and the thrill of the lottery, Popup scented candles will excite, delight and maybe even surprise their owners, as you might get lucky. Inside every fiftieth candle, the lucky customer will find a diamond shining brightly at him through the melting wax!

for the bold & Brave brands

By henrik Kürschner

culture

wad magazine

APOCALYPSE WOW By Danielle de Bie

WA D — W e A r e D i ffe r e n t

2013

bread & butter berlin

marks an important year: WAD, the all-time favourite of the urban community turns fifteen. “We Are Different” — many times they’ve shown that they are indeed. Like here and now: on the special occasion they have published an amazing anniversary issue

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The “deux garçons” WAD founders Bruno (left) and Brice

showing their fundamental knowledge, their dedication, their talent as well as their creative minds. They couldn’t choose a better publication date for their 55th issue… a memorable date which will stay in our minds forever: December 21st, 2012; the pretended end of the world, the Apocalypse… they are boundless optimists.

But before talking about this anniversary issue giving lie to the Mayan prophecy, let me go back in time; back to 1998 when “deux garçons” decided to launch a new fashion magazine. They called it WAD and WAD was different; it was dedicated to the world of urbanwear, a universe which was completely unexplored 15 years ago. Since then they have always been a step ahead of the pack. fiftyfive WAD issues are proof of a never ending pioneering spirit and inventive genius. December 21st has passed, the world is still there and WAD is everywhere: Bruno’s and Brice’s brainchild became a worldwide success and a reference in the universe urbanwear which plays a major role in the fashion business of today. Despite their success they do not rest on their laurels and succeed in surprising us with every new issue. And this is the moment to talk about WAD Nº 55, the 15th anniversary issue. This WAD issue is the mirror of what urbanwear represents today: a mix across the segments, daring, boundless, fearless. Urbanwear, sportswear, denim, casual, young designers up to luxury brands sympathize, fabrics and shapes are merging, products become hybrids… borders become blurred or even disappear. It’s like a game, the game of mixing & matching.

culture

with the FAMILY ISSUE is the icing on the cake of this collector’s item, a milestone in the history of WAD and a must-have for everyone who’s into urbanwear for sure. The urban community would be a good deal poorer without the WAD family — we’d be missing these lovely “Frenchies” who have grown so close to our hearts over the years. Merci beaucoup Bruno, merci beacoup Brice et merci aux autres membres de la famille WAD — thank you for your friendship and for being DIFFERENT.

☛ WAD FAMILY, collector’s issue, available in 40 countries and on www.wadmag.com

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WAD Nº 55 is called the FAMILY ISSUE and plays this game to perfection. Built on the idea of a card game, 8 magazines become one: 7 magazines are dedicated to each of the various product categories. What you get is what you see — top, bottom, shoes, underwear, accessories, lifestyle and motion, seven chapters linking style and music, art and strong movements. But what would be a card game without the jolly joker?! This is when chapter eight comes into play: JOKER — the traditional meaning of the most coveted card guarantees a surprising conclusion; a chapter about new designers, brand sagas and sub-cultures bringing style movements into perspective. The do-it-yourself case that comes

for the bold & Brave brands

WAD issue Nº 1 (top left) and issue Nº 55 (top right & bottom)

brands

Underground

. . . r e v E . D A E D T O PUNKS N By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

120

hen most of us were kids we would watch in absolute awe who these people are and our parents would not let us talk to them since they were somewhat, errm lets say, different. The hair was most noticeable as it was about at least a meter high in fluroescent colors, the mohican was born and frowned upon, it was the late seventies. Punk was new and it came with speed not only in the Music, it was there overnight and the looks it came with where something that you had to get used to. The Jeans were slashed, the leather jackets were painted with huge anarchistic symbols and the usually reeked of the last night, well maybe week, there were buttons everywhere. The beforementioned hair was stanfing up tall in all directions and was not to be unseen, why? Because it was in all the colors the Industry had to offer. It was a long time this Punk period lasted and it influenced fashion like nothing else! As it oozed into all aspects of life and the clothes we are wearing it not even stopped in the main department of shoes.

Shoes were an integral part of the Punk Uniform, if you may call it that way. There were literally a ton of different shoes and such, but one, one was really different and was not be seen before, it was the creeper. Coming original with a thick sole looking very bouncy and very beginning eighties they are one of the essential punk shoes, maybe the one and only! As the shoe looked very rockabilly and casual wasn’t it for the sole that lifted the wearer up, it was worn through winter and to any sex pistols concert. Underground from England is here now with Ghosts of the past and they brought also some news as they upped the ante with a double thick sole and even a triple thick sole. They also breathe originality as everything they do is done since the eighties. It is like real Punks never die and The Great Rock’n’Roll Swindle as there will always be Anarchy in the UK.

☛ Find us at upper street — H2 16.1

k c a b ook l r e v e N

brands

Rascals’

herently likable fashion: Rascals’ sticks basics like caps, shirts, sweaters, hoodies and (training/ warm-up) pants but adds meaningful and noticeable twists. A slightly muted, earthy color scheme (with some very nice camo styles thrown in just for kicks) and products that look good both when working wheels or clubs, Rascals’ picks up not only on the streetwear classics of yesteryear but also on Copenhagen’s people and culture. That’s where the bike comes in, too. “I think you are pretty much born a bike enthusiast in Denmark as biking is deeply rooted in the way we think of transportation,” Martin Jørgensen said in a recent interview. “But I think the emergence of the fixed gear bike culture has added a new aspect to our biking culture. Biking seems to have become personalised in the bigger cities.” There’s a good reason why there’s a bike and a stylized gear in the logo: Like modernday cycling, Rascals’ is urban, individualistic, reliable and depends on what you do with it.

☛ Find us at upper street — H2 16.2

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y keeping it simple, Rascals’ is moving forward fast. You never just wear the clothes, you almost always wear the brand: Co-opting a company’s philosophy for a personal statement, you’re using and (re-)combining a brand’s message and style concept. Trying that won’t get you far with Danish streetwear outfit Rascals’, though. Skipping endless, more-often-than-not rather pretentious corporate chit-chat about what it all means, how it has to be seen as this and in the tradition of that, the company let’s its’ merchandise do the talking. The attitude is actually part of Rascals’ no-nonsense logo, where over a stylized bike it says “No History”. Launched in Copenhagen’s Nørrebro district by brothers Martin and Patrick Jørgensen in 2008 and starting with smallish collection of polyester track pants and hoodies, Rascals’ already managed to make itself quite a name, spreading internationally quickly. With fixed-gear bike enthusiasts and skaters in mind, a lucrative but very specific if not choosy customer base, Rascals’ designs mark a return to classic looks, materials and timeless, clean-cut silhouettes. It’s functional, effortless, in-

for the bold & Brave brands

By henrik Kürschner

Brands

camel active

the roof of the world

bread & butter berlin

By sebastian schmid

BIG TIME

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here can you find the best possible view? To get a truly global perspective the ultimate vantage point is always at the top. There is one country on the planet that is referred to as â&#x20AC;&#x153;the roof of the worldâ&#x20AC;?: Nepal. Located between India and China, it is home to eight of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest mountains, among them Mount Everest, which, at an altitude of 8,848 metres, is the highest point on earth. This unique Himalayan country, with its complex social structure and ethnic diversity, became the destination of a spectacular journey and provided an impressive backdrop for the latest CAMEL ACTIVE autumn/winter collection, GLOBAL VIEW.

Between civilisation and wilderness With this aim in mind, Ferdi, Texas and Vinnei took a breathtaking road trip that constantly alternated between cities and nature, culture and wilderness, the ancient and the modern world. In other words, they chose the perfect environment for a brand name that stands for constantly changing and expanding its horizons. The trip provided a perfect opportunity to demonstrate that this robust line of clothing can pass a test with flying colours under all sorts of different conditions. The result is less of a fashion show and more of a suspenseful travel reportage filled with breathtaking, wanderlust-invoking images and impressions from a journey to the roof of the world.

lection even includes heavy lace-up boots with weather-proof, waxed textile padding. The way these products interacted with the overwhelmingly wild and beautiful backdrop of Nepal makes the tension between urban life and wilderness come fully alive.

☛ Find us at Urban superior hall 2 — H6 7

Brands

Between urban life and wild nature Camel Active Products are every bit as diverse as the places on this incredible journey. The line includes coats, ranging from biker-style leather jackets made from oiled goatskin to wind- and weather resistant, quilted jackets with corduroy trimming plus work pants with leg pockets, warm cardigans, robust down vests and lumberjack shirts. The col-

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meters, and from there on to Jomssom Area. This is near the place where Sir Edmund Hillary and his companion Tenzing Norgay made history in 1953 when they were the first people to climb Mount Everest. It was here that Ferdi, Texas and Vinnie realised what Hillary was referring to in the first sentence of his book: “Tenzing called it the roaring of a thousand tigers. The storm rages relentlessly and without mercy”. From the heights of the Annapurna, the journey went on to Pokhara Lake where the climate was humid and subtropical. The group returned to civilisation via the ancient capital of Bhaktapur, also referred to as “city of divine devotion” — a place where people make specific requests to the gods. The Camel Active crew had only one request: to be able to return to Nepal as soon as possible.

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In the footsteps of Sir Edmund Hillary Namaste! “The divine in me bows to the divine in you”. This might be a rough translation of the traditional Nepalese greeting. And this may also be exactly what Ferdi, Texas and Vínni encountered when they first arrived there. The trip started in the capital of Katmandu. Surrounded by prayer flags, countless street vendors and holy men, known as Sadhus, who have renounced all worldliness in exchange for a life of asceticism and meditation, they visited the world famous Svayambhunath temple. Leaving the hustle and bustle of the city behind, they turned north towards Tibet. Along a canyon flanked by gigantic mountain ranges the route led them over the Kali Gandaki River towards the village of Kagbeni situated at an altitude of 2,804

brands

RedGreen

m a i , g n i i am sail By henrik KĂźrschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

124

hen Rod Stewart sang I am sailing, there was always this unwillingly beautiful picture of people on a yacht in the sun out on the ocean. But be not tricked, since the ocean is a vast and very versatile beast that can be more than just rough. Sailing is maybe the last resort where you can find true freedom out in the elements, when you and the ocean battle it out one on one, until you prove your manhood and overcome the ocean with your boat, because you are becoming one with your vessel as your boat becomes a bigger you. This is what it felt like when the REDGREEN people came together with their passion and their pure love for the element; water. To be out on your boat what you need is something that makes you feel good and foremost something that lasts. For nearly thirty years now they provide you with attention to

detail that seeks the competition out there and basi cally lasts forever. As the saying goes, battling the elements, may it be with warm knitwear and scarves or sailing for the yachting aficionado, REDGREEN has always been providing quality products inviting people to take part in their lifelong dream. They are the innovators of this unique concept, where maritime apparel, stylistically pure lines, high performance functionality and details are brought together in complete collections. What seems a lifetime ago became a wonderful mixture of this world that not anybody can have his part in and it merged with the land dwellers and soon it was the brand that is now synonymous with the maritime world, red and green like port and starboard.

â&#x2DC;&#x203A; Find us at URBan superior Hall 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201D; H6 28.2

Y P S ) LE B A ( ION H THE FAS

brands

n Massif Collectio

blends, moisture management, anti-microbial technology, ergonomic shaping, hidden pockets and cuts perfected for maximum freedom of movement ensuring Ninja level mobility. Deep inside we all know that durability is the new black and being able to rely on a garment’s functionality and quality is not only a vital asset for elite combat units. With military inspired style names such as “The Agent” and “The Deep Cover”, Massif items can be combined to fit virtually any type of situation. How about an “Officer Coat”, made of Herringbone Wool, combined with a pair of Stretch Cotton “On Duty Pants”? Massif Collection A/W2013 features innovative new fabric blends including performance cashmere, stretch technical wool, and technical dress softshell. Numerous explosive styling combinations are possible and waiting for the new fashion(able) spy. Get in on it while remembering, it’s all classified — Shhhh !

☛ Find us at URBan superior Hall 2 — H6 35.3

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ombat-tested high-tech label Massif recently turned high fashion. Founded in the midst of Y2K fears in the year 1999 in Ashland, Oregon (USA), Massif initially specialized in creating highly technical garments for military and search and rescue. It has been rising to the occasion every time for over a decade with functional and durable wear for the world’s finest: extreme solutions for extreme situations. With the newly launched Massif Collection, up until now classified technology is made available to the spy that lives inside every urban and non-urban warrior alike. Men were not men if their heart beats didn’t get an uptick on adventurous dreams, now brought to you courtesy of Massif Collection. Zooming in on the collection itself, tailored jackets of various materials as well as pants, knits, wovens and sweaters complete the line-up. Blacks and blues make sure that the testosterone spy stays below the radar. Only he knows about the secrets hidden deeply within his garments: proprietary fabric

for the bold & Brave brands

By tj b r u d e r

brands

Gestuz

m a l S m a Gl By thomas klein

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

126

estuz from Denmark brings a rock attitude to women’s fashion. Founded in 2007 by Sanne Sehested Nielsen and Lene Boesen and based not in Copenhagen but the Jutland small town of Ikast, company Gestuz (from the Danish word for “gesture”) is bridging the gap between retro/street cool and high runway fashion. It’s about attitude with Gestuz’ design approach being based firmly on “backstage rock’n’roll life”. Decidedly more in the vein of Bianca Jagger in the 1980s than Courtney Love in any decade, Gestuz’ designs translate into a style that’s at the same time gla-mourous, raw and sexy, but also elegant, playful and kinda sweet. With strong, cutting-edge prints and a keen eye for appropriate high-quality fabrics and offering a small selection of handcrafted, eye-catching pieces, Gestuz wants to help and encou-rage women to stand out by exploring and enhan-cing their respective individual style. Working with designs and styles fresh and original but based on time-tested retro classics, Gestuz’

products take their inspiration mainly from 80s runway, magazine and club chic. Asymmetrical cuts, mid-length skirts and wide collars keep a specific look vibrantly alive, aided by an understated, cool color scheme including black and silvery greys that has every other hue and creative patterns pop out and stand out even more effectively. By reinventing popular cuts and silhouettes, Gestuz is creating fresh, thoroughly modern sets of modern clothes and apparel. What’s also important to the company is it’s products usabilty and affordabilty: Gestuz may look perfect for a gallery opening or any other kind of social/cultural event but can and should be also part of everyday life. Next, for the 2013/14 autumn-winter collection Gestuz promises reptilian-inspired and Jacquard prints, dark forest greens and shades of red, glittering sequins, wool and reworked materials, mixes of textures and fabrics. Who would have thought that Jutland would seriously rock like that?

☛ Find us at Urban fashion Hall 1 — H3 26.1

brands

by s o r c i n o i z e f n o c

ON L A V NEW ARRI T REE T S CROSBY By tj B r u d e r

bread & butter berlin

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round the corner from NYC’s Little Italy lies Crosby Street, the home of the still fresh label Confezioni Crosby. Conceptualized and run by Italian native Benedetta Antonelli, it is a womenswear label with its style based on American work wear. Transforming the rough and rugged style of traditional work wear into a more feminine yet casual collection has been successfully executed through the collaboration of Antonelli and a historic New York based manufacturer of mens uniforms and traditional work garments. Antonelli’s formal training in Italy’s Padua certainly paid off in this dynamic transformative process, changing proportions and fits, adding touches of softness and femininity. The base requirements for work wear are exceptional functionality, safety and comfort. With these underlying traits in place, Confezioni Crosby added more than a single breeze of color and fine tailoring to make this reformed workwear style work those feminine curves with Italian elegance and NYC confidence. According to the designer herself, it

took about a year to arrive at the right transformation formula. Feminine fabrics like plaid wool and printed silks were vital elements in pushing through to the final collection. Some key items of Confezioni Crosby include a classic electrician jacket in cherrycolored corduroy, thrown over pretty floral-printed silk pajama suits, and cool voluminous rain slickers that dress up old-faithful favorites like jeans and sweatshirts. 29 years young, Antonelli has booked some instant successes with power houses like Opening Ceremony, Browns in London and Bird in Brooklyn. This is just the beginning and Confezioni Crosby’s juxtaposition of style is bound to draw a crowd amongst women who look for comfort in an urban & playful coolness that is both feminine and bold in expression. So don’t be afraid to double-dip into this crossatlantic style mix, because going in between Italy and New York City has never been easier.

☛ Find us at Urban fashion hall 1 — H3 18.2

HALL: URBAN BASE, BOOTH NO.: A62

brands

Juju Shoes

t e e f n o s a e s l a festiv By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

130

blast from the past again, well not too far tho’ but here they are, rubber sandals as you remember them as you bought a pair of them on your early first visit to the beach, and don’t lie now because you know you did and you liked them! JuJu is the ORIGINAL British Born Jelly Shoe company, established in Northampton, the shoe capital of Britain, in 1986. JuJu pioneered the production of injection moulded sandals, which are still made using the traditional manufacturing methods and using the original jelly moulds, all in the same factory and to the highest standards and quality. Last summer they collaborated with designers including iconic British fashion designer Margaret Howell, produced exclusive Jelly shoes for Azealia Banks and featured on runways and lookbooks for talented young London based fashion designers in-

cluding Manuela Dack and Fanny & Jessy. This season will see the do launch of a UV-reactive collection with six eyepopping colours across their original heeled Babe and flat Maxi styles. These jellies charge up in UV Light, giving a unique glow. And from the archives, they are set to re-release the hugely popular Vicky shoe, a cage-style flat that will be produced in a range of new pastel and metallic shades. All for this coming summer, just when you need it the most. JuJu will also reintroduce their classic wellington boots in a selection of pretty pastels and super bright neons, in their original Gumboot mould. The JuJu Vintage Gumboots are made from their uniquely soft, flexible jelly mix and are the ideal boot for Festival season.

☛ Find us at urban fashion hall 2 — H4 15.2

be the place to for fashion.

Berlin. Stylish. Progressive. En vogue.

Fashion Made in Berlin.

January 15–20, 2013 www.fashion-week-berlin.de

International, unconventional, distinctive – creative professionals all over the world have their eye on Berlin. Today, hardly any other city sets as many trends as the German capital while simultaneously being an affordable and great place to live. Fashionistas, designers and photographers continue to be inspired by Berlin’s unfinished charm: at the BREAD & BUTTER and PREMIUM fairs, at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and in many stores and clubs. This is great news for the roughly 800 labels active in the Berlin-Brandenburg capital region. Their clientele has tremendous purchasing power, a new generation of well-educated designers is emerging, and funding is made to measure. How does Berlin suit you? www.berlin-partner.de | www.businesslocationcenter.de/Fashion

brands

Cuckoos Nest

o c s i d e in th By henrik Kürschner

bread & butter berlin

BIG TIME

132

he beat hammers and the air is very sticky in the club, its way after midnight and the sun threatens to come back up soon. You are in the club dancing to the latest tunes with the latest people and as you are one of the guys who is losing his mind to the beat that has just stopped and only the keyboard hits it. Your shirt is displaying a girl in a tiger body who is on a mens toilet, the one where you need to stand. Its like the club and you display it, you breathe it, you sweat it and you live it. For some it may just be a shirt, but for you it is the very essence of what is happening right here, right now. When you are up to date and you are one of the guys who goes out much and loves everything about the nightlife, then you need one of these shirts. As they are loud and bright but most of them always have another level of meaning to them maybe not a politcal good one or something that you need but it something you would have to think

about for a minute. The shirts are all very NOW and very hip just now and once you missed just that one you would have to wait for the next season of good idea shirts. Caps are available as well and here goes the same thing the cap is the very essence of NOW and you would want to have it on your head to prove that you are one of the crowd. The graphics are loud and sometimes very disturbing but they will always put a smile on your face, because you know a situation like this or have heard about one that was similar. They are one fine brand out there, who are fast and have ideas that are special and are standing tall in the ocean of shirts these days. Its a thin line between good taste and bad taste, glad that they always keep on the right side.

☛ Find us at Upper street — H2 15.1

Buffalo

s r e k a e n s d e l e e h igh h By sebastian schmid

hen Michael Conradi, a business man from the German state of Hessen, founded Buffalo Boots in 1979, he initially intended to establish a company to import and sell cowboy boots, at the time a favourite with the younger clientele. By the early Eighties the company had begun designing their own brand of sports shoes in over 20 colours which were a huge hit. Little by little, the range of products grew beyond cowboy boots to include other types of shoes. In 1984 the firm branched out beyond the German market to distributing Buffalo products in many countries from Norway to Greece, from Austria to Ukraine. One of Buffalo’s best known products are the sports shoes with a plateau-style midsole, a complete novelty during the mid-Nineties and still available today as part of the brand’s classic collection.

Over the last 30 years Buffalo has presented on average two collections per year, be it their elegant Buffalo London brand or their Buffalo Girl collection, aimed at a younger target group. Their range of products spans from elegant pumps to glamorous party shoes to lined winter boots. For men, there is something in the collection for every possible occasion and purpose, from dress shoes to sneakers to sturdy boots. A special feature for the ladies lets them find the right shoes not only by model but also according to special occasion or themes like Call of Nature, Rock Chic, or Go West. This last brand name of course ties in with the company’s original mission: cowboy boots.

☛ Find us at Urban fashion hall 2 — H4 18.1

BIG TIME

134

bread & butter berlin

rubrik

bold & brave friends T

he “tradeshow for selected brands” attaches particular importance to service. A large team of dedicated hostesses and hosts strives to make the stay of BREAD & BUTTER’s guests as enjoyable as possible.

for the bold & Brave brands

Every season the friendly B&B staff is dressed by several selected brands. We’d like to thank Converse, Dickies, Hüftgold, Stetson and Manhattan Portage for supporting the B&B BIG TIME edition.

BIG TIME

135

JOIN US! Become part of the EVISU family and apply yourself for

Marketing Manager for UK Please contact hr@evisu.com

Sales Agents for Germany, the Netherlands Please contact con sales@evisu.com

evisu.com

Visit us at BBB, L.O.C.K.,BOOTH H7.38

BERLIN

WELCOME TO A SUCCESSFUL TEAM! Wir suchen zur Verstärkung unseres Teams:

SENIOR BUSINESS DEVELOPER (M/W) | POS MANAGER IM TEXTILEINZELHANDEL (M/W) TECHNICAL PRODUCT DEVELOPER CLOTHING MEN (M/W) | PRODUCT COMMUNICATION MANAGER E-COMMERCE (M/W) | WEB DESIGNER (M/W) Mehr Informationen und weitere spannende Jobs ﬁnden Sie auf unserer Homepage. HOLY FASHION GROUP career@holyfashiongroup.com | www.holyfashiongroup.com facebook.com/HOLYFASHIONGROUP

M1203013_HOLY_HFGxxx_TradeShowGuide_BBB_SS13_180x130.indd 1

19.12.12 15:52

a few against many

khujo™ is a successful, growing, international street fashion brand. Our customers are retailers, online-shops and department stores. The brand is known for the three elements design (that we call 3E´s) based on fabrics, significant accessories and urban fashion. The result of the design in combination with the enthusiasm and work of the people behind is the trend inspired handwriting for an unusual collection. With this characteristics and the strong development of the brand we have to recruit with mayor base in Hamburg/Germany for amplification of our team:

The Fashion Designer Assistant is a part of the khujo™ design team, which is responsible for the development of the khujo™ men’s & women’s collection. We’re looking for a person who got the ability for commercial trend view, a heart for details and with a good eye for correct fit and workmanship.Enthusiasm and willingness to perform are quality characteristics. We like to welcome you soon in our khujo™ design team in Hamburg.

QUALIFICATIONS • • • • • • •

degree in Fashion Design or similar academic grade experience in fitting experience with suppliers in Far East very good skills in Illustrator, Excel and Outlook high flexibility and the ability to work under pressure very good command of English willingness to travel

PRACTICAL TRAINING for 6 months also available Mail: application@khujo.com | Post: khujo™ Co. Ltd │ Susanne Deiss | Osterfeldstr. 32-34 │22529 Hamburg (GERMANY)

Marc O’Polo, founded in Stockholm in 1967, stands for an urban, casual lifestyle with discerning standards. Today our company has its headquarters in Stephanskirchen near Munich and employs around 1,700 staff worldwide. We look forward to people who enjoy supporting us in our national and international expansion.

visit us: booth# H3.5.6 for appointments contact cleod@killigrewfashion.com www.killigrewfashion.com

CREATE YOUR FUTURE

your new employees are here! Let them know!

www.breadandbutter.com

Different Positions in Buying Retail (M/F) Sales Manager Shoes (M/F) Area Manager Women & Men (M/F) Manager Sales Online (M/F) Trend Manager (M/F) Visual Merchandiser Franchise (M/F) Visual Merchandiser Shop in Store (M/F) Different Positions in Buying & Production (M/F) For more information as well as other current vacancies please visit our website: www.marc-o-polo.com

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Attention fashion fans! Discover Europe’s shopping and fashion cities with non-stop connections between Berlin and 49 other destinations – from just €49! How about London, Milan, Paris or Stockholm? Book now at lufthansa.com or win with a bit of luck:

Freuen Sie sich auf einen Europa-Flug* für zwei. Registrieren Sie sich auf lufthansa.com/fashion. Wir wünschen viel Glück! Für Direktflüge Oneway ab bzw. nach Berlin inkl. Steuern und Gebühren bei Buchung unter lufthansa.com. Begrenztes Sitzplatzangebot. * Unter Vorbehalt der Verfügbarkeit.

Look forward to a European flight* for two. Register at lufthansa.com/fashion. We wish you the best of luck!

For direct flights one-way to or from Berlin, including taxes and charges, booked online at lufthansa.com. Limited availability. * Subject to availability.

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