FLAVOURS OF 2011 For THE CATERER BY Madalene Bonvini-Hamel www.britishlarder.co.uk
Flavours of‌
JANUARY 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Venison Carpaccio Serves 10 For the Venison Carpaccio ½1kg Venison Loin (Preferably fallow deer) Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1tbs sunflower oil 1tbs unsalted butter Remove the silver skin from the venison loin and trim it into an even shaped barrel. Season the venison all over. Heat a non-stick frying pan with the oil, and seal the venison loin with the butter evenly all over. Remove the venison from the pan and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Wrap the venison in cling film in the shape of a barrel. Refrigerate until cold and transfer the venison to the freezer for at least 4 hours to set. Use a slicing marching and slice the venison into 2-3mm thick slices. Place three slices on a chilled plate, keep refrigerated until needed. For the Venison Lollipops 1kg venison boneless venison shoulder 1 sprig of thyme 1 clove of garlic, crushed 200g Cumberland sausage meat 5 tbs chopped mixed soft herbs, parsley, chervil and chives 4 banana shallots, finely diced 3tbs olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper Seasoned flour Japanese Panko breadcrumbs 1 free-range egg, lightly beaten Preheat the water bath to 83°C. Season the venison shoulder and place it in a vacuum pouch with the garlic and thyme and 2tbs olive oil, seal on hard vacuum and cook in the preheated water bath for 24 hours. Once cooked flake the venison meat and cool. Cook the chopped banana shallots in the remaining oil, season to taste and cook until tender, transparent and sweet, and leave to cool. Mix the cooled cooked venison meat with the sausage meat, herbs and cooked shallots, season to taste. Shape the venison into15g sausages and panne using the seasoned flour, beaten egg and panko breadcrumbs.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Deep-fry the venison lollipops and drain on kitchen paper and season. Insert a skewer and serve immediately. Serve two per portion. For the Shallot and Hazelnut Vinaigrette 3 banana shallots, finely diced 20g fresh ginger, finely minced 1 clove of garlic, finely minced 1tbs Dijon mustard 50ml light soy sauce 100ml sherry vinegar 1tsp honey 200ml sunflower oil 100ml hazelnut oil Juice and zest of one lemon Salt and freshly cracked black pepper Place all the ingredients in a jar with a tight sealing lid and shake vigorously. Leave to infuse for 30 minutes before using. Keep refrigerated until needed. To Serve Remove the Carpaccio from the fridge for at least 10 minutes before serving to allow it to reach room temperature. Spoon the vinaigrette around the sliced Carpaccio; season the Carpaccio with Maldon sea salt flakes and freshly cracked black pepper. Garnish with toasted hazelnuts and dressed cress salad, place the venison lollipops on top and serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Roasted Woodcock, Truffled Jerusalem Artichokes and Boulanger Potatoes Serves 2 For the Roasted Woodcock 2 whole woodcocks 4 slices of streaky bacon 1tbs unsalted butter Salt and freshly cracked black pepper Preheat the oven to 180°C. Remove the head and truss the birds with the slices of bacon. Roast the birds in the preheated oven for 14 minutes, rest for 10 minutes. Remove the legs and breast; return the legs to the oven to continue roasting for a further 10 minutes. Remove the guts which should have turned into a soft pate, and stir into a boiling hot game sauce. Remove the breast from the crown and crisp the skin in a hot pan with foaming butter. Serve immediately. For the Truffled Jerusalem Artichokes 500g Jerusalem Artichokes 100g unsalted butter Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 200ml white wine 2 tsp truffle oil Peel and slice the Jerusalem Artichokes into ½ cm thick rounds. Heat a non-stick frying pan with half of the butter, once it starts to foam add the sliced artichokes, then season and sauté until they start to colour. Once they are golden brown deglaze the pan with the wine and cover with a lid to cook until tender. Once cooked add the truffle oil and set aside until needed. For the Boulanger Potatoes 10 large Desiree potatoes, peeled 7 banana shallots, sliced 50g unsalted butter + extra for greasing Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1.2 L white chicken stock Sprigs of fresh thyme, leaves only
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Preheat the oven to 140째C and grease a 25 x 15 x 5cm baking tray with butter. Sweat the shallots in the butter, season with salt and pepper and cook until transparent and tender, stir in the thyme leaves. Bring the stock to the boil and remove from the heat. Using a mandoline to slice the potatoes, dip them in the hot stock, drain and layer them in the greased tray, alternate with a layer of the cooked shallots, stock and sliced potatoes, season as you go along, continue until the tray is full. Cook the potatoes in the preheated oven for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Leave to cool, press over night. Cut the potatoes out and place in the serving containers. Reheat the potatoes in the oven. To Serve Serve the roasted woodcock on a plate with Jerusalem Artichoke puree, purple sprouting broccoli, the truffled artichokes and the Boulanger potatoes. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve and serve separately in a sauce jug.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Rose Scented Panacotta with Pomegranate Jewels
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Rose Scented Panacotta with Pomegranate Jewels Serves 8 For the Rose Scented Panacotta 300ml double cream 300ml natural full fat yoghurt 75ml milk 40g caster sugar 2 leaves of gelatine, soaked in cold water Rose water Bring the cream, milk and sugar to the boil, simmer for one minute. Remove the cream from the heat, drain the soaked gealtine, and squeeze to remove the excess water and stir into the hot cream. Add the yoghurt and rose water to taste. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve and pour it into dariole moulds, refrigerate to set. For the Pomegranate Jelly Jewels 250ml fresh pomegranate juice 1.5g agar agar Dissolve the agar agar in the cold pomegranate juice, bring the juice to the boil and simmer for one minute. Pour the juice into a clean plastic tray and leave to set at room temperature. Do not move the jelly until it’s completely set as the movement will disturb the agar and prevent the jelly from setting. Once set cut the jelly into small cubes. To Serve Dip the panacotta mould into hot water, shake and release the panacotta from the mould. Place the panacotta in position, garnish the plate with pomegranate syrup and scatter the pomegranate jelly, garnish the plate with chopped pistachios and fresh pomegranate seeds.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Flavours of‌
FEBRUARY 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Duck Pastrami, Chicory and Blood Orange
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Duck Pastrami, Chicory and Blood Orange Serves 6 For the Duck Pastrami 2 large male duck breasts 1tbs coriander seeds ½ tsp black peppercorns 6 juniper berries 25g Maldon sea salt 50 dark brown sugar 1 clove of garlic 1tbs chopped fresh thyme Score the duck skin, remove the sliver skin, set aside. Use a pestle and mortar to crush the rest of the ingredients into a paste. Rub it into the duck meat; massage it into the fat side. Vacuum pack the duck breast tightly and leave to marinade overnight. Remove the duck from the vacuum pouch, wash and dry the duck. Lightly smoke the breast, fat side down. Cool. For the Blood Orange and Balsamic Jelly 280ml blood orange juice 20ml balsamic vinegar 1.5g agar agar powder Bring the blood orange juice and vinegar to the boil, reduce to 250ml. Stir in the agar powder, mix well, bring the fluid back to the simmer for 2 minutes. Pour the liquid into a small tray and leave to set completely at room temperature. For the Medjool Date Puree 200g Medjool dates, stones removed 1tb olive oil Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1tsp sherry vinegar Blend all the ingredients to a paste, taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Keep refrigerated until needed. For the Jerusalem Artichoke Puree 300g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and sliced 20g unsalted butter Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 50ml double cream Peel and finely slice the artichokes, place it in a vacuum bag, add the butter and seasoning. Seal on hard vacuum. Bring the water to boil in a large saucepan and place the vacuum bag in the water, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and leave to simmer for 40 minutes. Puree the Jerusalem artichokes in a blender until very smooth, add the cream, and if it’s still too thick then add more cream. Taste and adjust the seasoning if need. To Serve Finely slice the duck. Cut the jelly into serving size pieces. Spread the date puree on the plate, place small drops of Jerusalem artichoke puree on the plate, and arrange the duck slices with chicory pieces, fresh blood orange segments and coriander cress.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Turbot, Radicchio & Kale Serves 2 For the Pan-Fried Turbot 2 x 200g pieces of turbot fillets, squared Olive oil Maldon Sea Salt Heat a non-stick frying pan; season the turbot on both sides with salt only. Pan-fry the fish in the hot pan with the olive oil until golden, about 2-3 minutes on both sides, but this depends on the thickness of the fish. Serve immediately once cooked. For the Red Wine Turbot Sauce 250ml white chicken stock 250ml fish stock 1 bottle of red wine 6 banana shallots, finely sliced 1tbs sunflower oil 1 bay leaf 1 tsp coriander seeds Heat a heavy based saucepan with the oil, sautĂŠ the shallots, bay leaf and coriander seeds until golden. Deglaze the pan with the wine and simmer until sticky and nearly reduced by three quarters. Add the stocks, bring the liquid back to the simmer and gently continue to simmer for 20 minutes. Pass the sauce and reduce until the correct consistency. For the Braised Radicchio 1 whole round radicchio 80g unsalted butter 250ml white chicken stock 50ml vermouth Salt and freshly cracked black pepper Cut the radicchio into even sized quarters. Heat a non-stick frying pan with the butter and sautĂŠ the radicchio on all sides until it starts to colour, deglaze the pan with the vermouth and cook until sticky. Add the stock, place a lid on top and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook until tender. To Serve Arrange the braised radicchio on warm serving places, serve with blanched curly kale. Place the golden pan-fried turbot on top, spoon the sauce over and serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Turnip, Cider and Fresh Horseradish Gratin Makes 8 small dishes serving 2 people as a side 2kg turnips, peeled 5 banana Shallots, finely sliced 1tbs unsalted butter Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 100g smoked bacon 300ml cider 400ml white chicken or vegetable stock 200ml double cream 50g freshly grated horseradish 50g wholegrain mustard 50g grated parmesan cheese Peel the turnips and slice them 3/4mm thick. Slice the bacon into thin slices, and sauté until crispy, remove from the pan and set aside. Return the same pan to the heat, melt the butter and sauté the finely sliced shallots with seasoning until golden. Deglaze the pan with the cider, add the horseradish and mustard; cook until the cider thickens. Add the stock and cook until the stock is reduced by half. Add the cream, bring the sauce back to the boil, taste and stir in the grated parmesan cheese and half the crispy bacon. Remove from the heat. Mix the sliced turnips with the mixture and layer the turnips in a baking dish, pour over the creamy mixture. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for 25 – 30 minutes, garnish with the crispy bacon, finely shredded fresh parsley and golden toasted sour dough breadcrumbs, before serving finely grated fresh raw horseradish over the hot gratin to serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Flavours of‌
MARCH 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Morston Mussels with Leeks, Smoky Bacon and Aspall Cyder
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Morston Mussels with Leeks, Smoky Bacon and Aspall Cyder Serves 1 500g Morston Mussels, cleaned 25ml olive oil 1/2 leek, washed and sliced 1 clove of garlic, crushed 1 small banana shallot finely diced 1 bay leaf 80g smoked bacon, cut into small pieces 200ml Aspall Cyder 80ml double cream Fresh horseradish Handful of chopped parsley and chives Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Thoroughly wash the mussels, remove the beards and discarding any that are heavy, broken or that remain open when tapped. Heat the oil in a large, pan and fry the onion, bacon, leek with the bay leaf and garlic. Add the cider to the pan and bring it to a gentle boil. Add the mussels, cover the pan tightly with a lid and steam for 2 minutes, or until the mussel shells start to open. Add the cream, bring to the boil and remove from the heat. (Discard any mussels whose shells remain closed). When ready toss in the chopped herbs; serve in a bowl and grate over fresh horseradish to taste, serve with plenty of fresh bread.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Pan-Roasted East Coast Skate, Anchovy and Broccoli Pickle
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Pan-Roasted East Coast Skate, Anchovy and Broccoli Pickle Serves 2 For the Skate 2 skate wings, even size 1tbs unsalted butter Maldon Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Season the skate wings on both sides. Heat a non-stick frying pan, once warm but not smoking hot add the butter, when the butter starts to foam add the fish presentation side down first, pan-fry for 3 -4 minutes, turn the fish over and continue cooking for a further 3 – 4 minutes on the reverse side. Once cooked let the skate rest for 2 minutes, transfer to a serving plate and serve with the anchovy and broccoli pickle. For the Anchovy and Broccoli Pickle 8 pieces of silver skin anchovies, chopped 1 clove of garlic, crushed 2tbs capers, drained and chopped 80g green olives, diced 100g broccoli blanched very quickly and refreshed in ice water 100g kale blanched and quickly refreshed in ice water 2tbs chopped mixed tarragon, chives and parsley ½ green chilli, seeds removed and finely sliced 80ml extra virgin olive oil 25ml sherry vinegar Juice and zest of one lime Maldon Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Roughly shred the blanched broccoli and kale. Mix with the rest of the ingredients and season to taste, leave to marinade for 20 minutes. Serve the pickle with the pan-roasted skate wing.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Rhubarb, Pecan and Buttermilk Pudding, Buttermilk Ice Cream Serves 12 For the Rhubarb and Buttermilk Pudding 225g unsalted butter, room temperature 300g light brown sugar Seeds of one vanilla pod 3 egg yolks 3 whole eggs 270ml buttermilk 300g self-raising flour 1tsp bicarb of soda Pinch of salt 1tsp ground ginger 150g pecan nuts, roughly chopped 400g fresh rhubarb Pre-heat the oven to 160°C and grease 12 x 8cm in diameter rubber muffin moulds. Cream the butter, vanilla and sugar until pale and fluffy, add the eggs one at a time and mix well after each addition. Stir in the buttermilk. Sift the flour, bicarb of soda, ground ginger, salt and baking powder over the creamed butter mix, and fold in using a large metal spoon. Wash and cut the rhubarb into slices mix with the pecan nuts. Spoon a bit of the batter into the moulds followed by a few bits of the rhubarb pecans and fill the mould with more batter, divide the remaining rhubarb pecans between the moulds and place them on top. Bake the Puddings for 25 – 30 minutes in the preheated oven. Let them cool before removing from the moulds. Serve slightly warm with the buttermilk ice cream. For the Buttermilk Ice Cream 700ml buttermilk 120g caster sugar 200ml whipping cream 25ml fresh lemon juice Mix all the ingredients, refrigerate and rest for 1 hour. Churn the ice cream, keep frozen until needed.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Flavours of‌
APRIL 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Wild Garlic and Jersey Royal Potato Soup Serves 8/10 1kg Jersey Royal Potatoes 25g unsalted butter 3 banana shallots, finely sliced 1leek, washed and finely sliced 100ml dry white wine or sherry 2L vegetable or fresh white chicken stock Maldon Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 100ml double cream 150g wild garlic, washed
Scrub the potatoes, use a mandolin and finely slice them; dunk in cold water. In a large heavy based saucepan melt the butter over medium heat and add the drained potatoes, season with salt and pepper, add the shallots and leeks. Sweat the mixture until the potatoes start to break down; stir regularly. Add the wine and cook until absorbed. Add the stock, bring the soup to the boil and cook the potatoes until soft, taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Add the cream and bring the soup back to the boil. Prepare a large container with iced water and place a container for the soup over the ice. Blend the soup bits at a time adding the washed garlic to the blending soup. Pass the soup through a fine sieve directly into the container over the ice. Adjust the seasoning if needed, chill. Prepare the garnish, deep fry a few of the garlic leaves and also fry a few of the finely sliced Jersey Royal potato crisps. To serve, reheat the soup and garnish with the fried garlic leaves and potato crisps.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Jersey Royal Potato, Cockle, Sorrel and Smoked Eel Salad
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Jersey Royal Potato, Cockle, Sorrel and Smoked Eel Salad Serves 4 1 bunch of sorrel, washed 500g Jersey royal potatoes 120g hot smoked eel, flaked 1 Lime, cut in ¼’s 4 Soft boiled hens eggs (optional) 200g Purple sprouting broccoli 10 silver skin anchovies in oil 200g Cockles, meat only 2tbs rapeseed oil 1tsp chopped tarragon 1tsp malt vinegar Blanch the broccoli in salted boiling water, refresh in ice water, drain once cold. Wash the Jersey Royals and boil in salted water until tender. Cut the potatoes in half. Once ready to serve sauté the potatoes in the remaining rapeseed oil until golden, season to taste, serve warm. Whilst sautéing the potatoes pan-fry the cut limes until golden on each side in the same pan than the potatoes, it will give the potatoes a delicious tangy seasoned flavour. Marinade the cooked cockles: mix the cooked cockles with one tablespoon of the rapeseed oil, chopped tarragon and the malt vinegar, season lightly and set aside for 10 minutes to marinade. Sorrel Pesto 1 bunch of sorrel 30g pine nuts, toasted 20g golden linseeds 30g Parmesan cheese, grated 30ml rapeseed oil 1 clove of garlic, crushed 4 sprigs of mint ¼ small bunch of parsley Salt and freshly cracked black pepper Toast the linseeds and pine nuts, set aside to cool completely. Place the ingredients in a blender and blend till smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed and let the flavours develop for about 20 minutes. To Serve: Sauté the potatoes once you are ready to serve. Arrange the ingredients on the plate, drizzle over the pesto. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Crab and Sea Beet Filo Crisp Tart
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Crab and Sea Beet Filo Crisp Tart Serves 4/6 For the Crab Salad 400g freshly cooked and picked white crab meat 1tbs mascarpone Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1tbs finely chopped chervil 1 lime, juice and zest Mix the crab meat with the mascarpone, freshly chopped herbs and season to taste with the lime juice, zest and salt and pepper. Chill for 10 minutes before serving. For the Filo Crisp Wafers 4 sheets of filo pastry 200g clarified butter Freshly ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 180 °C, convection oven (turn the fan off). Melt the clarified butter and brush each sheet of filo with butter, season with the pepper, place another sheet on top and continue the process until all four sheets are on top of each other, use a sharp knife to cut the filo in 5 cm x 15 cm rectangles. Make four long sausages with foil and place it on a baking tray with 10 cm gaps in between, drape the buttered filo over the foil to create waves. Bake the filo in the preheated oven for 5 minutes, check if it's golden and crisp, and continue to bake for a further 5 minutes until the filo is crisp and golden. Let the filo waves cool completely, keep them in an airtight container until needed. For the Avocado Puree 1 large ripe avocado 1tbs mascarpone cheese Juice of one large lime Salt and freshly cracked black pepper Few drops of Tabasco sauce Peel the avocado, place the avocado pulp, mascarpone, Tabasco and lime juice in a blender, season and blend until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Keep refrigerated until needed. For the Sea Beet Puree and Jelly 200g sea beet 1 large bunch of watercress 1.5g agar agar powder Bring a large saucepan with seasoned water to the boil. Blanch the watercress and sea beet and refresh in ice water. Blend both until a smooth puree adding a tablespoon of ice water to let the puree down if it’s too thick. Pass the puree through a fine sieve. Measure 150ml of water in a small saucepan, add 1.5g agar agar and add 100g of the fine puree, bring to the boil, mix well, simmer for 1 minute. Pour the liquid into a small tray and leave to set completely at room temperature. Keep the remaining puree chilled to prevent discoloration. For the Pickled Cucumber 1 cucumber Maldon Sea salt Pinch of sugar 1tsp of cider vinegar Dice the cucumber, remove the seeds. Place the diced cucumber in a vacuum bag, season and add the sugar and vinegar. Seal on hard vacuum and leave for 30 minutes. To Assemble Chill the serving plates. Drain the cucumber. Spread the sea beet puree on the plate, transfer the avocado puree to a squeezy bottle and dot the avocado over the plate, dice the jelly and scatter. Arrange Julienne fresh sea beet on the plate with watercress leaves. Place the crisp filo sheets on top and place two quenelles of crab salad onto of the filo sheets. Garnish the dish further with the jelly, cucumber, sea beet and watercress leaves. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Flavours of‌
MAY 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Woodpigeon, English Asparagus, Broad Bean Hummus, Wild Mint Crème
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Woodpigeon, English Asparagus, Broad Bean Hummus, Wild Mint Crème Serves 4 Pigeon and Asparagus 4 wood pigeon crowns 1tbs unsalted butter Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1 clove of garlic 1 sprig of thyme 1tbs of mixed coriander seeds, white and black peppercorns ½ onion 1 stick of celery 1 bay leaf 1 bunch of English asparagus, prepared 2 heads of baby gem lettuce, washed and cut in ¼’s Fill a large saucepan with cold water; add the celery, bay leaf, mixed seeds, thyme and garlic. Bring the water to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Season the pigeon crowns. Reduce the heat of the boiling water and poach the pigeon crowns in the simmering water for 2 minutes, remove from the water and drain on paper towel. Blanch the asparagus and set aside till needed. Chargrill the baby gem ¼’s and set aside until needed. Heat a frying pan with butter and brown the pigeon crowns on all sides. Let the pigeons rest for 2 minutes, remove the breast meat from the bone and serve immediately. Broad Bean Hummus 200g broad beans, popped 100g cooked chickpeas 1tbs tahini 1 clove of garlic, crushed Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Juice and zest of one lemon 1tsp sumac 50ml rapeseed oil Place all the ingredients in a food processor, season to taste and blend till required consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Keep chilled until needed. Wild Mint Crème 2 banana shallot, finely sliced 25g freshly picked wild mint 25g unsalted butter Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 80ml Vermouth 2000ml white chicken stock 100ml double cream Heat a saucepan with the butter and sweat the shallots until soft and transparent in colour, add the mint and the vermouth and simmer until the vermouth becomes sticky and nearly all absorbed by the shallots. Add the chicken stock, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and reduce by half. Add the cream, bring the sauce back to the boil and pass the sauce through a fine sieve. Cool until needed. To Serve: Spoon the broad bean hummus on a serving plate, arrange the grilled baby gem quarters with the asparagus on the plate, add the warm pigeon breast. Heat the mint cream and spoon over when serving.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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New Season Lamb Rump, Lamb Shoulder Croquette; Soused English Asparagus, Radishes & Kolhrabi
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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New Season Lamb Rump, Lamb Shoulder Croquette; Soused English Asparagus, Radishes & Kolhrabi Serves 4 For the Lamb Rump 2 whole lamb rumps 1tbs unsalted butter 1 clove of garlic 1tbs olive oil 1 sprig of thyme Maldon sea salt Freshly cracked black epper Pre-heat the water bath to 64°C. Season the lamb and place it in a vacuum pouch with the oil, thyme and garlic, seal on hard vacuum. Cook the lamb rump in the preheated water bath for 40 minutes. Remove the lamb from the vacuum pouch, drain on kitchen paper. Heat a frying pan and seal the fat side down with the butter until golden brown. Carve and serve. Shoulder Croquettes: 1 deboned shoulder of lamb 1 clove of garlic 1 sprig of thyme Maldon Sea Salt and freshly cracked black pepper 2 tbs olive oil 4tbs of shallot confit 2tbs chopped soft herbs (chives, tarragon, chervil and thyme) Panko Breadcrumbs 1 egg, lightly beaten Seasoned flour Pre-heat the water bath to 83°C. Season the lamb and place it in a vacuum pouch with the oil, thyme and garlic, seal on hard vacuum. Cook the lamb shoulder in the preheated water bath for 12 hours. Remove from the pouch; remove as much fat as possible and finely flake the cooked shoulder meat. Mix the flaked shoulder meat with the confit shallots and chopped herbs; season to taste. Shape tablespoons full of the mixture into croquette shapes, dip each croquette in the flour, then egg, and roll it in the panko breadcrumbs. Fry the croquettes at 160°C in a deep-fat fryer until golden brown and hot on the inside, serve with the lamb. Soused Asparagus, Radishes & Kolhrabi 1 kolhrabi 1 bunch of baby leeks 1 bunch of breakfast radishes 1 bunch of English asparagus 50g caster sugar 50ml white wine vinegar 100g unsalted butter ½ tsp English mustard powder Maldon Sea Salt and freshly cracked black pepper In a small saucepan dissolve the sugar and mustard powder in the vinegar over low heat, monte the cold butter into the warm mixture and season to taste, set aside. Blanch all the vegetables till al-dente, cut into appropriate size pieces and bar-mark the vegetables on a hot griddle pan, pour over the warm sousing mixture and set aside for 10 minutes before serving. To Serve: Serve the sliced lamb rump with fragrant puy lentils and the soused vegetables; fry the croquettes just before serving.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Flavours of‌
JUNE 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Dingley Dell Smoked Ham Scotch Egg Serves 4 4 hen’s eggs, soft boiled (7 minutes) 200g cooked smoked Dingley Dell ham knuckle meat, flaked 200g Cumberland sausage meat 1tsp ground fennel seeds 1 cove of garlic, crushed Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 2 tbs finely chopped mixed herbs such as parsley, chives and chervil 50g flour 1 whole raw egg, lightly whipped 200g panko breadcrumbs Mix the cooked flaked ham knuckle meat with the sausage meat, seasoning, crushed garlic, ground fennel seeds and the chopped herbs. Peel the soft-boiled hen’s eggs. Pack the meat around the soft-boiled eggs; leave them to set in the fridge. Panée the eggs: roll the Scotch egg in the flour, then the whipped egg and then lastly in the panko breadcrumbs. Heat a deep fat fryer to 160°C, fry the eggs until golden brown, drain them on kitchen paper. To Serve: Serve the Scotch egg on its own or with a seasonal salad of artichokes, broad beans and nasturtium leaves and flowers.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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A Cheeky Sandwich: Crispy Battered Cod Cheeks, Fennel and Kolhrabi Slaw Serves 4 For the Crispy Battered Cod Cheeks 12 cod fresh cheeks 40g cornflour 150g self-raising flour 250ml local real ale (use a real ale that best represents your area) 1 egg yolk 2 egg whites Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Sunflower oil for deep-frying Mix the flour, cornflour, salt, egg yolk and ale into a smooth paste. Whip the egg whites until fluffy and stop just before the soft peak stage. Fold the egg whites into the batter and leave to settle for five minutes. Remove the skin from the cod’s cheeks, wash and pat them dry on kitchen paper. Heat the oil to 160ºC. Once it reaches the correct temperature, dip the cod cheeks in the batter and fry them for about 3 -4 minutes until golden brown all over. Cooking time will be dependent on the size of the cheeks. Drain the cheeks on kitchen paper and season immediately with salt and serve. For the Fennel and Kolhrabi Slaw 1 kolhrabi, peeled 1 bulb of fennel, preferably with the leaves Juice and zest of one lemon Maldon sea salt and Freshly cracked black pepper Olive oil Cut the tops from the fennel, finely chop. Use a Japanese mandoline to finely slice the fennel and kohlrabi, mix with the fennel tops. Season well and add olive oil and lemon juice to taste. For the Aubergine Chips 2 large aubergines 3 tbs olive oil 1 sprig of thyme 1 clove of garlic, crushed 1tsp Ras-el-Hanount Maldon sea salt and Freshly cracked black pepper
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Preheat the oven to 190°C. Cut the aubergine in half scoop the inside flesh out leaving about 1 ½ cm thick white flesh attached to the skin. Cut it into long fingers about ½ wide. In a large mixing bowl mix the crushed garlic, aubergine fingers, ras-el-hanout and seasoning with the olive oil. Spread the aubergine fingers on a baking tray and bake in the oven for about 15 minutes, until golden. To Serve: Cut a floury bap in half, toast the bottom and spoon the fennel and kohlrabi slaw on top. Arrange the crispy battered cod cheeks on top and serve with the aubergine chips on the side.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Strawberry Arctic Roll
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
35
Strawberry Arctic Roll Serves 12 -16 For the Strawberry Ice Cream 500ml Strawberry puree 300ml double cream 150ml full fat milk 125g caster sugar 200g English strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters In a large container whisk the strawberry puree, milk, sugar and cream. Refrigerate for 2 hours. Churn the ice cream. Once ready layer clingfilm on a clean chilled working bench, spoon the ice-cream on the clingfilm and arrange a row of the strawberry quarters, roll the ice-cream into a sausage 4cm in diameter and about 20cm long. Roll all the logs and place them in the freezer overnight to set. The following day prepare the sponge and continue making the arctic roll. For the Sponge 5 large free range eggs 100g caster sugar + extra for dusting 80g plain flour, sifted twice Zest of one lemon Pre-heat the oven the 200°C and line a baking tray with parchment paper. Whisk the eggs and sugar until thick and doubled in volume. Fold in the sifted plain flour and lemon zest. Using a pallet knife to spread the sponge about 0.5cm thick on the parchment paper using the whole size of the sheet, bake for 4-5 minutes in the preheated oven and once cooked immediately sprinkle the brown side with caster sugar, keep the paper on and roll the cake up like a Swiss roll. Leave to cool completely. Do so with the rest of the sponge mix. Each sheet of sponge should cover at least two strawberry ice cream logs. Assemble the Arctic rolls: spread strawberry jam on the white side of the sponge, unwrap the strawberry ice cream log and place it on one side, roll it up tightly and cut the sponge where the two edges meet. Wrap it again in clingfilm and return to the freezer to set. Repeat the processes with the rest of the ice-cream logs. For the Strawberry Jam 500g jamming sugar (sugar that contains pectin) 500g fresh English strawberries, washed, hulled and cut into quarters Juice of ½ lemon In a medium heavy based saucepan sprinkle the sugar over the strawberries, followed by the lemon juice. Leave to marinade for 30 minutes. Dissolve the sugar over low heat, stop stirring once the jam starts to boil, cook the jam to 107°C, and transfer the jam to a clean container and leave to cool completely. To Serve: Slice the arctic roll into serving size portions, spread some of the strawberry jam on the plate, arrange the arctic roll and serve with a small portion of goat milk panacotta topped with strawberries macerated with thyme and balsamic. Garnish the plate with hydrated strawberry crisps and strawberry sherbet.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Flavours of‌
JULY 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
37
Crayfish Popcorn, Sea Shore Salad, Crayfish Ketchup
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
38
Crayfish Popcorn, Sea Shore Salad, Crayfish Ketchup Serves 6 Crayfish Popcorn 2kg fresh live medium Simply Crayfish 100ml rapeseed oil 1tbs chopped dill 70g popcorn kernels Ras-el-Hanout Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Sea Purslane Freshly popped and blanched broad beans Fresh peas popped and blanched Pea shoots Lemon vinaigrette Samphire Blanch the fresh crayfish in rapid boiling water for 1 minute, dip into ice water, remove the tails from the shells, and make bisque using the shells. Pop the popcorn kernels using half the rapeseed oil, season with freshly cracked black pepper, Maldon sea salt and a good pinch of ras-el-hanout. Prepare the salad; mix the broad beans, peas, pea shoots, sea purslane and blanched samphire with lemon vinaigrette. Place into the serving dishes. Heat a non-stick frying pan with the remaining oil, sautĂŠ till golden, season and mix in the chopped dill. Mix with the crushed popcorn and serve on the lemon dressed salad. Serve with a helping of crayfish ketchup on the side. Crayfish Ketchup 500ml crayfish bisque made from the shells 1 large red onion, sliced 1 bulb of fennel, sliced 2 celery sticks, sliced 50g fresh ginger, peeled 2 cloves of garlic crushed 2tbs coriander seeds 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped 50ml rapeseed oil Small bunch of oregano, stalks and all 1kg over ripe plum tomatoes, cut in quarters, seeds removed 500g tinned chopped tomatoes 200ml red wine vinegar 80ml Worcester sauce 80g tomato puree 80g dark brown sugar Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper In a large saucepan sweat the onion, celery, fennel, garlic, ginger, chilli, coriander and fennel seeds till golden brown. Add the oregano, tomato puree, Worcester sauce, sugar and vinegar, cook for 5 minutes. Add all the tomatoes, stir and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, season to taste. Simmer for 20 minutes, stir occasionally. Put the mixture through a food mill. Transfer the tomato mix to a clean saucepan and add the crayfish bisque, bring to a gentle simmer and reduce toll the right thickness, (by half, is a good measure). Cool and keep refrigerated till needed.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
39
Tinned British Sardines, Heirloom Tomato and Onion Salad
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
40
Tinned British Sardines, Heirloom Tomato and Onion Salad Serves 6 1kg sardines, scaled and filleted 200ml white wine vinegar 200ml white wine 100ml crustacean oil or olive oil ½ tsp coriander seeds ¼ tsp fennel seeds Pinch of dried flaked chillies 1 star anise 2 bay leaves ¼ tsp black peppercorns ½ tsp Maldon sea salt 1 clove of garlic lightly crushed Scale, fillet and wash the sardines, pat them dry, place the sardines skin side up in a deep tray. In a small saucepan lightly toast all the spices, add the wine and vinegar, bring the mixture to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the crustacean or olive oil, bay leaf and crushed garlic; set aside to cool to approximately 30 °C and infuse. Once the mixture has cooled pour it over the prepared sardines, cover them completely, refrigerate for 12 hours. To Serve: When ready to serve place blanched samphire and sea purslane in the bottom of a sardine tin, place the sardines on top and drizzle extra crustacean oil over. Serve with toast and heirloom tomato and onion salad.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
41
Gooseberry Curd and Brown Sugar Meringue Mess
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
42
Gooseberry Curd and Brown Sugar Meringue Mess Serves 6 Brown Sugar Meringues 200g egg whites 200g dark brown sugar 200g caster sugar Pinch of salt Preheat the oven to 110°C and line two/three large baking trays with parchment paper or silpats. Place the egg whites, salt and sugar in a large saucepan. Cover your hands with clean disposable gloves. Place the saucepan over a very low heat to gently heat the egg whites and to melt the sugar. Stick your hand into the egg and sugar mixture and stir it continuously. By using your hands you can control the heat, as you should not heat the egg whites and sugar above 37°C. Stir it all the time to help dissolve the sugar. Once the temperature has reached 37°C, transfer the mixture to an electric mixer with a balloon whisk, whip to thick ribbon stage. Pipe the meringues on the prepared baking trays; leave sufficient gaps as they swell when they cook. Bake the meringues until they are dry (for the thumb size meringues bake for 1 hour). Check that they are cooked by touching their outsides, if they are firm on the outside but still slightly gooey in the centre then they are done. Leave to cool completely. Gooseberry Curd 200g fresh gooseberries, stalks removed and washed 200g caster sugar 50ml lemon juice 2 large whole free range eggs 2 large free-range egg yolks 125g unsalted butter, chilled, chopped in small pieces Using a thermomix: weigh the gooseberries and sugar directly into the thermomix bowl, blend on speed 10 and scrape the sides down. Set the timer to 10 minutes, 100°C speed 10. Insert the butterfly whisk and add the eggs and lemon juice, set the timer for a further 8 minutes, speed 4. After 6 minutes of the cooking time drop the cold chopped butter into the mixture, a few pieces at a time. Transfer the gooseberry curd to a clean container and set to cool over ice. Gooseberry Compote 400g gooseberries, trimmed and washed 200g caster sugar 50ml St Germain Elderflower Liquor 1 vanilla pod, seeds only In a medium saucepan melt the sugar and vanilla in the liquor over low heat, increase the heat and boil for 5 minutes. Drain the gooseberries and add to the boiling liquid, cook rapidly for 5 – 8 minutes, until the first berries start to burst, remove from the heat and leave to cool completely. To Serve: Assemble the Mess in an appropriate serving glass. Stir the curd to loosen it up. Spoon some of the gooseberry compote into the base of the glass, crush some brown sugar meringues on top and add a few spoons of the curd. Repeat the process till the glass is full, garnish with three small brown sugar meringues and serve with two garibaldi biscuits
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
43
Flavours of‌
AUGUST 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
44
Mustard Seed Smoked Red Poll Beef, Soft Boiled Duck Egg and Cobnuts
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
45
Mustard Seed Smoked Red Poll Beef, Soft Boiled Duck Egg and Cobnuts Serves 10 1½ kg fillet of Red Poll Beef 200g caster sugar 200g salt 1tsp coriander seeds 4tbs yellow mustard seeds 10 black peppercorns 1tbs sunflower oil 200g basmati rice Trim the beef and cut it into an even shaped barrel. Using a pestle and mortar lightly crush 1tbs of the mustard seeds and the coriander seeds. Mix with the sugar and salt. Cover the beef completely with this curing mixture, refrigerate for 4 hours. Wash the beef under cold running water and pat dry using kitchen paper. Rub the beef with the sunflower oil and place it on a cooling rack. In a deep metal tray or large frying pan soak the rice in 100ml cold water, add the remaining mustard seeds and peppercorns. Place the pan over a gas flame until the rice and mustard starts to smoke, place the cooling rack with the beef over the smoking rice. Remove from the heat, place a lid on top or cover with tin foil. Leave for approximately 30 minutes. Wrap the smoked beef in cling film in the shape of a barrel. Refrigerate until cold and transfer the beef to the freezer for at least 4 hours to set. Use a slicing machine and slice the venison into 2-3mm thick slices. Place 5 slices on a chilled plate, keep refrigerated until needed. For the Watercress Emulsion 100g watercress 6 mint leaves 10g Dijon mustard 10g sherry vinegar 100ml sunflower oil Maldon Sea Salt and freshly cracked black pepper Blend the watercress, mint, mustard and vinegar; slowly add the oil to form an emulsion. Season to taste. Refrigerate till needed, To Serve: Remove the plate from the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature. Rub the surface of the meat with olive oil and place a soft-boiled duck egg cut in half on top. Drizzle over the watercress emulsion. Garnish with toasted and crushed cobnuts and dressed watercress leaves.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
46
Fig and Caramelised Red Onion Tatin, Barrel Aged Feta, Salted Honey and Pink Peppercorn Vinaigrette
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
47
Fig and Caramelised Red Onion Tatin, Barrel Aged Feta, Salted Honey and Pink Peppercorn Vinaigrette Serves 4 Fig and Caramelised Onion Tatin 600g red onions, peeled and finely sliced 1 clove of garlic, crushed 30g unsalted butter + extra to grease the moulds Freshly cracked black pepper and coarse sea salt 30g muscovado sugar 50g raspberry vinegar 1tsp chopped thyme 6 large ripe figs 4 x 9cm diameter all butter puff pastry disks 120g barrel aged feta cheese Preheat the oven to 200°C and grease 4 x 8cm x 2cm round tart moulds with butter. Heat a medium saucepan with the butter and sweat the onions and garlic with seasoning until it starts to caramelise. This should take about 10 - 15 minutes. Add the sugar and cook until dissolved. Deglaze with the vinegar and cook for a further 8 -10 minutes. The caramelised onions should be coating and not too dry or too wet. Once the onions are done stir in the chopped thyme and cool. Wash the figs and cut them in ¼’s if they are large and ½ if they are small. Place the figs at the base of the prepared moulds. Spoon a generous amount of caramelised onions on top of the figs and top with the pastry discs. Tuck the pastry in to encase the caramelised onions. Let the tarts rest for 30 minutes in the fridge before baking. Bake the tarts for 30 minutes; let them cool for 2 minutes before turning them out onto a cooling rack. Salted Honey and Pink Peppercorn Vinaigrette 3tsp English mustard 100ml rapeseed oil 30ml Aspal Cyder vinegar 1 clove of garlic, crushed Maldon Sea Salt Juice of ½ lemon 1tbs local honey ¼ tsp crushed pink peppercorns Measure all the ingredients for the vinaigrette into a jar with a tight fitting lid, shake vigorously until mixed, taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. To Serve: Serve the warm tarts on a plate, crumble over barrel aged feta cheese and garnish with dressed salad leaves. Drizzle over the Salted Honey and Pink Peppercorn dressing and
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
48
Apricot and Thyme Soda
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
49
Apricot and Thyme Soda Serves 6 450g ripe fresh apricots, stoned 250g caster sugar 250ml cold water Juice and zest of one lemon 3 large sprigs of thyme Ice Extra sprigs of thyme Chilled sparkling mineral water Wash and stone the apricots, place them with the rest of the ingredients in a vacuum pouch, seal on hard vacuum. Place the bag in a preheated water-bath at 82째C for 45 minutes, let cool over ice and leave in the fridge for 48 hours. Pass the juice through a fine sieve or muslin cloth; use the apricot pieces for another recipe. Pour the syrup into a clean container and keep refrigerated until needed. To Serve: Dilute the chilled cordial to taste with chilled sparkling water and plenty of ice cubes and extra crushed thyme
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
50
Flavours of‌
SEPTEMBER 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
51
Damson and Rosemary Jelly
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
52
Damson and Rosemary Jelly Makes approximately 6 x 250ml jars 1.6kg ripe damsons 4 large sprigs of fresh rosemary 2 lemons 1400g preserving sugar Wash the damsons, cut them in half and fill a large saucepan, cover the damsons with cold water, bring the damsons to the boil. Place a plate on top then weigh them down and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes. Add the fresh rosemary for the last 10 minutes of cooking time, remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool for 30 minutes. Pour the juice into a jam bag or muslin cloth, hang it in the fridge and leave to drip through overnight. Weigh the juice and then work out how much preserving sugar is needed. Use 10 parts of liquid to 7 parts of sugar; for 2 litres of juice use 1400g preserving sugar. Return the sugar and juice to a large saucepan, dissolve the sugar over low heat, turn the heat up and rapidly boil till 110°C on a sugar thermometer. Sterilise the preserving jars. Once the jelly is ready, leave to cool slightly before pouring the jelly into the warm sterilised jars, seal the lids whilst hot and leave to cool completely. Keep for up to three months in a cool, dark and well-ventilated space or in the fridge. To Serve: Serve with breakfast scones, pancakes, roasted pork, venison, pheasant and cheese. Chef’s Tips: Difference between preserving sugar and jamming sugar: Preserving sugar has larger crystals than granulated sugar, hence dissolving slower than granulated sugar and reduce the risk of burning, it also is “cleaner” and produces less “scum” or impurities that rise to the surface when cooking jellies. Jamming sugar contains added pectin and citric acid witch enables jams cooked with fruits that contains less natural pectin to set better / firmer.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
53
Open Pulled Venison and Butternut Chutney Sandwich
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
54
Open Pulled Venison and Butternut Chutney Sandwich Serves 6 sandwiches and the chutney makes 2kg Pulled Venison Neck 1.4kg venison neck, bone in 2 cloves of garlic 1tsp coriander seeds 6 in number of each black and white peppercorn Maldon Sea Salt 6 in number juniper berries 2 large sprigs of rosemary 2 tbs rapeseed oil Preheat the water bath to 82°C. Season the meat and rub the oil over the meat, lightly crush the juniper and coriander seeds with the garlic, rub it over the meat. Place the venison neck with the rest of the ingredients into a vacuum bag, seal on hard vacuum. Cook the venison in the preheated water bath for 12 hours. Remove the meat from the bag, remove the aromatics, use a fork to pull the venison meat off the bone and serve immediately. If not serving immediate cool the cooked venison in the unopened vacuum bag in ice water, keep chilled until needed, to re-heat place the bag in a preheated water bath for 1 hour, remove the meat from the bag onto a baking tray and in a preheated oven at 200°C for 30 minutes to ensure it’s piping hot. Use a fork to pull the meat off the bone and serve. Butternut Chutney 750g peeled and 1cm diced butternut squash 500g caster sugar 500ml cider vinegar 1 large onion, peeled 3 cloves of garlic, peeled 2 large red chillies, seeds removed 100g fresh ginger 1 cinnamon stick 6 cardamom pods, toasted 1 star anise 150g golden sultanas 400g apple, peeled and 1cm diced 300g plum tomatoes, skin removed and roughly diced In a food processor, mince the garlic, ginger, onion and chillies. Measure the sugar and vinegar into a large saucepan; add the minced onion mix along with seasoning, cinnamon, star anise and cardamom pods. Dissolve the sugar over low heat, increase the heat and bring it to a rapid boil, after 5 minutes add the diced butternut squash, apples, sultanas and tomatoes, bring back to the boil and cook until the chutney is thick, the apples has disintegrated and the butternut is soft enough but not completely lost it’s shape. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Transfer the chutney to a clean sterile container or jars and refrigerate till needed. The best advice is to leave the chutney to mature for a week before using; this helps the flavours to mature. To Serve: Toast 6 slices of sourdough on a grill; rub the hot toast with a crushed clove of garlic, and season with Maldon Sea Salt. Place a generous amount of pulled venison on top, followed by watercress and a large spoonful of the butternut chutney. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
55
Flavours of‌
OCTOBER 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
56
Tufted Duck and Chicken Liver Parfait, Red Wine Poached Quinces, Pickled Walnuts
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
57
Tufted Duck and Chicken Liver Parfait, Red Wine Poached Quinces, Pickled Walnuts Serves 10/12 For the Tufted Duck and Liver Parfait 250g tufted duck meat, cut into even size pieces 500g chicken livers 150g banana shallots, diced 1 clove of garlic, crushed 1tsp chopped fresh thyme 625g unsalted butter 1tsp coriander seeds, crushed 60ml brandy Maldon Sea Salt and Freshly Cracked Black Pepper Preheat the oven to 150°C. Fry the shallots in 50g butter with seasoning until transparent. Once cooked add the garlic, thyme, brandy and crushed coriander, melt the remainder of the butter and add to the shallots leave to cool slightly. Blend the duck and chicken livers till pureed, whilst blending add the cooled shallot and melted butter mix, season and blend to emulsify. Pour the mixture into a terrine mould, place in a bain-marie, and cover with lids. Cook the parfait in the preheated oven for 45 minutes. Cool over ice, once chilled, blend the parfait until silky smooth and leave to set in the fridge for 1 hour before serving. For the Red Wine Jelly 200ml good quality red wine 30g sugar 1.5g agar agar In a small saucepan, mix all the ingredients together, bring to the boil, simmer for 1 minute. Pour the mixture into a small lean square flat plastic container, leave to set, do not move until completely set. For the Red Wine Poached Quinces 400g fresh firm but ripe quinces 100g caster sugar Maldon Sea Salt and Freshly Cracked Black Pepper 200ml good quality red wine 5 juniper berries, crushed Preheat the water bath to 75°C. Peel and core the quinces, cut them into ½ cm thick wedges. Season the quinces with salt and pepper. Vacuum the crushed juniper, quince wedges, red wine and sugar. Cook in the preheated water bath for 30 minutes, or until tender but not too soft. Cool over ice. To Serve: Scoop a quenelle of parfait onto a slice of toasted baguette, place on the plate. Garnish the plate with dollops of the jelly, slices of red wine quinces and pieces of pickled walnuts, finish with a few micro leaves and rapeseed oil, serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
58
Apple Snow, Warm Honey Madeline
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
59
Apple Snow, Warm Honey Madeline Serves 10 For the Honey Madeline: 250g unsalted butter 200g icing sugar 80g ground almonds 80g plain flour 4 free range egg whites 30g local honey Zest and juice of 1 lemon Pinch of Maldon Sea Salt Turn the butter to burre noisette, stir in the honey and lemon juice, cool completely. Sift the icing sugar, almonds and flour into a medium mixing bowl. Whip the egg whites with a pinch of salt until soft peak. Stir the burre noisette and lemon zest into the sifted flour mix, fold the egg whites into the mixture, transfer to the fridge for 12 hours. Preheat the oven to 170°C and grease the Madeline moulds, spoon the rested mixture into the prepared moulds and bake for 12 – 15 minutes. For the Apple Snow: 500g Orange Pippen Apples, peeled and diced 20g unsalted butter 40g honey 50ml Cognac 200ml fresh apple juice 200g fresh free range egg whites 200g sugar 150ml double cream 1 vanilla pod, split, seeds removed Heat a medium non-stick frying pan with the butter, once it starts to foam add the apples and honey, sauté until transparent and slightly coloured. Deglaze the pan with the cognac, cook until absorbed, add the apple juice, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook until the apples are softened but haven’t lost their shape completely; the mixture needs to still be a bit soft and wet, not entirely dry. Cool completely; prepare this one day in advance. Spoon a tablespoon of the apple compote into the glasses, set aside. Heat the egg white and sugar till 37°C, stir to dissolve the sugar. Transfer to a mixer and whip the whites to a glossy meringue. Whip the cream with the vanilla seeds till soft ribbon stage. In a large mixing bowl fold the meringue, 6 tablespoons of apple compote and the cream together. Spoon this into the glasses, use a blowtorch to colour the top and serve immediately with the warm honey Madeline’s.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
60
Flavours of‌
NOVEMBER 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
61
Rabbit En-Croute, Creamed Savoy Cabbage and Turnips
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
62
Rabbit En-Croute, Creamed Savoy Cabbage and Turnips Serves 4 For the Rabbit En-Croute 2 whole rabbits 1 clove of garlic 2 large sprigs of thyme 1tsp coriander seeds 5 in number black peppercorns 250g mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and sliced 80g unsalted butter 400g good quality puff pastry 1 chicken breast 200ml double cream 1 egg white 1tsp truffle oil 2 tbs chopped mixed soft herbs (tarragon, chives, chervil) Poppy seeds 1 egg, lightly beaten Joint the rabbit: remove the front and back legs, set the loins aside. Place the legs in a vacuum pouch with the garlic, thyme, coriander seeds and peppercorns, vacuum and cook in a preheated water bath at 84˚C for 9 hours. Once cook, chill over ice. Sauté the mushrooms in the butter with seasoning until golden brown, drain and cool. In a food processor blend the chicken breast with the egg white, pass the mix through a fine sieve, and stir in the cream until the mix thickens with seasoning. Fold in the chopped herbs, truffle oil, cooled sautéed mushrooms and flaked chilled cooked leg meat, check seasoning. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to rest. Roll the puff pastry out about 2mm thick; use a pastry roller to mark and cut the puff pastry into 5.5cm x 6cm pieces. Place two spoons full of the leg mixture in the centre, cut the loins in half and place two halves into of the leg meat mix, brush the sides with egg wash and fold the edges over like an envelope. Crimp the sides, flip the encroute over, wash the presentation side with egg wash and garnish with poppy seeds. Rest for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200˚C, place the en-croutes on a lined baking tray and bake for 22 -25 minutes. Serve immediately. For the Creamed Cabbage 1 small Savoy cabbage, core removed and finely shredded 50g unsalted butter 100g smoked bacon, diced 1 carrot, peeled and diced ½ cm square 1 large turnip, peeled and diced ½ cm square 100ml dry white wine 100ml chicken stock 200ml double cream Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Blanch the shredded cabbage in salted rapid boiling water till al-dente, refresh in ice water. In a medium size saucepan melt the butter and sauté the diced bacon, carrot and celeriac until golden, deglaze with the wine and add the chicken stock, reduce the heat and simmer until the stock reduced by half and the carrots and celeriac is cooked. Add the blanched cabbage, bring the mix to the boil, add the cream and season to taste simmer until the cream has thickened, and serve immediately. For the Turnip Puree 400g turnips, peeled and roughly diced 20g unsalted butter Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 150ml chicken stock 100ml double cream
In a medium size saucepan melt the butter and sauté the turnips with seasoning until they start to colour slightly golden, add the chicken stock, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cover the pan with a lid, cook until the turnips are soft and the stock nearly completely evaporated. Add the cream, bring back to the simmer for 2 minutes, blend until a smooth puree, adjust the seasoning and keep warm until needed. To Serve: Spoon the turnip puree on the plate, spoon a generous amount of the creamed cabbage on the plate, cut the cooked rabbit en-croute, place on top of the creamed cabbage, serve with baby turnips and sautéed trompette de la mort mushrooms. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
63
Pear Parfait, Liquorice and Pear Sorbet
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
64
Pear Parfait, Liquorice and Pear Sorbet Serves 12 For the Pear Parfait Sponge Base 5 whole eggs 100g caster sugar 80g plain flour, sifted Preheat the oven to 180Ëš C. Whisk the eggs and sugar till thick ribbon stage, fold in the sifted flour. Using a pallet knife spread the sponge about 2mm thick onto a sillpat. Bake for 5 -6 minutes in the preheated oven. Leave to cool. Place the rectangle metal 28cm x 18cm x 4cm on top and cut the sponge to size, set aside. For the Pear Parfait 125g caster sugar 25ml cold water 2tbs Poire William liqueur 6 large egg yolks 500ml double cream 200g good quality pear puree In a metal bowl over boiling water, whisk the egg yolk, sugar and water till 78ËšC, transfer the mix to a mixer with a balloon whisk and whisk the sabayon until aerated, cold and double in volume. In a separate bowl whip the cream, pear puree and liqueur until ribbon stage. Fold the cream into the sabayon, immediately transfer the parfait mixture to the lined metal pastry mould and freeze for minimum of 6 hours. For the Liquorice and Pear Sorbet 500g good quality pear puree 160ml cold water 160g cater sugar Juice of one lemon 30g glucose 40ml liquorice concentrate Make stock syrup by bringing the water, sugar, glucose and lemon juice to the simmer, boil for 5 minutes. Mix the pear puree with the stock syrup and liquorice concentrate, leave to cool and churn the sorbet, freeze. For the Liquorice Jelly 200ml water 65g caster sugar 50ml liquorice concentrate 2g agar 2 leaves of gelatine, soaked In a small saucepan bring the water, sugar, liquorice concentrate and agar to the simmer, boil for one minute. Remove for the heat, drain the gelatine and stir it into the hot liquid. Pour the jelly into a small container, leave to cool and set. Poached Pears 6 pears 500ml water 500g caster sugar 2 liquorice root 1 cinnamon stick 2 star anise 2 lemons Peel the pears, cut them in half, and remove the core. In a large saucepan dissolve the sugar in the water; add the slightly crushed liquorice root, cinnamon stick, star anise and the juice and zest of the lemons. Bring the stock syrup to the boil, simmer for 5 minutes, add the pears, cover with a cartouche, reduce the heat and poach the pears until tender to the knife point. Leave to cool in the syrup. Cut the pears to size before serving. To Serve With a hot knife slice a piece of the parfait, place it on a cold plate, decorate with small squares of the jelly, poached pears and a small scoop of the sorbet, dust with liquorice powder and serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
65
Flavours of‌
DECEMBER 2011
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
66
Jerusalem Artichoke and Walnut Pithivier, Cranberry Sauce
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
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Jerusalem Artichoke and Walnut Pithivier, Cranberry Sauce Serves 4 For the Jerusalem Artichoke Pithivier 500g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled 50g unsalted butter 1clove of garlic, crushed 4 banana shallots, diced 80g golden sultanas soaked in 120ml white wine 80g walnuts, roasted 80 kale, shredded and blanched Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 500g puff pastry 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten 1tbs linseeds Boil the artichokes in salted water till soft to the knifepoint, drain and crush using a fork. Sauté garlic and shallots in the butter with seasoning until soft and transparent, add the wine and soaked sultanas and cook until the wine has evaporated and the mixture become dry. Mix the cooked shallots into the crushed artichokes; add the walnuts and kale, adjust the seasoning if needed. On a lightly floured work surface roll the pastry ½ cm thick out and cut 8 x10cm disks. Spoon a generous amount of the Jerusalem artichoke mix on 4 of the disks, brush the edges with the egg yolk, place another pastry disk on top and crimp the edges. Use a pastry cutter to cut the pithiviers out in 8cm diameter, transfer them to a lined baking tray, glaze with more egg yolk and garnish each with linseeds, leaving them to rest for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200˚ C. Bake the pithiviers in the preheated oven for 22 -25 minutes, serve immediately once cooked. For the Cranberry Sauce 350g fresh cranberries 100ml white wine vinegar 100g caster sugar 1 cinnamon stick 1 clove 1 star anise Juice and zest from one large orange 1 onion, minced 1 clove of garlic, minced Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Place half the cranberries, vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, clove, star anise, orange juice and zest, minced onion and garlic with seasoning in a medium saucepan, bring to a gentle simmer over low heat, cook until the sauce is thickened and the cranberries have broken up. Fold in the rest of the cranberries, bring the mix back to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes, remove from the heat and cool. To Serve 20 x baby leek batons, blanched 20 x cooked salsify batons 1tbs unsalted butter Maldon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 80g blanched kale Cooked pithiviers Cranberry Sauce Sauté the leeks and salsify in the butter until golden, season and drain using kitchen paper. Place the cooked kale on the plate and place the baked pithivier on top, spoon the cranberry sauce around and garnish each plate with the sautéed leeks and salsify, and serve.
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68
Chestnut Mousse, Chocolate Chestnut Crumb
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
69
Chestnut Mousse, Chocolate Chestnut Crumb Serves 12 - 16 For the Chocolate Chestnut Cake 225g bitter chocolate 225g unsalted butter 6 medium free-range eggs, separated 100g caster sugar 50g ground almonds 50g chestnut flour 1tsp baking powder Preheat the oven to 180˚ C and line a ½ gastro tray, 32cm x 26cm. Melt the chocolate and butter over a double boiler, remove from the heat and whisk in the egg yolks. Whilst the chocolate is melting whip the egg whites and sugar to a glossy meringue with soft peaks. Fold the meringue into the melted chocolate mixture, sift over the chestnut flour, baking powder and ground almonds and fold it together. Pour the cake batter into the prepared cake tin and bake for 20-22 minutes, test with a metal skewer, if it comes out clean then the cake is cooked. Leave the cake to cool on a cooling rack. Once cooled, break the cake into pieces, and dry it in the oven at 100°C until the texture of dried breadcrumbs. For the Chestnut Mousse 225g unsweetened chestnut puree Seeds from one vanilla pod 170g mascarpone cheese 2tbs dark rum 250ml double cream 3 egg medium free-range whites 125g cater sugar 2 leaves of gelatine, soaked and melted Blend the chestnut puree and vanilla seeds till smooth, add the mascarpone and rum, blend until smooth, and keep refrigerated until the rest of the ingredients are ready. Whip the cream to a light ribbon stage. Whip the egg whites and sugar over a pan with boiling water till it starts to foam and has nearly doubled in size, transfer to a mixer with a balloon whisk and whip the meringue till glossy and soft peak stage, add the melted gelatine at the very end and mix it in. Gently fold the meringue and cream into the chestnut mascarpone mixture, do not over mix. Transfer the mousse to a 1L tub and refrigerate until completely set, about 6 hours. For the Cocoa Ganache 200ml cold water 200ml double cream 200g caster sugar 80g bitter cocoa powder 4 leaves of gelatine, soaked Measure all the ingredients apart from the gelatine into a small saucepan, over medium heat stir and bring to the boil, boil for 2 minutes, add the gelatine and transfer to a small container, leave to cool and set completely. This takes approximately 6 hours. For the Candied Chestnuts 200g fresh roasted and peeled chestnuts 200g caster sugar 1tsp unsalted butter Cut the fresh roasted peeled chestnuts into quarters. Heat a medium non-stick saucepan with the sugar, butter and chestnuts, let the sugar start to dissolve and stir continuously to cause crystallisation whilst the
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sugar turns to caramel. Boil until a dark caramel colour, pour the candied crystallised chestnuts out onto a lined baking tray. Leave to set and cool. Chop the candied chestnuts into smaller pieces for serving.
For the Cocoa Filo Wavers 50g unsalted butter, melted 15g dark brown sugar 20g bitter cocoa powder 2 sheets of filo pastry
Preheat the oven to 180째C, and line a baking tray with a silpat. Melt the butter, sugar and cocoa powder, mix well. Brush each filo sheet with the melted butter on both sides, place on the tray and place another silpat on top to weigh it down. Bake for 10 minutes, leave to cool completely. To Serve Crumb the cake crumb into a neat line on a serving plate, place a quenelle of the chestnut mousse off centre onto the cake line, crumb the candied chestnuts and place two smaller quenelles of the ganache on either side. Crack the filo waver into pieces, and decorate the plate. Grate over a fresh chestnut and finally place a few pieces of gold leaf onto the plate and serve immediately.
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