FLAVOURS OF 2013 For THE CATERER BY Madalene Bonvini-Hamel www.britishlarder.co.uk
BRITISH SEASONAL HEROES
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
2
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
3
Flavours of‌
FEBRUARY 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
4
Halibut Carpaccio with Pink Grapefruit Vinaigrette and Oatcakes
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
5
Halibut Carpaccio with Pink Grapefruit Vinaigrette and Oatcakes Serves 4 as a starter For the Oatcakes 200g jumbo rolled oats 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary ¼ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 2 tablespoons rapeseed oil 100ml boiling water For the Pink Grapefruit Vinaigrette 100ml cold pressed rapeseed oil 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 30ml pink grapefruit juice 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon caviar (optional) sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Halibut Carpaccio and Tartar 80g very fresh skinless, boneless halibut, thinly sliced for carpaccio 120g very fresh skinless, boneless halibut, cut into 5mm dice finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime 1 tablespoon mascarpone cheese 1 teaspoon chopped fresh soft mixed herbs (such as chervil, chives and parsley) 1 teaspoon caviar (optional) First, prepare the oatcakes. Blend half of the oats with the salt, rosemary and bicarbonate of soda to form a powder. Transfer this mixture to a mixing bowl and add the remaining rolled oats, the rapeseed oil and boiling water and stir to mix. Cover and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Preheat the oven to 160°C/Gas Mark 3. Roll out the oatcakes mixture between two sheets of non-stick baking paper to about 2mm thickness, then cut into oblongs, about 4 x 1.5cm in size (to make about 30 biscuits in total). Place on a large baking tray and bake in the oven for 18–20 minutes or until they are completely crisp and dry. Transfer the oatcakes to a wire rack and leave to cool. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Prepare the vinaigrette. Place all the ingredients, apart from the caviar, in a small, clean jar, season to taste with salt and pepper and shake well to combine. For the carpaccio, place the thinly sliced halibut carpaccio slices on chilled serving plates and return to the fridge until you are ready to serve. Make the tartar. In a small bowl, gently mix the diced halibut, lime zest and juice, mascarpone and salt and pepper together, then fold in the herbs and the caviar (if using). To serve, stir the caviar (if using) into the vinaigrette and then spoon the vinaigrette around the halibut carpaccio. Divide the tartar between 8 oatcakes and sandwich them together with 8 more oatcakes. Place these on the halibut carpaccio and serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
6
Parsnip Panna Cotta with Pickled Parsnips and Roasted Pecans
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
7
Parsnip Panna Cotta with Pickled Parsnips and Roasted Pecans
Serves 4 as a starter For the Pickled Parsnips 160g (peeled weight) parsnips, left whole 100ml cider vinegar ½ teaspoon coriander seeds, lightly toasted 1 star anise 1 tablespoon caster sugar 100ml rapeseed oil For the Parsnip Panna Cotta 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 320g (prepared weight) parsnips, peeled and roughly diced 650ml milk 2 leaves of gelatine 250ml double cream juice of ½ lemon sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Parsnip Salad 25ml rapeseed oil 160g (prepared weight) parsnips, peeled and cut into 1cm dice 1 teaspoon white truffle oil To garnish 2 large handfuls of dressed seasonal cress salad 25g lightly roasted pecan nuts For the pickled parsnips, thinly slice the parsnips using a mandolin. Mix all the remaining ingredients with the parsnips, transfer to a vacuum pouch and seal on hard vacuum, then leave in the fridge for at least 1 day before using. Drain the parsnips before serving and use the pickling liquid as a vinaigrette to drizzle over the cress salad, if you like. Prepare the parsnip purée for the panna cotta. Melt the butter in a saucepan and once it is foaming, add the parsnips, with salt and pepper to taste, and sauté over a medium heat for about 8 minutes or until they start to turn golden and are nearly tender. Add 400ml of the milk and continue to cook over a medium heat for 15–20 minutes or until the parsnips are soft, then remove from the heat. Immediately use a handheld stick blender to purée the mixture to a smooth but thick consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. To make the panna cotta, measure 200g of the parsnip purée into a small saucepan and then set the rest aside for serving. Soak the gelatine in cold water until it has softened. Add the remaining milk and the cream to the measured parsnip purée, then bring to the boil. Remove the pan from the heat and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Squeeze the gelatine gently to remove the excess water, then add the gelatine to the warm parsnip mixture and stir to dissolve. Stir in the lemon juice to taste. Pour the panna cotta into 4 small ramekins or small plastic pudding basins. Transfer to the fridge and leave to set for at least 6–8 hours. For the parsnip salad, heat the rapeseed oil in a non-stick saucepan over a low heat, add the parsnips with salt and pepper, then cover and sweat for 8–10 minutes or until the parsnips are softened but not coloured, stirring regularly – they will start to lose their shape, but that is fine. Once cooked, add the truffle oil and then leave to cool at room temperature. To serve, gently reheat the reserved parsnip purée until it is tepid not boiling, and then spoon this onto the serving plates. Turn the panna cotta out by dipping the base of each mould in warm water and then gently shake to release. Place the panna cotta on top of the parsnip purée, then spoon over the parsnip salad and pickled parsnips. Garnish with the dressed cress salad and shave over the roasted pecan nuts using a Microplane. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
8
Flavours of‌
MARCH 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
9
Leeks Vinaigrette with Slow-cooked Duck Eggs and Fresh Cow’s Curd
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
10
Leeks Vinaigrette with Slow-cooked Duck Eggs and Fresh Cow’s Curd Serves 4 as a starter For the fresh cow’s curd 2 litres full-fat cow’s milk 150ml lemon juice 1½ teaspoons sea salt For the slow-cooked duck eggs and leeks vinaigrette 4 duck eggs 200g young leeks or baby leeks 1 bay leaf 2 dried juniper berries, lightly crushed 2 fresh thyme sprigs 50ml cider vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard a pinch of caster sugar 150ml groundnut oil 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper To garnish finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 hard-boiled duck eggs, shelled 2 handfuls of freshly picked chickweed For the cow’s curd, rinse a medium saucepan with cold water, then put the milk, lemon juice and salt in the pan. Over a low heat, bring the milk mixture to 80°C, stirring once to prevent it from catching, but do not stir continuously. It should take up to about 10 minutes to reach 80°C. Once the correct temperature is reached, remove from the heat and set aside at room temperature for 2 hours. The curds and whey will separate during this time. Line a colander with muslin cloth and place the colander over a bowl. Gently scoop the curds into the muslin using a slotted spoon. Transfer to the fridge and leave to drain overnight. The following day, transfer the cow’s curd to a clean airtight container and keep refrigerated until needed. Fresh curd cheese should keep for up to 3 days in the fridge. To slow-cook the duck eggs, preheat the water bath to 64°C. Cook the eggs for 45 minutes. Once cooked, transfer them to an ice bath and leave to cool and set for 20 minutes. While the duck eggs are cooking, prepare the leeks and vinaigrette. Remove the outer leaves of the leeks and wash the leeks thoroughly. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, then add the bay leaf, juniper and thyme. Add the leeks to the pan and cook for 2–3 minutes or until just tender, then drain and dunk them in iced water to stop the cooking process. Discard the cooking water and flavourings. Once the leeks are cold, drain them on kitchen paper. Prepare the vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, sugar and salt and pepper, then slowly add the groundnut oil, whisking continuously. Once emulsified, adjust the seasoning to taste. To serve, in a mixing bowl, toss the leeks with a generous amount of the vinaigrette. Divide the leeks between 4 serving plates. To finish the slow-cooked eggs, heat the rapeseed oil in a non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Crack the slow-cooked eggs into cups, then add them to the pan and fry the eggs for 30 seconds on one side only. Carefully remove the eggs from the pan and place on top of the leeks. Crumble the fresh cow’s curd over the dish. To garnish, sprinkle the lemon zest over the dish, then grate the hard-boiled eggs over the top. Finally, toss the chickweed in some of the remaining vinaigrette and then scatter this over the dish. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
11
Monkfish Baked in Hay Ash with Scallops and Curried Cauliflower
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
12
Monkfish Baked in Hay Ash with Scallops and Curried Cauliflower Serves 4 as a main course For the monkfish baked in hay ash 200g hay 3 sheets of filo pastry 40g unsalted butter, melted 4 x 100g skinless boneless monkfish tail portions 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 4 fresh hand-dived scallops, shelled For the cauliflower purée 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 200g cauliflower, roughly chopped 100ml chicken stock 50ml double cream sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the curried cauliflower 80ml rapeseed oil 3 banana shallots, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 300g cauliflower florets 1 teaspoon mild curry powder 80g golden sultanas, soaked in 100ml dry white wine 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mixed parsley and chervil First, prepare the hay ash for the monkfish. Take extra care when preparing this stage – my recommendation is to do this outside. Place the hay in a metal tray and set the hay alight, then let it burn away to ashes. Leave to cool completely. Once cold, pass the ashes through a fine sieve, discard any hard firm pieces and only keep the fine powdery ashes. Lay 1 filo sheet on a chopping board and brush with melted butter. Place another filo sheet on top and brush with melted butter, then place the last filo sheet on top and brush with melted butter. Cut the filo stack into 4 even-sized strips. Roll the monkfish portions in the hay ashes and then roll up each piece of monkfish in a filo pastry strip (the two ends of each filo parcel will be open). Place the parcels on a baking tray lined with non-stick baking paper and leave in the fridge while preparing the cauliflower purée and curried cauliflower. For the cauliflower purée, melt the butter in a medium saucepan over a low heat, add the cauliflower and salt and pepper, then cover and sweat for about 8 minutes or until the cauliflower is softened but not coloured. Add the chicken stock, cover and cook over a low heat for a further 8 minutes or until the cauliflower is completely soft. Add the cream, bring back to the boil and simmer for 1 minute. Purée until smooth and keep warm. For the curried cauliflower, heat the rapeseed oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat, add the shallots, garlic and salt and pepper and sauté for about 5 minutes or until slightly softened. Add the cauliflower and curry powder and sauté for a further 5 minutes. Add the soaked sultanas and wine and cook for a further 3–4 minutes or until the wine is absorbed. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed. Stir in the chopped herbs and keep warm. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Bake the monkfish parcels in the oven for 12–14 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden and the monkfish is cooked. During the last 4 minutes of the monkfish cooking time, pan-fry the scallops. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a non-stick frying pan. Season the scallops with salt and pepper, then add them to the pan and cook over a high heat for about 2 minutes on each side or until just cooked and golden. To serve, spoon a tablespoon of the cauliflower purée on to each plate and then place a cooked scallop on top. Spoon the curried cauliflower on to the opposite side of the plates. Cut the ends off the monkfish parcels to neaten them (discard the ends) and place a parcel on top of the curried cauliflower. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
13
Flavours of‌
APRIL 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
14
Crab Grazing Platter
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
15
Crab Grazing Platter Serves 4 as a light lunch or brunch For the Potted Crab 100g unsalted butter 1 bay leaf Âź teaspoon cayenne pepper Âź teaspoon ground mace 100g banana shallots (peeled weight), finely chopped 50ml dry sherry a pinch of grated nutmeg 150g cooked crabmeat (white and brown) juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon chopped par-cel (parcel) sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Crab Beignets 80g unsalted butter 150ml water a pinch of sea salt 120g plain flour 3 large free-range eggs, lightly beaten 300g brown crabmeat 50g spring onions, finely sliced 1 tablespoon each finely chopped fresh parsley and fresh chervil sunflower oil, for deep-frying For the Crab Salad 400g white crabmeat 1 tablespoon mascarpone 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mixed herbs (such as tarragon, parsley, chervil, chives and coriander) 1 spring onion, finely chopped finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon For the Watercress Emulsion 50g fresh watercress, leaves only 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard a pinch of caster sugar 50ml rapeseed oil For the Jersey Royal Potato Salad 300g Jersey Royal new potatoes, boiled, cooled, peeled and chilled 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon finely chopped capers 1 teaspoon finely chopped cornichons 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mixed par-cel (parcel) and watercress 1 tablespoon mayonnaise To Serve 8 wafer thin slices of toasted baguette (served warm or cold) 2 breakfast radishes, finely sliced 8 micro radishes, washed To make the potted crab, warm the butter in a pan over a low heat with the bay leaf, cayenne pepper and mace, until just melted to make clarified butter, then pass it through muslin cloth into a small bowl. Discard the bay leaf, then set aside to cool but not harden. Put the shallots, sherry, nutmeg and salt and pepper in a separate small saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer over a medium heat, then simmer for about 5 minutes or until the shallots are soft and transparent. Remove from the heat and place the pan over ice for about 10 minutes or until completely cold. Put the mixed crabmeat into a bowl, season with salt and pepper, then add the lemon juice, two-thirds of the clarified butter, the chopped par-cel and the chilled cooked shallots, and stir to mix. Spoon the mixture into 4 small jars, smooth the tops and then pour on the remaining clarified butter to seal. Refrigerate for about 2 hours or until set. To make the crab beignets, first prepare the choux pastry. Put the butter, water and pinch of salt into a saucepan and cook over a medium heat until the butter has melted, then bring to a gentle simmer for 5
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
16
minutes. Tip in the flour and beat to mix with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is smooth and comes away from the sides of the pan to form a ball of dough. Remove from the heat, then gradually beat in the eggs, until the mixture becomes silky, shiny and smooth. The choux pastry is now ready to be transferred to a clean container, then cooled, covered and kept chilled until needed. The unbaked choux pastry will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 day. To make the crab salad, place all the ingredients in a mixing bowl, season to taste with salt and pepper and mix lightly. Cover and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes before serving. To make the watercress emulsion, place all the ingredients, apart from the rapeseed oil, in a blender and blend until smooth. Slowly add the oil while blending to form an emulsion. Pour into a small bowl, cover and refrigerate until needed. To make the potato salad, dice the cooked and chilled potatoes and mix with all the remaining ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then cover and refrigerate until needed. When you are ready to cook the beignets, mix the crabmeat, spring onions and chopped herbs into the choux pastry. Heat some sunflower oil in an electric deep-fat fryer or in a deep frying pan to a temperature of 160°C (or until a small piece of bread browns within 20 seconds in the hot oil). Once the oil is hot enough, place heaped teaspoonfuls of the choux pastry mixture into the hot oil and deep-fry for about 2 minutes or until cooked, crisp and golden brown – you will need to deep-fry the beignets in three batches. Using a slotted spoon, remove and drain the cooked beignets on kitchen paper, then keep warm while you cook the remainder. To serve, place a pot of potted crab and 2 slices of toasted baguette on one end of each large serving plate. Spoon a spoonful of the watercress emulsion in the centre of the plate and place some beignets on top, then place a quenelle of the potato salad next to the beignets. Arrange a few slices of radish on the far end of the plate, place a quenelle of the crab salad on top and then place 2 micro radishes on the crab salad. Serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
17
Mango Parfait with Coconut Macaroon
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
18
Mango Parfait with Coconut Macaroon Serves 12 For the Mango Parfait 3 large free-range egg yolks 80g caster sugar 50ml water 125g mango purée (I recommend Boiron mango purée), chilled 25ml Malibu 300ml whipping cream For the Coconut Macaroons 2 large free-range egg whites 100g caster sugar 80g desiccated coconut finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime For the Mango and Coconut Sauce 200g (prepared weight) ripe mango flesh, roughly chopped 25ml Malibu 200ml stock syrup juice of ½ lime 50g toasted desiccated coconut To Serve and Decorate 50g toasted desiccated coconut 200g (prepared weight) mango flesh, diced 2 limes, segments only 50g fresh coconut shavings 25g fresh coriander cress To make the mango parfait, place 12 metal rings in the freezer to chill. Use a Thermomix to make the parfait base. Place the egg yolks, sugar and water into the bowl and insert the butterfly whisk, then set the timer for 17 minutes at 80°C on speed 4. Once the sabayon is cooked, add the chilled mango purée and the Malibu, transfer to a bowl over ice and leave to cool for 10 minutes, then chill the sabayon in the fridge for 30 minutes. Whip the cream to soft peaks, then fold it into the chilled sabayon. Divide the mixture between the chilled rings and return the parfait to the freezer for a minimum of 12 hours. To make the coconut macaroons, preheat the oven to 110°C/Gas Mark ¼ and line 2 baking trays with nonstick baking paper. Place the egg whites and sugar in a small saucepan over a very low heat, place a disposable glove on one hand and stir the egg whites with your hand for about 3–4 minutes or until the sugar is dissolved and the temperature reaches about 37°C. Transfer the warm egg whites and sugar to the bowl of an electric mixer, attach the balloon whisk and whisk the whites and sugar together until the mixture forms soft peaks. Fold the coconut and lime zest and juice into the mixture. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag fitted with a small plain nozzle and pipe 20 pence-sized macaroons onto the prepared baking trays. Leave them to rest for 10 minutes before baking, then bake in the oven for about 1 hour or until crisp and dry but still pale in colour. Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely on the baking trays. Once cold, store in an airtight container – the macaroons will keep for up to 1 week. (The recipe makes more than you’ll need but it cannot be scaled down any further, and the macaroons keep well if stored correctly.) To make the mango and coconut sauce, place all the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 30 minutes. Blend until smooth, then pass the sauce through a fine sieve and discard any solid bits. Cover and chill the sauce until needed. To serve, chill 12 serving plates. Drizzle the mango and coconut sauce over the chilled plates. Crush 6 macaroons. For each serving, sprinkle a little of the crushed macaroons onto a chilled plate to form a platform for the parfait. Turn a parfait out of its metal ring and roll it in the toasted desiccated coconut to coat all over, then place it on the crushed macaroons. Place another whole macaroon on the parfait. Decorate each plate with some diced mango, lime segments, fresh coconut shavings and coriander cress. Serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
19
Flavours of‌
MAY 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
20
Smoked Prawn Bisque, Tempura Asparagus
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
21
Smoked Prawn Bisque, Tempura Asparagus Serves 6 as a starter For the Smoked Prawn Bisque 1kg smoked prawn shells 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil 2 banana shallots, sliced 1/2 fennel bulb, trimmed and sliced 1 carrot, sliced 2 sticks celery, sliced 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed 4 white peppercorns 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 bay leaf a large handful of fresh herbs (such as parsley and thyme) a pinch of cayenne pepper 100g tomato purée 6 large ripe plum tomatoes, roughly diced 200ml brandy 300ml dry vermouth 1 litre fish stock 500ml brown chicken stock 200ml double cream sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
For the tempura smoked prawns and asparagus 25g cornflour 75g self raising flour 1 egg yolk 125ml sparkling water Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 2 egg whites 6 asparagus spears 6 whole smoked prawns To make the bisque preheat the oven to 200°C and roast the smoked prawn shells for 30 – 40 minutes until they are deep golden brown. Heat the oil in a large stockpot and sauté the shallots, fennel, carrot, celery, garlic, peppercorns and coriander seeds, with a little salt and pepper added (be conservative with the salt as the bisque can easily become salty), over a medium heat for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. Add the herbs, cayenne pepper, tomato purée, diced tomatoes and roasted smoked prawn shells. Add the brandy to the pan and let it bubble, stirring and scraping the base of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze it, then cook over a high heat for 5–6 minutes or until the brandy is reduced and becomes syrupy. Add the vermouth to the pan and cook over a high heat for 7– 8 minutes or until the vermouth is reduced and becomes syrupy. Add the fish and chicken stocks, then bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 30 minutes, removing any scum from the surface with a ladle. Remove from the heat and carefully pour the mixture into a blender and blend until smooth. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, then return the liquid to a clean saucepan (discard the solids in the sieve). Bring the bisque to the boil over a medium heat, then simmer for 15–18 minutes or until reduced, thickened, glossy and dark golden copper brown in colour. Stir in the cream and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove from the heat and taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. For the tempura batter. Mix the corn flour, flour, egg yolk, water and seasoning till a smooth paste. In another bowl whisk the egg whites till frothy but stop just before soft peaks, fold the white into the batter and set aside for 10 minutes till needed.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
22
To serve, heat a deep-fat fryer with oil to 160°C. Dip the asparagus and prawns in the batter and fry for about 3 – 4 minutes till cooked and crisp, drain on kitchen paper and season lightly with sea salt. Reheat the bisque till boiling hot, use a hand held blender to aerate and serve in soup bowls along with the tempura prawns and asparagus.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
23
Guinea Fowl Ballotine, Asparagus and Nasturtium
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
24
Guinea Fowl Ballotine, Asparagus and Nasturtium Serves 6 as a starter For the De-hydrated Vegetable Garnish 80g carrot, peeled and finely diced 80g leek, finely diced 80g shallot, finely diced For the Guinea Fowl Ballotine 4 Guinea fowl legs 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed 1 sprig of thyme 3 Guinea fowl inner fillets 500ml Guinea fowl stock 3 leaves gelatine, bloomed 2 tablespoons chopped mixed herbs (chives, chervil, parsley) sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the pickled round shallots 300g small round shallots, peeled 300ml white wine vinegar 300g caster sugar 1 teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon white mustard seeds 2 star anise 1 garlic clove, crushed For the Sorrel Oil 100g sorrel 100ml peanut oil To Serve 3 pheasant eggs 18 spears asparagus 80g nasturtium leaves First prepare the de-hydrated vegetables for the garnish on the outside of the ballotine. Preheat the dehydrator to 80°C. Lightly season the chopped vegetables with salt and pepper and spread them on the de-hydrator shelves. De-hydrate for 12 hours. Once dry, leave to cool at room temperature for 1 hour and then finely chop to represent dried vegetable crumbs. Keep in a air tight container till needed. Prepare the guinea fowl ballotine. Place the guinea fowl legs in a vacuum pouch along with the thyme and garlic and season with salt and pepper, seal the bags on hard vacuum and cook in a preheated waterbath 83°C for 5 ½ hours till tender. Flake the cooked legs and remove the bone and skin, mix in the chopped herbs and season to taste. Bring the stock to the boil, season to taste and dissolve the bloomed gelatine in the warm stock. Cook the guinea fowl inner fillet in a hot non-stick frying pan for about 6-7 minutes, rest the inner fillets for 3 mintues. To shape the ballotine place a triple layer of clingfilm on a clean work surface, add a few ladles of the stock with gelatine to the flaked leg meat and place half the mix on the clingfilm in a oblong shape, press flat with your hand, place the cooked inner fillets in the centre of the leg meat and place the rest of the leg meat on top, add a bit more stock if the meat is too dry. The stock will help the ballotine to set. Roll the ballotine tightly in the clingfilm in a long sausage shape with about 5cm diameter, tie the ends and refrigerate for 6 hours till completely set. For the pickled round shallots. Cook the peeled shallots in salted water for 6 minutes, refresh in ice water. Bring the rest of the ingredients to the simmer over medium heat for about 2 minutes, add the drained cooked shallots and bring the mix back to the boil for 1minute, cool and keep refrigerated till needed. Prepare the sorrel oil. Bring a medium pan with salted water to the boil and cook the sorrel fro 1 minute, dunk in ice water and repeat the process for the second time, cool the blanched sorrel in ice water. Drain and squeeze to remove all the water. Place the blanched sorrel and oil with seasoning in a blender and blend till smooth. Keep refrigerated till needed. Cook the pheasant eggs in a pan with salted boiling water for 3 minutes; cool immediately in ice water and peel. Blanch the asparagus in boiling salted water, refresh in ice water and keep chilled till needed. To serve, cut the ballotine in 3 – 4 cm thick slices, remove the clingfilm and roll the outside of the ballotine in the de-hydrated vegetable crumbs, place on the plate. Cut the eggs in half and serve a half egg per portion along with the pickled shallots, asparagus and nasturtium leaves, dot the sorrel oil and serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
25
Flavours of‌
JUNE 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
26
Poached Red Gurnard, Asparagus Mouse, Samphire Vinaigrette
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
27
Poached Red Gurnard, Asparagus Mouse, Samphire Vinaigrette Serves 6 as a starter For the Red Gurnard 6 x 60g – 80g gurnard portions, boneless and skinless (keep the skin to dry out and use as garnish) Sea salt For the Asparagus Mousse 50g chopped banana shallots 40g unsalted butter 250g chopped asparagus, both stalks and tips 300ml white chicken stock 25g spinach 100ml double cream 2 gelatine leaves, bloomed Salt and Freshly cracked black pepper Juice of half a lemon For the Samphire Vinaigrette 80g large leaf spinach 100g samphire 2 Noiri sheets 2 tablespoons mirin 60ml peanut oil Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
To Serve 12 spears of green asparagus 12 spears of white asparagus 100g samphire 50g sea purslane (optional) Sea salt 1 tablespoon rapeseed oil First prepare the asparagus mousse. In a medium saucepan sauté the shallots in the butter until transparent but not coloured. Add the asparagus and season to taste. Cook for 2 minutes, remove from the heat and add the spinach. In a separate saucepan bring the stock to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the bloomed gelatine, mix to dissolve. Place the asparagus and the liquid in a blender and blend until smooth, adjust seasoning and add lemon juice to taste. Pour the mixture into a container, place the container over ice in the fridge, refrigerate until set completely about 3 hours. Make the samphire vinaigrette. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, cook the spinach and samphire until tender for about 2 minutes, drain and refresh in ice water. Once cold drain and place in a blender jug add the noiri sheets, mirin and season lightly, blend and slowly add the oil. Season to taste and chill until needed. Cook the gurnard. First remove any fish and fat from the skin, you need 6 pieces of skin. Place them flat on a lined baking tray, lightly season with sea salt, place another piece of parchment paper on top of the skin and place a heavy baking tray on top. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 180°C for 15 – 20 minutes until crispy and golden. Cool on a cooling rack unitl needed. Wrap the gurnard in clingfilm to shape them in even size barrels vacuum each in bags. When you are ready to serve cook the fish in a pre-heated waterbath at 64°C for 10 minutes. Blanch the asparagus and samphire in boiling salted water until al dente, drain and season with salt and toss in the rapeseed oil. To serve, divide and arrange the asparagus, samphire and sea purslane between six starter plates. Place the cooked gurnard on top, spoon a quenelle of the asparagus mousse on each plate, drizzle the vinaigrette and place a crisp piece of fish skin on each plate and serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
28
Roasted Strawberry Bavarois, Dandelion and Burdock Jelly
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
29
Roasted Strawberry Bavarois, Dandelion and Burdock Jelly Serves 12 For the Strawberry Ice Cream 500g strawberry puree 300ml double cream 150ml milk 125g caster sugar For the Strawberry Bavarois 1kg fresh ripe strawberries, hulled 100g icing sugar 240g caster sugar 100ml cold water 6 egg yolks 3 leaves gelatine, bloomed 400g strawberry puree, chilled 600ml whipping cream 50g Micro mint for garnish 20 g freeze-dried strawberry pieces For the Dandelion and Burdock Jelly 275ml Fentimans dandelion and burdock drink 50g caster sugar 2 leaves gelatine, bloomed For the roasted strawberry pre-heat the oven to 180째C. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Place the strawberries on the lined tray and dust over the icing sugar. Roast the strawberries for 10 -12 minutes, leave to cool completely. Make the strawberry ice cream. Place all the ingredients for the ice cream in a blender and blend for one minute. Churn the mixture, using an ice cream maker, follow the manufacturers guidelines. Store the churned ice cream in the freezer until needed. Set half the roasted strawberries aside for garnishing the finished dessert and divide the remaining roasted strawberries and the roasting juices between 12 chilled desert glasses, refrigerate until the bavarois mix is made. To make the strawberry bavarois place the caster sugar, water and egg yolks in a Thermomix jug, insert the butterfly whisk and set the timer to 19 minutes, 90째C speed 4. Drain the bloomed gelatine and add to the hot sabayon, whip for 30 seconds and add the chilled strawberry puree. Transfer the mix to a bowl over ice and cool. Whilst the mixture is cooling semi-whip the cream till soft ribbon stage. Fold the whipped cream into the strawberry mix. Transfer the mix to a piping bag and divide the mixture between the 12 chilled glasses with the roasted strawberries. Refrigerate until completely set, about 4 hours. Make the dandelion and burdock jelly. Gently heat the dandelion and burdock drink and sugar over low heat until just before boiling point. Add the drained bloomed gelatine, stir to dissolve and pass through a fine sieve, pour into a container and set for about 4 hours until completely set. To serve, arrange the roasted strawberries on top of the set bavarois. Add dollops of the set dandelion and burdock jelly between the strawberries and place a scoop of strawberry ice cream in the centre. Garnish with micro mint and freeze dried strawberry pieces and serve immediately.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
30
Flavours of‌
JULY 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
31
Pan-Fried Hake, Fennel Confit, Dry Sherry Sauce
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
32
Pan-Fried Hake, Fennel Confit, Dry Sherry Sauce Serves 6 For the Fennel Confit 1 fennel bulb 200ml olive oil Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 bay leaf For the Dry Sherry Sauce 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 fennel bulb, finely sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 60g celery, finely sliced 1 banana shallot, finely sliced Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 125ml dry sherry 500ml fish stock 125ml double cream For the Sauté Potatoes and Seashore Vegetables 12 new potatoes, cooked and sliced 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 100g samphire 50g sea purslane 50g sea aster Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Hake 6 x 150g hake fillet portions, skin on, scaled and bones removed 2 tablespoons rapeseed oil Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper First prepare the fennel confit. Cut the fennel in half-length ways and then slice into 5mm thick pieces. Place the fennel with seasoning, oil, garlic and bay in a small saucepan over low heat, place a cartouche onto the surface, once the oil reaches 50 °C remove from the heat and place the pan in a warm place (on top of a oven or pan rack over the cooker) for about 30 minutes until the fennel is softened but not pureed. Drain from the oil and keep warm until serving. Prepare the sauce. In a medium saucepan melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the fennel, garlic, celery and shallot with seasoning until golden brown, about 7 – 8 minutes, stir continuously to prevent it from catching. Once the vegetables is golden brown and softened add the sherry to de-glaze and rapid boil for 2 minutes, add the stock and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes, add the cream, bring the sauce back to the boil for one minute. Blend the sauce until smooth and pass through a fine sieve. If too thick let down with extra fish stock, taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Set aside till needed. For the sauté potatoes heat a non-stick frying pan with the butter, sauté the sliced potatoes with seasoning until golden brown on both sides and add the seashore vegetables for the final 30 seconds of cooking time. At the same time heat another non-stick frying pan and pan-fry the seasoned hake skin side down first in a hot pan in the rapeseed oil for 4 - 5 minutes until the skin is golden brown and crisp, turn the fish over and complete for two more minutes on the flesh side. To serve, mix the fennel confit with the sauté potatoes and seashore vegetables. Divide it between six warm serving plates; place a piece of pan-fired hake onto each plate. Bring the sauce back to the boil, froth and serve over the fish.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
33
Baked Loganberry and White Chocolate Cheesecake
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
34
Baked Loganberry and White Chocolate Cheesecake Loganberries are a hybrid between a raspberry and blackberry. The colour is deep purple red and the taste is sharp and distinctly of a cross between a raspberry and blackberry. The season coincides with that of raspberries and usually finishes before the blackberry season begins. Serves 10 For the Base 75g rolled oats 75g plain flour 50g soft dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon runny clear honey 50g soft room temperature unsalted butter + 25g extra melted For the Cheesecake 500g fresh loganberries 800g cream cheese 75ml double cream 200g caster sugar Seed from one vanilla pod 2 whole large free-range eggs 2 large free-range egg yolks 120g white chocolate, melted White chocolate curls for garnishing 200ml stock syrup First prepare the base. Preheat the oven to 180°C and line one 28cm x 18cm oblong cake frame with parchment paper. Mix the oats, flour, sugar and honey in a medium mixing bowl, rub 50g soft butter into the mix until represents coarse breadcrumbs. Transfer the mix to a lined baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 12 -15 minutes, stir once during the baking time and bake until golden brown. Let the crumble mixture cool for 30 minutes. Transfer the crumble mixture to a blender and pulse blend twice, add 25g melted butter and pulse blend twice again. Spread the crumble mix in the base of the lined cake frame and press firmly to create the cheesecake base. Scatter 250g loganberries on the base of the cheesecake and refrigerate whilst preparing the filling. Using a blender to blend the cream cheese, double cream, sugar, vanilla seeds, eggs and melted white chocolate until smooth, do not blend no longer than one minute, the mix might split if over heats. Pour the mixture over the loganberries into the prepared mould and tap a couple of times to remove any trapped air bubbles. Bake the cheesecake for 22 – 25 minutes. If the cheesecake has a slight wobble in the centre then it’s done, let cool at room temperature for 30 minutes and chill in the fridge for minimum of 3 hours before cutting. Whilst the cheesecake is baking mix the remainder of the fresh loganberries with the stock syrup, if you are heavy handed then it’s good, as a few crushed berries will release their juices and create a good colour for garnishing. To serve, cut the chilled cheesecake into ten even width slices. Decorate with the loganberries in syrup and white chocolate curls.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
35
Flavours of‌
AUGUST 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
36
Chilled Cucumber Gazpacho
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
37
Chilled Cucumber Gazpacho Serves 10 For the Gazpacho 1kg large cucumbers 50g fresh tarragon, chopped 50g fresh oregano, chopped 50g fresh dill, chopped 1L vegetable stock 250ml full fat Greek yoghurt 50g creamed horseradish Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Garnish 1 cucumber 50ml full fat Greek yoghurt Fresh oregano 10ml rapeseed oil First prepare the gazpacho. Wash and finely slice the cucumbers, place in a large container and rest of the ingredients and season to taste. Rest the mix in the fridge for no more than 12 hours (if left longer it will ferment). Blend the gazpacho in a high-speed blender and pass through a fine sieve, discarding any solids left. Adjust the season if needed and chill over ice. For the garnish make cucumber spaghetti. Season lightly. To serve, pour the chilled gazpacho into chilled serving bowls and garnish with the cucumber gazpacho, dollops of yoghurt, rapeseed oil and scatter over the oregano leaves. Serve immediately. Cooks Note: the gazpacho can be used as a sauce to accompany a starter of marinated mackerel or poached salmon.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
38
Guinea Fowl Spiedini, Creamed Corn, SautĂŠ Courgettes
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
39
Guinea Fowl Spiedini, Creamed Corn, Sauté Courgettes Serves 4 For the Guinea Fowl Spiedini 500g guinea fowl breast, skinless, diced 3cm cubes 50g panko bread crumbs 1tbs oregano, chopped 1tbs flat leaf parsley, chopped Zest and juice of two lemons 30g parmesan grated 50g unsalted butter, melted 3tbs rapeseed oil 1 garlic clove crushed 2 green courgettes Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Creamed Corn 6 cobs of corn, husks removed and washed 1tbs rapeseed oil Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1tbs unsalted butter 1 garlich clove, crushed 1 shallot finely sliced 200ml chicken stock 100ml double cream For the Sauté Courgettes 2 green courgettes 1tbs rapeseed oil Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1tbs chopped fresh parsley and oregano First prepare the spiedini. For the breadcrumb coating, put the breadcrumbs, parsley, oregano, lemon zest and Parmesan cheese in a bowl and mix together. Set aside. Mix the melted butter and oil and add the garlic, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Dip each piece of guinea fowl into the melted garlic butter, then roll in the breadcrumb mixture to coat completely, using your hands to press the breadcrumb mixture on firmly. Lay the guinea fowl pieces on a baking tray lined with non-stick baking paper and leave to rest in the fridge for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, slice the courgettes lengthways into 2mm-thick slices or long ribbons using a mandolin. Wrap each piece of bread crumbed guinea fowl in a courgette ribbon and gently roll up. Thread about 4 pieces of courgette-wrapped guinea fowl on to each skewer (use metal or soaked wooden skewers). To cook heat a griddle pan and bar mark the skewers then transfer to a preheated oven at 200°C and cook for further 12 -15 minutes until cooked all the way through. (These are ideal to be cooked on a bbq) For the creamed corn, preheat the oven to 200°C. Season the corn and rub lightly with the oil and season. Wrap each in foil and cook in the oven for 30 minutes until tender. Leave to cool and then remove the kernels using a bread knife. Keep the value of two corns kernels for the garnish and use the remainder of corm kernels to make the cream. Heat a saucepan with the butter and sauté the garlic and shallots until it starts to colour, add the corn kernels and chicken stock, cook for 5 minutes, add the cream add bring back to the boil for a further 2 minutes. Blend until smooth and pass the purée through a fine sieve. For the sauté courgettes, wash and cut the courgettes into 2cm even size pieces. Heat a non-stick frying pan with the oil sauté the courgettes with seasoning until golden brown for a bout 2 – 3 minutes, add the corn to the pan to re-heat and add the herbs. To serve, spoon the warm puree onto the warm serving plates, arrange the sauté courgettes and roasted corn, place the cooked skewers on top and serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
40
Flavours of‌
SEPTEMBER 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
41
Hogget Ham, Slow Cooked Duck Egg, Roasted Golden and Ruby Beetroot
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
42
Hogget Ham, Slow Cooked Duck Egg, Roasted Golden and Ruby Beetroot Serves 12 For the Hogget Ham (makes more than 12 portions) 200g sugar 200g salt 15g saltpetre 1tsp celery salt 1tsp coriander seeds, crushed 1tsp chopped fresh thyme 1 garlic clove crushed 1tsp freshly cracked black pepper 3 x 1.25kg hogget breast, boneless For the Roasted Golden and Ruby Beetroot 500g small to medium size golden beetroot, washed 500g small to medium size ruby beetroot washed 80ml rapeseed oil 4 large sprigs of fresh thyme 100ml aspall cyder vinegar Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Beetroot Hummus 200g cooked chickpeas 200g roasted beetroot 80 g tahini paste 50ml rapeseed oil Juice of one lemon Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Slow Cooked Duck Eggs 12 duck eggs 200g panko breadcrumbs 50g unsalted butter First prepare the hogget ham, make dry cure for the ham. Mix all the curing ingredients together, rub this into the hogget breast and pack the breast into a large perforated tray, place clingfilm directly onto the meat and then place a heavy weight on top. Place in the fridge for 3 days, drain and turn the meat once a day. Wash the meat in cold running water to remove all the cure. Stack the breast on top of each other and then place the stack into a large vacuum ouch, seal on hard vacuum and cook in a preheated waterbath for 24hours at 65째C. Once cooked chill to 5째C within two hours in an ice bath. Remove the cooked meat from the bag and then press the hogget ham for minimum of six hours. The hogget ham is now ready to use. To cook the beetroot preheat the oven to 120째C. Wash the beetroots, keep the skin on, and remove all grit and roots. Place each colour in two separate bags, and divide the oil, thyme, and vinegar and season each bag. Seal the bags on hard vacuum and place them on a roasting tray in the preheated oven for approximately 2 hours, if they feel cooked, remove from the oven and leave to cool naturally. Once cooled, remove the beetroot form the bags and rub the skins off. Slice the beetroot in desired shapes and chill until needed. Prepare the hummus whilst the beetroot is cooking. Place all the ingredients for the hummus in a food processor, season to taste and pulse blend until desired consistency. Keep refrigerated until needed. For the slow cooked duck egg, preheat the waterbath to 63째C. In a small saucepan melt the butter and panko breadcrumbs and toast whilst stirring continuously until golden brown, transfer to tray with paper and leave to cool. Cook the duck eggs for 50 minutes, crack them into cups and separate the yolks from the whites, chop the whites and set aside till needed and dust the yolks in the toasted breadcrumbs. To serve, spoon the hummus on each plate, spoon the egg whites onto the plate the form a nest for the yolk and place the yolk onto the whites. Arrange the cooked golden and ruby beetroots and thinly slice the hogget ham and arrange alongside the beetroots, blanched and dressed green beans and garnish with dressed cress and serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
43
Plum and Almond Cakes, Honey Plum Ice Sorbet
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
44
Plum and Almond Cakes, Honey Plum Ice Sorbet Serves 12 For the plum and almond cakes 250g unsalted butter 180g egg whites (4 egg whites) 200g caster sugar 50g plain flour 250g ground almonds a pinch of salt 6 fresh ripe plums (honey plums or Victoria plums) For the honey plum ice cream 500g fresh ripe honey plums (prepared weight), stones removed, flesh cut into rough chunks (skins left on) 100g caster sugar 100g honey 300ml double cream 150ml full-fat milk For the honey plum sauce 250g fresh honey plums (prepared weight), stoned and roughly diced (skins left on) 100g caster sugar To serve and decorate 50g honey 50g toasted flaked almonds First, prepare the plum and almond cakes batter. Melt the butter and turn it into beurre noisette. To do this, put the butter into a shallow pan and leave it to melt over a medium heat. Once melted, keep heating the butter until it turns a golden brown colour and smells of hazelnuts. As soon as this happens, remove it from the heat and pour it through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl. Leave it to cool at room temperature for 1 hour. Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until they form stiff peaks, then gradually whisk in the caster sugar to make a stiff meringue mixture. Add the sifted flour, the ground almonds, salt and cooled beurre noisette and fold in to incorporate, but do not over-mix. Cover and chill in the fridge for 4 hours. While the batter is resting, prepare the ice cream. Put the plums, sugar, honey, cream and milk into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl, then pour the mixture into an ice-cream maker and churn until frozen (following the manufacturer’s instructions for your particular model). Keep the ice cream frozen until needed. Meanwhile, make the plum sauce. Place the plums, sugar and 100ml cold water in a saucepan and cook over a medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once the sugar has dissolved, bring the mixture to a simmer and simmer, uncovered, for about 5 minutes or until the plums are soft. Remove from the heat, then carefully transfer the mixture to a blender and blend until smooth. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a bowl, then chill it rapidly over ice. Once cold, cover and refrigerate until you are ready to serve. Finish the plum and almond cakes. Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Grease and line twelve 6 x 5cm metal moulds. Divide the chilled cake batter evenly between the prepared moulds. Cut each plum in half and remove the stone, then place one half cut side up on top of the cake batter in each mould. Place the moulds on a baking sheet, then transfer to the oven and bake for 16–18 minutes or until the cakes are golden brown and cooked. Remove from the oven and leave to rest in the moulds for 15 minutes, then carefully remove the cakes from the moulds and place on serving plates. To serve, drizzle the honey over each warm plum and almond cake and decorate with toasted flaked almonds. Serve each portion with the plum sauce and a scoop of the honey plum ice cream.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
45
Flavours of‌
OCTOBER 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
46
Gressingham Duck Breast, Slow Cooked Aubergines, Girolles
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
47
Gressingham Duck Breast, Slow Cooked Aubergines, Girolles Serves 6 For the Slow Cooked Aubergines 2 aubergines, roughly diced, skin on 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves of garlic 1tbs minced ginger 3plum tomatoes, concasé 1tbs tomato puree 100g golden sultanas, soaked in 100ml white wine 1tsp cumin freshly grounded 2 tablespoons chopped mint and coriander mixed For the Duck Breast 6 large Gressingham duck breast 3 sprigs of thyme, snapped in half 1 garlic clove, sliced into 6 To serve 2 baby aubergines, finely sliced 200g girolles, cleaned 1 tbs unsalted butter 200g cavolo nero Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
First prepare the slow cooked aubergines, deep-fry the diced aubergines until dark and deeply coloured, drain in a colander over a bowl, season with salt as it’s coming out of the fryer. Sauté the onions, garlic, ginger in olive oil, add the ground cumin and tomato puree, add the aubergines and seasoning. Cook until soft over low heat for about 10 minutes, add the sultanas and the wine, cook for 10 minutes. Fold the chopped herbs and tomato concasé in to the aubergines. Set aside until needed. For the duck breast, score the fat, place each breast into a vacuum bag and add a piece of thyme and a slice of garlic to each bag. Seal on hard vacuum and cook in the water bath at 57°C for 45 minutes. Remove the breast form the pouches, drain and render the fat until golden brown in a very hot pan. Rest the duck breast for 8 minutes whilst completing the dish. Sauté the girolles in the butter with seasoning until golden brown, drain on kitchen paper. Cook the cavolo nero until al dente in salted boiling water, drain and toss with seasoning and melted butter. Deep-fry the baby aubergine slices until crispy and golden brown, drain, season with salt. To serve, place a quenelle of the warm slow cooked aubergines on a warm plate, arrange the cavolo nero on the other end, scatter the sauté girolles over. Cut the duck breast in half and place the two halves on each plate. Sauce with a good jus and garnish with the aubergines chips.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
48
Floating Island, Rowanberry Custard
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
49
Floating Island, Rowanberry Custard Serves 12 For the Rowanberry Custard 250g ripe rowanberries 200ml cold water pinch salt 300ml milk 200ml double cream Seeds from one vanilla pod 150g caster sugar 6 large free range yolks For the Sugared Almonds 100g flaked almonds, toasted 100g caster sugar For the Floating Island 200ml milk 100g free range egg whites 100g caster sugar 12 rowanberries de-hydrated First prepare the rowanberry puree for the custard. Wash the berries and place in a small saucepan with the water and salt, bring to a rolling boil over high heat and cook for about 8 minutes until the berries burst and become soft. Pass the liquid through a sieve and push through the pulp. Prepare the custard, place the warm rowanberry pulp, milk, cream and vanilla in a medium saucepan over medium heat and bring to the boil. In a separate bowl whisk the yolks and sugar, add a couple of ladle of the hot liquid to the yolks, whisk and then pour it all back into the saucepan, over low heat, stir continuously until the mixture thicken but not boiled. Pass the custard through affine sieve into a bowl over rice to cool. Keep chilled until needed. Make the sugared almonds, make a caramel with the sugar, add the toasted almonds, toss and pour the hot caramel onto a lined baking tray, leave to cool completely. Once cooled, chop into smaller pieces. For the floating Islands, bring the milk in a small saucepan to a gentle simmer over medium heat whilst whisking the whites. Whisk the whites until foaming, add the sugar bits at a time and whip the meringues until glossy and soft peaks. Use two desert spoons to quenelle spoons full of the meringue and poach the islands in the simmering milk for about 5 – 6 minutes, do this in batches, turn them carefully a couple of times. Drain the cooked floating islands onto a plate. To serve, my suggestion is to serve these as a pre-dessert. Pour the custard into small serving glasses, approximately 100ml serving, place the cooked floating island onto of each glass of custard, garnish with the chopped sugared almonds and use a microplane to grate the de-hydrated rowanberries over the top and serve.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
50
Flavours of‌
NOVEMBER 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
51
Madras Spiced Pumpkin Soup, Pumpkin and Onion Bhaji
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
52
Madras Spiced Pumpkin Soup, Pumpkin and Onion Bhaji Serves 8 -10 For the Madras Spice Mix 2tbs whole coriander seeds 1tbs of each cumin seeds, fenugreek, yellow mustard seeds, black pepper corns, turmeric 40mm piece of cassia bark 5 whole dried Kashmir chillies 12 whole green cardamom pods 10 fresh curry leaves For the Pumpkin Soup 100g unsalted butter 1kg peeled and roughly diced pumpkin 2 tbs Madras spice mix Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper 1.25L white chicken stock or vegetable stock 200ml double cream For the Pumpkin Bhaji 1 large free-range egg 25ml milk 1 tsp vegetable oil 100g coarsely grated peeled pumpkin 50g finely sliced white onion 1tsp Madras spice mix 50g self raising flour Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
First prepare the Madras Spice Mix, in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat, dry toast the spices for 1 - 2 minutes, shake to ensure that they do not catch and burn. Do the same with the curry leaves, they will dry out and become crispy. Let the toasted spices cool and then grind to a fine powder using a spice grinder. Keep the toasted ground spices in an airtight container until needed. For the soup heat a large saucepan over low heat with butter, sweat pumpkin, madras spice mix and seasoning for about 8 -10 minutes, keep the pan covered with a lid, stir to prevent it from colouring. Add the stock, increase the heat and simmer the soup for 20 - 22minutes, until the pumpkin is very soft and falling apart. Add the cream, bring the soup back to the boil and blend until smooth. Pass the soup through a fine sieve, adjust the seasoning if needed. While the soup is simmering make the bhaji mix. Whisk the egg, milk and oil in a mixing bowl. Add the coarsely grated pumpkin, sliced onion and spice mix with seasoning, lightly mix to combine, add the flour and mix. Heat a deep fat fryer with oil to 160째C and once hot deep fry teaspoons full of the mix for about 4 -6 minutes, until golden brown and cooked all the way through. Drain the bhajis on kitchen paper and season with table salt. To serve, serve the boiling hot soup in warm soup cups or bowls and serve the bhaji on the side.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
53
Pheasant Breast, Stichelton Cheese and Quince
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
54
Pheasant Breast, Stichelton Cheese and Quince Serves 6 For the pheasant breast 6 pheasant breasts, skin on 200g Stichelton cheese, crumbed 120g soft unsalted butter Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the braised barley and quince 75g unsalted butter 150g celery, finely diced 150g banana shallots, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 200g diced quinces 100g pearl barley 225ml port wine 225ml pheasant stock Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the port wine poached quinces 250ml port wine 1tbs caster sugar 1tsp rapeseed oil 2 quinces, peeled, cored and sliced Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper To serve 200g cavolo nero 2tbs lin seeds 2tbs toasted sunflower seeds 2tbs reduced port wine 100g Stichelton cheese crumbed
Fist prepare the pheasant breast, make a pocket incision into each breast, and divide the cheese amongst the breast, pushing it into the pockets as deep as possible. Rub the soft butter over each pheasant breast and refrigerate for 30 minutes before cooking. Braise the barley; preheat the oven to 180°C. Heat a medium casserole dish that is oven proof over medium heat with the butter and sweat the celery, shallot, garlic, quince and seasoning for about 7 minutes, add the barley, mix and add the port wine and stock. Bring back to simmer, cover with lid and place in oven for 20 – 25minutes. Adjust seasoning if needed, keep warm. In the meantime poach the quinces in the port. Bring the port, sugar and oil to simmer, add the peeled and sliced quinces, place a cartouche over the quinces, weigh down with a plate and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, poach the quinces for 8 – 10 minutes, until soft to the touch. Set aside until needed. To cook the pheasant, heat a non-stick frying pan over medium heat, season the chilled buttered breast and panfry the pheasant breast skin side down until golden brown, flip them over onto a lined roasting tray and finish in the oven at 180°C for 8 minutes. Let he pheasant breast rest for 5 minutes. To serve, spoon the warm braised barely onto warm plates, arrange the poached quinces and serve each pheasant breast on top of cooked cavolo nero, garnish with linseed, sunflower seeds and crumbed Stichelton cheese.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
55
Flavours of‌
DECEMBER 2013
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
56
Bresola, Pickled Celeriac and Remoulade
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
57
Bresola, Pickled Celeriac and Remoulade Serves 10 -12 For the Bresola 1.5 kg topside of beef zest of one orange ½ tsp cloves 100g Maldon sea salt 100g dark brown sugar 2 tsp black peppercorns 1tsp Prague powder number 2 (containing nitrate and nitrite) 1 tbs chopped fresh rosemary 2 garlic cloves 1tbs juniper berries For the Pickled Celeriac 1 head of celeriac, 1mm thick sliced 200g caster sugar 200g white wine vinegar 1 garlic clove, crushed 1tsp coriander seeds Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Celeriac Remoulade 200g celeriac, shredded 50g homemade mayonnaise 25g grain mustard Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper Juice of one lemon First prepare the bresola. Pat the meat dry and place on a tray. Place the rest of the ingredients in a pestle and mortar and pound until a fine powered. Rub the marinade into the meat, place in a vacuum pouch and seal on hard vacuum. Place in the fridge for one week, turn the meat every day. Remove the meat from the bag, pat dry and wrap in muslin cloth. Hang the bresola in the fridge by the fan for 3 weeks. Prepare the celeriac pickle, place the sugar, vinegar garlic, coriander and seasoning into a small saucepan and bring a gentle simmer over medium heat, simmer for 5 minutes. Leave to cool for 30 minutes, pass the liquid through a fine sieve and then cool complete. Pour the liquid into a vacuum bag with the sliced celeriac and seal on hard vacuum, leave for 30 minutes before using, will keep up to two weeks unopened. For the remoulade, mix the shredded celeriac, mayonnaise, mustard and seasoning. Chill until needed. To serve, finely slice the bresola using a meat slicer and place on a chilled plate, spoon a few dollops of the remoulade on top and arrange a few slices of the drained pickled celeriac slices, garnish with shaved parmesan cheese, olive oil and micro cress.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
58
Goose Breast, Choucroute and Pancetta
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
59
Goose Breast, Choucroute and Pancetta Serves 4 For the Pancetta (makes more than what is needed) 1kg pork belly, skin removed, keep fat on 10g curing salt (pink salt) 25g table salt 30g dark brown sugar 6g vitamin C powder 2 garlic cloves ½ tsp ground nutmeg 2tsp ground cinnamon 2tsp chilly flakes 1tsp black pepper 2tsp coriander seeds 2tsp juniper seeds 50ml brandy For the Choucroute 1kg white cabbage, finely sliced 20g table salt 200ml white wine vinegar 100g unsalted butter 250g diced pancetta 1tsp coriander seeds 100g celery finely diced 100g onion finely diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 200ml dry white wine Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper For the Goose 1 goose breast (approximately 750g) 1tsp coriander seeds 1 sprig of thyme Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper First prepare the pancetta: pat the pork belly dry, place in deep tray. Place the rest of the ingredients apart from the brandy in a pestle and mortar and pound until fine. Rub this cure into the meat, place in a vacuum bag and seal on hard seal. Refrigerate and leave to marinade for 5 days, turning the meat every day. Remove the meat from the bag, pat the meat dry. Place the meat on a clean tray and sprinkle over the brandy, refrigerate for 3 hours before wrapping the meat in muslin cloth and hang in the walk in fridge by the fan for 3 weeks. Once the pancetta is ready, remove the muslin, dust of any excess bits of spices. Cut into smaller pieces and keep in the fridge for up to two weeks. For the choucroute, mix the finely sliced cabbage, table salt and vinegar, place in vacuum pouch and seal on hard vacuum, refrigerate and store for one week before using. Once ready, rinse the cabbage under cold running water and drain. In a saucepan over medium heat melt the butter and sautÊ the pancetta, crushed coriander seeds, celery, onion and garlic for about 8 minutes until golden brown, add the drained cabbage and season lightly, cover the pan with a lid and cook for 5 minutes, stir and add the wine, cook over low heat with the lid on for about 10 – 15 minutes until the liquid is evaporated and the cabbage, pancetta and vegetables is soft and glossy. Keep warm until serving. For the goose, trim the excess fat from the goose breast, score the fat and place the breast with the coriander seeds and thyme in a vacuum pouch, seal on hard vacuum and cook in a preheated water
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
60
bath at 54째C for 6 hours. Drain the goose from the bag and render the fat in a hot pan over high heat, render until the fat is crisp and golden brown. Rest the goose breast for 10 minutes, keep warm. To serve, spoon the choucroute onto a warm serving platter, carve the rested goose breast and place on top. Serve with Brussels sprouts or steamed purple sprouting broccoli and rich red wine sauce.
Madalene Bonvini-Hamel | www.britishlarder.co.uk
61