Yatra Magazine November 2018 | Buddha Air

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Issue # 34 Nov 2018

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Welcome to

PANCHASE Tourist Police for Tourist Safety

The Rich Culture of the Tamang Community f a c e b o o k . c o m / b u d d h a a i r

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@buddhaairnepal

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w w w. b u d d h a a i r. c o m

YEARS

Trusted F ly i n g

Namaste and welcome on board Buddha Air! 11 October 2018 marked the 21st anniversary of Buddha Air, making us the longest operating privately owned domestic airlines of Nepal. I would like to take this opportunity to thank our passengers, employees, business associates and well-wishers for their continued support and trust in us. I am proud of the many milestones that we have celebrated, and look forward to continuing our journey together.

A secluded and hidden gem near Pokhara is Panchase, a place known for its diverse biodiversity and ethnic culture. For those who enjoy short treks with beautiful sceneries and authentic culture, Panchase is the destination for you. Read about it on our cover story; “Panchase: Garden of Agro-biodiversity and Culture.” If you need a travel inspiration for another secluded destination, Baglung (Baglung: A New Destination for Adventure & Religious Tourism) offers a unique religious tourism with a hint of adventure. Langtang has come a long way since it experienced the devastating earthquake in 2015. Slowly but surely, communities are working together to rebuild Langtang to its former glory. Read about it in, “Langtang Trek”.

In-flight magazine Jawalakhel, Lalitpur, Nepal e-mail: yatra@buddhaair.com

From the food, to its architecture and culture, Nepal is full of eccentricities. From unique souvenirs like Lokta Papers (Unique and Eco Friendly Lokta Papers) to unique experiences like rickshaw rides (Rickshaw Rides in Touristic Areas of Kathmandu) get insights into the architecture of a typical Newari home (A Closer Insight To A Newari House) and the culture of the Tamangs (The Rich Culture of the Tamang Community). Making sure your journey in Nepal is smooth sailing are the tourist police. Read about their valiant efforts in, “Tourist Police for Tourists’ Safety.”

Check out the “Get Featured” section to see the wonderful photos captured by our flyers of their journeys with us. We want to hear from you. Please send us your photos, feedback, suggestions, experiences and testimonials – they could be featured in the next edition of Yatra.

Thank you for choosing to fly with us. I hope you have a pleasant flight.

Birendra B. Basnet Managing Director, Buddha Air

Published by: Buddha Air Pvt. Ltd., Jawalakhel, Lalitpur, Nepal

Editorial Board : lKhagendra Bahadur Basnet lSubarna Kharel lUL Shrestha lRatna Rai lD.K. Karna Copy Editor: lKabita Thapa

1 in 5 youth who belong to marginalized, minority and disabled communities are unemployed

The Social Protection Expenditure out of the total national budget is 11.3%

1 in 4 people live on less than $1 a day

1 out of 5 thirty year old people would die before their 70th birthday from any of cancer, diabetes, lung and heart diseases

40,000 people get Tuberculosis every year

3 women die due to pregnancy related causes for every 1,000 children born in Nepal

Due to malnutrition 4 out of every 10 children are too short 36% of people for their age eat less than the minimum daily 4 out of every requirement of 100 children born die calories needed for a before their 5th birthday healthy life

The Global Hunger Index is a measurement of world hunger. On the Index Nepal’s score of 21.9 is classified as “Serious” due to food security problems.

Poor nutrition is involved in more than half of all child deaths.

2 in 5 children suffer from stunting or chronic malnutrition, which is the cause of 1 in 3 deaths in children under-five

There are only 7 women for every 10 men enrolled in higher education

2 in 3 women have never told anyone about the violence they have experienced

37% of women currently aged 20-24 got married before the age of 18

Only 46 out of 100 married women participate in major decisions in their life

www.un.org.np | www.sdgsinnepal.org

Facebook: SDGsinNepal | Twitter: @SdgsNepal

For more information about the SDGs in Nepal, please follow:

48% of students complete secondary education

1 in 2 youth and adults have technical and vocational skills

97.2% of children are enrolled in primary education

1 in 20 formally educated youth have obtained vocational and skill based education

71% of youth in Nepal can read and write

Data Sources: - Government of Nepal - United Nations

6 out of 10 households have an improved toilet facility that is not shared with other households

3 in 4 households do not have access to sewage facilities

22% of the population has no toilet

More than half the population don’t use a piped water supply 32% of the population practices open defecation

THE SDGS ARE 17 GOALS COVERING ALL ISSUES TO ACHIEVE HUMAN DEVELOPMENT THE FIRST 6 SDGS ADRESS SOCIAL ISSUES

contents

Issue November 2018

c o v e r st o r y 4 0

panchase Garden of Agrobiodiversity and Culture

3 4 The Rich

Culture of the Tamang Community

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38

Dya Khaa Pasa

A Time Old Emporium

Langtang Trek

The trek provides exceptional landscape, rich Tamang culture and Himalayan flora and fauna.

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2 9 An Inevitable Cuisine!

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T r ekki n g

View from Kyanjen Ri 4350 m

Baden Peak

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Photo: Roman Shakya

Langtang The region is known for ethnic Tamang people with their rich Himalayan tradition, culture and stunning view of snow mountain ranges of Langtang and Gosaikunda l

Surendra Rana

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T r ekki n g

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he notorious 7.6 magnitude earthquake of 25 April 2015 shook the whole Himalayan nation of Nepal. The beautiful Langtang Valley was completely swept away by the dreadful avalanche that fell from Langtang Ri (7,229m). It claimed over 200 local inhabitants, including several trekkers. The avalanche transformed Langtang Valley into a deserted land. Three years on, the village has shifted and re-established itself. When we reached the area in early September, several hotels and lodges were already rebuilt. As the trekking season was coming up, the whole area was ready to welcome tourists to its traditional beauty and hospitality.

Langtang is the nearest adventure trekking destination towards the north of Kathmandu. The region is known for its ethnic Tamang

people with their rich Himalayan tradition and culture. They speak Tibeto-Burman language. Clusters of Tibetan-style villages, with stunning snow filled mountain ranges of Langtang and Gosaikunda are major highlights of the trail. From Kyanjin Ri viewpoint (4350m), you get close up panoramic views of of Langtang Lirung (7229m), Langtang II (6596m), Changbu (6251m) , Kinsung (6781m), Langtang Yubra (6048m), Dorje Lakpa, Naya Kanga (5863m) and Baden Peak (5826m). A side trip to Tsergo Ri (4990 m) which takes 7-9 hours is worth it for the panoramic

Himalayan Flowers along Langtang trail

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views of wide enfolding super white snow mountains.

There are plenty of teahouse lodges every 2 - 3 hours that provide good snacks, vegetarian food. The trail has different levels from moderate to strenuous in few places. One has to pass through cliff trails and landslides in some areas and caution has to be taken while trekking. Overall, the trek provides an exceptional landscape view passing through lush green forests, mountain villages, streams and waterfalls, Buddhist monasteries, the rich culture of the Tamang people and abundant Himalayan flora and fauna are rewarding.

Local woman preparing meal

Boys' Dream We met a group of local porters along the trail near Rimche, carrying big loads of mattresses and kitchenware about 40 kg each. Among them was Ram Tamang, a 15 year old from Grang Village, Rasuwa. He was carrying a big bamboo basket (doko) of kitchenware.

Despite the rough trail, he was walking in slippers. He had studied till grade 5, and had lost his mother at a very young age. It takes 3 days to carry loads from Syabrubesi to Kyanjin Gompa. The wage for each load was Rs. 8,000. The young Tamang looked cheerful among the group of porters, successfully transporting the goods for the first time in his life.

Pemba Chhiring Sherpa is a 15 year old from Okhaldhunga, an eastern district of Nepal. He studied until grade 5. He came to Langtang with his uncle, who is a cook at the Kyanjen Gompa Lodge. Prior to working at the lodge, he lived at Thangsep for a year.

Pemba visited home last Dashain. He often misses home, his parents and his 5 year old younger brother. Asked if he has any friends, “I don’t have many friends here, only my uncle, a porter and Nima.” On talking about his future ambition, “I want to be a good cook and run a hotel when I am grown up,” Pemba smiled optimistically.

Langtang National Park Langtang National Park lies in the central Himalayan region of Nepal.

It is shared by Nuwakot, Rasuwa and Sindupalchowk districts. Covering an area of 1,170 sq.km, the park was established in 1976 as a buffer zone by the Government of Nepal. It is the third most popular trekking destination among the protected areas of Nepal.

The park is gifted with rich and diverse flora and fauna with more than 1000 plant species. Trees like Juniper, Birch, Silver Fir, Sal, Chirpine, Nepali Alder, Oak forests, etc. are widely grown in the park.

Likewise, over 250 species of birds like Himalayan Monal, Ibisil, Snow Patridge, Wood Snipe, Himalayan Snowcock, etc. are found in the park.

There are also over species of mammals recorded in Langtang National Park like the Red Panda, Clouded Leopard, Assamese Monkey, Grey Wolf, Leopard Cat, etc.

The Trekking Journey: Monsoon Trek to Langtang Ususally, trekkers do not prefer trekking during monsoon, especially because of the gloomy weather, wet environment, leeches and slippery trails. But if one dares and is willing, trekking during the monsoon offers an

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T r ekki n g

Mule carrying cooking gas from Syabrubesi to Langtang

unforgettable experience, full of natural beauty and romanticness.

We started our trek towards Langtang at the end of the monsoon.

Three of us, Gagan Neupane of Rasuwa Treks, Chandra Lama, a trekking guide and I set off for the trek. Leaving behind chaotic Kathmandu and hours of lengthy traffic jam, our jeep diverted towards Pasang Lhamu Highway from Galchhi, branching off Prithivi Highway. Despit the deteriorated state of the hilly road, Gagan, a young tourism entrepreneur drove skillfully with great confidence.

Bravo Gagan bro!

Continuing forward, we passed through the small town of Dhunche, passing the cliff road and crossing Thulo Bharkhu, the hilly road finally headed downwards towards the famous winding road of 12 Ghumti and finally reached Syabrubesi (1530m).

Due to the landslides caused by the 2015 earthquake, the path is dreadful and used only a few trekkers. Therefore, trekkers opt for the safer way via Syabrubesi, Khangjim, Sherpagaon and Rimche. After crossing the suspension bridge at Trishuli River, expect a knee cracking steep climb of 2-3 hours, which is extremely exhausting! Thankfully, it is a two hours descending trek that takes you to Benjhang¸a resting point for tea or lunch from the available teahouse

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lodges. From Benjhang, the trail diverts right, followed by a gentle path with a gradual climb. The gentle and downward trail is an easy walk until we reached Sherpagaon (2600m) that has 4-5 lodges where trekkers can have lunch or even stay overnight. The steep trail continues for an hour then drops. At one point where there was a landslide, the passage is narrow and steep. At landslide prone areas, stone falls are frequent.

The downhill trail extends till Rimche (2495m). We reached Lama Hotel after walking for 20 minutes. The hotel is famous for an overnight stay in the Langtang trekking region. It is situated on the banks of Langtang Khola and panoramic mountain views. As it was already late afternoon when we reached Lama Hotel, we hurried through the thick jungle, climbing uphill and crossing another landslide area. We quickly moved forward and took a rest at Riverside for a much needed cup of tea.

A Korean couple was planning to stay overnight, as the husband suffered a headache. Altitude sickness is common when ascending higher trails. If one gets altitude sickness, the best way is to stay to get acclimatized or descend immediately.

It could be fatal if ignored.

We enjoyed the tea with Tim Tam and Clif Bar Chocolate that Gagan had in his backpack. We stayed the night at

Thangsek which was a 2.5 hour walk. “It’s 5 pm and we need to move fast, “ said Chandra, our guide. We accelerated, and crossed several ups and downs, and even managed to pass by some porters and suspension bridges. Was this the power of the Tim Tam and Clif Bar? We reached Ghoda Tabela shortly, but we still had an hour to reach Thangsek. The darkness engulfed us before we reached the lodge.

It was 7 pm when we reached Thangsek (3150m). We stayed at a Tibetan guest house, where an old couple where having tshyakpa for dinner. A lady from Okhaldhunga happily prepared Dal/Bhat.

It was an exhausting trek, and we had sips of jhhwai khatte (heated local wine) with the Dal/Bhatt.

Starting the morning with a cup of tea, we had to reach Kyanjen which is a gentle walk of 4.5 hours. We continued our trek along the roaring river. Thankfully, the path was easy and moderate compared to what we experienced yesterday. There were colorful blooms of flowers along the trail. Alas, while moving forward, a blanket of fog enclosed the mountains.

Soon, we reached a vast debris area created by the 2015 earthquake.

Remembering The 2015 Earthquake A devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 7.6 struck Nepal on 25 April

Lady cutting grasses into pieces to be stored for Yak

2015. The earthquake and aftershocks caused a major panic among the people of Nepal for several months. The epicenter was Barpark, Gorkha; 15 km from Kathmandu.

It was about to be noon. The village of Langtang Valley was calm and quiet in the sunny afternoon. The lodges were busy serving tourists and taking a rest after lunch. Then suddenly, a massive jolt with a massive avalanche washed away the entire village. Over 200 local residents with dozens of tourists died. The beautiful Langtang village was completely wiped off in the blink of an eye. The earthquake still haunts the survivors. For more than a year, local residents of Langtang took refuge at the yellow gumba in Kathmandu. However, it was hard for them to adjust to the hectic, warm and crowded life of Kathmandu. When they returned home, they performed rituals for the departed souls. A chhorten was erected in commemoration of the lost souls.

We visited the chhorten and observed a minute of silence to pay respects to the departed souls. It was a heart touching moment, and we were quite speechless for a while.

After lunch at Sunrise Lodge, we progressed on with our journey. After a gradual climb of 20 minutes, we reached Mundu, where two young ladies where cutting grasses into pieces. As the grass

will be unavailable during winter, the women were storing the grass for the Yaks. The ladies, Yangjing Sherpa and Lhamu Sherpa worked at the lodge as well.

A little ahead of Mundu, we met the village people who were gathering for a puja. The Lama was enchanting and performing rituals to keep the evil spirits away.

“We are lucky. The weather will be clearer tomorrow,” exclaimed Gagan. I, however was unconvinced as the weather was quite cloudy. The weather in the mountains is unpredictable. Wishing for a better weather, we persisted forward.

There was a monastery a few meters towards the other side. After a little while of ascent, we finally reached Kyanjen Gompa (3,843m). After a rigorous trek of 8 - 9 hours, we had reached our final destination. We stayed at a guest house in the evening.

To our disappointment, the sky was covered with clouds when I woke up early the next morning. Keeping our hope alive for better weather, Gagan suggested we climb up to Kyanjen Ri viewpoint. As we climbed higher, we saw the white snow peaks in one corner. We did get a clearer perspective of the snow mountains as we reached the viewpoint, but the weather hadn’t fully cleared.

From a far distance, Dorje Lakpa was half-open and so was Nayakanga, Baden Peak, etc. We captured a few photos whenever possible. We got down from the viewpoint and enjoyed tea before returning to Langtang.

The rain started pouring as we crossed Ghodetabala. On our way, we spotted a herd of Ghoral grazing nearby.

After an overnight stay at Sherpagaon, we set off towards Syabrubesi. The downhill trek from Benjhang was difficult until we reached Syabrubesi.

iti n e r a r y Day 1:

Kathmandu - Syabrubesi ( 7 hr drive)

Day 2:

Syabrubesi- Khanjim or Benjhyang- Sherpagaon (5-6 hr)

Day 3:

Sherpagaon-Rimche- Lamahotel-Thangsek (4-5 hr)

Day 4:

Thangsek-Langtang-Kyanjen Gompa (4-5 hr)

Day 5:

Explore around Kyanjen Gompa, sight trek to Kyanjin Ri

Day 6:

Return back to Lama Hotel or onward to Syabrubesi (7-8hr)

stay overnight at Lama Hotel, Rinche or Sherpagaon

Day 7:

Drive back to Kathmandu from Syabrubesi

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T o u r ist P o lice

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Tourist Police

for Tourists’ safety

For any tourists related complications: “No matter where in Nepal you are, if you find yourself in problem, dial 1144 and report your problem, we will reach out to you in the fastest time possible” - Rupa Thapa, Police Inspector, Tourist Police Nepal

T

ourist Police Nepal represents the immediate responsive body of Nepal Police. They dedicate their service for tourists in Nepal. With over 600 cases solved in the year 2017/18, the tourist police envisions to assure a safe and pleasant stay for all tourists in Nepal.

The Tourist Police was established on 26 January 1979.

In the beginning, they only had 7 people in their unit. They were known as Mobile Tourist Police (Ghumti Paryatak Prahari) and went around Kathmandu Valley and provided assistance to tourists who were reported to be in problem. After the successful campaign of Visit Nepal Year 1998, there was a huge influx of tourists in Nepal which neccessitated the need to guarantee the tourists a safe and secure travel. Since then, the number of tourist police has increased to over 200 dedicated officers, consisting of 24 units spread over 11 districts of Nepal. “We are distinguished from the Civil Police with the Tourist Police badge on our arms and shirt.” said Police Inspector Ms. Rupa Thapa.”A defining and proud moment for Tourist Police Nepal was that the Russian Tourist Police was established after being inspired by Nepal’s stance to provide a safer environment for tourists,” she added with pride,

showing a photo of the Russian Police on her table.

The primary mission of Tourist Police Nepal is preventing harassment, mistreatment and criminal activities against tourists.

From solving cases related to missing personal properties to investigating missing tourists, the Tourist Police try their best to ensure Nepal is a safer destination.

In serious cases of murders, kidnappings, or any problem that requires detailed investigations are transferred to the Civil Police.

If necessary, further support is sought from the embassies of the tourists’ respective countries in Nepal to ensure justice.

So, how can you or any tourists contact the Tourist Police and report a problem? Simple! You can directly call 1144 or seek out the nearest tourist police station. In case a tourist police station is not available, you can contact the Civil Police who will direct you to the nearest Tourist Police. The officers are fluent in English and Nepali.

They will be trained in French, Chinese, Korean and German in the future.

The future plans for Tourist Police Nepal has wider prosperity in sight to tourists. “A standard Statement of Purpose (SOP) is in process and are to be implemented in the near future,”

Success Stories

1.

A tourist who was trekking around Mustang had lost his camera. The tourist reported the missing camera to the Police Tourist headquarter in Kathmandu.

An information was sent out to the police station in the area. One of the villagers found the camera and handed it over to one of the stations. Our group went out and retrieved the camera for the tourist.

2.

A Venezuelan mother had reported that her daughter was missing in Nepal. When we checked the tourist entry report, the daughter was on a trek with her boyfriend around the Himalayan region of Rasuwa district.

She was brought back by our officials.

3.

A Chinese tourist came rushing with a report that she had forgotten her purse in the taxi. When she clarified about the area she was in, we tracked down the taxi with the help of CCTV footage.

4.

In June, a Kenyan tourist complained that her exhusband continuously tried to run away with their daughter and he was not letting her see their daughter. The ex-husband was in Nepal then. Upon calling him countlessly and convincing him, he agreed to let his ex-wife meet their daughter and later sent the daughter along with the mother to Kenya.

5.

We have received numerous complaints that taxi drivers at the airport rushed towards the tourists and forced them to take a taxi to the specified hotel. If the taxi drivers are caught red handed, the guilty is charged for harassment.

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T o u r ist P o lice said Thapa. Asking about other future plans, she clarified that the tourist police has been using iCloud server to track the tourists’ whereabouts besides the manual tourist entry records in the trekking areas. This is an efficient way to track tourists in case they are missing.

Furthermore, the silver lining plan of action is to bring awareness programs to domestic sectors of Nepal like travel agencies, Nepal Academy of Tourism & Hotel Management (NATHM) and other tourist related organizations.

While discussing the future prospects

Unless the information interrogated is insufficient, our success rate is 95% for problem solving Rupa Thapa, Inspector

and initiatives of the tourist police, the Inspector also highlighted some problems. Surveys and preventive measures for tourist related problems are yet to be done. Furthermore, there is a lack of need analysis and international standard training on how to perform with various agencies and influencers to eradicate problems before they arise.

Nevertheless, even with limited resource, the Tourist Police has found ways to get results in favour of tourists. “Unless the information interrogated insufficient, our success rate is 95% for problem solving”addressed the Inspector Thapa.

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Tourist Police Location Kathmandu Valley Tourist Police Bhrikutimandap (Central Office) Tourist Police Thamel Tourist Police Basantapur Tourist Police Pasupati Tourist Police Soyambhu Tourist Police Airport Tourist Police Mangal Bazar, Patan Tourist Police Bhaktapur Tourist Police Nagarkot No. 1 State Police Office Tourist Police Kakkarvitta, Jhapa Tourist Police Lukla, Solukhumbu No. 2 State Police Office Tourist Police Janaki Mandir, Dhanusha Tourist Police Birgunj, Parsa No. 3 State Police Office Tourist Police Sauraha, Chitwan Tourist Police Syaprubesi, Rasuwa No. 4 State Police Office Tourist Police Pokhara Baidam, Kaski Tourist Police Dhampus Kaski Tourist Police Ghandruk, Kaski Tourist Police Birethanti, Kaski Tourist Police Chame, Manang Tourist Police Jomsom, Mustang Tourist Police Ghorepani, Myagdi No. 5 State Police Office Tourist Police Belhiya Rupendehi Tourist Police Lumbini Rupandehi

B oo k R e v i e w

Afghanistan, Where God Only Comes To Weep A woman's story of courage, struggle & determination

l Krity Jha, Purser

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As a reader, I am assured that once in a lifetime, we wish to meet our favourite writer or character limned in a novel.

For me, Siba Shakib is one such author. I have always adored her writing; the way she writes her characters and the details of a particular situation, place or circumstances. Shakib is an Iranian - German filmmaker, writer and political activist. She was born and raised up in Tehran, Iran. She worked as a music journalist and radio presenter, before she published her first international bestseller: Afghanistan, Where God Only Comes To Weep. The book was published in 2002, and has since been translated into 27 different languages and has won numerous awards including the Peter Surava Pen prize.

I have always been fond of stories where women are icons, especially where they stand and fight for themselves. Here, the title of the novel articulates itself. While reading Afghanistan, Where God Only Comes To Weep, I could pair down expression to the essentials with each word and phrases passing more than ever. It firmly depicts the suffering of the people who cannot understand how actions taken in the name of God can be so implacably catastrophic. The story follows the life of ShirinGol, from her early childhood days to when she becomes a grandmother. The novel depicts the journey of her husband and children as they travel from Afghanistan to Pakistan’s refugee camp, to Iran and back to Afghanistan, in an unceasing quest for peaceful survival. They discover humanity only among the oppressors.

Shirin, true to her first name was born as a sweet and charming flower and the ninth child of her family. Her life was delightful and prosperous until the Russians invaded Afghanistan in 1979 and bombarded her village. She started to realize that her country was in real threat, as the desolation was not limited to her home. Except for her father and brothers who had joined

the resistance, Shirin-Gol and the remaining women in her family fled to Kabul. She starts encountering daily life struggles due to instability caused by indictment of all the politicians. She aspired to become a doctor, but this aspiration was unfulfilled.

Shirin is forced to marry Morad at an early age to pay off her brother’s gambling debt. Despite all the adversities and dreadful circumstances, she always prioritized education for her children so that they could have a better life than hers.

Like most of the Afghan families, Shirin’s family also suffered under the Taliban regime; where women were not allowed to work and held captive behind the walls of a house. Shirin Gol’s situations are just as weak as you can imagine. Morad, the only man she relied on became addicted Afghanistan, Where God Only to opium and she Comes To Weep could not stop it.

Author: Siba Shakib She lured to sell her Publisher: Century Publications young daughter and Price: Rs. 920 (approx) had to negotiate with her dignity and conscience to sell her body in exchange for food and money, just to ensure that her children do not die from hunger. She endures and never gives up hope in the world, where ethics are an anomaly in which social exertion is determined by murder, rape, humiliation, poverty, disease and despair.

In this novel, you find the gallantry of a woman despite hostile conditions, finding the civilized values of love, caring, sharing and happiness; when one is not even sure of seeing tomorrow’s dawn, but with a smile on the face, courage in the heart, one can conquer any exceptions.

This novel is a journey of 311 pages, of separation and reunions, followed by a lot of heartbreak and grievous events.

One can find many Shirin-Gol in the streets of Afghanistan.

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T H I NG S T O D O

Rickshaw Rides

in Touristic Areas of Kathmandu

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A

review about rickshaw rides in Kathmandu from TripAdvisor quotes,"I have felt Kathmandu heaps more safer in rickshaw rides when compared to cities like Manila, Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok.” Another quote, "I have used Rickshaws many times on visits to Nepal and never had any major problems – Certainly there shouldn’t be any issues in using them to go sightseeing.

Meanwhile prices do vary a lot, but once the fare has been agreed then other than a tip (If you are happy with the driver) there shouldn’t be any issues about payment” If you are a wanderer around Thamel and Basantapur, you have most definitely seen or even rode on the fancy decorated cycles known as rickshaws. The colourful cycles, embedded with extra seats at the back with curved roofs at comfortable leaning surface carry

a maximum of 3 people for rides depending on the strength of the driver. On a off day, you probably see them parking on roadsides, while the drivers chill with friends, smoking or even sleep with their faces towards the sun. But if you have been to the Thamel, Basantapur, Bangemuda and around festivals during October to mid December, you have seen the decorated rickshaws on small roads, busy carrying passengers to and fro.

A curiosity to know more about the rides, fares, types led me to interview a kind rickshaw driver in the premises of Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Mr. Saran Thapa Magar has been in this profession since the late 1984. According to him, the rickshaw rides are available in the parts of Basantapur, Thamel, Bangemuda and Kaldhara. They carry both Nepali and foreigners.

“Rickshaw fares vary from Nepalis to foreigners to some extent” he said. I put forward my query regarding the types of rides he offers and he replied “We do rickshaw tours or just pick-up and drop-offs depending on the choice of the passenger”. Rickshaw tours are a short sightseeing of the passenger-chosen area that includes briefing of the places they are in, the monuments and historical or religious shrines as they pass by. If you’re a foreigner and would like to take a tour of Thamel and the areas nearby without getting lost, take a rickshaw tour through traditional local alleys and Ason area. You pass through various Buddhist shrines, temples, local vegetable markets and traditional wooden and mud houses.

On the other hand, casual pick-up and drop-off include a onetime transaction i.e. drop off at the destination. The ride fare holds no specific price quotation.

Thus, the drivers themselves charge it depending on the distance. According to Thapa, the agreed charge for rickshaw tour is Rs. 250-300 inside Thamel and pickup and drop off depend on the agreed price between passenger and driver. “The first price that we say from Thamel to Basantapur (Approx 1.6 km) or vice versa is Rs. 200 for foreigners” he claimed. This route includes traditional alleys of the place with Hindu and Buddhist monuments on both sides, old yet colorful thatched roof houses, locals covered in their ethnic jewels and unstoppable welcoming smile.

Rickshaw drivers in the premises agreed that price inflation in daily goods have had a major effect in their business. “Passengers bargain over Rs. 20 -30 but don’t understand that even we are compelled to raise the fares due to increasing rise in price of daily goods” one of them shrugged from behind. Not only the price inflation, riders claim the increasing inclination of the generation towards bikes and cars and taxis have also hampered their business. “The rides were around Rs. 10 -15 back then, yet it was

sufficient. Now even if we earn Rs. 500 a day, it still is insufficient for living” Things to remember: No safety related mishaps have been noted till date, but it is always best to keep things you carry tight to yourself.

While travelling solo, if you have any doubt regarding the driver or ride

fare, it is best to consult a local or police personnel nearby or not take the ride at all.

The prices noted above are from few rickshaw drivers. You can bargain for discount if not satisfied.

The fares vary from off season to tourist season that starts from October to Mid December.

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made i n n epal

Unique and Eco-friendly

Lokta Papers

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Lokta papers or Nepali Kagaz once solely used by the government for official uses is gaining popularity, and used in many ways. The popularity of these papers soared after the local manufacturers became aware of the different varieties of products they can make from these strong papers.

From tiny greeting cards and tea coasters to huge lamps and clocks, there is an escalating demand for lokta paper products in the market. Due to the papers’ durability and eco-friendly nature, environmentally conscious people have started substituting non-recyclable paper made products, plastic and glass products with lokta made products. Nicole Marquez, a tourist from Nicaragua who was buying a lokta paper lampshade along with several small sized bags from Mahaguthi,

a handicraft store in Kathmandu stated, “I love these lokta made products. Not only are these products durable, beautiful and unique, but also contribute positively to the environment. The best thing about them is they are recyclable. In a world where we are struggling to save our environment, I would rather pay more for products and services that come from companies who are committed to positive social and environmental impact,� she added.

The markets for these papers have increased among businesses

too. Restaurants around Thamel and Basantapur flaunt lokta made wall clocks and lamps among many other products to give their place a local, Nepali ambiance.

Similarly, offices have started using lokta made desk accessories like files, file holders and pen holders.

How Are Lokta Papers Made?

Lokta papers can be preserved for a very long time period and unlike other papers they are non-perishable in the water, free from germs and highly resistant to insects. These papers are easy to dye

18 Photo: YetiCrafts

Threat to the Lokta Industry

and entirely hand-made. Additionally, these papers are highly recyclable.

Lokta papers are made of lokta, botanically known as Daphne Bhoula.

Lokta is an indigenous plant of Nepal found at high altitudes. The bark of the Lokta has been used as raw materials for making these papers since ages. The best quality lokta sticks usually grow and exists at an attitude between 6000 to 10000 feet in the Himalayan forest of Nepal’s highlands.

Lokta plant is harvested by cutting its stem at ground level without destroying the main root.

Lokta regenerates to maturity again within 4 to 5 years after being cut.

The harvesting process actually helps the forest continue to grow because if the lokta is allowed to continue to grow past maturity, it would dry up and begin to decay, preventing

Photo: PoshMark

any new growth. Thus, by plucking lokta sticks out, no harm is done to the fragile forest ecology. The hand production of lokta paper gives a source of income to paper crafting families and village communities in Nepal.

Lokta making process is simple and entirely handmade. The process starts by cleaning the bark of the lokta with a sharp knife and chopping it into small pieces. These small pieces are then soaked in plain water for 5-6 hours. The pieces are then cooked in a soaking solution of hot water and soda for 1-2 hours and washed in cold water. Finally, the remnants are hammered and converted into pulp. The pulp is then poured into wooden frames for drying into sheets of paper.

Today, lokta paper ranks as one of Nepal’s top handicraft exports.

After the paper found its way into the international market during the early 1990s, lokta businesses have escalated. While other handicrafts like pashmina and jewellery nosedived, handmade paper sales grew by over 300%. With the increase in socially conscious individuals and businesses, it seems like the eco-friendly and robust lokta paper is here to stay and flourish.

Sunil Shrestha, CEO of Shubham Handicrafts asserts that Lokta papers have a great future since they are the strongest papers in the world. However, even the strongest papers are now facing an existential threat because of fake lookalikes lokta papers made with Nepali broom grass (Thysanolaena Maxima). “Though the papers made with the broom grass look like Lokta, they are not as durable. Since many industries are now using broom grass and selling it off as lokta papers, a bad impression has been created. Now because of these few industries, many of our consumers have started questioning the quality of Lokta papers," states Shrestha.

Lokta has a huge demand in the foreign market After the paper found its way into the international market during the early 1990s, lokta businesses have escalated. Sunil established his business in 2006 with his wife Meena Kumari Shrestha. During his interview, Shrestha stated that all of his goods are exported. He claims that among the various countries he exports to, his biggest consumers are from the UK and USA and his most popular product are diaries bound by original handmade leathers. When he first started, he and his wife used to produce all the good by themselves. Now, they manage the factory with 13 other people.

Lokta entrepreneurs today employ thousands of local employees just for lokta collection. Additionally, with the rising demand, the lokta industries’ needs for local workforces have significantly increased. This industry has not only increased the nations’ revenue but also positively contributed to the society and the environment of the country.

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P a r a g lidi n g

Masters of the Sky Nepal’s Paraglding Team

P

aragliding glorifies the enchanting beauty of the mountains and scenic nature from the top.

Paragliding in Pokhara started almost around two and a half decades ago. Paragliding, in simple terms, means to glide in the air before the touchdown on land. There is a unique thrill in jumping off the hill and breathing in the nature around as you see the snow covered mountain ranges. Pokhara is the most prioritized destination for domestic and international tourists for paragliding for the past two decades. It has been a strength to boosting tourism in Pokhara.

It barely came to anyone’s prediction that paragliding would be a pride of the nation. In the 18th Asian Games held in Indonesia from 18 August 2018 to 2 September 2018, Nepal won the silver medal in the paragliding sport competition, that too at a time when paragliding was included in the games for the first time in 2018. After winning no medals until the eleventh day of the games, this win was a saviour to Nepal.

Nepal had competed in the Cross Country and Accuracy aspects of paragliding. A maximum number of games in the Asian Cup was held in Jakarta, Indonesia. Paragliding was held in Gunung Mas,

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Puncak. This sport has now marked a new history. This is the second silver medal in the Asian Cup for Nepal. In the 1998 Bangkok Asian Cup, Sabita Rajbhandari had achieved the first silver medal for Nepal. It was a satisfactory performance for Nepal in “Accuracy” and the gliders were neck and neck with the winners in “Cross Country.” Nepal gave an unforgettable performance on the last day. While competing in Task 5, Nepali gliders had the best performance. 3 of the 4 gliders successfully completed the overall task and reached the goal. If the fourth glider too had completed the task, the Nepali team would have upgraded their score above Japan and won the gold medal. The Nepali paragliding team consisted of Bijaya Gautam, Bishal Thapa, Yukesh Gurung and Sushil Gurung under the leadership of Bimal Adhikari. Among the 4 team members, 17 year old Yukesh was the youngest.

On the final day, the team managed to score 2700, whereas the Japanese team who led the leader board on the previous day had only managed to score 2057 on the last day. On the last day, the Japanese team only managed to complete 2 tasks.

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P a r a g lidi n g

On the 5th level competition Japan led the scoreboard with a score of 9314, while Nepal occupied the second place with a score of 8567. Nepal’s exceptional performance on the last day had expectations of turning the score around.

But with a score of just 27, Japan still led the competition. Thus, the final score after all the levels was; Japan with 11,391 and Nepal with 11,364 winning the gold and silver medals respectively.

The coach of Nepali Team Mr. Yogesh Bhattarai seemed to be slightly disappointed for not being able to win the gold medal. He expressed that he had a vision to change the Nepali sports history in the Asian Games. However, winning the silver medal in the 2018 Asian Games

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Pokhara is the most prioritized destination for domestic and international tourists for paragliding for the past two decades. It has been a strength to boosting tourism in Pokhara

held no less value to them.

The Nepali paragliding team’s participation in the Asian Games was finalized around February 2018. Thus, for a period of 6 months, the team worked their best and returned home with the medal from the finals. The Nepali paragliding team had participated with 8 members in 6 events at the Asian Games. The female paragliders were Prativa Bhujel, Trisha Shrestha Bomjan, and Sabita Tamang. They scored the sixth position among 10 groups in Women’s Team for “Cross Country”. If analyzed in terms of financial grounds, paragliding requires the most investment because of the glider, harness, parachute, GPS, radio set, barometer, electronic compass,

The First Paragliding Company in Nepal Paragliding in Pokhara started in 1996 AD. A local from Pokhara, Biru Bomjan partnered with a British pilot, Adam Charles Hills and established a paragliding company called “Sunrise Paragliding Company”. This is the company that started bringing foreign pilots for paragliding. Hills is considered to be an influential person to root for the culture of paragliding in Nepal. He initially came as a trekker to Annapurna Base Camp. As soon as he saw the possibility of paragliding from Sarangkot, he initiated the idea into a business.

Even with the commencement of paragliding, safety was still an issue to be considered. Initially, only people who came to trek the Annapurna Circuit would try their hands at paragliding. There were only 4 paragliding companies till 2007, but since there was a boom in the business, more companies cropped up from 2010 onwards. Till date, there are around 5 dozen paragliding companies in active operation. In peak seasons, these companies operate up to 500 flights. Paragliding can also be done in Tarepani and Mandra Dhunga.

The Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) has provided around 300 temporary licensed pilots for paragliding. Only 25 pilots are fully licensed. Compared to previous years, the dependence on foreign pilots has decreased.

Besides Pokhara, the other authorized paragliding destinations in Nepal are Dharan, Syangja, Tanahu, Bandipur, Palpa, Kathmandu, Surkhet and Lalitpur. Various other places have schools established to train paragliders.

The 13th South Asian Games, slated to be held in 2019 is said to be hosted by Nepal. With Nepal’s recommendation, the South Asian Games have decided to include paragliding in the competition for the first time. The perception for paragliding as an adventure sport had yet to be explored. Even today, people perceive it merely as a thrill seeking adventure. This notion will hopefully change in the coming years, as paragliding is gaining a pedestal as an adventure sport, evidenced by the Nepali paragliders’ medal winning prowess.

gloves, helmet, etc. The cost sums up to around 0.7 million rupees. On the aspects of “Cross Country” and “Accuracy” for both men’s and women’s competition, around 1.4 million rupees was spent. While it was impossible for the country to spend such a huge amount, the enthusiasm to participate in the first ever paragliding competition encouraged the participating team to cover their own cost. The courage shown by the team to represent their country with pride and to bear the cost is truly remarkable.

The very first inclusion of paragliding in the Asian Games with an overwhelming result was astonishing to many. If you turn through the pages of the history of the Asian Games, Nepal has claimed medals in various other sports. Before their participation in the Asian Games, Nepal had participated in the Pre-World Cup Competition held in China. After winning the bronze medal, the Nepali paragliding team represented the nation in the Asian Cup. The medal in China wasn’t just the initiator for the Nepali team in the Asian Cup, it also made them medal winners. On the basis of the previous achievements, National Sports Council of Nepal started having hopes for medals in paragliding.

Nepal has its own history with paragliding. The paragliding performance of the Nepal Army in the opening of 1999 South Asian Games left everyone dumbfounded. 5 years later, when Pakistan hosted the South Asian Games in Islamabad, the performance of the Nepal Army was also commended.

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E M P L OY E E p r o file

Growing Old With Buddha Air Journey of Sr. Officer Mr. Shrawan Khawas in Buddha Air

“B

uddha Air has proven to be a life-changing platform for me” said Mr. Shrawan Lal Khawas with great pride. Khawas, is the current Senior Officer for Receipt and Dispatch Department in the main store/hanger of Buddha Air. His journey in Buddha Air is almost the same age as the airlines itself. “20 years ago, a job vacancy in Buddha Air was announced in my village Morang-8, Dangihat. It was for the post of a helper. At that time, coming to the capital and being employed here was considered very reputable. Thus, I applied for the post and got selected.” Buddha Air just had 2 Beechcraft

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when Mr. Khawas entered as a ground level helper with 3 others on 1 October 1998. A high school graduate from Shree Kaali Madhyamik Vidhyalaya, he explains that his tasks in the helper level were grueling at times. The helper crew was responsible to maintain hygiene inside and outside of the aircraft. “There were times when there were lots of bookings and the aircraft did more flights than usual. Meanwhile, maintaining cleanliness after each flight used to be a nightmare for each one of us. We skipped meals and ran after flights. And when there were less bookings, we played around and enjoyed the day

Mr. Khawas proudly claims that the consistent mentorship from the supervisors, colleagues and more importantly the open learning work environment that Buddha Air provides have been the primary pioneering factor in his work life.

His 7 years of devotion to the company as Assistant was rewarded with promotion to Junior Officer.

“Here” he continued “I specialized in the subunits of the store namely; Purchase, Store, Receipt & Dispatch.

These are the divisions of the technical tools that are imported internationally for aircraft supervision and maintenance. Thus, we have very crucial details to learn about in here”.

Khawas believes that, his learning phase as a Junior Officer was the most integral 3 years in his journey.

“I have been recently signed as the Senior Officer from January 2018.

Now I hold the full responsibility of the Receipt and Dispatch Department inside the hangar premises of Buddha Air. The company never fails to reward the deserving and that is the most motivating factor for us”.

“I was recently sent to Singapore for a 5 days training based on ‘Handling of Hazardous Goods’.

The training included handling and precaution measures for hazardous goods like fire, bottle wrapping,

packaging etc. Singapore is what I call heaven. For me, it was an astounding experience to be there alive. Every corner of the country radiates a happiness vibration. Besides training sessions, we managed to tour around Marina Bay, Universal Studios, Singapore Zoo and Merlion Park. Had I not been in Buddha Air, I don’t see myself ever being to such country.”

Khawas’s opinion on company’s growth: “I am Buddha Air years old” Khawas laughed. From the beginning to present day scenario, I have seen the company grow from 2 Beechcrafts to 11 aircrafts (expanding the fleet to include ATR aircrafts) to being recognized as the most preferred domestic airlines. From working manually to everything now being computerized, from few flights a day to the airline that has the maximum number of flights in a day, from being a domestic to becoming an international airline, it has been an absolute pleasure witnessing the growth of Buddha Air. On the Bucket List: I have heard a lot about Pokhara but never been there. This year, I have made it that I shall travel to Pokhara with my 2 children and wife.

like we were on a vacation.” he laughed.

“I had not flown in an aircraft before joining Buddha Air. My first flight was on a test flight. I still remember how the whole of my intestines danced to the height as the plane took off and landed. I was chanting prayers and sticking myself to the seat without moving an inch. I thought that would distract the pilots. I had nausea vomiting after we landed. I was so thankful I survived” As years passed, with the company’s expansion, more aircrafts were added and a store for proper management of the aircraft tools was necessary. After 10 years as the trusted and hardworking helper, Mr. Khawas was then promoted to Assistant Level. Respecting the post, he was then handed over the full responsibility for maintaining records and supplying the requisitions from the

The perk of working in Buddha Air has been the wider scope it provides to its employees for learning aircraft engineers as a store supervisor. It was a fairly challenging task as the record keeping then, was not computerized and needed to be done manually. A slight mistake or misplacing one little piece of paper made huge difference in effectiveness of technicians' work.

“The perk of working in Buddha Air has been the wider scope it provides to its employees for learning. The company values its employees and rewards their work at each level. After my promotion to Junior Officer, the company sent me and my team to Thailand for a 14 days store keeping training in Bangkok, Thailand.

The training still holds utmost value in our work. This was my first international travel. Thus, it was a fun learning process with travel and tour. Places like James Bond Island, Pattaya and Phuket were my favourite.” He exclaimed while his eyes sparked with love for his work.

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desti n ati o n

Panchakot Dham

B aglung

A New Destination for Adventure & Religious Tourism “The gladdest moment in human life, me thinks, is a departure into unknown lands” – Sir Richard Burton.

I

t's always exciting to experience new places and cultures. As Nepalis, we are reminded daily of our rich natural potential. However, some parts are still unexplored and initiatives yet to be undertaken. We wanted to explore the unexplored, which led us to Baglung.

Upasana Kasaju

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Sudeep Bdr Singh

Naturally Nepal Tourism in Nepal is synonymous to Pokhara.

Almost everyone who has visited Nepal ends up in Pokhara, or are asked, "Have you been to Pokhara?" It's believed that 50% of tourists who

come to Nepal visit Pokhara. This time, we ventured out 73 km away from Pokhara to Baglung. Our eyes were set on Balewa, where the local airport had just come into operation after 28 years. We wanted to experience the untouched beauty and explore the hidden tourism treasure in Baglung.

Conventionally, the first stop was Pokhara. We landed at the airport at 8:15 am. The sky was blue and the sun was out; for a place shrouded with rain for half the year. The majestic Mt. Machhapuchchhre (Fishtail) loomed in front of us as if it welcomed us to Pokhara.

The view was breathtaking - Bridget Asher rightly stated, "This mountain, the arched back of the earth risen before us, it made me feel humble, like a beggar, just lucky to be here at all, even briefly.” We gathered our bags and hit the Pokhara-Baglung highway. Along the way, we passed Sarangkot - famous for adventure activities like paragliding, zip flying, etc but mostly as a mountain viewpoint. On the right, we passed the temple

Photo Courtesy: Surya Khatri

Balewa Airport, Baglung

of Bindabasini - where newlyweds come for blessings for their happy and prosperous life. From the busy airport road, the Pokhara-Baglung highway nudges the hectic urban sprawl, and the highway started becoming narrower. The Seti River flowed next to us for half an hour. Mt. Machhapuchchhre never left our view. Every hill we passed, there was a temple like Maalika Temple on the top, that gave each hill its identity.

Finally, we reached Nayapul where we stopped for a delightful breakfast. The start of the Annapurna Circuit trek, Nayapul is lined with shops catering to trekkers.

Baglung Bazaar Baglung Bazaar is the largest and oldest settlement of the Dhaulagiri zone. It's a 45-minute drive from Nayapul.

It is also the district headquarter, and the settlement seemed cramped. It was not surprising to see a lack of tourists around the bazaar. Unlike Pokhara, Baglung has not been exposed to the global tourism market, therefore does not have a need for fancy restaurants and accommodations.

Until now, Baglung Bazaar has grown organically to meet the demand of the locals and those who come here for business. The shocking fact is that even though the bazaar is unplanned, the land value is comparable to Kathmandu's! The small village of Bhakunde is an hour's drive from Baglung. It is inhabited by the Magar community and offers an authentic cultural touch and has homestay facilities as well.

Panchakot Dham In the evening, while talking with the Kalika Temple hotel manager at Baglung, he suggested we visit Panchakot Dham. Located on a hill 13 km uphill from Baglung Bazaar, Panchakot Dham offers fascinating views of the hill ridges and Dhaulagiri mountain. There is also a Kali Temple near the dham. Panchakot Dham could be a catalyst to attract Nepali and Indian pilgrims, especially those who travel to Muktinath. A saint, known as Muktinath Baba, a prominent figure in Nepal and South India, is collecting funds and putting in an effort to develop and promote Panchakot Dham. He is also building a Big Bell, 108 kilos Kalashadding value to Panchkot; and is creating a link between Panchakot Dham and Muktinath.

Kalika Temple Located 5.5 km from the bazaar is the Kalika Temple.

The temple's ambience gave us the feeling of serenity and tranquility. The temple was built by Pratap Narayan and was renovated in the 1990s. It sits deep in the dense forest on the bank of the Kali Gandaki River. People flock to Kalika Temple hoping to fulfill their wishes. Marriages are also performed inside the temple, and couples believe their married life will be blessed with happiness.

It's believed that if a person worships and sacrifices animals at the temple, then their wishes are fulfilled.

The temple supports the socio-economic development of the local area as well. “We were just wondering how attractive the location would be to religious tourists if a cable car was introduced ÂŹbetween Kalika Temple and Panchakot Dhamâ€?.

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desti n ati o n

Adventure sports which could be introduced in Balewa area

Balewa Airport Located 19 km away from the bazaar is Balewa Airport. It takes about 30 minutes to reach due to the poor road. The airport was bare bones, with no terminal building or proper signs - perpetuating the "out of operation for 28 years" facade. After the construction of the Pokhara-Baglung highway, it was affordable for people to travel by road, reducing air volume and making Balewa Airport economically defunct.

On our way back, we took a detour to the famous suspension bridge in Kushma. The road there was an experience like no other - it felt like we were riding in a forest with no path, but a stone bursting river bed. This path led to the tallest and longest suspension bridge in Nepal. It was a thrilling walk on the bridge. It was so high that the river looked like a stream and there were eagles flying below it! It was astonishing to see a bike zooming through the bridge at a speed of 60 km per hour.

Balewa can play a role in the growth of the tourism sector in Baglung. With the construction of the regional international airport in Pokhara, we could see a shift of adventure tourism from Pokhara to Baglung. Due to safety concerns, the government could limit the adventure sports from Sarangkot and a shift to Baglung is a possibility. Air sports like microlight flight, zip flying, paragliding and bungee jumping have potential in

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Baglung. The influx of tourists would create forward and backward linkages, sensitizing the economic dynamic of rural settings, bringing Baglung to the global tourism market.

The Return While returning from Baglung, we realized how true the following quote by Robin Sharma was, "Change is hard at first, messy in the middle and gorgeous at the end.” We had experienced the quote, the memories still intoxicating. The shaky and mysterious roads led to the mesmerizing beauty of Baglung.

After a delicious Nepali lunch, we returned to Pokhara, eager to see Mt. Machhapuchhare again, but alas, this time, the clouds hid its glory. However, Pokhara greeted us with its warmth, perfect weather to take a dive and swim our travel grimes away. Then, it was time for bar hopping to try some exquisite drinks and cuisine, ranging from Belgian beer and local raksi to traditional and western food. The bubbling energy created a unique nightlife experience which is still haunting our memories.

Kasaju is the Analyst and Singh is the Team Lead for Gandaki Provinence “Gateway to Prosperity” G2P tourism project, supported by CSR of Buddha Air Pvt. Ltd., at VRock & Company

F OO D

An Inevitable Cuisine!

A

restaurant, situated in the heart of Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Saigon Pho is a paradise found for Vietnamese Cuisine in Nepal. It can be set as a flavored getaway for foreign cuisine enthusiasts. Among the delightful cuisine that the venue serves, the taste of Chicken Pho and Grilled Chicken Salad is what lured my taste buds. The perfect combination of the ingredients and the spices hails the freshness in the served food.

Grilled Chicken Salad Be it just food or the plate setting, the entire combination never fails to impress. Grilled Chicken Salad is rated as one of the top 10 must try foods in Nepal by Tibet Vista. A perfectly cooked boneless and skinless chicken breasts with the vermicelli, fresh lime juice, fish sauce, Boston lettuce, bean sprouts, pepper and vegetable oil, Grilled Chicken Salad is rich in taste and as healthy as it sounds. It can be best served as dessert with fresh mint juice. The taste is refreshing and a treat to the first timers.

It wouldn’t be overestimating if I say, Grilled Chicken Salad is one of the best foods I have had in a long time”- Reviewed a Nepali customer who tasted the delight for the first time.

However, the ideal blend of sweet and sour flavor is best suited foodies who look for both spices and sweetness in their plate.

Chicken Pho A Vietnamese dish nobody can resist. Chicken Pho is the, clear soup is made with fresh herbs, fish sauce and chilly.

A unique combination of chicken garlic onion and thin rice noodles, it is a light and healthy food in Vietnamese cuisine.

Served with fresh bean sprouts, the artistic design adds to the ingredients of the dish Customer’s Verdict: “I especially recommend their Chicken Pho, a highly satisfying chicken noodle soup and the barbecued spare ribs, which are melt in the mouth delicious.”- Source/TripAdvisor.

“It is my favorite dish so far at Saigon Pho. Though the original look might give a plain image at first, it has a pleasant taste when eaten with peanut or hot sauce.” – Source/ Customer For people who prefer spicy food, you might love the pho with hot sauce presented with the dish or the chilly and vinegar pickle on the table. It is finger licking delicious. Meanwhile for the one’s who go for non spicy food, the original look with peanut sauce would best suit your personality Concluding Review I love the artistic design and serene taste of the Chicken Pho and Grilled Chicken Salad. I can come here anytime for relaxation and try out the flavorful dishes to make my day.

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R E S OR T

A Walk in the Luxury Capsule

S

prawling through the rough and tough roads of Bhairahawa, lies a secret garden of heaven; Tiger Palace Resort. The resort is a blend of nature and modern architecture. The amazing greenery and peace will make you forget the hot weather and you’ll dwell in the city’s beauty.

The remote abode, secluded from the urban hassle is spread across 22 acres of land. The integrated resort is the largest FDI investment with a whopping $52 million investment.

“The resort is evolving as an entertainment and a luxury hub for the present and coming generations,” said Mr. Prabhakar Khadka, Director of Marketing and Communications.

A tour with Mr. Prabhakar around the property was well

Brett Model, General Manager

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Managers recommendation 2 Nights stay Day 1: After arriving at the resort, have lunch at Ramro Chowk. Beat the heat in the swimming pool, enjoy the spa, steam and sauna. Have dinner at Cavana Avenue.

If you have kids, Cub’s Kingdom is the place to be. You can also enjoy kid’s cooking classes. Our pastry chef Amid, welcomes all kinds of custom-made foods and pastries. So, you’re open to designing your food.

Day 2: On your second day, Palpa is a great place to go.

In the evening, you can go to the water park or beer factories.

Day 3: On the third day, go for a tour of Buddha’s birthplace in Lumbini or go for a tour of Chitwan. Either destination is convenient as the resort is a 30 minutes drive to Lumbini and about a 1.5 hours drive to Chitwan National Park.

Phone: 071-512000, Website: www.tigerpalace.com

worthwhile. He showed us around the deluxe rooms, executive suites and villas which have direct pool access from the luxurious private balcony. The resort boasts of the longest swimming pool in Nepal, a movie theatre, gym, spa, basketball court, a world class casino for foreigner, an arcade and a cub’s kingdom for children’s entertainment.

The General Manager of this piece of luxurious heaven is Mr. Brett Model. With over 10 years of experience in the hospitality business Mr. Brett led the hotel operations division at the first and largest casino resort in Vietnam, as part of the opening team with MGM Grand.

Mr. Brett sees great opportunities and some challenges for the operation of the resort. When I put forward my query about the remoteness of the resort, his response was, “Remote is just relative to how you see it. We are remote to the country, but not to the state that’s larger than many countries in the world, i.e. Uttar Pradesh which has 205 million people. Prior to the completion of the international airport, we are heavily reliant on the border traffic for our casino. It will eventually evolve to be more Asia-centric after the completion of the airport. But it’s not

Top 3 most activities to do when you are at the resort l Swim in the largest swimming pool in the nation l Try the best cuisines in the finest restaurants: Cavana & Ramro Chowk l For foreigners: Play in the World Class Casino l For Nationals: Tour around the Immediate World heritage sites Lumbini and Chitwan National Park, day tour to Palpa, Ostrich Farm, Beer Brewery.

just for casino goers. The resort is a 50-50 spilt between Nepalis and foreigners.”

The biggest hurdle for the resort is the ever-constructing road.

Mr. Brett added to this dilemma, “The highway if you have seen it, is one of the worst roads I have ever been on in my life. The airport is a close second. The completion of the international airport in Bhairahawa was targeted last month, but looking at the pace of road construction, we are doubtful about the state of the airport now. The completion of the airport is not only prospers to our business, but also upgrades the image of Nepal which currently has one international airport. It’s high time the government puts extra attention in upgrading the general infrastructures of the nation.”

The major attraction of Tiger Palace Resort as of now, is the casino, which is the largest casino in South Asia. “The management has been constantly working on its toes to add more to the entertainment and attractions of the resort apart from the casino business. In the past 7 months, there’s been dramatic changes in the food course, cocktails and mocktails and general well being of the building itself. We’ve hosted the largest pool party in the recent months, 8 destination weddings, MICE’s events and will continue to add more of the events in the future. With the continuation of such events and consideration of occupancy, we plan to expand our business by adding 200 more rooms with extra facilities for our beloved customers,” added Mr. Brett. On being asked the uniqueness of the resort, he adds, “Tiger Palace Resort is the first resort to initiate the first ever Kid’s Cooking classes with the in-house chefs, which is included in room cost.”

What makes a hotel stand out is its Product and People. On a first visit to Tiger Palace, one can most definitely say it offers the best facilitated product and people than other hotels. The ‘Product’ side of the resort has the nicest rooms, best food and best pool. “The ‘People’ side offers the best service staff potentially in the overall country. We have hired people who have worked abroad in the hospitality industry and decided to move back to our middle level management. These are staffs who’ve worked in Dubai, Oman, Maldives, Sri Lanka, India. All these staffs and the ground level staffs receive separate in-house trainings with respect to the hotel norms and values,” confirmed Mr. Brett.

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ARCHITECTURE

A Closer Insight to a

Newari House l Pramita Shrestha

U

ntouched by the temptations of the Western culture, the lifestyle of the Newars, the oldest inhabitants of Kathmandu Valley, has remained relatively similar over the years. The cultural and religious convictions the Newari community abides by, can be substantiated by their outlook on architecture. Even today, the medieval aura is upheld by the Pati-Pauwas’, tiered pagoda style temples, chowks and bahals and rectangular houses with tiled roofs seen in the major cities of the valley.

The Newari settlement, formed of dense population, share similar lifestyles and building methods. The Newari

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houses are narrow, rectangular shaped, made of exposed brick with finely detailed wooden carvings and tiled roof which ooze history and antiquity.

Resided by a dense population, these houses are built following the perimeter of a courtyard, known as ‘Chowk’.

Everyone living in and around the similar chowk, take it as their gathering point for all social activities or just casual meetings. The cluster of these houses is apparently possible for the uniformity in their design.

These days with the changing lifestyles, there is a change in spatial usage in the houses, but the fundamental space usage custom is the same. A spine wall, ‘Du Angha’ divides

the front of the house to the ground floor room called ‘Chiddi’ into two spaces. The façade would most probably have a shop or a workshop whereas, the latter space would have a store room or a stable alongside the staircase in the corner. The other floors were used for living and the attic was used as kitchen and dining area or storerooms.

The best kept secrets lie in the attic of Newari houses traditionally called ‘Baigah’ or ‘Buigal’. A small wooden staircase leads to the trap door, two heavy planks locked by chains, that closes off the stairway to the attic. Some use the attic as kitchen, while some as storerooms or place of worship where no one except the head of the family

is allowed. The houses in the medieval era were built attached to one another, identical to each other to host feasts.

Each attic attached to one another and were connected by doors. The doors are kept open at the same time to form a long passage to hold a communal feast.

However, this design has seen changes due to the growing number of party and feast venues.

Fusion is evitable in every array of things that people come in contact with.

The Newari houses are no exception to this. These days, houses are built with the innovative fusion of modern and traditional construction methods, i.e. a structural frame with concrete column and beams, encircled with thick walls, made with mud mortar. The mud mortar construction keeps the house relatively cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

There are contemporary Newar houses that have adapted traditional methods and modern designs, without compromising their heritage value.

There are contemporary Newar houses that have adapted traditional methods and modern designs, without compromising their heritage value Comparatively, the older buildings have smaller squared windows with lintels. The size of the windows may vary depending upon the use of the rooms. A prominent feature of the older buildings is the ‘San Jhya’ a richly decorated window that covers the façade, with seating framed within it.

In recent construction, the concept of ‘San Jhya’ has been extended to each floor, so that there are less brick walls on the facade of the houses, making the house appear more attractive.

The functional planning of the Newar houses is a mix of residential and commercial purposes. Traditionally, these were single family houses with shops or workshops on the ground floor, but with the saturation of building plots and expensive costs, the houses host more than one family today. The major modifications in the Newari house consists of updated hygienic facilities such as running water and toilets, replacement of traditional timber floor with concrete slabs, mud façade with cemented facade.

The devastating Nepal earthquake in 2015 caused huge loss of lives and properties. Several traditional buildings and monuments, world renowned for indigenous Newari architecture in Kathmandu Valley literally collapsed to the ground. Owing to the loyalty and devotion the Newars hold for their culture, the rich Newari architecture and monuments are on the verge of rebirth; taller and stronger than before, which can stand strong for generations.

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C U LT U R E

The Rich Culture of the Tamang Community An insight into the rituals and festivals of the Tamangs

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I

f you see a woman adorned in flat round designer gold earring, a flower in her hair, necklace made of coins, traditional skirt and blouse of local fabric, then she is a Tamang. Dhungri, Fuli, Bulaki, Jantar and Red Muga are unique ornaments that highlight the beauty of women representing the Tamang community. Nepal is a multicultural country that has a myriad of representations within each community, distinguished by their traditional attire, customs and cultures.

Parshuram Tamang, a scholar of the Tamang culture said, "Character development of a child begins at birth." Similar to other community beliefs, important events like birth, marriage and death are performed within their own cultural and traditional boundaries.

Rituals From Pregnancy Till Childbirth : In Tamang community, the rituals for the unborn child begins with the confirmation of the pregnancy. According to Buddhist tradition, before the birth of a child, religious rituals are performed for their protection against external vices. As long as the child is in the womb, it is believed that the parents of the unborn child should not sacrifice any animals. The Nwaran (naming ceremony) is performed within 3 days of childbirth by a Lama. The ritual can also be performed on the 11th day of the childbirth, if unfavourable circumstances arise.

There is an utmost value of a Lama in every aspect of Tamang rituals. From birth to death, the presence and rituals performed by a Lama is considered supreme.

Before the naming ceremony of the child, Dipchyang Pong (offering) is served to the Lama. The Lama then picks the ideal date for the ritual and performs purification or cleansing ritual for the child with Bonbo water.

Bamboo is one of the major ritual practitioners in Tamang life. Bonbo have unique powers of sight and capture lost shadow-souls, revive life force and reveal the source of distress.

The end of the ritual is marked with distribution of Bonbo water and fried rice flour among relatives.

After birth, the next important ceremony in the Tamang community is the rice feeding ceremony. Daughters are fed rice at 5 months and sons are fed at 6 months. The eldest member of the family feeds the child with the beaks of the Mynah Bird. "It is believed that

being fed with the beaks of the Mynah, the child develops a sweetness in the voice like a bird," said the Tamang scholar.

Rituals Performed By The Young Child Alongside the growth of the child, there are various norms and values to support the child socialize in the ad-hoc environment. Daughters are presented a "Syama," a pair of hand woven traditional clothes. In every odd year, the Lama presents the "Syama" to the daughters. After the Tamba, a societal leader

in the Tamang community recites the origin of �Syama" the daughter is given clothes. However, the tradition of "Syama" is fading away in recent times.

Sons perform the Chewar, a head shaving ceremony. For sons, their part in family rituals and other practices come to value only after the Chewar. It should be done between 3rd day and 7 years of birth. An invitation for Chewar consisting of rice, beaten rice, wheat bread, alcohol and rooster is sent to the maternal uncle. The uncle then comes with new scissors, cap, white cloth belt, a cloth to cover the shaved head, plate, a pair of suits, offerings and a water pot as acceptance to the invitation and performs Chewar on his nephew.

Marriage Rituals The marriage ceremony of the Tamang community is unique as well. In Tamang community, there is acceptance of marriage between maternal and paternal cousins. The Tamba represents the boy side of the family and takes bread, hen and alcohol as an offering to the girl's side of the family for marriage proposal.

The acceptance of the offering denotes an affirmative answer while returning the offering denotes the opposite.

The groom side brings an offering consisting of a

C U LT U R E 12 of any required elements to the bride's side of the family. There is a requirement of 12 Mohar paisa (1 mohar = 50 paisa and 100 paisa = Rs. 1), 12 dharni goat, (1 Dharni = 2.4 kg), 12 paathi rice (1 paathi = 4.5 kg) 12 paathi chyang (chyang is local alcohol) and 12 Bisa roti to perform marriage rituals. Another important ritual in the Tamang marriage is Chardam also known as Karjel Chol (giving away the virgin). The ritual consists of 1 mana (a pot of bronze to measure grains) rice, 1 paisa, drinks like jaad, raksi (local alcohol).

A pair of pigeons is represented as family ancestors and the Chardam is performed.

The Tamang community prioritizes maternal power over paternal in case of marriage decisions.

The pigeons are free to fly after the ritual is complete. If legend is to be believed, it is said that the marriage ceremony of the couple is not fully accepted until the Chardam is performed.

The Tamang community prioritizes maternal power over paternal in case of marriage decisions. The bride's mother's decision is supreme. The community equally respects widow marriage. They encourage the widow to remarry the brother of her husband. The decision to remarry remains in the hands of the widow. Mr. Rabindra Tamang, a Tamang scholar said that the community is also acceptable if the woman wishes to marry another man, while her husband is still alive.

Rituals For The Departed Rituals performed for the deceased soul is also considered of great significance. These rituals are performed within 7 or 49 days of death. In the death of a married woman, her maternal family performs the closing ritual. "The woman is handed over to her mother's family after her death. The rituals are performed at the husband's house while the closing ritual 'Taashi' is to be done in the women's mother's house," says Rabindra Tamang. Tashi is the ritual process where the deceased is prayed to be sent to heaven.

Churchill Complex, Sundhara, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 01-6210579, Fax: 01-4268107 email: pathibhara_2010@hotmail.com

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Lhosar - Celebrating The New Year The main festival celebrated by the Tamang community is Lhosar. Lhosar is a new year festival celebrated on the first day of the Lunar calendar (which usually happens in February). The community has 12 different animals as 12 years. On the first day of Lhosar people make figures of the 12 animals with flour. The exchange of traditional sweets made of buckwheat like Khapse and Aalum takes place among relatives and loved ones. The elders of the family also give their blessings in the form tika (rice mixed with yogurt). l Babita Tamang @BabitaGhising

MUSIC

The essence of music through Bansuri I

f you have listened to traditional South Asian music, especially from Nepal, Bangladesh, India, Paskitan and Sri Lanka, you are quite familiar with the melodious sound of the bamboo flute or Bansuri.

In Hinduism, the Bansuri is of great significance - it is played for Lord Krishna to spread the divinity of music during the Golden Age. In the present era, there are many experts who exert themselves to proliferate the essence of Bansuri and blend it with modern music, to give it a traditional touch. On the other hand, there are makers of the Bansuri, who try to give it an A+ sound to the instrument. One such Bansuri maker is Resham Gurung.

Resham's passion to recreate music with self-made bansuri, and his curiosity to do it better than the others have made him an expert to bring out the best tunes from the bamboo. He has been making bansuris since 2015. He started making the professional bansuri from the guidelines of the masterpiece bansuri that his brother had brought from India for his reference.

According to him, an actual set of bansuri for 12 soundtrack consists of 24 pieces.

The process of making a bansuri

begins with choosing a suitable bamboo for the sound. Bansuri can only be made by a specific kind of bamboo found in the forests of Meghlaya and Assam in India.

For a proper finishing, the bamboo tree has to be at least 3-4 years of age. "If a raw bamboo has been cut from tree before the required time, then the bansuri will not produce the proper sound," says Resham.

The bamboo is further cleaned and dried to clear the rust and damage while heating and refining them.

After properly basking in the sun, the bamboos are examined upon which type of sound will be perfect for them. This is decided, depending on the length, its rawness and thickness it holds. The maker then scales up the dimensions of the length between the holes and diameter of the specific bansuri. The raw bamboo, when given a shape and completed with detailing, is then polished and designed.

The sounds of the bansuri are Sa, Re, Ga, Ma, Dha, Ni and Sa and the scale of the bansuri for these sounds are C, C-sharp, D, D-sharp, E, F, F-sharp, G, G-sharp, A, A-sharp, B

"A slight difference with only a 1 mm cut can lead to an off tune of the sound of the bansuri," claimed Resham, pointing to the wasted bamboos and bansuris that were rejected due to the minimal differences.

"The flavor of the sound of the bansuri compliments the composition of music in both traditional and modern recordings," said Gurung, scrolling through his proven record of "Thamel Bazara", a popular Nepali song.

Going down memory lane, Resham Gurung started his proper business of making bansuri for his brother, Dhan Bahadur Gurung. Dhan is a "guru" of bansuri at Kalanidhi Indira Sangeet Mahavidhyalaya Nepal, Naad Sangeet Pathsala, GEMS School and various other music classes. Initially, Resham started by making flutes for the students for his brother classes. Now, he sells up to 20 -25 complete sets of his bansuri every year.

Due to the complimentary sound that the flute provides to music, the demand of the instrument is rising beyond the borders as well. Interested visitors can also take tuitions with Dhan Bahadur Gurung and are motivated to embrace the tunes in their native bands at home.

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A Y U RV E D I C

Dya Khaa Pasa A Time Old Emporium

T

The series of stores, right around the corner of Patan Durbar Square, looks like it is stuck in time.

Nothing has changed about them; except may be the people who stay behind its counter and those who visit it. It contrasts vastly from the surrounding hustle and bustle of the busy commercial area with two-wheelers zooming past and tuktuks waiting for passengers.

These stores are DyaKhaapasa: (pasa: meaning shop in Newari), traditional shops that sell anything from food items to medicinal herbs and essentials for religious rituals. Rumors have it that it originated from the first shopkeeper who was a left-handed man. In Newari, “Dekhaa” is used to denote a left-handed person.

When people referred to the store, they would call it Dekhaa’spasa: and with time the name evolved into the DyaKhaapasa: Today, most old and rustic shops that sell herbal and ayurvedic remedies along with dried fruits and ritualistic objects in Patan are commonly known as a DyaKhaapasa: The stores’ exterior is a rustic structure of wooden

38

pillars and shutters. On the inside, the walls are stacked to the ceiling with spices, herbs, sweets, nuts, oils, ointments, etc. It is a sensory overload, with its surrounding space filled with a strong aroma.

We take you on a journey to understand the significance of these stores.

An Apothecary Perhaps, the best way to understand DyaKhaapasa: is to compare them to an apothecary. As herbal pharmaceuticals, these stores were as important as hospitals; their shopkeepers were pharmacists or almost doctors. My mother recalls visiting these stores, located in the same place as they are today, “Maa (mother) used to ask me to get paachak (digestive pills) for her stomach ache.” In older times, when hospitals and doctors where unheard of, people would buy necessary herbs and spices from these DyaKhaapasa:s to prepare medicines that would cure their ailment. Even today, a nutritious Ayurvedic formula is given to new mothers are still made

and found in these DyaKhaapasa: just like olden times.

Solution to gastritis and balm for backaches are concocted here and sold to ailing individuals. My mother who has been a regular customer at these stores since her younger days shares that little has changed in the ways of DyaKhaapasa:s. “Perhaps the only change is the packaging,” she comments, “Before, the packaging used to be in paper, now, it is plastic.” Regardless of the packaging, the content still works wonders.

The herbal remedies of the DyaKhaapasa: are brought from sources as traditional as the shops themselves. These remedies are often brought from traditional ayurvedic manufacturers of Patan, the Vaidyas. The store also has products made from local businesses. Often, customers won’t even find the items displayed in the DyaKhaapasa: anywhere else.

Everything for a Ritual Patan takes pride in its culture and rituals. There is at least one big puja happening somewhere in Patan, in a household. The DyaKhaapasa: is a one stop answer to all things ritualistic. From cotton threads, peacock feathers, butter lamps to customary items like jajanka (a threaded garland), aakhya (rice seeds used in pujas), and fish for swogan(good luck)can be found in there.

Even back in the days, when people managed to prepare most of these puja items in their convenience of their homes, DyaKhaapasa:s were an inescapable part of their routine.

the essential items and simply asks of how many of each item is required. It is an amazing exchange to witness and one that remains endearing after all these years. DyaKhaapasa: is still a popular store for many Patan denizens. Where else would you otherwise find delicacies such as dried apricots, figs, and peaches?

The DyaKhaapasa: are worn by time, but they are a magical emporium nonetheless. Business is perhaps slow due to urbanization, but their values stay strong. A DyaKhaapasa: is perhaps not even as big as a quarter of an aisle in a big supermarket, but is a wonderous world of its own. It is amazing to watch its storekeepers whip out items from unseen compartments of the cupboard as you list them out. It is equally interesting to watch them still use double-sided beam balance to measure little portions of miniscule products. And as the world whizzes pass them, DyaKhaapasa:s are a note captured in a time-capsule that narrates the old way of life.

All things Food Every year during Tihar, my mom makes a mental note of all things she will need for the festival. This includes puja items and mandatory edible goodies like walnuts, fishes, bags of masala, etc. Regardless of her note, she always forgets a few items. It is always the DyaKhaapasa: that comes to the rescue.

The storekeeper puts forth

39

C OV E R S T ORY

Panchase

Garden of Agro-biodiversity and Culture

The confluence of nature, culture  and spiritualism is Khaptad. It is a majestic gift where visitors can meditate, do yoga or just travel. To explore the vast beauty if Khaptad National Park, you will need to plan a minimum 3 day tour.

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Mt. Fishtail

Chitre Homestay

Panchase Bhanjyang

Panchkoshi Lake

A destination close to the touristic city of Pokhara lies Panchase, a city of scenic natural beauty, belongingness and a taste of culturalism. You can visit Panchase throughout the year, but the best time is between October to December l Amrit Bhadgaunle

41

C OV E R S T ORY

P

anchase seems like a hill that is guarding Pokhara. It is located at a conjunction of 5 hills, and covers the districts of Syangja, Parbat and Kaski. There are five cliff tops around Panchase, home to Siddha Baba’s Temple, View Tower, Mahadev Temple, Spiritual Sanctuary and an ancient royal fort and statues of Lord Buddha. There’s a local legend that says that the hill was once a residence for holy saints and sages. A forest fire in late 2023 BS compelled the sages to move from there. Panchase is rich in culture too. With a population of over 70,000 people from different ethnicities like Gurungs, Magars, Brahmins, Kshetriyas, Pariyars, Nepalis and Newaris.

From Panchase, you get heart melting views of golden mountains during sunrise, which glows reddish-orange during sunset. At a height of 2,519m, you get to see famous peaks like Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Gangapurna, Manaslu, Fishtail, etc.

Spread over an area of over 5,500 hectares with variations in altitude from 784 m to 2,517m, Panchase is a garden of agro-biodiversity. It is home to more than 250 bird species, 600 plant species, 118 orchid species and more than a dozen species of herbs. Mammals like leopard, black bear, etc are found in its forests.

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Mt. Dhaulagiri

Panchase is also the genesis of water. It is the origin of Phewa Lake, River Harpan, River Aadhi, River Rapti, and River Jarey.

Touristic development has been a top priority for Panchase and the Machhapuchhre Development Community since the past 1.5 years and 3 decades respectively. The Government of Nepal has also made Panchase a touristic priority. Back then, there was no altertnate for “Camping Trek” around Panchase. Travellers had to carry all their trekking requirements with them. Now,

teahouse trekking is a possibility due to the availability of lodges and homestays.

Furthermore, the availability of road has made travel to Panchase convenient.

There are future plans for a cable car from Ghanti-Cheena to Bhangjyang.

Community Chairperson, Gopal Gurung says Panchase is a favorable destination for yoga and meditation. The number of tourists going to Panchase has been increasing steadily for the purpose

of peace and yoga treks.

We have outlined a 5 day trek plan to Panchase.

Day 1: Your Journey Begins Take an early morning flight to Pokhara from Kathmandu. The flight takes less than 30 minutes. If the weather is pleasant, you get amazing views of mountains like Mt. Gauri Shankar, Mt. Langtang, Mt. Dorje Lakpa, Manaslu, Lamjung, Annapurna, Fishtail, Dhaulagiri, etc.

The trek starts from Pokhara airport.

After a 10 minutes walk from the airport, you reach the dam of Phewa Lake. Take an uphill road through Raniban. Take a walk through the World Peace Pagoda to Kalabang and reach Bhumdi on the same day. Along the view, be sure to take in the amazing views of Phewa Lake, Pokhara market and mountains.

Have a much needed lunch at Kalabang Homestay, and then resume trekking for 4 hours to Bhumdi. Overnight

at a hotel in Bhumdi.

Day 2: Trek to Panchase After a hearty breakfast, you will resume the trek for 5 hours. The trek takes you through the jungle, where you hear birds chirping and the growls of animals. There are no restaurants or hotels along the trek, until you reach Bhangjyang, where you will enjoy lunch.

After lunch, get ready for a 1.5 hour uphill

Some words of caution l Wild animals can appear along the trek route. Therefore,

it is favorable to travel in groups. l Teasing animals, plucking flowers and herbs or anything

that destroys the natural habitat is strictly prohibited. l Do not enter local residents, temples and monasteries

without permission. Take consent of the person you are taking a photo of.

l Littering is strictly prohibited. If you have any litter,

dispose them in the dustbins. l Leeches might bite you during monsoon. Some

homemade remedies you can use is sprinkling salt on the leech while it is on your body. l Be sure to wear shoes with better grip, as there are changes of snow during winters.

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C OV E R S T ORY

Homestay There are villages of different ethnicities that operate homestays. It is advisable to reach the homestay before the sun sets. Do not keep the locals waiting in the kitchen for the whole night.

Furthermore, order dishes that are listed on the menu only.

Some of the homestays: Kalabang Samudaik Homestay: Contact: Prakash Gurung – 9846041805 Chitre Samudaik Homestay: Contact: Sushila Devi Gurung – 9847791986 Bhadaure Samudaik Homestay: Contact: Rupesh Gurung – 9806510153 Talibarang Samudaik Homestay: Contact: Laxmi Gurung: 9846174803 Aarthar Samudaik Homestay: Contact: Amrit Bahadur Gurung9815128676 Sidhane Samudaik Homestay: Contact: Balshova Gurung 9804118682

Bhadaure

trek to reach the crest of Panchase. Rest at a hotel operated by Lok Gurung in Panchase. Enjoy the sunset and rest for the night at Panchase.

Day 3: Sunrise at Panchase, Trek down to ChiTRE Enjoy the sunrise while you sip your coffee or tea. With the rise of the sun, the mountains embrace the warmth and glow of the golden sun rays. The mountains from Dhaulagiri to Lamjung bathed in the golden rays is a rare sight to experience.

After breakfast, trek downhill to Pokhara from Deurali and Paaudur or

Be it domestic or international tourists, any guest is as equal as god to us. We provide a holistic environment with organic food and proper night stay facilities at Chitre Homestay.

Sushila Devi Gurung Aguwa

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from Aarthar Hill area. Better still, walk to Chitre Village through hill where you are rewarded with the view of the clean

While touring around Pokhara, our village Kalabang Ghaderi is suitable for lunch. If you have time, a two night stay in our village is highly recommended.

waters of the Panchakoshi (Five Koshi) Lake, a sight to behold from the top of the hill. Baraha Temple is located along the shore of the lake .

We’re actively working to enhance Panchase as a center for tourism.

As a junction of biological diversity, spiritualism and culture, Panchase is one of the mustgo destinations.

PRAKASH GURUNG Aguwa

gOPAL GURUNG Convervationist

Pokhara A Leisure City

P

Pokhara is a gift of nature to Nepal. In this gift of nature, there are mountains, lakes, caves, monasteries, rivers, waterfalls, etc. Surrounded by the amazing white peaks of the Annapurna range, Pokhara is a beautiful haven. There are heart melting activities to keep one lively, like paragliding, ultralight flight, bungee jumping, zip flying, etc. For a relaxing vibe, you can go boating on Phewa Lake or Begnas Lake.

There are numerous caves in Pokhara too, like Mahendra Cave, Bat Cave and Gupteshwor Cave The rare cave system is named after Late King Mahendra. As the name suggests, the Bat Cave is where you get to see hundreds of bats living in the cave. Inside the Gupteshwor Cave is a stalagmite worshipped as a Shiva Lingam. Delving 140m deeper gives you a unique view of Davis Fall.

On the confluence of the Phewa Lake, Pokhara Market and the Himalayan ranges is the World Peace Pagoda. The hill where the stupa lies gives the best views of Pokhara valley. To reach the stupa, you can either take a boat ride from Phewa Lake to the base of the hill and hike to the stupa or take a vehicle from Chorepatan straight to the stupa.

Besides the natural beauty, there are museums that you can go to in Pokhara. The Gurkha museum near K.I Singh Bridge showcases the bravery of the Gurkhas. The International Mountain Museum presents the history of mountaineers in Nepal with a glimpse into their trekking

How

T o

l Choose from either a 6 hour bus ride

from Kathmandu to Pokhara or take a 25 minute flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara. l There are 4 routes you can choose to reach Panchase from Pokhara: l From Hallan Chowk - Pokhara Bhanjyang: You will take a vehicle through the rough road. There are public buses available from Hallan Chowk to Ghanti Cheena. From there, it is a 5 hour walk to Panchase. l From Pokhara - Nau Danda - Set Dobhan - Aarthar Hill by bus, and then a 4 hour walk to Panchase.

gears. The mountain museum also showcases the lives of the people living up in the mountains. The Annapurna Natural History Museum or Annapurna Butterfly Museum has over 600 species of butterflies.

Another place of interest is the Tibetan Refugee Camp in Hemja. Here, you’ll see people with a mane (a Buddhist prayer instrument) chanting Om Mane Padme Home under the breath. The camp is also referred to as a Tibetan village.

Famous temples like Tal Barahi, Bindhyabasini lie in the lap of Pokhara. You can also visit a Muslim mosque in Miyapatan.

R e ac h l From

Pokhara to Kaadey to Bhadaurey to Chitre by bus. From Chitre, it’s a 4 hour walk to Panchase. l From Pokhara to Kaadey to Bhadaurey to Deurali by bus, followed by a 4 hour walk to Panchase. l It’s best to start a three day trek from Pokhara. A walk from the dam side of Phewa Lake, passing through Raniban, the World Peace Pagoda and Kalabang with an overnight stay at Bhumdi. On the second day, reach the top of Panchase Hill from Bhanjyang, and on the third day from Panchase to Chitre Village.

This area hosts carnivals during Nepali festivals like Bala Chadurdashi, Shivaratri, Fagun Purnima, Saun Sombar, Buddha Jayanti and Nepali New Year.

After a 4 hour walk, you reach Chitre Village a Gurung settlement, where you have the choice of homestays.

Day 4: Drive to Pokhara, overnight at hotel After an early morning tour around the village and breakfast, drive to Pokhara. It is a 4 hour drive from Chitre to Pokhara. You can take a day tour around Pokhara and overnight at a hotel at the lakeside.

Day 5: Explore Pokhara

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5f] / f Ol~hlgo/ alglbP x'GYof] eGg] ;'lgnnfO{ nfu] sf] lyof] . … dnfO{ klg kl/ jf/ n ] t 8fS6/ aGg' eg] sf] lyof] ,Ú ;'lgnn] eg] , … t/ d kfOn6 ag] F .Ú ;'lgnsf a'af clk|msL /

fi6« ;'8fgdf ;+oQ' m / fi6«;3+ df sfd uy] { . ;'lgn ;g\ !(*& df a'af;Fu ;'8fg 3'Dg uPsf lyP .

ToxLF g} pgn] cfkm" cd] l/ sf k9\g hfg rfx] sf] a'afnfO{ atfP . Ps jif{ cd]l / sf a;] / ;'lgn

48

g] kfn kmls{P . ;g\ !(** df kfOn6 tflnd ;s] kl5 pgL b'O{ jif{ sfdljxLg eP . Tof] a] nf g] kfndf Ps dfq zfxL g] kfn jfo'; j] f lgud ;~rfngdf lyof] . ;g\ !((! Dff ;~rfngdf cfPsf] Pe/ :] 6 Po/ df !((@ af6 ;'lgnn] ljdfg p8fpg yfn] . ;g\ !((& df Pe/ :]

6 Po/ aGb eof] / ToxL jif{ a'Wb Po/ ;'? eof] . % jif{sf] lxdfnL / kxf8L If] qsf] p8fg cg'ejkl5 pgn] a'Wb Po/ sf ljdfg p8fpg yfn] . kxf8sf 5f]6 f wfjgdfu{df p8fg ul/ ;s] sf kfOn6nfO{ t/ fO{sf ljdfg: yndf p8fg ug{ ;lhnf] x'g ] pgsf] cg'ej 5 . klxnf] dfpG6] g km\nfO6af6 kms]n { uQ} l;4fy{n ] cfkm\gf] lgZro a'afcfdfnfO{ lgw{Ss ;'gfP . … aa' fcfdfn] ;'?df kfOn6 gag eGg'ePsf] lyof], Ú l;4fy{ ljut ;lDemFb } eG5g\, … t/ kl5 dfGg'eof] .Ú g] kfndf ljdfg p8fpg hf] lvdk"0f{ 5 eGg] yfxf eP klg ;'lgnn] 5f] / fsf] lg0f{osf] sb/ ug'{ plrt b] v ] / ;fy;xof] u lbP . a'af kfOn6 ePsf sf/ 0f cd] l/ sfdf tflnd lng hfg'cl3 g} l;4fy{n ] ljdfg p8fg

/ cjt/ 0f ug] { tl/ sf hflg;s] sf lyP . ;'lgnsf Ps ;fyLsf] Go'of] sd{ f ljdfg p8fpg l;sfpg] l;d'n 6] / lyof] . k|lt306f $) 8n/ z'Ns nfUg] ePklg ;fyLn] ;'lgn;Fu k} ;f lnPgg\ . … aa' fn] larqmfkm\6df ljdfg p8fg / cjt/ 0f ug{ l;sfO;Sg' ePsf] lyof] .

To;} n ] xf] nf, cd] l/ sfdf uP/ b'O{ l;6] hxfh p8fpg l;Sbf ;lhnf] dx;'; eof] ,Ú l;4fy{n] eg] . cd] l/ sfdf tflnd ;s] / pgL @)!@ sf] h'nfO{df g] kfn kms] {. a'af a'Wb Po/ df g} OG: 6S« 6/ kfOn6 ePsfn] l;4fy{nfO{ hflu/ kfpg d'l: sn ePg . ofq'sf ?kdf klxnf] k6s dfpG6] g km\ nfO6 u/ s ] f] $ jif{kl5 l;4fy{ cfkm}n F ] kfOn6 eP/ dfpG6] g km\nfO6 u/ ] . pgn] klxnf] k6s kfOn6 aGg] ;kgf dfpG6] g km\nfO6d} ofqf ubf{ b] v s ] f lyP . kfOn6 alg;s] kl5 klxnf] Joj;flos p8fg klg dfpG6] g km\nfO6 g} u/ ] . … To;a] nf cfkm\gf ;kgf ;fy{s ePh: tf] dx;'; u/ , F] Ú l;4fy{n ] ;'gfP . xfn OG: 6S« 6/ kfOn6 ;'lgn / h'lgo/ SofK6]g l;4fy{ b'j} afa'5f]/ f a'Wb Po/ df sfo{/ t 5g\ .

kltkTgLsf] p8fg klTg – df]lgsf k|hfklt, h'lgo/ SofK6]g, olt Po/nfOG; klt – ;'/h e08f/L, l;lgo/ km:6 clkm;/, lxdfno Po/nfOG; df] lgsf k|hfklt / ;'/ h e08f/ Lsf] klxnf] e] 6 ;g\ @)!! df ePsf] lyof] . b'j } olt Po/ nfOG;sf] u|fpG8 XofG8lnª 6« l] gªdf e] l6Psf lyP . To;nuQ} l;d'n 6] / df tflnd lng hfFbf klg pgLx¿ ;Fu } eP . ;Fu } tflnd lnPsf] x'gfn] pgLx¿n] Pscsf]n { fO{ / fd|/ L a'em]s f lyP . To;}n

] pgLx¿ Pscsf{kl| t k| d] fzQm x'g ;do nfu] g . ;'/ hnfO{ e] 6 /] dg k/ fO;s] kl5 df] lgsfn] a'afnfO{ klg of] s'/ f ;'gfOg\ . … cfkm\gf] lhGbuL pxL;Fu latfpg rfxG5f} eg] xfdLnfO{ s]x L km/ s kb}g { eGg'eof] a'afn] ,Ú df] lgsf ;lDemlG5g\ . b'j t} km{ 3/ df s'/ f ePkl5 b'j } kl/ jf/ 6\ofd/ L / i] 6'/ G] 6df e] 6g\ ] to eof] . t/ kfl/ jfl/ s e] 6df s'/ f rflxF csf]t { km{af6 ;'? eP x'GYof] eGg] b'j } kIfnfO{ nfUof] . lgs} a /] ljjfxaf/ ] s'/ f ;'? gePkl5 ;'/ h cfkm} F cl3 ;/ ] / eg] , … tkfO{x+ ¿ xfd|f ] lax] sf] s'/ f ;'? gug] { eP d cfkm}F eG5' . xfdL Pscsf{nfO{ dgk/ fpF5f} . ca lax] ug{ rfxG5f} F . tkfO{x+ ¿sf] ljrf/ s] 5 <Ú t/ df] lgsfsf] xh'/ af lat] sfn] To;sf] Ps jif{kl5 dfq} @)!% df pgLx¿sf] ljjfx eof] . ;'/ hsf] ;kgf lyof] , h] 6 p8fpg] . … To;} n ] @)!% df hf] lvd df]n /] ljdfg g} gePsf] lxdfnodf HjfOg u/ , F] Ú ;'/ h eG5g\, … lax] sf] ef] lnkN6 d lxdfnodf cGtjf{tf{ lbg uPsf] lyPF .Ú s] xL ;do s'/ k] l5 pgL cGt/ fl{ i6«o p8fg ug{ yfn] . … cfGtl/ s p8fg ul/ / fv] sf] dnfO{ Ps}r f] l6 cGt/ fl{ i6«o p8fg ubf{ kf} 8L v] Ng ghfGg] dfG5] ;d'bd| f xfd kmfn]h : tf] eof] ,Ú pgL ;'gfpF5g\ . ;g\ @))* df lkmlnlkG;af6 tflnd lnP/ kms]s

{ L df]l gsfsf] klxnf] p8fg @))( df l;ldsf] 6sf nflu lyof] . @))* d} cd] l/ sfdf tflnd ;s] / kms]s { f ;'/ hn] km] l/ km\nfO6 OG: 6S« 6/ sf] Psjif] { tflnd lnP . To;kl5 Ps jif{ g] kfnL ;]g fdf sfd u/

] / @)!@ df olt Po/ nfOG;df p8fg ug{ yfn]s f lyP . df] lgsf / ;'/ hsf] cg'ejdf ljjfxkl5 w] / s } /' f kl/ jt{g ePsf] 5 . … / :] 6/' G] 6df e] 6g\ ,] : sfOkdf 306f} F s'/ f ug]{ ;do aRof], Ú ;'/h eG5g\, … kfOn6 hf] 8L sd 5g\ . To;} n ] clxn] xfdL ;a}s f] cfFvfdf kg{ yfn] sf 5f} F .Ú cGt/ hftLo ljjfx ePklg cfkm"n ] s'g } ;d: of gef] u s ] f] df] lgsf atfpFl5g\ . … ;/' h s] ol/ ª / ;kf] l6{e 5 . pm h: tf] d] xgtL dfG5] d} n ] b] v s ] f] 5} g,Ú df] lgsf elG5g\, … hLjg;fyL Pp6} If] qdf x'bF f k] ;fnfO{ a'em] sf] x'G5 To;} n ] emu8f x'bF g} . t/ slxn] sfxLF ;] 8o\ n ' ldnfpg g;Sbf rflxF e] 6g\ ufx|f ] x'g ] / x5 ] .Ú

49

;DaGw

lbbLefO kfOn6 lbbL – sf]dn a:g]t, l;lgo/ SofK6]g . efO{ – z'ej a:g]t, h'lgo/ SofK6]g, a'Wb Po/

pd] / sf] km/ s b'O{ jif{ dfq ePsf] n ] xf] nf sf] dn / z'ej a: g t] lbbLefO sd ;fyL a9L lyP . ;Fu } : sn ' cfphfp ug] { b'O{ hgfaLr emu8f gk/ s ] f] lbg x'bF g} Yof] . t/ hlt g} emu8f k/ ] klg b'jn

} fO{ v'a dgkg] { cfO;lqmd eg] ;Fu} vfg 5'6fpFb g} y] . sDKo'6/ df klg p8fg;DaGwL g} v] n v] Ny] pgLx¿ . v] Nbfv] Nb} b'j } hgfn] slxn]b l] v kfOn6 ;kgf b]V g yfn], pgLx¿nfO{ g} yfxf 5}g .

5f] / fnfO{ eGbf 5f] / LnfO{ a9L dxTj lbg] kl/ jf/ df x'ss {] f lyP sf] dn / z'ej . … xfd|f ] kl/ jf/ cln km/ s 5,Ú sf] dn elG5g\, … klxn] 5f] / Ln] eg] sf] s'/ f k"/ f x'G5, clg dfq 5f] / fsf] kfnf] cfpF5 .Ú To;} n ] g} kfOn6 aGg] rfxgf sf] dnsf] klxn] k"/ f eof] . kfOn6 tflnd lng pgL ;g\ @))^ df cd] l/ sfsf] 6] S;; uOg\ . hflu/ sf nflu tflnddf hfg'cl3 g} a'Wb Po/ df s'/ f eO;s] sf] n ] gf} dlxg] tflnd ;s] / g] kfn kms]n { uQ} pgn] sfd ;'? ul/ g \ . ! clk|n @))* sf lbg pgn] sf7df8f}b F l] v l;d/ f;Dd klxnf] Joj;flos p8fg el/ g \ .

50

5f] / L kfOn6 ag] kl5 kl/ jf/ df v';L 5fPsf] lyof] . lbbLn] ljdfg p8fPkl5 z'ejdf klg kfOn6 aGg] rfxgf emg} tLj| eof] . To;} n ] pgL ;g\ @))( df tflnd lng lkmlnlkG; uP . tflnd cjlwe/ kmf] gaf6} eP klg sf] dnn] efOnfO{ Wofg lbg'kg] {ljifodf ;Nnfx lbO/ lxg\ . z'ej tflnd ;s] / @)!) df g]k fn kmls{P . t/ tflndkl5 sfd kfpg pgn] sl/ a b'O{ jif{ klv{gk' ¥of] . …

Tof] ;dodf cfkmGtx¿ e]6 eP ls ltdL slxn] b l] v Kn] g p8fpg] eg] / ;f] Wy] ,Ú pgn] eg] , … To;} n d} n ] cfkmGt;Fu lgs} sd e] 63f6 u/ F] .Ú cGttM pgn] sfd kfP / @)!@ sf] cS6f] a/ !* df sf7df8f}– F e} / xjf klxnf] p8fg e/ ] . … klxnf] p8fg ug{ kfpFbf cToGt pT;flxt lyPF,

8/ klg nfu] sf] lyof] ,Ú z'ej eG5g\, … 6 l]« gªdf b'O{ l;6] ljdfg p8fPsf], oxfF 7"nf] ljdfg p8fpg'kbf{ ;'?df d'l: sn x'g ] / x 5 ] . k9] h: tf] gx'g ] / x 5 ] .Ú sf] dn / z'ejnfO{ ;Fu } ljdfg p8fpg dg 5 . t/ sslk6 l/ ;f] ;{ Dofg] hd] G6 kfngf gxf]n f eg] / / Qm;DaGw ePsfnfO{ p8fg ug{ Po/ nfOG;n] lbFb g} . p;f] t pgLx¿sf] 3/ df kfOn6 k] ;fdf cfa4 rf/ ;b: o x'g ] ePsf 5g\ . sf] dnsf klt kfOn6 g} x'g\ eg] z'ejsL x'g j] fnL kTgL klg kfOn6 g} x'g \ . z'ejn] cfufdL hgj/ Ldf ljjfx ub}5 { g\ . To;} n ] 3/ df rf/ h

} gf e] 6 x'bF f ;a}e Gbf a9L ukm p8fgs} x'G5 . … xfdL $ hgf ukmdf Jo: t x'bF f lbbL, a'af / cfdf rflxF ltdLx¿ cfkm\g } dfq} s'/ f u/ , xfdL lxF8o\ f}F eGg'xG' 5,Ú z'ej ;'gfpF5g\ . sf] dn / z'ejsf] ;DaGwdf klxn] b l] v clxn] ;Dd slQ klg km/ s cfPsf] 5} g . … d n } ] h] eg] klg lbbLn] dfGg'xG' 5,Ú z'ej eG5g\, … p8fgsf ;d: ofdf klg xfdL 5nkmn u5f} F { .Ú

sf];]nL

g]kfnsf] pkxf/ ;:tf / xNsf ;fdfgdf nf]leFb5 } g\ ko{6s . ahf/df @%) b]lv !@%) ?k}ofFdf kfOg] ;fdfgsf] dfu 5

P

s ;do lyof] , g] kfnaf6 kms{g ] a] nf ko{6s sfk]6 {, yfªsf, klZdgf, d"lt{, rfFlbsf uxgf, yfªsf lrq, sfi7snf nufot ;fdfg n} hfGy] . ;do ablnof] , cr] n o: tf ;fdfg lsGg] x¿ yf] / } x'G5g\ . clwsf+z ko{6sx¿ af] Sg xNsf / lsGg ;: tf] kg] { ;fdfg / f H] 5g\ . … xfta'gf ;fdfgsf] Jofkf/ sd 5Ú , sf] ; n ] LhGo ;fdfg pTkfbg ub} {cfPsf] lxdfnog Dofk xfp;, sf7df8f}s + f lgb]z { s kjg zfSo eG5g\, … cr]n af] Sg xNsf x'g ] / k} ;f klg ;: tf] kg]{ ;fdfg a9L laS5 .Ú cfh g] kfnsf] snf, ;+: sl[ t / k|sl[ t emNsg] lk|mh DofUg] 6, Kn] 6, Kn] Oª sf8{, : gf] Unf] a, sk, ls l/ ª, 6lsnf Unf;, rDrfn] ahf/ kfPsf] 5 . To;kl5 cfsif{s tl: a/ ePsf Sofn] G8/ , kf] i6/ , kf] i6sf8{ / kmf] 6f] a'ssf] dfu x'G5 . cr] n kf] i6/ / kf] i6sf8{sf] Jofkf/ klg 36\bf] 5 . l8lh6n Sofd] / f / : df6{kmf] gsf] ljsf;;Fu } kf] i6sf8{ / kf] : 6/ o'u ;lsof] . ahf/ df b'O{ ;o %) b]l v !@ ;o %) ?k} ofF;Dd kg] {;fdfg a9L laS5 . ljb] zLsf ;fy} aflx/ a: g ] g] kfnL klg otfaf6 sf] ;n ] L nfG5g . wft', ;] / fldS; / / a/ af6 aG5 lk|h DofUg] 6 . ljb] zdf o;sf] w] / } k|of] u x'G5 .

sf] 6df l;pFl/ g ] lkg–Jofh klg / fd|f ] sf] ; n ] L xf] . g] kfnsf] em08f, lxdfn / jGohGt'sf tl: a/ x'G5 Jofhdf . 6] andf ;hfOg] : gf] Unf] adf ;u/ dfyf, cGgk"0f{, af} 4gfy, : joDe'gfy, a'4sf d"lt{ / flvG5 . lxdfnog Dofk xfp;n] b'O{ bzsb] lv sf] ; n ] LhGo ;fdfg, ko{6sLo gSzf / ufO8 a'sx¿ pTkfbg ub} {cfPsf] 5 . p;n] hfthfltsf cg'xf/ , lxdfn, hgfa/ , km"n cflbsf tl: a/ / fv] / v] Ng] tf; klg pTkfbg ub} {cfPsf] 5 . ;: tf] ;fdfgaf6 d'ns ' n] vf;} kmfObf lng ;Sb} g . xfd|f df}l ns x: tsnf k|j4{g ug{ ;s] Psflt/ / f h ] uf/ L ;[hgf x'g ;S5 eg] csf]l { t/ / fHon] / fd|f ] cfDbfgL u5{ . To;} n ] ;/ sf/ n ] df}l ns x: tsnf k|j4{g cleofg rnfpg' k5{ .

51

kl/sf/

lh/Lsf] :jfb lh/Laf6 Rof]b{ f]ª lrh sf/vfgf, Rof]bf]ª { 8fF8f, a'4 kfs{, l;qmL ufpF, on'ª ufpF, nf}tL em/gf, xg'dGt] 8fF8f, lrof aufg nufot w]/l} t/ xfOlsª ug{ ;lsG5 . To;}n] lh/L If]q 3'Dg Ps ;ftfn] klg k'Ub}g .

bf]

nvfsf] lh/ L pkTosf 3'Dg nfos 5 . pQ/ –blIf0f km} n s ] f] / k"j–{ klZrd ;fF3/' f ] xl/ t pkTosf . o;nfO{ kx/ f lbO/ x s ] f 8fF8fkfvf Pj+ j: tL klg nf] enfUbf 5g\ .

To;} n ] slDtdf tLg / ft lh/ L a: g ] u/ L ofqf of] hgf agfpg' a] ; x'G5 . ;/ sf/ n ] bf] nvfsf uflj;x¿ dfnL, 7"nf] kftn, Zofdf / lh/ LnfO{ ldnfP/ lh/ L gu/ kflnsf agfPsf] 5 . lh/ L ahf/ glhs} lh/ Z] j/ , 9'uF Z] j/ L, / fª/ fª] Zj/ L, xn] ;Lwfd / b] jL dlGb/ 5g\ . To: t } cUnf] 5f] tg {] , a'4 au}r+ f, u'? kB;+ejsf] d"lt{ / u'Daf 5g\ . lh/ Laf6 Rof]b { f] ª lrh sf/ vfgf, Rof] bf]ª { 8fF8f, a'4 kfs{, l;qmL ufpF, on'ª ufpF, nf} tL em/ gf, xg'dGt] 8fF8f, lrof aufg nufot w] / l} t/ xfOlsª ug{ ;lsG5 . To;} n ] lh/ L If] q 3'Dg Ps ;ftfn] klg k'Ub} g . lh/ Lsf cflbjf;L x'g–lh/ n ] . ls/ ftsf] Pp6f zfvf–lh/ n ] . p;sf] cfkm\g } efiff, ;+: sl[ t, hLjgz} nL / kl/ sf/ 5g\ . To;} n ] bf] nvfsf] lh/ L pkTosfdf lh/ n ] ;+: sl[ t cjnf] sg ug{ kfOG5 . lh/ Ldf cfh lh/ n ] dfq xf] Og, z] kf{, ;'gj' f/ , ljZjsdf{, tfdfª, g] jf/ , If] qL, afx'g nufot ;d'bfo ldn] / a;] sf 5g\ . hflto lx;fan] ;d] t yl/ yl/ sf km"nx¿ km"Ng] km"naf/ L

52

h: t } 5 ag] sf] 5 lh/ L . cGo hfltsf kl/ sf/ t cGoq klg kfOG5 t/ lh/ n ] kl/ sf/ lh/ Ldf dfq kfS5 . df} ;d cg';f/ sf kl/ sf/ kfOG5 lh/ n ] sf efG5fdf . tL kl/ sf/ : jflbnf] / nfebfos x'G5 . x'g t lh/ Ldf ko{6sLo ;'ljwfsf bh{g eGbf a9L xf] 6n 5g\ t/ , ToxfFsf] k'/ fgf] xf] 6n … uflanfÚ n ] dfq ko{6ssf] l8df08 cg';f/ lh/ n ] kl/ sf/ agfpF5 . s] z/ lh/ n ] n] )%$ df vf] n s ] f] xf] 6ndf yl/ yl/ sf lh/ n ] kl/ sf/ kfS5 . … xf] 6n uflanfÚ sf] d] gd' f cfn'sf] / f 6] L, df] / ,] kmfn, l/ Nbf] s, l;Ndf, hl/ u+ f] , P] / ,] km"nf} / f, kf] Nb] s, k'jf nufot kl/ sf/ 5 . cr] n lrh, 5'kL{, 5\ofª, tf] ªaf / ;'s6' L klg lh/ L kl/ sf/ sf ?kdf lrlgO;s] . … xfd|f df} lns kl/ sf/ ko{6snfO{ rvfpg kfpFbf v'zL nfU5Ú , xf] 6n uflanfsf ;~rfns s] z/ bfO{ eG5g\, … o: tf kl/ sf/ agfpg xfdLnfO{ s] xL 3G6f cufl8 c8{/ lbg' k5{ .Ú / f 6] L M cfn' / fd|f ] pTkfbg x'G5 lh/ Ldf .

To;} n ] lh/ n ] ;d'bfodf cfn'sf] / f 6] L agfpg] rng 5 . sfFrf] cfn'nfO{ 3f] 6 /] dl;gf] agfOG5 clg 9'uF fsf] tfjfdf ksfOG5 . To;kl5 £o' / v';f{gLsf] 5f] k;Fu vfFbf : jflbnf] x'G5 .

l;Ndf M sf] bf] e'l6G5 . To;nfO{ 5\ ofª h: tf] ksfP/ l5lKkPkl5 lr;f] kfgL / fv] / vfOG5 . o: tf] kl/ sf/ ljz] iftM ljjfx, j|tjGw h: tf z'esfo{df vfg] rng 5 .

To: t} kbdrfn h8La'6L ld;fPsf] sf] bf] sf] / S;L klg kfOG5 . l/ Nbf] s M lxpFbdf l/ Nbf] s vfg] rng 5 . sf] bf] sf] lk7f] kfgLdf d'5] kl5 To;nfO{ ls t xfF8Ldf 5f] k] / ksfOG5 ls t v/ fgLleq kf] lnG5 . clg crf/ ;Fu vfOG5 . vfg ld7f] / cfl8nf] x'G5 l/ Nbf] s . df] / ] M df] / ] d'nfsf] crf/ xf] . d'nfnfO{ l;nf} 6f] jf cf] vndf s'6g\ ] / To;df g'g, v';f{gL / l;nfdsf] 5f] k / fv] / crf/ agfOG5 . d'nf x'g ] h'g;'s } l;hgdf df] / ] agfOG5 . vfhf / vfgf;Fu of] crf/ vfOG5 .

kmfn M of] ljz] if kl/ sf/ xf] . cfF6f d'5] / To;nfO{ b'wdf ksfOG5 . ljz] iftM lh/ ] n ;d'bfdf ;fpg] ;+qmflGtsf lbg 3/ 3/ df vfg] rng 5 .

P] / ] M lh/ ] n ;d'bfodf ;fpg ! ut] P] / ] vfg] rng 5 . ux'Fsf] lk7f] d'5] / 8Nnf] kfl/ G5, To;nfO{ kfgLdf ksfOG5 / kl5 £o" jf t] ndf e'l6G5 . : jflbnf] x'G5 P] / ] . b] Vb} vfpF vfpF nfU5 .

km"nf} / f] M df3] ;+qmflGtsf lbg km"nf} / f vfg] rng 5 . kmfk/ sf] / f] 6L : ofgf] cfsf/ df agfOG5 . / , To;nfO{ crf/ ;Fu vfOG5 . ltt] / ld7] b'a} kmfk/ af6 km"nf} / f aG5 . kf] Nb] s M e'6] sf] ux'Fsf] lk7f] 5ofª;Fu df] n] / 8Nnf] kfl/ G5 . ljz] iftM c;f/ sf] / f] kfOF xf] ;\ of wfg uf] 8\bf vfhfsf ?kdf of] kf] Nb] s lbg] rng 5 . kf] Nb] s cfl8nf] x'G5 . k'jf M sf] bf] sf] lk7f] nfO{ £o'df / ftf] x'g] ul/ e'l6G5 . cfjZos : jfb cg';f/ u'lnof] jf g'g xfn] / vfOG5 . s] xL lbg;Dd / fVbf klg k'jf lalu|Fb} g . hl/ +uf] M lh/ Lsf] / } yfg] ;fu xf] hl/ +uf] . kmfu'gb] lv ebf} ;Dd of] ;fu kfOG5 . o;nfO{ e'6] / c08f / fv] / jf cfn';Fu ld;fP/ vfOG5 . le6fldg / vlgh tTj x'G5 o;df .

53

wd{sd{

kz'kltgfy bz{g

54

s;/L ug]{ <

k

z'kltgfysf] dlGb/ / kfz'kt If] q k|frLgsfnb] lv g} ljZje/ sf ;gftg lxGb"sf] >4f / cf: yfsf] s] Gb|laGb' Pj+ kljq tLy{: ynsf ¿kdf / lxcfPsf] 5 . b] jktg, hojfu] Zj/ L, uf} / L3f6, rfjlxn, s'6Daxfn, l;kmn, uf} zfnf, lku+nf: yfg / Zn] idfGts jg cf;kf;sf] ljzfn If] qnfO{ cf] u6] / @^$ x] S6/ sf] If] qkmndf km} lnPsf] kz'klt If] qdf $(@ ;fgf– 7"nf ljleGg z} nLsf d7 dlGb/ , ;Qn, 9'u+ w] f/ f, r} To, b] jfno cflb wfld{s tyf P] ltxfl;s: yn / nueu Ps xhf/ lzjln+u 5g\ . lnR5jLsfnb] lv g} kz'klt If] qsf ?kdf k|l;4 ePsf] o; If] qdf O;fk"j{ t] ;|f ] ztfAbL;Ddsf ljleGg d"lt{x¿ kfOPsf 5g\ . of] If] q sf7df8f} + pkTosfs} k|frLgtd\ wfld{s: yn xf] . cltk|frLg k"hf: yn, d7 dlGb/ / d"lt{x¿ tyf k|frLg clen] vx¿sf] cjl: yltn] ubf{ of] If] q v'nf ;+ux| fno h: t } b] lvG5 . eujfg >Lkz'kltgfysf] lgTok"hfsf qmddf zflnu|fdsf] k"hfsf ;fy} >LoGqdf tflGqs ljlwn] zlQmk"hf ;d] t ul/ g ] x'gfn] / eujfg >Lkz'kltgfynfO{ k|lt jif{ a'4d's6' klx‍{ofpg] ePsfn] klg eujfg\ >Lkz'kltgfy : jo+ wfld{s ;dGjosf] k|lts / x s ] f] kl08t gf/ fo0fk|;fb kf} 8] n atfpF5g\ . ljZj ;Dkbf ;"rLdf ;"rLs[t kz'klt bz{g ug{ ljZje/ sf lxGb' wdf{jnDaLx¿sf] ljz] if 3'OF rf] nfU5 .

To;kl5 klZrd u] 6 glhs} / x s ] f] u0f] z / : sGb s'df/ sf] bz{g ug{k' 5{ . To;kl5 z+s/ frfo{ d7sf] bz{g ug] { . u0f] znfO{ b'af] / n8\8' r9fpg] . wf/ feGbfdfly / x s ] f] rfFug' f/ fo0fsf] dlGb/ sf] bz{g u/ /] ¿b|sf/ Z] j/ sf] bz{gkl5 dfq klZrd d"n 9f] nfsf] bz{g ug{k' 5{ .

To;kl5 ah/ u+ anL xg'dfgsf] bz{g ul/ ;s] / g6] Zj/ sf] bz{g ug] { . To;kl5 lqz"nsf] bz{g ug] { / ;Fu } / x s ] f] cGgk"0f{ dftfsf] bz{g ug] { .

To;kl5 rG8] Zj/ sf] bz{g u/ /] k"j{ lbzfdf / x s ] f] ;"os { f] bz{g ug] { . clg nfn u0f]

zsf] bz{g kl5 dfq af;'sLsf] bz{g ug{ hfg'k5{ . af;'sL gfudf bz{g ug{ ltn, hf} , bxL, b'w, £o" / dx r9fpg' k5{ . To;sf nflu !! ;ob] lv s/ f 8} f}; + Ddsf] ljz] if k"hf x'G5 . ljz] if k"hf gug] { eQmhgn] ;Unf] a] nkft k'hf/ LnfO{ eg] / r9fpg kfpF5g\ . af;'sLsf] bz{g kl5 bfFofafFof a'9flgns07sf] bz{g ug]

{ . lji0f'nfO{ hf} / ltnn] k"hf ug] { . To;kl5 k"jL{åf/ sf] bz{g ug], { e|u+[ L, ci6 lr/ lGhaLsf] bz{g ul/ ;s] kl5 afudlt glbsf] bz{g ug] { . ToxfF 5] pd} / x s ] f] >LoGqsf] bz{gkl5 ;Gtfge/ Z] j/ sf] bz{g ug] { . oxfF

kz'klt bz{g xfdLn] kz'klt w] / } k6s bz{g ul/ ;s] sf 5f} . sf] xL bz{g ug{ hfg] tof/ Ldf x'gx' G' 5 t/ , ljlw k¥'‍ ofP/ s;/ L ug] { eGg] af/ ] kl08t gf/ fo0fk|;fbn] lbPsf] hfgsf/ L cg';f/ , ;a} eGbf klxnf] rf] vf] lgtf] eP/ kz'klt dlGb/ kl/ ;/ k'Ug'k5{ . ToxfF h'Qf rKkn aflx/ vf] n /] ;'/ Iff hfFr u/ fP/ klZrd 9f] sf x'bF } d"n dlGb/ hfg'k5{ . dlGb/ sf] klZrd 9f] s d} f u'¿sf] dlGb/ 5 . h'g u'¿ k"l0f{dfsf lbg dfq v'nf x'G5 . klxn] o;sf] bz{g u/ /] leq hfg'k5{ . kz'kltsf d"n e§x¿ klg klxn] u'¿sf] k"hf u/ /] dfq dlGb/ leq k|j z ] u5{g \ .

dlGb/ v'Ng] ;do l laxfg

$ ah] j|xd d"xt{df kz'kltgfynfO{ hfuf u/fOG5 . l e§åf/f kz'kltgfysf] :gfg u/fO{G5 . l (M#) b]lv !! ah];Dd ;Dk"0f{ åf/x? eQmhgx?sf nflu v'Nnf ul/G5 . o;} ;dodf ljz]if k'hf klg ul/G5 . l To;kl5 afnef]u -xn'jf_ sf] ef]u lbOG5 . l ;"of{:t x'ge' Gbf cfwf 306f cuf8L cf/tL z'? x'G5 . l ljz]if lbg afx]s ;fdfGotf & ah] dlGb/ aGb x'G5 .

55

wd{sd{

kfz'kt If] qsf bz{gLo dlGb/ x¿ jT;n] Zj/ L–cfo{3f6 / e: d Z] j/ sf] aLrdf jfUfdtL lsgf/ df jT;n] Zj/ Lsf] ;'Gb/ b"Ot{ n] dlGb/ 5 . oxfF d"lt{ geP/ oGq dfq 5 / l;l4sfnLsf ?kdf logsf] k"hf x'G5 . jT;n] Zj/ Lsf] hfqf kz'klt If] qdf dgfOg] ;a}e Gbf d'Vo hfqf xf] / of] hfqf k|To] s jif{ r} q s[i0f rt'bz { Lb] lv rf/ lbg;Dd w"dwfdn] dgfOG5 . ljZj?k– d[u: ynLsf] k"j5 { p] df jgsf] aLrdf / fhk"tfgf u'Dah z} nLsf] eJo / ljzfn ljZj¿kf dlGb/ 5 . h+uaxfb'/s f] ;dodf O{= !*^& cl3 g} ag] sf] o; dlGb/ df lzjzlQmsf] / tfj: yfsf] cToGt ljzfn 9nf} 6 ] d"lt{ k|ltli7t 5. of] dlGb/ rf} 3/ fn] 3] l/ Psf] 5 / rf} 3/ fleq rf/ s'gfdf lzjkfj{tL, nIdLgf/ fo0f, ;Ltf/ fd / / fwfs[i0fsf 9nf} 6sf o'und"lt{x¿ yflkPsf 5g\ . cgGtgf/ fo0f–jT;n] Zj/ Lsf] dlGb/ ;uF } ;Dk"0f{ ¿kdf 6] / fsf] 6faf6 ag] sf] cgGtgf/ fo0fsf] plePsf] ljzfn d"lt{ 5 . dNnsfnsf] of] d"lt{ kfz'kt If] qsf] bz{gLo d"lt{x¿ dWo] Ps xf] . ls/ ft] Zj/ dxfb] j–kz'klt dlGb/ kf/ L k§L, uf} / L3f6sf] dfly 8fF8fdf / x s ] f] ls/ ft] Zj/ dlGb/ kfz'kt If] qsf] csf] {bz{g ug} {kg] {dlGb/ xf] . o;sf] : yfkgf ls/ ftsflng kfnfdf ePsf] xf] . oxfF eujfg z+s/ n ] ls/ ft] Zj/ sf] ¿k wf/ 0f u/ /] a;] sf] x'gfn] dlGb/ sf] gfd ls/ ft] Zj/ / xg uPsf] ls+jbGtL 5 . u'Xo] Zj/ L–afudtL gbLsf] blIf0fL lsgf/ fdf of] dlGb/ cjl: yt 5 . ;tLb] jLsf] u'Åo ktg ePsf] 7fpFdf pTkGg ePsL b] jL x'gfn] u'Åo] Zj/ L gfd / xg uPsf] ljZjf; ul/ G5 . of] : yfgdf ;j{ky| d t] QL;sf] 6L b] jtfx¿ k"hf–cf/ fwgf u/ s ] f] ljZjf; klg 5 . 36: yfkgfb] lv g} u'Åo]Zj/ Ldf ljz] if k"hf cf/ fwgf ul/ G5 . oxfF b]j Lx¿sf] s'g } d"lt{ 5} g . ;tLb] jLsf] u'xo\ ktg ePsf] : yfgdf dlGb/ sf] ue{ux[ 5 . ToxfF Pp6f ;fgf] b'nf] dfq 5 hxf rfFbLsf] snzn] 9flsPsf] dlGb/ leqsf] hnk"0f{ s'08nfO{ >4fn'x¿ b] jLsf ¿kdf k"hf ug] {ub{5g\ . u'Åo]Zj/ Lsf] dlxdf g] kfn dfxfTDo, lxdjTv08, >L: j: yfgL j|tsyf cflbdf atfOPsf] 5 . of] zlQmkL7 k'‍/ f0fdf jl0f{t %! zlQmkL7x¿ dWo] Ps ePsf] n ] ;f/ f ;+;f/ sf wdf{nDaLx¿sf nflu ljz] if k'hgLo / x s ] f] 5 . oxfF ;tLb] jLsf] of] gL ktg ePsf] lsDablGt 5 . o: t } af} 4 tGqsf] : j¿kljxLg : j¿k jf : sGbk'/ f0fsf] lxdjTv08 -g] kfn dxfTDodf_df tyf efiff j+zfjnLdf, ;tLb] jLsf] u'Åoktg ePsf] Zn] idfGts jgdf eujtL u'Åo]Zj/ Lsf] pTklQ ePsf] j0f{g kfOG5 . k/ Dk/ fcg';f/ k'/ f0fdf pNn] lvt o; kL7sf] : j¿k klxn] hndUg ¿kdf u'Kt g} lyof] kl5 k|tfk dNn -g] =;=+ &^@-&($_ sf ;dsfnLg tflGqs g/ l;+x 7fs'/n ] u'Åob]j Lsf] o; : yfgdf bz{g kfP/ k"hf–pkf;gf u/ s ] f] j0f{g kfOG5 . u'Åo]Zj/ L eg] sf] / Ú uÅ' ofÚ zlQmsf gfdn] lrlgg] : qL, k'?if / gk'; + s;d] taf6 jGbgLo Ú sfnLÚ : j¿kdf lognfO{ Ú uÅ' o sfnLÚ ;d] t elgG5 .

56

s] xL a] / cf/ fd ug] { .

To;kl5 >Ls[i0fsf] bz{g ug] { / NofPsf] gl/ jn km'6fpg] . kz'klt dlGb/ kl/ ;/ leq oxL dfq gl/ jn km'6fpg kfOG5 . >Ls[i0fsf] bz{gkl5 e} / jsf] bz{g ug] { .

To;kl5 pGdQ e} / jsf] bz{g ul/ ;s] kl5 zx;| lnËsf] bz{g ug] { . zx;| lnËdf a]nkft,

ltn, hf} , bxL, b'w, £o" / dx r9fpg'k5{ .

To;kl5 gjb'uf{sf] bz{g u/ /] gju|xsf] k"hf ug] { . kz'klt dlGb/ blIf0f–klZrd k§L

/ x s ] f] jgu|xdf ltn, hf} , bxL, b'w, £o" / dx r9fpg'k5{ .

To;kl5 glGbZj/ xg'dfg / gGbLnfO{ 3'Dg] . ca blIf0f 9f] sfaf6 dlGb/ nfO{ lrxfpg] dfq km] l/ k"j{ hfg] , ToxfF klg lrxfpg] / blIf0f x'bF } k"jå{ f/ df hfg] . k"jå{ f/ ;uF } / x s ] f] tTk'¿ifsf] bz{g ug] { clg km] l/ bfofFxbF' } klZrd cfpg'k5{ . ca pQ/ df afdb] jsf] bz{g ul/ ;s] kl5 dlGb/ sf] l;F8L cf] ln{g ] km] l/ k] 6Ldf gr9\g ] . aflx/ af6} k"jd{ f uP/ k"jL{åf/ af6 / fd|f ; ] uF bz{g ug] { . lzjsf] Wofg ug] { gf/ fo0fsf] bz{g ug], { uh'/ sf] bz{g ug] { / lzjsf] ;fIfft ¿k ;lDemg] . olt u/ k] l5 kz'klt dlGb/ kl/ ;/ leqsf] k"hf / bz{g k"0f{ x'G5 . ljz] if u/ L lzj/ fqL tyf k"l0f{dfsf] lbg bz{g u/ ] k"0o x'g ] ljZjf; 5 . k"l0f{dfsf] lbg laxfgb] lv a] ns ' f;Dd} k"hf u/ ] ;fIfft lzjhLsf] bzg{ kfOG5 eGg] ljZjf; 5 . ljz] if k"hf gu/ d] f afz'sL / kz'kltdf gRofltPsf] km"n a] nkq nUof} dlGb/ df e§sf ;xfosx¿n] r9fOlbG5g\ . kz'kltsf] d"n dlGb/ leq} k;] / k"hf tyf bz{g ug{ e§afx] s s;} n ] klg kfpFb g} g\ .

h: tf] ;s ' } ljz] if k"hf eP klg dlGb/ sf] d"n 9f] sfaf6 dfq bz{g ug{ kfpg] k/ Dk/ f 5 . kz'klt dlGb/ leq ;f9] % ah] ah] b l] v * ah] ;Dd ljz] if cf/ tL x'G5 . of] dlGb/ sf e§x¿n] g } ug] { cf/ tL xf] . oltv] / dlGb/ sf rf/ } 9f] sf v'Nnf x'G5 . o: t } k'; dlxgfdf / fltsf] ;dodf ljz] if k"hf x'G5 . h'g pHofnf] x'bF f ;lsG5 . ljz] if k"hf kz'kltgfydf ljz] if k"hf ug{ u/ fpg rfxg] eQmhgx¿n] dlGb/ sf] klZrdL åf/ df / x s ] f] sf] ifsf] sfof{nodf cfkm"n ] u/ fpg rfx] sf] ljz] if k"hfsf] / l;b cl3Nnf] lbg a] ns ' f % ah] cufl8 g} sf6\gk' 5{ . k|foM ljz] if k"hf !! ;o b] lv ! s/ f 8] ;Ddsf] x'g ] u/ s ] f] 5 . ljz] if k"hfsf] nflu stf{ b} lgs laxfg (M@) b] lv !)M$% ah] ;Dd pkl: yt eO;Sg'kg]5 { . tf] lsPsf] ldlt / ;dodf stf{ pkl: yt gePdf klg k"hf eg] / f l] sg] 5} g . cfkm"n ] e'Qmfg u/ s ] f] / l;b lnFbf g] kfnL ¿k} ofF, ef/ tLo ¿k} ofF jf cGo s'g d'bf| df xf] / l;bdf : ki6 u/ L lng'kg] { x'G5 .

dlGb/ kl/ ;/ leq s'g } klg d"lt{ / b] jtfnfO{ k"hf ubf{ k} ;f gr9fpg] . bfgkfqdf dfq bfg / blIf0ff v;fNg'k5{ . blIf0ff, e] 6L / sd k"hf/ L jf cGo s'g } JolQm jf kIfnfO{ xftdf glbO e] 6L kfqdf v;fNg] . >Lkz'kltgfysf] dlGb/ tyf dlGb/ k|fu+0fleq / x s ] f cGo d7dlGb/ df ;'g, rfFbL h: tf ax'dN" o wft'n ] ag] sf] ;fdfg jf efF8fs'8f jf a: q nufot cGo lhlG; ;fdfg r9fpg rfx] df sf] ifsf] klZrdLåf/ df / x s ] f] sfof{nodf btf{ u/ L / l;b lnP/ dfq r9fpg' k5{ . k"hf ;fdfu|L kz'klt If] qdf / x s ] f k;nx¿af6 vl/ b ubf{ z'åtf eP gePsf] x] / L sf] ifaf6 cg'dlt lnPsf] 5, 5} g ;f] x] / L vl/ b ug{k' g]5 { . sf] ifn] cg'dlt glbPsf k"hf ;fdfu|L dlGb/ leq n} hfg kfOGg . kz'kltgfy dlGb/ tyf dlGb/ k|fu+0fdf r9fpg] / r9fOPsf gub, lhlG;,kmnkm"n k"hf

ljz]if k"hfsf nflu slDtdf !! ;o ¿k}ofFbl] v ;'¿ x'G5 . l ljNjfk{0f l

j]nkq Pjd\ b"Uwfk{0f k~rfd[t k"hf l afnef]u;lxt k~rfd[t k"hf l ?b|L / afnef]u;lxt k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L / k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L nutef]u;lxt k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L nutef]u / ljz]if b"Uw :gfg;lxt k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L k"/fef]u;lxt k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L k"/fef]u ;jfnfv aQL;lxt k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L, ;jfnfv aQL, b[li6;lxtsf] k"/ fef] u ;d]t k~rfd[t k"hf l n3'?b|L, ;jfnfv aQL, xjg / b[li6;lxtsf] k"/fefu ;d]t k~rfd[t k"hf l Ps lbj;Lo dxf?b|L l Psfbz lbj;Lo dxf?b|L l Psfbz lbj;Lo clt?b|L l

;fdfu|L cfbL ;j} ;'/ Iff hfFr u/ /] dfq leq n} hfg kfOG5 . dlGb/ / dlGb/ k|fu+ 0fdf lgif] w ul/ Psf ;fdfgx¿ ;'/ Iff hfFr : yn glhs} lgz'Ns ns/ sf] Joj: yf u/ s ] f] 5 . kz'kltgfysf] ;a} d7dlGb/ x¿sf] bz{g ul/ ;s] kl5 klZrd åf/ af6 aflx/ lg: sbf 9f] sfsf] 5] paf6} uh'/ sf] bz{g ul/ … ho ef] n ]Ú egL 7"nf] : j/ df cfx\jfg ug'k{ 5{ .

57

cWofTd

cfWoflTds

ko{6g

b]je"ld g]kfndf cfWoflTds ko{6gsf] k|r/' ;+efjgf 5 .

Wofg / of]u dfkm{t dfgl;s zflGt vf]Hg cfpg] ko{6ssf] ;+Vof a;]g{ L a9\bf] 5 . g]kfnn] cfWoflTds ko{6g k|f8] S6nfO{ ljZj ahf/df k|fyldstf;fy k:sg' k5{ .

bf

z{lgs c/ ljGbn] eg] sf 5g\, … k/ dfTdfn] lbPsf pknlAw, k|ltef, lzIff / ef} lts ;fwg ;a} pxfFs} x'g \ . kl/ jf/ kfNg hlt cfjZos k5{ Tolt dfq d] / f ] xf] , afFsL ;a} eujfgs} nflu pkof] u x'gk' 5{ . ;'v;on / ljnf;df vr{ u/ +] eg] d rf] / x' F .Ú l7s} eg] sf x'g\ pgn] . dgsf] zflGt ljgf hLjg ;fy{s aGb} g . dfgl;s cfgGbsf] vf] hLdf bf} l8Fbfbf} l8+b } dfG5] czfGt aG5 . wg sdfpF5, gfd sdfpF5 t/ zflGt sdfpFb g} . jf: tjdf dxTjfsf+Iff g} b'Mvsf] d'xfg xf] . ;'vsf] vf] hLdf ;+;f/ e/ Wofg / of] usf] cEof; x'bF } cfPsf] 5 . cr] n cfWoflTds 1fg a6'Ng klg 3'dlkm/ ul/ G5 . o: tf 3'dGt] sf] ;+Vof yf] / } 5 t/ o; ju{sf ko{6s a9L vrf{n' / km';l{ bnf x'G5g\ . o;af6 d'ns ' n] / fd|f ] ljb] zL d'bf| cfh{g ug{ ;S5 .

Wofg–;'v / cfgGb k|flKtsf] dfWod xf] .

Wofg r] tgfaf6 k/ dr] tgfsf] ofqf xf] . : j: y z/ L/ / : j: y dg;Fu } cfWoflTds cg'el" t ldN5 . g] kfndf Wofg / of] udfkm{t dfgl;s zflGt vf] Hg cfpg] sf] ;+Vof a9\bf] 5 . To;f]

58

;]tf] u'Daf

cf]zf] tkf]jg

t b] je"dL g] kfnsf lxdfn, kxf8 / t/ fO{ ;a} lt/ cfWoflTds ko{6gsf] k|r/' ;+efjgf 5 . lxGb' / af} 4 wd{sf dlGb/ df dfq xf] Og, / f/ f / vKt8 h: tf e"M: ju{df ;d] t of] u / Wofg u/ fpg ;lsG5 . g] kfnsf k|dv ' ;x/ x¿ sf7df8f}, + kf] v/ f, lrtjg, n'lDagLdf Wofg s] Gb|x¿ v'n s ] f 5g\ . ltgn] Ps lbgb] lv dlxgf}; + Ddsf] Kofs] h agfPsf 5g\ . ToxfF ;fsfxf/ L ef] hg u/ /] cWoflTds cEof; ul/ G5 . ljkZogf Wofgs] Gb| afx] s c? ;+: yfn] lglZrt z'Ns tf] s /] ko{6snfO{ ;xefuL u/ fpF5g\ . g] kfn of] u / Wofgsf] tkf] el" d xf] . cWofTd cEof; ug} { eg] / ef/ tsf] Clifs] zdf 7"nf] ;+Vofdf ljb] zL k'U5g\ .

To: t } ca: yf g] kfndf klg ;[hgf ug{ ;lsG5 . To;sf nflu g] kfnn] cfWoflTds ko{6g k|f 8] S6nfO{ ljZj ahf/ df k|fyldstf;fy k: sg' k5{ . l;Ëf] g] kfn g} cfWoflTds e"dL xf] . cf] zf] tkf] jg cf] zf] tkf] jg sf7df8f}s + f] gfufh'g{ h+undf cjl: yt cGt/ fl{ i6«o sDo'g xf] . cf] zf] sf] ;dflw: yn, / hgLz Wofg

skg u'Daf

/fdu|fd r}To

s] Gb|, lzjk'/ L afafsf] Wofg dlGb/ oxfFsf d'Vo cfsif{0f x'g \ . snsn aUg] em/ gfn] dg nf] EofpF5 . tkf] jgdf cf] zf] n ] k|ltkfbg u/ s ] f Wofg ljlw l;sfOG5 .

Wofg ug]x { ¿sf nflu tkf] jgdf vfg] / a: g ] / fd|f ] Joj:yf 5 . ToxfF 7"nf] ;+Vofdf ljb]zL cfpF5g\ . sltko t dlxgf}+ a: 5g\ . tkf]jgdf laxfg of]ufEof;af6

;fwgf ;'? x'G5 . To;kl5 ;lqmo Wofgsf] cEof; x'bF } df} g Wofg cflb u/ fOG5 . ;fFem s'08lngL Wofgkl5 cf/ tL x'G5 . ef] hgkl5 / flt Wofg, ;+sLt{g x'G5 . o;/ L laxfg ^ b]lv

a] ns ' f ( ah] ;Dddf ;fwgfd} ;do ljtfOG5 . c/ ljGb cf>d sf7df8f}s + f] yfgsf] 6 r] skf] : 6 dfly … c/ ljGb of] u dlGb/ Ú 5 . ToxfF sd{of] u / cWofTdsf] cEof; ul/ G5 . cf>d -!,$*) ld6/ _ @@ / f k] gLdf km} n s ] f] 5 . cf>d xftfdf cUof{lgs t/ sf/ L pTkfbg ul/ G5 .

ToxfF yfª\sf snf / e/ tgf6\ od\ l;sfOG5 .

59

cWofTd

kf]v/f

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kfnL kqsfl/ tf hutsf nf] slk|o sf6'l{ gi6 / fh] z s] ;Lsf] hLjgdf klxnf]k 6s lnlvt kf7s k|ltlqmof k|fKt eof] –)%@ ;fndf . emfkfnL / fhgLlt1 Pj+ lrGts l;s] k|;fOFn ] n] vs

] f] kq sflGtk'/ b} lgsdf k|sflzt eof] . k|;fOFn ] 3f]i f0ff u/ s ] f lyP, … Ps lbg / fh] z klg z+s/ h: t } aGg] 5g\ .Ú z+s/ Ps hgf ef/ tLo sf6'l{ gi6sf] gfd . sf6'l{ gi6 cf/ s ] nId0f eGbf cufl8 rlr{t lyP pgL . vf;df cf/ =s =] nId0faf6} k|efljt eP/ sf6'g{ lt/ nfu]s f snfsf/ x'g\ s]; L . s] lyof] t Tof] sf6'g{ df < g]k fndf )%) ;fnsf] af9Ln] k'nx¿ eTsfPsf] lyof] , 7"nf] Iflt k'¥ofPsf] lyof] . / fxtsf] dfu al9/ x s ] f a] nf k|wfgdGqL lul/ hfk|;fb sf] O/ fnf x] lnsK6/ df uP/ efif0f u/ ] . ToxL ljifodf s] Gb|Lt eP/ s] ;Ln] sf6'g{ agfP . To;df k|wfgdGqL sf] O/ fnf / pgsf ;'/ IffsdL{ bf} l8/ x s ] f] / kl5kl5 ufpFn n ] ] nv] 6 s ] f] b[Zo 5 . ;'/ IffsdL{ eGb} 5g\, … d n } ] t xh'/ nfO{ eg] s } lyPF, oxfF cfpFbf sd;] sd s] xL la: s6' eP klg Nofpg'k5{ .Ú efif0f dfq / fxt lnP/ uPsf k|wfgdGqLdflysf] ltvf] Jo+ulrq b] v k] l5 la/ fdL eP/ cf/ fd ul/ / x s ] f k|;fO{n F ] xfF;f] yfDg ;s] gg\ . k|ltlqmof gn] lv pgsf] dgn] dfg] g . s]; Lsf] sf6'g{ ;+ux| sf] clGtd kftf] df k9\g kfOG5 Tof] k|ltlqmof . cfh;Dd pgn] xhf/ fs + } f] ;+Vofdf sf6'g{ agfO;s] . wfl/ nf, rf] l6nf / k] lrnf x'G5g\ pgsf sf6'g{ . ltgdf cfFvf kg]l { jlQs} To;df n] lvPsf zAb kl9 gEofpFb}

xfF;f] sf] kmf] xf] / f 5'6g\ yfN5 . slxn] sflxF t k]6 ldlr ldlr xfF:g ' k5{ . ;fdflhs r] t ePsf k|efjzfnL sf6'l{ gi6 x'g–\ / fh] z s] ;L . kqsfl/ tfsf] k': ts eG5–… Pp6f tl: a/ n ] xhf/ zAb af] N5 .Ú To;f] eP sf6'g{ n] slt zAb af] Nnf < xhf/ f +} zAbdf JoQm ug{ g;lsg] s'/ f Pp6} sf6'g{ n] af] N5 . To;} n ] sf6'g{ k|efjsf/ L ;~rf/ dfWod xf] . Jo+Uo ldl;Psf lrqn] lj;+utL lj?4 s8f k|xf/ u5{g \ . … d hflto, wfld{s / n}l + us ;b\efj ge8\lsof] ;\ eg] / cfkm\gf nflu cfkm} +nId0f / v ] f tof/ u5' { . ;b\efjsf] ;Ldf gf3\g' x'bF g} eGg]d f xfdL ;r] t x'g' k5{Ú , pgL eG5g\ . e|i6frf/ Lsf] af] njfnf ePsf] d'ns ' sf6'g{ ;[hgfsf lx;fan] pa{/ dflgG5 . e|i6frf/ , a] lylt / lj;+utL lj?4} xf] snfsf/ n ] wfaf af] Ng] . d'ns ' nfO{ dfof ug]{ snfsf/ ;w} +Gofok"0f{ ;dfhsf] kIfdf jsfnt u5{ . o; lx;fan] / fh] z klg ;dfh ;'wf/ cleoGtf x'g \ . cr] n pgL afx|v/ L 86sd / cGgk"0f{ kf] i6 b} lgssf nflu sf6'g{ agfpF5g\ . pgn] sf6'g{ ofqfdf w] / } cf/ f ]x– cj/ f x] kf/ u/ s ] f 5g\ . ;j{;fwf/ 0faf6 : ofaf;L kfP klg km6fxfx¿af6 wDsL / vKsL Joxf] g{' k/ s ] f] 5 . pgsf] Jofj;flos sf6'g{ ofqf sflGtk'/ b} lgsaf6 ;'? ePsf] lyof] . To;f] t ljBfno hLjgb] lv g} lrqsnfdf ?lr lyof] . sIff # k9\b v } / ] L lrq agfP/ / fli6«o: t/ df k'/i s[t ePsf lyP . pgsf] klxnf] sf6'g{ / fOlhª g] kfndf 5flkPsf] lyof] @)$* ;fndf . pgn] x'nfsaf6 d o: tf] sf6'g{ agfpg ;S5' eg] / ;DkfbsnfO{ kq k7fPsf lyP . To;sf] s] xL lbgkl5 ;Dkfbs Zofdaxfb'/ s] ;Lsf] kmf] g cfof] / Tof] sf6'g{

65

JolQmlrq se/ k] hd} 5flkof] . To;df r'gfjsf] l6s6 kfpg kf6L{ sfof{nodf ePsf] le8 b] lvG5 . … klxnf] sf6'g{ 5flkFbf cfkm"nfO{ ;] lnla|6L g} ;Dem]Ú + , s] ;L d': s/' fpF5g\, … sf6'g{ agfpFbf dgdf cfgGb ldN5 .Ú ;/ sf/ L ldl8of ePsfn] uf] / vfkq ;+: yfgdf : jtGq ?kdf sf6'g{ agfpg kfFOb{ g} lyof] . ToxfF cl8Pg pgsf] dg . cfkm\g } dgnfO{ aGwsL / fv] / s;} n ] ;[hgf ug{ ;Sb} g . sflGtk'/ b} lgssf] k|sfzg cf/ De )$( kmfu'g & b] lv x'g yfNof] .

To;df … uha 5 af ÛÚ : tDedf lbglbg} sf6'g{ agfpg yfn] pgL . pgn] sflGtk'/ sf] gd'gf -8dL_ c+sd} sf6'g{ agfPsf lyP .

To;a] nf sflGtk'/ sf ;Dkfbs lyP of] u z ] pkfWofo -hf] xfn cd] l/ sfdf 5g\_ . sf6'g{ snfdf ;w} + … kmnfgf] Ú nfO{ pEofpg s] ;Ln] ;fwf/ 0f dfG5] sf #% j6f lrq agfPsf lyP, To;dWo] Pp6fnfO{ ;Dkfbs pkfWofo;Fu a;]/ 5gf] 6 u/ ] . h'g kmnfgf] emg\ emg\ tGg]/ L eP/ cfh ko{Gt va/ bf/ L ul/ / x s ] f] 5 . kmnfgf] gfpF s;n] / flvlbof] t < al/ i7 kqsf/ sgsdl0f lblIftn] … kmnfgf] Ú gfpF h'/ fOlbPsf lyP . sflGtk'/ kl5 pgn] s] xL ;do lxdfn va/ klqsfdf klg sf6'g{ agfP . ;do;Fu } sflGtk'/ af6 >L;u/ dfyf, OlG8k] G8] G6 ljSnL, b[li6 ;fKtflxs, lxdfn va/ klqsf, km] l/ sflGtk'/ , b} lgsL, gful/ s b} lgs, ;] tf] kf6L x'bF } afx|v/ L;Dd cfOk'Ubf pgn] w] / } uxlsnf sf6'g{ agfP . ltgn] hghgsf dgdgdf 7"nf] k|efj 5f8] sf 5g\ . kqsfl/ tf Pj+ snfsf] 1fg / Jo+Uo r]t gf ePsf] snfsf/ n ] dfq / fd|f ] s[lt ;[hgf ug{ ;S5 . x/ s ] snfsf/ sf] cf–cfkm\g } z} nL x'G5 . xfd|f d] f g] tfx¿sf] sf6'g{ w] / } agfOG5 . ltgnfO{ 7\ofSs} lrGg ;Sg] agfpg' kg] {s] ;L atfpF5g\ . g] tfsf] cg'xf/ / lhp8fn Vofn ul/ G5 . lul/ hfk|;fbsf] nfdf] gfs, dfwj g] kfnsf] h'uF f, emngfy vgfnsf] k'Ss ufnf, k|r08sf afSnf h'uF f / k5fl8 kms]s

{ f] skfn, 8f= afa'/ fdsf] lrpF8f] / h'uF f, b] pjfsf] cfFvL e'OF 7"nf] , rf/ kf6] k|m d] sf] rZdf / lqsf] 0ffTds cf] 7sf] cfs[lt agfOG5 . ca … kmnfgf] Ú sf6'g{ df dfq l;ldt / x g] , pBdL / fh] z s] ;Lsf] a|f08 g} alg;Sof] . pgL kmnfgf] a|f08d} n'uf / skmL3/ rnfpF5g\ . pgsf] kmf] 6f] Anu kmnfgf] 86sd klg rfn' 5 . 6\jL6/ xof08n … kmnfgf] Ú df ;jf b'O{ nfv kmnf] c/ 5g\ . cfd dfG5]n ] pgsf] sf6'l{ gi6 cjtf/ dfq lrg]s f 5g\ . pgL rflxF sf6'l{ gi6 eGbf a9L pBdLsf ?kdf km} lnFb5 } g\ . : jb] zdf dfq xf] Og, ljb] zdf ;d] t pgsf] pBf] u lj: tf/ x'bF 5 } . pgsf] kmnfgf] skmL3/ / kmnfgf] n'ufdf k|ToIf $) hgfn] / f h ] uf/ L kfPsf 5g\ . To;} u/ L pgn] ug] {cfp6 ;f] l;{ª dfkm{t klg w] / n } ] sfd kfPsf 5g\ . pgs} ;fem] bf/ L / x s ] f] afx|v/ L 86sddf klg #% kqsf/ Jo: t 5g\ . pgL b'O{ jif{leq gjnk/ f;Ldf kmnfgf] l/ ;f]6 { agfpg xf] djs{ ub}5 { g\ . x] bf{x b] {} pBdL ag] / fh] z s] ;L kmnfgf] n'ufdf pgL ljz] iftM l6z{6 / x'8L pTkfbg u5{g \ . To;df g] kfnLkg emNsg] pgsf lrq / snfTds cIf/ x'G5g\ . To;sf () k|ltzt u|fxs g] kfnL x'g \ . g] kfndf t nufpg] g} eP, ljb] z sf] ; n ] L n} hfg' kbf{ klg g] kfnLx¿ kmnfgf] n'uf g} nfG5g\ . pBdn] ;Gt'li6 lbnfPsf] 5 pgnfO{ . kmnfgf] n'uf ;g\ @)!@ df

66

vf] n s ] f x'g \ . To;sf] sf/ vfgf xl/ l;l4, nlntk'/ df 5 . cfp6n] 6 rflxF xl/ l;4L km\ofS6«L, ;'Gwf/ fsf] l;len 6]8 « ;] G6/ / k'Nrf] ssf] ;femf nfOgdf 5 . k'Nrf] s, ;femf oftfoft k|fu+ 0fd} 5 kmnfgf] skmL 3/ klg . of] )&@ ebf} bl ] v ;~rfngdf cfPsf] xf] h;n] cUof{lgs skmL k|j4{g u5{ . nlntk'/ sf] 7"nf b'nª {' If] qdf pTkflbt skmL vkt ul/ G5 . pgsf] / ]i6'/F fdf emfg] sf] dd / skmL a9L ?rfOPsf kl/ sf/ df k5{g \ . … uo| fa PG8 uf]Ú eGb} skmL a] Rg sf7df8f}d +f % j6f k|mG ] rfOh lbg] pgsf] of] hgf 5 . … w/ fg, kf] v/ f, j'6jn / lrtjgaf6 klg cfp6n] 6 vf] Ng] dfu cfPsf] 5Ú , pgL eG5g\, … t/ , xfdL xtfl/ Psf 5} gf} + .Ú o'/ f k] cfp6n] 6sf] nflu eg] kmnfgf] n'ufsf] tof/ L e} / x s ] f] 5 . n'uf;Fu } skmL3/ klg hf] 8b\ } nfg] of] hgfdf 5g\ s] ;L . pBdL s] ;Lsf] dGq 5– klxnf cfkm'kl| t OdfGbf/ aGg' k5{ . Jofkf/ df klg OdfGbf/ Ltf / w} o{ x'gk' 5{ . clg u'0f: t/ sfod / fvL u|fxsnfO{ v'zL kf/ ,] k} ;f t cfkm} +al;{G5 . g] kfnL pTkfbg ljb] zdf : yflkt u/ fpg] pgsf] k|of; k|z; + fof] Uo 5 . pgsf] pBdzLntfsf] syfn] w] / n } fO{ k| l] / t ug]5 { . ax'dv ' L k|ltefsf wgL x'g\ pgL . kmf] 6f] uf| kmL pgsf] zf} v . sflGtk'/ sf] zlgaf/ ] kl/ lzi6f+s sf] ; n ] Ldf ;g\ @))! b] lv ;g\ @))& ;Dd … d /] f] g] kfnÚ : tDedf g] kfnsf] Nof08: s k] , hLjgz} nL / ;+: sl[ t emNsg] pgsf tl: a/ 5flkP . kmf] 6f]; uF } uLtsf] efsf ldnfPsf] zLif{s v'a dL7f] x'GYof] .

3'dlkm/ df klg c;fWo} ?lr / fV5g\ pgL . cGgk"0f{, d'lQmgfy, sfnfkTy/ , / f/ ftfn, dfg;/ f j] / w] / l} t/ kbofqf ul/ ;s] . a] nfa] nfdf kl/ jfl/ s ofqf klg u5{g \ . ofqfsf / f d] f~rs If0fx¿nfO{ dgdf dfq} xf] Og, Sofd] / fdf klg ;+ux| u5{g \ . kmf] 6f] lvRg} eg] / sfnfkTy/ sf]

lr;f] df * 3G6f;Dd a;]s f] If0f la;{g ;lsPnf / Û To: t } % lbg;Dd s'bf{ klg dfg;/ f j] / df s} nfzsf] 6'Kkf] dfq} lvr] / kms{g' kbf{sf] clngf] If0f dgdf cfn} 5 . kmf] 6f] uf| kmLsf nflu x] ln6'/ ;d] t u5{g \ . kmnfgf] 86sdn] pgsf] kmf] 6f] uf| kmL snf emNsfpF5 . pgL d'ns ' leq a/ fa ] / 3'ld/ xG5g\ . pgnfO{ k'luxfnf}+ h: tf] nfu] sf] e'M: ju{ xf] – vKt8 . pgsf] zf} v ;+uLtdf klg 5 . uLt u'gu'gfpF5g\ . g]k Yosf ufos cd[t u'?ª, cfefif, ;+ho >] i7nufot;Fu pgsf] / fd|f ] lxdlrd 5 . To;afx]s d'ns ' sf d'wG{ o ;|i6fx¿ / fi6«slj dfwjk|;fb l3ld/ ,] cDa/ u'?ªnufot;Fusf] dgUo

e] 63f6af6 pgn] w] / } 1fg a6'n s ] f 5g\ . w] / n } ] yfxf gkfPsf] pgsf] csf] { zf} v xf] –ufog . pgsf] : j/ df cfw'lgs uLt / s ] 8] 8{ 5g\ . ;g\ !(() lt/ / l ] 8of]d f klg aHy] tL . … t/ yf] / Ú} plg eG5g\ . pgn] cfkm} +n] v ,] cfkm} +;+uLt e/ ] / cfkm} +ufP . ;+uLt cfkm\gf] ljwf xf]O g eGg] nfu] kl5 pgn] ufpg 5f] l8lbP . pgnfO{ nfU5– kmf] 6f]u f| kmL, lrqsfl/ tf / ;+uLt lagf pgsf] ;+;f/ rNb}g . k|sl[ tsf] ;fldKotfn] pgnfO{ snfsf/ agfof] . pgL sf7df8f}s + f] n} grf} / df hGd] ÷x's {] klg : sn ' df ldg krf;sf] ljbf x'bF f k'Vof}n { L ynf] ;] x/ L -gjnk/ f;L_ k'Uy] . gf/ fo0fLsf] lsgf/ } lsgf/ 8'Ny] . yf? ;d'bfo;Fu p7a; uy] { . pgsf] ufpFdf yf? / s'dfnsf a: tL 5g\ . pgL yf? efiff yf? ;/ x g} af] N5g\ . … slxn]s fxL+ cfkm"nfO{ yf? atfpFbf kTofpF5g\ klgÚ pgL v'zL JoSt u5{g \ . afNosfndf / dfPsf] ToxL gf/ fo0fL lsgf/ df … kmnfgf] l/ ;f] 6Ú{ vf] Ng] ;kgf 5 pgsf] . Knflgª ug{, gf/ fo0fLsf] lr;f]d f / dfpg lxhf]c fh klg a/ f a] / Tot} k'U5g\ . ;]x / LnfO{ ko{6gwfd agfpg] pgsf] nIo 5 . pgn] b'O{ bzs nfdf] hfkfgL

gful/ sx¿;Fusf] ;+utaf6 cltly ;Tsf/ / ;]j fsf] dxTj a'em]s f x'g \ . ldl8ofdf 5Fb } ljutdf pgL 6«fG; lxdfnog 6';,{ xf]6 n Pe/ i] 6 Eo" / ;"o{ 6«feN;df sfd uy] {. b'O{ bzsdf pgn] xl: k6fln6L lalhg] z / fd|/ L a'em] . pBdLsf ?kdf : yflkt e} ;s] klg pgnfO{ lrgf/ L lbnfPsf] sf6'g{ n] g} xf] . pgL eG5g\, … lbdfu / xft rn'~h]n sf6'g{ agfpF5 ' .Ú kms]/ { x] bf{ lrGts l;s] k|;fO{s F f] cg'dfg ;xL ;flat eof] . pgsf] cflzafb{ nfUof] s] ;LnfO{ . To;} n ] t kmnfgf] ag] / kqsfl/ tfsf] km"naf/ Ldf dUdufpFb 5 } g\ / fh] z s] ;L . pgnfO{ ;kmntfsf] z'esfdgf Û

cljid/ 0fLo If0f l d} n ] sflGtk'/ df

sf6'g{ agfpg yfn] sf] b'O{ jif{;Dd w] / n } fO{ sf6'l{ gi6 / fh] z s] ;L d} x'F eGg] yfxf lyPg\ .

6«fen Ph] G;Lsf] sfddf Psk6s ljdfg: yn k'u s ] f a] nf b'O{ aif{;Dd ;Fu } sfd u/ s ] f ToxfFsf Ps sd{rf/ Ln] dnfO{ eg] , … / fh] zhL Û x] g; {' \ t of] dfG5] n ] uHha sf6'g{ agfpF5 . ;Fw } Pp6} n ] agfpF5 .Ú pgsf s'/ f ;'g /] d dgdg} xfF; ] . l d] / L hLjg;fyL lk|of yfkf g] kfn jfo'; j ] fsf] jl/ i7 Po/ xf]: 6 ; ] x'g \ . lax] cl3 6«fen Ph] G;Ldf sfd ug] { ePsfn] pgL;Fu b] ve] 6 e} / xGYof] . xfd|f ] af] nrfn eg] ePsf] lyPg . pgn] klg $ jif{kl5 dfq yfxf kfOg\ ls sf6'l{ gi6 / fh] z s] ;L d} x'F eGg] . l Psk6s sflGtk'/ / sf7df8f} + kf] i6df ;':t f cltqmd0f u/

s ] f] sf6'g{ 5flkof] . To;df ef/ tLo k|wfgdGqL dgdf] xg l;+x g]k fndf a;]s f] / v'§f rflxF cfkm\ gf] lt/ / fv] sf] b] vfOPsf] 5 . clg To;df n] lvPsf] 5 … ltd|f ] 7fpFdf d} n ] 6] s ] s ] f] 5} g .Ú Tof] 5flkPkl5 ef/ tLo b'tfjf;af6 ælkt kqsfl/ tf eof] Æ eGg] cf/ f k] nufpFb} s8f kq cfof] / sflGtk'/ df 5flkof] . l / fhfaf6 s' ePkl5 )^@÷)^# sf] cfGbf] ngtfsf df] afOn kmf]g klg aGb eof] . ;]g fsf dfG5] / fh] z s] ;L vf] O{ eGb} sflGtk'/ df cfP . pgn] / fhf / ;] gf lj/ f w] L sf6'g{ gagfpg ;+b z ] lbP . s' u/ s ] f] bf] ;f| ] lbg sf6'g{' 5flkof] –ue{jtL >LdtLsf nflu PDa'n G] ; lng bf}8 bF } u/ ]sf] . Tolta] nf ljb] zL ldl8ofn] n] v ] ls … n v ] sx¿n] n] Vg g;s] sf s'/ f g] kfnsf sf6'l{ gi6x¿n] d] 6fkmf] l/ s lx;fan] kl: s/ x s ] f 5g\ .Ú l / fhfn] j}z fv !! ut] ;Qf 5f8\g' !( lbg cufl8 g] kfn Dofu] lhgdf / s 6] cfsf/ df / fhb/ af/ agfOPsf] lyof] .

To;df c+s n] v/ ] sfpG6 8fpg ;'? ePsf] ;+s t] ul/ Psf] 5 . Tof] sf6'g{ k9] / … tn F fO{ 6'lF 8v] ndf l3;f{5f}Ú + eGg] kf7s kq;d] t cfPsf] lyof] . l lqz'nLdf a; b'36{ gf a9\g yfn]k l5 To;sf] Jo+Uo ub} {d} n ] Pp6f sf6'g{ agfP . To;df a; r9\g' cl3 kf}8 L v] Ng l;s] / a; r9\g' kg] { agfOPsf] lyof] . a;df n] lvPsf] lyof]– : ju{åf/ L oftfoft . csf] {lbg : ju{åf/ L gfpFsf] oftfoft ;ldltaf6 … Ifdf dfUg';Ú\ eg] / kq} cfof] . l / l] 8of] n ] lbPsf] t/ sf/ L ahf/ sf] efpnfO{ Jo+Uo u/ / ] $ j6f dfq} gDa/ / fv] / u[x dGqfnosf] ;Dks{ gDa/ eg] / n] v s ] f] lyPF . dfG5] x¿ cufl8sf] gDa/ cfkm} + yk] / kmf] g ubf{ / x 5 ] g\ . To;/ L kmf] g ubf{ afn'jf6f/ sf ;a{;fwf/ 0fsf] 3/ df k'Ubf] / x 5 ] . o;/ L kmf] g cfpFbf pgL x} / fg eP/ b'v ; ] f] kf] v ] . To;} n ] … cfh slt sn cfof] Ú eg] / x/ s ] ;fFem Ps xKtf;Dd kmf] g u/ /] d} n] pgL;Fu dfkmL dfu] +.

67

k': ts

:jfdL cfgGb c¿0fsf

lk|o % k': ts ;f

w';Gtx¿sf] zx/ hgsk'/ df hGd] sf : jfdL cfgGb c?0fsf] l;+uf] hLjg cfWoflTds hfu/ 0fdf ;dlk{t 5 . cf] zf] tkf] jg g] kfnsf k|dv ' / x s ] f oL cfWoflTds lrGts ;+;f/ e/ cf] zf] bz{gsf] k|rf/ df h'6 s ] f 5g\ . pgL bfz{lgs cf] zf] af6 ;g\ !($& df lblIft ePsf lyP . cfWoflTds k': ts n] vg Pj+ cWoogdf xf] ldPsf 5g\ pgL . a'‰g' kg]{ ;To s] xf] eg] wfld{s sd{sf08 cWofTd xf] Og, cWofTd t cGt/ sf] lj1fg xf] h;n] dgnfO{ cfglGbt t'NofpF5 . cfhsf] o'udf lj1fg / k|ljlwn] hLjgnfO{ ;lhnf] agfOlbPsf] 5 t/ o;n] w] / } lsl;dsf ;d: of klg NofPsf] 5 . dfG5] df lbglbg} dfgl;s ;d: of a9\b 5 } . cWofTdsf] af6f] af6} dfgl;s ;d: ofsf] cr's pkrf/ x'G5 . To;} n ] pgL ljZje/ Wofg / cWofTd hfu/ 0f cleofg rnfpFb } cfPsf 5g\ .

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h;n] hLjgsf] ;To k|fKt u/]sf] 5}g p;n] hlt pkb]z lbP klg Tof] g'g lagfsf] t/sf/L h:t} vNnf] x'G5 . …cvaf/ t lgoldt k9\g} k¥of]Ú, :JffdL eG5g\, …To;afx]s OGnfO6]8 ePsf dfG5] n] n]vs ] f k':ts dfq} k9\5' . cfkm}+ a]xf];Ldf ePsfx?n] n]vs ] f] k':ts t s] k9\g' ÛÚ

g] kfnsf] ;Gbe{df s'/ f ug] { xf] eg] , cfWoflTds ko{6gaf6} xfd|f] b] zsf] sfofsNk x'g ] b] v s ] f 5g\ pgn] . xfd|f ] b] zdf lxGb' / af} 4 wd{;uF hf]l 8Psf w] / } kljq e"ld 5g\, ltgsf] / fd|f; ] uF dfs]l {6ª ug{ ;s] nfvf} +ko{6s leq\ofpg ;lsG5 . a'4k|lt ;+;f/ e/ sf dfG5] sf] 7"nf] ;Ddfg 5 . … xfdLn] n'lDagLsf] dfq / fd|f; ] uF dfs]l {6ª ug{ ;s] jflif{s %) nfv eGbf a9L ko{6s leq\ofpg ;lsG5Ú , : jfdL c¿0f eG5g\, … ko{6g k"jf{wf/ ljsf; / dfs] l{ 6ªdf ;/ sf/ nfUg' k5{ .Ú n'lDagL, kz'kltgfy, d'lQmgfy, hgsk'/ , / f/ f, vKt8 dfq} xf] Og l;+u } g] kfn cWofTd e"ld xf] . … k/' f g] kfn hxfF hfFbf klg dnfO{ cf>d h: tf] nfU5 . To;} n ] xfd|f d] f cfWoflTds ko{6gsf] ;+efjgf 7"nf] 5Ú , : jfdL eG5g\, … cd] l/ sfdf Go" h;L{nfO{ … uf8]g { : 6 6] Ú elgG5 . d eG5' g] kfn g} uf8]g { sG6«L xf] . To;} n ] ;a} lt/ k'Ug ;8s / xjfO{

sg] lS6le6L x'g' k5{ .Ú g] kfn cfWoflTds au}r + f xf] . ;+;f/ df dfgl;s / f u] L a9L/ x s ] f 5g\ . of] u, Wofg, dfOG8km'ng]; sf] dfu a9\bf] 5 . ltgnfO{ g]k fn tfGg] of] hgf ;/ sf/ n ] agfpg' kg] {pgsf] ;'emfa 5 . jif{sf ^ dlxgf ljb] z / ^ dlxgf : jb] zdf x'G5g\ : jfdL . ljb] z hfFbf pgn] : jb] zaf6 n} hfg] v'/ fs lstfa x'G5 . ptfaf6 g]k fn cfpFbf klg z'6s] ;e/ L lstfa} NofpF5g\ . ljBfno hLjgb] lv g} pgL n] vk9df ?lr / fVy] . ljBfnosf] r'gfaaf6 nfOa] l/ og ag] kl5 lk|lG;kn;Fu cg'/ f w] u/ /] k': tsfnod} vf6 / fv] / lwt gd¿Gh] n k': ts k9] sf] 36gf ;'gfpF5g\ pgL . ltgtfs} pgn] cfWoflTds bfz{lgsx¿sf k': ts k9\g EofPsf / x5 ] g\ . cWoog / lrGtgn] g} dfG5]n fO{ 1fgL agfpF5 . pgL lbgdf ^ 3G6f hlt k': ts k9\5g\ . ;'Tg] a n ] f / laxfg} klg k9\5g\ . Toltdfq xf] / , afy?ddf ;d] t k9\5g\ . PSn} x'gl ] jlQs} k9\5g\ . df}s f ldNof] ls kl9xfN5g\ . a|s ] kmf: 6 kl5 k': ts k9\5g\ . nGr kl5 klqsf . / ftLsf] vfgfkl5 klg k': ts k9\5g\ . … ;fFRr} eGg] xf] eg] d] / L cwf{lugL eGg' g} k': ts xf] Ú , pgL eG5g\, … d /] f u'¿ cf] zf] , / d0f dxzL{ cflbsf k': ts bf] xf] ¥ofO{ t] x ¥] ofO{ k9\5 ' .Ú klxnfklxnf pgL ;a} vfn] k': ts k9\y ,] pkGof; k9\y ] . cr] n af} l4s k': ts dfq} k9\5g\ . pgsf] / f h ] fOdf hLjgnfO{ k| l] / t ug] { vfnsf k': ts dfq} k5{g \ .

xf] . pgsf k':t s g] kfnL, c+u h ]| L / lxGbL efiffdf k|sflzt 5g\ . pgn] xhf/ f +} k': ts kl9;s] sf 5g\ . tL dWo] pgsf] hLjgdf w] / } k|efj kf/ s ] f % k': tssf] rrf{ pgs} zAbdf ul/ Psf] 5 . b cf6{ ckm OGnfO6d] G6 eujfg cf] zf] sf bz xhf/ / s ] 8]8 { k|jrg ;'g /] lgsflnPsf] lstfa xf] –… cf6{ ckm OGnfO6d] G6Ú . b'waf6 gf} gL lgsfn] h: t } dy] / lgsfn] sf xf} + . cf] zf] sf & ;o k': tsaf6 5fF6 /] k|sfzg ul/ Psf] dxTjk"0f{ k':t s xf] h'g ;Daf] lwsf] lj1fg xf], lgjf{0fsf] lj1fg xf] . o;n] cfWoflTds dgx¿nfO{ em'dfOlbG5 . o;sf] k|sfzg cf/ De b'O{ jif{ cl3 cf] zf] tkf] jgaf6 ul/ Psf] lyof] . Ps lbg ;+;f/ n ] of] k': tssf] dxTj a'‰g] 5 . ldli6«h ckm d] l86] zg cfzf] tkf] jgs} k|sfzg xf] … ldli6«h ckm d] l86] zgÚ . & jif{ e} ;Sof] o;sf] k|sfzg ePsf] . ;Dkfbgqmddf d} n ] o;nfO{ clncln x] / s ] f] lyPF, / fd|f ; ] uF k9] sf] lyOg . o;kfnL cd] l/ sf ofqfdf Kn] gdf o;nfO{ km] / L k9], + Psbd} 1fgaw{s nfUof] . o;df Wofgsf / x: ox¿sf] rrf{ ul/ Psf] 5 . of] d] / f ] hLjgsf] Psbd} dxTjk"0f{ k': ts xf] . c6f] afof] uf| kmL ckm c of] uL ;+;f/ df afOan kl5 ;a}e Gbf a9L k|sfzg ePsf] k': ts xf] – c6f] afof] uf| kmL ckm of] uL . k/ dx+ z of] ufgGbhLsf] o; k': tsn] dnfO{ sn] h nfOkmd} lss lbPsf] lyof] . / x: ojfblt/ 8f] ¥ofpF5 o;n] . w] / } efiffdf o;sf] k|sfzg ul/ Psf] 5 . g] kfnL efiffdf klg cg'jfb ePsf] 5 . Pp6} lstfaaf6 klg cleofg rNg ;S5 eGg] pbfx/ 0f xf] of] . o;s} andf ;+;f/ df lqmof of] u cleofg rn] sf] 5 . of] k':t sn] u'¿sf] df hfg' k5{, u'¿nfO{ lrGg' k5{ . u'¿n] z/ L/ 5f8] klg lzionfO{ 5f] 8b\ g} , lzion] hlxn] rfx] klg u'¿;Fu ;Dks{ ug{;S5 eGg] ljZjf; lbnfpF5 . lknlu|D; ckm b : 6f;{ lblnk s'df/ / f o] / OlGb/ fb] jLn] n] v s ] f] k': ts … lknlu|D; ckm lb : 6f;{Ú pkof] uL k': ts xf] . OlGb/ fb] jL c/ ljGbsL lzio x'g \ . ef/ tsf] k'g ] cf>ddf l;ldt of] k': tssf] ljZjJoflks/ 0f u/ fpg xfdLn] d2t u/ s ] f xf} + . cfh cd] l/ sf / ¿;df ;d] t of] nf] slk|o e} ;s] sf] 5 .

OlGb/ fb] jL / x: odlo kfq x'g \ . % xhf/ jif{ cl3 eujfg s[i0fsL k| l] dsf lyOg\ dL/ f . ltg} dL/ f;Fu OlGb/ fb] jLsf] lbgx'F s'/ fsfgL x'GYof] . slxn]s flxF t s[i0fsf] bz{g klg ug'{ x'GYof] . ToxL s'/f of] k': tsdf pNn] v 5 . o; k':t sn] eG5–u'¿ slxNo} klg x/ fpFb g} g\ . d} n ] of] k': tssf] laifodf n] v s ] f] / af] n s ] f] 5' . w] / n } fO{ pkxf/ afF8s ] f] 5' . dfG5]x ¿nfO{ k9\g l;kmfl/ ; u/ s ] f] 5' .

… cvaf/ t lgoldt k9\g } k5{Ú , pgL eG5g\, … To;afx]s OGnfO6] 8 ePsf dfG5] sf k': ts dfq} k9\5 ' . cfkm} + a] xf] ;Ldf ePsfx¿n] n] v s ] f] k': ts t s] k9\g ' ÛÚ 1fg k|fKt gu/ s ] fx¿n] n] v s ] f k': tsdf af} l4s ljnf; dfq} x'G5 . h;n] ;To k|fKt u/ s ] f] 5} g p;n] hlt pkb] z lbP klg Tof] g'g lagfsf] t/ sf/ L h: t } clngf] nfU5 pgnfO{ . : jfdL cfgGb c¿0f cfkm}d +f / fd|f n] vs x'g \ . a/ f a] / klqsfdf n] vx¿ n] V5g\ . lstfj klg n] V5g\ . pgsf] n] vgsf] ljifo cWofTd}

n+u lknlu|d h ] lzjk'/L afaf d]/ f u'¿ x'gx' G' 5 . hLjgdf pxfFn ] s'g } k': ts n] Vg' ePsf] 5} g . pxfF;uF s'/ fsfgL u/ /] hf] g a] g 6] n] n] v s ] f] … nu+ lknlu|d ]hÚ k': ts lzjk'/ L afafs] hLjg bz{g xf] . of] k': ts w] / } efiffdf k|sfzg ePsf] 5 . xfd|f ] cf] zf] tkf] jgn] klg k|sfzg u/ s ] f] 5 . ;do nfUnf, dnfO{ ljZjf; 5 Ps lbg jN8{ Snfl;s ;flxTodf o;sf] u0fgf x'g5 ] .

69

OGb|]0fL

%

s'/f lglstf r08s ld; g]kfn @)!^ k': ts M

d Psbd} w] / } k9\g ] k9Gt] dfG5] xf] Og t/ d} n ] k9] sf dWo] / f x] 08f a|fogsf] … lb l;qm] 6Ú k': tsaf6 Psbd} k|efljt ePsL 5' . of] k': tsn] lg/ fzfaf6 p7] / hLjg / ;+;f/ nfO{ x] g{ ;sf/ fTds b[li6 lbG5 . olta] nf d lnln ] L 5', k9\g l;+xsf] … xfp 6' lj c afp;] Ú kl9/ x s dhf cfO/ x s ] f] 5 .

e|d0f M

ld; jN8{df efu lng] qmddf ljleGg b] zsf k|lt: kwL{x¿;Fu cGt/ lqmof ePkl5 d 3'dlkm/ df pT;fxL ePsf] 5' . x/ s ] k|lt: kwL{ cf– cfkm\g } df} lns k|: tl' t;lxt pkl:yt ePsf lyP, To;n] nf] Eofof] . clxn] sf nflu d cfkm\g } b] z g] kfn PS;Knf]/ ug{ rfxG5' .

vfgf M

zfsfxf/ L 5', vfgfsf] ;jfndf d r'hL 5' . To;}n ] / i] 6'/F f hfFbf ;fyL kfpg ;lhnf] x'bF g} . ;fdfGotofM / i] 6'/F fdf d] / f c8{/ x'G5 gfg / bfn dvgL .

klx/ g M

d km]z g] jn 5', 6«0] 8L x'g dg k/ fpF5 ' . df}; d / sfo{qmd clg e] Go' cg';f/ d] / f ] klx/ g x'G5 . s'g } lbg dnfO{ ;fdfGo klx/ gdf e]6 g\ ;Sg' x'G5 eg] s'gl } bg cfw'lgs kl/ xgdf . ;do cg';f/ d km] zg u5' { .

l;g] df M

rnlrq x]g { dnfO{ dg k5{ . d} n ] w] / } rnlrq bf] xf] ¥ofP/ klg x] / s ] L 5' . oxL rnlrq ;a} eGbf / fd|f ] eGg ;lSbg . x/ / lkmNd dnfO{ dg k5{ . …/f] d–sf]dÚ z} nLsf lkmNd dnfO{ dg k5{ .

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Simara to Kathmandu | Janak Rawal

71

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