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February 2014 | № 02 (125) Do not miss:
February 14 – Saint Valentine’s Day February 15 — Candlemas, the Meeting of the Lord February 24 — Maslianytsia festival (beginning of the Maslianytsia (Butter) week – a pre-Lent week in the Eastern Orthodox Church)
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korchma@tarasbulba.ru Project manager – Yuri Beloyvan ruk_proekta@tarasbulba.ru
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Ruslana Pysanka: “Sushi makes you crave borsch…”
Salita: Immigrant life is hard…
The Hellenic Country: Athens, cake of Santorini, Minoan-Hutsulian culture…
Artistic Experiment: Ukrainian Artist Painted 300 Images of Cossack Mamay
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2 | guest
The Korchma Taras Bulba restaurant chain offers not only exquisite and delicious food, but also authentic design and décor comparable to that of a Ukrainian museum of antiquities. No wonder that our restaurants are often used as film sets. In our restaurant in New York City, the TV channel RTVI is currently filming The Compass of a Gourmet, in our Kyiv restaurant, members of the popular Telsa Boy band organized a feast that made its way into their music video, and in Moscow, our restaurant has become a set of the At Dinner TV show. One of its guests was a popular TV anchor, actress, and sex symbol of Russia and Ukraine, Ruslana Pysanka. She is known not only as a gourmet and a good cook, but also as the author of the book Culinary Temptations from Kyivan Rus. The Bulba NEWS just couldn’t miss the opportunity to talk with her.
Ruslana Pysanka: “Sushi makes you crave borsch…”
– Ruslana, you are starring in films and TV programs, writing books, traveling, and now you are taking part in the At Dinner show… How do you find time for all this, and how do you find the energy? Where does it come from? – I have neither time nor energy. Sometimes I wonder how I manage all this. I’m joking. I’m happy that I’m needed. Men would understand me (she laughs). An artist is like a man – he gets up and goes. If people are waiting for me, I go. It could be two flights per day, and I could be at the other end of the world. Nevertheless, I would go and if required, I am happy to serve people… – Recently you presented your culinary book. This topic seems to be especially dear to you. What food do you like and what comprises the daily diet of Ruslana Pysanka? – I’ve written a book about Ukrainian cuisine, and, to say the truth, I have tried it all. There are a lot of recipes, Ukrainian cuisine makes up the core menu at your restaurants, but nevertheless every housewife introduces her own nuances and findings to the recipes. That’s why I like to eat what I prepare by myself, because I know for sure what I put in it. If I make borsch, the
vegetables should be crispy, not overdone, and there should be lots of grease… As a result, you enjoy food and benefit from it. In a word, I like Ukrainian cuisine. In my book I wrote, “Sushi just makes you crave borsch…” Russians and Ukrainians can’t satisfy their appetites with sushi. We aren’t used to it. If a man is offered borsch prepared by me and sushi, he definitely would choose the first. And if it comes with lard, garlic, pepper, pickled cucumbers on a sandwich, and thirty drops of a strong tasty drink, then a man would certainly choose this. And I choose this too. – But dieticians say that the Ukrainian cuisine is very heavy… – The Ukrainian cuisine is considered very heavy, but I try to adjust it to all my needs. I like borsch, lard, and varenyky. It’s important to know your limit, because if you eat too many varenyky, it will definitely make you feel bad. But you also can get protein poisoning from eating too many lobsters. So it depends. Be careful not to overeat. If you eat an entire Kyiv cake, you will be immediately hospitalized with pancreatic failure. I think that the Ukrainian cuisine is healthy, because we eat products grown here, in
Ukraine. In my book, only lemon is an oversea product… – You were once on a strict diet and succeeded to lose weight. What would you recommend to those women who want to keep fit, but aren’t ready to limit themselves in food? – I think that if you want to keep fit without limiting yourself in food, you should start exercising. I understood that exercising helps you burn all the fatty borsches, porridges, meat dishes, and so on. When you exercise, you can allow yourself to eat any food! – Do you exercise? – I do, from time to time. The swimming pool is the best place for getting rid of extra fat. Diving is the best massage… The most important is that it’s not expensive. The only thing is that after the pool you feel very hungry. That’s why you should take along some fruit to satisfy your craving. – As far as we know, you spend most of your time in Moscow now. Did you manage to adjust to the megalopolis, did you find friends from the large Ukrainian diaspora here?
guest | 3
– Yes, I have a lot of friends here. Mainly they are Muscovites, although Ukrainians by origin. I don’t socialize only with the diaspora. My friends need to be good people: this is my main principle of communication. Living in a megalopolis takes so much energy, that’s why I try to spend more time in Kyiv. It’s also very tiring with all the traffic jams, bustle, fuss, and stress; therefore, I moved to the country (she laughs). There, among birches and flowers, I enjoy myself. – What are the main projects you are engaged in? – I will soon start the filming of a series. God willing, everything will be fine, but there is many
a slip between the cup and the lip. The Ukrainian Vyshka has just finished, where I took 5th place out of 16 contenders. I think this is a good result. Now my husband and I plan to dance as a couple in another TV project. We are having as much fun as we can (she laughs). – You appeared in quite a few films before. Do you get any offers from producers now? – There are always some offers, but I’m not always interested in them. In this respect I’m very choosy. If I don’t like something, or I don’t understand it, or I don’t see myself somewhere, I just refuse. It could be for a film by the best director in the world, but I choose to listen to my
soul. I do as I feel. And then I have no pangs of conscience. – What is your favorite hobby? Once in an interview you said that you liked powerful and beautiful cars. What car do you drive now? – I have one good car. It’s an Acura jeep. – Once you were named the Ukrainian sex symbol, weren’t you? – I keep the title even today. It’s for life and it’s necessary to live up to it. No one surpassed me yet (she laughs). Text: Stepan Hrytsiuk
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4 | interview
The life of Dmitriy Salita from New York hasn’t been easy. But neither the difficult childhood nor the life hardships of the poor immigrant broke his spirit. Now Salita is a successful boxer and a promising promoter. Looks like another “American Dream” came true. Dmitriy was born in 1982 in Odesa. When he was nine, he moved to the United States. The main reason behind his moving to America was the discrimination of Jews. His brother Michael, nine years older than Dmitriy, was often insulted and thus had to fight. Immigration to the USA was another trying time for Dmitriy Salita. In 1999, came another blow – his mother died of cancer. His daily life was a real test on his strength of character. Dima went to school in the same clothes he wore in Odesa. Because of this and also because of his poor English, his classmates mocked him ruthlessly. This made Salita learn to defend himself. First, he signed up for karate classes, and then his brother brought him to a boxing club. It was just the beginning. Dima was regularly summoned to the principal’s office. Several times he was expelled from school, but that didn’t dent his selfesteem. So he began to fight back the bullies at school. In boxing, things went very well for Dmitriy Salita. A native of Ukraine is the winner of the prestigious Golden Gloves tournament, an American equivalent of the Olympic Games. Dmitriy Salita revealed the secrets of his success for the readers of Bulba News.
Salita: My success formula
is faith in God plus hard work – Dmitriy, have you been to Odesa after moving to America? – I was invited to Kyiv, Odesa, and Dnipropetrovsk several times. But because of my hectic life I couldn’t make time for this. Hopefully, soon I’ll go to Ukraine on business. – What do you mean? – I plan to do a boxing show in Ukraine, probably in my hometown Odesa. I had preliminary talks with some influential people. Talented Ukrainian and American boxers will take part in this show. American television is interested in this idea. Ukraine has great boxers and passionate fans. – Your childhood in Odesa wasn’t easy, was it? – Are you asking about the anti-Semitism? Yes, it’s true. At that time no one in Odesa openly declared their faith. I’d never seen a man wearing a kippah (a religious Jewish headwear, a yarmulke). I didn’t even know what it is. Anti-Semitism in Odesa is a life fact. Now everything has changed. There is a huge Jewish community with its synagogues and schools in Ukraine. Fortunately, the government of Ukraine recognizes all religions. The town of Uman is located in Ukraine – it’s a place of pilgrimage for many Hasidic Jews from around the world. – How did America welcome you? – Immigrant life is a hard, immigrants everywhere face difficulties. It was harder for my parents to live in immigration, than it was for me. I was able to grasp the new culture and learn the language faster that they were. When I started going to school, I had the clothes I wore in Ukraine. Because of this, and also because of my poor English, I was often mocked. I had to learn to defend myself. Because of the difficult life I had as an immigrant, I started training in boxing. I began boxing at the age of 13 in the local boxing club Starret City, which was led by Jimmy O’Pharrow. The coach, an old man, treated me very well, as if I were his son. Jimmy is no longer with us, but for me he will always be
Did you know…?
Swallows Nests Soup is very popular in China. It’s called so not by chance: it is prepared from real swifts’ nests. Some of them build their white nests almost entirely of pure saliva. Their price reaches $2,300 per kilogram.
The most expensive cocktail in the world is the Martini on the Rock. It is served in the bar of the Algonquin Hotel in New York. It is made of vermouth, vodka, olives, and a “small rock.” After drinking this cocktail, on the bottom of the glass, the clients find a diamond made in the jeweler’s workshop of the hotel. The price of this drink ranges from $10 thousand to $1 million depending on the size of the diamond.
interview | 5
a saint. I grew up among many different people. Thanks to boxing, I achieved a lot in my life. – You spent your childhood in Odesa, but grew up in America. What is your identity now: Ukrainian or American? – Most part of my adult life I spent in America, but I closely communicate with the US Russian-speaking community. – What do you do in your free time? – I watch boxing on TV (he laughs). Seriously, I like going out with my friends, going to the movies. – When was the last time you applied your boxing skills outside the ring? – The last time I was involved in a street fight was when I was 9. I don’t like street conflicts. I think it’s indecent. I try to avoid places where it can happen. When I feel that I am losing control over a situation and a fight is about to break out, I give a warning and then call the police. – Does your worldview influence your occupation? – I’m the first Jewish boxer who refuses to fight on Saturdays. In 2000, when I was 18, I was competing in the US Championship. Everything was fine; I won the semi-final and entered the final scheduled for Saturday. My rabbi said I shouldn’t fight on the Sabbath. I didn’t know what to do. But a journalist interviewing me helped me. He talked with the commission. My fight was postponed and I won! By the way, it’s much more difficult not to fight on Saturday at the beginning of a career. If you are a more experienced boxer, almost all main fights are held after the Sabbath. (Dmitriy Salita following the Torah and the commandments doesn’t enter the ring on Saturday and holidays. When he participates in competitions that are held Saturday evenings, he arrives at the hotel with his rabbi before Saturday, where they take every measure not to break the rules of Sabbath by accidentally switching an electrical device, opening a door lock, or talking on the phone, for example, – Auth.) – You’ve contributed to the moving of Yevgeniy Khitrov to America and the start of his career as a professional boxer there (Yevgeniy Khitrov is the amateur boxing world champion, born in Kryvyi Rih. Incidentally, before his debut in the professional matches, Yevgeniy met with his fans and American journalists in the New York Korchma Taras Bulba restaurant, - Auth.) What do you think about the potential of the young boxer?
Saffron is the most expensive spice in the world. Its cost hasn’t decreased since the Middle Ages, when one pound of it could be exchanged for an Arabian stallion. Although today saffron has lost its former value, it is equal in value to gold as only 300 tons of saffron is produced every year in the world.
– Yevgeniy is ready to fight with high-level boxers. Khitrov has good experience in competitive matches and wins on the highest level in amateur boxing. His skills are better than the skills of most boxers in his weight category. Yevgeniy is a future professional boxing world champion. – To become a star in the USA, you need to please the local audience. Do Americans like the boxing style of Khitrov? – Sure! Yevgeniy has a very good style for professional boxing. He is aggressive and often ends his fights with a knockout. This is what fans and television like. He should receive the right and rational education and learn the subtleties of professional boxing. I don’t think that it would take lots of time. He just needs some experience. Skills he already has. If everything is fine, he will be able to fight for the title of world champion in approximately two years. If he reaches his potential, he will be a great star.
time Olympic champion is a top class performer. Lomachenko proved this in the ring. His technique and psychological training are on the level of the greatest boxers in the world. The Ukrainian boxing school proved that it’s one of the best schools. Lomachenko has potential to become a boxing legend. He needs two or three years to get used to the professional boxing style. After this, he will be ready to fight with any world champion. – My last question is personal. What helped you turn from a poor immigrant into a successful American citizen? – Everything that happened in my life is God’s blessing. My parents taught me to like work. I’m very persistent in achieving my goals. I think that my success formula is faith in God plus hard work.
– In your opinion, what are the main differences between the American and the European boxing schools? – European boxing is very technical. European boxers are often very well-trained technically. American boxing isn’t as technical; it’s more undirected. I wouldn’t say that this or that style is better. There are outstanding boxers in both schools. Now many boxers form the post-Soviet countries are successfully fighting in the professional boxing ring. – Last year one more Ukrainian boxer made his debut in America – Vasyl Lomachenko. Did you watch this match? – Of course I watched it. In America, there was a lot of interest in Lomachenko’s debut. A two-
The most expensive caviar in the world isn’t black caviar at all. It’s not even grey caviar. The most expensive caviar is Almas. It’s white caviar of the albino beluga sturgeon that is sometimes exported from Iran. One hundred grams of this caviar, which is always packaged in a can of pure gold, will cost a customer nearly $2,000.
Text: Oleh Nalyvaiko
6 | Travelling
My Greece vacation can be described by the phrase “A Big Fat Greek Adventure.” In the airport of Athens, I joined a small budget travel group from Kyiv. There were eight of us. A perfect company for a good time. If I were a man, I would call our group “Seven Girls and Me.” But the only man among us was Yuriy, the organizer of the trip and the head of the club. Yuriy and I have known each other for many years through our journalism. I have never met such a rolling stone like him before. He actively travels around the world and knows well how to plan trips in a proper way, how, without overpaying, to see interesting far-off cities and picturesque landmarks or to relax at the seaside. Vacation packages to all these places are sold by travel agencies for exorbitant prices. That’s why I embarked on “A Big Fat Greek Adventure” organized by Yuriy.
The Emotional Hellas: Athens, the Cake of Santorini, the Minoan-Hutsulian Culture… Athens Impressions “I keep getting this feeling… that I am not in Europe, but… in one of the Third World countries. On the other hand, you can also see something like this in the Italian Calabria…” This was my loud complaint about the dirty uptown of the capital of Hellas. Our hotel was located in a neighborhood whose streets were overflowing with trash. On one of the side streets leading to a metro station a homeless family set up their residence. There was a woman’s mirror lying next to children’s shoes. But I was in the minority – only one woman from Kyiv shared my opinion. The others were glad that in this September time they changed the rainy and cold Ukrainian capital for the hot Greece, and were excited about everything they saw. And we saw quite a bit, traveled a lot and very fast, but my initial impression was overshadowed by the magnificent ruins of the Acropolis of Athens situated on the Acropolis hill. On and on we went. I won’t be describing the Greek ancient ruins with the remains of its Temples, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Theatre of Dionysus and other sights, because everyone can visit these tourist sites. During our Saturday visit to the Acropolis, we met crowds of Russian, German, Italian, English, American, and Chinese tourists. We lost three people for a while when we were admiring the
surrounding ruins and the panorama of modern Greece from the hilltop. That was in the Acropolis where we first met very peaceful stray Greek cats.
Seaward ho! A seven-hour voyage on a cruise shook my feelings. I was sitting in a chair with a book on my lap and my legs up on a deck handrail, periodically looking at water’s surface around the ferry. People were busy with different things: eating, drinking, sleeping, walking around. Several fellow travelers of mine sipped cognac at a table. Perfect calmness. Our company formed groups of three people to be led by Yuriy and went for a walk on the five-storey liner with pubs, restaurants, stores, TVs. We sat down at two joined tables on the upper deck of the ship. On one of the lower open decks a young woman lounged wrapped in a sleeping bag protecting her from a piercing sea wind. Young people and passengers under 50 preferred open-air liner places. Elder people chose to admire the sea views from behind the windows. We took a wrong staircase and found ourselves in closed premises for VIP passengers. The liner personnel immediately showed us out in the opposite direction. On our tour of the ship we stopped on the deck of the second floor where the wind ran the show, fluttering our clothes and hair. I was overwhelmed with the unknown pleasant feelings of unity with the ocean space. And I tried to keep my mind off passing thoughts about the Titanic or the passengers who ended up in the depths of the sea from the novel “Ocean Sea” by the modern Italian writer Alessandro Baricco. The sea voyage from Athens to Santorini, carefully planned for several
months in advance, cost me and my fellow travelers only 37.5 euros. Donkeys and Quads Instead of Carts “Is the donkey a symbol of Oia?” I asked myself, being lost among many souvenirs decorated with Bible images of the animals seen in the island town. On one of the most expensive Greek islands of Santorini, in its capital Thira, we stayed in the hotel for 17 euros per person. Though Thira is the capital of the island, it doesn’t differ very much from Oia: the same miniature pastry-like creamy-white houses, and the same churches with blue domes. The only difference is that more tourists prefer Thira. On the very first evening we went to watch the sunset in Oia. Yura informed us that only in Oia the sun sinks below the horizon very impressively. In fact, to welcome this phenomenon hundreds of tourists from different corners of the world come over, settling themselves on the ground under the Greek flag. As soon as the sun begins its solemn procession into the depths of the Aegean Sea, champagne corks outshoot in the heights accompanied by loud applause. “Hmm ... I thought the donkey is a symbol of the entire island of Santorini,” I summarized when I saw sculptures of donkeys for the first time in Thira, and sedately marching animals with tourists seated on their backs. Poor donkeys patiently bear the fate of the so-called tour-buses going along the stone block track 300 m down to the sea, and climbing back. In the center of Thira Greeks ride tourists on quad bikes. The volcanic island of Santorini, one of the Cyclades group of fifty thousand islands, with all its half-wild beaches on the Akrotiri peninsula, with sand of black and red volcanic rocks color, and with a still active volcano in the middle of the Aegean Sea looks like a fabulous countryside. When you look from the height of island towns of Thira or Oia, you can see the stretching seascapes, overwhelmed with their unreality. The quiescence of the volcano is rather dubious. Last time it reminded about itself at the beginning of twentieth century. Its historic BC eruption buried the advanced Minoan civilization. A powerful striking force from the Aegean Sea to the Ionian and to Crete cut short the life of the Minoans. Crete is our next destination on the cruise.
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Minoans, ancestors of the Hutsuls? “Look, that’s a Hutsulian pattern!” I exclaimed when I saw the artifacts of the Minoan civilization in the Museum of Archeology in Heraklion city on the island of Crete. I knew long before that creative ideas and energies cross in outer space. But I never thought they did so in such a way: Minoan pottery was designed with the native and familiar patterns of Ukrainian highlanders. Any European queen would be jealous of the ancient women’s jewelry. “They were quite the inventors, those Minoans!” My roommate Iryna claimed delightfully behind my back. I turned around. Iryna stood next to a huge coffin with a special deepening for a head. With our newly acquired knowledge from the museum, we preceded by bus to the ruins of the most ancient European civilization – the Minoan Palace of Knossos – excavated in the early twentieth century. The unique frescoes on its walls were a testament to the culture of happy people: they are colorful and vital. The ancient cobbled road led to the Palace of Konossos. And I thought that the most ancient cobbled road was on Via Appia in Roma. The Minoans outdid modern civilization not only in that. The Palace of Knossos had perfect water supply and sewage systems and the oldest toilet in the world. Only a round hole remained from the ancient toilet bowl. The tourists vigorously took pictures of the throne of the wise and fair king Minos. The modern copy of this throne decorates the International Court in the Hague.
Leper Island We sunbathed on the beaches of Hersonises, Crete, where we lived in apartments, swam in the warm clear water of the Ionian Sea, and traveled a lot. September is a great time for a vacation – not so many beachgoers, but the Greek sun is still hot. A few days after visiting Heraklion with its ruins of the Minoan civilization, we went to Agios Nikolas by bus, and then to Mirabello Bay, on the island of Spinalonga, by boat. A small elongated island, it is all that remains of the city submerged after the earthquake. In the sixteenth century the Venetians erected a fortress on the island. A century later the Turks built a village next to the fortress. In the first half of the twentieth century, the island of Spinalonga became a shelter for deported lepers. Then we walked on the straight and winding paths of the island, climbed fortress walls, ate homemade lunches at the beach tables. Then we drank the aromatic Greek wine contemplating the open landscapes. We surely did enjoy our “Big Fat Greek Adventure”... Text and photos by Olesia Olendiy
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Note! We are now hiring to work in Korchma “Taras Bulba” restaurants in Kyiv and New York.
8 | culture
Artistic Experiment: Ukrainian Artist Painted 300 Images of Cossack Mamay He is always depicted with a moustache and a forelock, a pipe in his mouth, accompanied by a loyal friend – his horse. This is the image of a legendary historic character – Cossack Mamay – in the paintings of the Ukrainian artist Orest Skop. He has dedicated more than thirty years of his life to painting Cossack Mamay. He has accomplished quite a feat: he produced nearly three hundred Mamays! Mr Skop says that his strange passion has a unique explanation. When he learned about the murder of kobza players and lyrists by the Stalin regime in 1934, he promised to paint a different Mamay for every murdered soul. Now his paintings of the charismatic Cossack have spread all around the world. They are part of both museum and private collections. One of the Cossacks has even made its way to Hillary Clinton, a former US Secretary of State.
The Inception
Buddhism and the Origin of Mamay
In 1968, when I was at school, my classmate who sat next to me told me that there was a painting of Mamay in his house. In the background of the picture, girls were seeing off the Cossacks who were going on a march. When a museum worker came to their house, he said that it was a rarity and that it belonged in a museum. I never saw that painting, but I kept thinking about it; I saw it with my imagination in many variations… Time passed, and I was asked to paint Cossack Mamay as a birthday gift. I completed one painting, then some more… Later I read that in 1934, near Kharkiv, Communists shot three hundred blind kobza players. This is a true historical fact, since there are documents to prove it. So I set myself a task to create a series of paintings dedicated to the innocent executed people. Initially, I gave each of them a number, but once Cossacks asked me in my dream, “Why are you doing this? Free people don’t bear numbers…” Then I divided one painting into three hundred squares. Upon painting a new character, I would cover another square with paint.
Mamay looks so zen-like – his tranquility is reminiscent of Buddhism. If we say that we are an Indo-European nation, because of the Sanskrit and our ancient roots, then we may quite possibly have their genes. The tribes were on the move; somebody might have seen a drawing in India, then came here and created something similar. It could have been 500, 1,000, or even more years ago. Have a look, Cossack Mamay sits in the typical “Turkish” pose, his legs are crossed. There, you can find many instances of this. His clothes, though, might have been borrowed from the Cossack period. No wonder that Mamay was depicted in the same way at all times. We, for example, don’t wonder at the canonic icon of Our Lady, who usually embraces the little boy. I repeat: this was an amulet held in every house.
Cossack Mamay I close my eyes and I see Mamay. He comes to me by himself, that’s why all the images are different. You know, the Ukrainians didn’t create this character randomly; he has a protective function. When Cossacks went to war, and there were no men in the house, a painting of Mamay was hung on the wall… There were three patrons: Our Lady, Saint Nicholas, and Mamay. Now I’m holding a book in my hands. There, a researcher collected all the paintings of Mamay kept in Ukrainian museums. For sure, this is a phenomenon! It seems that they are like icons, on one hand, and like secular paintings, on the other. Indeed, it was a continuation of the icon-painting tradition, but with the additions of a bandura, a horse, a pipe, girls, a song… All these symbols added some magic.
Creative Energy and National Identity When I painted these works, it seemed as if were emitting some energy. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have been able to create so many Cossacks… I would have become bored or lazy, but nothing like that happened. I would enter into a special magic state and contemplate how I could create a painting for every lost soul. The main thing is that each painting should be unique. This is one point. But there is another one. We speak about globalization, art becomes the same everywhere, because two spots and a line are considered fashionable. This is already avant-garde. When the euro was introduced, national currencies disappeared… And this characterizes what is going on with modern art very well. The motif I’m working with is national. It’s important for me, because Ukraine has a rich mythology and legends that need to be promoted and popularized. There are a lot of things which, when you take them out of the chest, they would surprise the world. Even at the smallest gallery in the world there are French, German, Japanese, Oriental paintings, but there are no Ukrainian ones. So, we should
culture | 9
conquer the world with our distinctive art and ideology. I decided how, in my own way, I could popularize our national distinctive art and traditions of painting. I remind you that our pride, singer Ruslana, performed her Wild Dances to the tunes of the kolomyika (Ukrainian dance and song) and won the Eurovision Song Contest because she stood out among the others. There had been nothing like this in the contest before, that’s why she broke into it like a breeze of fresh air.
The Formation of Culture For me, portraying the Mamay character is the work of my life. I do my work, somebody else does theirs… And so, brick by brick, our culture is being built. I don’t support borrowings or some foreign tendencies. I support individuality. Borrowing foreign styles isn’t interesting at all. There is an
example of the artist Mykhaylo Boychuk who started a new artistic trend. He was shot because a new genre of the Ukrainian art emerged. This was an act of the totalitarian regime that in no way could let Ukraine stand out. Once, in Paris, artists saw the works of Boychuk and his followers, and so the Mexican revolutionary art appeared. When in the 1930s they came to the Soviet Union, their first question was, “Where is our master?” and they were told, “He has been shot.” Some people have called my art kitsch… It is for art critics to assess whether I did well or not. But I uncovered and developed this motif. I continue to paint, but how much more I will paint, I don’t know. I have been painting these Cossacks for 33 years. God only knows how many more I will be able to make. TEXT: Stepan Hrytsiuk PHOTO: Yuriy Helytovych
10 | Media About Us
A Day in SoHo, a Night in Ukraine
By JULIA MOSKIN
At Korchma Taras Bulba in SoHo, the first United States outpost of a chain of colorful Ukrainian restaurants, it’s not a question of whether to have a round of shots, only how many and in what flavors. (Cranberry, ginger, horseradish and lemon are the best. Bacon is the worst, by a wide margin.) These places are popular in Moscow, where most of them are, because they serve affordable, cozy, rustic meals in a dining scene that’s increasingly glossy, expensive and globalized. (It’s routine for two people to spend $600 on a mediocre French bistro dinner or a sushi omakase menu in that city.) Also, with Ukrainian dumplings, spicy vodka, black bread and house-made sausages, Korchma Taras Bulba “pushes all the right Slavic buttons,” said a Russian friend. But what if you don’t have Slavic buttons? It’s still fun, especially because the kitchen sends out good versions of traditional food alongside the shots and beers that keep arriving from the bar. (In many so-called Russian restaurants in New York, food and service are notably slapdash.) Think of it as a performance and a restaurant, a nostalgic pageant of a bucolic Ukraine, where peasants were happy and pigs were plentiful (and where the relationship between Moscow and Kiev was stable). A mild but pleasant sense of unreality sets in immediately upon arrival. A poster for the 1962 Hollywood movie “Taras Bulba” faces the entrance; the film was one of many about the Ukrainian folk hero invented by Nikolai Gogol in 1835. (But this is the only one with Tony Curtis and Yul Brynner.) At various times, Bulba has been depicted as fighting against Poland, the Russian czar, the Ottoman Empire and, more recently, Vladimir Putin. But there is no hint of strife in the korchma,
a word meaning “tavern” in Ukrainian. Farm implements hang from the ceiling; the friendly servers are in folkloric dress, including embroidered bodices, head wreaths and flowing knickers tucked into high boots; vintage Soviet-era agro-porn adorns the bathroom walls. (Think Bettie Page as a farm girl in flirtatious poses around the barnyard.) In American terms, the restaurant is the equivalent of a Cracker Barrel plopped down in Manhattan, with the servers wearing overalls and trucker caps and trying to act “country.” But the food is good enough to make the schtick palatable. Especially at this time of year, Korchma Taras Bulba’s savory vegetable soups, smoked fish and expertly made dumplings taste just right. The best way to attack the enormous menu is to start with a plate of salo, creamy salt-cured pork belly that is an iconic food of Ukraine. It is dusted with black pepper or paprika and arrayed with sour black bread, horseradish and mustard; it is also served with each shot, in thick slices wrapped around a tiny pickled cucumber. There is a halfhearted kale salad at the SoHo branch, but over all the menu here is the same as it is in Moscow. This is good and bad; on one hand, vegans and the gluten-phobic will not find much to eat; on the other, some old-school dishes that have fallen off American menus are enshrined here, like chicken Kiev and caviar with blini. A dish I’d go back for is holodets, shredded beef and pork encased in savory jellied consommé; you eat it in slices, with horseradish. Those dishes are good, but many main courses disappoint: Chewy beef stroganoff and bland chicken tabaka don’t represent the high points of Slavic cuisine. Those who love dairy can wallow in it here. A sharp “spring” salad of radishes and
cucumber is simply dressed with smetana, thick but light sour cream; dumplings large (pirogi) and small (vareniki) are stuffed with various cheese-vegetable combinations: caramelized onions, savory cabbage, earthy mushrooms. The most luscious dessert is the syrniki, lace-edged pancakes of sweet cottage cheese and raisins, fried crisp in butter. These double as brunch on Sunday, when the restaurant offers free cooking lessons for children. Yes, Korchma Taras Bulba is partly a kitschy Ukrainian theme park marketed to Russians, and now, to the world. But the restaurants’ colorful founder, Yuri Beloyvan, is indeed Ukrainian, and devotes part of his fortune to preserving Ukrainian language and culture. One pillar of that culture is a final slug of horilka (vodka) offered free, for the road. (An accompanying pickle is optional.) It sends you out with a warm sense of having been welcomed, fed and appreciated, even after the check is paid. And that, even more than a serenade with balalaika music at Sunday brunch, is a rare experience. Korchma Taras Bulba 357 West Broadway (Broome Street), SoHo; 212-510-7510, tarasbulba.us. RECOMMENDED Infused vodkas; salo (salt-cured pork belly); dumplings; holodets; sorrel soup; potato pancakes; pork chop; smetannik; syrniki; honey cake. PRICES $2 to $25. OPEN Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday until midnight. RESERVATIONS Accepted. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Accessible from the street; some corners will be tight in a wheelchair. Restrooms are spacious.
news from “Korchma”| 11
The Big Koliada in Korchma As no other nation, Ukrainians party during the celebration of the Christmas holidays. It was once again demonstrated by the Korchma Taras Bulba restaurant chain. This year a really big Christmas carol festival – Koliada – was organized there. Guests were entertained both by the vertep performed by Korchma’s staff and the Malanka that was brought to Moscow for this occasion by the Hutsuls from Western Ukraine. In one restaurant the Devil, the Angel, Herod, and other characters acted out skits on the Messiah’s nativity, in others folk artists staged a humoristic show where the main characters were the She-Goat, Basil, the Doctor, and good-for-nothing girl Malanka. The celebration lasted practically for a week. During this time performers visited all the restaurants of Korchma Taras Bulba. Of course, guests of the establishments join the carolers. Then, the shchedrivky (Ukrainian carols) were heard even in the streets, and the very performance lasted late into the night. The flavored moonshine vodka – samohon – that was specially made in Korchma for the New Year celebration fueled the carolers. According to Ukrainian tradition, all the guests were treated to a shot of it. The festival was celebrated in the Kyiv restaurant in a grandiose way. There, carolers acted out skits twice and gathered the greatest number of people. The winners of the show “Battle of the Choruses,” Lviv performers led by the singer Ruslana, visited the last performance in Korchma. Amazed, they also joined the Malanka play. Together with the folk theater they sang carols and danced in a ring, entertained guests and participated in the scenario staging of the fest. The party was wild. The Korchma clients were fascinated by the guests. People sang along with them, danced in a ring, filmed and took pictures with young rising stars on their phones. They couldn’t believe that the best chorus of the country came to wish them Merry Christmas!
Pastries and Hot Tea as an Element of Reconciliation
The winter has turned out to be a vibrant and controversial period for Ukraine. Suddenly, thousands of concerned spectators burst onto the stage of the political theater. As usual, Kyiv’s Maidan became the epicenter of all events. The capital came alive with numerous slogans and velvet revolutionary attributes. The main square of the country and its adjacent streets filled with the inspired activists. Korchma Taras Bulba, situated near the center of events, couldn’t but immerse into the wave of the nationwide cultural and political demonstration. Our restaurant appeared to be a very convenient
mobilization station for journalists, who kept up a running commentary, using our free Wi-Fi and enjoying the restaurant’s dishes. We did everything to create the most comfortable atmosphere for the media representatives so that they could freely report on the current events. In the evenings the restaurant’s workers went to Khreshchatyk St. to offer people free tea and hot pastries. By the way, the color of the flags and party affiliation were not taken into consideration. No matter who it was – a politician or an average citizen, a journalist or a policeman, an opponent of the Euromaidan or its staunch supporter – it was important for us to create an atmosphere where people could feel that they are taken care of, that they could warm up during that cold period and not feel themselves abandoned. In this chaotic and controversial world, the most important thing is to remain a human, and being a human means to sympathize and be warmhearted. Be warmhearted! Korchma Taras Bulba Lyudmyla Yusypyuk
www.tarasbulba.ru
ruk_proekta@tarasbulba.ru
composition
mineralization 1-2 g/l chemical composition of water Sodium+potassium (Na+ K+) Chlorides (Cl) Sulphates Hydrogen carbonates Calcium Magnesium
mg/l 4.5 3.5 4.6 95 77.2 20.67
12 | cookery
February 2 Groundhog Day
February 5
International Scouts’ Day
February 8
Day of Russian Science
Eat Salo and Stay Healthy!
14
february
Saint Valentine’s Day
February 9
Aeroflot Day International Dentist Day
February 10
Diplomatic Worker’s Day in Russia A. S. Pushkin Remembrance Day
February 13 World Radio Day
February 14
Saint Valentine’s Day Programmer’s Day
February 15
Candlemas, the Meeting of the Lord
February 18
Interesting facts about salo:
February 23
- Energy value of salo makes up 770 kcal per 100 g, that is equal to a kilogram of boiled potato or more than a half kilogram of chicken meat. - Italy is considered to be the birthplace of salo. It was the place where three thousand years ago there was started an idea to use pork fat as a cheap caloric food for slaves working at quarries. - In the years of the Second World War, Soviet soldiers suffering from food shortage and means of its storage survived on alcohol, hard bread and salo. - Sledge runners were lubricated with salo. It was also used for lubricating a ship’s bottom before launching it on water. For example, the frigate ‘Saint Nicholas’ used 130 pounds of the liquefied fat.
Day of Transport Police of the Russian Federation Defender of the Fatherland Day
February 24
Maslianytsia festival (beginning of the Maslianytsia (Butter) week – a pre-Lent week in the Eastern Orthodox Church)
February 28
Day of the Patrol and Point Duty Service Workers of Ukraine
cookery | 13
Salo (pork lard) is perhaps on top of the list of the national Ukrainian cuisine. Its popularity was always so great that it became one of the components of the Ukrainian culture. This is the product Ukrainians are associated with in the world. A lot of Ukrainian songs and anecdotes featuring salo add folk peculiarity to its theme. However, it should be noted that it became the Ukrainian pride because of its taste and healthy properties.
GOST 2903-78 Condensed milk
lard with garlic 100 g – 190 RUR
Salo is famous for its healing properties. This fact is proven by a number of scientific studies. Thus, salo is rich in vitamin F that anchors vessels. It contains polyunsaturated arachidonic acid which doesn”t occur in vegetable oils, however is necessary for heart muscle strengthening and improvement of brain activity. Immune reactions of the body also depend on arachidonic acid. Salo can prevent cancer and eliminate toxins from the body. The Ukrainian national product is rich in vitamins A, E, D, carotene and selenium microelement. And in winter our body especially needs these vitamins. The best time to eat salo is morning, because besides vitamins it will give you a huge energy boost. Salo stimulates a discharge of bilis accumulated over the night in the body and facilitates its clearance. The irony is that salo normalizes the level of cholesterol, is well digested and doesn”t affect liver. A small piece of salo before a meal covers the walls of a stomach with a thin film of fat, slowing up the absorption of alcohol and weakening intoxication. Salo goes will with alcohol since spirits help to digest fat quickly and break it down into components. Salo is not fattening if only you do not to overeat it. Food prepared with this kind of fat is healthier than food cooked in refined oil. The salted or pickled salo is the most valuable. Daily amount for an adult person is 9-12 g of salo, but not more if you want it to provide benefit. Salo is widely used as a medicinal
product, especially in case of toothache. For this it is necessary to put a small piece of salo on an aching tooth for half an hour. Pork fat mixed with salt is also helpful in cases of joint injuries. This warming mixture is applied with hermetic seal in order to relieve pain and speed up the recovery. Salo has a property to protect skin. To protect it from cold and wind, it is necessary to grease the open parts of the body. Pork fat can also come in handy to sun-seekers. It helps to get perfect suntan and avoid sunburn. Consumption of salo in reasonable portions is highly effective virus preventive treatment, especially in winter. Qualities of salo are doubled if eaten with garlic. Garlic in its turn also contains a range of healthful substances. These are phytoncids that possess the qualities of killing bacteria or suppressing its growth. Garlic is also called a natural antibiotic, it is effective both in prevention of ARVI and oncological diseases. The garlic is rich in vitamins C and PP, also in quercetin, bioflavonoid that thins the blood and inhibits blood clot formation. Besides, just like salo, it reduces the level of cholesterol in blood. You can taste the best national product in “Korchma “Taras Bulba”. We offer a wide range of salo: with garlic, pickled cucumbers, cabbage and slices of rye bread. In addition you can order either vodka or liqueur. In the atmosphere of cozy Ukrainian house prevailing in “Korchma”, we offer you to savor the best Ukrainian salo!
Smoked Lard 100 g – 190 RUR
Savoring the food products sold at supermarkets today, we pine for “the USSR taste.” Despite numerous drawbacks of the economy of that time, its food industry was at a height. It used exclusively natural ingredients. Close your eyes for a moment and try to remember the delicious taste of Soviet condensed milk, produced under GOST 2903-78. It was white with a hint of cream color, not too sweet and divinely delightful. It was made of milk and sugar only, and it cost just 37 kopecks. That was a price of a 400-gram can! It is not surprising that the product didn’t stay too long on the store shelves. Moreover, to meet the standards, it had to be packaged in tin cans and to be produced only from milk fat (8.5% of fat). If the manufacturers couldn’t fulfill the requirements, they produced it under different specifications with a correspondent label on the packaging. Few people know that the idea of the condensed milk was first suggested by the Frenchman Nicolas Appert. The Paris confectioner discovered that if you boil a bottle of juice, its contents won’t spoil for a long time. After a number of experiments he found out that milk is better preserved in tin cans, and that they don’t crack in boiling water. As a result of his studies, in 1858, the USA built the first plant specializing in condensed milk production. In the Russian Empire the production was set up a little bit later – in 1881, when a small factory opened outside Orenburg. In the Soviet Union, the launch of the production of condensed milk as well as most semi-finished products is attributed to Anastas Mikoyan, People’s Commissar for Food. In the 1930s he personally visited food industry enterprises of the capitalist countries and introduced in the USSR manufacturing of the cooked sausage, sausages, canned stewed meat, ice cream, and condensed milk. Of course it was produced not because of a surplus of milk, but in view of a forthcoming war. This product, along with flour and meat, made up the basis of the USSR State Reserve.
14 | culture
He was called a genius during his lifetime, he was named “the first Russian poet,” and he had a cult following. No wonder most of us remember his verses from our school years. Beyond his academic biography, there are other, less known but no less interesting, facts about the writer. He was an incurable gambler, a rebel, and he dueled nearly one hundred times! The last duel was fatal. This issue is dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, whose anniversary is traditionally commemorated in Russia on February 10.
Alexander Pushkin: Russian Literary Genius
A portrait of Pushkin (P. F. Sokolov) Pushkin was born in 1799 in Moscow. According to historical documents, it was a very fine day, a day when Emperor Paul’s granddaughter was born. The great news was announced by the ringing of church bells all around the country and celebrated with festive liturgies. So, by a twist of fate, the genius’s birthday was marked with a nationwide celebration. The young Alexander grew up in a literary community. His father was keen on poetry and so their house was frequented by famous writers: Zhukovskyi, Karamzin, and others. Alexander had an excellent memory and his childhood memories date back to the age of four. Several times he told a story that once, during a walk, he noticed the ground and the pillars of a building shake… It was 1803, when the last earthquake was recorded in Moscow. Approximately at that time, Alexander Pushkin met the emperor for the first time – the little Sasha was almost knocked over by the horse of Alexander I, who went out for a ride. Fortunately, the emperor halted his horse and the child wasn’t harmed. The only one who got frightened was the nanny. After some home schooling, the boy was sent to a prestigious educational institution that had just opened – the Tsarskoye Selo Lyceum. He was referred by a good friend of his uncle’s. It was not by chance that his family decided he must receive a decent education – when still a little boy, Alexander had memorized practically all the verses from the home library. Incidentally, all of them were in French. At school, Alexander Pushkin also developed his passion. There, he took interest not only in the poetry of other authors, but also started to write his own poems. “I started to write when I was 13, and at the same time my writing was printed,” he recollected later. In 1815, in the presence
of the famous poet Gavryil Derzhavin, he read out his verse “The old Derzhavin saw— and blessed us as he descended to the grave.” The first verses of the young man appeared in periodicals. Little by little, he began to gain literary fame. After graduation from the lyceum, Pushkin settled in St. Petersburg where he worked in the College of Foreign Affairs. He mingled with the elite of that time and led a lifestyle of “easy morals.” He continued writing his poem Ruslan and Lyudmila, which he had started as a student, and in his free time he promoted the ideas of civil liberties and political radicalism. The cream of the society was imbued with such sentiments. His epigrams started to travel throughout the empire. He called the tsar “a despot” and his entourage “slaves.” Moreover, the poet’s fame was increasing every day and he became a pain in the tsar’s neck. His house was searched and after long deliberation, the rebel poet was sent to exile. Then Alexander I said, “Pushkin should be exiled to Siberia: he has flooded Russia with his outrageous verses; all the young people know them by heart.” His influential friends rescued him from imprisonment. They requested he be transferred to the South... It’s worth mentioning that the authorities contemplated sending him to the Solovki Monastery, where in prayers and repentance Pushkin would come to his senses. But later the officials changed their minds, since they were afraid that Pushkin could wreak havoc among the monks. On the way to his new place of service, Alexander Pushkin swam in the river and caught pneumonia. “Having arrived to Yekaterinoslav, I got bored and road on a boat along the Dnieper, swam and caught a
fever in my usual way. General Rayevskyi, who was on his way to the Caucasus with his son and two daughters, found me delirious, without a doctor, with a jug of iced lemonade. His son ... offered to take me on a journey to the Caucasus Springs... I was ill when I got into a barrow but a week later I was as good as new,” he wrote in a letter to his brother. Later the poet settled in Kishinev where he began to write a novel in verse Eugene Onegin. He met members of a secret organization, the future Decembrists. He also joined the Masonic Lodge Ovid. In 1831, Alexander Pushkin proposed to Natalia Goncharova again. The woman accepted and soon they were married in an old church in Moscow. During the exchange of rings, Pushkin’s wedding ring fell on the floor. Then his candle extinguished. He turned pale and said: “Thos are bad omens!” The bad omens were felt a few years later. In 1834, Baron D’Anthès came to Russia; he fell in love with the poet’s wife and made her indecent proposals. Of course, after this many rumors and false stories spread and the genius lost his temper. About two years later, enraged Alexander wrote an insulting letter to D’Anthès, hoping that he would challenge him to a duel. And so he did. The men dueled on the bank of the Black River, where the poet was fatally wounded in the stomach. He died in agony two days later – on February 10 (on January 29 according to the old style), 1837. Somewhere between ten and fifty thousand people came to pay their last tribute to him. One newspaper wrote, “The sun of our poetry has set! Pushkin has died, died in the prime of life, in the midst of his great pursuits!” TEXT: Stepan Hrytsiuk
Pushkin’s Duel with D’Anthès (painting by A. A. Naumov, 1884)
news from “Korchma” | 15
Fashion, Ukrainian Style: Flowers and Ancient Ornaments
“Fashion without embroidery is like the Day of Bastille without fireworks!” says the world-famous designer Karl Lagerfeld. No wonder, since today practically all great couturiers, designing new patterns, can’t do without embroidery: from a modest ornament on a jacket or jeans to a gorgeous embroidered dress, as the Dolce & Gabbana designers did in their last collections. Experts state that embroidery will also be featured in the year 2014. Stakes are placed on it not by chance, for it is certain that this style of clothes will be popular again.
Following fashion trends and promoting family values, the Korchma Taras Bulba restaurant chain organized a fashion show of Ukrainian embroidery. The restaurant’s workers acted as professional models; shirts, blouses, and dresses for the fashion show were made by special order. Even though this event was organized by enthusiastic amateurs, it was a great success. Boys and girls walked down the catwalk with ease and smiles. Every model was welcomed with applause. The Korchma staff say that now they are working on the launch of fashionable clothes under their own trademark.
PHOTO CONTEST!
Bulba NEWS is read by the sadhu monks in Nepal.
Bubla NEWS is pleased to announce the start of a competition for its readers: “We are read around the world!” To take part, please pick up a free copy of our newspaper at any restaurant of the Korchma Taras Bulba chain and take an interesting picture with it. It can be a travel photo, vacation photo, or any staged picture. The best pictures will be published and the winners will get Korchma “Taras Bulba“ gift certificates of 15, 10 and 5 thousand RUR. You can then use them at any restaurant of our chain. Email your photos to bulbanews.ru@gmail.com
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magazine Bulba Press’ Publishing presents a new for children in 2014 – Tarasik.
Your kids deserve the best childhood!
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SALMON WITH CAVIAR CREAM SAUCE Ingredients:
Ukrainian cuisine – made with love!
• Salmon filet – 160 g • Dill – 10 g • Salt, pepper – 1 g • Vegetable oil – 30 g • Lemon juice – 5 g • For the sauce: bulb onion – 10 g • Butter – 20 g • Dry white wine – 20 g • 33 % fat cream – 60 g • Lemon juice – 5 g • Red caviar – 20 g • Salt, pepper – 1 g • Bay leaf – 1 • Olives – 3-4
Restaurants’ location:
MOSCOW, Aviamotornaya metro station, 6 Krasnokazarmennaya St., (499) 763 5741
Avtozavodskaya metro station, 6 Velozavodskaya St., (499) 764 1532
Akademicheskaya metro station, 16/10 Profsoyuznaya St., (499) 125 0877
Alekseyavskaya metro station, 3 Bochkova St., (495) 616 6754
Airport metro station, 64 Leningradskiy Prospekt St., (499) 151 9011
Baumanskaya metro station, 23/41 Bakuninskaya St., (495) 956 5580
Borovitskaya metro station, 8 Mokhovaya St., 24-hour, (495) 644 8020
Krasnye Vorota metro station, 47 Myasnitskaya St., (495) 607 1762
Preparation:
SALMON WITH CAVIAR CREAM SAUCE 130/100 g – 590 RUR.
1. Fillet the salmon and cut into pieces. 2. Add dill, lemon juice, and spices to the fish. 3. Marinate for 3-4 hours. 4. Cover with oiled foil and bake in oven 5. Mince onion. 6. Fry the onion in the butter and add bay leaf 7. Add dry white wine and lemon juice 8. Steam. 9. Add the cream. 10. Steam and add salt and some butter 11. Take cooked sauce off the stove and add the red caviar. 12. Place the fish on a plate and cover with cooked sauce. Top with olives and dill.
Leninskiy Prospekt metro station, 37 Leninskiy Prospect St., (495) 954 6466
Novokuznetskaya metro station, 14 Pyatnitskaya St., (495) 953 7153
Novye Cheryomushki metro station, Nametkina St., 13 г, (495) 331 4211
Smolenskaya metro station, 12 Smolenskiy Avenue. St., 24-hour, (499) 246 6902
Tsvetnoy Boulevard metro station, 13 Sadovaya-Samotechnaya St., 24-hour, (495) 694 0056
Chekhovskaya metro station, 30/7 Petrovka St., (495) 694 6082
Yugo-Zapadnaya metro station, 6 Borovskoye Road, (495) 980 2051
Vystavochnaya metro station, of 1905 year, 27 Shmitovskiy Passage, 24-hour, (499) 256-4660
KIEV, “Teatralnaya”, “Zolotye Vorota”,“Kreschatik” metro station, 2-4/7 Pushkinskaya St.,+38 (044) 270-7248
Look for this taste treat in our menues! Certificate of registration PI № FS 77 — 19940. Circulation is 5 000 copies.
357 West Broadway, NYork City, NY 10013 phone: (212) 510 75 10
Laskavo prosymo!