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ŠCopyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
Byways Magazine is celebrating its 32ndyear of publication in 2015, featuring the leading travel destinations along the highways and byways of North America. Byways is published in two versions, a free Turn-Key edition on the web for viewing on Computers, Android, iPhone and iPad. An Apple Newsstand/App Store edition including sound and interactive video is also available. All advertising and editorial is included in both versions of the publication. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine 502-785-4875 http://bywaysmagazine.com
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PREVIEW
By Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher
elcome to Byways Mountains the Gilded Age, or the early 20th century and the era of and Valleys issue. We travel FDR. The Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Home, from west to east to explore Library & Museum is an immersive experience and The some of the most breathtaking scenery Spirit of the Gift exhibit showcases nearly 100 presidential gifts given to FDR. in North America. In West Virginia we visit Wheeling, a city steeped in We begin the journey in Arizona with rich history, Wheeling is established with a solid reputaa visit to Sedona, and we learn why it’s tion for friendliness and is a city bursting with activities more than a day trip. In fact, it would take weeks to take for all ages. in beautiful scenery here, but we’ll let the photos tell the Following a tour through history, stop by Wheeling story. From historic Indian ruins, to a meteor crater to Heritage Port where you’ll marvel at the Wheeling wine tasting, this is a trip of a lifetime. Suspension bridge, part of US National Road. The 1010Next stop is Salt Lake City, where we learn why Utah foot, single-span bridge opened in 1849, predating the settled along the massive Civil War. Upon opening, it Wasatch Mountain Range. was the longest suspension Known as the Wasatch Front, bridge in the world and the first this area is now home to some 2 bridge to cross the Ohio River. million people. The mountains Next we head further south were a vital source of water, where we learn how the wine timber and granite for early setshines in North Carolina’s tlers, and today 85 percent of Yadkin Valley. Winston-Salem Utah’s population lives within is the gateway to the state’s 15 miles of the Wasatch Range. most popular wineries, and the It’s also home to world-class Yadkin Valley has become one ski resorts, with hundreds of of the top producing wine miles of mountain biking and regions in the eastern United The Wasatch & Salt Lake City hiking trails through the States. canyons and alpine valleys of Originating in the 16th century, when Sir Walter the Wasatch. Raleigh landed on the coast and discovered the scupperNext stop is the Palo Duro, the Grand Canyon of mong vine, North Carolina’s wine industry was the top Texas. It’s the second largest canyon in the country, and in the union by 1840. It began a decline in 1920 with lies in the heart of the Texas Panhandle, about 25 miles prohibition. Today, farmland has been returned to growfrom Amarillo. ing grapes, and the industry in the Yadkin Valley is The canyon has been inhabited for 12,000 years, and booming. more recently the Apache, Comanche and Kiowa Indians In What’s Happening, we visit the Las Vegas Mob used the canyon’s many resources. Museum, the National Museum of Organized Crime and The canyon is a state park, Palo Duro Canyon State Law Enforcement. It seems crime pays, as the museum park, and there is plenty to do here. has attracted 500,000 visitors from all 50 states and 35 One of the most well-known is hosting the summer foreign countries in just two years! performances of the outdoor musical drama, TEXAS. In Arkansas, we visit Hot Springs as the Fordyce Celebrating its 50th season this year, a lone horseman Bathhouse turns 100. Today the Fordyce on Bathhouse traditionally opens the show atop a 600 foot cliff, signalRow serves as the Hot Springs National Park’s visitor ing the beginning on one of the most spectacular outdoor musical drams anywhere. Only a state as big as Texas center. Through the Fordyce’s exhibits on thermal bathing, learn about Hot Springs bathing history. could host a show as big as TEXAS! Finally, we follow-up on the recent story on New Next it’s north to New York State, and Dutchess York’s One World Trade Center. Next month the County, the perfect backdrop for the Hudson Valley. Observatory on the Top of One World Trade Center is Nature lovers will delight in an abundance of formal garopening with unparcelled views of New York City. It’s dens and nature sanctuaries, and history buffs will going to be an experience you won’t want to miss! explore the pre-Revolutionary War, early Quaker days, 4 • Byways
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Volume 32, Issue No. 2, 2015
On the cover. Cathedral Rock near Sedona, Arizona is featured on the Mountains and Valley issue cover. For more on Mountains & Valleys, turn to page 8. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.
Features
Mountains & Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Sedona, Arizona -- More Than A Day Trip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Utah Settles Along the Wasatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Palo Duro, The Grand Canyon of Texas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Dutchess County: Hudson Valley Picture Perfect for Fun. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Steeped in History, Wheeling is West Virginia’s “Friendly City’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Wine Shines in North Carolina’s Yadkin Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Departments
Byways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
What’s Happening
The Mob Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Hot Springs Fordyce Bathhouse Turns 100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Observatory at Top of One World Trade Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Coming in future issues of Byways…. . .Ocean destinations along the Atlantic, Pacific and Gulf, Rivers and Lakes, Great American Roads, The Leading North American Tour Destinations, and much more! Coming Up: Cruising the California Coast is featured in Byways annual Ocean Views issue. Also featuring destinations along the Atlantic, Gulf and Pacific Oceans.
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Mountains & Valleys
A young woman meditates in the breathtaking scenery near Sedona, Arizona. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau. 8 • Byways
Sedona, Arizona -More Than a Day Trip!
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Reflections of Cathedral Rock in the water near Sedona, Arizona. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.
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eople love to travel, looking for beautiful places to visit and experience. One of those places is just south of the Grand Canyon, Sedona, Arizona. Sedona is recognized for the glorious red rock, but there is so much more.
Sedona Day Trips – You’ll Want More than Just One Day! Sedona, Arizona is visited by people from around the world, all of whom seek different adventures. For many the main attractions are the numerous hiking trails with just as much variety in difficulty, and the miles of biking paths available around the town. It would take weeks to explore every one of them and see the beautiful natural scenery each offers. For others, their interest may be in the eclectic art scene and the various galleries scattered throughout Sedona. But there is so much more to Sedona than nature walks and unique art shops. Sedona is located near a multitude of locations that make perfect day trips. Sedona is located near two different Native American ruin sites: the Palatki Ruins and the Honaki Indian Ruins. These two villages were lively centers of daily life and culture from AD 1150 – 1300. The Palatki site features ancient cliff dwellings and pictographs. Three different trails in the site offer three unique experiences. The first takes visitors up to the Sinagua cliff dwellings; the second leads to a view of the dwellings from higher up; and the third takes you to the alcoves that shelter the cave paintings from the cultures that once occupied the Verde Valley. The Honaki Indian ruins is a sister site from around the same historical time, which also displays cliff dwellings and rock art. These sites
were the homes of the Sinagua people, the ancestors of the Hopi people who still live in the area today. In fact, Sedona is located near one of the largest Hopi reservations in the country. Today, the Hopi people live in three different areas in the Southwestern United States: the first mesa, second mesa, and third mesa. While the language, customs, and traditions are similar between all three areas, each reservation or village conducts its own ceremonies and has features that are unique from the other two. Sedona is located closest to the second mesa, which includes three villages (Shungopavi, Mishongovi, and Sipaulovi). This area has been lived in for over one thousand years. Spend a day visiting the cultural center and exploring the beautiful rock formations of this amazing village. You can see social dances, as well as visit galleries of art and crafts that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Photography is prohibited on the reservation, so the only way to see the beauty and culture of the second mesa is to experience it yourself with your own eyes. If an ideal day trip involves fewer ruins and museums, maybe the world’s best-preserved meteorite impact site will prove more interesting? The Meteor Crater is an astonishing site, the result of an asteroid colliding with the surface of the earth at an estimated 26,000 miles per hour. The crater is almost a mile across and is deep enough to expose multiple layers of stone and rock that now lie in an inverted order due to the impact. The Meteor Crater was established as a landmark in 1967, and a modern visitor center is located right on the rim of the crater. There a visitor can enjoy an 80-seat widescreen theatre, indoor viewing area, crater trail access, interactive discovery center, artifacts and exhibits, and gift shop.
Downtown Sedona - Route 89A. Photo courtesy Ken Lund.
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Rushing waters flow beneath Cathedral Rock. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.
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Meteor Crater Aerial View. Photo courtesy Shane Torgerson.
However, Sedona can serve as a central location for more than just hikes, museums, and visitor centers. Sedona and the surrounding areas of Page Springs and Cornville are the center of Arizona’s wine country. The higher altitude, rich soil, and weather patterns make it ideal for cultivating reds like Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet as well as sweeter whites like Chardonnay.
Wine tasting in Sedona is the perfect way to sample the finest wines at the nicest wine bars and wineries in the area. And where there is good wine, there is good food! Sedona’s wine bars and restaurants offer delicious dishes to fill your stomach as you sample different selections from local wineries. Local experts will be able to customize your tasting experience with anything from a one-on-one tasting to
Cathedral Rock at sunset. Photo courtesy Sedona Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau.
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group tastings. There are even jeep excursions that allow you to tour the areas where the wine is grown before returning to town. These are just a small selection of the different day trips that Sedona offers. There are many more attractions to be seen and adventures to be had on your trip to Sedona. One thing you will need while you fill your days with these wonderful sites is a place to return to
after the adventure is over. El Portal Sedona Hotel, which helped in preparing this article, can be your home while exploring Sedona and countryside. The boutique hotel is centrally located and with knowledgeable staff who offer personalized concierge services for the Sedona area. El Portal Sedona is the perfect place to rest and relax between trips! http://visitsedona.com
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Utah Settles Along the Wasatch
The Wasatch Mountain Range frames the Salt Lake City Skyline. Photo by Douglas Pulsipher, courtesy Visit Salt Lake. Byways • 17
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Mount Olympus. Photo courtesy Douglas Pulsipher and Visit Salt Lake.
ince the earliest days of Utah settlement, the majority of the state’s population has chosen to settle along the Wasatch Mountain range’s western front, where numerous river drainages exit the mountains. The Wasatch Mountain Range stretches some 160 miles from the Utah-Idaho border, south through central Utah. The mountains were a vital source of water, timber, and granite for early settlers. Today, 85% of Utah’s population lives within 15 miles of the Wasatch Range, 18 • Byways
mainly in the valleys just to the west. This concentration is known as the Wasatch Front and has a population of just over 2,000,000 residents. Salt Lake City lies between the Wasatch Range and the Great Salt Lake. At 11,928 feet, Mount Nebo, a triple peak rising above Nephi, Utah at the southern end of the range, is the highest peak of the Wasatch. In some places the mountains rise immediately from the valley’'s base elevation of 4,330 feet to over 11,000 feet, producing steep inclines. Other notable peaks include Mount Timpanogos, a
Francis Peak overlooking both Morgan and Davis counties; and Ben Lomond and Mount Ogden, both near Ogden, Utah. The northern Wasatch Range is punctuated by a series of mountain valleys. While the western side of the range drops sharply to the floors of the Wasatch Front valleys, the eastern side of the range is gentler, allowing for the construction of several ski resorts. The Cottonwoods, a particularly rugged and dense area just east of the Salt Lake Valley, shelters small mountain coves that harbor four world-famous ski resorts (Alta, Brighton, Solitude, and Snowbird). The eastern slopes of the Cottonwoods drop to the Snyderville Basin, which contains Park City and its three neighboring ski resorts. Much of the eastern side of the range from north of Salt Lake City to the Bear River Mountains is especially gentle in comparison to the rest of the range. The range widens significantly east of Ogden, sheltering a high mountain valley known as the Ogden Valley. Three more ski resorts lie here, as well as several small towns, Huntsville, Liberty, and Eden. Throughout the length of the Wasatch Range, it is traversed by just 7 highways. The two most prominent are I-80 through Parley’s Canyon east of Salt Lake City, and I-84 through Weber Canyon east of Ogden. They meet near the ghost town of Echo on the eastern slopes of the range and continue northeast as I-80. Other highways through the range include U.S. 6/U.S. 89 through Spanish Fork Canyon, U.S. 189 through Provo Canyon, Utah State Route 39 extending east from Huntsville (a route which is closed in winter), U.S. 89/U.S. 91 through Logan Canyon, and along Idaho State Route 36 near the northern end of the range. In addition to the world class ski resorts, the Wasatch
massive peak which looms over much of southern Salt Lake County and northern Utah County and is especially prominent from Provo. Also, Lone Peak, the Twin Peaks, and Mount Olympus, which overlook the Salt Lake Valley;
Four famous Wasatch Ski Resorts are just 30 minutes from downtown Salt Lake City. Photo by Patrick Orton, courtesy Visit Salt Lake.
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Big Cottonwood Canyon. Photo by Steve Greenwood, courtesy Visit Salt Lake.
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range is home to a host of other outdoor pursuits as well. Hundreds of miles of mountain biking and hiking trails wind through the canyons and alpine valleys of the Wasatch offering back country access in very close proximity to a large metropolitan area. Outdoor enthusiasts can also find world class rock climbing and mountaineering on the towering limestone, granite and quartzite peaks and in many of the surrounding canyons. Winter recreation includes excellent ski touring & ski mountaineering. Alpine lakes and streams offer many fishing
Summer Snowbird Tram. Photo by Adam Barker, courtesy Visit Salt Lake. opportunities. The Wasatch Mountain Club offers regular activities allowing one to experience the Wasatch Range. The Utah Native Plant Society regularly conducts walks from spring until fall along the foothills of the Central Wasatch Front and in adjoining canyons as the seasons progress. A particularly spectacular location for wildflowers in the late summer is Albion Basin at the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Visit Salt Lake
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Palo Duro, The Grand Canyon of Texas
Lighthouse Rock, the Palo Duro Canyon of Texas. Photo courtesy Texas State Parks & Wildlife.
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The Grand Canyon of Texas. Photo courtesy TEXAS Outdoor Musical.
he second largest canyon in the country lies in the heart of the Texas Panhandle. Visit Palo Duro Canyon State Park; experience the canyon’s rugged beauty and enjoy its colorful history. Palo Duro Canyon State Partk is located in the Texas Panhandle, about 25 miles from Amarillo. People have inhabited Palo Duro Canyon for about 12,000 years. The Clovis and Folsom peoples first lived in the canyon and hunted large herds of mammoth and giant bison. Other cultures, such as the Apache, Comanche and Kiowa, used the canyon’s plentiful resources more recently. These early cultures left behind rock art and bedrock mortars, where they ground mesquite beans and roots for food. Preserve the past by looking at but not touching any artifacts that you see. Early Spanish explorers probably discovered the canyon, naming it Palo Duro, Spanish for hard wood.
A decisive battle occurred in the canyon on Sept. 28, 1874. Colonel Ranald S. Mackenzie led the 4th U.S. Cavalry in a surprise attack at dawn on a camp of Comanches, Kiowas and Cheyennes. The families fled up the canyon, leaving everything behind. MacKenzie’s troops captured 1,400 ponies and shot most of them. Soldiers also burned all the teepees and winter stores. With no horses or supplies, the families had no choice but to return to the reservation. The reign of Native Americans over the Panhandle plains ended soon after.
Ranch Era
Charles Goodnight, a former Texas Ranger, drove 1,600 Longhorn cattle to the canyon in 1876. He and his partner John Adair, an English aristocrat, founded the JA Ranch in 1877. At its peak in 1885, the ranch grazed 100,000 head of cattle on 1,325,000 acres spread across the Panhandle. The state bought the land for the park from Fred S. Emory in 1933. Soon after, Civilian Conservation Corps Battle of Palo Duro workers arrived, and spent the next five years creating a The Red River War between the U.S. Army and southern Plains Indians lasted from June 1874 to spring 1875. park. 24 • Byways
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TEXAS Musical drama performed in the Pioneer Amphitheatre in Palo Duro State Park. Photos courtesy TEXAS Outdoor Musical.
Things to Do
Explore the canyon by foot, mountain bike, horse or car. There are more than 30 miles of hiking, biking and equestrian trails. Camp, geocache, study nature or bird watch. During the summer, enjoy a performance of the outdoor musical drama TEXAS.
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TEXAS, the Outdoor Musical Celebrates 50th Season
lone Horseman, carrying the flag of the great state of Texas appears atop a 600 foot cliff, signaling the beginning of the most spectacular outdoor musical drama in the world. With a moving swell of the music, the horseman gallops away. Suddenly, a cast of more than 60 actors, singers and dancers takes the stage to kick off the show that millions of fans from all around the world have come to see. Only a state as big as Texas could host a show as big as TEXAS! The Pioneer Amphitheatre, carved out of and nestled into a natural basin in the majestic Palo Duro Canyon comes alive once again this summer with the 50th Anniversary Season of the Official Play of the State of Texas. TEXAS runs Tuesdays through Sundays in the sum26 • Byways
A cast of more than 60 actors, singers and dancers takes the stage at the TEXAS Outdoor Musical.
mer at the Pioneer Amphitheatre in the park. Watch the stories, struggles and triumphs of early settlers. The familyfriendly show has singing, dancing, fireworks and lots of Texas humor! Come early for a barbecue dinner on the covered patio. For tickets, call the box office at 806655-2181 or visit the TEXAS website.
Park Visitor Center
Stop by the Palo Duro State Park Visitor Center on the canyon rim to learn more about the park. The park store at the Visitor Center sells books, pottery, jewelry and more. Look for souvenirs, snacks and meals at The Trading Post on the canyon floor.
Park Horseback ridingÂ
Ride on trails through 1,500 acres set aside for horseback riding. You can also share two other trails with hikers and mountain bikers. Bring your own horses (original Coggins papers required). Park your trailer at the equestrian campground and bring a water bucket for your horse! Old West Stables on the canyon floor leads tours for the whole family or group to Timber Creek Canyon. They also offer souvenirs and a snack bar. Reservations required; call (806) 4882180. Byways • 27
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Dutchess County Hudson Valley’s Picture Perfect Backdrop for Fun!
Walkway over the Hudson River. Byways • 29
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Photo courtesy of Innisfree Garden.
he gift of nature is ever present in Dutchess County of the Hudson Valley and there are so many ways to see it all; a walk along the river’s banks or a guided hike through the highlands with Hike New York, a visit to the intimate Trevor Zoo, a relaxing river boat cruise, an exciting bi-plane ride. And you even arrive via a scenic train ride on Amtrak. Nature lovers will delight in an abundance of formal gardens and nature sanctuaries from the strictly imposed order of a terraced, ornamental garden to the undisturbed naturalness of a forest preserve. A stroll through Innisfree Garden offers a combination of modern design and Asian “cup” gardens with rare plants and flowers and a shimmering lake; a sublime composition of rock, water, wood and sky. Historic sites are a main attraction of the Dutchess County landscape. Not only can you step back in time, you can choose which time; pre-Revolutionary War, early Quaker days, the Gilded Age, or the early 20th century and the era of FDR. The Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Home, Library & Museum is an immersive experience and The Spirit of the Gift exhibit showcases nearly 100 presidential gifts given to FDR by governments, organizations, and private individuals. (April 25-Dec 31, 2015). Dutchess is home to miles of uninterrupted bike trails. They connect to Walkway Over the Hudson, the world’s longest pedestrian bridge. The park’s new glass 30 • Byways
AMTRAK on the Hudson River.
Crown Maple Syrup Tasting at Madava Farms.
CCS Hessel Museum at Bard. Byways • 31
elevator can whisk you up the top in a mere 90 seconds for unbelievable views. Try your hand at sporting clays, trap or skeet shooting at seven clubs and game preserves including the nation’s oldest shooting grounds, Orvis Sandanona. On it, over it, or even in it; Dutchess’ 30 miles of Hudson River frontage encourage fishing, swimming, kayaking, and waterside dining. Commune with nature at 16 championship golf courses, two are among the oldest in the USA. You’ll find a variety of sizes and designs including an Irish links-style course. Whatever your tastes in the arts you'll find a museum to match your mood. How about an 18th-century oil painting by Hudson River School master Frederic Church? Or a giant modern sculpture by visionary artist Richard Serra? Browse the fine art collections at Dia:Beacon, Vassar’s Loeb Art Center, and Bard’s CCS Hessel Museum. Gallery spaces flourish, featuring multi-media works from area artists, as well as curated collections from around the world. Dance, drama, film and music all have a home in Dutchess. Performing art spaces run the gamut from one 32 • Byways
FDR Map Room. Photo courtesy FDR Presidential Library.
of the country’s oldest, the Bardavon, to one of the newest, Richard B. Fisher Center for Performing Arts, a bold architectural wonder designed by Frank O. Gehry. Check out the nightlife, from music and comedy clubs like the Towne Crier Café and Daryl’s House, to neighborhood pubs and mellow wine bars. Photo Courtesy Andrew Halpern Staatsburgh State Historic Site.
Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts. Photo courtesy Peter Aaron.
Whether you are looking for that one-of-a-kind antique, a memorable farm-to-table meal, a nostalgic drive-in movie theater, a carefully crafted artisanal beer, a spectacular mountain view, or your own personal connection to America’s history, you can find it in Dutchess County. For more information, contact Dutchess Tourism Inc. http://dutchesstourism.com/ Photo courtesy Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site.
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Steeped in History, Wheeling is West Virginia’s “Friendly City”
heeling, West Virginia’s scenic riverfront location, century-spanning historical sites and award-winning events solidify the area’s reputation as a memorable and affordable destination experience. Steeped in rich history, Wheeling is established with a solid reputation for friendliness and is a city bursting with activities for all ages. It’s no wonder Wheeling residents stand by its reputation of being known as “The Friendly City!” Arriving in Wheeling, the best place to start is where 34 • Byways
it all began - West Virginia Independence Hall. Originally constructed as the Wheeling Custom House, the facility provided space for heated political discussions and constitutional conventions that led to eventual statehood for West Virginia in 1863. Here, issues dividing many Virginians - slavery being one of many - were debated, compromised and shaped. Today, WV Independence Hall has been authentically restored, and includes such exhibits as “Waving for Liberty and the Union,” a display of West Virginia’s Civil War battle flags. Historical Figure tours are offered
Suspension Bridge is still in operation to this day for vehicle and pedestrian traffic, so be sure to include it on your trip through history. You will want to experience North Wheeling, also known as Victorian Olde Town. Here, tour the “Crown Jewel” of Victorian Wheeling: 1892’s Eckhart House. Along with the tour, you will also enjoy a lovely tea experience including gourmet tea and assorted confections, and shopping in the unique gift shoppe. Your next stop will take you the Wheeling Artisan Center, a renovated industrial building with a three-story atrium in the heart of Downtown. Following lunch at River City (1st Floor), discover retail shopping at The Emporium (2nd Floor) showcasing the best of West Virginia and regional artisans plus a large selection of the state’s food products. While shopping, take note of the “Made in Wheeling” exhibits, highlighting Wheeling’s rich industrial heritage. The Loft Gallery (3rd Floor) hosts a rotating exhibit by local artisans. From the Wheeling Artisan Center, travel to what locals consider to be Wheeling’s cultural district, Center Wheeling, home to Centre Market. Built in 1853, the Upper Market House is the oldest market house in the country. The Lower Market House, added in 1891, is
Wheeling’s scenic riverfront location along the banks of the Ohio River. Photos courtesy Visit Wheeling.
for the full experience. Following your tour through history, be sure to stop by Wheeling Heritage Port where you marvel at the Wheeling Suspension bridge, part of US National Road. The 1010-foot, single-span bridge opened in 1849, predating the Civil War. Upon opening, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world and the first bridge to cross the Ohio River. Considered the original “Gateway to the West,” it served as a model for later projects, including the Brooklyn Bridge and San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. The Wheeling
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home to Coleman’s Fish Market - a Wheeling institution for 100 years. Centre Market continues to operate as it did when it opened over 150 years ago, with all locally-owned shops, restaurants, boutiques lining the halls of both Markets. The district has since expanded and includes shops, restaurants, and other businesses in the Victorian buildings in the surrounding the area. End your tour of historic Wheeling with a show at Wheeling’s historic 1929 Capitol Theatre. For many years, it was home to the Wheeling Jamboree and Jamboree USA, once the 2nd longest running radio show in the USA. Since its opening, it has been home to the Wheeling Symphony Orchestra, which is currently in its 36 • Byways
Wheeling’s historic 1929 Capitol Theatre.
North Wheeli Olde Town. P
Wheeling’s Island Hotel & Casino/Racetrack. 85th season. After being purchased by the WheelingOhio County Convention & Visitors Bureau in 2009, the Theatre went through a long list of renovations, including all new seating and its first elevator. Along with the Symphony, the Capitol also hosts an annual Broadway Season and national-touring acts and tours, from the Avett Brothers to Jerry Seinfeld. From shopping and dining at The Highlands, to taking a chance
ing, also known as Victorian Photos courtesy Visit Wheeling.
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at Wheeling Island Hotel & Casino/Racetrack, to a drive through Oglebay Resort's Winter Festival of Lights, there’s never been a better time to experience Wheeling! Plan your getaway at www.VisitWheelingWV.com or call 800.828.3097 to request your free 2015 Wheeling/Ohio County Visitors Guide.
Oglebay Resort in Wheeling, WV.
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The main building of the Shelton Winery. Photo Courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.
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Wine Shines in North Carolina’s Yadkin Valley
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inston-Salem is the gateway to North Carolina’s most popular wineries, located just minutes from the Yadkin Valley -- considered one of the top-producing wine regions in the Eastern U.S. Spanning more than 1.4 million acres, the Yadkin Valley is the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) in North Carolina (est. 2003) and boasts more than 35 of the state’s award-winning wineries. Shaped like a boomerang, bordering Virginia, Winston-Salem sits in the heart of the picturesque region. A thriving, artsy city of more than 250,000 people, with independent restaurants and a Moravian food tradition dating back to 1753, Winston-Salem is the perfect base from which to explore the Yadkin Valley region. Dotted throughout the rolling hills of the Yadkin Valley, winery tasting rooms are located anywhere from five to 45 minutes apart from each other -- depending on your route -- and provide spectacular countryside scenery. The tasting rooms offer styles and atmospheres as distinct as the wineries themselves. From a centuries-old farmhouse and open-air tasting room, to an elegant, oversized room and intimate chamber, all offer wonderful settings to celebrate the art of winemaking. Originating in the 16th century, when Sir Walter Raleigh landed on the coast of North Carolina and discovered the scuppernong vine, North Carolina’s wine 40 • Byways
The grounds of the Childress Winery. Photo courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.
The Childress Winery. Photo courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.
Valley vineyards produce European-vinifera varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot and Syrah. At a few select wineries, you can find Traminette, as well as Italian varietals such as Vermentino, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Malbec, Petit Verdot and others. The sweet, native muscadine grape with its thick skin and intense fruity aroma also grows naturally here. While a few vintners in the Yadkin Valley market this grape, the region is gaining a strong repThe Pinot Grigio Harvest. utation as an award-winning produce of European-vinifera varietals. industry was top in the Union by 1840. Starting in 1920, In addition to traditional winery tours and tastings, visprohibition slowed wine production. Decades later, Yadkin Valley residents turned their itors can enjoy the Yadkin Valley vineyards at two of farmlands back into vineyards, taking advantage of the North Carolina’s biggest annual wine events in Winstonarea’s red-clay soil and mild climate. Today, Yadkin Salem. The North Carolina Wine Festival is held at the
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The main gate of th Shelton Winery. Photo courtesy Visit Winston-Salem.
end of May, and Salute! The North Carolina Wine Celebration is the first week in June in downtown Winston-Salem. For information regarding seasonal tours of the Yadkin Valley, please visit VisitWinstonSalem.com/wine. To learn more about customized group tour offerings, contact Kay Calzolari, Visit Winston-Salem Group Tour and Services Manager at 336-728-4237 or email her at Kay@VisitWinstonSalem.com. Byways • 41
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The Las Vegas MOB Museum
here are two sides to every story -- and then there’s the truth. The Mob Museum, the National Museum of Organized Crime and Law Enforcement, is a world-class destination in downtown Las Vegas that presents an exciting and authentic view of the Mob’s impact on Las Vegas history and its unique imprint on the world. The Mob Museum is a world-renowned, award-winning destination in Las Vegas, attracting 500,000
With tales so intriguing they need no embellishment, the Museum reveals an insider’s look at the events and people on both sides of this continuing battle. True stories of Mob history are brought to life in a bold and contemporary style via engaging exhibits and multi-sensory experiences. The Mob Museum puts the visitor in the middle of the action through high-tech theater presentations, iconic, one-of-a-kind artifacts and interactive, themed environments. The Museum has acquired some of the most iconic artifacts in Mob history including the barber chair Albert Anastasia was sitting in when murdered in
g n i n e p p a H s ’ t Wha
New York City, and the brick wall from the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre in Chicago in 1929. The v i s i t o r s Museum opened on Valentine’s Day 2012, the 83rd hailing from all 50 states and anniversary of the Massacre where seven men affiliated nearly 35 countries in its first two-plus years. with Bugs Moran’s gang were lined up along the wall,
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The Tommy Gun Simulator. Photos courtesy The Mob Museum.
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The courtroom where in 1950 one of 14 national Kefauver hearings was held to expose organized crime in America. Photos courtesy The Mob Museum. shot and killed by Al Capone’s South Side Italian gang. Artifacts integrated throughout the Museum’s interactive exhibits provide an insider’s look into many of organized crime’s biggest names, including Al Capone, Dion O’Bannion, George Moran, Charlie “Lucky” Luciano, Meyer Lansky, Ben Siegel, Sam Giancana, Joe Bonanno, Frank Rosenthal, Mickey Cohen, Tony 44 • Byways
Cornero, Whitey Bulger and John Gotti to name just a few. The Museum is located in what many consider the ultimate artifact, the former federal courthouse and United States Post Office. Completed in 1933 and listed on the Nevada and National Registers of Historic Places, it houses the courtroom where in 1950 one of 14 national Kefauver hearings was held to expose organized crime
in America. Meticulously rehabilitated for The Mob Museum, the building is significant not only for its neo-classical architecture reminiscent of the period in which it was built, but also for the historic events that unfolded inside of it. In addition, items and artifacts relating to law enforcement’s role in helping to eradicate and control the Mob, such as weapons, wiretapping tools and tactics and crime scene photos, are also shown. The Mob Museum is a modern-day museum and offers highly experiential and interactive exhibits. Fascinating stories are brought to life through one-of-a-kind artifacts, interactive touch screens and unique ways to engage with law enforcement and organized crime. For example, visitors can “shoot” a simulated Tommy gun, listen to real FBI surveillance tapes on wiretapping equipment and take part in FBI weapons training. For more information, call (702-229-2734 or online at www.TheMobMuseum.org. www.Facebook.com/TheMobMuseum, or Twitter: @TheMobMuseum.
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The Fordyce Bathhouse in Hot Springs. Photo courtesy Arkansas Department of Parks & Tourism.
Hot Springs Fordyce Bathhouse Turns 100
he Fordyce on Bathhouse Row in Hot Springs National Park in Arkansas turns 100 this year. Bathhouse Row is a National Historic Landmark District and eight picturesque and historic bathhouses are located there, including the Fordyce, which serves as the park’s visitor center. The Fordyce opened March 1, 1915. Owner Colonel Samuel Fordyce spent over $200,000 dollars to build the facility, which became known as the most luxurious bathhouse in the city at the time and a beacon of prestige in town. President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited the Fordyce in 1936 when he came to Hot Springs to celebrate the Arkansas Centennial. The Fordyce closed in 1962 and remained vacant until its reopening as the park’s visitor center in the late 1980s. Located in the middle of Bathhouse Row, the Fordyce today has exhibits on the thermal bathing industry. Via a self-guided or guided jaunt, you can check out the many different rooms, which appear as they did during the Fordyce’s prime. 46 • Byways
“Samuel Fordyce, the owner and operator, wanted his bathhouse to be the leader in modern technologies of thermal water treatments,” said Nalissala L. Allen, park guide at Hot Springs National Park. “He spared no expense in building the Fordyce, from the mosaic tile floors and Carrara Italian Marble walls to the stained glass skylights in the men’s bath hall and assembly room. Samuel wanted the Fordyce to be a testimony for his own health and well-being. He wanted the bathhouse to reflect how the thermal water had healed him.” Allen, who has been a guide at the park for five years, said when visiting the Fordyce that seeing the first and third floors are a must, especially if you are short on time. “The first floor is the bath halls for men and women, as well as the hydrotherapy room,” she said. “Here is where most people can imagine how and why the early settlers came here. On the third floor [at the gymnasium] you can learn about how, as a society, we have changed our perception of physical fitness. The assembly room is where men and women came together to socialize with one another, by playing a friendly game of cards or billiards, singing a song around the Knable piano or just sitting and enjoying a nice conversation with someone.” Allen added that the Fordyce, which is located at 369 Central Avenue, also offers a 15-minute movie about the
park’s history and geology and there is a 9-minute bathing video that shows the traditional bath routine in one of the operating bathhouses. “The Fordyce is a window into our past,” said Allen. “Here we can see the history of our culture and modern medicine. It is a great place to spend the day and imagine how things were back in that time. You can do either a self-guided or guided tour. Watch the movie and the video or just relax and sit down in one of the rocking chairs on the front porch and watch the day go by. People have been coming to the Fordyce for many years. After you take a look around, you will see why it was considered to be the best.” Along with the 100th anniversary of the Fordyce, overall there is positive momentum taking place on Bathhouse Row. The Superior Bathhouse Brewery and Distillery now makes its own brew on site and is the world’s only brewery and distillery using thermal spring water as the main ingredient. Two facilities still operate in their original capacity as bathhouses. The park’s objective is to open all the buildings to the public. “Most of the bathhouses will open as adaptive reuse,” said Allen. “This means the bathhouses may not be used to provide baths or spa services, but will be used in other ways, such as the current brewery and Ozark Bathhouse Cultural Center. At present the park is negoti-
The Fordyce Reading Room. Above, a typical Fordyce Bath. Photos courtesy Library of Congress.
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ating a lease for the Hale, and the Friends of Hot Springs National Park are raising the necessary funds to repair the Maurice for investment by a future lessee.” When touring Bathhouse Row, Allen said visitors should be sure to see the park’s namesake attraction. “The thermal water is the reason why the park was set aside,” said Allen. “The springs in Hot Springs National Park were the first, and continue to be, the only federally controlled hot springs in the United States to be managed for both public health and consumptive use. Hot Springs National Park is the only unit of the national park system that is mandated to give away its primary natural resource to the general public in an unending and unaltered state.” Allen said to note that these are not thermal springs that you can jump into. “The springs are 143 degrees (F) and they are hot,” she said. Thermal springs occur elsewhere in the U.S., particu48 • Byways
Typical men’s bath. Photo courtesy Library of Congress.
larly where there has been recent volcanic activity. The water of Hot Springs National Park, however, is rare, especially in the central part of the continent. “An unusual set of geologic conditions of the Ouachita Mountains has created and maintained the flow of hot waters here in a small valley in central Arkansas,” said Allen. Allen said along with Bathhouse Row, the national park is home to 5,500 acres to explore including over 25 miles of hiking trails that lead to scenic vistas and to destinations like the Hot Springs Mountain Tower, which offers an aerial view of downtown Hot Springs and the surrounding Ouachita National Forest. For more details on Hot Springs National Park, visit NPS.gov/hosp.
Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel managers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875. ©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher. Editor and Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
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Best Western Colorado River Inn, California. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Brenham/Washington County, Texas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
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Silverado Casino/Franklin Hotel, Deadwood, South Dakota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
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Observatory at Top of One World Trade Center Provides Unparalleled Panoramic Views of New York City
One World Observatory is at the top of One World Trade Center, the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere. Photo courtesy One World Observatory. 50 • Byways
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ositioned on top of the tallest building in the Western Hemisphere -- on levels 100, 101, and 102 of the One World Trade Center building -- One World Observatory provides guests with unique, panoramic views of New York City, its most iconic sites, and surrounding waters from above 1,250 feet. One World Observatory opens the last week in May. A customized guest experience complements the seemingly endless views, which evoke feelings of the City’s signature pride, hope and determination -- and include exhibits and dining options, including a sit-down restaurant. The experience invites guests to explore all three levels, each equipped with the latest in innovative technology. Upon entry, guests are greeted in the Global Welcome Center, where a large video board features salutations in an array of languages, and a dynamically generated world map will highlight the hometowns of visitors. Guests then proceed to a pre-show program, titled Voices, which tells the personal stories of the men and women who built One World Trade Center, and Foundations, which displays facts about the very bedrock on which the building stands. Visitors board one of five dedicated elevators, termed Sky Pods, to ascend to the 102nd floor in under 60 seconds. Immersive, floor-to-ceiling LED technology in each cab invites guests to experience a virtual time-lapse that recreates the development of New York City’s skyline from the 1600s to present day. 52 • Byways
The Sky Pod elevators, among the fastest in the world, bring passengers directly to the See ForeverTM Theater on the 102nd floor. The See ForeverTM Theater presents a two-minute video presentation that combines bird’s eye imagery, time-lapse shots with abstract textures and patterns to present the unique rhythm and pulse of New York City to dramatic life in three dimensions. The Main Observatory space on the 100th floor includes an interactive skyline “concierge” -- City Pulse -- that allows guests to deeply connect with the landmarks and neighborhoods they observe from above. At City Pulse, global ambassadors are stationed under a ring of HD video monitors and outfitted in gesture recognition technology, summoning imagery to the screens and providing guests with close-up views and personalized recommendations. The Main Observatory also features the Sky Portal where guests are invited to step onto a 14- foot wide circular disc that will deliver an unforgettable view, using real-time, high-definition footage of the streets below. Special discounts are offered to active and retired members of the U.S. military. Special group rates, for 20 or more, are also available to travel professionals, corporate groups, organizations, schools and camps. Submit your inquiry online at www.OneWorldObservatory.com/groups. For more information on tickets, please visit www.OneWorldObservatory.com.
One World Observatory is located at the top of One World Trade Center in New York City. Photo courtesy One World Observatory.
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