Byways Dams & Bridges 2023

FeaturingNorthAmerica’sLeadingTravelDestinations

WelcometoByways annualDams& Bridgesissue.

Ourcoverstoryfeaturesthe historicWheelingSuspension BridgeinWheeling,West Virginia.Thebridgecarriesthe NationalRoadovertheOhio RiverbetweenWheelingIsland anddowntownWheeling.Itwasthefirstbridgeto spantheOhioRiverandthelargestsuspension bridgeintheworldfrom1849until1851.

SetontheOhioRiverinthe foothillsoftheAppalachian Mountains,Wheelingisa historicplace:It’sWest Virginia’sfirststatecapital, andtheplacewherethestate becameastate.

Next,weheadwesttovisit BigSur’sversionofthe GoldenGateBridge,the BixbyBridge.It’soneofthe mostphotographedbridgesin Californiaduetoitsaesthetic design,“gracefularchitectureandmagnificent setting”.Itisareinforcedconcreteopen-spandrel archbridge.Thebridgeis120milessouthofSan Francisco.

Chicago’sRiverSystemisasimpressiveasits skyscrapers.Nexttimeyoucrosstheriveralong MichiganAvenue,StateStreet,WellsStreetor WabashAvenue,lookdown.You’rewalkingonone offivedifferenttypesofmovablebridgesfoundin Chicago.There’satotalof37movablebridges withinthecitylimits.

GavinsPointDamisa1.9milelongembankment rolled-earthandchalk-filldamwhichspansthe MissouriRiverandimpoundsLewisandClarkLake. ThedamjoinsCedarCounty,NebraskawithYankton County,SouthDakota.

Preview

ByStephenKirchner,Editor&Publisher

GavinsPointDamcreatesLewisandClarkLake,a popularregionaltouristdestinationforwater-based recreationalopportunitiesincludingboatingand fishing,alongwithcamping,hiking,hunting,bird watching,swimming,bikingandandphotography.

Whenitopenedin1964,theVerrazano-Narrows BridgeinNewYorkwastheworld’slongest suspensionspan.Fiftyyearslateritisstillthelongest suspensionbridgeintheUnitedStates.

LocatedatthemouthofupperNewYorkBay,the bridgenotonlyconnectsBrooklynwithStaten Island,butisalsoamajor linkintheinterstate highwaysystem,providing theshortestroutebetween theMiddleAtlanticstates andLongIsland.

Thedouble-deckbridge carries13lanesofInterstate 278,withsevenlanesonthe upperlevelandsixonthe lowerlevel.

Inhiscolumn,BillGraves admitsheneverknewabout theColoradoRiver.TheoneinTexas,thatis.And you’llbeforgivenifyoudidn’tknowaboutiteither. TheTexasColoradoRiverrisesinthenorthwestern partofthestate,neartheNewMexicoline,andflows 894milestotheGulfofMexico.TheTexas Coloradoisrestrainedwithaseriesofsixdams.With thecompletionofthefirstonein1939,thetwo-mile longBuchananDam,thishillcountryareaofcentral Texastookonneweconomiclife.

50,000yearsagoanironasteroidsmashedintoNorth Americaandleftagapingholeinwhatistoday northernArizona.In What’sHappening,wediscover MeteorCraterisafamoustouristattractionwitha museumfeaturingdisplaysaboutthehistoryofthe craterandasteroidimpactscience.

WehopeyouenjoythisissueofByways.

NewYorkersknow—theidealgetawayfromthe hustle‘nbustleofNYCisonly90minutesnorth oftheBigAppleinthebeautifulHudsonValley— specifically,DutchessCounty.Thedriveispicturesqueor onecanjusthoponAmtrakfromNYPenn’snew MoynihanTrainHallortakeMetro-NorthfromGrand CentralTerminal.Bothlinesofferarelaxingscenicride alongtheHudsonRivertothestunningcountrysideofthe HudsonValley.TravelTip:Trainlinesstopin Poughkeepsiesoreserveyourrentalcarforpickupatthe PoughkeepsieTrainStationtoreallyexploretheregion.

ThenaturalbeautyoftheHudsonValleyisunmatched, andtherearecountlesswaystoexploreDutchess County’sgreatoutdoors.DiscoverthecavesatDover StoneChurch,kayakalongtheHudsonRiver,hikethe AppalachianTrailorclimbthe315footfiretowerat FerncliffForest.Fancyagentlestroll?Wanderthrough themeditative“cup”gardensatInnisfreeGarden,known asoneofthebestgardensintheworld.

TheWalkwayOvertheHudsonisamust-visit.The world’slongestelevatedpedestrianbridgeisaNYS historicparkacrosstheHudsonRiverwithunbelievable viewsat212feetabovewater.Enjoyfreeparkingandthe

TheHudsonRiverValleyisdesignatedasaNational HeritageArea.Significantattractionspresentthehistory oftheWappingerIndians,theAmericanRevolution,The GildedAge,andtheeraofaniconicpresident.TheGreat Estatesaremultiplehistorichomesofferingguidedtours

oftheDutchColonialhomeofMountGuliantothe GildedAgemansionsofStaatsburghStateHistoricSite andVanderbiltMansionNationalHistoricSite.

visitorcentersoneithersideoftheriveroraccessviathe glassenclosedelevatoralongthewaterfrontoftheeast side.Walkorrentabikeforthe1.28milesacrossand discoverover20milesofuninterruptedrailtrail connections.

Fortheultimatevista,headtoOldRhinebeckAerodrome andenjoyabird’s-eyeviewwhenyouflyinanopen-air biplaneride.Theweekendairshowsrunmid-Junethrough mid-October,featuringplanesoftheGoldenAgeof AviationandtheoldestflyingplaneinAmerica,aswellas French,BritishandGermanplanesfromWWI.There’s alsoanimpressivemuseumcollectionofvintageplanes, carsandmotorcycles.TravelTip:Weatherpermittingyou canscheduleabiplaneanydayoftheweekduringthe season.

FarmtotablediningisawayoflifeintheHudsonValley whichisoneoftherichestagriculturalregionsofthe Northeast.Visitorscanexplorefarmsfirsthandwithpickyour-ownexperiencesandanabundanceoffarmmarkets. TheDutchessCraftBeverageTrailwillguideyoutotaste theaward-winningwines,spirits,cideriesandbeersofthe region,eachwithasplendidcountrysidesetting.

HydeParkisthebirthplaceandfinalrestingplaceof PresidentFranklin.D.RooseveltandFirstLadyEleanor Roosevelt.Paralyzedatage39,FDRbecametheonly U.S.presidentelectedtofourterms(1932-1945). RooseveltguidedthecountryoutoftheGreatDepression andthroughWWIIandiscreditedforcreatingand namingTheUnitedNations.

TakeaguidedtourattheHomeofFranklinD.Roosevelt NationalHistoricSite,andalsolocatedontheestate,visit America’sfirstpresidentiallibraryforanimmersiveselfguidedmuseumexperienceatFDRPresidentialLibrary andMuseum.

VisitEleanor’shomeatVal-Killnearby,theonlyNational HistoricSitededicatedtoafirstlady.Eleanor’sactivism incivilandhumanrightssetthestageforherserviceat TheUnitedNationswheresheco-authoredTheUniversal DeclarationofHumanRights.TravelTip:Animportant temporaryexhibit, BlackAmericans, CivilRightsandthe Roosevelts,1932-1962, willopenatthemuseuminJune 2023andrunthroughtheendoftheyear.

You’llfindaworld-classculturalartssceneintheHudson Valley.DiaBeaconisover300,00squarefeetpresenting largescaleworksofartbyworld-renownedartistsfrom the1960stothepresent.TheFisherCenterhoststhe annualSummerScape(July-August)aninternational festivalofmusic,opera,cabaret,theater,filmanddance onthestunningcampusatBardCollege.

TheultimateTravelTip:ExploretheDutchessTourism TrailFinderforcuratedguidancetoiconicsitesand hiddengemsat Dutchesstourism.com/finder.

AtthehelmofthefoodsceneisTheCulinaryInstituteof America,knownasthe“CIA”.Theworld’spremier culinarycollegetrainsstudentsfromaroundtheworldto craftthefutureoftheculinaryartsintheirfourstudentstaffedrestaurants,includingBocuse,AmericanBounty andCaterinadeMedici.TravelTip:Advancereservations highlyrecommended.

SetontheOhioRiverinthefoothillsofthe AppalachianMountains,Wheelingisahistoric place:It’sWestVirginia’sfirststatecapital,the placewherethestatebecameastate,hometobattle sitesandburialmounds...thelistislengthy.

Residentstakeprideinthathistory,restoringand repurposingbuildingsandmaintainingasenseof traditionevenastheylooktothefuture.Oncean industrialepicenter,Wheelingisresponsiblefor givingtheUSAmanyofitsmostusefulproducts, fromcutnailstooveralls.Explorethathistoryat

offersatraditionalteaservice.AtGraveCreek Mound,seeoneofthelargestAdenaburialmounds. Whilethere,stepinsidetheDelfNoronaMuseum andlearnaboutthehistorianwhocreatedit.

ThehistoricWheelingSuspensionBridgecarriesthe NationalRoadovertheOhioRiverbetween WheelingIslandanddowntownWheeling,West Virginia.ItwasthefirstbridgetospantheOhio Riverandthelargestsuspensionbridgeintheworld from1849until1851.

History

AcharterwasgrantedtotheWheeling&Belmont BridgeCompanytoconstructabridgeoverthemain channeloftheOhioRivertoextendtheNational Road(alsoknownastheCumberlandPikebecauseit beganinCumberland,Maryland)acrosstheOhio River.ItwouldextendtheNationalRoadintoOhio, whichhadreachedWheelingonAugust1,1818. However,ferriesthentookpassengersandfreightto

theotheroftherivertocontinueontheNational Road.

Atthetime,bothWheelingandPittsburghcompeted tobecomecommercialhubs,connectingtheEastern SeaboardwiththeMidwestacrossthecentral AppalachianMountains.In1820,Congress authorizedtheNationalRoad’sextensiontoSt. Louis,Missouri.

VirginiaandOhiojointlyissuedthenewWheeling bridgecharter.CharlesEllettJr.andJohnA. Roeblingwereinvitedtosubmitdesignsand estimatesforasuspensionbridgeoverthemain channeloftheOhioRiver.Bothweretheforemost authorityonbridgesofthatcrossingtype.

Ellettwasawardeda$120,000contracttobuildthe bridgein1847,beatingoutRoebling’sbidfora shorterdouble-spancrossingthatwasestimatedto cost$130,000.

TheWheelingSuspensionBridgewascompletedin November1849atthecostof$250,000.Itfeatureda simpletimberdeckthatrestedontransversetimber floorbeams,whichweresupportedattheirendsby

wroughtironsuspendershungfrommaincables.It wasthefirstmajorsuspensionbridgeintheUnited StatesandallowedfortheNationalRoadtobe connectedbyafixedcrossing.

TheWheelingBridgelinkedtheeasternandwestern sectionoftheNationalRoad,andbecameespecially strategicallyimportantduringtheAmericanCivil War.LitigationintheUnitedStatesSupremeCourt

concerningitsobstructionofthenewhigh steamboatsmokestackseventuallyclearedthe wayforotherbridges,especiallyneededby expandingrailroads.Becausethisbridgewas designedduringthehorse-and-buggyera,2tonweightlimitsandvehicleseparation requirementsappliedinlateryearsuntilitwas closedtoautomobiletrafficinSeptember 2019.

Thesuspensionbridgewassubjectedto torsionalandverticalmovementsthatcaused theflooringtobetossedtotheheightofthe towersandresultedinthecollapseofthe crossingonMay17,1854.

Apermanentsuspensionbridge,withthesame designastheoriginal,openedin1859.

WilliamHildenbrandmodifiedthespanbased upondesignsbyWashingtonA.Roeblingin 1871-72byaddingauxiliarystaycablesand replacingthedecktoaddstrengthand resistanceagainststrongwinds.Other improvementsdesignedbyHildenbrandwere madein1886,andotherrepairswerecarried outin1922and1930.

AtthetimeoftheWheelingSuspension Bridge’sconstruction,ahorseandbuggywere theheaviestliveloadthatwouldbeexpected. A4,000-poundweightlimitwaslaterplaced uponthebridge,whichmadeitunsuitablefor trucks,buses,orotherheavyvehicles.

Themainspanis1,010feetfromtowerto tower.TheeasttowerrestsontheWheeling shore,whilethewesttowerisonWheeling Island.Theeasttoweris153.5feetabovethe low-waterleveloftheriver,or82feetfrom thebaseofthemasonry.Thewesttoweris 132.75feetabovelowwater,with69feetof masonry.

ThecrossingwashonoredasaNational HistoricCivilEngineeringLandmarkin1969 andwaslistedasaNationalHistoric Landmark,thehighesthonorthatcouldbe bestowedonanon-federalsiteorstructure,in 1975.ItwasthenlistedontheNational RegisterofHistoricPlacesin1980.

https://wheelingcvb.com t

WelcometoBigSur’sversionoftheGolden Gate,amust-seeroadtripspotfor manyandprobablythemostInstagrammed featurealongtheHighway1coastline.

Completedin1932forjustover$200,000,the concretespan,oneofthehighestbridgesofitskind intheworld,soars260feetabovethebottomofa steepcanyoncarvedbyBixbyCreek.

TheBixbyBridgeisoneofthemostphotographed bridgesinCaliforniaduetoitsaestheticdesign, “gracefularchitectureandmagnificentsetting”.Itisa reinforcedconcreteopen-spandrelarchbridge.The bridgeis120milessouthofSanFrancisco.

Thebridgeisapproximately18milessouthof MontereyandCarmel-by-the-Sea.Enjoythe incredibleviewsofBigSur’srockycoastline.The iconiccementarchhasalsobeenfeaturedon postcards,musicvideosandanarrayofTVspots includingcarcommercialsandthehitHBOseries BigLittleLies

EpicphotoopsoftheBixbyBridgeandtheBigSur coastlineawait!HurricanePoint,justsouthofthe bridge,offersclearviewstothenorth,southand west.Becauseofthiswide-openarea,itisvery windy,hencethename“HurricanePoint”.

History

Over300,000boardfeetofDouglasfirtimber,used tobuilda250-foothighfalseworktosupportthearch duringconstruction,wastransportedfromthe railroadterminalinMontereyoverthenarrow,onewayroadtothebridgesite.Itwasdifficulttoraise, becauseitwasconstantlyexposedtohighwinds. Someofthefalseworktimberswere10by10inches. Ittooktwomonthstoconstructthefalseworkalone. Whenhighwavesthreatenedthefalsework foundation,constructionwashaltedforashorttime untilwinterstormsabated.

ThebridgewascompletedonOctober15,1932, althoughthehighwaywasnotfinishedforanother

fiveyears.Atitscompletion,thebridgecost $199,861and,at360feet,wasthelongestconcrete archspanontheCaliforniaStateHighwaySystem. Thebridgewasnecessarytocompletethetwo-lane roadwhichopenedin1937after18yearsof construction.

Thebridgewasretrofittedbeginningin1996aspart oftheCaltransPhaseIIseismicretrofitprogram.In theirdetailedevaluationofthebridge’sseismic vulnerabilities,theywerechallengedtofinda solutionthatmetseveraldifficultissues,including severeloadfactors,extremelylimitedphysical access,maintainingtheappearanceoftheexisting historicalstructure,andarequirementbytheStateof

Californiathatatleastonelaneofthebridgeremain openatalltimes.

ScenicBeauty

Thebridgecontributestothescenicattractionof drivingHighway1.The72-milesectionofthe highwayfromCambriatoCarmelHighlandswasthe firstinthestatetobedesignatedasaScenicHighway in1965.In1966FirstLadyLadyBirdJohnsonled theofficialscenicroaddesignationceremonyat BixbyCreekBridge.

Thebridgewasalreadypopularbeforethe introductionofsmartphonesandsocialmedia,and visitorstotheBixbyCreekBridgeandotherBigSur attractionshavedramaticallyincreasedsincethen. Duetothelargenumberofvisitors,congestionand slowtrafficbetweenCarmelandthebridgeis frequentlythenormduringpopularholidayand vacationperiods.

https://www.bigsurcalifornia.org

Chicagoisnotjusthometomanyoftheworld’s earliestskyscrapers,itisalsoacityofbridges. NexttimeyoucrosstheriveralongMichiganAvenue, StateStreet,WellsStreetorWabashAvenue,look down.You’rewalkingononeoffivedifferenttypesof movablebridgesfoundinChicago.There’satotalof 37movablebridgeswithinthecitylimits.

TheChicagoRiverisasystemofriversandcanals withacombinedlengthof156milesthatrunsthrough thecityofChicago,includingitscenter,theChicago Loop.Thoughnotespeciallylong,theriverisnotable becauseitisoneofthereasonsforChicago’s geographicimportance:therelatedChicagoPortageis alinkbetweentheGreatLakesandtheMississippi RiverBasin,andultimatelytheGulfofMexico.

ChicagoRiverMovableBridges

Thebridgesacrossthedowntownstretchofthe ChicagoRiver,betweenMichiganAvenueand OrleansStreet,aresomeofthemosticonic.It’swhat

comestomindwhenyouthinkofChicagobridges. Mostofthesebridgesaremorethan90yearsold, exceptfortheDearbornStreetbridgewhichwas constructedin1962.

Thefirsttrunnionbasculebridgeinthecountry openedin1902overthenorthbranchoftheChicago RiveratCortlandStreet.TranslatedfromFrench, “trunnion”means“pivotpoint”and“bascule”means “seesaw”.Alsoknownasthe“ChicagoStyle”,the bridge’sleavesaresuspendedonaxles(trunnions), withmassiveconcretecounterweightslocatedbelow thebridge.

What’sespeciallynoteworthyarethebridge-tender towersateachendwhichhavedesignsthat incorporateArtDeco,Beaux-ArtsandModernism styles.

Oneofthemostwell-knownistheDuSableBridge (formerlytheMichiganAvenueBridge).Itisa basculebridgethatcarriesMichiganAvenueacross themainstemoftheChicagoRiverindowntown

Chicago.Thebridgewasproposed intheearly20thcenturyaspartofa plantolinkChicago’sSouthSide andNorthSideparkswithagrand boulevard.Constructionofthe bridgestartedin1918,itopenedto trafficin1920,anddecorativework wascompletedin1928.

Thebridgeprovidespassagefor vehiclesandpedestriansontwo levels.Anexampleofafixed trunnionbasculebridge(whichis alsoknownasa“Chicagostyle basculebridge”),itcanberaisedto allowtallshipsandboatstopass underneath.Thebridgeisincluded intheMichigan-WackerHistoric Districtandhasbeendesignatedasa ChicagoLandmark.

TheOuterDriveBridgewasoneofthemost importantPublicWorksAdministrationprojectsin Chicago–spanningoverthemouthoftheChicago RiveritisthelinkbetweentheNorthSideandSouth Side.Thehulking,double-deckerbasculebridgewas

finallycompletedin1937.Somesayitwasthelongest andwidestbasculebridgeintheworld.

TheKinzieStreetBridgeisasingle-leafbascule bridgebuiltin1909thatspanstheChicagoRiver.

TheVanBurenStreetBridgeisabasculebridgethat spanstheriver.Itisthesixthbridgeatthislocation andcarryingthisname,andwascompletedin1956.It replacedan1895RollingLift-typebasculebridge.

TheBataan-CorregidorMemorialBridge(akathe StateStreetBridge),isadouble-leafbasculespan openedforrivertraffic.

TheLaSalleStreetBridge(officiallytheMarshall SulowayBridge)isasingle-deckdouble-leaftrunnion basculebridgespanningthemainstemoftheChicago River.ItconnectstheNearNorthSidewiththeLoop area.Itwasconstructedin1928atacostof $2,500,000.Thebridgewaspartofaschemetowiden LaSalleStreetandimproveaccessfromtheLoopto thenorthsideoftheriver.Thedesignofthebridge, alongwiththosefornewbridgesatMadisonStreet, FranklinStreet,andClarkStreet,wasapprovedin 1916.

TravelingtheHighways&Byways withBillGraves

Confessionishealthy, goodforthesoul(but sometimeshardon thereputation),theysay. Still,it’stoughtoadmitthat Ineverknewaboutthe otherColoradoRiver.

ThebigoneintheWest,of course,theonethatmakes GrandCanyon,Iknow well.

Theotheroneisherein Texas.Itrisesinthe northwesternpartofthestate,neartheNewMexico line,andflows894milestotheGulfofMexico.

LakeBuchanan,TexasHillCountry

LiketheColoradooftheWestthatflows1450miles inoraroundfivestates,theTexasColoradoisalso restrainedwithaseriesofsixdams.Operatedbythe LowerColoradoRiverAuthority,thedamsproduce electricpower,providewaterstorageandseekto achieveabalancebetweenfloodsanddroughts.

Withthecompletionofthefirstonein1939,thetwomilelongBuchananDam,thishillcountryofcentral Texastookonneweconomiclife.Arockymound heretheyoncecalled“PovertyHill”,forexample,is nowcalled“ParadiseMountain”.

Witheverydamcomesalake.Andwitheverylake comebirds,animalsandthelikesofus.

Interestingly,thefocushereisnotonus,atleastina commercial,exploitiveway.It’sontheenvironment –topography,natureandwildlife.

It’salsoontheseasonsandthestrikingchangesthat theybringtothehillcountry.Inthespring wildflowersarediggingtheirwayupthroughtheir ancestors.Theybloom,notjusthereandthere,but inprofusioneverywhere.TheylinetheroadsIdrove comingherefromAustin–bluebonnetsand primrose,eventhepricklypearcactusiscrowned withayellowflower.

Unprocessednatureisthedrawhere,notacultivated fabricationofit.Althoughthelakesareman-made, theirmakerssteppedback,theirworkdone,andlet naturetakeover.Bustlingresortsandindiscriminate commercialismarenotonthislake;youcan’teven rentahouseboat.

ThelargestandnorthernmostoftheHighlandLakes, astheycallthem,isLakeBuchanan.It’s31miles

longwith124milesofshoreline,bothwoodedand rocky.Byrocky,Imeanhugegranitebouldersand highcliffs,manywithmaturegreenerysprouting fromcrevasses.

IamataplacecalledCanyonofEaglesthatis actuallya940-acrewildernesspreserve.Deer wandertheedgeofthecampground,asdowild turkeyandarmadillo.Ihadneverseenanarmadillo. They’reslowandclumsy,anddon’tmindmakinga rumpusastheywaddlethroughthebrush.Itwas duskwhenIsawmyfirstone;itwaslikewatchinga tiptoeingarmyhelmet.Texanscallthem“diggers”, becausetheyscratchuplarvaeandworms.Some callthem“Texasturkeys”andeveneatthem.But I’llpassonthatidea.

Armadillosdon’tlooktomeliketheyhavechanged muchsincetheirCenozoicancestors.Texaslawnow protectsthemfromcommercialuse.Soyouarenot likelytoseeahandbagoralampmadefromthehard shellofthearmadillo.Theyfrequenthighwaysat

night,I’mtold,lookingforbugspoppedbycars. Duringwarmsummernights,manygetpressedlike fossilsintothesoftasphalt.

CanyonoftheEaglesisbestdescribedasahands-on natureparkandlearningcenterwherewildlifethrives initsnormalsurroundings,butinapeople-friendly way.Thoseintowaterrecreationdoitmostlyin kayaksandcanoes.Powersboatsarearound,butthis isnotalakeofwaterskiersandnoisyboattraffic.

Milesofpathshavenameslike“ButterflyTrail”and “BeebrushLoop”.Iwanderedthegravelwalkways ofthelodgearea.Cabinsareavailableforthosewho mustunpackasuitcasetogetatoothbrushorchange clothes.Inoticedthatnoneofthecabinshave televisions.Buttheyallhavewideporcheswith wicker,rockingchairs,whichsaysitall.

IdroveintonearbyMarbleFalls,asmall,tidytown witha4-blockmainstreet.It’ssowide,carspark rightdownthemiddleofit.

Thenewlibraryisatoneendofitandtheoldlibrary attheother.Whentheyopenedthenewlibraryin 1996–or’97,itdoesn’treallymatter–theymoved booksbyhand:thousandsofbooksusingroughly 600hands.

Theysetupalineof adultsandkids,likea bucketbrigade,that ranthelengthof MainStreet.Atone end,attheoldlibrary, abookwastaken fromtheshelfand waspassedhand-tohand,outthedoor anddownthestreet. Minuteslaterit arrivedatthenew libraryandwas placedonthenew shelf,linedupexactly asitwasattheold library.

LaterIvisitednearby Burnet,population 4,735.Iwasstraight awaylecturedthat Burnetisnot pronouncedaround herelikeitlooks. “It’sBurnit,dirnit,learnit”,wasdrilledintome whenIsaidthename“wrong”.Ohwell,it’stheir town.

TomandPeggyHansenrunastorejustoffthetown squarecalled“HillCountryChristmas”.Iwentinto seehowholidayshoppingwasgoing.Afteroffering mesomefreshstrawberriesthatsomeonehadjust broughtin,TomsaidthatpeoplebuyChristmas decorationsyeararound.“Ifyouhavesomething trulydifferent,peoplewantit.”

That’sthewayIfeelaboutthispieceofTexasand whypeoplelikeuscomehere–it’strulydifferent.

Abouttheauthor: Afterseeingmuchoftheworld asacareernavalofficer,BillGravesdecided,afterhe retired,totakeacloserlookattheUnitedStates.He hasbeenroamingthecountryfor20years,muchofit inamotorhomewithhisdogRusty.Helivesin RanchoPalosVerdes,Californiaandistheauthorof OntheBackRoads,DiscoveringSmallTownsof America.

Hecanbereachedat Roadscribe@aol.com

GavinsPointDamisa1.9milelong embankmentrolled-earthandchalk-filldam whichspanstheMissouriRiverandimpounds LewisandClarkLake.ThedamjoinsCedarCounty, NebraskawithYanktonCounty,SouthDakota,a distanceof811.1rivermilesupstreamofSt.Louis, Missouri,wheretheriverjoinstheMississippiRiver.

Thedamandhydroelectricpowerplantwere constructedastheGavinsPointProjectfrom1952to 1957bytheUnitedStatesArmyCorpsofEngineers aspartofthePick-SloanPlan.Thedamislocated approximately4mileswestorupstreamofYankton, SouthDakota.

GavinsPointDambeganoperatingin1955asakey partofasystemofsixlargefederaldamand reservoirprojectsthatreducefloodrisksforthe populationsandurbanandagriculturalproperties downstreamalongthemainstreamMissouriRiver.

Thesmallestandfurthestdownstreamofthe mainstreamprojects,GavinsPointDamstretches acrosstheupperMissouriRiverinthesoutheastern cornerofSouthDakotaandnortheasternNebraska. ThedamisnamedafterGavinsPoint,abluffalong thenorthernbankoftheMissouriRivernamedforan earlysettler,nowwithinthewesternendofLewis& ClarkRecreationArea,whichwastobetheoriginal locationofconstructionofthedam.Thelocationwas movedandconstructionbeganfurtherdownstream alongCalumetBluffbecausethislocationoffereda shorterspandistanceandlessfillmaterialneededfor damconstruction,althoughtheprojectkeptthe originalname.

Thedamoperationsworkinconjunctionwiththe otherPick-SloanProgramDamstoassistwith conservation,control,anduseofwaterresourcesin theMissouriRiverBasin.Theintendedbeneficial

usesofthesewaterresourcesincludefloodcontrol, aidstonavigation,irrigation,supplementalwater supply,powergeneration,municipalandindustrial watersupplies,stream-pollutionabatement,sediment control,preservationandenhancementoffishand wildlife,andcreationofrecreationopportunities.

LewisandClarkLake

GavinsPointDamcreatesLewisandClarkLake,a popularregionaltouristdestinationforwater-based recreationalopportunitiesincludingboatingand fishing,alongwithcamping,hiking,hunting,bird watching,swimming,bikingandandphotography. TheseactivitiesaremanagedbytheStateofSouth Dakota,StateofNebraska,andtheU.S.ArmyCorps ofEngineers.

Thelakeisapproximately25milesinlengthwith over90milesofshorelineandamaximumwater depthof45feet.

MorethantwomillionvisitorsvisitLewisandClark Lakeeachyear.Recreationareasaroundthelake offerboatramps,marinas,campgrounds,andday-use areas.Theupperstretchesofthelakearerenowned fortheirsuperiorwaterfowlviewingandhunting opportunitiesalongtheMissouriRiverflyway.

Locateddownstreamofthelakeisthe59-milereach oftheMissouriNationalRecreationalRiverwhich stretcheseastwardfromthedamtoPoncaStatePark.

Forthebikingandhikingenthusiasts,threetrailsare availableinthearea.Theyincludeapavedtrailthat

runsfromYanktontotheGavinsPointarea,amultiusetrailintheGavinsPointareaandtheCalumet Bluffhikingtraillocatednearthevisitorcenter. Wintertimeactivitiesincludeicefishing,crosscountryskiing,snowmobiling,andsledding.

TheLewisandClarkVisitorCenterislocatedjust southofGavinsPointDamatopCalumetBluffwith viewsofLewisandClarkLake,LakeYankton,and

theMissouriRiverbelowthedam.Thevisitorcenter isopendailyfromMemorialDayweekendthrough LaborDayweekendandopenweekdaysduringother timesoftheyear.

Thevisitorcenterinterpretsthehistoryofthe MissouriRiverBasin,includingNativeAmericans, pioneers,theLewisandClarkExpedition(which traveledthroughthearea),alongwithlocalwildlife andthehistoryofthe CorpsofEngineersin thearea.

Atheatershows educationalvideoson theLewisandClark Expedition,construction ofGavinsPointDam, andthenaturalhistory oftheMissouriRiver Region.Abookstore offerseducational books,videos,andother merchandiseforsale.

Clickformore information

Whenitopenedin1964,theVerrazanoNarrowsBridgewastheworld’slongest suspensionspan.Fiftyyearslateritisstill thelongestsuspensionbridgeintheUnitedStates.

TheendsofthebridgeareathistoricFortHamilton inBrooklynandFortWadsworthinStatenIsland, bothofwhichguardedNewYorkHarboratthe Narrowsforoveracentury.

ItspanstheNarrows,abodyofwaterlinkingthe relativelyenclosedUpperNewYorkBaywithLower NewYorkBayandtheAtlanticOcean.Itistheonly fixedcrossingoftheNarrows.Thedouble-deck bridgecarries13lanesofInterstate278,withseven lanesontheupperlevelandsixonthelowerlevel.

LocatedatthemouthofUpperNewYorkBay,the bridgenotonlyconnectsBrooklynwithStatenIsland butisalsoamajorlinkintheinterstatehighway system,providingtheshortestroutebetweenthe MiddleAtlanticstatesandLongIsland.

Priortothebridge’sopening,ferriesweretheonly meansoftravelbetweenStatenIsland,Manhattan, andBrooklyn.

ThebridgewasnamedafterGiovannidaVerrazano, who,in1524,wasthefirstEuropeanexplorertosail intoNewYorkHarbor.

History

StatenIslandwasoriginallyseparatedfromtheother boroughsinNewYork.Itwasonlyaccessibleby ferryfromManhattanor39thand69thStreetsin Brooklyn.

ThefirstplanforlinkingStatenIslandtotheother boroughswastobuildaStatenIslandtunnelthat wouldcontinuesubwayservicefromBrooklynto StatenIsland.Theplanwaseventuallyabandoned.

From1926,plansforabridgetocrosstheNarrows werebeingdiscussed.Theplanfacedresistancefrom BayRidgeresidentsastheconstructionofthebridge

wouldleadtotheirrelocation.

Overthenext33years,differentplanswere proposed,opposed,started,andputonhold;until finally,constructionstartedin1959.

ThebridgewasdesignedbyChiefEngineerOthmar AmmannwhodesignedfiveotherbridgesinNew YorkCity.

SurveyingworkfortheVerrazano-NarrowsBridge beganinJanuary1959.Theofficialconstructionon thebridgebeganonAugust14,1959,witha groundbreakingceremonyontheStatenIsland anchorage.

Thefirstpieceofthetowers,a300-footpieceofthe towerontheStatenIslandside,wasliftedintoplace inOctober1961,andthistowerwastoppedoutby September1962.TheBrooklyntowerstarted constructioninApril1962.Whenthetowerswere fullyerected,workersbegantheprocessofspinning thebridge’scables.

TheAmericanBridgeCompanywasselectedto constructthecablesanddeck.Thecable-spinning processbeganinMarch1963,andtooksixmonths, since142,520milesofbridgecableshadtobestrung 104,432timesaroundthebridge.Themaincables werehungonbothsidesofthespan,andthen suspendercableswerehungfromthebridge’smain

cables.ThemaincableswerefullyspunbyAugust.

Inlate1963,buildersstartedreceivingthe rectangularpiecesthatwouldmakeuptheroadway

deck.Eachpiecemeasured28fthighby approximately115ftwideandlong.Thesepiecesof thedeckwerethenhungfromthesuspendercables. Byearly1964,thespanwasnearlyfinished,andall

thatremainedwastosecurethevariouspartsofthe bridge.

Completion

TheStatenIslandapproachtotheVerrazano-Narrows Bridgewasthefirstpartofthenewprojecttobe completed,anditopenedinJanuary1964.Theupper deckwasopenedonNovember21,1964,atacostof $320million(equivalentto$2.796billioninpresent dollars).

TheVerrazano-NarrowsBridgebecamesopopular amongmotoriststhatinMarch1969,itwasdecided toerectthelowerdeckatacostof$22million.

TheVerrazanoBridgeprojectcausedaround7000 residentsofBayRidgetolosetheirhomes.Butit alsonecessitatedtheconstructionoftheStatenIsland ExpresswayandtheBrooklyn-QueensExpressway. Thebridgeendedupbeingamajorcontributortothe developmentofStatenIsland.

TheTriboroughBridgeandTunnelAuthority(a MetropolitanTransportationAuthorityaffiliate)owns theVerrazzano-NarrowsBridge.

Theiconicsuspendedbridgehasbeenfeaturedin manymoviesandTVseries.Youmighthavespotted itin:TheUsualSuspects,SaturdayNightFever,A MostViolentYear,andTheAvengers.Othermovies

featuringthebridgeareTheGangThatCouldn’t ShootStraight,Maniac(1980),RunforYourLife1, TheSonnetProject,AroundtheWorldin80Days2, andMarathon(1984).

Onthebridge’sopeningday,about500carscrossed thebridgewithinthefirsthour(mostlyfromthe StatenIslandend).In24hours,about10,000crossed the13,700foot-spanofthebridge.

Today,thebridgeaveragesnearly200,000vehiclesin dailytraffic.

https://www.nycgovparks.org/highlights/ verrazano-bridge

Evenat50,000yearsold,thecraterisrelatively youngandremarkablywell-preservedcomparedto othercraters.Becauseofthis,scientistshavestudied thesiteextensivelytolearnaboutcrateringprocesses –howtheyworkonEarthandelsewhereinthesolar system–andaboutthemodernhazardsposedby asteroidimpacts.

TheMeteorCraterwasformedfromtheimpactofan iron-nickelasteroidabout150feetacross.Mostof theasteroidmeltedorvaporizedonimpact.The collisioninitiallyformedacraterover4,000feet acrossand700feetdeep.Subsequenterosionhas partiallyfilledthecrater,whichisnowonly550feet deep.Layersofexposedlimestoneandsandstoneare visiblejustbeneaththecraterrim,asarelargestone blocksexcavatedbytheimpact.

TodayMeteorCraterisafamoustouristattraction withamuseumfeaturingdisplaysaboutthehistory ofthecraterandasteroidimpactscience.Meteor Crater,AZisalsoawonderfullaboratoryforresearch byscientistswhocomefromallovertheworldto studythecrater.

Inordertopreservethesiteforfuturegenerations thereisnohikingofthecraterrimorinterior allowed.However,thereisaguidedhikeoffered whenweatherpermitsthatisinformativeand enjoyable.

DiscoveryCenterObservationDeck

FourLookoutPointsfeaturespectacularviewsofthe MeteorCraterandthebreathtakingdesertlandscape. Youcanenjoytheseoutdoorareasortakeinan incredibleviewofthecraterfrominsidetheairconditionedcomfortoftheDiscoveryCenter.

ObservationDeck

Thefirstobservationareaisimmediatelybehindthe DiscoveryCenter.Therearebenchessoyoucanrest whiletakinginallthedetailsofthecrater.Thereare twotelescopeshereavailableforsightseeingallthe details.

LearnaboutthehistoryandImpactSciencebehind thisincrediblenaturallandmark.Listenandlearn whileTheMeteorCraterTourGuidesretellthe

50,000year-oldstories andgeologicimpact createdfromthisrare event.

You’llseehowthesouth craterwallisnoticeably uplifted,showinghow sandstoneandlimestone beds,whichwereonce deeplyburied,arenow morethan250feetabove theirpre-impactlevels andhigherthananywhere elseatthecrater.

Arizona’sdryclimatehas helpedpreservethecrater, keepingitalmost unchangedsinceits formation.Youcanget acquaintedwiththe differentkindsofcreaturesandflorathatsurround theimpactsiteandgetupcloseandpersonaltothis naturalwonderwhilehikingontheedgeoftherim.

Youwillalsolearnaboutimpactprocessesthat playedaprominentroleinthedevelopmentofour planets,satellites,asteroids,andcomets.The geologicandplanetaryrecordsareclear,collisions ranginginsizefrommicroscopictogiganticevents haveoccurredsincethebeginningofthesolarsystem andthisisyourchancetowalkontherimofthebestpreservedmeteoriteimpactsiteonearth,It’saneasy 30-40minutehikeandwillgiveyouagreat perspectiveonhowtheearthwasforeverchanged afterimpact.

Hands-OnAttheDiscoveryCenter

Visitorscanchoosetoexperienceandexplorethe craterinanair-conditionedindoorviewingarea,

outsideononeoftheobservationdecks,onselfguidedtrails,ortakeatouralongtherimwhereyou canlearnaboutallthedetailsfromoneofthe experiencedtourguides.

TheMeteorCraterismuchmorethanjustthe world’sbest-preservedmeteoriteimpactsite,asthe InteractiveDiscoveryCenterboastshands-on exhibitsanddisplayswhereyoucanimmerse yourselfintothescienceandhistoryofmeteorite impactsaroundtheglobe.

Enjoylearningabouttheincrediblehistoryofthe best-preservedmeteoriteimpactsite.The80-seat, widescreentheatergivesyouachancetorelaxin comfortandbeentertainedwhiletheshortmovie givesyouhistoryonthisspectacularevent.

Impact:TheMysteryofMeteorCrater coversthe historyandgeologyofthisimpactanddescribeshow itwaseventuallyproventobeameteoriteimpactsite throughtheworkofDanielM.Barringer.Thissame processisnowusedworldwidetoassistinproving otherimpactsites.

Youcanmakeyourtriptothecraterawildwest adventurewithavisittotheMeteorCraterMining Company.It’sthenewcoffeehouseandlounge whichoffersanassortmentoffresh-dailygrab‘ngo foods,tastytreats,andcustomflavorsofjava.And, ofcourse,youcanvisitthenearbygiftshop.

https://meteorcrater.com

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