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Breathtaking Views & Beyond Domestic Delights at Royal Gorge Bridge & Park Nestled in the heart of Colorado, the Royal Gorge Bridge & Park stands as a testament to nature’s grandeur and human engineering prowess. As North America’s highest suspension bridge, it offers an awe-inspiring experience for visitors seeking both adventure and natural beauty. The bridge spans the Royal Gorge 955 feet over the Arkansas River. Captivate your clients with the thrill of walking across this iconic bridge, which is an opportunity to capture stunning photos against the backdrop of the dramatic scenery. Beyond the bridge, the park boasts an array of attractions and activities to suit diverse interests. Adrenaline seekers can partake in the Royal Rush Skycoaster, a swing that swoops over the edge of the canyon, providing an exhilarating free-fall experience. Embark on the
Park’s zip line, gliding through the clear Colorado air while taking in the breathtaking vistas. For a more leisurely exploration, the Aerial Gondolas are a scenic journey across the gorge. The Park also features a charming and well-appointed Visitor Center. Here, tour operators can arrange for group activities, ensuring a seamless and enjoyable visit for their clients. Peruse dining options with spectacular canyon views, allowing guests to savor a delightful meal while surrounded by the stunning natural landscape. With its combination of thrilling adventures, breathtaking scenery, and educational experiences, Royal Gorge Bridge and Park stands as an ideal destination for tour operators looking to curate unforgettable trips for their clientele.
Plan your tour VisitCOS.com/groups-tours
VISIT INDIANA’S TOPGROUPDESTINATION Stepinto a slowerpacein theheart ofNorthern Indiana AmishCountryand experience trueHoosier Hospitality atDasDutchman Essenhaus,locatedinMiddlebury, Indiana. DasDutchman Essenhaus’beautiful campus,locatedin the third largest Amish destination in the nation, features the world-famous Restaurantwith family-style dining, Homestyle bakery,country shops,beautifully manicured walking paths,peacefulcarriage rides, and more. Top off your Well Crafted group experiencewith a relaxing night’s stay at the EssenhausInn complete with luggagehandling upon request, generously-sized guestrooms with stunningAmish-crafted furniture, in-room coffee,indoor pool, fitness center and a deluxe hot breakfast.
Experience all the sights,soundsandflavorsof Fall #INElkhartCo
Discover More One the west side of the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum, discover a futuristic bridge that takes you into America the Beautiful Park. Both ends of the bridge are accessible, featuring ramps and an elevator.
Groupslove the Fall, Food& Fun Tour in Amish Country where you tour Indiana’s largest apple orchard, seeflour ground at Indiana’s oldest operating grist mill and dine in a famousretro diner. Include the popular guided Fall Treats & Color BackroadsTour alongthe Heritage Trail.
Learn more at
VisitElkhartCounty.com/groupsorcall800.262.8161
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Byways Magazine
stephen.kirchner@gmail.com https://bywaysmagazine.com
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By Stephen Kirchner, Editor & Publisher elcome to Byways, where we uncover the allure of Great American Cities as captivating travel destinations.
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and contemporary cool in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, a dynamic Midwestern destination. Explore its stunning Lake Michigan shoreline and which caters to various interests, from history and beer to art and outdoor activities.
In this issue, we delve into the highlights of cities such as Salt Lake City, Colorado Springs, Birmingham, Omaha, Milwaukee, and Wilmington, North Carolina.
Journey into the intriguing past and current enchantments of Wilmington, North Carolina, a timeless destination with an unspoiled river and culinary delights that appeal to all tastes, from fine dining to friendly pubs.
Discover the fascinating blend of history and modernity in Salt Lake City, Utah's largest city. From its religious roots to a burgeoning cosmopolitan identity, Salt Lake City awaits intrepid travelers off the beaten tourist track. Embark on an adventure in Colorado Springs, Colorado, known as "Olympic City USA", where outdoor enthusiasts, history buffs, and art aficionados converge. Explore the gateway to awe-inspiring natural wonders and the famous Pikes Peak, offering breathtaking panoramic views. Immerse yourself in the rich history and diverse culture of Birmingham, Alabama, "The Magic City". Birmingham's significant role in the Civil Rights Movement and its industrial heritage make it a compelling destination for modern travelers. Uncover the hidden gem of the Midwest in Omaha, Nebraska, where history, entertainment, and Midwestern charm intersect. Delve into its pivotal role in U.S. development, diverse attractions, renowned zoo and aquarium, and tantalizing culinary scene. Experience the seamless blend of industrial heritage Byways 4
We invite you to explore these captivating cities and immerse yourself in the diverse experiences they offer. Come along as we embark on our journey through Great American Cities. In his column, Bill Graves takes us to Interstate 80 in Nebraska. It's a road synonymous with endless cornfields, unwavering horizons, and a certain hypnotic, meditative quality. But for those who resist the urge to speed through, Nebraska's I-80 offers a treasure trove of surprises just beneath the surface of its golden plains. In What’s Happening, we learn that Washington D.C.'s National Mall stands out as an experience far exceeding sightseeing snapshots and souvenir magnets. This 2-mile stretch of green isn't simply a museum of marble and granite; it's a living testament to American ideals, echoing with the whispers of history and the pulse of contemporary change. We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.
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he United States is home to a diverse array of cities, each offering its own unique blend of culture, history, and attractions. From the bustling streets of New York City to the laid-back charm of San Francisco, American cities hold a special appeal for travelers from around the world. There are several key reasons why American cities continue to be popular travel destinations.
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Cultural Diversity •American cities are melting pots of cultures, offering a wide range of culinary experiences, artistic expressions, and celebrations of diversity. Cities like New York, Los Angeles, and Miami are celebrated for their multicultural communities, providing visitors with the opportunity to explore different customs and traditions within a single city.
Iconic Landmarks •Many American cities boast iconic landmarks that are instantly recognizable worldwide. From the Statue of Liberty in New York City to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, these landmarks serve as magnets for tourists seeking to witness these symbols of American history and ingenuity up close.
Entertainment and Nightlife •American cities are renowned for their vibrant entertainment and nightlife scenes. From Broadway shows in New York City to live music in Nashville, there is no shortage of options for those seeking a memorable night out. Additionally, cities like Las Vegas and New Orleans are famous for their diverse nightlife offerings, catering to a wide range of tastes.
Historical and Architectural Marvels •The rich history of the United States is reflected in the architectural marvels and historical sites found in its cities. From the colonial charm of Boston to the modern skyscrapers of Chicago, American cities offer a fascinating tapestry of architectural styles and historical landmarks that appeal to history enthusiasts and architecture aficionados.
Culinary Delights •American cities are culinary meccas, with each city offering its own distinct flavors and regional specialties. Whether it's the deep-dish pizza of Byways 6
Chicago, the seafood of Seattle, or the soul food of New Orleans, food lovers have so many choices when exploring the diverse culinary landscape of American cities.
Shopping and Fashion •For many travelers, American cities are synonymous with shopping and fashion. Cities like New York and Los Angeles are global hubs for fashion and retail, offering everything from luxury boutiques to eclectic flea markets, ensuring that visitors can indulge in retail therapy to their heart's content.
Events and Festivals •American cities host a myriad of events and festivals throughout the year, ranging from music and film festivals to cultural celebrations and parades. Whether it's Mardi Gras in New Orleans, the Sundance Film Festival in Park City, or the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City, there is always something exciting happening in American cities. The allure of American cities as popular travel destinations lies in their cultural diversity, iconic landmarks, entertainment and nightlife, historical and architectural marvels, culinary delights, shopping and fashion, as well as the variety of events and festivals they host. These factors collectively contribute to the enduring appeal of American cities and continue to draw travelers from all corners of the globe, eager to experience the unique offerings of each city.
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Volume 41, Issue No. 1 2024 On the Cover. The Salt Lake City skyline with the Wasatch Mountain Range in the background. To learn more about Salt Lake City’s hidden treasures turn to page 12. Photo courtesy Garrett and CC 2.0.
Features Salt Lake City's Hidden Treasures ..................................................................................................... 12 Colorado Springs, Gateway to the Rockies ......................................................................................... 18 Birmingham, Vibrant, Historic Destination .......................................................................................... 24 Omaha’s Heartland Hospitality ........................................................................................................... 34 Milwaukee’s Midwestern Charm .......................................................................................................... 40 Wilmington, NC, Riverside City for All Seasons .................................................................................. 46
Departments Byways Instant Connect ........................................................................................................................ 3 Byways Preview .................................................................................................................................... 4 Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves ............................................................................. 30 Advertiser/Sponsored Content Index .................................................................................................. 58
What’s Happening Beyond Monuments: Uncovering the Soul of America at the National Mall ....................................... 52
Coming in Future Issues Future issues of Byways will feature Oceans, Rivers & Lakes, Great American Roads and more. . .
Up Next: Mountains & Valleys The Warner Mountains and Surprise Valley, often overshadowed by their more famous California counterparts, are located in northeastern California near the Nevada border. Photo courtesy Surprise Valley Chamber.
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estled between Utah's towering Wasatch Range and the shimmering blue waters of the Great Salt Lake lies Salt Lake City, the capital and largest metro area in the Beehive State.
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While its world-famous ski resorts and nearby National Parks draw outdoor adventurers from across the globe, the city itself remains an underrated gem awaiting intrepid travelers off the beaten tourist track. Founded in 1847 by Brigham Young and his band of Mormon pioneers fleeing persecution, Salt Lake City remains shaped by its religious roots. The Mormon Temple's towering granite walls and the soaring notes Byways 14
from the Tabernacle Choir echo from Temple Square, headquarters of the Latter-Day Saints church and an intriguing stop to learn about early LDS settlement. Nearby, time travel back to 1847 by wandering This Is The Place Heritage Park, a "living history" museum populated by costumed interpreters recreating a meticulously detailed pioneer village. Yet Salt Lake City has also evolved into a cosmopolitan destination in its own right, graced by the youthful energy of two major universities and an exploding foodie scene celebrated by glossy culinary magazines. World-class museums and performing arts venues like the show-stopping Capitol Theatre
place it firmly on the U.S. cultural map. Salt Lake City strikes a beguiling balance between old and new, mythic frontiers past and trendsetting present.
Adventure Calls from Spectacular Surrounds Salt Lake City overflows with natural beauty courtesy of its spectacular mountain backyard. Just 20 minutes drive from downtown unfolds the breathtaking vistas of Big Cottonwood Canyon, its granite walls draped by over 7,000 vertical feet of forests and alpine meadows. Hiking trails ribbon to shimmering lakes and viewpoints like Lake Blanche lookout, its turquoise waters framed by jagged peaks so archetypically Utah. During winter, steep challenging runs like Grizzly Gulch and Wolverine entice intrepid skiers and snowboarders to Snowbird Resort. Or take the 25 minute drive west to Antelope Island State Park, where bison and antelope roam grasslands stretching to the Great Salt Lake's horizon. Hike the steep mile up Buffalo Point to survey the hypnotic lake waters, turned pink by saline-loving algae, lapping against the Oquirrh Mountains beyond.
These are just some of the natural grandeur within an hour from Salt Lake City's urban beats.
Culinary Treasures from Alpine Slopes to Farmland After burning energy exploring Salt Lake City's magnificent outdoor offerings, visitors can reward themselves with the city's world-class epicurean scene. Classic Mexican flavors dance at Red Iguana, dishing their legendary mole sauce and fresh fruit margaritas for over 30 years now. Locals revere family-run Ruth's Diner for hearty comfort food mastering American classics like chicken fried steak, while relative newcomer Oquirrh dazzles diners with its bold riffs on regional ingredients like smoked duck with roasted peaches. Those keen to taste homegrown Utah libations can now visit High West Distillery in Park City, founded in 2006 as the state's first legal whiskey operation since pre-Prohibition days. Their popular tours end with a tasting flight of award-winning small batch bourbons and ryes, using local grains and Rocky Mountain spring water. Responsible imbibers can even create their own unique blend to take home.
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With thrilling natural surrounds, historic and cultural riches, and booming food and drink scenes, Salt Lake City offers adventure without end for those intrepid souls who take time to stray off the tourist trail. Because beyond its majestic ski slopes and next door National Parks lies a beguiling city overflowing with secrets worth uncovering.
An Urban Wilderness Hideaway Nestled at the foot of the Wasatch Mountains lies the pristine Watershed Nature Preserve, an unexpected natural jewel hiding just minutes from downtown Salt Lake City. Spanning over 1,500 acres, this protected urban wilderness remains overlooked by many visitors racing by on their way to more famous attractions. Yet for those who pause to uncover its secrets, they will be richly rewarded. The preserve’s vast network of trails winds through forests and wetlands that serve as the primary water source for the city, making this an oasis fringed by urban infrastructure. One can easily spend hours spotting the myriad species of birds, mammals and wildlife sustained by these wooded foothills, from foxes and coyotes to hawks riding the thermal drafts. Yet the most unique aspect of these woodlands is the remnants of nineteenth century Mormon pioneer infrastructure allowing settlements to bloom in the arid region. Historic earthen dams and hand-dug irrigation ditches stand testament to early ingenious methods
for utilzing snowmelt to water crops and livestock. Various pioneer monuments are dotted amidst the forests and meadows, allowing visitors to reflect on the early settlers’ perseverance in an unforgiving land. For an unexpected escape into nature and history mere minutes from downtown, Salt Lake’s hidden gem beckons to be discovered. Lace up your hiking boots and uncover this urban wilderness oasis before the secret gets out. https://www.visitsaltlake Byways 17
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ocated at the base of the majestic Rocky Mountains, Colorado Springs, Colorado, is a city that offers a diverse array of experiences for travelers seeking adventure, relaxation, and rejuvenation.
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Known as "Olympic City USA" due to its status as the headquarters for the United States Olympic Committee, Colorado Springs is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, history buffs, and art aficionados alike. With its stunning natural beauty, rich cultural attractions, and vibrant downtown scene, this picturesque city is a must-visit destination.
Breathtaking Natural Wonders The primary draw for many visitors to Colorado Springs is its proximity to some of the country's most awe-inspiring natural wonders. The city serves as a gateway to the famous Pikes Peak, a 14,115-foot mountain that offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Travelers can reach the Byways 20
summit via the Pikes Peak Cog Railway, a thrilling train ride that climbs the mountain's steep slopes, or tackling the challenging Barr Trail. Garden of the Gods, a registered National Natural Landmark, is another must-see attraction. This public park features towering sandstone rock formations that rise dramatically from the ground, creating a stunning backdrop for hiking, rock climbing, and mountain biking. The park also offers guided nature walks, horseback riding, and educational programs at the visitor and nature center.
Outdoor Adventures Colorado Springs is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a wealth of activities to suit all interests and abilities. The city is home to numerous parks and open spaces, including North Cheyenne Cañon Park, which features miles of scenic hiking and biking trails, as well as the awe-inspiring Seven Falls, a series of cascading waterfalls that can be
explored via a series of staircases and hiking trails. For those who prefer a more leisurely outdoor experience, the city offers several world-class golf courses, such as The Broadmoor Golf Club and Patty Jewett Golf Course, where visitors can tee off with stunning mountain views as their backdrop. Colorado Springs is also a popular destination for adventure sports enthusiasts, with opportunities for rock climbing, white-water rafting, and hot air ballooning available in the surrounding areas.
Rich Cultural and Historical Attractions Colorado Springs boasts a vibrant arts and culture scene, with numerous museums, galleries, and performance venues to explore. The Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center at Colorado College features an impressive collection of American, Native American, and Latin American art, as well as traveling exhibitions and a strong theater program.
History buffs will appreciate the city's rich heritage, which can be explored through attractions such as the Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum, housed in a beautifully restored 1903 courthouse, and the Old Colorado City Historic District, a charming neighborhood filled with historic buildings, boutique shops, and cozy eateries.
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Nightlife that Sparkles As dusk settles, the city transforms into a tapestry of twinkling lights and lively energy. Sample craft brews at the Manitou Springs Brewing Company, or sip cocktails with a view at the rooftop bar of The Broadmoor Hotel. Catch a concert at the historic Colorado Springs City Auditorium, or dance the night away at one of the many nightclubs. For a unique experience, join a ghost tour through the historic Old Colorado City, or cozy up around a crackling fire at a mountain lodge, sharing stories and laughter under the star-studded sky.
Olympic City USA As the headquarters for the United States Olympic Committee and the Olympic Training Center, Colorado Springs holds a special place in the world of sports. Visitors can tour the Olympic Training Center, where they'll have the opportunity to see elite athletes in action and learn about the history of the Olympic Byways 22
Games. The city is also home to several sportsrelated attractions, such as the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum and the Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame.
Family-Friendly Fun Colorado Springs offers a variety of attractions to entertain and educate visitors of all ages. The Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, America's only mountain zoo, is home to over 750 animals and boasts stunning mountain views. The zoo features interactive exhibits, such as giraffe feedings and encounters with African elephants. Another popular family attraction is the Space Foundation Discovery Center, an interactive museum that provides hands-on exhibits and educational programs focused on space exploration and science.
Downtown Colorado Springs The city's thriving downtown area offers a wide array of shopping, dining, and entertainment options. Tejon Street, the main thoroughfare, is lined with boutique
shops, art galleries, and a diverse selection of restaurants that cater to all tastes. In the evening, visitors can catch a live performance at one of the city's many theaters or enjoy a craft beer at a local brewery. Colorado Springs is a city that offers a unique blend of stunning natural beauty, rich cultural attractions, and endless opportunities for outdoor adventure. Its proximity to the Rocky Mountains, vibrant downtown scene, and family-friendly attractions make it an ideal destination for travelers of all ages and interests. Whether you're an outdoor enthusiast, a history buff, an art lover, or simply seeking a relaxing getaway, Colorado Springs has something for you. Don't miss the chance to experience the magic of this fun city for yourself.
Garden of the Gods Nestled in the foothills of Pikes Peak just west of Colorado Springs lies a hidden wonder – the Garden of the Gods. This extraordinary natural landmark covering over 1,300 acres features towering
sandstone rock formations sculpted by nature into otherworldly shapes and hues. Yet many visitors to Colorado Springs overlook this geological wonder located right in the city's backyard. The vivid red hue of the sandstone draws the eye through the park, but it's the formations that make it truly unique. Names like Kissing Camels, Balanced Rock, Siamese Twins and Three Graces give a nod to the human, animal and abstract shapes seemingly frozen in the stone. Formed as remnants of mountain-building and erosion, they join the dramatic backdrop of Pikes Peak to create photographs unlike anywhere else. Visitors can explore the park’s scenic trails, scale the ridges or simply marvel at the astounding geology. Whether gazing up at the 300-foot sandstone sentinels or spotting climbers dangling hundreds of feet in the air, the Garden of the Gods is a must-see hidden wonder waiting to be discovered just outside Colorado Springs. https://www.visitcos.com/groups-tours/
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ocated in the heart of the Deep South, Birmingham, Alabama, is a city steeped in history and brimming with cultural attractions. Known as "The Magic City" for its rapid growth during the late 19th century, Birmingham has evolved into a thriving metropolis that offers a diverse range of experiences for the modern traveler.
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interactive exhibits and powerful displays. The 16th Street Baptist Church, a National Historic Landmark, is another essential stop, as it was the site of a tragic bombing in 1963 that galvanized the Civil Rights Movement.
From its rich Civil Rights history to its booming culinary scene and outdoor adventures, this bustling city should be on every traveler's must-visit list.
Birmingham's history is not limited to the Civil Rights Movement. It was established as an industrial city, and its roots in iron and steel production have left their mark on the city's landscape.
The Rich History of Birmingham One of the primary reasons to visit Birmingham is its significant role in American history. The city played a pivotal part in the Civil Rights Movement, and there are numerous sites and attractions that showcase this heritage. The Birmingham Civil Rights Institute is a must-visit attraction; it provides a comprehensive look at the struggles and triumphs of the movement through Byways 26
Sloss Furnaces, a National Historic Landmark, offers a glimpse into the city's industrial past, featuring the remains of a massive ironproducing blast furnace. Visitors can tour the site and learn about Birmingham's early days as an industrial powerhouse.
The Brown Wooden House in Birmingham is a significant historical and architectural landmark. It was designed by W.A. Rayfield, one of the first African-American architects in Alabama.
A Culinary Paradise The culinary scene in Birmingham has experienced a renaissance in recent years, with a variety of new restaurants and eateries opening their doors. From traditional Southern comfort food to innovative fusion cuisine, there is something to satisfy every palate. The city's vibrant food scene has earned it a reputation as a food lover's paradise, with many acclaimed chefs and restaurateurs calling Birmingham home. Some standout eateries include Highlands Bar and Grill, which has received numerous James Beard Foundation awards, and Hot and Hot Fish Club, a popular spot for seafood lovers. For a more casual dining experience, check out Saw's BBQ, where you can sample some of the best barbecue in the South.
Outdoor Adventures Birmingham's location in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains provides ample opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts to explore. The city boasts numerous parks and green spaces, such as Red
Mountain Park, which offers 15 miles of scenic hiking and biking trails, along with zip-lining and tree-top adventures. Oak Mountain State Park, Alabama's largest state park, features over 50 miles of trails, serene lakes, and a wildlife rehabilitation center. For the more adventurous traveler, Ruffner Mountain Nature Preserve offers rugged hiking trails and stunning panoramic views of the city. And if you're looking for a more leisurely outdoor experience, the Birmingham Botanical Gardens provide a beautiful and tranquil setting to wander through lush gardens and enjoy seasonal events.
Art and Culture Birmingham's cultural scene is thriving, with a wide array of museums, galleries, and performance spaces. The Birmingham Museum of Art is home to an impressive Byways 27
collection, including works from the Renaissance period to contemporary pieces. The museum also offers special exhibitions and events throughout the year. For performing arts enthusiasts, the Alabama Theatre is a must-see. This historic venue, built in 1927, has been lovingly restored and hosts a diverse lineup of events, including live music, ballet, and classic film screenings.
Family-Friendly Attractions There are plenty of attractions in Birmingham to keep the entire family entertained. The McWane Science Center is an interactive museum that offers hands-on exhibits and educational programs for kids of all ages. The Birmingham Zoo is another popular family destination, featuring over 700 animals from around the world and a variety of fun and educational experiences. Birmingham, Alabama, is a city that offers a unique blend of history, culture, and outdoor adventure. Its rich heritage, thriving culinary scene, and diverse attractions make it an ideal destination for travelers seeking an authentic Southern experience. Byways 28
Whether you're a history buff, a foodie, an outdoor enthusiast, or simply looking for a family-friendly getaway, Birmingham has something to offer everyone. Don't miss the chance to discover the magic of this vibrant city for yourself.
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Vulcan Park & Museum Tucked away on the outskirts of downtown Birmingham lies a hidden gem, Vulcan Park and Museum. Perched atop Red Mountain and towering over the city, the 56-foot tall cast iron statue of the Roman god of fire, Vulcan, has been watching over Birmingham since 1904. Though he is the tallest cast iron statue in the world, many visitors overlook him. Yet behind this colossal sculpture lies a fascinating history. Vulcan was commissioned for the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair to represent Birmingham’s thriving iron and steel industry. After the fair, he was brought back and installed atop Red Mountain, the very site where the city’s rich seams of iron, coal and limestone fueled this industrial boom. Visitors can ride up to Vulcan’s pedestal, see views stretching for miles, and delve into exhibits covering the geology and industrial heritage of Birmingham inside the museum below. From his lofty perch overlooking the city he helped build, Vulcan stands today as both an icon of the past and a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered by visitors. https://www.birminghamal.org Byways 29
Traveling the Highways & Byways with Bill Graves h, Interstate 80 in Nebraska. It's a road synonymous with endless cornfields, unwavering horizons, and a certain hypnotic, meditative quality.
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You're right, those 72 miles west of Lincoln are as straight as an arrow, earning the title of the longest uninterrupted stretch of interstate in the U.S. It's enough to make you question the curvature of the Earth! But for those who resist the urge to speed through, Nebraska's I-80 offers a treasure trove of surprises just beneath the surface of its golden plains. Take a slight detour south near Kearney, and you'll stumble
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Traveling I-80 in Nebraska
upon the Great Platte River Road Archway, a twostory testament to the pioneer spirit. Rising like anooversized covered wagon from the horizon, it beckons you to explore the stories of the Oregon, Mormon, and California Trails that carved their way through these very lands. Pushing west for another 150 miles, you'll reach North
Platte, a town with a population under 25,000 that packs a punch when it comes to unexpected gems. Here, the main attraction isn't a bustling Main Street or trendy cafes, but the behemoth that is Bailey Yard – the largest railroad classification yard in the world.
It's a symphony of industrial might, with coal trains stretching like iron centipedes, their diesel engines
Imagine a sprawling metropolis of steel and tracks, eight miles long and two miles wide, where trains dance a choreographed ballet of sorting, servicing, and repair. Over 300 miles of track weave through this labyrinth, orchestrating the movement of 135 trains and 15,000 railcars every single day. Byways 31
humming a low song of progress. To truly grasp the immensity of this operation, ascend the 95-foot Golden Spike Tower. From its glass-enclosed observation deck, the entire yard unfolds before you like a living map of American commerce. I once met a retired Union Pacific conductor there who shared stories of Bailey Yard's role in World War II, when it became a vital artery for ferrying troops across the nation. And here's a heartwarming footnote: for 51 months, from Christmas Day 1941, North Platte volunteers met every passing troop train, offering weary soldiers a taste of home with baked goods and sandwiches, serving over six million service members, a testament to the enduring spirit of "The Canteen". So, the next time you find yourself cruising down I80 in Nebraska, remember – the true magic lies not in the miles you conquer, but in the stories you discover along the way. Take a detour, explore a Bailey Yard, or pay your respects to the Canteen volunteers. Byways 32
You might just find that the endless plains hold more history and heart than you ever imagined.
Bonus For true history buffs, North Platte also boasts the Buffalo Bill Ranch State Historical Park, where you can explore the life and legacy of America's Wild West icon. And if you're craving a touch of nature, head north to Lake Ogallala, a haven for water sports and birdwatching.t
About the author: After seeing much of the world as a career naval officer, Bill Graves decided, after he retired, to take a closer look at the United States. He has been roaming the country for 20 years, much of it in a motorhome with his dog Rusty. He lives in Rancho Palos Verdes, California and is the author of On the Back Roads, Discovering Small Towns of America. He can be reached at Roadscribe@aol.com. Byways 33
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itting along the banks of the Missouri River, Omaha, Nebraska, often referred to as the “Gateway to the West”, is a city that captivates visitors with its rich history, vibrant culture, and diverse attractions.
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While it might not be the first destination that comes to mind for many travelers, Omaha has emerged as a hidden gem of the Midwest, offering a unique blend of history, entertainment, and Midwestern charm.
History To truly understand Omaha's allure, one must delve into its rich history. Established in 1854 as a transportation hub during the westward expansion, Omaha played a pivotal role in the development of the United States. The city's roots are deeply intertwined with the Lewis and Clark Expedition, as the explorers camped near the present-day city in 1804. Visitors can step back in time at the Lewis and Clark National Historic Byways 36
Trail Visitor Center, located in Omaha, to learn about the Corps of Discovery's journey and its impact on the region. Omaha's historical significance extends to the Old Market district, a charming area that preserves the city's past while embracing its modern identity. Cobblestone streets wind through brick buildings housing boutiques, galleries, and restaurants, providing a perfect blend of nostalgia and contemporary flair. The Durham Museum, housed in the beautifully restored Union Station, is another must-visit destination for history enthusiasts. It offers a comprehensive look at Omaha's past, from its early pioneer days to its rise as a cultural and economic hub.
Attractions Beyond its historical treasures, Omaha boasts an array of attractions that cater to a diverse range of
interests. The Henry Doorly Zoo and Aquarium consistently ranks as one of the best in the world, offering a captivating experience for animal lovers. From the world's largest indoor rainforest to the immersive Kingdoms of the Night exhibit, the zoo provides an unforgettable journey through various ecosystems. For art aficionados, the Joslyn Art Museum stands as a testament to Omaha's commitment to culture. This renowned institution houses an impressive collection of European and American art, including works by renowned artists such as Monet, Degas, and Grant Wood. The adjacent sculpture garden adds an outdoor element to the museum experience, making it a delightful destination for a leisurely afternoon.
Nature enthusiasts will appreciate Omaha's extensive parks and outdoor spaces, such as Lauritzen Gardens and Heartland of America Park. Lauritzen Gardens, a 100-acre botanical center, showcases a diverse range
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of flora in carefully curated gardens, providing a peaceful retreat within the city. Heartland of America Park, with its picturesque lake and scenic walking trails, offers a tranquil escape for those seeking a nature-filled respite.
Nightlife As the sun sets, Omaha comes alive with a dynamic and inviting nightlife scene. The Old Market district transforms into a bustling hub of activity, offering an eclectic mix of bars, live music venues, and trendy restaurants. Local breweries, such as Brickway Brewery & Distillery, provide craft beer enthusiasts with a taste of Omaha's burgeoning brewing scene. For those seeking live entertainment, the Omaha Performing Arts Center hosts Broadway shows, concerts, and other performances throughout the year. The Byways 38
Holland Performing Arts Center, with its stunning architecture and acoustics, is a cultural landmark that enhances Omaha's reputation as a destination for the arts.
Culinary Delights Omaha's culinary scene is another compelling reason to explore the city. Renowned for its steak, the city boasts a choice of top-notch steakhouses, where visitors can savor the finest cuts of meat. The Drover, located in the historic Stockyards district, is a local favorite, offering a classic steakhouse experience with a rustic ambiance.
imagine the rush of hurtling through the sky at Mach speeds. Explore the fascinating world of nuclear deterrence with exhibits on the Minuteman III and Titan II intercontinental ballistic missiles. The Strategic Air Command & Aerospace Museum is more than just a collection of planes and missiles. It's
Beyond steakhouses, Omaha's diverse culinary landscape includes farm-to-table restaurants, international cuisine, and inventive eateries. The city's food halls, such as Flagship Commons and Inner Rail Food Hall, showcase a variety of culinary talents under one roof, making it easy for visitors to sample an array of flavors. Omaha may not be the first destination that comes to mind for travelers, but it is undoubtedly an upcoming destination waiting to be discovered. From its rich history to its diverse attractions, vibrant nightlife, and culinary delights, Omaha offers a well-rounded experience for visitors of all interests. As you plan your next adventure, consider exploring the charm and allure of this Midwestern city. You may just find that Omaha's warmth, culture, and welcoming spirit make it a destination worth revisiting time and time again. https://www.visitomaha.com
Take Flight at the Strategic Air Command & Aerospace Museum
a place to learn about the Cold War, the sacrifices made by those who served, and the technology that shaped our world. With its immersive exhibits and educational programs, the museum is a must-visit for history buffs, aviation enthusiasts, and anyone curious about this pivotal era. https://www.sacmuseum.org/our-history/
Soar through history at the Strategic Air Command & Aerospace Museum, located just outside of Omaha. This expansive museum tells the story of the Cold War through the lens of the United States Air Force, showcasing iconic aircraft, thrilling exhibits, and interactive displays. Step back in time and marvel at the sheer size and power of a B52 Stratofortress, one of the most recognizable bombers ever built. Climb into the cockpit of a T-38 Talon, a supersonic trainer jet, and Byways 39
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ack your bags and set your sights on Milwaukee, Wisconsin, a vibrant city that packs a punch. This dynamic Midwestern destination seamlessly blends industrial heritage with contemporary cool, appealing to everyone, from history buffs to beer enthusiasts, art lovers to outdoor enthusiasts. Get ready for a trip your whole crew will be raving about.
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Lakefront Vistas Galore Milwaukee's crown jewel is undoubtedly its stunning Lake Michigan shoreline. An abundance of activities awaits those eager to soak up the fresh air and breathtaking scenery. Rent bikes and cruise along the scenic Lakefront Trail, stopping to admire the iconic Milwaukee Art Museum with its soaring wings. Take a boat tour for panoramic views of the city skyline and glimpse the historic Milwaukee Harbor Lighthouse. For panoramic vistas that will leave you amazed, head to Bradford Beach. This lively stretch of sand boasts stunning views of the lake, perfect for picnics, volleyball games, or simply soaking up the sun. Byways 42
And for a truly unique experience, catch a sunset from atop the Milwaukee Public Market's rooftop deck. The fiery hues reflected off the water and the twinkling city lights below create an unforgettable spectacle.
Beer, Brats & Beyond: A Bounty of Flavors Long before craft brewery culture exploded, Milwaukee answered the world's thirst through brands like Miller, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Schlitz. Today over a dozen breweries offer behind-thescenes tours highlighting heritage brands or funky startups like Good City Brewing. But Milwaukee tantalizes all tastebuds, not just hop heads. The sprawling Milwaukee Public Market brims with local artisan wares and global flavors, from just-fried cheese curds to handcrafted chocolates from Indulgence Chocolatiers. Or dive into the city's eastern European heritage at old world delis like Bunzel's Meat Market, dishing German bratwursts and Polish kielbasa sausage.
Small town charm...big city cool! Beyond downtown's glittering theater marquees and neon beer signs lies cozy historic neighborhoods etched with Old World character. Stroll the cobblestone streets of The Third Ward to uncover chic lofts, indie boutiques and cafes worthy of any global capital. Polish heritage lives on in the Historic Mitchell Street neighborhood, where old timers and young hipsters mingle over plates of pierogi at Polonez Restaurant since 1950. Nightlife beckons with the song of legends like The Safe House, an espionage-themed bar with secret passages and passwords for entry (or try the knock sequence). Catch rising comics at The Laugh Factory before toasting Milwaukee's skyline from swanky rooftop bars like The Outsider.
Nearby Natural & Cultural Treasures Milwaukee also shines as a gateway to Wisconsin's pastoral landscapes. Less than an hour south, Kettle Moraine State Forest offers 100 miles of hiking and biking trails curling through glacier-carved terrain.
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Or float through rainbow colored sea caves at Cave Point County Park, a scenic 45 minute drive north along the Lake Michigan shoreline. History awaits just beyond city limits too. Tour the impeccably preserved Victorian mansion at Old Wade House Historic Site in Greenbush, or view over 400 years of Midwestern art at Racine Art Museum – both a quick day trip on I-94. With its exciting urban energy, old world cultural heritage and access to surrounding natural beauty, Milwaukee steals the spotlight as the Midwest's rising star for making travel memories.
The Quirky Charm of Milwaukee's Riverwalk Nestled along downtown Milwaukee’s riverfront lies an unexpected pedestrian pathway mixing old world charm with unexpected quirks at every turn. Byways 44
Travelers wandering the Milwaukee Riverwalk will encounter people fishing, kayaking and dining al fresco during the warmer months. Yet every season promises intrigues beyond the usual urban trail attractions. Across terraces, bridges, fountains and winding trails, a feast for the eyes unfolds. Look down through gently rippling waters to see the Riverwalk’s most unique feature – an underwater viewing corridor offering fish-eye views of the river’s aquatic residents. Sturgeon, catfish, and pike meander through the unusually clear currents as visitors young and old press noses to the thick glass. During spawning seasons, glimpse Lake Michigan fish species swimming upstream to breed. Further along, encounter the invasive species that give the Riverwalk its nickname, Bronze Fonz. This glossy sculpture of fictional rebel Fonzie from Happy Days gives visitors an only-in-Milwaukee photo op.
Beyond the landmark bronze thumbs-up, riverside cafes sell cheese curds while a vintage propeller plane and World War II landing craft bookend grassy riverbanks. For a taste of Milwaukee’s long history as a brewing powerhouse, make time to sip local craft beers in riverside biergartens as you soak up this engaging promenade. Blending natural splendor with oddball charm and easy riverside dining, Milwaukee’s quirky Riverwalk captivates visitors looking to encounter the unexpected on the banks of the Milwaukee River. https://www. visitmilwaukee.org
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ecently proclaimed ‘most popular travel destination in the Carolinas’ by Southern Living magazine, ever timeless Wilmington boasts an intriguing past pegged to a host of current travel enchantments.
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Christened Rio Jordan by Spanish explorers, the 202mile-long Cape Fear River – the only North Carolina river which flows into the Atlantic Ocean – earned a more sinister name in 1585 when Sir Richard Grenville’s Roanoke-bound galleon encountered Carolina’s treacherous sandbars. Fearing they would wreck, crewmen noted Cape Fear on their charts. During the 1760s, town patriots ‘Sons of Liberty’ rebelled against Britain’s (mad) King George 111’s infamous Stamp Tax, 8 years before Boston’s Tea Party. Infuriated locals abducted William Houston, local stamp-master, frog-marched him to the courthouse where, hating the job anyway, he resigned. Local historian/author Chris E. Fonvielle Jr’s informative book ‘Curious Tales from Old Wilmington and the Lower Cape Fear’ includes Byways 48
Buried Alive? The Confederate BlockadeRunner, In Search of the Maco Light, also A Man and His Dog.
Boss – Faithful Until Death Midnight April 11, 1880 A local volunteer fireman and tugboat captain William A. Ellerbrock walking Boss, his dog, discovered a fire at George Peck’s store at the corner of Front & Dock Streets. Ellerbrock asked a bystander to hold his dog before rushing into the flaming building. Suddenly burning timbers fell around him. Hearing his master’s cries for help, Boss broke loose, racing into the growing inferno. When Ellerbrock failed to show up for breakfast the next morning, his uncle began searching for him.
His charred body was found, trapped by a heavy timber where Boss perished while trying to drag the man to safety, pulling so hard coat fragments remained gripped in his jaws. Boss was placed in the casket with Captain Ellerbrock, and their Oakdale Cemetery monument has a sleeping dog carved at the base and epitaph: ‘Faithful Unto Death.’ Visitors cannot fully experience the town without taking a river trip. Wilmington Water Tours offers assorted voyages on the dark waters of the Cape Fear River, like Black Water Adventure, Eagles Island Cruise, Sunset Cruise, History with Dr. Chris Fonvielle, Outlander in the Cape Fear, among others. Happily, the largely unpopulated northeast Cape Fear River looks today almost as in pre-1600s and tour captains long familiar with these ancient waters share secrets, known only to veteran boatmen. They reveal why Wilmington was once reliant on ancient longleaf pine forests, where enormous trees, nicknamed ‘naval stores,’ were harvested for tar, pitch, rosin, turpentine - highly coveted lumber shipped to Britain, before the American Revolution. Waterway boating is popular with photographers and birders armed with binoculars spying wildlife along willowy shores, where osprey, herons, alligators, sea turtles and river otters, eons before the first keel of a ship cleft Cape Fear River. Wilmington’s splendid Railroad Museum commemorates the rise and decline of the oncevibrant railroad town. The Atlantic Coast Line (ACL) brought office buildings, warehouses, a roadhouse, passenger, freight terminals, workshops too, with 1,330 employed, until 1955 when ACL up and relocated to Jacksonville, Florida, along with an $8 million payroll loss to the city. Byways 49
The museum is housed in a former freight warehouse where HO, G, O and N scale locomotives pull carriages over a 1600-square-feet track. Wait till you see the miniature townships, busily populated with model cars, a fire truck busily attending a tenement blaze, shops, churches – even a massage parlor! A variety of curious memorabilia conjure ghosts of steam-powered trains, plush Pullman coaches, back when proudly uniformed conductors ruled.
Thalian Hall Center For Performing Arts We joined a gathering of fans on stage in hoisting champagne toasts celebrating 165 years of Thalian Hall’s history. Harry Houdini, Buffalo Bill Cody, Oscar Wilde, Charlie Daniels Band played this very stage, which boasts uninterrupted performances even during the Civil War. Legends & Main Attraction venues sell-out so do book early. Unless you suffer from vertigo, request the frighteningly-steep 3rd floor tour, aka ‘The Gods’. In search of culinary curiosities? Wilmington offers oodles of palate-tempting eateries, fine dining Meccas to pizza joints and right friendly pubs. Elijah’s romantic riverside location is only surpassed by seafood, so fresh, an enthusiastic veterinarian could revive it! Half-shell Oysters Rockefeller Byways 50
garnished with spinach, applewood smoked bacon and fresh herbs. Hearty Gin and tonic, zesty lime slice, ideal.
Next door The Pilot House, too, boasts a waterfront deck, quiet live music. Who does not enjoy outdoor dining, as lazy sailboats, going no place in particular glide past? Crunchy Catfish, Oysters, Flounder, Scallops, jumbo lump Crab Cakes…the menu goes on and on and on. Market Street’s popular PinPoint Restaurant; freshest grouper this side of Nassau, Bahamas, served with sweet potatoes, seared greens, rutabaga, Sea Island Red Peas, apple & pepper salad. Wine; Château La Freynelle; Exceptional. Tip; do reserve their window table! For sheer effrontery Wilmington’s offbeat Museum of the Bizarre is a blast! Awash in curiosities, horror movie props, a mirror maze, shrunken heads, spooky vintage coffin (empty?). There is even an ‘evil Necronomicon’ to thrill to, even a Crystal Skull of Knowledge, which Congress could surely use!
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Nearby, Fort Fisher State historic site slumbers amidst enchanting live oak woodlands where reedy marshlands border secluded walkways. Fort Fisher grew to be the largest earthen fortification in the South, thanks to which Wilmington remained the last port open to supply General Lee’s forces. A free exhibition center hosts Civil War armaments and bookshops. Guided fortress tours are on offer, or, wander this peaceful estuary at your own pace.
River Tours https://wilmingtonwatertours.net
Indeed, Wilmington has it all...
About the Author
Springtime roundup • Attend North Carolina Azalea Festival (April) •Concerts at Live Oak Bank Pavilion • Ravenous Venus Flytraps at Carolina Beach State Park • Join Fourth Friday Art Gallery Nights • Sample Brew Hopping on Wilmington’s Ale Trail • Savor Sunset Cruise on the Cape Fear River • Wander among Airlie Gardens' amazing landscapes.
Wilmington, N.C., and Island Beaches https://www.wilmingtonandbeaches.com Wilmington Railroad Museum https://www.wrrm.org
Reading - Curious Tales from Old Wilmington and the Lower Cape Fear http://www.chrisfonvielle.com
Photojournalist Jim Leggett, a native of Scotland, is based in North Carolina, and Nassau, Bahamas. His passions include steamships, motorcycles, open cockpit flying, and whiskey, in moderation. He is also a veteran pipe band drummer.
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n a year buzzing with travel possibilities, Washington D.C.'s National Mall stands out as an experience far exceeding sightseeing snapshots and souvenir magnets.
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This 2-mile stretch of green isn't simply a museum of marble and granite; it's a living testament to American ideals, echoing with the whispers of history and the pulse of contemporary change. Here, beneath the watchful gaze of iconic monuments, visitors engage in a vibrant dialogue with the nation's soul, discovering not just what America was, but what it strives to be. For travelers seeking intellectual nourishment, the National Mall's smorgasbord of world-class museums offers a feast for the mind. Immerse yourself in the Smithsonian Institution's dazzling array, from the Air and Space Museum's celestial wonders to the Natural History Museum's prehistoric giants. Byways 54
Unravel the complexities of American history at the Museum of American History or the National Museum of African American History and Culture, where exhibits resonate with personal narratives and powerful social reflections. Beyond the Smithsonian, delve into the poignant stories of war at the National
World War II Museum or explore the intricacies of espionage at the International Spy Museum.
But the National Mall's allure extends beyond its walls. The very stones beneath your feet recall tales of protest and progress.
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Stand near the imposing Lincoln Memorial, where Martin Luther King Jr. declared his dream of equality, and walk its steps that echo President Lincoln’s stirring words of unity during the nation's darkest hour. Trace the footsteps of countless suffragettes who marched for voting rights near the Reflecting Pool, or contemplate the quiet dignity of the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, his words inscribed in granite. "Justice delayed is justice denied." The National Mall isn't merely a static showcase of the past; it's a vibrant platform for contemporary discourse. Witness passionate debates on the grounds of the Capitol Building, the heartbeat of American legislation. Attend a rally or protest on the Ellipse, where citizens raise their voices to advocate for change. Byways 56
Participate in open-air yoga sessions near the Washington Monument or join a spirited drum circle around the Tidal Basin, soaking in the city's infectious energy. Beyond the political and historical, the National Mall offers a haven for artistic expression and cultural exchange. Catch a free outdoor concert beneath the summer sky or marvel at the intricate kites dancing in the wind during the annual Smithsonian Kite Festival. Browse the vibrant stalls of the National Christmas Market, a festive wonderland of unique crafts and culinary delights. During the Cherry Blossom Festival, witness the Tidal Basin awash in a delicate sea of pink, a celebration of friendship and cultural fusion. For those seeking respite from the urban buzz, the National Mall provides a much-needed dose of natural beauty. Stroll along the shores of the Tidal Basin, rent a paddle boat and navigate its serene waters, or cycle through the tree-lined avenues, losing yourself in the rhythmic chirping of birds and the rustling of leaves. Pack a picnic and relax under the shade of a majestic oak, enjoying the simple pleasures of a quiet afternoon amid the grandeur of history. Ultimately, a visit to the National Mall in 2024 is an investment in self-discovery. It's a chance to connect with the spirit of a nation, to delve into its triumphs and tribulations, its contradictions and aspirations. It's a space for contemplation, for inspiration, for understanding that the legacy of a nation lies not just in its monuments, but in the hearts and minds of its people. So pack your curiosity, your walking shoes, and an open mind – the National Mall awaits, ready to unveil its magic and make your journey an unforgettable exploration of the American soul. https://www.si.edu/visit t
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Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America. Byways is emailed to more than 5,000 tour operators and Travel Trade. Subscriptions are complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in the App Store. An Android browser version is available at www.issuu.com/byways. Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, selected travel agents, and other group
tour travel promoters. It is also available to consumers with an interest in North American travel. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to place advertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 540-233-1121. ©Copyright 2024 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in any form without express written permission of the publisher.
Editor & Publisher Stephen M. Kirchner
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Colorado Springs Tourism, Colorado ........................................................................................... 11 Discover Dekalb Convention & Visitors Bureau, Georgia ........................................................... 7 Elkhart County Tourism, Indiana .................................................................................................. 8 Sullivan Catskills Visitors Association, New York ....................................................................... 5 Wheeling Tourism, West Virginia................................................................................................... 2
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