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OCT - DEC 2020 VOLUME 15 ISSUE 130
Rolex brings the iconic Submariner into the next decade.
HEIR TO THE THRONE
Minutes October-December 2020
Editor's words
S
o we have decided to start something new. Actually we were requested to do this. By the time you read this, at least on paper, hopefully you have seen our new webinar. We did this in collaboration with a large premium shopping mall group, which asked us to bring our own little blend of enthusiasm and technical geekery to a wider audience. We of course have always known that this was possible. And we've tried to do it in our own little way. We're trying to bring our chats out to the world via zoom and similar products. We are also trying to bring ourselves out by videos, some of which are done just at home by the guys, and some of which we do by going places and seeing new and very very old things. We have always believed that there is a much wider audience out there than people realize. We know that people are interested in watches at very different levels for all the different types of watches. And we applaud that interest, and we will do our best to feed it. We made it clear to this group that we are supportive, in general, of everyone, and we do not focus necessarily on particular segments or particular brands only. This is something we've always said anyway, that we believe that all products kind of deserve a fair shake. We believe that
enthusiasm has to start somewhere. And that we are very happy to watch it and help it grow. It was interesting because at the start of the conversation with this group, they were talking about things like plants. And they were treating watches like other objects, at least in terms of the way they thought about them in terms of people who visit their malls. Yet each one of them had a story or a question or an idea about watches. And after a little probing we found that, yes, they did mean something to everyone, which did actually proved our point. Yes, these are products that you can buy in a mall or online, or from friends or whatever, but they are also different. As we told them, they are not t-shirts or bags or shoes. Watches are something that are important to people in a very different way. They are multi generational. They are this amazing combination of technology and history and challenge and adventure and science and artistry. I don't know if the facts convinced them, or the fact that we are so enthusiastic about what we do. Either way, we are now tasked with bringing yet more people down our little horological rabbit hole. If you have been reading us before then you already know what we do. If you have just started reading us or watching us, or listening to us, then, welcome. Either way, enjoy the ride.
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief
carsandcalibres
2 www.calibremagazine.com
TI M E , A HE RMÈS OB JECT.
Arceau L’heure de la lune Time flies to the moon
October-December 2020
Contents Cover Watch
C OV E R WAT C H ROLEX
SUBMARINER
30 Rolex
Prepares the Submariner for the next decade
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October-December 2020
Contents Features
38
Patek Philippe
Off the Cuff, Of the Cuff
42
Tudor
The new Royal range of watches and a Navy Blue Black Bay
46
A. Lange & Sรถhne Pays tribute to the man that started it all
50
Roger Dubuis
Is powered by the obsessive quest for pleasure
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October-December 2020
Contents Features
54
Greubel Forsey
Effortlessly balances sportiness and technical innovation
58
IWC
The TOP GUN: built for naval aviators
62
Panerai
Makes another for its faithful
66
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Celebrates its Musical Legacy
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Parallel Passion
DESIRABLE DIVERSION
A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life. - Oscar Wilde
October-December 2020
Contents Features
70
Richard Mille
Joins an extremely exclusive horological club
74
Vacheron Constantin
One-off Les Cabinotiers piece and ‘experience’ to go under the hammer
76
Glashütte Original
Creates a watch for connoisseurs
80
Omega
50th Anniversary of the Speedmaster
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JEWELRY:
Ardor for adornment
Jewelry is a way of keeping memories alive -Lily Collins
October-December 2020
Contents Features
82
Omega
Celestial luster
84
TAG Heuer
Gives us the classic face of the Carrera chronograph
88
Oris
Continuing their mission to promote Change for the Better
92
Urwerk
Replaces its best with something even better
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Parallel Passion
DESIRABLE DIVERSION
Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self, and helps define me as a man to whom details matter. - Gay Talese, auThor
October-December 2020
Contents Regulars
02
Minutes
Carl S. Cunanan
18
Tempus Incognitum JP C. Calimbas
20
Back to Basics
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
22
Vintage Explorer Jose Martin V. UrsĂşa
24
The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World
96
Timeframe
Pictures in time as we travel the world
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Editor-In-Chief
Carl S. Cunanan Joseph Peter C. Calimbas
Executive Editor Senior Editor
Hernan C. Mapua Jason S. Ang
Collections Editor
Kit O. Payumo
Associate Editor
Alberto E. Casal
Senior Staff Writer Multimedia Editor
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
Design Director
Charie L. Biaden
Senior Designer
Mark David A. See
Junior Designer
Mary Ann E. Marcelo
Designer
Pamela Karla S. Biado
Contributing Writers
Katherine S. Cunanan, Jose Martin V. Ursúa, Leonard Vincent L. Ho, Edrich Santos & Dominique O. Cerqueda Contributing Photographer
Keith Sundiang
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Units 2104 , 88 Corporate Center, 141 Valero corner Sedeño St.,
Vice President for Advertising Sales
Salcedo Village, Makati City 1227 Philippines
Mayette L. Asis
Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Fax: (+632) 8844.2599 URL: www.c-magazine.com / www.calibremagazine.com
Advertising Manager
Leslie G. Maxilom
Advertising Traffic Manager
Mary Jane O. Salazar
Special Projects & Events Specialist
Telephone
(+632) 7751 8992
Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc. #5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City
Ria A. Fernandez Fax
Tel: (+632) 7945-5089
(+632) 8844 2599
Publisher
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Managing Director Directors
Carl S. Cunanan
Carl S. Cunanan, Kevin C. Limjoco,
Copyright © 2020 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.
Michael L. Lhuiller & Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Sherwin M. Miñon
Circulation Manager Senior Accountant
Merline B. Urdas
Credit and Collection Officer Accounting Assistant Executive Secretary Legal Counsel
FOLLOW AND VISIT OUR PAGES!
Mary Ann M. Benito
Susana D. Cutamora Elsie A. Teofilo
www.calibremagazine.com
Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office
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@calibremagazineph
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Calibre 130
Tempus Incognitum October-December 2020
Stepping Out
A
fter eight months into lockdown, I finally was able to take my 3-year old mid-sized doggo for a walk. Not that she’s been cooped up into a kennel or anything but at least she was finally able to stretch her legs beyond the 20-meter by 2-meter enclosure that she had been confined to all this time. As I put on her harness, I could see that she was so excited to finally go outside and check out all the spots that she used to sniff at and leave her own scent marks. After a couple of times walking up and down our street, I felt it was time to go back home. I knew it wasn’t enough but I was still slightly hesitant to go on our usual walk around the area given that there is still a pandemic in full swing. Hopefully the short amount of time Lucky, my adopted aspin, got to smell the big outside world was enough to satisfy her curiosity and bring back memories of what the world was like from canine point of view. I mention this because in spite of being able to go out and have a slight semblance of normal life, I accept that life before lockdown won’t be returning to normal anytime soon or maybe even never the
way it was. It seems eons ago when we attended the last event we were invited to and even that caused a slight panic on our part because it was less than a week before the general community quarantine took effect. When the lockdown hit, there was so much uncertainty and anxiety about how things would pan out. We just had to hunker down and see it through. And see it through we did. Although we are not back to full operations, we are still able to do what we love and keep our heads above water. To be honest, I wasn’t even sure I wanted to read and write about watches as the pandemic burned through the globe. Usually, my late nights are spent reading the emails coming in from watch brands when they have new releases up for dissemination. From the month of March until he ended his evening press briefings, I tried to watch all the news about the virus from different sources on the net culminating with NY Gov. Andrew Cuomo’s press cons. The world seemed to be in a dark place but we move on. If we tread cautiously and care about one another, we will prevail in this new world, was the gist of his final nightly briefings. From then on, I slowly picked up and started writing features for our online
JP C. Calimbas Executive editor
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portals, getting into the groove of online reporting and keeping our social media presence fresh and active. Soon, we got word that we could finally print an issue of Calibre and the wheels of publishing began to turn once more albeit in a slower pace. Through all this, we have our partners and advertisers to thank for sticking with us through the thin. When you get your hands on this issue, it would be nearly 300 days since the world stopped on a dime. But we are still around and so are you. Watches and luxury timepieces might not be the foremost thing on your minds at this time but if you are like us, it’s just a conduit to passion. And it’s this passion that kept us sane throughout the uncertainty of life in lockdown. And it’s this passion which will surely make the coming year a better one for all of us! Happy holidays and keep safe!
Calibre 130
Back to Basics October-December 2020
A World In Lockdown
About Watch Collecting in a Pandemic
E
arlier this year, our annual trip to Baselworld (and Watches and Wonder Geneva) was unceremoniously thrown to the trash bin thanks to the lockdowns happening all over the world. Even when both watch fairs announced that this year’s events were cancelled due to the pandemic, our fearless leader was still contacting different watch companies and letting them know that we were still open to go to Switzerland if they were planning to host any event as a substitute to Baselworld or Watches and Wonder. While we were obviously disappointed about not seeing all of the new releases in the flesh due to the cancelled watch fairs in Basel and Geneva, life goes on for us watch collectors. The reality is that even in the middle of a pandemic, there will still be new releases and new opportunities for us to collect. This holds true even for countries in extended lockdown such as ours.
During Modified ECQ, online purchases became the norm as travel was still strictly monitored and even discouraged. For people ‘trapped’ at home, buying watches online was welcome respite from all of the stress and anxiety brought about by COVID-19. The pre-owned watch market was in full throttle during this time. Even my favorite watchmaker started offering his services online by having people send over their watches to his house through courier service. As time passed and travel restrictions were lifted when we moved from Modified ECQ to GCQ, so did the watch industry also hit its stride. Each watch company embraced the new normal of revealing their novelties for the year online. A few brands were able to schedule strictly regulated media events with only a handful of people allowed to see their new releases in the flesh before they hit the stores. The good thing about having these virtual media events is the short turnaround time between announcing the new releases and having them available for
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Multimedia Editor
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sale right after. At Baselworld and Watches and Wonder Geneva, only journalists and hardcore enthusiasts (who make it a point to go there) actually get to see the new releases in the flesh early in the year. The rest of the world has to wait months at a time before any of these watches make it to their stores. People in stable financial footing were able to capitalize on various opportunities that presented themselves during this pandemic. Some watches entered the preowned market due to various unfortunate reasons, and discounts were readily offered for those willing to spend in these difficult times. “In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity,” Albert Einstein once said. If one is able, now is as good a time as any to buy. Watch collecting waits for no one. Not even if you're stuck at home because of a pandemic.
Calibre 130
Vintage Explorer October-December 2020
The Accidental Watches POLEROUTER, AQUAPLANER April showers came down hard as I drove on the Don Valley Parkway in Toronto. Scenic and curvy, it’s a wonderful bit of road when traffic is light and the asphalt is dry. As I switched lanes to make room for a merging truck, I hit a puddle in the middle of one of those curves. As Martin Brundle says, once you aquaplane, you’re a passenger. I instantly lost control of my car, which pulled further left and bounced off the concrete divider. Now I was skidding across lanes and heading straight into the outer guardrail. Few times have I ever been so terrified, as I expected to be severely injured or worse. Events did not unfold in slow motion nor did my life flash before my eyes. Everything happened in real-time, and I braced for a terrific impact… that blessedly never came. Plunging into the Armco could not have felt more gentle and anticlimactic. My only injury was a powder burn above the left thumb, caused by the exploding airbag. Looking down in the now-dusty and quiet cabin, I was shocked to discover that my car had knee airbags, which I believe softened the impact further. But it was the end of the road for my dark green Mustang, which served me faithfully for 118,000 km and kept me safe in the end. If you’ve ever played Red Dead Redemption 2, then you will never forget how its hero
Arthur Morgan said goodbye to his dying horse: “Thank you.” On my wrist for that misadventure was a 1955 Universal Polerouter — one of Gérald Genta’s early designs. I had purchased it from a friend in Manila last year, for a suspiciously low price. I correctly guessed that there were serious problems with the movement, but the asking was cheap enough that I would be satisfied even if I ended up with a display piece. Fortunately, another friend in Toronto is an amateur but mechanically gifted watchsmith, and he was able to repair it with a few fabricated parts. The Polerouter was completely unharmed in the crash.
BRYCEN AND BROKEN Despite the tribulations of Covid-19, it has been an exceptionally good year for me on the bicycle, one of my other great passions. By mid-August, I was on target to clock my highest-ever annual mileage — remarkable, as my previous record was set in a year when I was just out of school and mostly unemployed. I was on a regular after-work ride at a park near my home that is open to cyclists and pedestrians only. Confusingly, it has speedbumps on its roadway and, inexplicably (considering how many times I’ve been on this exact route), I hit one of them very badly. My
Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer
22 www.calibremagazine.com
front wheel deflected 90 degrees to the right, down went my bike, and the left side of my body hit the pavement. In addition to the usual road rash, my left elbow was fractured — the first broken bone in my life. I will refrain from recounting the grisly details of what followed, but as of this writing, I have a steel plate on my elbow, and healing faster than expected. For that doomed ride, I wore a brandnew Citizen Brycen Eco-Drive that I had expressly bought for biking. It’s an accurate and lightweight titanium chronograph, with a gorgeously brilliant blue dial. It might be the best beater watch I’ve ever owned, and it certainly earned the title on that day. The watch hit the road face-first, and its sapphire crystal was dragged across concrete. Other than scrapes on the bezel, the Citizen was undamaged. Friends have asked if I have any negative feelings toward these watches, as they’re unforgettably intertwined with these events. Not at all. These two watches went through extraordinary events and survived. Or to paraphrase the old slogan: They took a licking and kept on ticking. Just like me!
October-December 2020
The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world
CARTIER
TOP OF THE LINE
Jackson Wang and the Pasha de Cartier
“T
here’s no final destination in life, but every step towards your goal, every chapter in your history, is a big time for me. Just trust yourself and write your own history.” Wise words from Jackson Wang, a multi-hyphenate taking the world by storm. Wang inspires a generation to go beyond what the world has identified them as. Look no further than his bio to see how thinking outside the box has its benefits.
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Wang was born in Hong Kong, to supportive parents who were athletes in their own right. His dad was a medalist in fencing, while his mom was a gymnast. As expected, Wang grew to have an interest in sports, in fencing, just like his father. He was a member of the Hong Kong national fencing team, and won several titles, among them the Asian Junior Cadet Fencing Champion in 2011. He was also an academic achiever, with university scholarships on offer. But the ‘as expected’ part of Wang’s story ends here. What follows is a series of unusual, or nonconformist, decisions that have brought him to his success. Instead of pursuing the expected or predetermined path, Wang chose to think otherwise. He set his sights high, in this case, further north. He moved to Seoul, Korea and began training for K-pop, or Korean pop culture. Yes, a Chinese guy in a Korean boy band. Unexpected yet successful. A couple years later brought a stint in a Korean reality show. Shortly after that, he joined Got7, a Korean boy band. He didn’t rest on his band’s laurels though, and eventually had solo pursuits in performing, hosting, and composing. His efforts have earned accolades, including Annual Variety Star Award in the Chinese Music Awards, and Breakthrough Singer of the Year. Wang is more than the typical pop star. He is fluent in several languages — Chinese,
Cantonese, Korean, French, and English, to name a few. He also endorses several Chinese products ranging from beverages to clothing. He also has his own brand – Team Wang. He has forged his own path, the unexpected, and continues to push forward. A driven man like Jackson Wang doesn’t settle for the mundane or the typical. He sees beyond the normal and looks for the unexpected. He also expects excellence, in himself and others. And no other watch would suit him better than the Pasha de Cartier Skeleton Tourbillon in pink gold. Cartier, some might say, is expected for someone as creative and modern as Wang. The Pasha is also modern, and the Skeleton Tourbillon is anything but expected. The pink gold is itself a deviation from the ‘typical’ yellow gold or stainless steel. The mechanical movement watch is skeletonized, which gives it that added interest, that extra edge. Powered by the caliber 9466 MC, the watch has hours and minutes, and yes, the tourbillon.
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The Wind-Up
BENTLEY
THE 2020 LUXURY CAR OF THE YEAR The Bentley Flying Spur wins prestigious UK award.
T
he Sunday Times is a British newspaper published by the Times Newspapers Ltd. and has the largest circulation in the UK. They have acquired a reputation for their strength in investigative reporting. In 2003, they inaugurated the World Car Awards to recognise, reward, and inspire excellence in the automotive industry. Presently, the Awards has 94 global jurors who test drive and evaluate new or
redesigned cars. For the past eight years, the World Car Awards has been the number one awards program, based on Cision Insight’s 2020 media report. The Sunday Times’ experts gathered vehicles that went on sale in the UK between June 1, 2019 and May 31, 2020, then shortlisted these into 14 categories. These include sports cars, SUVs, electric cars, and even one solely for British-built models. “There was no shortage of vehicles to consider,” the publication said. In the 2020 Motor Awards Luxury Car of the Year category, the Bentley Flying Spur bested five other models, three of which were SUVs, a coupé, and a limitedrun sports car. The Sunday Times said that the Bentley Flying Spur “represents the very best of hand-built luxury, with stunning attention to detail and exceptional craftsmanship.” They continued on to say:
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“Yet it’s also stunningly quick and wonderful to drive, so while the back seats are a wonderful place to spend time in, when Jeeves gets tired, you’re more than happy to take over behind the wheel.” The Bentley Flying Spur is the ultimate luxury Grand Touring sedan, as it blends performance and limousine-levels of comfort. Beneath the bonnet, an enhanced version of Bentley’s 6.0-liter twinturbocharged W12 is nestled. This powerful engine is mated with an advanced dualclutch, eight-speed transmission. This new engine allows the car to accelerate from a standstill to 100 km/h in just 3.8 seconds, and capable of nearly reaching a top speed of 350 km/h. But power and speed are not the only attributes of this car. It has phenomenal handling and ride qualities as well, thanks to the Flying Spur’s electronic
15:05
October December 2020
all-wheel steering that is combined with an active all-wheel drive system and the Bentley Dynamic Ride — the world’s first 48-volt electric anti-roll system. The cabin design incorporates sustainable and natural materials while embracing a host of new technologies. Primary among these is the unique Bentley Rotating Display on the dashboard. This HD instrument panel rotates to offer three different themes: 1) a 12.3-inch digital touchscreen, 2) analog dials, and 3) a digital-detox wood veneer finish. Another tech feature is a detachable touchscreen remote control — the centrepiece in the rear seat — that operates all the convenience functions such as the blinds, climate control, seat massage settings, and a multi-configuration mood lighting system. To see the all-new Bentley Flying Spur, call Bentley Manila at 09188370527.
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The Wind-Up
LEICA
THE LEICA OSKAR BARNACK AWARD PHOTO COMPETITION Presenting the winners of the LOBA 2020.
O
skar Barnack was a German inventor who built what would later become the first commercially successful 35mm film camera. He called it the Ur-Leica. He was one of the earliest photographers to document man’s relationship with the environment. His photographs of the floods in Wetzlar in 1920 are now considered to be the first reportage series with a 35mm still film camera. In 1979, on the 100th anniversary of his birth, Leica set up a photo competition in honour of Mr. Barnack — the Leica Oskar Barnack Award. This year, on its 40th edition, the Leica Oskar Barnack Award is proud to present the winners of the competition. In the main category, Italian photographer Luca Locatelli (nominated by Alice Gabriner, Photo Editor, USA) won the award for his series Future Studies. His series of 20 photos questions the existing concepts around permanent economic growth and opens up an intense debate with regard to our relationship with nature and with technology.
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October December 2020
Locatelli stated: “One of the characteristic symptoms of the times we are living in is the growing feeling that we are losing the vision of a better future, or a promising, yet unknown, hypothetical tomorrow. During these tough times of COVID-19, when the world seems to have stood still, we have been given a chance like never before. We can consider what our behaviour should look like in the future, where efforts should be made to re-establish a healthy relationship with nature and the planet.” Locatelli received a cash prize of 40,000 euros and camera equipment valued at 10,000 euros. The Newcomer Award is given to photographers up to the age of 30. This honour is given to Portuguese photographer Gonçalo Fonseca (nominated by Silvia Omedes, Curator and Photo Editor, Spain) for his New Lisbon series. His
19-color photo image series offers insight into the dramatic circumstances currently affecting the housing situation in Lisbon. Because of exploding property prices, many tenants have lost their homes. Making use of individual stories, he reveals the consequences of increasing gentrification. Gonçalo Fonseca: “My New Lisbon series explores the issue of housing insecurity, and reveals the fears and anxiety that arise when you don’t have a stable roof over your head. In recent years, at least 10,000 tenant families have been put out on the streets by their landlords, and have no other alternative than to squat in abandoned apartments. This is their story.” As the winner of the Newcomer category, Fonseca receives a photographic assignment, a two-week tutoring course at Leica Camera AG Headquarters in Wetzlar, and a Leica Q valued at 5,000 euros.
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C OV E R WAT C H ROLEX
SUBMARINER
THE KING IS DEAD,
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Rolex updates probably the most iconic tool watch ever
LONG LIVE THE KING Word s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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C OV E R WAT C H ROLEX
SUBMARINER
T
o say that Rolex has always been “slow” in updating its various collections is an understatement. Indeed, even the speed at which the-master-of-the-slowreveal has taken to unveil variations of their many existing models has been positively glacial, opting for annual minor “fixes” for a few select pieces. After all, why fix what isn’t broke? Rolex (as well as the hordes of fans of the watchmaker) has never seen the need to revamp any in its existing lineup. Which is why it came as such a welcome surprise that Rolex decided to update not just select models in the Submariner range but the entire Submariner collection for 2020. A product of the post war boom of the 1950s, the Rolex Submariner is closely linked to the development of deep sea diving and is the first true tool watch of Hans Wilsdorf’s watch company. Making its world debut at Baselworld 1954, the Submariner made its company bows a year earlier, in 1953, and benefitted directly from the development of the Rolex Oyster, the watchmaker’s first dustproof and waterproof wristwatch from 1926, as well as to other Rolex wristwatches such as the Explorer, and the TurnO-Graph (ref. 6202). In the sixty-seven years that have passed since, the Rolex Submariner has maintained its untarnished reputation as the shining standard for diving watches. Which is why an update such as this, from a company notorious for keeping its upgrades close to its vest, is such a significant occasion. That’s right, 2020 is definitely the year of the Rolex Submariner, which sees the debut of the next generation of both date (ref. 126610) and “no date” (ref. 124060) versions. Sporting slightly larger cases, these new models replace the out-going Rolex Submariner Date (ref. 116610) and Rolex Submariner (ref. 114060), respectively. And that’s not all. 2020 also sees the debut of a yellow Rolesor version that combines Oystersteel (Rolex’s own 904L steel alloy) with 18K yellow gold; the return of the Submariner “Kermit” (ref.
126610LV) with its green ceramic bezel and black dial, indeed, a welcome addition for fans looking for their emerald fix with the departure of the popular all-green Rolex Submariner “Hulk” (ref. 116610LV); as well as a white gold version with a black dial and date (ref. 126619LB), which replaces the now-discontinued “Smurf” (ref. 116619) another beloved Submariner with an all-blue bezel and dial. And yet, take away all the pomp and circumstance, and it’s obvious from the photos that this is yet another case of Rolex working at its evolution-not-revolution best. In fact, all these “updates” are subtle at most, and belong squarely in the blink-and-you’ll-probably-missthem category. In fact, even the most die-hard Rolex fan will be hard-pressed to believe that almost everything from the previous generation has been remodeled, redesigned, updated, or simply changed. But Rolex believes that God is firmly in the details, and since Hans Wilsdorf’s brand has always been the master of practical application, these little “tweaks” speak loudly in the real world, the loudest of which is the increased case size.
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Ever since Rolex first released its Cerachrom (in-house speak for ceramic) bezel with the Submariner (ref. 116610) in 2010, the watchmaker opted to keep its traditional 40mm case size. A practice it continued with the no-date variant (ref. 114060) in 2012. For 2020, Rolex has given the Submariner more room to breathe by upsizing the entire collection ever so slightly to 41mm, not a monumental size increase, to be sure, but enough to trigger dramatic changes in comfort and wearability. Which brings us to the main reason for the changes in 2020. Decidedly softening their rigid emphasis on tool-watch design, Rolex has, instead, chosen to focus on the wearability of the entire Submariner range. And God bless them for that, because the first order of business was the axing of the previous models’ “maxi” style case. Indeed, its broad lugs and rigid tool-watch proportions have been eschewed for a new generation with slightly larger cases and redesigned lugs. And what a difference these changes make. To think, case size was only increased by 1mm, while the size of the lugs were proportionally DE-creased in relation to the increase in case size, all while maintaining the same 12mm thickness of its predecessor. That’s right, operating in what initially looks like full contradictory mode, Rolex slightly upsized the Submariner’s case by 1mm only to downsize its lugs by 0.8mm, going from 27.5mm to 26.7mm in length, and tapering them ever so slightly in an effort to accommodate even more wrist sizes. And wait, that’s not all. Rolex also changed the lug width on these new models. For the longest time, every single Rolex Professional model featured 20mm wide lugs, which (not coincidentally) is the industry standard lug width for tool watches. These new Submariners feature 21mm wide lugs, which, according to the press release was made to accommodate a broader Oyster bracelet. Another aspect of the Submariner that benefitted from a change in proportion is the crown guard. Yet another prime example of blink-andyou’ll-miss-it, the new crown guards were modified to accommodate the new case shape and size, and are now more angled as they taper towards the case and flank the omnipresent Triplock crown.
C OV E R WAT C H ROLEX
SUBMARINER
“THE RESULT OF ALL THESE CHANGES IS A NEW GENERATION OF THE BEST FITTING SUBMARINERS EVER, AND NOT ONLY DO ALL THESE TRANSLATE TO OVERALL BETTER EVERYDAY WEARABILITY, BUT THESE MODELS ALSO SPORT THE MOST BALANCED PROPORTIONS OF ANY ROLEX SUBMARINER YET” The result of all these changes is a new generation of the best fitting Submariners ever, and not only do all these translate to overall better everyday wearability, but these models also sport the most balanced proportions of any Rolex Submariner yet. True, these changes are so subtle only a side-by-side comparison will ever reveal the differences. But we believe these changes were made with comfort in mind, which puts the Submariner in an even better position to fulfill its role as an everyday-anywhere wristwatch, a role it adopted after shedding its sole water-bound toolwatch vocation years ago. But the two elements that Rolex opted not to change (too much) are the new model’s dial and bezel. Practically identical to the outgoing ceramic generation, the Submariner’s functional dial and bezel were already paragons of legibility and functionality, and equipped with the brand’s latest technologies and materials these maintain their clean and unambiguous design. The hour and minute hands, for example, are clearly differentiated in size and shape, with the minute hand now slightly longer to reach the minute scale, and the “Mercedes” hour hand also slightly wider than in previous incarnations. The seconds hand, however, retains its lollipop design and proportions, along with its luminous “dot” to mark its position. As before, all hands are forged in 18K white gold and are generously filled with Chromalight, Rolex’s own luminous luminescent material that glows blue in the dark.
All the other elements of the dial and unidirectional rotatable bezel, however, remain unchanged. These include the 60-minute graduation, and the triangular zero marker, which is visible in the dark thanks to a capsule containing the same luminescent material on the bezel; the simple geometric forms that make up the hour markers on the dial and enable instant and reliable reading to prevent any risk of confusion underwater; the crown symbol, Rolex logo, and the words “Oyster Perpetual” that remain printed in white below 12 o’clock; as well as the 4 lines of text appearing above 6 o’clock. The one new exception, however, is the tiny “Swiss Made” logo flourished with a small Rolex crown that appears on the minute track below the 6 o’clock index, this small detail (among others) mark the evolution of the new Submariner models. The first of which is the Submariner in Oystersteel (ref. 124060). It makes its debut with a black lacquer dial, and a rotatable bezel with matching Cerachrom insert, and is considered the “purest” Submariner of the range (price not withstanding). Not only is it the model that adheres the most to its aesthetic heritage, it also benefits from the fact that it has nary a date or Cyclops window to mar its perfectly symmetrical dial, a boon for the many who have an aversion to the Rolex Cyclops magnifier on the sapphire crystal. This is joined by a yellow Rolesor version of the Submariner Date (ref. 126613 LB), which
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combines Oystersteel and 18K yellow gold with a royal blue dial and a rotatable bezel with a blue Cerachrom insert. The two versions of the Submariner Date, the one in Oystersteel (ref. 126610 LV) and the other in 18K white gold (ref. 126619 LB) follow next, and come with Cerachrom inserts in the distinctive colors of green and blue, respectively, while being matched with a black lacquer dial. As before, the Rolex Submariner stays true to its original diver’s watch vocation by being water-resistant to 300 meters. Inside this new generation ticks the latest of the brand’s next generation of movements, which are at the forefront of watchmaking technology, and offer fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, as well as unparalleled convenience and reliability. Calibre 3230 for example was just launched this year and is fitted for the first time in any Rolex timepiece, replacing the out-going calibre 3130 in the no-date Submariner. Calibre 3235, on the other hand, powers all the variations of the new Submariner Date, and is an extension of the 3230-movement family. Both Calibres 3230 and 3235 boast Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, the escapement is insensitive to magnetic fields. The movements are also fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that, in case of shocks, makes
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C OV E R WAT C H ROLEX
SUBMARINER
it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring. This hairspring is also equipped with a Rolex overcoil, which ensures the movement’s regularity in any position. Further, the oscillator is fitted on Rolex designed and patented highperformance Paraflex shock absorbers, which increase the movements’ shock resistance. Both calibres are equipped with a self-winding module via a perpetual rotor. And thanks to their barrel architecture (as well as the escapement’s superior efficiency), the movements’ power reserve extends to approximately 70 hours. Last but not least is the tried and true Oyster bracelet, a three-piece link bracelet originally developed at the end of the 1930s. For 2020, it was widened by approximately 1mm to fit the increased lug width of this new generation of Submariner. It is equipped with the Rolex designed and patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening, as well as the Rolex Glidelock extension system, which was also designed and patented by the brand. This particularly inventive mechanism comprises a rack located under the clasp cover and a toothed sliding link that locks into the chosen notch. And with 10 notches of approximately 2 mm, the Rolex Glidelock allows
Calibres 3230
Calibres 3235
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the length of the bracelet to be adjusted easily, without tools up to some 20 mm. On the 18K white gold version of the Submariner Date, the Oyster bracelet includes ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity, while the yellow Rolesor version has center links in 18K yellow gold. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case. Unwaveringly traditional, and true to its heritage, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Submariner Date are certified with the Superlative Chronometer certification and come with an international five-year guarantee. Both models are single-minded in their resolve to remain true to their tool-watch profession, all while having the tenacity to become better at their ever-evolving purpose. Most significantly, they have successfully maintained the strict aesthetic and design codes that have made them the most successful tool watches in all of horological history, all while effectively bringing the Submariner story forward into the next decade. All those looking for a little bit of eccentricity and a little more flash of color need to look elsewhere.
Features October -December 2020
Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.
RM 72-01 Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph page 70
Feature
Patek Philippe
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The Cuff, Bold and Beautiful A watch envisioned for the modern woman Wo rd s b y
KATHERINE S. CUNANAN
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Feature
Patek Philippe
A WATCH BRAND WITH MORE THAN 180 YEARS OF HISTORY MUST BE DOING SOMETHING RIGHT.
With Patek Philippe, you know they definitely are. Founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and Jean Adrien Philippe, the brand has carried on through the years with excellence partnered with innovation. Sometimes a watch design is initially planned for the gentlemen, then an accompanying ‘prettier’ version is created for the ladies. Patek Philippe took a different route with the Twenty-4 though — it was catered specifically for the women. As the brand explains, “The aim was to meet the demands of the independent active woman who sought a timepiece with an assertive personality able to adapt to her modern lifestyle.” Originally launched in 1999, the collection has had different versions but each reference stays true to the initial aesthetic: timeless feminine elegance.
DEDICATED The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 has been revitalized for 2020 with a fresh interpretation of the “manchette” or cuff design. The cuff style, whether in a watch or a piece of jewelry, is not for the faint of heart. The cuff is a statement piece, bold and confident. And the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 is no different. The watch is meant for the dedicated woman who has goals, and is focused on achieving them through hard work and perseverance. There is no stopping this woman, and she needs a watch that can keep up with her.
ICONIC The original Patek Philippe Twenty-4 was an art-deco-inspired cuff, and the recent references keep that iconic style. The watch was also one of the first to pair stainless steel and diamonds, a look now often seen in other brands. Different metals have been used in various iterations of the Twenty-4 collection. The original in 1999 was in stainless steel, but there have been rose gold and white gold versions too. The dial has also been executed in various colors, such as brown and blue. One collection had different size models offered, and of course there was the Haute Joaillerie models too. The original Patek Philippe Twenty-4 was launched with the campaign tag line, “Who will you be in the next 24 hours?” With the realization that they can be anything they set their sights on, some may have replied with a challenge, Who can’t I be? The launch of the recent collection has a digital campaign with the theme, “Rituals of my Life.” Little steps taken by women each day
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that make the day their own, such as picking the right piece of jewelery for an outfit, sipping coffee watching the sunrise, or carving out me-time during the busy day. Moments become tradition and tradition is handed to the next generation. The first Twenty-4 collection models were automatic watches, but in 2018 they created a mechanical version, much to the delight of the ladies. The watch had external changes too, such as a round case, a double row of diamonds, and the applied Arabic numerals on the dial. This particular model is still available, either in steel or rose gold. The collection name says it all: Twenty-4. This watch is meant to accompany the lady throughout her day — and night — for a full 24 hours. Every woman takes on different roles each day. Mother or sister, leader at work, best friend and confidante. Each role needs a different strength,
but women are deft at handling the changes. And they need a watch to keep track of their precious time. Throughout the day (and night), the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 stays on the wrist. The latest references of the Patek Philippe Twenty-4 come in the medium size steel. The steel is clean and polished to an impressive shine. The steel bracelet has a fold-over clasp, and the combination of 1 large link and 2 smaller links is both an aesthetic choice and a comfort choice. A nice detail is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross as an added embellishment on the crown. Some loyal fans of the brand might wonder why the Roman numerals have been replaced by Arabic numerals at the 6 and 12 o’clock. The other hours now have applied baton-style markers. Don’t worry though, the diamonds on the bezel are still there — a row of Top Wesselton diamonds on each side of the rectangular case.
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The dials also receive a different treatment with either a blue sunburst (reference no. 4910/1200A001) or with a gray sunburst with gradation to black (reference no. 4910/1200A-010). The applied numerals and hour markers complement the sunburst design without obstructing anything. Powered by the quartz Caliber E 15, the movement has 57 parts. The Patek Philippe manufacture gives as much focus and fine workmanship to the quartz movement as it does the mechanical movements. The watch has the hour and minute functions, and really, that’s all you need. Both Patek Philippe Twenty-4 models are worth taking a closer look at. The blue sunburst model (reference no. 4910/1200A-001) is a personal favorite, but I can’t deny that the gray sunburst model (reference no. 4910/1200A-010) is also a beauty. So why not get both?
Feature Tudor
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In the Presence of Royalty Versatile and affordable for people who value quality. Words by
BERT E. CASAL
THE NAME “ROYAL� WAS FIRST USED BY TUDOR IN THE 1950S TO EMPHASISE THE SUPERIOR QUALITY OF ITS WATCHES. The TUDOR Royal range is part of this heritage in that it offers automatic sportchic watches with integrated bracelets that are as affordable as they are uncompromising. Cuttingedge technical performance and refined aesthetic are characteristic of this range, which sits at the crossroads between classic and sports watches. The new Royal watches come in stainless steel and is offered in 4 sizes with 9 possible dials. The TUDOR Royal range is a key example of this uncompromising heritage and promises its future owner nothing less than the best possible quality at the best possible price. It is the epitome of balance, elegance, and versatility. The details of its design give it a unique personality, especially on the notched bezel design that alternates surface polish and grooves.
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Feature Tudor
The case of the TUDOR Royal is created from a block of 316L stainless steel. It is waterproof to at least 100 meters due to its screw-down crown and case back. Although it cannot be seen, the movement inside is finely decorated and regulated according to the best chronometric standards of the industry. The dial and hands are crafted in Switzerland by the most meticulous watchmaking professionals in the field. And the five-link bracelet is distinguished by the quality of its design, manufacture, and finish. The combination of specifications are as follows: The Case Available in 41, 38, 34, or 28 mm 316L stainless steel with polished and satin finish. The Bezel Notched bezel in 316L steel or 18 ct yellow gold. The Winding Crown Screw down crown in 316L steel or 18 ct yellow gold. The Dial The colours available are black, silver, champagne-colour, or blue, all with a sunray finish, with or without diamonds. Also available is a gemset mother-of-pearl dial for the 34 and 28 mm variant only. The Bracelet Two variants are available: one in 316L stainless steel or a combination of 316L steel and 18 ct yellow gold.
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All watches are powered by a self-winding mechanical movement. The 41 mm watch carries the Calibre 2834. The 38 and 34 mm watches use the Calibre 2824, and the 28 mm piece houses the Calibre 2671. The functions of the movement include the centre hour, minute and seconds hands, semi-instantaneous date at 3 o’clock, semi-instantaneous day of the week at 12 o’clock (only for the 41 mm model), and stop seconds for precise time setting. They all beat at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, contain 25 jewels, and have a 38-hour power reserve. Although this watch does not belong to the Royal range, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” is another timepiece that also carries the tradition of TUDOR. With a history that dates back to 1954, TUDOR divers’ watches are waterproof to 100 meters. The line is affordable, robust, reliable, and precise, characteristics that divers value when exploring the open seas. In 1969, TUDOR introduced a divers’ watch with a blue dial and bezel. The other sports watches in the collection were soon attired in blue and was soon called “TUDOR Blue.” The new Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” watch keeps this tradition with its navy blue dial and bezel insert. This color also appears on the “soft touch” strap offered with this model, made from a synthetic, tactile material that resembles flannel. The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the very first watchmaking brands to offer it with
its products. The strap is woven in France on a 19th century Jacquard loom by the Julien Faure company in the St. Etienne region. The Manufacture Calibre MT5402 displays hour, minute and second functions. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satinbrushed with sand blasted details, and its bridges and manipulate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. The Manufacture Calibre MT5402 is chronometercertified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with a performance going beyond standards set by the testing institute. COSC allows for an average variation in the daily running rate of a watch movement between -4 and +6 seconds. TUDOR applies a tolerance of between -2 and +4 seconds variation
in its daily rate on the fully assembled watch. As an added bonus, this watch has a power reserve of 70 hours, enabling the owner to take off the watch on a Friday evening and put it on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” is waterproof to 200 meters. TUDOR is now offering a five-year guarantee on all its products sold after January 1, 2020. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered, or any maintenance checks, and is transferable. In addition, all TUDOR products bought between July 1, 2018 and December 31, 2019 will benefit from an 18-month extension to their guarantee. TUDOR recommends that its watches be serviced approximately every 10 years, depending on the model and real-life usage.
Feature
A. Lange & Sรถhne
For F. A.
For A. Lange & Sรถhne, the journey is the reward Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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NOT MANY PEOPLE ARE AWARE OF THE SIGNIFICANCE OF A. LANGE & SÖHNE’S 1815 COLLECTION. Not only is 1815 the year when the borders of the continent of Europe were redrawn at the Congress of Vienna, it is also the birth year of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the accepted founder and tireless proponent of German watchmaking who laid the foundations of Saxony’s precision watchmaking industry when he created his own manufactory in Glashütte in 1845. Yes, it can be argued that German watchmaking was born on February 18, 1815, the day Ferdinand Adolph Lange was born. Mayor of the city of Glashütte from 1848 to 1866 and
a member of the Saxon Parliament from 1857 until his death in 1875, Ferdinand A. Lange will be fondly remembered for being one of Saxony’s premier watchmakers and one of the main advocates of German watchmaking. He founded the Glashütte manufactory “Lange & Cie” on December 7, 1845, to produce precision pocket watches just a few days before his first son, Richard, was born. And even when it was “just” a teaching workshop with 15 apprentices, Ferdinand A. Lange was already known as a watchmaker beyond measure who united science and craftsmanship with modern production methods, the goal of which was to
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craft the world’s finest watches bar none. He also introduced the metric system to watchmaking and created novel measuring instruments and tools, all the while developing countless ingenious mechanisms and watchmaking solutions, many of which he registered for patents, such as the threequarter plate, the long established calling card of A. Lange & Söhne timepieces. Ferdinand A. Lange was also known to be an employer beyond measure initiating policies unheard of at the time including watch production based on the division of labor, and encouraging his employees to establish their own companies, a practice unheard of even today.
Feature
A. Lange & Söhne
The Manufactory was renamed the now iconic “A. Lange & Söhne” after Richard, and, later, younger brother Emil became coproprietors of their father’s company in 1868. With his sons, Ferdinand produced some of the best quality timepieces of the time, with the Manufactory’s pocket watches gaining the “1A” seal of approval. Even after his death at the age of 60 in 1875, the Manufactory continued his heritage of producing quality timepieces, which continued well under subsequent generations. It was only the Second World War that put a halt to all of it, as well as to the German precision watchmaking industry at large. Resulting in a 40-year interruption of the A. Lange & Söhne story, it took the re-unification of Germany and the courage of Walter Lange, greatgrandson of Ferdinand A. Lange, to resurrect the manufactory from its ashes. And on December 7, 1990, 145 years to the day after Ferdinand A. Lange’s pioneering act, Walter Lange founded the company for the second time. Today, the spirit of Ferdinand is alive and well, with A. Lange & Söhne producing some of the finest watches and timepieces in the world. Indeed, the Manufactory is considered to be at the top of the top echelons of high-end watchmaking. The 1815 collection by A. Lange & Söhne is meant to be a testimony to Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s brilliance. It is also an acknowledgment of the history and tradition passed down by him and his family. As a whole, the 1815 collection represents the mastery of Germany’s overall precision watchmaking industry in Glashütte, and is characterized by traditional German watchmaking elements, such as blued hands, Arabic numerals, and the railway-track minute scale. Indeed, the 1815 collection is a worthy ambassador of the master’s enduring watchmaking heritage. Which is why after 175 years of precision watchmaking, A. Lange & Söhne is once again turning to the 1815 collection to pay homage to the extraordinary man that started it all. Introducing three new limited edition models of the 1815 watch family with the appellation “Homage to F. A. Lange,” at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai last September, A. Lange & Söhne celebrates, not only the 175th anniversary of Saxony’s precision watchmaking industry, but also to the 30th anniversary of Walter Lange’s courage. Representing the classic side of A. Lange & Söhne, the 1815 watch family transports the spirit of pocket watches of yesteryear to the mechanical wristwatches of today. Indeed, the three unifying elements of the three new limited editions are the innovative case metals made of honey gold,
1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange”
a brand-exclusive alloy with significant scratch resistance over “regular” 18K gold; special movement decorations, which include granularly textured plates made of German silver and black rhodiumed engravings on the balance cock; and special dials designed especially for the 2020 anniversary edition “Homage to F. A. Lange,” all of which feature what is probably the most prominent feature of the 1815 family: the railwaytrack minute scale, an element that bridges the era of nascent rail travel (indeed, a time when pocket watches were at their most essential), and the time when Ferdinand Adolph Lange founded his company in Glashütte, to our modern time of German precision watchmaking. The 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” is the first A. Lange & Söhne timepiece of 2020 anniversary edition. It is a timelessly elegant two-hander only 38mm wide and a mere 6.3mm thin. A limited edition of only 175 timepieces, the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD
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“Homage to F. A. Lange” features an intricately hand-made enamel dial with Arabic numerals that not only emphasizes a design inspired by original Lange pocket watches, but also unites two features that signify F. A. Lange’s developments: perfection and clarity. Even the 167-piece manufacture Calibre L093.1 was modified for the “Homage to F. A. Lange,” 2020 anniversary edition. Especially executed to pay tribute to the style pioneered by Ferdinand A. Lange, the movement eschews the traditional Glashütte ribbing on the signature Lange threequarter plate, and instead boasts a granular surface inspired by his historic pocket watches. Further, the crown wheel and ratchet wheel are visibly integrated in the train bridge and decorated with circular graining. In the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”, the fine lines of the hand-engraved floral pattern on the balance cock are black rhodiumed, as are the inscriptions on the plate, the dark hue of which
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echoes the grey of the imprinted dial elements. Next up, is the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange,” the sixth rattrapante chronograph of the manufactory, and the only “new” watch of the trilogy. The second watch in the 2020 anniversary collection, the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange,” is even more limited with only 100 pieces available exclusively at A. Lange & Söhne boutiques, and is even more special because this is the first time Lange put the spotlight on the chronograph and rattrapante. Indeed, we’ve seen a Lange rattrapante combined with a perpetual calendar before, but this is the first time the classic timekeeping complications were allowed to take center stage. The complication allows the measurement of comparative and intermediate times thanks to the newly developed hand-wound L101.2 rattrapante movement, which relies on two column wheels
clearly visible through the sapphire caseback. Considered to be one of the most elaborate devices in modern precision watchmaking, the 365-part movement was extremely complex to design, manufacture, and calibrate, and takes over from the Calibre L101.1, which used to power the Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. Naturally, the artisanal finish of Calibre L101.2 is beyond reproach and recalls the historic pocket watches in the 1A quality category. These include the fine granular surfaces of the raised frame parts made of German silver; the straight graining on the upper sides of the moving parts of the chronograph; and the polished chamfers, a polishing technique particularly challenging given the many acute internal angles. Further, the free-hand engravings on the balance cock and bridges, as well as the engraved inscriptions are picked out in black rhodium.
1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange”
TURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange.”
The 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” is endowed with a 41.2mm case made in Lange’s proprietary alloy, and is paired for the first time with a black dial made of solid silver. This 2020 anniversary edition is also the only model in the trilogy to reference the 175-year anniversary of Saxon watchmaking with the words “GLASHÜTTE IN SACHSEN” highlighting the dial. Rounding out the trilogy is the most complex timepiece in the anniversary collection, the TURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange.” Limited to only 50 pieces, this third and final entry boasts five complications: a fusée-and-chain transmission, a tourbillon, chronograph with rattrapante function, and a perpetual calendar making the TURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD “Homage to F. A. Lange” the obvious flagship of the watchmaker’s homage to its founder. Originally released in 2017 in “Pour le Mérite” form, this anniversary edition appears here for the first time in a 43mm x 16.6mm case made in the manufacture’s proprietary alloy, a subtle golden hue that surprisingly complements the dark masculine grey of the black-rhodium dial. Indeed, the dial itself matches the complexity of the technical prowess it hides within and is composed of five separate pieces: the main dial surface, the three subdial registers, and the flange, requiring the work of two dial makers for every single dial. Driving all of this is the Calibre L133.1 movement, which is a masterpiece of peerless complexity. It is composed of 684 parts and is a paragon of classic precision watchmaking. Like the movements driving the other two editions of the anniversary collection, Calibre L133.1 has been modified to give tribute to its founder. This means the surfaces of the bridges and cocks have also been granularly textured and endowed with black-rhodiumed inscriptions; the filigreed lines of the manually engraved chronograph bridge also black rhodiumed; and the tourbillon bridge receiving its own special treatment with black polish, a time consuming finish that demanded the utmost dexterity from the finissage specialists. These three limited editions were created to pay tribute to the man that started Germany’s precision watchmaking industry, and as evidenced from the combination of style, subtlety, and technical prowess of the 1815 THIN HONEYGOLD, the 1815 RATTRAPANTE HONEYGOLD, and the TURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL HONEYGOLD, all of which bear the appellation “Homage to F. A. Lange,” it would seem the future of that industry is most definitely assured.
Feature
Roger Dubuis
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SUPERBIA Roger Dubuis explores hedonism with the epitome of excess Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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KAZ SHIRANE (MASAKAZU SHIRANE) IS AN INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED ARTIST WHO SPECIALIZES IN SPATIAL ART AND INTERIOR DESIGN. Trained as an architect, KAZ SHIRANE has worked in several architectural offices in Tokyo, London, Shanghai and, most recently, was the designer of choice for the Tokyo Tower Top Deck, a space honored with the “Interior design of the year” by The Architecture Master Prize 2018. “I create interactive spaces that focuses on visitors,” says KAZ SHIRANE. “Whenever the space user enters a room filled with mirrors, there will be interaction – a reflection in mirrors — and the user can become the co-creator of this space. This mirrored space is designed to serve as a receiver and amplifier of the user’s will. The space literally reflects the mind of the visitor, enabling him/her to become an artist. The only rule imposed on visitors in my installation is to enjoy the space as freely as they want.” Known for this type of crystalline-inspired, fractal-derived installation, KAZ SHIRANE’s work has been exhibited in various locations around the world including the USA, China, Russia, Australia, Hong Kong, Singapore, UAE, Bahrain, and Japan. Most importantly, KAZ
SHIRANE has collaborated with prestigious brands such as Rolls-Royce, Tiffany & Co., Sony, Capital One, Tik Tok and K-Player to create astonishing bespoke installations. And, oh yes, he has also recently lent his crystalline-inspired sensibilities to watchmaker Roger Dubuis. The watchmaker from Geneva is most probably the most “excessive” watchmaker in Swiss watchmaking. Indeed, Roger Dubuis has consistently gone against the mainstream grain of the industry. Even the Poinçon de Genève, that exclusive seal of quality that certifies the decoration and hand finishing of movements made in the Canton of Geneva, is merely used as a “jumping-off point” by the brand and uses the exclusive Geneva Seal as its base, the “foundation” from which to build their vision. Indeed, the brand that dares to be different is known to put technique at the service of aesthetics, resulting in timepieces known throughout the industry as extensions of Roger Dubuis’ own mindset, a “duality” that allows the unfettered exploration of new “territories.” Powered by the obsessive quest for freedom, pleasure, and hedonism, Roger Dubuis timepieces
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are big, brash, unquestionably expensive, and unapologetically self-indulgent (albeit in the best possible way), all while respecting the tenets of traditional horlogerie. The challenge then is not to combine traditional watchmaking with modernity, but to find the right people (including clients) who understand the brand’s vision of hyper horlogerie. No wonder then that Roger Dubuis chose the Watches & Wonders Shanghai event last September to showcase their latest hyper timepiece. Unabashedly guilty of the most serious of the seven deadly sins: Pride (which translates to Latin as SUPERBIA), Roger Dubuis presented the Excalibur Superbia, the watchmaker’s latest piéce unique, a one-of-a-kind ultra-exclusive hyper watch designed as, “A contemporary epitome of extravagance guaranteed to send the senses of the most hardened hyper watch aficionado into overdrive.” Described as, “The ultimate totem for a tribe of people who trust that life is but a game that is for making the most of,” the ultra-exclusive Excalibur Superbia, is designed especially for an ultra-exclusive niche market, and it does so by channeling KAZ SHIRANE’s fractal-derived designs. “Roger Dubuis and I share the same vision,” says the artist. “We create incredible pieces that make people feel they are the protagonists. For me, the Roger Dubuis Superbia watch is like a time machine that can take us to an extraordinary world in an instant. I always want to create such space in my artworks. The elaborate craftsmanship is, of course, absolutely wonderful. But beyond that, what struck me the most is that it is a very artistic piece: its distinctive design catches the light so beautifully and can be noticed even from afar.” Setting a new standard for the Maison’s particular brand of pride and excess, the Excalibur Superbia is crafted in 45mm palladium-enriched white gold, the perfect size and alloy combination to house an updated version of Roger Dubuis’ iconic signature calibre. That’s right, a brand-new DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON movement, the RD108SQ, is inspired by its legendary forebear launched in 2005, which was the first doubleregulator calibre connected with a differential. This new version is built up in volume and adorned with a diamond-set star, which, believe it or not, isn’t even the point of the watch. Indeed, we’ve seen gem-encrusted watches before. And we’ve seen multiple baguette-shaped rocks literally overflow from every nook and cranny of many timepieces before. But as we’ve already mentioned Roger Dubuis is no ordinary watchmaker. An expert at out-of-the-box, overthe-top hyper-horology, Roger Dubuis knows all too well that the devil is in the details, and acts
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accordingly. With the Excalibur Superbia, Roger Dubuis once again reinvents the game like no one has played it before. Setting it firmly within the hallowed halls of world premiers, the excessiveness of the Excalibur Superbia comes neither from its alloy nor its number of stones (although 600 white diamonds and blue sapphires totaling 11 carats is really quite a staggering number). What truly sets the Superbia apart from lesser diamond encrusted watches is that every diamond set on the flange, bezel, case and crown of the Excalibur Superbia is, wait for it… shaped like a tetrahedron, the extreme thinness of which greatly increased the risk of grain breaking making its cutting and shaping a nightmare for the jewelers and artisans assigned to handle it. And as if the shape wasn’t problematic enough, Roger Dubuis opted to assemble each stone utilizing the much-dreaded “invisible setting.” Widely known in the jewelry industry as the most difficult of all settings, invisible setting in this case (pun intended) is made even closer to impossible because of the curved surfaces of the flange, bezel, and case. This means the master craftsmen
at the Maison’s Geneva Manufacture had to create a backbone structure to hold each stone from the back so as to avoid any material between the stones themselves. The result is an extremely seamless and complex geometric pattern courtesy of KAZ SHIRANE that no jeweler or watchmaker has ever attempted before. Certainly a worldfirst, no other watchmaker has ever been crazy or ambitious enough to attempt this…and on such a masculine watch, no less. And that’s not even the half of it. Not only did the artist insist that the 11-carats worth of stones be tetrahedron-shaped, the pattern necessitated that all 238 stones featured in the case of the Excalibur Superbia had to be cut and shaped individually making each diamond unique (meaning: not a one of them is identical). Adding insult to injury, the design also demanded that the long-suffering craftsmen of the Manufacture would at times have to deal with the points of six or seven stones meeting simultaneously in the same spot. And that’s not all. We haven’t even mentioned the grooving. The final step to complete an invisible setting is called “grooving,” a step made even more difficult
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when working with tetrahedron-shaped stones so much so that it took each gem setter an average of 30 minutes to do a single groove, corresponding to 900 hours for this operation alone on all three sides of the 600 diamonds, plus 420 hours to set the case and bezel – and that’s without even counting the stone-cutting! The entire process takes about three times longer than the same case set with baguette-cut stones. And just for good measure, this already painstaking, groundbreaking process has been entirely achieved on the curved surfaces of the Excalibur Superbia, reaching the very pinnacle of complexity Roger Dubuis-style. “I was honored that my work inspired the design of their new watch. It proves that art has many facets and can open up to new possibilities,” said KAZ SHIRANE. “I admire Roger Dubuis as it pours its heart into making its products; the importance it attaches to quality as well as its attention to details are visible in every aspect. I am looking forward to exploring this collaboration further. My role will be to express the Roger Dubuis philosophy and enable customers to experience its one-of-a-kind world through my art.” What ever will they come up with next?
Feature
Greubel Forsey
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Curved Space Greubel Forsey creates a sports watch as only they can Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature
Greubel Forsey
WATCHMAKER/INVENTORS ROBERT GREUBEL AND STEPHEN FORSEY’S RAISON D’ÊTRE IS TO CREATE INNOVATIVE HOROLOGICAL MECHANISMS IN THE UNENDING PURSUIT OF ACHIEVING ULTIMATE CHRONOMETRIC PRECISION. Indeed, the tourbillon, and what they have accomplished with the “lowly” escapement, has become synonymous with their name. But back in 2016, the watchmaker/inventors switched gears to give us the Balancier, a limited edition model, which like the rest of Greubel Forsey’s “Fundamental Inventions,” was part of the watchmaker/inventor’s efforts to bring the “fundamentals” of watchmaking to the fore. This is why the Balancier was equipped with, not a tourbillon, but an exclusively designed balance wheel distinguished by its large 12.6mm diameter. According to Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey this, not only heightened timekeeping stability, it, in fact, ensured it. It was fitted with six gold mean-time screws, which were recessed to reduce air friction and guarantee optimal aerodynamics (yes, they’re serious about that). This not only produced enhanced chronometric performance, but it also facilitated adjustment by the watchmaker. Last year saw Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey bring their exclusive balance wheel back to the fore with the Balancier Contemporain, a
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more practical and moderately sized version of the much larger Balancier. But that’s not all. 2019 also saw the watchmaker/inventors update their popular GMT model with the highly distinct and visually arresting GMT Sport, and we mean highly distinct because it was the first “sport” model from Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. Not only was it water resistant to 100 meters but it also came with integrated lugs, a rubber crown, rubber inserts, a purpose-designed rubber strap, and a highly unusual titanium case with a rubberized middle case... and that’s where things got visually arresting. Looking like any normal round watch when viewed straight on or from above, things changed radically when the GMT Sport was viewed from any other angle with its arched, ovoid shape suddenly revealed (one imagines a potato chip). And along with its large curved sapphire crystal, the case in its entirety was designed to mimic the curve of the human wrist and to ensure a snug and comfortable fit. Indeed, this new type of “sporting” case proved to be so distinct, and so popular that Greubel Forsey has brought it back for 2020 and best of all, they’ve brought their exclusively designed balance wheel along with it. The new Greubel Forsey Balancier S continues with the watchmaker/inventors foray
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into the “sporting” category and dare we say the Balancier S is much more sporting than the GMT Sport. First off, the new watch eschews the bulbous globe, and replaces the delicate tourbillon with their exclusively designed balance wheel. But they’ve done this in typical Greubel Forsey fashion. As before, the 12.6mm balance wheel isn’t housed within a tourbillon, but its large size is designed with highly precise chronometry in mind all the same. But that isn’t what makes the large balance wheel distinct, in a surprising display of contrasts, the flowing curves of the Balancier S’ case is highly juxtaposed with the severe angles of the grainy silver-toned dial, the centerpiece of which is the balance wheel inclined by 30°. As before, the large 12.6mm balance wheel is based on the same unveiled in 2016, its diameter ensures excellent timekeeping performance, and to allow fine timekeeping adjustment at the moment of inertia, its rim is fitted with six gold regulating screws inset to limit air friction. It is angled here at a 30° inclination for the first time to limit the timing errors due to the effects of gravity on the regulating organ (balance wheel, spring and escapement) in stable positions. And oscillating at 21,600 vibrations/hour, this combination provides excellent chronometric performance. Typical of Greubel Forsey, the geometrical solutions to allow for the 30° inclination of the balance wheel is on full display on the dial of the Balancier S. Halved into two sections: the larger upper section is dominated by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding curved, openworked central hour and minute hands, as well as, two coaxial barrels mounted in series at 11 o’clock. This not only provides the 308part movement with 72 hours of chronometric power reserve (as indicated by the power reserve monitor at 2 o’clock), but is also the first of three areas that showcases the fine engraving of Greubel Forsey’s key values. The smaller, bottom half, on the other hand is where the sheer plane is located, the surface of which sits at a 30° angle from the rest of the dial. It showcases the exposed balance at 6 o’clock, along with the small gauge-like sub seconds that sits right beside it, all the more accentuating the depth and relief of the movement. Just like the GMT before it, the sporty titanium case is water resistant to 100 meters and is distinguished by its circular and unique arched ovoid shape. It features integrated lugs, a rubberized middle case, and a satin finished bezel, which is great because its robust design looks like something Richard Mille would come
up with. And while this genuinely bolsters the “sporting” aspect Greubel Forsey is so obviously trying to cultivate, the Balancier S is still a Greubel Forsey timepiece, and for better or for worse this meant the watchmaker/inventors made sure to incorporate a healthy dollop of their brand’s DNA. Thus, the prominent satin finished bezel is still the main area to showcase Greubel Forsey’s key values. Better because the work that went into the fine engraving of the values is top-notch, but worse because many will find the words like “PERFECTION,” “SAVOIR-FAIRE,” and “TECHNICITE” that dominate the bezel a tad self-indulgent. As we’ve mentioned they’ve done this sort of thing before although probably never this overtly. Naturally, the technical and architectural innovation that is the Greubel Forsey Balancier S is
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accomplished with the same unconditional care and craftsmanship that mark the best of Greubel Forsey offerings, which are imbued upon every single component whether seen or unseen. This artisanal expertise includes frosting, circular and straight graining, and polished bevels and countersinks. Indeed, the use of titanium for the mainplate and bridges proved much more difficult for manual hand-finishing than steel or even nickel silver making this piece a technical and aesthetic showcase. Finally, the Greubel Forsey Balancier S is matched with a flexible and resistant black rubber strap, which is purpose–designed to be the third area to include the same Greubel Forsey key values on its inner side as the bezel and twin coaxial barrel. It is fastened with a titanium deployant clasp to complete this sporty, futuristic package.
Feature IWC
Engineered for the Best of the Best These watches are dedicated to the legendary Navy Fighter Weapons School program. Wo rds by
BERT E. CASAL
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Feature IWC
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN MANUFACTURED ITS FIRST PILOT’S WATCH MORE THAN 80 YEARS AGO. Since
then, the Swiss watchmaking specialist has accumulated extensive knowledge in designing and engineering instrument watches that are tailored to the needs of aviators. Fighter pilots are subjected to extreme g-forces that ordinary human beings cannot endure. They perform tight turns and manoeuvres at incredibly high speeds on board supersonic jets like the F/A-18E/F Super Hornet. Maximum forces are exerted on the aircraft and anything else in it. These forces take a toll on both man, machine and instruments in the cockpit. A pilot’s wristwatch is no exception. This is why TOP GUN watches are engineered from highly robust and resilient materials such as titanium and ceramics to withstand the extreme strain fighter jet pilots go through while on a mission. In 2018, IWC created the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” in collaboration with instructors
based on Naval Air Station Lemoore in California. It featured a case made of black ceramic and the iconic TOP GUN patch on the dial, exclusive for graduates of the Navy Fighter Weapons School. This year, IWC releases the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “STFI,” limited to 1500 pieces. It follows the tradition of the brand’s TOP GUN watches, made with extraordinary robust materials, such as titanium and ceramics, to withstand the extreme strain that pilots endure. The large 44-millimeter case is made of black zirconium oxide ceramic. Ceramic ranks among the hardest substances on earth. It is extremely scratch-resistant, and its stealthy black color is totally anti-reflective. This is an important quality, as sunlight reflecting off a watch may distract a pilot from operating the aircraft, especially during combat manoeuvres. The source materials are polycrystalline powders, which are mixed with several auxiliary materials to a homogenous mass,
shaped and finally sintered at high temperatures in an oven. With a Vickers rating second only to diamonds, ceramic is ranked as one of the hardest materials in the world. Because of its lightness, hardness, and scratch-resistance, the material is ideal for everyday use in the small confines of a jet cockpit. The case back and the chronograph pushers are made of Ceratanium®, a recent innovation from IWC’s materials engineers. This groundbreaking new material is based on a special titanium alloy. After the components of the case are milled, turned and drilled, they are heated in an oven. During this furnace process, oxygen diffuses into the material, and a phase transition occurs, with the surface then assuming properties which are similar to ceramic. Ceratanium® is both light and robust like titanium and also hard and scratch-resistant like ceramic. Unlike more conventional coatings, the surface is inseparably bonded with the material and cannot flake off if the watch gets into contact against other objects.
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Currently, IWC’s TOP GUN collection includes the
China Lake, the largest land area of the US Navy.
04 | Pilot’s Watch Automatic TOP GUN
following models:
The color tone also perfectly matches some of the
(Ref. IW326901)
flight suits worn by the TOP GUN adversary pilots.
This three-hand watch with matte black zirconium
01 | Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN
It is the result of a combination of zirconium oxide
oxide ceramic case boasts a unique minimalist
Ceratanium (Ref. IW371815)
with other metallic oxides. This chronograph is
design. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured
The first IWC pilot’s watch made of Ceratanium®
driven by the IWC-maniufactured 69380 calibre.
32110 calibre, a robust automatic movement with
features a black dial, black hands, and a black
a high power reserve of 72 hours.
rubber strap. The dial and the hands are coated
03 | Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN
using grey luminescent material, which is why
(Ref. IW389101)
the watch has a distinctive monochrome look
The case of this chronograph is made of matte
during the day but still offers full luminescent
black zirconium oxide ceramic. Engineering
functionality at night. The 79420 calibre drives the
ceramics with similar properties are also used for
double chronograph function with a spilt seconds
capacitors, in aircraft or rocket engines, and for
mechanism, making it possible to measure two
various components of high-performance engines.
short time intervals simultaneously.
The IWC-manufactured 69380 calibre ensures the accurate display and measurement of time.
02 | Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Mojave Desert” (Ref. IW389103) The first IWC pilot’s watch in a sand-coloured ceramic case was inspired by the Mojave Desert, which is home to the Naval Air Weapons Station
All models are equipped with proven IWC technology for aviator watches. The movement is enclosed in an inner cage made of highly conductive soft iron alloy. This cage surrounds the and protects the movement from magnetic fields with a strength of up to 80,000 amperes per hour. Another feature is the specially secured front glass. It cannot detach from its place even if there is a sudden drop in cabin pressure in the cockpit. Note: IWC sources materials responsibly and takes action to minimise its impact on the environment, creating intrinsically sustainable timepieces that are built to last for generations.
01
02
03
04
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Feature Panerai
PANERISTI Panerai introduces a limited edition that the brand-faithful will absolutely die for Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature Panerai
IN CASE IT ISN’T IMMEDIATELY OBVIOUS, the term “Paneristi” refers to the Panerai-faithful, die-hard fans of the Italian-founded, Swissrun watchmaker that make watches with their trademark “Panerai” design, a distinctive and striking aesthetic that the watchmaker has parlayed to great success. Apparently, the question of, "what should Panerai enthusiasts be called," was raised decades ago on the TimeZone bulletin board. And while the initial suggestion, "The Panerai Brotherhood," sounded fairly apt, a lot of people felt this name brought forth images of spooky guys in white cloaks. Thus, it was suggested that since Ferrari enthusiasts in Italy were called "Ferraristi", why not call the Panerai-faithful "Paneristi"? And the name for the Panerai-faithful was born just as the brand was returning to prominence in the watch world. Even better, the Paneristi cemented their love of the brand with an online forum appropriately named Paneristi.com. Indeed, Paneristi.com has since become one of the (if not THE) foremost website and forum of all things Panerai. According to Paneristi.
com, “This site is intended to be a central repository for Panerai information, news and opinion.” So who cares if the site isn’t officially sanctioned by the watchmaker? Again, according to Paneristi. com, “While Officine Panerai are aware of the site, this site does not have any official sanction from the manufacturer,” making the site the self-proclaimed “Unofficial Resource of Officine Panerai.” Wholly appreciative of this fan-based creation, the Italian-founded and Swiss-run watchmaker has created a special Panerai Radiomir as a tribute to the website’s 20th anniversary celebrations. And Panerai invited the Paneristi to help design it. The Panerai Paneristi PAM02020 “VENTI” (Italian for twenty) is the result of “an intense creative process,” and the close collaboration between the Laboratorio di Idee, Panerai’s technical and creative team, and the Paneristi. It is both timepiece and tribute, and it celebrates a group of loyal connoisseurs and admirers, as evidenced by its classic Radiomir design, its multiple aged details, and (best of all) the Paneristi’s chosen insignia engraved on both the VENTI’s dial and caseback.
“It’s a very forward thinking and modern move for a luxury company,” says Ilaria Alber-Glanstaetten, chief executive at luxury consultancy Provenance. “We’ve heard of crowd sourcing (or consumerdesigned collections) among mass fashion brands but for a luxury brand to consult its audience is new.” “It’s a real acknowledgment of the important relationship between the company and the consumer and will only serve to build on the sense of loyalty and community among Panerai’s followers. The Paneristi are a highly authentic group. If you look at the site, it almost seems homemade. This is a group that genuinely loves the brand.” True, this isn’t the first collaboration watch created by the brand for the Paneristi; previous Luminor models for both the 10th and 15th anniversaries of paneristi.com get that honor. This particular Radiomir, however, does stand out by featuring very specific design choices that mark decidedly vintage design cues. And while that isn’t necessarily ground breaking for the patently vintage-leaning brand (it does pay homage to 1930s Panerai watches in general), the Panerai Paneristi PAM02020 “VENTI” does specifically pay tribute to the first Radiomir ever produced,
the enduring appeal of which has survived for almost a century. And one of the first “requests” the Paneristi made for “their” watch was a steel case with an aged patina effect. The watchmaker naturally obliged resulting in a relatively discreet but handsome 45mm AISI 316L steel case that is set off by an equally matte finished bezel with an “almost weathered” patina. A crown formed in the classic diamond shape adds the finishing touch. Best of all, the 100-meter water-resistant case features the beloved wire lugs of Radiomirs of old making the 45mm VENTI look (and feel) far more compact than it actually is. And did we mention the word “VENTI” engraved between the lugs at 6 o’clock? Obviously, this is meant to further pay tribute to the Paneristi.com community. The caseback, on the other hand, also follows that line of thinking and is also engraved for the occasion with the words, “20th Anniversary PANERISTI.COM,” an engraving echoed on the dial. Which brings us to… The sunray-brushed chocolate brown color of the patented sandwich dial, something also new to this PAM02020. The finish simulates the effects of time seen on many original models, which here, adds to the appeal of the VENTI. Indeed, the amazing light effects and elegant reflections created by the ambient light plays off the excellent sunburst finish, making it the perfect compliment for the “almost weathered” patina of the matte steel case. Other specifications include gold colored sword-shaped hands that further pay tribute to the brand’s earliest models. While a model-specific engraving of the words “PANERISTI.COM 2000-2020” is found at 6 o’clock on the dial, yet another nod to the brand’s most loyal of followers. Driving the timepiece and tribute is the Calibre P.6000, entirely conceived, designed and developed by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. This simple but robust hand-wound movement is equipped with a device that stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out, and is known for its stability thanks to a bridge with dual supports. The in-house movement runs at a frequency of 3Hz, and stores up to 72 hours of power reserve via its single barrel. Finally, the Panerai Paneristi PAM02020 “VENTI” is matched with a beige calfskin suede strap with tone-on-tone stitching, and flourished with a hot-stamped “OP” logo. And in service of its vintage vocation, the VENTI is equipped with a trapezoidal steel pin buckle with an aged patina effect.
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Feature
Jaeger-LeCoultre
THE SOUND MAKER Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates its surprising musical legacy Wo rds by
KIT O. PAYUMO OUTSIDE OF THE HARDCORE WATCH ENTHUSIAST, NOT MANY PEOPLE ARE AWARE OF THE SURPRISING MUSICAL HISTORY OF THE WATCHMAKER FROM LE SANTIER, SWITZERLAND.
Even less people are aware that throughout its 180 or so history, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has developed more than 200 chiming watch calibres. That’s right, chiming watches have held a special significance for the Manufacture, and over the past 150 years have been a major presence in the Maison’s portfolio of complicated timepieces. Jaeger-LeCoultre has, in fact, mastered all forms of known chiming mechanisms, from the relatively simple alarm calibre to the most complex grande
sonnerie and Westminster chimes. Which is why, to correct this hitherto “overlooked” musical legacy from the Maison’s history, JLC is presenting curated landmark timepieces from its Heritage collection, pieces that trace the Manufacture’s love for chiming watches back to even before its establishment in 1833. The first known LeCoultre minute repeater made its debut in 1870, but Antoine LeCoultre’s love for mechanical chiming mechanisms started way before that. Before he turned to watchmaking, he and his father invented a new type of “keyboard” for mechanical music boxes. Cut from a single piece of metal and shaped like
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a peigne (that’s a comb to the rest of us), this “keyboard” improved the quality of sound so much, and prevented music boxes from detuning, that variations of this device have become standard for almost all music boxes. Indeed, one will find the LeCoultre ‘Peigne’ in some form or another in even the most modern music boxes today. Which is why Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Heritage Collection features an early example of a music box from the 1820s set in a finely decorated tortoise-shell box complete with an early LeCoultre ‘Peigne’ mechanism. By the time the 1860s came around, Atelier LeCoultre had gained a reputation for building
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Minute Repeater with Three
Jacquemart Pocket Watch
Hammers by LeCoultre (1880s)
by LeCoultre (1890s)
1914 Pocket watch with silent regulator, monopusher chronograph and minute repeater
1910 Minute Repeater Triple Complication
top-tier complicated watch movements, which incorporated calendars, chronographs, and chiming mechanisms. But it was in 1880 that saw the atelier parlay this reputation with the creation of a Minute Repeater with Three Hammers in the Calibre 19/20 RMS. Instead of the standard two hammers and gongs, Calibre 19/20 RMS featured a third hammer, which resulted in a unique melody thanks to its distinctive three-note chime for the quarters. The early 1890s saw the introduction of the Jacquemart Pocket Watch, which presented the Manufacture’s entry into automata. Very popular at the time, these so-called jacquemarts were human figures with articulated limbs set on the watch dial. And animated by the watch movement, the articulation of the whimsical jacquemarts
coincided with the striking of time thereby providing a visual representation of the chime. Another contribution of Jaeger-LeCoultre into the history of the striking watch was the patented invention of the silent strike governor, also known as the silent regulator. Making its debut in 1895, the governor eliminated the background “buzz” associated with early regulators. This produced a much clearer, and more audible chime. Indeed, different versions of the governor have since become industry standard in chiming watches as evidenced by the 1914 pocket watch powered by Calibre 19 IMCCV from the Heritage Collection, which couples a mono-pusher chronograph with a minute repeater. The early 20th century saw the Manufacture become masters of the triple complication watch
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movement, as well as masters of decorative crafts that provided the aesthetic quality that such complexity demanded. Thus, the world was treated to the Minute Repeater Triple Complication from 1910, as well as a Lépine-style pocket watch in 1928. The former’s LeCoultre Calibre 19/20IMCSQ brought together a minute repeater, a chronograph, and a perpetual calendar in a classic hunter-style case, while the latter’s LeCoultre Calibre 17JSMCCRVQ combined a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, and a chronograph. Indeed, this pocket watch was a real showcase for the Manufacture’s expertise in skeletonization, enameling and engraving. Practicality defined the middle of the 20th century with people demanding watches with more practical functions. This led to the creation of Memovox (Latin for ‘voice of the memory’), which incorporated a form of chiming calibre that utilized extremely rapid strikes from its hammer to produce a single-pitch sound more akin to a buzz rather than to the bell-like chime of a minute repeater. Not only has the Memovox become one of the Manufacture’s most popular models it has remained the reference for mechanical alarm watches for the past 70 years. The first Memovox watch was the classically understated Calibre 489 of 1950. Its classical time-only looking design belied the incorporation of the alarm as evidenced by a triangular pointer on a mobile central disc to indicate the alarm time on the dial. This, along with two crowns on the case side: one for winding and time setting, and the other for setting the alarm, indicated the true nature of this mechanical alarm model. 1956 saw the launch of the Manufacture’s first automatic alarm movement in Calibre 815 (which stemmed from the Manufacture’s first automatic wristwatch movement a decade earlier). The movement featured an oscillating weight fixed at the center of the movement, and while it was equipped with tiny shock-absorbing springs, two bumpers on each side limited its oscillation. Then in 1958, popular reception of the Memovox saw the introduction of the Memovox Calibre 814 with two variations: the Memovox International, which incorporated a 24-hour world time display for the international traveler; and the Memovox Parking, which was designed to help motorists avoid fines by buzzing before the allotted time on their parking meters expired. Not content to rest on its laurels, JLC responded to the rapid growth of leisure diving just a year later in 1959, as well as to the corresponding demand for purpose-built watches, by introducing the world’s first diving watch with
Feature
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The first Memovox (1950)
1958 Memovox International with 24-hour world time display
The extremely specific Memovox Parking
The world's first diving watch with a mechanical alarm: the Memovox Deep Sea
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an alarm: the Memovox Deep Sea (Cal. 815), a diver’s watch that enhanced underwater safety by not only providing an acoustic alert, but also vibrated to provide a tactile reminder of the elapsed diving time. Parlaying the popularity of the Deep Sea, JLC introduced the Memovox Polaris in 1963. This new diver’s watch was enhanced by a rotating inner bezel to provide a visual indication of the elapsed dive time, a super-compressor case with a triple layered caseback to amplify the alarm sound when submerged, and enhanced water-resistance all to way down to 200 meters. The Memovox Polaris was quickly updated in 1968 with the addition of a date display (Cal. 825). A new generation of high frequency movements by Jaeger-LeCoultre ushered in the Memovox Speedbeat with the Calibre 916 in 1970. The new movement featured a new automatic winding system with an oscillating weight that turned 360 degrees around its axis, and was more stable and accurate with a balance-wheel frequency increased to 28,800 VpH. A visually appealing watch due primarily to its rare blue dial, the Speedbeat is also one of the rarer JLC timepieces with the “JL” logo at 9 o’clock. This is how the Memovox remained until the Master Réveil was introduced twenty-four years later in 1994. It featured a new alarm mechanism, the hammer of which struck a gong rather than the case, which it had done since 1950. The result is the distinctive ‘school bell’ ring, which has remained the signature Memovox sound to this day. Which brings us to the main reason for this retrospective. To pay tribute to its 150 years of musical heritage, Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting
Memovox Polaris (1963)
1994's Master Réveil
Chiming pocket watch with Cathedral Gongs (1860s)
several new chiming watches, each of which pays homage to the sounds of nature of the Vallée de Joux and to its great legacy of chiming timepieces. The first of these watches are two versions of the Master Grande Tradition Cal. 945, which unites a minute repeater, a celestial vault, and an orbital flying tourbillon. Jaeger-LeCoultre then celebrates the two universes of Memovox: Classic and Diving with the Master Control Memovox Timer for the former, and the new Polaris Mariner Memovox for the latter. Alas, we don’t have room in this issue to go into detail with these new JLC timepieces. But don’t fret, we will feature each of these watches in future issues of Calibre, so stay tuned to these pages! It is their great history of chiming watches, however, that Jaeger-LeCoultre wishes to present
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1928's Lépine-style pocket watch, which combined a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, and a chronograph: a real showcase for the Manufacture’s expertise in skeletonization, enameling and engraving
as prologue today. Not only has it provided the Manufacture with a deep well of expertise, but it has also provided JLC with many avenues to parlay that know-how. In fact, the Manufacture supplied chiming movements to many of the most exalted names in Swiss watchmaking for over 150 years, an exercise that only began to taper-off around the middle of the 20th century. Throughout its history, In fact, the Manufacture’s constant quest to improve both timekeeping accuracy and sound quality has resulted in multiple patents and countless innovations. And with the Maison’s adherence to its own strict quality controls, such as the demanding 1,000 Hours Test, this is a practice that Jaeger-LeCoultre will undoubtedly continue for the years and decades to come.
Feature
Richard Mille
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The Rhythm Section Richard Mille confirms that the rhythm does eventually get you Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
Feature
Richard Mille
WITHIN IS A RATHER DREAMY TWO-MINUTE SHORT FILM CREATED BY FRENCH BALLET DANCER AND CHOREOGRAPHER BENJAMIN MILLEPIED, AND FRENCH COMPOSER THOMAS ROUSSEL. Set in the desert environment of the Joshua Tree National Park, WITHIN stars dancers Nayomi Van Brunt and David Adrian Freeland, Jr. as they perform a pas-de-deux (a dance duet between two dancers in ballet) in the middle of the harsh but beautiful landscape, and is designed to draw the viewer into the dancers’ raw human energy as the choreography and music draws the viewer in time to the rhythm of Richard Mille’s newest creation: the completely in-house made RM 7201 Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph. That’s right, WITHIN is a handsomely photographed free-form ballet movie about the first ever in-house flyback chronograph created by French watchmaker, Richard Mille (If there was ever a time to log on to YouTube, this would be it). A beautiful and moving ballet exhibition combining gorgeous cinematography, energetic choreography, and mesmerizing music, it almost doesn’t matter that the RM 72-01 is almost never shown. Seen only in fleeting glances on the wrists of the two dancers, the timepiece practically plays second fiddle to every other element in the film, all while being entirely about it. And that’s because WITHIN is not about the RM 72-01 itself but its chronometric rhythm. Chosen to reinterpret Richard Mille’s newest creation into their own respective visions, both choreographer and composer tapped into the wealth of heritage and tradition of their respective arts to create their two-minute masterpiece. Already known for their singular works that powerfully combine the essence of their disciplines with modern and contemporary sensibilities, it wasn’t a stretch for Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel to blend science and emotion and fashion Richard Mille’s RM 72-01 Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph into a moving picture of dance and music. Even the Joshua Tree National Park was carefully chosen to showcase the watchmaker’s intentions. This haunting and mysterious area, where humanity appears to reconnect with its origins, became the perfect setting in which to locate their vision. After all, not only is the stark environment rich in the very minerals Richard Mille employs for its watches, the stark desert area pulses with a chronometric vitality of its own, and was a true source of inspiration for Thomas Roussel. After sampling the watch’s chronometric function, the composer built a tempo around it, a musical composition anchored in the raw energy
and abandon of the dancers, and realized it via the fifty musicians of the prestigious London Symphony Orchestra in the studio at St. Luke’s church in London. And this all has to do with the first ever flyback chronograph movement entirely imagined, manufactured, and assembled at Richard Mille’s manufactory at Les Breuleux. For the longest time Richard Mille has followed a similar model as that of the very Formula 1 cars that have influenced both the design and material choices of their watches: by not making every watch component “in-house.” Indeed, many F1 teams source their engines and components from different suppliers of choice. So has Richard Mille sourced case and even entire movements from partners that meet the French watchmaker’s required performance and aesthetic standards. And to be fair, Richard Mille always had Vaucher and the indomitable Audemars Piguet
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Renaud & Papi to rely on for their movements. And while Richard Mille has successfully avoided the trap of thinking that the only way to measure true success is to have every single component made “in-house,” there really is a significant amount of prestige associated with having an in-house movement included in your oeuvre. Which is why, this year, RM has (finally?) produced its first in-house calibre, the CRMC1, a typically skeletonized flyback chronograph movement that rewrites the book on how to design a typical chronograph movement because of an all-new clutch system. The three most common chronograph clutch systems are the lateral clutch, the vertical clutch, and the tilting pinion system, all of which have their own characteristics and advantages. The CRMC-1 movement, however, eschews all of them in favor of a unique double oscillating
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pinion mechanism developed and patented by Richard Mille. This means the traditional column wheel is connected to two separate drive systems, in the form of two separate tilting pinions for the chronograph seconds and minutes. This draws energy directly from the mainspring barrel instead of routing the energy through the base movement. As a result, the chronograph has very little impact on the power reserve. “This pinion, which can enmesh or withdraw from the gear teeth, has been twinned (doubled),” explains Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements at Richard Mille. “There is now one for the minutes and another for the seconds, and is thinner than a vertical clutch, which would be hard to fit into the heart of the movement.” The selfwinding Calibre CRMC-1, thus, remains quite slim measuring at just 29.10mm x 31.25mm x 6.05mm. And equipped with 24hour and 60-minute counters at 5 and 2 o’clock respectively, it proves that a chronograph need not be limited to timing short periods only whilst
boasting a power reserve of 50 hours thanks to a skeletonized platinum rotor. Indeed, Richard Mille says the new RM 72-01 keeps time, “three beats to a measure” in a rhythm that emphasizes three numbers: three, eight, and eleven (which pivots quite nicely to the 2-minute short film by Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel). Three beats for the three counters that immediately capture the eye. “The hands dance in stylized harmony within their three respective timescales (blue for seconds, orange for minutes, green for hours), orchestrated by a six-column wheel.” These, by the way, are also the same numerals that appear on the dial of the RM 72-01: 3, 8, and 11, and that in the Bible, Genesis Chapter 3, and verses 8-11 are about God asking Adam and Eve if they ate the apple. Do with what you will with that little nugget of information. Otherwise, the RM 72-01 Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph looks for all intents and purposes like a typical Richard Mille timepiece. Signature tonneau-shaped case: check; prominent bezel
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screws with five-spline design: check; elaborate case construction: check; a case customconstructed for a movement mounted on elastomeric shock blocks: check; integrated case lugs: also check. In fact, to the casual observer the RM 72-01 Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph looks like almost every other wristwatch ever to leave the Richard Mille factory floors. And its all the better for it because even if the RM 72-01 doesn’t have the engineering of, say, RM’s own RM 27-02, with its elaborate cable suspension system, this newest Richard Mille timepiece looks almost identical to it, all while costing about a fifth of the more elaborate watch. The RM 72-01 Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph is available in four different combinations: in 5N red gold, in titanium and in black or white ceramic, and is a strikingly architectural watch offering true ease of use for every day; at least, whatever it is Richard Mille considers “everyday.”
Feature
Vacheron Constantin
VC shows some Louvre One-off Les Cabinotiers piece and ‘experience’ to go under the hammer Wo rd s b y
KAP MACEDA AGUILA
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN, ONE OF THE OLDEST WATCH MANUFACTURERS IN THE WORLD AND PARTNER OF THE LOUVRE SINCE 2019, is stepping up with a donation to the world-renowned museum in aid of its “solidarity projects.” The grant is in the form of a one-off, bespoke timepiece to be developed by the company’s Les Cabinotiers department, which is dedicated to crafting unique pieces and customizing existing models. Vacheron Constantin said that this team “possesses immense technical and manual expertise, a wealth of scientific knowledge and a profound curiosity for new ideas to be able to create highly-complicated watches on demand.” As part of its participation in the “Bid for the Louvre” online auction (on www.christies.com and with support from auction house Drouot) from December 1 to 15, 2020, the Swiss watchmaker founded in 1755 will donate all proceeds from the sale to the museum. The winning bidder, during “a private visit to the Louvre” accompanied by its “best expert,” will get to choose an artwork that Vacheron Constantin’s artisans will reproduce on the watch dial using a miniature painting or grisaille enamel technique. The purchaser will also visit the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin to determine
his or her preferred “personalization options” for the timepiece. The watch will get engraving on the case and officer caseback, a choice of strap (material, color, stitching, and marking) and other bespoke options. The company is touting the package as an “ultimate high-watchmaking and cultural bespoke experience,” with the final product being handed over to the client at the Louvre itself in the presence of the original chosen masterpiece. In a digital press conference, Vacheron Constantin officials said that the company makes “no more than half a dozen” timepieces a year using either of the techniques. Also known as the “Geneva technique” dating from the 18th century, miniature enamel “is reserved for the most experienced artisans mastering both pigments and fire.” A key skill to perfect the craft is ascertaining a color palette compliant with the original shades of the work, while remaining aware that numerous firings (20 to 25) in the kiln (with temperatures exceeding 800°C) may change the colors and brilliance. Meanwhile, grisaille enamel appeared even earlier (during the 1600s). This technique “consists of superimposing touches of a rare white enamel — called Limoges white — on a layer of
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dark enamel coating the gold dial base.” Each of these layers is also fired in a kiln, while keeping to pre-defined firing times to the “nearest second.” Crushed white vitreous enamel is mixed with water, turpentine, oil of lavender, or petroleum oil and rendered into a paste. It is then applied to a dark enamel ground (usually colored black or blue, but Vacheron Constantin has been known to use brown as well). The artisan applies more paint on the lighter areas; less goes on darker areas to let the background color “tone” the white enamel. The technique imbues a pseudo-relief effect on the artwork. The miniature enamel technique is said to be more appropriate for reproducing paintings, while the grisaille enamel is apt for sculpture replication onto the watch face. Powered by the Manufacture 2460 SC self-winding calibre, the timepiece may come in a platinum, pink gold or white gold case. A transparent caseback reveals a 22-carat gold oscillating weight openworked in the shape of Vacheron Constantin’s symbol, the Maltese cross, as well other parts that highlight the brand’s attention to minute details and finishing. Said Vacheron Constantin CEO Louis Ferla, “We are proud to be taking part, along other artists and maisons, in this exceptional auction organized by the Louvre and Christie's in support of the museum's solidarity projects. Our ongoing commitment to art and the transmission of savoir-faire — which has been expressed alongside the Louvre since the announcement of our partnership a year ago — takes on even greater significance within a global context that is troubled and challenging in more ways than one.” Continued the executive, “Putting up for auction a Les Cabinotiers timepiece based on a masterpiece, a one-of-a-kind model personalized in accordance with the acquirer’s wishes, symbolizes the identity of our Maison and its mission to promote the sharing of culture and emotions.” Vacheron Constantin is a proud patron of the Louvre, and has been involved in conservation efforts such as the restoration of the 18thcentury “La Création du Monde.” The clock was created at the request and expense of the French Governor of establishments in India, Joseph Francois Dupleix de Bacquencourt, and was presented in 1754 at King Louis XV’s court in Versailles. From there it was ferried to Pondicherry aboard the La Diane vessel. The timepiece will come with certificates of authenticity from Vacheron Constantin and the Louvre Museum certifying the reproduction of the artwork.
Feature
WHIRLWIND
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original honors the inventor of the flying tourbillon Words by
KIT O. PAYUMO 76 www.calibremagazine.com
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Feature
Glashütte Original
ANYONE WHO HAS BEEN FOLLOWING THIS MAGAZINE, OR WHO HAS AN INTEREST IN HOROLOGY SHOULD KNOW WHAT A TOURBILLION IS BY NOW. First created by Abraham-Louis Breguet to deter the effects of gravity, there are few mechanical complications that can match the intricate display of the escapement. But not everyone would be privy to the fact that traditionally made tourbillons or “classic” tourbillons are anchored (connected) on two sides: the top (usually by a bridge) and the bottom. A flying tourbillon, on the other hand, is bridge-free and is anchored only on one side: the bottom. This effectively doubles the sheer visual spectacle of the escapement because it looks, for intents and purposes, like it is floating unfettered in an open frame or “flying,” thus, earning the nickname “whirlwind.” First designed in 1920 in the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte by one of Germany’s most eminent watchmakers, the flying tourbillon is the brainchild of Alfred Helwig, a technical instructor at the famous training institute. In 1913 and at the age of 27, Helwig and his master class students developed particularly accurate timepieces featuring cantilevered tourbillons, which they called “rotary gear watches.” Starting in 1920, a series of these watches with flying tourbillons were developed under his direction, which were tested at the German Naval Observatory in Hamburg, the general testing center for precision clocks and watches, and achieved excellent results. Indeed, Alfred Helwig’s name may not be immediately recognizable as some of horology’s greatest inventors and influencers, but the technical instructor taught at the renowned watchmaking school for 41 years, and in that time trained more than 800 apprentice watchmakers. In fact, his contributions to horology are so significant his publications remain important reference works for horologists, watchmakers, and watch collectors today. Thus, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of one of the most sophisticated inventions in haute horlogerie, Glashütte Original is presenting the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition, a classic and elegant timepiece inspired by the historic models built by Helwig and his students at the German Watchmaking School at Glashütte. Better still, this splendid masterpiece is presented in a rose gold case, and is limited to only 25 pieces, every single one of which was assembled by the specialist watchmakers and restorers of Glashütte Original. And this is significant because since 2008, the historic building that once housed the German
Watchmaking School in Glashütte has been home to not only the German Watch Museum Glashütte, but also to the Historic Workshop of Glashütte Original, the staff of which specializes in the restoration and maintenance of valuable timepieces made in Glashütte. These are the same supremely competent specialists that completed the final assembly of the new limited edition. This means that, not only does this masterpiece bear the name of Alfred Helwig, but also in an appropriate turn of events, all 25 pieces were produced at the original site of his work as master watchmaker and teacher, and by the forebears who preserve and continue his work to this day. A fine example of elegance, sophistication, and exceptional craftsmanship, the new Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition features a 40mm 18K rose-gold case that takes its cues from Glashütte Original’s Senator series. Overall
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elegant and formal, the design is enhanced by an ornate onion-style crown like those you might find on classic pocket watches at 3 o’clock, as well as a polished bezel with a subtle stepped effect. The dial, on the other hand, is equally elegant and eye-catching. Indeed, Glashütte Original makes a big deal about how they create their own bespoke dials from their own dial manufactory in Pforzheim and the dial of the new Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition doesn’t disappoint. Its restraint can, however, be viewed as a detriment. Don’t get us wrong, we love the execution and are in complete agreement with the choices made here. But, having said that, the dial is so subtle it borders on being plain, and is so period correct it literally is the antithesis of many elaborate flying tourbillon dial designs today. Fashioned in solid gold and subsequently silver-plated by friction, the dial features a small seconds at 6 o’clock, a railroad chapter ring, rod
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index appliques, and filigree baton-style hour and minute hands in rose gold, all of which lend a traditional classicism to the watch and contribute to the understated look of the whole proceedings. And while this isn’t the first time the Saxon watchmaker created a limited edition dedicated to Alfred Helwig, the new Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition is the true connoisseur’s watch because while the former had Helwig’s flying tourbillon exposed in a large aperture at 6 o’clock, the latter’s claim to fame is literally what isn’t there: the tourbillon and its complete absence on the dial, the only indication of which is the word “TOURBILLON” tucked away in all its subtle glory within the small seconds subdial. In keeping with the historic models of the Helwig era, the sheer visual spectacle of the flying tourbillon is hidden from view and located at the rear of the watch, which is counterintuitive to many watchmaking practices today. To be fair, this may
be a deal breaker for the casual watch consumer, considering the very thing they’re shelling their hard earned cash for is “hidden.” But to the watchmaking community and for the hardcore enthusiast, who are aware of the significance of the escapement and its location in this case (pardon the pun), this is a selling point and a plus. And while the case and dial of the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition is elegantly single minded in its adherence to the minimalism of its historic precedents, the in-house Calibre 54-01 hand-wound flying tourbillon movement is quite the opposite, and is where the highly talented artisans were allowed to let loose. Boasting an impressing 100 hours of power reserve at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour, the in-house Calibre 54-01 is lavishly decorated in keeping with traditional German finishing. This includes a great number of polished steel parts, sunburst decoration on the spring barrel cover,
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as well as blued screws, screw-mounted gold chatons, and an abundance of Glashütte stripes on the three-quarter plate, all of which conspire to make this another exemplar of the Glashütte art of watchmaking. And shining bright at 6 o’clock is the calibre’s centerpiece: the cantilevered flying tourbillon, which is still an impressing feat of engineering 100 years later. And while the decision to follow historic precedence and locate it at the caseback may discourage others, this does nothing to diminish any of its luster for connoisseurs and the like. Finally, the conservatism of the new Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Limited Edition is punctuated by a Louisiana alligator leather strap in a warm mahogany brown enhanced by a rose-gold pin buckle rather than the more contemporary deployant clasp, which is yet another connection to Alfred Helwig and his classic timepieces from the 1920s.
Feature Omega
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50th Anniversary of the Speedmaster OMEGA launches its golden anniversary offering for the Speedmaster "Silver Snoopy Award" Words by
BERT E. CASAL WHEN THE APOLLO 13 MISSION LIFTED OFF ON APRIL 11, 1970, NOBODY ANTICIPATED THE DRAMA THAT WOULD UNFOLD IN THE HOURS TO COME.
Astronaut James Lovell and his crew were bound for the moon for the third-ever human lunar landing. With Lovell were Command Module Pilot Jack Swigert and Lunar Module Pilot Fred Haise. All of them were equipped with OMEGA’s Speedmaster Profesional chronograph as part of NASA’s official kit for all manned missions since 1965. Just two days after the launch, an oxygen tank exploded on board. It crippled the Service Module and placed the astronauts in a perilous situation. Needless to say that the lunar landing was out of the question. Their immediate mission was to get back home to earth safely. Lovell, Swigert, and Haise were commanded to get into the Lunar Module, which was not built to carry three people for extended periods
of time. The crew needed to conserve energy, shutting down practically all power, rendering all digital timers useless. They needed to conduct a series of fuel burns at specific periods for a precise length of time in order to enter the earth’s atmosphere safely. The OMEGA Speedmaster Professional chronograph was their only means of timing these events. With the watch’s accurate timing, the crew was able to perform the tasks, re-enter the earth’s atmosphere, and safely land in the ocean. For this, OMEGA received the coveted “Silver Snoopy Award” from the astronauts at NASA, recognising the brand’s unique contributions to space exploration. Snoopy has a special connection with NASA. It starts in the 1960s when Charles Schulz began creating comic strips depicting the lovable dog on the moon. These animations captured the hearts of the public, depicting America’s
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adventures into space, establishing Snoopy as a symbol of exploration. In 1968, NASA went on a search of a “face” for its safety programme, and Snoopy was the obvious choice. Not only does he represent a “watchdog,” but he also represented total mission success while keeping things light in serious situations. Snoopy became so beloved by NASA that they created a very presitgious prize in his name. Charles Schulz designed the famous beagle in a space suit, wearing his famous Flying Ace scarf. This year, 50 years later, a special timepiece has been created on the occasion’s honor. Combining the arts of animation and watchmaking, this incredible Snoopy tribute has taken the OMEGA Speedmaster to new realms of design. Snoopy plays a prominent role within the timepiece, first appearing as an embossed silver medallion on the blue sundial at 9 o’clock. Here, he is shown wearing his famous space suit, in the exact style of the silver pin that NASA astronauts give to award recipients. The dial is also in silver and laser-engraved with Ag925. It includes two more blue sub dials, as well as blue PVD angleshaped hour markers and hands. On the caseback, Snoopy has gone into orbit, thanks to his animated black and white Command and Service Module (CSM) on a magical hand. When the chronograph seconds hand is in use, Snoopy takes a trip around the mysterious far side of the moon, with the lunar surface being decorated on the sapphire crystal using a unique micro-structured metallisation. The Earth disc rotates once per minute in sync with the watch’s small seconds hand. Also seen on the back are engravings that include the date (1970) that OMEGA received the Silver Snoopy Award, as well as a tribute to the Apollo 13 mission of that same year. The OMEGA Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary watch is presented in a 42 mm stainless steel case. This timepiece is driven by the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. This ground-breaking movement has taken the legendary Moonwatch calibre to new standards of excellence, with anti-magnetic innovation, as well as Master Chronometr certification from the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). This wristwatch comes with OMEGA’s full 5-year warranty, and will not be a limited production. Proud owners will recieve the watch in its own Apollo 13 presentation box with a microfibre cleaning cloth, a brochure, and a magnifying glass to aide in perusing the fine details of the timepiece.
Feature Omega
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The Lovely Moonlight OMEGA captures the moon’s shine in the latest De Ville Trésor Wo rd s b y
KATHERINE S. CUNANAN THE OMEGA DE VILLE TRÉSOR WATCH HARDLY NEEDS AN INTRODUCTION. The feminine lines,
classic design elements, and clean aesthetic make it one of the most preferred ladies watches. The luxurious materials also add to the elegance and the sprinkle of diamonds certainly doesn’t hurt either. The latest model versions of the OMEGA De Ville Trésor watch come in two sizes: 36 mm or 39 mm. It really depends on which size sits better on your wrist. There are case options too, the classic stainless steel model, or the (more alluring) 18K Moonshine™ gold model. Stainless steel is a perennial favorite, because the clean metal is solidly classic on its own, but is also a good foil for more detailed models that have diamonds or other embellishments. But there is more glamorous option in the 18K Moonshine™ gold. This is a special alloy that is a gentler version of yellow gold, but not as muted as white gold. How did this color come about? Artisans drew inspiration from the moon — the gentle moon that sits in the dark sky at the end of the day. The light is not glaring or blinding, but instead it is tender and unassuming. Yellow gold was combined with palladium to create the gentle color. Palladium also helps
in preventing discoloration, which means your watch will be dazzling for a quite a while. The alloy has been seen in some men’s watches, such as the Speedmaster. And now it graces the ladies OMEGA De Ville Trésor. What makes the OMEGA De Ville Trésor watch even more alluring is the combination of the chosen metal and the diamonds. Each De Ville Trésor watch has 38 full-cut diamonds enhancing the sides of the case, the classic design from the previous Trésor models. The sweet swath of gemstones on each side of the case is beguiling and playful. The crown also has a single diamond in the center in the middle of the red ceramic OMEGA flower. The dial is worth a closer look too, because the sleek design of the dial and the timeless (no pun intended) Roman numerals is a stunning combination. There are different dial colors to choose from: white, lacquered PVD blue, opaline silvery, lacquered red, or brown — each with the classic Roman Numerals. I prefer the blue dial partnered with a blue strap, perhaps because the deep blue reminds me of the expanse of a dark night. The brown dial also has a brown strap, while the lighter dials seem to come with either a white or red strap.
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There is an added design element in the De Ville Trésor — the case back has special style element too, the metalized “Her Time” pattern. It’s a nice touch to have a ‘secret’ on the watch that only the wearer knows. She can choose whom to share this secret with. The De Ville Trésor watches are powered by the OMEGA Calibre 4061, a quartz movement (meaning battery powered). Each watch also comes with the OMEGA 5-year warranty.
Feature TAG Heuer
Carrera Redux (Seconde Partie) TAG Heuer continues its 160th anniversary celebrations by finding the true essence of the original Heuer Carrera Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature TAG Heuer
LAST ISSUE, WE TALKED ABOUT THE NEW AND REDESIGNED CARRERA CHRONOGRAPHS THAT TAG HEUER RELAUNCHED FOR THE SWISS LUXURY WATCHMAKER’S 160TH ANNIVERSARY, and how these new bold, robust, and overtly sporty Carrera chronographs continued the collection’s indelible racing vocation with a new “roadmap” for the race-bred chronograph. The good news is that relaunch was just the “first wave” of new and redesigned Carrera chronographs, and was part of the brand’s yearlong celebrations of TAG Heuer’s 160th anniversary. This included the launch of two limited edition anniversary pieces: the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver and Montreal Limited Editions, which were released earlier this year, as
well as a second wave of Carrera Chronographs that the Swiss watchmaker intended to launch late into the year. The better news is that we’ve reached the last quarter of 2020, and the second wave of new and redesigned Carrera Chronographs is here. And just like the first wave of sport 44mm Carrera Chronographs, this second wave is also part of the brand’s “evergreen” line up (read: regular production). But unlike that first batch of robust and sporty chronographs, this second batch of TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph models takes a decidedly more refined and luxurious route, and works very hard to strike that precarious sweet spot between refinement and intention.
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This is a racing bred chronograph after all, and one inspired by one of the most iconic racing chronographs ever created, so this second batch of “elegant” TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph models had its work cut out for it. As regular Calibre readers already know, Jack Heuer’s 1963 Carrera chronograph, with its overall minimalist approach, its clean and legible display, as well as the infamous Carrera Panamerican race that inspired its name, is a HUGE part of watchmaking history. And is so iconic it is considered by many professional drivers and sports car enthusiasts as the holy grail of sports chronographs. Which is why the same clean minimalistic lines, and wide open, and uncluttered dial of that first Heuer Carrera ref. 2447 is what directly inspired this second batch of 160th anniversary TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph models. Not even many enthusiasts know this, but former TAG Heuer CEO Jack Heuer’s primary vocation was industrial design, a discipline that heavily influenced the DNA of his most beloved collection and shaped the design and construction of the many models and collections that followed it. It is this same mindset that led to a clear and unambiguous view of the display that drove the design of this second batch of chronographs. Ironically, this second batch of chronographs actually doesn’t have to work as hard as the first wave of TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph models. And that has to do with its sophisticated and timeless style, as well as the small fact that its design was directly inspired by the iconic Heuer Carrera chronograph that started it all. In fact, these Carrera chronographs are so elegant and refined they make the first wave look almost brutish in comparison, making them the true heir to the Heuer Carrera. And that all has to do with its smaller 42mm diameter; its sleek stainless-steel bezel; the complete absence of a tachymeter scale; the applied indexes and minute track that follow the angle of the flange; the “azurage” subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock with a running small-seconds counter at 6 o’clock; the piston-style pushers; and the polished angular lugs; all of which directly evoke the overall aesthetics of the original 1963 silver-dial Heuer Carrera. Only the much larger crown gives this chronograph away as a more modern offering. It’s also worth noting that this more elegant Carrera chronograph features a much more discrete running seconds that forgoes with the traditional subdial housing, and is instead discretely flush with the dial and makes do with
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just three “indexes” at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock. This replaces the more prominent and obvious small seconds of the first batch of overtly sporty 44mm Carrera chronographs, and enhances this batch’s elegant and sophisticated orientation. But like that first batch, this second wave also comes in four versions with different dial colors. First up are the models with opaline black, and sunray brushed blue dials. These are matched with a streamlined H-shaped stainless-steel bracelet made thinner for improved comfort, the angles of the outer and inner links of which are rounded for a more fluid appearance. Next up are the third and fourth models, which are comprised of a bicolored version with a silver-cultured dial and rose-gold-plated hands and indexes; and the model with a very handsome deep anthracite dial, both models of which are paired with an elegant brown alligator leather
strap. Present on all, however, is a screw-down sapphire caseback, which provides a fascinating view of the innovative movement inside, made even more exclusive by its rose-gold-cultured oscillating mass. Speaking of which… The TAG Heuer Carrera line has always featured the most advanced watchmaking technology developed by the brand. These redesigned models are no exception and are powered by the excellent Calibre Heuer 02 movement, which made its first "regular" appearance driving the first batch of sporty Carrera chronographs. Visible through the transparent caseback, this performance-driven movement is entirely Swissmade in TAG Heuer’s Chevenez manufacture, and had been previously tapped to drive some of the brand’s more exclusive versions of the Carrera. It can once again be found today driving
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these four flagship, albeit regular-production models, with all its technical specs intact. That means this sophisticated in-house innovation is still comprised of 168 components, including a column wheel and a vertical clutch (indeed, signatures of improved chronograph timekeeping and high-quality manufacture movements), beats at 2,800 Vph, or 4Hz, and boasts a massive power reserve of up to 80 hours. Born on the racetrack yet equally at home at a formal evening event, these new TAG Heuer Carrera timepieces exude sheer elegance and make a striking statement in practically any situation. Not only do they serve as a tribute to the collection’s acclaimed roots, but they also demonstrate the brand’s expertise in seamlessly combining sophistication in design with the best of Swiss mechanical watchmaking.
Feature Oris
The River That Runs Through Seoul Oris heads to South Korea for clean-up operations.
Wo rds by
BERT E. CASAL
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Feature Oris
THE SWISS BRAND ORIS IS ON A CONTINUING MISSION TO BRING CHANGE FOR THE BETTER. This
mission is designed to help clean, protect, and restore the world’s source of life: water. Their next order of business takes them to the east, to South Korea’s second longest river, the Hangang River. Oris has a network of partnerships around the world with non-profit organisations that are working tirelessly to bring change. They have raised funds and awareness of issues that pose a real threat to the world’s water. They continue to look for partners and projects that they can support. They found that partner with the Korean Federation for Environmental Movements (KFEM) by issuing a watch that highlights the plight of the Hangang River. The Hangang River plays a vital role in Korea, as it supplies water to the 10 million inhabitants of the country’s capital, Seoul. But years of neglect
have left it dirty, polluted, and in desperate need of restoration. “With every passing year, we grow more passionate about our mission,” says Oris CoCEO Rolf Studer. “Conserving the world’s water is critical; it’s also possible if we work together. That’s the underlying message behind every piece we create with our partners.” As a new partner of Seoul KFEM, Oris will be supporting a series of clean-up days that is scheduled for later this year. During these cleanups, hundreds of local volunteers work along the river to pick up litter, plastic, and other harmful pollutants. The event also helps raise awareness of the importance of clean water in the city. Yun Han Cho of the Seoul KFEM explains the bold vision behind the Hangang clean-up project: “The Korea Federation for Environmental Movements is a non-governmental organisation (NGO) and a grass-roots environmental
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movement. Our values are ‘Life, Peace, Ecology, and Participation’. The Seoul branch of the KFEM opened in 1993.” “I produce campaigns that engage the community and get local people working together. We’re also running an educational project working with future generations; planting forests and using popular music to communicate environmental issues.” “Our vision is that Seoul will be transformed into a sustainable city. To that end, we have five core initiatives. The first is focused on the Hangang River. We’re demanding an end to irresponsible development along the river and that a vital waterway is reopened by demolishing a dam blocking it. The second is to save local forests and to encourage biodeversity. Third is to eliminate plastic waste. Fourth is to reverse climate change through the use of safe, clean
energy. And the fifth is to clean up our air by reducing traffic pollution.” “Most people think the river only runs through the capital, but it’s the second longest river in Korea and carries more water than any other river in the country. It’s also a natural treasure trove and home to many plants and animals.” “In the 1980s, underwater dams were built under the Gimpo and Jamsil Bridges, blocking part of the river. The water flow rate decreased significantly, leading to the build-up of green algae. We’re campaigning for these dams to be reopened.” In 2010, Seoul KFEM laid out a vision: ‘The Hangang River Playground’, ‘A Community for Safe Cycling’, and ‘Urban Gardening’. We’ve also been working on renewable energy, building two solar power plants, and on a number of pollution projects to reduce the amount of fine dust, radon gas, disposable plastic and straw in our environment, which are all closely linked to social issues in Seoul. At the moment, the river is dirty and the water pollution makes the air smell. We want the area to become a safe, beautiful recreational space for the people of Seoul.” “Because we are an NGO, we don’t take any funding from the government. Instead, we rely on donations and partnership programs, such as this one with Oris. At the moment, awareness of the river pollution problem is low. We’re excited about this partnership because many people know Oris and the association will help us get the message out to Koreans in Seoul and beyond. I’m confident it will be a driving force and help us reach a better environmental future for the Hangang River and the city of Seoul and its people.” To support the organisation’s wider mission to protect the river, Oris introduces the Oris Hangang Limited Edition. Sales of the 2,000-piece limited edition watch will help fund the Hangang clean-up project. The Oris Hangang Limited Edition is based on Oris’s high-performance Aquis diver’s watch and shares the same function and performance profile. It has a 43.5 mm stainless steel case, which is water resistant to 300 meters, and has a unidirectional rotating bezel for safely recording dive times. The deep green color of both the ceramic bezel insert and the dial are inspired by creek waters found at the Hangang’s source. The watch is powered by the Oris 743 automatic movement that features centre hands for hours and minutes, continuous seconds hand at 9 o’clock, circular date window with a white indicator, and a date corrector. It has a power reserve of 38 hours. The case back is decorated with an engraving of a map of the Hangang’s path across Korea, and has the limited edition number.
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Feature Urwerk
Black Is The New Black 92 www.calibremagazine.com
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October-December 2020
URWERK updates its iconic black watch, and it’s still black Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature Urwerk
EARLIER THIS YEAR, URWERK RETIRED ONE OF THEIR MOST RECOGNIZABLE TIMEPIECES: THE UR-210, and to say that it was the timepiece most associated with the brand is an understatement. Nicknamed the “Maltese Falcon” (due to the design of the minute hand which was inspired by the beak of the titular falcon statue private investigator Sam Spade was tasked to track down in the 1941 film noir of the same name), the UR210 originally made its bows in 2012, and went on to become the most popular and definitive iteration of URWERK’s iconic satellite display. Nature abhors a vacuum, so just last September the avant-garde watchmakers filled in the gap with the new URWERK UR-220, codenamed the “Falcon Project.” Aesthetically similar to its predecessor, the new watch visually moved on from the UR-210 with a slimmer and rounded profile. In fact, the UR-220 is a full 3mm thinner than the UR-210. But that still doesn’t exactly make it “svelte,” and that’s because the UR-220’s 43.8mm x 53.6mm x 14.8mm dimensions still make for a pretty thick watch. But, really, if it looks as stunning as this, who cares? “The UR-220 is above all a natural progression from our UR-210 model,” explains Martin Frei, the designer of URWERK’s watches and co-founder of the company. “It meant the death of the UR-210 so that it could be resurrected in a new guise. The differences are subtle but noticeable to the practiced eye.” More spectacular and more Sci-Fi than ever, the UR-220 looks and feels like it just stepped out of the latest Star Trek adventure with a lug-less oblong case made of carbon thin ply composite, and a highly stylized dial with its subtly modified satellite wandering hours display. The multilayered material of the former is made up of 81 ultra-thin layers of highresistance 150g carbon compressed into a hard resin. This resulted in a striated finish with even circular stripes reminiscent of crop circles that complemented the new “rounded” shape of the case. The latter, on the other hand, is THE most sophisticated retrograde minutes indication of all time made even better. Visually similar to its predecessor, the dial of the UR-220 still benefitted from subtle aesthetic and mechanical tweaks by designer Frei and watchmaker Baumgartner that enhanced not only its aesthetics but its performance as well. This means that URWERK’s iconic, patented wandering satellite display is alive and well with the hours grouped in fours on three rotating cubes at the end of three carousel arms. These in turn join with the hollow minutes pointer and
together travel across the 120° arc of the minutes scale. At the 60th minute, the pointer snaps back to zero with lightning speed where it is met by the next hour cube, and together go through the hour-long journey all over again. This lightning fast fly-back snap of the retrograde minutes is thanks to a central axis that keeps the mechanism stable. Running on ruby bearings it is the rock on which the complication is built, and is enhanced by a cylindrical spring, which unlike a traditional chronometer hairspring accumulates the energy needed to power the fly-back. Further, the unusual minutes pointer, which forms the cowl for the hours satellites, is precision engineered to tolerances of a hundredth of a
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millimeter. With a length of 22.29mm, 8.03mm wide and 7.3mm deep, it weighs just 0.302 grams, and is equipped with a pierced pointer to reduce inertia and increase speed. Further, the pointer is built of aluminum and features a bronze counterweight to ensure perfect balance. Finally, two coaxial star cams govern the retrograde action. Its coupling and rotation determine the trajectory of the minutes pointer. Even the numeric displays of the UR-220 weren’t spared Martin Frei’s enhancements, and feature new typography with a stylized militaristic look inspired by the latest Sci-Fi video games to make all the indications even sharper. And while the UR-210 made do with a power reserve and a winding-efficiency indicator, the UR-220 forgoes
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with the latter and instead opts for a two-stage power-reserve. Extremely intricate, and requiring 83 additional mechanical components, these twin stage reserves are displayed on two 24-hour gauges at the corners on top of the dial, and halve the total 48-hour power reserve. As soon as the gauge on the left exhausts the first 24-hour period, the gauge on the right takes over and counts down the remaining 24 hours of power reserve. And as if any of those already mentioned aren’t enough to halt any conversation URWERK ups the ante when the watch is turned over. Indeed, anyone who has ever owned or maintained a car knows that routine oil-changes are not only necessary but also inevitable. URWERK reminds us that mechanical movements are the same. Last seen on the UR-110 models, URWERK’s oil change indicator is another conversation stopper that tells the user, not only how long the movement has been running, but also when it’s time to service and lubricate the machinery. New and improved for the UR-220, the two side-by-side rollers of URWERK’s oil change indicator is framed in red and shows the number of months the movement has been running. The user starts the count by removing a locking pin and pressing the button on the back of the watch. As soon as the rollers show that the movement has been running for 39 months, it’s time to have the watch serviced, after which the URWERK technicians will reset the counter to zero and replace the locking pin. “It’s more than just a numerical counter, but an additional connection with your watch,” says URWERK co-founder, Felix Baumgartner, who put the idea into better context. “The oil change indicator is witness to the time your watch has spent on your wrist. It’s also a visible record of the energy you have put into the movement by winding it regularly.” Also requiring mention is the fact that everything discussed above consumes enormous amounts of power. And while it’s true that power reserve has traditionally been URWERK’s Achilles heel (due to the sheer mass of the satellite hours and retrograde minutes hands requiring extra torque to move), this all changed with the new in-house UR-7.20 hand-wound movement, which has been substantially modified from its predecessor. Not only has the automatic winding system found in the UR-210 been removed, the power capacity of the new UR7.20 movement has been beefed up to 48 hours courtesy of a single mainspring barrel. This November, just five weeks after the introduction of the Falcon's new heir apparent,
URWERK has drawn the curtains on another UR-220, and it’s also dressed in black, albeit in a slightly different shade. And while the even newer URWERK UR-220 ALL BLACK is technically the same watch as its carbon-clad UR-220 sibling, it does enjoy one major difference: a titanium and steel case coated in black DLC that adds a bit more heft to the wrist, resulting in a more substantial user experience. True, the replacement of carbon thin ply composite to titanium and steel is an abstract choice at best and is geared toward user preference more than anything else but isn’t the freedom of choice the point of everything we feature here?
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The URWERK UR-220 is matched with the watchmaker’s first-ever rubber strap, which continues with the model’s new-and-improved theme, and is a visual spectacle in itself. From the angular scaled layers flowing into the integrated case, to the woven sailcloth pattern on its surface, URWERK’s specially designed, avant-garde rubber strap offers a wealth of visual detail. It was treated with a Vulcarboné curing process for added softness, and features Velcro fastening for quick donning and removal. The URWERK UR-220 ALL BLACK on the other hand takes a more classic route and is matched with a more traditional strap made of black leather fastened with a titanium buckle.
Timeframe
The Tiger's Nest Popularly known as The Tiger's Nest, this is a sacred Buddhist site located on the cliffside of the upper Paro Valley in the Kingdom of Bhutan.
Photo: Keith Sundiang
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