Calibre Magazine September-October 2023

THE BALANCE OF ELEGANCE AND FUN

Collectors, enthusiast, fans

Has the definition changed? Or are people seeing something from the outside that we don’t see from the inside?

We were recently at yet another watch meet-up, which in this case had a few different groups coming together. One of the guests was from a watch company distributor, and he said some interesting things about the different guests. He said that he saw there were different kinds of people, collectors and enthusiasts and more. I asked what made them different, and he said it seemed that the more serious collectors were more concerned about cost and resale value. Which wasn’t really discussed in the conversations but was perhaps assumed.

Which tells you how perception is so far off from what real enthusiasts see.

I said that it must be something new, because true enthusiasts as I and my friends saw from years of experience rarely discussed resale value as anything other than an aside. Enthusiasm was never defined by a price point or a plus or minus on a sheet of paper.

I asked some friends of mine about this. Have things changed that much? In all the talks I give, I ask to not discuss watches as “investments” unless you first want an entire lecture on portfolio management. I have often said no to talks and associations that I felt would end up giving the wrong idea to people.

The watch world is now seemingly defined by pretty much the lowest common

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief

understandable denominator, price, and then by something that only feeds on itself, hype. Yet neither of these were what drew most of those I know into this world. It was pure enthusiasm, in all forms, at all levels. I know people who will be as excited about a piece that costs as much as one of their straps as they will about a piece that costs more than a car. They talk about history and finishes and parts more than market value or “why can’t we get this when we want it.” And just to be clear, every time someone complains about not being able to get the watches they want they make the problem even worse by feeding the hype. It is definitely frustrating, but seriously is this what you should be spending your time on?

There is passion in the watchmaking world, and there is enthusiasm, and yes there is a need to make numbers but that is by far not what defines the industry. At least it didn’t. That’s why we try very hard to bring forth passions you may not see, stories the brands themselves don’t tell but they should.

I see a resurgence in the interest in watches, and it isn’t from all the big-ticket “hype” stuff. It is from the smile of someone new to watches as they hear the clicking of a manual-wind Panerai versus a Grand Seiko, of walking into a mall shop and trying on a few things and grinning as they choose. Of talking to a strap maker that began doing this for fun and now has a stall somewhere. I have stood by the side quietly and seen all these things happen. And it is wonderful.

“THERE IS PASSION IN THE WATCHMAKING WORLD, AND THERE IS ENTHUSIASM, AND YES THERE IS A NEED TO MAKE NUMBERS BUT THAT IS BY FAR NOT WHAT DEFINES THE INDUSTRY. AT LEAST IT DIDN’T.”

Regé-Jean Page

Time travels the world.

ARCEAU LE TEMPS VOYAGEUR

TIME, A HERMÈS OBJECT.

Carl S. Cunanan

Editor-In-Chief

Senior Editor

Hernan C. Mapua

Collections Editor

Jason S. Ang

Associate Editor

Kit O. Payumo

Senior Staff Writer

Alberto E. Casal

Editor-at-Large

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

Design Director

Charie L. Biaden

Senior Designer

Mark David A. See

Designer

Mary Ann E. Marcelo

Contributing Writers

Katherine S. Cunanan

Jose Martin V. Ursúa

Leonard Vincent L. Ho

Edrich Santos

Dominique O. Cerqueda

Contributing Photographer

Keith Sundiang

Mayette L. Asis Vice President

Advertising Traffic Manager

Jennie O. Salazar

Account Managers

Malyn L. Bautista

Erwin G. Bautista

Joji Z. Coloma

On The Cover

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc.

Publisher

Chairman Michael L. Lhuillier

Managing Director

Paolo M. Puyat-Martel

Board of Directors

Michael L. Lhuillier

Paolo M. Puyat-Martel

Carl S. Cunanan

Kevin C. Limjoco

Chief Operating Officer

Cecille Khristine D. Buenviaje

Vice President

Mayette L. Asis

Senior Accountant

Merline B. Urdas

Credit and Collection Officer

Mary Ann M. Benito

Legal Counsel

Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony retrograde day-date Volume 18 Issue 143 - September-October 2023

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BACK TO BASICS

The Value of Memories and Experiences

Looking back at my own watch collecting journey, I’ve learned and experienced quite a lot of things along the way. As an enthusiast who also happens to write about watches once in a while, I’ve been blessed to have seen and held watches that can be considered part of the proverbial summit of horology. In my daily life, I’m of course exposed to more modest/ humble timepieces worn by the majority of the population in Metro Manila who have no idea about the existence of watch collecting as a hobby.

Throughout the years, I’ve met a lot of enthusiasts with varying approaches on how they decide which watch to buy next that’s reflective of their own principles and personalities. However, probably the most important thing I’ve learned in all of these interactions or forums I’ve attended that revolved around watches is something common across all kinds of watch collectors: the importance and value they put into the memories and experiences attached/associated to any watch.

Looking at my own collection, what I would consider my most trivial watches would not

“IF THERE’S ONE SINGLE THING I’D LIKE TO IMPART TO ANY NEW WATCH COLLECTOR, IT’S THIS: MAKE MEMORIES WITH YOUR WATCHES. WATCHES ARE MEANT TO BE WORN AND ENJOYED. IT DOESN’T MATTER HOW HOROLOGICALLY SIGNIFICANT OR EXPENSIVE IT MAY BE IF YOUR HEART JUST ISN’T INTO IT.”

necessarily be the most affordable ones. These would normally be newer or lesser worn watches bought recently with no underlying reason or occasion. In other words, these would be watches which I have no strong experience or memory attached to it. If you equate watch collecting with the different kinds of relationships each person has, you might consider these types of hardly worn watches as ‘acquaintances,’ while old watches with a lot of personal history behind it could be something similar to a ‘friend.’

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large

If there’s one single thing I’d like to impart to any new watch collector, it’s this: make memories with your watches. Watches are meant to be worn and enjoyed. It doesn’t matter how horologically significant or expensive it may be if your heart just isn’t into it.

VINTAGE EXPLORER

At the Movies: Indiana Jones and the Subdial of Sponsorship

Whether it’s due to the years or the mileage, people change. Even the world’s greatest adventurer, Indiana Jones, can take on the Nazis, Thuggees, Chinese gangsters, and Soviets bare-wristed before deciding in his retirement years, “I could really use a watch.” So it goes with Indy’s fifth outing, The Dial of Destiny, in which he sports a Hamilton Boulton. He also carries his father’s pocket watch (perhaps the same one chained to Sean Connery’s waistcoat in The Last Crusade) but does so for nostalgia rather than practicality.

Hamilton is arguably the hardest-working watch brand in Hollywood, with high-profile placements in films like Interstellar, Men In Black — even Sonic the Hedgehog. To the credit of both Hamilton and the Lucasfilm propmaster, this Boulton looks period correct, and (with a squarish 27x32mm case) is appropriately sized for a character that fought in the Somme, and whose biggest adventures happened in the interwar years. Watches tended to be smaller back then, and dressier than the sports watch template set by Rolex and Omega in the 1950s. Indy’s golden Boulton has a delicate look that is rooted in the late 20s: Art Nouveau numerals indicated by Alpha hands, and a subdial with an unfortunately crude-looking seconds hand. Never mind the quartz movement, which is clearly there to reduce costs. Overall, the Hamlton Boulton is a fine addition to Indy’s canonical wardrobe.

Unfortunately, the Boulton is in service of one of the worst movies in the franchise. Indy in 1969 (the setting for most of DoD) is old, just as Harrison Ford in 2023 is old, and a

movie that was more loving and respectful of the character would have highlighted his decades of hard-earned wisdom and his indomitable spirit, even if his fists are weaker and his endurance has faded. Instead, DoD spends most of its runtime humiliating and degrading old Indy. Crystal Skull was not a good film, but it at least gave Indy a happy ending: Marriage with his true love, reconciliation with his troubled son. SPOILERS AHEAD!

After a rip-roaring, CGI-heavy prologue set in World War 2, DoD flashes forward to 1969. Indy has moved from a handsome house in upstate New York to a fleabag in Manhattan. Marian has filed for divorce following Mutt’s death in the Vietnam War. (Mutt enlisted in his late 20s?) Grumpy Old Indy, roused from a drunken midday nap, is a joke to his hippie neighbours and ignored by his bored students. It is such a mean-spirited introduction that continues the trend of Lucasfilm debasing its

legacy characters: Luke Skywalker is a loser hermit who tried to murder his nephew, Han Solo is a deadbeat dad — not even Willow escaped unscathed! Now it’s Indy’s turn to be dragged through the dirt, and overshadowed by a newer, “better” version.

Indy v2.0 comes in the shape of the insufferable Wombat (aka his goddaughter Helena), played by the smarmy beanpole Phoebe Waller-Bridge. Anything Indy could do in his prime, she can do better: Leap across buildings in high heels, jump from one speeding car to another and punch burly henchmen through windows, solve ancient puzzles in record time. All while continuously disrespecting Indy and belittling his accomplishments. Wombat even has a sidekick that is a far more capable (he flies and lands an airplane through a storm on his first attempt!), and far less charming version of Short Round. This true protagonist of DoD has a repellent, sociopathic personality, and is a reminder that today’s Hollywood writers lack both common decency and common sense. Do they actually believe that the audience will be on Wombat’s side? Note that I have not even mentioned the particulars to the plot. Needless to say, it’s nonsense that relies on an antagonist (a wasted Mads Mikkelsen) being simultaneously telepathic and so very stupid.

Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer

Dial of Destiny, with its staggering $300M budget, is on track to be a big flop in a horrible year of films. Indiana Jones is my favourite movie hero of all time, and I have lost count of the number of times I have watched his adventures. That’s why the disappointments of 2008 and 2023 are so painful. In 1989, Indy, his father, Sallah, and Marcos rode into the sunset and into eternity. Let that be his Last Crusade and perfect ending.

Time passes irrevocably.

THE WIND-UP

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world

TEE UP FOR THE RYDER CUP

Rolex and golf’s greatest team contest

When most people think of golf, they think of it as an individual sport. Picture the golfer taking a strong swing as they tee off, or making a gentle putt to sink the ball. You see the golfer, and no one else. It is individual, sole, and sometimes solitary. But the reality is that golf is also a team sport. And there is no greater team event in golf than The Ryder Cup.

The Ryder Cup traces its roots back to 1927, and is held biennially. The Cup brings together two teams of champion golfers, one team from the United States, and the other team from Europe. With twelve players on each team, the team dynamics can be wonderfully fun. Facets of teamwork, sportsmanship, tradition, and good old-fashioned competitiveness all come together, and that’s even before they face the opposing team. The event draws numerous golf enthusiasts, either as on-course spectators or as television viewers across the globe. The teams compete over three days for the coveted Samuel Ryder Trophy.

English golf enthusiast and businessman Samuel Ryder donated the original trophy in 1927 during the competition at Worcester Country Club in the US. The trophy measures 17 inches tall and comes in at 4 pounds. With some golf clubs weighing less than a pound, the trophy might seem heavy, but no one has ever complained, of course. The wooden base features the scores engraved onto it, as a history record of sorts.

Rolex’s connection with the sport dates back to 1967, forty years into The

Ryder Cup’s history. As the brand’s first Testimonee in golf, Arnold Palmer was joined by fellow golf greats (and yes, rivals) Jack Nicklaus and Gary Player. The gentlemen embodied dedication and excellence, and sought to bring golf to a wider audience. Aside from their talent and skill in the sport, they brought fair play and camaraderie. The 1969 Ryder Cup is a testimony to this, when Nicklaus conceded a putt to end the game in a tie.

As Jack Nicklaus said: “These competitions are very different to Majors and other golf competitions. In team competitions such as The Ryder Cup, your competition becomes your partner in the different matches. I am pretty certain that

Arnold Palmer and I never lost a match. We played together a lot throughout our competitive golf careers. These are opportunities for you to become really close with your partner and to create a special bond that can last the entirety of your life. That is the beauty of these competitions.” That is beauty indeed; when athletes of such high caliber come together, you can expect nothing less.

This year, Europe hosts The Ryder Cup from September 29 to October 1, and the Marco Simone Golf & Country Club in Italy has been chosen as the official venue. The course is sure to be exciting and challenging, and will make for great golfing.

Rolex is akin to The Ryder Cup in

©Rolex/JD Cuban

that the brand and the competition alike espouse excellence and fair play. Though Rolex had that connection to The Ryder Cup in 1967, with Testimonee Arnold Palmer, the brand deepened the relationship in 1995 by becoming the Official Timekeeper of Team Europe. Things have evolved since then and Rolex is now the Worldwide partner at all editions of The Ryder Cup in both the United States and Europe, in addition to being the Presenting Partner of the Ryder Cup Points Standings which tracks player performance and qualification on a weekly basis.

Team Europe is led by Rolex Testimonee Luke Donald, taking the reins as Captain. This makes his fifth appearance for Europe in The Ryder Cup, and in each of the previous four times, his team was victorious. He has been vice-captain twice, and this year has fellow Testimonee Thomas Bjørn as vicecaptain. As Luke Donald said, “The Ryder Cup is the purest form of competition that we have in our sport. We play a lot of individual tournaments but to come together as a team and do something for the collective rather than just yourself is special. There is nothing quite like

representing your country or continent. The Ryder Cup is rich in history and there is a great rivalry between Europe and the United States. It is very passionate and there is nothing that matches it in the game of golf.”

Team United States is led by Rolex Testimonee Zach Johnson, who has also been vice-captain twice. Fellow Testimonee Fred Couples is his vicecaptain. Reflecting on the significance of The Ryder Cup, Rolex Testimonee Jon Rahm said: “The Ryder Cup represents a lot for me. It is one of the main reasons why I am where I am today. The 1997 Ryder Cup was the spark that ignited my passion for the game. I cannot quantify or put into words how much it means but it is hugely important for me.” Rounding out Team United States are Justin Thomas and Jordan Spieth. These two gentlemen have been quite formidable on the course as solo players, and even more so when partnered together. Speaking of playing in Europe as compared to being in the US, Justin Thomas said, “With the 2023 Ryder Cup taking place in Italy, we are especially motivated to go there and win.” Jordan Spieth speaks to playing away from home too, “The Ryder Cup is just a different beast when we play it away from home and on European soil. It would be really special for us to win in Rome due to what has been happening over the last few years in team events on U.S. soil.”

Rolex continues to support athletes in this sport, both established and emerging, across the golfing calendar. The brand supports athletes and those chosen to be Rolex Testimonees share the commitment to excellence. Aside from The Ryder Cup, Rolex is also a partner of numerous important amateur events, including the Augusta National Women’s Championship, The British Amateur Championship, and the Asia Pacific Amateur Championship, just to name a few. The brand also supports the Arnold Palmer Cup, Walker Cup, Curtis Cup, and World Amateur Team Championship.

©Rolex/JD Cuban

©Getty Images/Andrew Redington

©Rolex/Chris Turvey

©Rolex/JD Cuban

©Gary Kellner/Chris Turvey

Cartier Greenbelt 3 Facade

VIP Lounge Area

Warm elegance subtly evoked by colour codes of mother-of-pearl with straw marquetry

The Cartier boutique now has a full fragrance bar and home section

CARTIER OPENS ITS DOORS IN A NEW LOCATION

An immersive space for a better client experience.

Formerly located at Greenbelt 4, Cartier’s flagship store relocated their boutique in a brand new space in Greenbelt 3. It is the first boutique in the Philippines to feature Cartier’s latest interior design direction that is curated for a heightened and delightful client experience. The design of the new Cartier store was entrusted to the Moinard Betaille, an agency who had worked alongside the Maison for over twenty years. The agency masterfully infused local Filipino references throughout their design, paying tribute to the host country.

The shimmering gold facade invites customers to discover the wonders of Cartier. As they enter the double doors, they are greeted with a feature wall in a patchwork effect depicting the panther, the Maison’s emblem, bordered by flora, a tribute to the Philippines’ national flower, the Sampaguita.

The Philippines is an archipelago consisting of more than seven thousand islands. Hence, touches of the ocean are incorporated into the interior. Seashell patterns decorate the columns and ceiling. The lighting fixtures contain Filipino influences as well, bearing motifs of bamboo, sea shells, and capiz shells.

The guest lounge is situated in a cozy nook at the righthand-side of the boutique. Here, the walls are decorated with banig which is a traditional handwoven mat normally used for sleeping. Right beside the lounge is the Bridal area, where the display is set up against a bas-relief wall that shows two birds in a mating ritual against the backdrop of a beach, for which the Philippines is well known.

The VIP Lounge has a wall embellished with branches and leaves with wavelike movements, underlined by a patina graded from pink to white. On the other wall, nature is depicted with lush vegetation that represents the rich agriculture of the nation.

The new Cartier boutique presents its full line of products, from men’s and ladies’ watches, perfumes, to their line of jewelry and leather goods. They also have their new line of products, the Art of Living, which include decorative objects, scented candles, and towels.

The Cartier boutique in Greenbelt 3 is not just your ordinary shop. It is a complete experience that ingeniously combines the distinct Cartier DNA with tastefully executed Philippine references that enhances the client’s immersion into the world of Cartier.

Anthony T. Huang, Zenaida R. Tantoco, Anne Yitzhakov, and Mariana Zobel de Ayala

French plaster artist Del Boca completed the backdrop in bas-relief technique with gold inserts taking inspiration.

Cartier Feature Wall with the Maison's emblem surrounded by sampaguita

SEIKOMATIC SELFDATER

A new Seiko Prospex watch brings the iconic 62MAS back to life… again

Firsts are always important, simply because they often represent significant moments in one’s life.

First car, first kiss, first job, first paycheck, first… whatever, will always be memorable and the time and date it happened will never by forgotten. For Japanese watchmaker, Seiko, that date was July 1965, and the first was the debut of, not just the brand’s first diver’s watch, but also Japan’s as well: the iconic Seiko 62MAS

Officially called the “Seikomatic Calendar Diver’s Watch 62MAS,” the name is said to be derived from both the “SeikoMAtic Selfdater,” and the 6217A movement that powered it. And while Seiko’s interest in water-resistant watches actually started much earlier, the 62MAS was the first true Seiko diver’s watch that guaranteed water-resistance up to 150 meters.

The 62MAS was so influential to the watchmaker’s future collections and to the dive watch industry in general, in fact, (Seiko played an important role in the definition of the ISO-6425 standard for dive watches) the Japanese watchmaker has been issuing dive watches directly inspired by the 62MAS for the past several years.

This year, the Japanese watchmaker’s intentions are no different, and have released the Seiko Prospex “The 1965 Diver’s Re-Creation” Limited Edition SJE093. And while there have been numerous other re-editions before, some quite faithful, and some that were

The 62MAS was Seiko's, and Japan's, first diver's watch.

The case diameter and size are the same as in the 1965 watch.

The case back features the same dolphin emblem as the 1965 watch.

“modern reinterpretations” of the original, the new Prospex 1965 Diver’s Re-Creation is probably the most faithful modern incarnation of the 62MAS, yet.

And it all starts with the overall design, shape and size of the case, which are practically a one-to-one recreation of the 62MAS. This means the new SJE093 has a diameter of 38mm, just like the original 62MAS, and crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick thanks to a new high-end movement that puts the new SJE093 in the luxury category. And not only are these nearly identical measurements to the original, these are also a whole lot more slender than the previous reissues, some of which seemed to have bulked up on steroids.

Speaking of high-end movements, the SJE093 is powered by the new Caliber 6L37, the first movement from the slimline 6L family made expressly for diver’s watches. It features the same accuracy and power reserve as the trusted 6L35 movement that is the mainstay of the 6L family; but, thanks to modifications in construction and material, its durability and shock resistance have been upgraded to meet the strict standards of a Seiko Prospex (which stands for “professional specifications”) diver’s watch. And that’s not all.

Despite being painstakingly faithful to the 62MAS, the new watch naturally features all the modern trappings of a contemporary Seiko timepiece. This includes 200 meters of water resistance for greater reliability; a box-shaped sapphire crystal; a new strap that pays homage to the original but produced in high-strength silicone for greater durability and comfort; and the hands and all 12 markers, including the marker by the date window and the pip on the unidirectional bezel, all filled with LumiBrite to enhance legibility in low-light conditions.

Last but not least, the new SJE093 features the same dolphin emblem on its caseback as the 1965 watch, and comes in a special presentation box that echoes the retro feel of the boxes used expressly for Seiko diver’s watches throughout the 1960s.

Thanks to the slim construction of the movement, the watch is now 0.5mm thinner.

The text on the dial is faithful to the style of the original yet updated to reflect current specifications

Words by Carl S. Cunanan

The new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde is a wonderful example of all this. They call it a minimalist design that kind of follows the Bauhaus design principles but that oversimplifies in my opinion. When you think minimalist or Bauhaus, you think of stark straight lines, which underestimates the attraction of this watch.

The first impression, especially of the salmon dial, is one of elegance and sumptuousness and curviness. The face of the watch catches light and curves it around the edges. And at those edges are very thin dots and indices, no hour numerals at all. And because empty space is often more important than occupied space when you read the time, it is extremely easy to read the time clearly. That takes care of the two hands which are, by the way, 8K white gold and slightly curved to match the domed dial. But there is more. A third hand with an open arrow extends from the center and pointing to an arc of numbers that begins just inboard of nine o’clock and three o' clock positions. These are for the date, with odd numbers as numerals and even ones as in between pips. So not crowded at all, yet completely readable. It is, in my opinion, more an aesthetic point than one of data transfer. Which means that they have done their job perfectly. In person, it reminds you of a sun rising on the horizon.

The lower half of the watch face has another indication, what you would normally call a subdial except that it is so beautifully integrated here and harmonious that it is somewhat above that. Another smaller shorter arrow points to the days of the week in yet another graceful but tighter arc. The day starts on Monday at the right, again starting not horizontally but slightly above and already slanted. Letter orientation changes mid-week at Thursday, which is straight vertical and only “THU” as it is right below the central hands position. Then the letters are correctly oriented as they go on towards Sunday.

So here is what Vacheron Constantin gets so right with this watch. It is just gorgeous. It doesn’t in any way feel technical, yet it has the retrograde function that snaps the day and date indicators back to their leftmost position every end of the month or week. The tiniest changes could have made the whole face unbalanced, but it isn’t. It is as beautifully elegant as any of the most classic two or three hand watches.

I don’t want to use the word simple or simplicity too much, because it somewhat belittles the huge attention to detail of the watch when you see it in person. The 3, 6, and 9 indices are nicely shaped and curved, 12 is slightly smaller to give way to the dates. The other hour indices are thinner, the four minute markers in between each are discreet pips. But each detail is extremely well executed. Take a look at the different facets and surfaces of the 18k 5N Pink

Gold Maltese Cross, then realize how hard that would have been to sandblast on one side and polish on the other while still getting proper sharpness and delineation at the right places. You will only see this under a loupe or a macro lens, but it is why the cross kind of shines and catches your attention.

The reason of course that Vacheron Constantin can do things like this is that they have been doing this very well for a very long time. Creation of

Constantin Patrimony

Retrograde Day-Date

Reference: 4000U/000P-H003

Calibre

2460 R31R7/3

Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin

Mechanical, self-winding

25.6 mm (11 ¼’’’) diameter, 5.4 mm thick

Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

276 components

27 jewels

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications

Hours, minutes, retrograde day of the week and date

Case

950 platinum

42.5 mm diameter, 9.7 mm thick

Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial Salmon-coloured with sunburst finishing

Convex external zone with external minute-circle composed of fine diamond-polished 18K white gold pearls

18K white gold applied hourmarkers and hour & minutes

hands

Blued steel date and day hands

Strap

Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone-to-tone stitching, square scales

Clasp

950 platinum pin buckle

Polished half Maltese crossshaped

this type of combination of artwork, creativity, and the technical is far harder than most people realize. The maison has been doing this for a very long time, with their development of colored dials going back to the 1930s and salmon coming in in the 1940s. This allowed a little more variety than the standard elegant white dials. In the case of salmon colors, it turned out they were an excellent combination to steel earlier on or platinum in the case of this watch today. This platinum and

Vacheron

salmon combination isn’t new, we saw it before in watches such as the chronograph reference 47101 and the self winding perpetual calendar chronograph reference 49005 from the 1990s.

Behind the beauty is…more beauty. The inhouse Calibre 2460 R31R7/3 is a self-winding movement that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It has a roughly 40 hours of power reserve, and it is beautiful. The bridges are finished with hand-polished angles. Straight-graining, which

perfectly smooths the flanks, is also done by hand. Screws are carefully polished, and the bridges are adorned with the Côtes de Genève design. A 22K gold openworked oscillating weight is fitted, and has a design of the Maltese Cross. This allows much more of the beautiful finishing work of the movement to be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback.

This watch is a wonderful example of how history and vision and technical experience

and wisdom combine to create something that just reaches higher than the rest. It has a very historic complication but isn’t intense or grandly complicated. It is completely classic and elegant, but brings a level of beauty that isn’t always there. It could very well be, and perhaps indeed should be, a defining and important watch for Vacheron Constantin as they remind the world that there is more to beauty and elegance than numbers and algorithms and hype.

FEATURES

Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.

A Deep Dive Into The World Of Grand Seiko Or rather, Worlds

WE LEARN HOW ONENESS AND COMMITMENT COMBINE TO CREATE WHAT THE MODERN ENTHUSIAST IS LOOKING FOR

Words by Carl Cunanan

How do you explain Grand Seiko, really? It is an extremely important player in the watch enthusiast world right now. It actually has been for a while, but only to those who really saw their growth early on. So the fact that in a row of watch shops they will tend to have the youngest guests is testament to the decision a few years back to make Grand Seiko a separate entity from Seiko, to let it grow on its own. And grow it has.

But you can’t really explain Grand Seiko just using their pieces, or their aesthetics, or their technologies. Maybe that’s why it was so hard to get people past the hype or trendiness of the brand when they would first start looking at it.

To be honest, I didn’t have a full understanding of the Grand Seiko world (I am sure I still don’t) before I spent five full days with them. Which is a lot. But what I want to get across isn’t necessarily about how they have different facilities around Japan (each day had visits as well as hours of travel, some by bullet train, so that says something) or what gets done where or how it all started.

I kind of want to get across a few specific things.

One is that we couldn’t figure out why their watchmaker tales were different from everyone else’s that brought their work surfaces up to their faces. We asked several times, we only got a good answer from those that do the work. It is their microscopes. Every single table had microscopes. And dust collectors. That defines their vision of precision and detail.

When I asked their designer about how he combined his experiences from around the world and what makes what happens in Grand Seiko different, he talked about the geometric visions from other parts of the world and the more natural but still balanced surroundings they have in Japan. But what I saw was what images he used to explain this. He showed the symmetry and geometry of places like Versailles when seen from above, for example. But for Japan, he showed images of trees and bushes and a river but always from eye level. What I saw was that they felt part of nature, not just an observer. Not someone who changed it or shaped it.

Our five days were spent with a lot of travel, and with interesting places to stop and eat that included everything from bento boxes near the factory floor to a place where servers kept filling your bowl with noodles until you gave up. But so many places were pockets of peace and tranquility in a somewhat busy world. There was always an attempt to show beauty even in little pockets of an urban landscape, and it wasn’t just going through a door. It was a walk through a garden that led you to somewhere transporting. It was making sure there was beauty even when things had to be efficient and busy.

⊲ Look carefully when you enter the Seiko Museum Ginza. The tress are more intricate that you realize. And can you find the GS Lion?

⊳ After the Great Kanto Earthquake, the factory was devastated. Kintaro Hattori said he would replace any broken timepieces. He said don't inconvenience the customer.

▲ ⊲

The famous clock above Ginza is wonderful to hear up close. It is also very hot up there.

One more thing that grabbed me. The first ever TV commercial broadcast in Japan was by Seiko, an alarm clock that looked like a chicken. Funny yes, but what this showed me was that the company really had a history of doing what their founder said, always be one step ahead of the rest.

So to me those things gave me more insight than learning how and where they built what and why. It helped explain who Grand Seiko really was.

The first full day started with checking out of the first hotel in Tokyo, and taking a short ride to the Ginza area. The first stop was at Seiko House Ginza, which holds among other things the Waco Department Store. We headed upstairs though, and found out that the curved windows of the upper floors we see from the street (below the famous Seiko clock) house the rooms, offices, and indeed some workshops of the watch company.

The first thing that actually happened, in traditional Japanese fashion, was that we were formally introduced to everyone in the room. Then we were introduced to… their watches. Which was fun, and unexpected. Some of them were new, like the Grand Seiko White Birch. Others were heirloom pieces. All had a story to tell in one form or the other. A wonderful way to start.

We were then given a rather in-depth explanation of the breadth and depth of the world that Kintaro Hattori began decades ago with the idea to “always stay one step ahead of the rest.” The story was told to us by his great grandson Shinji Hattori, Chairman and Group CEO of the Seiko Group Corporation, who would later bring us up to the roof to hear the clock strike 12 at noon. The story was comprehensive and much needed, as the company grew from a small watch and clock seller into a huge conglomerate over the decades.

We also found out how the huge printer company EPSON was created. Many think that the printer company is involved in watches, actually it is the reverse. With Seiko being a key partner in timing for everything from scientific discovery to Olympic Games, they needed a way to better record times than just stopping hands and writing down numbers. So they created a timekeeper that Electronically Printed results. Then they realized that they were learning about printing and electronics. The name EPSON actually came from… Electronic Printer, SON of. So that is why much of the work for Grand Seiko watches is done at a factory that is called Seiko EPSON, which we would visit the next day.

Elsewhere in the building was more to explore. We found the special atelier in which watchmakers create and produce the GPHG Chronometry Prize-winning Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon. We had hands-on time with and explanations of the movement and the various stages of development and prototyping by movement designer Takumi Kawauchiya. We also went to the second floor of the Waco Department Store. The first floor sells the watches, and not just Seikos and Grand Seikos. The second floor has an amazing collection of vintage pieces, a display of relatively unknown special and limited editions, and some documentation that showed all the challenges faced by the Japanese watch company as it looked to step up in the watchmaking world. Other nearby stops included the Seiko Museum Ginza, which it a must-see multi-story walk-through watchmaking history. Then it was off, by private coach, to our second hotel of the visit, near the Matsumoto Castle in Marunouchi.

Full Day 2 began with a ride to the aforementioned Seiko Epson Shoijiri Plant nearby. This is where they basically create all Grand Seiko watches except for the full mechanicals. We were brought through all the processes in two stages, breaking for a very nice bento-box lunch just off the factory floor. We were first given a presentation of the layout of the day and the factory, and some hands-on time with some of the pieces and parts produced there. This includes seeing the raw chunks of sapphire crystal, looking into the level of finishing and indeed mechanical development that goes into the quartz and Spring Drive calibres used here. We learned that they do indeed need to create physical mechanical solutions to certain things even though the movement may be powered by electrical impulses, so when the watch hands move, they do so more gently in a controlled way.

Speaking of finely tuned, this factory houses the Micro Artist Studio, where they also work on pieces from Credor, minute repeaters and more. Their mission, as they state it (translated), is the “refining, study and succession of the art technique on producing the superior watch”, and  “creating the Japan Made superior watch appreciated all over the world.” And it also needs to be “reliable to wear until Grandchildren.”

This factory is also where we started noticing the difference in the watchmaking tables. Unlike those we were used to, the ones used here were lower. We would get our best answer for this the next day. After two bullet train rides from the nearby station of Nagano to Omiya, and then by the wonderfullynamed Hayabusa39 from Omiya to Morioka for our third hotel stay in three nights.

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The Micro Artistry Studio is where the intricate craftsmanship and work for most watches is done.

⊲

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The EPSON comes from Electronic Printer, SON. Because the company started when Seiko learned how to make printers because they needed to print times for things like the Olympic Games.

This is where we started asking why watchmaking tables at Seiko were different than those we normally see.

⊳ Takuma Kawauchiya, Grand Seiko Kodo

Constant-force Tourbillon Movement Designer, Watchmaker

▲ Grand Seiko Kodo

Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003

⊲ Studio Shizukuishi blends quite nicely into the surroundings.

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In this place where all fully-mechanical Grand Seikos are made, notice the windows allowing light and the view outside.

Full Day 3 began with excitement, but unfortunately not a lot of time. We were apparently in an area well known for its coffee culture, but had no chance to explore. We were off to the latest jewel in the crown, the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi Studio whose beautiful building we had only seen in photos so far. Much has been said of their use of local resources and materials, of their view of Mt. Iwate nearby, of their oneness with the local environment. The private coach brought us to the grounds on which the building sits, then it took a while because we all began looking around at the view and everything around us. The Studio sits within an environment that blends with the surroundings while also housing a state of the art facility. Eventually getting inside brought for us the wonderful smell of the wood used in the construction of the building.

We were give a short presentation on the history of the site itself, which included photos of the wildlife that wandered around from time to time and samples of the local arts and crafts that played a part in the design of the structure and of the watches themselves. The main area of the lobby has displays set up, so we walked through those before we took the slow journey along the watchmaking room. The watchmaking room is set back and fully clean, with large windows that allow guests to see the watchmakers at work and also that allow the watchmakers to see outside and get that view of the pocket forests and yes, Mt. Iwate. Their clean room is seriously clean, with huge air filters, area filters, and even desktop ones all trying to rid the room of any contaminants. Everyone in the room was of course suited up. As you walk along the hall, displays show you what is happening in front of you, with certain areas set up so you can speak directly with the watchmaker and translator and see what they are working on with a projecting microscope.

And there it was, the microscopes. Every single table had one, usually on the left with an open space in the middle and the more traditional (western?) raised surfaces on the right. The watchmaking tables, by the way, were all made by local woodworkers and ironsmiths. So everyone used a microscope for their work, though we could sometimes see some of them take what they were working on out so they could see the piece in entirety before putting it back. This is really not something you will see everyday in most if any large watchmaking studios, and indeed when I mentioned it to some European watchmakers they just replied with “but why?” This is testament to the level of detail and the hunt for improvement that Grand Seiko is looking for.

Upstairs, past a display of textured paper tapestries was a salon where you could sit and admire the view of Mt. Iwate in the distance, of the trees and gardens nearby. And of the watches up close. Because this was actually where you could buy something. Several models were available that had a special Shizukuishi rotor for those that wanted what is called a “Raw Buy,” something closest to the source. Basically the watches were assembled just down the stairs.

But wait, there’s more! We went downstairs again and were met with watch parts arrayed in front of us, and yes, each table had a microscope even though they were just for us and not in a clean room. The tables here were also made by the local craftsmen, by the way. Here we went over a few parts and types of finishes used in the making of Grand Seikos. In this case the calibre was the new 9SA5 automatic with manual winding used in the new GS SLGH005 “White Birch.” This is their new movement and it has already become the base for future development. It is the base calibre, for example, for the new Tentagraph, which is yet another first for Grand Seiko. They used this calibre because they wanted to highlight details such as the special overcoil they used and the new “Shizukuishi river finish” they have on some of the component parts.

The final show for the day can only now be shown, and it is actually a wonderful piece and story. Grand Seiko has taken firm hold of the GMT market, and this latest piece is an excellent example of their inspiration. The SBGJ273 mechanical Hi-beat 3600 GMT takes the inspiration of its dial from what can be seen from somewhere we would later visit, but it isn’t the bark of a tree or the frost on a frozen lake. The watch dial is meant to depict the color of autumn leaves, but as it might be experienced on the deeply lacquered floor of an old Japanese home after decades of natural use. A very deep red stripe pattern of a floor with different shades. We went on to see this flooring in Nanshoso, the residence built by Morioka-born industrialist Yasugoro Segawa in 1885. This is one of the few remaining Meiji-era residences and gardens

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Mr. Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation, discusses the influences and demands he sees as he guides Grand Seiko further out into the world.

in the area, and was saved from destruction by a community conservation cooperative. An amazing example of the way that the surroundings inspire the creation of watches in ways you don’t always imagine.

We then checked into the next hotel for the next evening, a modern luxury Onsen with spring water pools both public and in-room. Across the lake we could see Mt. Iwate, and between the lake and the hotel was the Studio Shizukuishi facility, which reminded us of how important it was in the ecosystem of the region.

The last full day began with a bullet train ride back to Tokyo, and wrap-up meetings with the brains and bosses of Grand Seiko. It was in discussions here with Grand Seiko President Akio Naito and Design Manager Juninho Kamata that we saw one of the things I mentioned early on about design influences. And it wasn’t what they said so much as how they said it. In discussing what inspired them, it came across in such a way that they clearly felt they lived within nature, within their surroundings, within their community. The images and experiences mentioned were close-up and immersive, and were also echoed in the places we went and the experiences we had. Whether it was dinner in a garden house beside the Tokyo Tower or lunch in a somewhat high-speed noodle place that was featured in manga and anime, the influences where everywhere but they were not constructed. This was just part of their world. For the watches, they can create precision and accuracy and high levels of finish but they truly try to honor what they hold most dear.

⊳ ▲ ⊲

While the watch on the floor is the White Birch, above is the the SBGJ273 GMT that has the dial inspired by the color and texture of this flooring.

“A popular dial I like is the ‘Lake Suwa’ dial, from our two models SLGA019 and SLGA021,” said Mr. Akio Naito when asked about specific watches with specific influences. “To the southeast of the Shinshu Watch Studio one will find the gently lapping waters of Lake Suwa. Many of the watchmakers and craftspeople go past that lake every day. I was surprised by how our craftspeople captured the gentle waves of the lake, and how important the landscape is for our craftspeople and watchmakers.”

“It has been the source of inspiration for all Grand Seiko watches,” said Mr. Akio Naito when we asked about their daily connection with nature. “It is common in Japanese culture to draw inspiration from nature and to reflect it in arts, designs or products. Even the studio represents the oneness with nature that lies at the heart of every Grand Seiko Watch.”

“To all watch enthusiasts in the Philippines, on behalf of Grand Seiko, I extend a warm invitation to experience the world of timeless elegance and the pinnacle of craftsmanship,” said Mr. Naito. “Whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to the world of luxury watches, we welcome you to explore the unrivaled beauty and artistry that is Grand Seiko.”

THE NEW BEAT OF THE L.V. DRUM

LOUIS VUITTON PRESENTS THE NEW TAMBOUR

Words by Kit Payumo

What watch has a round drum-like case almost architectural in its approach to dimension and proportion, but also has curved sides emblazoned with the 12 letters LOUIS VUITTON that showcases its unprecedented thickness? That would be the Louis Vuitton Tambour, the latest version of which was just released by the French fashion powerhouse.

Having made its debut in 2002 as a traveler’s watch with a GMT function, the Tambour immediately made a statement with its instantly recognizable drum-shaped case (tambour in French) and unusually flared profile, which was wider at the base than at the top that, for better or for worse, became the fashion powerhouse’s calling card into horological distinction.

Over two decades later, the Tambour has reinvented itself into (believe it or not) a slimmer, svelte, and modern version of itself characterized by exceptional finish, casual elegance, and fluid but sculptural lines to compete in one of the most contentious categories in all of horology: the luxury integrated bracelet sports watch segment, and its more than a mere update, the new Tambour is in fact a whole new watch.

Spearheaded by the (very) young Jean Arnault, Bernard Arnault’s youngest son who became Louis Vuitton’s watch director last year after quietly joining the brand in 2021, the drumshaped watch has been upgraded with a thinner case, the aforementioned metal bracelet, and a new automatic mechanical movement to become the MVP of the core collection.

For the longest time, LV watches were divided into three categories: the connected watches, the core collection, and the Haute Horlogerie collection. According to Arnault, the new Tambour is, in fact, geared to replace as much as 80 percent of the company’s core watch collection all the better for the brand to transition to a topend position in the category. “It’s really a kind of a gamble,” said the newly minted watch director. “This shift could either make our business drop quickly or revive it completely.”

Louis Vuitton is known to be the luxury market’s biggest player and the main profit earner of the family controlled LVMH Group, and the transition to the higher echelons of watchmaking was a no brainer. “It would be stupid for us not to enter that side of the business (and make) an integrated sports watch,” said Arnault.

Dominated by the likes of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, and, well, most of everything that Rolex makes, Louis Vuitton has its work cut out for it, and according to Arnault the new Tambour was about bringing coherence to the Louis Vuitton watch story.

To be fair, the brand’s entry-level offerings had little-to-none to do with their low-volume, high-end mechanical releases such as the Tambour Spin Time or the highly inventive Carpe Diem created by the brand’s Geneva watchmaking facility, La Fabrique du Temps; that all changes with the new Tambour. “The brand is dichotomic,” said Arnault. “It’s very bipolar. But from today, we no longer have two levels of finishing, two levels of craftsmanship and two levels of quality. Everything is now on the same plane.”

And what a plane it is. Looking a bit like the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus (especially the way LV also bent the integrated styling to its will) the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Steel is sleek, modern, elegant, and casual at the same time. It has also shed the rotund depth it was previously known for (it was drum-shaped after all) and comes to us with a svelte case measuring “a fully unisex” 40mm in diameter but only 8.3mm thick to compete in one of the most competitive categories in the industry. This not only allows the collection to compete with some of the most seriously established players in watchmaking, but also elevates the brand into its higher echelons.

“After twenty years of audacious watchmaking design based on the renowned Tambour shape, and with the same quest for modernity, elegance and functionality that the Maison has been built on for more than 160 years, Louis Vuitton elevates its watch offer with an unprecedented level of sophistication, on each and every element of the new watch,” said Arnault.

And despite all this talk about sports-oriented thinness, Arnault and company managed to keep the original Tambour’s design aesthetics intact. This includes the Louis Vuitton name spelled out on the sloped portion of the new sandblasted bezel with polished rim, although now the letters are raised and polished with each minutely sculpted letter in line with an hour marker; as well as the signature flaring of the new case middle despite the fact that its underside has been curved to echo the natural topography of the human arm, an ergonomic consideration that continues with the bracelet links: convex on both the upper and inner surfaces to form a rounded profile that better conforms to the shape of the human wrist.

Alas, no photo can truly do justice to the finish of this new watch. The new Tambour needs to be experienced “in the flesh” if only to reveal its creative finishing. Indeed, brushed finishes prevail but for a few exceptions such as the polished crown, which is drum shaped like the case but fluted with distinct yet soft grooves, as well as the polished chamfers and the central links of the bracelet, which, by the way, is a lug-free affair that melds seamlessly into the case.

An invisible clasp completes this sleek aesthetic, and combined with a triple-blade folding buckle (the position of which can only be identified via the engraved LOUIS VUITTON on the end link, as well as the absence of the

polished central link that separates each brushed link from the next) makes the new Tambour the only truly round watch with an integrated bracelet.

Best of all, this newfound slimness is not confined to the case but is reflected on the dial as well, the design of which once again alludes to an aesthetic inherent to the original Tambour and to Louis Vuitton as a whole. This also makes its inherent three dimensionality even more interesting, despite being just over a millimeter thick.

Just take a gander at that split-level chapter ring with micro-sandblasted finish, it is divided by a polished step and consists of an outer ring for the minutes and an inner ring for the hours. Same goes for the dial markers, which are designed to complement each other in terms of spatial balance with the 5-minute markers being recessed, while the hours are indicated with appliques.

This difference in height allows for light to variably interact between the markers, which our

eyes subconsciously register to make for quick and easy reading. Further, the gold indexes are diamond polished, which when bolstered by numerals and hands filled with Super-LumiNova allows the new Tambour to remain fully legible even in dim conditions.

The hands by the way are no longer broad batons but are now tapered, facetted and openworked to bring an additional sense of space to the proceedings. Indeed, the slimmer hands allow more of the dial to be seen at any moment, resulting in the overall lightening of the watch both visually and aesthetically.

The new Tambour is released as an initial two-watch collection (with three more models on the way) both in steel: an all silver tone-on-tone model with a silver gray dial, and the other with a contrasting blue dial. Of the two, the all silver

variation with its almost white center and vertical brushing curiously provides greater contrast as its numerals seem to “pop out” despite its monochromatic nature.

Further, the applied Arabic numerals are in a typographical style similar to that used in the original Tambour, as are the words “LOUIS VUITTON PARIS” just above the central hands that allude to the Maison’s founding in Paris in 1854; and the words “FAB. EN SUISSE” (an abbreviation of “Fabriqué en Suisse”) tucked below the snailed small-seconds counter, which alludes to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Together these pronouncements speak of how Parisian flair and Swiss expertise have combined to realize the new Louis Vuitton Tambour. Speaking of which…

The watchmaking atelier of the Maison in Geneva was founded and led by master

watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, and has brought award-winning horological complications to Louis Vuitton just like the new cal. LFT023, which not only drives the newly evolved Tambour, but is also the first proprietary automatic three-hand movement designed by Louis Vuitton in conjunction with movement specialists Le Cercle des Horlogers

This has resulted in a calibre that is not only resolutely contemporary with micro-sandblasted bridges, polished edges and chamfers that replicates the aesthetic vocabulary of the new Tambour, but cal. LFT023 also faithfully embodies the Maison’s signature visual codes, from the barrel cover with openworking reminiscent of a Monogram Flower to the micro-rotor decorated with a stylized LV in a repeating motif.

Further, a high-inertia micro-rotor in 22k gold is paired with peripheral gearing to provide exceptionally efficient winding to the barrel resulting in 50 hours of power reserve on a 4Hz (28,800vph) escapement. And while the circular-grained mainplate is a nod to traditional movement decoration, the colorless transparent jewels in place of the conventional magenta movement rubies bolsters the new avant-garde visual approach of the cal. LFT023.

The new movement is Chronometer certified by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory under the auspices of the TIMELAB Foundation, ensuring that the cal. LFT023 complies with the rigorous standards of ISO 3159 to boast timekeeping accuracy of between -4s and +6s a day. Louis Vuitton is the first watchmaker to certify its timepieces in this manner, making it a first in the industry and demonstrating the Maison’s ongoing commitment to furthering modern horology.

Elegant, meticulously crafted, and thoroughly modern, the new Tambour is the new face of an equally modern French fashion powerhouse. Considered the world’s most valuable luxury brand, Louis Vuitton may be intimately associated with leather goods and fashion, but since 2002, it has accumulated impressive watchmaking credentials.

The Tambour has consistently contributed to those credentials and in its new guise is geared to write new chapters in Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking story for years to come.

“With this launch, we seek to open a new chapter in the history of the Maison’s watchmaking by creating a watch with strong horological credentials while identifiably Louis Vuitton in style.”

— Jean Arnault, Louis Vuitton Watch Director.

"... A WATCH WITH STRONG HOROLOGICAL CREDENTIALS WHILE IDENTIFIABLY LOUIS VUITTON IN STYLE..."

WATCH ART TOKYO 2023

PATEK PHILIPPE WATCH ART GRAND EXHIBITION TOKYO 2023

Words by Katherine Cunanan

Adecade ago, a watch manufacture decided to do more than create exquisite, complicated, elegant watches. They wanted to show people, whether horologically bent or otherwise, the depth and breadth that horology encompasses. They envisioned exhibitions that were open to the public, with free admission no less, to showcase why horology has captured the time and hearts of many a watch lover worldwide. That manufacture is Patek Philippe, and that event is the Watch Art Grand Exhibition.

WATCH ART TOKYO 2023

“Watch Art” Tokyo 2023 was a resounding success in June of this year. Patek Philippe has held this grand exhibition across the globe — Dubai in 2012, Munich in 2013, London in 2015, New York in 2017, and Singapore in 2019. This sixth exhibition was so highly anticipated because the global pandemic put a stop to all such events. But thankfully, 2023 saw the recurrence of the

“Watch Art” life and this time, in Tokyo. The love for handcrafts coupled with the appreciation of technical expertise makes Japan a strong market for Patek Philippe, so it was a natural choice to hold the event in Tokyo. Aside from choosing the city to host this exhibition, the exact venue was an inspired decision too. The Sankaku Hiroba in front of the Shinjuku Sumitomo skyscraper came alive, thanks to the 2,500 square meters of… Geneva?

Yes, Geneva. Patek Philippe did the impossible and brought Geneva to Tokyo. They recreated the streets of Geneva, the lakeside setting, and the famous Flower Clock, all within the event space. The exhibition had ten themed rooms that led the visitors through a voyage of discovery, from the historic headquarters, to the manufacture, and the Patek Philippe Museum. There were nearly 500 timepieces and objects on display, including the current collection. Many were drawn to the complicated watches, that being one of the brand’s runaway strengths. The “Master of Sound” space was specifically for the chiming watches — a feast for the eyes and the ears.

SOMETHING SPECIAL

The exhibition was not just a look to the past though, as impressive as the past is. Patek Philippe also revealed something special for the Japanese market. Actually, they revealed six ‘somethings’ — six limited editions that show exactly why the manufacture is so excellent and so loved.

The first watch is the Quadruple Complication Reference 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023. This watch is self-winding, has a minute-repeater, a split-seconds chronograph, and an instantaneous calendar. The gentle rose-gilt opaline dial looks elegant with the dark hands and hour markers. The smooth 42-mm platinum case has pierced lugs and has delicious chocolate brown alligator leather strap. To specially mark the occasion, the watch has two different casebacks; one is sapphire crystal with “Patek Philippe Tokyo” in transfer-print inscription, and the other in solid platinum with the same wording engraved. This watch is a limited edition of 15 watches.

The second watch is the World Time Reference 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023. This watch is a patented world first, as Patek Philippe explains — “a date display synchronized with local time.” Patek Philippe developed the ultra-thin selfwinding caliber 240 HU C, with a patented differential system that allows it to manage the date of the local time. It might seem an unusual complication to need, but when business deals, or government instructions, or more importantly, calls home to the family, are involved, the exact date can make a critical difference. The 40-mm white-gold case has two-tier fluted lugs, and the strap is black alligator leather with plum stitching, with a white gold fold-over clasp. The sapphire-crystal caseback has the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo.” This watch is a limited edition of 300 watches.

The third watch is the World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531R-014 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023. This watch is a beauty to look at, thanks to the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel craftsmanship on the dial. A map of Tokyo’s historic Chuo district is recreated in the dial’s center. As with other world time watches, the names of cities are seen on the outer dial, with ‘Tokyo’ being given the special touch of red. As a minute repeater, this watch chimes the local time, meaning whichever city is in the 12 o’clock position. The 40-mm rose gold case watch also has a brown alligator leather strap with a rose gold fold-over clasp. The watch also has two different casebacks; one is sapphire crystal with “Patek Philippe Tokyo” in transfer-print inscription, and the other in solid rose gold with the same wording engraved. This watch is also a limited edition of 15 watches.

The fourth watch is meant for the ladies — Ladies’ MoonPhase Reference 7121/200G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023. The initial version of this watch was launched in 2022, and this version has an elegant pearl gray palette. The 33-mm white gold case has two rows of diamonds, totaling just over 1 carat, that perfectly frame the pearl gray dial. The rounded flanks and straight lugs add to the elegance. The watch has the caliber 215 PS LU manually wound mechanical movement, the smallest complicated movement made by the manufacture. The moon-phase display is so accurate that it deviates just one day in 122 years. The sapphire crystal caseback has “Patek Philippe Tokyo” in transfer-print inscription. This is a limited edition of 200 watches.

The fifth and sixth watches continue the tradition of ‘pair watches’ — Calatrava Reference 6127G-010 and Calatrava Reference 7127G-010. Both models are in white gold with Baton-style applied hour markers and cheveu-style hands on the dial, all in white gold, that align with the minimalist look. The men’s model in 36-mm (Reference 6127G-010) has a light blue lacquer dial, while the ladies’ model in 31-mm (Reference 7127G-010) has a light lilac dial. The white gold cases house the caliber 215 PS manually wound movement, the manufacture’s smallest mechanical caliber. The watches are a limited edition of 400 watches each; 300 pairs come in a double presentation box, while the remaining 100 of each model can be purchased individually.

“...SIX LIMITED EDITIONS THAT SHOW EXACTLY WHY THE MANUFACTURE IS SO EXCELLENT AND SO LOVED.”

RARE HANDCRAFTS

But wait, that is not all. A Rare Handcrafts Collection was also revealed much to the delight of the event attendees. The extensive Rare Handcrafts display featured 40 exquisite creations from the manufacture. There were 8 dome clocks, 5 table clocks, 9 pocket watches, and 18 wristwatches, with each one showcasing amazing artistic skill and creativity.

Let’s take a look at some of the Rare Handcrafts. The dome table clock 20140M-001 “Calligraphy” showcases floral decoration using very fine gold wire cut in small segments and shaped by hand. Patek Philippe created a special table clock, “Tokyo as the Crow Flies” (25014M-001) to honor the host city. This table clock has the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel work showing the city center. Fine gold wire is used here too, partnered with delicate enamel work to bring the idea to life.

The “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji” pocket watch (Reference 995/134G-001) pays homage to another iconic scene from Japan, this time using flinqué enamel and hand engraving.

The Calatrava wristwatch “Tsuba — Oranges and Flowers” (Reference 5089G-125) uses the handcraft traditionally seen

on the handguards of Japanese swords. The “Portrait of a Samurai” pocket watch (Reference 995/131G) was perhaps intended as the perfect homage to the host country of Watch Art 2023. The pocket watch featured an enamel dial and case back with wooden marquetry. Inspiration for this piece came from an old photograph of a samurai in armor, and is one of the most complex wood marquetry pieces to come from Patek Philippe. Proof that Patek focuses on captivating aesthetics as much as on technical expertise. Each watch or clock featured in the Rare Handcrafts Collection is a testimony to the intrinsic value give to such handcrafts and tradition.

LOOKING FORWARD

Patek Philippe held one of the most entertaining horological events in a long time, in the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023. For those among us already in love with all things horological, this made our devotion and obsession even deeper. And for the newcomers to watch appreciation, we know your appetites have been whet. All roads point to Milan, the host city for Watch Art 2025. We cannot wait.

“EACH WATCH OR CLOCK FEATURED IN THE RARE HANDCRAFTS COLLECTION IS A TESTIMONY TO THE INTRINSIC VALUE GIVE TO SUCH HANDCRAFTS AND TRADITION”

CALLIGRAPHY 20140M-001

JAPANESE STAMPS 20141M-001

TOKYO AS THE CROW FLIES 25014M-001

TSUBA – ORANGES AND FLOWERS 5089G-124 and 5089G-125

SHIZUOKA AND MOUNT FUJI 995/134G-001

PORTRAIT OF A SAMURAI 995/131G-001

HOPE FLOATS

In the early days of man, exploration meant traveling to the unknown to discover new information, or to study history to gain a better understanding of how human beings lived, learn from them, and possibly apply their knowledge to better our present lives. Today, a new purpose for exploration is added, and that is to find a region or locale that is teeming with life so that we can preserve it and protect it from the dangers that may lead to its demise.

Rolex supports those who go above and beyond to safeguard the planet for future generations. It is for this very reason that Rolex instituted their Perpetual Planet Initiative, a movement that provides support across many areas and ecosystems, whether they be above or below sea level.

PRESERVING AN UNDERWATER OASIS.

Words by Bert Casal

DISCOVERY OF AN UNDERWATER OASIS

Sandra Bessudo is a marine biologist and professional diver. Her mission is to protect the oceans and the biodiversity. In 1987, while diving around the island of Malpelo (situated hundreds of kilometers off the coast of Colombia), she was captivated by the richness in biodiversity of the area. It was a stark contrast to the nearby island of Malpelo which appears to be a barren volcanic rock jutting out of the ocean.

Upon seeing the richness of life that inhabits the area, she quickly realized that this could all be lost to the threats such as those posed by fishermen. Her first order of business was to collect signatures to ask the government to formally protect those waters.

During one of her dives in the Caribbean, she had a lucky encounter with the then president of Colombia. She discussed her concerns about preserving Malpelo’s waters. The president agreed, and soon officially declared it a Flora and Fauna Sanctuary and part of the country’s National Parks.

Bessudo continued to work with different groups to help enforce the protection and raise awareness of this extraordinary ecosystem. In the year 2000, she established the Malpelo Foundation to strengthen these activities. This led to the spot becoming a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

MALPELO ISLAND BECOMES A HOPE SPOT

Ten years later, Bessudo met legendary oceanographer and Rolex Testimonee Sylvia Earle. The latter explained her vision of a global network of protected “Hope Spots.” Bessudo knew that her protected Malpelo Island was the perfect candidate. Hope Spots are ecologically important areas of the oceans considered vital to the preservation of species or places where communities rely on a healthy marine environment to survive.

Today, Bessudo is the Malpelo Island Hope Spot Champion for Mission Blue. Mission Blue’s mission is to explore and protect the ocean by defining special places — Hope Spots — that are critical to the health of the ocean. Once these spots are defined, their next step is to ignite support to safeguard them as marine protected areas.

To protect her Hope Spot, Bessudo runs two expeditions a year to monitor and study the region. Scientists with a range of expertise, from corals to oceanography, sail with her to collect

“ROLEX SUPPORTS THOSE WHO GO ABOVE AND BEYOND TO SAFEGUARD THE PLANET FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS.”

data about species’ numbers, distribution and health. They take samples of zooplankton to better understand the quality and health of the water and ecosystem.

CREATING SWIMWAYS

Though Malpelo Island is already protected and is helping many populations to grow, some of the species are still struggling with their survival. These species migrate between islands and across the ocean, traveling through unprotected waters, making them susceptible to illegal fishing practices. To prevent this from happening, Ecuador, Panama, Colombia, and Costa Rica joined forces by protecting water corridors known as “swimways.” In 2021, Bessudo started working on protecting these swim ways between reserves in the region.

By providing these protected corridors, Bessudo hopes that dwindling species can increase their numbers. Her collaboration with Mission Blue, and the support of the Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative, is slowly turning this goal into a reality.

Exploration for discovery, though still relevant, has given way to exploration as a means to preserve the natural world. From the deepest oceans to the tallest peaks, Rolex commits to finding solutions to protect our home, and support those who go ten extra miles to safeguard and preserve our planet. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf had a dream of preserving our world. Today, Rolex continues that vision by supporting the explorers of today on their mission to make the planet perpetual.

“EXPLORATION FOR DISCOVERY HAS GIVEN WAY TO EXPLORATION AS A MEANS TO PRESERVE THE NATURAL WORLD.”

SKIPPERERA

Back in the early 1940s high-end sporting goods supplier Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F) commissioned Swiss watchmaker Heuer to produce A&F branded watches to sell in its New York stores. It was a collaboration that led to the manually wound Heuer Solunar, a purpose built tool watch with prominent inner and outer bezels that served to display tide times. The success of this watch led to a chronograph version called the Heuer Mareographe, which combined the tide dial of the Solunar with a three-register chronograph of a 12-hour capacity. Abercrombie & Fitch sold this chronograph under the name Seafarer, and later by Orvis under the name Solunagraph, but Heuer made all models.

Words by Kit Payumo

By the time the late 1960s came around, Heuer had had a successful and highly lucrative two-decade old relationship with Abercrombie & Fitch, and it was Jack Heuer’s close friendship with A&F’s president Walter Haynes that led Heuer to become the official timing partner of the America’s Cup boat, Intrepid, the Olin Stephens designed 12-meter U.S. yacht that defended the Cup for the New York Yacht Club against Dame Pattie, the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron’s challenger.

After a 40-year absence, TAG Heuer’s legendary and distinctive chronograph made especially for the fiercely competitive world of highlevel yachting is back

And while its true that Heuer had always had a close affinity with yacht racing since the 1930s, they were mostly known for the timers and stopwatches sailors would take on their boats and not an actual wristwatch, at least not until 1964. That was the year Heuer entered into an arrangement with Aquastar, a watchmaker known back then for diving and sailing timepieces, to produce the Aquastar-Heuer “Regate” chronograph, a regatta-specific type of chronograph that featured a 15-minute “disappearing ball” counter comprised of a red and white disc that rotated behind a series of five holes on the dial to count down the start of the regatta.

For those not in the know (that would be most of us), Yacht racing is nothing like motorsport racing. Yachts (whether they be dinghies, classic 12-meter America’s Cuppers, or massive maxitrimarans) don’t start from static grids but have slightly more in common with Le Mans-style rolling starts. Whether its two America’s Cup contenders or dozens of dinghies, all the boats battle for position all the way to a starting line between the committee boat and a buoy within a typically five, or 10 minute countdown before the starting signal. Races are often won or lost

in those starting minutes because crossing the line just as the signal sounds takes tactical skill, intimate knowledge of your yacht, a finely honed appreciation of wind and tides, and precise timing.

Indeed, crossing start lines perfectly demands accurate countdown timing. This is why, upon becoming the official timing partner of the America’s Cup team, Heuer produced a special edition of the Aquastar-Heuer “Regate” chronograph with both brand logos fitted on the dial, as well as the name of the yacht “The Intrepid” for the entire crew.

As per tradition, the Cup is awarded to the competitor that wins four races, each measuring 24 miles. Suffice to say, The Intrepid absolutely crushed their Australian challenger, winning all four races consecutively over The Dame Pattie.

To celebrate their victory, Heuer created an entirely new chronograph made specifically for high-level yacht racing, which he called The Skipper ref. 7754, and co-opted the case and movement of the their own 36mm Carrera chronograph to do it. This is why the legendary timepiece was affectionately nicknamed “the Skipperera,” and it boasted a metallic blue dial with the Carrera 30-minute sub-counter modified

to count down the 15-minute regatta pre-start sequence in three, five-minute segments.

And to further honor The Intrepid’s four-tonil victory, each 5-minute segment was painted a different color: vivid orange to alert the crew to the fact that there was just five minutes to go; green to represent the color of the boat’s rigging; and finally light teal to replicate the color of The Intrepid’s deck, a color echoed on the 60-minute counter to its left. It’s worth noting that literal paint chips were taken off the deck of the boat to ensure the hue matched the subdials of the watch, which went into development in 1967 before entering production in 1968.

For whatever reason, production of these ref. 7754 chronographs only lasted a decade, and a grand total of only 20 of them were reportedly ever made, which considering the watch’s enduring appeal, would effectively make the original Skipper a cult classic. To this day the 7754 remains the only Heuer Skipper in the brand’s history to be fitted with the case of a vintage Carrera. Later editions of the Skipper used the Autavia case, and while production of those models lasted until 1983, it’s the Skipperera that’s fondly remembered.

Nobody, not even Jack Heuer could’ve imagined that the Heuer Skipper ref. 7754 would become one of the most iconic vintage watches on the planet. Thankfully for us, it did, because after a 40-year absence from the TAG Heuer catalogues, the instantly recognizable Skipper is back and just like the original Skipper that made its bows wearing a modified 36mm Heuer Carrera case, so does this new and revitalized model, which makes it bows wearing the robust but elegant 39mm case of the “Glassbox” Carrera that debuted earlier this year at the 2023 Watches & Wonders.

Because of its lack of bezel, the sapphire crystal Glassbox extends to the very edge of the case. This resulted in a dial that could be viewed from all the sides. Best of all, the Glassbox “effect” offers warm, vintage-like distortions that when paired with the ingenious curved flange of the dial reinforces the domed effect. This is complemented by prominent, triangle shaped markers positioned at five-minute intervals on the raised minute track that defines the Glassbox design. This high degree of legibility is crucial, especially when the boat is positioning itself during the critical regatta ‘pre-start’ period before the gun is fired to signal the start of the race.

The 2023 TAG Heuer Skipper also replicates the distinctive and colorful livery of the original with a circular brushed main dial in Carrera signature blue and sharply contrasting subdials. As before, the 12-hour counter is awash in “Intrepid Teal,” while the 15-minute regatta counter is segmented in Intrepid Teal, Lagoon Green, and Regatta Orange.

One major departure from the original Skipper design, however, is TAG’s decision to keep the Carrera logo at 12 o’clock, the spot historically reserved for the name Skipper. Instead, we find Skipper safely ensconced within the 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock just beneath the numbers 4 and 8.

Further, the new modernized Skipper also incorporates orange colored accents, most prominently with the bright orange central chronograph hand, at the tips of the hour and minute hands, as well as at the tips of the hour markers, which give just enough punch to the dial without being overtly obtrusive.

Otherwise, this is still a Carrera Glassbox chronograph. This means, it retains its 100m water-

resistance, and at 39mm in diameter with 13.9mm in thickness combined with a very wearable 46mm lug-to-lug measurement, also retains its relatively compact dimensions. The sharp, faceted lugs and oversized pump-style pushers further remind that this is, indeed, a Carrera.

Viewable from the exhibition caseback is the self-winding TAG Heuer calibre TH20-06, the brand’s newest chronograph movement with bi-directional winding, and 80 hours of power reserve. It should also be noted that the calibre TH20-06 is a tri-compax chronograph movement. As such, the watchmakers opted for a “ghost” seconds counter with orange accents at 6 o’clock that also incorporates a date window, to continue its homage to the original 2-counter ref. 7754 Skipper.

Finally, the 2023 TAG Heuer Skipper is matched with a blue fabric strap fastened with a polished steel folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons. Further, the new Skipper serves as the flagship of a whole new series of maritime models that will mark TAG Heuer’s return to the world of yachting.

MAKE A SPLASH

Words by Katherine Cunanan

DDIVEE INN RRIGHT

Divers need equipment that works. The wellfitted wetsuit, proper goggles and fins. And the right watch to help you track your time. A mistake in timing could cost you your record, or worse. The newly released Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver is the watch you need.

First of all, it is an excellent example of an internal bezel dive watch coming in at a good value price for a Swiss Made watch. It uses the Automatic ML 115 calibre, which powers the three-hand plus date movement.

The Pontos S is a nod to the brand’s first generation of Pontos S Divers from just about a decade ago. It was rather well received by the watch enthusiast community as well as the water enthusiasts, but the brand was focusing on the AIKON models, which had very widespread and mainstream strength. This new Pontos S is an answer to the many requests received to bring the watch back.

Maurice Lacroix turned to world champion freediver Lidija Lijić for ideas. She is an ML Crew member who freedives everywhere from warm seas to the water below Himalayan ice.

The new Pontos S is built around the demands needed for strenuous environments but also around the history and aesthetics of the Maurice Lacroix brand. It brings this combination forward with different pieces that have surprisingly different feels. All the watches use a 42mm case, with the crown at 2 o’clock used to adjust the internal bezel. All hour and minute hands are faceted and lined with Super-LumiNova. Hour markers are applied and have lume as well. The date is at 6 o’clock with a raised border. All the watches come with the Easy-Change system allowing quick strap swaps. But then the differences come.

One Pontos S model uses a very basic and clean black-grained face in stainless steel, a traditional look for a modern dive watch easily readable underwater, with the hands (orange tipped for the minute) striking against the textured dial. It comes with an orange strap that works nicely with the orange details on the face.

Another model of the Pontos S in stainless steel uses a white lacquered dial, which gives it a different look that can from afar look kind of retro but up close looks quite modern. The dial markers match more the face color, so the look is very different and perhaps not your first choice if

you will really use it for diving. However the bluetipped minute hand here can easily be seen against the blue minute numerals. It comes with a dark blue nylon strap. This may be the most interesting of the recently-released Pontos S Diver pieces.

Then there is the bronze Pontos S. Still 42mm, but with a bronze case and a beautiful blue-grained dial and contrasting hour indices and minute numbers. The piece is limited to 500 pieces and comes with two straps, one in an excellent vintage dark blue leather and the other in more dive-usable dark blue rubber. The M logo is 4N Gold.

The new Pontos S is meant to be more accessible with a value-oriented price point that is lower than the first model from a decade ago. It is already proving to be a popular piece for the brand, drawing new enthusiasts that are looking for heritage and horological credentials in a modern world.

World Champion Freediver, Lidija Lijić

“THIS NEW PONTOS S IS AN ANSWER TO THE MANY REQUESTS RECEIVED TO BRING THE WATCH BACK.”

Words by William Herrera

“WHITE CERAMIC IS CREATED BY A MIXTURE OF ZIRCONIUM OXIDE...”

Last year, IWC Schaffhausen showcased its latest collection, the “Colors of TOP GUN.”

Fast forward to 2023, The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar

TOP GUN Lake Tahoe in White Ceramic, (Ref. number IW503008), is the newest addition to the Big Pilot’s range. Drawing inspiration from the white dress uniforms of the US Navy, and the picturesque winterscape found around Lake Tahoe, the ceramic color has been given the distinction by IWC and Pantone as the “IWC Lake Tahoe.” Located in the Sierra Nevada mountain range, Lake Tahoe is a regular fixture in the flight path of the TOP GUN flight school, now located at the Naval Air Station Fallon, Nevada. The striking design complemented by the pitch-black dial and black hands with a white Super-Luminova, a stainless-steel crown and case back ring, and a textured white rubber strap with

a stainless-steel folding clasp are just some of the features that elevate this timepiece to the next level. White ceramics are symbolic of the expertise of IWC in advanced performance materials, with the company experimenting with the color as early as the 1980’s. Shortly after, IWC showcased its first wristwatch using Black Zirconium Oxide Ceramic Case.

White Ceramic is created by a mixture of zirconium oxide combined with other metallic oxides sintered using an oven at high temperatures. Renowned as highly scratch resistant and extremely light, Ceramic is the perfect material for a Pilot’s Watch.

This wristwatch got the approval of seven-time F1 World Champ, Sir Lewis Hamilton, who was seen wearing it during the 2023 Miami Grand Prix.

Developed in the 1980’s by Kurt Klaus, the perpetual calendar complication is found on The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar. This intricately mechanical program automatically recognizes variations in the length of the months

and leap years, thus, a manual adjustment until the year 2100 is not required. Also featured is the patented double moon phase, which shows the moon as viewed from the northern and southern hemisphere. A special reductionist gear train ensures the precision of the movement, touted to deviate only a day after 577.5 years of use. The calendar module, driven by a single nightly switching impulse by the IWC manufactured 52615 calibre with a Pellaton winding system, has a seven-day power reserve with a frequency of 28,800 vph / 4Hz. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar has a diameter of 46.5mm and a height of 15.6mm, the glass is sapphire, convex, with an anti-reflective coating on both sides and is water resistant up to 6 bar.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar

TOP GUN will be out in stores from July 2023; additionally, this timepiece can be registered in the My IWC care program, and will benefit from a 6-year extension of the regular 2-year International Limited Warranty.

Colors of Top Gun Lake Tahoe inspiration

Words by Katherine Cunanan

TAKE TO

"THERE IS NO SECOND"

THE SEAS

The America's Cup is one of the most important yacht races in history. It began in 1851 with Prince Albert's Great Exhibition. The epic race finish was one for the books, and created the famous line, "There is no second." The race was a 53-nautical mile race around the Isle of Wight. History says that the yacht 'America' sailed past the Royal Yacht Squadron and was declared race winner. When Queen Victoria asked if the yachts were in sight, she was told yes. "Which is first?" she asked. "The America," was the reply. "Which is second?" she then asked. And the reply: "Ah Your Majesty, there is no second."

THE RACE

With a nearly 173-year history, this race is one of the hardest in the yachting world. Only teams from the United States, Switzerland, and New Zealand can rightfully lay claim to being America's Cup winners. All other competitors have worked hard but have yet to achieve that goal. The 37th America's Cup is set for August to October 2024, in beautiful Barcelona, Spain.

One of those teams intensely preparing for the 37th America's Cup is the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. The team is backed by two-time America's Cup winner, Ernesto Bertarelli. He has the two wins under his belt for now — Auckland in 2003 and Valencia in 2007. Will 2024 be his third triumph? Only time will tell, but his team has been earnestly planning, and has partnered with current Formula 1 World Champion Red Bull Racing. It seems Red Bull Racing succeeds on the racetrack and on the seas too.

THE BOAT

The Alinghi Red Bull Racing boat, or AC75, is a 20.7-meter boat, with a blue carbon fiber hull and 26.5-meter carbon fiber mast. The hydrofoil blades are in stainless steel, and the hydrofoil and hull fittings are in titanium. It has a crew of 8 members, and has clocked a top speed of 53.3kts (roughly 98 mph). The metals combined with the classic blue and hints of red make the boat quite a commanding figure when at sea. The boat has moved into its permanent home in Port Vell, with the inauguration of the facility in September of this year. The team spent a year in Barcelona to learn the lay of the, well, waves perhaps, but having a permanent base now gives the ability for more focused time to work on enhancements and improvements.

THE PARTNERSHIP

Also making this endeavor more powerful is the partnership with TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing. TUDOR has released two Pelagos FXD models to celebrate the special partnership: a chronograph, and a time-only watch. Looking at the watches, you'll see the clear alignment between the look of the AC75 and the TUDOR watches. As commanding as the AC75 is on the sea, so are the TUDOR watches on the wrist.

THE WATCHES

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition watches have a black matte-finished carbon composite case and fixed strap bars. The bi-directional rotatable bezel in titanium is also matte-finished and has a carbon composite insert. The Swiss Super-LumiNova® on the 60-minute graduation increases visibility.  Though powered by different calibres, both models have a power reserve of roughly 70 hours, making them "weekend proof." You can take the watch off on Friday evening, perhaps wear a different watch over the weekend, and put your TUDOR Pelagos FXD back on your wrist on Monday morning with no need to wind it. But did you notice the similar materials for both boat and watch? Carbon fiber, or carbon composite, titanium — perfect on your boat and your watch. Both watch models are also waterproof to 200m (660feet), though we hope the crew on the AC75 will not venture that deep in the ocean. We want them on the waves, not beneath them.

The distinct shade of blue on the dial — somewhere in between royal blue and navy blue

perhaps — plus the added red accents make the watches incredibly handsome, and yes, as handsome as the AC75. The snowflake hands add not just a design detail but increased visibility due to the larger luminous surface.

Back in 2010, TUDOR became one of the first brands to release the single-piece fabric strap with its watches. No plain simple cloth here, though; TUDOR once again partnered with Julien Faure to develop the jacquard-woven ribbon in that distinct blue with the perfect red accent. The fabric is woven on the 19th century looms in the St-Etienne region, and sit quite comfortably on the wrist.

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition Time-Only watch (Reference 25707KN) has hour, minute, and seconds functions, and is powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5602. The tungsten monobloc rotor is openworked, and the bridges and main plate have both sand-blasted and polished surfaces, with laser decorations for added detail. A two-point anchored traversing bridge maintains the variable inertia balance wheel. Coupled with the nonmagnetic silicon hairspring, the Calibre is COSCcertified and even exceeds that standard.

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition Chrono watch (Reference 25807KN) has the hour, minute, seconds,

chronograph, and date functions, and is powered by the Manufacture CalibreMT5813. The chronograph seconds is in the center, with the date window at the 6 o’clock. Creating visual balance on the dial are the chronograph 45-minute counter at the 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock. The added red accents of the subdials and the red PELAGOS are just perfect.

The watch has the signature tungsten openwork monobloc rotor, is also COSCcertified and exceeds those standards as well. The movement was derived from the Manufacture Calibre Breitling 01 chronograph, and TUDOR added a high-precision regulating organ. Derived from the Manufacture Calibre Breitling 01 chronograph, with a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and exclusive finishes, this movement is the result of a lasting collaboration between the two brands.

THE JOURNEY

It seems TUDOR does collaborations quite well, with different stakeholders. The brand partners with people and teams who are like-minded in the search for excellence, and the result is a leveling up for all those involved. This latest collaboration with Red Bull Racing will prove to be exciting and amazing. See you in Barcelona in October 2024!

“AS COMMANDING AS THE AC75 IS ON THE SEA, SO ARE THE TUDOR WATCHES ON THE WRIST.”

OONLY TIMEE

THE 62 UNIQUE LOTS ANNOUNCED FOR THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS CHARITY WATCH AUCTION HAPPENING THIS YEAR IN NOVEMBER

Words by Kit Payumo

The biennial charity auction of luxury watches called Only Watch is back for its tenth edition this year. Founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, Only Watch is a high-end auction of some of the most unique timepieces in the world to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, which afflicts 1 out of 3,500 boys. The genetic disease is one of the most severe forms of inherited muscular dystrophies that lead to progressive muscle fiber degeneration, skeletal and heart muscle weakness, and in the most extreme cases, even death.

A community project backed by power brokers such as HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco, Only Watch has raised a combined total of near CHF/EUR 100 million as of November 2021,

CHF 30 million of which came from the previous 2021 edition of the watch charity/auction alone.

In many ways Only Watch is the horological world’s version of the Met Gala with this year’s crop of specialized pièce unique timepieces possibly the most outrageous yet. Occurring every two years, the charity event has become one of the most anticipated and significant highlights of the watch calendar with this 10th edition set to happen on the 5th of November, 2023 at the Geneva Palexpo, as well as online via the Christie’s website and via Christie’s hotline numbers.

This year, the charity celebrates the auction’s bright and colorful story by including all the colors of the previous editions as well as the color green as an added symbol of hope. And as with the previous editions, the unique timepieces being auctioned will embark on a world tour beginning on the 6th of September in Los Angeles with the rest of the dates and cities to be announced soon.

Here is the complete list of all 62 pièce-unique timepieces that will soon go under the hammer for Only Watch 2023.

LOT 01

ANDERSEN GENÈVE Jumping

Hours Only Watch 2023

This bewitching, minimalist version of the acclaimed Jumping Hours features a unique dial of pure jade delicately cut to a thickness of just 0.4mm and worked to a perfectly flat, flawless finish that looks black at first, but upon closer inspection reveals the unique details of the stone.

Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 50,000

LOT 02

ANGELUS x CHATEAU ANGELUS

Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus

The full, hedonistic result of a watchmaker joining forces with their namesake in the wine industry, the Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus features a red dial made from the freeze-dried lees of the winemaker’s 2022 vintage Bordeaux “Le Majestueux” (The Majestic) giving the piece all its texture and color.

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 60,000

LOT 05

ATELIER CHRONOMÉTRIE

AdC30 ONLY WATCH

This unique edition of the AdC does without any new headline grabbing innovations, and instead, comes with an improved 18K gold case that combines perfectly with the expertly executed sandwich dial, and the new in-house calibre M284 that comes with a rich mixture of high-end traditional finishes.

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 70,000

LOT 04

ARTYA Purity Moissanite

This world-premiere timepiece gives the impression of the new architecturally inspired Manufacture movement called “Purity” floating in the middle of a perfectly cut gemstone borne from the heart of a meteorite crater: Moissanite, the second hardest material on earth after diamond.

Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 50,000

LOT 06

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch Edition

Part of the Royal Oak’s 2022 50th anniversary celebrations, this special edition features a 41mm white ceramic case and matching bracelet, which highlights the openworked architectural movement with its flying tourbillon cage, rhodium-toned gear train, blue colored inner bezel, and 22K gold oscillating weight.

Estimate: CHF 300,000 – 350,000

ARMIN STROM Gravity Equal Force Only Watch 2023

This version of the Gravity Equal Force “Ultimate Sapphire” not only features the varied colors of the 2023 Only Watch auction, including a transparent green sapphire dial, a red logo and blue stitching on the custom strap, but is also the world’s first automatic watch with a constant force transmission.

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000

LOT 07

BALTIC Baltic ExperimentsPremier Quantième Perpétuel

This new perpetual calendar run by the ultra-thin Vaucher 5401 microrotor movement modified to move the date functions like a sonnerie system called the “Premier” was made possible by the French micro brand’s fine watchmaking line, “BALTIC Experiments,” joining forces with Emmanuel Bouchet and the talented watchmakers of Maclef.

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

LOT 8

BARBIER - MUELLER Mosaïque II

A dazzling love letter to Geneva, the Mosaïque II is the result of more than 1,000 hours of work by dial makers

Les Cadraniers de Genève and case makers

Les Boîtiers de Genève to magnify a delicate mosaic of a lotus flower, and the legendary calibre 1304 by F.P. Journe.

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 250,000

LOT 10 BIVER Catharsis

LOT 9

BELL & ROSS BR03 Cyber Rainbow

Inspired by the iconic BR03, the “Cyber Rainbow” brings fresh new light to Only Watch 2023 with a unique black DLC titanium case adorned with varnished pieces in all the colors of this year’s charity auction meant to highlight the exceptional calibre developed exclusively for Only Watch.

Estimate: CHF 45,000 – 55,000

LOT 11

BLANCPAIN Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 Unique Piece for Only Watch

In a nod to Blancpain’s ongoing work with ocean conservation, this Only Watch edition is inspired by the original Fifty Fathoms and features a bombé blue sapphire unidirectional bezel, a blue fumé dial, and a blue NATO-style strap constructed with nylon recycled from fishing nets.

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

LOT 12

BOUCHERON Joy de Lumière

Timeless in every way, the Joy de Lumière highlights volume and innovate gemstone pairing combined with cascading spinels and diamondpaved Art Deco patterns to give us something that is much more than your typical jewelry watch.

Estimate CHF 35,000 – 45,000

LOT 13

BOVET 1822 Orbis Mundi

The Orbis Mundi (“the world” in Latin) is a world timer like no other, which distinguishes itself with an emblematic red gold Fleurier case with the brand’s signature iconic crown and Bovet bow at 12 o’clock that highlights the magenta guilloché dial made with seven layers of magenta lacquer.

Estimate CHF 52,000 – 65,000

Jean-Claude Biver comes to the charity auction for the first time with “Catharsis,” a unique interpretation of the carillon tourbillon minute repeater made of titanium with one of the most unique dials ever created that employed sapphires, meteorite, silver obsidian, and opal to represent the moon against an undulating sea.

Estimate: CHF 500,000 – 700,000

LOT 14

BREGUET Marine Hora Mundi

Embellished to look like a classic marine chronometer, this elegant “tool watch” features an instant-jump time zone display; a “2D” dial with a fascinating interpretation of the world; and multiple rose gold dots on the various cities on the world’s continents that are a reminder that the planet never sleeps.

Estimate CHF 70,000 – 80,000

5555

LOT 15

BULGARI Octo Finissimo

Tourbillon Marble

This special edition features Verde di Alpi marble applied all over the titanium case and dial, the green and white hues of which, not only evoke the alpine forests and snowy peaks of the region, but also echo the main color of the 10th Edition of Only Watch.

Estimate CHF 150,000 – 250,000

LOT 16

CARL F. BUCHERER Manero

Tourbillon Double Peripheral Only Watch

This blacked-out, highly-technical take on the brand’s signature design showcases a cutting-edge forged carbon case flourished with a distinctive flecked/marbled finish that highlights CFB’s signature ‘floating’ tourbillon, which is supported peripherally by three ceramic bearings to give the appearance of it floating in space.

Estimate CHF 60,000 – 100,000

LOT 18

CHOPARD L.U.C 1860

Only Watch Edition

Committing to sustainable luxury, the Only Watch edition of the L.U.C 1860 combines the finesse of an elegant Ice Green-toned solid white gold guilloché dial meant to evoke the beauty of green icebergs found exclusively in the Antarctic with a 36.5mm case made of Chopard’s exclusive and sustainable Lucent Steel.

Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000

LOT 19

CZAPEK GENÈVE Place

Vendôme Complicité “Courage Every Second”

This evolution of Czapek’s renowned Quai des Bergues and Place

Vendôme models is a meeting of minds (a “complicité”) between Xavier de Roquemaurel and watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, and features an open-worked movement and a champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans inscribed with the words “Courage Every Second”.

Estimate CHF 80,000 – 100,000

LOT 17

CHANEL Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch

A set of two watches in highly resistant black and white ceramic inspired by a photograph of Mademoiselle Chanel in her villa in the South of France features a rendering of Chanel printed on a sapphire glass plate with her arms acting as hour and minutes hands.

Estimate CHF 40,000 – 50,000

LOT 20

DE BETHUNE DW5 Seeking

Perfect for Only Watch 23

Embracing ancient iron and steelmaking techniques, Denis Flageollet created this “mass of iron and steel” from iron ore harvested at L'Auberson to showcase the Calibre DB2149 tourbillon movement. And to evoke the origins of time itself, the piece also features a blued meteorite dial and a spherical meteorite moon.

Estimate CHF 220,000 – 270,000

LOT 21

F.P.

JOURNE Chronomètre Bleu

Furtif

Taking a complete 180° turn from legibility, watchmaker extraordinaire F.P. Journe has created a unique piece meant to be an ode to watch appreciation and designed a blue dial crafted from translucent blue Grand Feu enamel purposely made to be enjoyed only by its wearer.

Estimate CHF 200,000 – 400,000

LOT 22

LOT 24

FURLAN MARRI x DOMINIQUE RENAUD x JULIEN TIXIER

FERDINAND

BERTHOUD Chronomètre FB3 “Only Watch”

Designed to celebrate the anniversary of Berthoud’s ‘Master Watchmaker’ title in 1753, this unique piece features the world’s first COSC-certified cylindrical balance spring and symbolizes the passage of time with a patinated bronze case that mimics the patina of the precision navigation instruments supplied by Berthoud during the 18th century.

Estimate CHF 160,000 – 180,000

LOT 25 GÉRALD GENTA Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023

The brand named after one of the most celebrated watch designers of all time is doing three things this November: celebrating Disney’s 100th anniversary; celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Maestro’s first watch; and is participating in Only Watch for the first time with a new minute repeater.

Estimate CHF 350,000 – 500,000

LOT 23

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT x CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW

Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023

For their combined entry to Only Watch 2023, Frederique Constant’s flagship perpetual calendar tourbillon sees its month register at 12 o’clock replaced with an extraordinary planetarium created by Van der Klaauw, the leading specialist in astronomical complications, framed by a cosmic dial made of aventurine.

Estimate CHF 90,000 – 110,000

LOT 26

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition

A pièce unique that combines signature elements of GirardPerregaux’s Constant Force Escapement and the watchmaker’s famous Bridges collection, this special edition also includes the brand’s signature twin barrels and a unique silicium blade that buckles back and forth, providing the regulating organ with a uniform pulse of force.

Estimate CHF 140,000 – 220,000

LOT 27 GRÖNEFELD 1941 Principia Mandala

The Dutch independent watchmaker’s contribution to the charity auction is the first Grönefeld timepiece to incorporate a hinged hunter caseback and features a vibrant and intricate “Mandala,” a sacred Sanskrit circle that signifies unity, harmony, and wholeness, inspired by the colors of the 10th edition of Only Watch.

Estimate CHF 55,000 – 65,000

Secular Perpetual Calendar Pièce Unique for Only Watch 2023

By collaborating with Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier, Furlan Marri has built a secular perpetual calendar that is the simplest of its type with an ultra-simplified secular assembly module operated by a large slider akin to a minute repeater to achieve unprecedented efficiency and hitherto unparalleled affordability.

Estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000

LOT 28

H. MOSER &

CIE. X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium

A Performance Art piece that is yet to be unveiled, the DJ Master set is reportedly powered by a movement developed exclusively for the charity auction, and that Büsser’s memorable panda character is in a colorful beach party setting within Moser’s iconic Streamliner integrated bracelet sports watch.

Estimate CHF 300,000 – 400,000

LOT 29

HERMÈS Arceau le Temps Voyageur Only Watch

The innovative travel watch with the “travelling time” mechanism is back wearing the charity auction’s flagship colors: red, blue, green, and yellow. Combined with Hermès orange, these luminous shades adorn the cities disk in a light to dark gradient, while a matte Mykonos blue alligator strap adds the finishing touch.

Estimate CHF 30,000 – 40,000

LOT 32

JAQUET DROZ

The Rolling Stones Automaton Only Watch 2023

Automaton master Jaquet Droz presents a vibrant musical automaton of the Rolling Stones’ musical instruments hand-crafted from blocks of gold sitting on a disc colored to resemble a vinyl LP against a brightly colored offset time display and a second brightly colored spiral that rotates like a child’s spinning top.

Estimate CHF 250,000 – 300,000

LOT 33

KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN

Stargazer Only Watch 2023

Pièce Unique

Konstantin Chaykin combines his signature Joker design with an unprecedented 16 complications including a tourbillon, 11 astronomical functions, a discrete moon phase, and sunrise and sunset azimuth indicators, in a symmetrical case that features two dials allowing for all the indications without compromising legibility.

Estimate CHF 150,000 – 220,000

LOT 30

HUBLOT MP-15 Takashi

Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch

Merging exceptional Swiss watchmaking with Takashi Murakami’s playful universe, the Japanese artist’s iconic smiling flower is at the center of Hublot’s first ever central tourbillon surrounded by twelve petals set with 444 gemstones to represent the heart of the person buying the watch to aid the research against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

Estimate CHF 350,000 – 400,000

LOT 31

JACOB & CO. x CONCEPTO WATCH FACTORY Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension

This “4th dimension” model features a high frequency constant force device, and a sculptural case crafted out of rose gold and transparent sapphire that offers an unhindered view of a mosaic of rare, translucent ornamental stones all laid out to recreate the color theme of Only Watch 2023 edition.

Estimate CHF 700,000 – 750,000

LOT 35

L. LEROY L. Leroy Minute Repeater Only Watch

Inspired by a rare “Montre à tact” from 1810, this unique piece is a hand-wound minute repeater that reproduces the historical watch’s flinqué soleil dial as an entire rotating disc, which is enhanced by a dedicated arrow that points towards a bezel set with 24 diamonds to display the time in a 24-hour format.

Estimate CHF 150,000 – 180,000

LOT 34

KRAYON Krayon Anywhere Only

Watch 2023

The watchmaker’s first titaniummade timepiece accurately displays the sunrise and sunset from the owner’s chosen location, and is enhanced by a representation of Belgian painter, Théo van Rysselberghe’s “Coastal Scene” in pointillism, a very intricate métier d’art wherein paint is deposited in small, skillful touches.

Estimate CHF 150,000 – 250,000

LOT 37

LEDERER Central Impulse Chronometer

This “dial-less” version is a stunning departure from form for the traditional German watchmaker that gives the movement a new lease on life with a captivating array of colors. The result is practically an entirely new watch that matches its technical excellence with a healthy dose of dynamic whimsy.

Estimate CHF 100,000 – 200,000

LOT 36

LOT 39

LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Einstein Automata – Only Watch 2023

Louis Vuitton has captured the likeness of one of the greatest scientists of all time by incorporating hand engraving and enamelling using miniature and grisaille handmade techniques, and has brought Albert Einstein to life with the manually wound LV 525 calibre featuring 4 animations. Playful, audacious, and oh so incredibly creative.

Estimate CHF 340,000 – 440,000

LAURENT

FERRIER Sport Auto “On Track”

The watchmaker pays tribute to its own history with its renowned sports watch sporting a unique asphalt colored gradient dial, an alternating yellow and blue track pattern, an hour circle surrounded by the green of the 10th edition, and a white small second dial with a tone-on-tone 'OW' for Only Watch.

Estimate CHF 55,000 – 85,000

LOT 40

LUDOVIC BALLOUARD x BRITTANY NICOLE COX Upside

Down Blue Feather

This unique platinum edition features a sapphire-blue silver dial with an eye-catching hand-guilloché pattern by Brittany Nicole Cox, and sees all its hour markers turned upside down with only the current hour displayed the right side up to remind us that only the present moment truly matters.

Estimate CHF 60,000 – 80,000

LOT 38

LOUIS

MOINET Art – Tech

This world premier timepiece from Louis Moinet is another play of the Only Watch 2023 colors with a multicolored dial that uses the optical properties of microelectronic circuits engraved on a silicon wafer that elevates the very traditional Art –Tech into an ultra-modern timepiece.

Estimate CHF 80,000 – 120,000

LOT 42

MONTBLANC 1858 Géosphère

0 Oxygen CARBO2 Only Watch

Unique Piece

The harbinger of a new collection called “Zero Oxygen,” this special edition features a case of CARBO2 made without oxygen, and with zero oxygen inside it. This not only eliminates fogging, but also prevents oxidization, resulting in longer lasting components and providing unfaltering precision over longer periods of time.

Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000

LOT

41

MAURICE LACROIX Masterpiece Only Watch 2023

Inspired by the work of artist Victor Vasarely, the skeleton manufacture Calibre ML330 movement of the brand’s signature Masterpiece watch has been painted in the Only Watch 10th edition colors, which for this unique piece is encapsulated in a 43mm transparent sapphire case.

Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000

LOT 43

MORITZ GROSSMANN

Tremblage Only Watch

“Tremblage” involves a one-piece dial finished by hand using engraving burins moved across the metal in a trembling motion. This has resulted in a rough but matte effect that makes the surface of this unique piece appear beautifully matte, while all the raised elements of the dial are polished.

Estimate CHF 30,000 – 45,000

LOT 46

PETERMANN BÉDAT x AUFFRET PARIS Chronomètre d’Observatoire

A solid horological-leaning entry that eschews any frivolous flourishes for Only Watch, the Chronomètre d’Observatoire showcases craftsmanship, design, and horological mastery by combining Petermann Bédat’s design language with its swan-neck regulator system with Auffret Paris’s aesthetic codes, as evidenced on the click system and the charbonnage on the surface of the movement bridges.

Estimate CHF 50,000 – 100,000

LOT 44

PATEK PHILIPPE A watch in tribute to Philippe Stern

Thierry Stern pays tribute to his father who is turning 85 in November with an exclusive 30-piece limited-edition wristwatch with an entirely new movement designed and built exclusively for this tribute that will never be used again, the first of which is in an exclusive and unique design for Only Watch.

Estimate to be announced.

LOT

48

RESERVOIR x TÉLÔS WATCH

Reservoir x Télôs Watch Edition Only Watch 2023 Tiefenmesser

Tourbillon

LOT 45

PERRELET Turbine Chrono x Only Watch

Perrelet’s 12-blade central turbine chronograph, which has been modified with details in the blue color of the charity auction, remains the perfect complement to a chronograph that eschews the conventional two or three counter layout in favor of a single central rotating sapphire crystal disc counter.

Estimate CHF 15,000 – 20,000

LOT 47

PIAGET Piaget Polo Skeleton

Arty

Also inspired by the artwork of Victor Vasarely, this creatively colored special edition beats to the Manufacture calibre 1200S1 with green, blue, and rose-gold colored skeletonized bridges, all specifically designed for this unique version of the Polo Skeleton with a blue interchangeable strap especially designed for Only Watch.

Estimate CHF 50,000 – 80,000

Designed to look like old depth gauges of yesteryear, this stunning one-off made exclusively for Only Watch showcases the independent brand’s very first in-house tourbillon, and features a regulator-type enamel subdial dial with a 240° retrograde minutes display, and a distinctive oscillating weight designed like the “chadburns” used on the bridge of vintage submarines.

Estimate CHF 50,000 – 60,000

LOT 49

RESSENCE Type 12

Directly symbolizing the fight against Duchene Muscular Dystrophy, this piece features the watchmaker’s signature revolving discs with a blue DNA chain painted on it that disassembles and eventually realigns to deliver a profound message of both tragedy and hope in the ongoing pursuit of a cure. Simple. Creative. Effective.

Estimate CHF 20,000 – 30,000

LOT 50

REXHEP REXHEPI Chronomètre

Antimagnétique

Yet to be released, sources say this precision instrument is both a tribute to historical antimagnetic chronometers as well as a practical timekeeper for modern life that features a rare antimagnetic stainless steel case otherwise known as a Faraday cage made by JeanPierre Hagmann to protect against magnetism.

Estimate CHF 100,000 – 150,000

LOT 53

SPEAKE MARIN Ripples Bleu

Royal

Designed by Stephane Lacroix, the dial of this stainless steel watch features the same hand-crafted wave pattern of the watchmaker’s Ripples collection, which colored in a deeper shade of blue for the charity auction, takes on a unique significance: that of an ocean of hope.

Estimate CHF 35,000 – 65,000

LOT 51

RICHARD MILLE Talisman Origine

Purportedly based on an actual artifact “discovered” imprisoned for an eternity in the heart of the Swiss mountains, this piece is more likely the result of artistic director, Cécile Guenat’s, fertile imagination, which continues her mandate to weave the brand’s horological mastery with the sculptural artistry of fine jewellery.

Estimate CHF 600,000 – 800,000

LOT 52

SINGER REIMAGINED x GENUS

8-Track Watch for Only Watch

Offering a unique “auto(e)motive experience,” this piece features a time display made of two rotating minutes discs that form a figure 8 upon which a fully hand crafted 18K gold miniature vintage race car races along resulting in a fascinating automotive ballet that will appeal to the inner-child within us all.

Estimate CHF 100,000 – 120,000

LOT 55

TAG HEUER Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds for Only Watch

The most spectacular reimagining of the Monaco yet, the SplitSeconds is the first mechanical split seconds chronograph for TAG Heuer, which makes its debut with a totally new case design that takes direct inspiration form the original 1969 model but updated with the thoroughly contemporary aesthetic of the brand’s avant-garde mindset.

LOT 54

SYLVAIN PINAUD Origine Only Watch

A magnificently subtle piece revealed to be a watchmaking tour de force made even more spectacular for Only Watch, this “watchmaker’s watch” is a play on contrasts with an emphasis on finishing that features a stunning, two-tone, multi-layered dial with different shades of blue used on the off-centered dial and seconds display.

Estimate CHF 70,000 – 100,000

Estimate CHF 150,000 – 300,000

LOT 56

TIFFANY & CO. Bird On A Rock Mechanical Pendant Only Watch

Honoring Tiffany’s longstanding horological heritage, this piece re-envisions Jean Schlumberger’s iconic Bird on a Rock brooch with a manual winding mechanical movement, and crafts the exquisitely executed platinum made bird perched atop a beautiful faceted light blue aquamarine secured by four 18K yellow gold prongs to form a case.

Estimate CHF 350,000 – 500,000

LOT 57

TRILOBE Réconciliation

A unique creation that honors the journey one takes when a loved one is afflicted by disease and emerges at the end with knowledge and wisdom, the Réconciliation embraces the Japanese art of Kintsugi by intentionally damaging small portions of the iconic Une Folle Journée only to gild them by hand with gold leaf.

Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000

LOT 61

VOUTILAINEN CSW Only Watch

Only the fourth non-round timepiece made by the independent watchmaker, this new cushionshaped titanium world timer is driven by the new Vingt-8 derived caliber TMZ217, and features a sparkling green solid silver dial engined turned by hand with an elaborate trivague wave guilloché directly inspired by the 2019 Only Watch-exclusive Pocket Time-Teller.

Estimate CHF 175,000 – 215,000

LOT 58

TUDOR Tudor Prince Chronograph One

Forgoing its ideals of reliability, robustness, and value, Tudor pulled all the stops with a modern interpretation of a 70s classic known as the “Big Block,” with the manufacture’s first fully inhouse column-wheel chronograph movement referred to as “Number 0,” and encased it in an opulent 18k yellow gold case.

Estimate CHF 25,000 – 35,000

THERE IS CURRENTLY NO CURE FOR DUCHENNE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY BUT WITH THE RESULTS OF THIS YEAR’S CHARITY AUCTION SCIENTISTS WILL HOPEFULLY GET EVER CLOSER TO A CURE. STAY TUNED TO THIS SPACE FOR THE RESULTS OF THE 10TH EDITION OF THE ONLY WATCH.

LOT 59

ULYSSE NARDIN Freak S Only Watch

Quite possibly the most audacious iteration of the Freak S yet, this special edition features a wildly colorful interpretation of the UN-251 caliber with its double oscillator in silicon, double escapement in DiamonSil, vertical differential, “Grinder” automatic system and carousel that indicates time with the rotation of its own movement.

Estimate CHF 160,000 – 200,000

LOT 60

URWERK Space-Time Blade

Looking like a light sabre standing on its hilt, the Space-Time Blade stands over 5ft tall and is an out-of-thisworld clock crafted in collaboration with talented craftsman Dalibor Farny that displays the hours, minutes, seconds, and the distance of the Earth’s spin in kilometers via cold cathode tube displays.

Estimate CHF 45,000 – 80,000

LOT 62

ZENITH Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set

This Chronomaster Sport Only Watch set of four feature ceramic bezels and dials distinctly colored in one of the four official colors of Only Watch 2023: blue, red, yellow, and green, each of which are powered by the latest generation of the legendary automatic El Primero high-frequency, columnwheel chronograph movement.

Estimate CHF 45,000 – 55,000

“In Petrol We Trust”

BREITLING GIVES ITS ROAD-GOING CHRONOGRAPH A NEW ENGINE

Words by Kit Payumo

Back in the early 1960s Willy Breitling wanted to give the highly-successful Navitimer, a watch created specifically for aviators but that still found a loyal following with some of the greatest musicians and sportsmen of the time like Miles Davis and Graham Hill, a proper followup. His idea was to create a sportier and more contemporary model, one that broke traditional design codes and one that reflected the free spirit and dynamic lifestyle of the young people Breitling wanted to reach.

Indeed, the baby-boomer generation of the 1960s had a truly unprecedented energy and had an innate desire to live extraordinary lives. Considered “radical” at the time, “Boomers” would regularly push boundaries and question the status quo. The first post WWII generation, Boomers were born between 1946 and 1964, and signaled the start of peace and prosperity after 16 years of depression and war.

Not surprisingly, the 1960s was also an incredible time for the American automotive industry, not only did the decade see a veritable boom in production but it also produced some of the most iconic American sports cars of all time such as the Shelby Cobra, the Chevrolet Corvette, and the Ford Mustang. And with baby boomers coming into their own, the combination was probably too intoxicating to ignore.

The result was a nation populated with young people filled with the zest of life, and filled to brim on the promise of an unconquerable America. Indeed, Boomers simply wanted to enjoy life to the fullest in the here and now. “Leave the office early on a Friday, jump in your

convertible, put some music on, head out to meet your friends, and dance to The Beatles all night long,” was a typical Friday night for a baby boomer.

Willy Breitling, meanwhile, had one goal: to improve the image of the mechanical chronograph, a watch whose popularity was waning. And understanding the “importance” of speaking directly to this ‘new’ audience, he quietly took note of the “landscape” and came up with a plan.

“Young people won’t buy the kind of watch dad wears. They will be interested in a competition watch with special dials and push buttons. A watch that will ‘impress the boys’ – a watch that is both impressive and really elegant.” — Willy Breitling

The result was the Breitling Top Time, an affordable chronograph with simple yet elegant lines and exceptional quality and precision, the perfect watch for young men and women interested in sports and technology. Even its name, Top Time, was deliberately kept short, catchy, and in English to underline the modern design of the collection and the energy of the time period.

Targeted towards a younger and “up and coming” demographic, the original 1960s Breitling Top Time collection was meant as an alternative to the utilitarian, aviation-inspired tool watchchronograph that the brand was known for.

“We are sweeping into the field of youth and we are going to speak their language,” said Willy Breitling who brought the original collection to life. “Our special models are particularly suited to the needs of young professionals.We are designing a superb range of ultra modern chronographs led by a completely new model, the Top Time.”

Powered by the maturing baby boomer generation, the resulting Top Time collection was not only more affordable but was also a clear

antithesis to the technical tool watches that were associated with Breitling chronographs. Stark, less complicated dials were a hallmark of this as evidenced by the range’s typical design of a simple black dial with two silver subdials; and with the watchmaker positioning these watches for anyone with a sporting and active lifestyle the Top Time chronographs were offered with three alternate outer scales: tachymeter, pulsometer, and decimal.

Further, thanks to its “bold new lines,” “rare and distinctive air,” and overall elegance, the collection also attracted a solid base of young women, making the Top Time yet another alternative: this time to the dress watch.

Upon its release in 1964, the Top Time found instantaneous success with many celebrities from the sports and entertainment worlds. “The chronograph is no longer a specialist’s timepiece,” shouted the Breitling marketing machine at the

time. “It has become the watch for younger people!”

“Toptime: the chronograph that splits time into fifths of seconds,” said another!

“The chronograph for young men with active pursuits, for sportsmen, and students with a technological bent! These models of peerless precision are equipped with a monocoque watch case ensuring complete immunity to underwater pressure.”

And the baby boomers ate it up, especially in 1965 when the Top Time became a permanent part of popular culture when it made its cinematic debut as the first Bond Watch. Strapped on Sean Connery’s wrist in Thunderball, the Scottish actor’s fourth outing as the iconic James Bond 007 saw the modified Top Time Ref. 2002 fitted with a Geiger counter by Q to help Bond detect radiation in the film. This meant the Top Time was also the first Bond watch to double as a spy tool starting a cinematic trend of Bond “tool” watches that has lasted to this day. And did we

mention, this very same watch would become one of the most expensive Breitlings ever to be sold, selling at auction for £103,875 in 2013?

The Breitling Top Time has even been compared to the Heuer Carrera, the “other” sporty yet simple chronograph that also emerged in the 1960s alongside the Top Time. But while the Carrera has gone on to achieve “icon” status, the Top Time’s legacy has been virtually untapped, that is, until now.

Earlier this year, Breitling launched the new and vintage-inspired Breitling Top Time Classic Cars Capsule Collection, which took off from last year’s Top Time “Zorro” Ref. 2003 41mm limited re-edition, a watch that brought back many of the defining elements of the original Top Time collection.

This was great for automotive enthusiasts, but probably not so great for motorcycle fans, at least, (again) until now. In a push to delve even deeper into the range’s sporting and automotive roots by being all about classic cars, adventure on the open road, and motorbikes, Breitling intends to continue the Top Time as a fully co-branded series and just introduced new Breitling Top Time chronographs that have been co-branded with Triumph motorcycles; as well as the Australian motorcycle, apparel, and accessory and lifestyle brand Deus Ex Machina

And that’s not all. Not content with “simply” being the finest and most focused examples of this current philosophy, Breitling is adding a cherry on top in the form of the sophistication and capability of the B01 movement to the mix.

“These co-branded Top Time watches are for those who are as into the mechanics of their watch as they are the mechanics of their motorcycle,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Breitling Caliber 01 is a finely tuned engine, created with all the precision and attention to detail that goes into building the perfect bike.”

Being of one mind, the stainless steel case designs of the Breitling Top Time B01 Deus and Top Time B01 Triumph are virtually identical. Both models come in at 41mm wide and 13.3mm thick with slightly tapering notched lugs, a slim polished bezel, and a domed sapphire crystal all working in concert to bring a charming 60s sporty feel to the proceedings. Best of all, the two model’s premium finishing elevates everything beyond their vintage trappings.

All the upper surfaces including the bezel, the tops of the unchamfered lugs, the tall piston pushers, and the crown are all brightly and

“The Top Time was a clear antithesis to the technical tool watches that were associated with Breitling chronographs.”

immaculately polished, adding a healthy dose of elegance to the design. The smooth linear brushing along the case sides, however, add aesthetic variety and injects some welcome sporty ruggedness into a design that was dangerously close to coming off as too delicate.

Further, both models are fitted with sapphire display casebacks featuring Deus Ex Machina or Triumph co-branding printed directly onto the crystal. And like the rest of the Top Time collection are both rated for an athletic 100 meters of water resistance. But it’s the dials that give the models their individual identity.

Deviating substantially from 2021’s limited edition Top Time Deus, the new Breitling Top Time B01 Deus brings a classic racing feel to the proceedings and maintains the Top Time signature rounded-square subdial design. A new three register layout enhances the chronograph with a highly contrasting “reverse panda” design, a matte black dial, white azurage subdials, a white tachometer scale on the rehaut that adds a nice “redline” splash of color at the 2:30 position, and a vivid central chronograph hand with an appropriate lightning bolt design. Best of all, the Deus Ex Machina motto “In Benzin Veritas” (“In Petrol we Trust”) on the outer tachymeter scale, in combination with the Deus shield emblem at 12 o’clock on the dial further cements the whole “keep your motor running, get out on the highway” philosophy.

The Breitling Top Time B01 Triumph, on the other hand, is a different story entirely. Cleaving

much closer to last year’s Top Time “Zorro” Ref. 2003 41mm limited re-edition, the B01 Triumph adds healthy splashes of tempered sophistication to the entire ensemble. Starting with an ice-blue on medium grey color palette, the B01 Triumph makes “do” with only two registers with the dial finishing doing all the heavy work.

Taking its cues directly from the “Zorro” limited re-edition the Top Time B01 Triumph emphasizes the unique segmented design that its “Deus” sibling simply ignored, and made it… invisible. That’s right, the two wedge-shaped dial segments that extend from the center of the dial to narrowly surround the signature roundedsquare subdials in medium grey are all but invisible next to the remaining top and bottom wedges. And it all has to do with the judicial use of a metal brushing technique and richly detailed vertical brushing by the watch designers, which resulted in the two finishes either blending into one another seamlessly or becoming contrastingly separate with one finish appearing lighter than the other depending on the viewing angle and lighting conditions. This play on colors and finishes extends to the Triumph’s tachymeter scale, which begins in a medium grey color that transitions to black, only to abruptly change to white. Lovely.

As previously mentioned, both the Top Time B01 Deus and the Top Time B01 Triumph are powered by the in-house Breitling Calibre 01 automatic movement. Equipped with both a column wheel and a vertical clutch, this chronograph movement remains a joy to operate, and in terms of overall performance, the Caliber 01 is impressively solid, featuring COSC-chronometer certification for accuracy and a 70-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. In terms of decoration, the movement’s finishing is relatively simple but attractive, with a large vertically brushed central bridge and large, dramatic visual cutouts for elements like the column wheel and the balance cock. An elegantly skeletonized signed rotor completes the look.

As before, Breitling matches the new watches with either a semi-perforated black leather strap with prominent texturing and bright white, highcontrast stitching for that classic-racer feel, or a mesh bracelet for a cooler, more sophisticated vibe.

Despite the over-crowded vintage, automotiveinspired market, Breitling seems to have found the perfect niche in the motorcycle segment, and have produced two handsome collaboration timepieces that should leave an ample amount of petrol in the watchmaker’s tank for the open road.

The new Montblanc Masters of Art Collection honors the immortal contributions of artists whose work encompasses a broad range of disciplines, from painting and sculpture to design and architecture. This new collection covers different epochs, from the Renaissance and Baroque eras to the Impressionism period, and beyond.

The Montblanc Masters of Art collection’s first edition pays tribute to Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh, one of the most popular painters of the late 19th century. The collection starts off with five limited edition writing instruments. Instead of cladding the pens with van Gogh’s famous paintings (like those you would see in gift shops), the Maison chose a more personal and meaningful path to honor the artist. The designs of the pens take inspiration from the various personal and artistic period in the painter’s life.

HOMAGE TO A MASTER PAINTER

Words by Bert Casal

To help them achieve this, Montblanc worked with the cooperation of the van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, the leading expert on the work and life of Vincent van Gogh. The museum, by the way, houses the world’s largest collection of van Gogh’s art with over 200 paintings, nearly 500 drawings, and more than 700 letters.

Vincent van Gogh was born in the Netherlands in 1853. He got his first job at the age of 16 as an apprentice to an art dealer. In 1880, at the age of 27, he decided to become an artist. To start off, he started painting and drawing the rural life around him. In 1886, he decided to move to Paris where he began experimenting with colors and techniques inspired by Impressionism. He lived in Arles, a city on the Rhône River in the Provence region of southern France. There, he was inspired by the sun-drenched landscapes and the beautiful colors of nature.

MONTBLANC MASTERS OF ART HOMAGE TO VINCENT VAN GOGH LIMITED EDITION 4810

This writing instrument’s barrel is decorated in shades of yellow and orange, reminiscent of the landscapes of southern France. This period of brightness is also reflected in the orange lacquer used to fill the signature “Vincent” engraved on the platinum-coated barrel ring. Next to it is an engraving of “1888” which commemorates the year he moved to Arles.

It was at this time that van Gogh painted his famous series of five sunflower paintings. This motif is expressed on the handcrafted solid Au 750 gold rhodium-coated nib. Van Gogh’s palette knife is the inspiration for the design of the platinum-coated clip. His sweeping brushstrokes is interpreted on the yellow lacquer of the cap top.

To keep an accurate execution of a composition, van Gogh used a device called a perspective frame, a wooden frame with strings that stretched across it to show the convergence of perspective lines towards a vanishing point. The triangular subdivision created by these strings inspired the shape of the cap top of this edition.

The cap is made from hornbeam wood, a token of van Gogh’s appreciation of a Japanese art form which involved woodblock prints. The woodcutting knife (hangi-toh) used for making these woodblock prints inspired the overall silhouette of this writing instrument.

After a highly-productive year in Arles, van Gogh moved to Saint-Rémy and later to Auverssur-Oise, where he found new inspiration for his creativity in its peaceful surroundings.

Montblanc introduces a new collection dedicated to one of history’s greatest artists.

The famous series of five sunflower paintings inspired the interpretation embossed on the handcrafted Au 750 solid gold, rhodiumcoated nib.

MONTBLANC MASTERS OF ART HOMAGE TO VINCENT VAN GOGH LIMITED EDITION 888

The design of this edition details the Provençal skies and one of his most famous paintings, Wheatfield with Crows. The engraving of “Saint-Rémy” on the cap reveals the painter’s next chapter while “1889” on the barrel ring commemorates his move to Saint-Rémy. During this time, van Gogh created impressions of the gardens and wheat fields near where he lived. Provençal blue skies and golden wheat fields are reflected in translucent lacquer inlays in different shades of blue and in the solid Au 750 yellow gold skeleton overlay. The stars shining brightly on the night skies over the wheat fields are represented by sparkling particles in the blue lacquer of the barrel and the solid Au 750 yellow gold Montblanc emblem on the cap top.

An image of his painting Almond Blossom is embossed on the solid Au 750 gold nib. The Japanese style of painting mimics the overall silhouette of a Japanese hangi-toh. Van Gogh’s palette knife inspires the platinum-coated clip, while his sweeping brushwork is immortalized in blue lacquer of the cap top.

MONTBLANC MASTERS OF ART HOMAGE TO VINCENT VAN GOGH LIMITED EDITION 161

This edition of 161 captures the artist’s final years in Saint-Rémy and Auvers-sur-Oise with design details reflecting his one of his last works, Tree Roots. The solid Au 750 signature gold barrel ring is engraved with van Gogh’s signature and “1890” commemorating the year he drew his last painting. The Ag 925 sterling silver barrel is decorated with lacquer inlays with design and colors from Tree Roots. On the Ag 925 sterling silver cap, there is an engraving of his view in Saint-Rémy, a drawing he sketched in pencil, reed-pen, and pen & ink. The cap top gets its shape from the triangular subdivisions of his perspective frame. Crowning the blue cap top is the Montblanc emblem in solid Au 750 signature gold.

As with the previous instruments, the clip is inspired by the shape of the artist’s palette knife. The silhouette of the Limited Edition 161 also follows that of a Japanese wood-cutting knife, while the solid Au 750 signature gold cone’s shape recalls the cutting blade of this tool.

The image embossed on the Au 750 solid yellow gold nib immortalises Vincent’s painting “Almond Blossom.”

The sterling silver cap reveals an engraving of a drawing he sketched. The blue cap top is presented with the Montblanc emblem in solid Au 750 signature gold.

The barrel and cone contain a quote from a letter to his brother, which translates to:

"The painting comes to me as if in a dream."

MONTBLANC MASTERS OF ART HOMAGE TO VINCENT VAN GOGH LIMITED EDITION 90

This piece celebrates the master’s time in Arles, reflecting his Provençal landscapes. His buoyant colors were applied using the impasto style — applying thick paint in rough strokes to create a topography of colored layers. On this Limited Edition 90, this technique is interpreted by hand in the artwork adorning the cap and barrel. There is an engraving of “Arles” on the cap top that also contains a solid Au 750 yellow gold Montblanc emblem.

The blue and orange colors depict the balls of yarn that van Gogh used to test color combinations. The embossing on the handcrafted, solid Au 750 yellow gold nib is in reference to his series of five sunflower paintings. Van Gogh’s palette knife inspired the yellow gold-coated clip.

MONTBLANC MASTERS OF ART HOMAGE TO VINCENT VAN GOGH LIMITED EDITION 8

His painting Wheatfield with Crows depicts a deep blue sky contrasting with the bright yellow of a wheat field, dotted with black birds. The jewel-like quality of this sky is captured in the blue lacquer artwork on the solid Au 750 signature gold cap and barrel, partly set with brilliant-cut diamonds and enhanced with swirling engravings. The sky imagery continues on the cap top, where a hand-painted field of intense blue lacquer edged with brilliant-cut diamonds frames the Montblanc diamond at the centre in a solid Au 750 signature gold setting. The cap features an elaborate handcrafted marquetry design inlaid onto solid Au 750 white gold, rhodium-coated and composed of tiny pieces of mother-of-pearl, sycamore, tulip tree, beetle elytra and straw. Sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines and brilliant-cut diamonds set around the marquetry inlay intensify its vividness.

"Arles" is engraved on the cap top that also contains a solid Au 750 yellow gold Montblanc emblem.

PHOTOGRAPHY JUST GOT BETTER!

Unique, just like you! The tag line that sums up perfectly the latest offering from Leica.

Words by William Herrera

The new Q3 is now available at the Leica store, at Greenbelt 5, Makati City. This compact, full-frame camera delivers stunning image clarity for both videos and photos even in low light conditions; and with the Leica FOTOS app, the Q3 allows you to view, transfer, and edit your photos and videos, right out of your mobile device, giving a creative and professional look to all your shots.

The Leica Q3 features the full-frame BSI CMOS sensor with triple resolution technology (60MP / 35 MP / 18 MP); ISO range from ISO 50 all the way to ISO 100.000. The Summilux 28mm f/1.7ASPH fixed lens with macro mode with optical image stabilization. The state-of-theart Hybrid Autofocus system (Phase detection AF + Contrast AF + Depth from defocus + AI) ensuring that nothing worth taking a photo of is ever missed. The Q3 has a tiltable 3-inch display and a 5.67MP OLED viewfinder, providing freedom in shooting even at uncommon angles. This would be a video creators dream camera, as the Q3 shoots up to 8k resolution and a full set of codecs, from .h265 to ProRes from Apple. Connectivity is never a problem with the Q3, with a USB-C port and HDMI port, this compact camera can easily connect to other devices. The Q3 has an IP52 rating, making it perfect for travelling and shooting outdoors; dust and rain would not be a problem for the Leica Q3.

The Leica Q3 only measures 130 x 80.3 x 92.6 mm and weighs in at only 743 grams with a battery (658 gms without). The body has a full metal housing, Magnesium die-cast, and leather covering. Power is supplied by a Lithium-ion rechargeable battery, and wireless charging capable.

If you are in the market for a full frame, compact camera, then the Leica Q3 is for you!

Leica Store Manila Product Specialist, Jojo Gloria presenting the new Leica Q3

David Celdran, Wig Tysmans, Leica Store Manila Brand Manager Sharllene Ramos, and Enchong Formoso

WRITING THE BOOK ON IT

The TAG Heuer Carrera

Words by Katherine Cunanan

The Carrera has a very special place in several worlds. In the watchmaking world it was an important technological step forward by a company that at the time was already very forward-thinking. In the motorsports world, it was just as important, if not more so.

Most people see that the TAG Heuer brand has been tied to modern motorsports, but the roots are far deeper. The company was a key component in motor racing and Formula One, being the timing partner and indeed the one that had to develop the ability to split the second while waves of twenty or more cars came past the finish line almost all at once.

One of the key wristwatch models that made its way to many a racedriver’s wrist is the Carrera, aptly named after a historic race.

This now-iconic model is heralded in a new book entitled “TAG HEUER CARRERA: THE

RACE NEVER STOPS.” Launched mid-August of 2023, the book commemorates a history that began in 1963 and continues on.

The book is a collaborative effort with work and words from the likes of specialist journalist Simon de Burton, designer Mark Newsom, historian Nick Foulkes, and car guy/BBC Top Gear Editor At Large Jason Barlow and others.

The authors and contributors will take you through six chapters in the history of the Carrera, going deep into each decade of the life of the wristwatch. It will also include an exclusive Carrera catalog that showcases the most important Carrera watches from 1963 to 2023.

“TAG HEUER CARRERA: THE RACE NEVER STOPS” will bring forth a story of a wristwatch that began as a much needed tool and developed to become an icon of watchmaking it also of Motorsport, and above all of passion. It will be available in TAG Heuer Boutiques and book shops from October 2023.

“...AN IMPORTANT TECHNOLOGICAL STEP FORWARD BY A COMPANY THAT AT THE TIME WAS ALREADY VERY FORWARDTHINKING...”

What’s on top of the clock on top of the Waco department store on Ginza? This! On a very hot July noon, we took photos with the great grandson of Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori, the current Chairman Shinji Hattori.

Photo by Carl S. Cunanan

Watch and listen to our IG reel to hear the clock strike 12.