Calibre Magazine March-April 2024

MINUTES

Trust

In a recent discussion after one of the watch talks I have been doing, we got onto the subject of how much of time and the telling of time is really about trust.

Which is, to be honest, the way it is for most things.

Early clocks were sold with no name on them, so you trusted the person you bought them from. If you go to many clock collections in maritime museums, including the mother of them all in Greenwich, England, you will see the names of shopkeepers, of the ship’s chandlers that would be the dockside stores that ship captains would go to for supplies. This was also the place they would go to sell their wares. It would often be the case that when a new sail was seen on the horizon, townspeople would go to the port to see what new things were to be had. Food, clothing, materials. Even the news came this way.

So did clocks.

The ship captains had the need to have the best, most consistent possible timekeepers because this was how they would fix their location when away from recognizable land. So the clocks they would buy, and they would often buy them, were often a leap of faith. Of trust.

Pull this all into the modern world, and think about brand names. Many companies made their names more by the way their products actually consistently worked than by how beautiful they were or how desirable they became. Rolex, as an example, wasn’t

the first timekeeper or watchmaker by far, but what they did was make the telling of time consistent, the mechanisms tough enough and reliable enough that people would trust them. The fact that there are Rolex Service Centers around the world is testament to the fact that there is value in trust. It is very well argued that the reason the brand with the crown is so strong is more about what happens after the sale than before it.

“THE SHIP CAPTAINS HAD THE NEED TO HAVE THE BEST, MOST CONSISTENT POSSIBLE TIMEKEEPERS.”

Carl S.

Cunanan

Editor-in-chief

One of the big challenges of modern watchmaking is that all the new movements and mechanisms and complications are harder than ever to keep going or handle if they go wrong. In the past, the only people that would buy hugely complicated pieces were those that knew their horological stuff. Who understood that these were works of art meant to be cared for, not commodities to be traded. That is, rightly or wrongly, kind of out the window because people are throwing money at things they don’t understand past a price tag or a reference number or a sound bite.

The buying side of the world has changed drastically, yet the watch industry is actually very slow to change. And that’s not necessarily a bad thing. They wouldn’t release pieces before unless the support systems were in place, for example. They were constantly training, teaching, learning. Some may joke about the wording of watch magazine advertisements, but I guarantee you that the thinking in many of these Maisons is indeed generational. And that is as it should be.

So please, look past the latest buy or the latest trend. Have good long conversations with people who won’t echo what you think. If you are leaders, surround yourself with people who think, not those who just follow. If you are artists, broaden your horizons while honing your craft.

The world is changing drastically in many ways, but the core truths are still there. If they aren’t around you, find them. Create them. Share them. Inspire them.

Trust me.

32 Tudor

94

Carl S. Cunanan

Editor-In-Chief

Senior Editor

Hernan C. Mapua

Collections Editor

Jason S. Ang

Associate Editor

Kit O. Payumo

Senior Staff Writer

Alberto E. Casal

Design Director

Charie L. Biaden

Senior Designer

Mark David A. See

Designer

Mary Ann E. Marcelo

Contributing Writers

Katherine S. Cunanan

Jose Martin V. Ursúa

Leonard Vincent L. Ho

Edrich Santos

Dominique O. Cerqueda

Contributing Photographer

Keith Sundiang

Advertising Traffic Manager

Jennie O. Salazar

Account Managers

Malyn L. Bautista

Erwin G. Bautista

Joji Z. Coloma

C!

Chairman

Michael L. Lhuillier

Managing Director

Paolo M. Puyat-Martel

Board of Directors

Michael L. Lhuillier

Paolo M. Puyat-Martel

Carl S. Cunanan

Kevin C. Limjoco

Chief Operating Officer

CK Buenviaje

Senior Accountant

Merline B. Urdas

Credit and Collection Officer

Mary Ann M. Benito

Legal Counsel

Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office

Distributed by:

Quality deserves time.

VINTAGE EXPLORER

Mr. and Mrs. Rindt

We have often discussed historical wristwatches that have been blessed with nicknames. Some of them were named after notable people e.g. Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, James Bond. In other words, icons of masculine cool from a bygone era. In contrast, there are almost no examples of watches associated with women. Other than this column’s subject, the only one that comes to mind is the “Pussy Galore” GMT-Master (Ref. 6542), though any flickers of recognition will come from a select group of obsessive vintage Rolex addicts, well outside the mainstream. That leaves us with the monochrome chronograph known as the “Nina Rindt.”

Born Nina Lincoln, the future Mrs. Rindt would become a trackside star at Formula 1 races in the late 1960s. Her father was Curt Richard Lincoln, a racing driver of renown in his native Finland with successes in sports cars and lower formulae single-seaters. From her childhood in Finland she would go on to boarding school in Switzerland, after which her exceptional grace and beauty led to the world of fashion, where she rubbed shoulders with fellow models like Twiggy. In 1967 she married Jochen Rindt, a promising young Austrian driver with a clear goal of becoming World Champion. During race weekends, they were an inseparable and attractive pair, and mavens of late-1960s fashion that was tipping from elegant to casual. They had great friends among the other drivers and wives, including Jackie and Helen Stewart, and Piers and Sally Courage. At home in Switzerland, documentary footage paints a life of domestic bliss as Jochen and Nina raised daughter Natasha, born in 1968.

At the time of his wedding, Jochen languished in a Cooper-Maserati that was both slow and not particularly reliable. A 1968

move to championship-winning Brabham yielded two podiums and nine retirements — in an 11-race calendar. 1969 brought the first opportunity for victory. His friend and manager Bernie Ecclestone had negotiated a drive for Lotus, which had a reputation for cars that were frail, potentially dangerous, but faster than anything else on the grid. Rindt had his doubts, and these were borne out when he crashed heavily in the 1969 Spanish GP, after the spindly supports of his Lotus 49’s high-mounted rear wing suddenly collapsed. Despite a rudimentary understanding of aerodynamics, Lotus boss Colin Chapman was willing to risk it all for ultimate performance. And though his relationship with Chapman was contentious, Rindt similarly went along for a shot at the championship.

The Italian GP was the 10th race (out of 13) of the 1970 season, and Rindt arrived at Monza comfortably leading the championship. His revolutionary Lotus 72 had given him five wins thus far, and he had double the points haul of his closest rival. Monza has been called the Cathedral of Speed, but this church has a graveyard holding scores of drivers and spectators. During practice, Rindt’s Lotus suddenly veered into the guardrail while braking hard into the final Parabolica corner. The steel barrier failed, tearing off the wedgeshaped car’s front end. Rindt, who did not secure the crotch strap of his 5-point harness, submarined into the cockpit and was fatally injured by the harness buckle. He died in the ambulance, 28 years old. Months later, Rindt would become F1’s first, and thankfully only, posthumous world champion. Ferrari's Jackie Ickx, who had a shot at overhauling Rindt's points lead after the accident, expressed considerable relief when he failed to do so.

The Universal Genève Compax (Ref. 885103/02) is forever tied to Nina Rindt after she was photographed wearing it at multiple grands prix. Although only produced from

1964 to 1967, it is an exceptionally clean design that combines many of the best details of chronographs from that period: Take the simple panda dial of a Daytona or Carrera, a smaller version of the Speedmaster case and black tachymetre bezel, and the chunky hands of the Tudor Homeplate chronos. Within it was the legendary Valjoux 72, the movement that powered thousands of chronographs for half a century. Although Universal has had a rough time in recent years, it is on the brink of a rebirth. I should also mention Jochen’s own Heuer Autavia: Ref. 2446 with the “Reverse Panda” dial. Significantly cheaper and more common today than Nina’s timepiece, this Autavia would have been considered cuttingedge in 1970, as one of the first automatic chronographs. This black Autavia is a memento to a fallen champion, and to all the lives lost during Formula 1’s killer years. Nina’s white Compax is a tribute to a lovely ray of light in the pits, and to everyone who similarly mourned, and then lived.

Jochen asked, “Nina, do you have a wish free?” Nina smiled sweetly. “That you would stop racing.”

Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world

BREAK POINT

Zenith is back as the official timekeeper of the UTS 2024 Tennis Championship

The 2024 season of UTS has officially begun, and Zenith is once again ready to jump into the court as sponsor and official timekeeper of the game-changing tennis league. For those not in the know, UTS is short for the Ultimate Tennis Showdown, and is tennis like you’ve never seen it before. The brainchild of celebrated French tennis coach Patrick Mouratoglou, UTS is world’s newest, innovative, and most exciting tennis league on the planet, and is tennis that has been modified for today’s younger generation. Thus, no rigid code of conduct and stodgy all-white outfits are allowed here.

According to Mouratoglou, “the average tennis fan is 61 years old, and that number is increasing each year, tennis is currently in a danger zone.” Why? Because modern day tennis lacks emotion and diversity due to said rigid code of conduct.

“Players have been forced to polish their personalities and fit into a specific mold that the sport has created,” says Mouratoglou. “As a result, there are currently no McEnroe or Connors, which are players that truly share their personality and emotions with the fans and that the fans, in return, can genuinely relate to. Second, there is a lack of modernity in the sport. Tennis has stagnated for over 40 years, sticking to the same rules and traditions. It has failed to adapt to a changing reality and to appeal to new generations who completely stand out from previous ones. New generations, for instance, don’t want to sit still in silence for 3 hours to watch a tennis match; they want faster, more intense, and ready-to-consume content. There is an urgent need to reinvent how tennis is played, watched, and consumed.”

Enter UTS, which is in many ways influenced directly by e-sports. Designed with an interactive format, UTS gives tennis fans the opportunity to feel closer and connected to their favorite tennis stars via on-court and video coaching that fans are allowed to hear and experience. This is most especially true with the mid-match interviews that get inside the player’s heads right at the heat of the moment. In turn, an all but free-form code of conduct and a more laid-back (read: open) atmosphere allows the players to show their true personalities by carrying themselves more freely on the court.

Zenith will once again be the shining star at the height of all this. The league’s Official Timekeeper since its first edition in 2020, Zenith re-enters the fray with its latest sporty chronograph: the Chronomaster Sport Titanium, which elevates the sense of performance and endurance with its lighter than steel titanium alloy with one of the highest strength-to density ratios of all metallic elements. Titanium is also incredibly robust by being highly corrosion resistant, as well as paramagnetic, ensuring protection from external magnetic fields.

Endowed with a predominantly satin-brushed finish, including the sunburst, satin-brushed titanium bezel engraved with a 1/10th of a second scale that truly sets it apart from all other Chronomaster Sport references, the Chronomaster Sport Titanium features a dial that reinterprets Zenith’s signature tricolor design in shades of grey. Further, the sunray-patterned dial is done in a galvanic nickel-grey color, and features chronograph counters in three different tones of anthracite, grey and silver, while the case and bracelet’s chamfers as well as the rim of the bezel and the case back are polished, which is only possible when working with higher grades of titanium.

Throw in the latest version of the El Primero movement dubbed the El Primero 3600 and you have the goods to back up the looks. It vibrates at an ultra-high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 VpH) to offer a true 1/10th of a second indication, all with an extended power reserve of 60 hours.

“As we start the 2024 UTS season, I am proud to work with ZENITH, our official timekeeper,” continued Mouratoglou. “In the UTS league, time is always in players’ minds because it is at the center of the concept. Every match ends when time runs out, the match is time centered. This completely changes the way we play tennis! The Chronomaster Sport Titanium is more than a watch for us. It’s a symbol of how important time is in UTS. For me, our partnership with ZENITH is not just about keeping time; it’s about making every tennis moment count.”

THE ROLEX CHINA SEA RACE 2024

Getting back on track after a three-year hiatus.

For almost 70 years, Rolex has forged strong relationships with the world of yachting. Both the brand and the sport share the common pursuit of excellence and a passion for premium performance. One of these races is the Rolex China Sea Race, hailed as one of the most tactical offshore races in the world.

The boats start the race in Victoria Harbor in Hong Kong. They make their way to Subic Bay, Philippines, where two naval vessels mark the finish line. The 565 nautical mile journey will test the sailors’ strength, stamina, and skill as they battle winds (or sometimes the lack of it) and waves on this open water race.

They provide training programs for practitioners of all abilities and ages to nurture their development, produce elite athletes capable of competing at the highest levels, and contribute to the growth and popularity of the sport.

The 2023 race was a milestone in Philippine yachting history. It was the first time that a Philippine boat won Line Honors — the first boat to cross the finish line. The boat Standard Insurance Centennial 5 was skippered by owner Ernesto Echauz, a veteran in the world of sailing. Echauz, having participated in nine editions of the race, has had his name engraved on the China Sea Race Trophy on two separate occasions: once in 1998 and the other in 2008.

2024 marks the 62nd anniversary of this World Sailing Offshore Special Regulations Category 1 race organized by the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, one of the oldest and most prestigious clubs in Hong Kong. This year, the Rolex China Sea Race will start on March 27. The biennial race was interrupted in 2020 when the pandemic broke out. The race resumed last year when international borders opened. After this year, the race will resume its biennial schedule.

Photos by Daniel Forster

2023 Line Honors - Standard Insurance Centennial 5

“You can’t cry on a diamond’s shoulder and diamonds won’t keep you warm at night, but they’re sure fun when the sun shines.”

— Elizabeth Taylor jewelry

THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE

A testament of quality, efficiency, and versatility.

The TUDOR Manufacture is located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This is where every single TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards. Connected to it is the Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement facility where the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres are made. The construction of the TUDOR Manufacture started in 2018, with the objective of moving the assembly operations of Montres TUDOR SA from Geneva closer to its affiliates and suppliers. It was completed in 2021 and officially inaugurated in March of 2023.

Many of TUDOR’s watches feature a Manufacture Calibre, which is developed and assembled at Kenissi. Everything from research and development to final

assembly takes place hare. All TUDOR watches are tested at the TUDOR Manufacture. Every model passes the TUDOR Performance Control, meaning the watch, when it is fully assembled, meets a variance of -2/+4 seconds precision per day. This specification is even more accurate than what is prescribed by COSC (-4/+6 seconds a day), the most popular testing institute. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss, as well as waterproofness that conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO).

To ensure that there are no dust particles in the movement during assembly, the Manufacture’s HVAC system, located at in the basement, creates a continuous flow of air from the ceiling to the floor so that dust is kept from floating around the workshop.

To deliver value to the end user, TUDOR does not maintain a stock of assembled watches. Every watch produced is quickly released to stores and boutiques so the end user can enjoy a freshly made, truly brand new watch. The TUDOR team is very flexible and versatile. Each team member is capable of assembling any reference in the TUDOR collection, attesting their optimized operations and efficiency.

COVER WATCH

Technology, toughness and a little more flash

A SOLAR TAG HEUER SOLARGRAPH IN 34?

WITH DIAMONDS?

Words by Katherine Cunanan

So just a couple years ago, TAG Heuer did what they always tend to do. They combined their history with something fresh. And it was all within a package that would appeal to those both in the know and those wanting to grow. Well, they did it yet again.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer has a past. Jack Heuer is most remembered not just for the pieces he created but also for his Motorsports connection. In 1978 he introduced something a little different. To the insiders and enthusiasts it was Heuer Reference 844. It was meant to be a robust adventure watch, a sports watch from the company that was perhaps identified most with sports and motorsports timing, and also with classic pieces like the Carrera and the Monaco.

But this new watch was meant to create a new category for them, focusing on high-accuracy and high-performance but also with a much wider range of use. Extreme all-conditions use. Wherever the watch took you, or wherever you took the watch. It was meant to be versatile but tough, classic, and distinctive enough for rather

elegant use yet robust. The Swiss watch company did this back then, and the concept clearly worked, for them and for the rest of the industry.

It worked well enough that a quarter century later in 2004, the model line was officially named the TAG Heuer Aquaracer. And this brought forth a whole new flock of enthusiasts and fans but also brought new watch users into a different world. One where you didn’t have to leave behind your good watch when you went diving, or your tough watch when you went out at night.

The now-iconic Aquaracer family made yet another jump in 2022, just as the world was coming off some very challenging years and starting to go back out and do the things they missed. TAG Heuer released the Aquaracer Solargraph. In a first for the brand known for mechanical mastery, they gave the world their first solar movement. It could be had in a striking black-DLC steel case that made a very strong statement.

The next year saw the watch visually and literally lighten up, bringing the solar technology forward with a more subtle titanium case. The watch face had a familiar texture that made the brushed titanium case look more elegant while still allowing excellent charging efficiency and running life.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

Professional 200 Solargraph Titanium 40 mm diameter

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

Professional 200 Solargraph Black DLC 40 mm diameter

“...BROUGHT FORTH A WHOLE NEW FLOCK OF ENTHUSIASTS AND FANS BUT ALSO BROUGHT NEW WATCH USERS INTO A DIFFERENT WORLD”

And 2024 brought the bling. The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is a big, though actually somewhat smaller, deal.

It is a big deal because of the dialwork that goes into these 34mm steel cases. The solar energy movements need to have the most access to light possible, and with their new textures and surfaces this was quite a challenge. They all had to be semi-transparent.

The most familiar of the five new watches will be the one with the very memorable signature blue dial with a deep sunray brush. It uses nicely finished indices and hands that are striking against this and the other dial materials.

The next piece from the regular collection would be what some may call a bit greenish. It is their distinctive polar blue-grained iridescent dial. Accents also can be seen on the second hand, the dial markings, and the minute track.

The next set of three watches bring something new to the solar family – mother-of-pearl dials. This was again quite challenging because the dials had to be semi transparent enough to allow light to pass through but also be able to provide enough solid surface to allow proper readability. All while showing the wonderful properties and textures of mother-of-pearl itself. No easy feat, this.

There are three mother-of-pearl dial watches available, each of which brings a different level of elegance and luxury to the sporty adventure watch. The one they call the sleek version is the simplest. Indices are rhodium plated applied with white Super-Luminova, as are the hands.

The next level comes with diamonds. 11 applied indices with 1.60mm diamonds. The highlight Aquaracer from the new collection has the diamond indices but adds diamonds on the bezel. There are 34 diamonds of 1.70mm and 1 diamond of 1.80mm (at 12 o’clock) all sit within the signature raised portions of the unidirectional turning bezel.

All the watches of the new collection benefit from several new details and adjustments. The lug to lug distance was changed a bit to better fit different wrist sizes. The profile is sleeker, and at a thickness of 9.5mm, quite svelte. The bracelets are all three rows of polished steel, held with a steel folding clasp with double-safety push buttons and a comfort link extension.

And every one of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph models, even the ones with the diamonds, are rated for 200 meters of water resistance.

“THE SOLAR ENERGY MOVEMENTS NEED TO HAVE THE MOST ACCESS TO LIGHT POSSIBLE, AND WITH THEIR NEW TEXTURES AND SURFACES THIS WAS QUITE A CHALLENGE.”

SPECIFICATIONS

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

WBP1311.BA0005

Movement

⊲ Calibre TH50-01

Functions

⊲ Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial

⊲ Deep blue sunray brushed dial

⊲ Rhodium plated applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Polar blue lacquered central hand with blue Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated TAG HEUER logo

⊲ 3 o’clock date

⊲ AQUARACER SOLARGRAPH 200

M / 660 FT printed

Case

⊲ 34mm diameter

⊲ Steel fine brushed & polished case

⊲ Steel 60-minute scale unidirectional turning bezel

⊲ Flat sapphire crystal with double

⊲

⊲

Dimensions

⊲ Lug-to-lug: 40.6 mm

⊲ Thickness: 9.7 mm

WBP1312.BA0005

Movement

⊲ Calibre TH50-01

Functions

⊲ Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial

⊲ Mother of pearl dial

⊲ Rhodium plated applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated central hand

⊲ Rhodium plated TAG HEUER logo

⊲ 3 o’clock date

⊲ AQUARACER SOLARGRAPH 200

M / 660 FT printed

Case

⊲ 34mm diameter

⊲ Steel fine brushed & polished case

⊲ Steel 60-minute scale

unidirectional turning bezel

⊲ Flat sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment

⊲ Steel screw-down crown at 3 o’clock

⊲ Steel screwed caseback

⊲ Water resistance:

200 meters

Bracelet

⊲ Polished steel 3 rows bracelet

⊲ Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons with comfort link extension; TAG Heuer shield

Dimensions

⊲ Lug-to-lug: 40.6 mm

⊲ Thickness: 9.7 mm

WBP1315.BA0005

Movement

⊲ Calibre TH50-01

Functions

⊲ Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial

⊲ Polar Blue grained iridescent dial

⊲ Rhodium plated applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated central hand

⊲ Rhodium plated TAG HEUER logo

⊲ 3 o’clock date

⊲ AQUARACER SOLARGRAPH 200

M / 660 FT printed

Case

⊲ 34mm diameter

⊲ Steel fine brushed & polished case

⊲ Steel 60-minute scale unidirectional turning bezel

⊲ Flat sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment

⊲ Steel screw-down crown at 3 o’clock

⊲ Steel screwed caseback

⊲ Water resistance:

200 meters

Bracelet

⊲ Polished steel 3 rows bracelet

⊲ Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons with comfort link extension; TAG Heuer shield

Dimensions

⊲ Lug-to-lug: 40.6 mm

⊲ Thickness: 9.7 mm

WBP1313.BA0005

Movement

⊲ Calibre TH50-01

Functions

⊲ Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial

⊲ Mother of pearl dial

⊲ 11 applied indexes with 1.60mm diamonds

⊲ Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated central hand

⊲ Rhodium plated TAG HEUER logo

⊲ 3 o’clock date

⊲ AQUARACER SOLARGRAPH 200

M / 660 FT printed

Case

⊲ 34mm diameter

⊲ Steel fine brushed & polished case

⊲ Steel 60-minute scale unidirectional turning bezel

⊲ Flat sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment

⊲ Steel screw-down crown at 3 o’clock

⊲ Steel screwed caseback

⊲ Water resistance: 200 meters

Bracelet

⊲ Polished steel 3 rows bracelet

⊲ Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons with comfort link extension; TAG Heuer shield

Dimensions

⊲ Lug-to-lug: 40.6 mm

⊲ Thickness: 9.7 mm

WBP1314.BA0005

Movement

⊲ Calibre TH50-01

Functions

⊲ Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Dial

⊲ Mother of pearl dial

⊲ 11 applied indexes with 1.60mm diamonds

⊲ Rhodium plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®

⊲ Rhodium plated central hand

⊲ Rhodium plated TAG HEUER logo

⊲ 3 o’clock date

⊲ AQUARACER SOLARGRAPH 200

M / 660 FT printed

Case

⊲ 34mm diameter

⊲ Steel fine brushed & polished case

⊲ Diamond set (34 diamonds of 1.70mm & 1 diamond of 1.80mm), steel 60-minute scale unidirectional turning bezel

⊲ Flat sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment

⊲ Steel screw-down crown at 3 o’clock

⊲ Steel screwed caseback

⊲ Water resistance: 200 meters

Bracelet

⊲ Polished steel 3 rows bracelet

⊲ Steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons with comfort link extension; TAG Heuer shield

Dimensions

⊲ Lug-to-lug: 40.6 mm

⊲ Thickness: 9.7 mm

FEATURES

Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.

Versatility of the Royal

The TUDOR Royal sits between classic and sporty.

Words by Bert Casal

Hans Wilsdorf wanted to create a watch brand that produced high quality watches at affordable prices. He wanted more of the consumers to be able to own really good watches without bending over backwards to own one. So in 1926, he founded TUDOR to produce the best possible watches at the best possible prices.

In the 1950s, TUDOR released a line of watches they called Royal. This collection of watches was aimed at emphasizing the superior quality of TUDOR watches. Decades have passed and the quality of the Royal line still stands today.

Every collection has their own distinctive “look” or signature design. Though the Pelagos and Black Bay collections may seem similar, they are distinguished by the indices used. The Pelagos uses square indices, apart from the arrowhead at 12 and rectangular indices at 3, 6, and 9. The Black Bay, on the other hand, utilizes round markers. In the case of the Royal collection, they are distinguished by its notched bezel, with its alternating surface polish and cut grooves, giving the Royal its unique personality.

The Royal collection has a variety of dial variations. They come in gold, silver, mother-ofpearl, blue, black, chocolate brown, and salmon. Each of these variations also come in four different sizes: 28 mm, 34 mm, 38 mm, and 41 mm. Some of these stainless steel watches come in two-tone 5-link bracelets with matching yellow gold bezels. Others are adorned with diamonds on the bezel and hour markers. In other words, the Royal collection has a wide variety of versions to pick from.

“The Royal range offers self-winding, sporty and chic watches with integrated bracelets that are as affordable as they are aesthetically sophisticated.”

The TUDOR Royal range has adopted the sunray motif for its dials creating elegant lighting effects and reflections against Roman numeral hour markers to accentuate the chic character of the Royal. The 28 mm, 34 mm, and 38 mm versions all display the hour and date at 3 o’clock. The 41 mm version additionally displays the day of the week at 12 o’clock.

Its characteristic bezel is harmonized by its three wide satin-brushed links set between two slimmer polished elements. The smooth quality of its surfaces and edges assure comfort on the wrist. The bracelet is available in all stainless steel or with alternating links in stainless steel and yellow gold.

In 2017, TUDOR launched a campaign with the #BornToDare signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air, or underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf who manufactured TUDOR watches to withstand the most extreme conditions. Wilsdorf was, after all, the inventor of several cornerstones of modern fine watchmaking, which includes wristwatch precision, waterproofness, and the self-winding mechanism. The TUDOR #BornToDare spirit is supported throughout the world by first class ambassadors, whose life achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.

Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totaling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of highperformance mechanical calibres.

Since the brand’s creation in 1926 and in line with Wilsdorf’s vision of the ideal timepiece, TUDOR has been ceaselessly creating watches that are as robust, durable, reliable, and as precise as possible. On the strength of this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or submitted to periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every ten years, depending on the model and the extent of its use o a day-to-day basis.

“The meticulous finishes of the models in this range cater to every taste.”

SPECIFICATIONS

TUDOR Royal

Case 41, 38, 34 or 28mm 316L stainless steel case with polished and satin finish

Bezel

Notched bezel in 316L stainless steel or yellow gold, alternating cut grooves and polished finish

For the 28mm model, 316L stainless steel or yellow gold bezel set with diamonds

Winding Crown 316L stainless steel or yellow gold screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR logo in relief

Dial Black, silver, salmon, chocolate brown, champagne-colour or blue, sunray-finish, with or without diamonds

Gem-set white mother-ofpearl (34 and 28mm only)

Applied Roman numerals

Day of the week at 12 o’clock (41mm only)

Date at 3 o’clock

Crystal Sapphire crystal

Waterproofness

Waterproof to 100m (330 ft)

Bracelet

Integrated bracelet in 316L stainless steel or 316L

stainless steel and yellow gold, 5 rows, satin-brushed external and central links, polished intermediate links, with folding clasp and safety catch

Movement

Self-winding mechanical movement

Calibre T603 (41mm) or T601 (38 and 34mm) or T201 (28mm)

Power Reserve

Approximately 38 hours

Functions

Hour, minute and second hands at the centre

Semi-instantaneous date at 3 o’clock

Semi-instantaneous day of the week at 12 o’clock (41mm model only)

Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Oscillator

Nivarox, adjustment via index assembly

Frequency: 28,800 beats/ hour (4 Hz)

Total Diameter

T603: 33.3mm

T601: 26mm

T201: 17.5mm

Thickness

T603: 5.5mm

T601: 4.6mm

T201: 4.8mm

Jewels 25 jewels

MASTERPIECE THEATER

The latest exotic, high-luxury watch from Hublot

Words by Kit Payumo

As far as Hublot is concerned, all the world is a stage and typically the watchmaker pulls all the stops and acts accordingly.

Which is why when Hublot introduced its latest “superwatch” at the LVMH Watch Week 2024 everyone kind of saw it coming. Representing the latest chapter of the brand’s MP (Masterpiece) collection, the mouthful that is the Hublot MP10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System (MP-10) is another exotic tour de force from Hublot on steroids. To think the MP-10 seems to be going the opposite direction from Hublot’s penchant of going bigger, brighter, and more bombastic!

Don’t get us wrong, the MP-10 is overtly technical and most definitely disruptive in its

appearance. But unlike Hublot’s own La Ferrari or MP-11 Red Magic, which have become associated with Hublot’s particular brand of high-tech excess, the MP-10 seems comparatively sedate. Fairly smooth in appearance compared to the others in Hublot’s MP stable, the MP10 is marked by a sleek design with rounded angles that nevertheless disrupts the classic circular layout of a watch display by unleashing a movement that displays the hours and minutes on rollers, the seconds on an inclined tourbillon cage, and the power reserve on a third roller.

If this all sounds familiar it’s because Hublot did the roller bit before with the La Ferrari and later with subsequent models. Unlike the La Ferrari with its 50 days of power reserve and stacked mainspring barrel system, though, the conceit of the MP-10 is its groundbreaking Weight Energy System, which employs weights, or more

specifically, two blocks of white gold on either side of the central architecture of the MP-10 that are “arranged on a vertical axis along which they are free to move.” And the MP-10 “required” this rather complicated and eccentric winding system, because, well, the MP-10 is not a flat watch, and with its time-telling indications being read vertically, it needed a complementary energy generating system.

A little over 5 years in the making, the Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System is made up of a staggering 592 components and features the aforementioned 2 linear weights, 1 inclined tourbillon, a circular power reserve and is a strictly limited edition model that will adorn the wrists of only 50 avid collectors. And despite its impressive albeit polarizing appearance, the MP10 is actually a very practical watch… relatively speaking, anyway.

“A little over 5 years in the making, the Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System is made up of a staggering 592 components and features 2 linear weights, 1 inclined tourbillon, a circular power reserve and is a strictly limited edition model that will adorn the wrists of only 50 avid collectors”

In place of hands, the MP-10 employs four constantly rolling displays that provide a practical, intuitive digital time indication. It is comprised of the hours and minutes under an invisible magnifying glass at the upper middle of the display; and the circular power reserve with a very clear green and red zone at the lower middle of the display.

Another unusual bit on this watch is the suspended tourbillon/running seconds located at the bottom of the watch. It is formed from a monobloc of aluminum, but more importantly, is inclined at a 35° angle. True, we’ve seen a horizontally mounted tourbillons from Hublot before. The difference here is the 35° tilt, a patent for which is pending, and which allows a better view of the animation of the tourbillon. And in case it still isn’t obvious by now, the MP-10 has no dial! In fact, the movement IS the dial. As is the case of many in the Hublot MP stable, the HUB9013 movement here is the star of the show and makes up most of the near 600 components that make up the MP-10.

Feeling and (let’s be honest) looking like something from avant-garde watchmaker, Urwerk, rather than another Hublot Big Bang, the uniquely shaped, architectural and three-dimensional MP-10 could not accommodate a traditional oscillating weight. Instead, the main structure that accommodates the various time displays at the middle is flanked by two sliding gold weights with matte black decoration that are mounted on rails. The right weight displays the brand name, while the left weight has the model name engraved on it.

Both these weights slide up and down (forward and backward) to wind the movement bidirectionally and give the MP-10 a power reserve of more than 48 hours. Further, to prevent them from crashing into the banking, the watchmakers developed a system of shock absorbers incorporated into the rails, a patent for which is also pending. The watch can also be wound manually via the crown at 12 o'clock, while the time is set using a second crown located on the case-back to preserve the fluidity of the design.

Needless to say, the exterior of the MP-10 is on par with the HUB9013 movement. Though we cannot stress enough how the elegant and rounded curves soften the space age feel of the overall composition. Still, forget trying to slide the MP-10 under your cuff, it won’t fit: this 41.5mm wide, 22.4mm thick bad boy with 54.1mm long lug-to-lug distance demands to be noticed!

And even if the construction of the two-part case (middle and case-back) in shiny micro-blasted titanium is relatively simple, the sapphire crystal atop it is anything but, and is in fact, Hublot's most complex sapphire crystal to date combining inclined planes on three axes to offer views of

the movement’s various intricacies. The same applies to the integrated rubber strap fitted with a titanium folding buckle. It is the most refined ever designed by the Manufacture and is bolted on to the MP-10 via a total of 8 screws at the top and bottom sandwiching the micro-blasted case.

Obviously, the Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System is not for everyone… figuratively and literally given its limited edition status of only 50 pieces. Still, it is one of the most inspired and wearable Hublot MP models to come in a while, and we can only hope that Hublot has plans to release it in other materials some time in the future.

Words by Katherine Cunanan

WHAT IS BETTER THAT 2 PATEKS? NOTHING.

TWICE AS NICE

We often look at the Patek Philippe Nautilus as a men’s watch that has become an amazingly desired piece as watches took the interest of more mainstream buyers. In reality the watch was, from day one, a very well-designed and wellproportioned piece that had all the right touches for a wide range of wrists. The watch was and is way more than the hype. It was meant to be exactly what someone wanted.

An excellent example of this philosophy of providing the Patek Philippe DNA and history in a way that answers specific requests are the two watches here, which are Ladies’ Nautilus pieces. Yes, two of them.

Many question why Patek Philippe offers quartz watches, and when the magazine first spoke with Mr. Stern about this many years ago, his answer was very straightforward. For a special and elegant watch for ladies’ that may see use somewhat irregularly, it was troublesome for them

to set the time after everything else was done. Clothes, makeup, jewelry and yes, nails. The use of quartz movements makes the watch easier to use, simply slip it on. No need to wind it or adjust it. And the quartz movements are finished to the same high levels as those of Patek Philippe mechanical pieces, as you would of course expect.

The two new watches kind of inhabit different worlds though. As a member of the Nautilus line, they are excellent daily wear watches, but they are also slim and very well finished precious metal and diamonds and so just right for most elegant evening events.

The watches are also rather colorful, with faces of lacquered purple with a wave design. So, depending on who you are, these watches could realistically be worn regularly as casual playful pieces. With case diameters of 23.9mm and height of just 6.9mm the watches are visually light and fresh-looking. The cases are of rose gold, though, so there is a nice weight to them. The rose gold is a delicate and feminine touch.

The Ladies’ Nautilus has been around for a while, it was first a smaller version of the

And the quartz movements are finished to the same high levels as those of Patek Philippe mechanical pieces, as you would of course expect.

gentleman’s watch, but it’s fit actually had the company release a version for men that was slightly smaller than the original. The Ladies’ Nautilus has gotten different movements and different complications, and has become bejeweled and increasingly colorful.

The watches we see here, the Ladies’ Nautilus in a 32mm case and gem set bezel and using a quartz movement, are part of the family originally launched in 2013. It is now brought forth in a new color, a purple hue in lacquer on a wave pattern familiar to those who know the watch and the maison. The striking shade appears as well on the composite strap model.

The watch, while quite striking, keeps the needed legibility. Alpha-style hour and minute hands are in rose gold with a white luminescent coating that is elegant while providing excellent contrast against the purple. The ogival-shaped hour markers and the Arabic 12 and 6 are the same. The ogival shape, for those of us not so architecturallyinclined, is the ogive or ogival arch, is a pointed Gothic arch. The sleek seconds hand moves smoothly over all. The date window at 3 o’clock is

framed by an applied rose gold surround.

And the diamonds. 46 Top Wesselton Pure brilliant-cut diamonds (0.8 ct) sit on, or in, the rose gold bezel that is the familiar portholeinspired shape. All this sits atop the rose gold case with its alternating satin-brushed and polished finishing.

The two watch models are so similar, you might think they are twins. But they would be fraternal twins, not identical. And the difference lies in the strap. For the Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus (reference no. 7010/1R-013) model, the strap is a bracelet in rose gold, just like the case, and it has a patented fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system. The Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus (reference no. 7010R-013) model, on the other wrist, I mean, hand, has a strap of purple composite material with a fabric pattern, and a Nautilus fold-over clasp.

These models are welcome additions to the Ladies’ Nautilus line. Each one of the Patek Philippe Ladies’ Nautilus is fully deserving to be on the wrist of the most deserving lady, one that likes purple, rose gold, and diamonds.

7010R-013

7010/1R-013

The AIKON is Maurice Lacroix’s best selling collection. Although it was first released in 2016, its roots date back to the 1990s, when the brand first released their Calypso watches. The Calypso gained popularity with its distinct six “claw” bezel, a design cue that is now associated with the current AIKON line. The Calypso was successful, not only for its looks, but also for its price and quality.

Inspired by the Calypso, Maurice Lacroix released the AIKON in 2016. It embraced the urban styling of its predecessor and was equipped with the innovative Easy Strap Exchange System, an ingenious feature providing owners versatility.

AIKON wristwatches are crafted from high-quality materials, such as stainless steel, titanium, or PVD coating, ensuring durability and a luxurious look. Each watch is meticulously crafted with a focus on detail and precision. Variants on the AIKON line include three-hand watches, date models, and chronographs. It offers a modular design with its Easy Strap Exchange System, enabling the owner to change straps easily according to their preference and needs. The AIKON has been awarded several prestigious design awards, and because of this, gained great popularity worldwide.

This year, Maurice Lacroix is pleased to unveil the AIKON PVD which is offered in two variants, both limited to 888 pieces each. One version is presented in midnight blue, and the other in gunmetal grey.

The midnight blue version is made of blue PVD-plated stainless steel. It measures 39 mm in diameter and has a height of 11 mm. The bezel features the AIKON’s distinctive six “claw” design, the collection’s signature. The screw-down crown allows the case to be water resistant to 200 meters. The blue dial is decorated with a clous de Paris motif. The hour markers and hands are rhodiumplated and contains white super-luminova.

BREAKING THE URBAN SCENE WITH BLUE AND GREY

Words by Bert Casal

“THEY DELIVER SWISS QUALITY, PRECISE, WEARER COMFORT, AND HIGH PERCEIVED VALUE, ATTRIBUTES THAT HAVE LED TO THE COLLECTION’S EXTRAORDINARY SUCCESS.”

The front glass is made of sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating to provide clarity and legibility. The open case back is also fitted with a sapphire glass with a special engraving. The Calibre ML115 is visible through this glass. This automatic movement displays the hours, minutes and seconds. It has a power reserve of 38 hours and has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It comes with a blue rubber strap that features the Maurice Lacroix “m” logo and is fastened by a pin buckle.

The grey version is made of gunmetal PVDplated stainless steel. The case measures 42 mm in diameter and has a height of 11 mm. As with all AIKON watches, the bezel features the eye-catching six “claw” design. The front glass is made of sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. The case back glass is also made of sapphire crystal but with a special engraving. The gunmetal dial is decorated with

a clous de Paris motif. The hour markers and hands are matte black-plated and contain superluminova. It has a screw down crown that gives the case a water resistance of 200 meters.

As with the blue version, the gunmetal variant carries the automatic calibre ML115 with a power reserve of 38 hours and has a frequency of 28,800 vph. The movement is decorated with perlage and Colimaçon. The rotor, on the other hand, has a Côtes de Genève decor. The Maurice Lacroix “m” logo appears on the black rubber strap and has a pin buckle as well.

The AIKON collection has proved a huge success for the luxury marque and is offered in an array of sizes, colors, and materials. Upholding this creative spirit, Maurice Lacroix is proud to add these two models. As with all AIKON models, they deliver Swiss quality, precise, wearer comfort, and high perceived value, attributes that have led to the collection’s extraordinary success.

Words by Katherine Cunanan

Pink is the New Happy

The Chopard Happy Sport has been an in-demand timepiece since it was first introduced back in 1993. This was the first watch creation by Chopard Artistic Director and Co-president Caroline Scheufele, and she dared to do what no one else had done yet at the time – combine diamonds and steel. Diamonds are a symbol of luxury and elegance. Steel is a symbol of sturdiness and function. How could these two elements come together successfully? Quite happily, it turns out.

The combination of diamonds and steel was a winning one and the Happy Sport has seen several iterations over the last three decades. The common thread in these watches is the elegance and playfulness. The watch is at once

sophisticated and joyful, yet never boring or stodgy. The materials may change a bit, the color palette may be tweaked but the constant is those Happy diamonds. How else would you describe a watch with sparkling diamonds seeming to float freely within the case?

Who chooses the Happy Sport, you might ask. The watch was designed for ‘women who make bold strides towards embracing their destiny.’ The watch is iconic in its classic design and brilliant diamonds. The design aspect of the diamonds loose and free within the case is both bold and youthful. The diamonds signify freedom and flight, and remind you of the joie de vivre we should all have.

The overall aesthetic has stayed the same. This is not the first foray of the Happy Sport into the delicate end of the color spectrum for the dial though. The previously released models had

pastel hues too, specifically a light sky blue and light mint green. This time around, the beautiful light pink makes its appearance on the dial. Pink shows confidence, femininity, and compassion. And it makes us Happy.

The Chopard Happy Sport models released recently are in either 30mm or 36 mm, both in Lucent Steel™. Some maisons choose to commission a specific metal to meet their exacting standards. Perhaps they want a metal with more hardness or durability. Maybe they are after a specific shade of the metal that will set it part from other metals. Or possibly even the desire for exclusivity is behind the wish for a trademarked alloy. In this case, Chopard wanted a metal that was purely incandescent. This metal could be perfect on its own, with a quality that made it seem to shine. Or it could be a fitting complement to certain gems.

The Lucent Steel™ alloy was released in 2019 with Chopard Alpine Eagle line. The metal was as luminous and incandescent as expected, with the plus factor that it was anti-allergenic. The hardy steel alloy is made of 80% recycled materials, which makes this a good choice for the environment too. There is substance here, not just flash, as Chopard has an on-going initiative for sustainable luxury. Chopard began using Lucent Steel™ in other collections in 2023, and we are, yes, happy that the Happy Sport collection is one of them.

Happy at 30

The round case continues with the Chopard Happy Sport (reference no. 278590-3012), at 30mm in diameter and just under 10mm thickness. This size watch model has three Happy diamonds living within the case, and one pink sapphire on the crown. The pink dial has the sunburst pattern, subtly adding depth to the dial. The 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock are marked with rhodium-plated numerals, while the other hours have simple batons. Bringing the whole look together are the cone-shaped hours and minutes hand and the slender sweep-seconds hand, all also in rhodium-plating.

The Happy Sport 30 watch has a quartz movement for the hours, minutes, and seconds functions. The case, bezel, bracelet, and folding clasp are all in Lucent Steel™. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal and a solid back that is engraved.

“Pink shows confidence, femininity, and compassion. And it makes us Happy.”

Happy at 36

The Chopard Happy Sport (reference no. 278582-3009) has a bit more to offer than the 30mm model, and we don’t just mean the case size. The thickness increased slightly too, to 10.45mm. The pink sunburst dial is the same delicate color, again complemented by a pink sapphire on the crown. The hours, minutes, and sweep-seconds hands also have rhodium-plating. The hour markers have the same treatment too –rhodium-plating. There is a square date window, set in nicely in between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers. Best of all, there is a little more dazzle here, with five Happy diamonds instead of three. The Happy Sport 36 watch also has a quartz movement for the hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions. Just as in the 30mm model, the case, bezel, bracelet, and folding clasp are all in Lucent Steel™. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, with a glare-proofed sapphire crystal and a solid back that is engraved.

Posh Like Beckham

Words by Kit Payumo

Posh Spice gives fashion wings to the Breitling Chronomat

Victoria Caroline Beckham, also known as Posh Spice, is an English singer, fashion designer, and television personality who rose to fame in the 1990s as a member of the girl group the Spice Girls. The group was one of the best-selling all-female groups of all time, selling over 100 million records worldwide. And even after the Spice Girls parted ways in 2001, Beckham was still a mover and shaker on the music charts after her self-titled debut solo album produced two UK Top 10 singles.

She has been married to football superstar David Beckham since 1999, and since then has become an internationally recognized style icon and fashion designer, participating (at first) in some very high-profile collaborations with other brands before launching her own self-named label in 2008. Fuelled by a longtime obsession with design and art, an authentic and meticulous attention to detail, and a distinctly luxurious sensibility that ignites the imagination, the transition from designer muse to Creative Director of her own brand was a natural one.

By 2011, Victoria Beckham Ltd. had grown into a fixture of the New York Fashion Week with her collection of outfits being celebrated for their cut and fit. Indeed, in many fashion circles the Victoria Beckham line is considered the basis of the modern woman’s wardrobe. With influences from the worlds of art and film, the Victoria Beckham brand is defined by a “tailored” blend of classic British luxury with a subtle contemporary flair, resulting in immaculately cut tailoring, dresses, denim, and separates, with signature touches in the form of off-kilter prints, modern cuts and color palettes.

“Victoria Beckham is a brand that defines modern and quiet luxury,” noted Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “Everything is considered and elevated, but with an ease that can be worn from day to night.”

This February, Beckham proved once again that she isn’t just a WAG (Wife And Girlfriend of a professional athlete) with yet another design conquest: the Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham collection, a new line of Breitling Chronomat timepieces that Posh Spice had, shall we say, a hand in modifying.

“A 36mm Breitling sports watch made perfect for women who want the best of both worlds: fashion and function while still being a Breitling Chronomat through and through”

FEATURE

“The Chronomat is already a versatile watch with a classic form,” commented Kern on the partnership. “With Victoria Beckham’s signature style, this collection is a modern radiant expression of that timepiece.”

Limited to just 1,500 pieces, the Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham collection is the result of a one-of-a-kind collaboration between the watchmaker and the celebrated fashion house creative director. But we’re not talking major changes here but the subtle, near masculine and always fashionable kind of aesthetic that the

Victoria Beckham fashion house is known for. This means Beckham’s Chronomat additions are understated to say the least but add “that little bit extra” to make it just a bit more distinct.

“It was a real exchange,” revealed Beckham. “Working closely with Breitling’s expert craftsmanship and know-how and bringing in my aesthetic was exciting.”

The result is a 36mm Breitling sports watch made perfect for women who want the best of both worlds: fashion and function while still being a Breitling Chronomat through and through that not

only retains the classic Chronomat features like the raised rider tabs at every 15-minute mark, but also the Chronomat’s signature rouleaux bracelet.

This also means that Beckham’s watch retains that chunky Breitling heft, something that fits with Posh Spice’s personal style. “Typically, I do like a more masculine watch,” said Beckham. “But one that does have a sense of femininity, a sense of elegance.”

What distinctly defines the Victoria Beckham collection in a subtly masculine, yet feminine way is the choice of either stainless steel or yellow gold for the cases, the latter revived by Breitling specifically for this collection, as well as new dial colors inspired by Beckham’s own Spring/ Summer 2024 palette. These include peppermint, midnight blue, dove gray, and sand.

Separating the collection even further is the Victoria Beckham initials that act as a counterweight on the seconds hand. These also have the added benefit of playing against the Breitling logo on the dial. The limitation “One of 400” is also referenced on the dials of each of the stainless steel variants; while “One of 100” signify each of the gold pieces. And did we mention the subtle VB log and inscription on the rouleaux bracelet?

“This is the perfect watch for women who are looking for something versatile,” said Beckham. “It’s elevated and chic but still has a relaxed feel to it. The mix of masculine and feminine has always been how I like to dress myself, and I am quite a minimalist at heart.”

The Breitling/Victoria Beckham Chronomat is powered by the self-winding Breitling Calibre 10 with approximately 42 hours of power reserve. It features a date window at 6 o’clock, and being a Breitling, is (naturally) COSC certified.

“We are predominantly a male brand but why should we close ourselves towards 50% of the market?” asked a very transparent George Kern. “…We want to be the cool and relaxed alternative in this male (dominated) market and we want to have the same positioning with women's watches. (A) relaxed alternative to the very conservative and classic Swiss watchmaking.”

For now, the Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham limited edition comes in a specially designed co-branded box with the gold variants also coming with a co-branded travel pouch. But who knows what the future holds? The Victoria Beckham brand is a major player in the fashion industry and if this collaboration with Breitling takes off who knows what could be in store for Victoria Beckham?

Words by Bert Casal

Oris and Marylebone Cricket Club collaborate on a limited edition bronze version of the Big Crown Pointer Date.

Father Time

Father Time is a personification of time. He is depicted as an old, bearded man dressed in a robe and carrying a scythe. Time is an essential element in any sport, whether trying to post the fastest time, or playing within a specified amount of it.

The Lord’s Cricket Ground in London is the home of Marylebone Cricket Club. At Lord’s, there is a clock tower overlooking the pitch. Atop sits a weathervane that has the outline of Father Time. It is one of the most famous and iconic images in the world of cricket.

The story of the Father Time weathervane began in the 1920s when Sir Herbert Baker, the

architect of Lord’s Second Grand Stand, gifted it to the ground’s owners — Marylebone Cricket Club — to apologize for the late completion of the building project. Father Time, a cast iron figure measuring almost a meter and a half and seen stooping over cricket stumps, is a mythical character said to watch over the passage of time. It is said that the image represents Law 12.3 of the Laws of Cricket which says that “After the call of Time, the bails shall be removed from both wickets.” This signals the end of the day’s play.

With this recent partnership, Oris and the Marylebone Cricket Club collaborated to come out with the Father Time Limited Edition, a watch based on the Big Crown Pointer Date. Its 40 mm case, fluted bezel and crown are made of solid, naturally aging bronze, and it comes

with both a bronze articulated bracelet and a light brown leather strap made from sustainably sourced deer leather produced by our Swiss partner Cervo Volante. The case back is stainless steel and engraved with an image of the Father Time weathervane and the limited-edition number. The watch is limited to 1,926 pieces to mark the year Father Time was gifted to Lord’s. Inside it is Oris Calibre 754, a Swiss Made automatic that equips the watch with its pointer date function, indicated by a central hand with a red, crescent-shaped tip.

Although the partnership of Oris and Marylebone Cricket Club is quite recent, the latter has never had an official timekeeper in its rich 236-year history. But what makes this partnership fit to a tee is their shared

commitment to sustainability. In the past, Oris has partnered with organizations to help the oceans and the environment to bring Change for the Better. The MCC is also doing their part to ensure that their home, Lord’s, is as environmentally friendly and sustainable as it possibly can be.

MCC has been working on this for a number of years and are one of the first sporting clubs in the world to hire a full-time sustainability manager back in 2009. Since then, they have introduced a number of measures to reduce their carbon footprint, including operating on 100% renewable electricity since 2016, with all electricity sourced from wind power, reducing single-use plastics by 1.5 million pieces, and producing zero waste that goes to landfills via

“ Oris and Marylebone Cricket Club are working side by side to bring Change for the Better.

their recycling programs since 2010. They plan to become carbon neutral by 2030 and to have net zero emissions by 2040.

Marylebone Cricket Club is the world’s most active cricket club. Like Oris, the club believes passionately in working for the benefit of its communities, both local to Lord’s and abroad. Together, they are running a diverse program for change including educational, social and sports events for the local community. MCC also co-hosted an Oris Change for the Better Day, teaming up to collect polluting plastic waste from London’s streets.

The Father Time Limited Edition celebrates the club, the game, and the goals both Oris and Marylebone Cricket Club share. Together, bringing Change for the Better.

“The BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is Bell & Ross let loose, and signifies an aesthetic direction far removed from the watchmaker’s well-trodden forays into “traditional” aeronautics.”

And to the future we are certainly propelled because this isn’t your “grandfather’s” BR-03 but a highly futuristic version of one of Bell & Ross’ signature timepieces that, for better or for worse, draws obvious parallels with the brand’s own Cyber Skull models. In fact, the casual observer will be forgiven for misidentifying this model for another of the brand’s skull-and-bones themed timepieces.

Breaking down the BR-03’s basic design language, then combining it with the Cyber collection’s graphic and futuristic codes, Bell & Ross co-founder and Creative Director, Bruno Belamich has created a singular version that elevates both collections into a single, multifaceted design that immediately evokes the powerful design of stealth aircraft.

Stealth technology, as the world has come to know, uses multi faceted surfaces made of exotic materials to deflect radar waves. Anything this technology is applied to, such as aircraft for example, results in not only said aircraft rendered all but “invisible” to radar, but also said aircraft, with its small, flat, and carefully oriented planes looking like an exercise in high-tech origami. The result is both futuristic and visually arresting, the very things that the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is.

Indeed, the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is Bell & Ross let loose, and signifies an aesthetic direction far removed from the watchmaker’s well-trodden forays into “traditional” aeronautics. Instead, the new BR-03’s unique quality lies in its aforementioned faceting, which, when pushed further, progressed into also developing the presentation of the piece: specifically, into skeletonizing the dial and the main components of the self-winding BR-CAL.383 movement.

The result is a highly contemporary interpretation of the iconic “spirit of aviation” BR-03 that eschews the round cockpit instrument conceit of the original and re-engineered into something that will not look out of place in the Cyber collection. It’s new two-piece matte black ceramic case, measuring 42mm x 43.7mm employs the same design aesthetic as stealth aircraft to redefine the brand’s signature round dial inside a square case into a true eight-sided structure.

STEALTH FIGHTER

Bell & Ross propels us into the future with the BR-03 CYBER CERAMIC

Words by Kit Payumo

Naturally, the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is colored a stealthy black, which paradoxically is as discreet as it is distinct, with ceramic as far removed from traditional precious materials as a B-17 Flying Fortress is from a B-2 stealth bomber. Further, every line and sharp edge of the ceramic construct and movement is made more distinct with diamond powder, resulting in a captivating three-dimensional effect.

The front and back sapphire crystals that offer clear views into the interior of the watch only enhances this effect. The underside of the dial side crystal, by the way, is affixed with twelve metallic indices and the B&R logo also made of ceramic. Most of the components of the self-winding BR-CAL.383 movement are grey and finished in matte black coating, while the hour and minute hands are in a lighter grey and emit a bright green glow in the dark with grey SuperLumiNova. Probably the most distinct component of the movement, however, is the turbine-like barrel cover, which speaks to the brand's links with aviation. Finally, the specially designed BR rubber strap is integrated seamlessly into the case, creating a seamless whole that promises a comfortable fit despite the watch’s size.

Only time will tell if the BE-03 Cyber Ceramic will be accepted as a true Bell & Ross timepiece. But if the popularity of the brand’s own Cyber collection is any indication it probably will.

The Sport Watch

The brand from La Côte-aux-Fées revives an 80s icon

Of Royalty

Words by Kit Payumo

egular readers of Calibre are undoubtedly familiar with how a certain “reversible” luxury watch has become synonymous with “the sport of kings,” otherwise known as the game of Polo. But what many people may have forgotten is that another watch from another very well known luxury watchmaker put their own indelible stamp on timepieces inspired by the sport of kings. That watchmaker is Piaget, which made waves early this February when it introduced a revival of the original Polo, a watch that it launched way back in 1979 and that became part of the luxury sports watch revolution of the 1980s.

RIt should be noted that this isn’t another iteration of the modern Piaget Polo that the brand launched just in 2016, but is in fact a nod to the original audaciously all-gold, water-resistant sports watch powered by the manufacture’s ultra-thin quartz caliber 7P, all of which indelibly tied Piaget to the game of Polo. Unlike that other more luxury oriented “reversible” polo watch we previously mentioned, however, the original Piaget Polo looked like the epitome of a luxury sports watch from the get go.

During the 1980s, the steel-made Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was the standard bearer that defined the steel luxury sports watch category. The Piaget Polo, however, was altogether different by being made of an entirely precious metal to further reinforce the brand’s status as a jewellerwatchmaker, and was designed with a singular aesthetic to make it stand out like no other watch in the category (yes, even Genta’s other masterpiece the Patek Philippe Nautilus).

Clad entirely in 18k yellow gold, not only did it make the integrated bracelet, which became an emblem of the era of sporting luxury, a part of its mystique, but the Piaget Polo also integrated a series of polished gold horizontal elements called gadroons that “sectioned” its brushed golden skin in a repeating pattern that enveloped the entirety of the watch from the case, dial and bracelet. This set the Piaget Polo apart from every other integrated sports watch in the industry.

Originally designed by Yves Piaget, the head of the 4th generation of the Piaget controlling family and direct descendant of founder, GeorgesÉdouard Piaget, the original Polo was inspired by Yves’ love for equestrian and luxury, ultimately combining the two in the iconic Piaget Polo. So famous was the watch during its heyday, in fact, that the Polo was famously photographed being worn by celebrities of the time. Namely, by Bond girl Ursula Andress at, appropriately enough, polo matches, and the likes of Andy Warhol, Nancy Sinatra, Roger Moore, and Miles Davis as they partied all through the night outside of the polo field, specifically in Studio 54.

Indeed, the term “beautiful people” was coined largely due to the elegant and luxurious lifestyle that became synonymous with the 4th generation of the Piaget family under Yves Piaget. Piaget events, in fact, became the place to be, and was precisely in one of these high society events where the Piaget Polo came to be.

“We really had to answer to this particular demand of our customers who are used to getting just dress watches,” said Yves Piaget at the time. “But now our customers like to do more and more sports. That’s part of the evolution of our lives today. They want to be exquisite, even in sports. They want to wear a better watch, even in their sports. So we created this sports line which is waterproof, and shockproof.”

This year, a full 45 years after its debut, the watch that would help define the spirit and elegance of the 1980s has been reborn in the Piaget Polo 79. An update of the original in every way, the Polo 79 maintains the same signature “equestrian-chic” aesthetic that made it so distinct in the first place. The result, might we say, is stunning, because its an update done right, and it successfully brings the Piaget Polo into the modern era.

The most significant update of which is the use of Piaget’s own ultra-thin caliber 1200P1. That’s right, the watchmakers have eschewed the quartz movement for the same automatic, micro-rotor movement that presently powers a whole slew of ultra-thin Altiplano models. Despite the movement’s industry-setting ultra-thin dimensions of only 29.9mm x 2.35mm in height, however, the rather copious amount of nearly 200 grams of yellow gold in the case, bracelet, dial and hands of the 38mm by 7.35mm Polo 79 has translated into a bigger, thicker, and less elegant watch than the original.

But who cares? It’s the fit and overall finish that stands out here. Indeed, the satin finish that makes up the entirety of the case, dial and bracelet is to die for, especially how it contrasts with the polished gadroons and bevels that extend into the gold bracelet and its edges. And with the bracelet tapering to a perfectly hidden deployant clasp so as not to disturb the gadroon and link pattern, the golden Polo 79 is one impressive piece of time telling jewelry.

As before, the trademark gadroons continue into the 18k yellow-gold dial, which features a tone-on-tone minute track of pearl-like dots with varying sizes that work as hour and minute markers, as well as elegant dauphine-style hands also made out of the same yellow gold.

The bracelet, on the other hand, seems to integrate into the case better than ever creating

An update of the original in every way, the Polo 79 maintains the same signature “equestrian-chic” aesthetic that made it so distinct in the first place.

a visual continuity that ties the entire watch together. It is highly tactile and flexible, and even if it looks similar to the original model, has also been modernized with a “backbone” of screws on its underside that underscores its sophisticated, robust construction. A hidden triple-blade folding clasp is another modern update that eschews the original’s ladder clasp.

Undeniably beautiful with a style that speaks for itself, the Piaget Polo 79 is an extravagant piece of high-end horological jewelry that more than lives up to the original Polo’s legacy. It may be larger, thicker and heavier but it is even more lavish and elegant than ever before. It many ways it is the Piaget Polo that should have been but never was, and all we need now is a smaller sized, easier to wear model to accompany this one, maybe a 32mm model?

A POWER RESERVE TAKES CENTER STAGE

Longines reimagines a unique CONQUEST model for its anniversary.

Words by Bert Casal

This year marks the 70th anniversary of Longines’s emblematic CONQUEST collection. To celebrate this milestone, the Swiss watchmaker presents the new CONQUEST HERITAGE CENTRAL POWER RESERVE, inspired by an iconic model from the late 1950s.

Launched in 1954, the CONQUEST line was the first Longines watch to have its name protected by the Federal Intellectual Property Office in Berne, Switzerland. It was a symbol of conquest, embodying daring and creativity. In 1959, the collection welcomed its newest addition to the line, a watch with a unique power reserve indicator, which consisted of two rotating discs at the center of the dial.

“The collection was a symbol of conquest, embodying daring and creativity.”

The new CONQUEST HERITAGE CENTRAL POWER RESERVE comes in three different dials; Champagne, anthracite, or black. It comes in a 38 mm stainless steel case with a polished bezel. The date aperture is placed at the 12 o’clock position. At the center of the dial are the two rotating discs for the power reserve indicator.

Looking at the dial head on, one can already say that it is a beautifully designed watch face. But if you tilt it at an angle and look more closely, you will see incredible details that you could easily overlook at first glance. First of all, the date window isn’t just a rectangular box that encloses the date. Upon closer investigation, you will notice that the window has more depth and perspective that can only be viewed at an angle. The top two corners are tapered, creating a trapezoid shape that adds more character to

the appliqué. It also angles down towards the bottom, subliminally drawing the eye towards the Longines name just below it.

The hour markers are not just rectangular strips but bars that seem to have been sculpted with a channel down the middle. Its reflective surface plays with the light that gives off a dynamic feel. The flow of the applied hour markers are interrupted by a printed minute track. Separating the minute track from the center of the dial are grooves, or what Longines like to refer to as a thread, that reveals its depth at an angle.

The gilt hands (or skyscraper hands as others like to call them) are filled with SuperLumiNova®. The tip of the hour hand points directly at the bottom of the hour markers, while the tip of the minute hand ends where the bottom of the minute track begins.

The new timepiece is powered by a new movement especially, and exclusively, made for Longines: the Longines L896.5 calibre. This automatic winding movement is equipped with a silicon balance spring. It is lighter in weight compared to traditional steel balance springs, it will not rust, and it offers resistance to magnetic fields of up to ten times greater than the ISO 764 benchmark standard. This calibre beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour and offers up to 72 hours of power reserve.

The CONQUEST HERITAGE CENTRAL POWER RESERVE does not have a screw down crown, but with its screw down case back, it

offers a 50 meter water resistance. It is possible, however, to wind the movement with the crown at position 0 and watch as the power reserve (the outer disc) increases as the indicator turns counter clockwise. When the reserve is full, the printed gilt hand on the inner disc will turn together with the outer disc.

The glass is made of scratch resistant sapphire crystal with several layers of anti-reflective coating on both sides. The edge of the glass slopes down to subtly transition to the outer case, a meticulous detail appreciated by enthusiasts. The

CONQUEST HERITAGE CENTRAL POWER

RESERVE is available with black or grey leather straps, fitted with a new steel pin buckle.

Longines has pioneered many technical advances and still displays an unfailing will to innovate. Its constant pursuit of excellence has led them to equip all its automatic timepieces with cutting edge movements whose features include a silicon balance spring. Its unique properties boost the watch’s precision and longevity and allow Longines to guarantee these models for 5 years.

L1.648.4.78.2

L1.648.4.52.2

L1.648.4.62.2

CLASSIQUE BEAUTY

Breguet brings us

two new

tourbillons

Words by Katherine Cunanan

The tourbillon is always a fascinating mechanism to see. It is in constant motion, all while safely in the special cage built for it, small enough to be inside a watch case. A man once realized that because pocket watches were kept in, well, pockets and usually in the same position or orientation, the force of the Earth’s gravity impacted the pocket watch’s functioning in a detrimental way. We all like gravity, because it keeps us firmly and safely on the planet, but the downside is it can hurt some mechanisms, like the watch movement. So a solution was needed to avoid the errors resulting from gravity’s impact. And what a solution it was, the tourbillon.

And what a man he was, Abraham Louis Breguet. Thanks to his brilliant mind and watchmaking expertise, he saw a concern and sought a way to fix it, in the most captivating way possible. Thanks to him, the tourbillon was born in June of 1801. The escapement was housed in a small cage, or carriage, and it completed a full rotation each minute. The constant and predictable movement within its mobile carriage thus cancelled out the ill effects of gravity. A side benefit is that the constant change in position caused better lubrication for the mechanism, which meant the whole thing worked even better. How could something meant to avoid errors be so beautiful? Would that all solutions were such.

CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon collection introduced two new models recently. The new models continue with the aesthetic of the collection — neoclassical style coupled with ease of reading the time. Both the recent models measure 35mm in diameter, and come in at just under 10mm in thickness. The watches have the hours and minutes functions, and of course, the tourbillon.

The tourbillon movement within these two new models is the 187 D mechanism, with a balance operating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz. It is a handwound movement with a 50-hour power reserve. The calibre has the steel Breguet balance-spring with a handcrafted Breguet terminal curve. Both models have a sapphire case back, so the tourbillon can be viewed in all its splendor, including the hammered and hand-engraved work on it.

Each watch model has lots and lots of dazzling diamonds. There are diamonds on the dial, in different ways, and diamonds on the bezel and lugs too. The crown is also set with a rose-cut diamond. Each model has an alligator leather strap with a triple folding clasp set with 42 diamonds. The Classique models are waterresistant to a depth of 30 meters.

THE BLUE SKY

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon with model reference 3358BB/VD/986D0 is a picture of perfection in classic blue and white. The case is in 18k white gold, and the dark blue mother-of-pearl dial is peppered with stars in either white gold that has been sand-blasted and polished, or (even better) with diamonds in the center. The blue model has the alligator leather strap in a blue that matches the dial.

The off-center chapter ring at the 12 o’clock has Arabic numerals, except for the 4 and 6. A close look at the 4 o’clock spot will reveal an Easter egg of sorts – the serial number. The Breguet name is also seen on the dial, along with five shiny stars and the rhodium-plated white gold Breguet hands. The 6 o’clock spot is taken by the beautiful tourbillon. And perfectly fitting for a night-sky theme, there is a shooting star that seems to streak across the sky, and it is set with 45 snow-set diamonds. The blue spinel in the middle of the streak is a nice touch, and it serves a function too — it is the pivoting stone for the tourbillon carriage. Another example of something functional made beautiful.

POWERFUL RED, AND A LOT MORE DIAMONDS

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon with model reference 3358BR/8D/986D0 is a wonderful study in red and diamonds. The 18k rose gold case model has a dial richly adorned with diamonds — 281 of them, to be very specific. The chapter ring at the 12 o’clock is in natural white mother-of-pearl, and has the same Arabic numerals as the blue model. The serial number is here too, at the 4 o’clock, but it seems to get lost amidst the sea of diamonds, which is not exactly a bad thing (who says ‘no’ to more diamonds?). The hands here are also in the Breguet style. The diamonds within the chapter ring are in the snowsetting style, while diamonds outside the chapter ring range in size with the largest ones placed closest to the chapter ring.

The tourbillon once again takes the 6 o’clock spot. Keeping with red and gold palette, there is a gold bar, set in diamonds, across the tourbillon aperture, and a red gem in the center. The red ties in nicely with the rose gold case. The alligator leather strap is in red, also a fitting complement to the rose gold of the case.

ELEGANCE

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358 models are a testament to the maison’s commitment to elegance and innovation. Abraham Louis Breguet’s visionary creation continues to awe and inspire watch lovers.

“The new models continue with the aesthetic of the collection — neoclassical style coupled with ease of reading the time.”

The Swiss Weekend: In the Land of Watchmakers

The view of Lucerne from the Château Gütsch.

Words and photos by Jose Martin V. Ursúa

Château Gütsch, seen from the streets of Lucerne.

Grandhotel Giessbach

Jungfrau Railway

Switzerland

o environments shape national traits? Is there something about Switzerland’s topography — its lakes, mountains, and meadows — that makes it fertile ground for horological pursuits? My first trip to Switzerland was 16 years ago, and it has captivated me ever since. I was on a driving tour, winding counter-clockwise through the Alps, with the informal goal of traversing as many mountain passes as I could in one month. That was in the middle of summer, and I cannot remember anything so staggeringly beautiful as standing in the grassy middle of Lauterbrunnen Valley, beneath waterfalls spilling from impossibly tall cliffs, upon which sat picturesque villages. I knew that I would be back, but I regret that it has taken this long to book a return trip. Especially considering that my passion for wristwatches really only started after that grand journey.

You would think that, surely, I must have made the pilgrimage to SIHH or Baselworld by now. However, I honestly can’t imagine that being my primary motivation for traveling to Switzerland. I love watches, but squinting at novelties in crowded halls is not something I dream about. Also, I didn’t much care for the blandly European feel of Geneva on my first trip, and much preferred the distinctive Swissness of Zürich and the dramatic scenery around Interlaken and the Bernese Alps. So this time I resolved to find a link between the harsh terrain and the confederation’s excellence in the field of watchmaking. Surely it’s more than historical happenstance that caused Switzerland’s rise after the waning of English and American horological supremacy. Is it something in the mountain air?

A January business conference in Amsterdam gave me the opportunity for a quick weekend jaunt before I headed back home. I had never experienced winter in Europe before, and looked forward to a snow-dusted wonderland. That would remain an unfulfilled dream, as an extraordinarily warm February meant spring-like walks along Lake Brienz (far more popular now thanks to K-drama Crash Landing on You) and unusually dry mountain passes that were open

for traffic. I booked a hotel in Lucerne, one of the highlights from my previous trip. I remember it being a proper city that nevertheless felt like a large, pretty town. Its size was just right. I flew into Zürich, met an old friend for lunch, and mentioned my plan to see the snowy peaks — Mt. Titlis, specifically, as I could be there and back in 2-3 hours. He strongly recommended that I instead visit Jungfraujoch, the famed saddle formed between the peaks of Mt. Jungfrau and Mt. Mönch, which was a bit farther but worth the extra effort, he assured me. After lunch, I drove my rented Renault Clio to the 19th century Château Gütsch, on a hilltop overlooking Lucerne. Each morning from my window, I was treated to a spectacular view of the entire city, from the medieval western wall all the way to Lake Lucerne and Mt. Rigi beyond. The Château has a private funicular that crawls down the hill to the heart of Lucerne, with just a further

Sphinx Observatory

5-minute walk to the medieval wooden bridge (Kapellbrücke) that zig-zags over the river Reuss. This was an early glimpse of the Swiss mechanical prowess that would define my trip.

Perhaps surprisingly, there are no watchmakers based in Lucerne, aside from the recent addition of Chronoswiss, transplanted from Bavaria. The big hometown hero is watch and jewelry giant Carl F. Bucherer, now in the process of being acquired by Rolex. Behind the centrally located Bucherer flagship store in Schwanenplatz are boutiques for Rolex, Omega, Breitling, and many other brands. The sad reality of globalization means that the selection here is practically identical to watch shops in any other city with well-heeled consumers. (In fact, you might have better luck finding a unique special edition in Singapore.) I also learned a long time ago that these watches are definitely not cheaper in Switzerland, so I was limited to window shopping.

The watch boutiques of Lucerne.

Château Gütsch

Grandhotel Giessbach

Jungfraujoch

Snowcat

Eiger Express

I slept very well that first night. So well, in fact, that it was 11AM by the time I’d finished a late breakfast. The sun was blazing, and I felt irresponsible to not already be on my way to Jungfraujoch. Sunny days and clear skies are rare gifts, and many alpine excursions have been ruined by a bit of cloud. Still, I felt that I’d missed my chance for that day, and instead explored the charming spots around Interlaken: Giessbach Falls, Iseltwald, and a return drive through Lauterbrunnen. I would have wanted to relive my time in Lauterbrunnen, but there was not a single free parking spot. I spent several hours hiking the trails around the Grandhotel Giessbach and its adjacent waterfall. Built in 1873, this landmark was best known to me from Band of Brothers, arguably the best series ever made about World War II in Europe. In the final episode, the men of Easy Company enter post-war Austria and relax in what is supposed to be the resort town of Zell Am See. While Austria is indeed stunning, I have a feeling that the cinematographer needed a higher density of splendor in frame, and only Switzerland can deliver that. Unroll a map of Europe, and Switzerland is like its tiny Grinch-like heart. It is compact, but like a crinkled-up piece of aluminum

foil, there is a lot of surface area on the vertical axis. The scenery is stunning, but there is always a hint that the Swiss conquered their surroundings long ago: Vehicles, electrical lines, people. At no point do you feel as if you are first person to set foot anywhere in the country. So it was for the socalled Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch.

I was up before the dawn on my final day. My return flight to Amsterdam was leaving Zürich that evening, so I needed to ensure that my timing was perfect — on the road, up and down the mountain, and on any stop that I might make along the way. There was heavy fog on the drive through Brünig Pass, and I again feared that I might have missed my window of opportunity. Thankfully, it dissipated as the sun rose, and I made it to Grindelwald and the terminal for the Eiger Express, a cable car service that opened in 2020 and ascends 1.4km to the Eiger Glacier. As the large, 26-place gondola glided out of the station, I couldn’t help but notice how the huge winding wheels resembled the going train of a watch movement. The Eiger Express climbs to 2,328m, yet the Jungfraujoch is 3,463m up. What would come next, once the gondola arrived at a station next to the foot of the Eiger Glacier?

“There are always hints that the Swiss conquered this stunning scenery long ago: A locomotive emerges from a rock face, power cables follow a treeline, houses dot mountain peaks.”

The Jungfrau Railway perfectly encapsulates the Swiss obsession with precision, punctuality, and mechanical dominion over nature. It was the obsession of one Adolf Guyer-Zeller, a textiles industrialist who would become the pre-eminent railroad tycoon of Switzerland. During a hike with his daughter in the early 1890s, GuyerZeller had a vision of a train ride from the Kleine Scheidegg mountain pass all the way up to the 4,158m summit of Jungfrau. Construction began in 1896, with both the locals and the federal government eager to see tourist francs roll in. Dynamite had only become widely available in the 1870s, and it was clear that a lot of it would be needed to blast over 7km of tunnels through solid rock. For 16 years, roughly one hundred labourers (mostly Italian) used pickaxes and explosives in dark, airless spaces to make slow progress. With no landmarks to guide them in this dangerous place, precision and accuracy were matters of life and death. Sadly, six workers were lost in 1908 when 30 tons of dynamite accidentally exploded, and 30 in total would perish during the Jungfraubahn’s construction. Guyer-Zeller himself had died from pneumonia in 1899, several months after completion of the Eigergletscher station — the same one that the Eiger Express cable car now connects to. His heirs would continue the project as tribute to the hard-headed Eisenbahnkönig (railway king), though the terminus would now be at Jungfraujoch rather than the Jungfrau’s peak. The tired and miserable workforce had had enough. Nevertheless, Jungfraujoch remains the highest train station in Europe to this day. Ironically, it is

The landing at Iseltwald, made famous by Crash Landing on You

The Eiger Express Cable Car.

Winds blow over the peaks at Jungfraujoch.

Europe's highest train station at Jungfraujoch.

also an underground railway station, so a bit more climbing is required before you can feel the cold sunlight on your face.

The train to Jungfraujoch uses a Strub rack system, which has a geared third rail between the two running rails. This is necessary to overcome gradients that are as steep as 25%, well beyond the capabilities of regular adhesion railways. It’s a comfortable ride, but there is absolutely nothing to see but darkness. There is a 5-minute stop at Eismeer station, offering passengers a sneak peek through big windows of the glacial wonders to come. I also got an alarming preview of how difficult it can be to breathe at high altitudes. It’s not a nice feeling, so do try to slow down. Finally, I reached the end of the line. Jungfraujoch station feels like a mountain fortress, with a network of tunnels connecting a windowed complex embedded into the cliffside, the Sphinx Observatory up top, and two exits where tourists can step onto the snow and ice. The tunnels contain an illustrated history of the construction, a memorial for the fallen, and a frozen and slippery “Ice Palace.” Within the station complex are several restaurants, a Lindt “Swiss Chocolate Heaven,” and a Kirchhofer “High Time” watch shop with a selection of

Swatch Group pieces. (They really seem to be pushing the Mido Ocean Star these days.) These are all ultimately distractions.

The vistas from Jungfraujoch, resplendent in deep blues and all shades of white, brought to mind what the moonwalking Buzz Aldrin called “magnificent desolation.” But not quite: Even in this rarefied air there was evidence of the Swiss people’s mastery over their land: A Snowcat, tiny in the distance, groomed the snow field near the glacier, for hikers and the occasional light airplane. The spindly red form of a helicopter was harshly silhouetted against the blue sky as it took sightseers around the Eiger. These are harsh environments, but they have been civilized and, through sheer tyranny of will, they now follow the same rigorous schedule as the rest of Switzerland. The Swiss live in a pretty clockwork nation, its rhythms regulated like the hourly cuckoo. They make folk heroes out of marksmen who can shoot apples off a child’s head with a crossbow! Is it any wonder, then, why the Swiss take to watchmaking so readily? Before boarding the Jungfraubahn heading down, I checked the Rolex on my wrist, and calculated an itinerary from lunch until my 7PM flight. Everything for the rest of that day occurred exactly as scheduled.

The Aletsch Glacier, the largest in the Alps.

The Top of Europe.

Wristcheck of my 1972 Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675

Intelligent Seeing

INTRODUCING THE WORLD’S FIRST SMART BINOCULARS.

Words by Bert Casal

To mark their 75th anniversary, worldleading sports optic manufacturer SWAROVSKI OPTIK presents the AX Visio, the world’s first AI-supported binoculars. This product is a perfect symbiosis of high-performance analog long-range optics and digital intelligence.

With the new AX Visio, bird watching has never been more exciting. Gone are the days where bird watchers carry a book to help identify what birds they spot. The AX Visio binoculars is equipped with electronics that will identify the species in real time, having stored as much as over 9,000 species of birds in its banks.

The AX Vision 10x32 adds another dimension in birdwatching with their “Share Discoveries” function. This allows the user to guide another person to the observed object by using arrow markers in the display. The only catch is, the other person needs to be in the same vicinity (inside of a 10-foot radius) of the first person to be able to track the bird.

And here’s the kicker: you can take a photo with the binoculars by a simple press of a button. So you don’t need to lug around a heavy camera just to take a picture of that elusive bird you’ve been wanting to check off your list. The AX Visio is also capable of taking videos so you can share your discoveries with your friends and family. These photos and videos can be immediately managed and shared with a connected smartphone using the associated SWAROVSKI OPTIK Outdoor App.

“The AX Visio combines analog long range optics and digital intelligence.”

The distinctive design of the AX Visio was created by Marc Newson, a world-famous industrial designer, in collaboration with SWAROVSKI OPTIK. His key properties include ensuring a modern appearance and intuitive handling for smart binoculars, combined with an ergonomic design that feels comfortable to hold.

CEO Stefan Schwarz said: “We can draw on 75 years of experience and expertise in the development and production of high-precision sport optics. We combine this know-how and our expertise in the field of electronics with digital intelligence at our production site in the heart of Europe to create a new, pioneering product. The AX Visio is not only a flagship project with which we are demonstrating SWAROVSKI OPTIK’s technological leadership in the sport optics market, but it also marks the beginning of a new technological era for us.”

Marc Newson a world-famous industrial designer

ENJOY THE RIDE, WHEREVER THAT RIDE MAY BE

New Zealand’s North Island in the Ferrari Purosangue

Words by Carl Cunanan

South

Wellington

Hastings

Taupō

Tauranga Auckland

We really do forget it’s about the journey, don’t we?

Even as massive car guys, who love the feel of good machinery on a good road. We want that feel, that connection, that responsiveness or that power or whatever it is that draws you to the road and the road trip.

But we do want to share it.

And often, with the rather intense cars that we dearly love, we can’t exactly do that. Or often not without some serious commitment from whoever we want to travel with us. And often without the kids.

I landed in the Taupo Airport in New Zealand, after landing in the Auckland Airport just before that, with some rather large luggage. I was to take part in a multi-day, multi-stop, multi-hotel journey from one part of the North Island of New Zealand to another, at which point our chariots would be loaded onto ferries for the ride to the South Island.

Our chariots were to be a nice bunch of new Ferrari Purosangues. The four-door Ferrari of oh so much talk, of so much opinionated discussion, of so much speculation. This was going to be unlike any Ferrari drive I have done before, and with something unlike any car I have done it with before. Most Ferrari drives I have been on are either very technically-oriented track-aimed high speed drives with the wonderfully-frisky eight cylinders cars or more touring-oriented but also high speed drives with the big throaty V12s. The Purosangue has one of those wonderful V12s, positioned so far back towards the middle of the car that you only see half of it if you pop up the hood. Awesome for balance. Typical Ferrari V12 looong hood.

That’s where it all changes. After that hood, you have four doors. And four actually usable and rather comfortable seats. And when I say comfortable I mean it. It isn’t really all that easy to fall asleep in the passenger seat of most V12 Ferraris going around tight mountain roads. But it happened repeatedly to several of us. So, yes, comfortable. It was then that we would realize how different these new Ferraris actually were.

Back to the start, and the luggage. I arrived around noon, and I was driven up to the front of Kinloch Manor and Estates. A gorgeous structure overlooking some wonderful land with gorgeous views. None of which I paid attention to because there were several Purosangues parked in front being readied. So rather than enjoy the lunch they prepared overlooking that wonderful vista, I

played with cars. Popped that long hood, checked out the engine, figured out how to open the welcoming doors that throw themselves outward to make it easy to get in. Realized that the cars were higher than you would expect for Ferraris, but were svelte nonetheless. Inspected the new dual-cockpit style interior, messed with the transmission-selection gear meant to remind you of old prancing horse gated shifters. Sat in the back seat, crossed my legs, laughed that I could do so. Usual car guy stuff.

Because I missed lunch, by the way, I headed into town and found the coolest McDonalds on the planet, and had coffee in their vintage Douglas DC-3 propeller plane. And Huka Falls, which apparently draws more tourists than anywhere else in the country.

Oh yeah the luggage. Because this was such a long trip, most of us brought large bags, and because it was long in the flying-time perspective as well, we brought large cabin luggage. Which I assumed would all go into a follow vehicle. So

we had golf carts pick us up from the individual cabins the next morning and we dropped off the luggage. Whereupon they said load them into the cars. We kinda had the “are you nuts?” look I guess. The Ferrari guys said that you don’t normally travel with follow cars, right? Trust us, it will all fit. In the trunk. I had visions of my suitcase gouging a line in some very expensive leather upholstery, but guess what? It all fit! And, lo and behold, there were cup holders for all four seats, designed well enough for the environmentally-friendly multi-use plastic bottles we were bringing. Off we went.

And that was the last we saw the Purosangues clean. It started raining, and it rained throughout the week.

The Purosangue had begun the week in bright sunlight, in the very cosmopolitan and very urban Auckland. Time was spent around the marina area and amongst the typical cityscape features of most, well cities. Nice, but not what Ferraris were for.

The first leg had the four-door Ferraris bring out glances from the city dwellers before the cars and drivers set out for the hills. Beautiful coastal roads and interesting curves and bends brought the fleet to the seaside town of Tauranga for the first evening stop. The next day began early, with drives through winding roads as well as somewhat pastoral scenes as the group made its way to a stop in Rotorua, in an area known for its natural hot springs and towering forests of redwoods. The evening brought the cars together in Taupo, at a serene and very quiet set of villas.

If the first few days were somewhat coastal, what greeted us for the second leg of the tour was somewhat the opposite. Lake Taupo is the largest freshwater lake in Australasia and is basically the size of Singapore. Our base was Kinloch Manor and Estates, but we explored the area as well. The smallish town of Taupo had the vibe that combined a vacation fishing community with a tourist area, branded shops beside Maori artwork on the walls. A vintage airplane that was actually a

McDonald’s. And the waterfalls by the lake were supposed to be the biggest tourist attraction in New Zealand in terms of the number of visitors. There were also mountain biking trails waiting for those that wanted the exercise.

The driving day began early. The colorful blue and red Ferraris shone in the sunlight, but that was going to be the last time they would be clean. We packed all the luggage, two large suitcases and two cabin rollers, in the trunk of each Purosangue pretty much, with small bags of gear and snacks and water in the backseat and in the cup holders.

The rain started coming down as we made our way up the mountains. From north of Lake Taupo we went west then south around the Singaporesized body of water through Kuratau then we skirted the lower edge of the lake and headed down past Turangi. From there we went straightish south through what was rather confusingly called the desert road. If you Google this, the first thing that comes up is a reference in something called dangerous roads, and we were driving as

the rains got worse. It is high desert, between 2000 and 3300 feet above sea level, and the high winds give any plants a hard time holding on to the earth. It was at this point that I think everyone gave up on keeping the Purosangue clean. It was very interesting though, because there was nothing but confidence in running these agile cars through the wind and rain. We set the drive mode to wet and the systems made it very easy to keep traction. The desert road is in what is named Te Onetapu, and what is known as the Rangipo Desert. Besides being home to an Army Camp, an Army Testing Grounds and a prison farm, the Rangipo Desert may be known to film buffs. Think the Black Gates of Mordor scenes in the Lord Of The Rings. And there is more LOTR reference to come.

Our first stop for the day was the National Army Museum of New Zealand, which would have been wonderful to wander through if we had had more time. And if we weren’t so wet. The rain and wind coming off the high desert

made it a challenge just to get inside, especially since the convoy of cars had become spread out. Warning had been given of the strictness of local authorities, with penalties that could include confiscation of license or even car depending on how much you decided to play.

After a much-needed coffee break at the Museum we all headed back out to the cars and the wind and rain. And a herd of cows. We were all stopped on a mountain road as a herd of cattle walked just to the right of our rather expensive string of Ferraris, with a little (littler but still large) calf walking to our right. It stopped between our car and the blue Purosangue in front of us. Something that looked like its mother started looking at it, then at our red car. I was wondering what language we should use when we started screaming “abandon Purosangue” but thankfully the little big cow (I called it sweetie) walked in front of us to join the family.

That second half of that day got more interesting but also more wet. We left the main road onto a stretch called “Gentle Annie” but

“The route was steep in rinse and fall, tight and very curvy. But this did provide, for those willing, to really test the traction abilities of these higherthan-ever Ferraris.”

really named the Taihape-Napier road, a remote rural route that connected two regions that were quite different, the Rangitikei and Bay districts. This area provided some of the best driving roads of New Zealand, but also some of the worst conditions of the day. The route was steep in rinse and fall, tight and very curvy. But this did provide, for those willing, to really test the traction abilities of these higher-than-ever Ferraris. It became increasingly fun to pitch the cars into curves and power them out. The new transmission, more electric and electronic and responsive than anything before it, had the car acting to stabilize and allowing you to put the power down effectively straightening out some tight wet corners. You could almost feel the outboard rear wheel tense up and push down so it could help you through a corner. The car was surprisingly easy to drive fast.

One of the most interesting points of the car was that after a hard day of driving, I wanted to go back out. And do the same roads again. It was a very unusual combination of power and comfort

PARALLEL PASSION

and flexibility, and with all our luggage in the back and the passenger often falling asleep when it wasn’t all curvy. We decamped at our hotel for the evening, the Porters Boutique Hotel in Hawke’s Bay.

But then some of us went right out to the Craggy Range Winery where we immediately got swamped by people taking photos of the car. That is something interesting about the car. When you drive up, it looks sleek and swoopy and every bit a Ferrari, but if you are in traffic with other cars it doesn’t pull as much attention. It isn’t lower than anything else, so in an urban environment you will see the rear before you see the long nose that houses half of the V12 (the other half is already more in the middle). The winery is a popular stop for visitors both local and global, and far more accessible than the Army Museum in the middle of high desert. An explanation of the wines and the history of the region followed.

The next day started early again, with breakfast in a popular local breakfast/coffee shop called Maina. The skies were grey but the rain didn’t

come down right away. As a result, we were able to let the V12s sing a little bit more in the open air as we headed towards the Wairarapa region. Our first stop was at the Pukaya National Wildlife Reserve, which was wonderfully eye and soul opening. We were given a tour of the facility by some excellent guides, and met some of the wildlife up close including a very popular bird called a Kōkako which had a penchant for calling men.

From there we took another long and quick drive through some farmland and hillside towards wine and vineyard country. The Runholder vineyard, winery and restaurant is a very popular destination for tourists, and apparently particularly for bachelorette parties. This is quite fun when you drive in with a bright red Ferrari. Remember though that we had run through rain and the desert road and hadn’t cleaned the cars. So it looked like we didn’t take care of beautiful things all that well.

We then took our final drive, to the southernmost point of the North Island. Tight single lane roads gave way to highways as we

approached Wellington, where we were headed to the Weta Workshop. The workshop is the production house for movie props and effects and is most recognized for the work with Sir Peter Jackson and the Lord Of The Rings films. We said goodbye, in some cases actually saying “goodbye,” to the Purosangues that had brought some very happy drives from top to bottom of New Zealand’s lovely North Island.

This was a wonderful introduction to the wonders of New Zealand, especially past the usual tourist attractions as nice as they are. We got to go deep into the countryside, the seaside, the mountainsides. We met the people and the animals, and thankfully even the herd of cattle was friendly. Our own steed of choice was a wonderful introduction as well, the four-door Ferrari Purosangue that swallowed up different types of roads, non-roads and surfaces and also took in transcontinental luggage with elegance and ease. The rear “welcome doors” were indeed welcoming for this new type of grand touring car, but the experience was nothing but prancing horse.

The Magic III

The Commander I

The Dean I

The Alternative II

Eyes, they say, are the windows to the soul.

Who hasn't fallen in love with someone who gave them a look that made then stop in their tracks?

Eyes can show a gamut of emotions, and can convey messages for which you need no words. So we need to take care of our eyes, and that includes protecting them from the elements.

Who would have thought a brand known for its automobiles could give the same quality, luxury, and individuality to eyewear?

The MAYBACH Eyewear collection is proof positive that excellence and style can be recreated in a much smaller scale. The attention to detail that we’ve come to expect in a Mercedes-Benz car is also evident in the MAYBACH pieces. These eyewear pieces are carefully and expertly crafted by hand, with only the best materials possible.

Let’s set our eyes on the collection offerings.

THE ALTERNATIVE II

This style is inspired by the 1940s and the use of natural horn accentuates the shapely frames without overshadowing the wearer. The flowing lines in this design are inspired by the swooping dashboards and fine door trim of legendary MAYBACH automobiles.

THE ARTIST III

This classic rimless frame comes in an array of temple colors. The lines are clean and exquisite, and the frame is made of a precious-plated titanium bridge. The use of wood here brings an earthy touch while still keeping it very modern. The round lens shape is fun and, yes, I’ll go there, very artistic.

THE COMMANDER I

Of course there needs to be an aviator frame in the collection, and this one has nice metal plating and ZEISS sun lenses. The elaborate construction is perfect, with a brogue pattern and an air-flow temple design, and the Maybach lettering as an added touch.

THE DEAN I

There is strength portrayed with an intense browline, and this style has it in spades. The lightweight lower rims are in platinum, and keep this style from being too heavy. There are sleek cutouts on the end pieces and temples. The MAYBACH name is also embossed on the rims. This style comes in both Italian acetate and genuine natural horn.

TAKE A CLOSER LOOK

FOCUS ON THE EYES

Words by Katherine Cunanan

THE INDEPENDENCE II

The 1970s make an appearance in this collection with this style, thanks to the full rims suited for narrower faces. Precious-plated titanium and natural horn pair well together. There is an oversized 3D Double-M logo on the temples, as the meeting point of the different materials.

THE MAGIC I

These two-tone frames are handcrafted with focus being drawn to the temples. There is a mix of extraordinary color combinations that help bring the excitement to these sun lenses. The MAYBACH logo gets special treatment, thanks to lustrous mother-of-pearl.

THE MAGIC III

These frames and sun lenses bring a balanced look by partnering the two-tone wood with strong end pieces. The ultralight titanium is in use here, along with the spectacular color combinations. The MAYBACH lettering and logos are also featured throughout these frames, nose pads, and even sun lenses.

THE PRESIDENT I

This rimless aviator style is for those who need an aviator like no other. The look is sophisticated and authoritative. The Double-M screw design holds the custom lenses that sport the MAYBACH logo. Handcrafted fine wood makes this style even more elegant.

The Artist III

The Magic I

The Independence II

The President I

What is known as Reid’s carving is actually more interesting than just that. It was created to give honor to the great Maori leaders who founded two tribes and brought them together. Here it provides a nice way to frame Lake Taupo behind it, one of the stops on the Ferrari Grand Tour of New Zealand with the four-door Purosangue

Photo by Carl S. Cunanan

Every wrist finds its perfect watch.