Calibre Magazine November-December 2023

Patek Philippe Ladies Watches

THE LUXURY OF TIME VOLUME 18 ISSUE 144

AUTHENTIC ELEGANCE P AT E K P H I L I P P E K N O W S W H AT W O M E N W A N T PHP 380

I SSN 19 0 8 - 49 9 4

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MINUTES E DITOR' S

WO RDS

Decades of Passion

"Y

ou cannot describe passion, you can only live it.”

That quote by Enzo Ferrari was up on a wall at a new Ferrari showroom. It got me to thinking, because in a lot of ways what we have been doing for the last two decades or so of Calibre was describing passion. Were we wrong?

So I asked people. I asked what it was that drew people to us. Were we real? Were we authentic? Or were we just talking about stuff? The response was rather educational.

And overwhelming. They spoke to us of how geeky we all would get when talking about a particular piece. Or how we pull out our phones to take photos and show people detail.

Or how we went deep into stuff about a brand that they didn’t know even if it was on their wrist. Or how about how we would bring our level of educational thirst to other things like, of course, cars, but also other things. How we realized that there were whole groups of people

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that wanted to learn more about all that, but weren’t comfortable joining established watch groups or attending get-together. They threw back at us stuff we used to say, such as when brands and people wanted us to be exclusive we would say no we need to be inclusive. We need to welcome, not deter.

How we would point out someone buying an inexpensive watch from a mall stall the same way we would point out the big name boutiques, because we were talking about passion not price.

We didn’t always get it right. Sometimes we would agree to what people or brands wanted, but that generally didn’t work out all that well.

We realized that if we just pushed for what we thought was right, whether a story or a brand or a look or a way to communicate, it generally brought more people into our world. That was what people said. That we were just being ourselves. That we weren’t just telling stories.

That we did live it. That we do live it.

I just really like bringing people along for the ride.

“TH AT WE W E RE J UST BEING OU RSE LVE S. TH AT WE W E RE N’ T JUST TE L L ING STORIES. T H AT W E DID LIVE IT. T H AT WE DO L IVE IT.”

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief

“ N O M AT T E R H OW M U C H I C A N ACCO M P L I S H I N T H I S S P O R T, I W I L L A LWAYS B E H U N G RY F O R M O R E .”

G E O R G E R U S S E L L , D R I V E R , M E R C E D E S - A M G P E T R O N A S F O R M U L A 1 TM T E A M

IW3716 THE REFERENCE. P ORTUG IE S E R CH RONOG R APH This Portugieser Chronograph builds on the legacy of IWC’s instrument watches for navigation. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 caliber, engineered for performance, robustness and durability.

The vertical arrangement of the subdials enhances readability and has resulted in a chronograph celebrated for its iconic design.

IWC B O U TI Q U E · G R E E N B E LT 5 · M A K ATI

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Contents COVER WATCH

28

Patek Philippe Generational beauty

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JENNIFER LAWRENCE

LONGINES BOUTIQUES MINI

DOLCEVITA

Mandaluyong City, Makati City, Parañaque City

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Contents FEATURES

36

Frederique Constant

40

Longines

And The Avener create electro music together

A classic remake in form of the Mini DolceVita

44

46

Grand Seiko First year bodes well

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Grand Seiko

Awarding the craftsmen

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Contents FEATURES

48

Oris

52

IWC

Innovation for underwater

A testament to the strength of the IWC apprentice program

56

60

Maurice Lacroix

Gentle Pastels and a Bright Splash

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Doxa

The SUB is all suited up for urban lifestyle.

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Contents FEATURES

64

TAG Heuer

68

Rolex

Knows how to be the life of the party

A new collection that pays homage to the birth of Rolex.

74

78

A. Lange & Söhne A truly remarkable timepiece

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Louis Vuitton

The new collection is a nod to this 90s classic

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Contents FEATURES

82

G-Shock

Four Decades of Power

86 That Old Magpie Brain Reflections on a Collector’s Journey

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84

Nivada Grenchen

Linking the past with the present, and sometimes a bit of whimsy

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Contents REGULARS

04

Minutes Carl S. Cunanan

20

Back to Basics

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

22

Vintage Explorer

Jose Martin V. Ursúa

23

The Wind-Up

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World

92

Parallel Passion

Pictures in time as we travel the world

96

Timeframe

Pictures in time as we travel the world

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MASTHEAD

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-In-Chief

Mayette L. Asis Vice President

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Publisher

Senior Editor

Advertising Traffic Manager

Chairman

Collections Editor

Account Managers

Managing Director

Hernan C. Mapua

Jason S. Ang

Associate Editor

Jennie O. Salazar

Malyn L. Bautista Erwin G. Bautista Joji Z. Coloma

Kit O. Payumo

Editor-at-Large

Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Board of Directors

Michael L. Lhuillier Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Carl S. Cunanan Kevin C. Limjoco

Senior Staff Writer

Alberto E. Casal

Michael L. Lhuillier

On The Cover

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

Chief Operating Officer

Cecille Khristine D. Buenviaje

Design Director

Vice President

Senior Designer

Senior Accountant

Designer

Credit and Collection Officer

Contributing Writers

Legal Counsel

Charie L. Biaden

Mayette L. Asis

Mark David A. See

Merline B. Urdas

Mary Ann E. Marcelo

William Herrera AlvinUy Katherine S. Cunanan Jose Martin V. Ursúa Leonard Vincent L. Ho Edrich Santos Dominique O. Cerqueda

Mary Ann M. Benito

Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office Patek Philippe Ladies Watches Volume 18 Issue 144 - November-December 2023

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Burgundy Corporate Tower Units 27B and 27AR03 252 Sen Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati City Visit: www.calibremagazine.com

Contributing Photographer

Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc.

Keith Sundiang

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Copyright © 2023 The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or services advertised in this edition.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.

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BACK TO BASICS

Making Iconic Watches More Accessible

I

f there’s one main hindrance to getting people into the watch collecting hobby, it would be primarily due to financial reasons. Living in a third world country with a third world salary, but with monthly expenses matching (or even exceeding) those of richer nations can put a damper on any ‘would-be’ watch collector.

Even if a person is living in a more prosperous country, real life beckons, and horological aspirations are put on the back burner for another day.

I admit I wasn’t too keen on the MoonSwatch when it first came out last year. I never got one since the entire product line was made of materials that I wasn’t particularly interested in wearing. However, what I did notice was that a lot of people who were never really into watches started wearing one because of it. Maybe it was because there was an Omega logo stamped on it, but with a Swatch’s price tag. Maybe it was because of the history it borrowed from the real Omega Moonwatch.

Maybe it was because it was hyped-up and became the ‘in’ thing to buy and wear last year.

Or maybe because it looked cool, and it was something you could afford without breaking the bank. The main point though was that people started wearing analog watches again.

And that’s a good thing.

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“ TH E M A I N P O IN T TH O U G H WA S TH AT P EO P L E S TA RTED W EA R I N G A N A L O G WATC H ES AG A I N. AN D TH AT’ S A G O O D TH I N G.”

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Editor-at-Large

A few months ago, Swatch announced out of nowhere a new collaboration with another Swatch Group brand: Blancpain. This time it was for the reimagination of their iconic Fifty Fathoms divers watch. At the moment, stocks are scarce for the entire Blancpain X Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection.

This situation is similar to how it was with the MoonSwatch last year. However, there doesn’t seem to be as strong a demand for it locally compared to the MoonSwatch based on the limited hype and the smaller number of people bringing it in and selling it at the gray market from other countries. Nonetheless, this was an interesting release from Swatch that’s helping ‘democratize’ watch collecting (to a certain extent) by making a previously exclusive and unattainable brand such as Blancpain something more mainstream.

There are a lot of conflicting opinions on these 2 collaborations by Swatch, but for me this strategy should be taken as a masterclass in marketing by other brands and watchmakers.

The technology used in any mechanical watch is inherently obsolete, but that’s not the point of wearing these kinds of watches. It’s all about the story behind each watch. What these 2 Swatch collabs did was to share the stories of Omega’s Moonwatch and Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms to the whole world, and to allow everyone to take part in that story by making each watch affordable and attainable (regardless of income level).

Quality deserves time.

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VINTAGE EXPLORER

The Greatest Thing Since White Bread

S

eptember’s Blancpain X Swatch announcement was like manna from heaven for your humble columnist.

Last year’s collaboration was the watch that launched a thousand hot takes, from breathless extollations of Swatch Group’s genius, to excruciating hand-wringing over its betrayal of true collectors. (Mine was the latter!) It was the gift that kept on giving for watch journalists, online and on paper. Surely this Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Collection would recapture the lightning-in-a-bottle that was the most hyped event in watch history?

Two months on, and it appears that the response to the Scuba Fifty Fathoms has been more muted. Swatch boutiques braced for last year’s hordes of enthusiasts and speculators to return, and there were certainly half-day-long lineups post-release. Although it’s still difficult to buy any of the five Ocean editions at the time of writing, no one seems to be talking about them anymore. Why is that?

First of all, the Fifty Fathoms simply doesn’t have the same cachet as the Speedmaster.

Since the 1950s it has been the forgotten “First Modern Diver” trapped in the shadow of the iconic Rolex Submariner. For the record, I’ve long believed that the claim of Blancpain beating Rolex to that title was open to debate, though a recent investigation by Jose Perez comes down heavily in favor of the Genevans.

In any case, the Fifty Fathoms’ cultural impact has been minimal when measured against either the Sub or the Speedy. 90m depth rating? A ratcheted turning bezel? Such

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accomplishments are trivial compared to landing on the Moon! (Never mind that Omega didn’t build the Saturn V…) Furthermore, there have been very few high-profile wearers of the Fifty Fathoms. Blancpain unfortunately can’t exploit its Cousteau association, since that has been commandeered by IWC. Secondly, enthusiasts are weary of the MoonSwatch game. We remember the broken promises, and the nakedly transparent effort to drive foot traffic into Swatch Boutiques through manufactured scarcity. We want to be able to buy the watches we want when we want. If not, then we will take our business elsewhere. This is a significantly bigger threat in 2023, as the market is full of legitimate, well-made, and reasonably-priced homages to the Fifty Fathoms and the related TornekRayville: The Helson Skindiver, the Bulova MIL-SHIPS, and the humble Seiko SNZH57 are just a few good alternatives.

Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer

Lastly, the execution of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms range is… of mixed quality.

Personally, I find two of the Oceans to be very nice, one is wearable, but the last two can charitably be called “challenging.” Less charitably, I think they would be rejected as special Halloween models by Invicta designers.

Granted, not all of the MoonSwatches were must-haves, but you could at least imagine wearing each of them some of the time.

(Mission to the Sun is the one that I still find a bit much.)

In hindsight, nothing could have matched the MoonSwatch, either as an off-beat object of desire or as a subject of heated discussion for over a year. We are still seeing its ripples radiate, while the Scuba Fifty Fathoms has sunk rather swiftly. But I hesitate to call it a flop. We don’t know the numbers sold, but there are certainly more people aware of the names Blancpain and Fifty Fathoms now than there were three months ago. Perhaps they’ve since become aspirational brands for some of them. However, converting the average Swatch punter into a Blancpain client will be much trickier. Whereas the Speedmaster has a broad secondary market with many “lesser” subtypes (Reduced, Racing, Date, Day Date, etc.), entry into the world of genuine Fifty Fathoms ownership has a much higher cost.

Second-hand examples of the modern watch are expensive, while vintage models are dearer still, in a market notoriously rife with fakes. (Look up “Polish Navy Fifty Fathoms”.)

It’s easy to understand Swatch Group’s desire to keep the momentum going, but these annual collaboration events may be running out of air.

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THE WIND-UP Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world

C

artier is enjoying a wonderful renaissance in the watch world. It has always had horological credibility, of course,

combining fine watchmaking with amazing artistry and craftsmanship.

More recently, what has been getting a lot of attention among the many different segments of the watch community is the watches that bring more elegance to daily life. Such as the Tanks. Hard-core collectors have been going deep into the historical archives for very specific models and years of these iconic watches.

Although years have passed, the same basic codes of elegance and luxury can be found right off the showroom display.

The Tank Louis Cartier is an excellent example of this. It began life in 1921 as a redesign of the original Tank or what they now call the “Tank Normale”. Reworking the design of the original Tank, Cartier stretched the case and softened the edges, also refining the brancards. With its not quite rectangular not quite square shape, the Tank Louis Cartier is considered by many to be elegant and balanced.

The Tank Louis Cartier is unmistakably Cartier, and within its range can be found a wide variety of looks. In multiple color variations, it can be simple with a colored

THE TANK LOUIS CARTIER

face, free of any Roman numerals or rail

When your watch speaks about your elegance and distinction, not about itself

makes the discussion about your taste

tracks. Going further are original motifs in dials that come in a tri-gold finish, these tri-gold models will be launched as a oneshot production.

The Tank Louis Cartier is a watch that more than it is about the watch.

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THE WIND-UP

SECOND EXPEDITION: THE CANARY ISLANDS Photos: Under The Pole/Franck Gazzola

DEEPLIFE expeditions explore marine

we are doing is trying to answer the

animal forests. As Emmanuelle Périé-

question: how many trees do you need

Bardout says, “Rolex have been working

to make up a self-sustaining forest? The

with us since 2010 and I can see that

goal for DEEPLIFE is to put the concept

their commitment to the planet is not just

of marine animal forests in the textbook

a commitment to a mission, but to work

of ecology as something clear, accepted,

together long term. Rolex has supported

and standardized.”

Under The Pole over the years, and we have grown with them.” The collaboration

Another Dimension

has proven to be quite successful. Now

The Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative and

we are looking a little further south — to

Under The Pole expedition in the Canary

the Canary Islands of Spain.

Islands, specifically off the island of

The Canary Islands

C

Lanzarote, has shown that the riches of the ocean are not limited to what we can

The Canary Islands is an archipelago

see from the horizon, but extend deep

system in the Atlantic Ocean, composed

beneath the waves. As Ghislain Bardout,

onsider this an update,

of 7 islands. Several of the islands have

Co-Founder of Under The Pole says, “It’s

if you will. In a previous

already been declared a Biosphere

exciting, it’s promising, it’s inspiring. We

issue of Calibre, we talked

Reserve.

don’t know what we’re going to find, but

about the Rolex Perpetual Planet Initiative and

The DEEPLIFE team takes detailed photographs and records data

we want to go looking for it.”

Thanks to specially-developed

the Under The Pole expedition series.

fastidiously. Samples of black coral, the

rebreather equipment, the explorers can

Co-founded by Ghislain Bardout and

ocean water, and even sediment are

stay beneath the water for longer periods

Emmanuelle Périé-Bardout, Under The

taken for further research done topside.

of time, allowing focused study of the

Pole expeditions have been supported

A long-term goal is the comprehensive

marine life from 30 to 200 meters beneath

by Rolex in their mission to deepen

mapping of the ecosystem. As Lorenzo

the surface. This is the mesophotic or

scientific knowledge of the oceans

Bramanti, Scientific Co-Director for

twilight zone, and it is the deepest point

and contribute to their protection. The

DEEPLIFE says, “To put it simply, what

that sunlight can hit underwater.

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Whilst the landscape of Fuerteventura looks arid and lifeless, underwater Nicolas Mollon encounters a school of trevally fish. Here he takes time to admire the uniqueness of his environment.

Ghislain Bardout, Co-Founder of Under The Pole, carefully selects sections of black coral to sample. We can also see the complex rebreather apparatus that enables him to dive to greater depths than traditional scuba diving.

Sessile animals The marine animal forest is a unique ecosystem that exists beneath the ocean waves. The depth and conditions allow sessile animals to grow unhindered, establishing three-dimensional structures.

At a shallow depth, corals contain zooxanthellae, a specific algae that provides coral with food from sunlight. But deeper down, with no sunlight, there exist sponges, bivalves, and black corals that can survive without sunlight. The beauty and biodiversity here is unparalleled. A most interesting find during the Canary Islands explorations was an amphipod, a shrimp-like class of crustacean, found amongst the coral fronds. This further cemented the need to have the area protected as a critical ecosystem.

There is a grand plan to designate part of the area surrounding the Canary Islands, and in Gran Canaria, as a marine national park. The research from the DEEPLIFE expeditions has gathered critical data to show that the marine animal forests host a plethora of life deep down beneath the surface. The Gran Canaria Government is one step closer to establishing a marine protected area (MPA), which in turn marks another step forward in the protection of the oceans.

Future planning The team’s mission in the Canary Islands was not only to research the area with the intent of protecting it but also to establish a protocol and set of expectations for future projects. This forward-thinking The DEEPLIFE programme takes Under The Pole to depths of 30-200 metres, known as the mesophotic zone, which is the furthest that sunlight can penetrate the ocean.

Here the team collect sediment and count fish, along with gathering photography and video.

Their findings will allow them to characterise the forest as a whole.

approach is something Rolex intentionally looks for in all the Perpetual Planet Initiative partners.

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RACE READY The America's Cup

L

ook to the seas and keep your eye on the horizon!

Exciting times are coming, and stylish ones too, thanks to the partnership between

TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing.

Among the various yacht races across the globe, the America’s Cup is undoubtedly the most important. Dating back to 1851 and has had a wonderful history of tight finishes, amazing yachts and teams, and the famous line uttered to Queen Victoria, “There is no second.”

Throughout its illustrious 173- year history, the America’s Cup is a hard one These watches embody the daring spirit that is needed to be a contender in the most competitive yacht race in history.

to win, or even finish. Only teams from the United States, Switzerland, and New Zealand can rightfully lay claim to being

TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing are strong partners in this endeavor and TUDOR has released two Pelagos FXD models.

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THE WIND-UP

America’s Cup winners. For others, it is

finished carbon composite case and fixed

still a goal they wish to achieve.

strap bars. The bi-directional rotatable

Planning has already begun for the

bezel in titanium is also matte-finished

37th America’s Cup, set in Barcelona,

and has a carbon composite insert. The

Spain, for August to October 2024. The

special shade of blue partnered with the

Alinghi Red Bull Racing team is deep in

vibrant red accents make the watches

the thick of preparations, led by two-time

an elegant standout on the wrist. The

America’s Cup winner, Ernesto Bertarelli.

snowflake hands are slightly larger than

He hopes to add a third Cup win to that list

expected, and with the luminous surface,

of achievements.

make the watch easier to read.

The Alinghi Red Bull Racing boat, or

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red

AC75, is a 20.7-meter boat, with a blue

Bull Racing Edition Time-Only watch

carbon fiber hull and 26.5-meter carbon

(Reference 25707KN) has hour, minute,

fiber mast. The hydrofoil blades are in

and seconds functions, and is powered

stainless steel, and the hydrofoil and hull

by the Manufacture Calibre MT5602.

fittings are in titanium. The blue and red

The Calibre is COSC-certified and even

combination make a commanding figure

exceeds that standard.

on the seas.

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Alinghi

TUDOR and Alinghi Red Bull Racing

Red Bull Racing Edition Chrono watch

are strong partners in this endeavor and

(Reference 25807KN) has the hour,

TUDOR has released two Pelagos FXD

minutes, seconds, chronograph, and

models. The color palette of the watches

date functions, and is powered by the

echoes the racing yacht look. The TUDOR

Manufacture Calibre MT5813. This model

Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing

is also COSC-certified and exceeds those

Edition watches have a black matte-

standards as well.

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PATEK PHILIPPE

Words by

Katherine Cunanan

ELEGANCE AND BEAUTY IN SIMPLICITY

COVER WATCH

Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5260/1455R-001

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COVER WATCH

T

Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/1201R

Twenty~4 Automatic Ref. 7300/1200A-011

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he world of watches is an interesting one to be in, whether in actuality or peripherally. The stories told are enthralling, even if only heard of afterwards.

During a recent lunch meeting with Patek Philippe, the conversation apparently led to about how the world of ladies’ watches was actually far more complex than that of the men’s pieces.

Not just because of things like gemsetting, color choice, size and so on, but because there were in reality so many more different desires and opportunities as well.

The history of watches and wristwatches, and indeed the telling of time, can sometimes be muddled up. The telling of time, whether on the wrist, from a royal tower, or a sailing ship, was a tool but also a sign of the latest in modern technology and an example of the highest levels of craftsmanship and art. As such it was often

considered of importance and beauty, and indeed only available to royalty or patrons of the arts. Indeed, some of the most important first wristwatches were meant for a ladies wrist and not a man’s. The fact that watches would be embellished with fine finishing or precious gems was more testament to the timepiece as work of art, bringing together different areas of craftsmanship.

There has been increasing interest in watches past the current “usual suspects” of sports watches and hyped up pieces. While we tend to look more at the men’s watches for everything, the truth is that the ladies’ watch market is more diverse, more interesting and often earlier into the fray.

Many years ago, for example, it became a trend for ladies who liked watches to wear men’s sportier pieces. This was before the watches started getting larger. Perhaps at the time, it was felt that that was the only way to go if you wanted a serious watch, or perhaps it was just a look.

When Patek Philippe recently talked about the changes in the world of watches for ladies, in many ways for them there was no change.

The iconic horological house has always taken the same position, giving people their best interpretation of what the Patek Philippe customer wanted. This can take various forms.

The ladies’ watch market, as was said, can be far more diverse.

Twenty~4 Automatic Steel & Olive Green Dial 7300/1200A-011

PATEK PHILIPPE

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COVER WATCH

Calatrava Ref. 4997/200G-001 White Gold

Calatrava Ref. 4997/200R-001 Rose Gold

What is interesting now is that there is less actual mention of who watches are meant for, it is more about the watches themselves and what the person wants. The differentiator may be size or level of jewelry involved but even that may not be a proper gauge. Within the classic and iconic Calatrava line for example, the pieces all speak Patek Philippe but in different ways.

The Calatrava family has, in its cleanest and most elegant forms, often been called the most beautiful wristwatch design ever created. For modern watches and current releases, pieces such as the 5227R and 5227J are almost the epitome of the classic Calatrava lines. Both these pieces are in 39mm sizes, which can fit well on anyone who likes the size, man or woman.

The 6119R is a similar size but with the distinct guilloche hobnail pattern that is known as Clous de Paris. This pattern was often used in Patek Philippe watches from the past where you would have the same design but just in different sizes, such was its iconic status. With a silvery grained dial in a rose gold case that highlights the hobnail quite well, this is an amazingly elegant watch that would again go well on any wrist.

Another Calatrava that draws attention is the 7200R, in Rose Gold with a silvery grained dial and gold applied Breguet numerals. It is a truly gorgeous and well-finished piece, and comes in at 34.6mm in diameter. Also note that the lug shape is a little different from the other Calatrava pieces. So at that size, what is it? Many modern independent small watch companies have been releasing runs of 34mm watches meant to provide pieces for the women only to find that they were snapped up across the board. And this piece can clearly stand on its own as a wonderful collector wristwatch.

What you have actually listed as Ladies’ watches in the Calatrava line are the 4997/200G and 4997/200R, which have diameters of 35mm. They have 76 diamonds on the bezel and embossed patterns on lacquered dials, midnight blue in white gold, or purple in rose gold, respectively.

Now all of these watches have their own draw, and all show their beautiful mechanical movements through sapphire crystal casebacks.

But what makes you or Patek Philippe decide for whom they are for? They can all stand up on their own as serious haute horlogerie pieces.

Then you have something that was released by Patek Philippe as a 2023 novelty that is definitely drawing mens’ watch collectors but is listed as a ladies piece. The 5261R is listed as the Aquanaut

Calatrava Date Ref. 5227R-001 Rose Gold

Calatrava Date Ref. 5227J-001 Yellow Gold

Calatrava Ref. 6119R-001 Rose Gold

Calatrava Ultra-Thin Automatic Ref. 7200R-001

Aquanaut Ref. 5261R-001 Rose Gold

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COVER WATCH

Twenty~4 Ref. 4910/1200A-001 and Ref. 4910/1200A-010

Luce Annual Calendar. It has a very distinct blue-grey dial in a Rose Gold case of 39.9 mm diameter, and with the annual calendar it is a serious complication. There is not a diamond in sight. It comes with a blue-gray strap of composite material. Word has it that at the Geneva show and everywhere else it has even shown, it is as eagerly put on a man’s wrist as a ladies.

There is also have the direction taken with the Twenty-4 collection. The family was created in 1999 and was meant to be an offering to the young ladies that were entering the world of fine watchmaking but didn’t necessarily want just the re-sized “boy’s size” watches of that time. It used a rectangular watchcase with an integrated bracelet.

What was more talked about though was the movement, which was quartz. What was created was a watch that could work well with all times of day and all types of events, and did not look like just a mens watch but also could aesthetically stand on its own. The fact that it had a battery meant that it could fit more easily into the life of someone who has not yet started thinking about watches as mechanical marvels but was beginning their first steps into serious pieces. The vision and the shape are now so appreciated that even

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“Patek Philippe basically does what they have always done, which is interpret haute horlogerie their own way.”

when Patek Philippe launched the round-shaped automatics in 2018, the name Twenty-4 still makes you think of those first groundbreaking “make everyday a special day” watches.

In case you think this house thinks quartz movements belong in everyday pieces, take a look at the 2023 novelty that is the 4962/200R Gondolo Serata. A gorgeous jewelry piece that highlights how challenging it is to work with gems the way Patek Philippe wants to. The 94 brilliant-cut spessartites are arranged in double color gradients and differing sizes and need to be set along a sumptuously curved surface of Rose Gold. Insanely hard to do, let alone do so well. It is simply beautiful.

So while the idea of taking the mens watch and adjusting it for ladies may have a place, there is way much more that can be done. And way much more that is requested. Patek Philippe basically does what they have always done, which is interpret haute horlogerie their own way. Their vision is generational, not quarterly because they are an independent family organization. Every piece, and indeed every person, should have the attention and importance they deserve even though they may all be different.

Gondolo Ref. 4962/200R-001

N OV E M B E R - D E C E M B E R

20 2 3

FEATURES Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.

FEATURE

Four Hundred And Thirty Two Hertz

Frederique Constant and The Avener create a double limited edition Words by

Kit Payumo

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FEATURE

T

ristan Casara was born on January 23, 1987, in Nice, France, and is famously known by his stage name The Avener.

He is the foremost deep house and electro DJ of our time who constantly performs at some of the most prestigious clubs, venues, and festivals in the world. He is also a master at operating both electronic equipment and computer assisted music software, and is an absolute wizard at manipulating sound chips. But The Avener isn’t your average techno DJ/Producer; he is first and foremost a musician.

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Aged just 36, The Avener has already spent 20 years in the music business, and in fact, studied classical piano at the Nice conservatory of music at the age of five. His first album “The Wanderings of the Avener” was released in 2014 and spawned the No. 1 debut single “Fade Out Lines.” The single became a world wide hit selling 1.5 million copies all over the world, and is a deep house rework of Phoebe Killdeer & The Short Straw’s “The Fade Out Line.”

Certified double platinum in France, The Avener is certified platinum and gold in over 10 countries and was also crowned Best Electro Act at the French Music Awards in 2016. He has done work for Lana Del Rey and Bob Dylan,

as well as creating the musical score for “Fifty Shades Darker,” the second opus in the “50 Shades” trilogy of movies, and cites “the depths of blues” to modern House music as inspiration for his rather eclectic output.

On the less “electro” side of things, Frederique Constant (FC) relaunched the Highlife collection to much fanfare back in 2020. Ranging from automatic time-and-date models to an affordable perpetual calendar with an actual manufacture calibre, the Highlife collection is geared specifically for a younger audience, and is the Swiss watchmaker’s very fresh and contemporary take on the highly popular integrated-braceletluxury-sports-watch category.

Begun by the likes of Maurice Lacroix and Tissot’s successful Aikon and PRX, respectively, the FC’s Highlife collection not only continued to perpetuate the archetype defined by Gérald Genta’s Royal Oak of a sporty but sophisticated steel watch with an integrated steel bracelet and an automatic movement back in 1972, but it also firmly entrenched the highly popular integrated-bracelet-luxury-sports-watch category that was once the exclusive prevue of high-end manufacturers into the accessible luxury market.

Hip and relevant are the operative words here, which is why in June 2022, Frederique Constant partnered with The Avener to create “future hits” together, and today we have the result: the Frederique Constant X The Avener, two Highlife automatic time-and-date watches, the first in “traditional” Highlife guise (ref.

FC-303TA3NH6B), which features a polished and brushed stainless steel case with a similarly brushed and polished 3-link integrated bracelet with an additional rubber strap. But it’s the second version that we believe is closer to The Avener’s heart.

Designed to highlight the electro DJ’s spectacular nighttime sets, the all-black ref. FC303TA3DNH6 sets the mood with a sandblasted stainless steel black DLC case, a black dial with luminous black coating, and a date window with a black background. Only the hands and hour markers stand out to mark the time. Most significantly, this version eschews the polished and brushed integrated steel bracelet in favor of a specially designed black rubber strap with a rugged, tactical pattern/texture with a pin buckle, and an additional black nubuck leather strap also with a pin buckle.

As an ambassador of the Highlife collection, every single detail of these watches is of special

significance to the electro DJ. From the color choices, to the dial patterns, the inscriptions and even the limited number available The Avener meticulously scrutinized every facet.

Starting with the dials, both are decorated with motifs that evoke the digital sound waves as depicted on the studio monitors that are scrutinized on a daily basis by The Avener. On the stainless steel edition, a blue digital sound wave traverses the dial on a black background, the same shade of blue that was used on the cover of The Avener’s first album. It’s rumored, in fact, that the digital motifs depict a few bars of the artist’s No. 1 debut single “Fade Out Lines.”

The black DLC version, on the other hand, gets a concentric wave pattern radiating out from the center in a nod to the sunburst finish much loved by the Geneva-based Manufacture. It was repurposed here by The Avener in the form of the same electro motif, the display of which stands out in glossy relief. Further, both models feature applied steel indices with the all-black dial’s indices filled with black luminescent material matching the hour and minute hands; while the blue version features indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 only with while luminescent material.

Finally, both dials bear an inscription dear to the artist: ‘a tempo,’ which means “in time” in

Italian, and refers to the resumption of the speed of the song. To The Avener, this means returning to the original beat in his DJ set. Otherwise, the design parameters of the 100-meter waterresistant, barrel-shaped case of the Highlife collection is intact. This includes its half-moon facets, and its 39mm x 10.34mm dimensions.

The beating heart in both watches is the Sellita SW-200-1 based automatic FC-303

“Hip and relevant are the operative words here, which is why in June 2022, Frederique Constant partnered with The Avener to create "future hits" together.”

calibre, which can be viewed from the glare proof sapphire crystal caseback. The 26-jewel movement “spins” (pardon the pun) at the The Avener-approved frequency of 28,800vph or 4Hz, and boasts enough autonomy to last through an entire 38-hour rave.

Now, on to that limited edition number: 432 pieces, each. It was purposely chosen by the electro DJ because 432Hz is widely held in both scientific and music industry circles to be the “miracle tone,” and is purportedly the “perfect” frequency that encourages health and well being.

Playing and listening to music that has been tuned to 432Hz creates a sense of peace and harmony, and has been known to make people feel calmer, happier and more relaxed.

Both Frederique Constant X The Avener watches come in exclusive gift boxes especially designed to mimic the type of flight case regularly used by musicians when touring. Reinforced to the hilt, the case looks right at home in the backstage atmosphere of the concerts that are the regular habitat of The Avener, and is the perfect “carry on” for the Frederique Constant X The Avener watch with its additional strap and limited edition plate.

Both limited editions will be available starting from March 2024 at Frederique Constant’s new flagship store in New York City.

FEATURE

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Longines introduces a classic remake in form of the Mini Dolcevita ITS "ELEGANCE IS AN AT T I T U D E " S L O G A N REKINDLES THIS CLASSIC COLLECTION FROM THE 90S Words by Alvin Uy

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L5.200.4.71.2

L5.200.0.75.6

ongines recently introduced the Mini DolceVita, the classic styling and somewhat discreet profile comes with a familiar aesthetic resonate what Longines’ intended quiet luxury and contemporary elegance makes it the perfect timepiece to complement any styling choice.

Longines has softened the lines and given the watch a reduced profile case and a newly designed stainless steel bracelet, making it an

L

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L5.200.4.71.5

instant modern classic. Longines has been making rectangular timepieces since the 1910s, but this watch was inspired by a Longines legend created in 1927, and the original DolceVita collection was introduced some 50 years later in 1997. Longines said that the collection has triggered the now-familiar slogan, “Elegance is an attitude” and the Mini DolceVita updates the story for a new generation. The Mini DolceVita collection sports a rectangular 21.50mm x 29.00mm stainless steel case powered by a L178 quartz movement and is water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters).

What is dazzling about the new Mini DolceVita collection is its case, which is framed by 38 individually set IF-VVS Top Wesselton diamonds.

The rectangular dial has a new Cosmo circular dial inside that draws attention to the wearer every time she looks at the watch as seen through a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This watch is about elegant and subtle contrasts, with a silver sunray background, a white matte hour track, silver sunray inner circle, and a white matte round small seconds subdial. To tell time, it has painted Roman numerals and blued steel hands that making it highly legible contrasting it against the lighter shades of the dial. It is very comfortable to wear this watch with its 198 links, giving it a very supple and silky soft hug around the wrist, giving added comfort to the wearer.

“Elegance is unique because it allows us to break from traditional aesthetic codes while revealing multiple facets of our personality. It is an opportunity to continually reinvent ourselves, based on our desires and moods, whether serious or playful, but always in keeping with our own tastes and values.” — Matthias Breschan, Longines CEO. Created with a variety of color options and configurations, only six of the new references have diamonds bordering the case. Aside from the classic model with the new Cosmo circular dial, there is another version that comes with an exploding Roman numeral in rectangular silver-colored dial with flinqué decoration. This gorgeous dial features subtle geometric patterns that are embossed on the dial with a guilloche effect, and painted Roman numerals and blued steel hands. Its small seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position is presented in a square subdial.

Four references of this collection feature diamonds and come with colored dials in ivory white, mint green, blossom pink, and serene blue and color-matching straps. The gilt Roman numerals and gilt hands create a 3D impression, completing a unique aesthetic picture.

Aside from these, there are other five references that come with cases without diamonds. They feature Roman-dialed models with Cosmo dials with a silver sandblasted finish.

Each model is offered on the newly-designed stainless steel bracelet or on a black leather strap.

It also comes with a red leather strap option.

Longines maintains that each Mini DolceVita model is a powerful expression of elegance and the Italian sweet life long associated with the collection. Not only are these stunning jewel watches built on a rich heritage, they are also uncompromisingly contemporary models for dynamic, spirited women.

L5.200.0.05.2

L5.200.0.79.2

L5.200.0.99.2

L5.200.0.95.2

FEATURE

Grand Seiko Asia Pacific Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific celebrates its first year of establishment with a new watch that is both stunning and stunningly simple.

Words by Katherine Cunanan

BGH327 is a limited edition timepiece available in Asia Pacific Grand Seiko Boutiques. It honors what is known as Mount Fuji’s “Red Fuji” phenomenon. The red-colored Fuji or Aka Fuji is meant to bring luck and fortune. It is a fleeting occurrence. From the end of summer to the beginning of autumn, if it occurs it will only appear for less than an hour in the early morning. It comes after a recent snow melt and if the proper combination of cloud, mist, and sunshine occurs.

The watch itself is part of the Heritage collection and is based on the model 44GS with its curved shape, sharp edges, and tapered lugs. The dial has a deep fluted texture with the visual lines coming out from the center. SBGH327 uses the fully mechanical 9S85 Hi-Beat movement, which is assembled at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio that Calibre’s Carl Cunanan featured recently.

The special new watch has the expected details such as mirror-polished faceted applied indices and hands and Zaratsu polishing on the angled surfaces. A five-link bracelet has finishes that alternate between brushed and mirrorpolished finishes.

The watch is limited to just 168 pieces.

Congratulations to Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific!

S

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FEATURE

Grand Seiko Awarded Japan awards two of the craftsmen that create the award-winning watches of Grand Seiko and Seiko Words by Katherine Cunanan

ongratulations to Seiko and Grand Seiko and to two of their very unique craftsmen!

The Japanese Government has recognized two very special individuals for their contributions to the craft. The team met Grand Seiko watchmaker and movement designer Takuma Kawauchiya earlier this year when he discussed the development of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication. He spoke of his own personal passions, such as music, and how these and other influences in Japanese culture would become inspiration for the designs, details, and movements of Grand Seiko watches.

Takuma Kawauchiya has been awarded the title of Contemporary Master Craftsman, which is bestowed by the Japanese Government upon those who demonstrate outstanding skill and leadership in their field. He has been recognized for his distinguished skills in both designing and assembling the highly complicated mechanical movement that has changed the boundaries of Japanese watchmaking.

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon won the Chronometry Prize at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Kawauchiya designed the movement of over 340 components and was also in charge of its assembly.

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Takuma Kawauchiya and Calibre's Editor-in-Chief Carl Cunanan

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon

Hideto Yamazaki

Hideto Yamazaki has also been recognized by the Japanese Government. The press die assembly and repair technician works at Morioka Seiko Instruments Inc. He has been awarded this year’s Medal With Yellow Ribbon, an honor given to those individuals who become public role models through their diligence and perseverance in their professions.

Yamazaki has over thirty years of experience in manufacturing watch parts. He hand-finishes the press dies to a micron level, which allows the parts produced to be manufactured with a precision and beauty that surpasses creation by machine alone.

He was also awarded the title of Contemporary Master Craftsman in 2021. One of Yamazaki’s responsibilities is training the next generation of press die technicians. From his hands will these new craftsmen learn the talent and skill, and more importantly, the love for the craft.

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FEATURE

BEYOND THE BLUE D I V E

D E E P

Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

O

ris has a legacy of precision and innovation through the ages. What began in the picturesque town of Hölstein back in 1904 has since grown to a formidable horological standard. The watchmakers took the brand name after a nearby brook and since then, the company credo has been established as, “Things must make sense.”

The journey through the years includes growth from an assembly plant, the addition of a second factory, and eventually the innovation of adding straps to pocketwatches helped them focus on wristwatches. And focus they did.

Many improvements occurred throughout the brand’s history. The Oris mechanical watches are innovative and excellent. And thankfully there is a new one to set our eyes on.

The Oris AquisPro 4000m (reference no.

01 400 777 7155-Set) is a heck of a handsome watch. The color palette is both strong, thanks to the black and silver hues, and cool, thanks to the wonderful blue. As the name implies, this watch is a diver’s watch, and it’s touted as ‘the most waterresistant watch (Oris) has ever created.’

But what makes this watch so very waterresistant? For one, the titanium case can withstand pressures up to 400 Bar (or 4,000 meters in depth). Titanium is considered practically indestructible, which makes it the logical choice for tool watches and dive watches.

This watch is indeed meant for the serious divers, and it comes in at 49.5mm in case size. The ceramic bezel insert is eye catching because of the blue that enhances the minute scale’s 15 minutes, but not so distracting as to cause you to lose focus when on a deep dive.

Another factor that points to the ‘most waterresistant’ criteria is the Rotation Safety System, or RSS, which is Oris-patented technology. Oris collaborated with the target market or the end users, the divers, to see what they needed and how Oris could rise to the call. More on the RSS later though.

This watch also has the security folding clasp extension system, which might be fancy way of saying the watch can be adjusted while it is being worn. But the important part is that if you do adjust the watch while underwater, the watch remains extremely water-resistant. No salt water seeping in to damage that beautiful blue dial.

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Which brings us to the dial and that stunning blue color. The wave details on the dial add a bit of whimsy and, yes, I’m going there, depth to this dive watch. The indices are applied and have Super-LumiNova. The watch comes with a blue rubber strap to match the dial, and a titanium folding clasp.

The watch is powered by the Oris Calibre 400, a high-performance automatic mechanical movement. It is interesting to note that the watch has a 5-day power reserve, not that you expect to be underwater that long. But at least if you have a long weekend of diving planned, you don’t need to worry about your watch losing power. Or even if you choose to wear your watch during the week, and switch it up very other day or so, your watch will still keep the correct time. The watch also has elevated anti-magnetism, excellent chronometry, and a 10-year warranty. And by ‘excellent chronometry’ we mean accurate to -3/+5 seconds a day, which is better than a regular chronometer.

So now back to the Rotation Safety System, or RSS. As is critical with all tools or equipment, the user needs to know how to operate the mechanism properly for it to function well and according to expectations. Thankfully, Oris provides very clear instructions on the RSS: STEP 1. ACTIVATING RSS Hold the bezel's black vulcanized rubber edge and then lift it. This will release the RSS's lock and the bezel's black ceramic minutes scale top ring.

When activated, a stainless steel ring will appear around the edge of the top ring.

STEP 2. SETTING THE TIMER With the stainless steel ring now visible, turn the top ring anti-clockwise and align the number on it that corresponds to your allocated dive time with the watch's minutes hand.

STEP 3. SECURING THE TIME Once in place, push the top ring down until it clicks into position. The timer scale is now secure and you are ready to begin your dive.”

DIVE DEEP, DIVE SAFE The Oris AquisPro 4000m is indeed a diver’s watch, built to function excellently whether deep in the ocean or elsewhere.

“The color palette is both strong, thanks to the black and silver hues, and cool, thanks to the wonderful blue.”

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FEATURE

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THE CULT ICON IS REBORN! A testament to the strength of the IWC apprentice program Words by

William Herrera

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FEATURE

T

he successor to the 2008 icon, the Big Pilot Watch Edition Markus Bühler, was launched recently; the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler still features the much-loved aircraft turbine at 6 o’clock, this time incorporated into a flying minute tourbillon, which was challenging to manufacture to say the least. The inspiration of this piece, limited to just 51 pieces worldwide, the 2023 “Markus Bühler” comes in a polished aluminum case, gloss black dial, and black cordovan leather strap, a sapphire glass back showcases the IWC manufactured 82905 calibre (Ref. IW329901).

“When I created my Big Pilot’s Watch with a turbine as an apprentice watchmaker, I would never have imagined I would lead the development of a second edition 15 years later — let alone that I would be responsible for all assembly processes at IWC. To meet the high expectations of our collectors, we decided to create something truly exclusive and integrate the signature turbine into a tourbillon. This new edition perfectly embodies IWC’s engineering spirit while showcasing highest levels of detail and craftsmanship,” said Markus Bühler, Associate Director of Watch and Movement Assembly at IWC Schaffhausen.

The 43-millimetre platinum case and crown are painstakingly finished by hand with polished surfaces around the bezel and horns, giving this

timepiece a refined and elegant appearance. The black glossy dial is imprinted with white numerals with applied indices filled with Super-Luminova™.

Complementing the 21mm Black Cordovan leather strap is Markus Bühler’s signature printed on the inside. Powering this iconic timepiece is the IWC manufactured 82905 calibre, with an 80-hour power reserve. The plates, bridges and the rotor, which are visible through the sapphire case back were blackened using a PVD coating, are then laser-engraved and rhodium-plated to finish it off. The convex glass is made from sapphire, with an anti-reflective coating on both sides, and is water resistant up to 10 bar.

The story of both the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler and the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler is a testament to the strength of the IWC apprentice program.

The 2008 edition was created as an entry to the “Institut de Formation à la Haute Horlogerie,” with which Markus Bühler took top honors.

Markus Bühler

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FEATURE

EVOLUTION

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IN STYLE

Another AIKON To Pursue Words by Katherine Cunanan

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FEATURE

N

early half a century and more than fifteen awards should be enough evidence that Maurice Lacroix is a Manufacture that rightfully deserves our attention. They are innovative, avant-garde, and very eye-catching.

Best of all, the timepieces are affordable and covetous, but in a good way.

One of Maurice Lacroix’s initial watch models was the Calypso, released in the 1990s. The design aesthetic quickly made it the watch-to-have.

The clean and flat sapphire crystal was fuss-free, and the bezel had 6 arms that added symmetry without seeming too everyday (read: boring). The watch combined sport and elegance, making it a go-to for those with a full day planned.

Maurice Lacroix built on the success of the Calypso and released the AIKON (pronounced ‘icon’) in 2016. The AIKON carried forward some of the design elements of the Calypso, such as the six-arm bezel, and yet added some modern touches across different reference numbers.

Just two years later, in 2018, the AIKON Automatic was released. The summer hues were perfect for the beach life, without changing the elegant look of the iconic watch (see what I did there?).

A new AIKON is born For 2023, the Maurice Lacroix AIKON Automatic Limited Summer Edition watches further extend the success of the AIKON line.

The look is still urban but with a fun, bright color palette, and three different sizes to choose from.

The watches are classic three-handers (hour, minute, seconds) and have the date function too.

The rubber strap options mean these watches can go from the office to the beach with ease, without sacrificing style or function.

The Limited Summer Editions in 35mm case size have two color options for the dial.

The Ballerina Pink dial is gentle and delicate, and reminds you of the summer sky just as dusk approaches. The Tanager Turquoise dial echoes the clear cool ocean water, and with a glance at your wrist, you can be transported to the cool beachside in your mind. Hours are marked with double-batons or diamond-set indexes, so there is a bit of bling in the 35s. The case size and bling make these models perfect for the ladies.

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The Limited Summer Editions in 39mm case size would sit comfortably on the wrists of both men and women. The dial options are also Ballerina Pink and Tanager Turquoise, but a closer look shows difference on the dial. The hours are marked by batons, with double-batons for the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock.

Rounding out the models are the Limited Summer Editions in 42mm steel cases. The Tanager Turquoise makes an appearance here, but this time it is partnered with a lively Orange Soda dial. Hours are marked with batons and double-batons. While the turquoise dial represents the cool clear waters of the ocean, the orange dial represents energetic activity and the power of the midday sun. The Orange Soda model also has the distinction of having black tone accents instead of the silver ones that adorn the other models here. Note that the date dial is black with white numerals, and is the reverse of the others (white date dial with black numerals). With the ‘M’ logo on the dial also in black, the whole look is cohesive and strong.

Straps of choice Each AIKON Automatic Limited Summer Edition comes with two strap options. The classic choice is the 5-row stainless steel bracelet. But there is a fun choice too, in an FKM rubber strap in a color that matches the dial.

FKM means Fluoroelastomer, which is a synthetic rubber material that is built to withstand harsh conditions without cracking or fading.

FKM rubber is also resistant to water, heat, and even chemicals. The material is soft and pliable, allowing for a comfortable fit on the wrist. Each rubber strap has the AIKONic ‘M’ logo of the brand (yes, I did that on purpose). All AIKON watches have the Easy Strap Exchange System, meaning you can easily swap out the rubber strap for the steel bracelet, or vise versa, without needing specialty tools.

Thanks to the various case sizes available, and the choice of colors, these AIKONs would be great as a his-and-hers pairings, or parent-child, or even for best friends to have an ‘our’ watch. Each reference is a limited edition of just 888 pieces.

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FEATURE

The Sharkhunter A diver’s watch built for urban wear.

Words by Bert Casal

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FEATURE

D

OXA was first established in 1889 by Georges Ducommun in the small town of Le Locle, Switzerland. He started out as an apprentice with an established watchmaker in 1880. He had a passion for mechanical precision and beauty. But no matter how well he did with his apprenticeship, he was never satisfied. He had a desire to make things even better. Eight years later, at the age of 21, he decided to move out of his comfort zone and opened up his own business, Georges Ducommun, Fabriques Doxa.

Over the years, his creations have brought him recognition beyond Switzerland. His pieces garnered awards at the Exposition Universelle et Internationale, at the World’s Fair in Belgium, and at the World’s Fair in Milan, Italy.

At the turn of the century, endurance races were rising rapidly. The sport was in dire need of a robust and reliable dashboard-mounted clock with an adequate power reserve. Georges came up with the 8-day DOXA Calibre, which became standard equipment on Bugatti’s racing cars. Not long after, DOXA clocks were promptly featured in other automotive brands.

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In 1967, DOXA launched the revolutionary SUB concept, considered to be the first truly “mainstream” professional diving watch. The radical innovations it introduced at the time quickly made it the benchmark for professionals.

Water resistant to 300 meters, it was the first to have a unidirectional rotating bezel with dive time and depth indications for ascending back to the surface without decompression stops. The SUB was developed with diving legend Jacques-Yves Cousteau and introduced radical innovations that made it the benchmark for military and professional divers, even to this day.

Back then the US Navy’s no-decompression table was the diver’s standard, enabling divers to monitor their time underwater as a function of depth to ensure a safe, no-stop return to the surface. Based on the science developed by the US Navy, DOXA engineers incorporated two separate scales into the bezel, one orange for the outer "depth" ring and the other black for the inner "minutes" ring — a DOXA patent.

The DOXA SUB watch would become an easily recognizable legend: It was also the first diving watch ever to come with a bright orange dial, contrasting with the traditional black or white dials of the time.

The SUB 300β Sharkhunter Today, more than 50 years after it was first launched, DOXA suits up in a color combination as intriguing as it is self-evident: The SUB 300β Sharkhunter’s black and gold color scheme with its interplay of dark and bright, of matte and glossy, of showy and stealthy, remains deeply connected with the DOXA codes that defined the icon.

Starting from the premise that a sports watch should feel right under any circumstance, the SUB 300β Sharkhunter retains all of its original DNA while cultivating a sleeker, more stylish appeal. Here, DOXA ever so slightly reworked the design to achieve a slimmer watch, resulting in a profile of just 11.95mm (13.65mm for the SUB 300T) as well as a lower bezel height (by 0.5mm) compared to the SUB 300T. The result is extravagance with a sense of proportion and a choice of materials that connect the watch to our time. A way of juxtaposing elements that seems to have been waiting beneath the surface all along: the black ceramic case, the matte grained dial with black-onblack markings…and the dazzling contrast with the mission-critical information provided by the hands and indexes, and the functional components of the bezel and crown in 18K 3N gold. The DOXA SUB 300β Sharkhunter comes on a black FKM rubber strap for a particularly

comfortable fit. Sporting DOXA markings on both sides, its black PVD folding clasp with ratcheting wetsuit extension features the embossed ‘DOXA Fish’ symbol.

DOXA has always believed in gradually, carefully improving and expanding its diving watches. This is especially true of the most emblematic of them all: the SUB 300T; it remains among the rare diving watches to have significantly marked Swiss watchmaking history.

The 42.5mm-diameter SUB 300β Sharkhunter is equipped with a pressure-resistant titanium container to protect the movement, the patented DOXA unidirectional rotating bezel in 18K 3N gold with dual indication of dive time (in minutes) and depth (in feet) for no-stop dives, a screwdown crown also in 18K 3N gold, and a waterresistance rating of 30 ATM (equivalent to 300 meters) for exploring the seabed in total freedom.

Its scratch resistant sapphire crystal is treated with anti-reflective coating and the COSC-certified Swiss automatic movement provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

The SUB 300β Sharkhunter is the indispensable tool for those who depend on a reliable, high-performance watch for underwater adventures, but also cultivate an elegant, contemporary sport-chic look.

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ALL GOOD THINGS...

Just in time to cap the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s 60th anniversary celebrations with a bang Words by Kit Payumo

he iconic TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is one of the brand’s most iconic models and is one of the most famous racing chronographs of all time.

It was created sixty years ago and as the story goes, its origins hark back to the early 1960s and how Jack Heuer was unsatisfied with TAG Heuer’s existing range of chronographs.

“In my first year at Ed Heuer & Co. SA, I participated in two Swiss car rallies,” explained Heuer. “The first rally had been a good experience for me but in the second one I took over the role of co-pilot, partly because I was quite good at map-reading thanks to my time in the scouts.We were doing fine until, close to the finish, I misread the dial of the Heuer 12-hour “Autavia” dashboard stopwatch by a minute. This error infuriated me and I realized that the dial of the stopwatch was unclear, confusing and very difficult to read correctly in a speeding rally car. So in the fall of 1962 I decided to start a new series.”

This new series resulted in a chronograph specifically designed for drivers and motor-racing enthusiasts with a wide-open, easy-to-read dial protected by a shock-resistant and waterproof case tough enough for road wear. Best of all, it was named after the legendary Carrera Panamericana race of the 1950s. Thing is, Jack Heuer never participated in it.

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La Carrera Panamericana was a border-toborder racing event held in Mexico similar to the Mille Miglia and Targa Florio in Italy. Organized by the Mexican government in 1950, the race was meant to celebrate the completion of the Mexican section of the Pan-American Highway.

Alas, the five-day, 3,507 km open road rally was infamously known to be one of the toughest and deadliest of its kind with generally only a third of its competitors crossing the finish line and 27 racers and spectators dying in the five years of its existence. This gave the Carrera Panamericana one of the highest mortality rates per race in the history of motor sports. This unusually high body count, and its resulting expense to the Mexican government saw the end of the race after 1954.

Jack Heuer heard of the Carrera Panamericana while attending the 12 Hours of Sebring in March of 1962, and was particularly struck by its infamous reputation. He was most especially struck by the word “Carrera,” which, of course, means, “race” in Spanish. Armed with this new “disruptive” name, Jack Heuer immediately registered the name upon his return to Switzerland that same year and set about creating what will become the iconic Carrera Chronograph.

“I first heard about the Carrera from Pedro Rodriguez at the Twelve Hours of Sebring, where I was the Official Timekeeper,” said Jack Heuer.

“He and his brother Ricardo were two of the fastest, smartest and bravest endurance drivers of all time.

To hear them talk of the Carrera, which our brand’s longtime friend Juan Manuel Fangio had won in 1953, but which had been stopped in 1955 after a number of fatalities, made my imagination soar. Just the sound of the name itself — elegant, dynamic, easily pronounced in all languages and charged with emotion. I knew then that my new chronograph was the perfect tribute to this legend.” The rest, as they say, is history, with the very first Heuer Carrera being launched the very next year at the Basel Fair in the spring of 1963.

This year marks 60 years of this iconic racing chronograph with the watchmaker marking this significant milestone with celebrations and tribute timepieces including the truly special Carrera Chronograph Glassbox, the most faithful recreation of the original chronograph to date inspired by the so-called “Glassbox” design of the domed hesalite crystals of the early Carrera models of the 1960s. But as they say, all good things must come to an end, and to cap this year’s 60th Anniversary celebrations, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Glassbox Chronograph, this time absolutely clad in gold.

To set itself apart from the other Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary editions, this all gold Carrera has its now familiar brushed and polished 39mm diameter Glassbox case and vertically brushed gold-plated dial forged in a stunning 18K 3N yellow gold alloy made of 75% gold, 12.5% silver, and 12.5% copper.

Further, this latest Carrera features solid gold chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, a gold crown at 3 o’clock, and a gold caseback with sapphire crystal, the heft of which adds to the solid feel of the timepiece.

Called the “modern spiritual successor to one of the best gold chronographs of all time (the Heuer Ref. 1158 CHN),” the new Carrera Glassbox Chronograph in gold is indeed, of a Glassbox design, the lack of bezel of which sees the sapphire crystal Glassbox extend to the very edge of the case in a graceful curve that gives the illusion of seamlessly merging into the case to create a cool, fluid aesthetic.

This uniquely shaped domed sapphire crystal features double anti-reflective coating and, as previously mentioned, has been ingeniously engineered by the TAG Heuer watchmakers to replicate the appearance of the plastic crystals used in the original Heuer Carrera watches in the 1960s and 70s. This shaped crystal is more than skin deep and adds to the high-performance character of the watch by extending over the

dial’s edge to seamlessly merge with the case. This has the benefit of allowing the tachymetric scale printed on the dial’s outer edge to be read literally from any angle.

On the vertically brushed dial, the black azuré counters display the minutes and hours at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, respectively, while the permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock where the framed date window resides has been made “discreet” in homage to the original bi-compax layout of the Heuer ref. 1158 CHN. Faceted

indices are marked by a line running down the middle in black, a color repeated on both the central chronograph seconds and running seconds hands with 12 o’clock getting double indices.

The hour and minute hands, as well as the sub-counter hands are gold-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova, while tiny dots of lume mark the hours on the yellow gold-plated flange with a minute track that borders the tachymeter scale.

Best of all, the Glassbox “effect” offers warm, vintage-like distortions that when paired with the ingenious curved flange of the dial reinforces the domed effect.

Turn the watch over and the 21st century suddenly comes crashing back with a sapphire display caseback that showcases all the modern trappings of the updated Heuer 02 movement.

The calibre TH20-00 is the watchmaker’s latest self-winding calibre, and offers bi-directional winding to energize the mainspring faster with better precision, as well as offering up to 80 hours of autonomy when fully wound.

The new Carrera Glassbox Chronograph in yellow gold is matched with a racing inspired black perforated calfskin leather strap fastened with a yellow gold pin buckle or a vintage-inspired mesh bracelet also made of gold. And for those who are wondering, the new Carrera Glassbox Chronograph in Gold is not a limited edition but a permanently available model.

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FEATURE

A NEW FACE WITH UNWAVERING EXCELLENCE Rolex inaugurates its Perpetual collection with the Perpetual 1908.

Words by Bert Casal

E

legant, classic, and contemporary, the Perpetual 1908 immortalizes Rolex’s age-long daring spirit. But how did Rolex come to be?

Rolex is one of the most well-known watch brands in the world. No matter where you are, people recognize the brand and its logo. But unlike other watch brands, Rolex may be considered as a “young” brand, founded only in 1905 while others date as far back as the 18th century.

Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis in London. They called their company Wilsdorf and Davis. They imported Swiss movements, placed them in watch cases, then sold them to jewelers who put their own names on the dial. They marked their watches with “W&D” inside the caseback.

Wilsdorf wanted to change the name into something that is easier to remember, something that could easily be pronounced in any language, something short enough to fit on the face of the watch. So in 1908, he changed the name from Wilsdorf and Davis to Rolex.

The first World War came in 1914 and ended in 1918.

Because of the heavy post-war taxes in 1919 levied on luxury imports and high export duties on the silver and gold used for watch cases, Rolex had to move the company from England to Geneva, Switzerland. At around this time, Rolex and other watch brands were dealing with the problem of dust and moisture getting into the case through the dial and crown.

In 1926, a third-party casemaker produced a waterproof and rustproof wristwatch for Rolex, giving it the name “Oyster”.

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The original patent was credited to somebody else, but Rolex bought the patent and marketed the product.

In 1927, Rolex lent an Oyster to British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, who swam the English Channel fastened around her neck. The Oyster survived the over 10-hour ordeal. In 1931, Rolex patented a self-winding mechanism called a Perpetual rotor, a semi-circular plate that rotates to wind the mainspring at the movement of the wearer’s wrist. When Rolex put this movement into the Oyster, the Oyster Perpetual was born.

As the years went on, Rolex was able to produce iconic watch designs such as the Daytona. One look at the fluted bezel and you know that it’s a Datejust. These designs have been around and will continue to be part of Rolex’s design cues for years to come. This year, however, Rolex introduces a new collection to its already impressive line of watches: the Perpetual collection. This new line of watches will exhibit the new face of excellence, the same excellence that Rolex has had for the past decades. The first watch under this new banner is called the Perpetual 1908, a name given to the model in homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf coined the name “Rolex” to sign his creations.

This elegant and understated watch features a slim case crowned with a bezel that is part domed and part finely fluted.

In 18 ct yellow or white gold, the case is fitted with a transparent case back which allows the technical sophistication and the decoration on the movement to be seen and admired. The particularly sleek dial, either intense white or intense black depending on the version, is graced with Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12, and faceted index hour markers. It also offers a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, with the words ‘Superlative

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FEATURE

Chronometer’ above it in an arc. The hour hand is distinctive for the circle just before the tip, while the minute hand is shaped like a two-edged sword. The model is fitted on a brown or black alligator leather strap, equipped with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp. The 1908 is equipped with the newly unveiled calibre 7140. This movement includes the Chronergy escapement, the Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers.

The escapement is made up of several moving parts and is considered the “heart" of the watch. Power is released by the mainspring (that thing you wind up to make a mechanical watch move) and transferred to the escapement. It has a balance wheel with specially designed gear teeth. The power transferred to the escapement makes the balance wheel turn.

As the balance wheel turns, a pallet fork (with two “tines”) stops the balance wheel from turning using one tine. As the fork releases the gear tooth, the other tine comes in and stops it again. This allows the balance wheel to turn one gear tooth at a time. This is also what causes the ticking sound you hear on mechanical watches. As the balance wheel turns, it causes the hands of the watch to turn around the dial, telling time.

The classical escapement was not a very efficient design. A lot of the energy it receives from the mainspring is dissipated rather than efficiently transferred to the balance wheel. And a lot of this has to do with inertia. Inertial is defined as the tendency for objects to remain at rest or remain in motion until acted upon by an external force. The heavier an object at rest is, the more force needs to be exerted to move it. Likewise, the heavier an object in motion is, the more force is needed to stop it.

Take the case of the balance wheel. If it is too heavy, it will take a lot of force to make it turn. If this is so, then a lot of the energy is used up just to make the balance wheel turn. That is a lot of wasted energy. To address this problem, Rolex decided to lighten up the components and make them smaller and/or skinnier. They also changed the geometry of the escape wheel teeth by skeletonising them. By reducing the amount of energy needed to turn the balance wheel, they were able to increase the power reserve of the watch.

In addition to the redesign of the balance wheel, they also manufactured it and the pallet fork out of paramagnetic materials, making them resistant to magnetic fields, which ultimately increases the precision of the watch.

A hairspring (or balance spring) is a spring attached to the balance wheel. It causes the balance wheel to oscillate with a resonant frequency when the watch is running, which controls the speed at which the wheels of the timepiece turn, thus the rate of movement of the hands. For the 1908, Rolex uses a Syloxi (a silicon and silicon oxide composite) hairspring, a product of years of research that makes full use of the potential of silicon technology and brings an exceptional level of precision and reliability. By using a Syloxi hairspring, Rolex is able to minimize the effects of environmental disturbances that affect the oscillator’s performance like temperature variations, magnetic disturbances, gravity, and shocks. This innovation allows the movement to be up to 10 times more accurate than traditional hairsprings.

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The third feature of this movement is the Paraflex shock absorbers. The invention of shock absorbers on the balance wheel for watches isn’t a new thing. It was invented as early as the 1930s. But it had its limits. In an effort to optimize the reliability of these shock absorbers, Rolex redesigned its essential functions and developed a system that would increase its resistance by 50 per cent while preserving the chronometric properties of the balance wheel. Its innovative geometry allows the shock absorber to withstand extremely demanding conditions. It ensures that the spring remains firmly positioned on the support with no risk of deformation.

It can also be positioned in any direction on installation without affecting performance.

Like all Rolex watches, the Perpetual 1908 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria. For a long time now, watches are considered a chronometer (a watch that tells accurate time) if it passes the tests conducted by the COSC. The parameter is that the watch should have a time variance of +6 to -4 seconds per day.

Rolex’s parameter is set at +2 to -2 seconds per day, a rate significantly smaller than the COSC for official certification.

The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

The 1908 features a 39 mm case in 18 ct yellow or white gold, with gracious lines and a transparent back that allows the refined aesthetics of the movement to be admired as well as the pivoting of the oscillating weight. The curve of the lugs is highlighted thanks to a gentle chamfering on their top edges. The bezel is divided – the lower part being given an elegant fluting and the upper part domed. Made of virtually scratchproof sapphire, the domed crystal and the transparent case back benefit from an anti-reflective coating. Guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 50 meters (165 feet), the case provides optimal protection for the movement nestled inside.

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“This new collection is a reinterpretation of traditional watchmaking style imbued with quintessential watchmaking expertise and the aesthetic heritage of Rolex.”

The 1908 is fitted on an alligator leather strap. Matte brown or matte black, this elegant strap is individually tailored for the new watch, with a green calfskin lining and tone-on-tone stitching. It is equipped with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp, in 18 ct yellow or white gold. Thanks to its carefully designed shape, the Dualclasp always sits centered on the wrist.

Inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor, the 1908 is the first member of the Perpetual collection. This new collection is a reinterpretation of traditional watchmaking style imbued with quintessential watchmaking expertise and the aesthetic heritage of Rolex. The 1908 is defined by its design, which conveys the full strength of the watch’s character in the simplicity of the display and by details that confer its unique identity. This timepiece perfectly embodies the spirit of the Perpetual collection, at whose core lies the celebration of the art of watchmaking in its noblest form.

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GRAIL WATCH A T R U LY R E M A R K A B L E T I M E P I E C E

Words by

William Herrera

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“Every minute repeater has its own one-of-a-kind sound”

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ost of the time, watch enthusiasts disagree about a number of things, but the one item that most watch aficionados agree on, is that a minute repeater is truly an exceptional timepiece.

A. Lange & Söhne just launched the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in Honeygold, the only mechanical wristwatch that combined jumping numerals and a decimal minute repeater.

Sounding off on every hour, minute and second by way of the pusher instead of a slide, this is an innovative idea; using the twin mainspring barrel which provides adequate energy to go around sans the need to have another spring to tension.

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Another ingenious feature is that the striking mechanism can no longer be activated if the power reserve is lower than 12 hours, which is marked by a red dot on the indicator; this is to ensure that the repeater sequence would not be prematurely interrupted, which would make the watch stop running.

“Every minute repeater has its own, one-of-akind sound. Apart from gongs and gong hammers, the case material has the greatest impact on the sound. Similar to a musical instrument, different tone colors and sound impressions are created, depending on the material used. That is also the case with our novelty in honey gold. It sounds different to all other materials — truly distinctive,” stated Anthony de Haas Director Product Development A. Lange & Söhne.

“To attain this particular sound quality, all parameters are matched to one another,” extolled Tino Bobe – Director Manufacture. “The gongs that are meticulously hand-tuned deliver a pure, resonant sound and harmonize with the sound characteristics of the Lange-exclusive case alloy. Additionally, all components are carefully tuned by one of our master watchmakers.

This requires multiple disassembly, reworking, reassembly and finally, testing procedures. Much of the manufacturing time is thus dedicated to perfecting the sound: to complete such a watch calls for acute hearing and extreme dexterity.”

Only a master watchmaker has the virtuosity to handle the elaborate polishing of the gongs and blackpolishing of the gong hammers — thus the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold is both acoustically and visually impressive.

While the repeater is running the switching action of the numerals discs is delayed, and the crown cannot be pulled. This feature ensures that there is no interference with the strike work sampling sequence and the acoustic indication of time is not impeded. The longest series of tones occurs at 12:59 hrs., taking about 20 seconds to complete the repeater sequence. If a new minute begins while the repeater is striking, the minute and/or hour jump occurs immediately after the tone ends. Thereafter, the next numeral disc switching cycle takes place with the regular timing when the seconds hand passes the 60-seconds mark.

The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in Honeygold, with a gray dial, is limited to 30 pieces worldwide. Using a Lange manufacture Calibre L043.5, manually wound, with a 36-hour power reserve when fully wound, and striking mechanism is not engaged. Adhering to Lange standards, these pieces are crafted, designed, decorated by hand, and precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate is made from untreated German Silver, and the balance and escape wheel cock are hand-engraved.

The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater in Honeygold measures 44.2mm in diameter and a height of just 14.1mm., with a sapphire crystal and caseback, the dial is 925 silver, gray, with an elegant hand stitched dark brown leather strap with a deployant buckle, also in 18 carat Honeygold.

FEATURE

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LV’S T NEW TAMBOUR BEATS THE DRUMS OF CHANGE THE NEW COLLECTION IS A NOD TO THIS 90S CLASSIC

Words by Alvin Uy

he drums of change have been beating in the house of one of the world’s most famous luxury brands, Louis Vuitton. Since 1854, Louis Vuitton has been creating highly crafted luggage, handbags, and accessories and has defined the “Art of Travel” for over a century and a half. In the last couple of decades, it has opened its doors to artisans and designers to develop high-end timepieces and jewelry.

Louis Vuitton’s fairly new Director of Watches is Jean Arnault, son of billionaire Bernard Arnault, the chairman and CEO of LVMH Moët Hennessy — Louis Vuitton. This is considered the world’s leading luxury products group. The elder Arnault became the new owner of LVMH in 1989 and has since served as the group’s CEO. The younger Arnault’s installation as the brand’s director who will oversee its watches division is a sign of things to come as the 25-year-old executive who’s a graduate from MIT introduced the new Tambour watch line. Within the year of the young Arnault’s new post, he is positioning to invigorate the brand’s take on high horology on its timepiece collections, starting with the Tambour. He was also instrumental in reviving the group’s niche timepiece labels, Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth, two highly respected brands named after its watchmakers.

In the late spring of this year, it relaunched the Maison’s core timepiece collection, the Tambour which first came out in 2002. Tambour is the French word for drum, and it was first seen with a 13.2mm thick round watch case fitted with leather straps and some two decades later, it has evolved and was reintroduced as an elegant integrated metal bracelet luxury sports watch with very serious haute horology firepower.

Although the visual emblems of the Tambour, starting with its drum-shaped case with curved sides, and a bezel marked with the twelve Louis Vuitton letters were retained, albeit a much thinner and more elegant 8.2mm thick and 40mm diameter case. The Tambour’s other visual aspects have been reinterpreted, which perhaps is because of the LVMH’s ownership of Gerald Genta, who crafted several iconic integrated metal bracelet designs for Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Omega and IWC.

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Tambour Stainless steel W1ST20

Tambour Stainless steel W1ST10

Tambour Steel & Gold W1SP10

Tambour Rose Gold W1PG10

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The cal. LFT023

The Tambour collection will have two models in steel with a blue or silver dial, a two-tone steel and rose gold with a gray dial, one in rose gold with brown dial, and one in yellow gold with a white dial. Arnault says it isn’t a watch for everyone, and much certainly not for someone who has just started to appreciate mechanical luxury timepieces. The new Tambour line has all the hallmarks of a well-made luxury timepiece, crafted with traditional watchmaking techniques and touches of modern details.

Starting off with the movement, the heart of every serious timepiece is a well-made and high quality chronometer-certified cal.

LFT023 designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers. The cal. LFT023 is rated with a timekeeping accuracy of between -4 and +6 seconds per day, and comes with a 50-hour power reserve supplied by a highinertia 22k rose gold micro-rotor. Looking at the see-through caseback, the movement is highly finished with an engine turned baseplate with overlapping perlage finish, black polished screwheads, and instead of using rubies, it uses clear sapphire for its 31 jewels which visually worked very well visually to retain its monotone look at of the movement. The movement has a 50 hour power reserve and is powered by a nice and thick gold rotor.

The lovely blue dial of the all-steel version will probably be the crowd favorite, and its unique gradient dial finish with two different shades of blue between the inner circle and outer band of the dial. Other interesting details include 12 v-groove chamfered indices that are highly polished in contrast with the dial surface, which gives a playful and shimmering effect when looking at the face of the watch on different angles. Another notable detail is the “Fab. En Suisse” mark at the 6 o’clock position instead of the usual

Tambour Yellow Gold W1YG10

“Swiss Made” label. The luminescent hands and numbers offer high legibility even at night, and is featured in all the variants.

The Tambour in steel and rose gold on the other hand, also has a two-tone finish on the dial which includes the applique digits and chamfered indices in rose gold that pops out for that two-tone effect. It continues to reflect excellent craftsmanship from the case finishing to the bracelet, and is accented in rose gold used for its center links, crown, bezel, aside from the indices and skeletonize hands.

The flagship rose gold Tambour variant, the most expensive of the three, has a dark brown dial which is a nod to the original Tambour dial color introduced two decades ago. The

warm gradient brown dial works very well with the rose gold accents and the precious metal bracelet enjoys contrasting finishes with both brushed and polished links, rounded and polished flanks, giving it a very supple feel that’s secured by a clasp that’s almost concealed to give a very elegant and thin profile. Last but not least, the full yellow gold Tambour with white dial is a future classic in the making. Featuring yellow gold accents in the dial, the two shaded dial offers a subtle yet playful mix of colors.

We look forward to seeing more models in the Louis Vuitton watch collection in the near future, and indeed, the drums of change aptly signals that one of the oldest luxury brands will be in good hands with the new generation keepers of time.

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1

Strength to strength

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G-Shock Celebration Words by Katherine Cunanan

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Yuki Mutsui, Tony Yiu, Sena Kuroda, Isabella Concepcion, Ylona Garcia, Levon Rondina, Allyn Mar

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Isabella Concepcion, Head Of Business Development, CSC Time Inc.

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Sena Kuroda, Sales Manager Timepiece Casio Singapore

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Levon Rondina, Cheif Branding Officer Titan22

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-Shock has been celebrating 40 years of toughness and passion, and they are looking forward to many more. For a brand that was created by bringing something completely fresh and new to the watch market, this means both sticking to tradition as a base while also expanding outwards.

The recent collaboration with sneaker head stalwart Titan 22 is an example. The go-to store for basketball mania and style that was itself a product of passion, it was an excellent partner for G-Shock. The end result was a watch that was subdued yet on-brand for both names. A party with indie Philippine musicians and artists was held in Bonifacio High Street, along with displays detailing the history of the watch brand and special interactive displays.

G-Shock has been continuing to take new steps in other directions as well. Their products have become extremely popular with new watch enthusiasts who themselves would make the watches more personal with special touches and even modifications. G-Shock answered their requests with pieces that included combinations of color and splash and whole new surfaces, even cases that are almost clear. The brand that began as a drastic change to the market has created models that now show their strength by boldly experimenting with those now-iconic lines.

The global anniversary year will continue to be celebrated. Bali will play host to the “Shock The World” celebration in December at the Potato Head Beach Club. Legendary G-SHOCK founder Kikuo Ibe has been making the rounds as the brand reinforces their idea of toughness in a changing modern world. He was recently in Manila and will be in Bali as well.

It is interesting to see how a brand that began life as a disruptor changes in today’s world. It is in the unique position of still being considered a young person’s brand by many but also having models that are considered iconic if not somewhat retro. Their answer of fresh ideas and inspired collaborations is clearly working, and it is just that that is being celebrated around the world this year.

FEATURE

Past, Present, Whimsy Why Nivada Grenchen is getting enthusiast hearts going again Words by Katherine Cunanan

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he name Nivada Grenchen has been making enthusiast waves for the last few years, even longer if you were deep into the collector world. You would see it in watch collector meet-ups, you would see vintage pieces start showing up on wrists and online, and then you would see newly produced pieces that very nicely brought that mid-century look and vibe into the modern world at a rather approachable price point.

Who are they and what are they doing?

Nivada Grenchen has been around for a while.

It traces its beginnings as far back as 1926 in Granges (Grenchen) Switzerland when it was created as a company that produced watches for more than one company or under more than one name. At that time, watches were becoming more mainstream than luxury and more and more small companies were striking out to create their own vision of what the world wanted and needed.

Nivada Grenchen began making automatic watches in the 1930s and, as was typical of the time, began creating tough tool watches for those that had specific needs. Think exploration, timing, waterproofness, and the like.

Their first waterproof watch was called the Antarctic. Produced in 1950, it was their first waterproof automatic and was used in an expedition to the South Pole. Members of the US Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 project used the aptlynamed “Antarctic” while they were part of the impressive International Geophysical Year (19571958) program. This was a collaborative effort by different nations to carry out earth science studies and exploration.

The company went on to create other lines, such as the waterproof chronograph named the Chronomaster. It also focused on the diving

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Antarctic Diver

Chronomaster

Depthmaster

Super-Antarctic

world with the Depthomatic a watch with a depth indicator. It followed this up a year later with the even deeper-diving Depthmaster. The name was reborn in 2018, and has been happily creating some very true-to-history wristwatches in small runs for enthusiasts and collectors.

Sizes of the watches are more like the originals than most modern releases, the Super Antarctic and the wonderfully design-era-evocative Antarctic Spider for example having 38mm cases housing their Swiss movements.

Their Chronograph watches such as the Chronokings and the Broad Arrow Manual are also at 38mm. These pieces are excellent examples of the look of the era, and indeed we often compare them directly with vintage pieces. A great way to have that classic look with modern consistency.

Dive watches like the Depthmasters are slightly larger at 39mm. Some of the dive watches have, if you look carefully, indices that may look surprisingly familiar. Their latest line is the F77 Automatic, a 37mm integrated bracelet steel watch from a design produced in the 1970s.

“...looking to the past for inspiration and idea but also happily lives in the modern enthusiast world...”

Antarctic Spider

Chronoking

F77 Automatic

Super Antarctic Black and Brown

The company, under CEO Guillaume Laudet, may be looking to the past for inspiration and idea but also happily lives in the modern enthusiast world. Indeed, it is Mr. Laudet’s passion for vintage watches that unearthed pieces such as the F77. As such, they are becoming increasingly well known for dealing with small groups and individuals in the watch enthusiast world, creating special pieces that answer the desires for those with vision and the appreciation for the love behind the watch. They also go whimsical with collaborations with seconde/seconde for pieces like the Super Antarctic Keep Frozen.

In a world where there has been too much hype over name and model and price, companies like Nivada Grenchen are taking their passion and their ability out to a waiting enthusiast world in amounts that previously would be considered way too small. But they are finding their market and indeed may be the ones that help lift the horological seas, as they speak to both newly interested and those looking for pieces that speak more directly to them.

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That Old Magpie Brain: Reflections on a Collector’s Journey FEATURE

Words by

Jose Martin V. Ursúa

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hey say that three data points make a trend. Does that also mean that three or more like objects compose a collection?

If you are a regular reader of Calibre, then the odds are high that you consider yourself a collector of watches. It also wouldn’t be unreasonable to extrapolate that you collect other things as well, whether they be stamps, cameras, or fine art. So what drives us to acquire more than our practical needs dictate? After all, many are satisfied by having just one example of something desirable: a car, a house, even a spouse! Surely, as refined men of culture, there is something that separates us from the thieving magpie, driven by instinct to collect shiny objects to line its nest. Or are we just magpies with more disposable income?

I can speak of my experience in purchasing my first proper watch. And by “proper,” I mean something beyond the $100 fashion quartzes (and one $90 mechanical Soviet watch) that I wore from elementary school and through my university years.

About 15 years ago, I was working a proper office job, in a bank’s head office skyscraper at the end of Ayala Avenue. This was serious business, for serious men! It was time to put away childish things like the corroded “Benetton by Bulova” that I had worn daily for over a decade. Months of intense research followed — at times excruciating, but mostly exhilarating. I had mentally committed to spending over $2000 for a watch, and the last thing I wanted was to pay that princely sum for a piece that I wouldn’t enjoy forever. At last, I settled on a watch that is one of our hobby’s staples: The Omega Speedmaster Professional aka “The Moon Watch.” This was not the blindingly obvious option that is today, so it took some time before I gravitated toward its functional and elegant looks, and its place in 20th century history. There were a couple of close calls with similar watches in its family — specifically, a Mark II and a Speedmaster Reduced — but these would only reinforce my resolve to buy the real deal. At last, I took receipt of a 2008 Moon Watch, moved it from its awful lipstick-pink box onto my wrist, and all was right with the world. For about six months.

The Speedmaster was supposed to be my one and only watch to accompany me to the end of my days. Instead I sat in a tcc on Orchard Road, negotiating over the price of the Longines Legend Diver ensconced in the huge wooden box on the table. The time I had spent researching my first purchase opened my eyes to the broad, deep, and endlessly fascinating world of watches. One rabbit hole led to another, and I exhaustively bookmarked and read through countless websites.

I marinated in watch content, absorbing facts and opinions that would ensure that I made the right choice. But there also came a realization: The Speedy was the perfect watch for me… most of the time. Surely, I needed one more watch to fill in the gaps, and wouldn’t this classic Super Compressor-style diver fit the bill? That process would repeat a few more times, before I no longer felt the need to justify the next acquisition.

It’s amazing how quickly one’s attitudes can change on collections. One of my other passions is bicycling, and in my life I have owned exactly three road bikes — and until recently, never more than one at a time. Prior to October of this year, my ride was a 2012 Cannonade SuperSix Ultegra. With one decade and 35,000 kilometers behind it, this lightweight and purely mechanical racer is thoroughly depreciated, but still more than a match for others on the road and to my own level as a rider. Last month, I finally took the plunge and bought a modern bike — a Time Alpe d’Huez with wireless electronic shifting, hydraulic disc brakes, tubeless tires, and cables routed within the frame for better aerodynamics. All non-crucial items, but they definitely enhance the quality of life on the saddle.

Within two months of getting this dream bike, I was on eBay eyeing a 20-year-old Calfee Tetra with Campagnolo Record components. (I realize that I’m going hard into jargon that only cyclists of a certain age will understand, but that’s part of the appeal of our hobbies, isn’t it?) This Calfee was, more or less, a modernized version of the bicycle ridden in the early 90s by Greg LeMond, 3-time Tour de France winner and one of my childhood heroes. It’s a gorgeous example of early carbon fibre framebuilding, with spiderweb-like gussets where the tubes intersect, and the material’s 3K weave gleaming under the clear coat. And it was in my size! (Well, almost. It was 1cm too big.)

In the end, I held back due to practical considerations (i.e.

Where do I put this thing? How often would I actually ride it?), but I surprised myself by even contemplating a third bike.

Chalk that up to the power of nostalgia, and the speed at which momentum builds in a growing collection.

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FEATURE

“Through these watches, I collect stories that I find fascinating. They may concern the watch’s significance, its provenance, or an owner’s long journey in acquiring it.”

The Singapore Longines was my onramp to the watch collector’s road, on which I continue to travel. In the early days, the motivation was mostly superficial: Is it beautiful? In fact, it didn’t even need to look particularly good on me, which is why I have a lovely Panerai Luminor that is honestly too big for my wrist. As I accumulated more watches, their appearance was still a vital factor, but I was equally fascinated by the history of each timepiece. How did it factor in a watch company’s evolution? What is its significance in horology, or even in the broader culture? You could say that I’ve become a collector of stories that I find fascinating — even those that I know would mightily bore the layman to tears. Perhaps the story is less about a watch’s importance, but rather a narrative about its byzantine development, or an owner’s long journey in acquiring it. I am especially fascinated by that latter pursuit: Research, chasing down leads, and obtaining rare parts and accessories all require much effort but can be so rewarding. The story might never be told to another (as mentioned, these can be mightily boring!), but keeping it in one’s own memory is satisfying enough. On the other hand, “I worked, saved $20,000, and spent it at the AD” is not a tale that I find especially hairraising. If that is your “Grail lore” then you might be missing the point of Grail watches entirely.

The acquisitive impulse is not the same for everyone, so I posed the question of collecting to others. The first was a coworker, whom I had clocked as a fellow enthusiast on the first day of my current job. I’d spotted a big Planet Ocean on his wrist, and it wasn’t long before we were talking. Soon afterward, he enjoyed a significant win by signing a lucrative partnership deal. How did he celebrate? He called his “watch guy” (i.e. a colleague in Hong Kong) who found him a brandnew Submariner with a reasonable markup. I hadn’t seen this coworker in a month, as his wife had just given birth to their second child. Over dinner, I asked him whether he planned to mark the occasion with a new purchase. He said he hadn’t decided yet, but emphasized that he buys watches that he knows will accumulate in value so they can be passed onto his children. Perhaps it’s the zeal of a new father, but he is always keen to emphasize that family is his top priority. In fact, he tipsily doubled down: “I don’t give a hoot about payments,” (for we both work in the payments industry) but he cares about it only insofar as it allows him to provide for his family.

It didn’t give me much insight as to which watch he would be buying next, but since he was getting misty-eyed at that point, I switched to other topics.

Onto the next respondent: One of my best friends in Toronto divides his time between Canada, where his new wife lives and works, and south Asia, where he runs his family’s conglomerate. Despite having tremendous wealth, he might be the most sensible and frugal man I know and his needs will always override his desires. For example, he will continue to drive a 10-year-old Lexus IS250 that’s looking a little rough around the edges as long as it continues to run. (Until death, then.) He is also a keen hunter and fisherman, and the only

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FEATURE

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items he owns that threaten to become a collection are his halfdozen rods. But he’s quick to deny that he’s a collector, because each rod has a specific purpose and, to him, “collection” implies frivolity. It took a lot of convincing (from his bride and from me!) for him to accept a white-gold Rolex Datejust as a wedding gift from his new in-laws. That gave him a third watch, joining a hand-me-down Omega Constellation and a cheapie quartz Armani. I get the feeling that the act of collecting is antithetical to his personality, and wonder what he really thinks about his good friend with such cavalier spending habits!

After my encounters with that incomprehensibly sensible pair, I needed to connect with a more likeminded collector.

Calibre has featured Nelson Wu and the watch stand/sculpture that his company R Werk released earlier this year. Recent months have been exceptionally exciting for the “TYP-01,” which has garnered high-profile attention in the Laguna Seca paddock during Rennsport Reunion, and in artist Daniel Arsham’s “20 Years” exhibition in New York. I met with Nelson at Toronto’s motorhead hangout, RCLUB, and chatted with him on a comfortable couch next to a yellow Integra Type R, a white Testarossa, and an immaculate 912. When asked, Nelson had a characteristically long think about his own development as a collector, from haphazardly purchasing any camera lens that caught his eye to, now, seriously considering a step into the rarefied world of vintage Ferrari. He summed up his thoughts concisely: “Collection must encompass intent and curation.

Otherwise, it’s just hoarding.”

By this formulation, one does not wind up a collector through mere happenstance. There must be a drive toward a goal, even if it is indiscernible to observers. I am reminded of the man who amassed 114 Volkswagen Golfs or even Grahame Fowler and his array of MilSubs and Comex Submariners. As the saying goes, there is method in their apparent madness, but there is a vast grey area in which a collection can be confused with a hoard. With an education in engineering, Nelson views himself as a collector of ideas that resonate. For example, as a lifelong Porsche fan he has often thought about acquiring a 996.1 GT3 (not the GT3 that most Porschefiles dream of) as it is a crucial component in understanding how the company became what it is today. Similarly, the aforementioned Ferrari

“A collection requires intent and curation. Anything else is just hoarding. One does not become a collector by mere happenstance.”

would be a concrete link to Enzo himself, a titan who cast a very long shadow on motorsport history. Nelson feels that becoming the car’s custodian would bring him closer to that legacy and help him better comprehend the motivations and considerations that evolved the automobile.

Where does that leave me? I return to my earlier assertion that I am interested in collecting stories, whether they’re my own adventures towards acquiring a watch, or tales about the past lives of the watch that landed on my wrist. But I fully reserve the right to buy something that, regardless of provenance or context, is simply pretty and shiny, and would look good in the corner of my nest. All the rationalizations in the world do not alter the fact that these are unnecessary, emotional purchases. The magpie and the collector — we are birds of a feather.

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N OV E M B E R - D E C E M B E R

20 2 3

PARALLEL PASSION Desirable Diversion

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THE BEST JUST GOT BETTER! THE PREFERRED CAMERA OF DIGITAL CREATORS AND PROFESSIONALS Words by

William Herrera

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PARALLEL PASSION

eica — arguably the best camera one can buy, recently came out with the SL2-S; the Leica SL2-S is a versatile, fullframe mirrorless camera.

Designed and built in Germany, the SL2-S is as robust as it comes, with the steel metal construction, the leather wrapping, and an IP54 certification, making this a photog’s best equipment on any photo and video shoot. With a 24-megapixel CMOS BSI Sensor, and legendary Leica lenses, the SL2-S delivers exceptional images even in less than ideal lightning conditions. Camera software is regularly updated via continuous firmware updates to meet the requirements of professional photo producers.

In video format, the 12-bit RAW video output is at 60 fps in 4:2:2 and an exceptional L-Log color space; The SL2-S integrates seamlessly into professional video workflows by way of its full-size HDMI port.

The user interface, which we found to be very user friendly even for an amateur photographer, has separate photo and video functions, and is completely customizable. All external controls are the essentials that ensure operation of the camera will be intuitive and simple; this to me is what makes the Leica design truly endearing.

The Maestro III Processor powers the SL2-S, providing an extraordinary working speed in

L

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combination with a 4-gigabyte buffer memory.

Plainly put, this means that image series with up to 25 DNG images/sec are just as possible as almost unlimited image series in JPEG format.

The Leica Object Detection AF is reliable and fast; using the SL2-S in a sporting environment would not pose a problem with its number of modes and functions, including eye and face detection. Even in a fast-paced game like basketball, the SL2-S would lock-in on the subjects on the court, and the powerful AF system instantly recognizes if the subject(s) are stationary or in motion. The electronic viewfinder of the SL2-S has a 5.76-megapixel resolution and up to 120 fps which translates into a natural looking image on the viewfinder; once used in live mode,

the eye sensor switches between the viewfinder and the 3.2-inch touch display.

Image transferring and post-processing are made simple by the Leica FOTOS app which connects seamlessly to your mobile or iPad via Bluetooth connection and wi-fi. The app likewise provides necessary firmware updates to keep the SL2-S up to date and adds precise geolocation data to your images on demand.

It is no wonder why Leica is the preferred camera of choice by digital creators and professionals.

Check out the SL2-S at the Leica Store Manila at the lower level of Greenbelt 5, Ayala Mall, Makati City.

“THE LEICA DESIGN IS TRULY ENDEARING”

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TIMEFRAME

The Grand Seiko Shizukuishi Studio takes inspiration not only for its watches from its surroundings. The area around them is famous for iron craft and wood craft. Those craftspeople also create the watchmakers tables for the studio.

Photo by

Carl S. Cunanan

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