W W W. C A L I B R E M A G A Z I N E . C O M VOLUME 16 ISSUE 131 / JAN- MAR 2021
PAT E K P H I L I P P E GRANDE AND PETITE SONNERIE REF.6301P
PHP275
IS S N 1 908- 4 994
Minutes January-March 2021
Editor's words
I
t is interesting how quick things have gone. It is now March, and this was around the time last year that we were wondering about whether there would or not be any watch fairs in 2020. That pretty much didn’t happen anywhere but online, with one or two small exceptions. This year has already seen the LVMH Watch Week, with participation by Bvlgari, Zenith and Hublot. TAG Heuer, also under the same umbrella, launched their renewed partnership with Porsche just a bit later. Watch releases have become more spread out in terms of time. We have seen a lot of interesting pieces that we have spoken about already and some we cannot yet discuss. We have seen the brands that were strong pretty much grow stronger, and we have seen many enthusiasts and consumers continue to be confused by what some brands are actually doing. We will see a fair amount of pieces in 2021 that were just delayed from 2020. In fact you have already seen some of them, whether in this issue or online or in our videos or chats. We expect that to continue, as it was just very logistically challenging to get watches out smoothly and on schedule. Some brands nailed it. Rolex, for example, and Tudor, were able to stick to a schedule they already
discussed ahead of time last year. Which of course meant that they already had their plans in place just in case, in fact probably several plans in place just in case. Someone just today asked me when we could expect to see the watches that will be announced in April in Watches & Wonders (online, and what used to be SIHH basically but now with way more big brands) in stores and on wrists. One interesting thing that was actually coming even before the pandemic but which really took hold during it was that time between announcement and delivery shrunk massively for many companies and brands. So what this means is this. Look at what we, Calibre, did last year. Look at what we announced and when and how soon pieces hit the stores. And be ready. And yes, there are some awesome pieces that are in store as we speak, some available and some still under wraps. I really really do not want to have the watch industry get sucked into the whole “drop” culture of all the over-hyped consumer goods. Or sucked deeper, as some argue that it already has. Watches are far more than mere trinkets or pieces to be had because other want them. They have heritage, technology, story and soul. Let’s all see what 2021 has for stories. Stay safe, stay well and be kind.
Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief
carsandcalibres
2 www.calibremagazine.com
Montblanc is on a mission to the peak
Words by
kit o. payuMo
P
aying homage to Minerva SA’s forays in exploration in the 1920s and 30s, Montblanc presents the newest editions of the Montblanc 1858 line, a collection with large diameters, and highly contrasting dials, that feature the original Montblanc logo from the 1930s with its historical font and emblem of the Mont Blanc Mountain at its center. These are presented for the first time in a new blue themed “capsule” of grade-5 titanium with contrasting blue and icy white dial details inspired by the colors of ice,
glaciers and all manner of snowcapped environments. Starting with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, this 100-piece limited edition mono-pusher chronograph makes full use of its snow-capped theme with a 44mm fully satin-finished grand-5 titanium case matched with an icy-blue solid gold dial enhanced by vibrant blue grand feu enamel with orange and white accents. This not only gives this vintage-inspired timepiece a more contemporary vibe, but also provides excellent readability in poor light conditions. It is powered by the calibre MB M16.13, a new two column wheel
1858 Split Second Chronograph
1858 Geosphere
on two separate globes that rotate at 12 and 6 o’clock to represent the northern and southern hemispheres. This pares down the clutter created by the traditional 24-time zone/city ring, and is made possible by the Montblanc MB 29.25 calibre with the same world time discs complication featured in the much more expensive, and much more complicated Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphère Vasco de Gama model. Sharp in icy-blue livery, the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere features a 42mm case also forged in grade-5 titanium, and a “smoky blue” dial with a pseudo-gradient effect. This overall dark blue color scheme provides a striking contrast to the white details awash in Super LumiNova (including the continents in relief) making this one of the coolest watches to experience in the dark. Both the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph and the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere are completed with a choice of new blue Sfumato calf leather straps with white stitching, or with new bi-material technical bracelets with a “grains of rice” vintage design made of titanium and stainless steel. Handcrafted “NATO” straps are also available as an accessory and can be purchased from Montblanc boutiques at Rustan’s Department Stores & Greenbelt 5.
ADVERTORIAL
BLUE MOUNTAIN HIGH
manufacture movement inspired by the original Minerva calibre 17.29 pocket watch movement developed in the 1930s. It features horizontal coupling, a power reserve of 50 hours, and a complex rattrapante, or split second complication developed by Montblanc. This gives the 1858 Split Second Chronograph instant historical credentials that will appeal to connoisseurs who understand that, once upon a time, it wasn’t a G-Shock, Garmin, or Suunto that one would take up to the Himalayas, but a highly engineered and sophisticated timepiece such as this one. Next up is the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere, a world timer dedicated to the world’s Seven Summit mountaineering challenge, the holy grail of mountaineering wherein the challenge is to ascend the highest peaks on every continent. Which is why every continent is presented
January-March 2021
Contents Cover Watch
C OV E R WAT C H PATEK PHILIPPE
GRAND SONNERIE REF. 6301P
28
Patek Philippe
Million-euro gong show is a treat for the senses
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
36
TAG Heuer
…and the Monaco have gone down in history
40
Vacheron Constantin Wishes for a better year ahead
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
44
Roger Dubuis
Sets itself to live even larger
48
Bvlgari
An icon revisited
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
52
Panerai
The Luminor Marina releases a special limited edition
56
Hublot
Once again illustrates its “Art of Fusion”
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
60
IWC
The Timezoner makes its appearance in the Le Petit Prince collection.
64
De Bethune
Perfectly pivots on two perfect faces
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
68
Oris
The third iteration of the Carl Brashear
72
Seiko
Brings the beauty of Japan out to the fore
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
76
MB&F
A splash of color on a FlyingT
80
Zenith
Takes the “Striking 10th” concept and runs with it
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January-March 2021
Contents Features
84
H. Moser & Cie.
Orchestrates a dazzling ballet
88
Urwerk
The T-Rex makes a grand entrance
92
Bremont
Remembers “The Few”
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Parallel Passion
DESIRABLE DIVERSION
A well-tied tie is the first serious step in life. - Oscar Wilde
January-March 2021
Contents Regulars
02
Minutes
Carl S. Cunanan
18
Tempus Incognitum JP C. Calimbas
20
Back to Basics
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
22
Vintage Explorer Jose Martin V. Ursúa
24
The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World
96
Timeframe
Pictures in time as we travel the world
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JEWELRY:
Ardor for adornment
Jewelry is a way of keeping memories alive -Lily Collins
Editor-In-Chief
Carl S. Cunanan Joseph Peter C. Calimbas
Executive Editor Senior Editor
Hernan C. Mapua Jason S. Ang
Collections Editor
Kit O. Payumo
Associate Editor
Alberto E. Casal
Senior Staff Writer Multimedia Editor
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita
Design Director
Charie L. Biaden
Senior Designer
Mark David A. See
Junior Designer
Mary Ann E. Marcelo
Designer
Pamela Karla S. Biado
Contributing Writers
Katherine S. Cunanan, Jose Martin V. Ursúa, Leonard Vincent L. Ho, Edrich Santos & Dominique O. Cerqueda
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. 14th floor , 88 Corporate Center, 141 Valero corner Sedeño St.,
Contributing Photographer
Salcedo Village, Makati City 1227 Philippines
Keith Sundiang
Tel: (+632) 7728.3720 to 21 Fax: (+632) 8844.2599 URL: www.calibremagazine.com
Vice President for Advertising Sales
Mayette L. Asis Advertising Manager
Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc. #5 Everite St., Calumpang, Marikina City
Leslie G. Maxilom
Advertising Traffic Manager
Tel: (+632) 7945-5089
Mary Jane O. Salazar
Publisher
C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc. Managing Director
Copyright © 2021
Carl S. Cunanan
The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties,
Carl S. Cunanan, Kevin C. Limjoco,
guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or
Michael L. Lhuiller & Paolo M. Puyat-Martel
services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced,
Directors
Senior Accountant
Merline B. Urdas
Credit and Collection Officer Accounting Assistant Executive Secretary Legal Counsel
in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.
Sherwin M. Miñon
Circulation Manager
Mary Ann M. Benito
FOLLOW AND VISIT OUR PAGES!
Susana D. Cutamora Elsie A. Teofilo
Paredes Garcia & Golez Law Office
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Calibre 131
Tempus Incognitum January-March 2021
Q: What’s on your mind? Me:
S
o, here we are at the tail end of the year’s first quarter and we have our first issue out. In the “old” normal, this would have been our third issue and the one wherein the first batch of the new year’s novelties are featured in detail. Given what has gone down the past 12 months, it amazes me that we are still operating with a semblance of normalcy albeit at a reduced capacity. Moreover, I am happy to state that the entire team has remained in good health. With the vaccine now available in country and rollout expected soon, many of my compatriots cannot wait to pick up from where their lives figuratively stopped when the world went into an unprecedented lockdown. Usually, when faced with someone with this mindset, I just nod and smile in symbolic agreement. How I wish I could lay down the reality of the situation but I do not want to put a damper on their already bogged-down spirit. I think it’s pretty much the same with every sector of society. From manufacturing and retail to entertainment and sports, everyone seems to just roll with
the punches. Some are doing better than others but at the end of the day, everyone is just keeping their heads above water. Take the watch industry for example. According to a report from Swiss Watch Industry Federation, exports in 2020 were down a whopping 81% compared to 2019. Some brands are able to ride out the pandemic thanks to excellent management and the ability to adapt to the current economic conditions while there are those that had to switch off the lights at headquarters and hope to be able to turn them on again at some point in time. I won’t mention specific brand names but I’m pretty sure you know which is which at this time. Interesting fact though is the watch segment hardest hit are the lower to middle tier brands as demand for watches that are purchased for the daily commute became almost non-existent given that most people in every corner of the world enjoyed extended vacations and adapting to work from home and virtual classroom scenarios. High end watches on the other hand enjoyed normal to briskier than usual sales as their target market suddenly had money to spend given the almost nil ability to travel further than your local grocery
JP C. Calimbas Executive editor
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store for most of us (we could’ve bypassed the lockdown restriction had we been able to avail of a media exemption but still, there was nowhere to go for at the height of quarantine). But even the big brands still had to execute some fancy footwork to keep the company ticking. Looking ahead, 2021 should be less bleak than the Vanta-black shroud that enveloped 2020. I believe that we would not be back to life as we know it nor would it return to such but I expect to see more color this year. Watch dial colors, car launch edition colors and heck, even mobile phone colors. More importantly, we should see life in living color again.
Calibre 131
Back to Basics January-March 2021
More Than Just Buying
The Other Side of Watch Collecting
I
’ve been a watch collector for a while now. Like most people my age, I started out with Swatch many years ago. As a child, I loved dearly each one that I was given, and wore them until they could no longer be worn. Regardless of what I did, I had a watch on my wrist and for me that was the coolest thing that any kid could have. After several years and a handful of broken watches, I eventually grew tired of collecting. It took me several decades to rediscover this love for timepieces, and it was only very recently that I actually took the time and effort to reflect on why I stopped collecting watches in the first place so long ago. I realized that I started to subconsciously distance myself from watches when my favorite ones literally disintegrated on me as was the nature of any plastic Swatch. No matter how nice they were, these weren’t premium watches that were built to last forever. Decades after my experience of having a collection of disposable watches has taught me the importance of another facet of watch collecting: taking care of
your watches. During this day and age of community quarantines, our wants during the yesteryears of plenty have already faded away as we now focus on our needs during these difficult times. In the same vein, buying a new watch right now just isn’t a priority for a lot of people especially with our fragile economy. What has become more evident to me during this time is how underrated yet vitally important the flipside of watch collecting really is. It’s been more than a year since I bought anything new, yet during this same period I had to bring in for servicing and repairs 4 of my personal watches. One of my automatic chronographs suddenly decided to function like a manual wind watch, and just didn't work if you didn't wind it up properly. The second one was a vintage chronograph that needed to have one of its hands fixed because its paint was already peeling off. The last 2 watches I had repaired were simple 3-hand timepieces that just didn’t function at all and were long overdue for a service. One of the few things I appreciated with this pandemic was how I was initially forced to ‘bond’ with each of my watches. Since working from home became the
Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Multimedia Editor
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norm for me, introducing some variety to each day was a conscious effort on my end. Usually it came down to changing my shirt, or more often than not, a change in watch/es. Because of this, my usual rotation of watches expanded to include practically my entire collection. Even some watches that I hadn’t worn in years finally found the light of day. And yes — this newfound appreciation for my old timepieces led to me discovering the simple fact that they were already in need of some tender loving care. Collecting watches is so much more than just the act of buying it. Cherishing it, taking care of it, and having it repaired/ serviced are all integral parts of this fascinating hobby.
Calibre 131
Vintage Explorer January-March 2021
The Remaster
F
ive months after Rolex announced its 41mm Submariner, Omega enflamed the winter doldrums of watch news by unveiling the latest version of that other legendary tool watch, the Speedmaster Professional. I have written an inordinate number of words about the Speedmaster and its history, as well as the trickiness of either reissuing or updating a classic. The debut of this 2021 Speedmaster and its Cal. 3861 movement represents the most comprehensive revision of the Moon Watch since 1997, while the basic design has been essentially unchanged since 1964. It is often compared with the Porsche 911, which bowed in that same year: It is an icon with one foot permanently in the past, and great care must be taken to keep it relevant to modern tastes while not alienating vintage purists. But even the most thoughtfully conceived and competently executed watches will be picked apart by know-it-all critics who have no idea the pressures that Omega’s designers are under. So let’s begin the criticism! I will preface my comments by saying that Omega has made a sensibly conservative effort at evolving the Speedmaster’s core design. The many improvements to the movement are welcome: We should expect higher accuracy, reliability, anti-magnetic resistance, and a prettier finish. All in all,
a more sophisticated caliber as befits the Moon Watch’s ever-rising asking price. It is the tweaks to the visuals where I take issue. If the original Planet Ocean was a Greatest Hits collection of historical Omega diver influences, then the Cal. 3861 Speedmaster appears to be a random assembly of vintage minutiae that was chosen by a committee. Whereas past evolutions were made to improve the watch’s legibility and day-to-day practicality, the 2021 changes collectively show no clear indication as to where Omega intends to take the Speedmaster. Let’s examine a few “upgrades” that confuse: Is the reintroduction of a metal chronograph brake an admission that using the Delrin (nylon) part was a 50-year mistake? Or is appearance now a higher priority than reliability? Similarly, what has motivated the regression to a stepped dial, fishtail sweep, and applied logo? These are most likely retro nods to forge a closer link to the watches of Neil and Buzz—honestly unobjectionable, but chosen haphazardly. My biggest problem is with the Dot Over Ninety bezel insert, and how Omega’s publicity materials highlight it as a key feature of the new model. This is not a pre-’64 Winchester action or a Mezger engine—there is zero functional benefit to the DON bezel. It is a pandering dog whistle to perk the ears of enthusiasts, who can say, “I know what that is!” or, “I need to know what that is, so I can add it to
Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer
22 www.calibremagazine.com
my watch patter.” It is fan service on the level of giving Chewbacca a medal in that awful Episode 9, and it raises alarm bells that marketing may be driving the brand at the expense of engineering. It brings to mind BMW and its truly baffling social media efforts in 2020, though Omega has thankfully not yet intentionally antagonized vintage collectors on Instagram. Is this an overblown reaction to what is overall a good update? Yes, definitely. The Speedmaster Professional remains an excellent watch for any enthusiast, though the tension between past and future is greater than it has ever been since 1957. Personally, I would like to see a model for Moon Watch Originalists that is a 1:1 copy of the Apollo 11 Speedmaster, and is sold in parallel with the Professional. Perhaps the solution is increased customization options (within reason) beyond casebacks and crystals. Just as you can still order many sports cars with either manual or automated transmissions, maybe Omega could offer a menu of options (e.g. handsets, dials, bracelets, even movements) for the Professional? Who wouldn’t pay a massive premium for a Cal. 321 in a “Speedmaster GT3”?
Parallel Passion
DESIRABLE DIVERSION
Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self, and helps define me as a man to whom details matter. - Gay Talese, auThor
January-March 2021
The Wind-Up
Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world
©Rolex/©National Geographic/Getty Images
MISSION BLUE
Rolex is on a Perpetual mission to protect our oceans
Sylvia Earle's Mission Blue Created Its First Hope
©Rolex/©David Doubilet
“A
t Rolex, the word ‘Perpetual’ is more than a word on a dial. It encompasses the vision and values of Hans Wilsdorf (Rolex's founder) to always seek to achieve excellence, to break boundaries and help build a better world. By helping to create a sustainable planet — a Perpetual Planet — Rolex is continuing Hans Wilsdorf’s legacy.” And Rolex is doing this by aligning themselves with key individuals and organizations also striving to protect our planet. These include the Rolex Awards for Enterprise, National Geographic, and Mission Blue, an organization committed to saving our oceans led by legendary marine explorer and Rolex Testimonee Dr. Sylvia Earle. Indeed, our oceans cover nearly threequarters of the Earth’s surface and are home to most of the world’s biodiversity. Many species of marine life, however, are in danger of over fishing; at least half of the world’s coral reefs have disappeared or experienced serious decline; and hundreds of coastal “dead zones” have developed. Earle’s mission is to turn this around and protect 30% of our oceans by the year 2030, and she’s doing this by creating a global network of Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) called “Hope Spots.” These ecologically important areas have been carefully assessed by the marine scientists and policy experts that comprise the Hope Spot Council, and have been deemed vital to the preservation of a species, or a community that relies on a healthy marine environment to survive. Once approved, Dr. Earle and her team bring the “spot” to the global stage
Leading Oceanographer and Rolex Testimonee Sylvia Earle
and raise awareness on the particular issues involved. Indeed, Hope Spots can be established in areas where no formal protection exists or in MPAs where more action is needed. With the ultimate goal, of course, to have it legally enforced. To date, 132 Hope Spots have been established around the world, with 21 created in 2019 alone. Mission Blue now works directly with communities in more than 69 countries to restore and protect their unique ocean environments as it implements campaigns through documentaries, social media, and traditional
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media. In fact, Mission Blue has undertaken over 30 expeditions over the past 11 years with scientists, community leaders and donors to gather data and bring awareness through visual content shared on the organization’s digital platform. Rolex has been involved with Dr. Earle since 1970 and is committed to the preservation of our oceans and the lives that depend on them. In fact, Perpetual Planet represents Rolex’s aim to “give back” to the world by recognizing its part in improving conditions on the planet, with the goal, of course, to make it “Perpetual.”
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©Rolex/©Kip Evans
Divers on Tektite II in the US Virgin Islands glide towards a sea whip after studying coral
The Wind-Up
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U-BOAT
THE PERFECT CONTRAST This latest pro-diver watch is expressed in its most acclaimed version.
I
talo Fontana’s passion for scuba diving is inherent in his Sommerso collection. His designs stem from his creative mind that never stops ticking. His attention to details, his overflowing passion, and his undying dedication to innovation and perfection have fuelled the brand these past decades. The “trademark” large crown on the left side of the case not only identifies the watch as a U-BOAT, but also conveys a sense of reliability and power. Experimentation and innovation are at the heart of Italo Fontana’s creation, together with his use of materials for the timepieces. He is known to use different metals, from steel to titanium, from tungsten to carbon, and from gold to silver. Mid last year, U-BOAT presented their latest pro-diver’s watch, the Sommerso Bronzo. It was a watch that paid tribute to Italo Fontana’s love for diving with a very classic and vintage feel. It had a 46 mm bronze case that will create a unique patina over time. This year, U-BOAT releases another Sommerso Bronzo with an updated feature: a ceramic bezel. The Sommerso Bronzo Ceramic Bezel has, yes, a ceramic bezel. Ceramics is widely used in the aerospace industry because of its high resistance to heat and its durability. Plus, it holds its color even if it has been subjected to long exposures to ultraviolet rays. U-BOAT is known for mixing and matching materials to create a watch, even if they possess opposite characteristics. This is all part of Italo Fontana’s creative process. He is continually fascinated by contrasts, especially if the material has never been used by anyone in the watchmaking industry. With the Sommerso Bronzo Ceramic Bezel, the bronze case (which will form a patina in time) and the ceramic bezel (which will hold its
color over time) create the perfect contrast. The watch features the iconic U-BOAT crown with its patented protection device, as well as a plaque engraved with the serial number. The black dial features a 24-hour counter at 4 o’clock and a date window placed at 9 o’clock. Inside the 46 mm bronze case is a Swiss automatic mechanical movement, customised to U-BOAT specifications. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power
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reserve of 44 hours. The case back has been subjected to a special anti-corrosion treatment and is screwed down, giving this watch a 300-meter water resistance rating. Attached to the lugs is a hand-made, handfinished calf leather strap in dark brown. The Sommerso Bronze Ceramic Bezel is a watch with iconic lines fit for professional diving as well as for any other occasion. It exudes a vintage look with the strength and durability of ceramic.
C OV E R WAT C H PATEK PHILIPPE
GRAND SONNERIE REF. 6301P
THE BELLS OF CALATRAVA
Patek Philippe's million-euro gong show is a treat for the senses. Wo rds by
JOSE MARTIN V. URSÚA
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C OV E R WAT C H PATEK PHILIPPE
GRAND SONNERIE REF. 6301P
P
atek Philippe’s latest masterpiece brings to mind the apocryphal tale of Alexander the Great weeping, for he saw that he had no more worlds to conquer. In the rarefied field of haute horlogerie, it can be a struggle to distinguish one’s newest output from both past efforts and the competitions. On its 175th anniversary in 2014, Patek Philippe revealed its Grandmaster Chime (Ref. 5175R), which remains the most complex wristwatch that the Genevan company has ever produced. Boasting twenty complications displayed between two dials, its movement is a veritable Gordian knot of brass, precious metals, and rubies. Just as Alexander’s empire was divided among his four generals, the models that followed the Grandmaster Chime have tackled subsets of its complications, while
introducing innovations of their own. The focus of this new model (Ref. 6301P) is in its functionally descriptive name: “Grande et Petite Sonnerie, Répétition Minutes, Petite Seconde Sautante,” which is shortened to “Grande Sonnerie.” In other words, the key features of this model are its multi-purpose chimes and its dead-second complication. Announced near the end of the annus horribilis that was 2020, the Grande Sonnerie sings a happy tune to the watch world, and offers hard proof of Patek Philippe’s continued mastery over multiple senses. The map that reveals the Grande Sonnerie’s secrets is on its simple and understated face. The dial is deep black, rendered in grand feu enamel, and marked with white print and applied white gold Breguet numerals. Words are used sparingly — there are only six, with each hinting at the mechanisms that lurk beneath. The first three read “Patek Philippe Geneve” in the characteristically simple Monotype Grotesque
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typeface. There is no model name, no date of founding, and certainly no laundry list of certifications. At the 3 and 9 o’clock positions are two semicircles, with “Mouvement” and “Sonnerie” inscribed within them. These are the power reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework, respectively. Lastly, a small “Email” beneath the running-seconds counter is sure to be the subject of fun for laymen. “Email” is Swiss/French for “enamel,” but Patek Philippe may be tilting at windmills by expecting the public to accept this definition of the word. Sprouting from the canon pinion are two traditionally leaf-shaped, white-gold hands where we find, surprisingly, the most controversial feature of this watch: Luminescent material, which, on a minute repeater, some portions of the watch world would liken to wearing a belt with suspenders. The argument is that a minute repeater exists so that one may tell time in the dark, without the need for any light. Adding lume is the tiniest sop to practicality — after all, there may be circumstances when you would want to tell the time in pitch darkness without making a sound. Perhaps you’re on an exceptionally luxurious commando raid and wish to refrain from delighting nearby guards with the trill of bells. In any case, a bit of lume on the hands (and next to the numerals on the minute track) would hardly seem to be a deal-breaker for anyone in the Grande Sonnerie’s target market. But if you are one of those lucky few, be aware of the potential backlash from minute repeater purists on Internet forums. Beyond the six found on the dial, there are two more important words on the mid-case. Viewing the watch head-on, you might not immediately notice that there is a notched wedge protruding from the space between the bottom lugs. Roll your wrist and you will see that it is, in fact, a three-position sliding switch engraved with “PETITE” and “SILENCE.” Here is where a brief refresher on repeater terminology may be helpful: The first switch position enables “Petite Sonnerie,” which means that hours are sounded every hour, and only quarters are sounded every quarter. “Silence” is self-explanatory, and deactivates the strike train. Lastly, the middle position is the watch’s raison d’être and default setting: “Grande Sonnerie” will chime the hours, as well as the quarters, every fifteen minutes. There are two more functions of this timepiece that are similarly unlabeled yet crucial. We can
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C OV E R WAT C H find them by parsing the model’s full name: “Répétition Minutes” (Minute Repeater) is activated by pressing the button in the center of the winding crown. This will sound the hours, quarters, and minutes on demand. Rather than read a hundred words describing the exceedingly pleasant tones of the chimes, you would be better served by going to Patek Philippe’s website to actually listen to them. (Search for “6301P Complete Film”) The final complication is “Petite Seconde Sautante” a.k.a. “Seconde Morte” or “Jumping Seconds.” If you are still watching that video on the website, you may notice that the running-seconds hand ticks just once per second, ironically much like any cheap quartz watch. The elimination of the second hand’s smooth sweep may be derided by the casual watch spotter (who is probably
PATEK PHILIPPE
GRAND SONNERIE REF. 6301P
still snickering over “Email”), but it is further evidence of Patek Philippe’s technical skills. Be mindful of the Gospel of Matthew, and do not cast pearls before swine! Sliding switch aside, the Grande Sonnerie’s case is traditionally styled, and exquisitely finished. In stark contrast to its outré ancestor the Grandmaster Chime (dubbed the “Grandmaster Flash” by some critics due to its filigreed and ornate appearance), this platinum body is an exercise in restraint. The round mid-case, bezel and lugs are polished, while its flanks are brushed. There are additional details that are
not immediately obvious, such as the concave profile of the bezel, and the indentation of those brushed flanks. It is a big watch at 44.8mm, though this is not unreasonable given the wealth of complications within. Furthermore, the case stands at a relatively slim 12mm, enhancing its wearability. Patek Philippe customarily sets a diamond at the bottom of its platinum cases; here, it has been moved to the space between the upper lugs to make room for that all-important switch. The simple crown is multi-directional, with clockwise winding the movement, and counterclockwise charging the power-hungry strikework. Finally, a simple black alligator strap and platinum deployant affix this watch to one very discerning wrist. Flipping over the Grande Sonnerie reveals its exquisite heart, the manual-wind Caliber
“SEEING AND HEARING THE STRIKE TRAIN AT WORK IS IMMENSELY SATISFYING AND THE HEADLINE ATTRACTION OF THE GRANDE SONNERIE.”
C OV E R WAT C H PATEK PHILIPPE
GRAND SONNERIE REF. 6301P
GS 36-750 PS IRM. We have covered its many functions, and keeping the escapement ticking (at 7 beats per second) and the bells ringing takes a lot of energy. Fully winding the crown in both directions will provide 72 hours of power for the movement, and 24 hours for the strikework in Grande Sonnerie mode. This Caliber has 703 parts and 95 jewels, though most of them are hidden away from view through the sapphire caseback. Half of the vista is dominated by silver-coated plates finished in Côtes de Genève striping, engraved with gold-filled text. On the side that is farther from the crown, we see the balance bridge, the centrifugal governor that regulates the chimes, and another eye-catching bridge in the shape of the Cross of Calatrava. Flanking this cross are what appear to be tiny axeheads. These are the hammers that tap at the medium and low gongs. A third hammer is situated beside the governor, and this taps the high gong to repeat the minutes, or as part of the three-note quarter sound. Seeing and hearing the strike train at work is immensely satisfying and the headline attraction of the Grande Sonnerie. Do note that this watch also comes with a solid platinum caseback, which almost certainly will never be used. Now that we are familiar with the Grande Sonnerie’s technical marvels and subtle beauty, we are left with the mundane discussion of price. As the old joke goes, “If you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it,” but Patek Philippe will cheerfully provide the price upon request. Despite what some may believe about the ultra-wealthy, one’s spending power does not shoot into infinity after the first few million is earned. Sources have reported that the Grande Sonnerie can be had for the princely sum of 1.15 million Swiss Francs. If you are preoccupied with getting the most number of complications for your money, then this is sadly less value than you would get from, say, the Grand Complications Ref. 6300G (the production version of the Grandmaster Chime), which offers 20 complications at a price of CHF 2.5 million. On the other hand, the Grande Sonnerie is a far more livable piece of haute horlogerie, and a more likely candidate for daily wear by members of the million-dollar wrist club. After all, there is a reason why the sound of money is heard by many as “ching-ching-ching.”
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Features January-March 2021
Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.
MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT page 76
Feature TAG Heuer
RACING PULSE Steve McQueen’s last known Heuer Monaco has just become the most expensive Heuer wristwatch ever sold Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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January-March 2021
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Feature TAG Heuer
FOR THOSE SHOCKINGLY NOT IN THE KNOW,
at the Phillips RACING PULSE auction last December 12, 2020 in New York City officially making it the most expensive Heuer wristwatch ever sold, bringing in more than ten times its estimate, and more than doubling the previous record for a Heuer watch. And it wasn’t just any Heuer Monaco, but one of the actual watches Steve McQueen wore during the filming of Le Mans. To think, the watch wasn’t even in the care of McQueen’s estate all these years, but with the actor’s personal mechanic. That’s right, billed as “one of the world’s most important Heuer wristwatches” ever made, this particular Heuer Monaco 1133B is one of the six watches used during filming, and one of only two that Steve McQueen kept after the film wrapped,
THE TAG HEUER MONACO IS QUITE POSSIBLY THE LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS-BASED WATCHMAKER’S MOST RECOGNIZABLE TIMEPIECE THANKS TO ITS DISTINCT SHAPE AND DESIGN. Truth be told it may even be more iconic than the brand’s other massively iconic watch, the TAG Heuer Carrera, and it’s not just because of how it looks, but also because of who wore it. A pop culture icon as much as a horological one, the TAG Heuer Monaco became instantly famous when American actor Steve McQueen wore the watch in his 1970 film “Le Mans.” Thus, it’s become known as “Steve McQueen’s watch.” Well, the last known “Steve McQueen’s watch” has just sold for a record-breaking $2,208,000
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January-March 2021
but it didn’t stay with him for long. The Hollywood legend gave it to the film’s chief mechanic, as well as his own personal mechanic, Haig Alltounian after the final day of filming. Alltounian remembers that day very well, and as recounted by him in the documentary Steve McQueen: The Man & Le Mans, the Hollywood legend came up to him and said, “Thank you for keeping me alive all these months,” before handing the watch to Alltounian. And being chief mechanic on a movie about a 24-hour race, Haig Alltounian was arguably the most important member of the behind-the-scenes crew. But being a guy who was just, “doing his job,” Alltounian originally turned down the Heuer Monaco. McQueen reportedly wouldn’t take “no” for an answer. By all accounts, the actor was truly grateful to Alltounian and insisted he take it, going as far as to inscribe the dedication “TO
HAIG Le MANS 1970,” on the back of the watch. So, it was Alltounian who consigned the watch for the Phillips RACING PULSE auction. “Its provenance is bulletproof,” says Paul Boutros, Head of Americas for Phillips Watches, and Senior Vice President. “It’s a very attractive watch in a very famous movie, and its very visible in the film.” And he’s not wrong! So, who cares if the movie didn’t do particularly well when it came out in 1971? Over the years, the movie and the watch featured in it have become pop culture icons, and to say that both are now standards of COOL is an understatement. No wonder then that this ultra-rare watch smashed the all-time auction record for Heuer watches! Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, shared “Steve McQueen and his Heuer Monaco not only became one of the most recognized and celebrated timepieces of the last century, but it forever shaped the
culture of TAG Heuer.We have been humbled by the excitement within the watch community leading up to the auction, and this record result is a testament to the historic importance and continued legacy of this Heuer timepiece.” According to reports, the Heuer Monaco was originally listed as “estimate on request,” meaning the pre-sale estimate wasn’t published and prospective buyers had to contact the Phillips specialist department for further information. Well, that didn’t stop the mad scramble from ensuing. With an opening bid of $200,000 the bidding slowly climbed to $400,000 and only went north from there. Soon a 7-minute bidding war among a trio of on-line buyers ensued. And after that, watch enthusiasts from around the world following this historic moment online and over the phone saw the hammer finally drop to an online bidder for $1,800,000 before buyer’s premium, marking a new record price for a Heuer at auction, and becoming the most expensive Heuer wristwatch ever sold. “It was a tremendous honor to have been entrusted with the sale of this Heuer Monaco on behalf of Mr. Alltounian,” Paul Boutros continued. “Having generated tremendous interest from collectors and enthusiasts around the world, we are thrilled with this world record result. This historic timepiece will always be associated with the glamour and thrill of auto racing, and it can certainly be considered one of the most important Heuer wristwatches of all time.” To think it wasn’t even the most expensive watch sold last December 12. That honor goes to another legendary actor/race car driver’s other watch. But that’s another story for another time.
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Feature
Vacheron Constantin
LIVE LONG AND PROSPER Vacheron Constantin offers peace and prosperity with its latest Traditionnelle Tourbillon
Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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January-March 2021
Feature
Vacheron Constantin
THE QILIN (PRONOUNCED “CHEE-LIHN”) IS A MYTHICAL CHIMERA-LIKE CREATURE THAT BELONGS TO THE PANTHEON OF FIGURES POPULATING CHINESE AND EAST ASIAN MYTHOLOGY. In Chinese tradition, the Qilin is said to be both male (Qi) and female (Lin), and is often depicted to have Chinese dragon-like features particularly their heads. Indeed, the creatures are often depicted with thick flame-like eyelashes, manes and beards that flow upward just like a Chinese dragon. Its body, on the other hand, is often fully scaled (which represents affluence) and is shaped like the body of a deer, or horse (which stands for power) with the tail of an ox (which stands for devotion). They are always shown with cloven hooves, and in modern times have often been depicted with a single horn-like antler, which has often related to the concept of unicorns. The Qilin is said to herald the imminent arrival or passing of a great sage or illustrious ruler, and its appearance is said to symbolize luck and prosperity. Most if not all descriptions paint the Qilin as a generally peaceful creature that is so generous and compassionate that it steps so lightly so as not to even bend the grass it steps
on, preferring instead to travel on clouds or walk on water. For 2021, Vacheron Constantin gives an optimistic send off to the previous year by empowering two fantastical Qilin to enhance the 18-piece numbered limited edition of the latest Traditionnelle Tourbillon, a timepiece often found at the confluence of aesthetic creativity and high mechanical complication. And after the year that was 2020, the world will need all the optimism it can get. Borne of a collection distinguished by its avant-garde technical repertoire, and served by the eminently classical codes inherited from
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18th century Geneva Haute Horlogerie, the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon (Under the Favourable Auspices of the Qilin) is the latest timepiece to benefit from the expertise of Vacheron Constantin’s artistic crafts and its most talented artisans. This has resulted in a masterful rendering of the road of time staged under the benevolent gaze of two Qilin. Genuine pieces of miniature sculpture, the fabled Qilin were created using the ramolayé pounced ornament technique, a skillful blend of softness and strength that reveals the almost infinite world of details from a gold surface no more than 0.4mm thick. This irreversible work is
a delicate and painstaking process that involves pushing back the material by cutting into, scraping or softening it in order to give volume to a two-dimensional drawing. Thus, in the hands of the expert artisans of the Maison, the coat and scaly skin of the two Qilin are revealed in a strikingly realistic manner, with the male’s (Qi) hooves on a globe, a symbol of authority and prosperity; and the female’s (Lin) on an ingot, a harbinger of good fortune. And because the benevolence of the Qilin is said to know no bounds, the talented engravers chose to depict the two mythological creatures sitting on a bed of lucky clouds, a traditional motif adorning ancient Asian artifacts. Thus, the rhythmically punctuated raised and hollowed areas, flat and curved surfaces, and matte and polished finishes of the two hand-engraved 22K 5N pink gold Qilin, appear on a gold dial with a hand-guillochéd traditional wave pattern finished with a black galvanic treatment. Indeed, this contrast on colors and attention to detail only add to the allure of this Traditionnelle Tourbillon. Especially when enhanced ornamentally by the rest of the 42mm diameter and 12.22mm thick 18K 5N pink gold case, the surfaces of which have also been lovingly engraved in the fine line engraving technique of the lucky-charm cloud motif adorning almost 100% of the slim bezel, the stepped sides of the case, and the curved lugs. These engravings are further emphasized by a fluted caseback, which further enhances the aesthetic appeal of the whole proceedings. And since a timepiece as stunning as the Traditionnelle Tourbillon (Under the Favourable Auspices of the Qilin) deserves a caseback of equal measure, the show continues with the meticulous finishing of the manual-winding Calibre 2260 mechanical movement, one of the most sophisticated movements in Haute Horlogerie specifically chosen by Vacheron Constantin to bring this mythological tableau to life. Developed and produced entirely in-house, the 231-part movement is endowed with 31 jewels and oscillates at a very traditional 18,000 vibrations/hour (or 2.5Hz). Further, it is adorned with a “Côtes de Genève” motif as seen through the exhibition case-back and enhanced by a complication often considered to be one of the most sophisticated mechanisms in the realm of Haute Horlogerie: the tourbillon, which on this Traditionnelle Tourbillon is found under the watchful eyes of the Qilin at its traditional space at 6 o’clock. And like other tourbillons enhancing other Vacheron Constantin movements, this
escapement features an openworked mobile carriage shaped like a Maltese cross, topped by an entirely hand-chamfered bar. And that’s not all, the tourbillon’s ingenious construction conceals two sets of series-coupled barrels measuring a total 2.20 meters in length, thus endowing the movement with a staggering 336-hour, or 14-day power reserve, the indication of which is engineered right above the hands on the dial, and along the same axis as the tourbillon for the sake of balance and harmony. Unsurprisingly, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon (Under the Favourable Auspices of the Qilin) is a Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece, which, as previously mentioned is a very limited edition of only 18 pieces. And to add to the relevance of the piece, this Traditionnelle Tourbillon is matched with a black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, which within the context of the Qilin is doubly relevant as the large, squared scales of the alligator leather strap once again makes reference to the creature borne out of legend and mythical folklore.
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Feature
Roger Dubuis
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January-March 2021
ORACLE
Roger Dubuis predicts the future of Hyper Horlogerie Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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INDEED, THE WATCHMAKER FROM GENEVA IS PROBABLY THE MOST EXCESSIVE AND EXTRAVAGANT WATCHMAKER IN SWISS WATCHMAKING, CONSISTENTLY GOING AGAINST THE MAINSTREAM STANDARDS OF THE INDUSTRY WITH THE VERVE AKIN TO A RAGING BULL. And powering its way through the industry with a determination not seen since the invention of the wheel, this “serial innovator” has been obsessed with taking Haute Horlogerie to the next level… and then to several levels after that. Even the Poinçon de Genève, that exclusive seal of quality that certifies the decoration and hand finishing of movements made in the Canton of Geneva, is merely used as a “jumping-off point” by the brand and uses the exclusive Geneva Seal as its base, the “foundation” if you will from which to build their vision of “Hyper Horlogerie.” Indeed, the brand that dares to be different is known to put technique at the service of aesthetics, resulting in timepieces known throughout the industry as extensions of Roger Dubuis’ own mindset, a “duality” that allows the unfettered exploration of new “territories.”
Powered by the obsessive quest for freedom, pleasure, and hedonism, Roger Dubuis does what it wants and produces timepieces that are big, brash, unquestionably expensive, and unapologetically self-indulgent (albeit in the best possible way), all while respecting the tenets of traditional horlogerie. The Excalibur Double Tourbillon is one of those timepieces, which for the past 15 years has been Roger Dubuis’ apex predator that has pushed its way beyond the boundaries of convention. Eye catching like nothing else with its striking and aggressive lines, and twin tourbillons enhanced by the Roger Dubuis star, the Excalibur Double Tourbillon has been the watchmaker’s GOAT, which it has parlayed to prominence for the past decade. Yet despite its numerous benchmarks, the Excalibur was still a fifteen-year-old model that the watchmaker felt was due for a nice little “update.” But as we’ve repeatedly said, why fix what isn’t broke? The Excalibur may be many things but broken its not. Which is why, in yet another example of evolution not revolution, Roger Dubuis has given the Excalibur Skeleton
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Double Tourbillon a “mild” facelift, which for 2021 flaunts a refreshed aesthetic with a range of technical enhancements. And since (at least as far as Roger Dubuis is concerned) the skeleton structure concept still has a ways to go, the watchmaker opted for a more “gentle” approach with its modifications, just like how Roger Dubuis’ automotive partner Lamborghini upgraded the Aventador to the Aventador ‘S’. Thus, the upgraded RD108SQ calibre of the Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon was initially tweaked aesthetically with cleanercut lines and re-polished angles. After all, if the movement looks this good, why not show it off? This had the benefit of transforming the caliber with, not only a thinner look and feel, but also an even sharper and more technical appearance, which is most evident in how light plays off the newly shaped and polished edges, an enhancement implemented on every component. This heightened the sense transparency and depth of the movement, a quality once again boldly highlighted by the iconic Roger Dubuis star, which in its new role has been released from its functional role within
January-March 2021
the movement base. The star-shaped bridge now floats above the barrel and is lodged between the flange and the movement plate, crossing over other bridges placed at different levels, and further enhancing the 3D effect. Speaking of the barrel, its power reserve has been generously enhanced to 72 hours, which the watchmakers succeeded in doing by massively reducing the weight of the double tourbillons. This is where the modifications got serious. By replacing the material of the lower cages with titanium, which is twice as light as stainless steel, and upper cages with mirror-polished cobalt chrome, the watchmakers succeeded in drastically reducing their weight, with the added benefit of both materials being anti-magnetic. All this shaving and replacing translated to a slimmer case, down from 15mm to 13mm, which is most apparent when viewing the watch in profile. Even the shape of the case has been altered and is now longer, and smoother with more sophisticated lines, while still maintaining its 100-meter water resistance. None of which tempered the aggressiveness of the still massively imposing 45mm case in the slightest bit, especially with the more aggressively shaped lugs and crown guards, as well as that trademark-fluted bezel. The iconic notches of which are a design signature made deeper and more sculptural than ever before, and also appear on the star itself, the flange, hour-wheels bar, and the crown. Indeed, this “little” exercise in modification has produced an almost entirely new Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon, one made even more technical, and more aggressive with every nip and tuck. Best of all, it speaks to the expertise and virtuosity of Roger Dubuis, an accomplished, integrated manufacture, capable of mastering the most complex processes and materials. Which brings us to another piece of convention subverted by the Geneva-based watchmaker: the sporting life. While not exactly a sport watch by any standard definition (no surprise there), the sophisticated and horribly exclusive Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon is still geared for an active lifestyle. This is evidenced by the 100 meters of water resistance, as well as the strap/ bracelet quick release system, which gives users the option to pick and change from a variety of especially designed straps made from rubber and other water-resistant materials. The very limited Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon is made available in three versions: pink gold, white gold, and in a version with baguettecut diamonds, all three of which are limited editions of only eight pieces each. Welcome to the future of Hyper Horlogerie.
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Feature Bvlgari
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January-March 2021
Alluring Enchantment
The Serpenti Spiga Strikes Again
Words by
KATHERI NE S. CUNANAN
THERE ARE FEW DESIGNS AS ICONIC AS THE BVLGARI SERPENTI.
The sleek snake, an alluring enchantress, enticing and inviting. The Serpenti has been reinvented for 2021, and in a sense, that is the essence of the Serpenti: perpetual renewal. Just as the snake sheds its skin to emerge renewed and reinvigorated, so does the iconic Bvlgari Serpenti. The enduring motif is an icon among the Bvlgari collections, seen in timepieces, jewellery, even as the accent point of a Bvlgari bag. As Bvlgari themselves say, the Serpenti is the ultimate synthesis of jewelry craftsmanship. The evolution of style is evident when looking at how the Serpenti design has been expressed throughout the years. There was the Serpenti Scaglie in 2009 which introduced the wrapped bracelet into the mix. The Serpenti Tubogas in 2010 elevated a simple concept of gas pipes to a sleek art form, easily incorporated to the serpent’s image. And the Serpenti Spiga in 2014 that included the wheat motif in the serpent’s body. The Spiga design can trace its roots to the 1990s, with the modular aspect. “Spiga” actually means “wheat” and the design resembles a stalk of wheat. The 2021 version is a more stylized expression and not an overt recreation. Wheat is often considered a symbol of both fertility and prosperity, and in both the Roman and Greek histories were linked to marriage. Maybe this is an understated nod to the heritage of the house of Bvlgari, having strong roots in both Greek and Roman influences. The inspiration points for the latest Serpenti Spiga pieces are from a 1957 timepiece that had a square face and dial, and the modular bracelet wrapping around the wrist. The modular design technique is often seen in the sleek pieces of Bvlgari High Jewellery. The elegance belies the intricate work that goes into creating them. Each module is well defined and can seamlessly be incorporated into many different designs. The modules are assembled into the final piece one by one, a step critical to the flexibility and integrity of the creation. For 2021, the Roman Jeweller of Time has sought to once again recreate the Serpenti for the modern times. Yes, there is gold and diamonds, of course. But Bvlgari does not rest on its laurels nor merely re-release a previous success. They go beyond the boundaries of the expected and create the amazing. Each piece is a study is refinement and elegance. Let’s take a closer look at the three seductive Serpenti Spiga creations.
The three watches feature brilliant diamonds and either rose gold or white gold. An interesting aspect of the ‘spiga’ part of this collection is the matelassé pattern. Matelassé is a weaving or stitching technique that created a quilted or padded pattern. Traditionally, the stitching technique was done by hand, on a loom, or with a quilting machine. Imagine the hand-stitched quilts lovingly created by French grandmothers in the area of Marseilles, France, only this time expertly created in gold on a wristwatch. As we take a closer look at the intricate workmanship, we can appreciate the details of the creations. Time and effort have gone in to each piece. The single-row bracelet has 40 links, from 40 separate molds. Each piece needs to be delicately designed so it will fit seamlessly into the next piece,
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Feature Bvlgari
“NEW FAVORITES ... SOPHISTICATED, ELEGANT, AND ALLURING ” interlocking safely. The double-row bracelets have 70 separate elements, also carefully engineered to create one sleek serpent. The links all interlock, nothing is soldered together, giving each Serpenti Spiga that flexibility. There are three Serpenti Spiga watch models offered to us this year, and each one is alluring. The Serpenti Spiga 103250 has an 18k rose gold case with a diamond-set bezel. The white mother-of-pearl dial is lustrous and the rubellite crown adds a dainty touch of color. The single-row 18k rose gold bracelet has been partially set with 281 diamonds. The matelassé pattern work is clear in this piece, and the play of gold and diamonds on the bracelet is enchanting. The Serpenti Spiga 103252 also has an 18k rose gold case, but the dial here is black lacquer and thus looks a little more intense. The bezel is still set in diamonds too. The black and rose gold combination seems to be more suited to an evening look, and the two-row 18k rose gold bracelet and 461 diamonds probably make it so. The additional links, for the longer length bracelet, add a little more playfulness to this
watch. The longer bracelet means a little more matelassé and a few more diamonds to admire. The showstopper in this collection is the Serpenti Spiga High-Jewellery 103251. The watch has an 18k white gold case and diamonds, lots of them. This model does not have the matelassé detailing, but it more than makes up for it with the expanse of brilliant diamonds. There are 205 diamonds on the case and bezel, 257 diamonds on the dial, and 425 diamonds on the two-row 18k white gold bracelet. That’s a grand total of 887 diamonds, clocking in at just over 17 carats. Adding an accent to the enchanting bejeweled serpent are the blue sapphire on the crown, and the blue hands and hour markers. The house of Bvlgari has once again shown us why they are as excellent as we all strive to be. They know their strengths — elegance and excellence, and they know how to break barriers and create new favorites for us to yearn for. They take an iconic design and recreate it and bring it to a new level of excellence. My money’s on the white gold Serpenti Spiga — sophisticated, elegant, and alluring.
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Serpenti Spiga 103250
Serpenti Spiga 103252
Serpenti Spiga High-Jewellery 103251
Feature Panerai
BUILT TOUGH.
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January-March 2021
BUILT TO LAST. Panerai celebrates its iconic collection with a precious interpretation. Wo rd s b y
BERT E. CASAL
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Feature Panerai
THE LUMINOR COLLECTION celebrates its 70th anniversary with the Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina (PAM01116). This collection was named after the luminescent substance first patented in the middle of the last century. It has been an enduring signature of the brand ever since. The newest Luminor stands out in the Luminor Marina collection, thanks to the noble metal that gives it its toughness: Platinumtech. This is an alloy that has been reformulated and perfected by the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee. It is harder than conventional platinum with its enhanced physical properties. This precious metal with greater resistance is considerably more difficult to work with and polish. It requires a meticulous and
highly specialised manual polishing process. The 44mm polished Platinumtech case and bezel has a thickness of 13.4mm. The case back is screwed down, finished in brushed Platinumtech. The dial is presented in an olive green color with satiné soleil decoration. The Arabic numerals and indexes are rendered in beige SuperLumiNova™ with green luminescence. The seconds are presented at the 9 o’clock position and the date at 3 o’clock. Attached to the lugs are alligator leather straps in dark brown with ecru stitching and a brushed Platinumtech trapezoidal pin buckle. A second strap is included, at the customer’s request, along with a screwdriver for changing and removing the buckle.
Powering the PAM01116 is the Caliber P.9010, a mechanical automatic movement that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It contains a Glucydur™ balance wheel, Incabloc™ shockproof device, and two barrels to give it a three-day power reserve. The movement was designed and developed entirely by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. It has a rapid adjustment system that can move the hour hand forward or backward in increments of one hour, independent of the minute hand. This special edition is available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and produced in a limited edition of just 70 pieces. The Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina comes with a 70-year warranty.
“On its 70th anniversary, Panerai celebrates its iconic collection with the PAM01116.” 54 www.calibremagazine.com
January-March 2021
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Feature Hublot
THE BIG BANG MAGIC SAPPHIRE SPECTACULAR Hublot once again combines its famous MP-11 with two new manufacture materials Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature Hublot
MAGIC GOLD AND BLUE SAPPHIRE, TWO NEW INNOVATIVE MATERIALS DEVELOPED ENTIRELY WITHIN THE HUBLOT WORKSHOPS. The former is the first ever scratch-resistant 18-carat gold, and is an alloy invented and patented by the watchmaker’s engineers. The result of combining pure gold with boron carbide, Magic Gold is the brand's revolutionary innovation on the precious metal, and is, an extremely hard high-tech ceramic first unveiled in 2011 with a hardness rating of 1,000 Vickers compared to the 400 Vickers of “regular” 18K gold. The latter, on the other hand, is a play on ultra transparency, and a blue one at that. Indeed, with a unique knowledge and the complete mastery of the industrialization process, Hublot has been able to offer sapphire in a wide range of unique and innovative colors, Blue Sapphire is the latest in that range of unique sapphire offerings that include black, red, yellow, orange, and of course, transparent. Indeed, Hublot has always stood out by striving to find the perfect alliance between movement and case. This has already been aptly demonstrated with the Big Bang MP-11 in ultralight 3D carbon, using King Gold alloy paired with a 3D carbon bezel, in transparent sapphire, in high-tech Red Magic ceramic and most recently in green SAXEM, which is a new composite rivaling the most beautiful emeralds in color and matching diamonds in its hardness. But the Big Bang MP-11 story is far from over. Which is why making their world-wide debut at the LVMH Watch Week last January are the Big Bang MP-11 14-day Power Reserve Magic Gold, and the Big Bang MP-11 14-day Power Reserve Blue Sapphire, Hublot’s newest “enthusiast” timepieces to reinterpret the ultratechnical and contemporary Big Bang design with the brand’s patented “Art of Fusion” philosophy, successfully bringing the Big Bang MP-11 story even further along. Bold, aggressive, and luxurious, the exclusive color of the former’s Magic Gold case is contrasted by the six H-shaped black-coated titanium screws, the black and gold color scheme of which is a reminder that, back in 1980, Hublot was the first ever watchmaker to combine these two disparate materials on the same watch. The transparency of the blue tinted sapphire of the latter, on the other hand, plays off the airiness of the skeletonized movement to give the whole proceedings an entirely new dimension. Its extreme hardness required very stringent
machining methods, which was yet another challenge due to the design of the case middle, as well as the bezel that accommodates the shape of the cylindrical barrels (more on that later). Indeed, the blue sapphire takes full advantage of the many angles and chamfers of the case making the Big Bang MP-11 14-day Power Reserve Blue Sapphire much lighter, and less aloof than its Magic Gold sibling. This is indeed Hublot doing what Hublot does best: going bigger, brighter and more bombastic wherever and whenever they can. And by going by way of the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire, with a dash of the iconic MP-05 La Ferrari Sapphire thrown in for good measure, the Hublot powers-that-be are once again showcasing their particular brand of high-tech excess. And in that same Hublot fashion, forget about trying to slide either watch under your cuff, they won’t fit: these are 45mm bad boys that (once again, in typical Hublot fashion) demand to be
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noticed! And that has a lot to do with not just their attention-grabbing dimensions, but also the state-of-the-art fully in-house-made movement that powers them! The HUB9011 Calibre is the same skeletonized stunner that has been making waves in the industry. Comprised of 270 components, the movement boasts a patented index-assembly system, a silicon lever escapement and black platinum bridges. A “time-only” movement, the 12 o’clock subdial is enhanced by the gear train that adds bits of flash to the proceedings. But what truly sets the HUB9011 calibre apart is what is happening at the lower half of the dial: seven mainspring barrels stacked horizontally and end-to-end to provide a whopping 14-day power reserve. This feature is so robust, in fact, that the watchmaker made it a part of the overall design, making it impossible to miss…at any angle! They reside front and center just below the time display and are so unwieldy they necessitated
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another bombastic design feature: a bulging and undulating sapphire crystal. This allows the horizontally stacked barrels to be shoehorned and become part of the dial with a bulge that is 14.4mm at its highest point, and is one of the main reasons either watch will never slide under anyone’s cuff: the bulbous shape of the barrels will never allow it. This paved the way for another benefit: by following the shape of the barrels, the sapphire crystal has created a magnifying effect that further puts a spotlight on the asset. Further, transmitting energy from the horizontally aligned barrel arbor to the vertical gears controlling the hour and minutes meant the use of a system rarely employed in the industry: a 90° helical worm gear, which can be seen at 10 o’clock on the dial. While for balance and symmetry, an anthracite ruthenium-made balance wheel can be found at its symmetrical opposite, at 2 o’clock. Both watches are wound manually using the large fluted crown with worm screw type relief
that echoes the helical gear, or an electric Torx stylus inspired by the world of motor racing. And did we mention that both the Big Bang MP-11 14-day Power Reserve Magic Gold, and the Big Bang MP-11 14-day Power Reserve Blue Sapphire are limited editions of only 50 pieces, each? Both watches are paired with the brand’s signature integrated rubber, which feature a diagonal striped pattern for added texture. As mentioned above, the Magic Gold version gets a simple black strap that echoes the black accents of the case, while the Blue Sapphire gets a matching colored strap that adds a level of holistic appeal to the timepiece. “By marrying its famous MP-11 manufacture movement, characterized by its atypical and highly visual construction, with two materials developed by our engineers – Magic Gold and Blue Sapphire –, Hublot once again brilliantly illustrates its "Art of Fusion". The art of being avant-garde, different and unique.” – Hublot CEO, Ricardo Guadalupe
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Feature IWC
It’s About Time For the first time, IWC presents the patented Timezoner function in the design code of its “Le Petit Prince” special editions. Wo rd s b y
BERT E. CASAL
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Feature IWC
THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN IWC AND THE
As an author, his most famous work is Le Petit Prince, or in English, The Little Prince. His novella has been translated to 250 languages and dialects throughout the years and has sold over 140 million copies worldwide. The story of The Little Prince is a story of dreams. Its narrator, a pilot, talks of being stranded in the desert beside his crashed aircraft, which clearly parallels Saint-Exupéry’s own 1935 experience in the Sahara Desert. In the book, however, the stranded pilot meets a young prince who has fallen to earth from a tiny asteroid. The story is one of dreams but is also a philosophical work. Its main theme can be encapsulated with the quote: “One sees clearly only with the heart. What is essential is invisible to the eyes.” That theme relates so much to the watch world, as the true heart of the watch is, more often than not, hidden from view of the wearer. The design, architecture, finish of the movement are hidden within the case. A lot of people buy watch because they like how it looks, or it tells the time really well. But there are those that buy watches because it inspires them, because it tells a story. The Le Petit Prince line of watches offers all of these, which is probably why they have reached a certain level of success in the market. For the first time ever, the Timezoner function joins the Le Petit Prince collection of watches. This patented complication enables the wearer to change between different time zones effortlessly and instantly. All you have to do is to press down the bezel, turn it to the desired location and release it. The patented Timezoner mechanism works without stopping the movement, so you don’t lose a single second. The watch is powered by the IWCmanufactured 82760 calibre which features a bi-directional Pellaton winding system. Enhanced with components made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, it builds up a power reserve of 60 hours. It has a 24-hour display for the world timer function at 12 o’clock and a date window at the 3 o’clock position. The stainless steel case measures 46 millimeters, carries a midnight-blue dial, and features a city ring made of blue ceramic. The glass is secured to allow for displacements caused by drops in air pressure. The Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince” is limited to 1,500 pieces.
FONDATION ANTOINE DE SAINT-EXUPÉRY BEGAN IN 2005. The watchmaking brand supported the foundation’s goals of ensuring that the famous Frenchman’s humanist ideas would remain alive. The foundation, in turn, supported certain endeavours that the Swiss brand had, especially relating to its interest in aviation and its pilot’s watches. The first IWC product of this collaboration was a pilot’s chronograph with a retro style and post-modern elements. Its success brought about several other limited edition pilot watches that evoke concepts of history and adventures of early aviation. We all know Saint-Exupéry as the author of one of the most translated books in the world. But he was also a poet, a journalist, and an aviator.
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Feature De Bethune
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JANUS De Bethune encapsulates the past and the present Words by
KIT O. PAYU MO
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Feature De Bethune
IN ROMAN MYTHOLOGY, JANUS IS THE GOD OF BEGINNINGS AND TRANSITIONS WHO PRESIDED OVER PASSAGEWAYS, DOORS AND GATES. Janus also presided over transitional periods such as from war to peace, and is usually depicted as having two faces looking in opposite directions, one towards the past and the other towards the future. And as the god of beginnings and transitions (literally and figuratively), Janus was also responsible for motion, changes, and time. This last responsibility is of particular importance to master watchmaker Denis Flageollet. Taking his cues from history such as the multi-faceted tower clock in Venice, as well as table clocks with their vertical, four-faceted dials, the famous Leroy 01 pocket watch presented by Louis Leroy in 1900, and more recently by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and
the Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260, not to mention Jaeger-LeCoultre’s own Reverso, Denis Flageollet has long been intrigued by the duality of Double-sided watches. True, this type of timepiece isn’t exactly a recent invention. Horologists have always been tempted to develop increasingly complicated models, and the opportunity to express the full scope of their aesthetic and technical expertise from two separate dials has always been a temptation too great to deny. Which is why Denis Flageollet jumped at the opportunity at expressing the duality of past and future with his own version of the double-sided watch. Indeed, this is an idea that has been taking shape for many years in the mind of the master watchmaker responsible for the DB28 and its many “out there” iterations.
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And it wasn’t too far a stretch. De Bethune has already been known as a brand with two opposing personalities with half of its offerings set in a “future” space where a recurring and signature “Star Trek” inspired delta bridge, and floatingcase concept have been allowed to flourish. This has been perfectly contrasted by the brand’s other face: modern interpretations of traditional designs, which feature slim Roman numerals and classic Breguet hands. Which is why the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon is the kind of double-sided timepiece that Flageollet should have made long ago. Two sides of the same coin captured for the first time in one horological package, it features the two faces of De Bethune, just like the Roman god Janus, made perfectly reversible thanks to a modified version of Flageollet’s patented floating-lug system. This
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allows the entire watch case to “swivel” and allows either side to be worn face-up thanks to a highly sophisticated mechanism based on a complex system of gears and pinions that enables the hands of both faces to turn in the right direction. Perfectly capturing the dichotomy of the De Bethune’s own contradicting personalities, the “main” face of the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon is quintessential De Bethune, and uses a riot of shapes and finishings to create the illusion of depth and relief. This silvered main dial is cut through by a stepped polished titanium hours ring marked by blue spherical “nubs” and enhanced by dramatic triangular flares at 4, 8, and 12 o’clock. This intersects with the brand’s fast-spinning, ultra-lightweight 30-second tourbillon with blued details cut out at 6 o’clock and held in place by a curved bridge. All this,
together with the oversized blued arrow hands, are presided over by the brand’s signature “Starfleet” delta bridge that features a curvedribbed pattern and a bright polished frame while shining through a cutout at the center of the dial. The “other” main dial, on the other hand, is perfectly traditional, and checks all the boxes of classic haute horlogerie as it represents the watchmaker’s tradition and heritage. Looking, for all intents and purposes like a Breguet watch dial, this more “traditional” face looks at first like a simple, classically proportioned dress watch design composed of three different levels to increase the sense of depth. This starts with an outer graduated track for precision seconds reading, followed by the hours ring with gorgeous italicized Arabic numerals, and culminating with a refined hand-guilloché pattern at the center.
These are enhanced by three central Breguet-style hands made from heat-blued titanium that, not only cements the classic Breguet-style, but also hides something most observers won’t notice at first glance: the seconds hand. Indeed, it blends in so naturally with this design, many forget about the small seconds tourbillon on the “other” side of the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. No mean watchmaking feat, this subtle but mechanical tour de force is made even more impressive by the overall thinness of the movement, all while never once calling attention to itself. Making this all possible is the calibre DB2579, a 256-piece hand-wound movement that spins at 36,000 vibrations per hour while boasting a 5-day power reserve thanks to a self-regulating twin barrel. The movement features a titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences, and patented by De Bethune in 2016. As well as, a “De Bethune” balance spring with a flat terminal curve patented in 2006, a silicone escape wheel, and (as previously mentioned) an ultra-light titanium 30-second tourbillon. Further, the swivel action of the double-sided DB Kind of Two Tourbillon is made possible by a 42.8mm Grade 5 titanium case that takes the brand’s floating case design as a jumping off point. This means the outer frame with its flowing C-case profile and instantly recognizable skeleton lugs is present and accounted for, but a crosspiece running in between the lugs is added for greater stability. This is pivotal (pardon the pun) to the pivoting central case, a rounded, polished pocket watch-like inner case that rotates completely along the 3 o’clock axis to reveal the twin dial designs. In order to ensure a crisp and accurate turn, the lugs feature a complex 28 piece rotating mechanism made of surgical steel and titanium enabling them to withstand the external rigors of water, humidity, temperature variations and continuous contact with the skin. These, along with a cam and small notch system, allow the inner case to align perfectly with the floating lugs when the rotation is done. This makes the swivel action feel like a natural extension of De Bethune’s signature design while compromising none of the brand’s distinctive character. Last but not least, De Bethune opted to lean on their traditional side with an alligator leather strap in classic piano black with a pin buckle in polished titanium so as not to detract from the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, the first ever De Bethune timepiece to unite the two halves of the brand’s disparate personality.
Feature Oris
Keeping the Hope Alive Oris introduces the third watch made in partnership with the Carl Brashear Foundation. Wo rds by
BERT E. CASAL
January-March 2021
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Feature Oris
IT IS WITH GREAT PRIDE THAT ORIS INTRODUCES THE ORIS CARL BRASHEAR CAL. 401 LIMITED EDITION, CREATED IN SUPPORT OF THE CARL BRASHEAR FOUNDATION. Limited to 2000 pieces, the Oris Cal. 401 is the first watch to carry Oris Calibre 401, the second movement from the new family of in-house automatics. Carl Brashear’s story is about one rising above from seemingly overwhelming adversities. He was born into a sharecropper’s family in rural Kentucky. He always wanted to make a different life for himself, but he was poor and faced widespread racism. In 1948, with very limited formal education, he joined the U.S. Navy where he set his heart on becoming a Navy diver. Despite his shortcomings and racial prejudice from the Navy, he became the first African American Navy diver in 1954. In 1966, he suffered the loss of the lower portion of his left leg during a critical mission off the coast of Spain. The Navy wanted to retire him because of his disabiity, but he fought to remain in active duty. He not only became the first amputee diver to continue service, but also became the first amputee diver to be called a Master Diver. The Carl Brashear Foundation is a U.S.-based non-profit organisation set up to expose the incredible life of Carl Brashear and to continue his extraordinary legacy for future generations. The Foundation has donated thousands of
dollars to veterans’ hospitals in the hope of rehabilitating the lives of wounded service members across the country. Carl Brashear’s incredible story was made into the movie Men of Honor, starring Oscar-winning actors Cuba Gooding Jr. and Robert de Niro. For this third iteration of the Carl Brashear watch, Oris packed it with their new Calibre 401. It was designed from the ground up by Oris’s
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in-house watchmakers. As well as being more accurate than a chronometer (to within -3 to +5 seconds a day), the movement solved many of the mechanical problems of our time by offering heightened levels of anti-magnetism, a five-day power reserve, and a 10-year extended warranty. The Oris Calibre 401 differs from the Calibre 400 in that it features a small seconds at 6 o’clock, an Oris signature. The watch has a blue dial, inspired by naval tradition, a uni-directional rotating bronze bezel with a diving scale in relief, and a customdesigned, hand-crafted moisture-wicking woven elastic nylon webbing strap produced for this watch by Erika’s Originals. This new watch is cased in 40 mm bronze, a material chosen to symbolise, not just the diving helmets worn by Carl during his career as a U.S. Navy Master Diver, but also because it’s a metal that will tell its own story. Bronze is a natural material that patinates as it reacts with oxygen in the air and the moisture from the wearer’s skin. Over time, it will take on a unique finish, like a visual chronicle of the wearer’s own life wearing the watch. Carl Brashear’s son Philip heads the Foundation. In an interview, he was asked how Oris helped them. He said: “It has exposed my father’s legacy to people who may have never heard of him. Not everyone saw the movie Men of
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Honor. Because of Oris, people from all over the world have got in touch to help the Foundation and its cause, and to learn more about my dad.” “This watch will again expose my father’s message of hope and resiliency,” he continued. “This world seems so angry and my father’s legacy will again be in the spotlight so that people may learn from him. Hopefully, many will see that despite our various backgrounds we are all part of the Human Race, and we must find ways to live together with respect and dignity.” “Carl is an extraordinary legacy, and we’re incredibly proud to share in it and support the foundation,” says Rolf Studer, Oris Co-CEO. “Together with the Carl Brashear Foundation, we hope that every time someone wearing the new watch looks at it, they will be reminded to never give up, and to press on, no matter how insurmountable the challenges ahead appear.”
Feature Seiko
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Seiko takes inspiration from its homeland Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature Seiko
GREAT NEWS FOR SEIKO FANS: THE PREMIER JAPANESE WATCHMAKER WILL BE RELEASING A WHOLE SERIES OF WATCHES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR TO CELEBRATE THEIR 140TH ANNIVERSARY.
With the intention of capturing the unique vision and spirit of Kintaro Hattori who founded Seiko when he was just 21 years old, the first watches to be released are a series of Prospex, Presage, and Astron watches, which will draw inspiration from the landscapes, seascapes and cityscapes of Japan. The Seiko Holdings Corporation, more commonly known as Seiko, started life in 1881 when founder Kintaro Hattori opened a watch and jewelry shop called “K. Hattori” in the Central area of Tokyo, Japan. But it wasn’t until Kintaro bought a disused factory in Tokyo in 1892 that he began producing his own wall clocks under the name “Seikosha” meaning “exquisite” (Seiko) and “house” (sha) in Japanese. The Timekeeper, Kintaro’s first pocket watch, came about in 1895, while 1913 saw Kintaro continue to “lead the way” with the Laurel, the first wristwatch made in Japan. The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, however, was the great equalizer, and saw the Seikosha factory burn to the ground. Undeterred, this only galvanized Kintaro to start anew, which led to the elimination of the “sha” from the company name. And in December 1924, a new wristwatch by Kintaro Hattori went on sale, but this time it bore the name “Seiko.” This was the watch that introduced the world to the name that would soon become synonymous with Japanese innovation, accuracy and precision. In fact, it was the direct result of Kintaro’s singleminded vision that Seiko should be “Always one step ahead of the rest,” a vision that continues to resonate and inspire the company today. Which is why to kick off the celebrations this 2021, Seiko is introducing the company’s latest diver’s watches, which are based on one of the brand’s most celebrated watches.
IRIOMOTE Seiko created Japan’s first ever diver’s watch in 1965. But it was the brand’s first high-beat diver’s watch, which made its bows in 1968 that really made its mark in the world. The 1968 Hi-Beat Diver featured a one-piece construction, a mono-directional rotating bezel and a screwdown crown. Most importantly, it was driven by a 10-beat high precision automatic caliber, and is this watch that directly inspired the trio of Seiko Prospex diver’s watches discussed here today… that and the lush and varied ecosystem of one of the premier diving sites in all of Asia. With its abundant coral reefs and teeming marine life, Iriomote Island is one of Japan’s main
Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047
Prospex 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB207
Prospex Solar Chronograph SSC807
diving spots, one that is made even more special by the pristine and primeval mangrove forests that surround it. Best of all, the forest is home to several species of flora and fauna that are rare and, in some instances, unique to the island. It is this rich biodiversity that reflect the deep and luxuriant green dial finishes of these three Seiko Prospex diver’s watches. Limited to only 3,000 pieces, the new Prospex Automatic Diver’s SLA047 is a “modern interpretation” of the traditional Seiko’s diver’s watch. Endowed with a super-hard coating on its large 44.3mm x 15.4mm stainless steel case, this 8-beat diver’s watch is capable of resisting water pressure up to 300 meters. And with a unique one-piece structure, the SLA047 is designed for saturation, as well as air diving. Further, this Seiko Prospex is powered by the 8L35 automatic caliber, which was created especially for diver’s watches. Quite possibly one of the most refined movements used in the Prospex line, 8L35 boasts a 50-hour power reserve while oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 8 beats per second. Next up, is a straight revival of the original 1968 Hi-Beat Diver in the form of the new Prospex 1968 Automatic Diver’s Modern Re-
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interpretation SPB207. This being a “modern RE-interpretation” of the brand’s classic diver’s watch, the SPB207 is slightly smaller and definitely leaner with a 42mm in diameter and 12.5mm thick stainless steel case with super-hard coating. The result is 200 meters of water resistance despite being noticeably smaller, more streamlined, less aggressive and very much slimmer than the SLA047. Powered by the 6-beat Caliber 6R35 automatic movement, which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 6 beats per second, the Seiko Prospex SPB207 boasts a power reserve of 70 hours, and is a limited edition of 6,000 pieces. Last but not least is the quartz powered Prospex Solar Chronograph SSC807, which, aside from the 1968 Hi-Beat Diver, also takes its cues from the modern Prospex Solar Chronograph line, with some aspects of the Seiko Sumo diver cult favorite thrown in to spice things up. This includes the bolder, cleaner scale on the unidirectional dive bezel insert, the even-larger 44.5mm stainless steel case, and the wide, twisted style lugs. Also a limited edition of 4,000 pieces, the SSC807 sets itself apart with the V192 solar powered quartz movement, which is accurate within 15 seconds every month, and offers a 1/5 second
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6R35 automatic caliber, and just as it performs in the Prospex SPB207, the movement beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 6 beats per second, which translates to a power reserve of 70 hours.
CHERRY BLOSSOM BY NIGHT Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB205
Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time 5X53 SSH083
chronograph, and a power reserve indicator when the chronograph is not in use. As mentioned before, all three models feature dials in a dark and luxuriant forest green. These are accented by the contrasting gold of the central seconds hands and dial text, making the dials of the two automatic watches almost indistinguishable. But like their differences in case size, the two watches distinguish themselves with definite, albeit subtle differences: the sword hands, the distinctive “stoplight” seconds hand, and applied indices of the SPB207 are slightly thinner and more streamlined than the same elements on the SLA047. This makes the larger watch look even more aggressive due to the stouter dial details. The Prospex SSC807, on the other hand, marches to the beat of current Seiko dive chronographs with black subdials, semi-skeleton sword hands, and stylized indices. As an addition, all three watches are also available with silicone rubber straps.
TOKYO DAWN Next to take the brand’s 140th anniversary stage is the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB205, the dark and golden hues of which draw its inspiration
from Japan’s rising sun, specifically: the Tokyo sunrise. This is most apparent on the dark and golden hues of the SPB205 dial, which bears a hemp leaf pattern used for over a thousand years in Japanese fabrics called “Asanoha.” On the SPB205, this pattern is enhanced by indexes and hands that reflect the signature sharpness of the collection. And most importantly, these elements mimic the yellow colors of a golden sunrise. And that’s not all, to bolster the pre-dawn effect the SPB205 accommodates the saying, “it is darkest before the dawn” by featuring a 39.3mm x 11.1mm stainless steel case “darkened” with a virtually scratchproof super-hard black coating, an enhancement that extends to the stainless steel bracelet with its stylish five-link configuration. This means not only does the bracelet have three main broad links that are satin finished, but the center links are are flanked by two highly polished narrower links, giving the strap an additional boost of refinement. The most elegant and sophisticated entry in this initial 140th anniversary roll out, the Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB205 is a limited edition of 4,000 pieces, and is made available with an optional black calf leather strap. It is powered by the 6-beat
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Bringing this initial 140th anniversary roll out home is the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time 5X53 SSH083, a watch that shares Japan’s enchantment with cherry blossoms. Indeed, the Japanese fascination with these entrancing flowers is known worldwide, and it extends far beyond the daylight hours. That’s because when seen under a star-lit sky, the captivating cherry blossom gives an ethereal and magical glow not seen during the day called “Yozakura.” The Japanese watchmaker made travelling and keeping the precise time anywhere in the world a lot easier with the world’s first GPS solar watch with the Seiko Astron back in 2012. The Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time 5X53 SSH083 maintains that tradition in 2021. And with a black case and bracelet acting as the night sky and a purple dial with pink hues acting as the ephemeral flower, the Astron SSH083 also captures the essence of Yozakura. But don’t let that mislead you, at 42.7mm x 13.3mm, this is far from a feminine timepiece. And with a 100-meter water resistant case inspired not only by the 1969 Quartz Astron, but also by Grand-Seiko pieces, the Astron SSH083 is an aggressive watch as well. And to cement that fact, the SSH083 gets the same scratch-resistant hard coating as the Presage SPB205 to preserve the jetblack sheen of its stainless steel case and three-link bracelet. But it’s the dial that steals the show. Like the Presage SPB205 before it, Seiko paid extra attention to the dial by making it look like the night sky right after sunset with the early evening stars and colors as well. This means the pink hue of the dial graduates to a darker purple towards 6 o’clock, which according to Seiko adds, “A mysterious depth and enhancing the illusion that it is a gentle spring evening in Japan.” Best of all, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time 5X53 SSH083 is powered by the latest and most advanced GPS Solar Dual-Time movement from the Seiko factory floors. Indeed, Caliber 5X53 is a completely new movement with “high speed time zone adjustment,” and a “time transfer function,” which automatically adjusts to the exact time anywhere in the world with a precision of one second every 100,000 years. And did we mention it does all this on just solar power? Like the other timepieces in the 140th anniversary collection, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time 5X53 SSH083 is also a limited edition, albeit to 1500 pieces only.
Feature MB&F
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Beauty in Blue and Green
A colorful machine from MB&F Wo rd s b y
KATHERINE S. CUNANAN
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Feature MB&F
IF YOU’RE IN SEARCH OF AN IMPRESSIVE WATCH, LOOK NO FURTHER THAN MB&F. Brave, bold,
and unconventional are just a few words that accurately describe an MB&F timepiece. The watches are not for the faint of heart or the timid. These watches are daring and courageous. They are innovative and pioneering. They are MB&F. Maximilian Büsser & Friends, or MB&F, is known for the out-of-this-world concepts and designs that captivate and enthrall us. Maximilian Büsser himself is amazingly creative and, thanks to a stint in the jewelry industry, always chooses the best gems and materials to work with. Sometimes even materials you wouldn’t even think belong on a watch. But that is the brave mind of Büsser — confident and experimental. Büsser feeds off of the creativity of others and has surrounded himself with “& Friends” to
accompany him on his fantastic journey. That journey began in 2005, and has continued to this day. Some say creativity ebbs and flows, but with Büsser, it seems to flow and flow and flow. The brand’s initial timepieces were created for men, but trust me when I say they caught the eye of many a lady too. After all, confidence and courageousness exist in any gender. Soon enough, MB&F had an offering specifically for the ladies. (At last!) Good things come to those who wait, and the wait for the MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT was definitely worth it. As Büsser himself explains, “I created MB&F to do what I believe in, making three-dimensional sculptural kinetic art pieces that give the time. I was creating for myself, which is the only way we could have made all these crazy and
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audacious pieces over the years. But at some point there came a desire to create something for the women in my family. I’ve been surrounded by their influence all my life, so I gave myself the challenge to do something for them.” To the MB&F brief of bold and unconventional, he added elegant and captivating.
LEGACY The previous releases of the MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT were indeed beautiful. The editions launched in 2019 were different iterations of a white gold and diamond combination: black lacquer dial plate with case set with brilliant-cut diamonds; dial plate and case both fully set with brilliant-cut diamonds; and dial plate and case both fully set with baguette-cut diamonds. The year 2020 had MB&F adding three new editions
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lugs were made slimmer, the curves were made more obvious, and deep bevels made the entire creation more elegant. Even the hour and minute hands have that feminine mystic in the undulating shape. No straight, rigid lines here, just curves that make us smile. The tourbillon cage is still front and center, sharing the dome space with the time display at 7 o’clock. Every design aspect of an MB&F piece is deliberate, and the placement and tilt of the time display is no different. Being at the 7 means only the wearer has the perfect view of the time. After all, it’s her watch, so it’s no one else’s business. The MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT is not just a beauty, it has power behind it. The engine is of a three-dimensional vertical architecture, with automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house. Any tourbillon, a device created to counteract the effect of gravity on a watch, is impressive but the flying version is just that much more because there is no visible upper bridge that supports the case. As MB&F explains, “the LM FlyingT engine utilises a vertical and coaxial approach. The cinematic flying tourbillon, which boldly projects beyond the dial-plate of LM FlyingT, is a visually stunning example of the rotating escapement.”
VISUALLY STUNNING The MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT is both a technical wonder and a beauty to behold. That is what continues to draw people to MB&F creations — the avant-garde creations executed with perfection and dazzle.
to the team, in red gold and platinum, and guilloche plates. This year, in the middle of a continuing pandemic, MB&F has given us a spot of joy, a burst of color. Something to gaze at, to fall in love with, and to treasure. The delightful MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT is now available in an 18k white gold case with diamonds, and a new dial plate in deep blue lapis lazuli. And what a beautiful blue it is. The color blue symbolizes calm, trust, and intelligence. Lapis lazuli is a gemstone prized for the bright blue color. The brighter the blue, the better. The color, in fact, is what distinguishes one cut of lapis lazuli from another. Certain inclusions, such as pyrite, enhance the deep blue color with golden specks. In ancient Rome, the gemstone was described as a fragment of the starry sky. Perhaps that is what
MB&F had in mind when they envisioned this edition of the FlyingT — the expanse of a starry sky. Why choose one star when you can have the whole sky on your wrist? But MB&F takes it a step further. The gorgeous blue dial plate is complemented by a bright green leather strap. Green symbolizes growth, harmony, and stability. Blue and green, when chosen in the perfect complementary hues, are a match made in heaven. So you can say the watch gives both the earth and sky.
FEMININITY Similar to the previously released models, the blue and green edition is specially suited to the ladies wrist. The case height and diameter were reduced to bring focus to the sapphire dome (as if the dome didn’t draw focus to itself already). The
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Feature Zenith
THE MASTER
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Zenith unveils a faster, sleeker and sportier Chronomaster Sport Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
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Feature Zenith
MANY CALIBRE FAITHFUL ALREADY KNOW THAT 1969 WAS A BANNER YEAR FOR ZENITH. But for
those just joining the discussion that was the year the brand stunned the world with its then brand new calibre, the 3019 PHC, which it christened “El Primero.” Making its debut driving the Zenith A386, it was the only integrated chronograph calibre with automatic winding in both directions thanks to a central rotor on ball bearings. More importantly, it stood out for being the world’s only chronograph with a heart beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz (compared to the 21,600 vph, which was typical at the time), thus endowing the chronograph calibre with an accuracy within the nearest tenth of a second. Even more astonishing is the fact that the movement is still being used today, albeit in a thoroughly modified form. Indeed, in its over 50 year-history, the El Primero has evolved in a number of directions. Incorporating numerous improvements to arrive at what we have today. Which is why on the 50th anniversary of the El
Primero in 2019, Zenith introduced the limited edition Chronomaster 2 El Primero Striking Tenth equipped with the new El Primero 3600 automatic movement (for 36,000 vibrations per hour), replacing the El Primero 400 and designed to take full advantage of its 5Hz frequency. Considered by many to be the most emblematic expression of the iconic El Primero, the Chronomaster has once again been tapped for 2021 and endowed with a significant performance jump courtesy of a newly refined El Primero 3600, which once again serves as power source, albeit this time in a regular production watch. “I wanted to bring back the Chronomaster collection to the top – where it should be,” said Zenith CEO Julien Tornare And drawing from a well-established design vocabulary, the new Chronomaster Sport is thus the latest iteration of the brand’s “go anywhere, do anything” chronographs, which combines the spirit of the El Primero A386, the form of the Chronomaster De Luca, and the high frequency performance of the El Primero 400.
The new Chronomaster Sport comes in two versions: with either a black lacquer or matte white dial, both of which are crafted in a sleek and robust steel case measuring 41mm. Both feature pump-style pushers, a dial color matching date window at 4:30, as well as the signature El Primero tri-color overlapping chronograph subdials in blue, anthracite, and light grey, just like the El Primero A386 from 1969. Its most standout feature, however, has to be its striking black ceramic bezel, which not only transforms the look of the watch, but also has the added benefit of being virtually scratch proof and impervious to UV rays. Bringing us to that (rather large) elephant in the room. Yes, it would be fair to admit that the new Zenith Chronomaster Sport DOES look uncomfortably like the Rolex Daytona. In fact, they look so similar they might as well be siblings... or cousins, which they kind of are. Not many are aware but at one point the Zenith El Primero movement was used to power
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the Rolex Daytona. That’s right, not everybody remembers (or wants to admit) that for over ten years starting in 1988 the venerable Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 used a highly modified version of the then resurrected El Primero 400 (that’s another story for another day). Indeed, the calibre 4030 was the first automatic chronograph movement to be used in the Daytona. So it’s not too off base to make a hereditary connection between the two. Back to the ceramic bezel, a closer inspection reveals the words, “1/10th OF A SECOND,” which not only sets the Zenith further apart from the Rolex, but is also the first indication that there is more going on under the Chronomaster Sport’s hood than meets the eye. According to Zenith, this is the first time these words have ever been etched onto a bezel (ceramic or otherwise) because if it isn’t clear by now, the El Primero 3600 has the capability of measuring time down to 1/10th of a second. This means that chronograph hand makes an entire lap around the dial in just 10 seconds, six times the speed of a normal chronograph hand all while tracking each tenth of a second along the way. Better still, thanks to numerous upgrades and modifications the movement makes use of fewer parts than the El Primero 400 caliber it replaces: 314 compared to 326 to be precise, and its all due to the fact that Zenith has optimized and streamlined its manufacturing processes. The result is a thoroughly modern movement, the numerous upgrades and finishes of which makes full use of the exhibition caseback. These include blued screws, a blued fully exposed column wheel, and a satin-finished Zenith starshaped rotor. Additionally, the new movement also features a hacking seconds for optimized time setting, a quick-setting date function, and a longer power reserve of 60 hours up from 50 thanks to an optimized kinetic chain. The new Chronomaster Sport is offered with two distinct choices of bracelet and strap. The first is a steel oyster style bracelet with a polished center link, and brushed links with polished bevels at their edges for better visual depth, while the second is a rubber strap with a Cordura fabric effect in either blue or black. The three-link bracelet is obviously the more traditional way to go, but the rubber strap adds a level of character that breathes new life to the proceedings. Your choice.
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Feature
H. Moser & Cie.
THE ELECTRIC BLUES H. Moser & Cie. Endeavors to be heard Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO 84 www.calibremagazine.com
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Feature
H. Moser & Cie.
THE COMBINATION OF A MAGNIFICENT FLYING TOURBILLON WITH ONE OF THE MOST TRADITIONAL WATCH COMPLICATIONS IN HISTORY IS BACK, AND IN TYPICAL H. MOSER & CIE. FASHION THEY LET THE COMPLICATIONS DO THE TALKING. That’s right, the Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon returns for 2021, and even if it’s making its comeback sans any technical changes it still demands attention due to it refreshed and admittedly younger persona. Originally making its bows in 2019, the 10-piece limited edition Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon was already a tour de force in complicated minimalism with a thoroughly black dial encased within precious white gold. While an elegant hand-stitched black alligator strap added the perfect finishing touch. Indeed, in another watchmaker’s hands the act of combining a minute repeater with a flying tourbillon would have produced an ornate and extravagant “masterpiece.” Not so at the house of H. Moser & Cie. At the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture, the complication is King, and by eschewing every form of over elaborate decoration, H. Moser &
Cie. has let the complications do all the talking. Thus, just like its 2019 forebear, the dial of the new Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is sans any superfluous decorative flourishes or indications. Indeed, there aren't even any logos, words or indices to clutter the proceedings. Instead, the exposed hammers and gongs of the minute repeater and the flying tourbillon take center stage and are given space to breath with only the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands to accompany them. But while the black 2019 version was the epitome of stately elegance, the new 2021 Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon has a decidedly younger vibe. Which brings us to the dial of the 2021 model. Eschewing the stark elegance of the previous model’s black lacquered dial, H. Moser & Cie. has chosen to feature the newest color in their repertoire: electric blue, a color that transforms the entire affair into something more vibrant and youthful, while still championing the brand’s inhouse philosophy of “less is more.” This is why the uncluttered dial is still a two-tiered affair with the top section surgically
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“excised” at the periphery to make way for the hammers and gongs of the minute repeater and at 6 o’clock to allow for the full breadth of the tourbillon. Indeed, the entire chiming mechanism is displayed on the dial at the 10 o’clock mark, while the bottom of the dial is where the flying tourbillon reigns supreme. But locating the gongs on one level and curving them so as not to interfere with the flying tourbillon came with its own unique set of problems. Which is why H. Moser & Cie. drew on the expertise of Timeless SA, a specialist in minute repeaters to design brand new movement architecture to showcase the beauty of the minute repeater by placing the hammers and chimes on the dial side. Bumping the limited edition number up to 20 pieces, the new Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is still powered by the 400-part HMC 903 manual-winding movement co-developed by Timeless SA, which beats at a stately 21,600 vibrations per hour while boasting a power reserve of 90 hours, or a little under 4 days. Further, the resolutely contemporary one-minute
flying tourbillon is still visible at 6 o’clock behind a skeletonized bridge, and is fitted with a ball bearing to improve accuracy and chronometry, as it appears to float weightlessly on the electric blue dial. As is standard with all minute repeaters, case architecture was important as well. Which is why the Manufacture chose to replace the white gold of the previous model with titanium, a material known for its “high elastic modulus,” which means that it deforms very little under stress and is consequently more rigid. Best of all, its low density ensures that it is also lightweight, and thanks to its low damping effect is a better material for retaining the vibratory energy of sound rather than allowing it to dissipate. Further, significant effort went into ensuring that the diameter and thickness of the case retained their Moser-signature elegant proportions; this despite the fact that the case middle had to be widened to accommodate the movement while allowing for enough space to create a sound box. This amplifies the chiming of the hours, quarter-hours and minutes, which are struck by two raised hammers based on information provided by different feeler-spindles. Indeed, the geometry of the case has been meticulously designed, developed and adapted to maximize the properties of titanium and enhance its impact, amplifying the resonance chamber whilst allowing the essential walls to form part of the resonance. Even the sliding bolt wasn’t spared improvement. It is fitted on a Teflon runner to ensure buttery smooth operation, and is built into the main plate to save space. This has resulted in a Moser watch that isn’t exactly small, 43mm in diameter and 14mm in height to be exact. And while this hasn’t resulted in particularly petite proportions, the Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon isn’t unwieldy either, and still sits reasonably well on any average sized wrist. In closing, the electric blue Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon in titanium is a 20-piece limited edition timepiece, and to ensure its sophistication is matched once again with an elegant hand-stitched black alligator leather strap with red lining and a titanium pin buckle. At once stately but less conventional, this is an H. Moser & Cie. timepiece, through and through, and is the same Endeavor Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon that resonated in the industry, albeit re-imagined for a younger generation of movers and shakers.
Feature Urwerk
The Tyrannosaurus Rex
The Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex is the latest iteration of Urwerk’s UR-100 collection. Wo rd s b y
BERT E. CASAL
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Feature Urwerk
THIS LATEST RELEASE CARRIES BOTH URWERK’S
system governed by the Windfänger turbine and planetary gearing. Three satellites, each carrying four hours, rotate on a three-armed carousel. In turn, each satellite carries a red pointer along a 60-minute scale. The regular orbit of the hours replicates the planetary dance in miniature scale. The watch is wound by a rotor while you wear it. This is coupled to a device called the Windfänger that is specific to the UR-100 models. It’s a planetary gear that limits the action of the rotor to avoid overwinding and excessive wear. Finally, the UR-100V T-Rex has a feature that puts other watches into the dinosaur age. Once the red pointer of the satellite hours has completed its 60-minute journey, it reappears to show the distance travelled by our planet. In the scale at 9 o’clock on the case, the pointer shows the 555.5 km travelled by a point on the equator in a period of 20 minutes. The 20-minute scale on the other side of the dial shows the 35,742 km the Earth travels in its orbit around the sun in that time. The Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex comes in a limited edition of only 22 pieces.
GENOME IN ITS SATELLITE HOURS AND THAT OF ITS NAMESAKE IN THE TEXTURE OF ITS REINFORCED BRONZE CASE. This primal finish acts as a perfect foil to the modernity of this time-telling device. Yet, both elements meld into a cohesive timepiece that sits beautifully on the wrist and makes for a good topic of conversation. The 41-mm UR-100V T-Rex features satellite wandering hours and a new type of self-winding system. However, its hide, in a mosaic of scales, has a somewhat more sensual texture. Its case is in solid bronze that has undergone three successive treatments. The first lies in the unusual composition of the alloy which results in a delicate patina. The bronze is then subjected to a controlled milling station that carves the pattern of the scales on the top and sides of the case. The final processes, sand-blasting and Urwerk’s proprietary method of biochemical burnishing, give the watch its distinctive color. The machine responsible for indicating the time is the UR 12.02 with a self-winding
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January-March 2021
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Feature Bremont
January-March 2021
THEIR FINEST HOUR Bremont launches a truly unique limited edition box set to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the Battle of Britain Wo rd s b y
KIT O. PAYUMO
Feature Bremont
“…The Battle of France is over. I expect that the battle of Britain is about to begin. Upon this battle depends the survival of Christian civilization. Upon it depends our own British life and the long continuity of our institutions and our Empire. The whole fury and might of the enemy must very soon be turned on us. Hitler knows that he will have to break us in this island or lose the war. If we can stand up to him, all Europe may be free and the life of the world may move forward into broad, sunlit uplands. But if we fail, then the whole world, including the United States, including all that we have known and cared for, will sink into the abyss of a new Dark Age made more sinister, and perhaps more protracted, by the lights of a perverted science. Let us therefore brace ourselves to our duties, and so bear ourselves that, if the British Empire and its Commonwealth last for a thousand years, men will still say, "This was their finest hour”.” – Winston Churchill The “This was their finest hour” speech was delivered by Winston Churchill at the House of Commons on June 18, 1940, more than three weeks before the Battle of Britain. Using his skillful rhetoric Churchill hardened public opinion against the tide of capitulation to the Germans, which the nation was leaning toward, and bolstered the resolve of the British military, specifically the RAF Fighter Command, for the coming and inevitable conflict ahead. The battle itself was waged in the skies of Britain over the southern part of England during the summer and autumn of 1940. During this major air campaign the Royal Air Force (RAF) and the Fleet Air Arm (FAA) of the Royal Navy successfully defended the United Kingdom against the large-scale attacks of the Luftwaffe, Nazi Germany’s air force. Described as the first major military campaign fought entirely by air forces, the Battle of Britain raged from July 10 to October 31, 1940, overlapping the period of large-scale bombing attacks by the Germans known as the Blitz. Nazi Germany’s failure to destroy Britain’s air defenses was the first major defeat of Adolf Hitler and Germany, and is considered by many as one of the major turning points of World War II, which significantly shifted American opinion. During the battle, America was convinced that the United Kingdom would not survive. That all changed after the Battle of Britain, prompting American journalist, Ralph Ingersoll, to conclude that “Adolph Hitler met his first defeat in eight years, in what might go down in history as a battle as important as Waterloo or Gettysburg.” Eighty years later, the events of that summer
and fall of 1940 continue to be of significance to Nick and Giles English, the brothers behind the U.K.-based watchmaking brand Bremont. “So much of our lives have revolved around wartime aviation and mechanical devices,” said Nick English. “The Battle of Britain was such an iconic time in British history, and all of the airmen from both sides were superheroes of the day (they still are in Giles’ and my households).” Thus, to celebrate the 80th anniversary of this most triumphant time in their country’s history, the British watchmaker is presenting the “Battle of Britain,” a “rather special” box set of only 80 limited pieces comprised of a pair of timepieces inspired by the two iconic aircraft that defended the British Empire in that most tumultuous time: the Spitfire and the Hurricane.
Bremont Battle of Britain Spitfire GMT Chronograph Paying homage to Bremont’s first historic limited edition, the EP120, the Bremont Battle of Britain (BOB) Spitfire GMT Chronograph is a smartly contemporary take on the classic
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pilot chronograph design, and takes its cues from the Smith clocks that equipped the Spitfires that flew in the Battle of Britain. More importantly, the Bremont BOB Spitfire draws its inspiration from the Supermarine Spitfire itself, the most widely produced and strategically important British single-seat fighter of World War II, as reflected on the bespoke closed caseback, which features a beautifully detailed stamping of a Supermarine Spitfire. Indeed, the Bremont BOB Spitfire is a dark and contemporary beauty, which tempers its bold and aggressive visage with touches of very-modern elegance. Premiere of which is an overall shape that hews close to the classic pilot chronograph form but is reinterpreted in a modern 43mm DLC coated stainless steel case that features the brand’s signature Trip-Tick multi-piece case construction. This allows the rounded angles of the lugs and case top assembly to sit atop the ribbed cylindrical mid case, which in turn gives space to an expansive dial and bezel from which the watch designers expressed their most progressive reinterpretation.
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“Authenticity abounds with the Bremont Battle Of Britain Hurricane....” “...while the Spitfire in reinterpreted in 43mm guise”
The matte black Smith clock-inspired dial of the Bremont BOB Spitfire takes this vintageinspired progression even further with modern Arabic numerals contrasting with the classic-styled cathedral hands. This complements the three multi-level sub-dials in a tricompax arrangement at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock of the chronograph, the highlight of which is the 30-minute 12 o’clock subdial in contrasting silver. It further stands out by being designed in the “Time of Trip” style (with accompanying text) of vintage dashboard clocks and enhanced with a bold lumed red hand. The subdial is also imprinted with the year “1940,” for historical significance.
Bremont Battle of Britain Hurricane And while the Bremont BOB Spitfire may be the more aggressive of the pair, the Bremont Battle of Britain Hurricane is the more authentic model with an overall approach far more rooted in World War II-era design. Not the least of which is the more compact 40mm stainless steel case with a mix of polished and satin finishes that add a sense of dynamism to the design. Like the BOB
Spitfire, the BOB Hurricane boasts 100-meters of water resistance, as well as the same type of stamping on its bespoke closed caseback, this time of the iconic single-seat fighter plane by Hawker Aircraft Ltd. Handsome and contemporary but still oozing in vintage classicism, the Bremont Battle of Britain Hurricane three-hander takes its cues from the clocks found in the iconic Hawker Hurricane, which is credited with more Luftwaffe bomber “kills” that any other fighter aircraft in the battle. This simple, albeit black elemental dial is a mix of old and new with a railroad minutes track matched with solidly modern Arabic numerals highlighted with either a pure white SuperLumiNova, or a light khaki shade in an alternating pattern. These contrast nicely with the classicstyled cathedral hands lumed in the same light khaki shade as the even-numbered hour numerals. A red seconds hand punctuates the proceedings, while a date window stands at 3 o’clock. Both Battle of Britain models are powered with the help of “The House of ETA,” with heavily modified ETA-based automatic movements
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customized to Bremont specifications. These include the addition of Glucydur balances, Anachron balance springs, Nivaflex 1 mainsprings, as well as chronometer certifications. The powertrain of the Bremont BOB Spitfire for example is the ETA 7754-based BE-54E automatic GMT chronograph movement, which offers an adjustable 24-hour GMT hand, a 12hour chronograph, and a 42-hour power reserve, all while working at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The Bremont BOB Hurricane, on the other hand, is driven by the ETA 2892-A2-based BE-92AE, an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve and a 28,800 beat rate. And while both models take a similar vintagestyle route in terms of choice of strap, each still differs massively from the other. The strap of the Bremont BOB Spitfire, for example is, interestingly, the more sedate of the two with a very conservative black leather strap with offwhite side stitching and DLC treated pin buckle. The more traditional Bremont BOB Hurricane, on the other hand, gets the more overt styling strap with a period-accurate vintage brown leather bund strap with stainless steel pin buckle that looks just the part. And that’s not all, to further enhance the historical significance of the limited edition sets Bremont is also offering every proud owner of the Battle of Britain with an “unforgettable and commemorative experience” in the form of a flight over Duxford, United Kingdom in an actual Supermarine Spitfire restored by the watchmaker’s partner, the Aircraft Restoration Company. And if all that wasn’t already enough each limited edition box comes with a commemorative disc, which will be engraved with the date of the flight. “It is the epic story of man and machine, the wonderful celebration of gallantry twinned with technological advance,” continued Bremont cofounder Nick English about the Battle of Britain. “The fact that we have come up with a beautifully engineered set of timepieces commemorating the battle, and with it comes the unique opportunity to experience the adrenaline and history of flying in a wartime Spitfire, is a totally unique offering in the marketplace. It’s all rather special really.” “The gratitude of every home in our Island, in our Empire, and indeed throughout the world, except in the abodes of the guilty, goes out to the British airmen, who, undaunted by odds, unwearied in their constant challenge and mortal danger, are turning the tide of the world war by their prowess and by their devotion. Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few.” – Winston Churchill
Timeframe
BLUE HOUR
The Petronas Twin Towers in Kuala Lumpur during BLUE HOUR. Blue Hour is when the sky turns deep blue, 20 to 30 mins after sunset or just before sunrise.
Photo: Keith Sundiang
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