Calibre Magazine April-June 2021 by calibremagph

W W W. C A L I B R E M A G A Z I N E . C O M VOLUME 16 ISSUE 132 / APR- JUN 2021

APOGEE Jaeger-LeCoultre takes the Reverso to unprecedented heights

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J A E G E R - L E C O U LT R E REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185 QUADRIPTYQUE

Minutes April-June 2021

Editor's words

atches have been going gangbusters. We are, as we have been saying, seeing more enthusiasm and appreciation for wristwatches than ever before. Some people say this is an appreciation of fine mechanical watchmaking. While we do agree with this, we also think it is part of a larger swell of interest in watches in general. The watch we have heralded on our cover this month, for example, is a vision of fine watchmaking at its best. The JLC Reverso Hybrid Mechanica Calibre 185 is an insane complication from a mythic house. It has mechanical daring, engineering artistry and a wonderful level of finishing. By the way, watch our video to see how to pronounce Jaeger-LeCoultre correctly. We ask others to do so. They answered in perfect timing together. It was awesome and completely unplanned. But that’s kind of the point now. We have deep deep enthusiasts who will hunt down pieces like the Hybrid Mechanica Calibre 185, but we also have a whole lot of people who want to learn about

watches more and are starting into it new. Which is why we worked with premium mall operator Ayala Malls in a project designed to make people feel a little more comfortable about going into watch shops. We at Calibre and all our friends love them, we enjoy chatting with the very-well-versed people in the shops and even waving familiarly as we walk by. But not everyone feels that way. So, as proper enablers, we do our best to get people to fall down our little rabbit hole. So we continue to herald all forms of horological enthusiasm, whether with young people transitioning from a smart watch to something with a little more individuality or a career person building value-oriented watches to help complete their different looks or the executive looking to move to more serious pieces to big spenders who want to learn a little more. Actually all of them, and all of us, are always learning. That's the fun part. So enjoy, and share. And say thank you. A whole lot of work goes into making these watches. Even more work went into bringing up the people who like them. So yes, say thank you. Happy Father’s Day.

" S O M E P E O P L E S AY T H I S I S A N A P P R E C I AT I O N O F F I N E M E C H A N I C A L WAT C H M A K I N G . W H I L E W E D O A G R E E W I T H T H I S , W E A L S O T H I N K I T I S PA RT O F A L A R G E R S W E L L O F I N T E R E S T I N WAT C H E S I N G E N E R A L . "

Carl S. Cunanan Editor-in-chief

carsandcalibres

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Elegance is an attitude Eddie Peng

Longines Boutique 2/F SM Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, Mandaluyong City

HydroConquest

April-June 2021

Contents Cover Watch

C OV E R WAT C H Jaeger-LeCoultre

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Tells the most comprehensive story of cosmic and terrestrial time, yet

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

Vacheron Constantin

Ultra-thin watches donned in white gold

Patek Philippe

Is in line with another exceptional calendar watch

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

A. Lange & Söhne

Shimmers with copper and Gold Flux

Cartier

The Libre collection

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

Richard Mille

Goes the engineering extra mile

Bvlgari

Divissima and Allegra

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

Rolex

The Explorer II in Oystersteel

Tudor

Once again goes racing with its diver’s watch

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

Audemars Piguet

Employs ceramic to highlight contrasting shapes

Roger Dubuis

Passes with flying colors

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

Panerai

A touch of dainty

Montblanc

Dresses appropriately with their own proprietary material

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April-June 2021

Contents Features

TAG Heuer

Completely reworks an old favorite

Oris

Dive deep with the new AquisPro

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April-June 2021

Contents Regulars

Minutes

Carl S. Cunanan

Tempus Incognitum JP C. Calimbas

Back to Basics

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

Vintage Explorer Jose Martin V. Ursúa

The Wind-Up

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre World

Timeframe

Pictures in time as we travel the world

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Editor-In-Chief

Carl S. Cunanan Joseph Peter C. Calimbas

Executive Editor Senior Editor

Hernan C. Mapua Jason S. Ang

Collections Editor

Kit O. Payumo

Associate Editor

Alberto E. Casal

Senior Staff Writer Multimedia Editor

Design Director

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita

Charie L. Biaden

Senior Designer

Mark David A. See

Junior Designer

Mary Ann E. Marcelo

Contributing Writers

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc.

Katherine S. Cunanan, Jose Martin V. Ursúa,

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Contributing Photographer

Keith Sundiang Distributed by: Alphastream Marketing Inc.

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Publisher

C! Publishing and Media Group, Inc.

The editors and publishers of this magazine give no warranties, guarantees or assurances and make no representations regarding any goods or

Managing Director Directors

services advertised in this edition. No part of this magazine may be reproduced,

Carl S. Cunanan

in part or in whole without written permission of the publisher.

Carl S. Cunanan, Kevin C. Limjoco,

Michael L. Lhuiller & Paolo M. Puyat-Martel Senior Accountant

Merline B. Urdas

Credit and Collection Officer Executive Secretary Legal Counsel

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Calibre 132

Tempus Incognitum April-June 2021

A Lil’ Blue in a Sea of Green

reen dials. This seems to be the unifying theme of several top watch manufactures this year. Off the top of my head, there is Patek Philippe with their olive Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Audemars Piguet and their green sunburst dial Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin, JLC’s Reverso Tribute and Montblanc with a limited edition 1858 Chronograph with a new shade of gold known as Lime Gold for the case and dial providing the contrast to you guessed it… green markers and indices. There are more green dials from other watch brands such as Panerai, IWC, Tudor and if I’m not mistaken, Frederique Constant too. I was actually surprised my favorite watch from the 2021 Watches and Wonders, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin didn’t come in green

too. After some thought and looking at the still attention-grabbing leather backpack Vacheron Constantin gave out a few years ago in its unique Overseas Blue finish, I realized that the Overseas Blue is the signature hue of the collection so no green dial is quite understandable. Besides, the watch’s blue dial is what really makes this white gold perpetual calendar pop. So why green? At first, I thought that green represented money (at least the Asian side of me thought that) which of course given the prevailing global conditions is what many of us are preoccupied with or how to manage given the lack of it. But then these major brands and a big percentage of their clients probably don’t think the same as I so it has to be something else. Having recently used Google to seek out the symbolism of the color blue, I keyed in “what does green convey” on my search bar. The

JP C. Calimbas Executive editor

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answers were hope, renewal, regenerating and growth among other definitions that point to better times ahead. Collectively, we all need some sort of healing and regeneration from what all of us have gone through the past year and a half. Watch manufacturers and other businesses have taken a hit financially while others have perhaps taken more of an emotional struggle too in their personal lives. Now with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar being my personal favorite from the sea of novelties that were unveiled, I had to recheck what blue symbolized and why I recently took great pains in seeking out a bouquet of blue roses for Mother’s Day recently. After hitting the enter key, what popped out made me smile a little then a wave of memories came back. The word “perseverance” was in front of me in bold letters.

Calibre 132

Back to Basics April-June 2021

Independents

The Lure of the Obscure and the Unique

hen you start collecting watches, being part of a close-knit community is an amazing feeling. Having a watch that is popular and well-known can be a very satisfying experience for any person. The sense of belonging one gets from these collector groups is second to none. Many people never stray from this well-travelled path. This is why we have classics and icons in the first place. A Rolex Submariner is the dream watch for many people - both hardcore enthusiasts and the “Average Joe” aspire to wear and own a Submariner. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. In fact, one can argue that this universal appeal just shows how amazing this watch is. No matter how experienced or knowledgeable a person is about watches, he will hold the Submariner in the highest regard just as any other person. However, as you go down the rabbithole of watch collecting, some people look and yearn for something different. Though you may appreciate these classics and icons, it can get monotonous and repetitive at times. Just like you want variety in what you eat, that holds true

for watches as well. Some variety is key to keep things fresh and interesting. Perhaps I’m just spoiled or jaded (depending on how you look at it) since I’ve already seen the supposed ‘pinnacle of horology’ at Baselworld. It’s not the usual stuff from TAG Heuer, Omega or even Rolex that makes my heart beat faster. That particular honor is reserved for the Independents. It’s stuff from De Bethune, Moser, Czapek, Konstantin Chaykin, F.P. Journe and Ferdinand Berthoud that keeps me awake at night. In my own personal opinion, this is haute horlogerie at its most unique and finest. This desire for something special, quirky and unusual isn’t restricted to those who can actually afford the stratospheric prices of the independent watchmakers I just mentioned. For ‘salarymen’ such as myself who keep a normal 8 am – 5 pm job but want something different for our personal collection, we look into other (more affordable) independent watch companies to fulfill this need. Brands such as Oris, Doxa, Sinn and NOMOS all dance to the beat of their own respective drums. As relatively small, independent companies in comparison

Bryan Martin B. Zialcita Multimedia Editor

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to other more mainstream watch brands, these 4 companies have their own unique design language and philosophy. More importantly, they have the flexibility to try new things which is something that bigger, more popular brands normally cannot do. Some new, highly regarded brands such as Ming and Kurono have already developed a cult following thanks to their relative ‘bang for buck’ selling proposition that puts focus on their unique designs, amazing fit and finish, and low production volume. Their watches usually sell out within minutes upon release. Independents are the last bastion of free thought and free speech in an increasingly homogenous watch industry. For watch guys who have seen it all, these companies remind us of why we got into this hobby in the first place. Most of us just wanted something special and unique to wear, regardless of its price tag.

Calibre 132

Vintage Explorer April-June 2021

The Nearly Watches

he term “Nearly Man” refers to someone from whom much was expected, but who failed to live up to his potential. Perhaps there was a fatal character flaw or an essential ingredient missing in his character, or possibly the expectations were too high. Or maybe it was simply down to bad luck. The term is most often used in politics, but can also be applied elsewhere — including the watch world, which has had its share of “notquites” that were destined for great things until destiny changed its mind.

Rolex Tru-Beat (1954-1959) The Tru-Beat demonstrates the need to ask one basic question before launching a new product: “Who is asking for this?” Looking like a common Oyster Perpetual, the Ref. 6556 was distinguished by a sweep hand that moved only once per second. This “seconde morte” complication was supposedly marketed toward medical practitioners who needed to measure pulses. To Rolex’s surprise, there weren’t many takers and the TruBeat was quickly discontinued. But why did it flop? It’s not that collectors were confusing them with cheap quartzes, because 1) the Tru-Beat predated the quartz revolution by 15 years, and 2) the earliest quartzes were stratospherically priced. (In 1969, you could buy seven Rolex Submariners for the price of one Seiko Astron.) My best guess is that buyers saw no aesthetic appeal in the jumping

second complication, and recoiled at its extra cost and potential reliability hit.

IWC Ingenieur 500,000 A/m (1989-1993) The brains at Schaffhausen had spent the 80s working on magnetic fieldresistant movements with Porsche Design and the Bundeswehr. Now it would use that knowledge to turn the thirdgeneration Ingenieur into an antimagnetic masterpiece. The Ref. 3508’s movement incorporated several innovations including a niobium-zirconium balance spring, and was successfully tested up to 3.9 million A/m. However, IWC was content to guarantee it to a conservative 500,000 A/m. By comparison, Rolex’s lauded Milgauss was only rated to 1000 Gauss (naturally), which is the equivalent of 80,000 A/m. Unfortunately, that NbZr spring had a secret weakness worthy of a comic-book superhero. Although the movement could withstand a rareearth magnet with ease, its kryptonite was its acute sensitivity to temperature swings. Sudden heat or cold would ruin its accuracy, and all the efforts of IWC’s engineers could not salvage their sinking flagship. The 500,000 A/m is often referred to as a “glorious failure,” which is a polite way of saying “failure.”

Panerai Luminor Marina Composite (2010?) Like the previous super-Ingenieur, the final entry is another example of ambition outstripping technology. The PAM 386 made headlines when it was announced as a novelty for SIHH 2011. A year prior,

Jose Martin V. Ursúa Contributing writer

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Panerai had pioneered the use of a new composite with the PAM 339 Radiomir. On the 386, this meant a Luminor case in a gorgeous shade of chocolate brown. When combined with a similarly-hued dial, black hands, and the Assolutamente strap, the 386 had Paneristi racing to place their orders. And then… nothing. Swiss watch companies can be notoriously tight-lipped, and an omerta was in effect over the fate of the 386. But there were educated guesses. In 2011, forums yielded accounts of 339s discoloring and chipping upon contact with sweat and other elements. Rumor has it that the more complex shape of the Luminor (vs. the simpler Radiomir) exacerbated the problems with the composite. In the end, the 386 was the horological equivalent of vaporware — much hyped, long delayed, and never seen again. Note that all of these watches are highly desirable to collectors today. It is not known how many Tru-Beats were produced, but they seldom appear on the market. Furthermore, many of the surviving examples have had their deadbeat Cal.1040s replaced with more traditional movements. The Ingenieur Ref. 3508 is similarly rare, with less than 3000 assembled. But rarest of all is the PAM 386, with a production run of exactly zero pieces. If you locate one, you’ve either found a prototype, or you’re being scammed.

April-June 2021

The Wind-Up

Snippets of what's going on in and around the Calibre world

ROLEX

THE NEXT GENERATION The trek-anywhere watch has just been improved, the Rolex way

aving just experienced a full reworking of the entire Submariner range last year, Rolex is treating us to even more changes for 2021 this time to their “trek anywhere” timepiece, the Explorer. These changes are geared to take exploration further up the highest mountain peaks and down to the most isolated polar regions, premier of which is a change in case size. Since its launch in 1953, the Explorer has sported a 36mm diameter case, and it wasn’t until 2010 that the brand updated the model to more contemporary proportions at 39mm. But unlike the new Submariner, which experienced an increase in size after a major shake up last year, the Explorer was taken in the opposite direction. And we suspect its because Rolex feels they got it right the first time. Not to mention, Rolex already has a plethora of no-date, smoothbezel, stainless steel sport watches between 39 to 41mm. The Explorer’s reduction in size back to 36mm allows it to differentiate itself from all those other models. And that’s not all. Since it’s debut, the Explorer has only been available in Oystersteel, but that all changed with two models being made available for 2021: the first in the original Oystersteel, and the

Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay climbing Mount Everest in 1953.

©Rolex/©Alfred Gregory/Royal Geographical Society

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Head lamps illuminate the path that climbers take as they move up the Khumbu Icefall above Everest base camp.

second in yellow Rolesor, a combination of Oystersteel and 18K yellow gold that opens the door to new more luxurious vistas. Both versions are highlighted by a slightly slimmer and more elegant case punctuated by a black lacquered dial, and new bluecolored Chromalight illumination that lasts longer and shines brighter on the hour markers and hands. The Explorer is guaranteed water proof down to 100 meters thanks to a middle case crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel; a caseback edged with fine fluting hermetically screwed down with a special tool; and a Twinlock winding crown fitted with a double waterproofness system. It is also fitted with an Oyster bracelet, a three-piece affair developed at the end of the 1930s known for its robustness, an Oysterlock safety clasp, which was designed and patented by Rolex

to prevent accidental opening, and with the Easylink comfort extension link, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5mm. A concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case. This new-generation Explorer is equipped with the latest of the brand’s next generation of movements, calibre 3230, which boasts a Chronergy escapement, Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers, and offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, as well as unparalleled convenience and reliability. Last but not least, the Explorer is true to its heritage by being covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification symbolized by the green seal and comes with an international five-year guarantee. ©Rolex/©National Geographic

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The Wind-Up

GRAND SEIKO

ONE HUNDRED FORTY FOR KINTARO HATTORI Grand Seiko reimagines their GMT in time for their 140th Anniversary

t’s been 140 years since Kintaro Hattori founded his distinguished watch company, and it’s saying something that the watchmaker is showcasing a quartz-powered watch to commemorate the occasion. That’s right, several decades ago Seiko almost single handedly toppled the Swiss mechanical watch industry with the “unassuming” quartz movement. This year, Grand Seiko (GS) is continuing that movement (pardon the pun) with the release of a new GS 9F86 GMT, a reimagining of the true quartz 2018 model in time for their 140th anniversary. According to the brand, this new GMT, “Adds a new dimension to the Grand Seiko Sport collection,” and based on initial reports we tend to agree. Bigger, bolder, and more muscular than the model it's based on, the new GS 9F86 GMT is the old model “toughened up” with a slightly larger and more angular case that takes the elegance of the old one to sporty new heights. That’s right, the new 40mm stainless steel case may look like it spent some time working out at the gym but that doesn’t take away from its inherent sensuality. And that has a lot to do with the “Grammar of Design” stylistic philosophy that has been a recurring theme in Grand Seiko designs, as well as the brand’s signature “Zaratsu” polishing, which stems from it. The former is the angular, faceted, and highly polished aesthetic that has come to define the look of the Japanese brand, while the latter is a kind of supreme hand finishing that produces a perfectly flat, smooth surface with no visual distortions. The new watch also benefits from a new ceramic bezel for the 24-hour GMT display that eschews the “Rolex-look” of the older

model with a steel bezel, while the screw down crown at 4 o’clock is semi recessed into the case flank eliminating the need for obtrusive crown guards. The superbly finished dial, naturally, lives up to the standards that Grand Seiko is known for. It is textured with a ridged sunburst pattern that fans out from center tempering the sporty design with a touch of class. While blunted dauphine hands and wide faceted rectangular indices showcase the brand’s polishing and brushing work. A date window that aesthetically takes the place of the hour marker at 4 o’clock complements this. Further, the two-tone dials of the new GS 9F86 GMT also uses

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two colors of LumiBrite allowing the GMT hand to stand out in blue against the green of the rest of the indications, all of which give the new GS 9F86 GMT, not just a new lease on life (not that it needed it), but puts the reimagined GMT in pride of place to commemorate Seiko’s 140th anniversary. Inside the new GS 9F86 GMT still beats the 9F86 movement. Created in 1993 as “the quartz caliber for Grand Seiko”, Caliber 9F allowed all the engineering prowess of Grand Seiko to be fully expressed while setting new durability and precision standards in the industry. Indeed, aside from various innovations that ensure daily practicality and reliability, the thermo-

April-June 2021

SBGN019

compensated quartz movement guarantees timekeeping precision of -10 to +10 seconds…. per year! This makes the Caliber 9F one of the world’s highest performing quartz movements ever made. As of this writing, three models of the new Grand Seiko 9F86 GMT will be made available starting in June 2021. The first two are from the Grand Seiko collection and comprise of SBGN019 that features splashes of vibrant red on the inner bezel and the GMT hand, and SBGN021 that features

SBGN021

SBGN023

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the same, albeit in blue, and balanced by a matching colored dial and bezel. But it’s the third flagship model that gets the spotlight. The Grand Seiko SBGN023 140th Anniversary Limited Edition gets a black dial enhanced with gold accents on the inner bezel, as well as text and GMT hand also in gold. It bolsters its limited edition status with a decorated caseback featuring the Grand Seiko emblem in 18K yellow gold, as well as the piece’s individual serial number, and is a limited edition of only 2,021 pieces.

The Wind-Up

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April-June 2021

IWC

THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS IWC releases a pilot’s watch inspired by motor racing.

uto racing is one of the world’s favourite forms of speed contests. It combines performance engineering, cutting-edge technology, and innovative materials to give its audience an adrenaline rush. All these characteristics were taken into account and used as the inspiration for IWC’s newest pilot watch: the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”. This

unique wristwatch combines IWC’s complex constant-force tourbillon with a matte black Ceratanium® case and the iconic Big Pilot’s Watch design. Powering this watch is the IWCmanufactured 94800 calibre, one of the most complicated mechanical movements ever designed in Schaffhausen. The patented constant-force mechanism disengages the escapement from the direct flow of power through the wheel train and transmits completely even impulses of energy to the escape wheel. Working in conjunction with this is the tourbillon, which compensates for the negative influences of gravity on the oscillating system. Together, they offer a highly accurate time-telling device. The movement is encased in a 46.2 millimeter case made of Ceratanium®. This IWC-developed material is light and robust like titanium but also similarly

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hard and scratch-resistant as ceramic. It is impressively finished in matte black. To match the case, the plates and bridges of the movement are fully blackened and can be viewed through the sapphire glass back. The constant-force tourbillon can be viewed at 9 o’clock on the dial. At 1 o’clock, a double moon phase display can be found, displaying the moon as can be viewed from the northern and southern hemispheres. Inspired by the world of motorsports, the yellow-coloured accents are reminiscent of automobile dashboards, while the power reserve at 4 o’clock imitate the needle of a tachometer. The black rubber strap incorporates detail from the world of racing, as it features an inlay made of Alcantara®, often used for the seats and the steering wheel of performance cars. This horological masterpiece is limited to only 15 pieces.

C OV E R WAT C H Jaeger-LeCoultre

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

INFINITY IN FOUR CHAPTERS Move over Reverso Grande Complication À Triptyque, Jaeger-LeCoultre gives us its heir apparent with the most complicated Reverso ever

KIT O. PAYUMO

T Wo rds by

he word “Hybris” originates from the Greek word “hubris,” which refers to the soaring ambition exhibited by the legendary heroes of antiquity. It is also a promise that JaegerLeCoultre has dutifully kept for the past 18 years with the creation of the Hybris Mechanica collection, a series of groundbreaking and ultra-complicated timepieces that expresses the Maison’s soaring ambition in expanding the outer limits of ultimate watchmaking. The first Hybris Mechanica timepiece was the Atmos Mystérieuse, which was launched in 2003. Since then, the Maison has expanded the Hybris Mechanica collection to encompass close to 20 groundbreaking horological creations. This includes the Master Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 1 of 2004; the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque of 2006; the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon of 2014; and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel of 2019.

But this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre made all those incredible and groundbreaking timepieces look like the costume rehearsal for a “grand oeuvre” six years in the making: the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, the next logical chapter in the Hybris Mechanica story, which punctuates 188 years of relentless innovation and “savoir-faire.” And we use the term “logical” rather loosely because the concept of the Quadriptyque is truly out-of-this-world, but one that takes advantage of the Reverso’s most inherent quality. Born in 1931, the original Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was created out of the need to protect the delicate mechanism of a mechanical wristwatch from the rigors and punishment of the game of polo. That Reverso had a single time-telling face on a mobile case that could be “flipped over” within a specially made cradle exposing a solid caseback to protect its delicate mechanical heart. Needless to say, the Reverso became an icon in design and innovation. The next generation Reverso boasted an additional dial on its previously solid caseback, either to display the same

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C OV E R WAT C H Jaeger-LeCoultre

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

time but in a different design called the Duetto, or to display a second time zone called the Duoface. The 500-piece limited edition Soixantième of 1991 was the first Reverso to feature complications. This was followed by the Reverso Tourbillon, the Reverso Répétition Minutes, Reverso Chronographe Rétrograde, Reverso Géographique, and the Reverso Quantième Perpétuel, all of which laid the groundwork of what was horologically possible within the unique, albeit limited confines of the Reverso. But it was the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque of 2006 that represented an evolutionary leap in horological innovation with a third display on the interior of the Reverso cradle itself. At the time, the Triptyque was the pinnacle of the Reverso story, but as it turns out, was merely the latest chapter to pave the way for the continuous and ongoing Reverso saga. For 2021, the duality of every Reverso is taken to its most extreme with a double-faced case continuously driven by the in-house Calibre 185 and takes an innovation first seen on the Triptyque: every day at the stroke of midnight, a pin extends out of the main case movement to activate a mechanical corrector in the cradle. This advances the displays of the double-faced cradle and is set directly into the cradle itself without any additional movement plates that would increase the thickness of the watch. And before you do a double take know that you read that right, “double-faced cradle,” making the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque not only the most complicated Reverso ever made, but also one of the most complicated watches JaegerLeCoultre has ever made, period. Indeed, this limited edition of only 18 pieces in white gold is the first wristwatch that impossibly boasts four functioning display faces (thus, the name) by incorporating a total of eleven complications including a perpetual calendar; a minute repeater; and the most comprehensive display of lunar and solar indications, including displays for the synodic, draconic, and anomalistic cycles, ever presented together in a single wearable timepiece. And you read that right again, “wearable.” Many ultracomplicated watches are often staggeringly large (we’re looking at you, Patek Philippe Caliber 89 pocket watch). But at only 51mm x 31mm x 15.15mm, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is incredibly manageable and easy to wear, especially considering the sheer number of complications the watchmakers have managed to include within its limited confines. Speaking of which…

CHAPTER ONE: INFINITY IN PERPETUITY The opening chapter of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque sees a perpetual calendar, one of the most premier complications in mechanical horology,

at the forefront of this ultra-complicated Reverso. And just like the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Gyrotourbillon 2, and the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Grande Complication à Triptyque before it, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque features the tourbillon in a significant and pivotal role. Making one full rotation every minute, the flying tourbillon continuously varies the position of the balance in order to achieve a single corrected average time measurement. As any fan of horology already knows, the balance is key to the measurement of time, and is the heart of any watch movement, which, in this case, beats at 4Hz, or 28,800vph, marking each passing second with every six beats. Every second then adds to a minute, then into hours, which become days, weeks, months, and years. Which is why the tourbillon is essential to the accuracy of the perpetual calendar, a centuries-old mechanism that unerringly displays the correct date despite the eccentricities of the Gregorian calendar. The true heart of the watch, which, in combination with the tourbillon, drives the other astronomical complications, the instantaneous perpetual calendar expresses civil time and highlights the precision of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 185, premier of which are the day and month apertures at 12 o’clock, and the leap year indicator discreetly tucked away at the 1 o’clock position. The one-minute flying tourbillon, on the other hand, doubles as the running seconds indicator and its position at 7 o’clock influenced the position of the next indication. Due to the complex construction of the Calibre 185, the grande date had to be displayed at the eccentric 5 o’clock position on the dial. Naturally, only the perfect legibility of such a display was acceptable for a timepiece such as the Quadriptyque. This necessitated the creation of a new system of date display discs in order to accommodate the dimensions of the flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. The entire dial is partially skeletonized to reveal the day, month and date wheels. And in signature Reverso fashion, the main time indication is "boxed in" a rectangular chemin de fer, or railway track, while the entire dial is elaborately filigreed in a hobnail or Clou de Paris pattern.

“The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque (is) the first wristwatch to ever display the Anomalistic cycle (of the moon) specifically, and is definitely the only watch to display the Synodic, Draconic, and Anomalistic cycles simultaneously.”

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CHAPTER TWO: INFINITY ON AIR Jaeger-LeCoultre’s extensive oeuvre in sonnerie wristwatches is well known throughout the industry. The Maison has, in fact, amassed over 200 chiming watch calibres in its historical and modern inventory. No surprise then that the Manufacture chose the “verso” face of the Quadriptyque as a virtuoso showcase of the chiming watch as done by the master Jaeger-LeCoultre. Premier to this is a visual representation of the melodious chimes. That right, for those certain individuals who require a visual confirmation of the acoustic report, a “digital” time display in a jumping-hours and peripheral-minutes format has been provided by the Manufacture. Thus, upon activating the slide lever located just above the crown, a melody of low notes for the hours; an alternating couplet of high and low notes for the quarter-hours; and a succession of high notes to indicate the number of minutes to be added to the elapsed quarters, are unleashed and can be “checked” via a secondary time display at 3 o’clock on the inner dial. This display is the highlight of the completely exposed striking works visible through apertures on the movement plate hand-decorated with Clous de Paris. Indeed, the digital jumping hours are displayed superimposed on a white minutes track, around which a smoked sapphire disc with a red pointer rotates to display the minutes. This is juxtaposed by several of the Maison’s propriety technologies to produce some of the loudest and clearest chimes, not the least of which are crystal gongs attached directly to the crystal itself, and a silent chime governor at 9 o’clock, patented by the manufacture in 1895. The former was first seen in the Master Repeater Antoine LeCoultre of 2005 and results in a clearer and louder chime, while the latter eliminates the buzzing noise created by the older anchor system. Spanning the width of the movement is an entirely mirrorpolished bridge supporting the minute repeater mechanism, while the square cross-profile of the gongs themselves maximize contact and energy transmission between the hammers and gongs and has been a mainstay of the brand’s repeater watches since 2006. Further, articulated hammers developed for the Hybris Mechanica Duomètre à Grande Sonnerie and shaped like trebuchets deliver a clean and deliberate strike

“At only 51mm x 31mm x 15.15mm, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is incredibly manageable and easy to wear, especially considering the sheer number of complications the watchmakers have managed to include within its limited confines”

to the gongs. But there is one innovation that makes its debut with the Quadriptyque that the industry has never seen before. Anyone familiar with using minute repeaters would have noticed a slight delay between the chimes of the hours and minutes. This is especially noticeable when there are no quarters to chime. For the past several years, JaegerLeCoultre has been working to reduce this delay, first with the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon of 2014; and the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel of 2019. But it wasn’t until this year that the Maison had eliminated the delays altogether with a novel piece of engineering that refines and inverts specific steps in the mechanical chiming sequence. This creates a seamless chime with no pauses between the hours, quarters and minutes.

CHAPTER THREE: INFINITY & THE COSMOS This is where the proceedings get really esoteric. The Quadriptyque's third chapter pays homage to how primitive societies observed celestial phenomena. Indeed the interaction between the movements of the Sun, Earth and Moon determined the rhythms of early life and led man to create powerful myths and stories around the dance of the heavenly orbs above. Jaeger-LeCoultre has almost two centuries of watchmaking expertise, and “has mastered all aspects of time expression from the quotidian to the esoteric.” Which is why, for the first time in the history of mechanical horology, the Manufacture has united three displays of lunar information: the synodic, draconic, and anomalistic cycles of the moon in a single wristwatch. Why, you might ask? Because they can, is the answer. And they couldn’t have made it more difficult for themselves, because they opted to do it on the cradle of the Quadriptyque, far removed from the Calibre 185. The top half of the cradle is for the synodic cycle and is dominated by a massive moon phase display. A laser engraved moon (two moons actually) is progressively covered and revealed by a mobile blue lacquered disc decorated with gold glitter to represent a star field. The length of a synodic month averages 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.8016 seconds throughout the year. This is rounded off to 29.5 days on conventional moon phase displays and accumulate one day of error after 32.5 months. In an engineering tour de force, the moon phase display of the Quadriptyque requires only one adjustment after 1,111 years. The space at the bottom left is dedicated to the draconic cycle, and features a rather cryptic degree counter made up of a three dimensional micro-sculpted pink-gold Sun at its center orbited by a tiny hemispherical Moon. Much more complicated than the simple synodic cycle, the draconic cycle shows how (and when) the moon interacts directly with the sun to produce possible eclipses on earth.

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C OV E R WAT C H Jaeger-LeCoultre

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

C OV E R WAT C H Jaeger-LeCoultre

REVERSO HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 185

The Moon orbits around the Earth in an incline with respect to the plane of the orbit of the Earth around the Sun called the ecliptic. The angle between the planes is about 5° (as shown by the degrees on the counter), meaning the Moon can pass well above or below the Sun. The points of intersection of the planes are called nodes and are the two points where the Moon’s orbit intersects with the Sun’s ecliptic plane. These North and South Nodes are shown on the counter by the traditional ancient symbols ☊ and ☋, and are known in mythology as “caput et cauda draconis,” or the Head and Tail of the Dragon, which gives us the name of the indication. The typical draconic month lasts approximately 27 days, 5 hours, 5 minutes, and 35.8 seconds, while the nodes moving along the ecliptic from east to west as seen from Earth completes a revolution in 18.6 years. The domed representation of the Earth, micro-painted in enamel with a hemispherical moon in eccentric orbit around it, is the Anomalistic cycle and is found at the lower right half of the front of the cradle. This shows how far the Moon is from the Earth at any given time, and displays the apogee, the furthest point the Moon is from the Earth, and the perigee, the point at which it is nearest. It is at this closest point that the event known as the super moon occurs, and when the Moon can appear to be as much as 14 percent larger than usual in the sky. This makes the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque the first wristwatch to ever display the Anomalistic cycle specifically, and is definitely the only watch to display the Synodic, Draconic, and Anomalistic cycles simultaneously.

CHAPTER FOUR: INFINITY LA LUNA This leads us to the final chapter of the calibre 185. The exterior face of the cradle (or what is most commonly known on most “regular” watches as the “caseback”) is the final representation of the moon, and the fourth chapter of the Quadriptyque’s “Infinity” story. Specifically: the phases of the moon as seen from the Southern Hemisphere. Indeed, most moon phase indications show the moon as seen from the Northern Hemisphere but Jaeger-LeCoultre has taken the indication a step further by once again taking advantage of the Reverso’s inherent dualism. Thus, a star-flecked sky chart, engraved and lacquered in a gradient of blue shades forms the backdrop of the pink-gold moon, all of which were created in the Atelier des Métiers Rares of Jaeger-LeCoultre. And even if it presents the most minimal amount of information of all four faces of the Quadriptyque it doesn’t take away from its finishing touches to close out the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque. This exceptional timepiece is matched with a blue alligator leather strap, and comes in an exceptional presentation box with a built-in mechanism that allows the wearer to quickly and intuitively set all the calendar and astronomical displays of the watch. And did we mention the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque was made to commemorate the 90th anniversary of the Reverso? We wait with bated breath for the 100th anniversary.

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Features April-June 2021

Every issue, we try to bring the timepieces that we've seen at the shows and in different events we've attended both locally and overseas. These are the pieces that have caught our fancy and we hope they catch yours as well.

Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P page 44

BERT E. CASAL

Words by

T W O U LT R A -T H I N W AT C H E S I N W H I T E G O L D

The Classic Overseas

April-June 2021

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Feature

Vacheron Constantin

THE OVERSEAS COLLECTION WAS FIRST INTRODUCED TO THE MARKET IN 1996. It was

aimed at answering the needs of global travellers for a watch that was casual yet elegant. It was built around a tonneau-shaped case that measured 37 mm and had a fluted bezel that is reminiscent of a Maltese cross. It also carried an integrated bracelet with geometric links. The second version of the Overseas came out in 2004 with a more modern design, notable on the metal bracelet that featured a half Maltese cross motif. This second generation measured 42 mm in diameter and had a soft iron antimagnetic screen to give the movement protection. Two years later, a dual time Overseas was added to the collection. It featured a second time zone, power reserve, day/night and date indications. And in 2007, a leather strap was introduced to the line.

“A timeless design that flaunts its technical complexity with elegance and distinction.”

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In 2016, the Overseas collection was reinvented with a view to exploring new horizons. A new aesthetic signature and new calibres were unveiled. One of the most recent embodiments of this approach was the perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton model introduced in 2020 in a pink gold version. That timepiece was awarded a prize by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that year. This year, at Watches and Wonders 2021, Vacheron Constantin presented two Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches in white gold cases that measure 41.5 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm thick. These timepieces demonstrate an equally admirable ability to adapt to the demands of modern life with their interchangeable bracelet/ straps in white gold, blue alligator leather, and blue rubber. All are fitted with an 18K white gold pin buckle and an ingenious device that enables tool-free changes in just seconds.

April-June 2021

OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN This timepiece flaunts its technical complexity with all the inherent elegance and distinction of the collection. This model, with its timeless design, is instantly recognisable with its hexagonal bezel reminiscent of a Maltese cross, a fluted crown, polished and satin-brushed finishes, a translucent lacquered dial with facetted and luminescent gold hour markers and hands. Its blue lacquered dial with a sunburst satin finish features an aura of relaxed elegance, displaying the hours, minutes, perpetual calendar indications (the day of the week, date, month, and leap year by 48-month counter) and moon phases. This watch is driven by the Calibre 1120 QP/1, an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement that measures 4.05 mm thick, beating at a frequency of 2.75 Hz and endowed with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Its perpetual calendar will require no correction until the year 2100. Achieving such a performance in such a thin movement solidifies the prowess of Vacheron Constantin both in miniaturisation and construction. The movement is further enhanced by multiple finishings, hand-crafted in accordance with Haute Horlogerie traditions: Cótes de Genève striped motif, straight-graining, chamfering and circular graining. The case back shows a 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with a compass rose symbolising the spirit of travel and exploration.

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Feature

Vacheron Constantin

OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN SKELETON This 41.5 mm watch proudly displays the Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. All the components have been hollowed out, finished, and decorated in such a way as to accentuate the functional beauty of the mechanism. The NAC-coated oscillating weight, with its 22K gold segment, has also been open worked to highlight its stylised design inspired by the shape of the Maltese cross. The finishing work is meticulous from the straight-graining of the surfaces and the curves to circular brushing, sunburst finishing, circular graining and polishing (to vary the depth effects). Creating a skeleton watch while ensuring its legibility and reliability is an integral part of the Maison’s expertise. Even more so with this watch, as it has a perpetual calendar. With 276 components, the viewer’s gaze is naturally drawn to the intricate inner workings of the movement. You can read the time on the applied 18K white gold hour markers, as well as the day of the week, date, and month indications on the dial counters. Just like its blue-dial counterpart, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton watch will not require intervention until the year 2100. The Overseas collection proudly presents these two new timepieces, now in white gold. One features a deep blue dial while the other is presented with the movement fully exposed. Two watches, each with very different types of aesthetic appeal. Both timepieces come with three interchangeable bracelet/straps to cater to the wearer’s mood, style, or whim.

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April-June 2021

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Feature

À L’AMÉRICAINE

Patek Philippe

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April-June 2021

Patek Philippe releases a quantième perpétuel in the American style Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO PATEK PHILIPPE IS BACK WITH A BONAFIDE “FIRST” FOR THE MANUFACTURE: A PERPETUAL CALENDAR THAT HAS ITS ORIGINS FROM A TIMEPIECE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE AMERICAN MARKET. No. P-1450, dubbed “à l’américaine,” was a 1972 pocket watch that was crafted in the “American style” for customers who liked their complicated watches easy to operate. Presently on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, à l’américaine is exceptional for an in-line calendar display (month, date, day) that showed its perpetual calendar indications at a glance. The new Ref. 5236P-001 In-line Perpetual Calendar is the inevitable wristwatch version of that. Indeed, if there is one thing Patek Philippe is famous for (other than the Calatrava) it’s

The "panoramic" in-line display of the perpetual calendar below: a bonafide first in a Patek Philippe wristwatch.

their vast collection of calendar watches, most especially those of the perpetual variety. This year, Patek Philippe has deigned to add yet another face into that proud calendar watch heritage with the Ref. 5236P-001 In-line Perpetual Calendar, the first wristwatch from the Manufacture to present its day, date and month in a “panoramic” and elongated window at 12 o’clock. And as we’ve mentioned above, this isn’t the first time the Manufacture has produced an in-line perpetual calendar, but No. P-1450 had a particular pocket watch advantage that the new 41.3mm wristwatch does not: size. And that’s not all. No. P-1450 achieved its in-line display using only three discs: day of the week, date, and month. But that was because of the copious amount of real estate on a pocket watch dial. The use of a three-disc-system for a 41.3mm wristwatch, however, presented additional challenges, not the least of which is that the double digit dates would’ve been too small to be legible. The solution the Patek Philippe watchmakers came up with is unique: two sets of double discs for a total of four discs, one for the day, two for the date, and one for the month, all of which lie on a single plane. Indeed, producing a perpetual calendar already comes with a significant number of challenges. The first being a rather high parts count, and the second being a high-energy requirement to move all those parts. Now imagine having to produce all that in a single line. This will significantly add to the number of parts of the first challenge, and add additional energy requirements to the second. Now compound those problems by designing the same in a 41.3mm wristwatch that has to remain within a specific degree of slimness, all while incorporating an automatic winding system, and only then does the enormity of it all start to become clear.

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And that had a lot to do with the Patek Philippe Seal: whatever mechanical ensemble the engineers created had to be implemented within the smallest possible diameter, and the lowest possible height without compromising the movement’s long-term integrity. This is why the watchmakers turned to the Caliber 31-260 REG QA launched in 2011 with the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator, an extremely slender movement equipped with an eccentric recessed 22K gold minirotor. The result is the calibre 31-260 PS QL with PS standing for “petite seconde” (subsidiary seconds), and QL for “quantième perpétuel en ligne“ (in-line perpetual calendar). Astoundingly (and we cannot emphasize this enough), the new movement retains

the overall height and diameter of the basic calibre: 31.74 x 2.60 mm (hence the designation 31-260). Designed as a separate module with its own plate, the calendar mechanism is integrated into the basic movement via an intermediate wheel that engages with the hour-wheel pinion that controls the minute hand. This second minute wheel is suspended between two jewels and meshes with a 24-hour wheel to guarantee optimized efficiency. The in-line calendar mechanism alone is comprised of 118 additional parts compared to conventional perpetual calendar displays. This includes several bridges and wheels with jewel bearings to reduce energy consumption, particularly of the two date discs. Further, the four-discs-on-one-plane-without-

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any-overlap configuration presented a slew of additional problems, the solutions of which are covered by three patent applications. The first is for a display system composed of two coplanar double ball bearings to ensure that friction induced energy losses are reduced to a minimum. The second, for an “anti-double-jump” feature for the units disc to prevent disc bounce in the event of a jolt or when a date correction is being performed. And a third patent for the 31-point date star from which two teeth were removed to immobilize the units disc during the transition from the 31st day to the 1st day of the next month. When this occurs, the ones (units) disc must remain in place while the tens disc switches back to zero.

April-June 2021

The movement was also “tuned” to feed the particularly energy-mad perpetual calendar mechanism. Torque, for example, was increased by 20%, while a minirotor made of platinum enhanced winding power. 11% denser than pure gold, platinum has more mass than the 22K gold normally used for Patek Philippe minirotors. Rate stability was also improved by increasing the frequency from 3.2 to 4 Hz (28,800 semioscillations per hour). This also simplifies precision adjustments to the rate tolerance specified by the Patek Philippe Seal. Moreover,

the new movement was also fitted with another Patek Philippe invention patented in 2019: a reduction wheel that uncouples the automatic winder as soon as the movement is being manually wound to reduce wear. The aesthetic appeal of the familiar 31-260 REG QA movement was tweaked, as well, with two distinctive bridges for the escapement and the fourth wheel for the new caliber 31-260 PS QL. This configuration may have added yet another degree of difficulty to the work of the engineers but was worth it for a better view of the basic

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movement’s wheel train, overall architecture, and refined finissage. The movement, by the way, features some of the absolutely best Patek Philippe finissage, and is precisely what we have come to expect from their best calendar watches. Exacting and detailed without being obsessive, and always tasteful without ever being ostentatious. In other words: perfect in all ways Patek. All of which can be viewed through the sapphire-crystal caseback, which can be substituted with a solid platinum back that comes with the watch. Once again inspired by the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator, the clean and uncluttered dial layout of the Ref. 5236P-001 In-line Perpetual Calendar is a glorious study of organization and efficiency. Complementing the in-line calendar displays at 12 o’clock are two small round apertures, one at 4 o’clock for the leap year cycle, and another at 8 for the day/night indicator. This is a useful piece of information to have when the calendar is set. The moon phase, on the other hand, is an essential element of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, and is found nestled within the subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. All of these displays are adjusted by four correctors recessed in the case flank: the month at 2 o’clock; moon phase at 8 o’clock; day of the week at 9 o’clock; and date at 10 o’clock. Speaking of which, the design of the very sleek 950 platinum case is entirely contemporary, and can be traced as far back as Ref. 3448, a Patek perpetual calendar that made its debut in 1962, and produced until 1981. It features a signature of Patek Philippe platinum watches: a small diamond at 6 o’clock of the case flank; a chamfered bezel, the line of which extends down to the angled lugs; a diameter of 41.3mm; and polishing of a such a high degree that could only have been executed by hand according to venerable Patek Philippe traditions. The gleam of the platinum is perfectly contrasted by a blue dial with a vertical satin finish and a black gradient effect at its periphery. This is further contrasted by applied hour markers and baton hands in white gold; an in-line calendar display legibly printed in blue on white; as well as the technical aspect of the railway minute track perfectly echoed by the subsidiary seconds scale at 6 o’clock. Last but not least is a handsome navy blue alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp that puts the perfect finishing touch to the new Ref. 5236P-001 In-line Perpetual Calendar, Patek Philippe’s latest grand complication done “à l’américaine.”

Feature

A. Lange & Söhne

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April-June 2021

MOONLIGHT SONATA A. La ng e & S öhne is f ascinate d by a starry mo o n lit n i g ht Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO

Feature

A. Lange & Söhne

WE HAVE TO ADMIT THERE REALLY IS SOMETHING FASCINATING ABOUT THE MOON. For centuries,

many different cultures have worshipped it and have set theirs lives to its cycle. And for the longest time man has simply looked up and found comfort in its soothing presence. Which is probably why the moon phase complication has become a kind of “left field” favorite among collectors, and is considered to be one of the most “poetic” complications in horology. Saxon watchmaker, A. Lange & Söhne, has taken this fascination to the next level by taking the “littlest” version of their eternal signature watch to express their love for a moonlit sky. And it’s no surprise that they chose the LITTLE LANGE 1 to express this with. The moon and romance, after all, have forever been intertwined with each other, so what better way to express this love with their signature ladies’ watch.

The fascination of a bright moonlit night is, thus, the motif of the new LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE, the German brand’s latest moonlight serenade that takes the solid silver dial of the LITTLE LANGE 1 and coats it with the eye catching shimmer of dark-blue “Gold Flux,” the sparkling copper particles of which evoke a starry nocturnal sky. The German watchmaker’s version of “aventurine” or “aventurine glass,” gold flux is a glassy medium infused with copper particles that mimic the color and shimmer of a starry night sky and is implemented here not just for beauty’s sake but to better embody the theme of this astronomically oriented watch. We’ve seen this material before in the alluring Saxonia Thin model with a blue flux dial, as well as tinted in black in the Saxonia Thin Black Gold Flux released in December of last year. Indeed, this

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shimmering glassy medium combined with the brand’s adherence to the golden ratio for the proportions and arrangement of the elements of the LANGE 1 has resulted in one of the most beautiful LANGE 1 dials yet. This astronomical theme is bolstered even further by the other elements of the dial not the least of which are the star-shaped hour markers between the applied Roman numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock on the main time subdial, all of which are crafted from rhodiumed gold just like the hands. The dark hue of the dial is further echoed by white on blue outsize date, the smaller subsidiary seconds subdial, as well as the moon phase indicator within it, the white gold lunar disc of which features an additional 628 stars. And before this “novelty” is dismissed as “just” another dial material “update,” consider that even if this moon phase model is technically

April-June 2021

similar to its siblings this latest LITTLE LANGE 1 is the latest iteration of a plan to update the brand’s so-called “small complications,” which has been percolating at Lange for many years. A prime example of which is expressed by the calibre L121.2, based on the L121.1, which replaced the L901.0 as the standard Lange 1 movement back in 2015. One of the new-generation of Lange movements, calibre L121.2 features the brand’s latest moon-phase complication, which is accurate to up to 122.6 years and only after “this short eternity” will the moon phase require adjustment (assuming someone is around that long to keep the watch energized.) Otherwise, the corrector between 7 and 8 o’clock allows the display to be updated quickly and easily. This echoes the corrector recessed in the case between 10 and 11 o’clock for the outsize date.

The calibre L121.2 above, based on the L121.1, which replaced the L901.0 as the standard Lange 1 movement back in 2015.

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The hand wound Calibre L121.2 is made up of 411 movement parts including 44 jewels, 8 screwed gold chatons, a lever escapement, and a twin mainspring barrel that delivers a 3-day power reserve. Best of all, the movement features the best in masterful Saxon artistry including the three-quarter plate in German silver decorated with Glashütte ribbing, the hand-engraved balance cock, and the gold chatons secured with cornflower-blue steel screws, all of which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. Indeed, with its configuration of an offcentered main dial, the outsize date, the powerreserve indicator, the twin mainspring barrel, and the three-day movement, the A. Lange & Söhne LITTLE LANGE 1 MOON PHASE has all the technical features of its larger sibling, the LANGE 1, the signature timepiece and best known face of the Saxon manufactory.

Feature Cartier

FREEDOM 52 www.calibremagazine.com

April-June 2021

Wo rd s b y

CREATE 53 www.calibremagazine.com

KATHERINE S. CUNANAN

BEAUT Y

FREEDOM, BY DEFINITION, IS THE POWER OR RIGHT TO ACT, SPEAK, OR THINK AS ONE WANTS WITHOUT HINDRANCE OR ANY RESTRAINT. It is the ability to do what you want with no holding back. People crave freedom, countries espouse it, and the youth idealize it. But to get to the point of true freedom doesn’t just happen. You need to work hard for it and sometimes you have to earn it. Freedom to do what you want, when you want: what a feeling that must be. The Cartier Libre collection epitomizes that freedom because, let’s face it, Cartier has definitely earned the right to do what they want with their designs, and believe me, we are happy that they exercise that artistic and creative freedom. The Libre collection allows Cartier to rethink their most iconic watches and reinvent them in a fresh new way. As Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage at Cartier, explains, “This collection, a balance between measure and excess, cannot be categorised. Hence its name: Cartier Libre.” The Cartier Libre collection began as a way to re-introduce previous favorites, but with a new touch. This third exploration of the Libre has the creative minds of Cartier taking their signature shapes and combining them with animals from the Maison’s menagerie. The result is pure genius, and as you’ll see, Cartier has taken the freedom to do what they do best. Their meticulous designs have been partnered with exquisite jewels, making their creations that much more elegant and extravagant. And to paraphrase a friendly superhero, with freedom comes responsibility. Cartier has long been committed to guarantee responsible procurement of the precious gemstones they use in their creations. Cartier co-founded the Responsible Jewellery Council and they collaborate within the industry and with governments to abide by responsible practices. Taking things a step further, Cartier helped create the Coloured Gemstones Working Group to improve the sourcing and track the provenance of the oh-so-beautiful gemstones they use in their creations.

BAIGNOIRE/TORTUE The Baignoire watch is a cult object, dating back to 1912. Louis Cartier looked at the typical round watch shape and decided he wanted more — a simple stretch of the shape and suddenly, we have the iconic baignoire. Since then the watch has earned its place as an icon in the Cartier designs, and the most sought-after models are so deliciously bejeweled. The Baignoire watch in the Libre collection reinterprets the precious shape as a gentle, but bejeweled, turtle. A turtle is seen as a symbol for

peacefulness, longevity, and patience. And that intricate shell allows for creative interpretation. “Because Cartier is above all a jeweller, our creations transcend all categories. They are not just instruments for telling the time, nor are they simply jewellery. They are a third type of object with their own uniqueness. Cartier watches only resemble themselves.” Marie-Laure Cérède, Director of Design for Watchmaking at Cartier. The Cartier artisans suggest the gentle shell on the dial of this watch, using the contrast of buff-top stones and diamond paving. The anthracite and black lines provide the structure, if you will, for the diamond segments that make up the shell. The dial itself may seem simple, albeit in diamonds, but the sapphires add a bit of color and detail. The navy blue alligator strap picks up the sapphire color from the dial and blue hands. Completing the tortoise shell design are the tsavorites that line the rhodium-finish white gold case.

TORTUE/SERPENT The Cartier Tortue watch is another iconic design from the Maison. The initial Tortue watch was released in the 1912 and easily gained popularity possibly due to its elegant simplicity. Through the years it has expanded from its time-only function and has since added complications. The Tortue/ Serpent watch has a mechanical movement with manual winding. Yes, ‘tortue’ can mean either tortoise or turtle, but Cartier did not simply amplify the ‘turtle-

“CREATIONS TRANSCEND ALL CATEGORIES” ness’ of the watch shape by adding a turtle design. That would have been too easy, too expected, and not at all a Cartier move. We expect excellence, but not the mundane. Cartier delivers once again. Cartier chose to add the serpent’s touch to the turtle shape, and the result is simply inspired. Again, freedom earned through decades of hard work and excellence. The serpent is implied on this watch with sleek scales in a variety of colors and materials. The gentle curves slide across the dial and rhodium-finished white gold case with ease, and the combination of black or coral-colored

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enamel, water-toned mother-of-pearl, closed-set diamonds, and polished white gold result in an elegant timepiece. Choosing which scale to create in which material must have given the artisan of Cartier such joy — the resulting design seems to undulate with life.

BAIGNOIRE/TORTUE, TORTUE/SERPENT Both of the Cartier Libre watches here are in limited editions of 30 individually numbered pieces. The designs are iconic and elegant, just what you expect from the Maison.

Feature

Richard Mille

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When the going gets tough, Richard Mille gets going Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO

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Feature

Richard Mille

THAT’S RIGHT, RICHARD MILLE IS BACK, AND IS IT ANY SURPRISE THAT HE’S UP TO HIS OLD TRICKS? BUT TRUTH BE TOLD WHAT AMAZING TRICKS THEY ARE, THE LATEST EXAMPLE OF WHICH IS THE TECHNOLOGICALLY ADVANCED RICHARD MILLE RM 21-01 TOURBILLON AERODYNE, A RATHER MAD WATCH WITH A TRULY MAD PRICE TAG (USD820,000.00).

Getting its name from the use of aerospace materials, the RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne is the latest beneficiary of Richard Mille’s compulsive obsession with using the world’s most advanced materials and technologies. As the watchmaker himself says, “The superlative quality of a Richard Mille watch is in equal measure the architecture and materials it is made of.” Indeed, Richard Mille (RM) constantly espouses that the precision, lightness, and reliability of their pieces are intimately bound to the materials the watches are made of.

This is probably why the new RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne is yet another RM signature timepiece like no other. Its case, which may be the familiar Richard Mille shape, is actually a new design that clocks in at 42.68 x 50.12 x 14.30mm, and is a complex structure of red gold sandwiched within an exoskeleton made of Carbon TPT. Used for the bezel and the pillars, this extremely light and durable composite was originally developed for the sails of racing yachts and subsequently used for F1 car chassis and in aeronautics. Indeed, it has quickly become another Richard Mille signature material. Striking in its appearance, Carbon TPT is a highly technical material made of 600 layers of parallel filaments obtained by separating out carbon fibers. No more than 30 microns thick, each layer is stacked in an automated process that rotates each layer by 45° then heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars in an autoclave before being

machined to the nearest micron. This results in the striking “striped” appearance of random damascene patterns unique to each watch. And held firmly in place by 20 spline screws (another RM signature), this “suit of armor” plays off the gleam of the red gold precious metal and the royal blue honeycombed motif baseplate of the RM 2101 Tourbillon Aerodyne perfectly. Speaking of which, the manual-winding Calibre RM21-01 is no slouch either. It is finished with a PVD treatment in 5N red gold to enhance the contrasts created by the case. Its baseplate is constructed with a Carbon TPT base combined with an orthorhombic honeycomb structure made of HAYNES 214. A first for the brand, the structure was treated with blue PVD to embody the concept of air itself. Best of all, this nickel-chromium-aluminum-iron alloy can withstand temperatures of up to 995°C! Why, you might ask? Why not, is the answer! People who can readily afford a watch of this type normally expose their watches to these levels of temperatures, after all. But whatever the watchmakers intentions, rest assured that the RM21-01’s baseplate was constructed to offer unsurpassed stiffness, an extremely low thermal expansion coefficient, and exceptional torque resistance. It also allows the grade 5 titanium and gold of the bridges, tourbillon and barrel of the movement to shine through. These are seated in the central crucible of the plate allowing for the rotation of these moving parts Aside from timekeeping duties, the Calibre RM21-01 also boasts a host of highly engineered features not usually found anywhere else. Premier of which is a torque indicator at 1 o’clock, which indicates the tension of the barrel spring, thus optimizing the movement’s timing. Then there’s the mono-pusher function selector integrated into the center of the crown. Engineered like a car’s gearbox, the selector is crafted once again in Carbon TPT and 5N red gold, and allows for the simple selection of Neutral (N), Winding (W), and Hand-setting (H), as indicated at 4 o’clock on the dial, with a single press. A free-sprung balance with variable inertia is also featured, which offers greater reliability in the event of shocks and guarantees better chronometric results over time. All these have resulted in a spectacularly engineered, and spectacular looking RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne, another spectacular Richard Mille timepiece limited to only 50 pieces.

April-June 2021

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Feature Bvlgari

La Dolce Vita, Bellisima 60 www.calibremagazine.com

April-June 2021

B V L G A R I

M A K E S Wo rd s b y

L I F E

M O R E

KATHERINE S. CUNANAN

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B E A U T I F U L

Feature Bvlgari

BVLGARI BRINGS US BEAUTY AND BRILLIANCE IN FOUR NEW COCKTAIL WATCHES FOR THE LADIES — THE DIVISSIMA AND ALLEGRA COCKTAIL WATCHES.

Cocktail parties were meant to be the precursor to the main event. Guests could talk with family and friends before the formal event actually began. It was a lighter, less rigid time, often full of stories and laughter. And of course, guests were dressed to the nines in the latest couture and the most dazzling of jewels. And no one does jewellery and gemstones quite like the House of Bvlgari. The Italian jeweler has glamour built in their DNA, and their creations are always breathtaking. Bvlgari has always gone beyond expectations and tried new things. Remember the ROMA watch with the city’s name on bold display on the bezel? And who can forget the dazzling jewels that are fit for royalty? Their classic designs are easily reinterpreted into more modern and contemporary pieces. The colors are vibrant, the spirit is electric. Let’s take a closer look at the Bvlgari Watches Color Treasures in this beautiful life. La Dolce Vita is evident in these timepieces that are feminine and vivacious. They can be a talisman, giving you that extra push to live life to the fullest and make each moment count. The gentle shapes and dazzling gemstones are perfectly brought together in designs that are dynamic and lively. Each watch here has a Bvlgari-personalized high-precision quartz movement.

DIVISSIMA Take the Divas’ Dream Collection, for example. The Bvlgari Divas’ Dream Collection from 2017 was a fabulous creation from the master jewelers. The pieces were inspired by the elegance and beauty of Rome, with each one a deliberate work of art. Only the best gemstones in the most intricate designs were used for the Divas’ Dream Collection — necklaces, earrings, bracelet, timepieces. These Divas’ Dream Divissima watches come in a 33mm case size, a tad smaller than the initial watches in the previous launch, but are no less opulent. There are two watch models to choose from, and really, it will be hard to pick just one of them. The Divas’ Dream Divissima Emeralds (ref. no. 103505) has a white gold case set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. Definitely beautiful. But what really takes your breath away are the diamond-covered petals and the 8 emeralds that surround the bezel. One signature design feature from the initial collection that makes a reappearance in the Divissima watches is the fan-shaped motif, this time seen in the petals. Scientifically speaking, emeralds are a chromiumrich variety of beryl. But in other terms, emeralds

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April-June 2021

signify unconditional compassion and acceptance. They also represent growth and balance. The green hands on the mother-of-pearl dial and the green alligator strap are an added touch of vibrance on this watch. If you prefer an expanse of diamonds though (and who wouldn’t love that?), then the Divas’ Dream Divissima Diamonds (ref. no. 103474) is for you — it features the same white gold case with the elegant yet playful petal and gemstone design, but this time (no pun intended), it is diamonds all the way. Diamonds signify purity and perfection, and they are considered the stone of commitment and faithfulness. The black alligator strap gives subtle support to the sparkling diamonds on this watch.

cut diamonds, and adding the punch are the colorful citrines, rhodolites, blue topazes, a peridot, and an amethyst. The mother-of-pearl dial has 12 diamond indexes for hour markers (that additional 3mm in size comes in handy). The alligator strap is a deep and mysterious dark blue color, the perfect foil for the colorful gems and diamonds. The Allegra Pink Gold (ref. no. 103493) has an 18kt rose gold case set with 82 brilliant-cut diamonds, and adding the punch are the colorful citrines, amethysts, blue topazes, a peridot,

and a rhodolite. The mother-of-pearl dial has 12 diamond indexes for hour markers too. The alligator strap is a gentle taupe color, allowing the gems to take centerstage.

BELLISIMA Bvlgari has done it again, they’ve given us a collection of watches that is beautiful and vibrant. And the watches are so vivacious that you would wear them anywhere, not just to cocktail parties. Life is even more beautiful with a Bvlgari masterpiece on your wrist.

ALLEGRA The Bvlgari Allegra watches can hold their own against the Divissima watches, but the Allegras are slightly more bold and playful, thanks to the interplay of colors from the gold cases and colored gemstones. Some gemstones have been cut with facets, while others are in the cabochon style. A faceted gemstone allows for more refraction of light through the stone itself, thus enhancing the stone’s brilliance and creating more sparkle. A cabochon cut, on the other hand, provides a smooth polished upper surface and a flat bottom for the gem. The polishing enhances the gemstone’s color and texture. This difference in how the gemstones are treated adds a layer of sophistication to the watches. Each watch model has a different mix of gems, so it makes choosing one model a little more interesting. The Allegra White Gold (ref. no. 103499) has a white gold case set with 82 brilliant-

“THE DIFFERENCE IN HOW GEMSTONES ARE TREATED ADDS A LAYER OF SOPHISTICATION”

Feature Rolex

Created for the Boldest Explorers Rolex introduces its new generation Oyster Perpetual Explorer II presented in Oystersteel.

Words by

BERT E. CASAL

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Feature Rolex

THE MOST COMMON STAINLESS STEEL USED IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY IS 316L STEEL. It

contains chromium, nickel and molybdenum. Molybdenum is added to help resist corrosion to chlorines like sea water. 904L steel is a low carbon, high nickel, molybdenum steel. It has excellent corrosion resistance, acetic acid, formic acid, phosphoric acid, and has good resistance to crevice corrosion. Their excellent corrosion resistant properties are comparable to those of precious metals. It also acquires an exceptional sheen when polished. 904L steels are commonly used in hightechnology and in the aerospace and chemical industries. Rolex’s Oystersteel belongs to the 904L steel family. With explorers in mind, Rolex creates the Explorer II in Oystersteel. Rolex has had a long relationship with exploration. Presented in 1971, this robust and reliable watch quickly became an essential tool for explorers travelling to the far corners of the globe, often in extreme conditions. The Explorer II has a 24-hour display

comprising an additional orange hour hand and an engraved bezel. This allows the wearer to clearly distinguish daytime from night time hours. This function is particularly useful in areas where it is difficult, or even impossible, to distinguish between day and night, such as underground or in polar regions which experience six months of daylight and six months of darkness a year. The display enables the watch to serve as a compass. The 24-hour display can also be used to show a second time zone. On the white lacquer dial, the hour markers — whose black coating is applied using PVD — and the black lacquer hour, minute and seconds hands stand out with their matte finish. The 24-hour hand retains the characteristic orange hue, which is the same color as the Explorer II inscription that has featured on the dial since 2011. The new generation Explorer II also benefits from an optimised Chromalight display. In dark conditions, the intensity of the blue glow emitted by the hour markers and hands now lasts longer, thanks to the innovative and exclusive

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luminescent material with which they are filled or coated. In daylight, these display elements also have a brighter white hue. This timepiece is equipped with calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. This movement is entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and is fitted on this model from 2021. This self-winding mechanical movement offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Calibre 3285 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring that is 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and patented high-

April-June 2021

performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. This movement carries a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops have successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria. These certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is at -2/+2 seconds per day, a rate that is significantly more accurate than the standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for official certification of the movement alone, prior to casing. The 42 mm Oyster case is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 meters. Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel. The case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. The new generation Explorer II is fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet is known for its robustness. The Oyster bracelet on this new watch features the Rolex-designed and patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It is also equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case. The Oyster Perpetual Explorer II is the ultimate tool watch for explorers. It is bold. It is robust. It is precise. It is legible. It’s a Rolex.

“The new generation Explorer II takes us from deep, dark caverns to the isolated polar regions.” 67 www.calibremagazine.com

Feature Tudor

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BACK IN 2012, THE TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY WAS “RE-ISSUED” BY TUDOR IN AN APPEALING VERSION WITH WARM COLORS. Indeed, its burgundy bezel, pink gold hands and hour markers, and warm black-chocolate dial with rose gold details appealed to collectors interested in vintage TUDORs so much that it was awarded the “Revival” category prize in the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Not surprisingly, the Black Bay line has become one of the most successful collections of TUDOR, so much so that in the intervening years the diver’s watch has spawned many models and iterations in its extensive model line up. Not

the least of which is what TUDOR itself calls a “hybrid” version. It’s already a well-known fact that TUDOR has been constantly improving its professional diver’s watches since 1954. This coincided with the launch of the first TUDOR chronograph, the Oysterdate model in 1970, which instantly thrust the brand into the closely-knit world of motor sport. Now a specialist in both disciplines, it was no surprise that in 2017, TUDOR took their popular Black Bay diver’s watch to its next evolutionary step with a “hybrid” version that dared to combine its aquatic heritage with the established “king” of racetrack monitoring equipment: the chronograph.

ETERNAL BAYHEM Tudor brings back the timeless spirit of earth and sea Words by

KIT O. PAYUMO

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This resulted in the excellent TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Chrono, a timepiece that not only successfully merged the Black Bay’s well-established aquatic aesthetic with the world of motor racing, but also introduced the Black Bay family to its first self-winding manufacture chronograph movement. This year, the Black Bay Chrono is back! And to mark 50 years of TUDOR chronographs, the brand is relaunching its popular chronograph model with a reworked case and two dial options with contrasting “panda” style sub-dials. It’s probably around this point that a lot of “non-traditional” (cynical?) watch “lovers” will probably be asking, “Exactly how many colors and variations can one watchmaker come up with for the same watch?” Well, quite a number apparently (we’re looking at you, Royal Oak), and we’re thankful to TUDOR for doing so. Indeed, as far as we’re concerned, the new Black Bay Chrono, not only strengthens TUDOR’s standing as a modern world-class tool-watch maker, but also strengthens their core identity as an unwaveringly traditional brand that

Feature Tudor

historically supplied the military with unfaltering tool watches. This latest iteration of the Black Bay’s “hybrid” chronograph is simply another affirmation of that. But to be fair to the non-traditionalists, this latest version is far from an “all-new” watch, and putting aesthetic considerations aside is basically the same TUDOR Heritage Black Bay Chrono that made a splash back in 2017. This means this newest chronograph remains ever so faithful to the patented Black Bay aesthetic, and makes its debut with pushers inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs; as well as the famous but controversial Snowflake hands on its domed dial. A brand signature for diver’s watches since 1969, it’s become controversial on the Chrono because of the way the large “snowflake” partially obscures the 45-minute totalizer. Which as far as we’re concerned is a non-issue since many other chronographs suffer the same “affliction.” Re-jiggered for 2020, the new Black Bay Chrono comes with an overall shape courtesy of the first TUDOR divers’ watches, but enhanced with the slimmer and modified proportions of 2019’s Black Bay Chrono Steel & Gold for better wearability. And to ensure optimum readability, two “panda” style dials in matte black or opaline now make their mark, both of which incorporate two hollowed sub-counters in contrasting colors: matte black for the “panda” opaline dial, and opaline for the reverse panda matte black dial. Also modified is the fixed bezel, which is no longer in brushed stainless steel but forged in black anodized aluminum with a contrasting tachymeter scale in silver to better enhance the panda-style dials. True, the presence of a tachymeter scale on a diving watch may be offputting to some but is a design consideration we feel is perfectly in tune with this chronometer’s “alternative” diving/motor sport vocation. As mentioned above, the new chronograph’s case is also slimmer coming in at 14.4mm compared to the original 2017 model’s 14.9mm, and comes courtesy of a refinement of the case design, as well as the repositioning of the movement. And while this might translate to “only” half a millimeter in reduction, at nearly 50mm lug-to-lug, this decrease is a boon for anyone intending to wear long sleeves with a notexactly-small watch that also happens to feature a highly domed sapphire crystal. This has resulted in a fairly large(ish) watch that feels surprisingly ergonomic on the wrist. Further, water resistance is still rated at 200 meters, the bare minimum for serious diver’s

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“To mark 50 years of TUDOR chronographs, the brand is relaunching its popular chronograph model with a reworked case and two dial options with contrasting “panda” style sub-dials” watches although more than sufficient for everyday use, and is achieved with the help of a screw-down crown and pushers, as well as a solid stainless steel caseback. Inside the new Black Bay Chrono still ticks the Calibre MT5813, which takes off from Breitling’s flagship chronograph movement, the B01, and is thus chronometer-certified by the COSC. The result of the well-publicized collaboration between the two brands, which pool their expertise in the design and production of curated mechanical movements, the Calibre MT5813 is a high-performance chronograph movement crafted in the purest watchmaking traditions. And in keeping with TUDOR’s philosophy of quality, represents extraordinary robustness and reliability as guaranteed by the same criteria of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.

Best of all, the TUDOR Black Bay Chrono comes in at a much lower price point than the cheapest B01-equipped Breitling watch. And for that price you get 70 hours of power reserve, a vertical clutch and column wheel, and a silicon hairspring, which, as far as we’re concerned, is one of the best value propositions any way you cut it. Last but not least, since each dial color can be had with three different strap or bracelet options, the 2021 Black Bay Chrono is available in six references. The classic riveted stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 60s will, of course, most likely get most of the business with its distinct stepped construction with brushed flat surfaces and polished sides. But the leather and fabric straps are nothing to

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sneeze at, and look surprisingly handsome with the panda color configuration. The fabric strap in particular benefits from being one of the hallmarks of the brand, which in 2010 was launched with the Heritage Chrono. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure Company of the StEtienne region, this marked the first time a major watchmaker offered a fabric strap as standard for one of its products, and began a 10-year collaboration that has lasted to this day. The black leather strap, on the other hand, is “entirely in keeping with the spirit of ‘1970s racing’,” so much so that some have called it “The Paul Newman strap.” It features ecru topstitching, a folding clasp and a bund in aged black leather that looks perfect with either version of the new Black Bay Chrono.

Audemars Piguet may have finally cracked the code with a ceramic enhancement Words by

KIT O. PAYUMO

Code BACK IN 2019 AUDEMARS PIGUET CEO, FRANÇOISHENRY BENNAHMIAS, WAS PRACTICALLY GUSHING OVER THE BRAND’S MOST SIGNIFICANT LAUNCH IN… WELL, IN A QUITE SOME TIME. “This is our biggest launch since 1972,” said Bennahmias. “It was a challenge that we pushed ourselves towards to say we need to show that we are not just good only for the Royal Oak or the Millenary.” He was talking, of course, of the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59, the brand’s newest collection with the most unwieldy of names

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that literally took SIHH 2019 by storm. Indeed, the launch of the entire collection of 13 new references and six calibers (three of which were brand new: a self-winding calibre, an automatic flying tourbillon, and (finally) the long-awaited in-house integrated chronograph) was nothing short of controversial, especially since it represented the Manufacture’s most important and comprehensive launch in the last 22 years. But controversial it was. Starting with the name, Code 11.59 is an acronym that reflects

Breaker

April-June 2021

the brand’s five main sentiments: Challenge — Challenging the limits of craftsmanship; Own — Owning legacy; Dare — Daring to follow firm convictions; Evolve — Never Standing still; and 11.59 — The last minute before a new day. That minute before midnight and the promise of a new day was the point the brand consistently tried to make to the many journalists and enthusiasts who, for the longest time, would attend the annual SIHH with two perennial questions about Audemars Piguet: will the Vallée

de Joux-based brand ever expand its scope beyond their tried-and-true Royal Oak? And, will they ever come up with a fully in-house manufactured, integrated chronograph movement? Well, Audemars Piguet answered these questions and then some with something that nobody saw coming: an entirely new collection! But you just can’t please everyone, and reception of the new collection was decidedly mixed. Especially since the design of the new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 could, at best, be

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called…restrained, a quality doubly compounded when considering the collection’s really long gestation period. But, typical of Audemars Piguet products, God is in the details, and the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 was no exception. Magnificent in its subtlety, the Code 11.59 is a collection of nuanced and deliberately contrasting details that just ages better with time. Take its “typical” round case, for example. At closer examination there’s really nothing typical about it. First of all, it was designed to be applicable

Feature

Audemars Piguet

for both men and women. To which Bennahmias says, “I am not going to sell this as a men’s watch or a woman’s watch, it is A WATCH! And we worked so well on the ergonomics of the case that even on a very thin wrist the watch sits perfectly.” Coming in at a very versatile 41mm (a size that fits most wrists, by the way) the case was designed to work with a practically non-existent bezel and a larger dial opening to make the watch look larger but feel smaller than it actually is. It sports a round 3-piece case that, believe it or not, incorporates the brand’s signature octagon shape, but at first glance you’d never know it. Look at it from the top and it looks like a “regular” round case, but look at it from the side or quarter view and its 3-piece structure comes to the fore with a case middle in the brand-signature octagon shape that is a completely separate piece. Enhancing that airy quality is another detail: openworked lugs, which are only attached to the upper portion of the case. Then there’s the singlepiece sapphire crystal, which is double curved. “We curved the glass vertically from 6 to 12, and spherically under,” says Bennahmias, meaning the internal surface is dome shaped while externally, it is the opposite. This concave/convex design extends from the edge of the near non-existent bezel and ends in polished chamfered edges, highlighting the edges of the bezel and case. Playing with depth, perspective and light, the tense, arched profile of the crystal creates a slight magnifying effect that results in outstanding readability on the dial. In the years since, the brand has endeavored to expand the collection with an annual barrage of updates to harp on these previously overlooked qualities. These include two-tone cases in combinations of white and pink gold to better enhance the different shapes of the primary and middle cases; as well as smoked dials in wildly eye-catching colors, and aventurine enamel to bring out the unusual shape of the double curved sapphire crystal. This year, Audemars Piguet has managed to endow the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph with its most handsome addition to date. For the first time, black ceramic has been employed to enhance the octagonal case middle and further the “multi-faceted geometry” of the chronograph. Crafted in collaboration with Bangerter, a Swiss family-owned company specializing in the manufacture of precision

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components made of advanced ceramics, the black ceramic middle case allows the rest of the watch to shine and brings focus to the myriad details of the Code 11.59 design. These include the ultra-thin bezel, the unusual curvature of the case, the previously mentioned hollowed out lugs, the complex design of the pushers, and the superb details of the finishing, which alternate between brushed and polished surfaces. Available in either white or pink gold, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph with a black ceramic case middle is visually the lightest and airiest Code 11.59, yet. This aspect is further bolstered by the dial, which has been enhanced for 2021 with a smoked dark grey color, and further enhanced specifically for this edition with a vertical satin-finish to

match the refined satin-finish of the case. Black chronograph counters and a black inner bezel give depth to the dial while mimicking the color of the octagonal ceramic case middle. “The latest Selfwinding Chronograph evolves the Code 11.59… with a new material combination and finishing on the dial that further the timepiece’s myriads of details,” said the Head of Product and Design Management, Sofia Candeias. “The teams had to push their limits once more to respond to the new technical challenges of combining a black ceramic middle case with a bezel, lugs and caseback crafted in gold. The vertical satin-finishing on the dial also had to be perfectly aligned with the case’s refined traits tirés.” And not to forget about that long-awaited in-house integrated chronograph movement, these two new selfwinding chronograph models

Two choices that best contrast against the octagonal middle case: the first in 18K white gold...

...And a second in 18K pink gold. You make the choice.

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are still powered by Calibre 4401, which made a splash in 2019 as the Manufacture’s latest in-house integrated chronograph with flyback function, and enhanced with column wheel and vertical clutch. Five years in the making, Calibre 4401 operates at a very modern 4Hz, boasts 70 hours of power reserve, and has a dedicated 22K pink gold openworked oscillating weight, which is visible through the caseback. Last but not least is a black textile strap, the calfskin leather lining of which has been rubber coated to add texture to the overall contemporary look of the entire ensemble. Indeed, the straight integration of the strap in the continuity of the openworked lugs only enhances the refined hand finishing of the twotone case’s contrasting architecture.

Feature

Roger Dubuis

Single Starry Night Roger Dubuis’ signature complication takes to the skies in a starry barrage of new colors Wo rds by

KIT O. PAYUMO

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April-June 2021

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Feature

Roger Dubuis

INDULGING THE BRAND’S SENTIMENT, “LESS IS NEVER MORE,” ROGER DUBUIS HAS GIVEN THEIR SIGNATURE TIMEPIECE A THOROUGH REVAMP, AND BEFORE YOU ROLL YOUR EYES AND ASSUME THIS IS JUST ANOTHER MATERIAL UPDATE IT ISN’T, BECAUSE FOR ROGER DUBUIS MORE REALLY IS MORE, AND THE NEW WATCH IS A THOROUGH, HONEST-TO-GOODNESS OVERHAUL OF THEIR SIGNATURE TIMEPIECE.

Known for their particular brand of “Hyper Horology,” Roger Dubuis is a watchmaker steeped in the traditions and trappings of horology but on a mission to be break free of it. As such the brand has demonstrated a penchant for extravagance, taking the conventional tenets of watchmaking and turning it on its head. The result (for better or for worse) has been unmistakable out-of-the-box designs that not only challenge convention but push the boundaries of traditional horology while remaining squarely within it. No easy feat that, but something Roger Dubuis has parlayed to become the slightly mad, luxury, maverick watchmaker that they are. Best of all, the brand has consistently earned the Poinçon de Genève mark of quality resulting in a good number of the company’s offerings that continue to bear the highly coveted quality seal. Which is why when news hit that Roger Dubuis was unveiling a new version of their signature watch we had a feeling it wouldn’t just be another “update,” and we were right. Synonymous with the flying tourbillon, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur line has become the bread and butter collection of the Maison, so much so that any revamp of their signature Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon is a really big deal. Any movement development is a huge undertaking for any watchmaker, but being the integrated Manufacture that Roger Dubuis is they were obviously up to the task. Especially when considering the openworked and transparent nature of their signature piece. Indeed, any openworked design inherently presents a myriad of obstacles, not the least of which is the fact that a multitude of components normally hidden from view are suddenly shown in the glaring light of day offering “no place for mediocrity to hide,” as one reviewer put it. In openworked designs, perfection is a must with peerless finishing the order of the day. And while the unenviable task of most openworked designs begin with already developed movements, with the watchmaker “skeletonizing” the movement by expertly cutting and gouging out the excess material of the calibre to reveal what is within, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon

offered no such obstacles because its inner workings were already designed to be openworked to begin with. Which is why it was so disconcerting that at first glance the new Roger Dubuis signature watch looked like…the old one! But that’s because ALL the Roger Dubuis Excalibur elements were present and accounted for, a closer examination of which, revealed them to have been reworked practically from the ground up. “Restyled” for a new world, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon is a stunning showcase of technical prowess. Indeed, everything that is familiar is all-new including the bezel with its 24 v-shaped notches, an element the Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon shares with the previous model. The crown, on the other hand, now features a newly designed notched-grip and is flanked by purposely-shaped crown protectors

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that heighten the piece’s robustness without destroying its razor sharp aesthetic lines. The lug and strap ensemble are also new, with close attention being paid to the ergonomics between the lugs, strap and the user’s wrist. Specifically designed to fasten onto the threepronged lugs, the calf leather straps have a three dimensional design that looks to have been biologically grown from the watch. These come in 5 new sizes from size 0 to 4 to ensure that the buckle is always centered on the wrist, while a Quick Release System is on hand to swap out the straps without the need for tools. Turning to the “dial” reveals even more elements reworked by the Roger Dubuis watchmakers at their obsessive/compulsive best. This includes the minute track with luminescent hour markers shaped to mimic the notches of the bezel, and positioned on a specially designed

April-June 2021

two-facet flange, as well as the newly formed twin-spoke hour and minute hands. Designed as companion pieces to the multi-faceted and razor sharp lines of the mainplate’s beam sections, each hand is truncated and intricately formed to sport varying surfaces: the angled surfaces are satinbrushed, while the flat surfaces are shot-blasted. Speaking of which, the new RD512SQ calibre is another stunning tour de force that has been rebuilt from the bottom up in an architectural feat best seen in the “metal” to be fully appreciated. Made using modern machinery set to the most exacting tolerances of the Roger Dubuis watchmakers, the openworked RD512SQ calibre has been optimally designed for transparency, rigidity, and reliability and showcases razorsharp lines architecturally executed to create the impression of thinness in look and feel, while heightening the sense of transparency and depth.

Indeed, the new calibre incorporates many elements into its movement design including the brand’s signature star symbol. Its twin-spoke arms are a reflection of the hour and minute hands and look like the radical wheel spokes of the most radical supercar as they emanate from the center of the jewel and “float” above the openworked barrel while they reach for the inner case right below the flange. The flying tourbillon, on the other hand, is found at its place on the southwest corner of the dial and now comes with a titanium lower tourbillon cage, and an upper tourbillon cage made of mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome. The latter is one of the most difficult forms of polishing to execute, while the combination is twice as light as stainless steel. This has resulted an overall reduction of weight, which subsequently translates to an increase of power

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reserve. An impressive 72 hours to be exact, which according to the Maison allows for the option of, “Leaving the watch unworn over weekends without the worry of resetting come Monday.” Once again stamped with the Poinçon de Genève seal of quality, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Single Flying Tourbillon is available with four versions to choose from, the first three of which are limited to only 88 pieces each. The first is a version in Dark Grey DLC Titanium, another in Cobalt Chrome CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCM, and the third forged in the new EON Gold, the pink gold color of which was achieved thanks to the addition of palladium and tin and benefits from non-tarnish technology to retain its hue. Of the three, the dark grey DLC and Eon gold versions are the no-brainers, with the former the literal dark horse of the lot, and the latter most likely becoming the luxurious default favorite of the bunch. The Cobalt Chrome version, however, is a true left-field choice and sports blue colored details and finishes on various components of the watch including the minute track on the flange, the twin-spoke arms of the brand’s signature star symbol, and the 3D calf leather strap. But if these three “standard” models are still too understated for you, there’s one more version that might be more suitable to your tastes. Called the Excalibur Glow Me Up, this diamond encrusted Single Flying Tourbillon is a twist on the traditional gem-set watch and showcases the Maison’s obsession with art, light and luminescence with a secret lightshow hidden up its sleeve. An extremely limited edition of only 8 pieces, the Excalibur Glow Me Up is elegantly adorned with 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, so far, so normal, right? But at night, the Glow Me Up suddenly becomes another version entirely and does justice to its name by lighting up in a multitude of colors thanks to different shades of Super-LumiNova…and this includes the diamonds. This is made possible by an intricate two-part process, the first involving filling the grooves that hold the stones in place with luminescent material, an ingenious way of making the diamonds appear luminescent without actually altering them. The second involves a patent that enables different shades of Super-LumiNova to be applied to specific sections of the calibre, such as the different angles of the movement, as well as to the iconic star-shaped bridge. The result is a stunning rainbow of different colors on a timepiece that looks to be another version of the Single Flying Tourbillon, entirely! Well, at least at night.

Feature Panerai

April-June 2021

PICCOLO

L U M I N O R

F O R

Wo rd s b y

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L A D Y

K ATHERINE S. CUNANAN

Feature Panerai

GIOVANNI PANERAI STARTED CREATING WATCHES IN 1860 WHEN HE OPENED HIS WORKSHOP IN FLORENCE. The Panerai brand has built itself quite a reputation for technical excellence. That tech excellence was a necessity because they built watches for the Italian military in the 1930s. Since then they have branched out and offered watches to the non-military public (read: you and me). Panerai has basically two watches in its storehouse, and picking one is really a matter of personal preference. Some say the Luminor is just an amped up version of the Radiomir. Others say the watches can exist, and be appreciated, separate of each other. Both models have clean, almost austere dials. They seem to have nailed the minimalist look way before current ‘de-cluttering’ trends began. Even the case shapes of the watches are nearly identical, with the Luminor case being slightly thicker. But what sets the Luminor apart, and is noticeable with a glance, is the patented crown-protector. That little bit of extra metal across the crown reminds you of the history behind this brand. The legacy, if you will, of the watches that were built for Italian frogmen to use on their ultra-secret, super-dangerous missions. This watch on my wrist is good enough for the Italian military – I, too, am worthy. The perfect tool watch has taken a turn to the gentle side. After all, ladies also appreciate clean looking gadgets and accessories. Panerai offers us the Panerai Luminor Due in a delicate

“Delicate but strong, the Piccolo Due Madreperla” but strong model: the Piccolo Due Madreperla (PAM01280). This model is powered by an automatic mechanical movement with 23 jewels, and has the Incabloc anti-shock device. The entire movement is created by Panerai. As the name suggests, this Luminor Piccolo Due Madreperla is slightly smaller than previous releases. The case and bezel are in polished Goldtech, and of course that distinctive crown protector is in polished Goldtech too. Goldtech is a mixture of gold, copper, and platinum, and serves a dual purpose. The addition of copper gives the metal a nice red hue, while the platinum prevents oxidization, which means your watch will look better for a longer period of time. The Luminor Piccolo Due Madreperla dial

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comes in at 38mm, the smallest dial size ever by Panerai. But that real estate on the dial is put to good use, with a clean look typical of Panerai. The 6 and 12 hours are marked with applied golden Arabic numerals. The date window is at the 3 o’clock and the seconds subdial is at the 9. The remaining hours are marked with applied indexes. In case you have a special night event (read: mission), the hour markers and indexes are treated with white SuperLumiNova with green luminescence. And for the adventurous tasks, fear not, this watch is water resistant to 3 bar or 30 meters. That being said, what really brings the femininity to this Luminor Piccolo Due is the dial itself, made of mother-of-pearl. Mother-

April-June 2021

SPECIFICATIONS PANERAI PICCOLO DUE MADREPERLA Movement Automatic mechanical, P.900 calibre, 12½ lignes, 4.2 mm thick, 171 components, 23 jewels, 28,800 vibrations / hour, IncablocTM anti-shock device, single barrel. Made entirely by Panerai. Functions

of-pearl is the defined as, “a smooth shining iridescent substance forming the inner layer of the shell of some mollusks, especially oysters and abalones, used in ornamentation.” But more than that, mother-of-pearl adds elegance, luster, and individuality to a timepiece. No two shells grow exactly the same, so no two dials will be exactly the same either. It will be worth your time (no pun intended) to look at several watch models before you spot the one that suits your preference. The dials will all have that iridescence that will seem to shift color from different angles, but you may find that the hue on one dial excites you more than another one. Choosing the perfect shell is the first step when working with mother-of-pearl. Mother-ofpearl is typically milky white, but can also have tinges of pale pink, pale blue, even gray or brown. How many shells would you need to inspect before picking the one that will not just suit your planned design, but enhance it, give it a little extra something? Daunting as it may seem to pick just the right one, that might be simplest step in this process. Once the shell is chosen, the real artisanship comes into play. The mother-of-pearl is polished to bring the natural luster to light. The creative masters then need to work gently with the shell in order to cut it into the thin discs they need for a dial, but without shattering the whole thing. It’s an artform, one that takes years to master. And throughout the watchmaking process, these dials are inspected for small cracks or fissures that may result from being worked on. The tiniest imperfection on a dial could spell the difference between being proudly worn on a wrist or being chucked in the bin. Helping to compete the delicate look on this Piccolo are the shiny red alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching and the pin buckle, also in Goldtech. A watch this special comes with its own pear wood box for your watch’s safekeeping. But knowing how beautiful this watch is, it will likely spend more time on your wrist than in that box.

Hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Power Reserve Three days. Case Polished GoldtechTM, diameter 38 mm, thickness 11.2 mm. Polished GoldtechTM bezel. Safety Lock crown protection device, lever and crown in polished GoldtechTM. Twelve-sided screwed caseback, in polished GoldtechTM, with sapphire crystal window. Dial White mother-of-pearl, with applied golden Arabic numerals and indexes filled with white SuperLumiNovaTM with green luminescence. Seconds at 9 o’clock. Date at 3 o’clock. Strap Alligator shiny red with tone-on-tone stitching, with polished GoldtechTM trapezoidal pin buckle. Equipped with the Quick Release system. Water-Resistance 3 bar (~30 meters).

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Feature Montblanc

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April-June 2021

White Mountain Gold Montblanc goes green with their latest limited edition Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO

WELL, THE LIME COLORED HUE OF THE SPECIAL GOLD ALLOY CALLED LIME GOLD, TO BE MORE SPECIFIC. Montblanc’s own proprietary alloy, Lime Gold is an innovative 18K gold alloy composed of gold, silver and iron, which in conjunction with complementing green elements, and a matching vintage green nubuck calf strap provides the unique and distinctive color of the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18. Indeed, Montblanc has been exploring Minerva’s long and storied heritage for the last thirteen years with collections that do justice to the former Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva SA’s legacy. It was in 2006 that the Swiss luxury goods group Richemont SA acquired Minerva and secured all of its 148-year old manufacture know-how. Shortly after, Richemont assigned its newly acquired “asset” to service one of its most prestigious luxury brands (which up until then was known primarily for its luxury writing instruments) with the purpose of revitalizing its horology department. This is why since 2007, the Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva SA has been known as the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret. Just last year Montblanc revamped their 1858 product line with timepieces that not only better connects with Montblanc’s “sporting” heritage (their iconic logo is that of a white mountain, after all) but also to reconnect with Minerva’s history with professional military chronographs in the 1920s and 30s. The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph is one of those timepieces. This year, Montblanc is continuing its homage to Minerva’s 148-year history with an 18-piece limited edition of the Split Second Chronograph called the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18. A third reinterpretation of the

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Feature Montblanc

historical 44mm Minerva military monopusher chronograph, this 18-piece limited edition comes on the heels of 2020’s icy-colored model, and after the seriously vintage-inspired bronze version that made its debut in 2019. Made of the aforementioned innovative 18K gold alloy, the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 proudly flouts the yellowish green of its all-gold visage with a distinctive gold colored dial with sunray finishes that matches the 44mm 18K Lime Gold case. These are enhanced by contrasting green

colored elements of different tones such as the luminescent cathedral-shaped hour and minute hands, the minuterie, the central split-second hand, the tachymeter and telemeter scales, as well as the historical Montblanc emblem at 12 o’clock. But standing out among all the green colored elements are the Arabic numerals themselves, which are made completely from SuperLumiNova. That’s right, made in a special patented process that molds the luminescent material into individual monobloc shapes, the resulting Super-LumiNova-made numerals are

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“Lime Gold is an innovative 18K gold alloy composed of gold, silver and iron, which in conjunction with complementing green elements... provides the unique and distinctive color of the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18.”

free of any outlines and glow with a luminescence that have to be seen to be believed. Indeed, they look like plastic molds that children play with. All these elements strike a definite, albeit “different” vintage touch that separates it from the also-vintage bronze 1858 Split Second Chronograph of 2019. This is made all the more obvious when all the green of the telemetry scale set on the flange (a common feature on many Minerva chronographs), the “round” colimaçon, or “snail” shape of the tachymeter (base 1000) at the center of the dial, as well as 30-minute and small seconds counters at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively, all contrasts with the Lime Gold of the case and dial. Like the original timepieces, the caseback of this limited edition reveals the manually wound calibre MB M16.31 mono-pusher chronograph, which is an evolution of the MB M16.29, itself inspired by the original Minerva calibre 17.29 pocket watch movement developed in the 1930s. This movement features two column wheels, horizontal coupling, a power reserve of 50 hours, and is also equipped with a complex rattrapante, or split second complication developed by Montblanc that allows the measurement of intermediate times without interrupting the ongoing measurement of a longer elapsing time. The calibre MB M16.31 is the direct heir of the 17.29, and, like its predecessor, is composed of the same iconic V-shape bridge (the design of which was protected in 1912) and a large balance wheel with 18 screws beating at the

traditional frequency of 2.5 Hz / 18,000 A/H. It also has the distinction of being made entirely in-house, and measures 16” (lignes) wide, or about 38.40mm, and is 8.13mm thick. Which is all good because all that extra real estate allowed for the highest level of hand finishing including Côtes de Genève, inner angles, circular graining and beveling, all of which were performed at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret. The Split Second mechanism in the center even brings more light to the entire movement. For this limited edition, the calibre MB M16.31 differentiates itself with plates and bridges made of Maillechort (German-silver) plated in 18K gold to match with 18K Lime Gold case and dial. While the sapphire crystal has an

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anti-magnetized treatment that enables greater precision from the chronograph’s two second hands, also for this limited edition. Bringing it all together is the aforementioned green nubuck alligator leather strap finished with beige stitching, and fitted with a matching 18K Lime Gold buckle to bring the vintage vibe of the 18-piece Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 all the way home. True, its all-gold and green color scheme may not be for everyone, but we believe its suits the discerning individual who wants to stand out, especially with that powerhouse split-second mono-pusher chronograph movement, which in itself is already a stand out that only a handful of other Manufactures are capable of producing.

Feature TAG Heuer

BELOW THE SURFACE TAG Heuer gives their go-anywhere watch a new lease on life Wo rd s b y

KIT O. PAYUMO

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April-June 2021

ELEGANT UNIFORMITY AND A CONSISTENT DESIGN LANGUAGE WERE THE ORDERS OF THE DAY AT TAG HEUER. That is how the brand revitalized their signature diver’s watch, the Aquaracer, a direct descendant of the Heuer Ref. 844, a divers’ watch that made its bows back in 1978. This classic divers’ watch set the standard for reliable diver’s watches and was adopted by professional and recreational divers all over the world. Introduced in 2004, the Aquaracer quickly became many enthusiasts’ first introduction to the world of the big brand luxury sports watch. And being akin to the Heuer Ref. 844, its no wonder TAG Heuer spent so much time and effort in its revitalization. Which is why the new Aquaracer Professional 300 is no mere “update,” but a completely reworked collection of new models. And they did this by updating and upgrading the collection’s six signature features beginning with the Aquaracer’s most visually arresting and immediately recognizable design feature. The Aquaracer’s 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel was tweaked and updated by the watchmakers at TAG Heuer. Keeping its basic form intact, modifications were performed on the exterior and interior of the bezel to improve its functionality. Primary to this is a scratch-resistant ceramic insert, which was integrated across the collection. Each individual facet was also fluted to facilitate easier grip and subsequently easier handling no matter which facet the wearer was holding. While under the skin, the watchmakers re-engineered the bezel’s internal tooth profile, which translated to a smoother, quieter and easier to set rotating mechanism.

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Feature TAG Heuer

The crown protectors were reshaped in a style reminiscent of the Ref. 844, and are now softer and more rounded. While sapphire glass was similarly upgraded with the integration of a magnifier over the date at 6 o’clock but on the underside of the crystal. This simple but innovative application was literally a no-brainer both aesthetically, and for practicality because not only did it create a smoother and seamless sapphire crystal, it led to the easier reading of the date from wider angles. To further improve the legibility of the watch, the new Aquaracer features a wider, more sword-shaped hour hand on the dial (taken from the last of the 2000 Series from 2004), as well as a narrower minutes hand to create a clearer distinction between the two in low-light conditions. Then there are eight octagonal hour markers on the dial, and the 12-sided crown, all

of which were influenced by the bezel’s 12-sided silhouette, yet another indication of design consistency. And that’s not all. For additional clarity, the watchmakers decided to use not one, but two colors of SuperLumiNova: the hour hand and hour markers are collectively swathed in green lume; while the minute hand, the tip of the seconds hand, and the minute indications on the bezel are all drenched in blue Super-LumiNova. This was done to differentiate the most important indications during a dive: the running seconds indicator, and the elapsed minutes. The result is a well thoughtout Aquaracer Professional 300 deliberately devoid of any superfluous design details, where every single element serves an aesthetic and functional purpose. “When you talk about watch design, you talk about having a watch that people can identify

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from across the room,” says TAG Heuer Creative Director, Guy Bove. “That is alluring in a slightly different way — I think this is the effect that we have created with these strong geometric shapes.” At the same time the watch had to be redesigned for better wearability. The watchmakers recognized that, as well as a reliable instrument, the Aquaracer Professional 300 had to be adaptable to multiple environments. Meaning, the watch had to be just as comfortable while doing the groceries in Unimart as it is while exploring the coral reefs at Tubbataha. This meant innovations to create a thinner and lighter Aquaracer that didn’t compromise its sporting abilities. Thus, the case and bezel are slimmer to mitigate its bulk, while the lugs are shorter for better wearability on every wrist size. Remarkably, these changes have resulted in improved durability while retaining the original’s

April-June 2021

Seven references, two sizes and a new bracelet fine adjustment system

300-meter water resistance. Further modifications include a slimmer bracelet with a tool-less microadjust system in the clasp that can be extended up to 1.5cm without removing the watch, and a case edge that has been chamfered and polished to better the watch’s visual impact and refinement, an aesthetic modification, to be sure, but a change that opened the door to better longevity. “It was important that this watch could be worn by different wrist sizes and that it was also incredibly comfortable,” continued Bove. “That’s why we kept the lugs on the short side and worked on the integration of the bracelet so it was very supple. I think too many dive watches are too thick, and so for us it was important to keep the watch as slim and ergonomic as possible.” Inside the new Aquaracer ticks TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5, a self-winding movement based on the ETA 2824-2. While a little long in the tooth, the

Caliber 5 is still a known and solid quantity that beats at 4Hz (28,800vph) and boasts a power reserve of 42 hours. This is covered by a solid caseback that once again features the famous scaphander diving suit that first appeared on the Aquaracer case back in 2004. This time, however, that familiar and authoritative image has been updated to reflect the new Aquaracer’s 2021 design codes with facets becoming the new design’s fil rouge. This means the diving helmet has been rendered with more angular lines, to which was added a 12-faceted faceplate. Behind it sits a repeating hexagonal motif, all on a caseback designed to always be square to the case and the scaphander always sitting upright. At launch, the Aquaracer Professional 300 is available in seven references with two sizes in the core collection. Four of these have a case diameter of 43mm, while three will measure

36mm. Six references are in stainless steel, with black, blue or silver dials and ceramic bezel inserts in corresponding colors that feature a white triangle at 12 o’clock filled with blue SuperLumiNova. While a seventh option sets itself apart as a 43mm piece forged in high-tech matte Grade 2 titanium with a green dial and green ceramic bezel with a yellow triangle at 12 o’clock with every indication on its minutes scale filled with blue Super-LumiNova. All seven references feature the classic Aquaracer’s signature engraved horizontal lines but differ in application for the two sizes. The engraved horizontal lines of the 43mm models are set further apart, while the dials of the smaller 36mm models are engraved with a wave pattern introduced in 2019. The blue 36mm models also get eight diamond hour markers, as well as polished central bracelet links. Indeed, with the exception of the crown guards, all the other lines on the new Aquaracer Professional 300 are straight, including the straight angular bevels of the stout and powerful lugs, the 12-sided bezel, the 12-sided crown, the eightsided hour markers, the engraved horizontal lines on the dial of the 43mm models, the sharper sword-shaped hands, the 12-sided caseback, and the angled rendering of the scaphander helmet with a 12-sided faceplate sitting on a decoration of hexagons, the sum of which is the tonal opposite of other dive watches with round dials, round indexes, a round bezel and a round case. But wait there’s more. An eighth version has also been made available to whet the appetites of potential collectors. The Aquaracer Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844 is a limited edition of only (you guessed it) 844 pieces, which stands out by picking up on the story of the fabled Ref. 844 divers’ watch introduced in 1978. This limited edition makes a splash by looking dramatically like the divers’ watch it pays tribute to, all while being redesigned and re-equipped for our modern times. This re-fit includes a high-tech Grade 5 titanium case, a 12-sided fluted bezel with black ceramic insert, a flat black dial carried over from the Ref. 844’s deep red 24-hour scale, and a vintage-colored “old radium” lume similar to that of the original watch. A specially designed black perforated rubber strap based on the original design also makes the cut but now sports octagonal-shaped perforations in line with the new Aquaracer’s revamped design codes. All in all, a fitting collection to a continuing legacy that TAG Heuer began more than 40 years ago.

Feature Oris

PERFORMANCE UNDER PRESSURE The AquisPro Date is the latest watch to be equipped with Oris’s in-house Calibre 400 movement Wo rds by

BERT E. CASAL

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Feature Oris

“THE CALIBRE 400, CONCEIVED ENTIRELY IN-HOUSE BY ORIS, SETS THE NEW STANDARD IN MECHANICAL WATCHMAKING.”

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April-June 2021

THE CALIBRE 400 MOVEMENT CAN NOW BE FOUND IN THE AQUISPRO DATE. It is a highly technical tool watch chosen by divers who work on complex engineering projects in saturation dives. Saturation dives differ greatly from recreational dives. The former is a diving technique that allows divers to work at great depths for extended periods to reduce time spent decompressing. When a diver dives to a certain depth, nitrogen in the blood builds up. As he ascends, the pressure on the body lessens, causing the nitrogen in the blood to dissolve and form bubbles. If too many bubbles form, the diver experiences decompression sickness, more commonly called “the bends.” There are events when divers need to work for long periods underwater (like exploration, production for the oil and gas industry, maintenance of oil platforms, and such). Instead of diving down and coming back up everyday, needing to decompress every single time, divers find it “more convenient” to stay underwater until the task is done. Normally, they take a shift that lasts several weeks, living in a pressurised chamber, before rising to the surface. These divers are called saturation divers. Saturation dives can go as deep as 1,000 feet. At these depths, divers rely on artificial light, as the sun’s rays do not reach this far below sea level. Having said that, one of the most important tools of a saturation diver is a watch. He or she needs this to tell the time of day and to dictate precisely how long the dive has lasted. The perfect tool for this job is the Oris AquisPro Date, a diver’s watch that can reach depths of up to 1,000 meters. This year, the AquisPro Date is equipped with Oris’s Calibre 400, a movement that boasts elevated levels of anti-magnetism and superior accuracy compared to a chronometer. Magnetism can greatly affect the accuracy of a watch. Not only can it affect its accuracy, but it can also stop the watch completely. This cannot be allowed to happen during saturation dives, as timing is essential. With the Calibre 400, Oris engineered it using more than 30 non-ferrous and anti-magnetic components, including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor. In testing by the renowned Laboratoire Dubois, Calibre 400 deviated by less than 10 seconds a day after exposure to 2,250 gauss. The latest version of the ISO 764 standard for anti-magnetic watches requires a watch be accurate to within 30 seconds a day after exposure to 200 gauss. Calibre 400 recorded one third of the deviation allowed after exposure to more than 11 times the force permitted, making it a highly anti-magnetic movement. Oris created a more stable rotor system in Calibre 400. The engineers identified that one of the most frequent issues with automatic mechanical movements concerns the ball bearing system that allows the free-spinning oscillating weight to rotate. This is a critical element of an automatic watch, because as the rotor spins, it generates power that’s stored in the mainspring. Oris removed the ball bearing and replaced it with a low-friction slide bearing system where a metal stud runs through a lubricated sleeve. This is much less complex, highly efficient, and involves far less wear and tear, making it less prone to breakdowns. The AquisPro Date has a 5-day power reserve, allowing you to leave the watch in your drawer over the weekend and wear it

SPECIFICATIONS AquisPro Date Calibre 400 Case Material Multi-piece titanium case, black DLC plated, ceramic bezel insert with engraved minutes scale; Size 49.50 mm, 1.948 inches; Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside; Case back Titanium, black DLC plated, screwed, special markings; Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown, black DLC plated; Water resistance 100 bar (1,000 m); Interhorn width 26 mm Movement Number Oris Calibre 400; Dimensions 30.00 mm, 13 ¼’’’; Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window,

again on Monday without having to wind it. It is able to store this much power because of its twin barrels that both house extended mainsprings, each long enough to store power for two and a half days. The new AquisPro Date comes with a high-grade, lightweight titanium case with a diameter of 49.5 mm. It comes with a sapphire top glass that is domed on both sides with anti-reflective coating inside. The case back is a black DLC plated titanium with special markings. Oris’s patented Rotation Safety System is available on this watch. It enables the wearer to adjust and lock the uni-directional rotating bezel into place. This means that divers are assured that their remaining dive times are accurate. Titanium is also used for the rubber strap’s folding clasp. Here, two exclusive Oris innovations can be found. The first is Oris’s patented Sliding Sledge Clasp which can be adjusted to very fine tolerances without taking the watch off. The second is the Oris Safety Anchor, developed by Oris so that in the event the clasp is released unintentionally, two hooks grab the strap so the watch stays attached to the wearer’s wrist. Oris is so confident in the performance of the advanced technologies integrated into Calibre 400 that they are offering a 10-year warranty on all Oris watches powered by the new movement, once registered with MyOris, of course. And as such, Oris is recommending a 10-year service interval on Calibre 400 watches. This is Oris setting The New Standard.

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instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second; Winding Automatic; Power reserve 120 hours; Vibrations 4 Hz (28’800 A/h); Jewels 21 Dial Design Black dial with wave motif; Luminous material Indices and hands with Super-LumiNova®; Indices Applied Strap Material Black rubber, black DLC-plated titanium folding clasp black with Sliding Sledge Clasp extension and Safety Anchor

Timeframe

DZONG In the past a Dzong served as a stronghold against enemies. Now Dzongs play an important role as the administrative center and serve as focal points of Bhutan’s political, economic, religious, and social life. This is the inside of Thimpu Dzong on the northern edge of the city of Thimpu in Bhutan, on the western bank of the Wang Chu. Photo by Keith Sundiang

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